(Part 3) Best music recording equipment according to redditors
We found 14,093 Reddit comments discussing the best music recording equipment. We ranked the 3,053 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
![[OLD MODEL] Focusrite Scarlett 2i4 USB Audio Interface,Red](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41tDFC-H9yL.jpg)
Not necessarily: I have foam in my studio with the exact same colors I got off of Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ATP5KF6
nobody has explained their recommendations.
you don't get good volume on dialog because of crappy channel mixing from your TV.
that's not a dig on your specific TV... all TV's suck at this. in fact, most receivers suck at mixing down from 5.1/7.1 to stereo.
for any content generated in surround, something like 95% of the dialog volume is mixed to the center channel.
if you're listening on a pair of stereo speakers, you get to hear what the TV thinks is best, in terms of balancing the volumes between the channels.
folks here are recommending receivers that would give you 5.1 channel audio, and then also suggesting three speakers.
the three speakers are your Front L+R, and the all important center speaker.
receivers do a moderately good job of mixing all the surround channels to just the Front L+Rs, and if you have the center speaker, it will still get all of that delicious dialog.
your budget is a little tight, but doable.
https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/yamrxv379bl/yamaha-rx-v379-5.1-ch-x-70-watts-bluetooth-a/v-receiver/1.html $150
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009IUIV4A/ $60 for your front L+R pair
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HH2GINM/ $50 for your center channel
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check out your sound settings for anything called "normalization" or "equalization".
this will cap the maximum volume difference between the audio channels. so in effect it will reduce the loud parts, and bring up the volume on the quiet parts. this may be sufficient for you to like what you hear, or be sufficient for you to just get some nicer speakers and be quite satisfied.
if the "equalization" setting fixes the quiet/loud problem, but you just want more oomph, i would recommend
eris 4.5's https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GP56OYA/ $180
or
fluance ai40's https://www.amazon.com/Fluance-Bookshelf-Amplifier-Turntable-Bluetooth/dp/B07CLDGXX1/ $200
both are self-powered, and need nothing other than a cable to connect them to your Tv.
i have eris e3.5's and they are simply great.
i have fluance floor speakers, and they're also great, so i would expect good performance on the ai40's.
ai40's come with more features - a bluetooth input option, and a remote to control the volume, source.
Everyone else seems to have covered the basics about the answers to your questions so far. Might I offer some advice, then?
Most of your problems seem to come from you living in an upstairs apartment (at least on the second floor, if not on the top floor), with people below (and possibly above) you, with the sound transferring down through the ceiling. I know you said that you invested in sound dampening casters for your piano, but it doesn't sound as if they worked; I know from playing violin (and having my sister play the drums) that these dampeners only dull music. They don't silence it completely, so your neighbours will still be able to hear you practice. Would it be possible to work out a compromise with your landlord to transfer your lease to a ground-floor apartment, and then use a dedicated room in that apartment as a practice room (complete with you putting up soundproof tiling like this along the walls and ceiling? If you take those steps (ground floor apartment + soundproof tiles), your neighbours should barely hear your practice.
Apartment living is all about compromises. People who can't stand hearing footsteps above them have to learn to look for top-floor apartments. People in general have to learn not to be jerks (i.e., not hammering nails into walls at 3AM, etc), and further have to learn that others in the building do have different schedules (and so might be doing laundry at 10PM at night, for example). People who practice musical instruments have to learn to soundproof their practice spaces, which... in the case of heavy instruments, like pianos and harps, may include having a solid ground underneath them if sound-casters don't cut it. If this isn't possible in your current place and you do end up having to move, it's something you'll want to keep in mind while looking at new places...
::Edit:: Subject/verb agreement are hard, y'all
A shit ton of money? You can get a 12 pack of 12"x12" of foam wedges for $20 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010GPFRUQ/ref=s9_simh_awbw_d0_g267_i1?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-1&pf_rd_r=1E55TWXT5929000MHBA0&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2404317562&pf_rd_i=mobile
However foam wedges are for eliminating reverb. They are not for soundproofing.
Not amazing quality but Behringer can get you started for cheap. This is probably the cheapest way to get started without all crowding around one microphone.
Also consider Cheap RSS and media hosting from Libsyn
and See behringer's whole range of basic mixers. You might also want to check out cheap mic stands. I would also reccomend using a backup recording device connected to your mixer like a Tascam / Zoom / iPhone in case your recording software crashes during the session.
Here's everything for equipment, so hopefully this answers any questions:
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Wall:
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Desk:
I also made modications to the desk, including installing a grommet with 2 USBs and 2 outlets, as well as a wireless charger.
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Audio Setup:
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Peripherals:
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PC specs:
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Any other questions, feel free to leave them and I'll try to respond :)
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Edit: Thank you for the gold random kind redditor!
Isn't there a housing authority on base?
There's always this!
Comes in different colors too!
Kyle's Setup
Microphone (Shure SM7B) - https://www.amazon.com/Shure-SM7B-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002E4Z8M/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=shure+sm7b&qid=1549674292&sr=8-2
That runs into a clean gain booster, Cloudlifter (I didn't know he wasn't running this since he got his Shure in 2014. Once I learned that, I had him get one and he's been running that for about a month and a half now) https://www.amazon.com/Cloud-Microphones-CL-1-Cloudlifter-1-channel/dp/B004MQSV04/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=cloudlifter&qid=1549674274&sr=8-5
Which goes into his mixer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CTKI10A/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Now if someone wanted to run this setup, I would say don't get the Behringer, they have problems but most of the time they're fine. But you want to get a Focusrite Scarlett https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T50LY/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=cloudlifter&qid=1549674274&sr=8-12 or Mackie Onyx https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-Producer-Interface-Bundle-Polishing/dp/B07GJWQQM3/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=mackie+onyx&qid=1549674443&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1 (I recommend the Onyx but they're both fucking great, used both, currently running the Mackie in my new studio setup)
Taylor's Setup
Same exact setup as Kyle, even though I told them to get him this Blue Micrphone TUBE arm: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Compass-Premium-Tube-Style-Broadcast/dp/B078MLBGRM/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=blue+microphone+arm&qid=1549674585&sr=8-5
It's a way better arm. Kyle is using the standard Rode arm & either that's what Taylor's got now or he's using a super cheap ass one. But no way that cheap ass one would work with the Shure's weight, so he probably got a rode. But I recommended they both get the Blue tube arm.
Woody's Setup
Microphone (Electro-Voice RE20):
His preamp/mixer is all in his rack that's mounted with his PC which is down by his knee. I forget what he's using cause it's been many, many years since he built that thing.
The microphone arm he is using is the cadillac of microphone studio boom arms the K&M 23860: https://www.amazon.com/23860-Microphone-Desk-Arm-Black/dp/B00AXMM0L2?tag=paidinsi-20
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The Shure SM7B and Electro-Voice RE20 are the gold standard for radio and podcast production in studios. You can't go wrong. But if you get the SM7B then you need a pre-amp or something that's going to give you an additional 20-40db of clean gain.
If you don't have that Cloudlifter and just use it with that mixer, then you have to crank the fuck out of the gain which greatly increases and raises your noies floor. So you'll be audible and sound good, but you'll still get lots of white noise/background noise.
In my setup it's the Shure SM7B, Mackie Onyx, Cloudlifter, Blue Mic arm and quality XLR cables. When I plan to expand and add more microphones to do several people in studio productions. I'll create a rack unit VERY similar to what Lefty is currently running. With an electricity conditioner and the same preamp he has that I researched on my own and it's perfect for getting the clean gain added that you need so you don't need the cloud.
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-MDR7506-Professional-Diaphragm-Headphone/dp/B000AJIF4E
Theyre relatively cheap.
Pretty much all professional producers know of these headphones. They will play mainstream music just how the producers in the studios heard it. A lot of them will have even used them in the studio.
alternatively for even cheaper
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Refurbished-Sony-MDREX110APB-Earset/48542602
The sound quality is really great. The poor reviews are from people who've bought them and have had them die.
you wont find anything that produces a better sound quality than these for their respective price ranges.\
Bonus is that theyre not USB so you dont have to worry about some kind of shitty driver. Theyre plug in and enjoy.
P.S. actual speakers that are meant for music production arent called speakers, but "Monitor speakers" or just "monitors"
\
Heres a suggestion if you want actual monitors https://www.amazon.com/KRK-RP5G3-NA-Generation-Powered-Monitor/dp/B00FX7MMRO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483916151&sr=8-2&keywords=rokit+krk+5
Even just hanging a fluffy quilt or blanket on the wall will keep sound from echoing as much. If you want to get fancy you can get acoustic panels on Amazon nowadays, which is kind of amazing. You'd have to do a bit of research on placement.
But if you have a spare quilt the quilt thing is free and fast and worth a try.
Nah, hand size won't mess you up. A lot of people say "My hands are too small for bass", when in reallity hand size doesn't affect too much (there are a lot of bass exercises that will allow you to properly extend your hand on the fretboard)
The Hal Leonard method is a pretty good book, go with it.
​
Also, if you're not getting an amp I reccommend to get a Amplug or something
I like the Berhinger UMC204HD.
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC204HD-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00QHURLCW
At this pricepoint all the market entries are going to have the same chips inside and similar performance, but the Behringer has the broadest feature set, with 'inserts' and MIDI.
I have two Berhinger interfaces, the UMC404HD and the UFX1204. I'm happy with both.
If it is a simple power strip with a label, that's crappy.
​
However, if it has some kind of Power Conditioning built in to smooth out the power, then it might be worth something. Would have to tear it down to see how it functions and if it's worth it.
​
You should be the guinea pig and buy it, do a tear down and see what makes it tick to see if it is anything special :)
​
I mean, look at this, it might not be hard to reconfigure it to work in a power bar type of form factor.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B003BQ91Y6/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b9AIQrT_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=A1IM4EOPHS76S7&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-11&pf_rd_r=6SCFDE35ND5CS1AETXZ0&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=5f4660f5-92fb-57e0-933c-c6798bcfacba&pf_rd_i=8397352011
IMHO: A subwoofer isn't optional when it comes to dubstep. You'll be missing all the low-end (which let's be honest, is why we're all here) if you omit a decent sub from you set up. As far as amps (I call these receivers) go, you'd probably be best off visiting your local pawn shop or anywhere you can get pre-owned electronics and picking something up. I got mine for under $100CAD and it has power to spare. For ease of set-up I'd suggest finding something with dedicated subwoofer outputs on the back. As for speakers, these or these will do right by you. Personally I use this subwoofer, and it has the juice to have my entire house shaking. Wires are pretty much standard in my experience as long as you're talking about a simple home listening system. These wires would do fine for your needs. If you want a proper listening experience dont use bluetooth speakers, and dont skimp on a subwoofer.
Hope that helps, my dude!
Purchased the foam blocks off Amazon for like $30 because I liked the maroon color. But you can get just grey ones for cheaper. Though it looks like the ones I purchased and linked are currently out of stock.
They really did help the room become less echoy and the room mate next to me said it helps block some sound, too.
Not sure why my links came out all fucked up? Too lazy to try and fix it.
His.
Monitors: [Dell S2716DGR] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0149QBOF0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Triple Monitor Mount: [EZM Deluxe Triple Monitor Mount] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JG7G2E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s06?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Keyboard: [Corsair K70 Cherry MX Reds] (https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-K70-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B01ER4B8C8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526665446&sr=8-2&keywords=corsair%2Bk70%2Bcherry%2Bred&th=1)
Mouse: [Corsair Scimitar Pro RGB] (https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Gaming-SCIMITAR-Mechanical-Buttons/dp/B013KK9JOO/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526665487&sr=1-2&keywords=corsair+scimitar+pro+rgb)
Mouse Pad: [Razer Goliathus Overwatch Mouse Mat] (https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Goliathus-Overwatch-Mouse-Professional-Grade/dp/B01DXVKEJY)
Wireless Headset: [Steel Series 800 Wireless] (https://www.amazon.com/SteelSeries-Lag-Free-Wireless-Transmitter-Surround/dp/B016YGMH9U/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526665568&sr=1-3&keywords=steelseries+h800)
Speakers: [Audioengine A5+] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005OSR1C8/ref=twister_B00L3KRZS6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
Speaker Mounts: [Audioengine DS2 Desktop speaker stands] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005STCILC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Desk Surface: [Ikea EKBACKEN countertop 98in] (https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80274864/)
Desk Drawers: Haha who am I kidding everyone knows that those are!
Lamp: [IKEA Hektar lamp] (https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40349376/)
Cable Management
[Raceways] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015EDVVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s06?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
[Velcro zip ties] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
[Desk Grommet ](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MX5TH4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
[Cable clips] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075WWCN1K/ref=detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Pc build specs
Case: NZXT H440
Motherboard: ASUS ROG Maximus IX Hero Z270 LGA1151
CPU: i7 6700k
RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 32GB
Power supply: Corsair RM series modular 1000W 80plus Gold
Power cables: Corsair custom sleeved in blue
CPU cooler: NZXT Kraken X52
Boot Drive: SAMSUNG 750 EVO 2.5" 500GB
HDD: 2TB Western Digital
GPU: EVGA 12GB Titan black
Hers.
Monitor: [Asus ROG Switft 34in ultra wide] (https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-ROG-SWIFT-PG348Q-3440x1440/dp/B01C83BE6U/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526666082&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Asus+-+ROG+Swift+34%22+IPS+LED+Curved+QHD+GSync+Monitor+-+Armor+titanium+Plasma+copper)
Monitor Mount: [VIV duial mount] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CUW5HDU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Mouse: [Razer Naga Chroma] (https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Naga-Chroma-Programmable-Adjustible/dp/B01798WKTY/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526666200&sr=1-4&keywords=razer+mmo+mouse)
Keyboard: [Corsair K70 Cherry MX Reds] (https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-K70-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B01ER4B8C8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526665446&sr=8-2&keywords=corsair%2Bk70%2Bcherry%2Bred&th=1)
Mouse pad: [Razer Goliathus Overwatch Mouse Mat] (https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Goliathus-Overwatch-Mouse-Professional-Grade/dp/B01DXVKEJY)
Wireless Headset: [Steel Series 800 Wireless] (https://www.amazon.com/SteelSeries-Lag-Free-Wireless-Transmitter-Surround/dp/B016YGMH9U/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526665568&sr=1-3&keywords=steelseries+h800)
Speakers: [KRK Rokit 5 ](https://www.amazon.com/KRK-RP5G3-NA-Generation-Powered-Monitor/dp/B00FX7MMRO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526666262&sr=8-1&keywords=krk+rokit+5)
Desk Surface x2 : [IKEA Linnmon] (https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S39932699/)
Cable Management
Cable Rack: [IKEA Signum rack] (https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/30200253/)
PC Build specs
Case: Corsair crystal series 460X
Motherboard: ASUS ROG Maximus IX Hero Z270 LGA1151
CPU: i7 7700k
RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 32GB
Power supply: Corsair RM series modular 1000W 80plus Gold
CPU cooler: NZXT Kraken X52
HDD: WD 1TB
GPU: GTX 1080 ti SC
It's the neewer arm but I would definitely recommend going with a Rode arm instead. This one is pretty flimsy.
holy shit, that back panel looks like a cereal-box maze.
Its better. But velcro ftw. And kudos on the clever shelf -> cable ladder idea.
edit
Definitely dont mean to bum your high man, this is* an improvement. I'll make a few observations as a lay-person learning proper cable management techniques myself.
this is why zip ties are generally frowned upon. If its all you got, its better than nothing, but this is the way to go, by far. Zip ties may be "cheaper" but they aren't reusable.
It may never give you a hassle, but in production, thats a no-no, and its that way for a reason. Amperage draw specifically.
From the OSHA PDF (shakes head for quoting OHSA)
"when multiple power strips are
interconnected, the one directly connected
to the building outlet is often supplying
power to far more than the approved
number. This electrical current overload can
result in a fire or can cause a circuit breaker
to trip, deenergizing computers and other
equipment throughout the area."
that poor power delivery and circuit failure strains your devices and reduces life. I live in the real world too, where we have budgets and such. If you love your electronics, feed them well. Power conditioners not only evenly distribute power, but they clean up the spikes in the grid, making things easier on your gear.
Obviously there is some give and take in this, but the most beautiful SoHo Cable setups have boxes laid out logically, then the wiring wrapped to compliment. Exhibit A. Exhibit B. Note exhibit B bundles Data and Power together. Typically not a serious issue, but something to avoid if possible.
Sorry for the long edit, but my sarcastic humor floated to the top and I felt like an asshole. Kudos for your creativity. We learn things every time.
The Yeti is fine for dicord/skype chat and gaming, and the polar patterns can be helpful for untreated setups to find the one that picks up the least noise, but it isn't good enough quality for voice over. It doesn't have a very full bass response, and the treble frequencies are fairly harsh on it.
​
Fortunately, there is a setup you can but for about the same price (or a little cheaper!) that has a good enough quality for professional work! For the mic, I recommend the MXL V67G if you are on a tight budget, with a Behringer UM2 interface. You will also need an XLR cable, a pop filter, and a mic stand to complete the equipment side of the setup. You will also need to do some acoustic treatment for your recording space, which can be anything from recording in your closet to building a pillow/blanket fort. It doesn't need to cost you anything, so long as you can find a quiet space and pile up on the soft, cushiony material. The XLR setup will give you a full frequency pickup, a cleaner preamp, and the V67G has a nice warm tone to it that is pretty forgiving of voice type. I used a similar setup to land an agent (I've upgraded, but still use the V67G occasionally) so I have no doubts about it's capabilities.
​
Good luck, and feel free to let me know if you need any help!
Two easy options: This and these.
Have them both and the headphones get used more.
Thank you for your response! Are you talking about these? https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Acoustic-Panels-Studio-Wedges/dp/B010GPFRUQ/ref=sr_1_1?crid=HEHQYH23NWBM&keywords=sound+muffler+wall+pads&qid=1558569189&s=gateway&sprefix=sound+muffler%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-1
I'm going to assume you're talking about electric guitar, and you want to record on to your computer.
We'll go with the simplest/cheapest way (Note, you won't want to run an electric guitar directly into a computer, it'll generally sound like crap)
First off, you'll need a microphone. The Shure SM57 is an industry standard for recording many things, from guitar cabs to snare drums, and more. It's only $100, too! There's a knockoff of that mic, for half the price, that's supposed to be just as good (some people even prefer the sound), the GLS-57. Both of these mics are "dynamic" mics, and either of these mics will work.
You'll need to get a mic stand to place the mic in the proper position on the amp, which is a separate lesson in and of itself.
Next, you need a way to get the mic signal into your computer. The quickest, cheapest, but least featured way to do so would be something like the Blue Icicle. You would plug it into your computer, plug an XLR cable into it, and plug the mic into that cable.
For software, the most basic, and free software is Audacity. It really is pretty basic, but you can plug your stuff in, hit record, and it'll record. If you want something more powerful, check out Reaper. It's really good, and pretty cheap (and has a more or less unlimited trial period if you're that kind of person). It is somewhat complex though, and it'll take a decent amount of time to get comfortable with. If you have a Mac, Garage Band is just peachy.
inally, the last important part is hearing what you're recording. At the low-end, you're probably better off with headphones. I recommend either the Sennheiser HD280s or the less expensive Sony MDR-V6s (mostly identical to their professional MDR-7506s). If you want to get some actual monitors, check out the Behringer MS16s.
Unsurprisingly, you can spend a hell of a lot more money on any of these things. Feel free to ask any questions!
Bonus advice! If you want to record an acoustic guitar, instead of the SM57, you'd want to get a small diaphragm condenser (SDC) mic, like the MXL 603S.
I bought this stand which was pretty cheap, and although no clip is pictured, I'm fairly certain mine came with one in the box.
The headset that broke was the G35 headset from Logitech which goes for about $90 these days. It's a great headset but this would be my 3rd set in 4 years. The mic quality is average and often requires fussing with in post but overall it's a great headset.
While rocking this backup setup I've been using ear buds and I quite like it compared to the closed ear noise cancelling headset so I don't think I want to go the headset route again.
I've always wanted to go the XLR/Mixer route. This would allow me to manipulate any volume/noise issues with the mic on the fly and not touch it at all in post. I never settled on a solution that was afforable and always went with what I knew the G35.
This is the goal. It's not much more expensive than the G35 headset but is the correct tool for the job :Þ
A few notes about these choices. The 5 channel mixer is total overkill but this one functions as a USB audio interface meaning when you plug it in to your PC it shows up like a USB mic would. Behringer makes a 3 port USB mixer but I don't like the way it looks lol.
Not all mixers have the ability to function as a USB device. On NON USB mixers you would have to run the output of the mixer into the input on your soundcard on your PC.
I prefer the audio device approach. You plug your XLR mic into the mixer which is acting as the USB audio device. This allows you to control on the mixer what the computer hears on the audio device interface.
Totally a long and involved answer but some might find it useful if in the market for audio upgrades :Þ
We have this boom mic stand, and it works well both with the boom horizontal, and as a vertical stand. (Needs a cup holder, though.)
> Drum sticks with the rubber tips
I don't know about rubber, but nylon tipped drum sticks are common, either online or at a local music store. We have a pair. 7A is the size of the Rock Band drum sticks.
Sure! I have a Scarlett 2i4 audio interface, although you could probably do the same with the Scarlett 2i2, Scarlett Solo, or most other audio interfaces. I then set the direct monitor to "mono", and turn the knob all the way to "input". Then I just plug in my mic (SM57), plug in my headphones (ATH-M50x), adjust the gain on the mic input and adjust the headphone output, and since it isn't being processed by the computer, its a virtually 0ms latency direct audio.
Here you go.
Or if you want a bass-specific version that is probably a little better quality (though a bit more expensive).
You want exactly amp or something to trevel with and play for yourself? All little amps sounds weak. But Vox amplug is good. 3 types of gain, 9 types of drums with different speed you set by yourself. Decent overall sound. And aux in for mp3 player
https://www.amazon.com/AP2BS-amPlug-Guitar-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00NAUKJTY
These might help.
(continued from previous post)
The DAYUM Build (AKA The You Spend Irresponsibly Build) ~ $5500
Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4930K 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor | $554.98 @ NCIX US
CPU Cooler | Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $89.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Asus Rampage IV Black Edition EATX LGA2011 Motherboard | $391.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Corsair Vengeance 64GB (8 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $594.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $229.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Red Pro 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.74 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Western Digital Red Pro 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.74 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Western Digital Red Pro 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.74 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Western Digital Red Pro 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.74 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Western Digital Red Pro 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.74 @ SuperBiiz
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked Video Card (4-Way SLI) | $549.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked Video Card (4-Way SLI) | $549.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked Video Card (4-Way SLI) | $549.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked Video Card (4-Way SLI) | $549.99 @ Amazon
Case | Fractal Design Define XL R2 (Black Pearl) ATX Full Tower Case | $124.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | Corsair AX1500i 1500W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $405.98 @ Newegg
Optical Drive | Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $16.98 @ OutletPC
Optical Drive | Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $16.98 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Rosewill RNX-N150UBE 802.11b/g/n USB 2.0 Wi-Fi Adapter | $11.98 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.98 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.98 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.98 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.98 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.98 @ OutletPC
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $5407.40
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-28 05:09 EST-0500 |
This shit is gonna blow any Mac Pro away. In fact, it'll blow everything away. You better have a backup generator. And you better know what you're getting into smh. Btw, I have no idea whether this is Hackintosh-compatible. Asus motherboards can be tricky but if you're going to invest this much money you might as well invest the time to set it all up. Or hire someone. Whatever. Oh, and still cheaper than a "comparable" (lol, it doesn't compare) Mac Pro by like, $4000. Buy yourself a render farm. Or more than one computer. Or the Apple Store.
RENDER NODE ~ $500
Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i3-4150 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor | $104.99 @ SuperBiiz
Thermal Compound | Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste | $6.49 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H87N Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard | $96.98 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $61.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $82.99 @ NCIX US
Case | Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case | $78.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | Corsair RM 450W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $88.99 @ Directron
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $521.42
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-28 05:18 EST-0500 |
Time for the render node! You only really need a processor and stuff that fits with it. I went barebones with this, and stuffed it all into the smallest case I could while leaving breathing room for cooling. You can stack these on top of each other. Better yet, buy an IKEA drawer set and put them in drawers. Remember to carve out the back to allow for air to escape and to manage cables. Voila! Your own render farm, nicely tucked next to your desk.
Disclaimer: I got the render-farm-in-drawers idea from this guy. I saw it on a blog like year or two ago, I had no idea he started a website. Check it out!
RECOMMENDED PERIPHERALS
For video editing, gaming, and general use, I recommend the following monitor because it isn't glossy (fuck glare!), is LED-backlit, has IPS technology for amazing viewing angles and color reproduction, is HDMI-compatible, 1080p, has a fast response time (5 ms), and is relatively affordable (about $160 USD street.)
If you want headphones, check these out. They're great middle-range headphones that are good for music, gaming, and other general use.
If you're doing audio work, I recommend using monitors for accurate sound-reproduction and to avoid coloring your mixes. A ton of people I know swear by these. Remember to treat your room! There are great tips and guides for all genres of music over at r/edmproduction. Don't let the name fool you; they have some great stuff for everyone.
In terms of mice, any will do; I personally recommend this one, though.
In terms of keyboards, use whatever you're comfortable with. I know a lot of people swear by mechanical keyboards, especially keyboards that have CherryMX keys. I personally hate them because I'm far more accurate with chiclet keyboards. However, I plan to change my key caps to some that are shallower/need to be pressed harder to register (I currently have Cherry MX Reds, want to switch to Browns). The great thing about mechanical keyboards is that they are customizable! If you are used to Apple Keyboards, this keyboard should provide a good balance between the feel of chiclet keys and that of a mechanical keyboard.
If you're balking at these prices, you're not alone. Unfortunately, quality products mean shelling out hard-earned moolah. If you can afford it and think it will be valuable to you, I think these products should work well for their intended purposes and have good quality. I have personally used all of these products. Of course, don't take my word for it; look around r/buildapc, r/headphones, and r/edmproduction for more recommendations.
(continued in final post)
More speakers doesn't equal more immersive. When buying sound equipment a lot of the value comes from things not properly listed on specifications, such as total range frequency within a certain amount of total harmonic distortion.
A good set of studio monitors is a better sound solution than most people have ever owned.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GP56OYA - Some slightly above entry level studio monitors.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6 - Connection cable needed.
https://www.amazon.com/Studio-Solutions-Density-Isolation-Monitors/dp/B01FGCC2FM - Isolation pads to prevent desk vibration and angles them towards your ears properly.
Assuming your motherboard isn't using a really poor audio chipset and you are using a high quality audio source they will sound pretty good. If you want to hit frequencies below 70Hz with significant volume I suggest adding a dedicated subwoofer of 10" minimum, although 12-15" is more ideal.
Here
Have you looked at using a headphone amp?
You can plug an external audio into the amp and then it goes out to a headphone/earphone. IME this worked fine.
https://www.amazon.com/AP2BS-amPlug-Bass-Guitar-Headphone/dp/B00NAUKJTY
Has anybody got any experience with the vox amplug? Only want to use it for at-home practicing
Looking to get a headphone amp while my current amp gets replaced, and for on-the-go playing in general. I've heard good things about Vox Bass headphone amp, and for $55 CAD it's tempting for the utility.
Thoughts on it? Also, might be a stupid question, but it'll work fine with the jack on the Audio Technica M50x, right?
get a audio interface with xlr outputs or 1/4 outputs. Also your're gonna wanna get balanced outputs.
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC204HD-BEHRINGER/dp/B00QHURLCW
Well, you have a massive leg up on a lot of people in terms of music theory and chops. I'm going to assume you can read a fake book, a chart and are probably a better player than me. Jazz especially will align with composition, voicing and other stuff. Even though classical gives chops, I think (without explicit work) it leads to something that synths or production might not use.
The good thing is, it's not as much practice. It's a lot of toying around, reading and learning. But it's not like playing. You see the opposite problem with people that make a lot of noise but then want to start on composition or music theory. They have all this gear but they don't finish stuff. That's fine for some, just fool around but then there's not much growth. That's pretty much the end game. So what you're going to discover is a universe of TIMBRE. New sounds that are very dynamic. Modulation, timber over time. The problem is, a lot of this stuff won't exercise your chops. Maybe that's ok with you.
Do you have a DAW or a computer to record with? The cheapest way for almost anything is software. U-he makes great plugins and they have Hive as an intro synth. It's no toy either. It just has "
"accessible" priorities. They are releasing a new version soon so maybe wait on that. You're going to need a VST host to go that route. Maybe you have something already. Reaper is free to try. And you'll need a sound card. Almost anything is fine. Behringer has a cheap USB thing for $130: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC204HD-BEHRINGER/dp/B00QHURLCW/
That'd be fine for a while. You'll want to upgrade it if you want to improve recording sound and/or complexity in projects (latency).
Barebones for a software synth:
Otherwise, you could go hardware. In which case, getting the Korg Minilogue is a great intro synth. It only has four voices which might be frustrating. It would teach you the basics of oscillators, filters and ADSR envelopes. Almost anything synth will (including software). If you want more voices, maybe an 8 voice Korg prologue.
Flying Lotus and Jon Hopkins is more about production and layering in which case you probably want to learn a DAW pretty well. That's heavily produced and processed music which might not have a lot to do with "the synth". The sound you're after might be many layers of drums and effects. Hard to say. You'll need to learn plugins, mixing and how to work quickly.
For playing with a live band, I'd only use a hardware synth.
Another way to practice textures and having control over it is something like this.
That's kind of the practice type material/goals you might take on. Then making "that bass sound you heard" is going to be way easier. There's also another synth subreddit /r/synthrecipes/ where people ask for tips on things they heard. I don't know much about that subreddit. Hope this helps ... ask questions ...
Behringer UMC22 is US$48 on Amazon. It will do.
Behringer Uphoria UMC204HD is the best bang for the buck. If you can save some more money you can get it for US$80.
Acoustic foam, ye.
Just couple of suggestions on the audio. I don't know what you have access to for editing but a few things to try.
If you put a side chained compressor on the game audio when there is gaps in the speaking the game volume will increase in volume to level things out. To do this you would run your voice into the sidechain section of a compressor hooked up to the game volume. Set the attack as fast as possible and a medium - long length of the release. Keep a fairly low ratio maybe 4:1 or so and just reduce the threshold until you start hearing a good amount of gain reduction.
Another is to set up a compressor on your voice. Just a basic fast attack and medium - long release. The ratio depends but use from 2:1 up to 4:1. Basically what this will do is when you start speaking louder it will make gain reductions to help keep a consistent volume.
You can also set up a basic EQ to try to kill unnecessary frequencies and harsh ones. Anything above 17-20Khz is unneeded. Humans typically can't hear above 20k and sometimes it can produce high pitched noise that can be annoying/painful to hear. Anything below 20hz should absolutely be removed. You cannot hear below those frequencies but might cause your sub woofer to pump. Think of the feeling you get when there is an explosion in a movie. If you want to do some minor EQ to the voice try to stick to subtractive EQ instead of additive. Basically reduce 1 frequency to make another more prominent in the mix.
Finally if you are not already using it get something like a popper pad or a foam cover for the for the microphone. This will reduce the popping noise you hear when you say words that begin with "P" "B" etc.
If you can as well reduce input gain of the microphone or add a compressor before recording. When you record you should see a visual representation of the gain input/output like this. If you see this reaching red then you are clipping. Clipping causes distortion and can make the sound break apart. Sometimes it is best to have a relatively low input gain, which will make it sound quiet, and then raise the gain after and use a compressor to prevent clipping. Soft clip will help keep the dynamics intact which will allow the volume to fluctuate more. Hard clip will keep a more stable volume but eliminate a lot of the sounds dynamics.
Hi, I had a problem like this when I moved into my new house, and I tried soundproofing wall, look at this or this
You could cut a sheet of plywood to the exact shape of your door...but leaving a few inches of a lip so you can press the large piece of plywood up against what little door frame structure you have.
Then...you cover the plywood in acoustical foam...making sure its a perfect fit in the opening
So basically...you'd have foam that completely covers the entire opening in the wall, but there is enough of a plywood lip so you can press the plywood flat up against the door wall and it won't push throgh.
As for keeping the plywood attached to the actual door...either fashion a makeshift door with some hinges...or use a couple of tight bungee straps and some eye hooks to hold it in place
To add some more insulation for sound, you could put a curtain rod on the outside of the door (in the hallway) and hang heavy blackout curtains.
This would not only provide a way to keep your bedroom door closed when not using the plywood door...it would hide the foam when you were using the plywood door.
You can get things as simple as this from amazon
12 Pack- Acoustic Panels Studio Foam Wedges 1" X 12" X 12" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010GPFRUQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_igBaBbS8PDJTZ
Or
You can get something better with prints too
https://www.acoustimac.com/
Don't use one mic for a group of people. The quality never comes out great. Here's what I use and it totally fits your budget. [Zoomh4n] (http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/H4N?utm_source=CSE&utm_medium=PPC&zmap=H4N&zmac=7&zmas=1&zmam=89202644&SID=0)
mics
cables
splitters
A full setup that will record four local mics, max, or two local mics and a Skype caller. A choice of mics.
Behringer UMC404HD interface for $100 (needs a USB cable I think)
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC404HD-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00QHURLHM/
Behringer HA400 headphone amp for $25
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HA400-BEHRINGER-MICROAMP/dp/B000KIPT30/
Needs two TRS 1/4" stereo cables, one for the headphone amp and one for Skype. $10
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CSS-105-Balanced-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068NYF/
Behringer XM1800S three pack of good enough mics for $40
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-XM1800S-BEHRINGER-ULTRAVOICE/dp/B000NJ2TIE/
or a slightly better Behringer XM8500 at $20 each
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Ultravoice-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002KZAKS/
or a very nice Blue enCORE 100 at $60
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-enCORE-100-Studio-Grade/dp/B002SQJL9U/
A couple 9-foot XLR cables for $12 or vary as you see fit
https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-Cable-Male-Female-Microphone/dp/B074KYQ66J/
On-Stage, desk stand for $13 (lots of options)
https://www.amazon.com/Stage-DS7200-Adjustable-Microphone-Stand/dp/B0002M3OVI/
You need some RCA to 1/4" TS cables. Technically two though there are reasons up to four and this six pack is cheap at $8. Wish they were shorter.
https://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Patch-Cable-Cords/dp/B0010XVYGA/
or you can get by with one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-201-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O16/
and my personal favorite, the UCA202 for $30
https://www.amazon.com/BEHRINGER-U-Control-Low-Latency-Interface-Digital/dp/B000KW2YEI/
This gives you full Skype access to the other rig for Two local mics.
!
I got a Rolls 4 channel stereo active mixer from Amazon that isn't noisy, at least to these ears. It has 1/4 and 1/8 inch TRS inputs and outputs. They make a passive version as well that doesn't require power but I wouldn't recommend it - a cheap Belkin headphone splitter would probably do the same as a passive mixer. https://www.amazon.com/rolls-MX44S-Mini-Mix-Mixer/dp/B00102VV46
Some recommendations:
If you want to see more options, I'm building an open source guide here. It's very much under construction, but there are some good gear lists there.
Post back as you have questions!
I upgraded to xlr back in November and haven't regretted it for a second. Everything sounds so crisp and you can modify the sound to a T, plus there's none of the issues I had with usb.
My setup works perfectly for a 3 or 4 person show. I have the [Behringer XENYX 1202] (http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-1202-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B000J5Y282/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1456941958&sr=8-11&keywords=xlr+mixer) mixer which costs about 75 used but I managed to find one for 50. The only issue with this is that it all records to one track so if you want to isolate someone while editing, no luck. You could probably pay an extra 50 bucks to get a multitrack mixer but I don't think it's worth the money.
