(Part 2) Best electrical testers according to redditors

It's an antiquated bit of terminology, stemming from the fact that this book is over 30 years old.

Any digital multimeter you buy today will be high-impedance. Need a suggestion? An Extech MN35 is an excellent entry-level multimeter.

Yep. And honestly everything else is just about as simple as hooking up the ceiling fan. Two wires and an earth ground. Just for future reference, they sell these relatively cheap non-contact voltage detectors that are really good for people who want to do their own electrical work. These are better than a meter for determining power on/off because they're so simple to use. You just hold it next to the wire and press the button, and it will tell you if there's power or not. The best method is to check it with the break on and confirm power is present, then flip the breaker and confirm it's not. Then check every other wire in the box you're working in, and you'll have some confidence that all circuits involved have been turned off.

I'm an electrical engineer in an industrial environment, and we require all of our electricians to carry and use these, even though they all know how to use meters very well, just because they're so fool proof. There's no chance of picking the wrong setting, or not having a lead connected properly.

> therefore it will not allow the receiver to connect

Malarkey. They don't care where you have the box in your house.

> $50 to send a tech to your house which is a total scam

I'm all about shitting on atat, but your problem was self inflicted. You wanted to move the box. You can't figure out how to switch rooms. You need to pay $50 duckets.

The work around is learn how to trace wires yourself and plug them in to the correct port on the splitter. I recommend this one or this one.

And if you find no GFCI breakers, (a "test" button on the breaker is a good indication that it is GFCI or Arc-Fault protection, the fine-print on the breaker label will indicate which), there may be an "upstream" GFCI outlet protecting kitchen and outdoor circuits. In a recent house, for Kitchen it would need to be in kitchen/pantry/dining room, and hopefully visible -- rather than behind a stove or refrigerator...

Easiest way to check is with a GFCI outlet tester, but then you still need to find the GFCI face with the reset button in order to get power back on the circuit.

In newish houses with the main breaker panel in the garage, it is not un-common to have a GFCI outlet in the garage that is the protection for some outdoor or crawlspace outlets.

lets clear some basic things up first.

What you are experiencing is an Amperage overload of the particular circuit which the AC units are drawing power from. first thing you should do is open your breaker panel and find out what the AMPERAGE of each circuit breaker is. In older buildings 15A is a typical circuit rating.

Next find the Electrical specifications on your AC units, usually a sticker on the side of the unit. the Amperage rating will tell you how much power the unit draws while its operating. A small window unit(5000 BTU) typically will draw about 5 Amps.

Next you have to determine which outlets correspond to the breakers in your panel, there are a couple ways to do this, but a (https://www.amazon.com/Extech-CB10-Circuit-Breaker-Finder/dp/B0014FNWJG/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1497371291&sr=1-5&keywords=circuit+breaker+finder)[circuit finder] is the safest for someone who lacks electrical knowledge. I would suggest labeling your outlets and breakers accordingly with a label maker.

once you figure out which breakers correspond to your apartments outlets you can do some simple math to determine where to plug your AC units in. For example; If your refrigerator and toaster oven are plugged into outlets fed from breaker #2 you could be running close to 12 amps on that breaker if you add 5 more to that you will exceed the breakers resistance when all 3 are running. you will need to plug the AC into a different outlet that is fed from breaker #1 or #3.

some things to note when planning your electrical appliances. High Amperage appliances are most used in the kitchen, Microwave ovens, toasters, refrigerators, dishwashers, electric kettles, electric stoves, so its best to avoid adding an AC unit to kitchen outlets.

This is your first step. If you have more pairs of wires than speakers, you can purchase a wire tracer that may allow you to follow where the speakers run behind the wall. It’s not guaranteed but I’ve had success with this:


Sperry Instruments ET64220 Wire Tracker Wire Tracer, Audio / Video Installers Must-Have, for Coax, CAT 5, Speaker & Phone, Adapter plugs: RJ-45, RJ-11, Coax & More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00279JLBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZmxADbBFR0BF1

Fluke 117
I have this one and love it.

Assuming you're in the US:


Check your outlet that you have the computer plugged into. It does sound like an open ground like others are saying.

http://www.amazon.com/Amprobe-ST-102B-Socket-Tester-GFCI/dp/B008E07HM2

I'm linking this one even though others are cheaper because it has a button to test GFCI. You should check in your bathrooms, outside, etc every few years to make sure they detect and trigger properly. It could save your life.

OP Please do not test this outlet this way. OP stated that the outlet works sometimes and does not other times. Sounds like a short and would not want to risk the short presenting itself at the wrong time and having OP try to work on a live circuit thinking it was off.

https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-STK001-Non-Contact-Receptacle/dp/B002JGQAQ6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1541862977&sr=8-4&keywords=line+voltage+tester

I would recommend using this combanation of tools to be safe when working on electrical devices. The one that is not a wall plug can be used to quickly tell if a wire is hot. Hold the button down, touch it to the wire and it will beep if its hot.

In this particular case DO NOT rely soley on if power is coming through items plugged into the switch, as this appears to be a problem.

Have the electrician install one of these inline with the charger:

http://www.amazon.com/Electric-Meter-100A-Volt-3-Wire/dp/B00GMZRXE8/

I put one in my garage as I was curious and wanted to seperate out my charging from the rest of my electric bill. 4613 kWHr since April 2, 2015

As others have stated that's an equipment ground plug so it shouldn't be any problem but to be safe when removing any broken cord prongs from an outlet.

1. Turn off the power. Use a handy plugin or induction tester to ensure the power is off.plug in tester induction tester
   
   
2. keep both feet squarely on the ground and wear rubber soles. Do not take a knee or touch the ground with any other part of your body. Do not lean against the wall in any way. Do not touch any exposed metal surfaces, counter tops or sinks.
   
   
3. tuck one hand behind your back and use the other hand to pull out the object with a pair of pliers.
   
   When in doubt hire a professional. Safety first.

Welp start with the absolute basics. Check the fuses for the head lights. Then check the bulbs. If both of those are ok. Then I'd use a multimeter to check for power to the bulb in the connector when the headlight switch is pulled. If no power at connection. You need to go under the dash and check for power to the switch. Power to the switch good? Then switch is bad. There could still be wiring to the headlights that's been damaged. However that's pretty rare for the age of our cars.

The end.

Multimeter that's good and inexpensive.
https://www.amazon.com/Crenova-Auto-Ranging-Multimeter-Measuring-Backlight/dp/B00KXX2OYY

How to use a multimeter.
https://www.amazon.com/Crenova-Auto-Ranging-Multimeter-Measuring-Backlight/dp/B00KXX2OYY

https://youtu.be/TdUK6RPdIrA

Curse my American imperial measurement system and it's ease of use in puns! I should have stuck with Si units, certainly no one could misunderstand meter lead

• Exterior solar lights (there are many equivalents on Amazon with different shapes and options)
  
• Multimeter for testing connections before hooking them up, finding actual volts and polarity, etc.
  
• A bug net for my awning. Haven't tried it yet.
  
• Head lamps for looking around outside at night, or for keeping visible light very low
  
• A splatter guard. Bob uses this on his stove to heat his van; a stove can be set lower than a Buddy Heater, but you have to take extra precautions.
  
• A propane torch for starting campfires
  

Light fixtures are very easy to replace. There's a risk of electric shock, but that's easy to avoid. First turn on the light, then go and switch breakers off and on until the light turns off, helps to have a 2nd person to yell when it does. Sometimes the breakers are labeled, but that's like winning the lottery. Pick up one of these guys to quickly verify that the wires aren't going to shock you.

get a circuit breaker finder

just insert the plug into the outlet you're interested in, go to the fuse box, and then wave the wand at the circuit panel. it'll beep when you're pointing at the breaker that matches the outlet. it's a time saver!

Use a furman power conditioner,

And get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00170KUPC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rSk-ybESFZZE0

Has he applied for any jobs yet? I was given one of those leather pads with paper inside and a holder for resumes (something like this) except it was from my undergrad university with their emblem. Definitely gives you some confidence for interviews and recruiting sessions. Also you can get him some nice resume paper to go with it. That lasted me for years.

I also enjoyed having one or two of these demotivational posters in my room. Depends on his humor and if he has barren walls like I did.

If you know more details about which raspberry pi he has, you could get some shield extensions. These are boards that expand its capabilities. There are also newer boards with better specs. Also with two boards you can of course make them talk to each other ;)

Depends on his area of interest and your budget, but you could get him some kind of [introductory FPGA kit] (http://store.digilentinc.com/fpga-programmable-logic/) or DE0-Nano.

Tools... so many tools he might be interested in. USB logic analyzers are so cheap these days and go well with hobby boards. Again not sure your budget, so you can go all sorts of ranges here (Open Workbench Logic Sniffer or scanaplus or Saleae Logic 8 or a china clone of Saleae Logic 8). Saleae or the knockoff I think are the better options for the software compatibility. He may be in need of a soldering iron or a multimeter.

Something else unique, you could get him a "gift card" (they don't really sell them) or an IOU to a PCB printing service. Ask him to design his own board and you'll pay $X of the service. You'll want to make sure he knows the price structure on the website because they charge per square inch and it depends on his design how many layers he may need. He makes the schematic and they will print some circuit boards for him. They won't mount the parts, just do the schematic and he would have to hand solder the components.

If he likes old videogames you could get him some old school USB controllers and tell him to install lakka on his rasberry pi, or just get him a new Raspberry Pi3 to dedicate it as an old-school console emulator. It is quite impressive how many consoles they have emulated.

