(Part 3) Best car electronics accessories according to redditors
We found 3,439 Reddit comments discussing the best car electronics accessories. We ranked the 843 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
This is a very common problem. It actually happens nearly every time in a car when you hook the charger and the AUX cable up to the same device. I'm not sure why your post doesn't have the answer yet given that there are already 9 comments, but the easiest way to fix this is with an optoisolator. Here's one for the car. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031U1ATQ/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0015G2EZ2&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=19ZBRBAAJVPRFV1VREQ5
Just search for something similar with RCA jacks at the other end.
Here's another one that you could just put inline: http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLGI35T-8-Inch-Stereo-Isolator/dp/B004HJ35F2/ref=dp_cp_ob_e_title_4
And, if you feel like wasting a bunch of money, here's a monster branded one (note the 3rd review, BTW): http://www.amazon.com/Monster-MPC-ISM-201-XLN/dp/B0009RWKKM/ref=pd_cp_e_3
Same with my 03 Honda.
For a while I was using this thing that converted aux to a short range FM radio station you could tune to on your car radio. It kinda sucked tho.
Eventually I got one of these things (below) and installed it under my center console. It worked great and was total game changer.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H26468M?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details
I replaced these items in my 09 MCS, this is what I purchased:
Wire Harness - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EE1ZUSC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Antenna Adapter -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000329HEK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Double Din Mounting Kit -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006DA0S4E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
thats because the junior high dropouts at GM decided back in 2000 to incorporate a primitive bus system throughout their vehicles. this means that your factory radio doesnt turn on with regular +12v like most other vehicles. it turns on with a data signal from the vehicle BCM normally. to install any stereo in this car there is a stupid bus interface (chimebox) that is required. without it your radio wont turn on. there should be an ignition wire running toward your fusebox on the passenger side of the center console in front of passenger seat. its the same with saturns, GMC's, oldsmobiles, pontiacs, chevy's etc. so you CAN run a wire to fusebox however your vehicle may start giving you check engine lights, ABS brake lights, losing door chimes, and in some cases i shit you not (changing from english to spanish on the instrument cluster) or your speedometer not going further than 50 mph. yes the chimebox is expensive but it is so much worth it to not have to worry about any bs popping up.
https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-GM13SR-Select-Replacement-Interface/dp/B001TDKJU8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467076495&sr=8-1&keywords=gm13sr
https://www.amazon.com/Metra-40-CR10-Chrysler-Antenna-Adapter/dp/B0002BEQNE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467076532&sr=8-1&keywords=40+cr10
and a 99-3302 for a single din stereo or a 95-3302 for a double din screen stereo
If any of you want to do this for your own computer, it's pretty simple depending on the resources you have available.
Here's what you'll need (disclaimer, I hardly know electronics. If you notice something wrong correct me, please):
Instead of getting the wires and dupont connectors, you could also just buy a power button, cut off the wires, and solder them to the switches. This will probably be more cost effective. I recommend this power button, as it has a reset switch and both LEDs (and thus, wires for all of them).
Once you have the materials, it's just a matter of soldering the wires to the pins, really. The orientation of the wires doesn't matter for the switches (i.e. you can attach them to the power button pins on your motherboard in any order), but make sure you get the right order for the LEDs (positive is the long leg, usually). I'd recommend cutting the LED legs to size as well.
Also, if you need a resistor, what I did was just solder it to the LED leg and then to the wire. That's probably the worst way to go about that, but like I said, I don't know electronics well. I'm sure someone else has a better idea.
EDIT:
If you can't find a way to mount this on your case, you can always 3D print (or laser cut, or fashion using regular tools) a box for it, run the wires through it, and place it on your desk.
Buy this PAC interface, ive installed that model in three different 7th gen accords and it worked well in all of them.
There is a good amount of tutorials on how to install it on youtube.
I have done this on a 2017, which uses the same system and can be swapped out in the same fashion. There are a few caveats that may sway your decision however.
I used the iDatalink Maestro RR with the TO2 harness that allowed a very straight-forward installation with no modification to the factory wiring. This is not where this story ends, however.
The Maestro and harness kits do not come with the adapters required for factory USB, Aux (sort of), AM/FM radio, GPS, Satellite Radio, or any integration for the factory microphone. This last part is what has pained me the most in this whole thing, as I've yet to install the aftermarket microphone or make the attempts necessary to try to get the factory one working. I've got lots of wiring diagrams, but no free time.
I used this Axxess adapter for the factory USB. Fits perfectly, just plug into the radio and the factory connector. Wrap the radio USB end with TESA tape so it doesn't disconnect.
The antenna adapters for GPS and Satellite Radio are available from iDatalink as the ACC-SAT-TO2 kit. They should connect directly to the factory harnesses and then to the new radio, but if they don't work for you this is not required to be a specific iDatalink replacement so you may be able to find another brand that works.
I think I ordered the Metra 40-LX11 for the AM/FM radio antenna but I have yet to actually install it so I'm not 100% positive this will work. It says for select 08 and newer Toyota/Lexus vehicles and most Toyotas are fairly similar when it comes to these connectors. Especially given that the Entune radio available in the Corolla is the model used in other non-Corollas I'd imagine it's more likely to be compatible.
For auxiliary input, you do get the aux connection as RCAs, but you may need to invest in a female RCA to male 3.5mm adapter. Don't bother with the one that has red white AND yellow because it's only wired for red and white (audio). Something like this should work fine.
Oh and for actually installing the radio, just get this dash kit. Don't make my mistake and get the cheaper Metra one, it's not worth it.
I hope this is probably more than enough information to get you on the right track. Feel free to PM me if you have questions!
Typically it's just a dupont connector with 2.54 mm spacing (0.1") I bought connectors and 22awg wire off Amazon to extend mine. The only issue I had was the insulation was a bit too thick to get into the connectors, so I'd suggest 24awg.
References:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CGWVFWW/ref=pd_aw_fbt_328_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=02SBMEQQZTNX8JAX34V3
Couldn't find the sunkee male version so similar:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0132HFOYO/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr2_1?qid=1458671367&sr=8-1-fkmr2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=sunkee+dupont+male
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CO87S7O/ref=sr_ph_1?qid=1458671471&sr=sr-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dupont+4
There is a crimper, but needle nose pliers work fine. I soldered the wire to the connector, then crimped with pliers and inserted into the housing. Make sure you get stranded wire so if it's in an area with movement it won't break.
Doesn't come with an AUX input and does not play Bluetooth audio.
I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017RVHSSQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uAHtxbYT0TTKN
Echoing others comments, I rarely excessively speed. My detector gives me piece of mind. It gives you another "sense" being able to know a cop is up ahead. Many road-side disruptions (accident, construction) will have a cop car idled there, alerting me that I should be on alert.
I would personally recommend Escort Passport 9500ix Radar/Laser Detector (Blue Display) by Escort http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F0RPGG/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_r3s7tb0T5K5GT
I've gone though a few models and retrospectively I should have gone for the GPS equipped ones right away. It will learn all of the local "false alarms" (automatic doors, speed signs, etc.) and never bother you about them again. It's quite annoying to have to mute every time you drive by the same spot around town/on daily commute.
Here are the DuPonts
Here are the Female Connectors
and if you were making wires for breadboards, you'd need the Male Connectors
ground loop isolator
I was doing a ham radio project and all was well until I placed the radio on the charger and I got a crazy hum. Putting this inline resolved all the issues. Best $8 I've ever spent.
You need a 30 pin to Bluetooth converter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017RVHSSQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510246146&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=bluetooth+30+pin+adapter+audi&dpPl=1&dpID=41ED%2BB8VVtL&ref=plSrch
And then obviously pick a head unit. We've had good luck with the Kenwood DNX695S, which has navigation, wired android auto, apple car play, and plays DVDs. It looks like a lot of parts but the only wire connecting you'll need to do is with the various harnesses listed above, and there's good documentation on what goes where. Once you get your harness all connected up, everything just plugs right into your existing Toyota harnesses.
Get this and this splice the respective colored wires and you're done!