For microphones, I use the [Ultravoice XM1800S] (http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-ULTRAVOICE-XM1800S-Cardioid-Microphones/dp/B000NJ2TIE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456942042&sr=8-1&keywords=microphone+3+pack), which come in a 3 pack for about 35 bucks. I really love this microphone even more than my $60 condenser microphone because they don't pick up a lot of background noise so nobody will be bleeding sound onto each others mics!
I also got a 5 pack of cheapo xlr cables on Ebay for less than 10 bucks and a 5 pack of foam pop filters for less than 5 bucks.
Hope this helps and let me know if there's anything else you want help with.
Edit: Multitrack mixer costs 50 bucks more, not 5.
I give this out a lot. I use all of these, and they were recommended by another podcaster who uses them too.
Here is my short list. I personally have used these. I still use everything but the mic (I upgraded) Everything together is less than $125 USD. Good luck!
Mixer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EK1OTZC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mics (You get 3, so you can have others on (they will need their own mixer for this setup) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NJ2TIE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mic Stand, pop filter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EBDZHNQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Sound paneling https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071VDDVHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These things and Audacity (which is free) will help you make a professional sound on a budget.
Don't do this.
When you try to combine audio sources this way you end up sending one audio source into the output of the other audio source. output going into another output is not how it's supposed to work and the electronics don't like it.
What you really need is a mixer. If you have stereo mini (headphone sized) outputs then a mixer like this should do the trick.
Dawg .. https://www.amazon.com/Furman-M-8X2-Outlet-Conditioner-Protector/dp/B003BQ91Y6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504258288&sr=8-3&keywords=furman
This one on Amazon seems like a good place to start. Get one of these for your "always plugged in" gear, then a standard $10 Home Depot power strip for more flexibility. I also should have mentioned that it's a bad idea to "daisy chain" your power strips. One wall outlet = one power strip.
Focusrite 2i4
Seriously, save up a little more money. You will be far happier than with the Behringer, the Mackie, or the Yamaha. You will most likely discover you get what you pay for. Also, you will probably be replacing the cheaper products sooner rather than later.
The Focusrite will allow for a single headphone monitor mix for the engineer, as well as two balanced 1/4" TRS outputs to speakers/FOH, as well as 4 RCA outputs, which could be used for monitors/wedges.
Also, the Focusrite preamps sound way better off the bat, so less EQing.
+1 for Fans for her
+1 for Rugs for you
You guys could also look into these for better insulation. Hang some cool art over them or something.
I don't really think there's any reason anyone needs to be rude to each other. I'd just sit her down and just say: "I've been trying really hard to be conscious of you for the last few months to the point where I'm unable to enjoy my life for fear you're going to send me angry texts. I've tried x, y, z, etc. The fact is that I am not being loud, I'm being as quiet as possible, but the soundproofing just sucks and I can't deal with the stress of upsetting you anymore. Let's look into fans, rugs, and talk to the landlord about soundproofing."
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ATP5KF6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm glad to see that you are researching it out and spending some time thinking about it. That's the right first step! I don't have experience with other mics to speak of, but I'm pretty happy with my purchases and what I'm able to do with them. So, some more food for thought:
I've since also added some additional toys for effects and fun:
Here's a video I made showing what I'm doing with all of this: http://youtu.be/PDmhV3079RI
And if you have a budget you're trying to work within, just stick to that and don't worry about the little differences between a slightly more expensive setup and what fits within your budget.
At home, I'm into desk monitors, for gigs it's DI into PA, for local jamming I have a floor monitor.
I would recommend getting the PreSonus Eris E4.5 or Mackie CR4 for the same price. Both are self powered and will not require an amplifier. You will get much more for your money.
Beginners kits get asked often here. Here is what I wrote up a few weeks ago for beginners kits:
A beginners kit on a tight budget ~$180:
A good beginners kit ~$700:
An advanced hobbyist's kit ~$1975:
I second the Vox Amplug (Bass Version)- One of the absolute best things I've bought! The fact that it has that aux port allows you to plug your phone in and use ANY JAM TRACK on the web, i.e. youtube. And if you're not able to plug in for some reason, it has a few built-in beats to play to (and you change the tempo!)
You can even plug it into effects pedals at the end, as long as you have a long enough headphone cord! It's literally just a small pocket-sized amp that feeds headphones!
Here's an amazon link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAUKJTY/ref=sxts_bia_sr_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3182441022&pd_rd_wg=pKSfj&pf_rd_r=S30ENEJ72YT9AVEYW0W1&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00NAUKJTY&pd_rd_w=TJkkI&pf_rd_i=vox+amplug+bass&pd_rd_r=ZXV3J540X3Y62GEAE9C1&ie=UTF8&qid=1506310891&sr=1
Seriously, buy one now. You will NOT regret it.
Behringer UMC204HD. $80 new, and there's a used one on Amazon Warehouse right now for $68:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/ol/B00QHURLCW/ref=mw_dp_olp?ie=UTF8&condition=all
The thing is pretty fantastic for the money:
https://audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/budget-dac-review-behringer-umc204hd.1658/
Presonus Eris E3.5 or E4.5
3.5s are cheaper and smaller so would fit in nicely with the ultrawide.
Sound quality is second to none within their price range.
Need some tips on purchasing some powered speakers and a preamp.
These are the two speakers I'm looking at:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GP56OYA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BLhPzb88KAQFE
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HG16XFM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MNhPzbZBEEGA6
Also would love any other suggestions besides these two that are at or below the price point.
Below are the two preamps I'm also looking at:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007DB5I60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DOhPzbKPT5V8V
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018WK56JE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7OhPzbPFNQERD
Same as the speakers willing to take suggestions for a possibly better preamp at or around the same price point.
IF you arent trying to spend too much money on it, I'd recommend just heading to a local studio and renting some time to record what you need. That is, unless you are trying to make this a regular thing.
I'll go ahead and throw some links up on what I list as good, low-budget options to get you going.
I'd recommend getting a cardioid condenser mic (AKG AT2020 ~$100), an audio interface with at least one mic preamp and phantom power (Scarlett Solo ~$100), and a pop filter (Audio 2000s AWS4071 ~$10). You'd also need a DAW to edit the tracks, such as cutting out long pauses and words you didn't intend to make into the final cut, and adding a bit of compression and EQ changes. Most likely the audio interface will come with an intro DAW that'll do just enough for what you want to do. For better results you can also pick up an acoustic shield (Monoprice 602650 ~$65) to help isolate the sound, which doesn't seem important just getting into it but once you hear the difference you'll see why its important. Oh, and you'll need to get an XLR cable (~$8) to plug the mic in, but you may or may not want one that's a bit longer than the one I linked.
Something I want to throw in there as well is you'll also probably want to learn how to get on de-essing. In a vocal take, often times an "s" sound will come out very harshly if left unedited. A method to avoid this is to not talk directly into the mic, but slightly off center. Alternatively, you can buy a VST or program that can do it automatically for you. Also, a good thing to do is to reduce noise either through careful automated eq cuts or by using a program such as reafir which can be downloaded for free from the developers here.
If you do get involved with all this craziness, and I know its all pretty intimidating, I'd be happy to help you get on your way to making some great recordings. Just send me a message any time.
It's odd because I find the modmic4 to be a bit bass heavy for my voice.
AT2020 is very popular as is ATR-2500. This seems like a good starter pack though I haven't heard that mic personally. Pick up a mic boom and pop filter as well. Room acoustics can play a bit to it too, if you want to improve the sound from there look into a mic shield, though I'd go the DIY route, from there the sky is the limit with room treatment and an empty wallet.
Hit youtube and search best USB microphone and go from there. There's tons of videos.
Thanks for the question--I've gotten more ideas from the comments! I have to record here and there, so yeah, noise is always a concern. Since you already use Audacity, you know about the noice reduction effect. There are also some effects that can moderate larger background noises which you can google and try out. Otherwise, here are two tips I have used:
I agree that background noise is not a huge issue. With Audacity, the hiss and such can be eliminated so easily for a cleaner sound. I'm finishing up what is supposed to be a kind of lab setting scenario series of audios and I've been handholding a recorder, mostly because of lack of time, but the residual noise gives it a more realistic, live sound (I think). Hope this gives you a few more options! Happy recording!
This bad boy worked wonders for me:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GR9W1MS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You might want to look into headphone amps. They won't replace your regular amp, but they are inexpensive, and great for when you want to practice without disturbing others.
For example this one. I have an older model and I'm am happy with that. There are also other makers.
I use one of these when I want to jam and not bother anybody. Works pretty well, but haven't tried looping it into the pedals:
https://www.amazon.com/AP2BS-amPlug-Bass-Guitar-Headphone/dp/B00NAUKJTY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469472618&sr=8-1
I'm thinking about pulling the trigger on my first bass. Specifically, I'm looking at this Yamaha. From looking around on the subreddit, it seems like most people agree that it is quite good for the price. I just have one question about it if anyone happens to know: the model name listed on the sites ends in a Y (RBX170Y), where most instance of the model name I've seen elsewhere don't have it. Does that mean this is a different version of that bass? Maybe a lower quality one somehow (I know places like Walmart will do something similar where they sell a TV or whatever with a slightly different model name that is inferior, which is why I'm worried).
A second question, I wanted to be polite to the other members of my household, so I was thinking of getting a headphone amp. Do these work well enough for just practicing on my own? I figure that's all I'll be doing for awhile.
I don't have one myself, but a friend loves his:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAUKJTY/
Something like this is what you're looking for.
Hi, there is some advice in the FAQ article:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Bass/wiki/faq#wiki_getting_started
I live in a house with lots of neighbours, so I use one of these headphone amps:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/amPlug2-AP2-BS-Headphone-Amplifier-Rhythms/dp/B00NAUKJTY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=vox+amplug+bass&qid=1570555595&sr=8-3
That way I can plug my ipod into it as well as my headphones, and play along to my favourite songs without disturbing anyone.
If you don't want to buy an amp then you will find that it's hard to hear what you are playing, and also you will tend to play harder and not notice certain mistakes, like bad muting. Not impossible but I would definitely recommend to get some sort of amp, or interface to plug your guitar into your computer.
Non-mobile: This is version 2
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
I get this problem, because I like to run my Aguilar head without a cab into my mixer or audio interface and plug the headphones in there. At least, that's how I can practice silently with some reasonable sense of my tone, since that's the head I play through live. I usually run my pedals on this setup, too, so that's more gear I'm tied to / tangled up in.
When I'm focused on running sets, though, and only worried about my hands (and not so much the guitar's controls or my amp tone) I use a vox amplug. It's the v2 bass model, if anyone is interested, I've recommended / discussed it in this sub before. The tone is acceptable, but the real benefit is that this battery powered unit plugs into the bass, and my headphones into it - no other gear required. So I'm only tethered to the instrument and not to the board or my amp head. Plus it's cheap and the battery life is pretty darn good. The tone and beats to play along with aren't really for me, but might suit some players.
At least, that's what works for me.
Edit- Thanks for clearing that up! One is on the way! (3-6 months from now...) Yeah, they're 79.99 on amazon and a bunch of other sites, if you don't mind waiting this looks like a really freaking good audio interface if you're reading this and you don't have one. I have read that usb 3.0 and the drivers from behringer are required. Also apparently macs will handle this puppy without drivers I think. Yay!
Again, thanks for all the help you guys! I'll pin this sucker to my fridge lol ;P
Original post:
Yeah so I have plans to do a live show, triggering audio and midi clips from the launchpad and possibly soloing/talkboxing live when the midi to the synth isn't playing. I don't want to get a whole bunch more equipment, I'm looking to get just the behringer umc 204hd (currently on sale on amazon right now for less than the 202hd)
I've tried explaining this just via text before but really i'm more a visual kind of guy
I want the audio to go into the daw without also going out live through the back end, so that I can apply sidechaining and mixing eq effects to it and end up with a finished master channel that is more polished and much more controlled than just trying to mix in the synth outside of the daw.
Being able to put a master compressor on everything and know that it's gonna sound dope as hell as it comes out is basically what I want to do. Make a live experience that is super polished and took a lot of work to set up, but is also flexible enough to not feel "prerecorded", everything is just a little bit more planned out than a dj set may be.
Also if you could recommend a similar audio interface which can do all I ask of it, as stated above, that would also be great.
Cheers and thanks for trying to decipher my chart/diagram! I spent all of 30 minutes making it as neat as possible with just a mouse.
So when recording vocals and guitar at the same time, like you'd like to do, the debate on what to do is really about how much control you want over editing in the end process.
- If you don't care about control on the individual levels of guitar and vocals AND want to record in one take with both instruments, all you need is one mic, XLR, Mic stand, headphones, and an interface to get the signal into your computer.
In this situation, you need A. and Interface that is cheap but not a POS because it really affects the sound of your recording. Behringer makes a cheap interface for 1 Input (microphone) and actually has a decent Preamp in it. B, you need a microphone and cable (XLR, Balanced) to capture the sound and send it to the interface. This area people could talk forever about, but for just getting the job done and a decent sound, AT2020 Condenser (Currently On Sale) is a great option for capturing both your voice and guitar. any XLR will do $10 or something like that.
- If you wanted to track the guitar and vocals separately, one at a time, the only change I would make is the microphone. Shure SM57 would do great for vocals and guitar individually. There have been many singles and albums in the rock, acoustic, and folk category recorded on these mics alone with fantastic results.
​
- If recording the guitar and the vocals at the SAME TIME is the route you want, it's definitely possible. 2 Input interface, Two mics, Two XLR's, Two Mic stands, headphones.
- a change in interface is needed from the first behringer to this one because they have the same sound only difference is the amount of inputs for ~$50 more. Next would be buying two microphones, both options listed above are probably going to be the cheapest you'll find with a decent sound. You can find packages like this on guitar center and other audio retailers, but the mics come with a lot of bad frequencies in my opinion, but hard to argue $99 for two microphones. get the cables, plug everything up and record enable two live tracks in you preferred DAW.
​
As far as the computer goes, Ableton hands out free versions of its "lite" program, and I believe you can record in that version. That would be the best route in my opinion for DAW, Reaper is a good option, I'd stay away from fruity loops if you are mainly just going to be recording audio.
Most of these solutions will put you under or around $250 so I hope this helps, if you have more questions let me know.
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Yeti-USB-Microphone/dp/B002VA464S
http://www.amazon.com/Dragonpad-filter-Microphone-Flexible-Gooseneck/dp/B008AOH1O6/ref=pd_bxgy_267_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0VF9ZSWVQX5GHJ6RTG7E
http://www.amazon.com/Pack--Acoustic-Panels-Studio-Wedges/dp/B010GPFRUQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1465247411&sr=1-1&keywords=sound+foam
http://www.adobe.com/creativecloud/catalog/desktop.html
;)
Quick question, do you have any power conditioners? It's one of the first things I recommend when people have power problems. It'll also serve as a nice surge protector. They can be had for like 80 bucks and will save you a lot of hassle. From the sound of it, it's a ripple from shitty electricity, It'll clean up most power problems. Here is a good one. Also, is this a system you bought from PartsExpress by chance?
The Rode podcaster is a REALLY great mic. However, it is also a dynamic mic which has a low sensitivity. It is meant to be used a few inches from your mouth and probably would not be very well suited for picking up multiple people.
The best way to mic multiple people on a single recording is to get several XLR dynamic mics and feed them into a mixing board or preamp. The Akai EIE is great for this because you can have multiple audio streams output to your computer. However, a Behringer Xenyx 1202USB or a Tascam 1200 would work well too. Pair that with a few
If you want to do mic multiple people with one mic then you're looking at a condenser mic. For the price of your podcaster($230) I have a few suggestions. I would still look at getting an XLR setup, because they are much better IMO.
Pair one of those mics with the Behringer Zenyz Q802 USB ($80), Focusrite Scarlett 2i2, ($150), Focusrite Scarlett Solo ($100), Presonus AudioBox 2x2 ($100), or Presonus AudioBox iOne ($70). For future-proofing I suggest gettign at least a 2 channel audio interface, in case you want to add more mics later. That's up to you. Make sure you factor in the price of a mic stand.
If you have any questions let me know! You could always go with a USB mic, like the Blue Yeti or the AT2020USB, but I think you'd have more luck with the XLR setup. Up to you.
http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-6i6-Interface-Preamps/dp/B00CP4IIJY
http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-2i4-USB-Interface/dp/B009B15N0Q
Here's the one I use. They're great if you can spare the cash.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/FOCUSRITE-SCARLETT-Audio-interfaces-USB-Red/dp/B009B15N0Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1415059684&sr=8-2&keywords=focusrite
Pair that up with some good headphones/monitors and you're all set.
Hello! I have a noob question for my setup that probably isn't relevant enough to warrant its own post but it might be simple enough that you could answer real quick.
I just bought these studio monitors:
https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR-CR3-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4E and have the top left L and R inputs connected to my Scarlett 2i4 audio interface (https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-2i4-USB-Interface/dp/B009B15N0Q) in the balanced inputs 1 and 2 on the back right with TRS cables, but now I don't know what to do to actually be able to get my computer to "recognize" them and use them in my DAW or otherwise be able to control them through my audio interface. The monitors themselves work fine because I can still use them with the auxiliary cable plugged directly into my laptop, but that is a temporary fix because then I can't use my audio interface to control them. No idea what to do and I feel so dumb!
Any help would be huge. I'm using a PC with Windows 10 and my DAW is Reason 10 if that helps at all. Thanks!
I'll give this a go, open for suggestions from others to improve. This is obviously higher than you asked for at $833 after rebates, but it's good value. You can save maybe about $130 by going down to 8gb of ram, GTX 950, and dropping the SSD. It would still be a great pc.
You can easily add RAM later. I really like the speediness of putting the OS and your main software for production on the SSD, and using the HDD as storage for all your recordings. It's slightly more involved if you add an SSD later and move your OS/software over, but doable.
For using your digital piano and MIDI, I highly suggest getting a good interface like this Scarlett which is basically an external sound card with excellent preamps and midi in/out.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor | $209.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-B150M-D3H DDR3 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $73.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $66.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $77.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $45.99 @ SuperBiiz
Video Card | MSI GeForce GTX 960 2GB Video Card | $179.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $44.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $52.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 OEM (64-bit) | $80.89 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $863.81
| Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
| Total | $833.81
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-02 15:15 EST-0500 |
Scarlett 2i4 is a better investment
The writing and editing are very well done! However the volume level needs to be about 10db higher, at least (had to double my volume just to hear it). Also, you need a pop filter!
Great work though :)
Amazon. Its a 6 inch.
Neewer NW(B-3) 6 inch Studio Microphone Mic Round Shape Wind Pop Filter Mask Shield with Stand Clip (Black Filter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ACFAULC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_ynBbAbTB7WBDM
It was like $7.00.
If it's just you and your buddy and you aren't doing any Skype call-ins, and you guys can both be in the same room all you'll need is...
Two mics:
ENTRY/BASIC: https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR2100-USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B004QJOZS4/ - $64.00 American - $128 total.
Intermediate: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/356521-REG/Audio_Technica_AT2020_AT2020_Condenser_Microphone.html - $99.00 American - $200 total.
Two XLR cables: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JNLTTKS/ - $5.99 American - $12.00 total.
One XLR-to-USB setup: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CTKI45M/ - $99.00 American
Two Scissor Arms: https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Microphone-Suspension-Broadcasting-Voice-Over/dp/B00DY1F2CS/ - $12.99 American - $26.00 total
Two Pop Filters: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Studio-Microphone-Filter-Shield/dp/B00ACFAULC/ - $6.95 American each - $14.00 total.
A DAW: Audacity - Free - https://www.audacityteam.org/download/
TOTAL BASIC COST: $280-355 American
If you need to do a Skype call Mix-Minus it will cost an extra $20-50 depending on how you would like to do it.
Decent mic arm
Pretty good mic
Phantom power supply which you need because this is a condenser mic and requires external power to operate
Pop filter because duh
Decent Headphones imo
Total: 132.55 with sales.
Audiophiles will probably jump down my throat for this list but this is an okay starting point if you want decent equipment. The mic's a little quiet but this can be fixed computer-side.
Yeah I used to cover the mic with a thin sock (clean) but there's cheap pop filters on Amazon, for example this "Mic Wind Screen Pop Filter Mask Shield" that can't seem to decide what to call itself. A dedicated filter just works so much better than something like a sock or paper that will muddy up their voice in a genre where the vocals are often central and also something not on a stand might brush the grate
or even worse if the person you had holding up the toilet paper didn't like the rapper they might try to use it to smother them and take their life, and then it will be hard to get a vocal take
Continue to practice until you feel that you can overcome your nervousness. Redo the lines where you feel you stuttered, or edit them out. I've recently been given advice on my speech and audio quality as well.
This is going to be long, but I hope it helps:
My problem with my speech during recording is that air gets recorded as well (if I make popping sounds when I say a certain word such as Piano, Karen, etc.)
So, I've told to keep away from recording too closely, and I tested it out recently, and it's working perfectly!
As for the audio quality/mic, here a few links I've been given as well to improve it:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XBQ8UGG/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ACFAULC/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076HMR23G/
I also use audacity for audio editing (editing out stutter words or incorrect words, adding in the right words, increasing the audio volume, reducing background noise, etc)
You'll definitely get better the more you practice, and this is your first video, so it's not going to be perfect.
I didn't mean to make this long, but I hope this helps!
put these up on atleast 1 wall.
http://www.amazon.com/2x12x12-BURGUNDY-CHARCOAL-Acoustic-Soundproofing/dp/B00ATP5KF6
And lay out some nice soft dark carpet.
Just buy soundproof foam on Amazon, will be easier than mattresses or egg cartons.
http://www.amazon.com/2x12x12-BURGUNDY-CHARCOAL-Acoustic-Soundproofing/dp/B00ATP5KF6
Works pretty damn well, and its easy to cut to fit specific window shapes.
I used a Yeti for the first few years of my channel. I loved it and got great results from it, however the background noise was a bit too much so I knew eventually I'd want to switch to a dynamic (or at least a much better condenser).
My suggestion to people is to get an ATR2100 ($64) to start with as a USB microphone. Then, when you've saved up money and decided to go the next step, purchase a USB mixer (I have this one ($80), or you could use this one ($60) which is only one channel and cheaper). There's a noticeable difference between the USB and XLR interfaces of the ATR2100. Some people even like the USB better, I don't, but then again I'm adding EQ and compression through the mixer which for me yields better results than software effects.
Get a USB mixer, like a Behringer Xenyx Q502USB. Fairly inexpensive, works well.
You can even run game/PC audio into the 2track so you can hear it and voice on headphones without the game audio going back out.
Pretty sure that's a Behringer Q502USB.
I used the older version of this for a while, and while it's not the greatest sound quality, it works and isn't too much money. It has the ability to plug into your computer so you can record.
No experience with this one, but it has decent reviews, is cheap, and would work for what you need with a little room to expand but no USB implementation.
And this is the one I'm currently using and really like. A lot of room to expand here. It has built in effects, but I don't think they sound very good. No USB either, but it's pretty cheap for what you're getting.
Take a look at the inputs on whichever one you decide on, as they may required some adapters (1/8" Stereo to 1/4" dual mono, etc...) to work with your setup. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Hey there, I was told to post my question here, so here it is.
What are some good alternatives to the Audioengine A5+ speakers? Under 400 dollars.
I like the audioengines because they're small and they have a nice classy reserved look to them. But I hear they aren't the best and I could do better, for cheaper.
It's been suggested I pick up the Rokits over here:
http://www.amazon.com/KRK-RP5G3-NA-Generation-Powered-Monitor/dp/B00FX7MMRO/ref=pd_cp_MI_1
They're much cheaper than the Audioengines. The thing is that they're hideous. The yellow ruins them for me.
Also the Audioengines seem to come with all the cables, a remote and a front volume knob. Not sure the Rokits have any of that.
Alternatives would be within 400 dollars. Preferably less.
Unless I pick up an amp and bookshelf speakers, but again, I have no idea what's good.
Note I'm not looking for any big boomy bass. I just want the music to be clear, and sound much better than what I've heard before. Which have been a pair of Beats my brother bought me (I know they are overrated, but he gets a huge discount on them).
I also know that Audioengines are desktop monitors, but I'd be using them to fill a small living room kitchen combo (16' - 2" x 18' - 8"). Source is a turntable. Maybe the occassional iPod or laptop.
I'd rather have nice headphones than nice speakers but one of my old work setups used these and they sounded great.
https://www.amazon.com/KRK-RP5G3-NA-Generation-Powered-Monitor/dp/B00FX7MMRO/ref=pd_cp_147_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9F85T5C1NXWHEQ9E4C0B
These are popular.
You will just want a studio monitor for the most accurate audio reproduction. Entertainment speakers might not be suitable.
KRK Rokit 5 G3 are amazing for their price.
XLR-to-TRS cables, get two of these as well. The 2i2 connects to monitors via 1/4", and the KRKs themselves can use XLR, 1/4", or RCA.
Computer + Peripherals ($450) - https://pcpartpicker.com/list/XR6vyf
Monitors ($300) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FX7MMRO/
Audio Interface ($400) - https://reverb.com/item/3255897-m-audio-mtrack8xus-m-track-eight-8-input-usb-audio-interface
XLR Cables ($90) - https://reverb.com/item/4353505-pig-hog-phm15-8mm-15-foot-mic-cables-xlr-to-xlr-6-pack
Stands ($100) - https://reverb.com/item/1799678-6-pro-audio-dj-tripod-adjustable-height-boom-mic-microphone-stands-6-free-mic-mounts
With the money that's left, get microphones to your need. A handful of SM57's, if you're micing a drum kit, grab an E602 for the kick and some cheaper condensers, etc.
The build quality of the KRK's is not evident when you use them, but it absolutely shows when they stop working. They have the reputation of having substantially higher failure rates compared to other products that they compete with, according to professional retailers who repair them all the time. Rokits are popular and trendy, but they aren't built with the same quality as Yamahas. Regarding the flat response, if you're looking for a sound system with more color, I'm not sure that I would necessarily go with KRK's or studio monitors over other products, as studio monitors are designed to give you a neutral sound.
I sold my KRKs and bought Paradigm Shift A2s and am tremendously happy that I did.
Let me draw a small comparison between the two products through amazon reviews. While both are great products with great ratings, you'll see some evidence of what I'm trying to get across when you look at non-5 star reviews.
KRK Rokit 8's on amazon have worse reviews than the 5s, and have fewer ratings, but regarding reliability and build quality we can assume that they are at least equal to Rokit 5s. The Rokits have 76% 5 star ratings, 10% 4 star ratings, and 14% 1, 2 and 3 star ratings. When you dig into the reviews, people complain about them failing after several months, or having other reliability problems.
Yamaha HS8s are more reviewed, and have higher ratings across the board. 89% of customers have them 5 stars, 7% have given them 4 stars, and only 4% have given them 1, 2 or 3 stars but with no mention of problems regarding serious performance issues.
Of course, these amazon reviews only say so much, but hopefully you understand the idea that I'm trying to get across. KRK cuts corners with QC and it's very evident in the big picture, there are other brands to look into with a bit of research.
https://www.amazon.com/KRK-RP5G3-NA-Generation-Powered-Monitor/dp/B00FX7MMRO/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1505242802&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=rokit+8&psc=1&smid=AJFLJ7J2AIXGD
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-HS8-Studio-Monitor-Black/dp/B00DCYMVB2/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_sims?ie=UTF8
The [Rolls VP29] (http://www.amazon.com/Rolls-VP29-Phono-preamplifier/dp/B0002BG2R2) is an affordable, basic preamp. It isn't anything fancy- there are no vacuum tubes housed in chrome or anything, but it is a solid little preamp.
What would be the difference between these Phono Preamps? They all vary in price, and I've seen them all talked about on this sub, and I've researched review sites/videos on Google and YouTube, etc. And I really can't find someone saying one or the other is clearly better. There's just so many preamps I see that are recommended, and I keep asking questions in this thread to get a better idea so that I can purchase one.
Schiit Mani -- http://schiit.com/products/mani
Music Fidelity V90 LPS -- https://www.amazon.com/Musical-Fidelity-V90-LPS-Phono-Preamp/dp/B00E5BY9SO/ref=sr_1_2?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1475180747&sr=1-2&keywords=schiit+mani
Rolls VP29 --https://www.amazon.com/rolls-VP29-Phono-Preamp/dp/B0002BG2R2/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1475183493&sr=8-6&keywords=bellari+phono
Pro-Ject Phono Box MM -- https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Ject-Phono-Box-Preamplifier-Black/dp/B000YEK1AQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1475183640&sr=1-2&keywords=project+phono
Hackerman Bugle 2 -- https://hagerman-audio-labs.myshopify.com/products/bugle2
Pro-Ject Phono-Box S -- https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Ject-Audio-Phono-preamplifier-Silver/dp/B007I961IQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475184602&sr=8-1&keywords=project+phono+preamp+s
These are all phono preamps that I've seen that are pretty popular on the Internet and on forums, reddit, etc, but I don't know the difference between all of these. If it helps, I just purchased a Pro-Ject Debut Carbon DC and I already have Audioengine 5 speakers.
For budget, I'd want to stick between $100 and $200, but I'm willing to go to $250.
Yes it is bad. You can get a used p mount deck off of eBay or goodwill.com for the same price and be happy.
Edit here is an example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/TECHNICS-SL-B200-SEMI-AUTO-BELT-DRIVE-TURNTABLE-JAPAN-1983-TESTED-WORKS-/201697505984?hash=item2ef61bb2c0:g:YpkAAOSwXeJYC47p
And this ifor you don't have a receiver with a phono stage https://www.amazon.com/rolls-VP29-Phono-Preamp/dp/B0002BG2R2
Describe the hum, the components involved in the hum, and all of the conditions under which the hum will arise. There are many sources of hums.
EDIT: Adding in the comment that I made on another thread for a user who was experience what sounded like a ground loop hum. I know you said that the Hum X doesn't work for Australia, so ignore that section. Also, I'm referring to a Valhalla and pair of JBLs as the source of the hum, but you can substitute that for any amplified source.
>As for the buzzing, I've had all sorts or horrible buzzes in my various apartment buildings. Here are some things to try just in case the surge protector with noise filtering doesn't help (my very expensive Furman didn't anything for my own issues). You're smarter than I am and probably know all of this and more, but just in case it helps you (or others):
>1) Confirm that it is a ground loop. Use a cheater plug on the valhalla when it's buzzing. If the buzz goes away, then it's a ground loop hum. You shouldn't use cheater plugs permanently for safety reasons, but they are helpful in diagnosing the problem.
>2) Identify the source of the loop. Unplug everything in your system, turn on the valhalla (or JBLs, whichever is buzzing at the time), and then plug everything in one by one until you can hear the buzz again. Often the source is from a cable connection for tv/internet, if that's wired to components in your system. Disconnect the coax from the wall and see if the hum disappears. If that's it, try this on the coax directly out of the wall and before your modem/tv
>3) As a safe alternative to the cheater plug, Hum X works wonders for ground loops. Throw it on your Valhalla or the component that's giving you trouble, and it will safely isolate it and you can be done with the problem.
>4) Balanced cables are often helpful for buzzing/interference between components, especially on studio monitors, but it tends to be much more expensive to find a DAC with balanced outs. Even a cheap audio interface from Focusrite or Sternberg might help if you just want to feed a balanced connection to your JBLs, even though you have nicer DACs for you headphones. Or just spend $900 like me on a Dangerous Music Source as a monitor controller ;)
>5) It doesn't sound like you're experiencing this, but for anybody else who has a hum on an amplifier's transformer that none of the above will solve, it could be DC offset from something in your building, like a dimmer, refrigerator, plasma tv... This guy from Emotiva saved my home theater where my expensive Furman line filter failed. I don't know anybody else who makes this exact product. I have a powerful Parasound amp for my 2-channel setup that was getting interference from something in my building, and I was about to sell it before plugging it into this. Viola, crystal clear.
Still not grounded correctly. Try to ground each of them separately to see if the hum changes/disappears. Could be numerous things: TT, preamp, receiver, or even your house wiring (hopefully not this). I would google "ground stereo equipment" or something similar and try to follow the different steps in order to isolate the problem. There are also products made to eliminate ground loop hum such as Hum Eliminator and Hum X Voltage Hum Filter. I actually used the second one at an old house I rented which had shit wiring and it eliminated the hum I always got when connecting my TT to my computer for sampling and then played out through the receiver. I have it in my current house to the outlet my stereo equipment is plugged in though it's probably more for show now than actually functionality.
If it seems more apparent when other devices on powered on, you may be experiencing a ground loop. To test this, unplug all other devices except the amp and preamp. If the sound is gone, start plugging things in, one device at a time, and power them on. If it starts to hum, unplug the last device you plugged in to see if the humming is gone. Is that device a 2 prong or 3 prong plug? If it's a 2 prong, that may be your problem. You can get a cheater plug from a hardware store to see if the humming goes away with all devices plugged in and running. If that cures the problem, you may want to purchase a Hum X. The Hum X will filter out the ground loop noise and will be safer for your amp than a cheater plug.
I have a Parasound HCA-750A. It suffers from ground loop hum and this fixed my problem.
http://www.amazon.com/Ebtech-Hum-Voltage-Filter/dp/B0002E4YI8
The Zoom H6 has a ton of other applications besides just making podcasts. If you work in media, it's a tremendous investment to make that will pay for itself over time. And it's tremendous for podcasting. If you wind up recording more then two people, you have the flexibility to record up to 6 independent tracks. I also have a hack that I can use it to record skype interviews straight to the recorder. I whole heartedly recommend you buy one.
Mics are really up to you and what sound you want. I use these mics for my podcast, and they sound fine for my purposes. Not great, but good enough. I love them because they are not sensitive enough to pick up to much bleed from other mics.
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Ultravoice-XM1800S-Instrument-Microphones/dp/B000NJ2TIE?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_2529020011
Thanks for this. I just ordered a whole pile of stuff on Amazon with Prime. Came out to be a good bit cheaper than your estimate. I traded down on a couple of things like the vocal mics (Behringers for 1/3 the price) and direct boxes (half the price). The big thing I skimped on to make my budget was the mixer - I got a Behringer 12-channel mixer with great reviews for about $90. Hopefully it will get the job done.
Definitely couldn't have figured out what to buy without you. Hopefully this is everything we need for a great summer and beyond!
This is the smallest one I could find: http://www.amazon.com/Rolls-ROLLS-MX44s-Mini-Mix-IV/dp/B00102VV46/ref=pd_cp_MI_0
Audio Switch or Audio Mixer
Search for 3.5mm audio mixer. This is an example of one. There are many options. One with microphone and audio will be harder to find / more expensive.
This is what I use.
How it works is there is 4 inputs in the front. I have my PC, PS4, and MP3 player plugged into it. On the back there is one output where you plug in your headset. It's one of the cheapest mixer out there and it works great with no noise and you can control the volume right on the mixer.
I've been wanting to make a small battery-powered setup for a while. My idea was:
Well here's where it depends on what you want to do with the recordings after the initial recording. If you aren't looking to mix and edit the individual instrument tracks afterwards, you could use the 8 mic inputs on your mixer, and output the audio to your pc via a usb interface like the Focusrite 2i2:
https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-2i2-GENERATION-USB-Recording/dp/B005OZE9SA
Now miking exerything up: You've got Bass and keys which could easily be lined directly into the mixer. For vocals, you're looking for a straightforward dynamic micropohone, a common workhorse is the SM-58 or SM-57, now at around $100 this might be more than you are looking to spend, but then again, you can never go with a 58 or 57. If you wand a good budget clone, I'd look at the $35 GLS ES-57 https://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Instrument-Microphone-ES-57/product-reviews/B001W99HE8/ref=cm_cr_dp_see_all_btm?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1&sortBy=recent
For guitar, again the industy workhorse is the SM-57, so again you could grab another ES-57, and move on to the Drums.
You've got 4 channels left, so You're probably going to want Kick, Snare, and 2 overheads.
Kick drum you probably want to go with something with a larger element, and while nothing extraordinary, Cad makes a couple kick mics for around 40 bucks https://www.amazon.com/CAD-Audio-KBM412-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002D0Q7W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474769856&sr=8-1&keywords=Kick+drum+microphone
Snare, grab another ES-57, as an SM-57 would be the go to.
