(Part 2) Best electrical switches according to redditors
We found 3,450 Reddit comments discussing the best electrical switches. We ranked the 728 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Just got a new safe for xmas, hated the lighting in it so got started on a DIY lighting project. Spent 20 minutes and $24, its pressure sensitive and lights up all compartments.
Edit: The Safe is a Mesa
I have a Honeywell programmable light switch that knows sunrise and sunset for wherever you live. It comes on at dusk and turns off when I want. So I never have to turn the porch lights on or off, and it looks like I'm home when I'm away.
http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Econoswitch-RPLS740B-Programmable-Switch/dp/B004AP92N2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415045747&sr=8-1&keywords=honeywell+light+switch+programmable
Hey! So sorry you've had to deal with this, it must be really scary.
I lived in a sketchy area for a while, and though I didn't get a weapon, I felt safer after I took a women's self-defense class and put alarms on the windows and doors.
A self-defense class will make you feel safer and provide you with some practical tips on what to do during a dangerous situation like a break-in. A good program should also lay out what legally counts as self defense in your state, which is really good to know. I did (and highly recommend!) the RAD program. It's designed specifically with women's safety in mind, and the course will teach you how to escape a variety of different holds, project your voice to scare off assailants, and fight back long enough to escape. At the higher levels, they teach how to use pepper spray, which is a skill that needs practice.
One other cool thing RAD teaches you is to use your voice as defense-- they make you practice a firm, assertive shout of "NO!" It feels silly at first, but knowing you have that in you can make a difference. My mother in law, who is a tiny librarian, once scared off a car-jacker just with a calm but loud shout of "GET OUT OF MY CAR."
You can get door and window alarms really cheaply on Amazon. They're not a real home security system in that they don't alert the police, but they DO make one HELL of a noise if someone rattles or breaks your door or window, and that can be enough to scare a thief off. They usually come with a sticker you can display on the door or window as a deterrant, too.
Make sure your external lights (porch, etc) are working, and leave them on at night. (You can also get an outlet timer to turn the lights/radio/tv on and off, so you can make it look like you're at home when you're not.) Introduce yourself to your neighbors (you don't have to tell them you're living alone-- you can even recruit a friend to pay these visits with you if your neighbors are super sketchy) and let them know what happened-- if they know your name and associate you with a friendly warning, they'll be interested in your safety and keep an eye out. If you have a sliding glass door, lay a stick in the track when you're away so it can't slide open. Even if the thieves didn't take anything, file a police report anyway so the cops will know what's up.
It's really awful to not feel safe in your house, but you can take steps to make yourself safer.
EDIT: Should add that my friend who teaches self-defense really, really stresses that you should know the basics before you rely on any object to keep you safe. Everyone has to make this choice on their own, but she always says that a knife or a gun (or even pepper spray) can be taken out of your hands and then used against anyone, and that having a weapon often escalates a situation. If you're going to go that route, get training so you know how to use your weapon!
This system is great.
We have a Logitech Harmony hub based remote and I've used Caseta switches to control the living room lighting, ceiling fans, and the fireplace.
Perhaps you could use a timer for the outlet and set it to go on 30 minutes prior to your usual medicating time, and to go off around your stop time. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Woods-50006-24-Hour-Mechanical-Settings/dp/B006LYHED0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473442959&sr=8-3&keywords=outlet+timer
The low-tech solution is to go to the hardware store and get an electrical timer for $5. There are ones that work in 15-minute increments; just set it to power off from 4:00 to 4:15 in the morning and be on the rest of the day.
SLA battery + DC-AC inverter + cheapo analog light timer + light bulb.
Edit here's a parts list.
Inverter - https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Devices-Inverter-Converter-Adapter/dp/B01J4S7YKC/ref=sr_1_3?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1479399479&sr=1-3&keywords=power+inverter+clip
Timer (2pk) - https://www.amazon.com/Woods-50006-24-Hour-Mechanical-Settings/dp/B006LYHED0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479399756&sr=8-3&keywords=outlet+timer
Plug light - https://www.amazon.com/JACKYLED-Extension-Hanging-Lantern-2-Prong/dp/B016MDPWL0/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1479399822&sr=8-6&keywords=plug+in+light
Then just grab a 12V car, boat, lawn tractor battery. Use an led bulb for less power draw. You'll have to recharge every so often (the battery capacity will determine how often).
Also you can add a solar charger so you never have to charge it. http://www.harborfreight.com/15-watt-solar-battery-charger-68692.html
All 3 lights are controlled by a single switch??? If so, one of these might work
Also: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DTXKOTM/ref=pd_aw_sim_75_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41LJmyLXpBL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C67_&refRID=1TG5SVHVG6V1V98SN8HS
I assume you could use a reed switch setup (a magnet on the gate, the switch on the fence)... the same thing you see on doors and windows in security systems. The pushbutton in your wireless remote would be replaced with wires running to the reed switch. I'm making a lot of assumptions about how that remote works, but just an idea.
https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC18103-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B008VWAPU4
>I have a few switch operated outlets in some of my bedrooms that I want to just make regular outlets.
Do you have other switched controlled lighting in the rooms, or are these designed so you can plug a lamp into them as a source of light for the room? If it's the latter, you can't remove the switch and be code compliant.
It's definitely physically possible to do what you want to do, and it will be as simple as connecting the black wires from each screw together.
Easier solution is to just put light switch locks on them.
This one:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Weather-Resistant-SmartThings-14284/dp/B06W9NWFM3/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539587051&sr=8-1&keywords=ge+z-wave+outdoor
Or, basically the same thing:
https://www.amazon.com/Jasco-Z-Wave-Plug-Outdoor-Module/dp/B07DVYNJ6N/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539587051&sr=8-4&keywords=ge+z-wave+outdoor
I've had both of mine under 6" of snow (we don't get a lot here) and also completely soaked by rain (we get a LOT here). No problems at all.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01G6O28NA/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484259010&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65
I use this timer with 2s on and 5min off. I've been experimenting a lot with the intervals, it is difficult to figure out the best timing.
I would not leave a slow cooker on high for 10-12 hours. High setting is for the 4-6 hour range and low is for the 8-10. A few hours over the recipe will not hurt your food; slow cookers provide a lot of leeway. If you are the type to really worry, purchase a timer for the socket and force it to shut off at 8 hours.
Check this out then!
https://www.amazon.com/Light-Switch-Guard-Toggle-Shields/dp/B00DTXKOTM
I have an Ecobee4 thermostat (although Alexa doesn’t work as well for me as I hoped) w/ Ecobee remote sensors mounted in every room. Not only is this great for managing the temp in the house overall, but now I can include temp changes in my automations and geo-fencing.
In addition, although I find them a bit slow to respond when using them as room entry motion sensors, the Ecobee remote sensors are great for automatically turning off the lights when a room is no longer occupied.
I also recently added some non-HomeKit “smarter” switches in my bathroom and laundry room. In the laundry room, I put a simple Lutron (not Caseta) motion sensor switch to auto turn the light on/off when someone comes/goes from the laundry room. Works fantastically, it’s simple, and not too expensive.
In my bathroom, I added three new Lutron (not Caseta) switches.
The first two of those switches are far more programmable than I thought... reading the instructions really paid off! :)
The Lutron Claro wall plates are really great as well. They are very clean, simple, and modern looking... and their 2-part design makes it really easy to adjust all your switches for a precision installation (i.e. flush and straight).
In my bedroom, my bedside lamps are controlled by 1 Lutron Caseta lamp dimmer w/ remote. I use the same style Caseta lamp dimmer for a few other standalone lamps... and even used one to automate (just on/off) my outside LED holiday lights last winter (the dimmability of which was fantastic, as they are normally way too bright).
In conclusion, before spending a bunch of money, my advice would be to think carefully about how you/others use certain rooms and if a motion detection switch would suffice or if a more complex automation control is needed. Also... do the math. As others have pointed out, one alternative may be way more cost effective over another when you factor in the number of bulbs and/or switches involved.
One last thing... I am renting a room to a guy who's on a totally different schedule than me and as such, I never knew if he was in his room sleeping or out of the house elsewhere. So... since I had previously added him to my HomeKit household... I use a combination of geofencing with his phone, and the Ecobee motion sensor in his room, to switch on/off a particular lamp when he comes & goes. That way... it's easy for me to know if I need to be quiet, or if I can rock out with my socks out.
*EDIT: Added a bunch of links and more...
Lutron has a low amperage switch (5A limit) that does not require a neutral. It’s the PD-5 series (not the more common PD-6). Unfortunately they’re quite expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PD-5WS-DV-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Lighting/dp/B00NO7Z80S?crid=14TOD0X98DIW8&keywords=lutron+pd5wcl&qid=1540691480&sprefix=Lutron+pd5%2Caps%2C156&sr=8-6&ref=sr_1_6
Any zwave switch should be able to toggle power. They are relatively easy to wire in. Just watch a few YouTube videos (TURN THE BREAKER OFF FIRST).
I wanted to have a toggle switch that matched the other toggles in the house (not the flat 'paddles'). These are a little large but should find in a double box like that.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12727/dp/B00PYMGOHM
I'd go with a magnetic reed switch and some LED strips:
I did something similar with my liquor cabinet but with a leftover LED strip from an aquarium.
Out of curiosity: where in Texas are you? I'm in Austin.
Might not be too difficult if you use one of those 24 hour mechanical outlet timers to turn the gear..
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0035GF8NA/ref=aw_d_iv_hi?is=l&qid=1342494595&sr=8-1
Just cover it up with something
http://www.amazon.com/Woods-50007-Indoor-Digital-Settings/dp/B005WQIDHY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416518902&sr=8-1&keywords=electric+outlet+timer
and
http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-SL24-Spiral-Energy-Saving/dp/B002P4NRUE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1416518914&sr=8-3&keywords=blue+light+bulb
The problem is that your husband works 60 hours a week, so you are expected to be the parent the 60 hours he is unavailable, while doing the whole "emotional labor" for everyone in the house (like having to even bring up the fact that you need a service to clean - that should have been obvious).
This pace will not be able to be kept up.
When I had a hectic schedule I would do crockpot freezer meals...You have to prep a bunch, which will easily take up one of your days off (shopping one day, prepping the next, b/c it's really too much to do on one day). But what I usually did was planned about 20-30 crockpot meals that I could put in the crockpot and put it on a timer so it would turn itself off and on (couldn't just do this with the machine - maybe you can now...but my machine had a timer that let me start it hours after I left, but then it just went into "warm" mode after- which was still too hot and left the meal unappealing and kind of like mush, so I used a light timer to automatically shut off my machine. It was still warm when it was time to eat. I would use bag salad, frozen bread/canned biscuits, frozen veggies as sides...b/c they were all quick and tended to be ready in under 15 minutes.
It sounds like you're not home for meals for a few of the days, though. So even this may not be an option. Is your husband home during this time and HE could do things that a normal adult does at mealtime?
This isn't a sustainable existence unless you have A LOT more help - like a nanny taking care of the kids and also doing the shopping, and a few general chores so on your days off you aren't running around like a mad person.
They still function like regular light switches. You can control them manually via the wall or remotely.
Note that all ZWave switches that I've seen basically amount to push buttons instead of the typical rocker that most homes use. That is to say, they have a physical switch with both and on and an off, but the switch doesn't physically move to indicate whether it's on or off. They usually have an led built into them that shows this.
If you want to keep your existing switches, check out something like Aeotec's micro-switches: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008VWAPU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. You install these behind your existing wall switches. Once you do that, your existing switches continue to work the same as before, and you can control them remotely.
This would do it: http://amzn.com/B00JWVNH4Y
And so would this: http://amzn.com/B008VWAPU4
I have a similar situation. I'm in a house built in 1955 and in the process of replacing switches with a Lutron setup.
One thing I wanted to be clear on is what you mention about a lack of neutral wires. From my understanding (and granted, I'm not an electrician, but have done my fair share of wiring jobs around the house), even houses from the 50s would have neutral wires. I'm wondering if you've confused ground wires with neutral wires. Neutrals are usually white wires while grounds are usually green or bare copper. Again, I know this as I'm in the exact situation. My house has no ground wires in most locations, but neutrals are everywhere as expected.
I only have one switch in the house the controls an outlet, but here's now I tackled it.
This has actually worked out great, as it means we have an extra outlet in the living room for plugging in things like our laptops, but we still have a switch in the wall for the lamps.
Why would you build something when for $9 bucks you can get one that's UL approved and won't look like absolute shit?
You want to go one notch higher? Get the Caseta version and do it wirelessly.
Closest thing I have seen is z wave based. Lutron makes a plug that you can get a remote with.
Edit: link; Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Lamp Dimmer and Remote Kit, P-PKG1P-WH, White, Works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJY1QG0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OeJbBb7389Z6A
Lutron's RF PD-5S-DV-WH and Caseta PD-5WS-DV-WH switches do not require a neutral for most applications.
I got a couple of these: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12727/dp/B00PYMGOHM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473194366&sr=8-2&keywords=ge+zwave+switch
they seem to come highly recommended and I know at least one person personally that has installed a number of them.
The switch itself looks normal except that the toggle points straght out (so it looks like it's stuck inbetween on and off. Basically it's operation is push up for on and push down for off. GE also makes a dimmer version and a 3 way add on switch.
Yes, ofcourse. You need a hue lamp
, a hue dimmer switchand a hue bridge.As long as these 3 devices are in the same subnet it will work. This is the basic idea of Hue lights. You can also use a mobile phone to control the light, if connected to the same network or through internet if you have associated an account with the bridge.
EDIT: Sorry, I thought/remembered that the devices communicate via Wifi. Like /u/maxtor202003 mentioned, they use ZigBee together.
Still, this is possible, but the "switch" should be a device of some kind, that communicates with the bridge via network (WiFi/Internet). You could build such switch quite easily, for example by using a ESP8266 or an Arduino, or it could be an old computer or a mobile phone.
Hey, /u/kerj!
My company (Jasco) manufactures both the Enbrighten lights and the GE Z-Wave Outdoor Switch. The model 12720 you linked is the old Z-Wave model. We have a newer Z-Wave Plus model, 14284. It is rated for 150 feet of range.
Setup is indeed a bit more than just buying the Outdoor Switch to be able to automate your Enbrighten lights (or whatever else you choose to plug into it). You'll need a Z-Wave hub like /u/bfodder said. SmartThings, Wink, any of those will do. Wink even makes the Wink Hub v1 and sells it for around $30 on Amazon. You could get that and our Outdoor Switch and you'd be all set.
You can send ON/OFF commands from your phone at any time and also setup schedules (depending on how well the hub manufacturer you pick has integrated your selected Z-Wave device).
Feel free to ping any other questions you might have off me.
Nope it's completely normal to have lights off overnight. Usually you aim for 12 hours of light and 12 of darkness. Because of my and my husband's work schedules we have them set for on at 7 am so we can feed them before work and off at 8 pm because we're not home until after 5:30 pm and they should have two hours of basking before lights out to digest their food properly.
I suggest getting a digital thermometer that records the lowest temps to make sure it's not getting too chilly overnight. Ours hovers around 70 overnight with the ceramic heat emitter. I don't recall offhand what's the lowest it can safely get down to but I think it's around 67 degrees.