My experience has been a roulette. I've gone as far as buying the same [Bluetooth adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Bluetooth-Receiver-Calling-System/dp/B00NG78CJU/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp)
to use with my headphones. The old receiver that I bought before even knowing this problem existed (back in the lollipop days) works exactly as it should with my 6.0.1 devices. A newer receiver (same model number) that I bought a couple weeks ago does not, and experiences the same erratic volume levels as the sbh20 I was using before 6.0.1 came out. It seems aukey has changed the firmware in the receiver however since the newer model has voice prompts that tell you when it's powered on, pairing, connect,etc while the old receiver only beeps. I don't really know what to do at this point and am not interested in wasting anymore time/money trying to experiment what works and what doesn't when everything worked as it should on 5.1
Take a look at XCarLink. People on Audizine have used it.
You can easily get bluetooth streaming with your factory head unit using a CoolStream or Tune2Air 1000 (if you have the factory iPod cable) or Tune2Air 3000 (if you don't).
I'm assuming you don't have the navigation system since you said it's "very base". You need this. To install, you would need to crimp / solder the ends of the cables in your first picture to the matching color / function cable on the harness. Take a look at this short tutorial.
Take a look at the Wire Code Chart on that product page. The cables on the female plug should also be labeled. In 99% of cases, you would just match red to red, yellow to yellow, black to black, etc. But I personally confirm each color / function is the same (sometimes, there's an error).
From there, you would plug the Metra wiring harness to the black plug of your second picture. You can't plug it wrong - the connectors literally fit one way only.
As for your antenna, that little mini stethoscope looking thing is called a mini-style plug. You need an adapter like this. The male end of your current antenna lead goes to the female end of the adapter and then the male end of the adapter plugs into the female socket of the BOSS stereo. Crutchfield confirms that you may need that adapter (Product ID Metra 40-VW21, OEM male to Motorola female).
Here's two options:
A.)
sub and amp.
box.
Total: $166.03
B.)
amp and sub
wiring kit
Total: $209.79
I’ve been using this for 4 months now without any issues and I use an iPhone 6:
Bovee WMA3000B Wireless Bluetooth
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0131P6P5E?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
If you have a premium then no, you cannot with stock. If you have a premium plus you can, but I'm sure guides online can help with that. If you don't have it stock I found those Bluetooth Audi MMI iPod 30 pin connectors work well; specifically this is the one I use in my Audi A4 2013:
Bluetooth Adapter for Audi and Volkswagen iPod iPhone AMI Cable - CoolStream CarPro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017RVHSSQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aFONybWFCJFZG
Just make sure you have the Audi 30 pin MMI connector, as that one and most others don't have it included. Or if Bluetooth is too risky just get an MMI to Aux 1/8 connector.
$5 would have saved you a massive amount of headache and potentially money. Did you leave enough length on the harness to reconnect it? If you still have it?
Chances are quite high you blew fuses when cut the factory harness. It’s also quite possible you aren’t on the right wire or your connections aren’t as good as you think. Having chopped the factory harness you may be looking at more in labor as far as correcting your issue goes because now who ever will be working on it isn’t just doing a normal install they will be doing a hardwired install.
Sure, I will try to list everything here, most of what I got was from Amazon.
$107 HQST 100 Watt,12 Volt Solar Panel
$20 Charge Controller from Amazon
$90 1000W Power Inverter I went overkill for most on this, but I wanted to power a chainsaw if needed, otherwise you would only need to put in $37 for something really good
$11 Battery to inverter cables
$64 35AH 12V Deep Cycle Battery
$14 12V LED lights
$5 light wiring
$6 Switch
$38 Solar Panel Wires
$13 Battery Cables
$16 Conduit Pipe
$17 Unistrut
$13 For the Satellite Mount on eBay
Then figure $20 for various nuts an bolts.
So for me it came out to about $434, but considering that I paid high for my inverter, and over paid on cables/wire (you can use cheaper cables, but I went with the pre-set ones for convenience), you could do it for just over $350.
Transmitters sound like crap in my opinion. Sound is much clearer and louder with an aux in or Bluetooth connection.
Dash kit on Amazon
Wiring harness adapter on Amazon
Antenna cable adapter on Amazon
Don’t get an adapter that transmits to FM radio, the quality usually sucks.
https://www.amazon.com/Bovee-WMA3000B-Wireless-Interface-integration/dp/B0131P6P5E/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=bovee+wma3000b&qid=1572711514&sprefix=bovee+wm&sr=8-3
I use this, it treats the Bluetooth adapter as an iPod which allows you to use your steering wheel and radio controls with it
The 2013 has the ability to stream media from your phone over bluetooth. I'm not entirely certain, but from what I've read, the 2012 lacks that ability. You could always buy something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Aukey-Portable-Bluetooth-Streaming-BR-C2/dp/B00NG78CJU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1454104599&sr=1-1&keywords=aukey+br-c1
And plug it into the aux jack.
EDIT: Fixed the link.
The cheaper ones (in the $40 - $150 range) work okay, but they do throw a lot of false positives from my experience. I personally recommend the Escorts, but they can be very pricey ($300+).
I currently have an Escort Solo S3 which is arguably the best cordless radar detector available on the market today. Picks up radar pretty damn well, but due to it's design, it has decreased sensitivity to conserve battery life, less than the infamous Escort Passport 8500 series. Escort also has the Passport 9500ix model that can automatically detect and lock out false positives, and remembers them through the magical trickery of GPS. But, it will run you out about 600 bucks.
Just take note that while most good radar detectors will give you a pretty good advanced warning on regular radar, they will NOT protect you on laser or LIDAR. If you are hit with LIDAR, you're fucked. Although it's not impossible, it is just simply very difficult to pick up LIDAR, being a single beam of light that doesn't bounce off of objects compared to radar.
EDIT: grammar
The 9500ix is $260 on Amazon. Is this not what OP wanted?
Edit: Aside from it not technically being in the $300-350 price range?
Or you could just buy this.
That should be fine. It's possible to find it as a single cable too:
http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PCBL43FT6-Stereo-Y-Cable-Adapter/dp/B004G87FLY/ref=sr_1_16?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1369358512&sr=1-16
You may find you get a lot of hum or buzz, more than you do listening to the PC alone. This is probably caused by a difference in the ground between the PC and mixer. These sorts of devices can then be a very helpful addition:
http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLGI35T-8-Inch-Stereo-Isolator/dp/B004HJ35F2/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1369358835&sr=1-8&keywords=ground+loop+isolator
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-HEM-462-Eliminator-Audio-Integration/dp/B0042ZVZZ8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1369358647&sr=1-1&keywords=ground+loop+isolator
It'll work. Your factory radio's about a 1.5 DIN and that's a kit that adapts. Though, that pocket is gonna basically be useless. Also, yeah you'll wanna get that wiring harness adapter and that antenna adapter. I prefer this, this, and this specifically.
I bought a Bluetooth radio adapter, because my 02 is too old for bluetooth, and too new for a cassette player. I've been very pleased with it. I was on the verge of buying a new stereo just for the capability, but this has kept that want at bay.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DZKERVY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Totally worth the $15
This is what I have: http://amzn.com/B001F0RPGG
It's got GPS built in as well as TSR. It learns the signals you pass regularly and will "lock" out a signal if it goes off 3 times in the same spot with the same frequency (think sliding doors in stores)
It's a bit expensive, but it's saved my bacon a few times. It's given me 1 mile away warnings for radar detection in the past, which the one I had before was never able to do.
What you want to look for is a single din head unit.
Pioneer DEH-150MP Single DIN Car Stereo With MP3 Playback https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091V0A9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pvMHybMT2RYV9
Now depending on what else was ripped out of the car you may need a new wiring harness
Metra 70-1721 Wiring Harness for 1998-2005 Acura/Suzuki/Honda Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BF09S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_twMHybX5GZZK1
And a radio antenna adapter... I couldn't find this alone on Amazon. Here's a bundle with the wiring harness, antenna adapter and dash kit
HONDA ACCORD 1998 - 2002 DASH KIT + WIRE HARNESS + RADIO ANTENNA ADAPTER https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBF71DM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TxMHyb1RKAN9K
Hope this helped out.. any single din head unit will work I just took the first one I saw to show you.
