(Part 3) Best craft supplies & materials according to redditors
We found 3,900 Reddit comments discussing the best craft supplies & materials. We ranked the 2,016 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
Actually what he used was one of these http://www.amazon.com/Clear-Plastic-Acrylic-Fillable-Ornament/dp/B00AKF8U8O
I recognized it immediately since I use them for cosplay. But hey, responding to things with ignorant sarcasm is always a fun outlook on life.
Edit: They do come in larger sizes and I posted the first size I found while on mobile.
Amazon link to the mega tub because mega tub
Thermomorph Moldable Plastic Pellets - 17.6 Ounce Mega Tub
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3LAZ9O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0tDyzbDEVHFXH
Hi everyone! Here is the link to these Ecoline brush pens on Amazon.
The paper i'm using is here. It's super smooth and perfect for brush lettering.
The nail polish is Superchic Lacquer Trap Queen ($14).
Glass cutter tool.
it's a smart choice to start with cubone. drawing the marowak's will help your confidence as well.
from purely an artistic standpoint many earlier gen pokemon have more intuitive proportions than later designs. As you get more confident challenge yourself with a few of the more recent gen pokemon.
for ground, rock and reptilian shaped pokemon Toned Paper has really improved my sense of light and contrast in my work
There was a link in the youtube video description another commenter posted. This is the mold.
Edit: This is just the mold from the link the youtube video provided; /u/Morningxafter pointed out that this is likely the mold that was actually used.
Hi Igor,
I'm in Des Moines, Iowa but my Mom lives in the Twin Cities. I get up there from time to time. If you don't hear back from any Minnesotans, let me know.
This would be a fascinating adaptive engineering project!
I'm wondering if you could make an alginate cast of your hand in a comfortable position and then use that as a reference.
Then a shell could be designed and more than likely a mouse could be hacked apart and the buttons and sensors relocated inside the shell.
I'm teaching myself Fusion 360 and this would be a very interesting project. But I'll wait to see if there are more experienced people who may be near you.
Please keep us updated on your quest!
You might like these.
48 Rolls Washi Tape Set,Foil Gold Skinny Decorative Masking Washi Tapes,3MM Wide DIY Masking Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0782SBNBR?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Sure,
well theres three types of labels, printed cans( cant do anything with )
Wraps ( plastic that has a seam) you can cut these but you have to cut the seam and then snip the top and bottom ring area then it will flatten.
Adhesive labels. ( these work best)
I try to use the edge of an xacto knife or even a fingernail on a part of the label that i know ill maybe trim a hair off of anyway , so that it hides any crinkling.
there are a few companies that its just impossible to get the labels off of, some bottles like Founders, or cans like aslin, dont work well , usually bigger bottles work good though. Prairie works great. I recommend these magnet sheets,
https://www.amazon.com/Craftopia-Magnetic-Adhesive-Anything-Flexible/dp/B071L97W57/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525196048&sr=8-3&keywords=magnet+sheets
and i use xacto knives and a craft mat like this one, https://www.amazon.com/Alvin-Professional-Self-Healing-Cutting-GBM1218/dp/B0015AOIYI/ref=sr_1_4?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1525196109&sr=1-4&keywords=craft%2Bcutting%2Bmat&dpID=51gR%252BOrM3WL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch&th=1
so you dont cut through it to the table youre on etc, the key to making your cuts nice and clean is putting a good amount of pressure during your cut and cutting fairly slowly.
use a straight edge, use metal rulers, plan out the size of the label, peel it off the can or bottle and affix it adhesive side down on the adhesive side of the magnetic backing. then just square off your edges with cuts and bingo instant fridge magnet.
You can also do it with brewery stickers as well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D2TU76/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7MkzCb7FF1CTQ
I actually got it at my LYS. It came in a generic white box that says wool winder without a particular brand stated. I am pretty sure they sell the same/similar winders on amazon, though.
Here is a link to one I found on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00R7GGTCI/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1502738012&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=wool+winder&dpPl=1&dpID=41ep3AiS-tL&ref=plSrch
Cheaper to buy alginate on amazon instead of the molding kits. only down side is you need to pick out your own silicone.
The clone-a-willy molding powder bag is 3oz for $7.95.
The Alja-Safe Alginate I linked on amazon is 3lbs(48oz) for $26.13. That's equivalent to 16 bags of clone-a-willy molding powder bags.
Console/Mixer Marking Tape
These are doing well for me.
I agree with BoonSmith, get an Old-timer for a decent cheap starter. It is a pull carver though (whittler), not really a relief carver (push), yet has decent blades on it. Nice for the price! Bought one for my grand-nephew to get him going.
https://www.amazon.com/24OT-Splinter-Carvin-Traditional-Pocket/dp/B06XRDZ61M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1550579581&sr=8-2&keywords=oldtimer+carving+knife
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I'm a Flexcut fan myself and bought their's for traveling (use it quite bit).
https://www.amazon.com/Flexcut-Right-Handed-Multi-Tool-Woodcarving-JKN91/dp/B000ZUBDV0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1550579696&sr=8-2&keywords=flexcut+carving+knife
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I got this set as a gift, but after doing three projects and burning my fingers on the handle I'd recommend buying a tool like this where you can actually adjust the temperature. For more information and inspiration I'd recommend checking out /r/pyrography and good luck getting started.
