(Part 3) Best painting & art supplies according to redditors
We found 3,907 Reddit comments discussing the best painting & art supplies. We ranked the 1,713 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
Yeah, you can get away with even putting these in the wash. You can wrap them in a tied pillow case or preferably a mesh bag made for washing sneakers. Put the cycle on normal and put in a tide pod. Make sure to remove laces and inner sole (although I've left the sole in on accident with no issues). Don't put them in the dryer.
This should clean the fabric quite easily and most of the boost as well. These oil based paint markers do the trick. You can even fix some imperfections on the plastic part of the cage too if you're careful.
So I have one of those erasers that's in pencil form, like, it looks like a pencil, but instead of "pencil lead" or whatever, it's an eraser. It gets into tiny spaces to erase small stuff.
Anyway, I've had luck toning down smears like this with these erasers. They have a light grit, so don't press too hard. It might help!
https://www.amazon.com/Faber-Castell-185698-Faber-Castel-Pencils/dp/B005M4LAUS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539890603&sr=8-4&keywords=eraser+pencil
First off, that's so thoughtful!
I'm no expert by any means. I am very much a beginner with not much to show for it, but I got into watercolor in a roundabout way through calligraphy and hand lettering. Now, despite only putting in some months experience, I have poured hours into finding a nice starter set for myself, so hopefully I can shortcut some of this for you.
I respectfully disagree with the other commenters. As convenient as national chain hobby shops are, they are pricey for that convenience, and I rarely find people who know a lot about one thing versus a little about a lot of things. The only exception I've found to this near me is Jerry's Artarama, but that might be different where you are. If I'm in a pinch and I can't wait the two days for shipping, I will only go into a Michaels or Hobby Lobby if I am armed with one of their 40-50% coupons. Even then, 9 times out of 10 it is more expensive than ordering via Amazon for the materials I am looking for. Additionally, since they can only carry so much inventory, I only find (1) the most basic (cheap in price and quality) items or (2) very famous names.
Watercolors can seem very expensive if you're measuring price per mL, but remember that high quality pigments are meant to be diluted with water, and a little bit goes a very long way. Watercolors are also meant to be mixed! Your SO will want to learn about color theory as she goes (tons of great youtube classes on this too), so that also means to start she doesn't need a massive set. So long as she has most of the primaries she will start coming up with all the colors she needs for her project. Additionally, as she gets more into it, she might find that while she likes her set from X brand, she likes the burnt sienna from Y brand, and the french ultramarine from Z brand. Getting tube colors + an empty watercolor tin will give her a strong base to start painting right away but the flexibility to add her own colors piece by piece as she plans more projects and paintings. Also, when tube paints dry in the tin (you can rewet them/reuse them later), they become portable, giving the same convenience of pan sets.
This was my starter set from [calligraphy] (https://www.amazon.com/Kuretake-Picture-Letter-MC20-36V/dp/B001MPA6W4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511058329&sr=8-1&keywords=kuretake+gansai+tambi+watercolors). I love the pigments, but in retrospect I could've gotten by with WAY LESS colors. In retrospect, I should've gotten something like this with a tin. Remember, the tin doubles as a mixing palette. Daniel Smith is a very popular American brand, but surely not the end all be all. Windsor & Newton, English brand, is also popular, and they have a fairly good "student" grade line called Windsor & Newton Cotman where you can save some money but not skimp out on too much quality.
Watercolor is almost exclusively done on paper. Now, since water and paper generally don't mix, you'll be concerned with the "pounds" of the paper. For everyday practice, many watercolorists are comfortable with 140 lbs spiral bound pads of cold press (meaning it's a bit rough in texture, not smooth). I like spiral bound because you can flip through and work on a few different concurrent projects (for the love of god, make sure they're completely dry first though q.q). These will buckle and warp with very heavy water application. Final projects, or anything meant for professional scanning and printing or super heavy wet work, you will probably be buying 200 lbs+ paper as needed. These can be bought in blocks/pads or as single sheets. As the pounds go up, so does the price.
Brushes! These can also get very pricey, but as with the pigments, there may be some sense in it. Higher end brushes are affixed with either natural or synthetic (or a mix) of hairs that (1) hold more water than cheap brushes and (2) keep the hairs from falling out into your paints or painting. I personally use Windsor and Newton brushes, but I don't have a lot of different types yet, and that seems to be fine to learn on. A round brush goes a long way, as you learn to put down a lot of color or very fine lines depending on how much pressure you put on the paper. As a starter set you might get two round brushes in two sizes like a 4 and a 12.
Finally, while there are lots of artists in Art Fundamentals, I might post this specifically in /r/learnart or /r/watercolor for more insight. Most of us here are working on constructional drawing with pen and paper, not necessarily painting.
For my figures flesh tones I use Games Workshop’s Citadel Kislev Flesh which works VERY well with their Cadian Fleshtone.
I've been eyeing Vallejo's Face/Skin Colors Paint Set for awhile. It's 8 colors that'll help add a bit of variety. Amazon Link
Eh, I personally recommend not buying bundles even-though they seem like a better deal. I started by just buying paints that I would need for a particular model and continuing from there. Before I knew it I had a full range of paint from all different companies.
Buying a set of paints will only save you a little cash, but I'd bet that the big sets will include paints you will never really touch so you aren't actually saving any money buying them.
If you really want to go the paint route on Amazon then I will admit that I did in fact buy these sets when I was starting painting on a set of Zombicide minis:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EKCOE2/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487690557&sr=sr-1&keywords=vallejo+paint
https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Face-Colors-Paint-8-Colors/dp/B000PHCPTM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487690721&sr=8-1&keywords=vallejo+paint+flesh
Couldnt resist the sns sale on this pair for about $130. and i knew id be blacking out that boost before i bought. (sorry dont see it available any longer, but its on goat and stockx for 120-160ish depending on size.) i wanted to try the full angelus method since heskicks said it lasted on youtube, and it took me 3 days on and off this weekend.
full photo album progress here with comparison pix in different steps of the method and against "OEM" black adidas boost https://imgur.com/a/5RE2d
STEPS
Day 1 – deglaze and dye. Deglazed before dinner, painted dye layer 1, wait 10 mins then dye layer 2. Let dry overnight.
Day 2 – Dye reducer. Feelgoodkicks on youtube said this was important to eliminate cracking and that purpleish sharpie-like tint, so I tried it. Make sure to very lightly roll a Q-tip over your dye work, otherwise else you can completely remove all your work. Later that day I painted with the flat black paint. Waited 10 mins then did a 2nd layer.
Day 3 – Acrylic Paint. Wait 10 mins and do a 2nd layer. Still looked too glossy to me, so I masked the upper and sprayed with krylon later that day. And a 2nd layer a few mins after as the instructions state to get my finished product. Also added alternate laces and gunmetal grey aglets. Didnt end up using the mink oil since Im worried the boost will gloss up, but I still might try some later.
OVERALL TIPS
With any painting, take your time and do LIGHT layers to prevent chipping/cracking as much as possible.
I didnt mask the upper when painting since i went slowly, but paint brushes are actually easier to use very close to the primeknit than the sharpies were. I normally painted that upper edge first, then used a larger brush to paint the main part of the boost.
Krylon spray was a must. Album has a comparison photo with just angelus finish and its super glossy compared to the krylon finish. Using krylon finish alone, however, the paint rubbed off the boost whenever i touched it. so gotta do both
PREVIOUS POST (sharpie method)
https://www.reddit.com/r/Sneakers/comments/7thl9p/iniki_boost_blackout_oil_based_sharpie_matte/
Since the previous sharpie method rubbed off a bit on my fingers, I retouched with the anglus acrylic finish and then krylon again to get it more matte. Seemed to do the job.
I think for the sharpie method id have to add deglazer and angelus finish. so a total of 4 purchases would be good (deglazer, sharpie, angelus acrylic finish, krylon matte finish)
PRODUCT LINKS
Angelus Leather Preparer & Deglazer 4 Oz - $6.60
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EU322DQ
Angelus Brand Leather Dye W/applicator - 3 Oz ''Jet Black'' - $6.75
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016QV7XIS
Angelus Acrylic 4 Ounce Paint (Flat Black) - $8.49
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MPXF6XG
Angelus Brand Acrylic Leather Paint Matte Finisher No. 620 - 4oz - $7.59
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B5W4LX4
Krylon Matte Finish - $3.47
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ENZ8CS
Heartybay Nylon Paint Brush Set - $5.98
https://www.amazon.com/Heartybay-10Pieces-Round-Pointed-Nylon/dp/B00V4EG6D6
https://www.amazon.com/Cafego-100-250V-Airbrush-Portable-Compressor/dp/B071J4M3X6
If you're planning on doing more minis, don't mind spending a few bucks, and really want a quick easy way to shade for tabletop without having to mix your own washes, Army Painter's Strong Tone Quick Shade is awesome.
Put on with a brush, soak up some of the extra that drips onto the base, enjoy your awesome-looking, shaded mini. :)
> I saw on BGG about wash painting them. How hard is that?
Pretty easy. Buy a wash, slather it all over your minis, let them dry for a day or two, done. If you're totally inexperienced with painting, your best bet for this is probably Army Painter Quick Shade. You just dip the minis in the pot and that's it. Make sure you check out examples of the results before you commit to the quick shade variant over the traditional brush on wash.
> Also, if I do that then decided later to try and actually paint them will I be able to over the wash?
Yes, definitely. Washes are designed for you to be able to paint over them. You can either paint over it directly, or I'd recommend stripping them with simple green and giving them a base coat from a rattle can spray primer. You may even want to do this before you wash them in the first place but it's not absolutely necessary.
Gocheer 100-250V Dual Action... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B071J4M3X6?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I used mr. metallic colour GX: GX metal red
Lettering guide! or are you talking about the parallel rule that's table mounted (that's a mayline and it's got a cabling system)
https://www.amazon.com/Alvin-AL666-Lettering-Guide-Template/dp/B001DNAHRO
The reviews are a bit special, I doubt it'll last you long, even if it manages to spray once for you. I've never come across such a compressor, in honesty, save your money, buy once and buy right.