I got this for my ‘16 R60. Works great for BT music and calls-
Bovee WMA3000B Wireless Bluetooth Music Interface Audio Adaptor for BMW iPod integration https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0131P6P5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_6ZW1QsFLcHh4L
Bluetooth Adapter for Audi and... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017RVHSSQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
New AMI MDI MMI Audi Apple Ipod... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XAZNAU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Like I said it's just color matching! On Crutchfield it says you need a [antenna adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/Metra-40-GM10-GM-Antenna-Adapter/dp/B0002BEQN4) but I personally am not 100% if you will need one. Then [here] (http://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-3300-95-04-Isuzu-Hombre/dp/B00029X1M8) is the dash kit. You will might have to use some of the factory pieces to install.
There are 3 different connectors that you'll have to hook up to the connector that comes with the head unit that plugs into the head unit itself. The other 3 connectors are VERY easy to install. 0 electrical engineering education, but common sense and the color coded instructions on the back of the packaging explains all you need to know.
Radio Antenna harness
Main connection (two main connectors that came out of the factory head unit)
USB Connector (if your car came with usb at the bottom right of the center console)
Should mention that the stock AUX connection won't function. You will have to run an extension from the back of the head unit to somewhere in your car. I routed mine to the left side of the passenger seat held up by this thing.
I don't use the microphone for bluetooth so that's not connected. I don't plan on using my head unit for displaying for any video sources so I didn't bother hooking up the hand brake bypass. The GPS antenna I just stuck to some metal plate that was inside the head unit cavity (pretty strong magnet and pretty accurate).
You may want to pick up a bracket like this. to fill in the rest of the head unit cavity along the sides. I'm not too sure if this is the exact one for the head unit. Crutchfield automatically told me what parts I would need to completely setup the head unit including the bracket and connectors. I couldn't find yours on the site so I can't tell you exactly which bracket to get. They're both Pioneer head units so it's worth a try. The bracket is a generic bracket made for most Toyota cavities to support double DIN sized head units. I had to do some slight Dremel work to get everything to line up with the stock mounting bracket. A solid afternoon with everything and I was set by the end of the day.
I had to contact OEM Audio Plus about how to get power to their amplifier because they have a replacement harness for the stock harness. But that's information that doesn't pertain to you unless you own their system with a subwoofer.
Tl;dr: Links 1-3 are what you need to connect everything. Link 4 is some random accessory I bought that happened to work things out. Link 5 is a bracket adapter to the stock bracket. Last link is the site that showed me all the stuff I needed and I just looked them all up on Amazon.
First, try plugging the power for your computer and Receiver in the same power outlet. If that doesn't work, then get a ground loop isolator. Here is an example:
http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLGI35T-8-Inch-Stereo-Isolator/dp/B004HJ35F2
You can get these with different types of connectors (RCA, 3.5mm, etc.).
I just used the metra 40-EU10 in my 08 a few months ago.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000329HEK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y16FxbV6FYDNT
I haven't had too many encounters since that incident, except for one. A vindictive ex accused me of hitting her when we broke up, just so she could see me get arrested and give me one last "fuck you". I was basically silent, there was no evidence whatsoever, no marks, nothing.
It went a lot smoother and faster (the arrest and the time I was detained before I bailed out), but I still got arrested and it took 2 continuances to get it dismissed because I had a shitty lawyer. I talked to another lawyer afterward and he said it should have never gotten that far. Plus, I still have that on my record, despite zero evidence and it being dismissed. I need to get that expunged once I get the money, I have no idea what kind of report is pulled when I go for, say, a job interview, which is kinda scary not knowing also.
The legal system is pretty fucked, if it's dismissed IMHO you're not guilty, at least that's what I was led to believe. The fact it (I'm guessing) still shows a "domestic assault" on my record until I get it expunged is disheartening.
These days I'm a pretty law abiding citizen, I can't remember the last time I got pulled over. I think because I don't travel out of state often, adhere (somewhat) to the speed limit, always use my blinkers and overall am a pretty cautious/courteous driver. It also helps to have a kick ass radar detector, lol.
Buy a single DIN aftermarket radio of your liking.
Buy a single DIN faceplate adapter like this.
Buy a wire harness that will plug into the factory radio connector like this. This will prevent you from hacking the factory wiring to connect it to the aftermarket radio harness.
It may require you to buy this adapter for the factory attenna connect into the aftermarket radio.
Install is pretty easy, search google for walkthroughs if you get stuck.
Does your car have steering wheel controls? If so, you'll lose that feature, there's ways to make it work but they're pricey.
This is very true, especially with many of the cheaper USB bluetooth dongles. My solution may be overkill, but I had one of those inverters to charge a laptop from the car, plugged the dongle into that and it eliminated 100% of the noise... which makes sense.
I believe the loop option is called a ground loop isolator.
(Example: https://www.amazon.com/ZIOCOM-Isolator-Eliminate-Buzzing-Completely/dp/B019FC6ZQQ)
I'm guessing this is it? That's for the Cobalt, and I can't imagine it would be any different for the Pursuit.
Looks like a euro style antenna connector. You can get an adapter like this to convert to a universal Motorola end that aftermarket radios use.
Metra 40-EU10 Antenna to Radio Adapter Cable for Select 2002-Up BMW/Volkswagen Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000329HEK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_L6OEDbEW885AV
I bought myself a bluetooth aux adapter and have it charging all the time with the usb adapter 12v outlet
bluetooth adapter
It pairs instantly when you start the car which is very nice too.
I hope this helps
If you're spending that much for a brake bleed kit, get an electric vacuum pump for ease. under $50 USD
vacuum pump
12v adapter
wires
I threw this together with the first 12v adapter I could find on amazon. If you want the run to pump better with more vacuum, get an adapter that pushes more than 2 amps. I have a 5 amp adapter and the pump runs like a top.
Metra 95-7522B Double DIN Dash... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ABTV4QE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Metra Electronics 40-HD10 Factory... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K4YOCG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Metra Electronics 70-7903 Wiring... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BEVXY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
caveat emptor
Really you should join a dedicated BMW forum (bimmerforums, Bimmerfest, etc) . I'm not knocking this sub, but the membership and years of postings there are going to get you a sizeable number of responses/info.
PAC AAI-HD3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H26468M
Works well, no issues on my 04.
This one works fine for me: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B019FC6ZQQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And here's the one the other guy mentioned:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01LX0H29W/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_opB0CbHJXRZGH
Yes. I think this one but if in doubt use crutchfield.com.
Your car is an E39 and you can probably get an Aux cable and DIY the project, here's a good link that shows how to do it.
You can get a bluetooth receiver with an aux cord - I'd recommend just getting one that will plug into an available USB so that you don't need to repeatedly charge it. Once your phone is paired, it will automatically pair with your phone every time you turn the car on.
Something like this Kinivo ($35) or this MPOW ($24) would fulfill that purpose.
Bingo thats it! This is the one i bought and it works great, you can also route the xm radio through it. PAC AAI-HD3 14-Pin Satellite or Cd Changer Auxiliary Input for Honda/Acura 2003-2012 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H26468M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_zXRNwbWCNJ317
Dont forget to buy a rca cable for the actual aux cord.
I felt the same way but I ended up buying this and it's actually pretty great:
FM Transmitter, Otium Bluetooth Wireless Radio Adapter Audio Receiver Stereo Music Tuner Modulator Car Kit with USB Charger, Hands Free Calling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DZKERVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_h1CJJygHqKNks
Hey! If you have a cassette player, you're gonna need an adapter which can be found here if not you dont need this! Make sure the measurements of the radio match up, it should fit most single/double din radios.
After that make sure to buy a wiring harness
And then get your radio!
Also this would help a bunch, be sure you have a 8mm socket ready.
Alpine SWA-12S4 BassLine Series 12" 4-ohm Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CE9682O/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_WLggvb16ZJVM7
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_777BB1221V/Sound-Ordnance-Bass-Bunker.html
Soundstream PN1.650D Class D 650w Monoblock Picasso Nano Series Subwoofer Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008L117RK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_QMggvb00WJSNJ
KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 8 Gauge Amp Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005IY3BI6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_hOggvb1872SWH
$80 box, 2 x $60 subs, $110 amp, $20 wiring, total $330. Way better quality components. Recommended the same box and subs to a different user on here and they love it!