And back to more tools... more micro screwdriver bits than you would actually need. You can get him a starter pack of resistors, capacitors, and other assorted electronics sparkfun. There are also so many buttons, switches, LED screen displays, etc. that he probably wouldn't want to buy on his own. Maybe you could get a container with an assortment of circuit components (resistors, capacitors, transistors, and other sensors). Careful! This can add up real quick. All types of sensors exist... ultrasonic rangefinder, stress, photocell, temperature, etc. etc. endless!.

Morning folks. Berc here with your "I want to mech up as cheaply as humanly possible!" equipment list.

The nemesis mechanical mod! $25 dollars

Sony 30amp VTC4's! You can find these cheaper on illumination supply but they run out really fucking quick

The classic Igo-W! A three post rebuilding atomizer!

The fantastic Nitecore i2 intellicharger

A cheap multi-meter

Some kanthal wire, preferably in the 32g range for beginners

Some organic cotton, preferably in cotton ball form

MOTHAFUCKIN BATTERY SAFETY!

Read up and learn on the sub about building practices and youlle be good to go! Buy some killer juice and vape until your ventricles explode!

This is the tool

https://www.amazon.com/Crenova-Auto-Ranging-Multimeter-Measuring-Backlight/dp/B00KXX2OYY

How to use it

https://www.boatus.com/magazine/2016/december/electrical-troubleshooting-using-a-multimeter.asp

If you’re not comfortable with electricity, here’s a simple analogy

https://www.windows2universe.org/physical_science/physics/electricity/circuit_analogy_water_pipes.html

Eh, for the home use you're probably just as well off with any ole category II chinese meter for 20 bucks.

http://smile.amazon.com/Extech-MN35-Digital-Mini-MultiMeter/dp/B0012VWR20/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1414680367&sr=8-4&keywords=extech

I have this one. Not sure if your radioshack one costs any more than that or not. But that's what I recommend for an entry level meter. Flukes are nicer (A lot nicer), but I've never found anything that wasn't a fluke any better than this one... And since I don't work with my meter professionally I can't justify buying myself a fluke.

If you want to do it yourself, you'll need a cable explorer. You'll attach the lights to your internal coaxial outlets, and then go back outside to hook up to each wire, and see which color lights up. Be sure to write down where you put which color so you can label the appropriate wires to where they go. You can use zip tie labels for this.

Now, you know where everything goes, so you'll be able to either hook up every lead to a different source, and troubleshoot your connection if you need to. If you want to run an aerial system, you're going to need a distribution amplifier to overcome the loss of having 8 splits. Every coax port in the house will work with either cable, or OTA, or satellite service.

If subscribing to cable television, have the technician do the connection of the cable feed to the system, You are free to mess with the wiring of your house all you wish, but are not authorized to alter or tamper with cable company owned lines or equipment. Have the technician do that.

Something like this could help if you can't physically find the cable, though you'd be poking the probe around lots of random places

the buy it for life crowd will always argue for superior quality and buying a good tool. However another random redditor once summarized a different pragmatic:
"Buy a cheap tool, if it does the job you win. If you use it enough to break it you now are justified on buying the good version that might last you a lifetime."
I love harbor freight for economy cheap hand tools.

My exception is buy a good drill/driver. My current house might be close to 50% held together by work from my Milwaukee at this point.

Other tools no one mentioned that will come in handy: Outlet tester/live circuit detector, A stud finder, a set of allen wrenches.

Here is such on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/TekPower-TP4000ZC-RS232-Interfaced-Ranging-Multimeter/dp/B000OPDFLM

The data it spits out to RS232 (though an optoisolator) is a bitstream of its display drivers and needs decoding at the host end, but there are programs for that for at least Windows and Linux. Pulling together an Arduino Uno program to do that and pass on decoded text as serial-over-USB to the host is on my to-do list; the needed decoding information is posted at: https://sigrok.org/w/index.php?title=Multimeter_ICs&oldid=11625

1. Use lightbulb to figure out the Line (would normally be black) connection, like /u/elfa82 said
   
   
2. Turn on some lights/appliances that are on the same circuit (back to your junction box). This will create a few volts of potential between the line and ground. Try to get a good bit of draw, it will generate more voltage.
   
   
3. Check for this couple volts using a flashlight bulb (best), or LED (might get damaged) connected between one of the wires you identified as Neutral/Ground to a known ground connection (metal pipes should be grounded).
   
   One of the wires will generate a faint glow, one will not. The one that does not is ground (should be bare/green) and the other neutral (should be white).
   
   BE CAREFUL! After you figure out the hot wire, secure it so it will not bite you during subsequent testing. Then mark the wires REALLY WELL so the next poor person in there won't have to repeat your work.
   
   
   Also, the correct answer is get a multimeter!

Craftsman 34-82141 Digital Multimeter with 8 Functions and 20 Ranges https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X5TSUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hyyDybCDCEG49

Under $20. Does everything you need it to. I install elevators. My old mechanic had this meter as a backup. It got the job done.

GFCI will work just fine. There may be some confusion on your part about the wording as a GFCI actually measures the current on the hot conductor and returning on the neutral conductor. If there is more than a 5ma (milli-amp) difference between those amounts, the GFCI trips for a personnel protection GFCI. Equipment protection GFCI trips when the difference is 30ma.

GFCI protection was considered an acceptable form of protection for ungrounded circuits in past editions of the NEC (National Electric Code), probably still is, but I can't be arsed to look up the code reference right now.

Edit:
> Is there something I can measure with my voltmeter to check if the inverter-powered circuit is compatible?

You can purchase a cheap GFCI trip tester at any hardware store or you can buy a much more expensive tester to verify that the GFCI trips within the correct range for milliamps and milliseconds.

Many years back I bought a cheapo Tekpower TP4000ZC when it was still in production and cheaper than you can get it now. It has Youtube reviews such as this overview and this RS232 datalogging software overview. (It needs an RS232-to-USB adapter, which are very cheap.) I didn't use the supplied software for datalogging myself, but my own Python code — I see that there's now a Python library for it on Github.

It still works fine, but these days I'd try to find its USB equivalent. Beware that you do get what you pay for. E.g. a cheap USB multimeter, the like this one which has reviews that describe the wrong multimeter and is a rebadged Tekpower TP8236. You can bet that the cheapest meters have software that's too old to run on Windows 10, and require a bit of ingenuity to set up something that works, as this sort of thing did in the past.

while looking for a multimeter which offers RS232, i've found a low-cost option which is designed in a way that works similarly to what you've described.

product page ~$30 shipped

product review page with the details.

Greetings all!

My main suggestion to anyone wanting to get into vaping it is to skip the ego-starter kits, MVP2 (cheapish Vv or Vw boxes), non-rebuildable tanks (Protanks, Nautilus) and just drive right into the mechanical mod / box mod world. I say this because the vaping experience is so much better with rebuildables. I went with the all of the above, and I personally wished that someone would’ve told me to just dive right in, because all that stuff is sitting around not being used. The people that I’ve talked to are typically hesitant to do so because of the coil building, but there are so many YouTube tutorials, suggestions and information on /r/RBA and /r/electronic_cigarette that it’s much easier than it seems. Anyway, if I were to start all over again, these are the things which I’d buy.

Must Haves
These are the things which I consider essential to starting off the on the right foot. I’ve purchased a lot of things, and these are the things which I suggest to my friends. Most of the links are from Amazon, because it’s what I’ve primarily used.

Battery - Sony VTC5
http://www.eciggity.com/2-pc-sony-18650vtc5-2600mah-30a-battery/

These are pretty much the standard when it comes to “safe” batteries. They’re affordable, good amp limit and have been recommended many times. If you purchase from the link above, they also give you a plastic carrying case!

Charger - Nitecore i2 or Nitecore i4
http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-IntelliCharger-i4-Battery-Charger/dp/B005UAI372/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404287334&sr=8-1&keywords=nitecore

Affordable, reliable and these won’t “overcharge” your batteries. The difference between the i2 and i4 is the amount of batteries they can charge at a single time. They also have a new fancier one out, called the Digicharger D2 and Digicharger D4. Those are nice because it has a LCD panel that displays a lot more information than the i2 and i4. I personally use an just an i2.

Mechanical Mod - Stingray
http://www.vaperoyalty.com/hcigar-stingray-mod-stainless-steel/

Now, 90% of what is suggested for an actual mechanical mod is going to be of personal taste. The Stingray is the “older brother” of the Nemesis. This is what I purchased when I first started out vaping. The unit is very easy to break apart, clean, has a locking ring, has a floating 510 connection and venting holes in case of a battery leak. Almost everyone I know has a Stingray.

Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - Magma by Infinite
http://101vape.com/rebuildable-atomizers-tanks/309-magma-atomizer-clone-by-infinite.html

One of the best purchases I’ve made. The juice wells are very deep compared to everything else on the market (that doesn’t have a tank system). Threads are nice, easy to build on, post holes are large and the air-flow is easy to manipulate. You can run this on a single coil or a dual coil. Blows almost all the other RDAs I have out of the water. This is my main RDA.

Organic Cotton - Maxim Hygiene Products Organic Cotton Balls
http://www.amazon.com/Organic-Cotton-Balls-Triple-count/dp/B00E8T2X36/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288337&sr=8-3&keywords=organic+cotton

I suggest using un-bleached, organic cotton. Some people take it one step further by washing them, I think thats taking it a bit far and I don’t do it. You can pick them up from any convenience store or supermarket (CVS, Walgreens, Target, Whole Foods), a 100 count will last you AGES.