If you're that tight on funds then one of these will get you going, but the compressor leaves a lot to be desired. If you can stretch further, a kit like this has a decent compressor, the airbrush is still a cheap chinese kit. If you want to spend money more wisely then a compressor like this and an airbrush like this will serve many years for a beginner before upgrading the airbrush to something with higher detail. The compressor will serve any model airbrush very well. You can get that compressor or similar in a kit too.
I use an iwata HP-BCS.
http://www.iwata-medea.com/products/iwata-airbrushes/eclipse/
Its great because it will take any paint I have thrown at it without thinning. It feels like an industrial airbrush with the thick paints I can use and it's really nice not to have to worry about thinning paint. This can also be a bit of a problem because it will also throw paint chunks if you have contaminated or old paint.
This brush does have some disadvantages. The needle does on occasion needs a touch of lube to keep it working well and it took me a long time to figure this out (herp derp). The double action is nice but it makes it a little harder to clean but I've never really had a problem cleaning it so this is mostly what other people say about the double action brushes.
That said, It might be nice to have the style with the top feed hopper, something like the HP-CS. A design like this would mean I would waste less paint and make it easier to just drip some in and go. With my brush you need to fill enough of the bottle to allow the pickup hose to reach the paint and this wastes paint when It comes time to clean the bottle. I also find I am poring paint back and forth a lot, and all that can lead to paint contamination and spills.
As for maintenance I use mostly water cleanup paints so I just run water through it. For the occasional deep clean I use this magic stuff called. ["Brush Cleaner and Restorer" from Winsor & Newton] (https://smile.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Brush-Cleaner-Restorer/dp/B005M4W1VK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1511330111&sr=8-6&keywords=paint+brush+cleaner). It has very little smell seems pretty non-toxic (and is labeled as such) and will remove any oil, enamel, acrylic, or wax paints I have ever used. I can't say enough about this stuff. Just soak the needle and spray head in this stuff for a while and wipe with a q-tip and your brush (air or hair) will look like new.
In conclusion, with my experience with the just the HP-BCS, I would probably not buy it again, but instead get the HP-CS. Its pretty much the same brush but that top feed style seems much easier to clean and would waste less paint, especially with the dropper style paints like Vallejo sells.
Lettering guide. Should be between $3 and $6, can be found many places online or in specialty art stores. Literally invented for making ruled lines.
This one? https://www.amazon.com/Cafego-100-250V-Airbrush-Portable-Compressor/dp/B071J4M3X6
I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Masking-Fluid-75ml/dp/B005P1ROEY
Some artists suggest that you split the difference of the bottle once you own one so that you can save half for later and avoid drying out the whole bottle as it tends to react to air very poorly, speeding up the drying process of the contents inside when uncapped during use.
Want to get into airbrushing but not sure which kit to get - was hoping someone could recommend one to me
So far I'm interested in these two
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TO578Q/?coliid=I1SXGU2NC07752&colid=R7SNPP6EN7WU&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071J4M3X6/?coliid=I1XQMNT8SQI7FQ&colid=R7SNPP6EN7WU&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Also wanted to get this airbrush booth and was wondering how frequently I would have to change filters and how difficult it is to do so (ie. is it easy to find replacement filters and is it difficult to take apart and put back in)
https://www.amazon.com/F2C-Airbrush-Extractory-Portable-Powerful/dp/B01N7KS6WD/ref=pd_sbs_201_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01N7KS6WD&pd_rd_r=VEZEEP5S6M236Z4M1K9M&pd_rd_w=lqEqi&pd_rd_wg=HcIxM&psc=1&refRID=VEZEEP5S6M236Z4M1K9M
What I did for these wedges:
Thanks, for flesh tones I'm mainly using Vallejo's flesh tone pack.
I am very amateur, but I highly recommend Strong Tone Quickshade, that stuff is amazing and was the easiest part of the process. This is how they came out.
Jason Mark Essential kit: $16.99
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D12KGVW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Brush Set- $5.89
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V4EG6D6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Angelus Paint: $8.49
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HQ53QA8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Disclaimer: In this video I'm lubing a linear switch but if you're lubing a tactile switch, you might want to skip lubing the legs of the stem and the leaf bumps, because this decreases the tactility of the switch.
This video shows what I do when I lubricate keyboard switches with grease and a paintbrush. This video can even help someone who doesn't know anything about lubing keyboard switches and just wants to see what it involves and how they could get started.
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I will go slowly in the video, trying to be sure you can see what I'm doing.
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My choices of where to apply lube are based on experience and on the results of an experiment I did and documented here:
https://imgur.com/gallery/hijSYcp
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I wanted to show 2 different ways to open the switch, using a special opener tool or using regular tweezers. Both methods work fine.
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The grease I typically use for this method is Tribosys 3204, which you can purchase from keyboard vendors such as switchmod.net, novelkeys.xyz, 1upkeyboards.com, etc. Other greases I like to use are Krytox 205g0 and Christo Lube MCG 129.
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Tools:
Painbrush: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V4EG6D6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Tweezers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPFQHM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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4 Prong Pick-Up Tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RB3KZ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Switch Opener tool: https://kiiboss.studio/products/kiiopener_mx.html
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In case you are opening Halo switches or BOX switches: https://kiiboss.studio/products/kiiopener_kailh.html
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Acrylic switch holder / modding station: https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=525320012520
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Or https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Keyboard-Axis-Board-for-Machanical-Keyboard-Black-Axis-Blue-Brown-Red-Gray-Green-White-Axis-Acrylic/32802439596.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.37e34c4dgCIZli
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A 3d printed option: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3294929
$100 will get you pretty far! obligatory ymmv, a lot of supplies depend on what and how you paint (do you paint large or small? do you paint outside a lot and need a travel kit? and so on), etc, etc, but here is how i would spend the money:
kuretake gansai tanbi, 36 color set - the best set of watercolors i have used and relatively cheap, the colors are vibrant, mix well, and set beautifully.
probably where most of the money should go after upgrading your paints. i like the strathmore 500 series and the canson papers for sketching and learning. other higher end brands that are recommended a lot are arches, bee paper, and fluid 100. definitely try out both hot press and cold press, people usually develop a preference but one is not necessarily better than the other.
honestly, brushes are not that important as long as they are not frayed or shedding. i've seen tons of professionals use and recommend this cheap set by grace art. i also like the princeton neptune brushes.
if you still have money left, i would suggest trying something cool like metallic and pearlescent paints if it interests you. or use the money towards other mediums if you want to branch out.
This is a fairly affordable set that will help you get started.
Also, get brush cleaner to extend the life of your brushes.
When you get some natural bristle brushes that you want to keep clean this helps keep them in good shape.
Remember to dunk your brushes in water every few minutes, while you're painting, to keep paint from drying on the bristles. Also, don't store them standing up. Store them laying down so that water and paint don't work into the ferrule.
An air brush kit like this will work fine for starters.
I have something similar and it works great.
The learning curve comes with setting up the airbrush just right. There are several points of adjustment that effect how the paint comes out, and it took me a while to figure out. So lots of trial and error. Getting a giant bottle of cheap water based acrylic primer and playing with that is a good way to start. Or even just plain water on sprayed onto something that will show being wet, brown paper towel or bag, or cardboard worked well.
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Professional-Compressor-Primary/dp/B00EKT30JK
> I feel like I'm walking down the hallway that leads to me getting an airbrush and just buying the small vials of Tamiya paint...
Yep, that's where you're headed. There are some pretty decent cheapo airbrush kits available. I have this "Master Airbrush" kit, and it works pretty well (there are cheaper versions with just 1 airbrush). You'll be amazed at how little paint it takes to cover a model with the gun. Just make sure you buy thinner... lots and lots of thinner.
I used a mix of Vallejo and P3 paints to paint each color on the figure -skin, clothes, weapons, venom sacs, etc. I then brushed on a dip, specifically Army Painter Strongtone to give them shading and a dirty dark tint.
All the materials might be pretty pricey if you were buying them just for painting up Myth, but it's all stuff I already had lying around from painting other minis games, so...
This was hand brushed. I felt that I would fork out for an airbrush down the line if I was serious about picking up the hobby. Originally I planned to use some Mr Hobby colours I got off Ebay. Unfortunately I realised too late that most of the colours I had purchased were gloss and I read that they don't do well for parts that are not meant to be glossy! I then settled on some Vallejo Model colors off Amazon, this and this set. In my very limited experience they seem quite easy to work with, water based, easy to thin down and apply.
What putty would you suggest using? I tried using some Milliput Epoxy putty and a bit of vaseline so the parts wouldn't stick together, but I found that I was either not mixing it in the right proportions so it wouldn't set or that it still stuck the parts together despite using vaseline.
I highly recommend this package from Amazon if you're in the US. It gives you all the necessary bits for quality miniatures airbrushing along with a great (and pretty quiet compressor).
Something like this?
I bought a master brand airbrush kit off amazon this Christmas and along with what i found here. Here are my thoughts:
What i don't like about the Ninja:
The spirit jet is very similar to the compressor I have but mine was significantly cheaper. If you look on Amazon there are tons of this exact compressor that companies have just stuck their sticker on.
Iwata Paasche Master
Personally, I would get one of the no-name brands with a tank for less than what you would pay for the name brand ones. Then use the money you saved to get a decent brush or the accessories you need. The ones that come with the Master kits isn't terrible if you are new but once you use a higher quality brush you'll see the difference.
I don't know if they're the cheapest but I buy most of my paints from Miniature Market. Vallejo paints are $2.89 and shipping is usually $6 if your order is less than $99 (otherwise it's free). They have a pretty wide selection so you can pick and choose whatever you'd like. Reaper and Army Painter are a little cheaper per pot. Going this route might end up slightly (like a few dollars) more expensive than buying a bundle with Prime shipping, but you'll only get paints that you actually wanted. IF you're like me and end up buying a bunch, keep a spreadsheet to track which colors you already have. I've ended up with a few duplicates before I started tracking things better. Plus, you can pick up some inks, which if you follow someone like Sorastro (who will eventually be doing a Kingdom Death series), play a big role.
