(Part 3) Best headphone accessories according to redditors
We found 10,868 Reddit comments discussing the best headphone accessories. We ranked the 2,113 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
https://www.amazon.com/Dongle-Dangler-headphone-accessory-keychain/dp/B01MSYT8HH
Travel protip: Buy one of these instead == http://www.amazon.com/Monster-MP-OTG400-BK-Outlets/dp/B000F9YN2M
Fits easier in your backpack, you can take them on planes, and people are a lot more friendly about sharing the only outlet in the terminal so you can charge your electronic things
ninja edit, I accidently two letters.
Bose QuietComfort 25 - $99 (Lightning Deal)
Surface Headphones - $189
AKG Q701 - $159
Audio-Technica ATH-M20x - $34.50 (Today Only)Audio-Technica ATH-M30x - $51.75 (Today Only)Audio-Technica ATHM40x - $74.25 (Today Only)Audio-Technica ATH-M50xBB Limited Edition - $99 (Today Only)Audio-Technica ATH-M50xBT - $129 (Today Only)Fostex TX1 - $35
AKG K511 - $39 (Today Only)Sennheiser HD599SE (US) - $99Sennheiser HD4.50SE (US) - $99Sennheiser Momentum Free Special Edition - $149
HIDIZS Portable Headphone Amplifier USB Type C DAC - $33
Schiit Modi Multibit - $233
Brainwavz Headphone Desk Hanger - $9I'd rather get a Type-C dongle DAC. Simple adapters are pretty trash in terms of sound quality, at least on my 6T.
I use this: https://www.amazon.com/HIDIZS-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Smartphone/dp/B07F2DTTGT/
HIDIZS/Tempotec Sonata USB C DAC for $23 HERE
Been stalking this one for a while, it had been $45 with $10 off coupon, now its $33 with the $10 off coupon
A lot depends on the style you're looking for. I'll also say that security in a bag is a myth. There are things to discourage certain behavior, but ultimately a bag should never be seen as a secure container. (after all it can always be cut)
What I chose.
I traveled for about a month in Europe staying in hostels. Even though it was only a month I could have traveled for about a year (adding only a tablet) with the bag/things I brought.
Osprey Farpoint 40 Travel Backpack - $150 (Discontinued)
[Osprey Farpoint 40 Travel Backpack
I love this bag but it might not be the single best option for you. It's low profile, turns into a duffle bag (more about that later) and although it doesn't look like a school backpack, it doesn't standout like this either.
The reason I love that it turns into a duffle bag is because theres a semi hidden velcro pocket in the bottom where the cover rolls into. This is a great place to sew or velcro a small zippered wallet or bag to store extra money or valuables. It's not secure as much as its hidden. This won't help you if they steal the whole bag, but it will help you if they just ransack the place and steal from the open compartments.
Other Options
There are a ton of other options. I suggest watching the VagaBrothers Video - How to Choose the BEST Travel BACKPACK | Pros & Cons Minimalist Backpack Review and Travel Tips: Packing Hacks, Tips & Essentials
The F Stop bags look great, but are pretty pricy. Depending on what lenses you're bringing (18-55mm kit lens VS 70-200mm VR f2.8) it may or may not be worth it for size and configurability. I personally bought a Sony a6000 and left my big DSLR at home. That was actually a really good choice for the type of trip I did, but if I was going for a year (like you are) I understand needing the big camera. You might want to get camera/lens inserts like this (but not necessarily that one, I just clicked on the first one I saw on amazon) to store and protect those other lenses.
Hope that helps.
The following is copy and pasted from an email I sent to family friends traveling abroad. It gives links and ideas for things that help when traveling minimally.
----------
----
Security:
Since I was traveling alone, and in hostels, security was a slightly bigger deal for me. I carried my passport on my person or locked in my hostel (many had lockers or metal lock boxes).
At all times I had a photo copy of my passport and everything in my wallet, some local currency, and a print out of all the embassies in the area. (Attached to this email.) I printed this double sided and had multiple copies with me.
I told my mom, "At any time I want to be able to have everything stolen, but still have a way back home.” My credit card will do cash transfers internationally and also includes a continuous travel insurance package.
I would highly suggest making three copies of your passport and all credit cards and other ID you are taking. One lives on your person when your passport is stored elsewhere (hotel, for example), one lives in your luggage (preferably hidden/tucked away), and one stays with a trusted friend or family member that will be in the States for the duration of your trip. If anything happens they will be able to assist with proving your identity to the State Department, thus speeding the process along. I suggest keeping some cash tucked in your passport (along with that embassy list), your copy of the passport in the luggage, and then the copy of the passport and embassy list in your wallet. At this point you have three possibilities of things to grab to prove your identity/pay for a cab/tell you where to go.
While this may seem a little overboard, I find it doesn't take that long to set up and helps greatly should anything bad happen. Also consider registering with the State Department. This helps them track Americans abroad should anything happen, and also gives you alerts, should anything happen. https://step.state.gov/step/
----
Tech Tips
I also used a service called Line2 to give me a US phone number to call from and receive calls to while I was away. I have T-Mobile that gives me included unlimited international data. As long as I had a 4g signal, I also had a phone I could make and receive calls on. Google Voice and Skype would also do this. Do be aware of how much international data costs. Wifi is easy to find, but I suggest using a VPN on your phone or laptop for any web surfing. And even with the VPN I would not suggest logging into any financial (bank, etc) while abroad unless you are on a trusted wifi network (aka, friends).
For maps you can download parts of Google Maps by searching the city and clicking “Download." This should work on Android and iOS versions of Google Maps.
Impressions:
The ATH-AD900X cost around $130 seem to destroy other similarly priced headphones in terms of sound. The clarity and presentation is mind blowing. Compared to my X2's I find they're thin sounding and a lot of instruments lack body. In many tracks I can discern individual instruments much nicer in my X2's. However, there are some tracks I prefer to listen to in the ATH-AD900X's. Tomorrow I am going to try out my first digital EQ and see if the headphones are preferable with a more neutral sound.
Comparison to HD598SE:
So, around black friday I had a friend order the HD598SE's off amazon now for $80. That's right $80.
I'm really happy he paid that for them, because I do not think they're worth any more than that. The ATH-AD900X are on an absolute 'nother level than the Sennheisers. I don't find it understandable at all as to how popular they are. When I go from my X2's to the Sennheisers I instantly notice a huge amount of grain, and lack of body to sound while the change from the X2's to the Audio Technica shows simply less bass, slightly less clarity, and less impact. Songs in the ATH-AD900X just sound like a different presentation, not necessarily a far worse one like with the HD598SE's. I think the Audio Technica's are much closer to the X2's than the HD598's and they're $20 less than the HD598's typically go for. I really feel their love is unwarranted and they should not even be able to exist at this price point. I can't imagine whatsoever how people used to genuinely pay $200+ for them. They sound like sub $100 headphones. Even my $52 IEM's are preferable soundwise to the HD598s.
The mods:
I did a detachable cable mod using this connector following this tutorial. I must say I was in absolute shock how easy the whole thing was. It was my first time using solder and everything was very intuitive. I'm genuinely angry at Audio Technica for not including a detachable cable for their $300 list price headphone. I also got her purple Brainwavz HM5 Pads. Of course they look way nicer and are way more comfy, but I do not hear a sound difference as many claim, but I can't really do a side-by-side test. I decided a headband mod would make them more comfy and help fit her tiny head so I chose this headband in black. I highly recommend it as it does the job properly and is a fun little addition to nearly any headphone for a small price. I chose the V-Moda cable for her and I think it was the best decision because it seems like it will last a long time, matches her pads, and is a long length yet looks much shorter while in use. Lastly we spray painted the driver covers grey and I prefer the look. The total cost of all these mods was $37 and I would really recommend doing it to every ATH-ADXXX model as they now feel like significantly higher quality cans.
It's intended to hold on to a headphone dongle for your phone.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSYT8HH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VLxLAb7RQHVN5
I'm gonna pop /u/the-packet-thrower 's bubble here.
I had an initial reaction to your request to post links to all kinds of things I would want in such a case. But the problem is very similar to suggesting what laptop backpack you should buy.
The purchasing decision depends heavily on a wide array of very personalized requirements & desires.
You've given us practically nothing to work with, so any suggestion can be both right and wrong at the same time.
We don't know if you need to enter highly secured data center facilities, such that all your shit will be x-rayed or visually searched.
We don't know if you need power tools or spare parts.
We don't know if you do small office installs, and need cable pulling & terminating kits, drywall saws and boxes.
All we know if you need a big box with wheels that can hold some patch cords and screws.
I helped design & build an entire data center in Ireland using only this Milwaukee screwdriver. How? Easy. I paid for professional installation of the cabinets, UPS, PDUs and CRAC units.
But in your case it sounds like instead of paying contractors to do certain activities, you do them yourself.
Unless we know what those activities are, it's kind of hard to suggest a case or sets of tools or components, since we don't know what activities you need to perform on site.
You say you don't want to build this kit out by hand, but I honestly can't see any other way. Each decision is a personal choice.
-----
So, here is what I'll do instead of trying to suggest everything you might possible put into a magic box.
Here are five or six products that you might not have seen to consider, or products that I believe I would want on a job site.
I hope this was helpful...
If his practice amp has a headphone jack, maybe this is all you need.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-GPM-103-3-5-inch-Adaptor/dp/B000068O3T/
what I do is use my shitty in ear headphones and with a Headphone Splitter and then put my over the ear headphones on over top of my in ears and it blows my mind every time [4]
I use the Diztronic Revision 3 with the extended battery and it fits perfectly.
Well, ipeeingirlsbuttholes, this might be what you need. http://www.amazon.com/CablesOnline-4-Position-3-Position-Splitter-IP-AY12C/dp/B00N03ZYUU
If you are willing to have some wires connected, you can get one of these and then attach one each of these to each output
That's why I carry around one of these in my bag. Never mind that it's made by monster, it's incredibly handy and makes you a big hit at airports, too. I'd definitely recommend putting some black electrical tape over the LED on the plug as it can make it hard to sleep if you're using it at a hotel. They used to make one with 4 outlets, but I couldn't find it =(
Edit: Here it is
bro finally bought a DAC, and this tube amp to tinker: http://www.amazon.com/Bravo-Audio-V2-Multi-Hybrid-Headphone/dp/B00ADR2DTG gonna be amazing
I use and recommend this headband protector from Amazon. It's saved quite a few of my headphones, especially ones I take outside.
>Am I just being stupid?
AmazonBasics 3.5mm Male to Female Stereo Audio Cable - 6 Feet (1.83 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CNAUYBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nASDCbFNB7BFA
Why not just use an extension cable?
I got this one on prime day https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2DTTGT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jg5qDbN0QC73Z
Read the reviews, there's a firmware update you'll need to do to get the best quality out of it, but it's solid for the price/size.
I bought a pair for my mom on Amazon last week for $120 + free $25 Amazon gift card. Love my pair and I'm sure she will too.
For true "buy it for life" title, get some velour ear pads. The fake-leather ones that come with a lot of headphones will fall apart. I bought a pair of these when they were $18 and I love them.
> https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Speaker-and-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00009WQSR/ref=pd_sim_23_8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VSXKK16GPHXJMY3HG5MK
DO NOT USE THIS TO COMBINE SIGNALS
Splitter cable are made to SPLIT signals (one input into two inputs) NOT to combine 2 outputs into one input!! doing this can actually damage the output stages of the connect outputs as they will try to drive each other!
for reference:
http://www.rane.com/note109.html
Screw on
Non-Screw On
USB A Male to USB B Male
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NH11KIK/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1454007570&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=usb+a+to+b+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=41GqSLLamyL&ref=plSrch
1/4" TRS Stereo to 3.5mm TRS Stereo adapter
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O3T/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1454007688&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=1+4+trs+to+3.5mm+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=31tLIDKLK6L&ref=plSrch
You could use a Y splitter. Single male 1/8" jack to dual female. Make sure to get the stereo version and not the one that splits out into dual mono. Found at any Radio Shack. Except they don't exist anymore, Amazon? Then you plug that into your computer, headphones on one side, speakers on the other. Skip the jacks on the speakers altogether. The output from the speakers would be for a headphone amp, or another amplified source. I don't think they carry enough signal to be useful straight to phones.
Edit: the link. And some more words
I'd like to stress this. While technique is essential, having a little fun is also important because that's what it's all about anyway. A small, cheap kit, a headphone amp and his or her ipod will keep him busy for, well, years.
The case is https://www.amazon.ca/Slappa-SL-HP-07-Full-Sized-Headphone/dp/B009NE7B06
Unfortunately, taking off the cables everytime is not an option because of they're MMCX connectors rated for only 500 couplings (and in that case I would just use the OEM hardcase). I know it looks like I could push the headphones up a bit more, but the case can't close if I do that. Do I just DIY some holes in there? Dunno what I would do about the zipper though. Will this case be useful for the HD6XX at least?
I'd feel really silly having to resort to those gun cases for a headphone. Does anyone have better luck with other cases?
Can confirm.
I have a set of hyper x cloud ii headphones.
They are pretty awesome.
One note: they have a 4 contact single plug. (integrated audio and microphone)
This works fine for most phones, consoles, and laptops with a single audio jack.
My desktop pc has separate audio jacks for audio and mic though.
I also bought this: https://www.amazon.com/Sound-Blaster-Audio-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00GNHSL8C/
Splits the single plug to two. Does a great job.
Got my Christmas presents to myself and some others today. Really excited! After I have some more time with the Superlux's I'll add some comments. Really loving em so far. Merry Chrysler everybody!
EDIT: Impressions!
For the record - here's the playlist I used to test these out, with the original pads and the HM5's. These are songs I know very well inside and out, across multiple genres.
Okay - Here's what I have to say about the Superlux's. I'm quite impressed with their sound:price ratio. I was skeptical at first, about buying a semi-open can but I can surprised to say I am very happy with the purchase. I realized too, that semi-open it very ideal for me so that's a plus.
Sound
So, the Lux's are known for being a good, cheaper alternative to other cans out there that deliver pretty good sound for their price. And that's exactly what they are. I will say I do not own any higher-tier cans, but I have tried them, and as a musician, know how things should sound (I like to think). Bass is punchy when it needs to be, out of the way when it needs to be, etc. I was surprised they got the sub-bass range out very well. Mids are very pleasant (for me). Everyone has their different opinions about what mids should sound like, and I like the way these sound. A little recessed, but still very prominent. High's are not ear-bleedingly loud (good) and they aren't unhearable either (double good). I like to think this is pretty balanced, but everyone has their own ears. Frankly, I didn't notice a difference between the stock pads and the HM5's besides a tiny bit more bass.
Build
Well, when you buy a budget can you get what you pay for - eh. The build isn't terrible, but not great. The band on the top is more plasticky than anything, I was expecting nice stainless steel. The cans themselves are good. A little flimsy, but as long as you're not being an idiot with them I wouldn't worry about them breaking.
Comfort
As Superlux is known for - clamp force! They are a pretty tight fit, which I kind of like. I was relieved when I put the HM5's on because it really makes them way more comfortable. Mind you, these are not the angled ones. They are much more comfortable and if you want to buy Superlux headphones - buy these too. Not bad, though. As someone else posted on here a while ago, a headband cover might be a good investment, I don't feel the need for one yet and I don't know how well it would work with the two pads on top instead of a leather/padded strap. That same guy also put the idea in my brain to buy another cable (and adapter) for them, which I have, it just hasn't arrived yet. The cable I bought has an inline mic/volume control and is wrapped (braided?). I actually fits the color scheme nicely, I like it.
Overall
Good headphone. 8/10 would recommend.
Headphone Headbands help a ton!