This is the timer we use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01G6O28NA/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505841548&sr=sr-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=digital+timer+outlet
And this is the thermometer/hydrometer (to keep tabs on the humidity): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013BKDO8/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1505841625&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=digital+hygrometer&dpPl=1&dpID=516gPXAOs5L&ref=plSrch
Many companies do this before Black Friday. They will raise it to its "normal" price and then on Black Friday it is back on "sale".
I have noticed other items on Amazon doing this too. For example: https://camelcamelcamel.com/Sylvania-Smart-Home-72922-LIGHTIFY/product/B01M6UM8QD?context=search
They were $14.99 and just before Black Friday and now the price is back up. I expect the price to drop to $14.99 again during Black Friday.
Also in NJ and growing indoors for transplanting. A cheap and effective option (what i'm using) is to get a shop light from lowes/home depot and put in one T8 cool white and one T8 warm light bulb. You want one bulb from each end of the spectrum. Once your seeds are sprouting keep the lights 2 inches from the top of the plant for about 14-16 hours a day (helpful to use a outlet timer, get one on amazon). I also have a fan going for the same time to prevent mold on top of soil and also make the stems stronger
Here's what i'm using, cost about $30:
Man, I'm really getting some use of this link today lol.
Basically it's a Z-Wave scene controller that goes over the existing switch. You leave the switch behind it, in the on position, and use the buttons on the controller. With the ZHA integration I can see separate Z-Wave events for both buttons for single press, long press held down, and long press releases.
It's not pretty, probably not better than the Shelly idea, but it's different.
I have one of these:
GoControl WA00Z-1 Z-Wave Scene-Controller Wall Switch (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BKWG9XS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0QIRybNX5PVH7
Battery powered. Also comes with another faceplate that makes it about half the size that picture shows. Supports tap and also hold functions I believe. You would have to double check compatibility with your controller.
The hue remotes come with wall mounting plates. Even if you don't screw them into the wall, you can still find another way to attach them. The remote attaches to the plate via magnets. They're also the same size as a normal outlet, so will fit nicely next to any light switches you have.
Here is a link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0167Z0P3I/
Edit: huh, looks like he ESP have dropped in price since I've last messed with them. Maybe it's a value pack of Chinese knockoffs though.
I have lights in mine and used a magnetic switch to have them turn on automatically when the door is opened.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009SUF08/
Honestly, your cheapest options are to get an actual Zwave repeater or just about any plug-in Zwave device (here's a cheap smart plug).
Alternatively, you can replace any one of those switches with a zwave switch, and upgrade the rest later, as budget allows.
Battery bloat will be a problem if you keep them charging 24x7. Get a Sabrent 60 Watt 10 port charger and a mechanical timer. Set the timer for about 1 hour on, and one (or more if you can) off.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Family-Sized-Charger-X3-3foot-AX-TU63/dp/B016JZVZ8A
https://www.amazon.com/GE-24-Hour-Mechanical-Grounded-Outlet/dp/B0035GF8NA
I think the solution you're looking for lies in the switch not the light. I just recently switched my front outdoor lights to a timer switch that has 7 days of programming available. You enter where you live and adjusts for when the sun rises and sets. You can also program a particular time as well for it to shut off or turn on. So far it works great and was a fairly easy install.
Here's a Link:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AP92N2/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's the "Honeywell Econoswitch RPLS740B 7-Day Solar Time Table Programmable Switch for Lights and Motors"
Damn almost all mine are pork based. However in terms of fixing your cook time problem just get something like this http://www.amazon.com/Woods-50006-Indoor-24-Hour-Mechanical/dp/B006LYHED0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406851393&sr=8-1&keywords=outlet+timer&dpPl=1
Leave it on and put it on a timer. If it loses power, does it require you to touch it to turn it back on? Mine doesn't. I use these timers:
https://www.amazon.com/Woods-50006WD-24-Hour-Mechanical-Settings/dp/B006LYHED0/
Your broad options are:
Some folks use a variation of #2: They find creative ways to install a Philips Hue Dimmer switch over-the-top of their conventional switch, thereby preventing access to the old switch and providing convenient access to a Hue-friendly switch in its place!
More recently, there are some new Friends of Hue switches starting to arrive on the market that should fit standard (US & Europe) switch plates (unlike the non-standard sized Philips Hue Dimmer switch.) You could use them the same way folks use the Philips Hue Dimmer switch, without resorting to creative 3D-printing hacks to make it fit.
> some sort of surface mount switch cover that fit OVERTOP that one, to keep it in n on state
They are called switch guards. I recently picked up these ones for the same purpose, to preventing accidental turning off of Hue bulbs to help make sure they are online. There are different styles and functions, these ones have tabs you can snap off to give easy access through the side, or leave them on and you can still get to it just have to use a screwdriver to take off the cover.
----
Edit I think I misread, and you want to put a Hue switch where an existing switch is. If you are trying to replace the switch with a face plate that doesn't have a switch so you could mount the Hue switch, you'd need to do some electric work. It might be easier to use the guard I mentioned, and mount the Hue switch next to it.
Consider the Caseta dimmers and switches. They are quality pieces of hardware, and some models don't need a neutral to operate. They rob a tiny bit of power when off and on, and it does it in a way where most bulbs and appliances don't flicker or anything. I have an old house without neutrals almost everywhere and these things have been my silver bullet.
Here's a dimmer that doesn't need a neutral: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA
And a switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NO7Z80S
Be careful on which dimmers and switches you buy, as Lutron sells ones that require neutral connections that look exactly the same. Check the model numbers! Last I checked, Home Depot sells dimmers that work without neutrals, but the switches they sell do require them.
I have a three-way connection on my stairwell, and I just wire-nutted one side of the connection and put a Pico remote in its place. On the other side is a dimmer with no neutral.
You'll need a Caseta bridge to make these work, and I highly recommend the pro bridge. The non-pro one works, but it does some really hacky things to get it to talk with Home Assistant. Updates to it have broken things, too. The pro bridge provides a reliable telnet connection that also supports using Pico remotes as sensors and such.
If you decide to use the pro bridge, use this component: https://github.com/upsert/lutron-caseta-pro
Good luck!
Mount a magnetic switch on the outside of the door. Something like this
No, just a few simple parts.
Tape
Power Supply
Connectors (Technically optional, you can solder the cut ends of the tape. But this is much easier.
Magnetic Switch
Dimmer (Optional)
You'll also need basic wire nuts and spare wire.
I had 3/4" thick shelves with 1 1/4" MDF trim fronstpieces. Then I cut a small 45-degree piece to fit hidden behind the front trim. The tape then goes on that 45-degree piece so it's pointing down and back. I hope that makes sense.
A magnetic switch, like the kind security systems use to see if a window is open.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009SUF08/ref=sxts_kp_bs_lp_1
One side mounts on the door, the other side mounts on the door frame and has wires running to it. When a magnet gets close to the wired one it opens/closes a contact (depends on how you wire it). So wire it to be open when there's a magnet and the circuit will close (thus the light turns on) when the door is opened and the other part moves away. The circuit opens again when the door is closed and the other part gets close. Works for both sliding and regular doors.
Consider doing some homework first, e.g. take a look at Home Security Projects for Raspberry Pi. That will give you some basic ideas and some direction that you may want to explore. Remember, the Raspberry Pi is more of a general purpose single board computer and needs sensors and coding to get it where you want it. I would strongly suggest you look at some websites dealing with Python coding on the RPi. Don't be afraid to explore. What you are looking at doing has been done by many people over the years, just in different ways. An example sensor (for the door kicking) would be to mount a magnetic reed switch and sense the opening or closing of the door using the GPIO pins on the RPi. Good Luck!
z-wave.
You could do it one of a couple of ways. Both ways would have you installing a z-wave light switch to replace your existing one, soemething like
http://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Switch/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1414373746&sr=1-1&keywords=z-wave+light+switch
Then you could either get a lamp modules for the lights, like this
http://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0013V6S0Q
but that would add a lot of bulk to your setup, so instead i would probably look at replacing your power outlet iwth a zwave outlet like
http://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Receptacle/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1414373786&sr=1-1&keywords=z-wave+outlet
So once you pair the switch and the outlet, when you pressed the switch it would not only power on your existing lights, but also turn on/off the top receptacle of the outlet as well
Well the best I could find was this: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Receptacle-12721/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_37?ie=UTF8&qid=1542927191&sr=8-37&keywords=smart+outdoor+outlet
Which is not specifically for outdoors. I think probably the reason that there are not outdoor rated in gang box receptacles is that the electrical code for different areas could really make it hard to make a device that will fit them all.
Part of the problem is that a smart socket has to have power all the time (be it from a battery or from the AC) so there could be real issues with installing it properly.
If you decide to go ahead and do it this way, please consult with an electrician or your local governing authority to make sure you are following code. If you are not and there's a fire, it could go poorly for you.
There are a lot of options out there for basic home automation. None are particularly cheap, but also not outrageously expensive. As a thought, if I were going to set this up in my place, using what I have in place:
SmartThings Hub
z-wave compatible outlet
z-wave compatible door sensor
Have the outlet turn on every time the door sensor closes and turn off when it opens.
As an alternative, you could use a motion sensor in the room, but some people may find that a bit creepy.
You can definitely get outlets and various sensors cheaper in other places, such as monoprice.
This is what I will test with Plan B: a basic electrical timer and a 500-watt flood light. I just ordered them. This is actually cheaper than the $70-80 Phillips light—it'll only cost you around $35.
Although it might be a shock to wake up to, I speculate that I'll get used to it in a few days. Really really bright light is probably very good at entraining circadian rhythms—it needs to be too bright to comfortably ignore. I want to be assaulted with photons.
I also want to test what it's like when the light is colored blue, I imagine that will be more relaxing, since early morning light is very blue.
Egg timers work for an hour/one rev. Two egg timers stacked will get you two revs in an hour.
A mechanical timer will give you one rev in 24 hrs
We have a Honeywell astro-timer switch for our front yard lights. Love it. I set it 2 years ago and it's never not worked. Best part about it is that it never needs adjustments throughout the year. It already knows based on the date when dusk/dawn is. All I had to do is set what time I want them to shut off.
The added bonus for us is that there's also an outdoor outlet on that leg. So we run all our holiday lights off it and everything comes on and shuts off together.
You could have 2 next to each other (they're standard single-gang size). But in your case, you could probably get one and tie the two switch legs together.
+1 for keeping it simple. A smart switch could certainly do this but I wouldn't set up a home automation system for a single light.
Your call of course, but I'd feel a bit weird having a light with no user-operable switch. You could put in a programmable timer which keeps the light on for a set time every day. If the light is already on they would be less inclined to mess with it. And you could still turn it on if necessary. I have this one, highly recommend it. It has a feature to come on/off at sunrise and/or sunset plus an offset feature. I have mine come on 20 mins after sunset and go off at 11:00, it handles all the seasonal variation in sunset just fine. I've had mine a bit over a year and I haven't touched it since the original programming.
My husband wants one of these so I will probably get it for him.
Yep! It’s pretty cool. Turns off in the morning. Here’s the link:
Honeywell Home RPLS740B1008 Econoswitch 7-Day Programmable Light Switch Timer White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004AP92N2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qqMQCbZZPGVZS
greyam already covered how to get if off.
I'm not sure if you just don't like the timer in general or where this switch is, but I replaced a switch with one of these fancy timers that also has a simple on/off switch. It's nice and even has a "vacation" mode if you're into that sort of thing (randomly turns lights on and off during "on" times).
http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Econoswitch-RPLS740B-Programmable-Switch/dp/B004AP92N2
Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005WQIDHY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1426488604&sr=8-3&keywords=outlet+timer&pi=AC_SY200_QL40\](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005WQIDHY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1426488604&sr=8-3&keywords=outlet+timer&pi=AC_SY200_QL40%5D\(this))
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
it's the mechanical timer. it happened to me so i dropped the mech ones for these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WQIDHY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
haven't had the problem again
Put a light on a timer. I bought these timers. Generally I'd use a not-too-bright lamp or a string of white Christmas lights so the light isn't too harsh right away.
Have your first alarm go off about five minutes after the light timer. Have preworkout mixed and ready to go next to your bed. After the first alarm, chug the pre-workout. Roll back over to "sleep" more. Second alarm would go off about 10 minutes after the first one. By then the preworkout is kicking in and it's time to wake up!
I've also incorporated a radio alarm in the past as well. Gets my brain going to listen to the music/DJs.
Is there a reason for not using a plain old outlet timer like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005WQIDHY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1426488604&sr=8-3&keywords=outlet+timer&pi=AC_SY200_QL40) ?
http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC18103-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B008VWAPU4
or for dimmer :
http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC27103-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B00IRI1CEK/ref=pd_sim_60_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31seJADBH5L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0328RRAJWFQ5PZM7CJGB
Virtually all smart switches require a neutral (typically a white wire). Some dimmers only require 3 connections (live, load, and ground).
Smart bulbs are the easiest solution, but the most expensive (and annoying) in the long term (if the switch is off you can't control the light from other devices)
For using smart switches running an additional wire from the switch box to the neutral bus in the breaker box is an option but is usually the most labor intensive option. For other options you need to identify how the switches were wired. There are 3 common ways:
Hopefully that helps.
SmartThings and Alex work very well together. Not to mention SmartThings automation is second to none as far as I have experienced with other hubs. This prevents you from having all those apps as you mentioned. All you have to do is add zwave or zigbee devices to your hub and you can control them from one place.
In your case, especially with the outside lights, I would just install one of these Aeontec microswitches. They come in dimmers too. You can hide them in the walls and your switches still work just as they did before, with the exception that you can now control them wirelessly. Just be sure to watch your draw. A lot of outdoor flood lights might be too much wattage for them. I installed a Lutron Caseta switch and hub for my father and quickly brushed up against the 650 Watt limit of those switches with all his outdoor flood lights. I'll be honest I don't know the limit of these switches and I can't find it on Aeontec's website, but you should be fine bellow 700 watts per switch.
With SmartThings you can set up timers for devices, link them to motion detectors, and even check on their power consumption if you have the right kind of switch.
Get a light switch guard.
They make ones for rocker switches also.
Aeotech makes the micro dimmer and newer nano dimmer that do the same thing, but using the zwave protocol.
Lutron Caseta will take care of that for you. Bonus: you can plug two lamps in to one, however they can't be independently controlled.
If you end up getting a hub then you can use your iPhone, or Alexa, amongst other devices to control them, however I wouldn't bother with the hub unless you expanded the switches to multiple areas of your house...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJY1QG0/
The Lutron Lamp Dimmer doesn’t cover both outlets. See photos here: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-PKG1P-WH-Assistant/dp/B00JJY1QG0
Generally speaking, it's not recommended to put a dimmer on an outlet. Lutron has on/off switches, but they also require a neutral.
But you may be over thinking it. You can just do this and then get the "switch" wall mount for the remote.
Edit: I didn't fully read your post. You can program any of the Lutron remotes to control multiple Lutron lights. Mounting one and having it control multiple I think is the best solution.