I'd also recommend you get a can of Army Painter Quickshade. The can isn't too big but it will last a long, long, time.
Thank you. I will say that it definitely helps to practice a lot and have good materials. Learning how to highlight a face is a must and there are a ton of videos and tutorials about that. I recommend a good set of brushes (about 2-3 different sizes), I use thePsycho by Army painter and I have used it for the last 2 years for those fine details. I am also beginning to use a wet palette which helps create layers, I usually do about 3-4 different shades. Finally, using a set of magnifying lenses helps a lot. I can give more details, but those are the biggest tips I can give.
I'm loving your watercolour portraits! My advice would be to avoid the white for highlights and instead using something like masking fluid for small parts without colour. This way you can also go a bit more crazy with the watercolors and use layers if necessary. I would also suggest trying out some less obvious colours - blues would suit this style v. well and look suitably lacrymose!
Been painting a few years and lurking here forever, here's my advice:
> Mixing Brush: I am told that you should not mix paint with your primary brushes. Where can I buy a cheap brush for mixing, and anything special I need?
If I'm already using a "larger" brush (1 or higher) I'll mix with my good brushes and just be mindful of how far up the ferrule I am or use the back of the brush. If I'm using a detail brush I'll use a super cheap synthetic 2 or 3. Look on amazon or at a local art chain (Michaels) for cheap student grade packs of round brushes. You'll end up using these for terrain, PVA glue, and all sorts of other things.
> More Brushes: My kit came with a 2 flat and 0 round. What other brushes will I need, and what in your opinion is a good brand to buy? Any set that covers all the basics? Although I am new to painting, I'd like something that will last me and be quality. They sell SoHo brushes in my local store, which look like they are great quality. Any users here?
This topic can get pretty involved. Brushes have a lifespan so if you're new to the hobby I wouldn't recommend dropping money on higher end Kolinsky brushes like W&N Series 7 or daVinci Maestro. For a new painter I recommend Winsor & Newton's University series and Army Painter's Wargamer brushes. The W&N University brushes are higher than average student quality acrylic brushes that can be abused. They're great for basecoating with thicker mixes. The Wargamer brushes are a cheap intro into real sable hair so you can get started at layering with thinned paints.
> Primers: This is a big ? for me --- Spray primers, basic black white and grey? Which ones, what brand, etc... Really unsure what is recommended here, as in a store there are so many, but hoping /r/minipainting can help as we are all painting the same stuff. Would love some specific product recommendations here.
For the most part, you have three options: spray cans, brush-on, and airbrush. I can't really recommend spray primers - they require ventilation, have trouble with humidity, and can only be sprayed at one consistency. Many of the hobby spray cans advertised for basing your minis aren't actual primers. Brush-on primers are the most economical but run the risk of losing detail on the mini if applied heavily. Airbrushing is my preferred method using either Mr. Hobby's Mr. Surfacer 1500 thinned with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner for highly detailed minis, or Vallejo Primer for tabletop quality minis. Vallejo Primer's are acrylic and polyurethane so they're more protective but can sometimes take away detail.
> Finish: I saw a few videos where they spray some 'protective' finish on a product, I believe there are matte finishes as well as gloss finishes? Can I get any 'matte/gloss finish' product, or are there certain ones for miniatures?
Same three options as priming. If your minis are going to be handled often, I recommend a glossy coat then a matte coat. Glossy varnishes are stronger than matte varnishes, so this combo will give you the most protection. You are more likely to lose some detail this way. If your minis are for display only you can skip the varnish and just be careful. Dried acrylics are basically thin plastic so they have some durability on their own. Brand-wise I airbrush using Liquitex Professional gloss and matte varnishes, thinned with Vallejo airbrush thinner and a drop or two of Vallejo flow-improver. Vallejo varnishes are also good but Liquitex offers the best bang for your buck.
> Mini Holders: I found this product which looks amazing, but is not available until late 2017 since the Kickstarter has ended. Are there any similar products that someone could recommend, or should I just go with something very simple? Would love to hear some ideas.
I use an old Citadel paint pot and white poster tack to stick to the bottom of the base. If you want to paint individual parts, heat the tip of a needle/pin with a lighter, press it gently into the glue joint of the mini (the hole will be hidden later), then press the other side of the needle into a wine cork or similar.
> Brush Care: I got a "masters" paste from a store that I was told to rinse and swirl my brushes in after painting. Any other tips or is this okay?
Master's is the best option, just make sure you follow the directions and use warm water for best results. You can also get a small bottle of W&N Brusher Cleaner and Restorer to have on reserve if you accidentally let paint dry on one of your better brushes. If it's a cheap or synthetic brush you can clean it with original Windex (WITHOUT Ammonia-D) or Vallejo airbrush cleaner, followed by a wash with Master's.
> Carving/Scraping tools: I know some minis need to be cut from a sheet and some have mold lines that need to be cleaned. How is this done and what tools are needed?
Get a decent pair of sprue cutters - I recommend these. You should be able to find these for $10 at a local hobby store. For plastic minis you should be fine with just an X-acto or similar knife for getting rid of mold lines - just run the blade mostly perpendicular to the line and "shave" it gently.
> Storage Box: For all the little things that come along with painting, what do you use/recommend to store everything in?
A coffee mug works fine as a brush holder. You can try a hardware store for all sorts of containers if you're traveling with paints. Otherwise desk space and some imagination (spice racks) or money (official paint stand) are all you need.
> Paint Agitators: I was told to get some steel balls and put them in every paint bottle I have. It's okay to leave them in there. Would these work, or any concerns?
Please do not use steel ball bearings. You can attempt to buy "marine grade" ball bearings but unless it's reputable and expensive they are still likely going to rust and ruin your paint. I use hematite beads for necklaces for my paints. 4mm for dropper bottles and 6mm for pots. You can get them cheaper at Michaels w/ a coupon and they're inert so they won't stain your paints.
> Flow Improver: Thoughts? I was told to mix this into my washes. How much should I add, one drop? Is this product okay, or is this only for airbrushing?
Flow improver is generally used for airbrushing to extend the drying time and prevent clogs. Fluid retarder in the form of actual art supply from W&N or Liquitex, Vallejo's Glaze Medium, or Games Workshop's Lahmian Medium are what you're looking for. These can all be used to turn a normal paint into a wash (heavy dilution), or can be used to extend drying time for wet blending (light dilution). I can't give you exact ratios as each paint company, each color, and the age of your paints will dictate that. Trial and error is the only method here.
One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is a wet palette. It will save you a lot of headache when learning to wet blend and will let you save mixed paints for many days. You can get one for cheap and use either the papers that come with it or kitchen parchment paper. Both will yield different results so play around with both. Be sure to use distilled water or you're likely to get some funk from mold after a couple days.
The Ames Lettering Guide helped me when I was practicing my lettering to be a draftsman.
The best way I know how is to start by masking the trees with a masking fluid like this one and then painting the background first (you can drag your horizon line all the way over the dry masking fluid so it looks more continuous). Then you take up the masking fluid with something like a rubber pick-up block like this. And then paint in your trees at the end. I also prefer this way so that if I'm trying to do a flat or gradient in the sky or ground, I can assure that the gradient or flat wash is the same all the way across the paper easier.
Otherwise, the way you've done it works fine if you've got a steady hand and good pencil guides. You could also potentially start with the background and just leave the tree spots empty to start (requiring a good pre-sketch) but you can run into the same troubles with wonky, not quite lining up horizon lines.
I don't think your piece looks all that silly. I like the color scheme you've got going.
One thing I just thought of, if you continue to do without masking fluid for now, consider a bit of the principles of atmospheric perspective and that things farther away from the viewer generally get lighter and lower contrast. Part of what draws the eye to the horizon line so much and highlights the fact that it doesn't match up quite right is that it's one of the areas of highest contrast. Either make that blue lighter as you get closer to the horizon line, or the purple sky darker as you move towards it to draw the attention to other parts of the scene instead.
watercolors LINK
we starting to use it in art schools and continue to use them in art academy. they really are good. no need to dig deeper in more expensive, pro watercolors.
fancy watercolors (i personally love them, but really, basically fo fun, mixed media) LINK
watercolor pad LINK
that's my choice. would highly recommend this producer, really great absorption, thick paper, different formats available. anyway, it's really good.
brushes is really very personal choice, depends on technic and such. I like this one LINK great for miniature work. You can look for some squirrel hair brushes in local store orLINK , they are good for starters and for wet painting.
EDIT. fanart sample where all those stuff used at once :P
Sharpie Oil-Based Paint Markers, Medium Point, Assorted Fashion Colors, 5-Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VQ9M04/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.VzPzbG1GFJPS
I always use these.
You can purchase it at most hobby/art stores like Hobby Lobby or Michael's. Here's a link to what I use on Amazon. If you read the reviews, some of the reviewers posted pics of how they used it in some of their art pieces. https://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Masking-Fluid-75ml/dp/B005P1ROEY/ref=sr_1_3?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1503581563&sr=1-3&keywords=masking+fluid
What a lovely idea! For me, it's been fun testing out materials and finding what I like to use. Depending on her media interests, here's what I'd recommend thinking about:
A Brush Pen (especially for cartooning on the go!):
http://www.amazon.com/Pentel-Pocket-Brush-Refills-GFKP3BPA/dp/B002LJRKN8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1448983878&sr=8-1&keywords=cartooning+brush
A Nice Brush:
http://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Kolinsky-Pointed-Brushes/dp/B0013E68TO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1448984196&sr=8-1&keywords=Windsor-Newton+Series+7+sable+%232
Some Ink:
http://www.amazon.com/Speedball-2-Ounce-India-Super-Black/dp/B0007ZJ8TM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1448983937&sr=8-3&keywords=ink+cartooning
A Brush Cleaner:
http://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0009RRT9Y/ref=pd_sim_201_12?ie=UTF8&dpID=512oIauSQjL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR149%2C160_&refRID=1J5XTFQ5TBWPSS5E39AV
An Ames Lettering Guide:
http://www.amazon.com/Alvin-Ames-Lettering-Guide-AL666/dp/B001DNAHRO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1448984324&sr=8-1&keywords=AMES+LETTERING+GUIDE
A copy of Making Comics by Scott McCloud (SO useful!):
http://www.amazon.com/Making-Comics-Storytelling-Secrets-Graphic/dp/0060780940/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1448984007&sr=8-13&keywords=cartooning
I’m on my second master compressor. I upgraded last week to one with a tank. The master brand of compressors are decent for beginners.