A stand for your headphones
Nothing looks sleeker on a desk than properly displayed headphones. [5]
Yeah, the stock pads hurt my ears. I ended up swapping to these after the stock pads started cracking.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075M4TRWR
The problem with larger and comfortable pads is the changed sound. These pads for example tends to accentuate treble compared to the original and I had to apply a filter with EqualizerAPO to compensate.
That's just extension cable. OP is looking for something like this that will combine separate stereo out and mic ports into combo port like you have on mobile phones and newer laptops.
Dongle Dangler - iPhone 7 headphone dongle accessory keychain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSYT8HH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_S3ZgAbZ05YPZM
Amazon literally has dozens. If you want to hear opinions on which are best though I sadly can’t help as I don’t use one but think it’s a clever idea
https://www.amazon.com/Dongle-Dangler-headphone-accessory-keychain/dp/B01MSYT8HH
Found this on Amazon.
These are fairly heavily modified ksc 75s. Love the sound.,
https://www.stlfinder.com/model/koss-ksc75-fibonacci-grills-mod-1J27ApQo/8565490
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TGCDIQG?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07F2DTTGT?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B076JBSJQY?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image
the 2i2 has a stereo 1/4 inch headphone output, so a 3.5mm to 1/4 inch converter should do what you need, here's one I found on Amazon.
OP's phrasing is a bit weird, but the one they linked is extremely compact for having four, widely spaced, outlets.
I mean, it's just a fucking power strip - but that's an exceptionally good one for travel.
Edit: 1,038 reviews and 4.7/5 rating on Amazon. For travel, it actually has advantages over a run of the mill thingy you'd pick up at WalMart or wherever.
SE215 is a pretty good one especially with the foam olive syle tips, and they come in a couple different colors too, as long as she doen't mind the "over-ear" cable setup.
Or you could just get comply tips for any headphones you already have and achieve pretty much the same result.
Not sure what stops people linking from mobile http://www.amazon.com/Diztronic-Flexible-Revision-Protector-Packaging/dp/B0065PGWQ0
Edit: linked from mobile
TPU Diztronic v3.
Sleek, sexy, strong, light. buy it!
/Thread
This exact one. Very good case.
looking for headphone amp to connect to my turntable (Audio Technica LP-120)
Budget: I've got $68.17 in amazon credit right now, willing to go slightly
higher for shipping, as I'll have to if I buy the Bravo
Source: ATLP 120
Isolation: N/A
considering this and this
i've got beats over-ears for headphones (i know)
which do you guys recommend? am I right in assuming on both of these I just run the male end of the cord I currently run from the turntable's pre-amp into my speaker into the female "input" socket, and then plug the male end of my headphones into the "output" socket? i've noticed the Bravo one has a built-in pre-amp, as does my turntable, that won't hurt to run the sound through two pre-amps, would it?
Poor plan, the budget, that is. The orbit actually is a decent turntable and actually will produce a decent signal, so having it choke on $70 worth of junk will not give you your money's worth. I'd go for their preamp, or this one if you wanna keep it down. As for a headphone amp, if you're willing to try something different, go for this little bastard. Sounds great and will drive bigger badder headphones down the road.
You need a mixer to connect your gear to, and then you just connect speakers or headphones to the mixer. I have this mixer for my Volcas and small gear: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KGYAYQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1408515182&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40
To get a stereo sound from it you need this $3 adapter as well http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003DBTAZ4/ref=pd_aw_sims_2?pi=SL500_SS115&simLd=1
You will then also need at least three 3.5mm stereo male to 3.5mm stereo male cables, as well as 3-5 of this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O3T/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1408515974&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40
I bring this in my travel kit. Compact and perfect for hotels or airports.
Seconding this. Although, your not going to want headphones if your at the gym, IEM's are what you want. The foam tips I linked to make any IEM much better. Heres two guides, one for headphones only, and another for various types.
Monoprice 8320 + Decent Foam Tips = About the best you can do around 20.
Try to find something else in the Link on the side with 7.5 sound quality under 60 bucks
Edit: Of course the tips are optional, but to me they really compliment the great cheap 7 dollar earbud that doesn't come with any accessories.
As bagels said, good IEMs are basically like wearing ear plugs that also emit sound of their own. You'll get even better isolation with higher quality tips for the IEMs such as these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002NUJ2RM/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use a Slappa case. The weight added is negligible.
Slappa case...
https://www.amazon.com/Slappa-Full-Sized-HardBody-Headphone-Protection/dp/B009NE7B06/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523258973&sr=8-3&keywords=slappa+case
You need something like this. Just make sure you don't get anything cheap, otherwise it might affect sound quality.
ATH-M50 owner checking in (not the 2nd gen 'x' version)
I see a lot of people recommending the Brainwavz ear cushions, which I have never tried, but I think the memory foam in those actually changes the sound noticeably, which is not ideal when purchasing studio monitors.
I replaced the ear cushions with these Shure ones, and they fit perfectly now. The Shure ear cushions fit all the way around my ear, and allow the drivers to hover over my ears without touching. The stock ATH-M50 ear cushions pressed on a portion of my ears and made them rather uncomfortable.
The headband is comfortable, but the faux-leather material will flake off over time and with heavy use. I use a knit headband cover which snaps on over top and works brilliantly to protect the headband, and add a bit more cushion on top.
Another thing I love about these headphones is the skins on Dbrand. I went with black and white and they look GREAT!
AmoVee Acrylic Headphone Stand - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SGW9QLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5YgJybSDWKCBK
No.
You need a splitter like this one
(Note, I have no idea if that's a good product, just linked as an example)
My google-fu is been on point today! AND it's friday!
https://www.amazon.com/Dongle-Dangler-headphone-accessory-keychain/dp/B01MSYT8HH/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7WFCHEJR4D8SCQA5RHJD
It was a difficult choice for me to jump to the OP7 Pro, honestly. I really weighed what I was giving up and gaining between the two. The major points were:
The smaller points were AOD, knock to wake (which the OP7 Pro has). There's no AOD proper, but it will display an AOD-like screen if you lift/move it.
All-in-all, I'm very satisfied with the transition, and I think it's a proper upgrade despite losing some features. But, everyone has their needs, and the V30 is still such a good phone that I fully understand your decision.
They're the best headphones I've ever owned so far. Buy velour ear pads they're much more comfortable for long periods of use!
http://www.amazon.com/ATH-M50-PADS-VELVET-ATH-M50RD-ATH-M50WH-ATH-M50xBL-ATH-M50xWH/dp/B00F2ZM6CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451211606&sr=8-1&keywords=m50x+velour
TBH just use the Beetz microphone built into the cable. It was tuned by Drey for best base.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N03ZYUU/ just plug beetz into this, plug the headphone one into cassette player. Plug microphone one into laptop (HP Laptop with Beetz audio) and record.
Buy this or something similar to it.
You might be aware of this already, but have you looked into TRRS? The headphones look like TRRS (mic and stereo in one plug) and your old case might have a TRRS socket, but the MSI motherboard looks like the standard 7.1 socket, meaning that you'd probably have to get a splitter like this.
Also, looks like the headphones come with a separate TRS cable, which might mean it only carries audio.
You could try as /u/sverek suggested and use a towel, or some piece of cloth, between the headband, and your scalp. There are also headband covers that serve a similar purpose (although who is to say the fabric from these covers won't make it worse):
https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Sennheiser-Audio-Technica-Replacement-Protector/dp/B00OF71WWO/
Another alternative could be to rip off the HD600 headband cushion, and replace with Dekoni Nuggets, which uses a pleather material, instead:
https://www.amazon.com/Dekoni-Audio-Headphone-Headband-Pressure/dp/B07L8MMP6P
Ironically, the Dekoni Nuggets may actually give you a similar looking shape to the current stock headband cushion, depending on how you arrange them.
Someone got me a yarn band to put on the headband when I got gifted mine. I’ve always used it and it’s great. Let me see if I can find you a link
Edit- here ya go
You can go with a headband wool cover, they sell these on eBay and Amazon. Or you can take apart your head band and use it as a template. Here's a headband mod with leather.
I've used one of these for years:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OF71WWO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just got a new one yesterday because my old one is now on my new Aeons :D
Reposting with a new title due to Rule VII issues I had last time.
Wanted it on the sub for when I make future upgrades to it. :)
Also, since so many were interested last time here you go:
Acer 144HZ Monitor
Ikea Kullaberg Desk
Ikea Renberget Office Chair
GMYLE Compact Keyboard
LIEBIRD Extended XXL Gaming Mouse Pad
Redragon M601 Gaming Mouse
AmoVee Acrylic Headphone Stand
V-MODA Crossfade Wired Headphones. My pair are no longer offered on Amazon but linked the limited edition headphones which still are; otherwise here are their newer wireless versions.
My only bigger fetish than headphone stands, money
Sadly though the only one I could part with is a cheap shitty one that wouldn't be worth it after shipping
Also I'm 99% you're not serious anyway lel
Just undid five years worth of accumulated mess. Saw the beautiful workstations on this channel, and just couldn't take the cognitive dissonance anymore.
The before-and-after pics are available here: https://imgur.com/a/cjznWXZ
Installed a raceway and new power strips under the desk. The project took about four hours or so.
This channel had tons of great product and technique suggestions, and this YouTube video was also extremely helpful: https://youtu.be/Uc01oUqmxhE
Here's what I ended up using:
The next phase would probably be lighting, but I'm far less comfortable in that area. Thinking of a simple LED strip behind the desk using color that is keyed off the screen color. Any suggestions here?
Also, my mic arm clamp doesn't attach to the desk well because the desk has a lower drawer level that bumps into the base of the clamp. Looking for a mic arm clamp that is short--maybe 4-6 inches. I couldn't find easily on Amazon. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
All other suggestions welcome!
use an aux extender that doesnt have the fourth ring? like this but really short: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CNAUYBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Sk2dAbXSK6KM3
?
For what it's worth, I've purchased off Amazon a 6-foot male-to-female AUX cable as an extension cord for my computer headphones. But the same model I got also comes in 12 and 25-foot lengths to make it a little more accommodating. I don't know if the quality for audio deteriorates after a certain length, but it's really nice for my computer and I imagine it would help get a good sound feel while playing consoles.
This is the one that I have.
Any 4-pole to dual 3-pole splitter should work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I3A47KM/
PC's don't use one port for input and output, as you just displayed.
If your headset only has one plug rather than separate ones for audio and mic, then you will need to get a splitter like this
As best I can tell, both of these headsets use a single plug for both sound and mic, correct? That won't work on PC without the proper adapter.
You need one of these.
You'll need a splitter
[](Dongle Dangler - 3.5mm headphone adapter keychain for iPhone 7, iPhone 7 Plus, iPhone 8, iPhone X, Google Pixel 2 and more. (Chrome 1-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSYT8HH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_or3KAbRR3JEY8)
I just purchased this keychain to attach a lightning to 3.5mm adapter to my keys. I can't comment on the quality myself as it hasn't arrived yet but it has 5 stars over 31 reviews on amazon. I also purchased 10 lightning to 3.5mm adapters for a dollar a piece on AliExpress.
I have a pair and would advise against them. They have too many technical issues and are just not that impressive. Additionally, because they do not go in your ear they block very little outside noise.
I would advise using the Bose Quiet Comfort 35 I or II instead. Disclaimer: These are traditional over the head headphones. These are the headphones I switched too and have to say the sound quality is improved and the noise cancellation is incredible. They also work well for phone calls. I switched to these and the Pixel Buds have sat in my bag. The main difference between the I and II is that the II added a Google/Alexa assistant button.
​
If she wants smaller headphones/earbuds then consider something like the Apple Airpods. My fiance (who has an iPhone) loves them.
​
On a related note, I would advise purchasing her a dongle keychain as seen here on Amazon. It helps a lot making sure you do not lose the dongle. I am not recommending this specific one but providing it as an example. https://smile.amazon.com/Dongle-Dangler-Keychain-Accessory-Compatible/dp/B01MSYT8HH/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543535129&sr=8-3&keywords=google+pixel+dongle+keychain
I don't know what would make you better but here is a list of things I personally use/like.
1-3 is normally company provided but if they allow it I normally try and throw in everything but the fidget cube.
I normally bring my own keyboard and mouse since being left handed can kinda suck and most places balk at an 80$ mouse.
Headphone wise I personally use ATH-M50XBT but I do replace the pads with some from wicked cushions amazon
I got these, and it's very easy to change them out. It takes a few tries to get the pads installed. It's kinda like putting on a fitted bedsheet by yourself if you know what I mean, putting it on somewhere makes it fall off somewhere else
I use some 3rd party cushions, that are a little bigger.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075M4TRWR/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=AJSNFWSZON218&psc=1
I'm going to try the leather cushions as well, now they're in stock in EU again.
My own thoughts on turning down the 900hz a bit, is because I think it gets a cleaner sound with less mid-sound.
Read the top review on Amazon. It seems simple actually: https://www.amazon.com/HIDIZS-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Smartphone/dp/B07F2DTTGT
theyre for the RCA to mono TS bandits, you want one of these for your little friends.
Oh, the jack on the left is just a 1/4" inch jack. You have a 1/8" plug (also called 3.5mm) on your headphones. You just need an adapter like the example linked below, but you may have one laying around they often come with many headphones.
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-GPM-103-3-5mm-TRS-Adaptor/dp/B000068O3T
I don't have that cable but if you still run into problems maybe try the setup I got.
GoPro adapter
Splitter - Allows to share a jack with a headset.
Cable
This setup works great for me.
It's a GoPro. The rentals at my school have the clip-in GoPro mounts in the ceilings of all their planes, so it's easy to pop your own camera in and go.
I'm recording the audio using this 1/4 inch TRS to Dual 1/4 inch TRSF Y cable. My headset plugs into one side, I plug this into the other, and connect it to this digital voice recorder.
After flying, I load in the GoPro clips and the audio recording and sync up the sound, then export.
I have this for your exact situation.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009WQSR?ie=UTF8&force-full-site=1&ref_=aw_bottom_links
I looked through all the comments so I'm pretty confident this hasn't been mentioned yet.
Something I always travel with is an outlet converter and a small portable power strip.
This combo really come in handy when you need to use more than one outlet at once (charge a phone, laptop, and digital camera battery, etc.), especially if you're traveling with another person.
I have both of the items linked, and neither take up much room in my carry on luggage (I have an Osprey Porter 46). They're easy to tuck away in a nook, and the power strip's prongs fit into itself, eliminating bulk.
These could go really well the the battery pack many have suggested. Gotta keep all those devices juiced up!
OK, this post is going to look like a series of ads but I promise that neither me nor anyone I know works for these companies; these are just products I love and wouldn't fly without.
Carry-on items: generally you're allowed one carry-on bag and one "personal item" (generally a non-luggage bag) so I always travel with a laptop backpack as my main carry-on and a big, soft, zippered tote as my personal item. I used to have this travel bag with a zillion pockets but it got to be such a pain trying to remember which pocket had which item it got stupid. Now with a big tote, I can just drag it out from under the seat, open it wide, and pull out one of the...
Packing cubes: Godsend. I buy them from ebags in various sizes, using the big ones for clothing in the pack, and the little ones in my tote. I use different colored ones in the tote for different things. Green for snacks, red for electronics, and blue for comfort items. Since all the small, easily jumbled items are in smaller bags, they're less likely to get lost in the bottom of my big bag. I try to keep my electronics cube better organized by using...
Gear ties: these are like durable, reusable twist ties for things like cords, cables, handfuls of hair elastics, anything you want to keep bundled up and untangled. When I want to use something like my earbuds or a charging cable, I just twist the tie around my tote handle so it won't get lost. Some of the items also in my electronics cube are:
Plug adapter (international travel, I have one for every country I'm hitting, even if it's just an airport stop - one 14-hour stranding in the Hong Kong airport overnight taught me that lesson.)