It looks like tan toned sketch paper. You should be able to find both tan and gray toned sketch pads at your local art supply store. Example
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C7X7D3E/
If you want that shit to break on impact you need to score the bottle with a glass cutter. You know, one of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004YNNP/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_bs6zh_c_x_5_w/139-0216923-7062946?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=G2E4P4WMY1G0PS1X2ZSY&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=daa158e8-1d34-51d0-b958-18647c7872e9&pf_rd_i=12896601
Are you using duct tape on your pedals there? I'm definitely going to suggest getting some masking tape or even some console tape because duct tape has burned me too many times with its awful residue.
Being in the US, I don't know any local businesses in your area. I've always found glass shops to be extremely helpful. For the ones that are full -- ask them about other places to take classes. They'll even give you informal pointers if you ask.
I started many years ago without taking a single class. Today, there's probably tons of stuff on the internet, so it may not be necessary.
You'll need a glass cutter. I prefer the pistol grip type, but some people use this kind.
Then you'll need glass. If you can't get any near you, you can buy it online (don't know how much shipping is). Some glass is much easier to cut than other. Ask the salesman if you don't know.
I would get started by learning to cut glass. I'm sure there's a youtube video out there. Here's a page to get you started.
Then there's a lot of materials to buy: glass grinder, copper foil, soldering iron, solder, flux. And a lot of things to know, only a small percentage of which I do. Google is your friend.
we use this to punch holes in the tape we use for our son. Its the perfect size..
https://www.amazon.com/Ek-Tools-Tag-Punch-Classic/dp/B017JIPZZU
Toned Tan paper, White Conte pencil, and a mechanical pencil. Thanks so much.
Actually the one he used didn't look like that. You don't have to spend $30 on the mold for it. It looked like he used this instead. They're crazy cheap and work just as well.
If you use this punch tool with the tape, it cuts out a hole nearly the exact size of the sensor. I use it with a roll of opsite, it's awesome. Ek Tools Tag Punch Classic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017JIPZZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_XvRmxbHMQMP8V
I've been whittling for a few years now and used a few different knives but I always come back to the first I used: Flexcut Cutting Knife
The shape of the handle makes it extremely comfortable to use and the blade is very good quality. Another essential purchase for a beginner is a strop or some means of sharpening the blade. A dull blade makes the whole process painful.
Some people would recommend safety gloves and a thumb guard too. But in my opinion they're not necessary if you keep in mind where the blade is and where it's going, just keep the wood between you and the blade. Although I do sometimes tape a bit of rubber or paper to my thumb to make pushing the blade a bit less painful when working on harder wood like cherry.
A blade that I've really been considering buying is the Flexcut Carving Jack because I've read a lot of good reviews and it has all the essential blades, although it's expensive and probably more than a beginner needs.
Good luck with the carving. It's a great hooby to take up. Nothing better than sitting outside on a sunny day with a drink and whittling the afternoon away.
Loctite Glass Glue 2-Gram Tube (233841) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PSBBM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XmFDAbE43VH01
Would probably be able to find this at your local hardware store as well
Man you are fast. It's a plastic that is mouldable when over 100 degrees C and cools to solid. Like 3D printing without the printer or accuracy.
I bought Plastimake, but there are tonnes of versions like it on [Amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/Thermomorph-Moldable-Plastic-Pellets-17-8/dp/B00D3LAZ9O)
You can make flat panels/scarves and such on a round loom. All you do is not knit in the round, you would knit to the last peg and instead of connecting it to the first peg you would turn and knit back the opposite way.
Most of the people I know start with a set like this: https://www.amazon.com/Darice-Plastic-Knitting-11-inch-9-inch/dp/B001GAHFHY/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1541170279&sr=8-10&keywords=loom+knitting
That way you can make different size items more easily since it comes with different sized looms. I use the smallest to make socks/slippers and the largest to make panels for blankets. I started with a set like that, then bought some long rectangular looms, and also an infinity/afghan loom. I think the circle ones are a good starting point for people just getting into this. Double knitting with the rectangle looms is good for when you want something thicker and warmer, but you could also achieve that by using a thicker/chunkier yarn on a round loom.
Loomahat.com has a load of tutorials for casting on, using different stitches, fixing mistakes, and finishing a project. She also has a youtube channel with easy to follow guides.
Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions, I've been doing loom knitting for a decade now lol.
I have been very happy with Canson Marker Paper. Very transparent and thin for easily visible guidelines behind. Very little absorption so the ink sits on top, no feathering/bleeding. Cheap too. Not the best for a finished work, but it is wonderful for practice. I don't like how expensive and thick good watercolor paper is. Plus it seems to be fairly rough and gets fibers caught in the pen.