I’m not a fan of the actual airbrush they come with and upgraded that early on.
I’m also not familiar with the paints listed in that link.
I second the suggestion to find one without the paints and pick up something from vallejo. Vallejo has two lines of air brush paint and both are decent. They offer different colors in each. You can also get citadel/games workshop brand air paint but I’m not a fan of the bottles they come in. Plus they tend to be more expensive.
While the accessories in the one you linked are nice to have, he can get away without having them. I mix my paints in the airbrush so I don’t need cups or mixing sticks. You could check out the one below which is the compressor with tank and a basic airbrush.
Master Airbrush Cool Runner II Dual Fan Air Tank Compressor System Kit with a Pro Set G222 Gravity Airbrush Kit with 3 Tips 0.2, 0.3 & 0.5 mm - Hose, Holder, How-to Guide - Hobby, Auto, Cake, Tattoo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KSQHB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YWP3DbEJ9QG39
I recommend getting this to air in cleaning the airbrush.
4 SET Airbrush Spray Gun Wash Cleaning Tools Needle Nozzle Brush Glass Cleaning Pot Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0154HN2NA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sYP3Db0DV1NXC
I really like this writeup as a jumping point for learning how to lube. There's also lots of helpful info in the comments, or you could just ask questions there. If you're looking for a specific video guide I'd recommend Krelbit's; IIRC he uses 3204 in it but the process is the same.
As for brushes, I like this pack from amazon. There's one in there that's the exact size of an MX bottom housing slider rail which is nice, but it also includes a bunch of smaller ones. Brush size is a preference thing so it's best to test a bunch IMO.
Speaking of testing, experimentation is SUPER important with lubing. Everyone has different preferences so it's good to try different amounts of lube on a few switches to see what it feels like. I'd recommend at least intentionally overlubing one switch to see what it feels like, then trying different combinations of lubing certain spots and not lubing others. e.g. I prefer to only lube my stems.
edit: Here's one specifically using 205g0: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5y5KoRFWXe8
Sure, this is the compressor, though I got it for much cheaper :
https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Portable-Airbrush-Compressor-Tankless/dp/B004KNBVM4/ref=pd_lpo_201_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NWSYXNWF47C4ZZKDSX4H
And I started with one of these cheaper "master" brand air brush :
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-Purpose-Dual-Action-Professional/dp/B002KJDXHQ/ref=sr_1_218?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1484064056&sr=1-218&keywords=badger+air-brush
Mine kept clogging though and I thought it was because I wasn't cleaning it enough, but really I was just a noob and wasn't thinning the paint enough. I followed all these complicated fucking guides on how to make my paint thinner and what to mix with it, and what to clean it with. Turns out the easiest solution was just straight dollar store rubbing alcohol. I ended up buying a nicer badger brush and havn't had any problem since, but I know the truth of it. I wasn't thinning down my paint, and when I was done, I wasn't cleaning it out with alcohol either.
Basically now when I want to change colors, I rinse out the cup, hit it with a paper towel to get out most of the paint, blast full blast with a full cup of water, easing on and off the needle action a few times during. Then I do a quarter cup of alcohol (I have a little cup thing I can spray it into so the alcohol fumes don't gas me out), again easing off and on the trigger to kind of work the action. Then I rinse it out once more and hit with paper towel again. Basically do the same thing to clean it when I am done.
Thank u :3
I don’t erase the guide lines, this drawing was done without an eraser or ruler. I’m trying to play with pencils’ tonality. As an example first I draw the outline with a HB, if I do some mistakes I go over it with B or press harder on the HB.
When I’m doing a non technical drawing and I need an outline I do a basic pencil sketch and the trace it.
The red pencil idea is good if u plan to process ur work digitally.
Also u can use different types of erasers, there are some that look like a pencil ( https://www.amazon.com/Faber-Castell-185698-Faber-Castel-Pencils/dp/B005M4LAUS ) or are soft like dough ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/Soft-Rubber-Kneaded-Eraser-Wipe-Highlight-Art-Sketch-Painting-Correction-Tools/233278662189?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item36507de62d:g:nGEAAOSwglJdHNfj )so u can mold it as u wish to get more precision.
Overall, with time u won’t need an eraser.
Here is the brush soap I'm talking about. It's invaluable for getting a good lifespan out of your nice brushes. If he's just rinsing with water, it won't take long before he's got enough built up acrylic in and around the ferrule to split the tip. This might be why he seems to go through them so fast. With the Master's, or maybe even the heavy duty stuff he might even be able to recover some of the brushes he thought were toast.
Rubbing alcohol - I have no idea! I think it does break down the colours but USE IT GENTLY because you can bleed right through paper if you're not careful. My mom showed me how to do this when I was young and just learning how to use Prismacolours.
Generally when needing to fill something with solid colours I'll use a circular motion for even coverage rather than line-shaped strokes, but yeah, that's basically the idea.
Currently the lighting on the picture is kind of undefined - you have shadows underneath things, but light plays in strange ways and reflected / refracted light also does weird stuff. This tutorial kinda explains things better than I can: http://theartcenter.blogspot.se/2010/03/sam-nielson-painting-process.html - Basically, you want to think about where your primary light source is, how the material you're colouring will interact with that light, and then the shape of what you're colouring. Rimlight is the white around the edges of say, Lugia's wings.
I will recommend these watercolour sets because I LOVE them: http://www.amazon.com/Pelikan-Color-Opaque-Watercolor-Set/dp/B00170ZSLS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462365768&sr=8-1&keywords=pelikan+watercolours Used them for years. They're student grade but I love how they work. Make sure you're using sturdy paper!
I am using these watercolours currently: http://www.amazon.com/color-Kuretake-picture-letter-Unleashed/dp/B001MPA6W4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462365862&sr=8-1&keywords=japanese+watercolours They're flipping fantastic, if not a bit more expensive.
LMK if you have more questions / need more clarification. :D
Thanks. I used a paint pen (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GOYAPQ/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1406745010&sr=1&keywords=paint+pen) and it worked pretty well.
A really quiet airbrush-compressor. We ran one of those in a shop i worked in and we never had any problems. http://www.amazon.com/Quiet-AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR-Regulator-FREE-HOSE/dp/B001BJFHAW
Without knowing the condition of the brushes/compressor, you can get a new compressor and brush for about the same price. Honestly starting out it would probably be more confusing to have all those brushes at your disposal instead of becoming proficient with one.
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Compressor with tank - $70
Badger 105 brush - - $78
Cleaning kit - $14
Total new (minus tax) - $162
Nope. Here's a link.
You're welcome! I appreciate that you're open to suggestions - it's easy to get attached to a plan. Since you seemed receptive I'm going to elaborate:
I ordered KD:M and then this Vallejo flesh tone set and this Vallejo basic colors set, which got me going. Like I said, i had to supplement with a lot of citadel paints from my LGS that ended up being frustrating, so I wish I had gotten some more saturated base colors in the beginning, maybe something like this, that comes with purples and oranges.
I am by no means a tiny figure painting expert, but I primed mine and then used thinned acrylics in layers (not quite drybrushing, but not far from it either).
This brush is a godsend for pilots: https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-BR7014-Wargamer-Brush/dp/B009CBC0PQ/ref=sr_1_1?srs=7513501011&ie=UTF8&qid=1479924643&sr=8-1&keywords=brush
And after you finish putting on paint, use an ink wash (i used Citadel Nuln Oil) to bring out extra texture/detail!
https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Face-Colors-Paint-8-Colors/dp/B000PHCPTM/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=flesh+tone+acrylic&qid=1568523918&sr=8-10
This is pretty much the cheap standard.
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Compressor-Regulator-Training/dp/B001BJFHAW/
There are a million repackaged versions of essentially that same compressor. The important part is that you get a regulator with a moisture trap or you'll end up with water in your paint.
Sorry, I tried to link it, but it didn’t work. Let me try again: here!
Also, looking at stuff on Amazon, would this be a decent kit to get started with? I'm sure the paints are fiarly useless but I've heard good things about the HP-CS and the the extra stuff seem to be a decent deal Vs. buying it all seperately?
Amazon bundle
I currently use kuretake watercolors with these brush pens and I think they’re pretty solid. It’s not a huge investment and I think they’re a good starter pack for casual water colorists.
I highly also recommend clipping your pages and having maybe a hair dryer handy so your pages don’t warp from getting too wet.
If you plan on doing any sort of precision work, or plan on leaving clean spaces under a wash (like for text), and this is your first foray into water color, then you'll probably want some masking fluid. You paint this over areas you don't want paint on so that when you're painting close to them, any paint that gets on these areas is repelled. You either peel or rub it off once the surrounding paint is dry. It's not a necessity, but it may make your life easier.
EDIT: Since this is your first time using watercolor, you might want to invest a weekend in tutorials on YouTube. Just search for something like, "beginner watercolor," "watercolor techniques," "watercolor basics," etc. You'll want to know about how to do things like stretching your paper, and basic painting methods. Watercolor is a really cool, fun medium. Lots of people hate it and say it's really difficult, but I've always enjoyed it because I think of it as a study in negative space, and realized that it's more subtractive than additive (my own terminology--I think). By that I mean, you need to think less about what to put on the paper, and more about what to leave off the paper.