Overheads, If your mixer can supply phantom power, there's a plethora of small diameter condenser microphones to choose from. For $100 you can get a set of Monoprice condensers and while you're not going to blown away by the sound, for $100, they'll be more than enough in this situation. https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=600700
Add in 6 15' mic cables at 10 bucks a piece via monoprice https://www.monoprice.com/category?c_id=115&cp_id=11509&cs_id=1150902 - 4 1/4 cables for the bass, keys and to go from your mixer output to the audio interface and thats about it.
1 - Focusrite 2i2 - $125
3 - GMS ES-57 - $120
1 - Cad kick drum mic - $40
1 - Stereo Pair Monoprice condensers - $100
6 - Xlr microphone cables - $60
4 - 1/4 Cables - $30
Grand total $475.
With this, whatever comes into the mixer is what you're gonna get, so you'll need to make sure you have all your panning, eq, and levels set the way you want them, because aside from some post production eqing, that's pretty much what you're going to get. If you're looking for individual tracks for individual instruments, thats going to take an audio interface with at least 8 inputs, and probably set you back 400-500 on the low end.
Assuming you mean acoustic guitar, the cheapest setup I would recommend is these three items:
GLS Audio ES-57 which is $40 and very similar to the legendary SM57.
AT2020 condenser microphone for $50.
Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 recording interface for $150.
You'll then need cables and stands, which will run you $40 at the cheapest, but you might want to get some better cables which can be around $10 each.
I recommend cables with rubber connectors like this, the ones with smooth metallic ends generally have really terrible soldering and are very breakable.
(Ones like this are okay).
This is a lot better than just getting a microphone that already has USB, and the AT2020 for $50 is a steal.
I like what the 57 does to the mids on a snare. A flatter mic on a guitar cab is nice, but the 57 will usually work fine for me. If you do want a flatter mic, don't fuck with your good 57, get another flatter mic! Something like the ES-57 works great and it's cheap as hell.
Either the aforementioned Focusrite, or the Presonus Audiobox USB are both good choices. The Focusrite has more honest preamps, but lacks the midi connections that the Audiobox has. Both come with very good DAWs (The Focusrite comes with Ableton Live Lite, the Presonus comes with Studio One Artist), but you can also download the ShareWare Reaper if you prefer. DAW choice is like picking a sports team. People are passionate about their choices. For a mic, I'd look at one of these. It's an excellent SM-57 clone that some audio engineers prefer to the SM-57. I have a pile of them in my mic cabinet, and it's probably my most used mic. It's like a swiss-army mic. If I were limited to one, it would be this one.
^ This.
Also, if you want to get a bit of the ambience of the stage/room, plug in another mic (or two, for a good stereo mix) and add that into the mix so it doesn't sound so dry. It helps, trust me.
in which case, this would help.. http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-XENYX-X1204USB-12-Channel-Mixer/dp/B0039PPW60/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1396237588&sr=1-1&keywords=behringer+1204
Assuming you mean you currently have the Mackie ProFX8. The whole ProFX series lacks PFL buttons and its infuriating. If you want to stay at that size, check out these:
Mackie 802 (8ch, 2/3 mono, 2/3 stereo): http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/802VLZ4?adpos=1o1&creative=55678035601&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=Cj0KEQiAsueiBRCT8YOM4PDElsYBEiQAaiI4IArRxcWBy8B8NCzHvPFZmTAo8_g7eezZjRlvDURTRy4aAp-Q8P8HAQ
Mackie 1202 (12ch, 4 mono, 4 stereo): http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/1202VLZ4?adpos=1o2&creative=55678035601&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=Cj0KEQiAsueiBRCT8YOM4PDElsYBEiQAaiI4IDsKSyG59ten3hPoSA-m7T2aRTAt6b0_qx7TcJhrflMaAnQB8P8HAQ
Mackie 1402 (14 channel, 6 mono, 4 stereo) is another option if you need something larger. The entire VLZ3 or VLZ4 series from Mackie will do what you need (except the 402).
Allen and Heath ZED 10 (10 channel, 4 mono, 3 stereo): http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/ZED10
Behringer XENYX X1204USB (8ch, 4 mono, 2 stereo, sounds really mediocre and build quality leaves something to be desired but it works. I use one weekly at work and wish we had a Mackie): http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-X1204USB-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B0039PPW60/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1415221259&sr=8-6&keywords=behringer+mixer
You could also get a headphone amp or something and build yourself a prefade monitor mix off of an aux send on your current mixer.
Agreed. You need an external mixer that can dual as a soundcard. There are a few good candidates out there that would fit this description.
Budget: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Xenyx-1204USB-Premium-12-Input/dp/B0039PPW60
Mid Tier: http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/ZED14
High End: http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SLCS18AI
Well... I can honestly say that's a new one for mic preference. Bravo?
As far as a mount, that mic is light enough that you can pretty much use anything. There's a bunch of identical entry-level scissor mounts, all with the same design/clamp, like this one (hell, there's even one for a couple bucks more that comes with a pop filter). I use this for my own desk setup with an NTG-2, works alright, just know that it has its quirks and can't support anything over maybe a pound without overloading the friction plate.
inb4 PSA1 recommendations for a Disney mic.
Honestly dude you should just buy a audio interface and a condenser microphone.
Edit : i have a scarlett solo for anyone interested $50.00 shipped anywhere in United states.
Scarlett came out with the 3rd Gen recently. Do you need the 2i2, would you be OK with the Solo? I'm from the US, so I am not sure what the prices would be in EU. But here is the link for the 3rd Gen Solo ($109 USD)
- https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B07QR6Z1JB/
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As far as mic, there are plenty of options under $200. But the Rode NT-1 is an awesome mic. I actually own it, and have been using it for the past month or two with my Apollo Twin USB. It has a flat frequency response which is great for allowing the most flexibility when manipulating the audio in post. Don't get fooled by the graph, as they have updated the NT-1 [The old NT-1 had a different frequency response]. This is the new response graph.
- http://cdn1.rode.com/nt1_datasheet.pdf
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If you're looking for used, I would check out Reverb. They have the NT-1 on Reverb for sub $200:
- https://reverb.com/p/rode-nt-1-kit-w-slash-shockmount-and-pop-filter
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Another good mic for $200 is the sE Electronics X1 S. They have a vocal bundle on Sweetwater for $200
- https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/X1SVocalPk--se-electronics-x1-s-vocal-bundle
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Lastly, there's a $150 mic called the AKG P220.
- https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/P220--akg-p220-large-diaphragm-condenser-microphone
- https://www.amazon.com/AKG-High-Performance-Vocal-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B00M9CUJ6W/
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All these microphones are Large-diaphragm Condenser Microphones. And as already stated, they all have a pretty flat frequency response.
I believe you're looking for something like the Focusrite Scarlett series of DAC/ADC units. I'd recommend this one: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07QR6Z1JB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SuVxDbSC995WD
There's a toggle on the device that allows you to switch between "monitor" mode and a regular pc pass through. So you can leave your headphones plugged in to the device, and the device plugged into the pc, while still being able to switch back and forth between game/jam sessions.
Just a comment about the audio:
What it sound like in this video is that you're a bit far away from the mic, that may not be the case, but you should try to stay as close as you can to the mic so that you can pick up clear consonant sounds for more crisp audio. The other case is that you're recording in a place that has a decent amount of open space with no sound absorbing material. Consider recording in a closet with clothes or under a blanket if you're unable to afford things like sound foam to cover a recording space(I use sound foam, it really helps take the reverb out). When recording or making content, the ends justify the means.
If you're able to afford something like Adobe Audition, it has an Amplitude tool called Dynamics Processing which lets you modify sounds that go above or below a certain dB level, which can boost the volume of your voice. This can help you out a lot because when people hit the end of a sentence, they tend to go lower in volume. Also you can use Dynamics Processing to eliminate those pesky room tones.
Loved the video! Definitely well written. Keep up the good work!
-Gamebomb
Well I mean it's the difference between a $30 and $150 mic setup lol, trust me you'd be hard pressed to hear differences on discord or teamspeak between these two. I honestly recommend the cheaper CAD U37 over the ATR2500 that I have if you have the space for the stand and I seriously suggest a mic arm to help dampen vibration from the keyboard. Otherwise if you don't have the room for it the Boom Pro is what I would go for.
If you're on a budget
This mixer with this mic and this stand
The mic is a dynamic as opposed to a condenser (and on amazon comes with a free cable) So it won't pick up background noise nearly as bad as a condenser (especially the yeti) would, and the stand comes with a pop filter. When you decide to upgrade the mic, you can buy an inline phantom power box for like 20 bucks (the unit only has 15v, which isn't enough for most condensers) if you decide to go the condenser route down the road.
This Neewer one is the one usually recommended (I've had this one for a year now, works great)
https://www.amazon.com/NEEWER-Microphone-Suspension-Scissor-Stand/dp/B00DY1F2CS/
This other Neewer one looks to be about the same model but also comes with a pop filter
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Microphone-Suspension-Mounting-Windscreen/dp/B01GRMF5ZE/
>What's the pros towards a mic arm over a tripod.
Placement really is the main benefit.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Microphone-Suspension-Mounting-Windscreen/dp/B01GRMF5ZE&ved=2ahUKEwiRusTc0vXhAhVihuAKHQtWAs8QFjAAegQIBBAC&usg=AOvVaw0crS2mpo5TARxu7OpEDcaF
I bought this one back in 2017. Works fine. Don't remember how I set it up but one of the question answers on the Amazon page describes it. Worked fine for me!
TL;WR: I don't know how to do that, but if you'll indulge me...
First of all, my professional opinion would be for you to sell the headphones and just buy good stereo ones, since surround sound doesn't work when every speaker only plays for one ear. It's absolute snake oil. I'd also say you should avoid USB headphones, partly for these kinds of reasons.
What's happening when you use USB headphones is that the signal in that cable is digital, ones and zeros, a speaker can't play that, it needs to be converted to analog. In a USB headphone this usually happens using a DAC (Digital-Analog Converter) built into the headphones. These are almost never particularly good, especially not when they have to push 7 channels of audio and still be light enough to hang off your head.
Issue here is that W10, generally speaking, can only output through one DAC per program. And if you're legitimately pushing surround sound to your headphones, then splitting that signal to another pair of stereo headphones is going to be even more trouble, since you've got 7 channels and he's got 2.
The natural solution would be a virtual aggregate device, playing one signal through two DACs, but as far as I know it's impossible to create aggregate devices on Windows on a system level. As far as I see it, you've got two options: Either go back to the way you did it before, or sell those headphones and spend the money on a decent entry-level DAC and some good stereo headphones.
Sorry if this wasn't of much help. I seriously do want to help, because I was annoyed with the same problem before, when I was stuck with my old Mad Catz headphones, so if you have any questions or thoughts, throw them at me.
Presonus Audiobox: https://www.amazon.com/PreSonus-AudioBox-USB-Recording-System/dp/B071W6YVDR/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=CGBVALN17BA9&keywords=presonus+interface&qid=1562877742&s=gateway&sprefix=presonus+inter%2Caps%2C304&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
Focusrite Scarlett: https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B07QR6Z1JB/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=focusrite+interface&qid=1562877780&s=gateway&sr=8-5
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QR6Z1JB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_gsUWDbZR2Z836
personally i'd probably go with a scarlett solo or 202hd amp and a e835 or sm58 mic around that price point; i'm a bit of a dynamic mic fanboy though
Ok.
If you want to pursue good audio I recommended the PreSonus Eris 3.5, they are good budget studio monitors. For headphones, I would recommend the Beyerdynamic DT 990 Pro 250 Ohm version. These are very good headphones for the price. Then I would pair the Beyerdynamic headphones with a good Audio Interface like Focusrite Scarlett Solo (3rd Gen) it's a good budget audio interface that doesn't break the bank. For a microphone, a Blue Yeti USB mic will do well. However, if you want an XLR microphone, which is better btw. A well-rounded XLR microphone is the Audio-Tecnica AT2020.
Technically, "active" means it has it's own amplifiers in each speaker with active crossovers. For example, those Rokits are "bi-amped" with a separate amp for each tweeter and driver. People now commonly misuse the term active monitor synonymously with powered monitors that do not have active crossovers with bi-amped speakers. But it has never meant it has a built-in DAC.
Those speakers may be fine without any external DAC. If you find you hear noise, then you would want to get an external USB interface with DAC, such as one of the following so you can run a balanced connection. But you may not need it.
https://www.amazon.com/BEHRINGER-Audio-Interface-1-Channel-UM2/dp/B00EK1OTZC/r
https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B07QR6Z1JB/
This is the best answer.
By connecting the drumset to the interface directly via a midi cable, you won't gain much of anything... you might as well keep it plugged in directly to your computer via USB (that's what I do). I also use AD2 so have a lot of experience with it.
What the audio interface does is act as a dedicated sound card, so your biggest gain with the audio interface would be to change your AD2 settings to use that audio interface as the sound output instead of your built in sound from your laptop. Then you either plug your headphones or speakers into the interface for audio. This is where your biggest gains in both latency and sound quality will come from. Your internal sound card is okay, but a dedicated audio interface should make a noticeable difference.
I personally recommend the Focusrite Scarlett 3rd gen. I had a Behringer which works fine, but the Scarlett had better sound quality. I would recommend the Solo for your uses: https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B07QR6Z1JB
Plus that interface doesn't require a separate power supply, it's powered entirely through USB which isn't true for all of them.
So in the end you should have 2 USB connections to your laptop (one to your drum set and one to the interface) and one audio connection to the interface (either headphones or speakers).
looks like a Focusrite Scarlet Solo. I went with a cheaper option with my 2020 and wish i went with the Scarlet
https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-SCARLETT-SOLO-3RD-GEN-USB-Audio-Interface/dp/B07QR6Z1JB/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2TX89XGLLM8CB&keywords=focusrite%2Bscarlett%2Bsolo&qid=1574624148&sprefix=focusrite%2Caps%2C163&sr=8-2&th=1
You don't need an XLR connection.
A new 3rd Gen Scarlett Solo costs only about $10 more than the interface you have. It has balanced TRS outputs, and those will connect to your HS5 monitors through TRS 1/4-inch cables.
This is the boom arm and pop filter that I purchased, works like a charm for beginners like us - https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Microphone-Suspension-Mounting-Windscreen/dp/B01GRMF5ZE
Sure thing bro! [https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Microphone-Suspension-Mounting-Windscreen/dp/B01GRMF5ZE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511149557&sr=8-2&keywords=neewer+mic+arm&dpID=41IzcBiQ9jL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch] (Mic Arm)
[https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Yeti-USB-Microphone-Silver/dp/B002VA464S] (Blue Yeti)
Foamily 12 Pack- Acoustic Panels Studio Foam Wedges 1" X 12" X 12" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010GPFRUQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dZYUCbNJGHNFN
I have my air conditioner on only about 2 feet away from the computer and other random noises. Change the sensitivity to about 15 in windows. You'll need to have the mic nice and close to you, but the ambient noise will pretty much disappear.
Give this product a go!
Neewer Mic Suspension Boom
You'll also need an ADAPTER
In that case, you could try acoustic foam panels like they'd use in a sound studio.
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Acoustic-Panels-Studio-Wedges/dp/B010GPFRUQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr2_1?keywords=sound+proofing+membrane&qid=1574835244&sprefix=sound+proofing+membrsne&sr=8-1-fkmr2
These would need to be on roommates side though, as to dampen the noise generated from their side of the wall.
If it were me, I'd just put them on both sides of those doors, then put up a tapestry of your liking if you don't like the look. They do make different colors though, it could be a cool accent wall, purple, red, etc. Just Adhere them with something removal for when you decide to leave.
I still vote for adding a shelf at some point! Always need more space for stuff, haha!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010GPFRUQ/
Economies of scale. Everyone uses these not just homelab users so they're cheaper.
At $110 I have no problem getting one of the nice ones for my shop(oscilloscopes tend to be sensitive) and HTPC setup.
Edit: They even have cheaper ones down at $58 with good reviews.
I actually have an empress echosystem. Maybe that helps in someway? Is this the furman thing you are talking ab? I’d just replace my regular surge protector with it?
Furman M-8X2 Merit Series 8 Outlet Power Conditioner and Surge Protector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BQ91Y6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jhsDAbMH0ZY71
I recall someone on buildapc had a similar issue before. Their solution was to get a power conditioner... something like this or this may fix the issue.
They're commonly used for audio equipment where audible noise can result from dirty power.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWNYGUS/ - Adjustable clamp-jaw mount for cameras like the Logitech C920/922 (the most recommended cameras). Get a better or more unique angle.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ACFAULC/ - Pop filters help a lot with audio quality.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017WNJS3M/ - Green screen it up and you can do all sorts of wacky or cool stuff, or it just cleans up the presentation of the stream in general.
https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Stream-Deck-Mini-Customizable/dp/B07DYRS1WH - The streamdeck mini just came out, pretty useful for doing goofy on-demand stuff with programmable buttons. Some people swear by these.
For higher end stuff for audio, put this stuff in a wish list if he does start to take off:
https://www.amazon.com/Shure-SM7B-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002E4Z8M - Probably my most recommended mic for people wanting to get into the more serious stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/dbx-286s-Microphone-Preamp-Processor/dp/B004LWH79A - Probably the best entry level audiophile grade mic preamp. This is endgame for streamers personally, it's way beyond what most people have and it will give him an edge.
https://www.amazon.com/Cloud-Microphones-CL-1-Cloudlifter-1-channel/dp/B004MQSV04 - Cloudlifter CL-1. This is a must if you ahve a Shure SM7B, excellent high end filter that will absolutely remove all noise.
https://www.amazon.com/Furman-M-8X2-Outlet-Conditioner-Protector/dp/B003BQ91Y6/ - Further eliminates noise from dirty power. Everyone who wants a decent XLR high-end setup wants something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Allen-Heath-ZEDi-10FX-Compact-Interface/dp/B01ATAK5MS - This is an excellent mixer+audio interface combo, if you are going XLR you'll want a mixer. It's 4x4 USB, which for the price is a great value, and it's preamps and lines are notoriously silent. I bought the last version of this which was a 4x2 interface on a great sale, and couldn't be more pleased.
There's a lot more you can get of course. A simple small table rack to rack mount these things... But it all depends, the sky is the limit with this stuff. Just giving you ideas of how you can go nuts with it.
But at the core of it, if he's not organically growing by being consistent and working hard at it and trying to improve... Maybe he's just not entertaining enough? It is what it is. Don't think that buying this stuff really makes any difference, it only does if you are already able to gain viewers in the first place.
http://www.amazon.com/Furman-Series-Outlet-Conditioner-Protector/dp/B003BQ91Y6/
Does this look about right?
Furman is a popular brand. Buy the most expensive one you're willing to pay for that has good ratings. I own a really basic rack mount one and it works great. The M-8X2.
A power conditioner is arguably the most important thing in your signal chain. It will eliminate all line noise and and it also provides surge protection. No more pops or clicks turning things on and off. No more random noise in your mixer from questionable outlets at old venues. Piece of mind knowing your thousands of dollars of gear are protected.
I have a weird pulsing "chirp" tone coming through almost any audio device, also through my PC power supply. Its definitely coming from the mains power in my house. Will this power conditioner "clean" my power and remove this pulsing chirp?
I was thinking about getting this and adding it to my rack: https://www.amazon.com/Furman-M-8X2-Outlet-Conditioner-Protector/dp/B003BQ91Y6/
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That way I can turn everything off in one place.
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They have one that's more like a power strip too.
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Furman M-8X2
Not the fanciest, but I needed something reliable and solid.
That's the idea. I have them connected to a MBP, through a Yamaha 6-channel board, over XLR connections. I'm pretty happy both with their clarity and their sound output (90dBA output SPL per the specs - sounds about right). I do have them running through one of these however.
If you're looking for a ton of bass, you won't find it here without buying a separate sub (although they may surprise you for being 5" woofers). Otherwise their 8" pair should fit the bill pretty well, but they will cost twice as much for the pair.
I took a course in college that surveyed types of music careers. You might be interested in the textbook we used https://www.amazon.com/Self-Promoting-Musician-Strategies-Independent-Success/dp/0876391390
If you're looking to start a career in music it's important to understand how to market your content to people and how to find your audience. A lot of musicians think the best thing to do is to just keep practicing and improving their musical knowledge. You obviously need to know how to use a DAW if you want to compete in the industry and learning theory would definitely help. But investing time in building your image on social media will help immensely. Also, if you're looking for a free DAW I know Pro Tools First is free. It allows you to create up to 16 tracks which should be enough for your early career. If you're looking for recording equipment here's a list of stuff I've been using:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5QDQOF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZZCR6P4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CZ0R3S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WVFRW4H/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CLIPHO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you're looking for tutorials on Pro Tools and Sibelius my professor has some on his channel https://www.youtube.com/user/dtoddsorensen/videos
I hope this helps
Sorry for taking my time /u/AliceWolff as you.. can see I did spend a lot of time on this.
Okay, after all the information I managed to gather from you. I managed to get a pretty extreme PC without going "over the top".
I will provide you with a rationale for each part.
As well as my standard list of videos to help you understand why I suggest these products.
Then I also include some great guides to help you build the PC.
Lastly, I will drop a lot of software to help you with overclocking.
---
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-5960X 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor | $1040.00 @ B&H
CPU Cooler | Enermax Liqmax II 240 96.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $89.99 @ Newegg
Radiator Fan | NoiseBlocker NB-ELoop B12-2 51.1 CFM 120mm Fan | $22.95 @ Amazon
Radiator Fan | NoiseBlocker NB-ELoop B12-2 51.1 CFM 120mm Fan | $22.95 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-X99P-SLI ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard | $249.99 @ Amazon
Memory | G.Skill NT Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $58.99 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill NT Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $58.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 950 PRO 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $181.00 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $149.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Toshiba X300 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $124.99 @ Micro Center
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB CLASSIFIED GAMING ACX 2.0+ Video Card (2-Way SLI) | $629.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB CLASSIFIED GAMING ACX 2.0+ Video Card (2-Way SLI) | $629.99 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case | $69.99 @ Newegg
Case Fan | Noctua NF-A14 PWM 82.5 CFM 140mm Fan | $21.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA 1050W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $139.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit) | $124.86 @ B&H
Monitor | Asus PG279Q ROG Swift 165Hz 27.0" Monitor | $799.00 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Corsair STRAFE RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard | $119.99 @ Best Buy
Mouse | Mionix Castor Wired Optical Mouse | $69.99 @ Amazon
Mouse Pad| Glorious XXL Extended | $24.00 @ Amazon
Headphones | Sennheiser HD 518 Headphones | $63.48 @ Amazon
Headphones | Sennheiser HD 518 Headphones | $63.48 @ Amazon
Headphones | Sennheiser HD 598 SE Headphones | $152.88 @ Amazon
Amplifier| Schiit Vali 2| $169.00 @ Schiit.com
DAC| Schiit Modi 2 Uber| $149.00 @ Schiit.com
Cable| Schiit RCA 6 inch| $27.00 @ Amazon
Audio| 4 way audio splitter| $31.00 @ Amazon
Microphone| Blue Yeti Pro| $199.00 @ Amazon
Microphone| Blue Radius II | $46.00 @ Amazon
Microphone| Blue Yeti Stand| $20.00 @ Amazon
Microphone| Double Layer Pop Filter| $7.00 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $5557.47
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-17 14:18 EDT-0400 | ♥
Yeti is sensitive and you can do a lot better at the price point.
Dynamic Microphones
For most gamers I'd recommend dynamic microphones since they pick up a lot less noise. Look into: XM8500, SM58, Beta 58.
Condenser Microphones
If you are set on a condenser microphone, be aware everyone is going to hear your keyboard, mouse, roommates etc. Avoid the Yeti. Look into: AT2020, MXL 770, Samson C02, LyxPro SDPC-2.
Mixers for Single Microphones
With any of the single microphones you'll be able to use the Xenyx 502, 1 RCA to 3.5 cable and 1 XLR cable.
Mixers for Microphone Pairs
With either of the stereo microphone pairs you'll need to use a mixer with more inputs OR go halves with a friend. You'd be able to use the Xenyx 802, 1 RCA to 3.5 cable and 2 XLR Cables, you are also going to want a stereo microphone bar
Accessories
Scissor Arm - $20 : You'll want a stand with any of the microphones listed, however if you'd prefer a stage style boom arm it would be the same price.
Pop Filter - $7 : You'll want one with any of the condenser microphones. However it would be a nice addition to any of the microphones.
Windscreen - $3 : You'll want one with any of the dynamic microphones.
--EDIT-- Let me know any questions you have. If you want to talk we could meet up on the discord server or something.
Welcome home! I have been using the Snowball for two years now and I think I have gotten the best quality that I could possibly get out of it. It is surprising how much the pop filter actually helps. Here are a few tips that can get you some good audio quality.
So the Yeti comes with its own desk stand. If you are looking for something that will stand on the floor, you'll want to get a floor stand with a boom. Like this perhaps: Amazon
The biggest problem with that stand though is that the Yeti is a fairly heavy mic, so the stand would be prone to tipping. If you can get a desk stand I used this one in the past, had a nice heavy base. and then got a little longer boom arm for it. Or just invest in a bag of rocks to hold the floor stand down.
As far as sensitive to bumps, there's not much you can do. Many shockmounts on the market will not fit the Yeti. You can get the Blue Ringer (nee Radius), a shock mount designed for the Yeti, and it's a bit overpriced (since they know very few fit the mic). But it works.
I have a Scarlett 2i4 audio interface for production duties.
For a slight bit over that £100 I'd recommend the Focusrite Scarlett 2i4.
Check on the earcup. It should say 250 pro if it's the 250ohm version.. the box could've just been a mistake, but the earcup decides all.
also because it's 250ohm, you'll need an amp to get the good stuff out of them. There are a ton of "budget" amps in that range, so here are a few that I recommend. Schiit Magni ,Objective 2 , and if you can spend the extra 50$get the Scarlet so you can get a good microphone input later down on in the line.
They are powered!
JBL LSR308 Amazon Link
Focusrite 2i4 Interface Amazon Link
2 X TRS cable Amazon Link
If you really want to spend the money and it's for a computer. Spend $800 on monitors and maybe $200 on a DAC that can give you balanced audio out. I've always been a fan of speakers over headphones though.
Edit: In fact, here you go.
2 of these and 1 of these.
I am currently using the Focusrite Scarlett 2i4 USB Audio Interface for my Rokit monitors. I see this 12 inch Klipsch sub-woofer is on sale from Amazon today and I'd like to add it to my setup but am unsure if I'll be able to connect it to my audio interface or if I'd have to purchase something else to get it hooked up. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I bought myself these:
Got to up my music gig.
you can get a cheap sound card and plug your sound from your controller into it, then route the sound to your computer through usb and out to your speakers with rca, you will get a far better recording than splitting the sound. Audacity and any other recording program will recognize pretty much any sound card immediatley. this one is only $25 CAD. I have this one bit more expensive but it works great.
Beaky is right, at that price you can find an interface with built in pre's. Way better.
120 shipped with prime refurb:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B005OZE9SA/ref=dp_olp_refurbished?ie=UTF8&condition=refurbished
Model up new shipped with prime for 138
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B009B15N0Q/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new
These act as offboard sound cards, headphone amps, dacs and can drive 2 xlr mics in stereo. Way better deal/upgrade overall. You could probably find em even cheaper, I just searched 'focusrite' on amazon. The focusrite scarlet series is fantastic for the price.
The Amazon Basics Video tripod (make sure it's the video one with the pan handle) is a good starting point, $23.49. You'll need some sort of iphone to tripod adapter too - they're available at price points from a few dollars to a few hundred dollars. No need to overspend if you're just starting out.
I'd recommend you keep that iphone on a tripod at all times - it's so small and light that hand-held footage will be shakey and offputting.
For lighting, assuming you're in a bedroom-sized space then a 3-point photography CFL lighting kit like this will be great. Nice, soft light which will make whatever you're reviewing look good. Cheap too - $46.99
Although I may be biased, I think sound is probably where most of those funds should go. People will happily watch 240p, grainy, blocky, blurry video on youtube but if they can't hear what you're saying then they're gonna switch off.
For piece-to-camera shooting I'd recommend getting a Rode Smartlav for $71.90. You can plug that straight into your iPhone for sync sound recording.
I'd also suggest getting a large-diaphragm microphone for voiceover work - i.e. whenever you're not filming yourself while talking at the same time. The Behringer C1-U is a great budget option that plugs directly into your computer's USB port for recording for $59.99. You'll need something to put it on such as a Suspension Boom ($17.99) and to make sure your audio is clean you'll need a pop filter. ($8.99)
So that's the very basics covered for $157.45 give or take though you can probably get that cheaper if you shop around. That leaves you $242.55 for some more specialist gear...
Depending on what you're reviewing, I'd recommend looking at lightboxes (5-walled cubes that you put the product in to give yourself a white background and even, soft lighting), and a motorized lazy susan (turntable) to give you some interesting options for b-roll.
If you're filming bigger stuff, then a white backdrop would work as well. You could go for something in optical green for chroma keying but keying is a pretty precise art and chances are if you're a total beginner it won't look that great until you really get the hang of it - so go for plain white first.
Chances are you'll still have some money left over after that too... iPhone footage is pretty damn good but you should start putting together a kitty for upgrading to a proper interchanagable lens camera.
They start around 10 bucks
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Studio-Microphone-Filter-Shield/dp/B00ACFAULC/ref=lp_11974601_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1485203140&sr=1-2
I bought this one off amazon.ca. Was delivered in a couple of days and works like a charm. I'd recommend getting a boom arm for your microphone like this one in order to be able to get it into a better location for recording. In the long run a shock mount like the Blue Ringer is also recommended to even further reduce background noise and interference from traffic, footsteps, etc.
physical. There are also ones that go directly over the mic head.
1. What is your budget?
My ideal spend is listed below. I can probably go to £450 / ~$560
2. What are you looking for?
I'm looking for a beginner-ish set up for use with my PC. This is what I've come up with so far and just wanted some input, see what I can change etc.
Component | Price
---|---
Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 | £124.00 / $154.99
Audio-Technica ATH-M50X | £128.00 / $159.93
Audio-Technica AT2020 | £89.99 / $112.48
Boom arm and pop shield | £17.98 / $22.49
Edifier R1000TCN 2.0 Bookshelf Speakers | £45.95 / $57.48
Total | £405.92 / $507.71
I'm looking for middle of the road but excellent quality gear. This list was compiled by research and reviews on the best bang for your buck components.
3. How will you typically be using the gear?
Speakers will be next to my monitor so ~arms length away.
4. What gear do you own?
Unfortunately I own a "gaming" headset. It was cheap at the time I purchased it and I never gave it a second thought but now I think is the time to upgrade to a proper set up.
5. What do you intend on using for a source?
The source will be my PC.
6. What material will you be using your gear for?
This will be typically used for every day gaming, streaming, and listening to music through streaming services. I usually wear headphones for very long periods so comfort and lightness are extremely necessary. The bookshelf speakers listed above are only cheap ones for this reason, as I listen through headphones the majority of the time. The music I listen to varies quite a bit depending on the mood, from djent and tech metal, to lounge and soft house.
edit: clarity
Looks like they are currently out of stock, but will be back in stock soon
TIL the correct term is "pop filter". You just buy one of these and mount it in front of the mic so it disperses the airflow when you make those sounds.
Hello!
I am personally using a mic with a cardiod option and I found I was getting a lot of echo as well. I'm in a carpeted room with my desk up against a wall.
After a bought a windscreen:
https://www.amazon.com/Windscreen-Audio-Technica-Other-Microphones/dp/B00I8XYTNK
and a pop filter:
http://www.guitarcenter.com/KM/Pop-Killer-Double-Layer-Pop-Filter.gc
I found that my audio quality was quite a bit better. My girlfriend and I started our channels close to the same time and she is using sound proofing foam on top as well:
https://www.amazon.com/2x12x12-BURGUNDY-CHARCOAL-Acoustic-Soundproofing/dp/B00ATP5KF6
After she started using the foam her audio sounds great. (I'll buy some one of these days)
If you're curious to see how the sound has changed in my videos let me know and I can send you a link to a video I made before I got the pop filter and windscreen and one after. Good luck!
It does look great for such a small space. I do have some suggestions to make it better.
First the mirror on the back wall will make the entire room light up when you're watching a movie. It might be better to cover that up or have some sort of shade you can pull over it.
Secondly I have a feeling there is quite a bit of acoustic issues with sound bouncing off the walls. It may not be a bad idea to invest into some acoustic panels that adhere to the wall. Maybe something similar to this: http://www.amazon.com/2x12x12-BURGUNDY-CHARCOAL-Acoustic-Soundproofing/dp/B00ATP5KF6
Overall nice use of the space!
That ?
I haven't seen 12" squares that cheap, so I'm curious if there's some quality difference between theirs and other products. This foam is around the price I'm used to seeing, but this also has groovy colors.
Ah, ok. Yeah, if your mother doesn't mind, put up a ton of this stuff. It'll definitely help out with the noise issue.
http://www.amazon.com/2x12x12-BURGUNDY-CHARCOAL-Acoustic-Soundproofing/dp/B00ATP5KF6
A condenser mic will not pick up less noise. I had a blue yeti condenser microphone and you could still easily hear my computer fans even though my computer was a good 8 feet away from my mic. Condenser microphones are super sensitive, as they're designed to pick up everything.
Look into getting a dynamic microphone.
Edit : on a side note, I watched your video and noticed your walls are pretty bare. A nice little way to lessen background sound is to add some sound dampening foam to hard surfaces (walls in this example). I can't personally say how much this will improve your audio, but possibly consider buying a small piece to put on the walls directly behind your computer.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ATP5KF6/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1422128151&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&dpPl=1&dpID=512fwYs-iUL&ref=plSrch
You can find these brands all over the world at your local musician / pro audio store or online retailer of your choice in your country.
These are the cheaper of the models - the pricier ones have more mic preamps and input channels along with sliding faders instead of rotary pots for gain.
You're probably looking for a dynamic microphone. There are plenty of them around, my two picks for good cheap ones are the atr2100 or the behringer ultravoice xm8500. The atr2100 is both USB and XLR, so it works with larger mixer setups through xlr and also works on its own through usb, and the latter xm8500 needs an interface to work, and works out to around the same price when you include something like a q502usb.
Are you talking about having a backing track on the computer, and then recording voice and mixing it to the backing track? Or just voice (like a podcast?)
Either way, I highly recommend a USB-mixer, like this one:
Behringer 502
I picked one up off Craigslist for $40 a few years ago. It's a great "swiss army mixer" that I use for little projects at home and on live-sound gigs.
Then start off with a solid vocal mic:
Shure SM48
or Behringer 8500
This will give you the option to easily upgrade the microphone in the future if you want to.
You'll also want a mic stand.
Audacity is awesome, and you can check out other options here:
http://www.homestudiocenter.com/best-free-audio-editor/
Ok well I won't explain everything in mine because it's a little over the top, but that's because I recorded music before I got into Twitch so I already had all my equipment. But what it essentially is a dynamic mic w/ XLR cable -> audio interface w/ USB cable -> computer. Here's the cheapest possible setup I could find on Amazon:
Shure PGA48 w/ 15' XLR cable: $40
Behringer Xenyx Q502USB: $60
Neewer Suspension Boom Stand: $14
total: $114
Do keep in mind that this mixer only has one pre-amp, meaning you'd only be able to plug one mic into it. If you wanted to plug in more than one mic (for instance if you have a friend coming over or something), you'd need a different mixer with more preamps. But yea my setup is essentially the above, just with more expensive stuff haha
If you wanna hear what my setup sounds like (getting a setup like the one above would get you a similar sound), here's a short highlight to see what it looks and sounds like (I chose this one to highlight the fact that you can move the mic around): https://www.twitch.tv/kvyngaming/v/106103644
Note how even when I grab the mic and move it, you barely hear anything. That'd never happen with a condenser mic.