Let me know if you have any more questions or need help :)
This one: http://www.amazon.com/Metra-40-EU10-Antenna-Volkswagen-Vehicles/dp/B000329HEK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426174861&sr=8-1&keywords=metra+40-eu10
Mine was a Bose as well. I'd highly encourage you to do the swap - modern radio features are pretty neat, and you can even put in something like this if you're feeling adventurous.
According to miata.net's audio page, the head units are all pretty similar - it seems the biggest difference is determining if you need to buy either this wiring harness or this one.
Both the head unit and the harness come with instructions on which wire carries which signal, so soldering them is simply connecting A to A. Honestly, the most difficult part of the swap I found was installing the mounting sleeve in my console - the unfinished metal edges dealt me more than a few cuts due to my stubborn refusal to protect my hands.
I spent a bit of time kicking myself for not photodocumenting the head unit installation, but ah well. There's no shortage of people willing to advise on the subject.
You can get a bluetooth adapter for your car and a wireless bluetooth remote button that has back, forward, up, down, play, and pause controls, and which allows you to wirelessly control your phone. There are no wires to run or really anything that takes more than 30 seconds to install. You can even put the remote button on your steering wheel. Then your phone can auto-play when you get in your car. The bluetooth adapter also includes a USB phone charger for if you want to charge your phone.
I also got a magnetic phone mount that goes in the CD slot, so I can just set my phone on the mount and use it for turn-by-turn navigation/GPS and the feature to tell me where I parked my car.
I did. The total cost for all three together was about $75, and all of this was in a mid-2000s Prius.
I have a 2005 MINI and installed this aux cord a few years ago. I plugged it into the correctly shaped spot in the back of the radio and it worked no problem. You press the mode button twice, and it switches to aux. It was a little tough to plug in; at first I thought it wasn't working, but it was just that I hadn't pushed it in all the way.
If you have done all that, then there is probably something else wrong and you might want to take it in.
A couple people have said they may want to try this in the future. Let me post some helpful info for you guys that helped me along the way:
First here is a very helpful image of the wiring for the stereo harness for my 2011 F150 XLT 4DR SuperCab (not super crew) 5.0L V8 with SYNC and with integrated factory radio (see first image in the imgur album linked at the top of this post):
http://imgur.com/0TGvfZj
As you can see, and as I've said a couple times in this post, there is no accessory wire. This is really useful to have as the stereo will know when to turn itself on/off when you insert/remove the key. This post:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1118879-2011-wiring-diagram.html
showed me where I could find the accessory wire in the ignition harness. This video is helpful:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0dM2d9UEtk
in showing how gain access to the ignition harnesses, and at 1:20, he'll unplug the main ignition harness that contained the purple/green accessory cable. Note in the link i posted with the wiring diagram, it shows the accessory wire being in a harness that contains two rows of pins, but I tapped into a purple/green accessory cable that was in a harness that only contained 1 row (see video).
This is the exact trim I purchased:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BG4NNQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
which came with mounting brackets (OEM mounting brackets did not fit my new stereo head unit) for the stereo as well as a face plate for the stereo.
I opted to NOT retain my SYNC, as I didn't see the benefit of it. My new stereo unit had bluetooth so there was no need to use sync. This:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4PJC9K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
helps maintain the VOL +/- as well as the Prev/Next buttons on the steering wheel. Sync buttons no longer do anything.
You will need this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEQNE?keywords=chrysler%202002%20antenna&qid=1453138917&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
which connects the stock FM/AM tuner radio antenna to your new radio. I used this backup cam:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005Q65ZIK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
which mounts on your license plate. Quick easy and cheap. I did purchase a wireless video transmitter, but it didnt work well, and just ended up running the video cable under the truck (was pretty easy with no lift too), through the firewall, under the steering wheel, and into the center dash. Hope this proves helpful to others!
I have a 2011 C250, does the C250 you are looking at have the aux jack in the glovebox?
I have a USB powered Bluetooth-to-aux streamer, got it from amazon for $20 or so, and it lives plugged in to a cigarette-to-USB adapter in the cigarette/12v plug also in the glovebox. I also have a line filter, because tehre was some whine when nothing was playing.
This is the bluetooth adapter: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0140QCYNU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the line filter: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004HJ35F2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H3RK5WQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479609733&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=american+bass+xo+12&dpPl=1&dpID=51WqzRc0KdL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I3LSH2G/ref=mp_s_a_1_35?ie=UTF8&qid=1479609646&sr=8-35&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=kicker+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=51u2wp-tqVL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005IY3BI6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479609861&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=knukonceptz+8+gauge&dpPl=1&dpID=51v-IV8NmXL&ref=plSrch
These and pick a box that works for your space..
First of all, more PICTURES!
So I saw a couple of other posts and got inspired. Mainly this one and this one.
I used wire and LEDs from amazon. 3 LEDs on each side.
And visor plugs and screws from ebay.
I wired the lights up to the switch as shown in the 2 other posts, which was really easy to do.
Then I wired the lights up through the trim.
I drilled holes in the plugs to fit the lights and put it all back together.
The pictures show some before and after, but I didn't have any pictures from night. The difference is huge, I can actually see in my car at night.
Yikes, never mind. Found them by searching, not sure why I couldn't find it til I made the post. For anyone who follows, I've found these on amazon :
housing : https://www.amazon.com/Phantom-2-54mm-Dupont-Connector-Housing/dp/B00CO87S7O/ref=lp_14034876011_1_1?srs=14034876011&ie=UTF8&qid=1485323427&sr=8-1
female connector: https://www.amazon.com/SUNKEE-Dupont-Jumper-Female-Connector/dp/B00CGWVFWW/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=02SBMEQQZTNX8JAX34V3&ref_=pd_aw_fbt_328_img_2
Cool Stream Car Pro is what I use. I like how it automatically picks up when I turn on the car. Quality is good. Switching through songs I can go previous and next. But, I don't see any track or artists names. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017RVHSSQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iY9HybD4BDRTA
First, no that wiring will not work for the 2008-11 Focus. you will need this one. Also as the other person stated you will need that dash kit, even if you only have a single DIN unit, you need that piece. Get yourself an antenna adapter as well here and yes it says Chysler, but it's the one for our car.
I purchased a Bluetooth FM transmitter for my car awhile back and it's usable. I'm not an audiophile, and if you're not too concerned about audio quality it's pretty nice. My father had borrowed my car for two weeks awhile back and really liked it, considering what it was. After the first week I mentioned it sort of cuts out some of the highs and lows and he was then able to notice it. Audiobooks and podcasts on he other hand sound just fine.
A second option, and what I did with my mini is to buy the aux-in cable and mount that. My 04 R53 had a 30 pin when I got it but wouldn’t work with adapters so I just took the radio out, unplugged that 30 pin cable from the back, plugged in an aux in, and wired it to my glove box. Now I have a tiny bluetooth adapter that lives in my glovebox.
It is super easy to get to the back of the radio. Took <1hr and like 10 screws. You can mount it anywhere but I like the look of not having cables visible.
I bought this one but there are definitely cheaper ones out there.
5 ch amp
Front Speakers
Subwoofer
Head Unit
Sub Box
HU Interface
Antenna adapter
Dash Kit
Amp install kit
This assumes you don't have bose or onstar, and if any of this is confusing I'd give Sonic Electronix or Crutchfield a call to make sure you get the right stuff for your head unit. I would bridge channels 1-4 into just your front speakers, leave the rear stock and powered by the hu for now.
The above is ~500. The next dollars I would spend would be for this
Subwoofer box is 10 inches high 12 inches deep so check for clearance
[these] (http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLGI35T-8-Inch-Stereo-Isolator/dp/B004HJ35F2/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405986076&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=ground+loop+isolator) are what I got. They're very cheaply made, but they worked for me. Bought two... one for the left channel and another for the right channel.
I used some from a motorola 26 pin connector. They look very similar to this.
Edit: Found some on amazon for a cheaper price
I have a 2011 135i with iDrive but without Bluetooth audio streaming. I bought this and it connects to the aux and USB in my center console. It works flawlessly for what I have.