Have fun!
I've been using the equivalent of this for three years: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Professional-Compressor-Primary/dp/B00EKT30JK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543307927&sr=8-3&keywords=Airbrush+kit+with+compressor Master and equivalent kits like this are the cheapest end of acceptable airbrushes, although enthusiasts will nudge you in the direction of higher end airbrushes made by Badger, Iwata, etc.
I've found that a simple kit like that is more than adequate for basecoating, lighting, shadows and varnishing. If you're going to buy an airbrush kit, the things you absolutely need are:
Dual-action gravity-fed airbrushes. Gravity feeds allow you to work with smaller amounts of paint and dual-action is mandatory for the extra control you get when doing smaller work.
A decent compressor. The kind pictured in that kit is a good start and there are variants with tanks. These compressors run well and run without maintenance just fine, but you need one of a good size. Never fall into the trap of buying an ultra-portable mini compressor used for cake decorating or nail art because they are too small and tend to overheat.
In my opinion, the compressor is actually more important than your choice of airbrush because if your airbrush fails, you can just buy another one and screw it onto the hose. And having a weaker airbrush mostly means more cleaning and hassle, but won't necessarily make your product worse. Having a shitty compressor means you will always have shitty painting experiences.
It might not be a colored pencil. Might be an eraser pencil
https://www.amazon.com/Faber-Castell-185698-Faber-Castel-Pencils/dp/B005M4LAUS/ref=sr_1_4?
Thanks for the information! I never considered that the Iwata Ninja will pulse air as there is no collection tank.
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I thought of getting this cleaning kit and this cleaning solution.
Known as masking fluid.
I think they're a great starter kit. You get a wide variety of colors. The problem with them is that there are mixed opacities -- sometimes two colors right next to each other on the color wheel might be different. One green could be opaque, one could be transparent.
I used them exclusively as my travel palette until I started to build out my collection of professional colors.
My absolutely favorite "set" is the Kuretake Gansai Tambi set ($29 on Amazon). Keep in mind, these are Japanese style, so they will be richer in color, but I absolutely love how brilliant everything is. This was definitely my workhorse at home while I was building out my professionals... but truth be told, sometimes I still go back to these because I love them so much.
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EDIT: Adding some links to works myself and my sister-in-law have done with them, so you can see the richness.
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I use a brush called "The Psycho"
https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Wargamer-Brush-Psycho/dp/B009CBC0PQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491323909&sr=8-1&keywords=army+painter+psycho
I know it's probably more difficult to just hand-paint all of the small details, but I enjoy the precision practice, and whenever I paint it's with friends so I don't mind when it takes a while to get something done. I feel more accomplished getting it done by hand and exercising patience in the process.
I also use a slightly larger brush called "Insane Detail" for things that are small but would be too tedious with "The Psycho"
https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Wargamer-Brush-Insane/dp/B0027SAYW2/ref=pd_sim_21_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0027SAYW2&pd_rd_r=1AE9WPGVCPTFD2D47MBC&pd_rd_w=f6p0n&pd_rd_wg=V83HV&psc=1&refRID=1AE9WPGVCPTFD2D47MBC
You buy this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Brush-Cleaner-Restorer/dp/B005M4W1VK?th=1&psc=1
Works on oils and acrylic.
Glad to see you playing with your boyfriend. those are some nicely painted minis as well.
as for airbrushes, I just got into this myself so I'm no real expert but I was able to get a nice starter set from Amazon. the master airbrush set seems like a cheap, but quality series. here is a link to a starter set.
http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Professional-Airbrushing/dp/B006FQCBZK/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1374210946&sr=8-8&keywords=master+airbrush+compressor
or you could always just get the compressor and a brush separate, I would try to get one with a .3mm needle (out of .2, .3, and .5). as the .2 brush that come with that set seemed to get clogged for me (but that could just be from noobness and poor care).
sadly, I dont know too much about tables. I've just been using foldaway tables with felt on top.
as for the skaven Idea, most of the forgeworld stuff is awsome looking and makes a great centerpiece, but if you go play in tournaments or local clubs, most arn't entirely "legal" but I doubt many people would have too much problem playing against it.
and skaven do love their screaming bells. so that would be my recommendation, but only because I think it would find more use. the forgeworld Idea would be more of a nice surprise.
this is a lot of money for a birthday present, that's one lucky guy.
pm me or reply back to this if you want more info
I appreciate your comment, truly. I can somewhat relate to you, as I was very much into art back in High School, but quickly gave up on it due to anxiety and low self-esteem. There was a good ten-year hiatus before I began to pick the pencil up again this earlier this year.
I suggest starting small. I challenged myself to draw all 151 of the first generation of Pokemon on post-it notes. You can see some of them in my submission history if you're curious. It sounds silly, but that's what I had available to me at work, and I could usually spit one out after working on them on breaks and lunches. I tried to do one a day. The more I worked on them, the more I began to get my confidence back. Once they were done, I had an immense sense of fulfillment and accomplishment.
You don't have to do something that intense, but I found that setting smaller goals first, and seeing them through, was what helped, even if I wasn't pleased with some of the small things. It was only after these that I had the courage to try something bigger and more complex, like the helmets I've done.
Practically speaking, get yourself a few tools of the trade. I use a mix of .7 and .3 mechanical pencils, with HB graphite for the former and B lead for the latter. I also use eraser pencils to get fine erase lines for detail, and smudging sticks to blend.
Sorry. I know this was probably more word vomit than you may have expected or wanted. Your comment just struck a similar chord to my own experience. That said, just start small, and realize that all of the tiny mistakes you see in your work are mistakes that, for the most part, only you can see. Everyone else will just see a work of art, and enjoy it for what it is. Trust me. That was my largest hurdle. You can do it too.
Good luck. :)
I have the same problem I think. For me, it doesn't really flake off though, it kind of smears off. Also, it happens with some colors and not others — usually really pigmented ones. People say light layers help, but some colors seem impossible to me; Dahlia and Peacock Blue come to mind.
For a wax pencil, I personally prefer Derwent Coloursoft — the color stays where I put it, no matter how pigmented, and I'm not stuck with having to do light layers.
My favorite is Polychromos, which are oil-based. They're very high quality and not cheap, so after buying a lot of pencils, I went with the option to buy the 60 pack with a free sharpenert (works better than my hand crank one tbh) on Amazon, and got the individual colors I wanted from Dick Blick - the 60 pack comes with a booklet containing all of their colors, and there are swatches on the Dick Blick website, which made it easy.
Also, I just got the Arteza 60 pack gel pens which are around $20 and work really, really well. Gelly roll are considered top of the line, and although I have a set of their whites that I love and some colors, they're quite expensive, and the tip is very thick, so I prefer others for coloring most of the time.
Here are some things I always recommend to new colorists that will work with any brand —
Derwent burnishers, blenders, vinyl eraser and sharpener
Derwent electric eraser
Faber-Castel Eraser Pencils
[BTSKY cases] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BXZFNJI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6vaTAbHACFY0W) there are lots of other sizes/styles/materials, but I think the book style is the easiest way to organize pencils.
Use this stuff after each color change and when finished for the day. http://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Airbrush-Cleaner-16-Oz/dp/B003TJA0S6/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1453525091&sr=1-1&keywords=airbrush+cleaner
I dump the excess paint out then rinse with water quick before spraying some water through to get some more paint out. I dump the dirty water and spray some of this until no more color comes out. It works very well for me. 20-30 color changes so far with no problems at all. Good luck with your future painting!
You don't need airbrush cleaner, but it's cheap, lasts forever, and you'll want to have it around. You won't just use it to clean your airbrush, but anything you spill paint on, including yourself. It cuts through paint like nobodies business. So it's well worth keeping around.
I use GW paints and water them down with Airbrush Medium rather than water. Again, it's cheap and lasts freaking forever.
Pretty awesome. I use the sharpie oil based markers for my brass. They make a more opaque line that is easier to pick out from the pile or grass. I think they are a little wider than regular sharpies.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VQ9M04/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_euo7AbKJ5AM02
You can get a tankless one .
It runs near constantly and can heat up. They are not ideal, but can do the trick for small jobs. I tend to work on my models for an entire day once a week, so I have one with a 3L tank.
If you got the super cheapie one there for $60 you could get the Badger 105 and you would probably have a little bit left over.
There is also this one. It is cheaper, so I really can’t speak to it’s quality.
Great work especially for a first time job, what kind of ink did you use. you did a great job detailing this, you used a gold gundam marker right. You can use a q-tip and some isapropal alcohol to clean up the few smudges on it. Then again it adds to the weathering look as if it was discolored in re entry. This makes me want to try weathering on one of my Barbatos kits. The Barbatos has quickly become my favorite Mobile suit so have at least one each of the kits except for the high res. Then again the HGIBO has become my favorite line so I have at least one of each kit with the exception of color variants as I do not see the point.
Is this a 1/144 right?
He could use a little dusting thought, then again I should not be talking as I rarely dust stuff myself.
As for painting supplies, you can pick up set at Walmart for around 5-10 bucks. however you do want to get at least testors brand enamel paints. they are good paints that are reasonably priced for plastic model paints and very good.
You can get a testors hand paint set for around $10-15 bucks at Walmart that also comes with a single paint brush and a small bottle of brush cleaner. However, its not the best brush for detail work on gunpla as its meant more for car models. So you would still want to pick up a small pack of brushes from arts and crafts or party section. You do not need super expensive brushes to do good work. the most i have ever spent on a brush was about 8 bucks for this one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009CBC0PQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This brush's tip is the size of a ruler mark so it is great for lining a 1/144 scale kit.