A Caseta plug-in lamp dimmer along with a wireless remote can do this. https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-PKG1P-WH-Assistant/dp/B00JJY1QG0
You can mount the remote on the wall using the wall mount kit (not included with the kit above, but should be pretty easy to find). If you no longer use the switch that you’re trying to replace, you could remove that switch, tie the wires together to make that receptacle always on, then mount this wireless remote right on top of the old switch location.
You just set up the lamp dimmer as you would normally. The extender functionality is automatically activated.
You can see which device, if any, is acting as an extender in the Lutron app. Open the app, and tap the gear icon in the top-left corner to open Settings. Then, tap on "Advanced". Choose "Range Extender". If one of your lamp dimmers is acting as a range extender, then it will show up there.
If you want to change which device is an extender, you have to remove the existing device acting as current extender from your Lutron app and then re-add it. (So it might be easier to just physically swap the lamp dimmers in your home and then change their assigned rooms, scenes, and triggers in Lutron and HomeKit).
It's worth emphasizing that only the lamp dimmer (https://www.amazon.com/Caseta-Wireless-Lighting-Dimmer-P-PKG1P-WH/dp/B00JJY1QG0) can act as an extender. None of the in-wall dimmers or switches are capable of acting as extenders.
(edit: corrected "set it" to "set up" in the first sentence)
The cheapest way is to purchase a Caseta starter kit. It'll include a dimmer for a light and bridge. The bridge adds easily to HK. It was one of the first (and IMHO one of the best) HK integrations.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-BDG-PKG1W-Assistant/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=pd_cp_60_2?pd_rd_w=1Cc2X&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=11WQJXBMVDNVY35FZZ8T&pd_rd_r=5bc69812-c3b0-40eb-9ff8-ecfefccc9026&pd_rd_wg=hEiyD&pd_rd_i=B00MXCRAX8&psc=1&refRID=11WQJXBMVDNVY35FZZ8T
The Lutron Caseta switches don't require a neutral. They are Alexa, Harmony Hub, and Apple HomeKit compatible. They also work with IFTTT. They do have their own hub but they are rock solid. They are by far the most reliable bit of smart home tech that I have (even more so than Hue). Pricey but worth it. They are more buttons than switches but I like the way they look.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MXCRAX8/ref=psdcma_507840_t1_B00JJY0S4G#
The standard dimmer includes a remote that can easily replace a three-way switch. They are super versatile (LED, CFL, or incandescent) and work with Lutrons really expensive blinds if you have that kind of money :)
This one will control off/on state, but not speed. Don't use the Caseta Dimmer model, as it won't work. https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PD-5WS-DV-WH-Switch-Wireless-Lighting/dp/B00NO7Z80S/ref=sr_1_9?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1474586308&sr=1-9&keywords=lutron+caseta
Apparently some Caseta switches do. I didn't know this. Some don't though.
This one does not: https://smile.amazon.com/Lutron-PD-5WS-DV-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Lighting/dp/B00NO7Z80S?sa-no-redirect=1
Not that one - it's an "add-on" switch for use where you have a couple of switches that control the same set of lights (a 3-way switch scenario), it's a dummy switch which is why it's half the price of other zwave switches :)
Here's what you'll want: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12727/dp/B00PYMGOHM
You'll be able to link the sensor to it about 6 ways to Sunday with smartthings, no problem. The more you look into it, the more you'll realize how powerful smartthings can be - you could even have it turn on the lights when it senses motion only on Tuesdays between 6-9pm when the temperature is less than 72 degrees in the den, your wife isn't home and the fridge door is closed if that's what you wanted to do. Just plain motion it can do in its sleep.
i was thinking i could get a z-wave wall switch like this. I was hoping there was some kind of wireless/battery powered z-wave switch that i could put on the bedside tables.
On a side note is that GE add on switches basically what i am looking for but not wireless? Meaning do the ge add-on switches simply trigger a different z-wave control (for instance the switch by the door)?
I know that GE makes a toggle style z-wave switch; I haven't done much searching for toggle style switches previously, so there may be others too. As far as how they work, I have never used the toggle style switch but on the decora models, yea, it's basically one momentary switch under both sides of the paddle.
GE's toggle-style switches (12727, switch; 12728, add-on switch; 12729, dimmer) will fit into an existing toggle setup, but they don't stay up and down like a regular toggle switch does. They're always pointing straight out in the middle and you press them up or down to turn the light on and off (or hold the dimmer up or down to brighten and dim, respectively). They return to their center position as soon as you let go.
I like the decora series a little better (12722, switch; 12723, add-on switch; 12724, dimmer). They have a little LED on them that indicates the current status of the light. The toggle-style switches don't have any indication of whether they're on or off, which is kind of a bummer for outside lights.
One thing to be aware of for the add-on switches: they require a traveler wire, but can only be paired with GE primary switches. The traveler doesn't carry full line voltage; it's just used for the add-on switch to signal the primary when the add-on's been pressed.
I have both of these: GE 12727 (no dimming) & GE 12729 (dimming). They require a Z-Wave hub (I'm using SmartThings 2.0) to integrate with Alexa. The switch + hub + Echo all pair and work together wonderfully.
EDIT: Also no faceplate change needed.
2nd EDIT: You should really be asking this on /r/HomeAutomation instead.
You can use Hue instead of the TP-Link smart plug. and put a hue bulb in the lamp and use one of these switches.
I recommend smart switches vs smart bulbs. It keeps the traditional control plus avoids having to stick secondary Philips switches(or similar) next to the "real"ones with child covers on the "real" switch so people don't turn off the circuit. The only time I would use smart bulbs is for something like a table lamp that has no wall switch or for renters.
Here's an option to consider. If you go with a SmartThings hub and compatible devices including this switch that covers the existing physical switch, it's entirely possible to have a physical switch that refuses to turn lights on after it is pressed during the night while allowing it during the day (providing your WiFi lights work with SmartThings - the list is here). It will take some advanced programming using webCORE (the super powerful web-based SmartThings automation system) but it sounds like it would be incredibly useful for your particular situation.
So does GoControl, and I love it specifically because it leaves the swich in the on position. Installation is a breeze, and the switches are only $15 on Amazon. (Note, technically, it's a button, not a switch.)
Edit: Here's a link:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BKWG9XS/
Here's a GE z-wave outdoor plug.
It’s called an outlet timer. I’ve used this one: https://www.amazon.com/Multifunctional-Infinite-Programmable-Appliances-Energy-saving/dp/B01G6O28NA
This Zigbee switch should be compatible with the Hue bridge, but I can’t personally vouch for that as I don’t own any of these.
Here’s a helpful Amazon review for it, “After experimenting with adding this plug to my Philips Hue system, I finally figured out how to add it without any trouble. I held down the power button while inserting the plug into a wall socket. I kept the button held down for about 6 seconds and then heard a ‘click’ sound. I was then able to find the light with the iConnectHue app’s ‘Search’ feature. It could probably also be found this way with the Philips app, but I didn’t try that.”
I would change the Can Fan cycle 30 min on/off, as it is probably getting it really dry in there literally half the day. Buy a cycle timer like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G6O28NA and set it to something more like 2min on 18min off. 300 cubic feet of air change every 20 min is more than enough. This will also let the humidity catch up in your room.
Edit: Also, nice set up. Thank you for posting. Didn't mean to be all business. HA!
Do you use SmartThings? I ran into the same scenario with as you with the freezer/garage GFCI. I run this automation to ping a zigbee outlet to make sure it is running.
Sylvania Smart Home 72922 Sylvania LIGHTIFY Smart Plug, 1 Pack, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6UM8QD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1me5CbY46XR1S
https://community.smartthings.com/t/release-device-monitor-get-notified-if-devices-stop-reporting/41141
For the outlet, try the Sylvania Smart Home plug: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6UM8QD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mFh9BbDQ3RJ4N
I don't know of a specific grow light that has this function but you can buy an electrical timer for the socket. Here's is an example but I bought mine from a local hardware store for $5.
GE outdoor plug is on sale right now on amazon.
GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Lighting & Appliance Control Outdoor Module, On/Off, 1 Weather-Resistant Outlet Cover, Plug-in, Zwave Hub Required-Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 14284, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9NWFM3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_La48BbP4JGXCX
No problem! It turns off completely. I have this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Multifunctional-Infinite-Programmable-Appliances-Energy-Saving/dp/B01G6O28NA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=timed+light+plug&qid=1572303897&sr=8-3
You just set it to your preferred on and off times. Super easy to use.
I'd try something like this:
GoControl WA00Z-1 Z-Wave Scene-Controller Wall Switch (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BKWG9XS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OVnkzbF6605V6
However, I defer to the community if there's something confirmed.
I used this one for our Halloween setup. Worked pretty well (and I think it's currently on sale.)
https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Weather-Resistant-Required-Works-SmartThings-14284/dp/B06W9NWFM3?ref_=Oct_DLandingS_PC_5631bd19_NA&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Edit: Nevermind, this is zwave, not wireless.
The kratky method is a great beginners method to get into hydroponics. I currently have about 30 plants all doing the kratky.
General Hydroponics is a good brand and mix of nutrients. Its simple to use and doesnt require a scale to mesure stuff out. Use a tablespoon to measure stuff or a syringe.
Buy the PH up/down from GH too but be warned you will need to dilute it first or youre in for a fun time trying to correct your PH. (let me know when you get to this step and I can give better directions.
Get a simple PH tester. It will make your life a lot easier. Once I figured out that adding nutrients to my water brought my PH to around 5.9 I stopped testing everytime. (but i recommend that you do use it everytime)
You DO NOT need to grow in soil first, but like /u/BroposkisRump said you can just be careful washing off the roots. GOTO the youtube channels mentioned on check out Khang Starr's video first.
Some advice:
You cangrow those with no effort.
Thats all I got for now. Once you understand this method try hydroponics using a different method as well.
>The only caveat to all of this is those damn pesky light switches. If you turn a light off via the switch or someone else does, the whole argument about ease of use goes out the window. The lights don't work if they're powered off via the switch, so no voice commands. You'll get used to it and so will others that you live with. You can also buy smart swtiches or even covers for your switches if you want. I had thought of going one of these routes in the beginning, but my family caught on fairly quickly and now it's just normal to use your voice.
Get a light switch cover and then install one of these bad boys. It's actually a removable remote control, but I just keep it in the housing and it has the same functionality as a light switch (with dimming functionality and pre-progammed scenes). Gives you the convenience of a light switch without the inconvenience of one.
It’s also possible to do with a zigbee plug such as
Sylvania Smart Home 72922 Sylvania LIGHTIFY Smart Plug, 1 Pack, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6UM8QD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mFh9BbDQ3RJ4N
It shows up as a light on the Philips hue bridge.
I don't know the Wink system, but I use Smartthings which is similar. You should be able to pick up a compatible z-wave/zigbee plug, or outlet and a zwave/zigbee button and set up your hub to trigger the outlets when the button is pushed. I use a Samsung motion detector in my kitchen to trigger the lights on/off automatically and it works pretty well. I haven't used the Sylvania stuff, but it looks like it should do the job.
https://www.amazon.com/Sylvania-Smart-Home-72922-LIGHTIFY/dp/B01M6UM8QD
https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-General-Lighting-E21266-Lightify/dp/B01LXPGXQ1/
https://www.amazon.com/Sylvania-Smart-Home-74099-Functions/dp/B01M3OK6J7
Apparently the osram lightify stuff is branded as "sylvania" for US.
Amazon link
This should be the same but for 120V US outlets.
Cheapest I've found as of yet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M6UM8QD/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1DXN92KCKEQV4&psc=1
What about something like this?
GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Outdoor Module, On/Off, Plug-In, 1 Outlet with Weather-Resistant Outlet Cover, Black, Works with Amazon Alexa (Hub Required), 14284 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9NWFM3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OPzHAbMB9QM4R
I have a few of these, and I have no problem with them. $14.99 and zigbee.
I use them with my Hubitat hub, so they'll probably work perfect with SmartThings too, and HA I'm sure. Lot of the bad reviews center on it not being compatible with the hue hub anymore, or problems with Wink.
This "SYLVANIA Smart+ Indoor Plug" works with Hue for me in the USA.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M6UM8QD
A lot of this depends on how the fan and lights are wired.
In general, there should be two circuits in the fan- one for the fan motor, one for the lights. That means two pull chains since you say you use chains.
Complicating this is the fact that you have one and only one on-off switch, which probably kills power to the whole fan fixture.
If this were me, I'd hardwire the switch so that it ALWAYS supplies power. Or just cover the switch with something like this.
Then I'd get two Micro Switches or equivalent, and put them above the fan. One controls the fan motor circuit, the other controls the lighting circuit.
I'd then replace the pull chains with momentary pull chain switches and wire those into the micro switches to activate them.
End result of this- fan and light have working local control with the pull chains. The switch location has an on/off button that you program to turn on fan or light or both. And both are addressable in Google Home.
Also note- the products I linked are Z-Wave. To make them work with Google Home you'll need a hub to sit between Google Home and Z-Wave. Vera is a good choice, SmartThings works too.
You could get WiFi products instead- Here's a micro switch and while I couldn't find a switch cover plate like the Z-Wave one, there are a lot of WiFi light switches you could hardwire in as long as you have a neutral wire in the light switch box. Just wire hot to load (so the fan is always powered) and connect the switch to neutral and hot (so the switch gets power). Thus switch isn't actually switching anything, just sending a WiFi signal for Google Home to react to and turn on fan / light / etc.
While WiFi products don't require a hub, it does mean if you ever reset your WiFi password you'll have to dismantle your ceiling fan.
Sure thing!
So I used a Raspberry Pi, but you could also use a virtual server or old desktop. The nice thing about the Pi is it is super cheap and uses very little energy since you have to leave it on all the time. It is far cheaper to buy the Pi than to use an old desktop that is sitting around. Use Z-Wave Plus (aka Gen5) devices, the older non-plus devices can't be upgraded and most do not support encryption.
So, things you'll need:
A Raspberry Pi: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CD5VC92/
A Z-wave plus controller (I went with the Aeotec Gen5 because it is well supported by the project): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00X0AWA6E/
A cheap Raspberry Pi case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J1BNANM/
Z-wave plus devices you want to control. For the outdoor lights I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9NWFM3/
A MicroSD card (At least 8GB, the higher the class the better, but you don't need to go overboard) : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007KFXIDO/
An old micro USB phone charger
A MicroSD card reader
So there are several ways to install Home Assistant (https://home-assistant.io). I started trying out trying their new Hass.io operating system and found it just wasn't as stable as I would have liked as of yet and documentation was lacking. I'm not knocking the OS, but personally I ended up installing it on top of Raspbian Lite. To install, you’ll want to head over here: https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/noobs/ and follow the instructions on copying the files to your MicroSD card. When you get to the point of installing an OS, choose Raspbian Lite.
After you get done installing head over here: https://home-assistant.io/docs/installation/raspberry-pi/ . This gives a pretty straightforward installation guide on how to install on Raspbian Lite. It helps to have some familiarity with POSIX-oriented operating systems.
From this point on you can branch out in many directions depending on what you want to do. Home Assistant is highly customizable. Read the docs and follow examples. There are forums if you get stuck and I’d be happy to answer any questions or give suggestions for whatever use case you might have.