Bovee WMA3000B Viseeo Tune2air Wireless Bluetooth Music Interface Adaptor for BMW iPod integration https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0131P6P5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PZk6xb5WZ27KA
Same thing with my parents' 2013 Honda CR-V. It may be a Honda/Acura issue, or just a common car stereo issue in general.
However, when I use my dedicated Bluetooth aux receiver, there is no lag.
As far as quality brands go, the only detachable touchscreen I can think of is the 4200nex at quite the premium. Not sure if any cheaper ones with a detachable face are out there. If you remove that requirement you can easily pick one up for less than $200.
Keep in mind you'll also need this, this, and this. You'll also lose steering wheel controls if you have them, so you'll need something like this just to keep them.
I'm really only looking for the Bluetooth/AUX connections. Will this work for that? Or is there a better solution?
A wiring harnesss like this? I didn't realize you had to wire each connection up to an after market stereo. Meh, shouldn't be that bad.
Am I better off just getting something like this?
You probably need some 2 conductor wire and a soldering iron. I would use a pretty thin gauge (high number) since the MQ172-3SA-CV(30) connector looks like it has really small tabs to connect to. If the insulation is too thick, you can try to trim the outside with an xacto knife. Of course, you want to keep insulation between the 2 conductors.
For example, 20 awg 2 conductor hookup wire. You can probably also find it at your local auto parts or hardware store.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016IH7JI4/ref=mp_s_a_1_20?qid=1466562514&amp;sr=8-20&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=skar+shallow+mount+subwoofer&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41ftIzPoFlL&amp;ref=plSrch.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IFEBQUG/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1466562591&amp;sr=8-6&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=ported+10+box&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41AtddEupOL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B005IY3BI6
The wire I showed you is 8 gauge but probably bigger than the 4 gauge other wire. This kit is a couple dollars more. But gonna be better quality. Especially the amp. Which will make a bigger difference than anything.
This may not be the cheapest option, but currently on my r53 I am running an aux kit from the back of my radio into the glove box and then I purchased a 5 foot aux cord so every one in the car can take a turn playing music.
Adaptor -https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000PA03AC/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8
Aux cord -
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B004LTEUDO
Then this should work for you
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PA03AC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4-hvxbNBS7943
That shouldn't be too difficult at all. The first one I did just took an hour or two.
The stereo will come with its half of the wiring harness. You'll need to buy the other half. For some stereo manufacturer/auto manufacturer combinations, there are ready made harnesses. For all others, you'll buy the vehicles side of the harness and either solder or crimp the two together. This saves you from having to cut into the factory wiring harness. This wiring harness may fit your vehicle.
I highly recommend soldering and heat shrinking the leads. Crimp connectors can fail, and a properly soldered joint is fairly permanent. If you've never soldered before, don't worry. This is a good project to learn on and there are plenty of good videos on the subject on YouTube. I have a butane powered soldering iron that I use on simple things like this because it heats up super quick and is portable because it doesn't have a power cord to worry about.
You'll also need the dash kit that the stereo will sit in inside the dash. This one might fit your vehicle. For that head unit, you're looking for a double din installation kit.
All in all, it's a great do-it-yourself job that can make you more comfortable working on your car.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H26468M/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ISQWZW4/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NWXSNRO/
Read the reviews on the first one, there's some good info there. It's basically the same thing as the link from honda-tech. I do not recommend the iSimple IS32 simply because it is an FM modulator. An FM modulator is certainly the easiest way to play your device in your car but the sound is lacking.
Just buy one of these.
Mpow Bluetooth 4.1 Receiver with Built-in Noise Isolator, Hands-Free Car Kits & Bluetooth Aux Car Adapter with Dual USB Car Charger & 3M Magnetic Mounting Base for Car Audio System (G-3 for MBR2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078TD6D72/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_df3tDb2S62T9Y
With this you will be able to convert your aux to a Bluetooth connection. I used one for years, and it worked well.
You can purchase a basic single DIN cd player with a dash kit and harness adapter.
Dash Kit: SCOSCHE MA1536B 2004-09 Mazda 3 Single DIN w/Pocket Install Dash Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007TJDD4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yWirDbRBWJGP4
Plug-in wiring harness: Metra Electronics 70-7903 Wiring Harness for 2001-Up Mazda Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BEVXY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MYirDbMX3S4XF
You can buy a radio from walmart or Electronic Express that are pretty reasonable. Best buy and Electronic Express can install them for you too. The downfall to changing to that set up is you lose clock control "possibly the whole LCD display above the radio" and steering wheel controls. If you don't mind that then this is a much less expensive alternative.
It's not hard at all. Just grab a two colored wiring harness and I believe the ring's plug harness has both a white and white grey stripe. Cut about 4" from the plug and from the base station input Match it up to your new two colored harness and away you go. Super simple! Something like this below>>>>>>>
https://www.amazon.com/RoadPro-Hardwire-Replacement-22-Gauge-Parallel/dp/B001JT1CEE
Best option for keeping your factory head unit is going with a universal Isimple. You will still need antenna adapters, found on amazon (forward and reverse for $5ech but if you have a best buy around you and you buy it from them the price includes install minus parts. Others have said go aftermarket which is a great option but it can cost significantly more especially if you have factory premium sound.
Will I need to do the wiring myself? I was under the impression the harness would connect the systems without anything like that.
Sweet!
My next question is, do you know the name of the connectors? it almost looks like this (Dupont connectors)
https://www.amazon.com/SUNKEE-Dupont-Jumper-Female-Connector/dp/B00CGWVFWW/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467660201&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=dupont+connector
Which I have a plethora of, but it doesn't seem to be the same. Have any insight?
If can judge the noise is caused by ground loop power supply ,I recommend this device to eliminate the noise ,I tried it ,it is cost less than $8 and it is very useful .
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B019FC6ZQQ
Yeah the escort passport 9500xi. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F0RPGG Does K, X, KA bands as well as laser. Also has GPS so it can tell you about known speed traps as well as red light cameras. This thing has saved my ass more times than I can count but also remember to not rely on it entirely. Sometimes cops don't leave their radar guns on all the time and only turn it on once you're in view and at that point you're screwed. But yeah, it's a must for any Camaro owner as I'm sure you're aware that this car does not want to go slow. Well worth the price as insurance rates only go up with points and tickets can be expensive, too
There's also ground loop isolators, what do you think of them?
http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLGI35T-8-Inch-Stereo-Isolator/dp/B004HJ35F2/ref=pd_sim_auto_18?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1M93G0HTVE1NX2EXVBE7
I got this awhile ago and it's works pretty well.
Get this
mpow streaming. This one has a battery built into it. The 2nd gens turn off their accesorry power when cranking, which confuses devices that auto on with power.
This one lets you start your nav/radio/w.e while your sitting with the key in and the ligts on, but not wasting gas ideling. Then you start up and go. It is annoying to turn every time though. It will auto turn off if you lose connection, but if your house is close to the driveway it might stay connected so it's a good habit to turn it off manually. It lets you play pause and skip though. I used velcro to stick it to the dash.
I used to have this one which i loved. But like i said, it didn't like the short power interruptions. Could have also been my phone getting confused but... w.e Now it's in my r53.
Ramps 1.4 Board - $19.99:
http://www.microcenter.com/product/442967/RAMPS_14_RepRapp_Arduino_Mega_Pololu_Shield_For_3D_printer_RepRap_Prusa_Mendel
Arduino Mega - $9.99:
http://www.microcenter.com/product/431995/Arduino_Mega_2560
4 Stepper Drivers - $12.99:
http://www.amazon.com/3D-CAM-StepStick-Electronics-Robotics/dp/B010MZ8SWO/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459314924&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=a4988&amp;refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
15 Jumpers (included with some ramps 1.4 boards) -
http://www.amazon.com/2-54mm-Standard-Computer-Jumper-100pack/dp/B00N552DWK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459314985&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=2.54mm+jumper
5 2 Pin Dupont Connectors -
http://www.amazon.com/Happy-Store-2-54mm-Connector-Housing/dp/B00CO86Z6Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459315118&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=dupont+connectors
2 4 Pin Dupont Connectors
http://www.amazon.com/Happy-Store-2-54mm-Connector-Housing/dp/B00CO87S7O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459315201&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=dupont+connector++1x4p
Dupont Pins:
http://www.amazon.com/Sunkee-Dupont-Jumper-Female-Connector/dp/B00CGWVFWW/ref=pd_bxgy_23_img_3?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1Q5X8BG6ZJG846F7B4D1
Dash kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-8249-Single-Double-Dash/dp/B016D9PI8K
Wiring Harness:
https://www.amazon.com/Axxess-AX-TYAMP2-SWC-Interface-2012-Up-Vehicles/dp/B01MG1X81P
Backup Camera Harness:
https://www.amazon.com/Axxess-AX-TOYCAM3-6V-Toyota-Back-Up-Camera/dp/B01N8UIX4A
AM/Fm adapter cable:
https://www.amazon.com/Metra-40-LX11-Antenna-Adaptor-Cable/dp/B003VYWSES
That it for parts, There is not much info on the 2017 Camry, but it looks like the stereo is the same as the 2016, if you could post a pic of the connectors I can make sure these parts are right. But these should be the correct parts.