Kanthal - AWG A1 26 Gauge
http://www.amazon.com/Kanthal-Gauge-100ft-0-40386-Resistance/dp/B00HALND7Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288659&sr=8-1&keywords=kanthal+26

I like to use 26g kanthal wire for my dual coil builds. 26g is a bit thicker than what a lot of people suggest (28g), but for me, because it’s thicker, it’s easier to work with.

Screwdrivers - Stanley 6 Piece Screwdriver set
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009OYGV/ref=oh_details_o05_s01_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The screwdrivers which come with your RDAs are short, small and crappy. I like these screw drivers because they come in a variety of sizes and you do not need to mess with a drill-bit. What I really like about these, is at the end of the drill bit is a small little ledge (can’t think of a better word), where you can push your coil and scrunch it up a bit.

Ohm meter / Multimeter - Any generic ohm reader or Innova 3300
http://101vape.com/meters/170-ohms-meter.html

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O1X65A/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can use a multimeter to do basically the same thing as an ohm reader. The multimeter has an added benefit of being able to read the volts are your battery as well. I have both, but I prefer to use a “regular” ohm reader. This video below can teach you how to use a multimeter for that purpose.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgXAmPBAO5g&index=2&list=LLU7AM2JUxXCrj4TSCDQDffw

Optional items
Things that I’ve purchased that you can probably substitute with something in your house. They’re nice to have, most people have these, but I decided to link these anyway, because I didn’t have some stuff (my scissors were too large).

Scissors - Generic surgical scissors
http://www.amazon.com/Amercian-Diagnostic-Corporation-3425-Stainless/dp/B000GHIUR2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289491&sr=8-5&keywords=surgical+scissors

To cut your cotton. Small, sharp and gets the job done.

Tweezers - Ceramic tweezers
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007588/1655800-heat-resistant-stainless-steel-tweezers-for-e

Allows you to hold your coil together and torch them without heating up the tweezers.

Wire cutters - Hakko CHP-170
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For cutting your kanthal off that spool!

Atomizer holder - Plano 23630-01
http://www.amazon.com/Plano-23630-01-Stowaway-Adjustable-Dividers/dp/B000E3FKVC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289861&sr=8-4&keywords=plano

You’re gonna buy a bunch of atomizers. Everyone buys a bunch. You’re not going to be able to help yourself. I use this plastic case to keep everything neat and separated.

Building deck - Tenderfoot Stands
https://www.facebook.com/tenderfoot.stands?fref=ts

You don’t need this. But it makes building RDAs easier. You can also place your juice filled RDAs on here.

Torch - Mini Jet Flame 503
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007A9YSPW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This will help you get those coils nice and tight, without having to fire off your mechanical mod.

Battery Case - Bluecell
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q6PJO8/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you don’t buy the batteries from the link above, you’re gonna want a battery case. Do not keep your batteries loose in your pocket or floating around your bag. They can come in contact with something metal and potentially damage the battery.

Well that's not strictly true. GFCI outlets can be wired onto a circuit without protecting anything else. They have two sets of connections, one for the live wires and one for downstream stuff. If a GFCI outlet is wired up like a normal outlet, it'll only protect itself.

Buy a sub-$10 tester, it'll test if an outlet is protected by GFCI, as well as telling you about a bunch of other things that could be wrong.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00170KUPC

None of them will tell you the correct voltage. The only way to know the real Vcore your CPU is getting is to use a multimeter and measure the capacitors behind the CPU socket (these are measuring points for the Asus X370 Prime board). A reasonable quality multimeter can be bought for ~$20.

If you can't use a multimeter to measure what the voltage is then the voltage I would trust the most would be what you set it to (not read) in BIOS, LLC (load line calibration) will cause it to be a bit higher though.

Here are things from my wishlist (past and present)

Wera Screwdrivers
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0085NTQJK/

Oscillating blade set:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0109SELWA/

Clamp multimeter:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00NWGZ4XC/

Kreg Jig Jr.:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000J43A7W/

Angled Long Nose Pliers:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00N3VSS4S/

Groove Lock Pliers:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000FK1R0W/

11 ft wifi endoscope:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MYTHWK4/

non contact voltage tester:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001UAHZAM/

claw nail puller:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0015YPJMY/

Workmate portable work bench:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000077CQ0/

Cable snake fish tape:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000BP7WBO/

9 Outlet metal power bar:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00F8ZQY5M/

Spade drill bit set:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00099E7WE/

36" bubble level:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000UKMWMO/

You don't need a "multi hundred dollar" Fluke DMM to use a thermocouple.

http://www.amazon.com/Extech-MN35-Digital-Mini-MultiMeter/dp/B0012VWR20/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1412566368&sr=8-5&keywords=thermocouple+meter

I would argue that a bad reference is worse than no reference at all, since it can lead down an incorrect path. I just dealt with this with an E3D customer, he swore the thermistor was bad because his IR gun read 150C and the thermistor read 220C. I had him put a thermocouple on it.

The thermocouple read 220C.

The customer wasted hours troubleshooting, got frustrated - all because he didn't understand the limitations of his tools.

Use the right tool for the job, and understand each tool's limitations. Did you look into spot size/reflectivity/emissivity?

Can't go wrong with a Klein: https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT-1-Contact-Voltage/dp/B001UAHZAM

It's pretty much the gold standard, at least for homeowners. But every electrician I've ever had over also uses them.

Thanks for the input. I agree on second thought, rather than have angrier pixies and try and calm them down, would be better have calmer pixies and try and get them angrier.

Any idea for a good board for this?

DROK®Micro LED DC-DC Digital Boost Voltage Converter LM2577 3-34V to 4-35V 5V/12V 2.5A Step-up Adjustable Volt Regulator Board Module Power Supply Transformer for Solar Panels Car Battery Charging https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00J03PBW0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W-eTybWN408CA

It would miss out on the coolness factor of dropping a tool battery in the wife's jug pumper though.

I saw a review a while ago where they said the accuracy was reasonable for home use but the author would be leery using at 120v or above.

Good auto-rangers are so cheap these days, it's hard to justify even spending $5 on something like this. Look at this one for $22: https://www.amazon.com/Extech-MN35-Digital-Mini-MultiMeter/dp/B0012VWR20 You can get pretty nice ones in the $50 range.

That's basically what I wanted to do but everything is really really really rigged to prevent up and coming people from developing anything to help customers. My work around was basically just to do "consulting" for people wanting to DIY with the various systems and to offer my support i/e I basically come by and build it for you but you still gotta be there because otherwise it wouldn't be a DIY it'd be a me doing it which would require me to have all kinds of stupid expensive licenses that ultimately make everything too expensive. There's just so many people going around telling others how "complicated" everything is and that they need to hire a contractor to do it but it's just a huge huge huge lie. It's not complicated at all and really the biggest and most important thing to know is safety. What sort of systems are required for you to have them on your house, that kinda stuff. Most regions a simple island protection is the main thing you need for your inverter which is what basically any grid-tie inverter will have. It's setup so it can sense when the grid goes down and will shut down the system when that happens so the lines aren't energized when they are being worked on. HOA's are another gigantic pain in the ass because it's basically just ignorant lazy stay at home mom's or old people who know nothing about technology who want to tell you what you can and cannot do to make your house better. I actually had a HOA down in georgia try to tell me that putting up solar panels will drive down the value of the other houses around me....seriously they said that. I have no idea how anyone could think that's a possibility but oh well. So I got around their control by just installing the panels on PVC pipes on the ground and attached wheels on them so they were mobile when I wanted them to be. They were no longer a "permanent structure or addon" so the HOA couldn't do or say anything. Loved that one. Also had my neighbor try to tell me that I couldn't do solar because "global warming is a lie"..... I didn't even need his permission I was just asking how he felt about it.

I got into it at first because my dad wanted a solar panel system and so I started researching it for him for pricing. I would get quotes for 2kW systems(generates 2kWh's per hour) for like $20,000 and I just didn't understand how it could be that expensive. So I researched it by physically building my own panels and systems. Was able to build my own solar panel, cells and all for 72 watts at $50 and being able to make one per day or so based on materials. Then I found pre-made things solar panels, inverters, batteries, etc.... and put together a 2kW system and it only cost roughly $2000 or 10x less than what that company wanted to sell it for. Basically it just seemed to me that they didn't actually WANT to have people adopt more solar and were just in it for a quick buck. I hate that. A standard house uses anywhere between 30-50 kWh's per day so buying a 2kW system is almost enough to go off the grid entirely since a kWh is calculated at kW's times hours so a 2kW system will generate 2kWh's per hour or 16+ kWh's per day. You can also cut down on your power consumption drastically by doing away with all the converters in all your system i/e those power bricks on the cords. Pretty much everything you have uses DC power but it converts it from AC so if you were to just use DC it would cut out a good amount of waste. Only issue would be to make sure you have the correct voltage but that's simple by using a buck-boost converter on each socket so you can just set the voltage you want and you're good to go. It'd actually be super cool looking. https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Adjustable-Regulator-Transformer/dp/B00J03PBW0/ref=pd_cp_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00J03PBW0&pd_rd_r=TMDYZV4BN1T9BFJNRN58&pd_rd_w=bRJs2&pd_rd_wg=4RLeo&psc=1&refRID=TMDYZV4BN1T9BFJNRN58 basically you could even cut out a little section so the controls and display are visible to you. Idk about you but I think it would look awesome and really really high tech. Only areas that you can't do that would be anything with motors in them because they do actually usually need AC power so your fridge and central air/window unit would still need AC.