Hope that helps :-)
I have all my outdoor Christmas lights plugged into this: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Weather-Resistant-Required-Works-SmartThings-14284/dp/B06W9NWFM3
Its about 20 strings of lights total, mostly LED. No problems; I have a simple rule setup with WebCore to turn the lights on at Sunset and off at midnight.
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-WA00Z-1-Z-Wave-Scene-Controller-Switch/dp/B01BKWG9XS/
Try GE outdoor plug made by Jasco I think! I have one and works fine and just saw it’s on sale!!! GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Outdoor Smart Plug Switch, 1 On/Off Outlet, Weather-Resi... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9NWFM3/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_p9MMDbX15AAQZ
The device you want is called a "scene controller" and there are actually lots of them. I think for your uses you might like this one:
https://byjasco.com/products/ge-z-wave-wireless-keypad-controller
or https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-WA00Z-1-Z-Wave-Scene-Controller-Switch/dp/B01BKWG9XS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499479563&sr=8-1&keywords=zwave+scene+controller+battery
I have a couple of minimotes (https://www.buydig.com/shop/product.aspx?sku=E1AEONMINIMOTE ) in my house scattered around. The rechargeable batteries are generally good for ~2 months. I use a label maker to make the buttons purpose clear. My minimotes general have one button for thermostat up, another for thermostat down, and then two different lamp/lighting functions.
If your transformer has a timer, it may have to be set for "always on".
Likewise if you have a daylight detector, it will take priority, so your lights won't work until the sun goes down.
Otherwise there's no reason an exterior zwave switch wouldn't work. That one does fine for lights on my fence and patio.
Yup, 30 mins on/off works for me, for the first 24hrs I leave the pump on constantly though to help them deal with being cut off from the mother's life support.
This is the timer I use for cycles:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G6O28NA/
edit: it's worth noting though they should root even with 24hr on, so it's likely a problem elsewhere.
double edit: I just found a cheaper one tht looks identical... https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Digital-Programmable-Countdown-Gardening/dp/B01N78E9ZT
Here's an option
I don't know if this is the best, but it's easy to use and reliable.
Timer Outlet, Nearpow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G6O28NA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I've been using it for 6 months with no problems
The cheapest and easiest way you can do it is probably by not using an arduino (especially if you value your time!). If you are in it for the fun of the build, go for it, but I have a recommendation if you just want to water your plants.
I grew indoor plants for several years at medium scale (60 plants, 20,000 watts), and now grow commercially for the recreational market in OR.
Start with a short cycle timer like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Multifunctional-Infinite-Programmable-Appliances-Energy-saving/dp/B01G6O28NA
and a pond pump like this (get whatever size you need, generally 100gph per 5 gal of medium/soil is more than enough for very thirsty plants - so this one would water 5-6 large plants in 5 gallon pots):
https://www.amazon.com/KEDSUM-Submersible-Aquarium-Powerhead-Hydroponic/dp/B017R708QO/
Then use a Rubbermaid Brute (commercial) trash can as a reservoir (they come in sizes from 10gal-50gal depending on your needs). They are a bit more expensive, but cheaper than flooding your house or apartment:
I use these: https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Commercial-Recycler-Rollout-Hinged/dp/B0007845JC/
and these: https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Commercial-FG263256GRAY-Plastic-32-gallon/dp/B005KDAQ3I/
You can likely find the trash cans cheaper at a big-box hardware store. they are generally $1/gallon.
let me know if you have any questions and id be happy to help!
Some routers have the ability to do scheduled restarts, but not a whole lot of them have the ability to turn themselves on and off (at least to my knowledge). The last time this question was raised, the top answer was to use some form of outlet timer (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Multifunctional-Infinite-Programmable-Appliances-Energy-saving/dp/B01G6O28NA)
*Note* I've never used that product before. It's just for reference.
Ah, you'd think the switch would be waterproof given it's designed location, but unless it specifies it I wouldn't put it in a wet location. You could bypass using the one supplied and put in a mag like this one https://www.amazon.com/Directed-Electronics-8601-Magnetic-Switch/dp/B0009SUF08/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1484926127&sr=8-7&keywords=pin+switch
Two of these (one for each door) could be your sensors. I recommend you connect them to a little 2-chip electronic circuit that you've built, which
Glue the sensors to the fridge using removable glue, such as silicone caulk. Now you can resell the fridge in pristine original condition if you so desire
You need one that is "Normally closed" or "N.C."
This one has both "Normally closed" and "Normally open" and will work
https://www.amazon.com/Directed-Electronics-8601-Magnetic-Switch/dp/B0009SUF08/
.
I really like this line -- Ships from and sold by Amazon.com.
.
There is also this type that uses a button that is pressed when the door is closed.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YDT2MC/ref=psdc_13397451_t1_B00M0YP1PS
From the picture, you can see "COM", "NC", and "NO"
COM and NC are electrically connected when the button is NOT pushed, but
COM and NO are electrically connected when the button is pushed (<-not important to your design)
.
Btw, something to consider before you go too far. Plan ahead and verify things will work.
There is an old saying "measure twice, cut once". In woordworking I learned a term "dry-fit",
which means to fit all the pieces together without glue or nails to make sure things will fit properly.
Make sure you use the Enerwave dual z-wave relays, and not the Monoprice ones. The Enerwave relays work great with Wink. Lots of reports of issues with the Monoprice ones. I had one explode inside the gang box
Also, if all you want is for the controlled outlet to be the bottom one, then there are a few choices that work with Wink:
These are cheaper than using the Enerwave z-wave dual relay to make two controlled outlets, although the latter is more useful in many situations.
You are welcome, as far as the camera goes I search on eBay and use the keywords "Vivint ping camera" (I am unsure how to link an auction from my phone. As far as add ons to my system I use 2gig PIR1 Passive Infrared Motion Detector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TZ73C6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ng.CzbM9GCJSE for the motion sensor, GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer Switch, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wi.Czb8H4K514 for my dimmers, Previous Model: GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12730 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1i.CzbBD0V1RF for my ceiling fans, GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Duplex Receptacle Outlet, On/Off, In-Wall, White, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12721 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Lj.CzbQAY9KV4 for my outlets. I have found home automation to be addicting and expensive haha.
The GE one. These have always worked great for me.
If you can stretch your $50 budget to $83, then you can get one smarthings hub and one GE outlet
I did this a couple weeks ago. Easy to set up; works great.
I use the GE lighting module for this purpose: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013V58HU/
It's $35 US (in the US), and it has a Zwave controlled outlet plus a non controlled outlet on it. For an extra 5, there is a Dimmable version as well. It can handle up to 600 watts. I've got two of them in my house now, and they've worked flawlessly for quite a while.
I use a very lite home automation controller
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007005364/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1419693424&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
With an appliance module that has a power strip connected to it. Turning the appliance module on and off using the vera plugins for tasker will turn the Chromecast and TV on by activating the power strip which they are plugged into.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013V58HU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1419693510&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
Not all TVs work this way. You can test to see if your TV will work by turning the TV on and unplugging it from the wall and plugging it back in. If it turns back on, your TV can do this. If it does not turn back on without you hitting the power button on the TV, you'll have to find another solution.
I have all of my outdoor lighting automated.
In combination with a few other devices, door sensors, ring door bell for motion, garage door automation (MyQ) etc. I can setup a multitude of different scenarios. Open the front door, lights go full brightness, close door dim them back down. Motion from the ring at night, crank the brightness up. Open the garage door, turn on the light above the garage to full brightness. Most of the lights turn on about 15 mins before sunset with some nice transitions in brightness.
I use GE Z-Wave Outdoor Modules that I plug into the low voltage transformers that are always set to the on position. That way I can just toggle the switch on thus turning on the transformer and the lights.
In most of the outdoor fixtures I use Smart Bulbs (the lights that are shielded from the elements). My front porch I use Hue Color that I automated for holiday lights. I have a detached garage that I
put in a Lutron Caseta dimmer since the switch was in the house.
Essentially I used a variety of devices to tackle each lighting situation based on what would work best and then automate everything with Home Assistant. You can see all my devices and automations here.
I plugged mine into this. Works great with my smartthings hub.
GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Outdoor Module, On/Off, Plug-In, Black, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12720 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V8K3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_nlMAoRWuALZw1
What's so bad about an enclosure? Anything you get outdoor and zwave will either be in an enclosure, or will be like this thing: http://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Outdoor/dp/B0013V8K3O
These can do up to 1800 watts resistive so should work: https://www.amazon.com/GE-45604-Technology-Outdoor-Lighting/dp/B0013V8K3O. Yuo may need to look around to find one though.
Thank you for pointing those string lights out. Not only are they somewhat more cost efficient (at the current price), that product page links to this GE Z-Wave outdoor plug. It says it works with Harmony hub, which I have but I'm still not sure if:
I got this one and it works great so far.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013V8K3O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I use a GE 12720 which is an outdoor switch that can turn the lights on and off. I got mine from Amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013V8K3O?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00.
The GE product is not in the wink app so go to the power page and use the Leviton Plug-In Appliance Module.
One of these bad boys.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035GF8NA/
One of these + one of these is what I have set up. Only downside is the light turns on suddenly but you get used to that. And it's cheap! (And winter is coming... no one likes waking up in the dark).
I've got my turtles' lights on a timer, and my girlfriend has her beardie's on a timer too. Totally hassle free, which is good because I'm half lazy and the other half busy. They're like $10 for good ones with a decent current rating. I've got two 100W lights running off a single one of these with no problems.
Cheap wireless router + outlet timer = stupid easy access control (assuming the room you keep them in is secure).
I too dislike the idea of an unattended heat source being on 24/7.. Have you considered an outlet timer? Set it for 30 mins before you're off work and come home to a warm nano every day? www.amazon.com/GE-24-Hour-Mechanical-Grounded-Outlet/dp/B0035GF8NA/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1453206480&sr=8-7&keywords=outlet+timer
I ended up buying a new crockpot that has a built in timer, but before that, I used this cheap and simple timer which worked fine for my needs.
I recommend this one.
I’ve had good luck with just daylight led bulbs. Just amazon the daylight led t8 bulbs. You can also hook up a timer switch to mock daylight hours. Honeywell Home RPLS740B1008 Econoswitch 7-Day Programmable Light Switch Timer White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004AP92N2
I keep them 6-24 inches from the plants with a small fan to help them dry out between watering
This sounds like the BS I went through with my grandmother. She was entirely focused on photoelectric eyes for dusk-and-dawn and didn't respond to the idea of motion sensing or timers. The result was a lot of halogen lights that would stay on for 12 hours at a time and burned out fairly quickly and attempts at CFLs that burned out even quicker due to the photoelectric eye.
LEDs are likely to run cool enough that they won't care about an enclosure... mine don't. I'd also recommend a 7 day timer like this solar one, that adjusts to date-based dusk/dawn cycles. https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Econoswitch-RPLS740B-Programmable-Switch/dp/B004AP92N2
How about a timer instead? I have a programmable timer on my front light that automatically comes on at sunset and shuts off at 10pm (or a different time you program). And recognizes changes in sunset times.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AP92N2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
it's not exactly a "smart" switch, but i got this switch that lets you plug in your lat/lon, date, and time, and it automatically flips the lights on at dusk and on at dawn based on a preprogrammed schedule. this handles my front porch light and my driveway light. it can also be programmed to turn off at a specific time if you don't want the light on all night long, but i have LEDs in so i just keep them on all night. there's also a button that will let you control the lights off schedule as well.
very easy to install, requires zero intervention once programmed. i'm strongly considering getting a second to control my side porch light as well.
Until they nail down what in the firmware causes the random dirt naps, if you are real worried about it get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Woods-50007WD-24-Hour-Digital-Polarized/dp/B005WQIDHY (They were on a stupid-good sale a week ago so they are currently low on stock, I paid $7.50 for 4 of them). Just set it to reboot once a day and you should be good.
I have it on a timer, like this. I absolutely cannot wake up when it's dark. Having the light turn on 10 minutes before my alarm really helps me.
I use these: http://amzn.com/B005WQIDHY
They allow two on/off periods per day and work great for me. There is an easy override too.
It's the little things that make the journey that much better. :) (You could always get an outlet timer to turn it on automatically, btw.)
My dad has a Christmas light timer for his. Starts when he turns the lights off when he leaves and runs for 6 hours(I think) then stays off until the lights come back on.
While not the same thing. I use a mechanical timer for my dehydrator. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LYHED0/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_r-fntb0DC62QJ
Just plug it in, let it run. Get the stuff out the next morning. Usually for that, I will have it turn on for a few minutes every hour or so even after the actual dry time so the stuff doesn't absorb moisture before I get to it.
I just use these. Cheap and works well.
Timer search on Amazon.
I have posted Amazon links to what I use below. You should be able to do under $20 for just 5 plants. I haven't used these long but my plants seem like they are pretty happy with it so far.
The lamp.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHQ94C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The bulb.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005P29K1S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Optional Timer.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LYHED0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I'm on my phone so I'll try to come back with a link but I've seen these outlet timers you could use? Basically plug it between your slow cooker and the wall outlet and it keeps power from hitting your cooker until whatever time you set. Originally made to turn lamps on at night but would work. That way you could get whatever slow cooker you liked, set it, then it wouldn't come on until you wanted it to.
Edit: something like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006LYHED0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1396462397&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006LYHED0/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483374648&amp;sr=sr-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=timer
Extremely convenient. Plug the timer into an outlet, turn the little arrow to the current time, and push down the tabs for the time you want the light on. Set it to timer mode and you are good to go. It's very intuitive when you use it.
Do you have an existing z-wave system at all? If you wanted to do so in the future, and not replace the dimmer, you could wire in an in-line dimmer (assuming the fixtures are dimable) and then put in a wireless switch that is tied to the z-wave modules.
http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-Aeotec-Z-Wave-Edition/dp/B008VWAPU4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406580706&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=aeotec
http://www.smarthome.com/59373/GE-45631-Z-Wave-Wireless-Keypad-Controller/p.aspx
GE makes a toggle-style switch, which is what I imagine you have in your home: https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Z-Wave-15-amp-Single-Pole-3-way-Wireless-White-Toggle-Indoor-Light-Switch/1000241625
You could also purchase "micro switches" that would go behind your regular ("dumb") switch and add the smart capability: https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC18103-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B008VWAPU4
Given it's an old home, how much renovation you can do? A past home I've owned was heritage listed, so small installations were the most I could achieve - that brought me to Z-Wave (wireless), a hub (Vera at the time), and in-wall micro controllers from Aeotec http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-Aeotec-Edition-DSC18103-ZWUS/dp/B008VWAPU4
Micro zwave switch in the gang box for the switch or at the light.
Switch interrupts the "hot" wire to the light.
Put the HA controller on a schedule to be off from bedtime til morning.
Switch will work normally at all other times.
Aeon Labs DSC18103-ZWUS,White,US,AL001 Aeotec Z-Wave Micro Smart Energy Switch, 2nd Edition, White, Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWAPU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2H-Nzb7KB7F84
Look for in-wall micro relays like these. You use your existing switches. You pull the load wire off the existing switch and put it on the relay, then the load from the switch goes into the relay and acts as a trigger.