Are you looking to go phone -> adapter -> car? If so, then I'd suggest looking for a 12V bluetooth to FM adapter that also has an aux output. Something like this should work. The FM bit usually has crappy quality, but the aux output is there and these are a lot more common than adapters with only aux. You do have to make sure that whichever plug you use cuts off with the car to avoid draining the battery. I think Japanese cars tend to have switched outlets, but my late 90's BMW kept the outlets powered all the time so I had to install a separate relay using signal from the radio to cut it on and off.
What year is your Audi?
Bluetooth Adapter for Audi and Volkswagen iPod iPhone AMI Cable – CoolStream CarPro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017RVHSSQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qiLuzbEKZDJ2W
This would take care of the not having audio Bluetooth available, I had one on my 2011 A4. Never failed.
I can't find the metra kit but this one looks better because the lights suck on the metra.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016BHLXPG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_NwAszbQW1CR2E
Wiring kit. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F4IQ9S/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_FyAszb0JBBCZX
Antenna adapter. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000329HEK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_wzAszbZ7H9B5C
Steering control
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B4PJC9K/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_SAAszbE43ZAKY
Googling around that seemed to be one of the possible issues.
I'm very ignorant when it comes to these things, but where would I attach this ground loop isolator? To the main AUX? The RCA? Or both?
Also, would this one work? https://www.amazon.it/Isolator-isolatore-eliminare-completamente-riproduzione/dp/B019FC6ZQQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
I got this usb harness and these things to get it to work. Plug and play harness. Excellent unit. Never realized how good the stock speakers in this car were, until I got a new headunit.
AXXESS AX-TOYUSB - USB-Auxilliary... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QF01H2E?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Metra 40-LX11 Antenna Adaptor... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VYWSES?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
And the beatsonic bh-1 harness kit
https://imgur.com/a/6vPuFgG
Hey OP, thanks for starting this thread and uploading your video to YouTube. Very helpful for my decision to order this. I'm trying to figure out if the antenna plug is "normal" or "mini." For most other head units, I've been recommended to get one of these adapters. Can you shed any light on this?
And if you get this harness, you won’t have to cut any of the stock wires harness
2nd opinion is
dash kit
Metra 99-5827B Double/Single DIN Radio Installation Kit for 2012-Up Ford Focus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MQEMJE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_talZCbWPK7JVZ
navy retention harness
Metra XSVI-5524-NAV Retention Harness Ford 11-Up https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F4IQ9S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zblZCbZVWRJA4
antenna adapter
Metra 40-EU10 Antenna to Radio Adapter Cable for Select 2002-Up BMW/Volkswagen Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000329HEK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tclZCbR6HBJ30
steering wheel interface
Metra Axxess ASWC-1 Universal Steering Wheel Control Interface https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B4PJC9K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hdlZCbQ0R4SGG
Xenyx 802 boards are not a USB audio interface. You would need to plug in your mic into ch1 or ch2, then if you just want to send you Mic input to your PC then you will need to take cable like this one (https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-153-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O3C) and plug it into your Main Out then the 3/4 end would plug into your microphone input on your PC.
You may want to use a ground loop isolator as well to ensure a clear and clean transfer of sound from the mixer to the PC. This is a good one (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HJ35F2/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1TOD2ZLXASPZE&amp;colid=CB045PGEL00J). I hope this helps :)
This really is the best solution but everyone has different needs. The sound quality is fantastic and my sub still carries bass with it.
Mpow Bluetooth 4.1 Receiver with Built-in Noise Isolator, Hands-Free Car Kits & Bluetooth Aux Car Adapter with Dual USB Car Charger & 3M Magnetic Mounting Base for Car Audio System (G-3 for MBR2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078TD6D72/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XpEWBbBMKD04J
I used this with my stock headunit. Worked pretty well. It's not 100% perfect sound quality, but it's close and it allows you to skip songs.
https://www.amazon.com/Transmitter-Otium-Bluetooth-Wireless-Modulator/dp/B01DZKERVY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1488305048&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=bluetooth+car+adapter&amp;psc=1
This might be an elaborate way of answering your first question, but mostly I wanted to write out my experience of doing this exact thing. Also apparently I need to split this up into 2 replies.
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I have an AVH-W4400NEX and a 2012 Prius Plug-In. After buying all the stuff I needed...
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I believe I set aside a Saturday afternoon to swap it out myself, and also install a dash cam with both front and rear cameras (the car already had backup camera built in). I ended up working on this through all of the weekend, and then did some more tweaks the following weekend.
I'm fairly certain audio streaming was not yet supported on the 2012 models. You'll need something like this to connect to the iPod adapter (for the AMI unit) in your glove box. If you don't have the one that came with the car, they're something like $20 online.
Does this budget include an amp? How about the enclosure?
If you're trying to do all of this for $150 (NEW) then something like this RF powered, loaded enclosure would probably be the best you can do. Wiring will be extra.
If your car has an aux jack, I recommend something like this - basically adds Bluetooth functionality to your car so you can both play music from your phone and talk on speakerphone
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078TD6D72/
Is your goal to use bluetooth headphones? If so you can use this device
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Receiver-Portable-Wireless-Calling/dp/B00NG78CJU/ref=sr_1_3?s=wireless&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1470668851&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=aukey+bluetooth+transmitter
Basically you plug it into the audio jack of the XD & it will transmit the devices sound over bluetooth, so instead of connecting to the XD you connect to the Aukey.
On the other hand if your goal is to use a bluetooth controller or something of that nature you can simply buy an OTG cable for USB support and use a wireless usb controller off of amazon. Something like this for example http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G6CLY0G/ref=twister_B00GGGNHPM?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
If you're adverse to getting a new controller, you'd just have to play with a wired PS3/PS4 controller through the OTG cable. On the other hand if you're an Xbox guy you can buy a wireless receiver for Xbox Controllers which you can plug in via OTG cable to the XD.
> should I be anticipating wiring the F770 in to the fuse panel?
Installing it is easy, hiding the wires is hard. How to Install a Dash Cam – Installation Guide
> Where would a product like the Cellink-B come into play?
I believe a Cell Link B will actually de-activate the Thinkware's F770's parking mode, but it can be installed. (I actually don't own the F770 so it is hard to say.)
> It seems like everyone kinda prefers the physical design of the DR650 more but it just doesn't have the same functional quality. You feel like thats pretty accurate?
DR650 slightly less video quality, but has an unique feature Cellphone notification (free service), and Cloud (paid service).
Cloud feature:
The Thinkware F770 focused on definitely getting the recording of a major accident, and slightly better video quality day/night/shadow. Dual save is a very nice way to ensure it recorded. Micro SD cards fail, and accidents send everything flying.
> Also, regarding the alerts from the cam. I'm also looking to purchase a radar detector and some of those units also have alerts for red-light cameras and speed cameras, etc...
People say the Valentine 1 ($495 USD) or get a ticket for radar detectors. However I heard the Escort Passport ($380 USD) is almost as good.
They both focused on different things. Valentine 1 has slightly greater range Front and Rear coverage. The Escort Passport has GPS memory, so it can filter out alarm systems/automatic doors ect, and radar waves are reflective for rear coverage.