I am new to this though, so take it with a grain of salt. Today I have been working on this on the marker paper :)
Oh no, there goes my paycheck. I can't pass up a good deal on washi. This is a really cool set that I use for detailed work. It's really thin so you can do some unique things with it. Sticks well, too! If it's on an outer envelope, I usually hide the ends under a stamp or sticker just to be safe.
i used this tutorial for the scarves and a knitting loom like these for the hats. i used lion brand hometown USA for the yarn on all of them, they are easy to find for about $3 a skein from walmart. Hope this helps 😁
The Shur-tape linked below would be just fine- Pretty much anything sold as console tape should work well.
https://www.amazon.com/Shurtape-P-724-Console-Mixer-Marking/dp/B00CTWEY9K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499112407&sr=8-2&keywords=console+tape
There are plastic ones!
But I kinda like the idea to just having individual meeples hanging around the tree... even if they're small.
Flexcut Right-Handed Carvin' Jack, Folding Multi-Tool for Woodcarving, 4 1/4 inch Closed Length, 6 Blades Included (JKN91) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ZUBDV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ApLRDbCRCAX6V
I have owned two yarn winders before finding my true love. The first was from Knit Picks, it broke after seriously 3 balls. Knit Picks was pretty reasonable and gave me a full amount store credit. The second was some cheap-o off Amazon, which ended up teaching me about exposed gears eating yarn. Yeah, expensive LYS hanks got eaten. I cried and died a little on the inside. The Knitters Pride is amazing! Smooth turning, so far has lasted through rewinding all my stash plus it makes really even cakes.
For a swift I own Knit Picks it has lasted without issues.
Also, I travel a lot which means limited room for yarn/goodies so owning a winder helps me manage packing yarn up better for travel. Plus, once caked I can store more yarn at home too.
(Edit: To suggest winders are worth every penny)
I actually have about 20 of those things at home. They're glass balls that some people make christmas ornaments out of. http://www.amazon.com/Clear-Plastic-Acrylic-Fillable-Ornament/dp/B00AKF8U8O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1452280201&sr=8-3&keywords=acrylic+ball
This is the material used for the clone a willie mold portion. You can adjust the set time a little by adjusting the amount and temp of the water. It sets in about - 30 seconds. This box is enough to cover about half an adult body. I've made 3-4 clone kits in the past. Some things to look out for, if you're not circumcised the foreskin will most likely cause problems unless you can keep it fully retracted. The mold material can get between the foreskin and glans, this will cause pockets in the finished product and harbor bacteria. If you have any sort of curve at all, cut the mold tube for the curve. I don't have much of a curve but it has ruined molds because it puts me too close to the side of the tube and the mold is too thin, or breaks through. The rubber material is really hard, like the old style dildos. Some women find this uncomfortable. If I ever make another one, I want to do something like the modern real skin dildos. They have a hard rubber core with a softer silicone rubber outer layer so you get the rigidity for hard thrusting and the softness of skin. Unfortunately that requires a lot more time, material, molds and money. There ate also services that will bring you in and 3d scan your penis and custom build a dildo. It's significantly more expensive however.
1 X Alja-Safe Alginate 3-lb Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KVSU60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3FHKzbD3769MV
What kind of advice are you looking for? Most fursuits heads are made of foam or resin. The foam is generally carved using a electric knife or a serrated knife. It needs to have teeth. An alternative would be to use something like Varaform, It is not used in the fandom that iv seen. I would assume long term structural issues and the fact that its soft at 160F.
If you haven't already, get a styrofoam head from a place like hobby lobby to assist with modeling. If you plan to do this a lot, id spend money on an life sized bust from monster makers or some other place.
Also check out Apoxie Sculpt Its commonly used around the eyes on fursuits, and is easy to work with. One of the nice things is that early in the setting 30-40 min in you can dip your finger into water and smooth out most of the scratches and some lumps to give a smooth finish.
My daughter is that age and also loves to finger knit. She has the best luck (and the end product looks the nicest) with worsted or aran weight wool. Bulky is a little too much for her little fingers and the fingering/sport weight ends up looking like mesh.
My daughter regularly uses up the ends of my knitting cakes that are in colors she likes. She even stole one full hank of bright pinky-orange yarn. I would grab a yarn ball or two in colors that she likes. Check out Michaels or JoAnn's shops near you, both are having pretty big sales at the moment.
You may even consider something like a Zippy loom or a circular loom. Both work similarly to the finger knitting, so she should pick it up pretty quickly to make full size scarves and hats!
Or for $30 you can get one of these and make your own. Ek Tools Tag Punch Classic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017JIPZZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_e9pnybRNBC2MF
This is a good beginner kit: http://www.amazon.com/Walnut-Hollow-Deluxe-Woodburning-Kit/dp/B0019X78P2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1369851128&sr=8-7&keywords=walnut+hollow+burner
See my post here about the types of wood to use: http://www.reddit.com/r/Pyrography/comments/1d29gw/new_to_pyrography_what_wood_should_be_used/c9md6bj
I'd recommend redoing the wording using an epoxy modeling clay. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000V58DS0/
You'll have much nicer lines that way. Hot glue isn't really much good for creating a finished surface.
Dexcom used to fight me about using my arms/legs then i had my doctor put it in my notes that i should be using alternate sites and they haven't complained since. I also use this over the sensor adhesive: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001SIQCRI
i'm able to get 3-4 weeks out of each sensor now; i used to get some that would peel off after 3 days and the "good" ones would fail at day 10-11.