I have been using 2 PCs for a while, I can PM you a video I made a while back if that helps.
You're old PC is very capable of handling streaming. You don't have to use a capture card, but it is what I am using at the moment. You can setup a rtmp server, I have a little success using it but decided to go back to using a capture card.
The capture card you choose should depend on what settings you want to run your game and stream at. The AV.IO 4k is what I am using right now, it lets me game at 1440p and downscale to 720p for my stream. You said you want to get an ultrawide monitor and this card can let capture that screen size. Not sure about OBS, but Xsplit will allow you to capture a portion of the screen so the rest of it won't be shown.
For sound I am using a channel mixer, with an XLR mic. You don't have to use a channel mixer. Depending on the capture card that you use you can capture the sound via HDMI, a channel mixer just offers more control.
There is a neat program called synergy that will let you use one set of m&kb for both computers.
If you use an Avermedia capture card you will have to use an extra program for OBS, at least this was the case when I still had one. Not sure about other capture cards but the Avermedia LGP has a headphone jack that will allow you to listen to your gaming computer, but not you streaming PC.
This is all I can remember right now, let me know if you need any more help.
Neither of those will work. They just switch from one input to another. It doesn't play all sources at once. What's your current PC setup?
Cheapest option is routing the audio into your PC and playing the audio there. There's tons of ways to do this. Depends on your budget really.
E: An example would be to get SPDIF dac like this into a mixer. Connect mixer to your computer via USB and mix it together.
Sounds like you really need an inexpensive USB mixer, something like the Behringer Xenyx Q802USB, or even the Q502USB. This will allow you to use more than one XLR microphone and port it into your computer via USB.
It would also allow you to do mix-minus with Skype calls — but I think a Zencaster account might work just as well, or even better.
You should consider picking up a Zoom or Tascam digital audio recorder as well, if only to have a redundant recording system. Ray Ortega has a great walkthrough on setting up mix-minus with a mixer: How to Setup a Mix Minus for Recording Skype.
These are amazing.
http://www.amazon.com/KRK-RP5G3-NA-Generation-Powered-Monitor/dp/B00FX7MMRO
First off, make sure you have a decent soundcard. My laptop's soundcard is balls so I use an external audio interface -the difference is huge. If your soundcard isn't up to snuff, look at grabbing something like this. You can get them used (or other versions) for cheaper, and they're a good utility to have around. You can also look for simple USB DAC (Digital to Analog Converter).
For speakers, if you want really good sound, look for powered speakers, they have built in amps to drive them so that you don't need to worry about an external amp hanging out on your desk. I use reference monitors, these have an excellent frequency range and soundstage that's hard to produce with a two-way desktop speaker otherwise. These are what I use currently, and you'd be hard pressed to find something cheaper that can produce the same sound. Also of note are the Rockit 5's at about the same price point. These are pretty future proof, if that's your thing. The next step up from a setup like this would be a sizable chunk of money more.
Of course, this is just my opinion, so take it with a grain of salt and all that. This focuses largely on clarity of sound, frequency range, and small footprint at this specific price range. There are certainly other setups that use subwoofers, forgo DACs, etc.
This setup will, at the very least, blow the Klipsch speakers you have listed out of the proverbial water, but the extra cost is there. If you have the money, I'd buy better speakers now, rather than upgrade in the future when you decide yours aren't doing it for you anymore.
I've used Kontakt for some film scoring (I've dabbled in short film scoring) for its great third party plugins. Lots of nice stuff dedicated strictly to different genres and styles of film.
I'd definitely recommend it although it's sort of in the mid price range, you do get what you pay for.
In my opinion I think you're best off upgrading your DAW. For film scoring in particular, ProTools is industry standard and it works wonders and has a plethora of beautiful utilities with a buttload of support for it.
In my experience Ableton Live has worked great too if you're a little tight on the wallet. So you could pick that up for quite a bit cheaper and is still very good.
Ableton's layout and workflow works great for me personally, especially when it comes to the automation timeline, it's extremely easy to sync up any of your cues / effects and you can have the video play on it's own time line within the program.
As far as monitors go you're one hundred percent going to want to invest in a decent pair. Using headphones in place of monitors for mixing isn't ideal especially if you're soundtracking someone else's work.
There are many monitors you can easily afford with your budget that will be considerably better, if you decide to go with Ableton.
So just in my opinion, with your $1000 or so you'd be best off going with:
Ableton Live 9
Standard edition for about $160
or Suite edition (comes with more effects/instruments and features but not entirely necessary as you can buy those down the road)
for $400
-------------------
Pair of half decent monitors, KRK or Yamaha have some that are in the 160 - 250 price range.
I've linked to a pair on Amazon that I used to use that I really liked that are on for $300
KRK Rokit 5 Gen 3 - http://www.amazon.com/KRK-RP5G3-NA-Generation-Powered-Monitor/dp/B00FX7MMRO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425278863&sr=8-1&keywords=krk+rokit
-----------------------------
If you opted for Ableton standard edition you should have some money left over to purchase Kontakt if you were still interested. Then pick up some third party plugins and samples along the way.
Hope that helps!
That is very very lean for a GOOD Audio system. Personally I don't like the typical computer (Logitech, Creative Audio, etc...) 2.1 speaker sets. If you want a good system get full sized bookshelf speakers like these -
Edifier R2000DB - Walnut - $250/pair -
https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R2000DB-Bluetooth-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B01CDU3IAI/
5" bass driver, very good power, Analog and Optical In, Bluetooth capability, and a Remote Control.
The are more basic, but good quality Studio Monitors that would fit your needs.
The KRK Rokit 5 are very popular, but $299/pr but with fewer features -
https://www.amazon.com/KRK-RP5G3-NA-Generation-Powered-Monitor/dp/B00FX7MMRO/
Mackie MR5 MKII are also considered good at $299/pr -
https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-MR5mk3-5-Inch-Powered-Monitors/dp/B00EUISUGE/
In this style of speaker you want at least 5" (130mm) bass driver. Some are available in 6.5" and 8". But that is our decision to make.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2pfwukoW2Y
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7zWz6kKm4s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uhvI5HKos0
I've been quite happy with my PreSonus Eris e4.5's, although I did get them for much less than the MSRP off of eBay. They provide a real good amount of bass for not having a sub. (makes my desk vibrate)
I'd like to link you to the ZReviews subreddit where he has a separate area going over his recommendations for the type of speakers you're looking for, but I think that's against the subreddit rules...
FYI, those speakers are on Amzon Prime Deal today.
For music production and mixing, studio monitors:
Home Audio separates instead of powered so you can upgrade one part at a time later:
£149, Q Acoustics 3020 £129, Mordaunt Short M10 £59.Home Audio Guides: Intro to home stereo systems • What is a Phono Preamp? | Audio Advice • Introduction to Audio Components • Zeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videos • r/audiophile Guide to Home Audio • AverageJoeAudiophile's Guides
Desktop Speaker Positioning: Get Those Speakers Off Your Desktop and Pitch-perfect Placement: How to Set Up Your Desktop Speakers.
Get a good cheap pair of bookshelf speakers (or smth more expensive) connect them to an amp and either use a splitter cable to plug it directly into mobo's integrated sound or use a usb dac (with rca cables). You will also have to spend some money on speaker wire to connect speakers to amp.
EDIT: another option is to skip amp part and get a pair of powered studio monitors.
they seem to have really good reviews on amazon
i'd say go for it, presonus makes some really nice gear in my experience. these seem to have all the qualifications of a nice entry level monitor, hell at this price im tempted to cop them to a/b with my JBL 305's
200 is a tight budget for powered, flat response speakers. Spending an extra 50-75 on the JBL LSR305's is almost certainly the best option but here are a couple that should be decent for under 200.....
https://www.amazon.com/PreSonus-Eris-E4-5-Powered-Monitors/dp/B00GP56OYA?tag=audiorumble-20&th=1
or
https://www.amazon.com/TASCAM-VL-S5-Professional-Monitor-Biamped/dp/B00UA55VHM/ref=sr_1_71?ie=UTF8&qid=1492545497&sr=8-71&keywords=powered+monitor+speakers
Yeah, better, you can also look at these if you are getting the UTurn with the Pluto pre-amp.
I've been with them since my first build and no complaints. In my rookie years I flashed the BIOS from Windows and bricked it. Of course flashback worked and fixed it. At work, I a crappy fan that shorted and blew the regulator on the board (literally put a hole in it) and the system still works - just not the fan header. So forgiving.
I'm not the biggest on the microphone side myself, however case fans are no good either but I think there could be ways to notch out the sound. How silent is your case? Another cool thing you may like are acoustic panels for your wall. They come in different verity to suit your taste. Also you have isolation shields and boxs but it's a little clunky. Cutting the wall reflections help.
Yeah true enough, you'd be surprised the things you hear coming across peoples mic's. Keyboard clack is the least of the worry.
Hey thanks for the response but I was talking about one of these. http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-602650-Microphone-Isolation-Shield/dp/B00GR9W1MS/ref=pd_sxp_grid_i_0_1/190-4693608-9042433
Do you have any opinion if it's worth an extra 90 dollars compared to homemade? I've read a lot of conflicting opinions about acoustic foam so I'm not sure.
No problem. I've had to deal with those issues before (though not being sandwiched between floors, haven't had that issue yet). The best thing to do here is to talk to your neighbors. They may not care, or if they do, at least you can give them your number and tell them they can come to you directly about the noise before involving property managers, police, etc.
I've considered a PVC "booth" as well. Also toyed with the idea of recreating one of these using the thick cardboard tubes they use for pouring concrete pillars. Never followed through though, but I think it's possible (I may actually need to make my own here soon for a non-metal project).
https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Microphone-Studio-Voice-Isolation/dp/B00G2KP10G Something similar to this, there's multiple styles. Another common style is
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Microphone-Isolation-Shield-Absorbing/dp/B00GR9W1MS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542597805&sr=8-3&keywords=isolation+booth
It depends on the size of the room, your vocal range, the materials the walls, floor, and ceiling are made of etc... Generally speaking, right behind the mic is the best place to position panels because early reflections bounce and generate even more destructive interference on the recording by generating secondary and tertiary reflections, if you have the budget, a reflection shield is likely a good place to start or if you have a closet with clothes in it, that can also be used to "dampen" reflections.
Example of a reflection shield: Reflection shield on Amazon
The sound cloud link will do, but, I'd recommend just recording a cover of something you like with backing if you can (You can buy backing tracks to a lot of tracks on iTunes)
Make sure not to get too close to your mic btw, the proximity effect can be really bad. 20-15cm or 6-8in is usually the sweet spot for a natural vocal sound in a cardioid large-diaphragm mic like yours.
Thanks for the advice!
I have a basement room so there is concrete behind the drywall. I have some parallel walls but I have lots of furniture to help bounce around the sound. The floor is carpet.
Walking around my room and clapping has a pretty consistent reverb all around. Nothing major but noticeable if you're listening for it.
Would something like this make a difference?
Would getting something like this: https://www.amazon.com/LyxPro-VRI-30-Portable-Absorbing-Recording/dp/B012OFI98I/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1504526699&sr=8-8&keywords=mic+isolation or this: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-602650-Microphone-Isolation-Shield/dp/B00GR9W1MS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504526699&sr=8-1&keywords=mic+isolation help to reduce echo or do those not do anything and are just placebo effects?
Tried using acoustic shields at all? I realize in many situations they can't be used (if you need to be able to see each other, for example, or if you are recording video and need your faces on-camera).
I used these bad boys for a few months. It was kinda embarrassing to use with co-hosts but you gotta pay your dues when you first start off:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GR9W1MS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Kind of a strange question, but I ust got into voice acting as a hobby, bought myself 24 1"x12"x12" soundproofing foam tiles, and I want to make myself a little portable box/ soundbooth situation. Problem is, I don't know how to make something semi-portable or what kind of material to use. I was thinking of something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GR9W1MS?keywords=portable%20vocal%20booth&qid=1451773427&ref_=sr_1_2&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-2
I use the vox amplug 2: https://www.amazon.com/AP2BS-amPlug-Guitar-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00NAUKJTY/
Its pretty good, has gain/tone settings, and has a built-in rhythm machine/metronome.
I picked up a used mint condition Ibanez SR500 after seeing it constantly recommended here.
I've been playing piano (poorly) for 30 years and always wanted to play bass.. so here we go.
My wife picked me up 2 books to start learning:
Hal Leonard Bass Method - Complete Edition: Books 1, 2 and 3 Bound Together in One Easy-to-Use Volume!
First 50 Songs You Should Play On Bass
I also picked up a Vox Bass headphone amp to practice while the kids are asleep.
Finally, my late grandfather played bass in many jazz bands, both electric and upright. My father still has all of his instruments. But I just inheirited his Polytone Brute Mini III amp.
So, I'm all set with equipment, now I just need to learn & practice!
I would like one of those Vox mini amp boxes:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAUKJTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_tWw9Bb945ZT9D
I don’t know all the tricks about amping a bass, but I use this and I love it! It’s perfect for my use in my apartment and I can bring it anywhere easily.
My brother gave me one of these for Christmas one year. Does exactly what you're looking for - you can put in headphones and use an aux cable with it and have your playing and audio from music coming through your headphones.
I am a new bass player, trying to learn more about the gear. I play with a passive ESP Bass through my Vox Headphone Amplifier for Bass Guitar with some old shitty Best Buy Sony head phones I got a couple years ago. I’m looking to get a bedroom practice amplifier with the hopes of one day both recording and playing in small bars with a thrash metal band.
I was thinking maybe the Fender Rumble Studio 40 am I looking in the right direction? This is just a hobby of mine I’m trying out, money isn’t really a concern, I just know I should most likely get a combo amp to practice in my room until I can work my way up and get something else.
https://www.amazon.ca/AP2BS-amPlug-Bass-Guitar-Headphone/dp/B00NAUKJTY
This is something on my wish list. Costs $50 on amazon prime
I'd recommend this instead, unless you need the extra outputs: http://www.amazon.com/AP2BS-amPlug-Bass-Guitar-Headphone/dp/B00NAUKJTY
Plugs straight into the bass so less cables and more portability (powered by 2x AAA), has a tone control, and even a built-in drum loop/metronome with its own volume/tempo control. The metronome tempo is controlled with the volume knob and there's no display so you can't really get a specific tempo, but it's certainly more functional than a regular headphone amp, and probably sounds better.
There's also these if you want to go a step further and put the amp into the headphones: http://www.amazon.com/VOX-AMPHONESBASS-Active-Amplifier-Headphones/dp/B009703PZG
Haven't tried them but the headphones are made by Audio Technica so they're probably decent.
A Vox Amplug may also be an option if you don't have any amps on hand, I have one myself and they're decent for the price, you plug it straight in and connect a set of headphones, or a speaker if you want
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NAUKJTY/
I'm looking at buying this for myself:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00NAUKJTY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1
The cheapest way would be this guy, but only if you have a line-level output on your computer... which I think most do.
The better option would be to get an audio interface like this, which connects over USB, and
A external sound card (audio interface) like such ;
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QHURLCW?aaxitk=uvWivV0TJ-U1M9WdqXhZsQ&pd_rd_i=B00QHURLCW&hsa_cr_id=3638016320001
There are tons on the market, just depends on what you looking for, there is a guy named Podcastage on youtube that gives a good break down on cost effective pro audio equipment.
The audio interface will help you manage your sound between your laptop and mixer more effectively, plus it could also help with any digital to analog problems.
Hope this helps
Wow, 25? Don't tell anybody in the music business :)
Seriously, I thought your video shows promise, the best thing you could do is pick up a cheap USB audio interface and a "large diaphragm condenser microphone" and some headphones. Set it all up, then practice without recording for a few ways to get used to the feel of singing with your audio feedback in the headphones. Once you a re comfortable, hit record..!
Here's some gear that would worthwhile to look into... adjust to your budget and taste.
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC204HD-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00QHURLCW/ref=sr_1_14?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1496707506&sr=1-14&keywords=usb+audio+interface
and pair it with either a microphone like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Nady-SCM-800-Diaphragm-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B000R4LQ4S/ref=sr_1_12?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1496707358&sr=1-12&keywords=condenser+microphone
or get a pair of large and regular condensers like this:
https://www.amazon.com/MXL-550-551R-Microphone-Ensemble/dp/B002LASBS0/ref=sr_1_11?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1496707358&sr=1-11&keywords=condenser+microphone
Those are just suggestions, check out this guy's channel, he's got some great tips!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZRnrA5GOx0
If you want to use it as MIDI keyboard, then connect it via USB and it should work. But if you want to record its audio, then better get an external audio interface. Something like https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC204HD-BEHRINGER/dp/B00QHURLCW/
Your condenser mic needs power, and it can receive power over a XLR/mic cable from a preamplifier with a 48v switch.
The preamplifier needs to be connected to an analog->digital and digital->analog conversion circuit to work with your digital computer.
The devices that handle preamplification AND D/A A/D conversions are called AUDIO INTERFACES. A cheap one: behringer ucm2
The Behringer U-Phoria UMC 204HD is a great one, I use it myself with my AT2020.
Another alternative is the 202HD which doesn't have MIDI ports but is cheaper. Depends what you need.
Acoustic panel on the walls or a mic isolation shield.
https://www.amazon.com/Pack--Acoustic-Panels-Studio-Wedges/dp/B010GPFRUQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1474411204&sr=1-3&keywords=sound+foam
There's plenty of tutorials online about proper placement but it's really a lot of trial and error if you're room has an unconventional layout like mine
edit: also bass traps man, bass traps
These aren't probably the best quality, but I was very impressed for $20
Link
I got two different colors and made it look fresh. At least take care of first order reflections, you'll be surprised by the results.
So would getting either of these make a significant difference?
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Acoustic-Panels-Studio-Wedges/dp/B010GPFRUQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541894161&sr=8-3&keywords=noise+foam
https://www.amazon.com/Microphone-Adjustable-Constructed-Industrial-High-Density/dp/B07BCKL4RS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1541894251&sr=8-4&keywords=isolation+shield
Sooo I just finished the entire rest of this post after an hour or so and looked back at your video and noticed something.. uuuhh you likely can fix your problem by placing your mic differently. If so, you can disregard all the other info below, and I wasted time, but hey, maybe you'll find it interesting regardless. (fml.. I actually enjoyed refreshing my memory on the subject though.)
So your mic is a cardioid mic, meaning it picks up sound from the front and sides. You want to have it facing towards you (your new arm will help with this) so you're speaking directly into the 'top', for the best effect. It could be that your mic is picking up more of the room because you have it facing the wrong direction. Also, it has an internal pop filter so you might get slightly clearer/crisper sound if you remove the foam filter you have on top, but maybe you've tried both already and liked this better which is fair!
Anyway, I hope this or the rest of the info here helps you out! Good luck.
here's an example of the proper placement - https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=95&v=S35OcGu2ULY
____
Hey man,
Just listened to some of your VODs, and while I don't think it's disturbing I can hear what you mean. The effect you have is reverberation. By the way, very good quality stream otherwise, even the sound quality is great otherwise because your mic is awesome! Threw you a follow (TingaTV here). :)
Anyway you for sure don't have to worry about your monitors, as your microphone doesn't pick up sound from that direction (it's frontal/side), and I highly doubt it would reflect noticeable sound anyway. The green screen could be doing something to the sound depending on placement and what material it is but it probably wouldn't make it worse, but I can't hear it for myself so hard to tell.
I found some good sources to look at:
https://www.gikacoustics.com/product-category/diffusion-products/
https://www.gikacoustics.com/basics-room-setup-acoustic-panels-bass-traps/
https://www.acousticsciences.com/solutions/reverberation - This site has a ton of information and a sidebar with more.
If I were you the way I would tackle it would be getting more furniture for the room to fill it in. That way you could make the room nicer to be in and at the same time basically 'treat' the acoustics organically. Doesn't even matter where you put things but essentially the more you have in a room, the less echo/reverb you experience. Then I'd hang a cheap thick(ish) cloth curtain about 2m wide on a wall, which would do a far better job of absorbing sound than foam panels and is simpler too. You can see that in that first link I shared too, and I've seen it in professional studios myself. The safest bet for where to place that would be the wall behind you. Also, a curtain like that alone might be enough to fix your issue.
If you hate the curtain idea you could try foam panels, but avoid these kinds https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Acoustic-Panels-Studio-Wedges/dp/B010GPFRUQ - these are the ones that I'd call scams, and referred to in my first reply, because they don't do what they say. To be clear the idea of them is based on good foundations, but you need far thicker foam to have any desirable effect unless your goal is to deaden very high frequencies, a very niche situation even in music studios.
To conclude I'd likely recommend for you to return the panels you got, although I don't know which you got. You could try them out and see if it does anything for you but obviously I don't have a very high opinion of them.
Probably. The line out from the TT is really low. It needs to be boosted before it goes into an amp. You can try running it without the preamp, but my guess is it will sound like ass and you will have to crank the hell out of it. Fortunately decent preamps are not bank breaking.
This is a good little guy:
http://www.amazon.com/Rolls-VP29-Phono-preamplifier/dp/B0002BG2R2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410473513&sr=8-1&keywords=rolls+preamp
So if you have that budget of 400 bones, its really what your goal is. 1200 - heavy, hearty, bulletproof, easy to change speeds. Pro Ject - a lot less bells and whistles, elegant, great cartridge.
If you want to manage 3-4 inputs, you will be better off getting an AVR. Accessories4less has really good prices and options.
An AVR will let you switch between multiple sources - whether they are HDMI video sources (gaming for example, or Roku) or digital audio sources, or analog audio sources. Besides this, an AVR will also amplify the signal, and also has an inbuilt DAC, so you can hook up passive speakers that are a lot less expensive than powered speakers. For example, you could hook it up to Pioneer BS22 bookshelf speakers for $130, or buy the FS52 floorstanders for $250 a pair (in which case you will not need a separate subwoofer)
Most entry level AVRs will not have a phono preamp. Assuming your TT does not have an inbuilt phono, you will likely need to buy a separate one. You can buy a Rolls VP29 for $50 from Amazon, or if you want to spend more, you could buy Schiit Mani or the Pro-Ject Phono Box - both sell for $130.
AVR plus speakers plus phono - you could still pull this off for under $500 and get decent sound quality. You can also look at used AVRs - they can often be had for half price or less (especially if they are slightly older - as AVRs are all about latest and greatest features - so now, AVRs that do not support 4k will sell for steep discounts). Look at usaudiomart for example.
This is the preamp I recently bought. It's pretty great, and not too bad of an entry level price. Rolls V29
Preamp suggestions please as I'm going insane over getting something crappy... >.>
Here are 2 that I've seen browsing the reddit:
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Microphono-Pp400-Ultra-Compact-Preamp/dp/B000H2BC4E/
https://www.amazon.com/rolls-VP29-Phono-Preamp/dp/B0002BG2R2
My powered speaker system has 3.5mm, so I was thinking of using an RCA to 3.5 (http://bit.ly/2rlrIw5 said I don't lose quality). Opinions on that setup?
Player -> Pre-Amp -> RCAto3.5 -> Powered Speakers
And which of the two preamps or other suggestions? Trying to stick under $75-100 and I'm not audiophile, but I definitely want it to be clear/no hum (as I've heard that in some Amazon reviews of preamps)
Also..Thank you for any help at all!! :)
https://smile.amazon.com/Micca-PB42X-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00NXAEPDC/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1521737076&sr=8-10&keywords=powered+speakers
plus
https://smile.amazon.com/rolls-VP29-Phono-Preamp/dp/B0002BG2R2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521737127&sr=8-3&keywords=rolls+preamp
This will get you by until you get the bug and want to start upgrading.
I suggest not getting built in preamp so you can upgrade later.
For 300 bucks personally I would go with decent Powered speakers. Make sure you pick up a phono preamp as well if you go this route as opposed to using an amp+passive speakers (which is much more expensive, unless you go used). That's the setup I did, minimalist, clean, decent value, but still relatively cheap. Here's my setup for example...
https://www.amazon.com/rolls-VP29-Phono-Preamp/dp/B0002BG2R2 - Rolls VP29 Phono Preamp
https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R1700BT-Bluetooth-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B016PATXSI - Edifier R1700BT Powered Speakers with Bluetooth - For the value these sound really awesome. Only downside is there are not great with lots of bass, they flubber. In retrospect I might have gotten something different, but most stuff I listen to isn't bass heavy so I'm not torn over it. I also wanted bluetooth in this room because it's a guest room.
https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Ject-Elemental-Gray-Turntable-Grey/dp/B01CZW826Y?th=1 - Pro-Ject Elemental Turntable - Great value turntable on the low-end if you buy new.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000513O4/ - Tripp Lite Isobar surge protector - Because I'm paranoid about this stuff and these are high end surge protectors that we use at work. They are bulletproof.
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So anyways... for 300 bucks you can pick up the same phono preamp and these...
https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R2000DB-Bluetooth-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B01CDU3IAI
I hear the R2000's don't have the same bass issue that the r1700 does, but they cost a lot more. Edifier is kind of one of the best in value right now, it's "Chi-Fi" good. The hardcore audiophile kiddos are often brand-whores, so take their allegiance with a grain of salt and try to remain objective, read reviews, technical analysis, etc..
https://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-A2-Powered-Speaker-System/
The A2's always get good reviews in this price range, I have no personal experience, but there are recent reviews that show problems with quality control, maybe the company is getting worse?
https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-2017-R-14PM-Powered-Monitor/dp/B075JRF295
A lot of people swear by the Klipsch powered monitors once you get into this price range, but I don't have any personal experience, maybe someone else can chime in, just showing it here because you might want to consider it, read about them more.
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-Signature-S20-Bookshelf/dp/B01LVWWXQG
These are just barely in the price range, definitely consider them, my friend has a Polk setup and he loves it. These seem to get good reviews from hip hop heads too, so the bass response must be good.
It really depend on your musical taste, the room, what kind of setup you are wanting to go with overall and for what purpose though. If you want to be able to handle everything, up the budget, or buy used honestly. If you stay on a small budget and buy new, you are going to have to have compromises. I was wiling to have that compromise, but others may not.
With that budget and a simple approach I'd recommend this: http://www.peachtreeaudio.com/nova-refurbished.html. The same focal speakers or bookshelves of your choosing. You would also need a phono preamp since the Nova lacks one. The Nova has a good DAC for connecting computers AppleTV etc.
Something like this is a starter phono pre: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002BG2R2/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1376533781&sr=8-2&pi=SL75
Well they have two different inputs. One is looking like the standard 1/4 jack and the other for mics. You will still need phono level amplification before the speakers (for reasons I don't fully understand, even modern turntable output is lower than the modern input standard on equipment like this and thus a preamp is need).
If you take a look at the Rolls VP29 that should do all the amplification you need with the correct 1/4 output.
Thank you for your reply. I had someone recommend hum x. Are you familiar with this? Is $80 complete overkill?
Might be a grounding issue. Try using a different outlet for the speakers and the computer.
I ended up needing to get a 'Hum X' to resolve a similar issue. http://www.amazon.com/Ebtech-Hum-Voltage-Filter/dp/B0002E4YI8
I have one more option for you. The Ebtech Hum-X may be able to solve the issue for you without compromising your audio quality. I have used them in the past with decent results. You would plug your PC into the Hum-X and then into your power strip. In my experience, they can help solve your issues. However, if your PC uses more than 720 watts, they will not work for you, as that is the max safe rating of the Hum-X. Which is why I suggested removing USB power first. The Hum-X is situational.
Link:
https://www.amazon.com/Ebtech-Hum-Voltage-Filter/dp/B0002E4YI8
DO NOT USE GROUND LIFTS AS YOU COULD POTENTIALLY DIE
use one of these instead.
http://www.amazon.com/Ebtech-Hum-Voltage-Filter/dp/B0002E4YI8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464034854&sr=8-1&keywords=ebtech+hum
this annoyed me so much. the way that i got around it with my laptop was to plug it into one of these
HUM X
Noise when no music is playing could be a sign of RF or grounding issues.
The "best" way to fix it? Probably an isolation transformer. You could pick up a "Hum exterminator" and see if that fixes the problem (not cheap) https://www.amazon.ca/Ebtech-Hum-X-Exterminator/dp/B0002E4YI8 Or for a temporary solution, use a ground lift plug (cheap, but never use this method as a permanent solution).
Of course the very best way to fix the problem would be rewire the building.
This is all speculation, you could just have a badly made audio chip (pretty common to) and an external interface could solve the problem as well. I would pick up a ground-lift/cheater plug (you can make one pretty easily) to test the issue (only good as a temporary fix). https://www.parts-express.com/eaton-419gy-ac-3-prong-ground-lift-grounding-plug-adapter-with-lug--110-211
*note these are not legal in many areas, consider them test equipment only and not a solution.
https://www.amazon.com/Ebtech-Hum-Voltage-Filter/dp/B0002E4YI8
Does not degrade audio.
If it doesn’t work, simply return it.
You can try this on the Denon.
Given your situation, I would recommend studio monitors. For under $1000 I'd recommend a pair of Yamaha HS5's with the matched HS8S sub. I have the older version of the HS5's (HS50M) and they are fantastic for audio production, and work very well for music listening too. The HS5's have a pretty flat frequency response, so this is very helpful in production. I've had mine for 12 years and they are still working great.
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/HS5
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/HS8S
As a side note, you won't wear out a speaker by doing production vs music listening, it's all the same to the speaker. I don't have any specific DAC recommendations, but I would lean towards a good USB DAC that has ground loop isolation in it. That is the only thing I needed to get for mine as I was getting bus noise from the computer. However, if you end up with that problem, get a ground loop isolator like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ebtech-Hum-Voltage-Filter/dp/B0002E4YI8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499097291&sr=8-1&keywords=hum-x
An Ebtech Hum X fixed this for me. A UPS alone did not fix it for me. The Hum X sits in line on my UPS power cable. Computer is plugged into UPS obviously. The UPS doesn't draw high peak power from the wall, so it never exceeds the Hum X's power rating. They are a little pricey at $80, but it's the only thing that worked for me when every mouse movement seemed to be causing humming and buzzing.
This is designed to solve that problem: http://www.amazon.com/Ebtech-Hum-Voltage-Filter/dp/B0002E4YI8
I've been having a similar problem. Some research lead me to 'ground loops'. It can be a static-y hum often times. Try a Ground Loop Isolator of some kind. I have xlr and this sorta worked for me. A cheap way to test an otherwise expensive issue. If you're not using xlr, you can try more common methods for cars. There's also cutting it off at the source by using an ac jack isolator. Or if you can't afford that, try using noise reduction plug ins from other DAWs. I use isotope to remove my noise now. It's pricey, sure, but it's 10000% worth its price. A beautiful piece of software that's perfect for my processing when I'm not using Reaper or Audacity.
It's not ideal. I did it few times at gigs when I was running 2 amps and I just couldn't get the ground loop problem solved any other way. [This] (https://www.amazon.com/Ebtech-Hum-Voltage-Filter/dp/B0002E4YI8/ref=sxts_k2p_hero1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=2668835622&pd_rd_wg=ieuqc&pf_rd_r=9HYDAPE4TY1JJJJB31M9&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B0002E4YI8&pd_rd_w=QsMwP&pf_rd_i=hum+eliminator&pd_rd_r=JSCNBDPXB5NB2RH38181&ie=UTF8&qid=1479088848&sr=1) is a better solution, but it's not as cheap as ground lifting. But with the Ebtech you know you won't get shocked.
Have you tried unplugging things around your house while your Blues Jr. is humming? The house I'm in now gave me a similar problem when ever I plugged my pedal board power supply in. No hum with the guitar plugged directly into the amp. But as soon as I plugged in my pedalboard (even with all the pedals turned off) the hum would come back. My buddy told me it wasn't my pedalboard, it was something else in the house. So, I started unplugging things all over the house. At the other end of my house, probably 50 feet from my practice room, I unplugged my computer speakers and the noise vanished. Those powered computer speakers were screwing up my house wiring somehow.
Good luck tracking it down.
For the love of god, do not buy a Blue mic. I don't know how they got a reputation for making good mics. I think they are terrible.
The best cheap mic I've heard is the BEHRINGER ULTRAVOICE XM1800S (affiliate link). But, it comes in a pack of three for $40. Could work if you can find friends to split with. Still all three are cheaper than the ATR2100 (which is in fact an amazing mic).
There was a booth at Podcast Movement in which I was able to test about a dozen different mics. If you want to listen, it's up on my Dropbox here. The Behringer is the first mic on this test. You can even listen to how much background noise the Blue Yeti picks up. Awful, awful mic in my opinion.
EDIT: Just noticed there's also a Behringer Ultravoice Xm8500 (affiliate link), that goes for $20 for one. I would suspect (and the Amazon ratings suggest) it's as good as the three-for-$40 model.
EDIT EDIT: Also just realized the ones I listed above are XLR. You'd need an XLR to USB cable, about $10.
Looks like I replied to the wrong person originally. Here are a couple of links:
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/XM1800S--behringer-xm1800s-dynamic-vocal-instrument-microphones-3-pack
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Ultravoice-XM1800S-Instrument-Microphones/dp/B000NJ2TIE
Like /u/roobyroobyroooooo mentioned, stands/arms are very helpful (I recently did an "away" episode where everyone held the mics, and I had to spend so much time editing the handling noises out of the show), and I got extra foam covers for them to help with plosives.
But that aside, I'm pleased with the sound quality for $14 mics.
So, I don't know the most technical differences, but I can tell you the major difference between Condenser and Dynamic.
Condenser mics are going to pick up a lot of ambient noise. You'll probably see these in a recording studio, and they work well in that setting because studios are designed to incorporate them. Some condenser mics require phantom power to power them, the Blue lineup does not as they are powered by the computer.
Dynamic mics are going to be more focused, picking up the sound directly in front of them. I prefer the Dynamic, as I think you can get a better, more isolated sound. Especially if your recording space isn't ideal or acoustically treated.
The Blue Microphones (Snowball and Yeti) are condenser mics. So, if you're using a Yeti, you're going to be picking up a lot of the noise in the room, and outside the room (and even the building, depending on your recording space). So, if you have animals, roomates, Air Conditioning, fans, any little thing that makes noise, it will be picked up.
We used to record with a Blue Snowball, and while it's nice for capturing the sound of multiple hosts, the cons outweigh the pros.
Now, if you're able to treat the space with either acoustic foam, or even something as simple as hanging blankets up, and putting some on the floor if you don't have carpet, this will help your acoustics.
Or, if you're a one-person show, you can record in a closet, as well Just be mindful of any ambient noises you might not think of.
However, depending on how many people you're planning on having, here's the setup I recommend, for your price range:
And there you go. For about $150, you'll have a decent starter setup which will capture a good sound right away.
Unfortunately, $300 for a 4 person set up is going to be hard to make work well since you're basically starting from scratch. That's not to say it can't be done. Unfortunately, I'm going to give recommendations based on what I know is cheaper from a reputable name and hope none of these are right out terrible.
Behringer Q1202USB 12-Channel Mixer. 4 mic inputs, USB connection, $100.
Behringer Ultravoice Xm8500 Dynamic Vocal Microphone, Cardioid 4 at $20 for $80. Alternatively, BEHRINGER ULTRAVOICE XM1800S is a pack with 3 mics for $40, with one from the last link, gets you 4 mics for $60.
Cable Matters 2-Pack Microphone Cable (Mic Cable/XLR to XLR Cable) 6 Feet 2 packs of 2 at $15 for $30.
NEEWER Adjustable Microphone Suspension Boom Scissor Arm Stand 4 at $12 for $50. Alternatively AmazonBasics Tripod Boom Microphone Stand if a desk mounted stand is not ideal or possible, 4 at $20 for $80
I'm also not sure the diameter of those mics but I recommend whichever one of these fits. On Stage MY325 Dynamic Shock Mount Microphone Clip or On Stage MY330 Wireless Shock Mount Microphone Clip both about $10, so $40 for 4.