Start with a good meter. A Fluke 115 or a 117 is a good first choice for a entry-level avionics work.

I stayed strictly in avionics and never dumped money into a toolbox --- I bought a Snapon bag, and a good tackle / pin box for my contacts, terminals, splices, etc. I love that it's more portable, but big enough for everything I need.

Its not that difficult. As long as you have a clear understanding of the dangers, breakers, and know the purpose load/line/neutral/ground wires then you will be able to do this no problem.

Also, get yourself a non-contact voltage tester like this: https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT-2-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B001UAHZAM/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1484920204&sr=1-1&keywords=electrical%2Bline%2Btester&th=1

Thanks for bringing that to my attention. The TOBH is the RDA (Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer) and the Kayfun is a RTA (Rebuildable Tank Atomizer). The dripper you drip drops into it and the RTA has a tank. On both of these you would build your coils and wick them with whatever you choose whether cotton, eco wool, rayon, etc..

The nitecore charger is probably the best charger under $20 from what I've tried.

As for a Ohm reader I actually use a multimeter since I can't check the resistance of my rebuildables and the voltage of my batteries plus some other things around home.
INNOVA 3300 Hands-free Digital Multimeter (10 MegOhm) by Innova http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O1X65A/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_qTy8tb0YVJTAA

Finally between the vtc 4 and 5 the mAH difference is 500 mAH. The 5 is the newest one from Sony and a little bit more. I personally went with the VTC 4 from ilumn with the coupon code ispower shipping essentially was free.

If anything doesn't make sense or still need more explanation let me know it's a bit late here so my sentences may not be as clear as usual. Also the two rebuildable are in my opinion the best and shouldn't be taken as fact.

If you want a quick and easy way to figure out which ports in the wall go to which cable get one of these. Plug one end into the wall and the wand you wave over the wires until you hear the tone.

As far as a crimper goes Monoprice has you covered. You can also get the RJ45 ends for cheap. They also have a combo pack with 10 RJ45 ends.

As far as setting things up. You can just put ends on the appropriate cables, plug them into a switch and plug your router in then you'll be fine since current routers will handle the DHCP portion.

Truth! You don't need a Fluke or anything fancy. A $20 meter is more than adequate. Though I kinda wonder what al you get with a $200 multimeter now.

Nah, relax - got to be something simple.
Something like this... a handy thing. the back of your keys ? USB B? The tall fat one? Have you tried putting that into a usb hub and drive that hub with a usbc connector?

https://www.amazon.com/Eversame-Multimeter-Voltmeter-Indicator-DC3-6-30V/dp/B07JYVPLLJ/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3E7VM6QDFO8MB&keywords=usb+c+tester+meter&qid=1567037957&s=gateway&sprefix=usb+c+te%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-4

Digital Multimeter - you'll want to measure voltage. Set it to the next number above what you want to measure - in this case, 20VDC. The spec sheet for that battery pack doesn't list the minimum useful charge, but does mention that it loses about 1v per month (20%) and states that it is fully charged after 14-16 hours.

This here is your friend:

http://www.amazon.com/Extech-CB10-breakers-receptacles-circuits/dp/B0014FNWJG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1408665153&sr=1-2&keywords=circuit+breaker+finder

For ~$30 you can plug it into an outlet, and point the wand at the breaker panel. The wand beeps when you point to the right one. Working on bare wire? Strip back an old extension cord and crimp on some insulated alligator clips.

You could buy one of these http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3300-Hands-free-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B001O1X65A/ref=lp_15707471_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1406769985&sr=1-2 for much cheaper than one of those special ohm readers. I used to use one when rebuilding protank coils with cotton.

I eventually got tired of rebuilding them and recently purchased an aspire nautilus mini. Honestly, the hype is justified. This thing is better than anything I've rebuilt in the protanks.

> Have to do a couple more tests with the fusebox to see what's connected to what

I personally use a circuit/wire tracer for this sort of electrical work.

https://www.amazon.com/Extech-CB10-Kit-Electrical-Troubleshooting-Functions/dp/B0014FNWJG?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1&th=1

Nope: https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-STK001-Non-Contact-Receptacle/dp/B002JGQAQ6/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=live+wire+tester&qid=1563822601&s=gateway&sr=8-6

Hold it up to the wire, if it beeps it's live.

Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Meter-100A-Volt-3-Wire/dp/B00GMZRXE8 (found this from a quick Google search, not sure if it fits the criteria, but you get the idea)

The Raspberry Pi cannot measure analogue voltage directly. You need to use an analogue to digital converter (ADC), such as the MCP3008 or ADS1015. However, these integrated circuits normally measure up to a maximum of 5 V. If you want to measure larger voltages you'd need to use another device.

Normally what you do is use a digital multimeter that has a USB port to transmit the recorded data serially.

https://www.amazon.com/TekPower-TP4000ZC-RS232-Interaced-Ranging-Multimeter/dp/B000OPDFLM

Tell him to stop being cheap and invest the $20 for a wiggy.

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT-1-Contact-Voltage/dp/B001UAHZAM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494858791&sr=8-1&keywords=Klein+50-1000VAC

Or a wire tracker like this wire tracker
:)

If you go with a new meter for an apprentice, this is only a few bucks more than the 15b and is likely what he will be expected to have anyway.

Wow, definitely a classic "New IT guy" project...

Personally, I would tidy up what you can and leave it until you go through a remodel. Maybe start by cleaning up the patch panels and cables coming from the ceilings to the racks in the IDFs. By the time you get that done you will probably be knee-deep in other projects and won't have to deal with the messy shit in the ceilings. Check out r/cableporn for inspiration.

If you do have to deal with the whole shebang, Cat5 is still viable for 1gbit in most instances. If something is obviously damaged or so ridiculously out of code that it has to go, cut it off and pull it out. A tone and probe kit will help find the cable along the way.

For the stuff running along rafters, tied to conduits or just generally not supported/hung, ceiling wires, J-hooks, and rolls of velcro strapping are what you need.

It sounds like you want one of those USB power meters. This would be hardware device that plugs in between your phone and the charger. Here is one example:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JYVPLLJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T0z4CbQW2PD58

A decent autoranging multimeter can be had for ~$20 these days. From a safety and usability standpoint, it’s important to make sure that both the multimeter and leads have a CAT II or III rating and both ports have user replaceable fuses. Even in a computer there are caps that can give you a bad day...

I have a version of this meter that I got in college, and have since put it through its paces in control panels as an automation engineer. It’s held up really well, and I have yet to change the battery. The autoranging is not as quick as a fluke, but more than sufficient for anything I’ve needed.

For electronics, a set of alligator clamp leads and tweezer leads can also be really helpful.

One tool you may not have that will make it a lot safer is a Non contact voltage meter basically you touch the outlet and it will beep if it detects a current. Just incase your breakers aren’t labeled correctly, etc, it’s cheap peace of mind.

Then it’s basically a Phillips head and flat head screw driver. The screws on the sides of the outlets are different colors, make sure they are connected to the correct wire, take pictures of the outlets before you unhook any wires so you’ll know how it goes.

It sounds like the electrician took the fan and light off of the GFCI circuit or wired them into the circuit upstream of the GFCI(that's the only way to have them work when the GFCI is tripped). This may seem like a weird question, but what type of switch do you use for your light? It is a standard flip switch, or is it a dimmer, smart, or otherwise non standard switch? Are the lights in your bathroom smart lights?

​

Also you and/or the electricians probably already did this, but if you haven't I would use a tester similar to this one to make sure nothing is weird with the wiring.

I would get an outlet tester and see if your wiring is basically correct. Thinking this is a ground issue.
Not the best method to test but something like
this will check for obvious issues.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00170KUPC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Z74yCb93HF2KM

I use this tool to find out if outlets are on the same circuit. It also works to check whether the electricity in an outlet is turned on and functioning properly.

I haven't tried it, but if your charger is wired single phase, here's another way.. If it's 3 phase, the meters are much more expensive. Just wire it between the panel and the charger.

All those blue cables and the single white one might be cat5, so the statement doesn't make much sense. cat5 just means it's a 4-pair cable that has a certain number of twists per inch to meet frequency requirements.

If he had said "Row 7 on the 66 block is hot", that would mean something.

Now that I think of it, he could mean that of all the connected rows shown there, only 1 is passing the centurylink signal to a wall jack.

Either way, you need to map what row on that 66 block goes to what wall jack. The usual way is to map it with a tone generator. Trial and error is the other way (e.g., keep moving the centurylink signal on the 66 block until it lands on the wall jack you want).

At the very least, you could get a friend on a cell phone to sit at the wall jack that works while you sit at the 66 block. Start disconnecting stuff one-by-one until your friend tells you the signal went out. You'll have at least found where that wall jack is on the 66 block - or you found where the centurylink signal is coming in. The logic being you either disconnected the incoming signal to the block, or you disconnected the wall jack from the block. A punchdown tool is handy for making connections to the 66 block - just make sure you have the cutting blade pointed the right way.

That’s one way.

I have a no contact voltage probe that I use to make sure the power is cut. Like this.

Klein Tools NCVT-1 Non-Contact Voltage Tester with Low Battery Indicator and Auto Shutdown https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UAHZAM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_vP8ADbJCDXF7M

They are pretty inexpensive and handy to have.