I use thisa punch to cut out a spot for the transmitter:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017JIPZZU
Sorry for late reply. This is the product I used:
https://www.amazon.com/Magic-Sculpt-Lb-Epoxy-Clay/dp/B003AL71FI
It's really nice to work with. It behaves a lot like porcelain, you can smooth with water or this special liquid they sell. It hardens in an hour, and can be sanded etc. it's rock hard when done and resemble porcelain.
So it's $5 for two rolls or you could go on Amazon and get 48 rolls of 3mm washi tape for $7.79 or 24 Rolls of 15mm Washi Tape for $10.95
Thanks! Glad you liked it.
As far as leather, this one I got from Amazon that worked out ok:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006UUHUDO/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here's a similar one:
http://www.amazon.com/Scrap-Leather-Brown-Cowhide-Piece/dp/B003TCARX6/ref=sr_1_22?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1410311581&sr=1-22&keywords=6oz+leather
This is a notebook made with the leather I got from Amazon: http://imgur.com/a/3ti5u
Honestly, if you're in the States, I'd recommend checking if there is a Tandy Leather or Hobby Lobby nearby. Tandy will have a much broader, more cost effective selection. Hobby Lobby will have similar pieces to what's linked to Amazon, but at least you'll be able to see it.
For getting rid of molded clothes, and so many other super useful things, I recommend owning a dremel, or other rotary tool.
You don't need a fancy one. I've got 3 dremel tools, of varying degrees of torque and power. One is identical to this one - only without the pet grooming branding. It's still a dremel - it'll still work.
Dremel 7300-PT 4.8V Pet Nail Grooming Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jF4xDb8CJPTXW
$30
I did find this guy for a super cheap price -
WEN 23006 Two-Speed Cordless Rotary Tool Kit with 10-Piece Accessory Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MSL9PW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4C4xDb9MG46FY
$12
Can't vouch for it being any good, given its price, but it should be compatible with the dremel rotary bits, and for a starter tool, and just working on dolls, it should be fine.
Whatever rotary you get, you'll need a few things to go with it. I recommend one or both of these -
Sanding drums
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BK1VRH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yJ4xDb738D61Y
Abrasive buffing wheels
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075C72PGK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NH4xDbCZ6DM5C
The buffing wheels are pretty good a removing tiny molded clothing details without eating up the plastic a lot.
If you ever do anything with apoxie-sculpt, the dremel can come in handy with grinding down things after its cured.
OH - and sand paper. Buy sand paper.
I recommend getting some 120 grit, 220 grit, and some 400 grit. You work your way from the lower, rougher paper, up to 400 to get a smooth finish. When you get up to 400, make sure you sand in circular motions to avoid leaving gouges in the plastic.
I bet! Mine looks similar to this and makes little center pull cakes you can stack.
Marrywindix Bobbin Winder Yarn Winder Table Clasp, Hand Operated Manual Wool Winder Holder for Swift Yarn Fiber Ball https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R7GGTCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xnjvDbN7GP0VX
This.
Walnut Hollow Deluxe Woodburning Kit by Walnut Hollow http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019X78P2/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_uvSttb1W8SKB6
Cutting glass is easier than you'd think. If you find a frame at a garage sale or something with decent glass that is bigger, chances are good you can cut the glass yourself! I just did the same thing today!
I used this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004YNNP/ref=twister_B01HKUG03S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I saw a tutorial where they used apoxie sculpting clay.
It’s this one here.
Well you can still use the notebook, it seems high quality and smooth paper and i don't see any bleeding. If you make the width between 2 lines your x-height, it will work out. A set of 6 lines would then be your guidelines for 1 rule of text. Here is a diagram, based of the scribblers ratio and slant. So just count your lines and add in the remaining guidelines and you're set to go.
(And don't mind my crappy, drawn in letters, again i'm not doing pointed-pen calligraphy.)
If you do want to use other paper in the future then cheap options are Laser printer paper, Marker paper or a Rhodia pad.
These are also smooth surfaced, bleedproof options. You want smooth paper, because your nib is less likely to get snagged or dig in the paper and tear it. Bleedproof, because your ink will stay put and not run out & ruin fine hairlines.
Finally, your nib is also an important factor in writing pointed-pen calligraphy. Each nib is different, some are more flexible than others. Take your nib out off the holder and see if you can find a brandname and number; from what i can see i think it's a Brause Steno 361 (I could be wrong). Other options are A Nikko G, a Nikko G Zebra, Hunt 512, Hunt 101 and 103 (both flexible but very delicate), Brausse 66EF (it's smaller and more flexible) and so many others. Everyone has their own favorite nib, so experiment if you have the chance. And do clean your nib when your finished with writing, then they'll last much longer, otherwise they'll corrode and rust.
That's all i can say, and much of it was picked up here on the subreddit or plucked of the internet. Have Fun!
I've got one of these and I like it a lot, but I recall paying only about $70 for it. Not sure why the price increased so dramatically over the last five years.