My wife burnt our counter top in our bathroom. I put in an outlet with this.
I have a controller let me know if it is consuming energy. If it consumes energy for greater than 30 minutes, I turn the outlet off.
SmartThings home automation hub:
https://www.smartthings.com/
This is the module I wired into the box with my doorbell transformer:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008VWAPU4/
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In the SmartThings app on my phone, I can turn devices off and on remotely. Could even schedule a weekly reboot if I wanted to.
key word here was apartment. I wouldn't be doing any electrical work if I was renting. You are just asking for a heap of trouble. I agree that smart switches are way better but for an apartment bulbs are probably the safest bet. Rocker Blocker or Toggle Blocker work if you are worried about guests hitting switches.
Search for Shabbat light switch cover. You will find a bunch of options. For instance:
https://www.amazon.com/Option-Switch-Guards-Clear-Toggle/dp/B00DTXKOTM/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=shabbat+light+switch+cover&amp;qid=1570197758&amp;sr=8-6
https://www.amazon.com/Option-Switch-Guards-Clear-Rocker/dp/B00DUBOSTA/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=shabbat+light+switch+cover&amp;qid=1570197758&amp;sr=8-14
Install a light switch guard over the switch.
https://www.amazon.com/Light-Switch-Guard-Toggle-Shields/dp/B00DTXKOTM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478112560&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Light+Switch+Guard
Thats what I have done for switched lights that I'm using smart bulbs with.
There are proper ways to remove a switch in a circuit but without consulting an electrician that's familiar with the code where you live I'd not try to DIY it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRI1CEK
They also have a newer nano dimmer
What about putting these behind each light fixture? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRI1CEK/ref=s9_simh_gw_g60_i16_r?ie=UTF8&amp;fpl=fresh&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-1&amp;pf_rd_r=188KJ4F4SWSHAZZX1WH4&amp;pf_rd_t=36701&amp;pf_rd_p=5d23eaf6-6278-49c1-b6df-7de0cb9b3a26&amp;pf_rd_i=desktop
I've never seen a bulb like that... You might be able to put an in wall switch inside the junction box where the power comes into the hood. Would require some wiring know-how, so only try this if you're comfortable with that kind of thing.
I'm a big fan of Lutron. Their in-wall and plug-in dimmers can work without a hub. Then if you eventually decide you want Homekit and other such features, you can easily add in a hub.
In-wall dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G
Plug-in dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer-300-watt/dp/B00JJY1QG0
http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-PKG1P-WH-Wireless-300-watt-100-watt/dp/B00JJY1QG0
The Lutron Caseta plug-in dimmer might be a good choice. Amazon Link.
Put in any light fixture and bulbs you want and use a Lutron Caseta in wall dimmer switch. First light switch is about 100 bucks,
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-BDG-PKG1W-Caseta-Wireless-Selected/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=sr_1_3?s=lamps-light&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482958038&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=lutron+caseta
This includes the Smart hub needed to make it internet accessible.
Each additional switch thereafter is around 50$.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer-150-Watt/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_2?s=lamps-light&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482958148&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=lutron+caseta
You can also purchase them with remotes for $60
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=sr_1_1?s=lamps-light&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482958148&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=lutron+caseta
and you can purchase plug in versions that allow you to control standard lamps and such ($60)
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer-300-watt/dp/B00JJY1QG0/ref=sr_1_7?s=lamps-light&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482958148&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=lutron+caseta
Lutron Caseta is not only compatible with alexa, ("alexa turn my living room to 50%" "alexa turn off my bed room" "alexa turn my living room to 10%" etc.) it is also fully homekit enabled. ("Hey siri, set my chamber to 2%" ) and utilizing the home app on your iDevice, you can set up schedules and such, for example my bedroom light turns on to 10% 30min before my alarm, and up to 50% 5 minutes before my alarm. This really helps me wake up on time.
Lutron caseta work great. worth the money
Look into the Lutron Caseta, you can control the lights with the echo.
Lutron P-BDG-PKG1W Caseta Wireless Dimmer Kit with Smart Bridge for Amazon Alexa and Selected Models, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_J2ZyybHJ5QBGH
I love a good Home Depot run as much as the next, but also, make sure you aren't getting price-gouged: on Amazon. And you are very welcome. I like to help.
-WRONG-
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PD-5WS-DV-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Lighting/dp/B00NO7Z80S
I also have 40+ bulbs running halogen and LED bulbs on the Caseta dimmers. Saying it only works for incandescent is about as wrong as saying fire isn't hot.
The dimmers go from Off (0% brightness) to On (100% brightness) in discrete increments. If you need an on/off switch that doesn't require a neutral, then take a look at this Caseta switch. Dependent on your lighting, you may have to use a minimum load capacitor (provided with the switch).
Lutron PD-5WS-DV-WH Caseta Wireless 5 Amp Lighting and 3 Amp Fan RF On/Off Light Switch, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NO7Z80S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-Sg7Ab8RP8M9Z
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NO7Z80S/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=A27U5ZM1ERPBP4&amp;psc=1
Edit to add: if you’ve got several switches you want to replace it may be cheaper to get dimmer switches and new bulbs.
For the same price as 2 of these switches you can get 2 dimmers and a 16 pack of dimmable bulbs
I used this for an outlet most recemtly:
GoControl WO15Z-1 Z-Wave Single Wall Outlet, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFK1YRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WW8iybATX7XG4
This is the plug in lamp dimmer module
GE Lighting Lamp Module with Dimmer Control, Z-Wave, Plug-In, White, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMM7E6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2X8iybCTVJ88R
This is the regular switch... Notice this is a "regular" style but you can find it in paddle as well.
GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control Smart Toggle Switch, In-Wall, White, 12727 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGOHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_d08iybB4CY6HZ
I just replaced the switches in a four gang box with these which are being controlled by a Smartthings hub.
The GE Z-wave switches are the only toggle type switches I could find. They can be purchased as regular switches or dimmers and can do three or four way switching.
They fit in my box, cramped but, it worked.
Cloud based control from your phone or Alexa. Switch still works like a regular switch, it just stays in the middle all the time.
Nice thing is you can buy others and add them as you want.
I've been using the GE z-wave toggle switches with SmartThings and haven't had any issues. I initially tried to avoid replacing the switches and put in the smart bulbs but our issue was if the power goes out in the middle of the night the bulbs would then turn on and wake us up. The other added benefit with the switches is that anyone visiting doesn't need anything special to control the lights (parents, friends, dog watchers).
Just as a tip, when installing the switches we had issues with them working in the first hour or so (probably due to needing to do the z-wave network repair). Initially the z-wave network repair was failing. What I found worked was to install the switch, connect to smartthings and do setup for a couple minutes, flip breaker to kill power to switch for 10 minutes, turn breaker back on, and then run the z-wave network repair. Since doing that process we've had zero issues. Hope this helps you out.
Edit: Here is the link to how to do SmartThings Z-Wave Repair :) https://support.smartthings.com/hc/en-us/articles/200981864-How-do-I-make-sure-my-Z-Wave-devices-are-routing-optimally-
It sounds like you want an on/off switch.
GE makes those but other manufacturers probably do as well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYMGOHM/ref=crt_ewc_title_gw_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
We recently installed these GE switches and have so far liked them a lot. They don't look dramatically different from traditional switches, and you can then use whatever bulb you need in the actual outlet.
Just as a note, we did have issues with the newer SmartThings app automating the lights coming on at night and going off in the morning, but it seemed to be an issue with the app- we used the classic app and it's worked perfectly ever since.
The switch I'm installing tonight/tomorrow is just a GE Z-wave switch, one of these. The fan that I have operates on standard 110 power, it's almost exactly one of these
Installing it last weekend was a lot of work, so I haven't ran a real switch to it yet. I cheated and wired it up to an extension cord, and plugged that in to a wifi outlet. I just wanted to see it in action and ran out of time before mother's day plans happened.
So no existing timer switch yet. If I wasn't doing a z-wave switch, I'd be installing a timer switch like you have. That's what my neighbor has and he says it works great. I'll use a timer component to set this up so that it turns off automatically after a period as well.
EDIT: Also, thanks for making me think about automatic "shut off" conditions! Auto shut off is a great idea.
Assume you mean THIS and not THIS?
It looks like if you do mean the first one, that is kinda pointless with Alexa. You can create your own scenes and just activate them via voice, not sure why you'd want to press a button to do it.
But, to your question, it looks like you don't need the hub with the Echo Plus
"Echo Plus is a simple way to start your smart home. It has a built-in ZigBee smart home hub, which allows for simple and direct setup of compatible ZigBee lights, locks, plugs, and in-wall switches from brands like Philips Hue, GE, and Yale. No additional hub required."
Edit: Now I am curious by what they mean by "in-wall switches", maybe just plain smart lights still need a hub.
For number 3, you could replace the switch with a Z-wave dimmer switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2
And then get one of several hubs that works with the switch and Echo, like Smartthings for example:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Hub-2nd-Generation/dp/B010NZV0GE
That setup might let you use your current bulbs with Alexa without having to swap them all out for Phillips Hue or LIFX. I say "might" because not all dimmable LEDs work well with all dimmer switches. Probably want to buy the switch first without the hub and try it. This setup also has the added benefit over Hue lights of still being able to use the physical switch for dimming without having to add a Hue dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/Philips-458141-Hue-Dimmer-Switch/dp/B0167Z0P3I.
Making Hue lights usable by the rest of the family is definitely a concern. You have a couple of easy options:
Depending on your specific needs you'll probably want to use a combination of these things.
The dimmer switches work well, you can press the On button repeatedly to pick between 4 scenes, and then change the brightness of a scene once it is set.
I just started playing with the motion sensor and it's definitely nice to have the lights respond without having to explicitly turn them on and off, but not everything will make sense to be triggered by motion.
I also find myself frequently using Alexa to control the lights. The main consideration here is that you will need to group your lights into rooms and make sure everyone in the family knows what the names of the rooms/lights are. Alexa has the ability to set light brightness, set a specific color, or change to a Hue scene. It's fairly flexible.
Eventually you'll want to get fancy and set up a home automation hub like SmartThings or HomeAssistant to let you bring in devices from multiple ecosystems (Hue, Arlo, etc) and create automation rules to run everything, but for now it sounds like you'd be happy with a few of the Hue accessories to make the lights easier to control. Good news is that Hue is designed to be user-friendly and all of the options I listed will let you do basic control pretty easily. When you outgrow that, you have more advanced options available to you.
Hope it helps, and let us know if you have any specific questions about how to set stuff up.
Hey so I totally agree with you that I wish you could use a regular switch to turn on/off smart bulbs without them disconnecting from the network, so I feel your frustration.
What I've done to get around this (and yes, still sucks, but that's why I've since stopped using smart bulbs on my main lights - I use them in lamps and lights above/around my TV) is use Philips Switches.
They can be found here:
Philips Hue Smart Dimmer Switch with Remote (Installation-Free, Exclusive for Philips Hue Lights) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0167Z0P3I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_x.OTzbYS7KK2Q
There's no wiring required and I put them next to my normal switches.
An example would be my family room lamps. I just leave them powered on and I put that switch referenced above to turn them on and off and dim.
Still sucks when a babysitter or something manually turns the lamp off, but oh well, I try to let them know beforehand.
Those switches are actually rock solid and have never failed me in 3yrs.
Hopefully this is what you're asking!
Ah completely different topic than I was expecting. The 12 solution I showed for the $18 battery seems like it would a perfect rechargeable replacement with significantly longer battery life.
Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Directed-Electronics-8601-Magnetic-Switch/dp/B0009SUF08
May be an alternative solution with a magnetic switch. You could put one end of the magnet on the trunk. As this magnetic package isn't the best, you can probably take any strong magnet and paint it black and adhere that in some fashion you see appropriate to the back of your trunk, and the light will turn on upon opening of the trunk.
I'm surprised they didn't put a light in that compartment for when you open the trunk, my civic hatchback has one back there which I've considered replacing with high end LEDs.
Ok, didn't know they used reed switches in those things. I thought they used hall effect sensors. You can get cheap reed switches, but would need to do some soldering or use a breadboard. Conversely, using a window alarm such as this will cost a bit more but give a more professional look.
I used this one in my closet, behind a bifold door.
So far so good, been working reliably.
So would something like this work? https://www.amazon.com/Directed-Electronics-8601-Magnetic-Switch/dp/B0009SUF08/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=nc+door+switch&qid=1573847969&sr=8-6
I'm just confused because the circuit is complete when it isn't pressed in because the power contact is grounded, but when the switch is pressed in, the ground is lost and then open circuit, right?
you can get a basic magnetic switch if you want the lights to always be on when the door opens. check this out.
https://www.amazon.com/Directed-Electronics-8601-Magnetic-Switch/dp/B0009SUF08/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520624376&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=magnetic+door+switch&amp;dpID=41DVM6RPZAL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Wire this into the power lead from the power supply, or even after the controller, on the 12v lead to the LED strip, that way controller is always powered and keeps it's settings 100%, and you rely on the door switch to complete or disconnect the circuit.
I bought a laser crosshair that runs off of a 5V wall-wart. It's mounted on the garage ceiling and lined up to a point on my dashboard. I combined that with a simple magnetic switch wired from the garage door so it only comes on when the door is open.
The laser lines are long enough so I can use it to guide me in.
This has allowed me to place my car within 1/4" of where I need it to be so I can open the doors and trunk without banging into something (There is literally 1/2" clearance for a couple of the doors).
Hope this helps.
So I had several closets that were very dark and hard to see in. None had outlets and I didn't feel like getting anything wired in. So I made these lights using AA batteries. You can find everything on Amazon. Perfect for apartments too! One closet comes in at around $30, less if you don't get nice rechargeable batteries like I did.
Switch
Lights
Case
Overall I spent about $126 because I used a lot of material that I already had (baseboard, paint, romex).
Materials Used:
Leftover 7/16" OSB sheathing cut to size
(2) Closetmaid Cubeicals
Existing baseboard
1" x 12" pine board
Shelf hardware
Paint
Painter's Putty
Caulk
Primed Quarter Round
LED light strip
12v Power Supply
(2) LED PCB connectors
Magnetic Door Switch
(2) Old Work Boxes
Romex Cable
Outlet
Outlet Cover
^ This - just setup an aeotec zwave dry contact sensor ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0155HSUUY ) connected to a magnetic reed switch ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009SUF08 ). Had to drill a small hole for wiring in the bottom of my metal mailbox and mounted the sensor outside the box (for reception) - put the sensor directly underneath the box and it seems to be well hidden and protected from the elements with excellent long distance range.
The setup has been a game changer for me - i get an immediate smartthings alert the second the box is opened. I startled my neighbor the other day when he put mis-delivered mail in my box and i was outside 10 seconds later to greet him.
I went through the following tutorial recently and got my after market pedal working on RB4.
http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Custom-Rock-Band-Pedal-just-like-the-Destroye/
I bought the following magnetic switch and it works great.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009SUF08/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Depending on how you run the wire, you can use normally closed or normally open. There were instructions for each setup on various sites, so I went with one that can do either to make sure I was set.