What works insanely well is an adjustable small air compressor. You should take it outside though because it blows dust EVERYWHERE. Also make sure you start off with a low PSI, because something higher could damage parts! This is mine, it's relatively quiet and a BEAST!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BJFHAW/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_10?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB
I have this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00171BFKK/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_in_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1 on my 20 gallon Kobalt compressor from Lowes. http://imgur.com/gallery/JqUD8
Im not super familiar with a VL but it looks like its all there
Both is preferable. Doesn't hurt to double up. Either of which are relatively inexpensive. Depending on what compressor you are using, it is preferable to have a regulator that uses a 'closed' system rather than a 'bleed-through' system. The reg that comes with Iwata's SmartJet (like mine) uses a 'bleed-through' which meant that if you wanted lower than 40 PSI, the excess air was vented to get to the PSI you wanted so that meant that the compressor was constantly running even if you weren't actually spraying which could decrease your comps longevity. I've since replaced the reg with a closed system that contains all the air so now my comp shuts down once it reaches it's max PSI when not in active use.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00171BFKK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00
This is what I have currently installed.
I got this bundle of compressor and iwata HP-CS from amazon for just a bit over 300.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001BO4X8Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title
I've used it for priming, base coating and highlights for my tzeentch horrors so far and it's running fantastic at 20-25 psi.
I haven't used the paints it comes with but the cleaning pot, stir sticks and medicine cups for mixing the paint is a great added bonus!
I think it's cool you want to pick up a hobby your father had. It will be a nice reminder every time you pick up the gun.
I use this 100% for miniatures, and it works great!!
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Alright, here is the list I bought. It's a bit more than you want to spend, but this will ensure you can get going right away, and not be frustrated. I did a fair amount of research on different forums, sites, and youtube videos. If you want to know why I chose something, feel free to ask. I was going to bold the ones that you absolutely need, but I would say everything in the first set are a must.
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For the compressor, I keep mine at about 18-20 while doing miniatures and it's perfect.
I do 1 drop Improver, 5 drops thinner, and 6 drops primer and have perfect flow.
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Feel free to ask any questions! Good luck!
Hvstle
I'd imagine it would. You could use this regulator to get it down to 30psi to airbrush with using this regulator http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00171BFKK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B00171BFKK&linkCode=as2&tag=theplacrablo-21&linkId=B2UA7GBYXFXSCCFS
It's one I have attached to my compressor.
Badgers are great and I have a velocity and it's the best I've ever had (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0013NBQLA/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B0013NBQLA&linkCode=as2&tag=theplacrablo-21&linkId=JBYG4F6UTGNAA6PD), however it might be worth getting a cheaper one to learn with as they get broken easily because the needles and parts are so fine. So maybe pick one up like the iwata neo. That was my second one and the only reason I replace it was because I fucked it up in my ultrasonic cleaner by keeping part of it together.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00792I04U/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B00792I04U&linkCode=as2&tag=theplacrablo-21&linkId=ODKBVSRHLROHJ7KI
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004KNBVM4/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_3cR2Ab35KWJ6C do you think this compressor + the iwata neo cn will work?
Not that you're looking for advice or anything, but an easy way to add some real nice detail and durability to minis you actually use in play is to use what's called the "dip" method. Essentially you brush on or dip your mini into either a wood stain or special dip product like this
https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Quickshade-Miniature-Painting/dp/B004UVVTXM#customerReviews
The dark pigment works its way into the nooks and crannies of the mini, then dries and makes the details really pop. Then you spray a light coat of spray matte varnish on the mini which takes off the gloss from the dip.
Not only does this give your minis some added depth but the two layers also protect the paint so it doesn't scratch or flake off, making them way more robust in actual play. Plus it's super easy so you could do all your minis in just an hour or two. Just some friendly advice.
Fine tipped paint pen is your best option. The paint is pretty resilient so will show well into grinding.
You'll need a compressor as well.
https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Portable-Airbrush-Compressor-Tankless/dp/B004KNBVM4/ref=mp_s_a_1_9
I was just looking at that I believe Here. Seems to be a good kit since it comes with a compressor, can always get a nicer airbrush from Badger later if I need I suppose. Do you know if the cable for the compressor would be universal to use on a Badger? (I am assuming they would make this universal since it is probably a compressor/airbrush standard)
Just picked this one up and is easily my new favorite :http://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-BR7014-Wargamer-Brush/dp/B009CBC0PQ/ref=pd_sim_21_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31FVNPsPVVL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=01J1J8QXPE6VK2FXDEBP
otherwise I use this:
http://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Wargamer-Insane-Detail/dp/B0027SAYW2/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1465105608&sr=1-1&keywords=wargamer+insane+detail
It will probably be fine, but if you want to ensure that a signature is permanent, use a paint marker instead of a normal Sharpie. It's expensive, but it is guarantueed permanent. It uses an oil based paint instead of standard marker ink, and you'll never wipe that stuff off.
Why a laptop though? Seems like an odd thing to have someone sign.
Cheap too!
Sharpie 37371PP Oil-Based Paint Markers, Fine Point, Assorted Colors, 1 Blister Pack with 5 Markers, Total of 5 Markers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GOYAPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2LVrDb8KHKG84
I just got this about a month ago. I'm in love so far. Good kit to get you everything you need to start.
http://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-Airbrush-Compressor-Instructional-Quick-Connector/dp/B001BO4X8Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1396252600&sr=8-2&keywords=iwata+hp-cs
I bought a kit similar to this but with only 1 siphon fed dual action airbrush. I have little to complain about it.
This is what ill be saving up for first i think.
http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Professional-Airbrushing/dp/B006FQCBZK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=EA1E21Z4PQB5&coliid=I2UNQ6CNSGJS4R
I will use it for painting models mainly, but may look into starting designs for motorcycles and cars as well, this will give me everything i need all in one package
Well something like the little brushes and the pot in this bundle are handy. I have a cleaning pot like that one that usually doubles as a stand for the airbrush, too. Other than that, I don't have much else, besides consumables like pipettes and mixing cups.
Thanks for the input everyone, I think I'm going to go with the iwata hp-cs once I get the money. I found this bundle on amazon which comes with the iwata and compressor and seems like a pretty good deal. Thoughts?
I want to get an airbrush, wondering what would be the best to start with - in a video about airbrush the guy had one he labeled as "beginner" for ~100$, now I found one on ebay that goes for half that but doesn't have a compressor like the other one, I'm wondering if it'd still do the job...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FQCBZK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_jC1iDbZH3RHNJ
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.de%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F303154927748
actually that was the brand of paper I got
my paints are Japanese
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kuretake-Gansai-Japanese-Watercolour-Paints/dp/B001MPA6W4
I was watching this funny fake Prismacolor color pencil review, and found out about these eraser pencils ($~9.00) that would really help with my art/shading.
Thanks, good tip. Was planning on getting this from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Heartybay-10Pieces-Round-Pointed-Nylon/dp/B00V4EG6D6
I've recently gotten into painting Japanese watercolor postcards on etegami paper. Etegami painting is supposed to be a relaxing experience where clumsy is good. Plus, as postcards they're fun to mail to friends and family.
https://www.jetpens.com/Akashiya-Etegami-Postcard-Size-Paper-Gasen-Paper-Pack-of-10-Sheets/pd/4720
(You can get the size you need)
https://www.amazon.com/Kuretake-Picture-Letter-MC20-36V/dp/B001MPA6W4/
You're already on the right path and looking great. Base silver, mask and spray on top.
First thing stop using toothpaste, go to Micheals, Joanns, or hobby lobby and pick up some liquid latex masking fluid and silicone brushes. Having the right tools will make your job much easier.
https://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Masking-Fluid-75ml/dp/B005P1ROEY
https://www.amazon.com/MEEDEN-Artist-Professional-Silicone-Brushes/dp/B078XZ1WZ9/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=silicone+paintb+brush&qid=1568208585&s=office-products&sr=1-2-spell
The amount of control you'll get will just be so much better. and that masking fluid will last you a LONG time,
Then study the way paint chips on metal and boba's helmet. You want to make sure you're not just chipping down to bare metal, but in some places chipping down to the color underneath, this will give you some extra depth.
Last is give it a grime wash. Multiple ways to do that, youtube tutorials are your friend as you can see exactly what to do. I take a brown acrylic paint, mix a little black until I get a used motor oil color, then water it down a lot, like whole milk consistency. then I paint the entire helmet with it, let it dry, then lightly sand it off with 320 grit sand paper and repeat. It causes the grime to end up collecting in the recesses, I can control where I want it dirtier by not sanding as much in certain areas, and it scuffs up the paint a bit to give it a more worn in look. Note that your helmets will look cleaner in pictures than they will in person.
Here's some of my stuff for the look I end up with.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bvp2yROlKE3/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BvxcD9AHiCP/
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bvl7KVxnObg/
I understand. Well, there are many different styles of printing for you to choose from.
I cut my teeth on printing in 10th grade drafting class. We were expected to print legibly on blueprints in an architect style, so we spent countless hours just writing the alphabet. Same goes for boot camp. In boot camp we had to stand watch and keep a log. If the text was printed in anything less than perfect, we were punished. So we practiced and practiced and practiced.
Work on your letters. One by one. Over and over. Either buy some graphing paper for guidelines, or buy a ruler and an Ames Lettering Tool. Learn to use it and your letters will improve.
One thing to look at that hasn't been mentioned, I have one particular red sable brush (it's a Blick Masterstroke) that splits like that when it gets too much water in it (and has from day one).
If technique related fixes and brush soap don't get the job done, try picking up a liquid brush cleaner and see if that gets the job done.
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Professional-Compressor-Primary/dp/B00EKT30JK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549047922&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=master%2Bairbrush&dpPl=1&dpID=61tUsjMt1OL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1
Can some one give me input, preferably some one who owns this product, towards how it performs in their current usage and how it's been holding up. I'm trying to get into painting my gunplas but I dont wanma brake the bank on the airbrush kit, rather break the bank buying a gundam, other cheap recommendations are greatly appreciated.