Depending on what compromises you're willing to make, this is a pretty budget 4 person set up at $280-$330, and I'd recommend saving the last $100 or so you need for it.
For $40 you cannot beat these. Assuming you are looking for XLR. I do not use a pop filter, but did buy a bunch of cheap windscreens and they do very well
​
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Ultravoice-XM1800S-Instrument-Microphones/dp/B000NJ2TIE/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2MOGOWFPPPW15&keywords=behringer+1800s&qid=1557161208&s=gateway&sprefix=behringer+1800%2Caps%2C116&sr=8-1
It would... work. But not well. Remember that you're working with a pure-audio medium, so sounding good is almost as important as having good content. If you have to use this setup, here are a few issues you'll run into-
Here's what I'd recommend instead:
Behringer XM1800s 3-pack - the products most often purchased together will run you about $55 (less than a Blue Snowball), and includes a 5-pack of windscreens, and 1 10-foot XLR cable. Personally I would replace that with 2 of the 6-foot versions- I use that exact cable with an AT2020 and for the price it's excellent. By shopping for a good deal you can spend less- buying used or on sale or even from a fellow podcaster who has moved up to more serious gear can help you out there.
To get those sweet vocal tones from the mic to the computer, you'll need an interface. I use an Audio Technica AT2020 run through a Scarlet Solo, but it's just me, and their 2-mic version is excessive for what it brings to the table. Consider the Behringer Xenyx Q802USB interface. The mixer.controls will help you dial in your audio, reducing editing time/effort and reliance on Audacity.
Now, I'm well aware that that is basically double the budget that you have in mind. I don't enjoy giving you that news, but- and this is important- spending ~$130 isn't that big a deal over the long term, and if you wind up taking this more seriously it will give you a massive advantage right out of the gate, and will make the process of recording so much easier, leaving you more time and energy to focus on content and enjoying the process. Because, let's be honest, that's what you start a podcast for; enjoyment. With the mics I recommended, a mic stand isn't crucial right out of the gate, but even if you really just want stands, getting a cheap boom or scissor is totally doable for $30 or less.
Get some dynamic mics there's a 3 pack of behringers for 40$that sounds just fine. Your probably using an omnidirectional condenser. Your gonna want some dynamic mics and you'll be good to go. I used to have the same issue. You have to eat the mic but you will have zero bleeding. These are my favourite super cheapos
BEHRINGER ULTRAVOICE XM1800S https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NJ2TIE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nuGNAbXRX5EST
Lightworks is the place to go for editing, if you don't mind the learning curve, though for simpler things, you can mix the audio using audacity and cut it together in Avidemux
For microphones, I typically use some fairly simple vocal microphones particularly these or a pocket recorder like this one and get pretty good sound out of them. It's also worth noting that this microphone is often recommended for beginners in Let's Plays and podcasts alike and might be more your speed.
A built-in pop filter is probably not recommended. For the vocal microphones you can pick up some pretty cheap pop filters or position them slightly to the side (though still pointing at your mouth). For pocket recorders and the Blue Snowball, it's a non-issue, as you're not speaking right up on it.
I bought this three pack of mics for my podcast and they sound great. Super great deal.
Make sure to put your final bounced .wav through a program like Levelator and you're set.
The type of headsets you want are called broadcast headsets and NOT chat headsets. These broadcast headsets are used by sports broadcasters at events to minimize background noise and maximize voice fullness and clarity. The BPHS-1 is the cheapest one I've found.
I'd highly caution against sharing microphones. I'd much rather see you go with a cheaper microphone per person like the Behringer XM1800s than share a microphone.
The other issue I'd caution against is hand-holding the microphone. You'd be much better off having a floor stand that is not connected to the table to eliminate table bumps and noises.
Sweetwater.com sometimes runs a 2 for 1 sale for the Blue Encore 100. It's a great microphone at $100 and if you can get it for $50 on the 2 for 1 deal it's a steal. But it is also terrible for handling noise.
You need to look for a mini audio mixer. This is a powered device that can mix different audio inputs to a singe output.
First plug the audio outputs from your motherboard and console into the mixer's inputs. (You might need some adapters/male to male 3.5mm audio cables for this.)
Next, you'll need to use the cable with the 2 leads included with your headset. Plug the audio input into the output of the mixer and the microphone output into possibly an extension cable and into your motherboard's mic input.
Or the ghetto cheap way would just be buying a cheap pair of ear plug earphones and using one of them for your chat audio while wearing the headset.
EDIT: Something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/rolls-MX44S-Mini-Mix-Mixer/dp/B00102VV46).
It works, but it isn't technically correct. The audio doesn't know which direction to go, so some of the signal coming out of your computer gets fed into the Echo, and some of the signal coming out of the Echo gets fed into your computer. This could cause damage to either of the devices.
However, I've NEVER heard of anyone suffering damage.
Still, the correct answer is the one at the top: You need a mixer. As a bonus, when you add a mixer, you get the ability to set the levels on each separately. A simple passive mixer like this one will work, but you will get significant losses, and would have to turn up the volume on both the Dot and your PC, with the loss in quality that comes with that. There are, however, powered mixers that also amplify the signal. I am using this one on my desk, and I am very happy with it.
Neither of them is all that cheap, though. :(
Audio builders of the world: I think there's a market for a cheap stereo 1/8" 2 channel mixer!!
This is a cheap version of a mixer I own -- it's nice for your use since it accepts both sizes of headphone jacks. This is what I use -- more expensive, but powered to the point of not needing a headphone amp.
If you go with this mixer instead of the Fiio, then it will have plenty of oomph to amplify the pickup into headphones. It will also take an additional stereo mic, if you want to have more sound-isolating headphones and yet still hear the rest of the ensemble.
Be aware that it is really easy to turn headphones up to dangerous sound levels without being conscious that you are doing so.
I know a bunch of musicians at the highest level who play with either foam earplugs or have had an audiologist take a mold to make custom musicians' earplugs.
I also think you will be much much happier in the long run if you choose a better pickup such as the Fishman.
I've been looking for some really nice mixers (2+ input to 1 output) and haven't really found anything besides this and it doesn't seem to be extremely high quality (I have one).
Yeah it is total BS that there aren't better options for a portable battery powered mixer. Though there is http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00102VV46/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1414391107&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40 which seems like the best option really. It isn't really available here in the UK though...
There's also something like the Zoom H4N with two line inputs but it's just two line inputs and seems a bit overkill to get it just to mic signals.
If the SM57 is out of your budget, I can recommend the GLS Audio ES 57. It doesn't claim to be a direct clone, but it's basically the same type of mic. Has good reviews on Amazon.
Nope, it would absolutely be perfect. Get a Scarlett 2i2 to start you off with a really nice, but basic set-up.
You can gradually move on from there.
Even just buying a second microphone, like a dynamic mic for other applications (plug for a SM57 clone) would make your versitility unbeatable on a budget.
You will learn a ton, and achieve pretty great sound if you work hard.
Shure SM57s for snare and toms.
Shure Beta 52a for the kick.
Shure sells a pack of 3 SM57s and a Beta 52a with case and mounts at a great price: Shure DMK57-52 Drum Microphone Kit
If you are on a tighter budget, GSL makes a great 57 clone at a much better price: [ES-57]
(http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001W99HE8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2V28EB8MDJ41G&coliid=I2JVKE3SMLZA6O)
For overheads you are going to want the best condenser mics you can afford. I use and recommend Shure KSM32s. If those are outside of your budget, there are a lot of good suggestions in this thread on gearslutz.
The sound you get is going to depend much more on how you tune your drums and place your mics, and the room you record in, and less on the mics you use (although it will affect it somewhat).
To me it seems you have plenty to record a drum kit. For cheap mics to add to your setup I would look at 12 Gauge Microphones for some SDC's for your hihat or even toms. If you want dirt cheap dynamics you can get ripoff SM57's that don't sound too bad, the ES57.
As for your kick sound perhaps using the AT3035 as a distant mic for the bass drum. Maybe even a drum tunnel.
GLS ES-57s. Essentially the same frequency response as the SM57 (the difference could be attributed to the grille, slight changes in the body), to my ears sounds nearly precisely the same. It's got a bit more of a high mid boost but I like that about it. This was one of the best investments I've ever made.
Those would be your tom and snare mics. 4-5 of these and you'll be good.
Not sure what your budget is, but the MXL SP-1 is pretty well regarded for their sound as overheads. Overheads are the mics you put on stands over the drum kit to, primarily, pick up the cymbals, but they pick up the rest of the kit as well.
As far as kick mics go, if you're low budget, my thinking is to just go really low budget and replace your kicks. It's not difficult to get a good drum sound out of low-end kick mics, but your budget may not allow what I consider the minimum. If you can swing it, I suggest picking up a Nady RSM-4 for the resonant side of the kick, and any arbitrary dynamic mic for the beater side of the kick. That way you can get the attack of the beater with the dynamic, and the thump of the kick with the ribbon. If you can't, or do not want, to swing for a ribbon, any typical kick mic would do, but in my experience a better sound could be got from just replacing your kicks by triggering with your beater side mic.
I'd be happy to answer any specific questions you've got about drum miking. I'm not good at just talking.
The GLS audio mics are really good Shure SM57 and SM58 clones. I've A/B tested them and the GLS ones have a flatter frequency response higher and lower than the Shures. The quality of the audio is nearly indistinguishable in the ranges where they have similar frequency response. That will save a huge portion of your budget for other gear (get a better preamp sooner). http://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Instrument-Microphone-ES-57/dp/B001W99HE8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373061154&sr=8-1&keywords=gls
EDIT: the Shure mics roll off more dramatically in higher and lower frequencies. You can mimic this sound (if you want it) by just rolling off higher and lower EQ frequencies. I've bought several Shure SM57s and a Shure SM58 and since I've discovered the GLS mics, I'll never buy another Shure mic. The build quality and sound quality of the GLS mics is as good or better than the Shures.
there isn't a mixer that takes USB mics, I'm pretty happy with the Behringer X1204USB I got last december. I'd also recommend the AT2005 USB mic. It has both USB and XLR and is usually around $60. It's a dynamic mic that works well and the mixer has the capacity to have 4 of them.
For an arm, I have a cheap Newwer Mic Boom that works well, but I don't think it'd hold up under a lot of stress. It's a good starter though and has a XLR cable built into it.
I'm using this as a mixer quite happily.. It idles fairly warm which I find odd, but overall I have had it 2 years with minimal problems.
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-X1204USB-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B0039PPW60
My only complaint is DAW related (since it sounds like you have a daw), it outputs as 2 audio tracks, a left and right signal and I cant get it to split into more. So, if you are wanting to add effects to a single instrument in your mix from your daw, it will apply it to everything coming in from the mixer.
I'm recording 1 instrument at a time which kind of ruins the value of a mixer.
I never messed with midi to mp3. I recorded my music through the track recording of my YPG-625 and used the audio out port to connect the piano to my computer's usb ( Guitar Bass To USB Link Cable Adapter... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00834KJ60 ). I changed audio in (using Audacity) to USB instead of Mic jack. So after I recorded a piece on the keyboard, I just hit record and pressed play. Not the most efficient way of doing it but hey it worked lol
Edit: now that I have a decent job, I'd probably use something like this BEHRINGER XENYX X1204USB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0039PPW60
I am so lucky!
I just ordered all new audio stuff and by luck I got a cardioid Mic, a mixer with phantom power, and a pop filter.
Thanks so much for doing this! If you have a chance could you do a tutorial type post on how to adjust settings on a mixer? I bought this one: Mixer with this Mic: Mic
Just sent you a tiny tip on your channel. Thanks man!
My gaming machine is a 6700K, 1080ti.
My streaming machine is a 2700x with a 1070.
My capture card is Avermedia 4k: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DHSZC4K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My mixer is this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039PPW60/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have an AT2035 for a mic.
From there it's just an xlr cord, a couple 1/4 to 3.5mm cord to hook to my gaming computer.
I have two https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KUD2G4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to keep the hum away that might happen.
I did my research ~1 yr. ago, and decided to buy a U-Turn Orbit Basic. I haven't been disappointed. They are considered the best budget TT around unless you get really lucky and find a nice vintage turntable in good condition. The Orbit plays 33 1/2 and 45, can take any cartridge you may want to upgrade to, and costs $179 for the "Basic" (that's what I have, although I did get the cork mat for $20). you are going to need a good budget phono preamp with that though, either opt for the Orbit with the Pluto amp built in (+$70), get the Pluto separate (+$90) or check out the Rolls VP29 ($49) or another from the link. If you already have speaker(s) to plug into, great! If you only have headphones, you'll need a headphone amp. I love my American made Shiit Magni 2 ($99).
I don't really have a budget. I just want good quality, good price. I wanted to get these powered speakers and this preamp. Bonus question, would it be better to get that preamp or to get the Basic with built in preamp? If I get an external one, I can upgrade in the future but how is the preamp important enough to do so?
Unless the turntable has a built in phono preamp (very, very rare), no. Records are made using an Equalization designed to match the physical properties of the medium. You will need a phono preamp.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RIAA_equalization
http://www.amazon.com/Rolls-VP29-Phono-preamplifier/dp/B0002BG2R2
Hey I'm hopping on this thread rather than making one of my own, because mine would be titled similarly.
I'm looking to get myself a turntable, but I'd like to use it with my existing equipment, namely a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 and a pair of fairly decent monitors. I'd like to know how things are going to go together before placing any orders. Would somebody confirm for me that I can get the thing playing tunes by putting one of these between the turntable the the focusrite, converting the cables to 1/4" and running 'em into the interface's front-facing inputs (on "line")? This is what I've pieced together in an hour of googling, so I thought I'd just ask directly somewhere. Do I have it right?
Apologies for the hijack!
Thanks! This is the kind of feedback I'm looking for. So I'd be alright with this, or is this too cheap? Rolls VP29 Phono Preamp
[best cheap solid state]
(https://www.amazon.com/rolls-VP29-Phono-Preamp/dp/B0002BG2R2)
mixed reviews but mine sounds good with upgraded tubes
Get a normal one.
https://www.amazon.com/rolls-Phono-Preamp-Red-VP29/dp/B0002BG2R2/
That should be good enough.
You need a phono pre-amp. I built a budget system with this one: https://www.amazon.com/rolls-Phono-Preamp-Red-VP29/dp/B0002BG2R2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rolls+Phono+Preamp&qid=1568299801&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Turntable goes to the preamp, and then I had a pair of powered Bose Companion speakers connected to the preamp. Once I upgraded to a cheap A/V receiver, I connected the RCA out from the preamp to an AUX in on the receiver, since the receiver didn't have a phono input.
Rolls should be decent for $50
http://www.amazon.com/Rolls-VP29-Phono-preamplifier/dp/B0002BG2R2
(Insert ubiquitous mobile-user apology)
Hello everyone, I’m basically new to the world of audio tech, having been gifted a Crosley Cruiser a few years back (I know, I know), which I’ve been connecting to an altec Lansing life jacket speaker with an RCA to 3.5mm jack cable. Ive now hooked up an old Yamaha home entertainment receiver to a set of Tivoli speakers that I had laying around and plugged the crosley in to that. It’s not great, but it works.
So what this post is about is actually the products I’ve been researching. I want to get a feel for what people have experienced with them. I will list the equipment below, with links. It’s not all the best equipment out there, but I’m on a budget, with Christmas around the corner, and having just graduated college. So not a ton of play money to go around. As much as I love shopping local, I want something more modern and refined than CL or flee market TTs so I think amazon is the way to go, and my budget is sort of flexible seeing as I’ll be buying over time, but 500-600 USD is what I’m expecting
Pro-ject Elemental turntable
Rolls VP29 phono preamp
Kinter K2020a+ amp
Dayton audio B652 speakers
There's so many things which could be effecting this, but my guess is that your input isn't being boosted enough. If its just when using the phono you might want to try out something like this as an intermediate boost before your receiver.
Ok. I saw people in the review section on amazon complaining that it didn't come with a grounding wire so I thought you had to also ground the amp itself. Are these two amps any better than the art? Or is the art the best out of the 3?
rolls VP29 Phono Preamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BG2R2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_11y8yb3Y4E1KC
Behringer Microphono Pp400 Ultra-Compact Phono Preamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H2BC4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_53y8ybCKF4Y7K
Edit: What made me second guess the Art was that people complained about hum and that's why I was looking into getting a new pre amp. My current one is a Pyle-999. Even when I have just it plugged into the receiver (and nothing plugged into the Pyle) I have a considerable amount to hum compared to when I witch to an audio source that has nothing plugged into it on the receiver.
The cheapest most cost effective phono preamp is one by the company Rolls: http://www.amazon.com/Rolls-VP29-Phono-preamplifier/dp/B0002BG2R2
So if I connect the turntable to this pre-amp
And the connect that to these speakers
I'll be rockin and rollin?
So, my current receiver is having issues so I decided to buy something new. I ordered this yesterday,
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-STRDH550-5-2-Channel-Receiver/dp/B00J30GXW2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520096579&sr=8-3&keywords=5.2+sony
But that does not have Phono inputs... I know, I'm a dumb.
So now I am wondering if I should just buy this to go with it?
https://www.amazon.com/rolls-VP29-Phono-Preamp/dp/B0002BG2R2/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1520096689&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=rolls+vp29
Or just go through the pain of returning it and maybe buying this instead.
https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX-8020-channel-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B00EE18O7W/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1520096789&sr=8-1&keywords=onkyo+tx-8020
What do you guys think?
mislim da ti treba ovakvo predpojačalo
That puts out a phono signal, not a line signal, right? Couldn't tell exactly from the quick googling. All you would need is a phono stage/pre-amp and then you could adapt the 1/8" TRS plug to RCA with a cable. It might even sound alright!
Check Amazon for phono pre amp and get one that fits your bud'...
http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452307792&sr=8-1&keywords=headphone+rca+adapter
http://www.amazon.com/rolls-VP29-Phono-Preamp/dp/B0002BG2R2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1452307834&sr=8-4&keywords=phono+pre+amp
For example
> Never heard of the Bugle2 before (but that one is way over $50 it seems?)
silly me I got fooled by the price of the blank circut board :o
Thanks I'll check it out! I have to admit I have a weakness for stylish audio products is the VP29 worth the extra 20 bucks?
Do you have any suggestions for speakers?
The pluto gets good reviews, but that's at $90.
I think for $50, this one is decent: https://www.amazon.com/rolls-VP29-Phono-Preamp/dp/B0002BG2R2/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1505448523&sr=8-14&keywords=phono+stage
I'm not an expert on these things, though...hopefully someone else can chime in.
I just purchased this same set-up (Pro-ject + Audioengine A5+) and think it is an excellent combination. As mentioned previously, you will need a preamp. This is the one I picked up, and I am very happy with the sound. Enjoy! http://www.amazon.com/Rolls-VP29-Phono-preamplifier/dp/B0002BG2R2
In your budget you will probably be getting a cheap preamp like this but I am not sure if it has a transformer or not.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BG2R2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Are you thinking it's a ground loop that can be resolved by something like this, or are you thinking something more like this?
So if this works and the static is gone should I get this as a permanent solution? https://www.amazon.com/Ebtech-Hum-Ground-Voltage-Filter/dp/B0002E4YI8
I had just setup my RP8's and was getting terrible static and mouse noise. One of these on each speaker worked perfectly. http://www.amazon.com/Ebtech-Hum-Voltage-Filter/dp/B0002E4YI8
you can buy a ground loop isolator that uses power instead of audio cables. amazon offers easy free refunds so if it doesnt work you can just send it back. heres a low profile one
The sound is coming from your computer. Computers have these sorts of problems all the time. You could spend $100 on a Focusrite 2i2, and it would definitely fix the issue. If you don't want to spend $100, couple of things you could try:
plug your interface or laptop or whatever in to this: https://www.amazon.com/Ebtech-Hum-Voltage-Filter/dp/B0002E4YI8
you can find them less on ebay. totally solved my ground loop problems. I plugged my computer power cable in to that, then my firewire interface is powered off the computer. This solved it after literally years of troubleshooting.
Does it go away when you unplug your laptop? If it does def a ground loop. I use an Ebtech HumX. Pricey but great. or a direct box with the ground lift switched. https://www.amazon.com/Ebtech-Hum-Ground-Voltage-Filter/dp/B0002E4YI8/ref=sr_1_1?gclid=Cj0KCQjwoebsBRCHARIsAC3JP0KckBAAQ1FraX_Vp6YQoFEZW3flFfd_AZl2fe6GBQXnpLMVD5etOqUaAoc0EALw_wcB&hvadid=241649272528&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9002578&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=3528929851408619068&hvtargid=aud-646675773986%3Akwd-335827032&hydadcr=26609_9892114&keywords=humx&qid=1570363809&sr=8-1
Check this one out -
https://www.amazon.com/Ebtech-Hum-Ground-Voltage-Filter/dp/B0002E4YI8/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521008648&sr=8-3&keywords=Ebtech+Hum+X+Hum&dpID=513iD2nS3hL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
You know what? You were right. After ruling out every other possible component causing the problem, I finally found a three-prong to two-prong ground lift adapter and started plugging my devices into it just to see if a ground loop was actually the culprit here.
Turns out it was a ground loop, but it sure as hell didn't sound like a normal ground loop. I find it interesting that a ground loop can manifest in this way. In almost every other piece of audio equipment a ground loop sounds completely different. The sound this thing was making sounded like radio frequency interference or electro-magnetic interference from a cell phone or something, rather than the tell-tale hum of a normal loudspeaker ground loop.
I was pretty convinced that it wasn't the speakers, since I'd been using this exact audio setup for my last computer without any problems whatsoever. The only new thing I'd added to this setup was a pc. So I figured that the computer would have been the thing causing the ground loop. Technically it was the computer causing the signal, but when I took the ground away from the computer the speakers were still picking it up. When I took the ground away from the speakers, the signal disappeared. This part kinda baffles me. If one device is sending the signal, disconnecting its ground should make it impossible for the other device to receive it, right? Yet it was somehow still getting through.
Either way, it's an easy fix now that I know what's happening here. I just have to slap a ground loop isolator on the AC plug for my speakers and I'll never hear it again. Hopefully anybody else out there who is trying to google-fu their way through this same problem will be able to find this post useful.
i had a groundloop hum in my powered monitors... what worked for me was buying one of those hum-x things http://www.amazon.com/Ebtech-Hum-Voltage-Filter/dp/B0002E4YI8 and plugging it into my computer... problem solved
Just one.
If you are getting hissing issues with these (I did most likely will due to the power electronics found in my laptop charger adapter), you may want to also look into getting something like this.
I had the same problem. I got one of these Ebtech Hum X Voltage Hum Filter. I wanted to get an isolator that helped with the buzzing, but didn't introduce another item in the analog audio chain. Because the problem was with the power path, I felt addressing it from the power side would be a better solution than potentially affecting the analog audio side.
I have the same setup, except that my interface is a Scarlett 2i2 instead of the Behringer. I had some white noise and an occasional pop. I did three things recently which helped tremendously:
2)I spent $79+tax on an Ebtech Hum X Voltage Hum Filter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002E4YI8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which the computer is now plugged into. (The Scarlett runs on usb power from the computer--I don't know if the Behringer does or has its own power brick. If so then I'd plug that into the hum filter.)
Good luck!
I've got the same monitors, they are great. As others have suggested, you should seriously considering using a proper DAC to get the best quality sound. I'm running mine off of Scarlett interface.
I had an issue with monitors picking up noise generated by my computer's PSU, which runs on the same AC circuit. A pair of these solved that problem for me.
This is one of those setups I want to scream K.I.S.S.(keep it simple stupid)! Buuuut I don't think you're stupid. ;)
Before we begin, here are my not-at-all-technical definitions to help clarify the rest of my post:
> Hum = Sounds like a quiet/distant printer, fluctuates between steady and irregular.
> Static = Sounds like a fuzzy noise or radio static, stays steady and regular.
This is as good as it gets for noise, or very nearly. If you still need more volume, turn up the recording device in Windows from ~90% to 100%. From here on out, any more volume you add anywhere in the chain will boost hum/static right along with the rest of the audio.
Hope that stream of conscious makes sense and helps.
I started out with a Blue Yeti and had decent results. But as others have said, it will pick up a lot of room noise.
You could also consider using a gaming headset with a mic: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HLUZXAY/ [here] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HLUZXAY/)
I’m in a podcast group and these come highly recommend for if you want to go with XLR mics: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NJ2TIE/ [here] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NJ2TIE/)
I recommend a board like this: http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-MG102C-Input-Stereo-Mixer/dp/B000Z7C9T8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397682975&sr=8-1&keywords=yamaha+mixer
It's relatively cheap, gets the job done well. You need separate microphones and XLR cables.
This is a good basic mic package:
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-ULTRAVOICE-XM1800S-Cardioid-Microphones/dp/B000NJ2TIE/ref=pd_sim_MI_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=0X64N5Q3GVRACE7BP79B
Here's a podcast I've done with the exact same products I just linked so you can judge sound quality:
http://hwcdn.libsyn.com/p/e/0/c/e0cc3dc16dd225c0/BIOOS24-TheHolyBible.mp3?c_id=7057683&expiration=1397688144&hwt=cc9e95aa2fd3c505643c5285aafdc2e8
You can subscribe to a service called Karafun for a one time/event use and it has most of the songs you want for karaoke, and anything else you can probably find on youtube. You'll need a laptop, if you want a monitor a small tv, a speaker, and a microphone or two. The Karaoke machines kind of suck, IMO.
​
If you have DJ you can see if they can rent you microphones. If you don't, you can get a decent Berhinger Voice mic for like $30 on amazon
​
18 in small tv: https://www.amazon.com/Sceptre-Clear-Brushed-Black-E185BV-SSC/dp/B07Q3T22CX/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=small+TV&qid=1562168733&s=gateway&sr=8-3
​
set of 3 mics (but could do fewer/one) https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Ultravoice-XM1800S-Instrument-Microphones/dp/B000NJ2TIE/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=behringer+voice+microphone&qid=1562168766&s=gateway&sr=8-3
​
Can't vouch for this mic, but it's cheap: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISNU3X4/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01ISNU3X4&pd_rd_w=WJtAp&pf_rd_p=8a8f3917-7900-4ce8-ad90-adf0d53c0985&pd_rd_wg=EVrCf&pf_rd_r=CEMHB0P1ZVKVVSCMGGDC&pd_rd_r=b2127a2e-9da9-11e9-b37e-594169a5e18b
​
You don't necessarily need mic stands if you have long microphone cables.
​
Decent PA System: https://www.amazon.com/Powerwerks-PW50-PA-System/dp/B004VQDAQK/ref=sr_1_11?crid=OH9SH5HX7LY4&keywords=portable+pa+system&qid=1562168848&s=musical-instruments&sprefix=portable+pa%2Cmi%2C149&sr=1-11
Thanks everyone for the feed back. After your suggestions I think I am going to use my Dell Inspiron to connect to the BEHRINGER U-PHORIA UMC404HD audio interface. From there connect 3
BEHRINGER ULTRAVOICE XM1800S by XLR cables. Connect BEHRINGER MICROAMP HA400 to the audio interface by TRS cable and use 1/4" to 3.5mm adaptor to connect headphones we already have. Pick up 3 inexpensive windscreens and stands. Did the pricing on amazon and it came to about $240 total, so not bad breaking it down to $80 a guy.
Amazon Links:
(Audio interface) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QHURLHM/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=ITTP0UQOZBIWX&colid=1KL6BZLXFZXJS&psc=0
(Mics) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NJ2TIE/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I30L3TMCYKWFWT&colid=1KL6BZLXFZXJS&psc=0
(Headphone amplifier) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KIPT30/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I380FGUUPU9497&colid=1KL6BZLXFZXJS&psc=0
Finally using Audacity to start. If I missed anything or something is wrong I definitely appreciate the feedback.
I haven't used that mic, so I don't know first hand the quality. Something like the Yeti has three mics in it, so it's good at picking up people sitting around it (not saying that's a good solution, it's just a solution). At this point, I wouldn't upgrade to any more USB mics, especially if you and your co-host are in the same room. I'd probably get a cheap USB mixer and something like these: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Ultravoice-Xm1800s-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B000NJ2TIE/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1499973733&sr=8-4-fkmr1&keywords=dyanic+mics
You can probably get both, plus accessories for about $120.
I started looking around a bit more at Automix and found the XR12. Could I pair that with a couple 3-packs of XM1800S along with appropriate cables and perhaps some desktop (conference table) stands?
The XR12 claims to be able to do "Revolutionary Dugan*-style Auto-Mixing automatically manages microphone gain sharing"
I think I might pitch this to the other members of the podcast:
1 x Mackie ProFX8v2
3 x Behringer XM1800S (there's a three pack with a case on Amazon.ca)
1 x Behringer HA 400
Thank you for the advice, tehdudeabides & StargatePioneer! I'm still going to be shopping and tweaking... but thank you!
The NW-700 is a decent mic for the money but you should probably use dynamic mics instead of a condenser mic. You’ll have a lot of issues with sound bleeding with 5 condenser mics in a room.
You could get 2 of these.
3x mic pack
That way you also don’t need phantom power.
Then you can pick up a better mixer with something like this.
mixer
Lastly, you can get 5 Neewer boom arm with XLR cables inside the arm for $18
That puts tour total at about $370 for the setup or about $75 each.
If you're looking for some solid mics that don't break budget I recommend The Behringer Ultravoice Xm8500 . Only cost 20$ for one and I have to say it's a pretty solid mic. They also sell a 3 pack of the Behringer Ultravoice Xm1800s for around 40$.
Behringer ULTRAVOICE XM1800S. Got the 3 set for an insanely good price. Should have known better XD.
You could always try this Behringer ULTRAVOICE XM1800S Dynamic Cardioid Vocal Microphones, 3-Pack (at 30-40 bucks a pop you can buy two for SIX mics) and TASCAM DR-40, and as many of these splitters as you need. We've put our mics into these splitters and they work splendidly. You'll also need XLR cables for the mics as well. If you have two friends who are louder than everyone else I guess you could also buy a mixer for a little more control.
Anyways, I have the DR-40, Behringer mics, and the splitters. They work pretty damn well for how cheap you can get them. You get great portability, as well.
A lot of these guys are probably a lot more pro than me, so they're probably the ones to listen to if you want to be super legit. If you are on a budget, though, I can confirm that this setup works quite well! Minus the mixer you could probably get everything for six people having a their own mic for ~$300.
Edit: The DR-40 comes with a 2GB memory card but you might want to upgrade it a little bit just in case. SD cards are pretty cheap now, though!
Edit Edit: You'll also want some stands, too... and these windscreens.
It might end up around like $300-$400 bucks. But when some of those Blues cost $100 per mic for the cheapest ones, it's kinda a good deal for all of the stuff you'll get. Also, if podcasting doesn't work out you now have all the equipment to start a karaoke bar.
Yes! Here is some cheap gear that you can take a look at to get you own your way, or at least know what you should be looking for.
Microphones
XLR Cable
Mixing w/ USB insert
With these you can generally record into audacity on your computer, or another recording device attached to the mixer.
ey man this all the stuff imma buy can you tell me if its all compatible
also is all i need? i know its been 4 months
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X7YJUGG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AB3RH2VK84JRX&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019OO4IY6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3T95V05QKJ0CN&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NJ2TIE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QHURLHM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=AV80KMVI6ZWQL&psc=1
If I was to get these microphones would I need the XLR inputs for the phantom power, or would it be acceptable to simply use 1/4" jacks for recording purposes?
The "double headed" cable is a 1/8" (3.5mm) TRS cable. This provides a stereo signal to the amplifier. I have the same issue with my receiver not having enough inputs. The easiest workaround I can think of is utilizing a small mixer to combine the inputs from your two devices.
Here is one that uses 1/8" (3.5mm) jacks so you don't need adapters or new cables.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00102VV46/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_PLWCyb4Y6QGZH
no, you cant do that. i mean you can but you can fry the controller's or the PC's sound jack or both.
you cannot do this safley without an audio mixer.
example:
http://www.amazon.com/Rolls-ROLLS-MX44s-Mini-Mix-IV/dp/B00102VV46/ref=pd_cp_MI_1
one potential solution to do this cheaply would be to use a 3.5mm audio cable out of the PS4 controller and into the blue input jack of your PC. then use the virtual sound mixer built into windows to listen to your PS4 through the PC's sound system. the only potential problem with this issue, is that depending on your sound card, there MAY be a slight delay in hearing the PS4 audio. this would not be present with a mixer.
I have this for my Volcas and Boutiques. It's ok, not as cheap as I would have liked and it's a little noisy. Does the job, though.
http://www.amazon.com/rolls-MX44S-Mini-Mix-Mixer/dp/B00102VV46
Oh yeah, didn't see that one. Well, it kinda sucks, but i think i could live with only 2 inputs. I wouldn't use the switch and the ps4 at the same time anway, so i just could switch between them.
Or i go with https://www.amazon.com/rolls-MX44S-Mini-Mix-Mixer/dp/B00102VV46 which i would need to import :-/
You need a line mixer. Either a mixing console or something smaller, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00102VV46/ref=psdc_11974881_t2_B0002BG2S6
I think this will work http://www.amazon.com/Rolls-ROLLS-MX44s-Mini-Mix-IV/dp/B00102VV46/
I bought it thinking I may use it. Haven't used it all and it's still sealed :/ wanna buy it from me?
https://www.amazon.com/rolls-MX44S-Mini-Mix-Mixer/dp/B00102VV46
Have one. 3 years old now. Use it in the car to mix GPS, media, and police scanner audio to my car speakers.
Something like this.
Anything cheaper, and it likely doesn't provide stereo out. I'd only go this route if the receiver in use is higher end, really, as you'd still need to invest in the chat adapter for mic input and party chat output, the cables, et. al. If you have a HTIB (Home Theater In a Box) for a receiver, you'll probably get better sound from the DSS2. Which would cost less than the mixer, and has a mixer function built into it.
Yeah, your all in one solutions are generally more ideal for ease of use. Hopefully in the near future we see more games going with binaural, or 3D sound, settings allowing us to make use of simple stereo hookups and no additional 3D processing for headset surround sound.
Alternatively, you could just use a stereo mixer. There's a decent amount of options out there for mixers, just find something that works with your setup.
Something like this although I'm not currently using one so no idea how good this one is:
https://smile.amazon.com/Rolls-MX51S-Four-Channel-Stereo-Mixer/dp/B0002BG2S6/
or
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00102VV46/
What i'd do is get two of these:
http://www.amazon.com/rolls-MX44S-Mini-Mix-Mixer/dp/B00102VV46/
And some long audio cables. Pump the game sound through one of them to split out to the three headphones, and then pump the mics through the other one to mix into the stream.
Assuming you already own headsets, total cost ends up being around $100 after cables.
I've got this on my desk. you can put four lines of stereo input to one single stereo output. After that, I've got it running through a small tube amp.
Edit- Forgot to mention, the amp isn't necessary, you can plug your headphones directly into the mixer.
Something like this?
Edit: wrong model
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00102VV46/ref=psd_mlt_nbc_B0002BG2S6_b
Do you know if a small mixer would adversly affect quality? Something like this or this. I want to add speakers to a setup currently served only by headphones, and want to eliminate the need for plugging/unplugging things with multiple audio sources. Partially for convenience and partially to avoid wear and tear on the cables.
Thank you for the work you provide in this subreddit.