All you have to do is buy a mono plug cable (as opposed to stereo), strip it, hook it up to the magnetic switch, glue one side of the switch to the pedal, the other side to a point on the pedal where the sides are close to touching when the pedal is pressed, and you're good to go.
Here are some options for a Z-Wave power outlets:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Receptacle-Resistant-14288/dp/B07361JZ2H/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509975700&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=zwave+power+outlet
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Receptacle-12721/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509975700&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=zwave+power+outlet
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DZR15-1RZ-Controls-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B01N6HT2YN/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509975700&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=zwave+power+outlet
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-DSC11-Sockets/dp/B00H3RL6JW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509975700&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=zwave+power+outlet
Oh yeah, something like that would be cool after I decide on the hub (I'm like 90% sure I'll want some zwave compatibility). Kind of wish it ALSO had dumb timer options for my hub-less self now, but that is one to definitely bookmark for me, thanks!
This isn't time sensitive, I was just looking in my backyard and thought I'd post to see what was out there. I wonder if I can actually just install one of these (or similiar) in the GFCI outlet (that is encased) actually...
Will these work? They're about 15 bucks cheaper and supported by Wink.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Receptacle-12721/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_1?s=lamps-light&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501015861&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ge+zwave
Edit: Probably not as I think they're only 15A
Here's what you asked for
Hub:
Wink Hub 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KW8WGZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_D2e7ybH4AEXCA
Bulbs:
Hue White Ambiance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ESW34RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_B0e7ybX5B7KF0
Lock:
August Smart Lock (2nd Gen) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0168IXNZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_R3e7ybSK95NFG
Outlets:
GE Z-Wave Wireless Control Duplex Receptacle Outlet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_04e7ybQXPB1TX
Based on what you said about a nice slick UI I think the Wink 2 wins that battle over a Samsung Smart Things hub. Plus if you get into adding shades Lutron makes a nice z wave shade called the Serena and the Wink 2 can operate Lutron devices without needing another hub. It's not as customizable as Smart Things, but I think it works well and has good support behind it.
The Hue Ambiance bulbs are nice, does tons of white light shades only so it fits your requirements there. You will need a Hue bridge, but that integrates with the Wink 2 nicely.
If you can get the August lock with Z-wave functionality I'd go with that over what I linked because I think the normal August is pretty shit, but it's the only lock I know of where you can assign one time use codes or time sensitive ones. Getting the normal (Bluetooth) August lock online requires the August Connect and its a buggy piece of shit that barely works even with the best connection and very close to the lock. Maybe software will\has fixed it but in my prior experience with it I was very not impressed. You can also add a keypad to the August on the secured side of the door. All those extras add up though, but you can do everything you said was required with the August that I believe no other lock can do.
The outlets are pretty self explanatory, work off Z-wave and only one plug is automated the other is always on.
Alexa can integrate with everything I listed, all you need to do is give everything a unique name and have her find the smart home devices and you can give simple commands like, "Alexa turn off kitchen light" and it'll do it.
You could definitely get more complicated setups but all of these things will work together, you could even pair your Ecobee with the Wink 2 if you wanted to.
You could buy a z-wave outlet like this or this, and then set up an automation for it only go on when you are in away mode. The only downside to this is that you will get an Uh-oh/fault notification (on the web or mobile app) from your glass break sensor when you try to arm your system (because there's no power), so for instance, you may have to arm your system twice from the keypad to push through the Uh-oh notification.
I almost pulled the trigger on one of these, but wouldn't it make more sense (and be a bit cheaper) to simply replace the outlet itself?
So to add to my previous comment, im not sure about commercially, but if you latch this onto the gate where it swings out it will keep it in place with a little handy work and depending on the gate style.
https://www.amazon.com/27-5A-Spring-Plunger-Solenoid-Electromagnet/dp/B00S4U3WWQ
Combine this with a Zwave plug or a timer to power it on when you want the gate to become free. You could angle the gate or spring load it from the opposite side to free open.
https://www.amazon.com/General-Mechanical-Multiple-Lighting-Polarized/dp/B00435FRXS/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479876032&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=timer+plug
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Receptacle-Wireless/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479876060&amp;sr=1-1-catcorr&amp;keywords=GE+zwave+outlet
the other ways are probably safer if you are not sure.
but just a receptacle like http://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Receptacle/dp/B0013V1SRY
and a relay.
its very similar to this setup
http://www.instructables.com/id/Z-Wave-Garage-Door-Opener-Switch/?ALLSTEPS
plus i have a zwave door / window sensor to tell me the garage door state.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013V1SRY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I would not use bulbs unless you want some sort of multicolor control. Plugin modules are a much better idea and are cheaper overall.
Ex:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Appliance-12719/dp/B0013V58HU
You can even get one that measures power consumption:
http://aeotec.com/z-wave-plug-in-switch
If I were to buy a z-wave module such as this one, how would I communicate with it? Is there a monthly payment to someone or can my phone just talk to it? Also, is it as simple as plugging it into my outlet and it's set up?
Why not just use a normal z-wave outlet switch like this guy:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Appliance-12719/dp/B0013V58HU/ref=sr_1_2?s=lamps-light&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483521194&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=z-wave+outlet
or
https://www.amazon.com/Insteon-Smart-Works-Amazon-Alexa/dp/B00G5R6S9O/ref=sr_1_4?s=lamps-light&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483521251&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=insteon+switch
My insteon switch even detects when I use the lamp on off switch itself after a couple of clicks, so turning it on or off again from the app still works. It's pretty uncanny.
No, this is an independent venting fan upstairs. It's connected to a standard 110v wifi plug and integrated with IFTTT for an IF Temp drops below 73, THAN SMARTTHINGS Switch to On.
I did it with a relay switch and wired it to the garage opener. I also needed to wire a power cord to it so that I can plug it into a Z-wave Plug-in switch. Then I set a rule on my hub to switch it on and off immediately. This action replicates the shorting of the wire that a normal garage button does. This method is easiest compatibility since you can use whatever Plug-in switch that works with your hub, and it also acts as another repeater for your other z-wave devices.
This site goes into more details on how to wire everything: http://24-7-home-security.com/how-to-make-a-smart-garage-door-opener-that-works-with-any-protocol/
I also bought the Z-wave tilt sensor and mount on the garage door, which lets me know when the garage is opened or closed.
Yeah, this is possible. Just buy a z-wave plug (I use this one) and plug your AC into it. Turn your AC on. Then, whenever you turn the plug on via SmartThings, the AC turns on. If you turn the plug off, it cuts the AC's power, and the AC is off.
Really simple way to turn a dumb AC into a smart-ish AC.
Well, I have this one which I really like. I just now noticed that Amazon doesn't sell it anymore and I have no idea why. I paid around $30 for it. It has good reviews.
No on those ones it seems, but any Z-Wave ones will work. I have a couple of these https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Lighting-Control-Appliance-12719/dp/B0013V58HU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478553902&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=z-wave+plug+in+switch
Sorry, I should clarify. I don't have smart switches, I have dumb ones. They cut off power to the lights if I need them off in a case like this, and when you turn the power back on, Hue bulbs default to on.
I believe this is a setting option with LIFX.
I also have these with dumb bulbs and they are load sensing, so if I turn it off and then on again, it will provide power to the bulb, regardless of the commands it is/isn't receiving from my hub.
Hope this helps!
You didn't mention a budget, so how about 5 z-wave modules controlled by a hub. You could manually change which lamps are on, or have it automatically switch based on programmed events.
I've got two of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V58HU/ref=psdc_6478741011_t1_B0013V1SRY
I use a few of these to control power to lighthouses and hmd.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013V58HU
With home automation they are part of the "start up" process for my TV/receiver with the htpc always on. If you prefer a fail proof (so far for me) method and have a little extra to spend I'd say it's worth it.
I can confirm that the Z-Wave GE 45603 plug-in appliance module works with the Wink hub.
I have on/off control, but the on/off status is not reflected correctly in the app.
I paired it with the Wink hub not using the "Add a product" function, but rather by selecting the Hub from the Home screen, then by hitting the "..." button in the top right, then "<my hub name>", then "Z-Wave Controls", then "INCLUSION MODE", then I hit the physical button on the front of the plug-in module and then got a green light on the hub to indicate successful pairing.
Not looking for lights, I plan to use bulb string lights. I'm in need of something like this ( http://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Outdoor/dp/B0013V8K3O) to use on an outdoor light. The one I linked does not provide the dimming feature. The main question I have is finding one that works with multiple LED lights without causing a flicker.
I'm not sure what existing system you have already... but here's how I would do it.
Leave the switch in the ON position 24/7.
For the GFCI outlet, depending on how you would use it and if you want control over it, I would get this GE z wave outdoor dongle.
http://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Outdoor/dp/B0013V8K3O
For lights, I would get either the GE Link bulbs or Wemo bulbs, or Philips Hue. With its respective hub (or Smartthings Hub), you're able to control the lights thru your phone.
I was thinking something like this
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V8K3O/ref=pe_385040_30332200_TE_item
But you need something that can send signals via Z-wave, like the veralite. Going through a rasberry pi would also probably work for you for somewhat cheaper, but somewhat more tinkering and work. Although I wouldn't be surprised if someone else has already done something similar. It mostly depends on what else you want to automate I'd say.
So I guess I'm still not sure what you are actually after. Just a waterproof wifi plug? If so I'm not aware of such a thing.
That being said, what about something like this? https://smile.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22
Or maybe this: https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Outdoor/dp/B0013V8K3O/
Personally, I've not had good luck with GE devices. I have an outdoor switch (this one: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Required/dp/B0013V8K3O ), two wall switches, and one wall dimmer. The outdoor switch (the only one I still have installed) goes offline about once or twice a month for seemingly no reason even though it has direct line of sight to the hub (with the only obstruction being a glass window).
Now, that's me. It could just be my home layout. But I've had much better luck with Homeseer products (WS-100 and WD-100), though I don't know if they make an outdoor appliance switch, like the one you linked.
I use a GE outdoor module in my basement. My Yale lock isn't on it but it works with my other Zwave switches down there. It's ugly so if you need to put it somewhere visible the GE indoor lamp module would probably work as well.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Outdoor/dp/B0013V8K3O
Home assistant will interface with all sorts of products you can look at the Home Assistant website to see all things it interfaces with.
I will also say that this is the most active community and the fastest to incorporate new products. Over the last five months I have been tinkering with HA many new products have been incorporated.
As for the Iris Smart Plug it is a zigbee device that contains a Zwave radio. It will connect to your Zwave network and be an always on device (meaning that it will extend the reach of your mesh network) but you will not be able to control the on and off of the plug. I have two of them and they work great if you use something that has Zigbee radio.
If you are only going to utilize the Z-Stick you will want to use something like one of the following:
[Leviton VRPD3-1LW Vizia RF] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFF4RG4/ref=twister_B01JJKURQS?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1) I have this one for my Christmas tree
GE Lighting Lamp Module with Dimmer Controller
[GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control Outdoor Module] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V8K3O/ref=twister_B017SOTBJG?_encoding=UTF8&amp;th=1) I have a few of these outside
As for the GE Duplex outlet, I have one or two of them but I really like the design and functionality of the Leviton VRR15-1LZ Vizia RF + Split Duplex Receptacle better.
As for light bulbs, I own Hue, Link, Cree, and maybe one more. They are all Zigbee bulbs so I connect them to the Hue hub and let it interface with HA. They work fine for my uses but I really don't care about the colors. When Lifx put its bulbs on sale a few weeks ago I almost bought some of the BR30 but didn't because they don't interface with Home Kit. I really don't need them since the fixtures already have a zwave switch but I thought it would be nice to change colors if I wanted to. Also I have found that some of the Zigbee bulbs loose the connection with the hub if they are turned on and off from a switch. I was hoping the Lifx being wifi would not do that.
Would anyone be interested in some youtube videos explaining my setup and discussing my experiences with products?
GE Outdoor Smart Plug
I think you can do it using mysensors. The store lists a ACS712ELC 30A Current Sensor which you can wire in series to your load. One idea would be to mimic a http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013V8K3O/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1453046080&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX118_SY170_QL70&amp;keywords=smart+receptacle+cord&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31v4qTEZyWL&amp;ref=plSrch or Aeon Labs DSC06106-ZWUS - Z-Wave Smart Energy Switch. You can do this by cutting an extension cable with one side going to the wall receptacle and the other to your load and all the electronics i n the middle. Need an arduino pro mini, radio, 110-5v, the current sensor, and a box to make it look nice.
I highly recommend something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/GE-15153-Heavy-24-Hour-Mechanical/dp/B0035GF8NA/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405141459&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=power+timer
You can get them at walmart or a hardware store for ~$5 (less when Christmas lights go on sale), and they take care of the light for you.
I have the 6 qt crock pot ($35) and a timer I got from a hardware store ($10).
just pick up a cheap timer like this: http://www.amazon.com/15153-24-Hour-Plug-Mechanical-Timer/dp/B0035GF8NA
I get them at Home Depot for $5. It has 30 minute intervals.
I think any old light timer would be fine, they are relatively cheap. I think the only two different styles are ones like thisversus fancier digital style. The main difference with the analog one is that the little dial physically rotates around, so you can end up bonking it or flipping the switches (this dictates the light cycle on/off time). That being said, I have the analog one and it works fine, it's just not as "convenient" if you are prone to accidentally touching it i.e. if you use it in a crowded/busy outlet.
Oh, sorry another thing, make sure it has the right prong style (three versus two). The particular analog one I linked has two prong only (I use it for a lamp).
Programmable light switches are super handly for when you're out of town and want to make it look like you're home, and if you're forgetful about turning off lights.
Keypad deadbolt never worry about getting locked out. If someone is house sitting you can give them the code and then change it when you get home.
Energy saving outlets are great for things like charging cell phones or computers and keeping your power bill lower.
Wifi thermostat. I think Nest is overrated and expensive for what it is.
Electric crockpot-pressure cooker-rice cooker-yogurt maker. This thing does it all, seriously. Pressure cookers are awesome for getting things cooked quickly so you can buy cheaper groceries (dried beans vs. canned). Slow cookers are great for tough pieces of meat, roasts, soups... They're also great in summer as they don't heat up the whole kitchen. It being multi-purpose is a bonus for kitchen space.
Thanks for the sugestion. I will just go ahead and try it this way. so something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Econoswitch-RPLS740B-Programmable-Switch/dp/B004AP92N2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467182862&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=timer+switch+for+lights
alternately, if you have many light bulbs on your porch, this dusk to dawn switch: https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Econoswitch-RPLS740B-Programmable-Switch/dp/B004AP92N2
you could also get an internet-connected smart switch if you plan on building out more of a smart home, but this is great as a standalone.
it's very nice to get home at night with the porch lights already on, and not have to keep adjusting a mechanical timer as the days get longer or shorter.
Thank you so much for the response
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I would prefer that both lights don't come on together. I also don't care for how the switch looks at all, I'm only concerned with function.
I put up 2 standard light fixtures on either side of my garage. I then replaced the actual light switch (I'll see if I can find link) with one that you program date and time. It then turns itself on at dusk, off at dawn. Been going strong for about 8 years.