Compact multi-outlet power strip which can make you new best friends in airports and make the stupidly-configured power outlets in hotel rooms actually workable.
Four-port USB charger: one of these means I only need one outlet to charge my phone, tablet, e-book, and my...
Portable power bank: nothing sucks more than a long flight when all your electronic entertainment doodads have run out of juice. My power bank can charge my phone fully 3+ times and is about the same size as the phone itself.
Onto the comfort items! Some of them go into a packing cube in my tote, others are larger so they're separate.
Disinfecting wipes: I like these because they're individually wrapped and good for both hands and surfaces. First thing I do when I get onto a germ-factory airplane is wipe down my armrests and tray table. Also great for public restrooms when you find out there's no soap.
Filtering water bottle: in many cities around the world, airport bottled water is crazy expensive, and water bottle filling station water is, in a word, nasty. I can attach this bottle to my tote with a carabiner and the filter makes most municipal water taste at least halfway decent.
Travel pillow: personal preference but this one is my favorite. My husband prefers a memory foam donut one but I find it heavy and bulky and not supportive in the right way. The Travelrest rolls up to a compact shape and inflates in seconds.
Soft, layered clothing: I wear yoga pants, a sports bra, a t-shirt, a light drape cardigan and slip-on shoes. The only thing remotely binding I wear is...
Light compression socks: actually my pair is just a regular pair of knee socks in the Nordstrom house brand that I keep snug by only wearing them for flights and handwashing them so they don't lose their elasticity. No matter how often I get up and move around during a long flight I'll get puffy ankles if I don't wear snug socks. Over those, once I'm in my seat I put on...
Fuzzy slipper socks. My feet freeze on planes but I don't like wearing my shoes for that long. Even though I don't think my shoes smell, if I get the stinkeye from a neighbor, I put my shoes into a plastic bag, otherwise I can usually get them off and hide them under the seat in front of me before my seat mates arrive to my row. Because I get so cold on flights I also wear/carry a...
Pashmina or other large scarf: works as a fashion accessory, blanket, pillow, and a don't-talk-to-me barrier when worn like a hood. Also covers up that spot where you spilled your coffee on yourself because you had to be at the airport at 5:30 a.m.
Sleeping mask: slap one of these on, engage your (preferably noise-canceling) headphones, lean into your travel pillow, cuddle up under your scarf and try to forget you're rocketing 35K feet over the planet in a big metal tube.
Single-use toothbrushes: I love those little Wisp toothbrush things - I usually keep them in my handbag or work desk for those oh-shit-here-comes-the-CEO-and-I-just-had-a-grande-latte moments, but they're also great for a little freshening up on a plane or in an airport without needing to get out your actual toiletries.
Moisturizers: because plane air is so drying this includes travel-sized lotion, face moisturizer, and lip balm. So much lip balm. I like Aquaphor myself.
Snacks: be nice to your fellow travelers and keep your snacks non-smelly, quiet especially if it's an overnight flight, and not too messy. I like to bring things like clementines, Babybel cheese, trail mix, chocolate covered nuts, or granola bars. Gum is good for takeoffs and landings. If you're prone to motion sickness, candied ginger is great.
Have a comfortable flight!
Some of this is your professors fault, there are some rooms WITH outlets, they just didn't request them. All of surge has outlets in the floor and first class AV systems, but engineering professors never want to teach there because they have to walk farther. Many rooms in Surge are only booked an hour a day.
Most buildings on campus were designed and built well before computers were smaller than the size of rooms, so power wasn't event remotely thought about, because of this much of it cannot by code be retrofitted. To get power in these rooms requires power to be run directly from the breaker, if the breaker(which was probably installed in 1960) isn't designed for it, it has to be replaced(many thousands of dollars), lines have to be run, outlets installed, total cost for a room is probably on the order of $10-15k, many thousands more if asbestos has to be touched in any way which is EVERYWHERE in lots of the old buildings. Multiply that by every room on campus and you see why just adding power isn't a trivial task.
Some rooms have them, ask your professor to request one of these rooms, many rooms have power along the walls, bring a small travel power strip and sit near the wall. MOAR POWER
tl;dr tell your prof to stop requesting the room across from his office that was last renovated in 1972 or deal with it.
Monster makes a nice 4 outlet strip for traveling: http://www.amazon.com/Monster-MP-OTG400-BK-Outlets/dp/B000F9YN2M
I have the BT ones, used them daily for about a year now and they are great. They haven't broken and the charge has kept. They are a little bass heavy, but you know, they are razer. The only thing I would suggest is getting new ear buds. Because the driver housing is made of metal they kept falling out so I got these, they work like ear plugs, where they expand to fit your ear.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002NUJ2RM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WshLAb8VBSXWQ
Other than that they are good BT earphones.
My eternal struggle.
I've settled on these, Brainwavz Blu-100. The sound quality and comfort is good. The battery life is fine for me, but I plug them in when I'm at work and overnight. They do run out a little quickly otherwise. They also seem to fail after a few months, BUT I've gotten them replaced, fairly hassle free, through their 1-year warranty. I'm on a third pair in this way over the past two years, free.
I'd be willing to spring for a more expensive pair with a better battery life, but only if they came with Comply eartips and a similar warranty.
On a side note, if you're ever buying earbud tips, try these. The difference between them and the silicone tips is amazing.
edit: silicon != silicone
Honestly it sounds the same as my buddies normal length MRD. I usually ride with comply noise cancelling ear tips which help a lot.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002NUJ2RM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
~~You could probably use something like this with one of these and one of these. I just grabbed the first search results so better prices could be found easily.
edit* you'd also need to find a female to female 3.5mm connector as well.... you might be better off finding a jack and having someone solder the connections. (this plus this and this)~~
or you could just get one of these
http://www.amazon.com/Headset-Buddy-Adapter-Smartphone-Converts/dp/B00332DPDG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1318352232&sr=8-6
You need a 2.5 to 3.5 headset adapter...and maybe a mic/headphone splitter...or a cable that does both.
Edit:
Atomic Market 2.5 Female to 3.5 Male Audio Adapter Stero or Mono Gold Plated
http://amzn.com/B00AVQ7HJ0
Headset Buddy Adapter: Smartphone Headset to PC Adapter - Use a 3.5mm iPhone/Smartphone Headset With Your PC, Converts 3.5mm Plug to Dual Mic/Audio 3.5mm, for Skype/VOIP (01-PH35-PC35)
http://amzn.com/B00332DPDG
If comteks are way out of your range, I've used a Sennheiser G3 connected to a headphone preamp in video village. Worked great for a few gigs, but it means the headphones are tethered to video village.
This happened to work well at the time because it cost me $20 to rent a G3 and the clients and scripty where also at video village.
Here's the headphone preamp I used.
Pyle-Pro PHA40 4-Channel Stereo Headphone Amplifier
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M8NVFS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_VIAqub0AH284G
I have a 3.5mm to RCA cable into my headphone amp which also has an RCA pass through and that goes to my speakers.
However, I don't know if you want to spend the money on a headphone amp with a pass through, so I guess you could buy a cheap headphone splitter cable with one connected to your headphones and another to your speakers.
I guess that could cause issues with volume control since your headphones would be at full blast a lot if you have your computer volume turned up. You could also consider buying an audio selector or something of the sort.
EDIT: You can see something like this: http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SplitMix4?adpos=1o2&creative=55674776881&device=m&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=Cj0KEQiA_fy0BRCwiLaQ5-iFgpwBEiQA884sOU1j7B-NS0xIsjfFn5cl6zqWVn6QW29yCAlxxFbHP5gaAs6q8P8HAQ
I've never ordered from this website, but I have a product from the manufacturer and they make quality stuff.
EDIT 2: Here's an amazon link with Prime if you prefer.
($50) http://www.amazon.com/ART-SPLITMix4-4-Channel-Passive-Splitter/dp/B002VX0DCE
You could also consider this product for like half the price: ($26) http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00X4SSVAG/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?qid=1453346171&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX220_SY330_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Stereo+input+splitter
Just be sure to buy an audio adapter to send the audio from the splitter to your speakers.
EDIT 3: Spamming you again with another link to another product. ($19) http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003M8NVFS/ref=pd_aw_sim_23_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=412WWEsRYzL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&refRID=0RJSQ3JMS6FC9YTJ55GZ
TL;DR - All of these products will get the job done. Just pick which one you want. 👍
Works well for me with extended battery: http://www.amazon.com/Diztronic-Flexible-Protector-SCH-i515-Packaging/dp/B0065PGWQ0
EDIT: The Slappa case, also available at Amazon
try this one
Yeah I just found a cheap one off Amazon. Seems to be pretty solidly built, although it came shipped from China and took like a month to show up. Hence the impromptu crown bag. lol
Other good looking bag I was eyeballing was this one, but reviews said it had shitty zippers. And then there was this one that looks more sturdy, but it's huge as fuck.
I'm cool with the one I got, it's snug and compact. The only downside is you gotta unplug the cable to fit it in there without bending it. But that's what you get when you go compact, the other briefcase one was too huge for me.
I bought the ODAC at massdrop. Will I need a headphone amp? If so which one? I was looking at a tube hybrid amp or a cheap Fiio.
Not to rain on that guy's parade, but what you actually want is velour earpads.
They come up on massdrop every month or two for $20, but even at $35 they're worth it. Makes them more comfortable for extended wear (pleather gets hot and sticky) and helps absorb a bit of the high end sound leakage as well.
http://i.imgur.com/yAg3swz.jpg?1
Mmmmm Velour (well, velvet)
Look into the upgrades they sell for the pads. $5 and it improves the comfort a bit in my opinion without really affecting the sound.
Some of the velour pads you can get for the M50x like the ones Massdrop sells sometimes will probably be awesome for you. I think they improve the comfort on this and the M50x by a huge factor without messing up the sound. They will drain the bass a bit, but you complained about the amount of bass so that's a plus.
People will recommend the HM5 velour pads, but I think they fuck up the sound. If you don't want to wait for another Massdrop sale on the velour pads, this is the one from the drops that you can buy for $10 more or so at any time.
I like this headphone too and recommend it to people looking for <$40 headphones all the time. I wish I saw more reviews of Monoprice's other headphones. This one has been known for several years as an incredible value, but Monoprice has really expanded their selection recently.
I bought these http://www.amazon.com/ATH-M50-PADS-VELVET-ATH-M50RD-ATH-M50WH-ATH-M50xBL-ATH-M50xWH/dp/B00F2ZM6CS
Some Shure pads also work.
When you speak into the mic it creates an analog waveform that is sent via the XLR cable into the interface. The interface provides a proper input to receive the signal. It uses a built in preamp (controlled by the gain knob) to boost / cut the signal. Then it converts it to a digital signal and sends it via USB to the computer.
Inside the computer you can do lots of things to the signal. You can send it to a standalone modeling app. You can send it to a DAW and record it. You can process it with VST plugins. Lots of things.
From here each program can do its own thing in terms of output. I don't know how the POD Farm standalone works, but I know that a DAW will require you to specify a driver and a device. That's the preferences ASIO UX2 thing you're talking about. This means that Reason is receiving input AND sending output through this device. So if your headphones and speakers are connected to your PC and not the UX2 then they won't do anything. The PC is its own separate soundcard with its own set of drivers (Realtek HD).
Sounds like POD Farm is sending it out from your Realtek soundcard. But in my experience DAWs want uniformity of one device for input and output.
I'm guessing your speakers and headphones have a 3.5mm cable. Your UX2 is 1/4". You can get an adaptor like this and simply run them through the UX2. Then set the UX2 as your soundcard across everything - your DAW, the standalone app, and the Windows sound setting.
$1.41 - Hosa GPM-103 3.5mm TRS to 1/4" TRS Adaptor
Depending on your playback device you may need adapters for the outputs on the back.
If your speakers have a (2x) cinch input, you need adapters like these. If they have a 3.5mm TRS plug, you'll need something like this.
If you have headphones that have a 3.5mm plug instead of 6.35mm, you'll need an adapter like this one.
You'll also need an XLR cable to connect your mic and possibly a pop filter for recording vocals. The AT2020 is often sold as a bundle with both.
Here is also a bundle with a boom arm (of questionable quality).
I've got two MA-30s lying around because one was my wife's before we were married. We've been married 7 years. Though they've seen less use in recent years, they have definitely been through the long haul. I know that I've shattered mine against the wall at least a few times in that period out of utter frustration (unhappy things happen in practice rooms sometimes). I just located the batteries and snapped it back together it and it's still ticking all these years later.
Yeah, you can run it through the keyboard. You'll need a 1/8" cable and a 1/8" to 1/4" adaptor (I think one came with my Privia and I have several lying around so you might too). Just connect one end of the 1/8" cable to your metronome and the other one (via adaptor) to the line in on your keyboard.
And for the record, I'm not necessarily recommending any of those particular bits. I just thought I'd throw links up to clarify the equipment needed. Those prices are bad, but you can almost always do better at http://www.monoprice.com/ for ANY sort of cables you need. ... Seriously, if you ever need an HDMI cable, get it on Monoprice.
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-GPM-103-3-5mm-TRS-Adaptor/dp/B000068O3T/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419540396&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=headphone+adapter
You can get one of these for each and it will solve the problem.
The reason it is 1/4" TRS most of the time is because most studio headphones, where you need headphone amps the most, have a 1/4" end.
Non-mobile:
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
Here is an adaptor. I'm not a PC gamer so I don't know how long the cable is, but I would say to have at least 4-5 feet of headphone cord available. This is because most keyboards have the headphone jack on the backside and a regular cable can be very annoying.
You could try connecting both amps to a female to 2 male stereo y cable, then connecting that to a male to 2 female stereo y cable, then connecting headphones into the 2 available female jacks.
If your amp only has a 1/4" output jack then you can get 2 3.5mm to 1.4" adapters as well.
I use a 2 male to 1 female y splitter so I can connect to my amp and my computer at the same time so I can play along to songs off my computer and it works flawlessly.
Did a little bit more looking into integrating audio for future reference to other redditors if you plan to use your Yi brand camera(s) (or USB Type C connection) inside the cabin (to directly input cables on the camera).
Audio cable: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-110-3-5mm-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3D/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458126042&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=1%2F4+inch+to+3.5
Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Vention-Retractable-Plated-Type-c-Speaker/dp/B078RGBBBW/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524247294&amp;sr=8-12&amp;keywords=3.5mm+audio+to+usb+type+c
Optional if you plan to use same socket for your mic and for the camera (Splitter): https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YPP118-Dual-Female-Cable/dp/B000068O56/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458126160&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=1%2F4+splitter
Forewarning: This is based on my research, I have not tried this yet. But I plan to and will update this thread.
To add to my post last night, this should do it, I think.
Grado 1/4" Stereo Male to Twin Stereo 1/4" Female Y Adapter Cable?
They can also build a custom single 1/4" Stereo Male to 1/4" Female but it will cost 4X more...
Hosa is much cheaper...
DIY...
something like this?
There's your issue! That is a mono only cable. I'm pretty sure that output on the Behringer is stereo so you will need to use a 1/4" TRS y-splitter. That will take the stereo signal and split it into L+R. Then you would just connect each speaker to the corresponding L or R output. Or however that works with those speakers. Looks like you may just connect both cables to the one speaker and daisy chain to the second. Either way you will need to split that stereo TRS into 2 (L+R) TS.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YPP-118-inch-Dual-Cable/dp/B000068O56/
or better:
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HA400-BEHRINGER-MICROAMP/dp/B000KIPT30/
If you're going to DIY it like I suggest, just watch out for mislabelled cables. I see it a lot. The "insert" cable which is the one coming out of the A4 needs to be tip/ring. Ignore the terminology and as long as the 2 ends are different colours, you'll be fine.