Safety is so important. This will be one of your best friends on the job if you're afraid of getting shocked: Klein Tools NCVT-1 Voltage Tester, Non-Contact Voltage Detector for AC Voltage, Low Battery Indicator and Auto Shutdown, Batteries Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UAHZAM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nzP2Db6S2MTN2

You can always say no if you feel unsafe and if you're unsure of how to do something you can ask questions. Never assume something is dead, always test it with a tic tester before touching it. I've seen seasoned people almost get shocked because they assume something is dead and it isn't. PPE is important and always wear it. Don't worry about looking stupid for being safe, and never let someone pressure you or shame you into doing something unsafe. It's good to have some fear because it helps keep you cautious and keeps you safe!

meter

test lead kit for meter is helpful too

40 watt soldering iron

keep in mind these are basic versions.

I did a tutorial a while back on r/tools (the moderator pissed me off I deleted it and have not been there ever since) but it utilizes wireless AC volt detector. The tip of the non-contact volt detector is a copper wire...adding more metal to the "antenna" makes it more sensitive to detecting/tracing inside walls AC wire.

https://imgur.com/p8299oL ....found the old .gifv http://i.imgur.com/yhHfcy4.gifv (increasing the sensitivity of the non-contact detector, allows you to trace live wires in walls)

Although there are tracing wire tools too like this one..

http://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-701K-G-Professional-Probe-Tracing/dp/B0042VII7A/ref=pd_sim_469_1/185-8648989-3569339?ie=UTF8&dpID=41w9Vu4bwuL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=001PGX2S3M97GERFGKA3

Maybe ask him if he has any of these, they're more specialty tools that not every starter has, but can really come in handy:

lumex (romex) strippers: amazon.ca

tap: kleintools.com

tick tester: amazon.ca

9/16 nut driver (used for installing the ever-popular "dome light"): homedepot.com

plug tester: amazon.ca

This one looks pretty good for $20

It's not exactly uncommon for someone to get sick and tired of dealing with 2 prong outlets who then shuts off a circuit and replaces the outlets with 3 prong versions that have a spot for the ground but aren't actually grounded to anything (since an outlet costs less than $1).

The proper way to deal with that (if you're not replacing wiring) is a GFCI with a tag of "no equipment ground" that can protect the entire circuit of outlets or be done at each box. Sometimes, boxes that old will be small enough that GFCIs might be tricky to fit without replacement of the enclosure.

While plenty of things can be "grandfathered", I think it's generally a code violation to have a ground receptacle that's not actually grounded. If you wanted to run down that road and raise heck, get a tester to verify. It might give you a bit more leverage in asking for at least GFCI outlet installation.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-50957-GFCI-Tester/dp/B002LZTKIU

http://communities.leviton.com/servlet/JiveServlet/downloadImage/2-1134-1005/450-141/gfcibig.JPG

Overcharging is what is most likely to cause a battery to fail.

The ego style batteries are going to mostly be safe as long as you use a proper charger. Don't let it charge over night or on a highly flammable surface. Don't push the button while it's charging.

The most worrying batteries are going to be the ones you can swap in and out of a mod like the Vamo, Kamry K100, etc. They are batteries like the 18650 or 18350 and use a good charger like the Nitecore IntelliCharger i4. You'll want to use a volt meter to check them when you take them from your charger to make sure they aren't charged over 4.2v.

Use a LipoSack while charging batteries for extra safety. You could also build a charging box. Don't pour water on your battery if it catches fire.

If you're still worried. Failure will most likely happen right off the charger (well, on the charger because that is when a fire is most likely), after it has been dropped, or if it has been in an area that is too hot or too cold. Don't use you're battery if you notice any dents or bulges. Hold it away from your face and give it a 3 count test fire away from your face while your device is fully put together after you take it off the charger or if you did something that worried you.

This looks like the one I have.. dirt cheap. If your lab doesn't have a thermocouple, a lot of the entry level extech meter's come with a cheap one and builtin circuitry to read it.

I've had success with this toaster and those stencils on 0.5mm pitch QFNs, 0402 passives, and low pin count LGAs.. but be prepared to do rework. It helps to have a steady hand, high quality tweezers, and ideally a microscope.

There are very few grounded outlets to choose from in my apartment :D But I will give this a shot. I wonder if it is possible to carry out this diagnostic test on the outlets directly using either my multimeter (obviously making sure I know exactly what I'm doing before shoving the leads into the outlet) or using an outlet LED tester

get yourself a circuit tester like this guy that checks the plug wiring. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008E07HM2/ref=s9_top_hd_bw_bxldN_g328_i5/182-5900519-4414349?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-2&pf_rd_r=1G1PTVJ9YNXMB1QWHWRG&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=5d337716-daba-44f5-9314-e3a703bacc06&pf_rd_i=14244461

With the power off, disconnect the heat bed's power cables from the logic board. Take a multimeter and measure resistance across the positive and negative power wires, it should measure 1.2 ohms.

If those are fine, measure the resistance across the thermistor (the temp cable). It should measure around 100k ohms.

If any of the measurements show open then move the measurement up the bed itself to see if it's the cable or the bed that's broken.

If you don't have a multimeter, order one from Amazon or go to your local auto parts store and buy one. It doesn't have to be fancy, this one is fine.

They make coaxial cable testers.This ONE tests up to 4 at once.

As little as possible. The more crap you have, the more it weighs you down.
That said, every home needs some necessities to get by. For me those generally involve cooking, sleeping, and repairs. I just finished watching Parks & Rec and am in a bit of a Ron Swanson mood.

For the kitchen (all recommended by America's Test Kitchen):

Victorinox 8" Chef's Knife

Victorinox Paring knife

CDN Instant Read Thermometer

Lodge 12" skillet - cheap and will last you forever

Crockpot, 6qt - the one kitchen appliance I'd cheat with. Easy delicious meals. Toss in a cheap cut of meat (chuck roast, etc), salt, pepper, garlic, onions, carrots, whatever. Let it sit for 6-8 hours. Dinner for 3 meals.

Tools:

I'd probably just pick up a cheap set of craftsman stuff (screwdrivers, hammer, sockets, pliers). Splurge on the ratchet and any power tools you need:

Bahco 3/8" ratchet - same as snapon F80 at 1/2 the price

Other misc. tools that are quite handy:

Magnetic stud finder - in a new place you're going to be hanging pictures, installing shelving, and mounting curtain rods. These are dirt cheap and super convenient.

Multimeter - Flukes will last you for life. If you need to do any electrical work, these are great. If you don't want to splurge up front just borrow them or buy a cheap $15 one at home depot.

Bedroom:

Get comfortable pillows and nice sheets. Don't get all caught up in the 1000 thread count crap, it's a hoax. Just get at least 400tc or so, and preferably egyptian or pima cotton. My favorite sheets are actually a super cheapo brand that are 60% cotton 40% polyester. I prefer them because they feel more "smooth and cool" rather than "soft and warm".

Obviously get real furniture: dresser, bed with headboard, etc.

Electronics

I won't go into too much detail here, but consider cutting the cord (/r/cordcutters).

A cheap Roku3 + netflix + an OTA antenna can go a long way.

If you have a lot of pictures/media/etc, don't forget about backups. I'd look into an inexpensive NAS, or at least a USB harddrive. They are dirt cheap and worth the insurance.

Insurance

Lastly, don't forget renters or homeowners insurance. If you are renting, you can get rather good coverage for quite cheap. I just paid around $50 for 12 months of coverage on my apartment ($15k coverage, $1k deductible). I shopped around at 5 different places and Amica came out the cheapest by FAR.

Other than that, you don't need much. Buy less crap. Don't buy some $50 automatic electronic wine opener when a $1 wine key will do the job. Same for a can opener.

something like this: http://amzn.com/B004CHVOBG

You can get a cheap multimeter that comes with a thermocouple that you can use to test temps.

I absolutely love this set. The plunger hooks are unbelievably useful! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012VWUI6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nfeCybV0ZPXTM

Amazon Canada, almost double the price:

https://www.amazon.ca/Craftsman-34-82141-Digital-Multimeter-Functions/dp/B000X5TSUA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484172418&sr=8-1&keywords=Craftsman+34-82141

I have this set: Sperry Instruments STK001 Non-Contact Voltage Tester (VD6504) & GFCI Outlet / Receptacle Tester (GFI6302) Kit, Electrical AC Voltage Detector, 2 Pc. Pk., Yellow & Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JGQAQ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PR6GAb5KTG4Y6

Basically the plug tests to make sure the outlet is wired properly. You can also use it in a short GFCI run and it will ensure it's wired properly and let you trip the GFCI outlet for testing sake.

Or if you pull the outlet out of the wall you can check to see if it is truly wired properly.

Edit: just remember too, just because that outlet is wired properly doesn't mean the whole run is. This is in regard to physical inspection.

While searching for a drive power database, I stumbled upon this tool. Really cool. Could be useful...

What powerbank did you use?


This would be the first time I've heard of a Switch bricking on a power bank if this is indeed a brick. If the battery is completely flat (some powerbanks will not work with the switch). It won't show any signs of life. I suggest leave the switch on its dock or on the stock charger for as long as possible and see what happens. If you're not seeing signs of life after, and you're out of warranty and are not scared to open it, you can try a different battery that is charged. If taking it apart is not your speed, there's another option. Get a voltameter like this one https://www.amazon.com/Eversame-Multimeter-Voltmeter-Indicator-DC3-6-30V/dp/B07JYVPLLJ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=XD3MEGPIJZU9&keywords=usb+c+voltage+tester&qid=1562739257&s=gateway&sprefix=usb+c+volt%2Cmobile%2C159&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

Or a regular usb one and see if any amperage is flowing to the console. If its charging it should report at least .40 amps. Any lower or zero indicates that likely the power management chip is dead. This can be fixed by getting a new chip and soldering it to the board. If all else fails, you can sell the switch as broken (even tablet only for around $100) and someone capable of fixing it may just buy it.