I have this compressor, which I got as part of this kit. I'm only a beginner with the airbrush, but I highly recommend both. The compressor delivers a steady stream of air and doesn't heat up or make serious noise. I can easily use it at night without disturbing anybody even across the hall in my house.
Like OneWhoGeneralises said, GW's paints need to be thinned a lot. They're very thick for an airbrush to begin with, and tend to clot up even more as they dry out over time. I had a lot of trouble at first using mine without clogging up the airbrush. i can do it now, but mostly use Vallejo Air. I also found that Jay Adan video really helpful.
Just go on Amazon and grab yourself a Master’s Airbrush kit -> Airbrush Kit Its what I got and isnt bad. The compressor gets the job done and in December I will have had everything for a year.
Hope that helps with the airbrush decision making, make sure you post final product!
I recommend this one because it's cheap and gets the job done.
PointZero Portable Airbrush Air Compressor Tankless Oil-less 1/5 HP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004KNBVM4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_e6c3CbH2BCW5E
Can't you just add a secondary regulator downstream from the broken one? Then you can drop your 60 to 30 without worrying about the original.
That said, I have an older Badger and the regulator appears to do nothing until it is turned almost to the extreme end of its range-- sits at 80 psi until the last 1/2 turn, after which it drops right to where I need it.
https://www.amazon.ca/Gocheer-100-250V-Airbrush-Portable-Compressor/dp/B071J4M3X6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?crid=286UUYC9557Y8&keywords=airbrush+kit&qid=1556889282&refinements=p_85%3A5690392011&rnid=5690384011&rps=1&s=gateway&sprefix=+airbrush&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
This is what Im looking at atm
Some folks just tip the handle of the brush and use it to transfer (personally I think that's a bit of a mess but could work in a pinch). You could probably use toothpicks or cotton swabs just as well as you just need something...
You could use a good brush but you need to be careful to avoid getting paint in the ferrule as that can damage the brush and it ultimately probably isn't worth it when there's cheaper / safer options.
I'd say grab a few cheap brushes and sacrifice them to the paint pot gods. They're really helpful for basing (applying PVA glue), transferring paint to pallets, whatever.
Don't sacrifice a more expensive nylon or sable brush as you should be able to get a bunch of cheap nylon brushes for $5 or so:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V4EG6D6/ref=sxts_kp_bs_tr_lp_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=sg8RE&pf_rd_r=9305E087JXWVP7GH3QN6&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00V4EG6D6&pd_rd_w=LaPb9&pf_rd_i=brushes&pd_rd_r=630f9240-898b-4d16-8b7a-8d86041a5674&ie=UTF8&qid=1538679271&sr=1
They should! I've used that exact brand of white before.
You should also get a set of small tip paint brushes like these if you don't already have some.
Brush, in my humble opinion, is a musthave. You don't need anything fancy, don't you have some shitty old brushes at home? Any kind will do. Also I've seen people using another pen to load, it's a matter of preference. You dip one nib and load another with it, but you need to have two holders for that too...
For starters I would also reccomend getting one of these or these to help you with the guides. It's a boring chore so making it faster and more effective is a good way to motivate yourself actually do it :)
Lightbox is a nice overall thing to have for a calligrapher, but not an essential tool. You'll need about $40 to get one.
I can't comment on the more usual supplies since it seems like you're set, but I'm probably missing something so I'll let more knowledgeable people answer about that.
What do you need a compass for???
At this moment I'm using Kuretake 36 colour set. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001MPA6W4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_W0EBCb4TNW996
It sounds pretty easy, was it? Has the paint held up?
Were these the pens?
Sharpie 37371PP Oil-Based Paint Markers, Fine Point, Assorted Colors, 1 Blister Pack with 5 Markers, Total of 5 Markers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GOYAPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hyZBCb8WHEC48
Thinning your paint will help! I use a drying retarder to extend workability of the paint on a model.
https://www.amazon.com/Liquitex-Professional-Slow-Dri-Retarder-Effects/dp/B004M559I2/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1500388700&sr=1-1&keywords=paint+retarder
Also! Try using Shades! They'll really bring out the recesses of the models! If you're not comfortable with them, you can also try something like a dip! Very easy to do models quickly! (Thin it a bit with a mineral spirit, though.)
https://www.amazon.com/The-Army-Painter-Strong-Quick/dp/B004UVVTXM/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1500388817&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=quick+shade+army
Cheers!
Hey! I was in a similar situation a few months ago with around a $200 budget as well. Here's what I got:
Airbrush: Iwata Revolution - It's a great airbrush and is almost always on sale on Amazon for under $100. It's easy to use, easy to clean, and is solvent safe, meaning you can spray more than just acrylics.
Compressor: Master Airbrush - I wanted something with a tank on it because I didn't want it to run the entire time, and this one fit the bill. It's super quiet (I can even run it at night), and it comes with a moisture trap, which is super important. It also comes with a hose!
That brings everything to about $200, so there's not much wiggle room to fit other stuff in if you draw a hard line on your budget, but definitely consider:
Spray Booth: Master Airbrush- This thing is amazing. I love it. It's compact and super easy to use. It folds up super tidy and even has a button to retract the cord.
Cleaner: Iwata-Medea Airbrush Cleaner - comes in different sizes, but it's been wonderful when cleaning out my brush between paints or when I need to do my monthly field-strip.
Thinner, Retarder, and Flow Improver: Vallejo products!- I love the Vallejo Auxillaries. They're easy to use, pretty cheap, and widely available depending where you live.
I airbrush all my bodies. I basically have this setup. IWATA is a decent brand. It's amazing what you can do with airbrushing as opposed to rattle cans. ALSO note that the createx paint is good for lexan. It's flexible and won't chip. You may need 5 or more coats if you're going for a good covering.
You really get what you pay for on what rig you go with. You want a nice easy to clean gun, a good solid compressor, so you maximize your time painting and not pissing around cleaning, changing psi's, spattering, needle centering, spray patterns. Try not to cheap out on it. You won't be sorry. I also built an indoor spray booth for <$100. But that's for another post.
Here and Here is first body I did freehand. I use liquid mask by the gallon....
GOOD LUCK!
Is it worth getting an airbrush and air compressor? Would this air compressor and air brush be good? I've been interested in painting and building more complex kits and was wondering if I should make the investment.
When I took my architectural drafting course, we used this template to make lines in light pencil (which would be erased later):
http://www.amazon.com/Alvin-L666-Lettering-Guide-L-666/dp/B001DNAHRO
Masking fluid is this stuff that you paint over parts of your watercolor that you don't want to get painted. You rub it off your painting when you're done. I just started using it myself.
http://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Oil-Based-Markers-Assorted-1770459/dp/B003VQ9M04
It's an okay deal - the same set runs about 120 on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EKT30JK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TaZUAbW42VZ49.
What is your budget? I have used the master air brushes, but I found them to be very hard to use as a beginner. In my opinion, they are very temperamental. That said, they do get the job done. If you decide to pick it up, make sure to check it for bent needles and faulty o rings. One of the issues with the masters is the o ring they use. It deteriorates when you clean the brush with certain solvents.
So, you could start with this (this is what I started with, and while it tends to clog, it does the job):https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Dual-action-Compressor/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520958546&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=masters+airbrush
But if you want to dive in head first...I recommend the below:
https://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR-Airbrush-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520958546&amp;sr=8-12&amp;keywords=masters+airbrush
& https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Eclipse-Hp-Cs-W-Airhose/dp/B00695CY54/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520958642&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=iwata+hpcs
As for accessories - get yourself some m3 masks, gloves, medea airbrush cleaner https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Airbrush-Cleaner-16-Oz/dp/B003TJA0S6/ref=pd_sim_21_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B003TJA0S6&amp;pd_rd_r=ZNFGCQKPJZHMJ0HX1Y51&amp;pd_rd_w=sFOW8&amp;pd_rd_wg=8bTp7&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=ZNFGCQKPJZHMJ0HX1Y51, and one of these https://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-Cleaning-Needle-Nozzle-Holder/dp/B0154HN2NA/ref=pd_sim_21_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B0154HN2NA&amp;pd_rd_r=ZNFGCQKPJZHMJ0HX1Y51&amp;pd_rd_w=sFOW8&amp;pd_rd_wg=8bTp7&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=ZNFGCQKPJZHMJ0HX1Y51
Great idea. I literally got my first set of bumpers today and they're all black Diamond Pros. I may give this a shot. When you said oil based paint pens, would those be something like these?
https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Oil-Based-Markers-Assorted-Colors/dp/B000GOYAPQ/
I see a lot of people recommend this one
Yo! I'm no expert, but I'm related to one and I think I can help a little bit.
The basic essentials are a sprue clipper, a model knife, and sandpaper. The wiki has links to those.
As far as painting/lining, there are a lot of options. I 'm pretty lucky in that I already had an airbush and compressor at my disposal, but I've been getting a lot of mileage out of this entry level airbrush. I have two of my own (metallic and non-metallic paints), plus a bevy of nicer badgers/iwatas from my old man.
The real big thing with airbrushing is that you're gonna need a compressor to go with it, as well. Make sure it has a moisture trap, like this one, or things can go very wrong very fast. (That's actually the one I use).
As for paints, the ones my old man recommends are Tamiya acrylics and Model Masters enamels. With the acrylics, I just spray directly on the cleaned part, whereas with the enamels, I use enamel primer first, and let that set before spraying. That's the quick and dirty version of it, though, since actual airbrushing involves mixing paint with thinner, cleaning everything all the time, etc.
As for lining, I like to use Prismacolor lining pens, but that gets expensive fast since they tend to clog up and need to be replaced VERY quickly. Otherwise, gunpla markers (see wiki) are good, and I recently got recommended Tamiya liner, though they recommend only using it over gloss paints or it will be impossible to apply cleanly to mattes.
Anyway, until you get a better answer from a more experienced builder, I hope this helps!