You should pick up some modeling epoxy. Very easy to work with, easy to paint, and it has a pretty long working time. It'll stick to anything but if you want it to be long lasting you can model it around hooks if you want a wood or plastic base.
https://www.amazon.com/Magic-Sculpt-Lb-Epoxy-Clay/dp/B003AL71FI
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Glass-Glue-2-Gram-233841/dp/B000PSBBM8
I would try this but I'm not speaking for experience. It claims to be heat and water resistant.
If you're using a mold made out of green stuff, and don't want to change method too much, I would suggest using magic-sculpt... same principal as green stuff except it has a lower viscosity, responds more drastically to water, and dries harder so it won't flex like the green stuff. I've used this instead of green stuff for decades... way cheaper
To throw out one that is not great, just so you know what to avoid -
I went real cheap with this one from Amazon and while it technically works, it's really not a pleasant experience. The little wire piece that you run the yarn through before it goes onto the actual winder part just doesn't stay put. It's collapsible and likes to collapse midway through all the time. Basically have to hold it in place with one hand and crank the thing with the other.
EDIT: Apparently it was my own silly user error! I did not realize how firmly I need to pull it out, until it clicks a second time to lock it in place. I retract my previous statement. That cheap winder works just fine in light of this new information!
I do! Amazon, I’m not sure which ones you’re referring to so here’s links to all three :) I used the fine liners this morning and they’re amazing!
Agutape 48 Rolls Washi Tape Set,Foil Gold Skinny Decorative Masking Washi Tapes,3MM Wide DIY Masking Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0782SBNBR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oxu7CbZFA718A
[36 Rolls] 0.5cm/ 0.2 inch Wide Colorful Washi Tapes Assorted Pure Colors, DIY Planner Craft Tape Paper Decor Scrapbooking Sticker Masking Paper Decoration, Gift Wrapping https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HYQQFH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Nxu7CbQBFQFJX
Washi Tape Set of 7 Rolls - Travel Planner Daily Life Diary Number Weather Week Date Notebooks Decorative DIY Japanese Masking Adhesive Sticky Paper Washi Tape Set (Width: 15mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GW8FG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cyu7CbXDNRRJN
No worries, I'm happy to answer any questions. The adhesive that the sensor comes with is ok, but it doesn't even last a full week for most people. I like to secure it with Opsite Flexifix. I'm still on the first roll I purchased back in 2015, make sure to get the one that is 4" across. I cut out a patch like this, except I use a tag punch to cut out the center hole (I got mine on ebay for $9). I also use [Patch Peelz] (https://pumppeelz.com/collections/patch-peelz) sometimes. Some people use GrifGrips or Rocktape. Lots of people swim and do all sorts of sports/ physical activity and the extra adhesive helps keep the Dexcom secure. I've heard of people who wear it on their arm using an additional arm band over the sensor/transmitter when playing contact sports to ensure it doesn't get knocked off.
Well, for what? :) The most famous in my kit at work is this silver spoon I use for crumble. It's small, like a child's spoon (not baby), has the handle attached to the side in a curly way that lets it stand up when I set it down. Curls right around the index finger. I'd chop it up into logical bits, then use the spoon to manage the pile and load onto PTFE tared on the scale, then quickly fold the corners together, make a funnel, and deliver the load into the jar. That spoon got me from 600 jars a shift to 1200 jars a shift. Found it on Ebay and won it at auction for $12. On desktop, not gonna search for a pic of it right now, but it's rad.
That spoon, the kitchen scraper, and a flat-bladed dab tool are about it...AH. Ready? THIS combined with what I call 'The Shovel'-- rightmost tool-- can move sugars and sauces at quite the rate too. That linked set, the kitchen scraper, the ear cleaning tool, and my silver spoon finally gained at 49 yrs old are my basic needed toolkit for concentrates.
And this chair.
I've never used E-Tape, nor did I ever see it used when I worked for a few production companies in the midwest... maybe its a regional thing? We always used actual "Board Tape" like this https://www.amazon.com/Shurtape-P-724-Console-Mixer-Marking/dp/B00CTWEY9K
Here you go. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KVSU60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_km5QBb3DGQ2QP
This is s product called aginate. You mix it with water 1:1 by volume and it sets into a semi solid gel. It's derived from sea weed, and is very safe. This is the sort of product used for dental molds and sets within minutes. It's perfect for casting hands.
Pro tip: a quick spray of wd40 or some other spray lubricant on your arm/hand will help reduce the number of air bubbles that cling to the skin when molding. They will come through in the cast.
Edit: this is to get a plaster original. DO NOT POUR MOLTEN METAL IN TO ANYTHING WET! This stuff might work with wax, I haven't tried.
Also magic Sculpt
http://www.amazon.com/Magic-Sculpt-Lb-Epoxy-Clay/dp/B003AL71FI
Cutting glass is easy. The tool to do it is here GLASS CUTTER or you can get them at Lowe's or Home Depot in the paint department for about the same price.
Better yet, Lowe's will cut the glass for you for free and if the cut is wrong, they will redo it at no cost. It is about a third the cost of having a glass shop do the job.
Home Depot no longer cuts glass.
As far as putting a notch in the wood, use a "Dado Blade" on a table saw, this is exactly what these blades are designed to do.
You're welcome! This has me wanting to draw siblings more, trying to get the differences and similarities right was a fun challenge. It's one of the best pictures I've seen here in a long time.