> I don't need overlapping functions from the two different electronics and can you imagine all the aggravating voice/chime alerts? This is one thing that is kinda bothering me because between the dash cam, radar detector, and the navigation and music sounds from the stock truck gear it would be overwhelming. Can I disable enough of those redundant alerts to keep my sanity? (for example the vehicle I'm purchasing in a year or two has lane departure alerts built in, etc).
Yes you can disable different functions of all 3 dash cameras via a wifi cellphone app. The only one you can't do via app is the humble F50. It can be enabled/disabled, but requires you to hook it up to your computer. (Minor annoyance for changing settings.) However major annoyance if you are in an accident - You would have to pull the Micro SD card, run to like Kinkos, or run home make sure you have video, then you can view it, and print ect. - Having a wifi cell phone app is very much superior for viewing accident video at the scene, and slightly nicer for changing settings.
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Note that isn't my youtube channel, but I find their reviews very useful.
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H26468M/
I have a 2007 Accord EX-L as well, and I went this route. No complaints! I even installed a second AUX input system in my dad's 2003 Acura MDX because I knew he'd appreciate it, too.
I'm a fan of knukonceptz, there is nothing that beats them for the price and they are better than many much more expensive cables. For 500w, something like this 8 gauge 50A kit would work great, or perhaps this 4 gauge 80A kit to give you room to grow. Both of those kits are CCA(copper clad aluminum) which is lower power handling than OFC(oxygen free copper) If you really want room to grow Knukonceptz Kolussus OFC cable is the way to go, it's 2x the price as CCA, but 2x the power handing the 4 gauge OFC kit will do 150A with no problems.
Is this the harness adapter you're referring to? Sorry I'm new to all of this (I paid bestbuy to have all of my stuff put in originally) so I have a couple more questions.
Will that mini amplifier power all 4 speakers? I only see a L and R so my assumption is that it'll only work for 2 speakers. Also, how do I power the amp? Is that what the remaining wires coming out of the adapter that aren't for the speakers are for? Lastly, is attaching the wires to the amp as easy as stripping the wire and twisting it around the pins? Thank you again for your help.
The quickest way around this, if your stereo has an aux, is to buy a Bluetooth receiver. I use one and it’s great. It’s not stock but it gets the job done.
TaoTronics Bluetooth AUX Adapter, AptX Low Latency Bluetooth Receiver, 15 Hour Hands-Free Bluetooth Car kit, Wireless Audio Bluetooth 4.2 Car Adapter, Auto on Once Plugged to Power(CVC 6.0) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BLQ47MY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nU-LDbWNHT533
I've just bought Takstar 82 PRO and I'm liking them so far. However, I have an issue when I connect those headphones to my old Technics amplifier (SU-V550, from the 80's). I hear a constant white noise when no audio is playing. The white noise volume increase with the volume knob, it's not audible when I play mp3s or flac or during movies (and youtube). Didn't have this problem whith my and cheaper Sennheiser HD201.
How do I fix it? Is an headphone amp the only way?
edit: could something like This solve my issue? Or does it make the sound worse?
Your car should have an AMI port and an AMI cable. Look it up. You may need to buy the cable if it's missing. Then you can plug in an iPhone and keep it in the glove box which is where the AMI port most likely is. Or you can buy a Bluetooth adapter so you can stream from any Bluetooth device.
Everyone's going to have a different opinion on what to buy, but I'll take a stab...
Electronics:
Speakers:
There are 2 directions you can go here, active front stage, or passive with rear fill. I'm going to give you an active front stage setup with no rear speakers. Door drivers for this car are difficult due to the shallow mounting depth so I stuck with speakers that are less than 2.5" deep
Subwoofer:
Accessories:
Grand total: $1,200
If this is compatible with your car, get it. I bought for my 2014 f30 and it's a darn near perfect solution to the Bluetooth streaming problem.
Bovee WMA3000B Wireless Bluetooth Music Interface Audio Adaptor for BMW iPod integration https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0131P6P5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_q8LHzb869DD2X
Bovee WMA3000B Wireless Bluetooth Music Interface Audio Adaptor for BMW iPod integration https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0131P6P5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Wh0UAb7VVQJJY
I really hate iHeartMedia. They bought out all the good stations and replaced them with their blend of generic pop-rock. They're the reason I have my current custom setup in my car, because I got tired of the same songs over and over.
If you're sick of the same couple of ihateradio bands, you can do what I did and buy a bluetooth enabled FM receiver. It broadcasts music from your phone or TF card via a blank channel. It's great. I can upload the music I want to hear, or I can play spotify while I'm in the car without having to mess with the CD player or radio knob.
This is the model I have. link
I'm not personally familiar with the b8 series infotainment and what all it can control on the car, if it has a lot built in that isn't related specifically to the sound system then you likely won't be able to upgrade it. If it doesn't you can get replacements that support all of what you asked for. If it does a potentially easier option is to just get a bluetooth aux adapter:
https://smile.amazon.com/Mpow-Bluetooth-Receiver-Isolator-Hands-Free/dp/B078TD6D72/
and then there are lots of aftermarket less elegant but much cheaper backup camera options like this:
https://smile.amazon.com/Pruveeo-D700-7-Inch-Channel-Reversing/dp/B073WFJ7HV/
I just realized, what I'm looking for does exist: https://www.amazon.com/Bovee-WMA3000B-Bluetooth-Interface-integration/dp/B0131P6P5E
This works with the same interface BMW uses for the ipod integration, but instead does bluetooth. It even lets you browse your phones's music library on the idrive.
There's an OEM aux connector, but it may require you to have a more current OBC/MID software version. The part number is 82 11 0 149 390 and here's an Amazon example.
Three ideas in increasing order of complexity:
Do yourself a favor and get a reverse harness set from something like Metra. It'll break out the connections into bare wires in fairly standard color coding. Yellow is hot +12V, Red is switched +12V, Black is Ground, Blue is amp +12V, etc.
Metra Harness Set
Antenna Adapter
Yes, but only in hindsight!
You might also want to pick up spare pins, female ends, a crimper, and spare headers while you're at it.
Some Ribbon cable can also be useful...
I went through so many pins and headers trying to figure out the right way to crimp those bastards so they stayed put... "crimp" it.. put it in the header... give it a slight tug... cable comes out... grab a pin to lever the catch allowing the pin and female end to be removed, break catch in process, curse.. try again...
Oh well, they're cheap, and I bought a lot expecting to screw up. :)
I've just changed out my factory stereo with a new Alpine deck and couldn't have been happier on how easy it was. As long as you have the right wiring harness (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007KPRK6), dash adapter kit (http://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-6505-Dodge-98-UP-Pocket/dp/B0007WTFB6) and antenna adapter (http://www.amazon.com/Metra-40-CR10-Chrysler-Antenna-Adapter/dp/B0002BEQNE) then you'll be happy. You can buy all three from Amazon for less than $20.
Installation is a breeze too - stereo manufacturers have standardized on cable colors so hooking everything up to the harness was easy. To get the factory stereo out it takes popping out the vent with a screwdriver, 2 phillips head screws hold in the front fascia and then that pops out. 4 phillips head screws hold in the stereo and one 10mm nut on the back of the stereo. This pops out easy. Then you plug the new wiring harness in, plug the new antenna adapter in and screw the new stereo in the dash adapter back into the holes. Pop everything back into place and you should be good to go.
super_noodle has good points about the factory speakers - you definitely want to replace those as well. Super easy job as well as long as you have the right harness adapters (Amazon is a great place eh?)
Good luck and let me know if you need any more advice or assistance.
Most should work. I've seen people post that theirs would not for some reason though.
I bought this Aukey Bluetooth Receiver. Super cheap and works with existing headphones.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NG78CJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_FRGxwbB9BNQ9T
Um...that's exactly what I'm doing but you still need to connect the stereo harness with the adaptor harness since stereos have different input configurations.
This is what I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BF09S/ref=psdc_10981131_t1_B0007KK2G0
I know the amp isn't very good but I am going to deal with it. I just need to know what kind of wiring I need to hook it up to two subs and my receiver.