Use a fox and hound/toner

Plug the tone generator into the desk-side port. Go to the switch room with the probe and as you touch it to the end of each cable you'll be able to figure out which it is.

I suppose I could probably afford this.

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html

EDIT: Eff it, $.50 more and it gets placed on my doorstep. I would have used more in gas going to the store. Thank you Prime!

http://smile.amazon.com/DT830B-Digital-Voltmeter-Ammeter-Multimeter/dp/B005KGCI0Y

Except it's not a loose connection, it's a brand new power strip that I have it plugged into.

>You don't know first thing about AC, do you?

You don't have to be so fucking rude about it. I never claimed to be an electrician or even know anything about electrics at all.

All I know, for a fact, is that when I plug it in one way, it shuts off. When I turn it around, it doesn't. Maybe polarity is the wrong word for it, I just assumed it was polarity because this thing is what I was given to make sure everything is plugged in right.

You just plug in the transformer, plug this thing into it, and if the two orange lights come on, you're good. Sometimes it's one orange and the red, then you have to flip the plug in the wall.

It does make a difference, I just don't know exactly what that difference is.

Something like this should work.

https://www.amazon.com/TekPower-TP4000ZC-RS232-Interfaced-Ranging-Multimeter/dp/B000OPDFLM/

You may be able to get cheaper, but not terribly much. Of course, you'll need to buy or hack some serial connection. Still pretty easy, and WAY cheaper than a multimeter with a USB connection.

Okay, they're not too bad, just wasn't sure if you were lumping them in with "tools".

While it is possible now, you're still going to be kind of tight. Look around for a good price on the K100 or K101 (they can usually be found around $12) and an IGO-L atomizer (usually anywhere from $9-13). Past that, try to find Sony VTC 4 or VTC 5's, but good luck. If you can't find any, LG 18650HE2's are alright batteries at a cheaper price, but realize you would need to stay above 0.3 ohms with these, and really I would recommend staying about 0.5 ohms until you get good at building coils. As for chargers, the Nitecore I2 is probably the cheapest charger I would trust not to burn my house down.

As far as ohm meters/multimeters, I have an older version of this one (that apparently dropped in price since I last saw it) that will get the job done. It's not the best one by any stretch of the imagination, but it's reasonably accurate.

Well then buy a 117 and be done with it. Happy day.

Thanks for the advice!
Would something like a ULN2803 work for the driver? https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/IC/uln2803a.pdf

And something like this for the dc-dc step up?
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Adjustable-Regulator-Transformer/dp/B00J03PBW0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1468354392&sr=8-5&keywords=step+up+converter

Try one of these $5 tools before you call an electrician.

https://smile.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-GFI-3501-Receptacle-Extension/dp/B00170KUPC

I've seen other posts about people getting shocked by their hyperx alloy boards.

It's either your wall socket that the PC is plugged into not being properly grounded, or the keyboard itself is not grounded properly in the far left pin meaning it's faulty and you should RMA it.

Check if your wall socket is properly grounded, either using a multimeter or with a wall socket ground fault tester.

Because you also say your PC case shocks you, your wall socket is probably faulty.

Digital multimeter... here's a couple decent looking ones that should do most of what you want.

Of course Fluke makes the best, but they certainly charge for it.

I have a Craftsman Professional myself and it's perfectly fine.

So it sounds like the thing to do would be to fix the broken speaker wire. There's a number of ways to do that. I'll list them in decreasing difficulty, and also decreasing quality of fix.

You could:

• Run entirely new wire from the factory wiring harness to the speaker in the door.
  
• Find the break and run new wire from the break to the speaker.
  
• Find the break and just splice in a new bit of wire.
  
  The DMM will come in handy for a lot of things (checking grounds, seeing if your RTO is working, checking fuses, verifying continuity of wires - which you're doing here). If you get a good one now, it'll last you years (I've had mine for more than 10 years and I use it at least a couple times a month for all sorts of automotive and household things!).

We're a small company. I use this and it works well:

http://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-ET64220-Tracker-Tracer/dp/B00279JLBQ/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1396923905&sr=8-10&keywords=cable+toner

We have 3, 2 Greenlee's and 1 Fluke. The Greenlee's are the AT8LK and the 701K-G. The Fluke is the Pro3000 BUT it has never really worked right. I would thoroughly recommend the Greenlee's.

Get a plug tester. I bring one with me whenever I move to a different place. They are $5 in walmart.

What else is on that circuit? Is there another gfci? Also, do you have an outlet tester? You need one like this: http://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-GFI-3501-Outlet-Tester/dp/B00170KUPC It is better at testing the outlet than the outlets own test button.

OP for $10 it's well worth the price. I've owned this one for over 8 years

While you are at it, make sure to get a couple sets of probes for it as well. I cannot tell you how many times I have found myself checking signals against ground how useful having a cable with a alligator clip is (this is the kit I use, works great... http://www.amazon.com/Extech-TL809-Electronic-Test-Lead/dp/B0012VWUI6/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1324837317&sr=8-11)

The box you're looking at is called 2-gang, which is twice as wide as a single gang standard outlet box you're seeing everywhere else. Pull the plate off (looks like just one screw in there) and you'll see two different outlets. You can replace them both, but it's a good idea to figure out why the right one is different. Does the plug type look different? Are they on different breakers? Is the right one upside down (standard convention for an outlet connected to a light switch)?

If there's no difference you can replace both with the same two plug outlets. Having two plugs doesn't require different wiring, they're already tied together (though you can break the connection if one needs to be connected to a switch).

Before you touch anything make sure to flip all breakers that bring power to the box. Typically there's only one but there could be more than one. For example, there could be a a connection between two wires on a different circuit in the same box, unrelated to your plugs. I'd recommend a set of voltages testers like this: Sperry Instruments STK001 Non-Contact Voltage Tester (VD6504) & GFCI Outlet / Receptacle Tester (GFI6302) Kit, Electrical AC Voltage Detector, Yellow & Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JGQAQ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Zi9wDbA8G76M5

Test the outlets with the plug tester to ensure they're off. Use the non-contact tester for any other wires you see in the box.

Thanks. Ugh, add on item. I'm moving into a new house soon, so I might get this circuit breaker finder to map the house while the outlets are still unobstructed.

Make and model of the laptop will help immensely. Does it have a removable battery? The first thing I would do is remove the battery and let it sit for 20 minutes to a half hour or so. If there was a power surge this will let any capacitors settle back to zero.

Second, I would examine your power adapter for any frayed wires or kinks. Laptops get moved around a lot so it's easy to break the end that plugs into the computer or kink the wire near the transformer (the brick). Also, if it's a two piece cord make sure to unplug both pieces and inspect the connections to make sure the metal connectors are clean and without corrosion or breaks.

Once you've made sure everything looks ok you can plug your battery back in (if it's even removable in the first place), plug the power adapter back in and try a different outlet just to make sure there's not an issue with the power at that receptacle. Press the power button and see what happens. If you're still not getting any indication of power whatsoever you're looking at one of two things:

1. Your laptop is toast.
   
2. Your power adapter is toast.
   
   Testing your power adapter is easy. If you have a multi meter or volt meter just google how to test a DC power supply. If you don't have one, even a cheap one like this would likely serve you well. If you don't want to do it yourself or don't trust yourself you can always take it to an electronics repair shop. It takes less than a minute for them to tell you whether or not your adapter is functioning and if it's outputting the correct voltage.
   
   If your power adapter tests ok, all hope isn't lost. Many times the power connector in laptops also loosen over time simply because we tend to move them around while they're plugged in. If you plug in the power adapter and the connection feels loose or wobbly, you might have an internal solder connection that has broken. This is substantially more expensive to fix, but many local electronics or PC shops will take on repairs like this. I've done several myself.
   
   If you need any more info, let me know. If you're experienced with electronics and I've spouted off a bunch of stuff you already knew, sorry :).

Measure the voltage. Either use an inline volt meter, pull the battery out and test it with a multimeter or pop it in a charger that shows the battery voltage.

Looks a bit like maybe a ground/neutral issue, or maybe just a bad ground on the outlet. Easy to test with one of these.

Yup, that will work fine. Personally I buy and recommend this set, but it's 5x the cost of the one you linked and for a one time job would probably perform the same.

edit: Since your wall jacks are terminated, a toner/probe set with an RJ45 port would actually save you time. You would plug the RJ45 into a wall port and then go to the patch panel and start searching with the wand, you will find the cable. With just the clips you would probably want to put the clips on each cable at the patch panel side and then go stick the wand into the wall ports, making sure that the wand touches the pins on the RJ45 jack.

Try to measure how much Wh/mAh go in your battery while charging from 0 to full. A measurement device only costs a few bucks and is very useful to check charging speeds and condition of your batterys.

​

For example: https://www.amazon.com/Eversame-Multimeter-Voltmeter-Indicator-DC3-6-30V/dp/B07JYVPLLJ/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=charge+meter&qid=1567584800&s=gateway&sr=8-15

Safety aside (given it's low voltage), I wouldn't want to go too crappy for the sake of reliability/accuracy.