Edit: Not the exact one I have, but essentially the same thing.
Honeywell Econoswitch RPLS740B 7-Day Solar Time Table Programmable Switch for Lights and Motors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004AP92N2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ld.Eub046W4J1
Honeywell econswitch
Use something like this. Set it and forget it.
First I just had lamps on something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Woods-50007-24-Hour-Digital-Settings/dp/B005WQIDHY/ you probably can find something like this much cheaper.
I ended up installing a switch like this: http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Econoswitch-RPLS740B-Programmable-Switch/dp/B004AP92N2/
Not exactly what you are looking for, but I have this and works great. Always when dark and I use LED bulbs so the electricity wont cost too much.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AP92N2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I recently replaced my porch light switch with one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AP92N2 It turns them on at sunset, off at sunrise, auto adjusts with the day of the year, and self adjusts for daylight savings time.
Depending on your use cases "home automation" doesn't mean you have to tie it into a hub or do something fancy - it simply means automating what you would do manually. I'm extremely happy with my timer so far.
If you literally just want the light off/on at certain times and don't need to control it remotely, get a Honeywell Econoswitch RPLS740B 7-Day Solar Time Table Programmable Switch. No hub required.
This is the switch that I have: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AP92N2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You're interested in a smart switch that's aware of sunset, right? You want a switch to go on at or some time after sunset, and then go out after an interval or at a set time?
Check out this and this
They have internal batteries that keep the clock going during power outages.
I'm off next week. On the docket for this weekend and next week:
I think that's about it.
Edit: We're staining the stairs, not painting them. Also clarify that we painted the walls and link the paint we used.
Edit #2: I threw my back out digging underneath the sink looking for a vase to put some flowers in for mother's day. My week of home improvement activities just turned into a week of me struggling to take a shit.
Unless you need massively heavy duty, these are great:
http://www.amazon.com/Woods-50007-24-Hour-Digital-Settings/dp/B005WQIDHY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457973938&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=digital+plug+in+timer
I use them on 2 aquariums and a basking light for our snake.
https://www.amazon.com/Woods-50007WD-24-Hour-Digital-Polarized/dp/B005WQIDHY?keywords=digital+timer&amp;qid=1537563870&amp;sr=8-13&amp;ref=mp_s_a_1_13
I have a couple of these, once programmed properly I haven’t had a problem. They sell something similar at Home Depot/Lowe’s/Walmart for around 10 dollars for one and it works just as well.
These are the actual ones I have. They are a little wonky to set up but they work well.
Woods 50007WD Indoor 24-Hour Digital Plug-In Timer, 2 Pack, 1 Polarized Outlet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005WQIDHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iD9dBb60SSZ94
Get a timer...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WQIDHY
To answer the bonus question, yes, definitely get a timer. They're inexpensive and make the lighting management very easy. I got this two-pack from Amazon (one for my basking light and one for the UVB tube) and they've worked great for several months now. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WQIDHY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Desk lamps are great for small tanks. Get a cheap plug-in timer and you won't even have to turn it off and on. ☺
Here you go.
EDIT:
I also use one of these to reboot my wifi router once a day in the middle of the night.
There are a lot of schools of thought on keeping various animals, I read up on what differences full spectrum lighting does for pets and for snakes and crabs there seemed to be limited ROI. Crabs do supposedly do better when there is a day/night cycle as well as temperature variation but the later is more expensive to emulate and probably not very important.
A cheap timer like this one set to 12 hours on 12 off is fine but you could research and find out how long days actually are in summer/winter and adjust it if you're super OCD.
Biggest mistakes I see being made are having too small a tank, incorrect/insufficient substrate, lack of salt water (which I'm still not sure they need honestly), not having multiple hides, incorrect temp/humidity, and not having enough spare shells. If you've got those things then the rest is just fluff.
I don't like the analog timers because they make clicky noises. I've also been through A LOT of various timers on Amazon because I own 2 auto cat feeders along with my multitude of reptile lights. I will break down my experience for you:
Enover TS18 Digital Timer -- I needed this for my triple-prong power strip and it worked for a couple months but then started turning the "random" feature on by itself and wouldn't turn off in the evening. Junked.
Westek TE08WHB Timer Strip -- I really like this one and I still use it for a couple of my cages. I like that 4 are timed and 4 are always on. NOTE though that when the power goes out this does NOT keep the time and will reset, which is very annoying.
WenTop Digital Timer -- I used this one for my single cat feeder for awhile, but it eventually stopped working for some reason. I never figured out why but it stopped turning anything on. Junked.
Century Digital Timer -- I bought a second feeder and needed a timer that had 2 outlets. This one has worked well so far, but you may just need a single outlet.
Woods 50006WD Analog Timer -- I still use these when my digital timers break lol. Honestly, they're really reliable, they just make that clicky sound that drives me nuts. But it's a great deal if you're just looking for something that works with no frills.
Nearpow Digital Timer -- My most recent purchase. I've only been using it for a few weeks but has been working fine. It has a bunch of settings, I have no idea what all of them do, I just need it to turn the lights off and on lol.
I picked up these and they seem to work okay, although I would prefer something that had a countdown rather than programing a 24-hour dial. If I were to purchase something again, I would go with something more like this.
Well you say you warm the engine up for 10mins, but that's only the engine, your trans will still be 90% cold (all but little bit of conductive heat from the engine). Do you happen to have a garage? You could get a transmission pan heater (might as well get an oil pan heater too) then you can just set one of those wall timer things, just wire them up so the cords are on the driver's side, and hopefully you have an outlet on the driver's side, then you can just plug them in when you get home and unplug them before you leave. I'd set the timer 2 hours before you leave, and then you could start your truck like 5 minutes before you leave (just so the oil has enough time to go through everything, but the block should be warm anyways, just an extra safety measure i guess). I'd highly recommend doing it.
Heater
Mechanical Timer
Proctor-Silex 33043 4-Quart Slow Cooker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004O07LRC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_62vWub04N0C5D
This is the slow cooker I've used for the years. I warn you that you might want to throw open a window before you cook because after four hours whatever you're cooking is going to permeate the house.
Woods 50006 Indoor 24-Hour Mechanical Outlet Timer, 2-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LYHED0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_I4vWub1FYZVTB
Woods 50006 Indoor 24-Hour Mechanical Outlet Timer, 2-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LYHED0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_RXdGwbFHBWAZP
They sell similar things at Walmart
Timer switch. http://www.amazon.com/Woods-50006-24-Hour-Mechanical-Settings/dp/B006LYHED0/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452954535&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=timer+switch
Here is the mobile version of your link
Are you in the USA? if so I've had pretty good luck with these cheap timers off Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006LYHED0/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499851115&amp;sr=8-10&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=timers+for+electrical+outlets&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=410-DNaFBZL&amp;ref=plSrch
The caveat is that some of them start making a faint clicking/buzzing noise after a while so if you're keeping it in your bedroom i wouldn't recommend it. Also they don't have a ground.
get one of those plugs that lets you set when it turns on and off, something like http://amzn.com/B006LYHED0 .
You might try a normal switch connected to an
Aeon Labs Z-Wave Micro Smart Energy Switch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWAPU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0gD-zbVX154GH
Turns your dumb switch smart :)
There's also a dimmer module:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRI1CEK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PiD-zbWY6WYJM
Are you running a hub? You could use a normal bulb and go this route: http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC18103-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B008VWAPU4
Look for z wave micro switches. They wire in and fit behind the switch. Or you can enlarge the hole and retrofit a 2 gang remodel box.
Either option is similar in work and wire expertise. For the box you will just need a little slack in the wires or to use wire nuts and extend them, also you will need to cut a larger hole in the drywall. If you can handle wiring a light switch diy, then either option is doable.
The other option is smart bulbs. Hue bulbs can be controlled by a smartthings hub directly.
Since you have a metal box it won't work like that. I would probably suggest something like this maybe.
https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC18103-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B008VWAPU4
Maybe you could place it inline somewhere closer to your network. Not sure on the ratings though.
How does your blower fan connect to power, hard wired I assume?
this meter will do it, but you need (some) infrastructure to be able to collect/log the data depending on what you want.
Once you have meter(s) like that you can do cool things with them though.
I think something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC18103-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B008VWAPU4
would work for you. You can keep your existing switches even. This is assuming you have enough room behind the existing switch in the gang box. You'll need a hub like a smart things, but previous comments seem to show you are alright with that.
Personally, I love the idea of the old style edison bulbs and fixtures. This would allow you to do it with no visible changes at all.
One problem I had with smart outlets is that one one of the plugs is controlled by the switch, the other is just on 100% of the time.
In my use case, paranoia over leaving the hair curler plugged in, that down fall was two much. Sure I could see the outlet was off but I had no idea if the device was plugged into the right outlet.
My solution was this little guy
Aeon Labs DSC18103-ZWUS,White,US,AL001 Aeotec Z-Wave Micro Smart Energy Switch, 2nd Edition, White, Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWAPU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fBzqybV7TXXRH
Fits behind the standard outlet and turns the entire thing into a switch.
I'm also thinking this might be a good thing to add to a couple more outlets for Christmas lights
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWAPU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fBzqybV7TXXRH
This will make a standard plug z wave. You can't control each plug individually but should do the trick.
You could look into products utilizing Z-Wave. There's a few modules that can be placed into a box behind switches or above light fixtures, like potentially this one. But you'd still need a Z-Wave controller, something like the SmartThings Hub, perhaps.
EDIT: Here's another Z-Wave wire-in switch. There are even motion sensors like this one and other things that speak Z-Wave.
ive got some of these that work great with existing switches and their faceplates and are about the same cost as whole new switches.
If I were you, I would go with Aeon Labs Z Wave Smart Energy Switch . They are cheap, hides behind regular light switches, and works flawlessly with Abode.
Also I'm guessing something like this would partially solve your problem: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008VWAPU4/
The Relay could link up to two of your switches and the micro switch to the third.
Of course the problem with any of these solutions is that you will only end up with two, physical switches. Whichever switch you do not connect to the relay should be something you don't mind activating primarily through the Relay touchscreen, your phone app, or, better yet, schedules and robots.
That's an easy enough problem to fix, no? I bought a 9-pack of these and put them on the switches that control smart lights:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DTXKOTM
They have tabs on the side that can be removed, so they can either be installed in "impossible to flip without poking a pencil through the hole" or "can be flipped from the side but you can't flip them accidentally".
There are other kinds available, such as those that cover the flat type of switches, larger ones that can cover dimmer sliders and other bulkier things, low profile ones that don't cover the switch but just prevent it from moving, etc.
Personally I live alone, so I just knocked out one of the two tabs on each so that I won't hit them accidentally, but I can still flip them if I need to.
Move the sub and invest in switch covers
Here ya go!
https://www.amazon.com/Option-Switch-Guard-Clear-Toggle/dp/B00DTXKOTM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500206942&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=switch+guard
Switch guards which screw onto the switch plate are available. They are made such that you cannot accidentally flip a switch but must make an effort to do so. Probably a better option than bypassing the switch.
https://www.amazon.com/Option-Switch-Guard-Clear-Toggle/dp/B00DTXKOTM
This will probably be the cheapest option.
take your salary, and the salary of everyone in that room, multiply it by the 5 times you know this is going to happen. I bet it's more than the cost of an electrician for half an hour. If your accounting is totally incompetent, the $3 solution is a switch cover: https://www.amazon.com/Option-Switch-Guards-Clear-Toggle/dp/B00DTXKOTM/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=covered+switch&qid=1555082181&s=gateway&sr=8-11
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This is a business issue 100%. At Joe user's desk is one thing, at a conference room facility, it's stupid to be set up this way. And it's laughable that someone would come to Reddit trying to woe is me my users are idiots when they can't see this.
I use these for Switch guards and they work great:
Dual Option Wall Switch Guards (3 Pack) Clear Toggle Style https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DTXKOTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rqy-AbP3AFFQ6
Otherwise like you said, people always turn the switches off.
Power being off is trickier. I get notices other things are offline, but that could be just my internet and/or that device being dumb.
In case anyone else is looking for similar,it's one of these Shabbat light switch covers.
The smart home finds a new use for what was probably only useful to observant Jews before.
For toggle switches. I just use these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DTXKOTM/
they're relatively cheap, easy to install, not that ugly and you can uninstall them just as easily.
I did this with GE Switches in the wall wired up with no load. I Direct wired my ceiling fans and rewired their light kits with the Aeotec Micro Dimmer 2nd Edition
Then use Smart Lighting in Smartthings to tell the dimmer to turn on/off depending on the on/off status of the GE Switch in the wall. I have 4 ceiling fans setup like this. Works well. Would probably work even better if the GE Switches I used were ZWave +.
This nice thing about this module is it still has a provision for the pull chain. So the switch and the pull chain are functional in my setup.
http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC27103-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B00IRI1CEK/
When it says "in wall", they mean it needs to be in an electrical box.
I hear you. I'm finding that smart outlets may not be the answer to most of what I want to do. I'm thinking I'm going be tucking a few of these in some boxes.
One of these should do the trick. Not a switch, but an in-line module that will connect to your hub. Oh yeah, you're gonna need a hub.
I use Aeon Labs micro dimmer modules on 3/4 way switches: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Wave-Micro-Dimmer-2nd/dp/B00IRI1CEK/ it wires between a 3&4 way circuit and the load. You keep the standard switch hardware and wiring, and just put one of these in the electrical box that feeds the load. It's much cheaper than putting lots of satellite switches on your complex circuits.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRI1CEK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ltxLBbBTYB6D4
They also make 'double' versions of these to control two switches. I wish i'd understood more before converting the house over to GE/Jasco.
https://www.amazon.com/Vision-Z-Wave-Micro-Switch-relay/dp/B00R883YKU
Dimmer versions:
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Wave-Micro-Dimmer-2nd/dp/B00IRI1CEK/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486063509&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=zwave+in+wall
second 2 gang option: https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-Aeotec-DSC-17103/dp/B01DDQS07W/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B01DDQS07W&amp;pd_rd_r=YFHWK6KFSSQT2MNBSMT7&amp;pd_rd_w=ahlIA&amp;pd_rd_wg=Oo1Qn&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=YFHWK6KFSSQT2MNBSMT7
Seriously... don't do this... This is an excellent way to burn down your house/apartment, or electrocute yourself. Yes, commercial products are a little more expensive, but that's because they have to meet actual quality standards and are rigorously tested (assuming you buy something that is UL rated).
Look in to a product like this: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Wave-Micro-Dimmer-2nd/dp/B00IRI1CEK/
That little "UL" in the top right corner means it is certified to not burn your house down (used properly)...
I literally just installed one of these 15 minutes ago. It works great, I can control it via Amazon Echo through my hub, but it maintains the look and feel of the original light switch.
The micro switch just sits inside the gangbox.
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Wave-Micro-Dimmer-2nd/dp/B00IRI1CEK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483133953&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=aeotec+micro+smart+switch
Here are my thoughts:
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That should get you going!
I was going to get a few Lutron plug in switches but I found the bluetooth auto-off fairly reliable. Now that latest steamvr beta allows the entire system to be turned on from the wands and headset, I think that's actually superior to a third party switch setup.