I was thinking this wiring kit may be able to work but I am unsure. http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B005IY3BI6/ref=pd_cp_e_2
http://m.imgur.com/2gMsiJZ
http://m.imgur.com/fryzTWz
Would this be a decent solution?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Transmitter-Wireless-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Smartphone/dp/B01DZKERVY/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479474857&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=cigarette+aux
I don't usually recommend PowerBass because they're a budget brand, but you have a budget and that's exactly what budget brands are perfect for - these will be pretty good for the money . May as well get the matching coaxials to round out your other pair.
this is an excellent 4-channel amp - and it has balanced inputs & signal sensing auto-engage so you don't need that line out converter thing. Even has a summed line out to drive your future subwoofer.
Then of course, an amp kit for power ... that gets you in under bucks with fairly good equipment.
What is the production date on your car? If it is 09/02 or later, you could buy this or make your own for a fraction of the price. I made my own for my E39 and it works just like it should. The potential downside is that it does not offer iPod integration, which would prohibit you from changing the songs through the steering wheel or head unit, and you would have to just change it on your phone. If you have an 09/02+ production date, the cost trade off is worth doing without the Grom or Dice.
I use the Grom in my E46 because the headunit software does not support aux in. Grom offers two different cables to connect your audio input device. The standard one has an aux-in and a female charging-only USB, and the other one has an iPod connector allowing for integration. I don't know about iPhone 5 though.
Bottom line, what do you want to do with your phone plugged in? Just the basic function of having music or full phone integration?
Here's the basic parts list to build a bucket like this:
Lots of this stuff can be had cheaper at a home improvement or pet store. Check around. You'll need a soldering iron (I like my adjustable 40w), a drill and drill bits up to 3/4" (I like step bits for work on plastic), a heatgun or lighter to shrink that heatshrink tubing. An infrared thermometer is nice to have and can tell you the temp of your nutrients, the plant itself, your lights, etc...Just make sure to calibrate it first, all the cheap ones are inaccurate by at least a few degrees.
Just a general radar detector.
http://amazon.com/Escort-Passport-9500ix-Detector-Display/dp/B001F0RPGG?sa-no-redirect=1
AUKEY Bluetooth Receiver, Portable Wireless Audio Receiver Car Kit with Hands-Free Calling for Home Stereos & Car Audio Systems https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NG78CJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AzAaBb11VSW48
prius doen't have bluetooth? i thought they were like the og smartcar.
i use this POS. it works fairly well, especially for the price.
mine is just like this but mine is rebranded as something else.
https://www.amazon.com/Transmitter-Otium-Bluetooth-Wireless-Modulator/dp/B01DZKERVY
You can buy a 3.5mm to Bluetooth adapter on Amazon they're only around $15-$25. I personally used this one back when I had an iPhone 7 it worked great in my opinion. Now I have an s8 but since I'm upgrading to a note 10 guess I'm going back to using it. Anyways this is the one I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07BLQ47MY/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile
From other posts in this thread it sounds like your headunit doesn't have Bluetooth media enabled.
In that instance, I would do what I used to do when I had a car that didn't have bluetooth at all --- use an adapter like this one. The downside is that car controls won't work, the upside is that the aptX in this will pair nicely with your Pixel and sound much better than a factory headunit would.
It doesn't. You can use the AMI cable to connect an iPhone in the glove box. You might need an adapter for the lightning cable. I got one of these for bluetooth streaming.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017RVHSSQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
These things might help: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004HJ35F2/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1404586418&amp;sr=8-7&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
> Ah ok, I think my 2010 model just missed out on Bluetooth audio.
You need this!
Worked great on my pre-lci E90.
No song names with android, but all steering wheel controls work. I just used tasker to automatically open up spotify and hit play when it sensed the cars bluetooth connection.
Found it! This comes with the cable that connects to the back of the radio, you'll just need an RCA to headphone jack cable to connect your device.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GD8627K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this is the harness i used, has the reverse 6v signal already to go. all you need us usb retention https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DJ4KVQ6/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
then the speaker harness. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEQJ8/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and lastly the antenna harness https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VYWSES/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
these were all the things i used to wire in my kenwood. besides the tool to keep steering wheel buttons https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J4W10XG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
the autoharnesshouse harness makes it easy to use the maestro by the way. hope this helped. i have a 2017 wrx by the way so i dont know if there is a difference with 2015 and the new 2018+s
My car only has aux as well. I still have a headphone jack but I wanted something automatic. I bought this mpow bt reciever and it works great. It auto pairs when you turn on the car (some need a button push). Also when it is paired I have it set to stay unlocked and go into android auto. Pretty slick!
We have a 2015 Countryman S as well. I picked this up after seeing some recommendations for it. A couple of those posts said they got track information, but we do not. My wife and I both use Android phones, so maybe an iOS device would send through the track information correctly. You end up with two Bluetooth connections but steering wheel controls work.
Thank you everyone I decided to get the Bluetooth adapter listed here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BLQ47MY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
If you have any opinion on it lmk
I have this snd it works flawlessly with my LG G6. Pricey though https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0131P6P5E/ref=mp_s_a_1_5/145-4873588-6804940?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521564023&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=tune2air&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41NyF164VrL&amp;ref=plSrch
Day old post, don't care.
I bought some Revision Desert Locust goggles off ebay for ~$30. Spent another $20 for a 25mm fan (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYNWUP4?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01), some 20ga wire (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JT1CEE?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01), and some on/off switches (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FH7WN2Y?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00).
I placed the fan to one side of the goggles (currently held in place with hot glue, but might "upgrade" to zip ties instead), ran the wires on top of the goggles (held in place with zip ties) to the on/off switch on the other side. Then ran wires to the back where I have a spare rechargeable battery held in place with velcro. Covering the battery up with the cover that came with the goggles.
That fan puts out 2.8 CFM with not a hole lot of noise, and at only 25mm, that's an astonishing amount of air!!! I haven't had a chance to try it out yet, but I will be this weekend. The on/off switch is to keep what little noise the fan puts out down, as with these goggles, I do not forsee needing the fan constantly on.
That's a good question. How do I check which profile is being using for my car? Can I change the profile?
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What baffles me is all functions of the phone (calls, podcasts, MP3s) work perfectly with my Jeep - just
not voicemail playback.
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I didn't mention this, but I've used a MPOW Bluetooth receiver (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078TD6D72/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for the last year and it works fine with the phone and the car speakers (via the AUX port).
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Thanks
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BLQ47MY/
I'm looking at something like this. There are a bunch of different ones to choose from but I would need it to be able to power the 900's bass, and I was also wondering if I could stick it right into the 900's headphone port since the cable is detachable. Also my car doesn't have bluetooth so I'd get some use out of it there too.
I can't vouch for it but this was one of the top amazon results. I simply searched for "bluetooth headphone receiver"...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NG78CJU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421159045&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40
Oh, what a drag! You can't put a new head unit in because of the combined climate controls? Lame, Subaru. Lame. There's no headphone jack cleverly hidden somewhere?
It's been a really long time since I used an FM transmitter (used to use one for a portable CD player. Yes, I'm old), but in my experience they were okay, as long as you found a nice, empty channel. It was a pain when traveling and your previously empty channel would suddenly be Hot Hits 97.5 or whatever and you had to mess around and find another one. Now again, I'm showing my age, because the one I had back in the day used analog wheels to tune and it had a gross one and a fine one. These days they're all digital. I found this guy on Amazon. It's listed as their best seller and it seems pretty inexpensive to at least try out.
Good luck getting your tunes sorted out!
This is gonna be the best decent setup you can buy.
Which will still leave you with about $140 for a custom built box.
There's a couple good things about this setup.The amp is made by Alpine. It will do rated power and will last awhile. And the subs are actually built somewhat well, considering the price.
This setup will sound better and hit much lower than those terminators, as long as you get the right box for them. 4-5 ft^3 and tuned to 30 hz. There is a reason half your budget is going towards a proper enclosure. The box will make or break your whole system. There's many people online that will design a box for you, if you're willing to build it yourself. If not, a local shop may do it, but expect to be paying around 200 bucks.
You might consider one of these type things:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DZKERVY/
I'm not sure if it's the same brand but I have one that looks identical, plugs into the cigarette lighter for power and you can use a little cable to plug it into the aux port. Then you can either sync your phone to it via Bluetooth, or load up your fav songs onto an SD card and leave it in there (I use it both ways.) It also has usb ports for charging your phone.