This:
http://www.amazon.ca/Hosa-YPP117-inch-Dual-Cable/dp/B000068O54/ref=sr_1_38?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452817817&amp;sr=8-38&amp;keywords=Y+cables
Not this:
http://www.amazon.ca/Hosa-YPP118-Dual-Female-Cable/dp/B000068O56/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452817771&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Y+cables
The second cable simply duplicates the input to both outputs.
After that, simply use mono cables to get into the MS-20.
You need 2 male to female y adapters out of the mixer for either XLR or 1/4 depending on which output you use. Run a wire from each output of the Y to the sub and to the monitors.
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YPP118-Dual-Female-Cable/dp/B000068O56
Or
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O59
Then you would need either XLR to RCA or TRS to RCA adapters to go from the splitter to the subwoofer.
If you're okay with the additional toms being single-zone, I know my Yamaha DTX-500 (I think) supports using splitters to double the tom ports.
In other words, I have six toms hooked up, two to each tom port. They currently trigger the same MIDI notes, but only because I haven't really figured out what I'm going to do with them. Note that's done with dual mono -> stereo cables.
I'm also duplicating my crash (just convenient to have one on the left and right) and the double bass pedals, FWIW. Those are done with dual stereo -> stereo cables. Each side has the same zones, but who cares?
So, anyway, I have a decent number of triggers on the head unit I started with. Only complaint is that I had to upgrade my rack, which is now some Frankenstein-ish thing.
Hi, I noticed you were asking about the splitter setup. I've been playing this way since I first got the game a year ago and love it. I'll try to give as much info as possible.
I have this splitter
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O56/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
I plug the "male" end into my bass, then plug the RealTone cable and just a regular 1/4 guitar cable male ends into the female ends of the splitter. The USB end of the RealTone cable gets plugged into the PC/PS4/XBOX as normal and the guitar cable gets plugged into your amp/pedals/whatever. I much prefer this setup as I can barely hear myself when just relying on the ingame audio. Word of warning, this device seems to be a hit and miss on whether it will work, but I figured for such a small price it wasn't too much of a risk.
I'm not versed in the use of the more complex splitters, but hoped this helped somewhat
my setup is pretty easy:
I then match the audio to the video in post-production.
They have a green male to 2 green female splitter if that’s what you mean.
They have ones that have red and green female jacks to combine audio and microphone into one black male end.
They have ones that have red and green male ends that split a black female jack.
Headphone splitter
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Speaker-and-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00009WQSR
Not sure why you'd use a quality mic on Xbox. But there you go
You can also use one of these headphone splitter and use BOTH MIDI adapters to sequence your Volca FM on ch. 1 and another on Ch. 2. I use this trick a lot to with the Keys and Bass. I like the sound from the Volcas more than the sound from the Circuit.
I was wondering if this would be all I need
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Speaker-and-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00009WQSR/ref=pd_cp_e_2
Is the thing you linked even um...the right kind of splitter you would want? Wouldn't it be more like this. The one you showed only takes one headphone but idk if I am just missing something stupid.
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Speaker-and-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00009WQSR
There are also passive mixers.
https://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX42-Stereo-Mini-Mixer/dp/B00102ZN40
EDIT: Technically, you can use one of these, as well, but I'm not sure what that would mean for the output... If it would still be stereo from each unit, or not. I think it would also mess with the volumes.
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Speaker-and-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00009WQSR/ref=pd_sim_23_8?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=VSXKK16GPHXJMY3HG5MK
Or combine 5 into one:
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-RockStar-5-Jack-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00904WS2K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503136561&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=belkin+rockstar
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Speaker-and-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00009WQSR
Sure.
Most PCs have an 8mm (headphone jack) input for a microphone. By using a standard y-splitter cable available at many stores (wal-mart, Radio Shack, Best Buy) you can plug in more than one device to send sound to that jack.
You can put any audio files you'd like to play on your phone (a soundboard in this case is simply an app that let's you put several buttons on screen to play certain audio files easily, not an actual hardware mixer - you phone's media player will work fine, but may not be as intuitive for this use) and use a double-male 8mm cable to plug your phone into the splitter alongside your microphone. Then the phone audio and your mic will go through without needing any special software or keystrokes.
You can't play audio through headphones and speakers at the same time - however, it is possible to use a headphone splitter so you can both use headphones with the same port.
I'm not saying "get this specific one", but I always travel with something like this.
Yeah, it's a small brick, but it doesn't take up all that room. It'll have the right plugs for any international outlet, and it has USB connections as well....so, you could charge your phone (via USB), your travel battery (via USB), and your camera battery (via plug) at the same time.
I travel with a lot of electronics, so I also travel with a mini-travel power strip like this (again, I'm not saying "buy this one", just that it's an example of something I travel with), so that I can charge multiple plugs and multiple USBs at the same time.
The small brick for the outlets and the small travel power strip really don't take up much room at all, and they ensure that I can charge all my devices no matter the destination. All I need is one outlet, and I can charge something like 5 devices via USB and plugs.
Not if you buy one for this purpose, such as this folding travel one: http://www.amazon.com/Monster-MP-OTG400-BK-Outlets/dp/B000F9YN2M
Regarding your last point, it's always a good idea to bring a compact power strip with you when travelling. Something like this or this, though you may need a 3-prong to 2-prong converter for some places in Japan. They are great for nights when you have to charge multiple devices and make you a hero at airports.
Traveling with a power-strip is an old trick for avoiding to carry multiple plug adaptors, but going from the US to Europe you need to be a little careful.
Electricity in the US is ~110 volts, whilst in much of the rest of the world it's 200-250 volts.
Although power boards/power strips are generally passive, and thus the number of volts should not have any impact, many of them do include various types of fuses or additional circuitry (eg, USB ports) that could potentially have issues with higher voltages. If you were to plug multiple high-current devices into a power board (eg, a hair dryer) it's also possible that you could draw more watts than the board is designed to support.
There are a few products that are specifically designed for travel, and designed to support both 110 and 240 volts, such as the Monster Outlets to Go range (Note: Amazon doesn't say it, but the manufacturer has confirmed that these items are designed for up to 250 volts)
source
TLDR: Don't use a US power strip in Europe/UK unless you specifically read a review that says that particular model is OK.
here's the one i use. Very simple and robust.
What I do is bring something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E7FMY3U/
It isn't universal, but most trips only cover one or two styles of plug anyway so I just take what I need for that trip. This single-style adapter is smaller and lighter than a universal adapter, and if you look at the picture you'll notice that they have output connectors on both the front and the bottom. This means I can insert my adapter in-between any existing occupied outlet. This is great at places like an airport, where you might be trying to crowd around a few limited outlets.
If I'm not traveling light (only phone and tablet) then I then also carry a small travel power strip, like the one below, so that I can have more outlets for things like my laptop:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F9YN2M/
I have a few of these scattered in various travel bags.
Ah oui, c'est pas dans la boite. J'avais reçu les miens avec des mousses Comply en plus du caoutchoux (genre elles mais sans l'emballage à la con) mais ça devait être un bonus. Ils sont compatibles avec les mousses en tout cas.
Maybe if you got some cheap pair. I have a pair of their "higher end" ones and i am pretty happy with them. But then again I purchased a pack of these.
I would highly recommend getting a pack of those for any pair of earbuds you have (unless they are super fancy and molded to your ears). They are basically ear-plug material that fit snug in your ear, cancel out some outside sound, making your earbuds sound better.
Your hatred of earbuds would be non existent if you had some super comfy memory foam earbud tips.
https://www.amazon.com/Comply-Foam-Premium-Earphone-Tips/dp/B002NUJ2RM/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495810217&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=memory+foam+earbuds
On amazon you can buy memory foam-ish ear bud covers. You squish them like ear plugs before you put them in your ears and then they expand once they are in. I love these. Cancel out a ton of sound and stay put! I think they are relatively cheap. Like These
If you find a set of headphones you like, see if you can switch out the tips to Comply foam tips.
You'll have to experiment with the right size, and they need to be replaced every few months, but these will stay put. I use them with my Jaybird BlueBuds X, and they are amazing.
Try these. Noise isolating foam tips that you can put on any brand of earbuds. They make 6 or 7 different compatibility versions.
https://www.amazon.com/Comply-Cancelling-Audio-Technica-QuietComfort-Replacement/dp/B002NUJ2RM
At $20 there really aren't that many fabulous headphones or IEMs we can recommend. If you don't like the design you'll have to expand your pricepoint to something like $50. That being said, the best bang for your buck at this pricepoint are the Monoprice 8320 with some replacement tips, such as these.
I'm wary about these services. I purchased a pair of custom fit earphones made by Zombie Eargear and they were horrible. I had to make moulds of my ears, send them in and wait for the earphones to arrive. This took weeks. They sounded fantastic and were well made and except for a fatal flaw. For some reason, they were made too shallow and the connector for the wire was put in an awkward spot that put pressure on that little cartilage piece in the front of my ear. After a few minutes, wearing them was agony.
I took detailed photos, indicated the areas where they hurt my ears, and sent them back to be reworked. I'm not sure what they did but it wasn't enough. All told, I paid like $200 for useless earphones from a company that seems to have folded shortly after. I guess other people had problems as well and their business model couldn't handle it.
Later, I got some super cheap memory foam sleeves that fit a pair of Shure earbuds I had previously bought and they're comfortable and sound fantastic. I recommend getting some regular high-quality earbuds and finding the proper tips.
These are the ones I got: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002NUJ2RM and they fit on my Shure E2G earbuds.
Most headsets will work.
Watch out for apple specific ones as they use a different jack connection configuration. No surprise there. (Apple chargers also only output .5amp to non-apple devices)
Just Google "difference between android and iPhone headsets"
I use these for workouts: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DDPZ5N6/
And these for everything else: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DIGD3TS/
Both work great, no complaints.
Protip: I'd also buy some foam inserts to replace the shitty silicone ones most earbuds come with. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002NUJ2RM/ The difference is amazing.
I paid $20CAD when I bought them last year. I got a pack of 3-pair size medium.
Here's the exact product I bought: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002NUJ2RM/
Price has gone up since then oddly enough.
PC's use separate 3.5mm plugs for mic IN and headphones/audio out.
So you need this:
http://smile.amazon.com/Headset-Buddy-Adapter-Smartphone-01-PH35-PC35/dp/B00332DPDG/ref=smi_www_rcolv2_go_smi?_encoding=UTF8&amp;*Version*=1&amp;*entries*=0
just make sure whatever you get supports CTIA 3.5mm jacks.
BTW I think some PCs (like macs) have a dual in/out plug.
The names for those is TRS (regular) and TRRS (Apple). Those stand for Tip, Ring, (Ring - Apple), Sleeve, which describes the connector.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TRRS
I believe they sell splitters for the TRRS connectors, but they cost a bit more. That was the only one I found that mentioned a mic pass-through.
What OP grabbed is to split signals (like I link just above), in order to separate the signals OP would need to get a different type of cable, like this one.
(above links are just examples)
Yeah, you'll need one of these
These headphone devices that are used on cell phones won't work the way you expect them to on PCs. You will have to get an adapter like THIS
You'll need one of these. Smartphone Headset to PC Adapter
Headset Buddy Adapter, assuming you mean a laptop that's not a Mac.
Man, did your description make my head hurt...
Then it clicked in my head. It sounds like you just need one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Headset-Buddy-Headphone-Adapter-PH35-PC35/dp/B00332DPDG
There are headphone amps like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PHA40-4-Channel-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003M8NVFS/
that you plug into your phones out and you get four headphone jacks each with their own volume control. I've never used one of these myself.
!
What if you use an RCA TO 3.5mm cable from the Xbox audio out, into a headphone amp, then your headphones from there?
Pyle-Pro PHA40 4-Channel Stereo Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M8NVFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mTM4yb9TDCW8Z
Edit: looks like that's 1/4", not 3.5mm. Same solution, just different size jacks
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M8NVFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Mft8ybDS043JK
Something like that? If not, do you mind linking what you were describing?
Like an Astro mixamp or generic? I know Astros work with the TAC so I don't see why TB's wouldn't work with the Astro mixamp. Personally I think the mixing aspect is overrated and I just use a cheap headphone amp, but some people swear by it. cheap amp example
I dunno abou the USB mic setup, as we use a Korg D888.
But, I bought a cheap Pyle headphone amp for around $20 on amazon and it has worked wonders for us, both in sound quality and in professionalism.
One thing you may want to invest in would be some decent quality headphone extension cords and 1/4 in. to 1/8 in. adapters.
Good luck!
The headphone amp that is built into these DAC HATs is just a $20-$30 amplifier. These are not $100 amplifiers that you are buying in a $50 DAC HAT.
So why not buy a $20-$30 headphone amplifier?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CPUVPEM/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_bwErZ_c_x_1_w
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ANENCB6/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_bwErZ_c_x_7_w
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003M8NVFS/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_bwErZ_c_x_3_w
http://www.guitarcenter.com/Behringer/Micromon-MA400-Headphone-Amplifier.gc
http://lifehacker.com/five-best-portable-headphone-amplifiers-1722800379
I'm currently using this case, its one they sell at vzw. I like it because it wont slip on surfaces but isn't hard to get in and out of my pocket.
I also tried this case with is nice but the volume button can get accidentally press to easily. Ended up cutting out a hole for the volume buttons.
http://www.amazon.com/Diztronic-Flexible-Protector-SCH-i515-Packaging/dp/B0065PGWQ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1344398907&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=galaxy+nexus+matte+case
That's what I have and it's very very good. I really like it. I bought the same case for my S3 as well just because the color is so nice from the same company and so did my uncle.
It's a nice case.
Here!
Diztronic. Not plastic but has a nice grippy feel to it
If your contacts are saved in either your Google Account or backed up with Verizon Contact Backup, then when you sign into your new phone they will all come over. If you chose not to do either of these, then they're all gone to you. I suppose it's possible Verizon can plug in their machine and download your contacts, but I'm not familiar with that since everyone seems to save contacts to their Google account.
If you're not sure if you saved them in your GA, go to Google Contacts and check. If they are there, they will all show up when you sign in.
As far as emails go, if you use gmail, all that is stored on the web. The only way you would lose email is if you used POP3 on your phone instead of IMAP. It's also possible you will lose emails sent or deleted from the phone.
This is the case I have and I love it. It's a TPU case so it's mega thin while still providing enough protection in my opinion.
Good luck!
Great tip I found them for £5.95 on Amazon UK fulfilled by Amazon UK so free shipping.
Is this the link your looking for?
The one above took me to a login screen.
Here ya go!
Oppo is nice, earpads are non replaceable though and so is cable I believe. The pleather starts to flake relatively quickly too.
I've A/b'd them they're both quite nice! I ended up with the 1770 but travel wasn't a high priority with it.
you can also easily throw the 1770 in a Slappa case for something more portable than the standard case.
I haven't tried the MDR Z7 but they look pretty sweet!
I have the Slappa hard case and they fit all my headphones including the DT990 pro
Ultimately I phased out of it and use the Pelican 1400 instead now primarily, I'm pretty sure the 1300 will fit it as well
If you get the DT770's, be sure to get a Slappa case for them.
http://www.amazon.com/Slappa-Sized-HardBody-Headphone-SL-HP-07/dp/B009NE7B06/
It's pretty expensive, but less expensive than a new pair of headphones. Just something to consider, if you use them on the go.
http://www.amazon.com/Slappa-Sized-HardBody-Headphone-SL-HP-07/dp/B009NE7B06
I got the M50x instead of the M50 because I plan on keeping them around for a while. The sound is exactly the same, but there are several other differences.
It's worth noting that the replaceable cords in the M50x are proprietary. There's a locking mechanism that holds them in place, so a replacement cord would need to be designed with that in mind.