You need to mic your guitar. Either buy an sm57 ($99) and own one of the most versatile and durable mics ever made for the rest of your life, or unless you are supplying your own entire PA, ask the production company to use one. Any reputable company will have at least a few.
edit: You should look at it as an investment, but if money is an issue--or you just need a short term fix--this sm57 copycat has excellent reviews and it's only $35 .
you should get a dBx 286s channel strip ($200.) and a Steinberg UR12 or UR22 interface. ($100.-$200.) or a Behringer ($60.) or Audient interface. Mic into dbx. Line level out of dbx into interface. Interface connects to computer via usb. Which mic? not that big of a deal. You could get an sE Magneto ($99.) or a GLS ES-57 ($37.) https://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Instrument-Microphone-ES-57/dp/B001W99HE8 or try plugging anything you like into the dBx unit. go get a flea market or pawnshop mic. you might be surprised. pawn shops are stacked with used LDC's that they can't sell.
basically for $3-400. you can have a versatile and very pro rig. (??) get shrewd and second hand and do it for half that. the main thing is the dbx 286s.
-as always read the number of stars in the reviews. keep it 4.5 or better out of 5.
It functions just like a handheld, so it is sometimes referred to as that. sometimes it is called an instrument microphone as well because the lack of a pop filter gives it a different frequency response. microphones are designed the way they are because of the way they function. here is a similar looking microphone being referred to as a handheld
http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PDMIC78-Professional-Handheld-Microphone/dp/B005BSOVRY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1397974400&sr=8-6&keywords=instrument+microphone
here is a similar looking one referred to as an instrument mic
http://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Instrument-Microphone-ES-57/dp/B001W99HE8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397974812&sr=8-1&keywords=instrument+microphone
honestly though, most handheld mics in similar price ranges will sound the same as the ones listed.
Here's my two cents:
If you're trying to record drums, you can get away with just two mics, but you'll need a pretty stellar drummer, and a really nice sounding room. If you want to get a more dry, studio sounding recording, you'll need more than the Scarlett 2i2. You'll want at the very least, 4 inputs, all with mic preamps. Then you can set up a standard kick, snare, overheads setup and get a decent stereo drum sound.
As for kick mics, honestly, neither of those are going to sound great. You're best bet for getting a decent sounding kick is to replace it with kick samples. Kicks are pretty much the easiest drum to replace, and a lot of software has made it extremely simple to do it. When you blend in a decent kick sample with a room mic, it's pretty easy to make it sound natural and yet halfway decent.
For the mics, you really aren't going to get much cheaper than that MXL bundle. I would possibly recommend going to Monoprice and getting their large diaphragm condenser, and a pair of their small diaphragm condensers which will only cost you about $40 more, but will give you a stereo pair of small diaphragm condensers.
The one thing you're forgetting is that you'll definitely need to get something to listen to your recordings on. I'd recommend a pair of Sennheiser HD280 headphones for that. Since you'll be doing site recordings, you'll need some headphones that offer good isolation, can be tossed in a bag, and sound fairly flat. The HD280s are great for that, and they only cost $100.
Once you get the basics down, I'd highly recommend getting one or two Shure SM57s. They're pretty much everyone's "desert island" mic, and can be used for almost anything. They're $100 a piece, but can pretty easily be re-sold for $80 or so. Or you can go the cheap route and buy some ES57s for about $35 each. From what I've heard, they sound about the same, but aren't as rugged and indestructible as SM57s.
This tends to be street price for them (Musician's friend, Sweetwater, amazon are all listed at $99), but beware of buying from non-dealer sources as they're often counterfeited.
I've heard GLS makes a decent clone and while I can neither confirm or deny it's build or sound quality, it does seem to be getting good reviews.
GLS Audio Instrument Microphone ES-57 for $36 isn't bad if you don't need an interface.
Best piece of advice Ive ever heard is this: Buy used, buy smart, buy once.
$1000 will go almost twice as far if you follow this advice.
In terms of new equipment, I'd by two GLS ES-57's and the Karma K-micro double pack. Thats two very respectable 57 knockoff's and two awesome SDC omnis for a total of about $110, where as just one brand new sm57 would cost you about $100. In terms of used mics, I would search on craigslist for a decent prosumer-lever LDC. I am fond of the AKG perception line when it comes to this. The Perception 420 has dual one-inch diaphragms and three selectable polar patterns. Super versatile, and you can probably find one for around $120. At $330, that is a pretty useable mic list.
The PreSonus Firestudio is great, and I bet you could find one for under 300 lightly used. Great thing about the Firestudio is that you won't need to buy a DI box to record bass direct in. The Firestudio has two hi Z instrument inputs, so you can just plug right in.
This potentially leaves you with about $370 left. I don't know too much about monitors honestly, but I'd stay away from the KRK Rokit monitors, personally. Friend of mine has some KRK's and there's just no control on the bottom end, and really not much in terms of high end. They can make any mix sound like crap, and for that reason, I wouldn't use them for my main monitors. I know you could find something better for 300 bucks, and still have about 70 left over for stands and cables. However, as someone has already said, make your own cables, and you will save a ton of money, as well as learn an incredibly valuable skill. You will need to by the tools to make the cables though.
I don't like August. It's my our anniversary, which is awesome, and it heralds the return of the NFL season, which is spectacular. Beyond this, in south Texas, it is HOT and humid. Disgusting. Walk out to check the mail? Sweating. Want to have a comfortable temperature inside your house? There goes the electric bill. I enjoy cicadas as much as the next guy, but hearing them happily singing while I'm trudging through mowing the yard again is almost a taunt! :-)
31 days for Augustus Should I be so fortunate this is on my main list.
These guys are also shockingly acceptable:
http://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Instrument-Microphone-ES-57/dp/B001W99HE8
You should also check out the GLS ES-57 (a Shure clone).
Try a GLS ES-57 - it's an SM57 clone.
https://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Instrument-Microphone-ES-57/dp/B001W99HE8
All shipping accounted for, and it comes out to be $981. I'd probably buy extra guitar strings with the leftover cash.
$125 Onxy Blackjack interface - Best preamps in an interface in its class. Simple coreaudio drivers.
$30 GLS ES-57 - Compares incredibly closely to the sm57, I've heard several mic shootouts online and was impressed.
$6 xlr cable
$229 Rode NT1A kit mic, filter, mount, cable - This is just a steal considering everything it comes with. I once heard a shootout between this and a u87 in a multi-million dollar studio, and I could definitely tell the difference, but I would not hesitate to buy this mic.
$38 two mic stands
$0 garageband - Incredibly powerful for what it is. Great plugins, takes au plugins, automation, limitless tracks, great instruments. I don't use it anymore, but when I knew every keyboard command and every feature, it was actually a dream to work with. Keep in mind that is it better than nearly any reording setup from 20+ years ago.
$98 sennheiser hd-280 pro - While these might not be the best to mix on, they are the best to track on no doubt. That said, I have been listening to music through these almost exclusively for years now, so I know them incredibly well.
$130 m-audio oxygen 49 - Never owned this keyboard, I have a dinosaur of a 90's yamaha workstation I got off craigslist, but those midi controls look so tempting, and I'm not that good at keyboard anyway.
$120 squier strat - I play a squier now that I got for free from a friend, and I am sure that I haven't pushed it as far as it can go. With a little setup, tlc, and eventually new electronics, they are great tools.
$200 project reflexion filter - I plan on getting the pro version which is $100 more, but in this scenario I would settle for the project version. This and using headphones to mix are my way of sidestepping acoustics and room treatment. Not ideal, but pretty effective.
$5 Guitar cable
All the time. We use the ES-57 on snares, toms, and guitar cabs for both recording & live use. The sound is almost identical to the Sure models. The ES-58s we just use live on stage and rehersal PAs (vocals), they can take a beating.
http://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Professional-Microphone-ES-57/dp/B001W99HE8
This is also one of the best places to buy cables and connectors.
This is a much cheaper SM57 copy that I use. It's pretty quality, especially considering the price drop.
You should use the line-in. Mic inputs have lower impedence and are usually mono. Its probably going to sound like crap either way. If youre serious about recording you can find some good inexpensive mics on Amazon and look for a usb mic interface. Ive been using a borrowed M-Audio MobilePre but there are a lot of options in the $50-70 range
I use this mic which sounded like shit until I bought this sound card. I also use a pop filter to get rid of that annoying pop when you use a word that has a 'p' in it. But the sound quality I get is really good and the mic never picks up sound from my speakers (even, inexplicably, if I point the microphone directly into the speakers.)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001W99HE8/ref=s9_simh_gw_p267_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=1TVT7JDH0JCAKRV7A629&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1935651402&pf_rd_i=desktop
Here is the mobile version of your link
I'm not sure of a soundcard that might be able to do that, but have you considered external effects hardware? Either effects pedals, or the Behringer X1204USB has effects on it. I use the 10-input version (with no built-in effects) for my audio setup.
Not a bare-bones budget, but I think if I could spend less than $500, that would be good. I'm starting to eye this Behringer mixer with four XLR channels because I would like the option to record up to four people in person at some point in the future. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0039PPW60/?coliid=I1U6WT72X04TT2&colid=CO55CD5WF43M&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
I'd highly suggest XLR mics and an Audio mixer. For voice effects, you'll have best quality with a hardware voice transformer. There are lots of software options available, but they typically have limitations and quality issues.
Here's a few suggestions as to what you could use...
Getting a good audio setup isn't cheap as you'll quickly see. lol. The microphone I linked is what I currently use and I love it. The Audio Mixer and Voice Transformer, I recently ordered myself so I can't fully say how good they are. But, they do have great reviews.
i don't have this exact one, i have the the X1204USB and its ok. perfect for the average studio musician/performer.
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-X1204USB-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B0039PPW60/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1416593544&sr=8-7&keywords=mixer+usb
here's the setup, routing:
http://www.reddit.com/r/Elektron/comments/2m7n2g/show_us_your_elektron_setup/cm7mq1o
wish i'd gotten that one, but its a lot more monies. i will probably upgrade in due time. that mixer looks fucking amazing. has amazing features. great price.
i'd pick the xenyx ufx1204 with the overload of features, good quality, and great price over the overpriced, great quality, but subpar featured mackie. i feel like mackie fandom is a bit of the monster cable/gold tipped crap... not much different in quality in the cheaper stuff... mixers are super easy circuits...
Check the Xenyx line of Behringer mixers. Affordable, does everything you need. You won't find a better value for the price. A lot of audio snobs turn up their noses at Behringer stuff, but I'm an audio engineer and I've used tons of it and its never let me down. It always seems to have the right functionality and you can get 4 channel mixer with USB functionality for about $150 on Amazon
(http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-XENYX-X1204USB-Premium-12-Input/dp/B0039PPW60/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1458146364&sr=8-2&keywords=behringer+xenyx)
This is what you want. It will give you 4 individual tracks.
Look at this page to give you many more options.
EDIT: sorry, the Behringer will only send your stereo mains to the computer via USB.
Something like this Presonus AudioBox44 is what you would need.
The X1204USB has the same effects professor as the standard 1204FX but also adds USB. For 170USD it's a killer little mixer although I don't have the FX version so I can't vouche for whether or not they are any good. Reviews seem positive about them though.
BEHRINGER XENYX X1204USB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0039PPW60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0IRTBb02R49VA
Hey man just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to respond with so much detail.
Your answer pointed me in the right direction and what I've found is that my mixer (Behringer 1202fx) only exports 1 channel. My understanding is that although I have 12 channels going into my mixer (that I can adjust, e.g. adjust gain on each) when it goes out of my mixer and into my mac, it's all one channel (this video helped me understand this: https://youtu.be/1VC1Dho7nh0). One of the next versions (Behringer 1204fx usb https://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-X1204USB-Xenyx-Input-Mixer/dp/B0039PPW60) looks like it would be able to record to 2 channels, but mine can't.
I had to bite the bullet and look into another option - either go for the 1204 (or another mixer with the 2 channel input) or an audio interface. It looks like the Focusright Scarlet 2i2 audio interface is a good option (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56EA). It records 2 channels, so in audacity I can record both mics on a separate channel. This seems worth it to me, because if someone speaks over the other or if someone starts coughing or their mic picks up noise or one person is louder than the other (and I don't pick this up when recording), I am assuming this means I can edit each mic's audio independently, so that when combined it's better quality.
If my understanding looks wrong, please let me know and thanks again for taking the time :)
I've been hearing the latest Windows 10 update hasn't been playing nice with Focusrite's USB interfaces. Can't confirm, I am Mac based and I love Focusrite's products, so I don't want to bash them. They make amazing products.
Just throwing this out there, however... adding just an USB interface may not satisfy the upgrade bug if the sound is already acceptable.
Regardless, there are lots of other options to act as a preamp (volume controller) in the middle, perhaps with additional inputs and outputs, headphone amplifiers, Microphone inputs, and/or the ability to to add some EQ. Below are just some examples I've found that all have balanced outputs (either XLR or 1/4" (TRS)) and these all have USB interfaces (DACs) built in too for direct PC/Mac connectivity! -
-------------------
DJ style mixers:
-
Desk style mixers:
-
Monitor controllers:
-
Other style interfaces:
Microphone: Get a dynamic mic. I recommend the ATR-2100 or the ATR-2005 which functions as USB and XLR.
Mixer: I usually get some hate for recommending the Zoom H4n or Zoom H6, but they do the job for quite the low price. Also consider the Behringer 1024.
Headphones: These headphones are quite pricy, but I've heard good stuff about these Sony headphones. You can always check out Daniel J. Lewis' post about headphones.
Mic stand: I think we may be over budget at this point, but you can pick up some Musician's Gear Boom stands from Guitar Center or the On Stage mic stand. There are some scissor arms for cheap, but they are made cheap.
If you're strictly wanting a mixer for the very basics of streaming, then I'd honestly recommend using some sort of virtual mixing software. Most users would disagree, but I think that reason is because a lot of streamers jump to using actual mixers because that's what they "hear other streamers doing" and they also want to appear more professional. But some sort of virtual solution would be my first recommendation. If you actually want to start implementing and building upon your setup other than the basics though, then obviously that wouldn't be a smart decision.
However if you really want a mixer, then I agree that a Behringer would be the most logical solution in my opinion. Most models give the user a lot of control and functionality, without a hefty price point. I personally have the X1204USB I use for recording music, and sometimes streaming. I wouldn't think someone only streaming would need that high of a model as I don't really suspect you needing that many inputs / control. That being said, you could possibly look into the Q802USB.
A very important thing to note is that you need to remember that mixers are typically used to convert analog to digital (while I do realize there are methods / adapters to create a digital to digital solution), so the fact that your microphone is a USB essentially means it's not going to plug into that mixer. You would need to invest into a standard condenser microphone that uses an XLR connector. Some might recommend purchasing some sort of USB to XLR adapter, but I've never found that to make much sense as it's regression.
Go for a stand alone mixer that has a USB interface. It costs more than the one you're looking at, but not that much. I'm afraid you'll quickly outgrow the mixer you showed. Plus you'll eventually want a USB interface.
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-XENYX-X1204USB-12-Channel-Mixer/dp/B0039PPW60/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1377547611&sr=1-2&keywords=Behringer+QX1222USB+XENYX+USB+Mixer
Good Luck!
I started a podcast with my nephew about 6 months ago. Since starting, our setup has evolved a lot from where we started, which was two USB microphones into my laptop. Now we have:
Behringer 1204usb mixer
2x LyxPro LDX-20 condenser microphones
2x LyxPro LDC-10 condenser microphones
And some scissor mount stands and a behringer headphone preamp for four headphone outputs. Overall it wasn't tremendously expensive, but the quality shot way up.
Behringer XENYX X1204USB Would prolly work for you. I use it. It runs for about 150$ Its vary similar to the Behringer UFX1204 BangsNaughtyBits linked above but less then half the price.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039PPW60?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
This is my mixer that I use however you don't really need a mixer to stream. You could just get a USB mic.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039PPW60/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687522&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B003EUX2QM&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1B4FA31W98QTQGTAC38F
I want to say it's a pretty good sized Behringer mixer, similar to this one, but not that exact model. I'll try to remember to check in on that tomorrow when I drive over there.
I would splurge a bit more for
http://amzn.com/B0039PPW60
I have the bigger version of this, and it had a bit of a learning curve, but once i got it all figured out, everything works great.
The usb allows you to record the output via usb instead of messing with adapters from RCA. If you want to record audio using the computer as a source ( music/videos/etc ), do not use the usb line in option, it really limits you, use a 3.5mm to double 1/4 inch and put it into one of the balanced channels past the 4 unbalanced ones. Get a good cable, otherwise there's bad hum. Also, i found a headphone amplifier was incredibly helpful when having several people on shows, they could each have headphones with independent volume control, i got this one:
http://amzn.com/B003M8NVFS
I noticed, you could not just use a stereo 1/4 inch cable from headphone out to headphone amp, it wasn't coming through stereo, so i ran RCA output to 1/4 inch stereo to the headphone amplifier, and BAM worked.
I'm not an expert, so i could be wrong about all of this, just what i've done after hours of tinkering.
This is either your 'Gain' set too high, or a grounding power issue to your computer/audio interface. I've personally had to buy a power conditioner to fix this issue. Something like this. You should also check to confirm you're actually using the SM and not a built-in mic or webcam mic. You may also get more help by posting this to /r/audioengineering/ as it's not much of a CSGO issue as much as an audio issue.
Thank you, this looks like what I need. If I get something like the Furman M-8×2, should I be plugging everything into that directly or is running the power strips I already have into that an option? (Or would it be defeating the purpose somehow?)
https://www.amazon.com/Furman-M-8X2-Outlet-Conditioner-Protector/dp/B003BQ91Y6
I've been researching Power Conditioners, and there are a lot of differing opinions out there. I'm wondering if anyone here has an idea if it would be worth it to purchase something along these lines in order to improve my sound quality and/or protection, and if so, which one would be best. Thanks!
Furman
Nady
Pyle
Depends on what your power situation looks like. I agree with other comments that you don't need the individual switches. However, you may want a battery backup. I like the APC rackmount UPS units. However, if you already have reliable power, and you just want clean power, you can also look into a Furman power conditioner. Otherwise, there are plenty of good rackmount PDUs out there. Personally, I use an APC UPS on it's own, but my rack isn't fully contained and is in a closet full of gear.
Maybe you need a power conditioner?
https://www.amazon.com/Furman-M-8X2-Outlet-Conditioner-Protector/dp/B003BQ91Y6/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1537575727&sr=1-4&keywords=pyle+power+conditioner
you might have some power issues in your home and may need a power conditioner. I have this one (https://www.amazon.com/Furman-M-8X2-Outlet-Conditioner-Protector/dp/B003BQ91Y6) and it has worked wonders and cleaned up all my hums and doubles as a surge protector, protecting all your hard earned expensive gear.
If none of his suggestions work, plug your amp into a power conditioner. I have this one in my recording rig because my audio interface is ungrounded and I was getting that hum until I added it. Pretty affordable for audio gear and Furman is a pretty trusted brand name.
I don't know what that is. Like this? https://www.amazon.ca/Furman-M-8X2-Outlet-Conditioner-Protector/dp/B003BQ91Y6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=furman+pc&qid=1574539708&sr=8-1
This should help...
Also, think about getting yourself a Furman Power Conditioner.
I had the same thing, even with my Scarlett 18i6 interface. It's likely caused by a dirty A/C signal in your home's wiring. I bought this and it cured the problem completely for me for my computer's previous location in my humble studio. Since, I've moved to another outlet; there is a very slight hiss but it's 1,000 times better than it was originally. If you want to test this theory before spending any money, you can try other outlets in your home and/or listening from a friend's house, library, etc.
Check to see if any part of your network is running parallel with high voltage cabling. I would attempt directly connecting to your LAN if your on wireless. Another option is to condition the power for your computer and router/hub.
Link to amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003BQ91Y6
The only thing to keep in mind is you could potentially pick up audio from the television on your microphone. You would have to keep the TV turned down low if you don't want to commit to a headset.
A lapel mic would work but may not be very good quality for commentary. I've never had a lapel mic that recorded all that great. You could just set up a USB microphone with a longer cord and mic stand next to you on the couch.
Here is what I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Samson-C01U-Studio-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B00HXE4BYW/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CLIPHO/
If I'm recording at my PC, I just slide it over next to me. If I'm on the couch playing off a console, I just slide it over to where the mic is at appropriate recording distance from my mouth. I love being able to easily go back and forth between areas since I switch between PC gaming and old consoles.
When I'm jamming on the PC, I use a headset so the game audio doesn't get picked up by the microphone.
When I'm console recording over on the couch, I keep the TV turned down low and it's far enough away to where it doesn't get picked up by the mic although I've thought about getting a headset for the TV with a long cord so I can hear the game audio... I like to hear the music lol.
Currently looking to get into home vocal recording for classical and/or crossover voice. I'm aiming for about $100 AUD (approximately $75 US) to spend on recording software (mic, stand, computer input).
As a sound engineer I use boom stands all the time. Theres not much that changes between models. The most irritating thing is when the arm doesn't hold and begins to fall so you probably don't want a really cheap one. You also may want to look at the length of the boom - will it bring the mic close enough to your face in a comfortable position.
Something like this would do the job just fine if it suits your needs: http://www.amazon.com/Samson-MK-10-Microphone-Boom-Stand/dp/B003CLIPHO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395164738&sr=8-3&keywords=boom+stand
Hope this helps!
For sound I'd recommend an inexpensive mic stand above you and outside of your shot. Then clip your phone to the stand and record the audio.
Not sure on your shooting style but sounds like you are doing talking head videos. Due to you not wanting to have a crew hold a mic for you.
mine is a tri-pod base, like this I don't think it would wobble at all.
Yeah, a stand would definitely be a good idea, though I'm not sure how to attach one. You could get one with a basic clamp, but it might have to reach fairly far. Or you could get a tall one, and just put in on the floor, and aim towards your face.
Top of the line desk mounted stand
Cheap but good enough desk mounted stand
Floor stand
Do you think these would work?
https://www.amazon.com/Samson-MK-10-Microphone-Boom-Stand/dp/B003CLIPHO
https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Mini-Ball-Camera-Mount/dp/B000L47AHG
I bought this for my 2nd guitarist for his vocals.
Samson MK-10 Microphone Boom Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CLIPHO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pkRqzbZJEKXWG
Great quality for the price. I would use it if I wasn't already using the stand my primary guitarist gave me. I believe it's a gator. It has the round weighted bottom which I prefer since I set the stand to the left of my kit next to the hi hat. Makes it easier to get behind and out from behind the kit without tripping over the legs.
I also got this stand for my rode M5 overheads, along with the K and M dual mic holder for ~$14.
Microphone Stand Heavy-Duty Collapsible Tripod Boom Microphone Mic Stand, Height Adjustable, Boom Extendable (PMKS56) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SVRLPYY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PmRqzbT4DK74N
Perfect for overheads and again great quality for the price.
I hope I'm posting this in the right place.
I'm looking for a low-end solution for recording vocals, connected to a PC.
I have absolutely no experience whatsoever with audio hardware. My wife loves to sing - and though I am of course biased, I think she's pretty good at it - and so I want to get her a gift of some recording equipment.
I'm not looking for anything high-end; I'd like for it to be "decent", but it doesn't have to be professional level hardware. I'd like to be able to get everything for somewhere between $300-400 if possible. So, specifically, I'm looking for...
I assume there might need to be an amp in there somewhere? I don't know, I don't know anything about this stuff.
Would anyone please be willing to give me some recommendations on parts, and what specifically I will need? Thank you.
Edit: Okay, what about this?
AT-2020 Mic
Scarlett Solo USB Interface
Mic Stand
Pop Filter
XLR Cable
Seinnheser HD280 Headphones
Couldn't you just pay a boom operator $20 and call it square?
Personally, I would start as basic as possible and then adjust later.
The [Samson MK10] (https://www.amazon.com/Samson-MK-10-Microphone-Boom-Stand/dp/B003CLIPHO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496125652&sr=8-1&keywords=samson+mk-10) seems to be the cheapest, most trusted budget microphone stand option for beginners (unless you're a tall person, because it's kind of short). Never used it though so can't say for sure.
For microphones, will you be using it to sing? If so, any mic with the words 'dynamic' and 'cardiod' should do the trick, I think.
Re: amplifiers. Do you want something battery powered, or will you have access to electricity? Will you be playing outside or inside? (that affects how loud it'll need to be) How important is portability (heaviness etc ...) to you?
Looking at the responses you've gotten so far and your need for good recording equipment over and above the need for the PC itself, I've put together another build for you.
This uses a fanless Intel Bay Trail quad-core chip. It's not a barnstormer in terms of performance, but you can't get any quieter than fanless. It includes a fanless power supply and a 5400RPM laptop hard drive (I'm still not convinced that recording to an SSD is a good idea -- mine introduces an unacceptable amount of jitter into the recording, even with low bitrates) to keep it as quiet as possible.
Size is also reduced. This is about the smallest you can make a build-it-yourself PC. 8.5" on a side, 2.5" tall.
I've included a USB ADC (analog-to-digital converter) with XLR inputs, phantom power and hardware gain control alongside your previous selection of the Shure SM94 instrument mic. I have an SM94 and it should work well for your application (it tends to be a bit bright for guitar or winds, but strings should work nicely with it).
I also included a mic stand with boom arm, as proper mic position is essential to capturing the correct character of the instrument.
The only thing I didn't include was an optical drive, but you mentioned looking for an external USB drive. That'll be your best bet here as well.
Let me know if you have any questions.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Memory | *Team 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1333 Memory | $56.98 @ OutletPC
Storage | Samsung Spinpoint M9T 2TB 2.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | $108.65 @ Amazon
Other| ASRock Q1900B-ITX Celeron J1900 quad-core CPU + Motherboard (Bay Trail) | $72.00
Other| Mini-Box M-350 Universal Mini-ITX Case w/ 80W PicoPSU | $70.00
Other| Shure SM94 Instrument Mic | $180.00
Other| ART USB Dual Pre XLR ADC | $80.00
Other| Samson Mic Stand w/ Boom | $20.00
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $587.63
| *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-16 10:21 EST-0500 |
> http://www.amazon.com/Samson-MK-10-Microphone-Boom-Stand/dp/B003CLIPHO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1420539742&sr=8-4&keywords=mic+boom
I've literally just got it in the mail yesterday and it fairly fixed my issue with a washing machine in the background. I have a Das Keyboard with MX Browns, and it doesn't pick up at all while recording. I highly recommend this stand as of so far.
I use a mic stand pretty much like this, but since you say you don't have the money for one now, you might have to make a homemade one by stacking some books on a night stand and putting it near your chair, so it's off to the side. I record with my mic off to the side and it works pretty well I find.
i've used something similar to this when I used the yeti before. I just put a weight on the back leg.
http://www.amazon.com/Samson-MK-10-Microphone-Boom-Stand/dp/B003CLIPHO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1420539742&sr=8-4&keywords=mic+boom
You can also go all out, and get a shock mount, and such, but that and putting the mic as close to your face as your comfortable with will work fine.
There should be a way of mounting a camera to a mic stand so that you can place it over a table looking down. This would work best if your camera is small and light (like an action cam).
These are the things you'd need (just an example - it doesn't have to be these exactly). Make sure the mic stand can extend to the height your desire.
https://www.amazon.com/Samson-MK-10-Microphone-Boom-Stand/dp/B003CLIPHO/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1503979876&sr=1-3&keywords=mic+stand
https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Support-21600N-Threaded-Adapter/dp/B0006PXXR6
If you want to go for the cheap route, you could do what I do. I have a cheap $20 mic stand with a pop filter that attaches to the mic/boom stand arm and then attach an adjustable shock mount so it can fit both types of mics.
I'll link the ones I personally use.
Mic/Boom stand: https://www.amazon.com/Samson-MK-10-Microphone-Boom-Stand/dp/B003CLIPHO/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1522273119&sr=1-5&keywords=mic+stand
Pop filter: https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Microphone-Stabilizing-Awesome-Recordings/dp/B01N21H9WY/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1522273155&sr=1-3&keywords=pop+filter
Shock mount: (I use a different mic, but you can check out a few of these) https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Dmi&field-keywords=adjustable+shock+mount&rh=n%3A11091801%2Ck%3Aadjustable+shock+mount
Hope this helps!
Copy/paste of a budget setup I've been putting together lately:
I think all told that runs you about $400, but you can use that to set up a solid Glyn Johns set up. If you want to multitrack the rest of a band, the Pyle will work well on guitar cabs, you can DI the bass and use the kick mic on the cab, and condenser mics will do pretty much anything else. I have a better setup for doing final takes, but this is more or less my current setup for demos.
Also, if you're really strapped for cash, you can start with just the interface and one condenser mic, although it won't be great. From there, get the kick and snare mics, then a second OH when you have the money.
I just ordered this one from Amazon, which is discounted by $50 (from $72 -> $19.99). Of corse I can't attest to quality as it's shipping, but the reviews are good (4.3 with about 700+)
https://www.amazon.com/Samson-MK-10-Microphone-Boom-Stand/dp/B003CLIPHO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481431820&sr=8-4&keywords=mic+stand
Funny you ask, I was just about to make a post asking if I royally screwed myself (excuse my vulgar analogy) for compatibility because I got a Samson Meteor Mic. Its good but it seems its compatibility is abysmal. Im gonna go out on a hunch and say that it's compatible with the Samson MK10 mainly because you can bundle it with the microphone, could be wrong though. Also from everything I've seen you can't put a shock mount on it. But this is all coming from very short answers in Amazons question section so maybe you can provide me with some insight. My initial thought was combining that stand with this shockmount/popfilter.
If prices near me are correct:
The C1-U is 38$
Snowball is 49.99$
Meteor is 69.99
If you dont have a boom stand/Desk stand such as this, or this Buy the C1U + Stand (nearly same price as meteor alone, and it allows you to lift mic off table and higher up. Less keyboard+mice clicking noise and if its closer to your face it will have better pickup.)
If you already have a stand, then I would say grab the Snowball.
If you really like the look of the meteor then go for it. But understand that you are paying for the material around the mic, not necessarily better sound quality.
A shock mount would eliminate noise like typing or anything from the same surface as the mic stand (I'm guessing your desk). Biggest thing is mounting the mic so it is close to your mouth and away from other noise. The further away from your mouth, the more background noise it will pick up as well.
I'd get a boom stand or a swingarm stand to mount the mic. Will help get it closer to your mouth and eliminate noise that comes through your desk stand.
Yeah. I'm using this cheap one.
I've also got the XLR version. No real recommendation for what to buy (also interested in what people have to suggest) I opted for the Samson MK-10 Microphone Boom Stand. Works somewhat well. Doesn't exactly hold it's own though very well. Sometimes falls, other times supports itself. If you do get a boom stand I would find one with a few more pounds is all and I think they would be just fine. This one was 4 pounds.
If you plan on using it as a midi controller as well you'll need an audio interface that has a midi in/out, something like this.
Whew the wrong thing banged that out last night in a rush and few drinks in me.
The Focusrite Scarlett 2i4 and Focusrite Scarlett 18i8
2i4 just went on sale for $186 Amazon. I need an upgrade from my M-audio podcast factory :) Timely post! haha
Edit:
Here is one by Amazon, sorry, the other is third party.
I just bought it for $187, the price keeps going up and down,,,, I don't Amazon much, but is that normal?
Thanks! I see that the 2i4 is on sale for almost the same price. Should I get that instead?
The Scarlett will work fine, it will replace the Modi, but not the Magni.
I would bump up to the Scarlett 2i4 which has both RCA and TRS.
You would connect the device to your computer via USB and use it as a DAC. Connect your speakers to the TRS outs and your Magni to the RCA. Headphones would then be connected to the Magni.
If you aren't concerned about balanced connections (the only reason for them is to reduce noise and interference), follow what Diablo is saying and grab the Magni 2 Uber.
I'd like to purchase my first interface, nothing particularly expensive. I have a Rock Band 3 Keyboard that has MIDI out. I'd also like to record guitar and bass as well.
I saw the Scarlett 2i4, and have heard good things, but is there any cheaper alternative that can get me the same results?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks so much for the info! I noticed that I can get a used Focusrite 2i4 for about half the price on amazon, but it is listed as the "old version". Is there any significant difference in the old and new version?
This is the one:
https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-2i4-USB-Interface/dp/B009B15N0Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482653729&sr=8-2&keywords=Focusrite+2i4
Also, what is your thought on something like the Yeti mics that have a built in dac? I use one mostly for voice and it sounds great to me. But it a focusrite with rode mic going to just be world away better?
This is what I was considering: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Yeti-USB-Microphone-Silver/dp/B002VA464S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482653965&sr=8-2&keywords=yeti+mic
I will definitely be going external knowing all of this now. Thanks for the advice!
Edit: /u/nighserenity suggested the Scarlett, do you happen to have any insight as to whether or not this would be a good buy?
I use a Scarlett 2i4 and it is pretty amazing for the cost. The 2i2 also has pretty stellar reviews. I have absolutely no complaints about my sound quality, and I'm a 'light' audiophile.
2i2 runs $150, which is pretty modest for the quality. It's really similar to my 2i4, and all the Focusrite products have awesome build quality. Plus it looks pretty sleek, in my opinion.
Regarding the 2i2:
It has 2 universal line-in ports (takes XLR or 1/4"), 2 line-outs, a 1/4" headphone jack, and a USB slot. The 2i4 has a bit more, but it's also unnecessary for you, I'd think.
Just be sure you get a dual 1/4" to dual 1/4" (assuming the ES100 outputs in stereo). You might also want to grab a 10ft. or longer Type A to Type B USB cable, because I found the one packaged with the Scarlett far too short (think it was 3', so consider the length between your gear). If you want to go directly out to studio monitors, the line-outs are also 1/4", so cable up appropriately.
I'd say avoid Behringer products -- I've only ever had one, which was a small headphone DAC (which was promptly replaced with a FiiO) that stopped working several months in. Their stuff is much cheaper for 'more', but the build quality and, based on personal experience, the product life, suffers for it. It felt very cheap, and I tend to take my gear around a lot, so I like something sturdy. It's anecdotal, but it's a pretty common sentiment. Your mileage may vary!
I'm not familiar with any other brands with hands-on experience, but the other big names (Akai?) tend to cost a fair bit more, and most of the third-party stuff is probably akin to Behringer -- very hit or miss.
ElGato Stream Deck - $229
Blue Yeti mic & boom arm combo - $298
Blue Radius Shockmount - $107 (Essential to avoid picking up vibration sounds on the mic)
Neewer Pop Filter - $15
Blue Yeti Wind Filter - $19 (Not necessary but I use this instead of the pop filter)
Logitech C922 Webcam - $120
That's my exact setup bought from the exact same places. Hope it helps =)
I know I'll get scoffed at by the audio geeks here, but I use a cheap First Act mic and a cheaper pop filter and my friends say I sound great. I don't do much in terms of production, though.
My current microphone is a Neewer NW-800 with a pop filter, stand, power supply, & shock mount. In total, around 100 dollars (excluding shipping and the wire/adapter)
Microphone,
Boom Arm,
Pop Filter,
Power Supply,
I got mine for around 65 because the mic was on sale, so I would wait until it goes on sale again to be a bit more affordable.
PS: If you want to connect this mic to the PS4, I recommend these two:
Wire, Adapter
Yes, your specs are good enough for an LP series. I agree with Pyroraptor (Audacity, OBS Studio/Standard OBS, Gimp, I use Lightworks, but you could use HitFilm. The webcam seems pretty nice. Just remember that the Neweer is a condenser mic, meaning it will pick up almost anything, so it would be a good idea to either remove any potential background noise in Audacity or use a noise removal program. I would focus on the mic and software first, webcam later. Hope this helps! -Alduin
Really enjoying the podcast episodes but you REALLY need to spend the $10 and BUY A POP FILTER for your snowball mic. Your Ps are killing my ears (listening with earbuds).
The sound quality has improved with the new mic, but the pop filter is a must, especially with a snowball mic (which I use as well).
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Studio-Microphone-Filter-Shield/dp/B00ACFAULC/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1474065130&sr=1-5&keywords=Pop+filter
If you actually are using a pop filter, then you need to back off the mic. And you should run a leveler in post production to pull up the volumes of your cohosts which are about 50% of your volume. It sounds like you are almost eating the mic while they are sitting across the room.
Again, really enjoy the content of the show, just needs some cleaning up/ polishing to make it sound more professional.