For the ~$20 mark, I'd try an inexpensive Extech:
https://www.amazon.com/Extech-645618-Digital-Mini-MultiMeter/dp/B0012VWR20/

For the ~$50 mark, the EX-330 was well received on the EEVblog $50 multimeter shootout:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EX0AE4/

I work a lot with meters like these. You're right that they are mostly 120V. Poking around Amazon and Google, there doesn't seem to be anything which handles 220V which can just be plugged in-line with the appliance. Beyond that, there are devices which can meter 220V, but they are not consumer devices, cost $100 and up and need to be wired directly into the circuit.

Your best bet would be to contact your electric company, surprisingly enough - many of them have an energy efficiency initiative or department which will help you reduce your energy costs or offer incentives towards buying energy-efficient fixtures.

thank you for such a quick response. however, i dont have a multimeter ..would something like this work?

Oboy, I'm probably the wrong person to ask. However, /u/BriThePiGuy recommends Joe Knows Electronics boxes, and /u/NeoMarxismIsEvil recommends the following:

> I would order some cheap assortment kits from people on aliexpress. These are the sort that come with like 10 of most common values of resistor, capacitor, etc.

> Other stuff:

> - WeMos d1 mini or mini pro
> - small i2c OLED displays
> - small LCD display
> - tacswitches (buttons)
> - SPDT switches
> - 74HC595 and 74HC165 shift registers
> - either bidirectional logic level shifter modules or mosfets and resistors needed to make them
> - 7 segment led displays (individual)
> - 8x8 led matrices
> - various environmental and physics sensors (often come as a kit of 20+ different modules)
> - extra breadboards
> - jumper wires
> - male and female header strips (for modules that lack pins)
> - cheap breadboard power supplies
> - voltage regulators (both LDO ICs and buck converter)
> - possibly some 4xAA or 4xAAA battery holders
> - trim pot assortment

> Those are just ideas. Some things like 7 seg led digits are pretty cheap and worth having a few of but not terribly important if you have a real display of some sort.

I personally like the assortment of bits I got in my Sparkfun Inventor's Kit, but found that I wanted more of the following:

• Jumpers, though it's since been recommended to me that I just use solid-core 22 AWG wire so I bought this wire kit and these automatic strippers
  
• Breadboards, both self-adhesive and solderable, and maybe some mini ones of each type.
  
• LEDs (RGB and single-color)
  
• A good selection of potentiometers and trimpots, both slide and radial, plus knobs for them if applicable
  
• More buttons of varying types, both clicky and quiet momentary ones (here's a quiet button that's nice)
  
• A good multimeter and maybe some extra probes
  
• Some power supplies, both 12v and 5v. Here's one that's supposed to do both simultaneously, but you'll need a molex plug (which Sparkfun inexplicably doesn't carry) unless you want to strip the end. You might also want some barrel jacks, and this cheap extension cable provides the male end.
  
• A variable power supply would probably also be very useful, but I haven't yet invested in one of those so I can't make a recommendation at this time.
  
• A good selection of resistors
  
• Alligator test clips, plus some with pigtails for prototyping on a breadboard with components that won't fit in those little holes
  
• Some heat shrink tubing and a heat gun that you should only use on the lowest setting for this purpose. When selecting heat shrink tubing, pay attention to it's shrink ratio and what size it'll end up being when you're done.
  
• A soldering kit and some solder. Note that all solders aren't created equal but the one I linked is supposed to be decent.
  
• If you get into larger gauge soldering (for home or automotive wiring), a propane torch will be handy, but you can get something like that for $20 with a propane tank at your local hardware store
  
• Some project boxes

There's a couple handy tools you'll want.

A receptacle tester: https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU makes it easy to see if your GFCI outlet is A. wired correctly and B. trips properly. A perk here, is you can also use this tester to see if your normal outlet is chained to a GFCI outlet or on a GFCI breaker, as they'll trip just as well if you use the test button on this tool.

Actually, you can get both in one: https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-STK001-Non-Contact-Receptacle/dp/B002JGQAQ6 but you want something handy to check if a wire is live. After I believe I've turned off a circuit, I test it a couple times, usually going to a live circuit too to make sure the tester is also working. I want to be super confident before I touch it.

And yeah, I usually never do electrical work without a friend present, just in case I do something dumb. Never work with electrical alone if you can avoid it.

So i think my multimeter doesnt have enough ranges to test the variety of different settings on.



i ended up giving up. I dont think my multimeter does is able to read the different sizes or idk but I am getting a lot of misleading things and my head hurts from organizing by color. Can anyone recommend if one of these will be good?

1. INNOVA 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter
   
   
2. AstroAI Digital Multimeter with Ohm Volt Amp and Diode Test
   
   
3. Crenova MS8233D Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter
   
   
   

Anything that costs less than a thousand bucks probably isn't going to be doing anything for you. I know some people report improvements when upgrading with some of the cheaper Furman stuff, but that could be the result of weird ground loops from daisy-chaining power strips or just defective strips in general.

Based on what I've seen from teardowns of them, it just looks like they have filter chokes for each outlet, which act as sort of a low-pass filter for AC. Theoretically, if you have "line noise" from something like a malfunctioning neon or florescence light or a large AC motor you can filter some of it out. But even low-end power supplies these days tend to have filtering like this, so it just seems redundant.

Your money would likely be better spent on 1) An Outlet Tester 2) An electrician to make sure your house is appropriately grounded. Surge protectors won't save you from a bad or inadequate ground during a lightening strike. Make sure its grounded at the meter, usually to a copper tube in the ground and from your box via something conected to the water pipe; there should be a jumper-wire across your water meter.

If the outlet isn't functioning, replace it first with a standard outlet, then grab one of these and test whether the existing circuit is GFCI protected. If not, throw a GFCI outlet in it's place.

If you want GFCI protection with USB plugs, you could add a GFCI breaker, or GFCI outlet upstream then put a standard outlet with USB plugs.

You want 5v there with just the battery. Those are the output pins for the 5v voltage regulator on the pdb. They step the 14v down to 5 and supply it to the FC. The FC has a few regulators too, but we need to start at that point and work our way out.

The insulation is stripped a bit more than it should be. If the wires got flexed enough they could have shorted. Does it work right now if you plug the battery in?

You also said you had to replaced parts right? That could answer some questions.

Get that meter! It's a good tool for everything, including quads. This one should do.

Have had great success with this cheap set from Amazon . This kit works just fine with my Flukes.

But man are those Fluke leads nice. Tough price to justify but there’s no question that they are much much better.

If the voltage is good, then no you don't need to find it. However, it would annoy the heck out of me to have this mystery. You can use a wire tracer to check around the basement (see link below). Or look at the wire colors and see if you can see the same wire snaking around the panel area.

https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-ET64220-Installers-Must-Have/dp/B00279JLBQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549330219&sr=8-3&keywords=wire+tracer

​

On Amazon, 41% off Extech TL809 Electronic Test Lead Kit

A couple of ways. They make an inexpensive outlets tester (6-8 bucks) that tests the outlet.

GFCI tester

Or you can take a multimeter and read from neutral to ground using resistance and it should be in a low ohm range. Like 10 or less as the neutral and ground are bonded at your service. If it's not reading low and reading open, the neutral is open on that branch circuit somewhere between that outlet box and the service.

Just out of curiosity, why wouldn't one of these work?

Just get one of these, and one of these and see what voltage drop is.

In my testing, the Quest can draw 2.8A at 5.1v when charging and playing.

Craftsman 34-82141 Digital Multimeter with 8 Functions and 20 Ranges https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X5TSUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U2YPDbRKTTDA3

Well, one way you can determine which cable is the one you want is with a toner.
Something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-VDV512-058-Explorer-Tester/dp/B004CHVOBG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505149010&sr=8-3&keywords=cable%2Btoner&th=1
put one of the remote end at the jack, then use the other part of the device at the other end of the cable. If you get a good light, you found it.

Now, if you dont get any lights at the termination end, then there is a break somewhere in the run.
First thing to check is remove the wall plate and make sure the wire is secured to the back of it.
If that checks out, then the fun begins of tracing that wire.
Generally, if this is up on the second floor, I bet it goes up into the attic before heading down to where the rest terminate.

I think he's referring to one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Amprobe-ST-102B-Socket-Tester-GFCI/dp/B008E07HM2

That would likely show which socket has an open ground on it.

thanks for the encouragement!

I certainly do have non-contact voltage testers readily available and multimeters as i've been luckily enough to have made mistakes which made sparks but didnt hurt or burn anything down so i've learned my lesson. If i'm not 100%, take 5 seconds to check vs spending 5 hours at the hospital! =)

Non-Contact Voltage tester for those wondering what that is (life saver tool):

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT-1-Non-Contact-Indicator/dp/B001UAHZAM/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1792TVYRSE11A&keywords=non+contact+voltage+tester&qid=1572892596&sprefix=non-voltage+con%2Caps%2C147&sr=8-6

For a MoCa from the 1st to 3rd floor, you would need 2 cable segments; could you remove those two segments from the splitter and connect them directly to each other, to form a single dedicated segment?

Might need a cable tester to figure out which ones they are.