I use this case for mine. There's plenty of room with the HE-400i
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NE7B06
There's a new version and reviewers are saying that it also would work.
Out of those I can only speak to the Audio Technica ATH-M50x. I don't have any Bose cans, so I can't provide you with a comparison, but what I can tell you is that the M50x are fantastic headphones! They are especially good if you plan to carry them around with you while you're out and about because of how they fold up, allowing them to be very compact.
I've had mine for a few years now and I've really enjoyed them. I use them primarily at my work desk where I have a https://www.amazon.com/Bravo-Audio-V2-Multi-Hybrid-Headphone/dp/B00ADR2DTG amp (they don't need an amp to drive them, but I like the warmth it adds to the sound).
Bravo V2- just a little cheap tube-preamped FET-driven headphone amp. I like it, I'm using a Hammond organ tube from the '50s in it right now.
Nothing fancy just in case someone gets sticky fingers;
Amp
Headphones
Audio Cable
Tube Upgrade
Do you already have a headphone amp or happen to have a stereo amp or receiver with a headphone jack?
Lowest decent entry level Audio-Technica AT-LP60XHP $129 has a headphone jack for easy to drive headphones.
Or a better Teac TN-300SE Black or Walnut $150 with Coupon code SPIN in the shopping cart click "Have a promo code" above the subtotal on top. The Teac also has a built in phono stage preamp.
Then add a $100 headphone amp: [z]GUIDE[s] \\\ SEPARATE DAC & AMP & TUBE-AMP
Or under $100:
Or look for a better used turntable, often vintage 70s and budget in a stylus replacement $30 to $50 if it does not have a new one.
If it does not have a built in phono stage preamp, you will need to add one before the headphone amp, or use a basic entry level combo preamp and headphone amp, Nobsound T12 Phono Preamp Headphone Amplifier $35 or Depusheng PP500 $25.
http://www.amazon.com/Bravo-Audio-V2-Multi-Hybrid-Headphone/dp/B00ADR2DTG
It's pretty good for the price but it's not well isolated so it occasionally gets static from outside sources.
While you will certainly get better value from a ss amp in that price range here are some tube amps...
[i have this one and am quite impressed with the sound] (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/32443111524/32443111524.html)
["portable" but has bad reviews] (http://s.aliexpress.com/b6BB7Bbu)
Has a dac but is more expensive
[more expensive] (http://s.aliexpress.com/Znmumi67)
[bad reviews] (http://s.aliexpress.com/A32EZJJn)
[probably bad] (http://s.aliexpress.com/NvYzUVvu)
[called a guitar amp but im sure it could drive headphones] (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/32748157846/32748157846.html)
[very bad reviews] (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251876015253/251876015253)
[Looks okay] (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271969184294)
[Really good video reviewing several candidates. Definitely watch this before purchasing] (https://youtu.be/22kx0q5j-JA)
EDIT:Just read amazon only
Here are some amazon links to the above ones. They are a little bit over budget but are the cheapest ones.
[1. Recommended] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014FASL1A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482186554&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=Tube+amp&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41llpyTU%2BIL&amp;ref=plSrch)
[different one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M7101CY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482186722&amp;sr=1-3&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=Tube+amp&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41QGAaW2nnL&amp;ref=plSrch)
[good reviews] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ADR2DTG/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482186784&amp;sr=1-6&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=Tube+amp&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51CV4EXJUzL&amp;ref=plSrch)
[another one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I19SBK2/ref=mp_s_a_1_61?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482186981&amp;sr=8-61&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=Tube+amp&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41zNfkGPeGL&amp;ref=plSrch)
You wont need any amp for those headphones and it will have nearly no effect on the sound. I understand it looks nice but if you really want to improve your Audio, invest in new headphones.
I listened to a pair of AKG Q701's my co-worker had. I used them on one of these and the treble was just too out there. At work I use HD518's and the sound was much more natural and warm on this same amp.
Killer amp for the price though.
got u broadie
https://www.amazon.com/ATH-M50-PADS-VELVET-ATH-M50RD-ATH-M50WH-ATH-M50xBL-ATH-M50xWH/dp/B00F2ZM6CS
They are a pair of velour earpads that I got off Massdrop (the drop is no longer active) . However, these pads on Amazon look very similar. Since there is no branding I can't be sure if they are identical, but it looks close. Hope that helps!
I've had the M50's for a while and had the same problem on both the ear pads and headband. The velour pads are from Massdrop but it seems like Amazon carries them as well. Here's a link to the headband cover if you're interested.
Get [these] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F2ZM6CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.L08ybP09TKBE)
They are 100x more comfortable than the regular replacement pads, and they last longer
Fuck massdrop. Similar (same?) pair on amazon already for $30.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F2ZM6CS?cache=5a525fc4f6e55beafe1dd0fde8e1e62d&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&amp;qid=1414289209&amp;sr=8-4#ref=mp_s_a_1_4
this works with razer or any other headset
Yeeeesssss, I feel your indecision grooowwwwing. come to the dark side. On a side note I got the mic from my brother which he won for free from work and I have my computer, xbox, and tablet going to my headphones.
Now the mic issue for me is solved by using the stream mic. My buddy just patched the tv headphone jack with his pc to some headphones using the rockstar and uses an old mic plugged into the controller to chat.
I have also talked to someone who used one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Sound-Blaster-Audio-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00GNHSL8C
along with a cable to patch in his Game audio and whatever device he wishes to play separate audio from. Either way there are options all it takes is some creativity....... and wires, wires freaking everywhere.
so wait, you're using a single, 4 band 3.5mm headset, and trying to plug into the headphone jack?
You'll need a splitter, but not just a regular headphone splitter, something like this which specifically splits out the inline mic from the headphones.
edit: this one is cheaper and has higher reviews
If I'm not wrong, the ATH usually provides their headphones with cables that have a combo jack. Might wanna check their specs sheets first, and if it has, just get the M40 and some splitter
EDIT: Right, they don't. How about the M40x and This cable?
Add in some splitter as well and I'm sure you're good to go.
So in total, the headphone, cable, and splitter will cost you $100, which is just on budget
Pretty good mic. I bought these this week, and I have to say it's the best headset I've had in a long time, if not ever. Great sound, good seal around the ears, minimal external noise, lightweight (like they aren't kidding when they say "Cloud"), really comfy on the ears too, and I got a large head and equally large ears. Super comfy. The only thing bad about it is the inline soundcard. The 7.1 is a little meh, else it's pretty good.
This is one of those headsets with a 4-pin 3.5mm, so I'd recommend getting a splitter if you have a good soundcard that you'd rather use. I bought this one and it does the job perfectly, though it's a little short altogether, but fine if you use your front panel ports.
Sounds like you're only using and audio splitter. You need a mic/audio splitter as seen in link below. Also realize that for 3.5mm there are certain pinout type for mono/stereo/stereo with mic configurations.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GNHSL8C/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?pc_redir=T1
Also there are some for half that price or cheaper... just search "audio mic splitter"
You will need one of these. I have this one and I highly recommend it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GNHSL8C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You need to get one of these type. I currently have that one and I swap between the usb sound card and analog. The usb sound card isn't broken btw it's just controlling the volume with its own software seperate from windows. The mic being low is just a random defect I think some have.
Do you have a splitter connected when you connect the headset to your PC or are you connecting using the same single 3.5mm connector you use for your phone? If you don't have a splitter, that's your issue. The 3.5mm connector from your headset is TRRS, which is what your phone supports and it carries both microphone and audio through one cable, your PC connection is TRS and has separate microphone and speaker ports.
https://www.amazon.com/CablesOnline-4-Position-3-Position-Splitter-IP-AY12C/dp/B00N03ZYUU/ref=sr_1_42?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519149012&amp;sr=8-42&amp;keywords=Trs+to+trrs
You'll need somthing like this as long as your computer has a separate port for Mic & headphones
you need something like this
It's likely because the jack on the EX14AP has one extra conductor (for the microphone) than the jack in the computer (which I assume you're using and that has separate headphone and microphone jacks). You could get a splitter like this which should fix the problem. Any decent looking adapter will do, just make sure it's TRRS female to dual TRS male. You don't need to have the microphone jack of the splitter plugged in btw.
You can use a TRRS splitter that separates the headphone signal from your mic signal. Here's an example. Note that you need one that goes TRRS female to TRS male. It'll probably be better to just get another pair of headphones though.
Correct. He would need a trrs to trs adapter/splitter.
I believe you have a trrs jack on the headset (4 gold sections). These carry both audio out and in. If they're plugged into a non trrs jack, then they just act as headphones, the audio out only.
The laptop has two standard 3.5 mm jacks, one for audio out, and another for audio in. You need a trrs splitter.
Attached is an example. I don't recommend this exact one, just the first I found on mobile. https://www.amazon.com/CablesOnline-4-Position-3-Position-Splitter-IP-AY12C/dp/B00N03ZYUU
hmm, I have both of those for years now and never had this issue even with extensive usage (for a period of time, I had been using them for 6+ hours a day, even 12+ hours on weekends). I don't think there's anything you can with the Logitech pair, but I replaced the Steelseries earpads right away as they were too shallow for me and hurt my ears.
Replacing the Steelseries pads is no different than replacing it on other common headphones. You just pop them off and slip the new pads on. There is even a notch on the plastic cup so it's even easier to do than other headphones.
I use these on them: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MFDX4YO/ref
They also have pleather versions of you don't like velor or don't want to be arsed with cleaning the lint off the velor from time to time, but it is definitely cooler (temperature wise) and a lot more comfortable than the pleather version.
Anyway, they are a little tight (don't be afraid to apply force when putting these pads on) but fit perfectly without any trimming or anything. As I've said, all you have to do is use the notch on the cup and just spin the lip of the pad on the cup. If you are having issues, I suppose I could do a video or something, but should be simple enough.
EDIT: oh, and as for your headband, there are "replacements" for those too that you can snap over like these:
http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Leatherette-Universal-Sennheiser-Beyerdynamic/dp/B00862522A
http://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Sennheiser-Audio-Technica-Replacement-Protector/dp/B00OF71WWO
You can try to get Q701 used(cheaper) or K7xx used, and get a Fiio E10k to pair with. Also, you should buy this to get the best comfort.
Maybe one of these could help. I saw one in a m40x mod thread.
Here’re the exact stuff that i bought:
Geekria Headband cushion ($10.65) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010LD2U80?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Knitted Headphone Headband ($9.59) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OF71WWO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I didn’t bother gluing the cushion to the nuraphones band, the knitted headband wraps the cushion perfectly and holds it in place! Everything fits like a glove. It looks really cool too!
For the ear pads, high quality pleather pads like Brainwavz pads would last quite a bit longer and would be easier to clean. Not to mention more comfortable.
I have these. Just cut the spikes off carefully with a steak knife then add one of these http://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Sennheiser-Audio-Technica-Replacement-Protector/dp/B00OF71WWO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450728059&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=headphone+band
hm5 pads (22-25$) and the geekria headband (~10$)
Glad to hear you enjoy them. I have the same pads and they're solid. :) to solve the headband issue, I just bought a little knit headband and it has helped a lot!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OF71WWO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Overall, I agree with your impressions, and it's exciting that you get to explore more options now! My second set is the Fostex T20rp Mk3's and they are absolutely NOT neutral headphones, but golly they are my definition of "FUN"! They have "dat bass" due to the planar drivers. But they also have a lot of clarity in the upper ranges, lacking a bit in the mid range. Look 'em up!
X2's would also be awesome for that set of "fun" cans. It depends on what you're looking for I guess. I also had 400i's for some time, and those had amazing mid and upper range clarity with soundstage separation.
Anyway, let us know how your journey continues!
Each link below is a hangar for different setups. Choose one based on your preferred setup.
https://www.amazon.com/AmoVee-Acrylic-Headphone-Gaming-Headset/dp/B00SGW9QLS/ref=sr_1_39?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524337240&amp;sr=8-39&amp;keywords=headphone+hanger
https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-New-Earphone-Supporting-Headphones/dp/B01GJQ7N94/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524337194&amp;sr=8-15&amp;keywords=headphone+hanger
https://www.amazon.com/BRAINWAVZ-Hooka-Metal-Headphone-Hanger/dp/B01DNLLTIE/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524337194&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=headphone+hanger
https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Hanger-AmoVee-Acrylic-Under-Desk/dp/B01N76ASBS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524337194&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=headphone+hanger
Assuming you're in the US (Amazon links): black acrylic $12.80 or classic wood $21.35
I have that same headphone stand, here's the amazon link. AmoVee Acrylic Headphone Stand Gaming Headset Holder / Hanger - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SGW9QLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Xc6lzbMZ7DWRB 14 dollars and works great
I kinda want one of those curvy ones.
> P.S I know what yall are thinking, this is some rich fat kid that sits on his ass all day and needs everything perfect.
Didn't cross my mind at all but thanks for clarifying anyways. Had me worried.
http://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Peridot-Headphone-Stand-Suitable/dp/B00AE0IEHM
http://www.amazon.com/AmoVee-Acrylic-Headphone-Stand-Black/dp/B00SGW9QLS
http://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Hengja-Headphone-Desk-Hanger/dp/B012VIWG28
http://www.amazon.com/Anchor-Under-Desk-Headphone-Stand-Mount/dp/B00P31BMHG
Take your pick.
This acrylic stand
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SGW9QLS/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537800399&amp;sr=1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65
Thanks for that! Headphones are Astro A40s. And here's the stand: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SGW9QLS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505705830&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=headphone+stand&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41PhEBekr1L&amp;ref=plSrch
AmazonBasics 3.5mm Male to Female Stereo Audio Extension Adapter Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CNAUYBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CaTrDbTPQYNHB
> get a replacement cable for my HD688B, preferably a tangle-resistant one or even a coiled cable.
> Next step would be ditch the modmic and set up a USB mic with a cheap boom attached to my desk
Yep, that's a good solution, I've ditched my ModMic too and just bought the Blue Snowball ICE. The more expensive version with 3 pick up patterns is only worth the money if you want to record instruments or singing.
With regard to the 3,5mm extension cable for the Superlux...just get an Amazon basics one, they are cheap enough to just say fuck it and get a new one once the cable memory gets too annoying.
___
Now to the business side of things:
Rule 1
All requests for purchase advice, or any post that solicits product opinion, must be posted in the sticky thread!
You are very welcome to repost your question in the stickied daily purchase advice thread.
If you’re looking to save money or are attached to your current headphones, you could grab a cheap extension cable like this
More than $1 to be accurate. Just bought this in 12 ft https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B01CNAUYBY?crid=2I8VD8E75GWTW&amp;keywords=headphone%2Bextension%2Bcable&amp;qid=1538222527&amp;sprefix=headphone%2Bexte&amp;sr=8-3&amp;ref=mp_s_a_1_3&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
Sounds like you need an adapter and an extension?
This adapter should work from what I can tell from your description: https://www.amazon.com/L26-Female-Balanced-Output-Adapter/dp/B01N10RBPW
And then any headphone extender should work. Here's one: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B01CNAUYBY/ref=sr_1_3_acs_sk_pb_1_sl_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1538499634&sr=1-3-acs&keywords=headphone+cable
3.5* is tough to call "really nice".
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B01CNAUYBY/r
Amazon basic, Anker, Monoprice, etc. Lots of much better and more reviewed options out there.
If you end up having to use the back, pick up a high quality aux extension cable. I say high quality because I've had nothing but trouble from the low quality ones. Here is a good one from amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CNAUYBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_S2fMzb2Z97B78
I have some recommendations and suggestions. I know there's a lot of info, but you should know this if you want to get more value for your money. I ran out of space before I could cover everything, so just ask me if you have questions.
Headphones
---
The first thing you should determine is whether you need sound isolation or not.