Nothing that can't be easily fixed.
Keep up the good work!
If you want more desk space I recommend one of these https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Microphone-Suspension-Broadcasting-Voice-Over/dp/B00DY1F2CS/
maybe one of these as well
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Studio-Microphone-Filter-Shield/dp/B00ACFAULC/
For software, Audacity is definitely the way to go if you're looking for the cheapest route. It can be a bit clunky at times, but it can get the job done.
For hardware (eg. microphones), you might have to spend quite a bit for solid and clean audio quality. There's a lot of technical background on microphones (and audio recording in general) you should keep in mind before choosing an appropriate one. For example, a pop filter might also be another thing to look into. It's fairly cheap, and you could potentially just craft your own by watching different Youtube tutorials.
Have fun with the project :)
Mic
Arm
Filter
shock mount
I don't know what mic you use but apart from postprocessing (or talking from further away...), if you want to limit the little pops, clicks and blowing noises, you can buy an anti-pop filter to put in front of/on your mic, super inexpensive and it'll really improve the quality of the speech. Since you have a great voice, it'll make it stand out even more!
for instance, quick search on amazon
Neewer NW(B-3) 6 inch Studio Microphone Mic Round Shape Wind Pop Filter Mask Shield with Stand Clip (Black Filter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ACFAULC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mH48ybFCFFSP6
The associated pop filters are really cheap too. I always had to be careful speaking into my mic before. Although I haven't had a chance to record with it yet. It fits around the mounting rod where the Snowball connects.
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Studio-Microphone-Filter-Shield/dp/B00ACFAULC
Thank you! Is this the pop filter you are using aswell? https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Studio-Microphone-Filter-Shield/dp/B00ACFAULC/ref=pd_bxgy_267_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7XD00DAHSRA6SPKEACBP
hi! trying to update my mic setup. Currently own an ice Snowball Blue and want to get better quality sound for my recording and gaming streams. I'd like to get an adjustable boom arm and pop filter for it. With my low budget, it seems these two fit the best. Can anyone confirm if this is a good purchase
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N9J81HH/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2CGN80EVS3S24&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ACFAULC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Pop filter > just get a cheap one like https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B00ACFAULC/. Just wait for a sale and for when stock is back up in Aus (it's out of stock atm)
Arm > Rode PSA1. Can recommend
Shock mount > sadly Razer's one was the only compatible one I'm afraid. I managed to grab it when it was still on sale but now I'd have no idea where to look for, sorry. Try a shop with good return policy I guess and try a few different ones
This and this is what i bought when i got my snowball several years ago.
I'm actually in the same boat as you and I have my eye on this same mic. However, I found it like $1-$2 cheaper to order the parts separately rather than the whole kit. AFAIK it's everything that is included in the kit:
 
NW-700 Microphone Set
Pop Filter Mask Shield
Scissor Arm Stand
 
I'm also interested if someone can provide additional input on anything else I'll need.
The Blue Snowball is awesome, but unless your room is sound awesome-ized, I would suggest a dynamic mic.
The Audio-Technica ATR2100-USB mic is pretty good, pair that with a desk arm and a pop filter and you'll be good to go.
Ahhh ok, yeah that makes sense. Well there seems to be some nice 12 packs of soundproof foam for relatively cheap. And you'd probably only need it on wherever the sound waves are bouncing off of (I say as if I know anything about the science of sound). But these look like decent ones: https://www.amazon.com/Soundproof-Store-Acoustic-Soundproofing-Charcoal/dp/B00ATP5KF6
I do! And it's actually very affordable.
I bought a few sound dampening panels from Amazon (Something like this ) and lined the walls of the room. I got rid of any surfaces which can reflect sound and those I could not get rid of, I covered with thick comforters and heated blankets (they absorb noise well) then I set up the mic on the corner of the room.
The wall behind me and next to me are fully covered in soundproofing material.
The only issue I have is when the central air conditioning kicks in but...hey. I can turn it off ;)
EDIT: You can listen through my auditions here for an idea of what it sounds like. I use an AT4040 mic with a Scarlett 6i6 interface.
I would recommend [Auralex] (http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-Studiofoam-Inches-Wedgies-Charcoal/dp/B0002D05KA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396896193&sr=8-1&keywords=acoustic+foam) if you don't have a tight budget.... but if you do, I'd go with [this kind] (http://www.amazon.com/2x12x12-BURGUNDY-CHARCOAL-Acoustic-Soundproofing/dp/B00ATP5KF6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1396896193&sr=8-2&keywords=acoustic+foam). I have both types in my set up and they work quite wonderfully together. The colors are nice accents as well!
Also, you will want to pull your table out from the wall a bit... and make sure you have the monitor tweeters at an equilateral triangle with your ears!
Somewhere down the line you can invest in bass traps as well. [Here are some yoga blocks as well] (http://www.amazon.com/YogaAccessories-TM-Foam-Yoga-Brick/dp/B000OFBC12/ref=sr_1_7?s=exercise-and-fitness&ie=UTF8&qid=1396896353&sr=1-7&keywords=yoga+block). Just make sure they will adequately support your monitors (aka being large enough).
If you have any questions, pm me whenever.
Try something like this
I'm thinking of possibly getting a couple blue sparks as overheads because I get a discount on them. Are there better overhead options for around $120?
What would you say the main differences are between the fiberglass absorbers and some typical acoustic foam padding like this?
I'm thinking maybe do three maps across the wall - NYC, LA, and my local San Jose. That'd be pretty cool.
Another thing I was thinking was sound-proofing the wall with foam. Not so much the sound proofing, but using the foam as wall art. Like this stuff but a color combo I like.
You can get acoustic foam relatively inexpensively. It can make a huge difference both inside the room and outside. You can get a pack on Amazon for less than $40.
I was actually considering the egg carton approach.
Line two walls with painted egg cartons or a similar plastic item.
Line the other two with thick covers.
If not that, this stuff is really cheap...
http://www.amazon.com/2x12x12-BURGUNDY-CHARCOAL-Acoustic-Soundproofing/dp/B00ATP5KF6
I haven't bought the foam yet, so right now I'm still trying to figure out what to buy and how much. My goal is to buy something that works well and will last, but I'm also not looking to spend more than I need to. So understanding the quality of what I'm buying is pretty important to me. I don't want to spend extra money because the package the foam comes in says Auralex when I could have just as easily bought some generic company's foam for the same purpose. Also, how much do I really need? And do I need those corner things?
What I was looking at listed from cheapest to most expensive.
_
The Room is a square 14x12 with hard wood floors. My mic is against the north wall (for the purposes of this diagram), and I sit maybe 1-2 feet from the mic with it pointed at my face.
. = wall
& = mic
^ = me talking at mic
\ = The side where the celling joint is a 45 degree angle
......
. & . \
. ^ .
......
__
Oddly, the upper right celling joint is at a 45 degree angle instead of a 90 degree angle, so it looks like this.
.........
\
\
\
.
.
.
.
.
Everything was off Amazon! I chose to install 2x12x12 panels.
Here (for yellow/charcoal), here (for burgandy/charcoal), and here (for orange/charcoal). The red/charcoal I had purchased is no longer available, but this one is.
This is what I used for my booth in KC. It's very dead, so I'm satisfied with their sound dampening performance, though this is the only brand I've tried so far, and the color fades from them for some reason. Might want to get more opinions on this.
http://www.amazon.com/2x12x12-BURGUNDY-CHARCOAL-Acoustic-Soundproofing/dp/B00ATP5KF6/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1452972717&sr=1-3&keywords=soundproof+foam
The more you narrate, the more you'll be able to record in a day without blowing your vocal cords. Just remember not to push too much.
I would appreciate your patronage, thank you. If you want one of my books for free, PM me with your email address and which book you want. I can even give you suggestions according to your tastes. All I ask in return is a review.
Thanks for the reply.
I recently bought a pair of Audio Technica's, but playing through headphones just doesn't quite feel the same. The thing is, the amp simulating on the POD XT Live is pretty old, and you can really hear it when you play through headphones. The tones sound a lot better coming out of the monitors. I barely record, too. I just make guitar covers and upload them to YouTube for fun.
Wouldn't buying something like this and just pasting it on the wall somehow do the trick? Or is there more to it than that? I apologize if I'm coming off as a total noob, but I really am one lol. I've been living in this apartment for only a year and I sometimes don't even bother picking up my guitar because of my current setup. 2015 was a pretty frustrating year because of that.
Amazon
You can always sound proof the room. Soundproofing is meant for music stuff but you can use it for any purpose. The material absorbs most sounds. Just put these squares all over the room and you should be good. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ATP5KF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7uTRCbWFY6ZEG
There are cheaper sets than this, I just copied the first one I found
All right, here's the conundrum:
I need an external USB DAC/ head + mic amp for my work laptop:
Budget (very small) ~50-80$/euros
Has to be an improvement over default Lenovo T440p audio - lenovo doesn't even list the name of the bloody thing, stating that's it's "Dolby"... Device manager likewise states a generic Realtek HD driver.
Headset: Sennheiser game zero 50ohm
Problem: I've recently purchased Sennheiser game zero headset as a replacement for the company provided Plantronics crap. I know I like the cans, and having forced my friend to buy pc350 and recently pc360 sets, I know i like the microphone. All good here. But on the company laptop the microphone is absolutely horrible. Laptop has the silly combo console-style headset jack, and while the headset has a separate cable for the combo jack, by all accounts my voice sounds extremely flat, weak and distant compared to 40$ plantronics usb headset. Windows audio input settings don't fix the issue, but can introduce background noise.
Now I need a budget external dac, that won't make my ears bleed and will allow me to fix the microphone input issue.
Search for similiar issues I've found https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q502USB-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B00CTKI10A but it appears to be all about mixing and nothing about DACing, unless my impression is wrong. There's also https://www.amazon.co.uk/Creative-Sound-Blaster-System-Preamp/dp/B00GMDWNJK but I've found some worrying accounts of it freezing when the mic input is used.
Any suggestions?
Ok, I googled this a bit and found an audacity plugin that seems to be decent, but would require I separate the audio from the video then put it back together, this seems like it'll be a lot more time consuming than I'd like.
So I went down the hardware path a bit, I'm really not sure that I'm on the right trail, but is this something that would do it?
Behringer Xenyx Q502USB
If that's the case, you might be better off buying active powered PA speakers. Most home theater speakers aren't going to be able to handle the volume you're probably going to throw at them. You won't have to buy a receiver either, because these speakers have their own power source.
These speakers would be good, and you'd need a mixer like this (and power supply to hook your source up to, using this cable.
We had a system similar to this in our frat house in college, and those speakers were just about indestructible and ridiculously loud. You can also add a subwoofer (or two) if you want.
Edit: Forgot about speaker cables.
You can also skip the mixer and just directly hook up your audio source to the speakers using this.
It depends what you're wanting the mic for. And XLR setup is more expensive upfront, but it is better. The mics are essentially the same, the difference with XLR is that you have more control over the mic. You can also have filters and compressors depending on your mixer. My mixer is quite basic BUT has a compressor and equalizer on it so if I yell really loud, it wont get distorted like a USB mic would. That alone is worth the extra cost, imo.
My mixer: http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q502USB-5-Channel-Mixer/dp/B00CTKI10A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462723975&sr=8-1&keywords=Behringer+Q502usb
Ok; you'll need two things.
First, you need a device to convert the optical from the ps4 to analog. A simple dac like the fiio d03k will do the trick, as will an hdmi audio extractor. If you're interested, I have a d03k for sale over on hardware swap.
From there you need something with inputs and separate volume knobs for each input. A mixer will work, but so will something simple like this.
All you need to do is plug an optical from the ps4 to the dac/audio extractor, then an RCA cable from the dac/audio extractor to one of the inputs on the mixer. Then from your PC, you'll need a 3.5mm to RCA cable to go from your PC's line out to another input on the mixer.
I hope this helps out some.
One more thing that will work, but is much simpler, is a usb mixer. Those can be more expensive though, but here's a decent one that's not too expensive.
No one's mentioned the bias power required by the electret mic element. These types of mics require +3 to 9 VDC to power the FET inside the mic. This voltage is usually supplied by the computer's Mic Input jack. (also supplied by phone's headphone jack on a TRRS connection). The headphone jack can just be adapter to 1/4 inch and use the headphone output of the mixer (https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-GPM-103-3-5-inch-Adaptor/dp/B000068O3T/ref=sr_1_6?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1475092197&sr=1-6&keywords=1%2F8+to+1%2F4)
A direct connection (passive) XLR adapter will not work, and if you turn on Phantom Power from the mixer you may damage the mic.
The Rode VXLR has a battery in it, so the passive adapter still works. You need something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Phantom-Power-Adapter-for-Sennheiser-3-5mm-Jack-Lapel-Lavalier-Microphones-/291526821026?hash=item43e05a44a2:g:ZyoAAOSwDNdVuW99
It takes 48V Phantom power from the Focusrite (or whichever mixer you use) and adapts it to the 3VDC you need to run the mic. Plus is does the connector change too. Now this one is a Chinese knock off, and sold to work with Sennheiser mics which come with 1/8 connectors, so no guarantee.
Also, I don't have a recommendation for anything cheeper than the Focusrite, but they make 'em. It really depends how many setups like this you'll be running at one time. If its just one, and you don't really care about high end voice quality, then there's ones like this: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q502USB-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B00CTKI10A/ref=pd_lpo_267_lp_img_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SCHZQ7YJFT6Z4EQKCVKA
I have the same microphone and I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-502-Premium-5-Input-British/dp/B000J5UEGQ
And this:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/
That would be good if you have a line in input on your computer (the blue one)
If not, this would work if you don't mind loosing a USB port:
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q502USB-Xenyx/dp/B00CTKI10A/
That's actually a good idea that I hadn't thought of at all. I'll look into that. Do I need to look out for anything specific? Could I use this? Cause I still have one of those somewhere.
Behringer Xenyx Q502USB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CTKI10A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-4kwCbC92NFMT
This is my exact mixer. To give you an idea of how it's all layed out and what it has
OK awesome, thank you I will keep that in mind a long with the picture / diagram that I made. Looks like I will be investing in a smaller sound mixer - Are you aware of one any smaller / essential for this task other then the Behringer q502 USB?
ORRRRRR
Wouldn't the Behringer 1202USB Sound Mixer allow me to use the microphone pass through AND the whole task I am trying to get right now at the same time on this sound mixer?
You could probably use a small usb interface to run your audio into the PC and also output it into the controller. Something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q502USB-Xenyx/dp/B00CTKI10A/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1549080657&sr=1-1&keywords=xenyx+usb
I don't think it would make that much of a difference (if any) if you were to use either the PS4 or TV SPDIF.
 
I have my PS4, XBOX, TV, etc. going to my powered monitors via a mixer.
This is connected to my TV. - SPDIF DAC
Which goes to this. But you don't really need it unless you have multiple sources you want to easily switch to. - RCA Switch
Switch is connected to this. - USB Mixer
Or you can get the smaller version.
Or one cheaper without the USB.
This is the Mic and the power amp is here
Recording on a budget with an XLR mic needs at minimum a mic preamp circuit and some level adjustment. See this option. To get everything into a computer with one piece step up to this for a few dollars more
Edit: this option is even cheaper.
The Scarlett Audio interface is a better option but twice the money.
Definitely go with something XLR based, since USB usually can't offer the same quality at the same price (even for a whole setup.)
Though I say that ATR2100 is something I keep recommending because it is both XLR and USB, and has very good quality (per quick youtube search) for the price. It's also a dynamic microphone, so it will pick up less background noise and other things dynamic mics do.
As for a stand I have been using this boom arm for almost two years, and have absolutely no issues with it except for a minor squeak when putting it away (not really an issue you're going to have if you're using it) and as much as people like them, pop filters are not really neccisary, just talk with the mic a bit to the side and you're fine (don't waste the $8 I did).
All in all both the atr2100 and the stand will run you about $100, and it is pretty damn good quality for that price.
I would reccomend an XLR interface in the future though, since they do live mixing, built in EQ, better gain control, better sound quality, and a built in DAC for your headphones, but that's around $50-$80 for either of my decent interface choices: the Q802USB Which I am currently using, or a Q502USB which If it's anything like the 802 is cheaper and just as good (albiet with less inputs, but you probably don't need 8 inputs).
How about this setup?
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2035-Diaphragm-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B00D6RMFG6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1453596213&sr=8-2&keywords=microphone+audio+technica
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q502USB-5-Channel-Mixer/dp/B00CTKI10A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1426532990&sr=8-3&keywords=behringer+xenyx+usb
That would be just over $200. But how does the interface connect to the computer? Is it just USB or some audio jack?
You need two 1/4 inch TRS cables like these
a mixer/sound card is required, and if you're connecting to your computer A usb mixer would make everything much simpler. But, if you want balanced (XLR) connections, I'd look to get the Q802 for ~20 bucks more. If you plan on using longer cables, the balanced outputs of the Q802 could help reduce noise (which the LSR-305s already have enough of).
Then you just plug the TRS cables to the 1/4 inch "MAIN OUT" on the Q502, then connect to the 1/4 inch unbalanced input on the back of the 305s, and you're set.
To add by the way, I would definitely recommend this over the mixer you have listed for one key reason: if you just get one extra audio cable, you won't have to worry about using Voicemeeter or similar software to record Discord/Skype separate to your game audio. I could elaborate further on that if needed.
60$ https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q502USB-Xenyx/dp/B00CTKI10A/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1508983694&sr=1-1&keywords=q502usb
80$. https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q802USB-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B008O517IC/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1508983894&sr=1-1&keywords=q802usb
These are pretty good, second one brings a compressor built in. I personally use (100$)https://www.guitarcenter.com/Alesis/Mixers.gc#/Alesis/MultiMix-4-USB-FX-4-Channel-Mixer-with-Effects-USB-Audio-Interface.gc
Idk any of under 30$ but
[This]
(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CTKI10A/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_pa_3?pf_rd_p=1944687582&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000J5UEGQ&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=01WDPEDR207DHMSRH7G3)
will work
The KRK Rokit 5 G3 Pair
So if I got something like the KRK RP5G3-NA, I wouldn't need anything other than the Schiit stack?
I have KRK Rokit 5s and use the Klipsch R12SW subwoofer.
My question is, what level should I set the LF Level Adjust on my Rokits so that they least conflict with my sub? Also, I know this comes down to personal preference but what would recommended settings be for Gain and Low Pass with my sub? I listen primarily to bass heavy dance music if that makes any difference.
They look like the KRK Rokit 5's connected to the PC with the Scarlette 2i2 Preamp. Its the exact Audio set up Ive been meaning to get for a while haha How do you like them?
I Don't know what type of speakers you want and what is your budget but, if you want a studio speaker then I can definitely recommend
KRK Rokit 5
The cables are around $15, nothing to worry about.
I would get any good studio monitors for $300 that are recommended as the best here on reddit.com. I think the US version is $300 for the exact same speakers on amazon.com but could be wrong.
https://www.amazon.com/KRK-RP5G3-NA-Generation-Powered-Monitor/dp/B00FX7MMRO/
PS: and you can upgrade with a sub woofer later on that fits the speakers later on if you have money then.
I would invest the $300 for active speakers plus $15 for cables. Going lower is kind of expensive, as you get not good sound and therefore "expensive" for the value you get.
I am no expert by any means, but even low end producer monitors will cost more than that.
There are some DJ monitors you can get for the money, which should be fine if you are just djing. But if you plan on making music, I'd suggest you way a bit and save up some money to get something like this
https://www.amazon.com/KRK-RP5G3-NA-Generation-Powered-Monitor/dp/B00FX7MMRO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479260183&sr=8-3&keywords=monitor+speakers
They are pretty common and loved as a beginner set of monitors.
Yamaha HS series is also much loved, an upgrade compared to the ones above if you ask me.
You will probably be better off getting some good 2nd hand speakers for now while you save up.
Hey guys, I'm looking to buy my first studio monitors. I'm not a pro or anything, just an amateur bedroom producer, but I've stumbled upon some questions.
I'll get right to it.
​
That's all..
No problem, just recommendations and pointers.
I'm really liking the ART tube preamp/comp to interface option. Especially for toying around with. Idk if that interface is a solid choice. I'm not really using it for anything other than the analog to digital conversion I believe. Now that I'm looking at it seems the Scarlett solo would be a high quality option. 192 kHz vs 48khz sample rate.
https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B07QR6Z1JB/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Scarlett+solo&qid=1567711187&s=gateway&sr=8-3
edit: I added some additional details to the original post.
i recommend the scarlet (solo) its only 109 USD https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B07QR6Z1JB/ref=dp_ob_title_ce
some of these foam panel squares would help, but not be totally soundproof.
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Acoustic-Panels-Studio-Wedges/dp/B010GPFRUQ/
also, changing the door to this room from hollow core, to a solid door will do wonders.
if you own the place, and want to get renovation crazy, there are other options.
I got some super cheap padding stuff on Amazon and I cut it up and put it in there so it doesn't rattle. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Acoustic-Panels-Studio-Wedges/dp/B010GPFRUQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2YWFNFVJC03JM&keywords=studio+foam+wedges&qid=1556172085&s=gateway&sprefix=studio+foam+wed%2Caps%2C125&sr=8-3
​
That being said, I don't think the dice are gonna get scratched either way. I'm just paranoid.
No, it works like the interface down there. It's so you can connect an XLR compatible mic or instrument to your PC for recording in audio and video software, so unless your going to be recording to your PC with an XLR it's not that worth it. And with the DR-40 you can still just record then copy it over with the SD card!
https://www.amazon.ca/Focusrite-SCARLETT-SOLO-3RD-GEN-USB-Audio-Interface/dp/B07QR6Z1JB/ref=asc_df_B07QR6Z1JB/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=341830543675&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16691777206743157811&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001050&hvtargid=pla-781084951088&psc=1
While the iRig is ok writing demos and stuff like that you might want to use something like the focusrite solo 3 generation. Here’s the link to it
https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B07QR6Z1JB/ref=sr_1_3?crid=I9KNOWB55FRJ&keywords=focusrite+scarlett+solo&qid=1568289323&sprefix=Focusrite+%2Caps%2C273&sr=8-3
Yeah I know these aren't REAL bass traps or broadband absorbers, but considering the benefit that this simple kit gives, its a pretty good value:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TT7BGQM/
and
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010GPFRUQ/
I made my own bass traps which outperform these and cost less. But if you were on a budget and wanted a noticable improvement, I would buy these.
Focusrite Scarlett Solo (3rd Gen) USB Audio Interface with Pro Tools
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QR6Z1JB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CFyIDb5J813TA
This should do everything you need: https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B07QR6Z1JB/.
So I've been trying to find the JDS Labs Atom amp for a bit and I was wondering if you had a link or a link to one you'd use? Edit: is this the focusrite one you were talking about? Focusrite Scarlett Solo (3rd Gen) USB Audio Interface with Pro Tools | First https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QR6Z1JB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EIInDbF52VAXR
cigarettes after sex (based on the songs ive heard), drown their instruments in a heavy reverb, probably some other effects too that i cant be sure of (maybe a filter, to make their sounds sound kinda lofi/old. and maybe a little delay to go w/ the reverb, etc).
idk really but i'd probably just try to recreate one of their songs urself in a DAW and see what u learn from it.
and in regards to the mic, you dont really need a mic, you can use a usb audio interface (like this one or this one, which is more popular & expensive) to plug the guitar directly into the computer (for alot cheaper than you would probably get 4 a mic).
also idk if you need all the pedals & shit, maybe you want to but in a DAW (FL studio, logic, ableton, etc) you can add pedal effects (reverb, delay, distortion, etc etc) that come with the DAW to the guitar audio signal coming into the computer.
I can still hear the sirens aloud, but better than having nothing on my window. This is my setup around the window AC. I've used 1 sheet of bass wood(bought it from blicks)+3 layers of cardboard+acoustic panel (really thin, it's basically a sponge, but it helps with sound not bouncing around the window sills) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010GPFRUQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
so i guess, in total, that is about 2~3 inches of thickness.
I do not believe so. Every piece of foam you put up helps. Even if it's incomplete. They literally suck in the sound, absorbing it completely. That is if you get the proper ones.
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Acoustic-Panels-Studio-Wedges/dp/B010GPFRUQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1502819427&sr=1-3&keywords=soundproofing
http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-your-own-soundproof-studio-in-11-easy-steps/
Honestly, as far as sound quality goes, most modern interfaces (excluding the REALLY cheap ones) will have more than adequate preamps in them. Here is a good article that may help you choose the interface that's best for you.
Personally, I really like Focusrite's Scarlett series, so the Scarlett Solo may be a good choice for you if you don't plan on using more than one microphone at a time. It's small, and entirely powered by USB, so it's easily portable. However, I'm probably biased towards gear I already own, so I would encourage you to do your own research as well.
https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B07QR6Z1JB/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=focusrite+scarlett+solo&qid=1574492982&sprefix=focus&sr=8-3
It’s for my shure mic, this mic is amazing (it’s what shroud and a lot of other streamers use) but it is a bit of a pain to setup for streaming if you’re brand new. Overall to make the mic work it costs about 1k due to cords, mic, mic stand, etc. Was it worth it? If you have the money yes. Overall for my setup which isn’t even very good it’s about 6k ish
I can't say since I never listened to it. Most headphone amps have a certain sound so I can't comment on that. The manufacturer states though that the Scarlett can power up to 250 Ohms so it could work depending on the impedance level of your headphones.
Source: Seen in the "Customer questions & answers" section of [ https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B07QR6Z1JB/ ]
Check their website, there may be some software you can get there. Also, using a muff or pop filter can help to reduce the background noise.
Another thing is that you have a condenser microphone and it functions differently than a dynamic mic. Here is a Youtube video about the differences: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y01N_L1VA4I The part you want to pay attention to is after 2:14 but the first of the video is a good education into the actual differences.
Lastly, if you are using it for streaming or video editing types of activities, you should invest in some sound deadening material for the surrounding area. Things like the foam you see in the radio studios, really absorb sound well. Here's a suggestion for that: https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Acoustic-Panels-Studio-Wedges/dp/B010GPFRUQ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=noise+foam&qid=1572765375&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-4
I've got a pair of studio monitors with balanced TRS and XLR ins that are hand-me-downs from a friend. I'm hunting for the best solution to get them up and running for under or close to $100. These two (Behringer UMC22 & Focusrite Scarlett Solo) have been interesting, but I'd much prefer something that will cut the studio monitors when I plug in headphones (ideally with a 1/4 in jack, but that's not vital), or at least allow me to turn down the monitors separately from the headphones. The Scarlett 2i2 will allow me to control both levels separately, but it's a bit over my budget, and I won't be doing any recording, so I'm wondering if there's something out there that's more focused towards my use case.
If you want good mic quality, I suggest an audio interface with a pro microphone. The internal DAC in any of those audio interfaces would work great, but none of the audio interfaces have headphone amplifiers so you would need to take that into consideration when picking a headphone. They have a headphone output, but not good enough for power hungry headphones. Here is what I suggest for a good setup I believe you would be happy with:
Speakers (based off of what size you seem to be looking for):
- Vanatoo Transparent Zeros (Expensive, but fantastic sounding speakers). $360 New or $320 for "B" Stock (Refurbished)
- Audioengine A2+ (The one you suggested) = $220
- Audioengine A2+ Wireless (If you want reduced wires) = $270
- Kanto YU2 (Similar in size to the A2+, but more color options and slightly less connectivity options) = $220
- Kanto YU4 (Larger than the YU2 and more connectivity options, but for this price, I would get the Vanatoo's by far for sound quality) = $350
​
Headphone:
Sennheiser HD58X (High impedence headphone, but most people who use these say they work well without a headphone amp) - $160
Can be found on www.drop.com
​
Mic, Interface, Boom Arm combos:
- Combo Audio Technica AT2020, Behringer UMC202HD Interface, boom arm and XLR cable - $215
- Combo Audio Technica AT2020, Scarlett Solo 3rd Gen Interface, boom arm and XLR cable - $230
- Combo Audio Technica AT2020, Presonus AudioBox USB 96 2x2 Interface, boom arm and XLR cable - $189
​
Mic:
Audio Techica AT2020 - $120
​
Audio Interface:
Steinberg UR22 Mk II - $150
Scarlett Solo 3rd Gen - $110
Mackie Onyx Artist - $130
Behringer U-Phoria UMC202HD - $100
​
Boom Arm:
I have no suggestions for this.
I’m looking to get a Focusrite Scarlet Solo or 2i2
Neewer® NB-35 Black... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01GRMF5ZE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Neewer mic stand with pop filter is $13 on Amazon
Neewer NB-35 Black Microphone Suspension Boom Scissor Arm Stand with Mic Clip Holder and Table Mounting Clamp & NW(B-3) Black Pop Filter Windscreen Mask Shield with Stand Clip Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GRMF5ZE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_n0Sozb9GDVPCG
How about this ones?
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Microphone-Suspension-Mounting-Windscreen/dp/B01GRMF5ZE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542401607&sr=8-3&keywords=microphone+stand+with+pop+filter
you could get a mic stand for the nano because it has the tread. This is what I'm talking about for the desk stand, but if you are on a desk or tabletop I would recommend you get a mic arm, like this one by Neewer and it also comes with a pop-filter.
Depends on your total budget, but my best advice for a relatively cheap starter set for bringing your audio setup up to a solid standard on a stationary desktop PC goes like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XCKGLTP/ - Fifine cardioid USB condenser mic
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GRMF5ZE/ - Neewer mic boom arm and pop filter
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BDX1IVW/ - Status Audio CB-1 closed back headphones
Total price - $111 USD
Don't worry about an external audio interface until you're looking at a proper professional setup or are having specific audio issues that require you to move your audio processing solution to the outside of your PC case. I've been into desktop audio for a few years now and this is my ultimate "bang for your buck" setup I recommend to people looking to get away from gaming headsets while keeping to a gaming headset budget. I have a couple of friends now running this setup and they love it. The mic is nice and clear, the boom lets you get it out of the way and have it wherever you like and the headphones sound great and are incredibly comfortable for long ass listening or gaming sessions. There's no XLR adaption to worry about and everything will plug straight into your PC as it stands right now.
PC - HP Omen 870-244
VR - HP Mixed Reality
Headset - Astro A40 TR + Mixamp
Left Monitor - HP Omen 27” - 165hz 1440p
Right Monitor - ASUS 27” - 60hz 1080p
Mic - Blue Yeti Blackout
Neweer Mic Arm and Pop Filter
Auphonix Mic Shockmount
KB - Corsair Strafe Red
Mouse - Steel Series R100
Glorious PC Gaming Wrests
You won't necessarily get rid of those noises buy paying more for a mic. Pickup Pattern, mic placement, and room treatment will be more effective than anything else. That being said there is only so much you can do to move a blue yeti closer to your mouth. I would consider getting a mic that you can put on a boom (like this one) so you can position it closer to your mouth, then angling the mic so that it's pickup pattern is facing away from all other devices.
You still won't get rid of the clicks and computer noise, as they will always be in your room.
EDIT: as far as 100 dollar mics go, the AT2020 is fantastic for vocals, and partnering that with a shock mount and a boom arm would be a good solution. Note: This mic requires phantom power, which means you would also need an interface.
I use something like this, but it depends on your needs https://smile.amazon.com/Neewer-Microphone-Suspension-Mounting-Windscreen/dp/B01GRMF5ZE
This cheap one
The two types of mic stands that would likely work best for you would be either a desk mounted boom arm, or tripod boom arm
The most popular I believe would be this one here from Neewer, which I have personally used and is quite nice (and comes with a pop filter as a bonus)
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Microphone-Suspension-Mounting-Windscreen/dp/B01GRMF5ZE/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1520786135&sr=8-5&keywords=boom+arm
But if you willing to dish out a good bit more money Rode makes one that overall just tends to have a little more quality to it
https://www.amazon.com/RODE-Swivel-Mount-Studio-Microphone/dp/B001D7UYBO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1520786135&sr=8-4&keywords=boom+arm
Alternatively, you could get a tripod boom arm, which doesn't require being attached to the desk but is a tiny bit more difficult to get situated in a better spot.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Tripod-Boom-Microphone-Stand/dp/B019NY2PKG/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1520786232&sr=1-3&keywords=mic+stand
I might add though that none of these come with is called a shock mount, which is an anti-vibration mount that actually connects the mic to the stand
https://www.amazon.com/Mugig-Recording-Broadcasting-Suspension-Microphone/dp/B078Z75C8W/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1520786604&sr=1-3&keywords=mic+shock+mount
This one will work, and on the upside also comes with a slightly different kind of pop filter if you wanted to try something a little different, or if the stand you choose doesn't come with one.
For keyboards, the smaller in size you go often the cheaper the keyboards become.
https://i.pinimg.com/originals/5c/40/ab/5c40abb3225a2d4dbcfcbffbf547e094.jpg
Corsair keyboard are some of my favorite pre-built keyboards because their new CUE 2 software lets you program any key you want and have as many key profiles as you want, so if you get a smaller size keyboard you can always program in the extra keys you may have lost.
to which end this keyboard is likely one of the cheapest ones I can find right now.
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Mechanical-Keyboard-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B00S9AAKA8/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1520787827&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=corsair+keyboard&psc=1
Alternatively, there are a good number of budget options listed here on this buying guide on r/mechanicalkeyboards
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/wiki/buying_guide
As for mousepads, you can just search "extended mousepad" or "full desk mousepad" and you'll get a good number of options.
A few companies I know that make quality ones are Corsair again, reflex labs, ankor, steelseries, and glorious pc gaming race
The last mention there from what I've heard seems to be the highest quality overall, though personally, I use this pad here as it's got a little more height to it
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072BQH7R8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Once again, I'd be glad to help with any further questions or anything!
LOL, here's the desk stand https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Microphone-Suspension-Mounting-Windscreen/dp/B01GRMF5ZE/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1520651175&sr=1-2&keywords=NEEWER&refinements=p_n_shipping_option-bin%3A3242350011
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Microphone-Suspension-Mounting-Windscreen/dp/B01GRMF5ZE Same arm but I don't have the pop filter
Neewer NB-35 Black Microphone Suspension Boom Scissor Arm Stand with Mic Clip Holder and Table Mounting Clamp & NW(B-3) Black Pop Filter Windscreen Ma https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GRMF5ZE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_KJGa7hGaDYmgd
Neewer NB-35 Black Microphone Suspension Boom Scissor Arm Stand with Mic Clip Holder and Table Mounting Clamp & NW(B-3) Black Pop Filter Windscreen Mask Shield with Stand Clip Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GRMF5ZE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gk6XzbYPV2AH5
Yep. My desktop for recording and streaming. Our laptops for clips/music/soundbites and mine specifically for videos/clips (USB-C into the external monitor in between us).
Our board is the Yamaha MG16XU- solid ass on board preamps/compression/EQ: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/MG16XU--yamaha-mg16xu-16-channel-mixer-with-usb-and-fx
Alex and I use pop filters and a slightly off axis mic technique (the diaphragm is aimed from the side and directed toward our mouths — gets rid of plosives and mouth breathing). The pop filters came with our booms: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GRMF5ZE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nwLqDbG90FT8G
We round everything off by recording into Reaper (it’s free — winrar style) adding a bit more EQing, compression, noise gate, de-essing and hard limiters to bring the overall volume to broadcast levels.
Our livestream setup is just two gropros plugged directly into the desktop.
Thought as much
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GRMF5ZE/ref=oh_aui_i_d_rec_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cheap and easy. Holds my Yeti perfectly!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GRMF5ZE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1510000846&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=neweer+mic+stand&dpPl=1&dpID=41IzcBiQ9jL&ref=plSrch
You in Canada? If so try this it fits my Blue Yeti so it should fit a Snowball https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01GRMF5ZE/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1523417181&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=boom+arm&dpPl=1&dpID=41VmBe-tE2L&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.it/gp/aw/d/B01GRMF5ZE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?__mk_it_IT=ÅMÅZÕÑ&qid=1486490590&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=neewer+braccio&dpPl=1&dpID=41IzcBiQ9jL&ref=plSrch is this gonna work with my Snowball microphone, because some people say it work with blue microphone and someone say not, can someone explain?