I dont know what colors GW would have used, but the Vallejo face/skin tone set has a few options that should work, I've tried a couple of the darker tones on my Star Wars Legion rebels to good effect. Link is a bit long below, I'm on mobile and in a hurry so it's the first link I could find.
https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Face-Colors-Paint-8-Colors/dp/B000PHCPTM/ref=asc_df_B000PHCPTM/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=309765208504&amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=10430058833642169688&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9023889&amp;hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-436757734711&amp;psc=1&amp;tag=&amp;ref=&amp;adgrpid=60439471103&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvadid=309765208504&amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=10430058833642169688&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9023889&amp;hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-436757734711
I actually went to Amazon and looked at a few of their airbrush kits. Would you recommend something like this?
For the cleaning, is a kit like this + a cleaner bottle sufficient ?
https://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-Cleaning-Needle-Nozzle-Holder/dp/B0154HN2NA/ref=pd_sbs_201_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B0154HN2NA&amp;pd_rd_r=DZ25PQSDETTFJ34XKR7V&amp;pd_rd_w=I9Shh&amp;pd_rd_wg=KKqnH&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=DZ25PQSDETTFJ34XKR7V
I just went through this myself and am very happy with my purchases. This is a complete entry level set with the tools you will need to maintain it. Assuming you're US based, you could have everything Monday with Prime shipping.
This will allow you to setup a bare-bones station. You could also get a fume hood or just spray into a box in a well ventilated room. Get a good white led light (if you don't have on already) to illuminate your workspace and you're good to go.
Long post incoming....
So, I don't think I've seen many airbrush discounts. Badger did a nice promotion where you could buy any airbrush for $55 for their 55 year anniversary this summer, but other than that it's kind of hard to find discounts. As far as Prime Day, I doubt they're going to have discounts on airbrushes, that's a pretty niche product they don't really get into. If you want to get started with that, I'd do something like this:
You then need a cleaning pot, some cleaning fluid, and an airbrush hose All told, that's like $300.
Then you need paint, paint brushes, a hobby knife, super glue, a mini hand drill, some small drill bits, sprue cutters, basing materials (cork board, model railroad ballast, etc) and I find a pair of tweezers helpful. That could add up to another $200 in materials (and obviously can cost way more, paint is expensive). So of your $550 budget, you would then have $50 remaining for models... which will buy you one model kit. So if you're looking to get started for $550, I'd probably forget the airbrush for now, and just get paints that can be used with one later. I recommend Vallejo paints. The eyedropper bottles work great for airbrushing, and you can just thin them with water. I haven't met one yet that doesn't work. A paint set like this would set you up nicely for doing an Imperial Guard army.
As far as what army to play... Guard is fun, but if you like the modern military aesthetic, Space Marines might be more what you're after. The new Repulsor Executioner tanks look awesome, and the new Primaris marines are great looking models... some of the best GW has produced. The Guard kits are looking kinda... dated IMO.
Make sure you buy a hose if you buy a compressor without one (eg. if you buy used).
You will want to buy a respirator.
You can also jump-start his accessories list by including some cleaning supplies (spray-out pot, airbrush cleaner), as well as some paints/primer/topcoat (tamiya, mr color, vallejo, alclad ii, etc.).
I believe this can all be done with a budget of 300$ (assuming US). At this point, he could start spraying that day if he wanted.
EDIT: I use this Master Airbrush Compressor and the Iwata HP-CS airbrush. I've been happy with them so far, but I do wish I spent a little more on a compressor with a tank (as /u/7x13 recommends).
http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Professional-Airbrushing/dp/B006FQCBZK/ref=pd_sbs_ac_1
I got this as my first set about a week ago. I've only used it once, but it was easy to assemble and use.
I'm in Canada too and I just got into painting with the Reaper Bones kickstarter. Sorry in advance if this post sounds like a shill for Reaper stuff.
The Reaper online store has free shipping to Canada for orders over $35. Their prices are pretty reasonable, but they're in USD, so you'll suffer from the current crappy exchange rate.
They have a Learn to paint kit for $35 with 2 brushes and a small variety of paints which seems like a decent value.
Depending on what size brushes are in that kit, you might want to get a larger flat brush for base coats or a size 10/0 "super detail" brush. You can get brushes from Reaper or at a Michaels. I also grabbed a cheap pack of Mod Podge brushes that I don't care about wrecking.
Bones don't need priming, so I have no advice there.
I got this brush cleaner, I don't know if it's a good deal or not.
You can buy a paint palette, but you can also just use a plastic lid to get started, or make a wet palette -- easy and prevents your paints from drying out.
If there's a Games Workshop near you, you can get Citadel paints there. I ended up buying a couple of metallics and a brown wash. They come in pots, which aren't as convenient as dropper bottles.
Here are a couple of videos that helped me get started:
Also, like everyone else has said, check in at your local gaming/hobby shop :)
http://www.amazon.com/The-Army-Painter-Wargamer-Brush/dp/B009CBC0PQ
I purchased this guy for $64.82. It was an Open Box unit on the Amazon Warehouse Deals. Literally, still shrink wrapped, just in a different box. No damage. Usually a $200-250 air compressor. I was given my first airbrush (my daily driver) as payment during a commission. It is a Badger Patriot 105. I was intimidated by it for over a year and then I decided to jump head first one day and honestly, I haven't looked back. Only regret was not starting sooner. Amazon has the Badger Patriot 105 on sale for $75. At the beginning of the year Badger Airbrush company ran a Happy 54th Birthday Sale and I picked up the Badger Renegade Krome for $54 haha. It retails for $200-250 but Amazon has it on sale for $102. I have yet to use this guy yet, but I am nearing the end of a project and I am going to give it a whirl in a couple weekends. The Airbrush hose for the badgers are listed as well.
My Compressor:
Alternative Compressor 1
Alternative Compressor 2
My 1st Airbrush
My 2nd Airbrush
Compressor Hose
With that being said, you can find deals ALL OVER THE INTERNET....you just have to look for them. I am always scowering the web for the best deals possible haha. For the past 3 years I have been using a 5hp construction grade pancake compressor with a moisture trap. Let me tell you....I REGRET not upgrading to an airbrush compressor much sooner. The air is more consistent, you can fine tune the correct PSI and it is exponentially more quiet. I personally don't care about the tank feature, but that is a personal preference.
Hope this helps you all :D
-B
i use sharpie pens. Never had a problem.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VQ9M04/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
So, I have a smaller compressor at home for tools and the such, this guy
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N5UHK0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and I have attached an airbrush regulator with filter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00171BFKK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Will these work good for air assist? I rarely use the compressor and would love to make it more useful ;)
I was looking at the are these a good set to start with. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000PHCPTM/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
I got this one. It's a little more than I remember, but still under 100.
If you're buy an Airbrush Compressor it should have it included along with a water trap. Should Look Something like this.
The sharpie he is having a problem with is probably one of these Sharpie Oil Based Paint Markers. I don't think your idea to use spit would work, or that it's "super easy to get off glass".
The reason I suggested glass is because as far as I know that's what the LCD screen surface is made of. There might be a coating too.
Windex works similarly to lye. The ammonia dissolves in water to create ammonium hydroxide whereas the lye is sodium hydroxide. In both cases, the hydroxide deprotonates fatty acids, which makes them soluble in water.
Your idea to try nail polish remover (acetone) is a good idea.
I have this one and it works great, I've had no problems with at all and its been awesome to use especially since I was unsure about it and didn't want a bigger one with a tank. Granted I plan on buying one with a tank for the future, but starting out why not use that one your friend is offering
I really like the Sotar 20/20 I got. I watched a few reviews on YouTube before buying one.
At first, I got a cheap $80 kit that came with a brush and small compressor, just to test the water, but using them were a pain. The brush would clog often, the paint was applied inconsistently, and the compressor was hard to regulate due to not having a PSI indicator.
I'd recommend splurging on a good brush, like the 20/20. Watch a few video reviews to see what you like. Iwata brushes were also highly recommended. If you go to a physical store, like Hobby Lobby, you might be able to find a coupon or discount. I heard Hobby Lobby has coupons for up to 50% off some expensive items, but I got mine online via Amazon card financing.
I'd also highly recommend getting something like this to make connecting/disconnecting easier. It's a minor thing, but it's so convenient I can't go back to screwing/unscrewing the hose manually.
Besides that connector, here are the items I got. I've been very happy with them and actively trying to find excuses to use them more.
Interested in the lot, have airbrush and compressor, opened but never used.
Compressor
Airbrush
As others have said. The only difference between an airbrush compressor and a shop compressor is the water trap and max output pressure.
You can buy a water trap for £15 in the uk. Prolly equiv in US. That also has a pressure control switch and a gauge to ensure you keep the pressure at the 20psi or below that is usually needed for an airbrush.
But the water trap is about the most important bit. Without that as the air expands into the hose water condensation will build up messing up your paint royally.
This is the trap that came with my airbrush specific compressor.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00171BFKK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453719845&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=water+trap+airbrush&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=418p-7bshxL&amp;ref=plSrch
is this going to be an heavy hobby? like doing this a couple times a month? I bought this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EKT30JK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Alot of people will say the airbrushes included arent the best but Ill be honest. I had no issues using it for my first kit ever or my first paint job. This is what the results were for the body.
http://imgur.com/a/7XDaq
if you can invest in a better air gun and compressor that would probably be wiser if you plan to do this alot
This, and getting out of the hobby and won't need them, nor the cleaning kit and pot, the gloss top coat, or the air brush cleaner.
I would recommend a battalion as well as an army book.
As for painting, I found it immensely helpful to paint the figures before I clipped them out of their brackets. The only thing would would need to pay attention to there is that you will need to add a small dab of paint to the spot that was attached to the bracket and you will need to know what pieces you are going to use and which you are not going to use. This was useful for me because you have something to hold on to as you paint (especially when detailing). It also allows you to paint areas that would be immensely hard to paint with any degree of detail or accuracy if the piece was already assembled.
Cheap brushes sets with which to paint:
Set 1,
Set 2, Set 3
Cheap Detail Brush: Brush