&nbsp;
Next, you should figure out which sound signature you prefer.
Sub-bass is how deep the bass goes and is where rumble comes from.
Mid-bass is where impact/slam comes from.
Generally, for competitive shooters, as little bass as possible is favorable because bass overpowers or overshadows footsteps and other sound cues.
&nbsp;
Lastly, you should know what sound characteristics constitute positional audio and pertain to immersion.
&nbsp;
Personal headphone recommendations:
has recessed sub-bass and emphasized treble. Has clean bass and a little harsh treble. Has a huge soundstage, excellent imaging, separation and clarity, and great detail retrieval.
has recessed sub-bass, emphasized mid-bass, and very emphasized treble. Has clean bass and a little splashy or overly sparkly treble. Has a huge soundstage and excellent imaging, separation, clarity and detail retrieval.
has emphasized sub-bass, mid-bass and treble. Has clean bass and smooth treble. The soundstage is very wide, like the others I've mentioned, but it lacks some depth. It's probably only noticeable if you play competitively or compare it side-by-side with headphones that are deeper. This affects the imaging from front to back. The imaging from left to right is excellent. Separation and clarity are excellent. Detail retrieval is great, but bass overpowers sound cues a lot.
is mid-forward and has recessed sub-bass. Has clean bass, smooth treble, and excellent clarity. I haven't used it much, so my impressions are that it has a large soundstage and good imaging, separation and detail retrieval.
I also compare to AKG K52, AKG Q701, Audeze LCD-2 Classic, HiFiMan HE400i (the revision), HiFiMan HE-500, HyperX Cloud, Monoprice Monolith M1060, Philips SHP9500, Sennheiser HD700, Sennheiser HD800, Superlux HD662 EVO, Superlux HD668B, Superlux HD669, Superlux HD681 EVO, Tritton Pro+ and Turtle Beach Ear Force XP Seven.
My evaluations are based on games, not music. I test headphones mostly in BF:BC2, BF3, BF4 and R6S.
&nbsp;
Alternatives:
Open-back
Closed-back
&nbsp;
Microphones
---
Attachable to headphones
Alternatives
&nbsp;
Setup
---
Antlion ModMic and Massdrop Minimic are compatible with all headphones.
V-MODA BoomPro is compatible with Philips Fidelio X2 and V-MODA Crossfade M-100 of the aforementioned headphones.
&nbsp;
You can connect the headphone and mic to the PS4 by using an audio USB adapter. The one I linked has separate jacks for the headphone and mic, so in order to use it with V-MODA BoomPro, you need a Y-splitter, which is included with the mic. The other 3.5mm mics have an own cable, so there's no need for a Y-splitter.
USB mics, like AT2020USB, Snowball and Yeti, connect directly to the PS4.
If the cables aren't long enough, then just use an aux extension cable or a USB extension cable.
&nbsp;
The PS4 isn't capable of powering all headphones sufficiently, so you may need a sound card or a headphone amplifier and a DAC (digital-to-analog converter). A Sound card has an amp and a DAC built in and sacrifice sound quality for features. You need a DAC because USB and optical are digital signals and PS4 has no analog outputs. There's a common problem with reversed left and right channels when using USB DACs, so I'll only list DACs with optical. I'll only list USB sound cards that officially support PS4.
Power isn't just impedance dependent, it's also sensitivity dependent, which many new to this hobby overlook. If a headphone has a low impedance rating and a high sensitivity rating, it will be very easy to drive. If a headphone has a high impedance rating and a high sensitivity rating, it should be easy to drive. If a headphone has a high impedance rating and a low sensitivity rating, it will be hard to drive. If a headphone has a low impedance rating and a low sensitivity rating, it will be very hard to drive.
There's no consensus on where 'high' impedance starts at. I've read/heard anywhere from 50 ohms to 300 ohms. For sensitivity, there are two different measurements used for this: SPL/mW and SPL/V. 100 dB SPL/mW and 110 SPL/V are considered high.
If you don't want to ever deal with this, then I recommend just getting a very powerful sound card or amp, e.g. Creative Sound BlasterX G5 or Schiit Magni 3.
Audio-Technica ATH-AD700X, Philips Fidelio X2 and Sennheiser HD598 are very loud for me out of the controller or by using an audio USB adapter. The 600-ohm version of Beyerdynamic DT990 is too quiet.
Mics generally don't work with amps, so you'll have to connect it to an audio USB adapter, or to the controller with a TRRS Y-splitter. You recognize them by the three black rings on their connector. You need to use the included Y-splitter with V-MODA BoomPro.
With a sound card, you can use both the headphone and mic with it. You need a TRRS Y-splitter if the mic has a separate cable.
To connect a separate amp to a DAC, you need RCA cables.
Sound cards:
Amps and DACs:
It's surprising that you don't have a headphone jack in the back of your desktop. In any event a 3.5mm male to female cable would work. Plug the male end into the front of your desktop, run the female end around the the rear of your PC, plug the headphone plug into the female end and the mic plug into your PC.
You can get one of them at walmart for like $5 or less.
What are you plugging the headphones in to. Is it the front jack or back jack of your computer. I think the issue is the jack you are plugging them into. Not all plugs are the same. One option is a headphone extension lead and see if that makes any difference then you'll know it the plug on your headphones that isn't quite sitting correctly.
This is the easiest solution, and it's what I do.
Her is one example. It's only 6 bucks.
AmazonBasics 3.5mm Male to Female Stereo Audio Cable - 6 Feet (1.83 Meters)
Smaller jack is 2.5mm, so a 2.5mm to 3.5mm adapter, and then two 3.5mm extensions would you let you plug it into your PC.
The mic might not work, radio mics are designed to pass voltage through to trigger the radio to key up remotely, PC soundcard might not allow enough current to pass for the mic to function. Or it might be fine, either way, less than 20 bucks to find out.
I actually did that instructables mod, but I spliced in the female side of this adapter so I could connect a normal aux cord to it:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNAUYBY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It's not hard at all, and seems to work pretty well. You just have to control the volume on your phone since it doesn't auto-mute.
Then you probably need an adapter like THIS because the headset wire has both the headphone and microphone parts combined.
The adapter splits the two signals. You plug one in your PC headphone jack and the other in your PC microphone or level in jack.
They'll work as headphones, yeah. If you want to use the mic on them too you'll have to get a splitter like this one
Yup, there are many splitters like this one you can use. KINGTOP Headset Splitter Cable 3.5mm Female to 2 Male for PC Computer and Old Version Laptop https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I3A47KM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ywDXCb5G0K4K6
You need this kind of adapter to split the headphone and mic into the two ports on the laptop:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I3A47KM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_z6XcBbS26E9M0
according to reviews, this seems like a great Y splitter.
https://www.amazon.com/Dongle-Dangler-headphone-accessory-key-chain/dp/B01MSYT8HH
I've been looking into buying this. Hope this helps you.
This is a big help
Dongle Dangler - 3.5mm headphone adapter keychain for iPhone 7, iPhone 7 Plus, iPhone 8, iPhone X, Google Pixel 2 and more. (Chrome 1-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSYT8HH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-rn3Ab710GCHE
Dongle Dangler - 3.5mm headphone adapter keychain for iPhone 7, iPhone 7 Plus, iPhone 8, iPhone X, Google Pixel 2 and more. (Chrome 1-Pack)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSYT8HH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2lJZAbQ63H6R4
This is purpose built for exactly this purpose:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSYT8HH
If you find one you like you might pick up the piece that connects your dongle to your key ring.
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/Dongle-Dangler-Keychain-Accessory-Compatible/dp/B01MSYT8HH
Update on this in case anyone finds this thread later. Getting replacement pads for the ATH-M50x was a great idea. I ended up getting these on Amazon for $22. Huge difference with the new pads...way more comfortable and better isolation.
I also ordered a pair of AIAIAI cans, arriving in a few days. I'll report back on those too.
I have bought these both of these for my Arctis 9x and I can recommend both are more comfortable than the stock ear pads.
Upgraded Replacement Ear Pads for Audio Technica ATH M50X - Also Compatible with M50XBT / M50 / M40X / M40 / Turtle Beach/HyperX/Sennheiser and More (Full List Inside) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075M4TRWR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YBmpDbCSBSQ5H
I prefer the pu leather over the velour because they keep better sound isolation from background noise and I feel they are cooler than the velour.
Brainwavz Gaming Earpads for SteelSeries Arctis, HyperX Cloud & Other Gaming Headsets, ATH M50X, SHURE & Other Headphones (See List), Cooling Gel, Memory Foam, Micro Suede, Oval Ear Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S8N8S62/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7KmpDbSST737D
The Brainwavz are not as cushiony as the Wicked Cushions but they still more comfortable than stock. These cushions are really cool and probably my favorite out of all the ear pads I’ve tried. And I’ve tried all 3 types of the Steelseries ear pads.
Upgraded Replacement Ear Pads for Audio Technica ATH M50X - Also Compatible with M50/M40X/M40/Sony MDR/Monoprice 8328 and Many More Oval Shaped Headphones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075M4TRWR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zklYBb1MR7BX4
By the way, why did you choose that particular brand over, say, these?
I ordered these. They work pretty well on the pro wireless. Upgraded Replacement Ear Pads for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075M4TRWR?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Replacement-Pads-Audio-Technica/dp/B075M4TRWR
Also if you check the reviews for the arctis pro wireless on amazon mine is like the 10th newest one and has a photo of them with the pads installed. They look, feel, fit, and sound so much better lol
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B079YBKT3H/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_viewopt_srt?sortBy=recent&amp;pageNumber=1
I used these. They fit well. One thing to consider is that because the ear cushions have more padding and extend further out, then the headband will extend further to compensate when it's on your head. So if you have a larger head it might cause the band to be tighter. For me, my head wasn't the problem it was my ears, so keep that in mind if you have both a larger head and ears.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075M4TRWR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Just hit this point on my m50x's, can not recommend these replacements enough. Even more comfortable than the original ear-cups.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075M4TRWR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/HIDIZS-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Smartphone/dp/B07F2DTTGT/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?keywords=usb+c+to+3.5+mm+built+in+dac&amp;qid=1565652833&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-16
There are cheaper options but this is what I use and it works great so far.
Can't speak on the 6S since I don't have the phone, but I've found the sound a lot better on my OP7Pro compared to my OP3. I use to have to run Viper4AndroidFX on my OP3 to get it to where I thought sounded good. With OP7Pro I don't have any additional equalizer other than stuff built into PowerAmp.
This is the USB-C -> 3.5mm Adapter I use. Look for one that mentions one of those phones (Huawei P20 Pro/Mate 10 Pro/Mate 20 Pro, Motorola Moto Z/Z Force, OnePlus 6T, Xiaomi Mi 8/Mix 2). All those phones support audio pass-through for the adapter. There is two adapters out there right now. One that does pass-through and one that has a DAC built-in. Normally the ones with the built-in DAC are not great unless you go to the high-end ones like the Hidizs Sonata HD.
Then I have Dolby Atmos set to None and in Poweramp I have DVC and Hi-Res Output on
As others have already explained that analog passthrough is not an option, just be aware that the DACs (and associated circuitry) built into most active USB-C-to-headphone adapters are pretty bad thus far.
I've heard better things about the HIDIZS Sonata , but have not personally used it.
I would suggest this. Extremely great quality to come out of this type of cable. I have a nice pair of v-moda Crossfade LP²s and it's a great matxhup https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2DTTGT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OzhSDbA33KWPM
Cancel that too on order the best cable DAC in the world: HIDIZS Portable Headphone Amplifier USB Type C DAC Headphone Amp for Android/Windows/MacOSX System Smartphone Laptop (Mark II) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2DTTGT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FaJZDbVCKCQYB
The sound difference is huge
I have one of these and I can confirm it works with my Tab S6 no problem:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07F2DTTGT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
It might be a bit more expensive than you're looking for though.
If you're an audiophile then try out the Hidizs USB-C to 3.5 DAC. This isn't just an adapter, it's a full fledged DAC:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F2DTTGT/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=johngaltgroup-20&linkId=624b3dce91178f0d3633db132eecdb36&language=en_US
&#x200B;
I tried it with Sennheiser IE80 and it was a night and day difference. Note: You'll need to update it's firmware which is a bit nutty but if you follow instructions in the amazon reviews its not hard.
[White Velvet Earpads] (http://www.amazon.com/ATH-M50xWH-EARPADS-ATH-M50xWH-headphones-ATH-M50RD-ATH-M50WH/dp/B00M6G4H00/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418362788&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=m50+pads)
[Black Velvet Earpads] (http://www.amazon.com/ATH-M50-PADS-VELVET-ATH-M50RD-ATH-M50WH-ATH-M50xBL-ATH-M50xWH/dp/B00F2ZM6CS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418362788&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=m50+pads)
Brown Velvet Earpads
[Black Velour Memory Foam Pads] (http://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Velor-Memory-Replacements-Earpads/dp/B00MFDX4YO/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418362788&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=m50+pads)
[Dark Red/Red/White/Brown High Quality Pleather Pads] (http://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Foam-Earpads/dp/B00OLKV5LI/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418362788&amp;sr=8-11&amp;keywords=m50+pads)
https://www.amazon.com/ATH-M50-PADS-VELVET-ATH-M50RD-ATH-M50WH-ATH-M50xBL-ATH-M50xWH/dp/B00F2ZM6CS
I wear mine for long periods of time and don't have much trouble with pressure on my ears but they get flushed and hot easily so I picked up a pair of these ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F2ZM6CS/ref=pd_aw_sims_9?pi=SS115&amp;simLd=1) and I have to say they are comfortable as hell. I think if you had any problem with the stock pads these would help.
I recommend replacement ear pads. This was uncomfortable as shit because i wore computer glasses underneath and have a fat head. This mostly fixed the problem : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F2ZM6CS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Worth the purchase. From what i understand, these headphones still have a thicker bass than other entry level headphones, which really depends on your music preference.
You'll need an adapter if your headphones are ones that are a one-cable design. The ports on PCs are meant for separate audio/mic, not both in one.
Use this cable https://www.amazon.com/Sound-Blaster-Audio-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00GNHSL8C/
Yes, there are audio mic splitters. They look like this https://www.amazon.com/Sound-Blaster-Audio-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00GNHSL8C but you can probably find them cheaper
https://www.amazon.com/Sound-Blaster-Audio-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00GNHSL8C
Wouldn't something like this be a better option?
If the end of your headset has 3 rings on it, like so. You'll need an Audio and Mic splitter.
I think this is what you would need. If you need an extension, here is an extension
Okay, issue located! Get an audio/mic splitter adapter (something like this) and use that to plug your Turtle Beach headset into both the headphone jack and the microphone jack. Then you should be able to hear and speak at the same time. Plug the headset into the female/receiving end and plug the male end with the microphone on it into the microphone jack, and the male end with the headset on it into the headset jack.
Here we go:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor | $159.99 @ Micro Center
Motherboard | ASRock Fatal1ty Z97X Killer ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $102.99 @ Newegg
Memory | Patriot Viper 3 Low Profile Blue 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $67.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $109.97 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $53.95 @ Amazon
Video Card | MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card | $349.99 @ NCIX US
Case | Zalman Z11 Plus ATX Mid Tower Case | $44.99 @ Micro Center
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $49.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Acer GN246HL 144Hz 24.0" Monitor | $225.00 @ Newegg
Keyboard | ROCCAT Ryos MK Wired Gaming Keyboard | $69.99 @ Micro Center
Mouse | ROCCAT Kone Pure Wired Laser Mouse | $39.99 @ Amazon
Headphones | Creative Labs Aurvana Live! 2 Headset | $111.55 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1386.39
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-28 21:25 EDT-0400 |
This would be my basic recommendation. You'll note that it doesn't go the maximum limit of your budget. Should you wish to overclock (or think you might want to at some point), an unlocked i5 runs [$40 more than that i5 at Microcenter] (http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80646i54690k). Indeed, in combo with a less optimal motherboard, [it barely even costs more] (http://www.microcenter.com/site/brands/intel-processor-bundles.aspx). You'd need to add an aftermarket CPU cooler if that was the case, however, which would run between $15 and $70 for an air cooler (which would be advisable, unless you're really into overclocking and want to throw $200+ at liquid).