You don't need the pro hub anymore, it works with the regular hub. I don't think the pico remote is individually programmable with HA yet but you could use this lamp dimmer if you just want to turn it on and off.
This one has prime, same thing: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00JJY1QG0/ref=twister_B07RR5V7SN?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I'm just using a plug-in lamp dimmer for mine, but there are several ways to go about it...lamp dimmer, smart bulb, smart switch...
Yes. The Lutron dimmer is a physical switch that controls the device wired to it just like a normal non-smart switch.
These are the plug in dimmers: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-PKG1P-WH-Assistant/dp/B00JJY1QG0
You can pair them with wireless remotes to control lamps.
Lutron has a lamp outlet dimmer switch but you'll need to get the hub as well. There's a home assistant component which would then allow you to feed in the sunrise schedule.
I'm doubtful that a standalone dimmer like you're describing exists.
Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Lamp Dimmer and Remote Kit, P-PKG1P-WH, White, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJY1QG0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q7GPCbYBJ7WJ8
If you don't need the pedestals for the pico remotes, I think you're better off buying these 2 bundles separate.
Bundle
Extra Switch & Pico
Yes. Here’s more info: Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Dimmer Switch Starter Kit, P-BDG-PKG1W, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_doqnDbD8YH17Y
Nice! FYI it’s $84 normally on amazon. smile.amazon.com
Thank you so much for your advice. Would you guess that this works with the LED lights I have in the link in the OP? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=psdc_507840_t1_B00XPW67ZM#
This will do exactly what you want.
LUTRON P-BDG-PKG1W Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Starter Kit: 1 Smart Bridge, 1 In-Wall Smart Dimmer with Wallplate and 1 Pico Remote, Works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_s-dvzb6XKJW7B
The picture you have there shows a fixture versus a standard consumer replaceable bulb. It also shows a light that is hardwired into the wall, I am assuming you turn this light on and off using a switch. So versus the hue model of replacing the bulb, you wire in a new switch.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-BDG-PKG1W-Assistant/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=lutron+caseta+hub&qid=1569721998&sr=8-2
It requires very basic home DIY skills namely:
I'm not too familiar with 0-10v systems so I read up a bit. It appears that you do need a low voltage traveler wire to feed all the way to the switch. I don't believe the one I linked will work as your fixtures are still designed to work on 120vAC and that PWM dimmer is low voltage DC only.
Is this in your home or a garage i.e. - does it need to be aesthetically pleasing? My shop lights are simply plugged in to a standard two outlet receptacle. You could cut in a 4 outlet receptacle and wire one of the dimmer switches next to the main outlet at the beginning of the circuit. The switch on the wall would then control the power going to that switch, but you'd be able to set the level of brightness and then not touch it.
Another option (and I don't know if this is feasible or even code compliant) is to use the neutral wire as the control wire. The specs on that Lutron state that no neutral wire is required for operation. Just so long as you labeled it properly (similar to how the neutral can be used as load in certain situations) I don't see why you couldn't run it from your lights to the switch as the 10v control wire. I only know enough about this to be dangerous though so I'm sure someone will downvote or correct as necessary. Please don't do this without confirmation from the manufacturer/electrician.
Edit: I think this controller from Lutron might be just the ticket. Per the manual you can control it with any number of their Pico switches and it does all of the dimming wirelessly via RF. You can also connect it to a wall switch, a handheld switch, etc., and even control it via the Amazon Echo if you want. Just did a little extra reading though and apparently you need their hub to control the wireless connection. Once you have that, though, you can add any number of switches (I think to an extent) to any number of circuits and even integrate your lights with Smartthings, Vera, HomeSeer, or one of the supported automation hubs. Granted, you're looking at $100 for the hub/switch starter kit and another $80 for the 0-10v, but your'e also eliminating the hassle of wiring (aside from wiring the control wire from the ballast to the Lutron controller) and setting yourself up for automation, if that's something you're into. We have our under cabinet lights and a couple other things hooked to a SmartThings hub and the Echo and it's pretty convenient.
If you don't mind the using a dimmer instead of the a switch, you can find the dimmer/hub bundle for not that much more.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-P-BDG-PKG1W-In-Wall-Dimmer-Kit-w-Smart-Bridge-White-NEW/323233088576?epid=0&amp;hash=item4b42318440:g:tE0AAOSwreVZzNrL
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-Starter-P-BDG-PKG1W/dp/B00MXCRAX8
This one doesn't require a neutral: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PD-5WS-DV-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Lighting/dp/B00NO7Z80S
I believe this one is an on/off switch that does not require a neutral.
Just be sure whatever switch you use is not a dimmer. A dimmer is not supposed to be attached to a fan. It can burn out your fan motor or worse, start a fire. Here's the one I used for my fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NO7Z80S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Jv3-BbYZZCWW0
Then I used a regular caseta dimmer to control only the light portion. So now I have a 2 gang box, but I can control both individually. Unfortunately that caseta switch is insanely expensive. I was able to get it for $61 a few months ago. You might have better luck googling that model and buying it from a specialty electrical supply store.
As far as I am aware the dimmers will work weather you have a neutral or not. As for the non dimmer you need a specific model that doesn't need neutral. The PD-5WS-DV switch.
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These are it if I'm not mistaken, expensive but Lutron Caseta is rock solid in my experience
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NO7Z80S/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=A1GAF1H4JQJZXC&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGOHM/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468330935&amp;sr=sr-1&amp;keywords=ge+zwave
This is the switch I use. They also have paddle switches and dimmers.
I'm not fully following what you are asking for.
You want a smart switch with no dimming capability.
But are you saying you want it to only control one light, or two?
Is this a for a three way switch?
If I have put it together properly, you are just looking for a regular ordinary on/off single pole light switch with no dimming capability?
like this?: switch
I have GE switches in my house... and like you I switched out everything that kinda needs to be smart (I left bathrooms alone, visitors don't want a motion sensor in the bathroom :-)).GE does make a toggle style, though if you want my personal opinion i think they are kind of ugly. If you are going to replace almost everything in your house just go with the paddle style.
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why would you need two hubs? what are you planning on using as a hub?
OKay, so for each 3-way, I'd need something like one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGOHM/ref=asc_df_B006LQFHN25032304/
and one of these?:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGYY0/
(And the hub of course)
Thanks for the response BreakfastBeerz. A quick search there makes it seem like this device may work:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-45605-Z-Wave-Technology-Receptacle/dp/B00PYMGOHM/
But since our one light has three separate switches in the room I'm hesitant to move forward with this plan due to the expense and complexity that may be involved.
> See, I didn't even know that was a thing. Glad I opened this thread already. So much to research.
>
> Thanks.
No prob man, and they really do work amazingly. Here's an amazon link for the z-wave plus outlets:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07361JZ2H/
Here's the link for the switches and add-on switches. They come in either paddle or toggle style, and in a couple colors. You can also get switches that support dimming if that's your thing.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYMGOHM/
If it's a 3-way, the functionality of the add-on will match that of the other switch. So if it's a dimmer on the main side, the add-on has that as well.
I appreciate your input!
Using a smartphone or tablet would be a sufficient alternative in many circumstances. The Phillips Hue lights work very well with the associated smartphone app. Phillips also makes a Dimmer Switch and a Tap Switch for use cases when having access to a phone or tablet is not practical. The Phillips hardware switches might be preferable over a phone/tablet because you only have to press a single button (versus unlocking a phone, opening the correct application, and then pressing a button) and a phone/tablet has much greater needs in terms of electricity. The Phillips Dimmer Switch operates on a replaceable watch battery. The Phillips Tap Switch doesn't even require a battery at all! (It uses the mechanical energy generated by the physical action of pressing the button to power itself.)
I wonder if either the Dimmer Switch or Tap Switch from Phillips could be hacked/re-purposed to send command to Google Home?
I believe this is what you're looking for - https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Hue-Dimmer-Installation-Free-Exclusive/dp/B0167Z0P3I
Sure thing! You only need to buy one thing, a Hue starter set. I would also recommend the dimmer switch so you can operate the lights easily without using the app. Then you just download the Hue app, follow the directions and get started. I personally suggest the old Hue app over the new one. I think it's this one, but I'm not 100% sure. The reason why the old app is better is because you can set the fade duration to any whole minute level. The new app does it only in increments of 5 minutes. While the new app might look snazzier, it just didn't do what I needed. And that's it! Just play around with different schedules.
My setup is two lights, one on each nightstand. They fade up to full brightness at 6:30, automatically turn off at 8. Then they automatically turn on at 8PM and fade down over 10 minutes starting at 9:20. It's my cue that bedtime is coming. I'm basically creating my own night-day cycle.
Thats what I'm trying to get away from, more hubs. Half wish I went with a more expansive system like Insteon.
Reading the reviews on Amazon, sounds like only the older model works directly with the Hue hub, is that what you have?
Sure, sure.. Look at these though. You can place them anywhere.. and you can tap it 5 times for different "scenes"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0167Z0P3I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
SYLVANIA SMART+ ZigBee Indoor Smart Plug.
I was able to add them to my system through the native Hue app, using the 6-character serial number printed on the switch, and they work perfectly.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Weather-Resistant-SmartThings-14284/dp/B06W9NWFM3/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536632505&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=ge+smart+outlet+outdoor&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51lM9a2N%2B1L&amp;ref=plSrch
To close the loop here, I did end up buying https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9NWFM3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dt2.Bb22CPRK7 and it was super easy to setup and seems to be working fine. Thanks for all the advice and debate
I have the one below and used it for holiday lights last year. No issues what so ever.
https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Weather-Resistant-SmartThings-14284/dp/B06W9NWFM3
I also have about 12-15 of the hard wired switches in my house and they all work great.
I have a very similar setup (just installed in the past week). The only difference is I'm using an iPad for a hub and voice control instead of Google Home.
If you want to use Homekit on your phone keep in mind that wemo switches are not homekit compatible and you'd have to run a Homebridge server (very easy if you have a computer that's always home/on).
One thing that I didn't really think about was guests coming over and flipping the dumb switches all over the place, and making all of your hue bulbs unresponsive. I installed two of these to prevent that, as well as a Hue Dimmer Switch for the living room to control a floor lamp and ceiling lamp simultaneously.
Just get yourself something like This
It's cheap, it's programmable, it just sits on the outlet.
There are mechanical options as well, just search for "120V countdown outlet timer". There's no need to get all fancy and wire something up.
As for the on/off switch, a photo would help, and you'd do well to search http://digikey.com
this one looks quite interesting. I'm making the assumption that after installing this, I could configure one button to open 1 garage, and another to open the 2nd? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BKWG9XS/ref=psdc_7459508011_t2_B00GL6B4GG
I use https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-WA00Z-1-Z-Wave-Scene-Controller-Switch/dp/B01BKWG9XS
$40 tho
The Linear/GoControl WA00Z-1 might work for you. Just program it to associate with the Z-Wave bulb. Looks like it's available in a bunch of places.
Amazon
HomeSeer
Jet.com
> but you don't cover them with Z-wave buttons, you cover them with a regular combination light switch
I meant something like this to go over the actual switch. Then I leave the real light switches on at all times, and use the z-wave buttons or Home Assistant to control the relay.
Good point on room in the box, too. I'll definitely need to check that out before I buy it
29g tank standard dimensions. I use this timer
Timer Outlet, Nearpow Multifunctional Infinite Cycle Programmable Plug-in Digital Timer Switch With 3-prong Outlet for Appliances, Energy-saving Timer, 15A/1800W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G6O28NA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vXnGAbJCB2WHM
I got a bunch of LED lights from ikea and I have the wireless controller for them - I don't see why you couldn't hook them up to some sort of timer like this that plugs into the wall.
Can you provide a link to the product on Amazon? I don't see any Sylvania smart wall plugs in the "simple setup" list.
edit: nevermind, I see it now, I'm just blind. That should definitely work with Echo Plus.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01M6UM8QD/
Thank you for the detailed response. For me, I will likely be using just basic white LEDS, not RGB, so color space isn't a factor in this particular project (just wanting better lighting in my garage).
I was planning on using these modular LED enclosures attached to the ceiling, and then I wanted to control their on/off capabilities with something compatible with the Hue app. For that I think the Gledopto Dimmer Switch might be able to work, I'd need to adapt it somehow from the three prong power outlet that's included in the enclosures.
Ideally I was hoping to find something like this smart outlet, but from the recent reviews it seems that it's not compatible with Hue. I have yet to find one that explicitly states that it is verified Hue compatible. This would be nice because then I wouldn't have to worry about rewiring like I will with the Gledopto dimmer.
It don't know much about the flickering, I will have to research that some more.
Again, thank you for the response, if I ever want to do more Hue projects with proper RGB lights, I will keep your advice about color protocols in mind.
Only if that light is 12/24V or you then hook up a relay to switch 110V. There's the implication that this works for switching: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6UM8QD/ref=asc_df_B01M6UM8QD5413698/
Checking Amazon reviews on some devices however, there are people complaining about Wink compatibility such as with the Sylvania outlets and motion sensors.
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But it's also entirely possible it is user error.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXPGXQ1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews
https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-ZigBee-Smart-SmartThings-Assistant/product-reviews/B01M6UM8QD/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_hist_1?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&reviewerType=all_reviews#reviews-filter-bar
I use this one, it's super simple and easy to use... http://www.amazon.com/GE-45603-Technology-Fluorescent-Appliance/dp/B0013V58HU
It depends on your desires. If you want more phones now I have a feeling this is going to be the best option. If you are willing to wait the price may lower again. One thing I recommend if you don't already have one is a outlet timer. People say LG devices (LG Fuel mostly) have battery bloating issues more than other devices.
Outlet timers allow you to set the hours a device charges and doesn't charge. So you may say charge for 3 hours stop for 3 and repeat the remainder of the day. The one I linked is a two pack (Cheapest I could find) for $9. At Walmart they are $5-ish for one outlet timer.
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LYHED0
You can do this with home automation stuff. You'd need a Z-Wave or Zigbee home controller and then one of these.
You may also want to try the lutron dimmer plug you could set different light levels different periods of the day: 11pm-7am 40%; 7am-10:59 100% etc. you can set two homekit automations for when motion detected and when not detected (turn off) for each time period. I’ve found the hue motion sensor to be very responsive in this scenario, make sure firmware is updated.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-PKG1P-WH-Assistant/dp/B00JJY1QG0 (needs hub and it’s worth it)
Thanks .. its really expensive lol
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PD-5WS-DV-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Lighting/dp/B00NO7Z80S
But if there are no other options, looks like im going with this. I'm about to buy the Lutron Caseta $99 kit (with the hub) -- but im still making sure its the right purchase and lutron hub can be integrated with ST hub.
You can replace the switch on the right with this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGOHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_78CDybP8MXER9
Don't recommend a non-Z-wave plus item, there's zero reason why you'd ever want to save a buck or two and gimp your network with a non-plus. Sure, it's fine if you already own it, but if you are getting something new, always go with the Z-wave plus model: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Weather-Resistant-Required-Works-SmartThings-14284/dp/B06W9NWFM3