This is the paper I used, toned gray is good too.
Off the rack shoe trees probably aren't going to fit all the way to the end of the toe. None of mine do, at least. The only pair of shoe trees that fits the shoes perfectly are my Carmina forest lasted shoe trees, in my Carmina forest lasted shoes. You might be able to find a local woodworker who can try to get something like that going for you?
One idea that I have been toying with is to make my own shoe trees out of thermoplastic. There's stuff like this that can easily be molded into various shapes. I've played with some before. You can wait until it's not particularly hot to the touch, or wet to the touch (but not yet completely dry) before molding it. The idea is to stick that stuff into the toe of the shoe to get a mold for the front of the shoe. Then, seperately make a mold for the heel of the shoe. Then, whittle a piece of wood down until it fits well into the middle of the 2 pieces. I'd cut some grooves into the toe piece and the heel piece so the wood would fit nicely in the middle. I'd also cut some grooves along the length of the toe piece and the heel piece to allow a bit of air flow to the leather. It'd essentially make a lasted 3 piece shoe tree, like these from John Lobb. I haven't gotten around to trying it yet, though.
https://www.amazon.com/Strathmore-412-9-Toned-Sketch-Sheets/dp/B008D2TU76/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=strathmore+paper+toned&qid=1573612951&sr=8-2
I love Dexcom. You'll get way better control without even trying... at least to the mid 8s short term. You'll be subconsciously learning how each individual food/insulin reacts with your body.
You can leave the sensor on after 1st session, just restart it (7 days). They typically last 14-20 days to me, before the numbers are EVERYWHERE.
If you do the adhesive will be the first to come off. Get some opsite flexifix ^^disclaimer: ^^I ^^did ^^not ^^receive ^^any ^^compensation ^^for ^^this.
If you get the Opsite, consider this hole punch ^^See ^^disclaimer ^^above.
The CGM can be put on your upper arm, legs, etc.
The CGM gives you a general idea of how your sugar is going, but not exact numbers. It tends to lag behind BS a little bit (5-10min?) due to the way it works. Don't calibrate right after you eat/dose.
When you take a shower (especially hot ones) your blood sugar will spike. Yes, it's normal. It's temporary. It's not a sensor issue. I have witnessed it on a Freestyle Libre and Good old finger pokes as well.
Don't leave your receiver in your pocket when you go swimming. I made this $200 mistake... (Dexcom is graceful enough to give you a "first time oops" discount of $200 instead of full price) Similarly, be ready to explain to kids what a pager is.
The delica is a pretty great option for whittling. It's a high carbon blade, so it holds up to wood fibers and hard use pretty well. It's got a solid lockup and zero blade play, so control and safety are taken care of. But honestly, it's a better EDC tool than a carving knife.
Another good option I'd throw out for you are high carbon mora blades.
You might also dig this. It's specially made for wood work.
maybe a tiny bit of black sharpie and then some glass glue and call it a day?
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Glass-Glue-2-Gram-233841/dp/B000PSBBM8/
or, if you are feeling crazy, try and get the crack to continue around the edge of the screen so it more closely matches the known issue and get it replaced.
I have a swift similar to this one: Amish Style Wooden Yarn Swift
It isn't the fanciest thing in the world, and generally I prefer using the upright ones, but it gets the job done, and it's really portable since it breaks down into individual straight pieces and can be kept in a bag.
As for a winder, I would *not* recommend this one or anything similar: Marrywindix Ball Winder
It's extremely unsteady, the yarn feeder needs to be held in place while you're using it, and yarn constantly slips and winds up wrapping around the top/bottom, and generally becoming a tangled mess.
I bought this. I'm only doing the part between the screws. I don't see the value in doing the whole face.
Also I've got some strop material
Huh, I never knew about that. Yep, you're right.
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Glass-Glue-2-Gram-233841/dp/B000PSBBM8
Not sure if this is the good kind or not. Just did a quick google search
You can buy thin sheets of magnet and cut it to whatever size or shape you want. Now as far as affixing the photos I would try a few things and see what works best.
Edit: found an Amazon link if you like that sort of thing. I get bored at work some one should benefit.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071L97W57/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RJ26Ab031R35N
If you're in the US, Michael's arts & crafts carries the 9x12 [Canson XL Marker Paper] (http://www.amazon.com/Canson-Xl-Marker-Pad-9X12/dp/B00BN9PFRK), 100 sheets for about $10. It's semi-translucent, so you can slip a guide sheet underneath.
I use [Apoxie Sculpt] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000V58DS0/) to fill in the seams as well as make the additional stuff (roll of fabric for Sable, Labelle's scarf, dress & whatnot). I filled in the seams & smoothed them out w/ my (wet) thumb til they were a little over level with the rest of the surface, let dry (6-8 hours) then sanded down the excess w/ fine grain (180 to 320 grit) sandpaper til flush with the rest of her face.
Oh I'm way in already! :))
It was a person who was cleaning the house and just happened to have scraps, it wasn't a shop. He had 2 pieces left but now the link isn't working so I assume he sold them both? However I don't think I'd do it again, I paid quite a lot in the end (around £7) and the piece I got was just enough for the cover, just had to cut it straight. I think in shops you can get a lot more than that for the price!