You could also put more into case, additional monitors for multitasking, or invest in superior headphones. This said, if none of those massively appeal to you, my recommendation would be to save the money for a second 970 down the road. A single 970 is a solid card, and maxing out 1080p at 60FPS in most games shouldn't be an issue, but you'll need to cut settings a bit to enjoy the glory of 144hz, which a second card would fix.
I should note that the mouse is there primarily as a placeholder of approximately the price a good most costs (though I've heard positive things about the Kone itself). Mouse selection is very much dependent on grip style and your hand itself, so I recommend trying out mice yourself to find one that will work well for you hand.
The headphones are a fairly subjective choice, but the since the CAL! 2s are the headphones that made me start liking EDM, I do tend to recommend them to people for it. They're [excessively comfortable] (http://theheadphonelist.com/headphone-review/creative-aurvana-live-2/), with quite solid sound, and an in-line mic and one-button controller. They do have the mild drawback of requiring a [splitter] (http://www.amazon.com/Sound-Blaster-Audio-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00GNHSL8C) for use with any system which has audio input and output through dual TRS jacks, however, as the cable terminates in a single TRRS jack to better support mobile usage. The silver lining of that element is that they can be used as a phone headset in addition to a PC headset.
This said, with as much spare budget as you (potentially) have, you could get significantly higher-fi headphones should you so desire. That would also require a separate mic, but there are a [number] (http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ) [of] (http://v-moda.com/boompro-microphone/) [options] (http://www.modmic.com/) in that regard, should you wish to go down that road.
Is it a single jack? or split for audio/mic? I'm unfamiliar with those headphones, but I use 3.5mm jacks for 1 of my headphones, it requires 2; one for audio, another for mic, you might need to buy a splitter.
That being said have they ever worked on the computer? Cause if they have without a splitter, you wouldnt need one.
As for testing without realtek software, headsets are literally plug and play. If it was the USB Atlas, the driver would be included (TBH, I probably should have asked the connection before I recommended removing realtek, but reinstalling drivers are always a good option).
edit: A more user friendly splitter
You need a mic splitter like this
Sound Blaster Audio Mic Splitter Adapter
http://www.amazon.com/Sound-Blaster-Audio-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00GNHSL8C
One side goes too your headphones other side loops back into your capture card!?
Budget: I would like it to be <$150
Source: PC, iPhone 6
Isolation: idk
Preferred Type: earbuds w/mic
Preferred Balance: idk
Preferred Music: EDM, hip-hop
Past Headphones: iPhone headphones
Basically I am looking for something to replace my iPhone headphones. I want earbuds like the iPhone headphones, but better quality. I use the headphones for phone calls and use the mic for online gaming. I recently built a PC and it has a separate audio jack for audio and mic, and I cannot figure out how to get the mic to work for my iPhone headphones with the PC (motherboard if it helps). I have something like this which I bought but it still doesnt let me use the iPhone headphones as a mic.
I found this which is an option I guess, but I won't be able to use the mic for the iPhone. Is there a product that will work with my PC and iPhone to function as headphones and mic?
Edit: Should I try a different audio mic splitter adapter? Maybe this one?
An amp will definitely fix the volume and bass impact, but most don't have a mic input so you'll have to get a splitter for the boompro. If you just want to use it with the PC the E10k acts as an external soundcard as well as amp, but the A3 has a battery so you could use that with your phone on the go. If you want virtual surround a soundcard like a Soundblaster Z or external soundcard like the Xonar U7 would work.
Get a splitter. You plug the headset into the splitter and it has cords for both audio and mic. Here is an example.
I had headphones that had 1 plug for both but it came with a splitter so you can choose to use either the mic or the headset. By splitter I mean something like this (with a bit of research you can probably find a lot cheaper) https://www.amazon.com/Sound-Blaster-Audio-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00GNHSL8C
Does this cable exist? Mini-XLR to dual 3.5mm cable with built-in microphone. I have some AKG K240 headphones and I'd like to use them as a gaming headset, but I need a mic. I know I could get a tiny mic and somehow attach it to the headphones and run 2 cables, but I was wondering if anyone makes a cable that is Mini XLR (like for the K240s) and then has an in-line mic built-in, with a split for 2x 3.5mm plugs on the end.
I found this which is very close but I'd need 2 3.5mm plugs since my computer (custom desktop i just built) and my speakers (logitech z5500) both have separate headphone and mic jacks, and apparently neither support the combined headphones+mic 3.5mm plug (like most phones do). I know I can also just get that cable and then split it with something like this but if there was cable all in one that would be awesome.
I am looking into buying my first pair of nice headphones to replace my gaming headset. I currently use a Logitech G930 which is nice but doesnt have the sound quality I thought it did (recently tried a friend's nice pair of sennheiser headphones and was blown away at the difference. I cant recall model right now, sorry). I looked in the buying guide on the sidebar and picked out the CAL! 2. I plan on using them at home on my gaming computer and on my phone/laptop for music. It having a built in mic is also a bonus.
I have 3 questions regarding my situation.
Just need a mic splitter cable. Like this one for example and one goes to headphone out the other to mic in.
Before buying a new mic, try something like a trrs to double trs adapter like this:
https://www.amazon.com/CablesOnline-4-Position-3-Position-Splitter-IP-AY12C/dp/B00N03ZYUU. Plug one end in the audio jack and the other in the mic jack. Though not that specific one, as this very expensive for a simple cable. Search for one on ebay (can't post ebay links).
https://www.amazon.com/CablesOnline-4-Position-3-Position-Splitter-IP-AY12C/dp/B00N03ZYUU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523139883&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=female+trrs+to+male+trs
Would this one work?
Yeah the originals do not need it, since they don't even have a microphone. You'll need something like this, I think. You have to separate the microphone signal from the audio signal and connect it to a separate sound card that does support mic input.
Here
Yes, if you get a special TRRS to 2xTRS splitter that has pink and green plugs (or otherwise denotes headphone and mic plugs), and is compatible with your phone headphones (basically Apple vs nearly everybody else).
You want one like this
It depends if your headset has a TRRS connector or a TRS connector.
Therefore... a TRRS connector has two rings.
Assuming you have a TRRS connector... you can get something like this to split it out into two 3.5mm TRS male connectors.
I should also note that many devices support 3.5mm TRRS headsets. For example... most cell phones, most modern Macintosh computers, the Dualshock 4 (PS4 controller), etc. etc.
---
If your headset has a TRS connector, then it is a mono headset. But those are fairly uncommon.
You might be able to use something like this also: https://www.amazon.com/CablesOnline-4-Position-3-Position-Splitter-IP-AY12C/dp/B00N03ZYUU
I haven't tested that personally but I preferred the USB sound card option so i can still output to my speakers and headphones separately.
TRRS is 4 pole cable, TRS is 3 pole. Most phone headphones are 4 pole due to including an integrated microphone. Most PCs need this type of cable split into two TRS cables, one for Line-out/headphones and another for Line-in/Microphone.
My guess is that this is the problem. However there are two standards for TRRS cables; CTIA and OMTP.
You can buy splitter, but need to know the standard used.
https://www.amazon.com/CablesOnline-4-Position-3-Position-Splitter-IP-AY12C/dp/B00N03ZYUU
Ah of course it would be reverse because one goes into two, not two into one. My bad! So it would be something more like this then? https://www.amazon.com/CablesOnline-4-Position-3-Position-Splitter-IP-AY12C/dp/B00N03ZYUU
The dongle is super frustrating, especially because it seems to work perfectly when plugged into my Surface Pro. Can't figure out the difference between it and my PC other than when I plug it into the Surface pro the device shows up in "sound, video and game controllers" rather than "other devices" in device manager - and of course doesn't have the yellow exclamation mark of needing drivers
If you're using apple headphones try these.
https://www.amazon.com/CablesOnline-4-Position-3-Position-Splitter-IP-AY12C/dp/B00N03ZYUU
Are you talking about something like this? You plug a cell-phone style headphone+mic jack into the female end, and you get a vanilla headphone and vanilla mic plug out.
https://www.amazon.com/CablesOnline-4-Position-3-Position-Splitter-IP-AY12C/dp/B00N03ZYUU
Something like this?
You need an adapter like this. Each of the rings on the jack are a channel. Left, Right, Mic, and Common. So those headphones that have a built in mic have 4 rings.
Your Headphone jack only has 2 rings, left and right. Mic jack too. The reason why your laptop and phone will work is because it has rings with all what is technically 4 channels in it. Your desktop does not have this, it has two seperate jacks. This adapter combines them into one jack so you can use your heaphones with the mic.
Can you use a female TRRS to dual male TRS adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/CablesOnline-4-Position-3-Position-Splitter-IP-AY12C/dp/B00N03ZYUU
Assuming your computer has a 3.5mm Mic input you should be able to get an adaptor like this. If you want a separate better quality microphone the best option would probably be a modmic.
I'll update the main post too but I ended up buying the knit headband cover that /u/Axersia recommended in gray.
I would recommend the large size as a replacement though. The medium fits but it has a mild busting-at-the-seams look.
Put a nice little sweater on it :3
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OF71WWO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_z4Vmxb5V4VHS4
Maybe you can get a pilot pad and slap it on top there. Or a cheaper option like this or this.
as far as earpads, i hear hm5 ones are popular... but siblance and bass reduction might be an issue. If you really care a lot about the sound qual coming out of m50's for monitoring/whatever, just buy replacement stock pads.
these + headphone cover because some reviews say headband can be uncomfortable after like six hours.
Thanks for sharing such a detailed step-by-step guide for everyone to see, u/jwilson0199 :D !
u/LordDaniel09, it's not really hard, but it does require some patients. Please be aware that doing any modification like this will void the warranty (in case you still have one). As for headbands, these seem to be a good fit by looking at them, but because we haven't personally tested them, take this suggestion with a grain of salt ;) . Also, these are only good if your headband cushion is ripped, and you want to cover it up for cosmetic reasons haha.
Due to the size of the ear pads (huge in a great way) they’re very comfortable, but the headband that rests on the top of your head could be a bit more cushioned, as it is pretty hard. This is easily remedied with extra cushion pads such as this for a cheap option, or this if you want something higher quality for a bit more buck.
One other thing worth mentioning, they do seem to leak a decent amount of noise, so if you plan on using these on public transport, keep the volume low.
Is this the one https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Sennheiser-Audio-Technica-Replacement-Protector/dp/B00OF71WWO
The headband is a Sennheiser foam pad ziptied to the band and then i use a knitted cover to hide it. Its much better than stock and I don't really notice it so its something you could try if you feel the headphone is too heavy. Plus you could wash the cover because hygiene.
https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-Foam-Headband-HD600-HD580/dp/B00J80IMJ4
https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Sennheiser-Audio-Technica-Replacement-Protector/dp/B00OF71WWO
Personally, I just bought this.
I filled it with cotton filling to add more comfort though.
I'm not really sure what "I feel like I'm raising too much weight in my head" means - because the DT 990 Pro is 100G lighter than the Hyper X Cloud.
If you're simply talking about them being uncomfortable, I doubt a headband change would make a difference. I own both the Pro and the Premium / Edition versions...and the difference in headbands is negligible. If anything, the Pro version feels slightly more padded.
Maybe you can try moving them around and wearing them differently, since you're coming from a gaming headset with oval ear cups and don't have to compensate for microphone positioning.
If that doesn't help, maybe try one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Sennheiser-Audio-Technica-Replacement-Protector/dp/B00OF71WWO/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483185118&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=headphone+headband
Good luck.
Thanks for your relpy.
Bassy music is not my main goal but if I listened to that type of music how would it be on the K702? I know in comparison to the DT990 it would be blown out of the water, but is there really nothing down there? And how is the comfort on those k702? Because those ribbles seem to become uncomfortable after an hour or so. Would a headband cover like these work?
Also What amp would I need for the k702? Preferably under 80 euros.
What type of cord is it? I might look into this for my m40x. I used this to fix it but may switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OF71WWO/ref=ya_st_dp_summary
\> The main problem was the headband.
&#x200B;
I much improved comfort by buying headband cover from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OF71WWO
It doesn't look cool though.
this thing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OF71WWO/
Just something basic from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/AmoVee-Acrylic-Headphone-Gaming-Headset/dp/B00SGW9QLS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518537827&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=amovee+headphones
get something like this and a couple of these for the controllers and it becomes a really awesome setup. Well, it's already awesome, just needs some tidying up.
you liked my idea then :)
1- https://www.amazon.com/AmoVee-Acrylic-Headphone-Stand-Black/dp/B00SGW9QLS
2- https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Headphone-Sennheiser-Audio-Technica-Headphones/dp/B01A09KCJ4
Here's a similarly shaped one in black on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SGW9QLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aio.ybN7NB25G
The stand the Fostex are on
The stand the AKG are on (Fire S Audio Headphone Stand is the name in case you can't access the massdrop link)
The stand the Phillips are on
https://www.amazon.com/AmoVee-Acrylic-Headphone-Gaming-Headset/dp/B00SGW9QLS/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1550628256&sr=8-9&keywords=headset+stand
&#x200B;
$12 on amazon.
I suggest taking off the box that style only works with certain setups and yours isn't one of them sorry. Just don't throw it away you'll never know when you will need it. As for something else try to stick with one color or colors that compliment each other I don't know if you have the ability to get a new desk at the moment but the colors don't match.
Edit: I assume the top of the desk can come off I recommend painting that black.
Edit#2: I recommend getting a headset stand like this one.
AmoVee Acrylic Headphone Stand Gaming Headset Holder / Hanger, Extra Thick - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SGW9QLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SZGKzbWFY1DH3
AmoVee Acrylic Headphone Stand - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SGW9QLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZwmkybDRV15F7
AmoVee Acrylic Headphone Stand Gaming Headset Holder / Hanger, Extra Thick - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SGW9QLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_39I-AbDXQC6R0
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SGW9QLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Does a decent job, I'm looking into other options currently, something a bit more sturdy/a bit taller maybe.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SGW9QLS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503274175&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=headset+stand&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41PhEBekr1L&amp;ref=plSrch
I use that, it's a good stand for headphones
I'm assuming you have 2 cables -- 1 for headphones, one for mic.
You'd need a long bit of shrinkwrap big enough to go around both (or just zip-tie them every few feet). Without seeing your headphones, I'll have to stick to generalities. ;)
For the extensions, you just use something like:
https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B01CNAUYBY/
(The mic is probably just a mono version of that).
Plug the extensions into your computer. Route the wires to front of desk. Then use something to mount the ends nicely under the front of your desk. Could just tape them together and use some nylon strapping to hold the ends in place (easy way) or could make a nice wood or other enclosure to hold them.
Would this solution work? It lists the length at 1 meter (3.3 feet).
https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-3-5mm-Jack-Adapter-CTIA/dp/B071V61PB8
You can add an extension if it's still too short.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B01CNAUYBY
You don't need to but a new set of headphones at all, you can buy an extension like this and plug it up to the back
Or you could try something like this which would allow you to stay connected in the front. It works by removing the ground which is causing all of the static.
Can you use a different AUX cord to check if that is the issue? This adapter might also help as I think your headphone's aux cord is permanently attached.
To answer your question, I really don't know, other than contacting DeepCool or searching eBay.