Obligatory random Amazon link:
https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-VDV512-058-Explorer-Tester/dp/B004CHVOBG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503072653&sr=8-2&keywords=coax+cable+tester

While I likely agree with everything.... I'm think I'll go with a 40 AMP breaker, 240V, and it's looking like #6 gage wire... I have 30 video cards and I'd like to have them all on the same circuit with something like this:


Electric kWh Meter, 100A 120/240 Volt, 3-Wire, 60Hz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GMZRXE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_w4yIzb04F603G


That way I can (safely) run everything thru that and have an idea just how much this absurdity is costing me (exactly, I mean, I know roughly, but with an entire house of gadgets who can be sure). I believe the #6 is good up to 40 amps under 50' and leaves me looooads of wiggle room if my meter gives me comfort on overclocking and such... (At stock 30 1080 Ti's use ~35 AMPs including 90% efficiency, so fuck, maybe I can't over draw on them lol)


These are what ifs of course, I'm still just closing on the house who's basement I'd do this to


Edit: would it be better to do a sub panel situation (I have plenty of free #12 AWG wire) so I can buy just 10 feet or so of #6, put the meter on it, and run it to a sub panel, then run #12 from there to an outlet each for a rig each

Get an Outlet Tester, it'll tell you what is jacked with the outlet.

If the outlet is good, there will be a place on the back of the DW where the wires connect. Make sure the correct wires are in the correct spot and that it's properly grounded.

Source: just some dude.

With the amount of power you got running out of your panel, I'm surprised you didn't just put in a simple submeter like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Meter-100A-Volt-3-Wire/dp/B00GMZRXE8

Thanks man, I misunderstood the schematic. How would you feel about using the following:

• Small solenoid
  
  
• Boost Converter
  
  
• NPN Transistor
  
  To be honest I don't know if that's the right transistor to use, I kinda ballparked on the specs. And I guess it would need a resistor too?
  
  Here's my schematic: http://imgur.com/a/YDZQG

Klein Tools VDV512-058 Coax Explorer Plus Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004CHVOBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1N2UzbHQ3AC72

Will this tell me?

modifying them to accept external voltage is both cheap and effective.

I have 4 dc boost modules, one per axis + single extruder. with the printer running and the heated bed off (since it cycles on and off when it only needs to be at 60degC), the control board + the boost modules + the fans + the heater cartridge + the LCD screens (I have a TFT28 and RepRap discount controller hooked up at the same time), the printer consumes about 84 watts when printing (measured at the AC input).

You could do what I did a lot easier by using just one unit like this 150W one: https://www.amazon.com/Gowoops-10-32V-Converter-Adjustable-Voltage/dp/B00J1X4XXM/ref=pd_sbs_328_1?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=GBF90A2DQJT7VEMF415F&th=1

or perhaps even this one since it's about 100W

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Adjustable-Regulator-Transformer/dp/B00J03PBW0/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M4D39ZHV4RJRJHK4A93Y

I think the total power consumption at 30V is around 60-65 watts (at the AC Input), so with air cooling that should work fine.

It's not so much the barrel jack as making sure you're delivering the right voltage; too much and you could fry your servo. You can use a multimeter (something like this) to test the voltage coming from your batteries and compare with the needs of your servo.

What are you using to provide a signal to the servo? In my case I'm using an Arduino

I purchased one of these after getting my house and it's been quite useful:

Extech CB10 Circuit Breaker Finder locates fuses/breakers, tests receptacles and GFCI circuits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014FNWJG/ref=cm_sw_r_taa_0StmybBJFGQZB

Edit: it's sensitive enough to trace wires through drywall too. This is quite useful to me as I have electrical in my crawlspace and attic.

http://www.amazon.com/DT830B-Digital-Voltmeter-Ammeter-Multimeter/dp/B005KGCI0Y/ref=sr_1_15?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1383038935&sr=1-15&keywords=multimeter

Got this one. Works like it should.

I have a simple multimeter that I use for testing wattage on my Power Supplies and PC builds. Looks very similar to this. I imagine I can test ohms on it as well.

Thanks for all the help... this community is awesome.

It'll do what you need, but there's no reason to order a MM from china. You can get one from amazon for just as cheap that'll perform just as well.

EDIT: Actually that one is rated from 200-2M ohm (unless that is it's settings, covered below). So maybe not that one, but I doubt you'd have any issue finding one that would work (I'm betting the 200-2M is implying two different settings though and it should work). This one seems to claim 0.8% accuracy at 0-200 ohm (I'm guessing that's what the specifications are implying, horrible description though) Often times a 200 ohm setting implies that it is the max it can read though (on that particular setting, their will be a 200ohm and a 2M ohm setting for instance on that first one), not the minimum limit. Amazon just isn't very good with descriptions tbh.

Automatic Wire Stripper

Plastic Trim Tools

Digital Multimeter

Wire Puller

Something like this could easily be wired into a recepticle providing power to a server.

I was using the power company merely as an example of how power consumption is measured over time.

For North American coax cables this can test 4 outlets at once.

>(Also, in the schematic, the LED being on will not indicate that the battery is charging, simply that power is connected)

Yeah that's all I care about.

Here's the BMS

Here's the boost converter I was going to use... until I fried the POT on it - lol. My 3A power supply must be slightly >3A. I've got some POTs on order, I'll fix it tomorrow, and use a 2.5A power supply instead. Gotta love the smell of magic smoke in the morning.

I guess I could just get a 13v power supply instead but they're not easy to find, so, 16v and a buck converter?

>Most BMS/battery chargers will have an output that indicate when they are charging.

Is that what the 2 terminals with the diode symbol are for between P+ and P- maybe?

Get a serial port-enabled multimeter. And a usb-serial adapter if you computer doesn't have a serial port.

Cheap amazon link

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050LVFS0 and http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002LZTKIU

I bought this one from Amazon and have the same problem. Pisses me off.

I have this one maybe I didn't get the best one for the job?

Ugh.. I guess the leads shorted the pins together when you were poking them in there? Sorry, I have a full set of test leads, forget basic multimeters just have long pokey conductive sticks..

Edit: If your meter has replaceable leads, something like this is highly recommended. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0012VWUI6/

Put the miniclips on pins before turning on power, and no worries about accidentally shorting things.

I recently got this one and when I test coils before I mount them on my IGO-L, I get crazy fluctuations in my readings for an estimated 1.0 Ohm coil, I get readins of 300 Ohms to 1 Ohm) and, if it does settle at all, it;s widely inaccurate.

My buddy told me that the test lead's cables are probably shoddy and I'm probably never going to get a good reading for low Ohm coils with a cheapy meter like this.

I'm thinking now of going with one of those Ohm Readers with 501 connectors right on the unit like this. even though I had the idea of having a "single-purpose tool", I guess I can use it as a stable "work base" while I'm building as well. Any opinions?

I ended up buying this : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LZTKIU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Because the one I linked was a add on item which I couldn't buy unless I had $25 worth of stuff in my cart

Fair enough. Here's a less expensive alternative that I think is decent: LINK

something like this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J03PBW0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AFHAE9RJVUMB
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MUT4ZE6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2PMIWMSUTAYGS
??

Yep.. Sperry Toner..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00279JLBQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In America. Complete amateur.

Background: I've wired off the back of this circuit before. It's got three outlets on it so I ran a new string of two more outlets behind it.

Now: Remodeling kitchen, shut off the same circuit I did before, tested the outlet with:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00170KUPC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pqcKDbYM29YQ9

And no lights came on in either outlet and nothing worked further down the circuit so i thought I was good. Went to the second outlet on the circuit and began taking it apart. Got the outlet pulled away from the box to see the mess you see in the photo. Question 1, isn't that wrong? The old owner twisted the incoming and outgoing wires together, then ran one of them long to hook around the terminal. I've never seen any videos telling me to do it that way..

But anyway, I loosened the terminals and pulled off the wires all was good. Set the outlet aside. But because he twisted everything together inside the box like that, I decided it would be easier for me to just cut the cable off above and below the box and just pull them through.

Went to cut the black wire and heard a pop and spark and noped the fuck outta there and haven't touched it since. Any help on all or some of the below questions would be helpful and much appreciated.

A) Does it still have power? Why?

B) Do I need an electrician?

C) How close did I come to killing myself? Really.

D) Why was it ok for me to touch the outlet, pull off the wires, touch them, etc. But when I went to cut the black one I suddenly get action?

As much as possible, ELI5, I'm an amateur but really want to learn. I will Google everything, give me articles if needed.. Fascinated by all of this and don't wanna die. Thanks in advance.

to find the right circuit for your outlet you can use one of these and also run a test

https://www.amazon.com/Extech-CB10-Circuit-Breaker-Finder/dp/B0014FNWJG

if you can't perform the test or if you have no continuity between the outlet and the circuit breaker box..

turn your main breaker off and open the outlet and look for any signs of burning on the connections of the outlet.. use an ohm meter and test from the outlet where the plug inserts to the screw where the wire attaches on the back

I would also just replace one of the outlets and see if it works.

also remember that just because an outlet is listed on a specific circuit at the circuit breaker doesn't mean it is actually on that circuit. I have seen home runs that were installed for eletronics or window air conditioners labeled as home runs with nothing else on the circuit only to find other outlets in the house on that same circuit.

This is a start and not the full diagnosis .. you would need to find out why the circuit is not working .. what other outlets or items are on that circuit

could be as simple as someone using a plugin bush trimmer and cutting the cord and then burning out the outlet.. I have done that myself...

anyway be careful about it.

What about them? This will do it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GMZRXE8

Yea they are safe. You could test it with this. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008E07HM2/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478650957&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ground+tester&dpPl=1&dpID=41PpLbTKJ1L&ref=plSrch to see if it is actually grounded. Pretty safe tho.