I also had the mod mic and was not liking the quality of it in the vids I did on twitch or YT. What I ended up going with is the AT2020 USB Plus so far I have been really happy with it. I did get an [el cheapo arm] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GRMF5ZE/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) do yourself the favor and get a better arm than the el cheapo it does the job but it sucks lol. The Rode PSA1 is the arm I would get (I do plan on it when funds come available).
I have the newer boom arm, which my friend also bought from Amazon. Even if it says it is not for the blue yeti, it is a lie. The blue getting has the proper threading to screw directly into the boom arms but if you want the shock mount you will have to pay more than $30.
Below is the link to Amazons boom arm with a pop filter for the first link and the 2nd is of the blue yeti shock mount plastic version.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GRMF5ZE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1505963172&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=neewer+microphone+suspension+boom+scissor+arm+stand&dpPl=1&dpID=41IzcBiQ9jL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BFY6AEO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505963280&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=blue+yeti+shockmount+and+arm&dpPl=1&dpID=41Fr7AoF5LL&ref=plSrch
Sorry, about links, on mobile.
It's the same one Manak1n posted. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GRMF5ZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you're talking about their newer set (#412) then this reddit post says it's this model. Their older set (say, #312) seems to use the rode desk clamp stand whereas even older (#280) just seems to use a generic clamp stand like this neewer.
Enough people have the blue yeti that you should be able to google around for each mic stand to see if it'll support the weight.
I was thinking of buying some of these.
Is that not good enough?
edit: or maybe the 2" variety...
Stay away from the boom as well. It uses and internal spring system and if it breaks.. you need a new boom.
Here is a good Boom filter combo.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neewer-Microphone-Suspension-Mounting-Windscreen/dp/B01GRMF5ZE/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1487782792&sr=1-2&keywords=neewer+boom+arm
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor | $199.88 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | Gigabyte - X470 AORUS ULTRA GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard | $139.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $209.95 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $99.99 @ Samsung
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $59.79 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB ACX 2.0 Video Card | $189.99 @ B&H
Case | NZXT - S340 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $53.98 @ Newegg
Monitor | LG - 24UD58-B 23.8" 3840x2160 60Hz Monitor | $270.88 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Corsair - STRAFE Wired Gaming Keyboard | $69.99 @ Amazon
Mouse | Logitech - G502 Proteus Spectrum Wired Optical Mouse | $49.99 @ Amazon
Speakers | Logitech - Z323 30W 2.1ch Speakers | $44.97 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1489.39
| Mail-in rebates | -$40.00
| Total | $1449.39
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-05-02 13:59 EDT-0400 |
I bumped it up a little to do a little future proofing. This should be able to handle everything you need; games at 4k Ultra Settings @60+fps and some busy FL Studio files. If you wanted to come in cheaper, I would search for a different monitor (unless you are committed to 4k, you could easily save $200 here to just go with 1080p), drop to 2x4GB RAM instead of 2x8GB (If you have LARGE files on FL Studio, you MIGHT need 16GB; dropping would save around $60), and you could probably even get away with the 2GB 1050 instead of the 4GB (would save you $50).
As for the keyboard/mice/speakers. I'm a snob about speakers and don't care for mice and keyboards. I would rather do some nice headphones and cheaper/basic mice/keyboard.
EDIT:
I double backed, removed the peripherals and doubled down on some other things. If you truly want a machine that works for both, I would recommend adding some nice Studio Monitors, Open Back Headphones, a Mechanical Keyboard, and then a basic mouse with a few bells and whistles.
I really like this combo Ryzen + Mobo. There is also a Ryzen 2700 variant too if you do want to go all the way with the CPU. Again I'll say you could do 2x4GB RAM and not notice any issues.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor | $199.88 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | $77.39 @ Newegg Business
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $209.95 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $99.99 @ Samsung
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $59.79 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB SSC GAMING ACX 3.0 Video Card | $229.72 @ OutletPC
Case | NZXT - S340 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic - Platinum 400W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular Fanless ATX Power Supply | $95.64 @ Newegg Business
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1072.35
| Mail-in rebates | -$40.00
| Total | $1032.35
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-05-02 23:32 EDT-0400 |
Get one of these they'll last you way longer.
Why not use actual studio quality recording monitors?
Krk Rockits
Better audio response. Only downside is you'll more than likely have to purchase a powered audio interface to be able to push them.
These are the headphones i use to mix when I can't use my speakers. I highly recommend them as a cheap alternative to an expensive investment like speakers.
Anyone know anything about these PreSonus Eris E4.5's? Seems like a good enough deal at the same price as the Mackie CR4's.
I'm having issues with my speakers/sub combo. I have the Presonus Eris 4.5 and recently bought Dayton Audio Sub 800. The sub is wired directly to my PC using an RCA cable and I bought Speaker Wire to RCA cables to connect the "High Level Output" from the sub to the speakers' "Input".
The wiring makes sense to me but I'm not getting any sound on my speakers. I'm getting sound on the sub though. Is my new sub messed up or is it something with the wiring? I have tried two different sets of speaker wire to RCA cables.
Saw the Presonus Eris 4.5s for $50USD off as a Prime Day Deal - https://www.amazon.com/PreSonus-Eris-E4-5-Powered-Monitors/dp/B00GP56OYA
First time posting here. I'm thinking of moving from a 2.1 speaker setup to monitor speakers. Right now I have a Microlabs FC330 setup (16 watts), and I'm looking to buy a pair of Mackie CR5BT speakers (50 watts). I plan on using them for my desktop PC but since it has Bluetooth, I could use my phone or laptop with them, probably. Is this a good purchase? There's a cheaper version that uses 4" drivers, and I want to know if it's worth going for the full 5" drivers for around £50 more.
There's also an alternative: PreSonus Ceres C4.5 BT. Apparently Mackie have a good reputation, so I thought I should ask in a sub where people understand sound and sound quality.
Also, do I really need a subwoofer? Would these monitor speakers serve me well compared to my old setup? Thanks in advance.
Thanks for the information.
I've read shaky things about the 2i2, but I don't have enough knowledge to know just how bad/applicable to my case they are.
Could you tell me in detail why you'd prefer that Behringer audio interface over the 2i2? They both look great and in my price range.
Also, could you recommend some studio monitors to works as my cabinets?
Do you think a pair of PreSonus Eris E4.5 would be good for djent/modern metal, jazz, classical tones?
I'm using a Strandberg Boden 7 Standard if that helps.
https://www.amazon.com/PreSonus-Eris-E4-5-Powered-Monitors/dp/B00GP56OYA
Edifier has bass n treble controls..............
https://www.amazon.de/PreSonus-Eris-4-5-Studiomonitor-Paar/dp/B00GP56OYA
Looks like that Vizio model I talked about is no longer on sale. However, it's bigger brother can be had for $241 refurb.
If you don't care about bass or surround sound, and just want stereo speakers that sound much better, you could get something like these for $200 (the E4.5 option). They can plug into the RCA outs on your tv.
i'm actually looking into getting something like a set of these in replacement of the fender passport, since i record music as well. is this a good idea, since monitors have balanced sound? btw, i'm definitely gonna take you up on the turntable and $55 preamp for sure, thank you so much for that reccomendation.
I'd rather get these and a cheap sub when you can afford it.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/PreSonus-Ceres-C4-5-loudspeakers-Built-/dp/B00GP56OYA/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1458663794&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=eris+e5
I am looking at powered speakers. I will be using these mainly for listening to music in my office. Source will be my PC, and hopefully, eventually a vinyl setup. I have max $150 to spend. I am looking at a powered setup for simplicity. I could probably be swayed into an amp/non powered combo, but I think it's a stretch at $150. I need something good for all genres of music, good bass, I understand a 2.0 bookshelf setup won't be like have a separate subwoofer. I have been going back and forth among about 10 pair of speakers and I just can't make a decision.
Here's the list:
Thonet and Vander Kurbis BT Bluetooth Bookshelf Speakers, Hi-Fi Wooden Bluetooth Stereo Speakers with Enhanced Bass, 300 Watt Peak Power, Integrated Amplifier and RCA Input, 1 Pair, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HG1JOVC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DSHAzb60E38WB
Edifier R1280T Powered Bookshelf Speakers - 2.0 Active Near Field Monitors - Studio Monitor Speaker - Wooden Enclosure - 42 Watts RMS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016P9HJIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kTHAzb4S1S3GF
PreSonus Eris E4.5 2-Way Powered Studio Monitors (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GP56OYA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YTHAzbJ09ARQC
Mackie CR4 (Pair) Creative Reference Multimedia Monitor - Set of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVEIY4O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iUHAzbAVD4RB0
Edifier R1010BT - 4" Bluetooth Wireless Creative Reference Multimedia Monitors - Studio Monitor Speaker (Pair) 24 Watts RMS - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071YV97LK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zUHAzbNHTFE9G
Plugable 4" Subwoofer Bluetooth 2-Channel Powered Bookshelf Studio Monitor Speakers - Optical & RCA Aux Inputs, 55W Output Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KGPEW70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2UHAzb0R24FK0
Presonus Ceres C3.5BT 2-Way Powered Speakers with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N55NS4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uVHAzbATXGVCP
Pair Rockville APM5B 5.25" 2-Way 250W Powered USB Studio Monitor Speakers+Pads https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D3Z3FGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MVHAzbKMSC2QP
Please help me stop going in circles. I know some of these are more than $150...just hoping to catch a sale.
I would recommend staying away from audioengine, there are better options for the price.
$120 - Micca PB42x: These will sounds better than the Audioengine A2+R, but the build quality is not the greatest. These are 'the baseline' for cheap speakers that sound decent.
$200 - PreSonus Eris 4.5: These will provide more bass and sound better overall than the Audioengine A2+R. Build quality is very good on these as well.
$283 - JBL LSR305 + $120 - Scarlett 2i2 + $16 - 2x(XLR to TRS cable): This setup is amazing for the cost. I have been using the JBL LSR305 for quite a while now and they never disappoint. I've heard better, but those speakers are way more expensive. These can be connected directly to your computer through a 2xTRS to 1/8" cable, but I don't recommend it. When I tried that the speakers produced a terrible hissing noise. I recommend the Scarlett 2i2 over other audio interfaces due to its reliability, balanced speaker outs, and great mic pre-amps if you ever decide to get a XLR mic down the road. The cables are needed to connect the speakers to the interface.
Hey guys, I'm looking to expand from mixing with headphones and getting some studio monitors for my setup.
I use FL Studio\Ableton to produce, and these are the monitors\DAC I plan on grabbing. Pretty entry level stuff, but they are well reviewed. Am I missing anything or should these pieces do the trick?
PreSonus Eris E4.5 2-Way Powered Studio Monitors
I think a shotgun microphone should help here along with some blankets or acoustic treatment. You can pick up this shotgun microphone and some isolation to try and get that noise dampened. This will work if you are recording to a camera with a mic input, but if you don’t have a microphone input you can pick up this recorder which will also double as a recording interface. If you need to place your mic further away from your camera or recorder, this cord will give you some length to position it where you need. This is really nice if your camera is a few feet or more away from where you’ll be while shooting, as an added bonus the closer you place your microphone to your subject, the better it will pick sound and reject sounds you don’t want.
The shotgun mic should reject sound coming from the sides and pickup clear audio from the front. Place this close to your mouth and you’re good to go. I use a shotgun microphone to record voiceovers and videos at my desk because just like your place, it seems like my neighbors are always doing something loud. It’s useful to check your audio with some headphones to hear what background noise you might be picking up, then adjust.
If you’re still getting noise you’ll need to pick a time where you can record that you know to be more quiet. It’s a bit of a pain but unfortunately most home productions have to work around some sort of obstacle, just don’t let it keep you from making some videos!
It's this stand with this isolation shield.
The booth is 2m tall, but I'm kinda short at 5'6" so it's plenty tall enough for me.
Glad I could help! And no, just putting your mic in the corner won't help. You have to find a way to get that corner and ceiling padded with something. I've made vocal booths out of cardboard and cheap sound proofing. Not recommended. Something I bought not too long ago has been working surprisingly well.
I use that, then put a sound proof panel over the top. I was certain I was wasting my money on a quick fix but I don't regret it in the slightest. Put THAT in the corner and you've got some results. Need a good quality heavy mic stand though so it can add up for me when I was dirt poor haha. Obviously if you're screaming a loud main vocal line from 6 feet away from the mic you're still going to get room sound, but is worth the investment for the improvement I saw.
I hear you with the intonation problem. Bought a cheap classical 6 months ago that sounds beautiful, but the cheapness shows through there. It's a shame you would have to change any bit of that song to compensate for quality equipment.
I honestly don't know which mic to recommend for you. Sound like you're using a condenser? I usually recommend dynamic but I love how lo-fi it sounds. You've heard of Dr. Dog right? That song screamed early day Dr. Dog. Lo-fi for a reason, not because you don't know what you're doing. (even if you don't lol)
I'm shocked you are using garage band. Biggest mistake I see with people new to production is everything is too loose and floppy with the starts and stop of instruments. Yours is very tight and holds the idea of the song very well. I can groove on it without cringing at slightly misplaced strums or bass lines. For not knowing much about mixing this is very impressive.
It has a very intimate "I'm talented and getting by with what I can to make good music" feel. The only issue I see is that this seems like the song on the album that deviates from having a full band and is a novel clap and snap acoustic bit to shake things up. I hope to hear you change it up enough through out your material because that might be difficult. I didn't say that though. No obstacles. Keep making it!
EDIT: Don't go buying the link I sent you without researching what you're getting, I might have linked you one to sit on a desk or something. But that is the brand I have.
If you're just recording vocals, I recommend one of these guys:
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-602650-Microphone-Isolation-Shield/dp/B00GR9W1MS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474015464&sr=8-1&keywords=vocal+isolation
That's the one I use/used in my apartment when recording vocals and worked rather well. There's cheaper ones out there, I just bought this one because I found it on sale on (I think MF).
Get something like https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-602650-Microphone-Isolation-Shield/dp/B00GR9W1MS. It'll be way better than using the acoustic foam panels to your walls (they're also a bitch to put up).
thanks for the recommendation. wouldn't a large diaphragm mic pick up a lot of ambient reflections? i record in a big room with pretty bare walls. treating it is just way too expensive, even hanging up cheap thrift store rugs.
i've been borrowing an MXL 990, a sub $100 large diaphragm condenser, which sounds great but picks up so much resonance. if i layer several guitar/vocal tracks with it, everything sounds far away and cheap due to all the reflections.
i was thinking about getting one of these mic shields with the large diaphragm mic and literally standing my mattress up directly behind me to catch some of the reflections. i don't really have a lot of ideas left
This is the one I and a few other people I know use. I think it does the job quite well, however it is a bit on the heavy side, so you will need a sturdy mic stand. Definitely in your price range too.
Nah like this https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Microphone-Isolation-Shield-Absorbing/dp/B00GR9W1MS
There is really no good "cheap" solution, but there are a couple that would likely work well.
This seems to be the most popular option: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-602650-Microphone-Isolation-Shield/dp/B00GR9W1MS/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1491281681&sr=1-3&keywords=Microphone+Isolation+Shield
Obviously, this creates a problem because you can't look at your co-hosts, but it could dramatically increase the quality of your audio and save you a lot of post-production clean up.
[edit] Just realized you're recording both you and your co-host at the same time on the single mic. As others have noted (especially with that mic) this is going to be noise no matter what. So, just reconjigger my comments so that they better apply to your set up. Or something. I'm so tired I have no idea what I'm saying.
Here's one and here's another, both called different things. There's another called "isolation box". But it's exactly what you've got there - acoustic diffusion foam affixed to the inside of a box or to a plastic shield.
Thank you for the feedback, good sirs.
I actually made a ghetto ass "recording box." I got a large paper box (like the ones from office max that have 12 reems of paper in them) and treated it. I glued a bunch of foam in it and put my mic in it. It does require that I sit down while I record though.
I also run a heavy hiss reduction after i record too. If you guys have some extra cash, either treat the room or buy one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-602650-Microphone-Isolation-Shield/dp/B00GR9W1MS/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1480448372&sr=1-4&keywords=recording+studio+equipment
I see, sorry.
For the noise, especially with real time audio like Skype is, there's not much you can do besides quiet down your room or rearrange it so that the noise is diminished. You might have luck with something like this but it's not exactly desktop-friendly like I imagine your setup needs to be.
For preamp recommendations, I need to ask a few questions.
Get an acoustic shield, it's a very easy and portable way to get good sound from an untreated room. I use this one with my condenser mic in a similar room and it sounds great: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GR9W1MS/
We have threads for this every monday and thursday.
But to answer your question, if you're trying to reduce noise, a better mic won't do much. Read the sidebar to learn about dynamic/condenser/ribbon mics; in a noisy environment, a dynamic mic will pick up the least noise. The e945 will sound a little better, but it won't reduce noise.
There's nothing wrong with your interface. How is it holding you back?
On a budget in an unmodifiable place, if it's just one person, these are handy for noise reduction.
OK, but how is this better than something like the VOX amPlug I already have?
Yeah, Vox makes them in that format specifically for bass as well as a headphone version that runs under $100.
Long ago, Fender made these micro amps. I still have a guitar one that works just as well for bass if I need it to. Very limited features, naturally.
What OP is using is a Vox amPlug, or in his case, a copy. The thing (the one I have, at least) isn't really to die for, but it's a nifty gadget to always have in your gigbag, in case you need to hear yourself playing in emergency cases (like warming up backstage, etc).
IMHO, plugging it directly into the JBL might lack some processing, if I were to go the 1/4 to 1/8 way, I'd add something in front of it, like a small preamp pedal (in my case, I have an Eden WTDI, which I also take everywhere, since it's a lifesaver in cases of terrible amps when you depend on others' backlines).
Not sure if I have 1/4 to 1/8 cables at home to try out... When I'm there, I'll try with the amPlug and the Eden at least.
Get a Vox Amplug Bass G2 if you want a heightened headphone bass tone. It sounds damn close to an Ampeg SVT, best $50 I ever spent.
https://www.amazon.com/AP2BS-amPlug-Bass-Guitar-Headphone/dp/B00NAUKJTY
I use this
Not the best sound quality, but it works
Squier by Fender Affinity P/J Beginner Electric Bass Guitar Guitar - Rosewood Fingerboard, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5QMW3A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_IQBnzb0JSKX78
VOX AP2BS amPlug Bass G2 Guitar Headphone Amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAUKJTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_MRBnzb275JB51
Learn how to set the bass up from Dave's World of Fun Stuff on YouTube. Learn to play your favorite songs from YouTube. Learn to tune your bass by ear from YouTube. Good luck.
A VOX Amplug headphone amp is $45 and plugs right into the bass. Has built in drum loops and a metronome. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAUKJTY/ref=twister_B015IJIO5U?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
What is the difference between connecting my headphones to an amp and buying a headphone amp (e.g. Vox Amplug 2 Bass) and connecting my headphones to that?
Budget - ~$60 Australian dollars, I can spend a little more if there are more suitable headphones out of my price range. For Australian prices try ebay.com.au
Source Windows Desktop (realtek drivers), Macbook, Combination Record player/Amplifier from the 70's, phone occasionally, Headphone amplifier for Bass Guitar
Requirements for Isolation - None
Will you be using these Headphones in Public? - No
Preferred Type of Headphone - Full sized/on ear, comfort is a must
Preferred tonal balance - U-shaped, but bassy preferred
Past headphones - Sennheiser HD202, good headphones but they were not bassy enough. Also the construction of the headphones weren't that strong but they were comfortable enough. Current headphones - Sony MDR-ZX660, they've suited me exceptionally well for my needs, the bass is decent but not overpowering and they can also handle human voice pretty well. The only downside is they do get uncomfortable after long periods of use
Preferred Music - It has to stand up to the use of my Bass Guitar, as I run it through a headphone amplifier, A Vox AC30, I don't use any distortion effects. I usually listen to let's plays or streamers most days so it's mostly just the human voice. When I do feel like music it's sometimes chillstep or stuff like this Benga and Coki - Night. My vinyl collection is 80's pop mostly with some pink floyd and jethro tull.
What would you like to improve on from your set-up - My must haves are: A detachable headphone cord as I've broken my last 2 other sets because of the cord. Durability wouldn't go astray. Comfort, I use them everyday for 5+ hours. Ability to handle bass guitar would be a plus.
Notes I've looked through the $30 and $50 guides, I'm not sold on the Koss Portapro. The Superlux HD668B look pretty decent for what you get but reading the reviews I'm not sure how it'll handle my bass needs
I have one of the Vox mini pocket amps:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NAUKJTY
I wasn't overwhelmed, it seemed like the volume doesn't go high enough.
To be honest, I'm not sure /r/techsupport is the right sub for this. You might do better in /r/livesound.
A few things of note here.
You're getting that "hiss" because of line noise. The greater the gain, the more noise you'll hear.
The entire purpose of XLR is for balanced signals throughout the cable run. Balanced cable runs help to mitigate noise caused by electromagnetic interference.
The moment you introduced an unbalanced connection (the XLR->3.5mm cable to 3.5mm input) into the equation, that was effectively defeated.
There are other considerations here including knowing the difference between Mic Level Input and Line Level Input. However, in this specific situation, I'm going to point to a particular issue. Although the Behringer PS400 unit that you're using supplies Phantom Power to your microphone (which is needed for a Condenser microphone - but would not be needed for a Dynamic microphone), as far as I can tell, it does not supply any gain.
I would suggest a USB audio interface - either to act as a supplement to your PS400 unit or to replace it in entirety. I don't know what your budget is, but this Behringer unit might do the job.
----
Regarding the USB version of your microphone, my Google Searching is turning up numerous reports of issues with that microphone and Windows 8/8.1/10 - though some of them claim to have mitigated or resolved the issue by lowering the gain, and raising the recording volume to max.
What's your input source (PC, turntable, CD player, etc)? The D5s don't have an unbalanced (RCA) input, though you could use an RCA to 1/4" converter like this.
If your input source is a computer, you would be better off using a USB DAC or proper audio interface (with balanced outputs). Something like this or this.
The Vali 2 looks like a quality product, but it's a headphone amp and will not do much for you besides act as a volume control. The under-gained, small tube will add some (minimal) harmonic distortion, but it won't make the system sound "better."
Let me know what sources you intend to use and I can make some recommendations, if you like.
You need an audio interface instead of audiophile hardware.
I use this UMC204HD and I really like it, it powers my 250ohm DT770s just fine. I use it for gaming and music.
It meets most of your needs:
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC204HD-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00QHURLCW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474603481&sr=8-1&keywords=behringer+audio+interface
My power rail on my modular is supposed to have an integrated power filter. But I also installed noise suppressing socket in the case to help eliminate AC line noise from the 110 outlet.
I didn't have noise issues with my previous interface which was this guy
The one I have is this hunk o junk Im usuing temporarily.
I only get the high pitched squeal using this interface via USB. No noise when I run my synths into a mixer, PA or analogue recorders.
That mic is great, but you can get something like an SM57 much cheaper, if she's recording acoustic guitar.
If you want a pretty good vocal mic, that will also be cheapish you can get something like this.
Or just buy an sm58 which is a cheaper version of the other one you just showed, and is good for doing live stuff if you want to do that.
You can also get a 4x4 input thing so that she can multitrack into a daw, or just a smaller one if she's only ever going to record like 2 tracks at once.
I got something like this.
The SM57 and SM58 are pretty much standards in the music world.
That being said, IIRC the SM7b (the mic you're looking at) is what Micheal Jackson recorded a lot of his stuff on ( the bad album at least), so it's def pro level.
I recently bought a Lenovo Flex 14 for around $500 on amazon and it has worked out very well for my live band so far. I run backtracks and occasional realtime vocoding on it. I have also made it my main studio computer at this point as well. I use a behringer umc204hd interface for recording. Hasn't let me down yet.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PB5M8DS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC204HD-BEHRINGER/dp/B00QHURLCW/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=umc204hd&qid=1564685525&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-1
These (umc204 and umc404) do have the MIDI DIN in/out connectors.
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC204HD-BEHRINGER/dp/B00QHURLCW/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=behringer+uphoria+um2&qid=1561954038&s=gateway&sprefix=behringer+euph&sr=8-4
Beware, the cheaper interfaces mostly don't have MIDI DIN
You will have no ill effects. If you do plug in a mixer just make sure to set your gain staging correctly to avoid overloading your devices input and whatever you do DO NOT TURN PHANTOM POWER ON! You will potentially blow up the OP amp of whatever outboard gear you connect to it.
I would add though, if you're gonna drop $100 on device like that, why not spend the extra $20-30 on a 2 channel unit like this: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC204HD-BEHRINGER/dp/B00QHURLCW/ref=sxin_1_ac_d_rm?ac_md=2-2-bWF1ZGlvIGludGVyZmFjZQ%3D%3D-ac_d_rm&keywords=maudio&pd_rd_i=B00QHURLCW&pd_rd_r=6ac0e74a-9349-4277-a530-4ecf53a27259&pd_rd_w=H7uuW&pd_rd_wg=O1fIN&pf_rd_p=404c4843-2c96-4d0d-a5fe-2b0598693e61&pf_rd_r=STKYGDHY83H2TY0XJN6M&qid=1568618756
You get a far better and far more versatile unit for not much extra cost. There's other brands if you don't like Behringer that aren't that much more expensive either. I'm sure the unit you've linked will serve your function but there are far better units out there that aren't that much more expensive.
Some techno geeks will tell you otherwise, but you always want to Mic a guitar cab if you are recording with a good dedicated instrument Mic. I have one of [these:] (https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-Silver-Cardioid-Instrument-Microphone/dp/B0002GYSNC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499801289&sr=8-1&keywords=sennheiser+609) and it does a hell of a job for 100 dollars in my opinion. Research "how" to mic a cab as well before you begin.
After that, the "interface" is just basically an input that goes from the microphone cable to the computer. A good pre-amp here helps a lot with quality, but I bought this guy recently, and again, for that price, it kicks so much ass in my opinion. I don't see how it could be made any cheaper.
I think the main thing if you get more expensive with the interface you can A: get better preamps (probably not important to you if you are just getting into it and B: Record more inputs simultaneously. I have an 8 port one as well as the one I linked, and that's nice when the boys come over to crack a few cold ones. If we get to jamming, I can just mic everything, start recording, and see what happens. But realistically, if you don't want to do the "whole live band" recording thing, and be able to go back and have everything separately tracked for editing, the two interface is fine for personal recording. (use one for most instruments, both at once for anything in stereo).
Then it's just telling your DAW to use the interface as the input and recording your tracks.
I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC204HD-BEHRINGER/dp/B00QHURLCW/
They record up to 192 kHz and 24 bit audio which is more than enough for any analog format.
If your receiver has tape outputs just connect them to the 2 XLR inputs on the interface with something like these: https://www.amazon.com/d/RCA-Cables/Hosa-CPR-202-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/B000068O17/
The midi controller will likely connect on its own via USB. Looks like the MIDI Commander has a USB connection and a MIDI-out port.
If you do want the flexibility to connect MIDI to other stuff with the interface and the floor controller, you'll need an interface with MIDI in and out, which this Behringer has for a decent price, though I haven't looked at reviews, so do your research. I don't think the smaller Scarlett interfaces have MIDI in or out ports.
How about something like this?
https://www.amazon.ca/Behringer-UMC204HD-Interface-Microphone-Preamplifiers/dp/B00QHURLCW/ref=pd_cp_267_4?pd_rd_w=bUqCt&pf_rd_p=64a84aa4-b549-4445-9bf3-48bdeed5f24a&pf_rd_r=FX3NWDPM2P6N3N7MHKJS&pd_rd_r=ae0536b5-3968-11e9-bc35-6d37620f0add&pd_rd_wg=vjeUk&pd_rd_i=B00QHURLCW&psc=1&refRID=FX3NWDPM2P6N3N7MHKJS
So what would work better for what we're doing? The Behringer Q802USB or the UMC204HD?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O517IC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
or
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC204HD-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00QHURLCW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500862952&sr=8-2&keywords=UMC404hd
They're the same price. What would be the benefits of one over the other?
You would have to do some adapters to get everything plugged in, but this would work
https://smile.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC204HD-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00QHURLCW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505615486&sr=8-3&keywords=u-phoria
This is the recording interface I use, as you can see it has a knob on the front for "Mix" that mixes the Playback and the input. It would give you live ultra low latency monitoring.
This is of course WAY overkill for what you are trying to do, but it would work.
As to if this would actually lower your volume (of your actual voice) I don't know, and if trying it out is worth 80 bucks to you. There might be a cheaper interface out there, I just don't know of one that has the mix feature, and have not used any other so I really couldn't speak to how well it would work.
I suggest anything with USB 3 or FireWire or better. I suggest over 96mhz due to violin for sure. So look at the specs.
If you had to sacrifice maybe usb2 for now if you do t mi d getting another interface later if you just want to experiment. Maudio kind of sucks for their entry level stuff
http://amzn.to/29kGmuu. Maybe this or maybe pick one with a free entry level daw if you don't have one yet.
Edit: honestly I suggest 200 to spare
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00QHURLCW/ref=mh_s9_acsd_top_boEu3_c_x_4_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-3&pf_rd_r=WG6WTE1FKQJGX7TKVWNP&pf_rd_r=WG6WTE1FKQJGX7TKVWNP&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=0103afa1-969e-59ec-af5f-b5e6ed4a4ba6&pf_rd_p=0103afa1-969e-59ec-af5f-b5e6ed4a4ba6&pf_rd_i=11973691
And 2 of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0756V2B6R/ref=mp_s_a_1_29?ie=UTF8&qid=1517757516&sr=1-29-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=stereo+condenser+microphone&psc=1
You can do something as simple as acoustic wedge panels:
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Acoustic-Panels-Studio-Wedges/dp/B010GPFRUQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1518027589&sr=1-4&keywords=acoustic+panels
Mount them to cardboard first, then to the walls just to quell those reflections you may have from the ceiling and walls. I would really only concern myself with the wall/ceiling behind the speakers, and the wall behind your listening position since it looks like the room has a shallow depth.
Other than that, I would just sit back and enjoy. Hopefully to your ears its the best sounding system you have heard, because that's all that really matters.
Amazon
Yes, get the memory foam tips for your earbuds.
Add in a thick rug and some open cell acoustic foam on those plywood walls to soak up even more. What did you make the roof out of?
Maybe sound foam squares?
https://www.amazon.com/Pack--Acoustic-Panels-Studio-Wedges/dp/B010GPFRUQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1466706446&sr=8-3&keywords=sound+foam
Acoustic panels are like 15 dollars for a pack of 12 on Amazon.
If i were you i would just try recording at night,turn off any stuff like AC,fans and other noise inducing things.
Then,i would buy some acoustic panels like [this](https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Acoustic-Panels-Studio-Wedges/dp/B010GPFRUQ).
Then,find a room that is quiet,like your basement or a closet. Keep in mind that acoustic panels don't soundproof your room, they only absorb sounds in the room like echo.
Get a cheap condenser microphone like [this](https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Condenser-Microphone-Accessories-Card%EF%BC%8CLuxury/dp/B07D8SYZNC/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?keywords=bm-800&qid=1550855443&s=gateway&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1) in a kit with everything to get you started.
If you have windows in the recording room,get the heaviest curtains on them since that is probably the place where you will have most unwanted sound entering your recording room.
A microphone enclosure like [this](https://www.amazon.com/TONOR-Microphone-Isolation-Absorbing-Reflector/dp/B078WNW4YW/ref=sr_1_2?crid=17FFHMCM37ECP&keywords=microphone+enclosure&qid=1550855711&s=gateway&sprefix=microphone+enclo%2Caps%2C253&sr=8-2) can be used to isolate your microphone and get less echo and reverb.
Then,you should practice recording and breathing out slowly and through nose away from the mic.
And finally, get a program to edit your audio further until you are satisfied.
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EDIT: I don't know what is wrong with the hyperlinks,if anyone knows feel free to tell me what i did wrong
http://www.amazon.com/Pack--Acoustic-Panels-Studio-Wedges/dp/B010GPFRUQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458223430&sr=8-1&keywords=12+acoustical+foam
There's a bunch of different ways you can set them up. I'd read a few articles on acoustical treatment to see what works best for you.
my buddy loves his wireless beats, but i think they're pretty pricey.
damn now that ive looked at amazon, these are fairly cheap https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Acoustic-Panels-Studio-Wedges/dp/B010GPFRUQ/ref=pd_sbs_267_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B010GPFRUQ&pd_rd_r=JEDTMS6Y301QWZXZ230Q&pd_rd_w=SCrIZ&pd_rd_wg=Lt1o2&psc=1&refRID=JEDTMS6Y301QWZXZ230Q
not sure how "professional" they are but i bet they do a decent job.
KRK - Rokit 5's. $299
link
Friggin awesome speakers! Did all our demo work on them. Heavy duty, no distortion, highly recommended.
>yeah all you need is your Audient iD14, and your dbx.. Depending on your room, maybe gets some acoustic foam for the walls (the entire wall does not have to be covered), and a carpet. then you're good to go. https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Acoustic-Panels-Studio-Wedges/dp/B010GPFRUQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1539098325&sr=1-4&keywords=acoustic+foam&dpID=513Q%252BdvDuUL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
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I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Furman-M-8X2-Outlet-Conditioner-Protector/dp/B003BQ91Y6
Works great, but you could probably find a less expensive one... I wouldn't go for a cheaply made power strip or conditioner, though.
You don't have to go supper expansive. I am using this and had no problems at all.
Check this model out:
http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-2i4-USB-Interface/dp/B009B15N0Q
See the buttons next to each input that say "pad" That's what your model should have. When you clip, it lowers the input by around -10 -20 giving your more headroom.
Sound guy here, all that open space and super nice hard floors make for terrible acoustics and a lot of echo. If you like the look, I would definitely throw up some acoustic panels http://www.amazon.com/2x12x12-BURGUNDY-CHARCOAL-Acoustic-Soundproofing/dp/B00ATP5KF6/ref=pd_bxgy_MI_img_z
Otherwise, a couple tapestries and some throw rugs should make the space sound much warmer less cavernous.
For that budget, you're gonna have a hard time getting a really good setup going. Not to worry though because you don't need a ton of money to have a decent thing going. First, I wouldn't get a USB device for any reason. There's no reason to limit yourself to whatever cheap electronics they threw in that thing. So that leaves us with needing a mic, a cable, and a mic preamp/interface solution. For the mic, I would pick a widely used favorite of the Shure SM57. It'll do the job fine of recording your voice and acoustic guitar. Sure it's not ideal, but your budget won't even let us get one. We'll have to look at even cheaper alternatives. Did someone mention the GLS Audio ES-57? It's ridiculously cheap, decently built (mine has survived a bunch of falls,) and best of all, it sounds almost exactly the same as a Shure SM-57. Go ahead and grab a $10 XLR cable, since that's about all you can afford at this point. If it breaks, you'll have to scrounge up another $10 in the future, but we worry about that for now.
Onto the interface/preamp unit. I honestly don't know that much about low end interfaces, but I can recommend the Scarlett 2i2. I have a Saffire 6 USB which uses the same Focusrite mic preamps, and they sound pretty damn good in my opinion. It's outside of your budget new, but you can probably find a used one without a problem. If you can't find a Scarlett 2i2 used, try looking up the Saffire 6 USB. The Saffire 6 USB is basically the same thing as a Scarlett 2i4, but with a few more features. It's discontinued as far as I know, but there are plenty on Ebay I'm sure. As far as other alternatives, you're on your own.
Now that you have a mic, cable, and preamp/interface, all you need is a DAW like Reaper and you're all set for recording.
Edit: no idea why I'm being down voted for this. Please provide some constructive criticism before just down voting without providing a reason.