However there's things like this if you're interested :)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006UUHUDO/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004YNNP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apis_1519001525672
It looks like you are all ready done with them, and they look great.
I really like apoxy sculpt. This is really easy to use, has an long work time, and you can really smooth it out with wet fingers. dries and sticks great.
https://www.amazon.com/Apoxie-Sculpt-1-Lb-Natural/dp/B000V58DS0/ref=sr_1_5/141-7678837-0075305?ie=UTF8&qid=1524152792&sr=8-5&keywords=aves+apoxie+sculpt
Maybe a nice wood burning kit?
Example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019X78P2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_vam2Ab4TXJC3E
I loom! And by that I mean I crochet/knit with a circle loom. Here's a little guide for stitches and getting started with looms. Personally, I make hats, scarves, and sometimes bracelets and anklets. You can get a cheap set of looms on Amazon and yarn isn't too expensive. Once you get the hang of it, it can actually be pretty addictive. I sold one of my work friends a scarf for $20, but mostly I just make gifts rather than selling them. I made myself several hats, and my siblings hats for their new born babies. :)
Another good option for hand shaping parts is 2 part epoxy modelling compound, like Apoxie Sculpt. When it cures it's rock solid and very rigid so even thin parts are structurally sound. It's not the cheapest, but I love having it around for repairs and makes. It's the bomb. https://www.amazon.com/Apoxie-Sculpt-Natural-modeling-compound-x/dp/B000V58DS0
On a serious note, it's really easy to cut glass. If you can find some glass of the right tint in a thrift store, it's cheap to get. Then go home, buy one of these, then go at it to your heart's content and save money.
Really, you shouldn't be paying to have glass shipped to you, nor for others to cut it. It's quick easy and cheap.
I use this for the fauxdoris I make
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006UUHUDO/ref=cm_sw_r_taa_-.4qxb5HFSV31
You should look for a product called Magic Sculpt for protoyping parts.
It is a 2-part polymer clay that can be kept wet and worked for a week, dries hard as stone without shrinking, can be sanded, drilled, bult-on, glued, etc. It is very fine-grained as well.
It is wonderful for making one-off parts or making parts that will later be used to create a mold.
Not to endorse a specific vendor, but I just ordered this:
http://www.amazon.com/Scrap-Leather-Medium-Brown-Cowhide/dp/B006UUHUDO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
and made a sheath from it today.
Having done this a few times, my best recommendation to you is to get 6-7 oz leather of whatever color floats your boat.
What kind of stitching do you do? I use an awl with two needles, per the instructions in this book: http://www.amazon.com/Art-Hand-Sewing-Leather/dp/1892214911/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1464597294&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=hand+stiching+leather
My first was a basic Michaels, $29.99 winder. It fell off the table, and some tiny connecting piece snapped on the inside.
What are your suggestions for my second winder?
EDIT: I was looking at this.
I was in a big pinch the other day and I used some Gorilla Super Glue and it worked pretty well until I ran hot water over the bowl. It re-broke (the stem was broken cleanly off a bong's bowl) and I re-glued it. It lasted a little over a month and then it managed to re-break again after 10 different cleanings. Not bad for some random super glue that didn't even have glass listed.
To be honest, I think the best bet is just to Google something like 'glass glue'... just found this super glue which seems to have OK reviews. http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-233841-2-Gram-Super-Glass/dp/B000PSBBM8
Shurtape
Yeah, those kits are usually pretty cheap too. Way nicer to look at than sharpie, if you've got the time to work on it.
This one on Amazon is under 25 bucks.
Amazon washi tape first thing that pops up for me! Super inexpensive and I love the designs
If you still have the other section, I would get some Loctite Glass Glue and use that.
I found my pocket bellows to be a perfect tool for directing air flow for burning. I took to this pretty quickly, though I did find it may be easy to burn completely through the piece if you're not careful. I thinned out the bowl of the spoon much quicker than I anticipated.
The rough shaping of the spoon was done entirely with my GB SFA. I then burned the bowl and finished the spoon with my new carving knife.
It turned out crude but pretty, and maybe slightly too big to eat with. A good coffee scoop!
Yes, for pieces like this I use either wood epoxy to fill the gaps, or when working with large gaps (and have plenty of curing time, say 24 hours) I use Magic Sculpt.
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I prefer the latter for a number of reasons, though to go back to your original gap question do keep in mind that things like humidity and temperature can negatively affect a print dimensions, especially in my experience with PLAs that have been "left out" too long from the first opening of the package. I've also found different spools to be different dimensions as well, though we're talking here about tiny amounts, say .5 mm difference. Bigger than that and I'd start to look at making sure the printer is calibrated as much as possible.
I use these tools and they're awesome. I've seen plenty of other people with the same set. 5 good tools for $9 is pretty tough to beat.
https://www.amazon.com/Alja-Safe-Alginate-3-lb-Box/dp/B000KVSU60/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497491586&sr=8-1&keywords=alginate
I used these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071L97W57/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_wqQ6CbHTJMPA8
That's bad ass, thanks for the tip. A lot cleaner then what I've been doing. I've been using the roll from an ace bandage cut to length and wrapping it in tape. It does the job, but it can bend and warp, so it's annoying.
Edit: Are there varieties? Easy enough to buy just by googling? This Stuff?
Yep, I experienced the same problems as well with the tape and wrapping so I experimented with all different soft and hard materials thinking that soft materials would be more comfortable as I would sometimes get pinches etc. But I think the pinching actually comes from the movement in the soft material creating mini creases in the skin which then pinches over time. Also before taping at the start, I would make sure to unroll any creases in the skin but would still get pinches until I custom moulded my own size and shape ring.
Edit: Yes there are all different brands but the link you posted is exactly the tub I bought haha. https://smile.amazon.com/Thermomorph-Moldable-Plastic-Pellets-Ounce/dp/B00D3LAZ9O?sa-no-redirect=1
This is how I got started! Bought this book at a Radio Shack when I was just a wee one. Soldered my first project with a wood burning iron.
I would like to say that I'm now a millionaire because of that book, but after two BS's I just engineer part time at a start-up.
Thanks for the nostalgia.
I recently got some Canson marker paper (100sheets for $15 in my local Michaels) and it works really well! You can only write on one side (the other side seems to repel ink), but that's fine because it's thin enough to see guidelines on a sheet underneath instead of having to draw them for every practice sheet.
Edit: Fixed the link. There are more sizes available on amazon than locally. Will have to note that for myself, because it could be nice to have something larger when my pad runs out.
Self-adhesive magnetic sheets - https://www.amazon.com/Craftopia-Magnetic-Adhesive-Anything-Flexible/dp/B071L97W57/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=self+adhesive+magnetic+sheets&qid=1570631945&sr=8-4
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I use this stuff for many things. Not strong magnetism though. Depends on what you're after. For me weak magnetism is perfect.
Replace that masking tape with this:
https://www.amazon.com/Shurtape-P-724-Console-Mixer-Marking/dp/B00CTWEY9K
Awesome bag collection. I've been turning my bags into refrigerator magnets and covering the fridge. Looks pretty cool. Just get some of this: https://www.amazon.com/Craftopia-Magnetic-Adhesive-Anything-Flexible/dp/B071L97W57/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520867044&sr=8-2&keywords=magnetic+sticky+sheets
and cut to whatever shape you want.
Leather pyrography is quite easy and fun, actually. Buy a woodburning kit and do it yourself.
I don't know how polly plastics work, but the stuff used in clone-a-willy kits is called dental alginate, if that helps. It's super cheap online. If the polly plastic can melt to a point where it's pourable, but not super hot, perhaps you could cast a mold like that? If that doesn't work, I think that same company, smooth-on, sells different silicone mixes as well. That's a little more expensive though. Plus side is you get a ton of of it. Also, using silicone would make it an actual safe and functional sex toy.
Carving tools to make spoons? Or general whittling. Something like this.
Get a knitting loom! Like this!
https://www.amazon.com/Darice-1171-58-Round-Plastic-Knitting/dp/B001GAHFHY
That way you can set it down and don't have to worry about dropping stitches. It's really simple and relaxing :)
This is from the guy above: http://www.amazon.com/Clear-Plastic-Acrylic-Fillable-Ornament/dp/B00AKF8U8O
Said that's what the dude in the video used.
I've looked into things a bit more and now I think I will try thermopellets before 3D printing something.
Thanks for answering. Is this beginner kit on amazon good for doing beanies?
https://www.amazon.com/Darice-Carryi-Round-Knitting-7-inch/dp/B001GAHFHY
https://www.amazon.com/HTS-154S5-Stainless-Spatula-Sculpting/dp/B01C7X7D3E
i think i got these
helps if you have a an xacto knife too
Just about anything anyone could ever want is available from Amazon, a few products are linked below.
http://www.amazon.com/Smooth-On-751635837621-Alja-Safe-Alginate-3-lb/dp/B000KVSU60
http://www.amazon.com/Now-Foods-Lanolin-Pure-Ounce/dp/B000I1OYNK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1373386654&sr=8-2&keywords=lanolin
http://www.amazon.com/Agar-Powder-4-oz/dp/B00015UC48
Here is the mobile version of your link
Best kit ever for dabs it has a flat scraper what I would do get you an airtight glass container scrap up everything in the middle transfer it to silicon. Fold what's left put it in the ziplock bag, put that in your glass container seal toss it and your scrapper in your freezer for 5-10minutes longer if needed but keep an eye on it. It will scrap off so easily and you will get every last bit you can. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C7X7D3E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Probably Knifty Knitters, which is hard to find now, but this one I got recently is a super nice quality. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GAHFHY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Came with lots of different sizes too!
I like these
Best of luck!
I picked up a piece of scrap leather off of Amazon. The description stated it was about 1/8 in. thick, so a little over 3 mm. I had to stick it under some heavy boxes for a few days to have it stay closed without the band around it.
It's stiff, but not terribly so. Definitely still relatively pliable. I wouldn't consider getting leather any thicker-- 3 mm was already a pain to cut (though I'm very inexperienced with leatherworking) and I suspect beyond that it would be much less pliable.
http://amzn.com/B000PSBBM8