That said, a workaround would be to purchase a 3.5mm extension cable and run it from the headphone jack on the back of your case:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B01CNAUYBY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510219074&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=3.5mm+extension
hey man shit happens. if you don't want to go through the trouble of taking it apart and RMA the case, just buy a 3.5mm cable extenstion and plug it in using the back motherboard plug you already said that works.
I can recommend you to buy a USB Audio adapter and plug it to the PS4 and a Headphone jack extender
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CNAUYBY
&nbsp;
two of these.
Some modern TVs have a 3.5mm headphone jack located somewhere among the ports. You could buy a 3.5mm extender cable and listen via headphones. Depending on your platform, you may be able to route the audio both your controller and your TV. Then you could listen through the headphones and down down the TV volume. You'd have to play around with your TV and console audio settings, though.
Question for you: That box that the red connector is for. Does it do anything for you (like do you have speakers or something hooked up)? Or are you literally just using earbuds when using the computer? Because if you're just using earbuds (like standard 3.5mm headphones or whatever) then you can likely just get an audio extension cable like this one and just plug that in where, in your video, the green connection is. And then plug your earbuds into that.
If you need one that also supports your earbud's mic, then get something like this and it'll do the same thing (The headphone icon one would go into the green port, the mic one goes into the red port).
Yeah! Honestly I totally agree. I bought a PS4 to play the new spiderman game and it was definitely frustrating when I started my stream to have viewers say that there was no game audio.
I just used a headphone audio/microphone splitter cable i got with my headset and plugged in directly into my external monitor speakers and it works great. Heck some monitors even have a head phone jack directly into the monitor itself so if that's an option try that.
Something like this should work if you dont have anything https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B01CNAUYBY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536790471&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=headphone+extension+cable
well that is annoying... I mean it is rare but it might be busted, at least you know your sound card is fine because it still works with the rear I/Os
might want to invest in something like this ;) https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B01CNAUYBY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492891747&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=audio+extension+cable
Use something like this, but something shorter. 2 sec search will find you the correct size
&#x200B;
3.5mm Male to Female Stereo Audio Cable
https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B01CNAUYBY/ref=asc_df_B01CNAUYBY/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=205210909091&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1389537188569501411&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006914&hvtargid=pla-360812669204&psc=1&th=1&psc=1
So that speaker system has 3 inputs: 1 RCA (red/white) and 2 headphone jack. With your three devices, assuming your TV has no audio out, you can connect each device via RCA cable, headphone cable, or an adapter for one to the other, to those three inputs on the speaker system, for your cheapest possible solution. So a mix of these cables should do, hopefully? Let us know what you think:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73MUQ/ref=zg_bs_597566_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=77XCX74SBHRRD7D85Q1V
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/ref=zg_bs_597566_6?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=77XCX74SBHRRD7D85Q1V
https://www.amazon.com/MOCREO-Splitter-1-Mini-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B015J4OKZW/ref=zg_bs_597546_11?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=2Q1JZS2CEWWGYGWWCR6R
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K/ref=zg_bs_597546_19?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=2Q1JZS2CEWWGYGWWCR6R
EDIT: and here's some extensions also, in case you grab any of the above and they're too short:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B01CNAUYBY/ref=sr_1_3?s=aht&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481742465&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=headphone+extension
https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-6-Feet-Cblwhl-Extension-10R1-02206/dp/B000I1GZ0U/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481742502&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=rca+extension
EDIT 2: Can you send us the brand/model # of your TV so we can check out the inputs/outputs? Thanks!
You need an adapter to split the TRRS connector on your headset to a TRS headphones and TRS mic jack.
Like this.
You need an audio splitter for a headset like that to work. They are like $5 on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I3A47KM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_HJHyIlcvynzTY
Grab a microphone splitter cable with 2 males and one female. Link
If it has a combo jack (the kind of jack used on a lot of smartphones, for example) then it can work. If yours has separate headphone and mic jacks then you'll need a headset splitter cable to use it.
You might need to install Asio4All in order to get it working right, though. It's been so long since I've tried this that I can't say for sure.
You could get an adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/KINGTOP-Headset-Splitter-Computer-Version/dp/B01I3A47KM?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_9
But be careful if you are using Apple earbuds as the positioning of the ground and mic is different (linked adapter doesn’t work for Apple buds).
As an example: https://www.amazon.com/KingTop-Headset-Splitter-Computer-Version/dp/B01I3A47KM/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_tr_t_3/131-0097483-2778019?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=15V8849FXBJJR8J1DYQQ
I got a message my other comment was deleted, so let me try again.
Gotcha. There is this one that separates the mic and headphones. And here is another with Prime shipping.
Something like this might work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I3A47KM/
But afaik there are two versions of the 4pin 3.5mm jack.
Not sure what the the PS4 uses.
Looks like you need one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/KINGTOP-Headset-Splitter-Computer-Version/dp/B01I3A47KM/
It might be a common issue with these headphones. One of my friend had static noise ONLY the dongle. I've heard some people have issue without the dongle.
I had a similar issue with Cloud I that doesn't have the dongle. Fixed it by installing a random sound card i had lying around, i didn't even plug the audio jacks into the soundcard, no clue why it fixed it. Also i noticed the static noise was only present when my foot was near the PSU power cable.
I don't think there are many fixes to it other than trying different ports in front and back of your case or maybe try buying extra PCI USB card or usb hub or something like that (it may or may not fix). You can also try rereouting some of your cables in and out of pc. Or you could ditch the dongle and buy a audio jack splitter, something similar to that one: https://www.amazon.com/KINGTOP-Headset-Splitter-Computer-Version/dp/B01I3A47KM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=headset+splitter&qid=1554846811&s=gateway&sr=8-3 . You will lose 7.1 surround but most people say that the surround isnt that great anyways and they prefer stereo.
Thanks for the reply, and sorry for the delay. I've been slammed at work and haven't really had a ton of time to troubleshoot.
&#x200B;
I did a few more troubleshooting steps, taking your advice to try with a headset that does not require a splitter. I was also previously using an extender cable which I forgot to mention that was greatly making things worse, although it wasn't the sole source of the problem. Here are my findings:
&#x200B;
I would say that there is almost no difference between the single plug headset + splitter and the double plug headset. So ranking everything in terms of what is causing feedback from most to least:
&#x200B;
So it seems like my options are:
&#x200B;
However, I have yet to find a way to completely eliminate feedback. So still looking for any help that anyone has to offer.
People ridiculed me when I did this to mine, but I’ve had my adapter never fall out since for two reasons:
https://imgur.com/gallery/JtJpw
Dongle Dangler - 3.5mm headphone adapter keychain for iPhone 7, iPhone 7 Plus, iPhone 8, iPhone X, Google Pixel 2 and more. (Chrome 1-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSYT8HH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5kIIAbVGP4SHT
> i wish they had some kind of keychain connector
You can make one really easily. Just take the male end of a 3.5mm jack and put it on a key ring. Alternatively, you can buy one.
The "Dongle Dangler" ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
Disclaimer: Removing the jack was dumb as hell and the #1 reason why I didn't get a 2XL.
I've seen other redditors post links to something like this:
Dongle Dangler - iPhone 7 headphone dongle accessory keychain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSYT8HH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wDUcAbGEZM79Q
My guess is it would work with Android equivalent.
This is cool, looks more secure than this popular option.
Dongle Dangler - iPhone 7 headphone dongle accessory keychain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSYT8HH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3oDbAbC6HQDJJ
Or you could just get this lol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSYT8HH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CIDbAbY86RWHK
It's attached to this. It just snaps on and off :)
https://www.apple.com/shop/product/MU7E2AM/A/usb-c-to-35-mm-headphone-jack-adapter
https://www.amazon.com/Dongle-Dangler-Keychain-Accessory-Compatible/dp/B01MSYT8HH
Speaking of keeping it close and protected - I've been using this and it's been wonderful: https://www.amazon.com/Dongle-Dangler-headphone-adapter-keychain/dp/B01MSYT8HH
I always have it when I need it.
Ah, gotcha. I got one of these and keep it on my keychain.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B01MSYT8HH/ref=nosim/appleink
I got Wicked Cushion replacements cheap- https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Replacement-Pads-Audio-Technica/dp/B075M4TRWR/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=WC&amp;qid=1562782073&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-2
Not sure what clothes headphone could suit your needs, but you could replace the earpad. For example,
https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Replacement-Pads-Audio-Technica/dp/B075M4TRWR
Upgraded Replacement Ear Pads for Audio Technica ATH M50X - Also Compatible with M50XBT / M50 / M40X / M40 / Turtle Beach/HyperX/Sennheiser and More (Full List Inside) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075M4TRWR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XlUCCbKR2YYQ6
I have a similar issue with headsets. I have been using Audio Technica. I had the $50 set but recently got the $150 pair and it was a nice upgrade in material. The difference between these and the Turtle Beaches I used to have is night and day. The earpads fit fully around my areas and doesn't squish them. I would be able to wear my old headset for a couple hours before my ears would start to hurt. I have never experienced this kind of pain with my audio technicas. You will need an external mic though in which case I also recommend the snowball as a starter.
Edit: Also found these upgraded ear pads that have good reviews.
https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Replacement-Pads-Audio-Technica/dp/B075M4TRWR/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2L3L011JMGE5U&keywords=hyperx+earpads&qid=1571799966&sprefix=Hyperx+ear+pa%2Caps%2C270&sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Replacement-Pads-Audio-Technica/dp/B075M4TRWR/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=WC&qid=1573406565&sr=8-18
While I wouldn't say they sound stock, imo they sound better. More clarity. If you want stock sound don't buy these, but I think that these sound better and are way more comfortable.
No experience with these but great reviews. Check out the review photos. https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Replacement-Pads-Audio-Technica/dp/B075M4TRWR
Go with https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Foam-Earpads/dp/B00MFDT894
Or
https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Replacement-Pads-Audio-Technica/dp/B075M4TRWR
I went with the Brainwavez angled/leather/memory foam. Leaps and bounds better than what SteelSeries offers in terms of replacements or “upgrade.” Wore them for multiple hours before with my SS Pros and love them. No ear heat, sweat, pain or anything of that nature. Ears and side of my head felt just the same as when I put them on.
Yes. I've got the Wicked Cushions on mine from Amazon and they're incredible.
Upgraded Replacement Ear Pads for Audio Technica ATH M50X - Also Compatible with M50XBT / M50 / M40X / M40 / Turtle Beach/HyperX/Sennheiser and More (Full List Inside) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075M4TRWR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_o4ESCbXVWQWX6
>My only complaint so far is that the ear pads are quite small, and for long periods of time can get uncomfortable.
Yep, they're terrible. I stretched them out from the inside a bit and put them back on and it helped some, though they really could be just a bit larger.
>I have been looking at replacement ear pads and they're around $20
Which ones? I looked for hours last month for a replacement with slightly larger cups. The 4.40 has a stupidly weird earpad size that no one seems to make a replacement for, besides a stock replacement. This includes all of the brainwavz line of pads, they don't fit.
I purchased these from wicked cushions last month and it's a straight up lie that they fit a 4.40. Technically they'll pop on, but the pads are just way too big.
Any replacement pad that says it fits both the 4.40 and 4.50 is lying, the 4.50 has normal, larger sized pads.
Edit: Was looking at some reviews and one did mention that
"The momentum 2.0 ear pads fit the 4.40". I'm going to look into that. Edit: Nope don't believe it, the pads are just as large as my replacement was, too big.i got the wicked customs replacements off amazon and they've held up great for it being almost a year since i bought them
I would probably try to get a little cheap DAC for around $50 and then spend the $100 on headphones. The source matters.
&#x200B;
This is a great little DAC that can be used on your computer and phone. I have one and love it!
&#x200B;
DAC / Headphone AMP-
https://www.amazon.com/HIDIZS-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Smartphone/dp/B07F2DTTGT/ref=sr_1_28_sspa?keywords=USB+DAC&qid=1564399240&s=gateway&sr=8-28-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExSE1OSlVVMDFINk5WJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTE1ODI0MkdJVE5BUUtNRzBEMyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjI3MjgwT1Y1VzFXUzNaNE5GJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfbXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
&#x200B;
Headphones -
The Status CB-1 for like $70
Audio Technica - MTH-40x - $99
Sony MDR-7506 - $89
&#x200B;
The money you spend on the DAC / AMP is going to give you FAR FAR better performance than a spending a extra $50 on headphones and using them on a shitty, under-powered source. A better source lesser headphone will sound better than a great headphone on a shit source. However the under $100 headphones I posted are great quality and punch above their price. However if you just plug them into your phone or computer jack that probably won't sound all that great, nothing will. You need a DAC / Headphone amp for quality sound.
&#x200B;
Enjoy your purchase whatever you decide.
The Hidizs Sonata HDII USB-C dongle. I got one when they were on sale for $26.
https://www.amazon.com/HIDIZS-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Smartphone/dp/B07F2DTTGT
If you want something for your phone, assuming it has USB-C the Hidizs Sonata is a great option. Works plug and play with my android phone and my mbp without software or special drivers.
I am new to the IEM world although I hate tangled cables...I live and respect good sound. I just picked up a pair of KZ ZS3’s and honest sky they sounded like sh$t on the 3a. I almost returned then u til I plugged them into my sons iPhone 7 and then I was pretty amazed. Not sure how much you know but the ZS3’s are the poor man’s entrance to IEM. I was wondering about getting the yinyoo Bluetooth cable because I just absolutely hate cables. Thoughts?
Would the 3a sound better with this in your opinion? Have you personally tried it?
https://www.amazon.com/HIDIZS-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Smartphone/dp/B07F2DTTGT
Edit: my next dilemma is should I keep the ZS3’s or step up to something better? I love boomy bass, but these seem muddy at times. Treble is overpowering as well.
Oh nice! Yeah I also fit the HIDIZS into the tin. Picked it up for $25 at some point.
Hidizs Sonata HD or Razor makes one too. Google makes one as well for the Pixel phone.
The Hidizs has a surprisingly decent DAC for being so small, and drives my 45ohm ER4XRs much better than my iPhone.
Edit: the Hidizs also comes with a unique adapter that is usb-a male to usb-c female. It seems like it may work perfectly for your use-case. Here’s a link:
HIDIZS Portable Headphone Amplifier USB Type C DAC Headphone Amp for Android/Windows/MacOSX System Smartphone Laptop (Mark II) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2DTTGT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mbLoDbH6T1XKR
What phone do you have? I heard good things about this product
It's USB C
I've been using the hidiz one, kind of expensive but sounds great
https://www.amazon.com/HIDIZS-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Smartphone/dp/B07F2DTTGT
something like this: https://www.amazon.com/HIDIZS-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Smartphone/dp/B07F2DTTGT is an easy cheap way to add a Hi-Fi DAC to your phone. just make sure to do the firmware update first.
I've become quite the fan of this thing with the D firmware flashed (hitting their website explains how to flash firmware):
HIDIZS Portable Headphone Amplifier USB Type C DAC Headphone Amp for Android/Windows/MacOSX System Smartphone Laptop (Mark II)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2DTTGT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PhzCDbHQCNGPJ
If you insist.
My go to for in ear IEMs on my phone is
USB C DAC: HIDIZS Portable Headphone Amplifier Type C USB DAC Headphone Amp for Android Smartphone and Laptop(Mark II) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2DTTGT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CjvCCbCH914MQ
and
IEMs: Campfire Audio Andromeda's.
I personally use this one and find it brilliant.
https://www.amazon.com/HIDIZS-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Smartphone/dp/B07F2DTTGT/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=usb+c+dac&amp;qid=1570590327&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVVJIM0RRUDRINDBZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTgwMjg1MVhXUk1JRDBaUTM2VSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDczNDYyMVpYREpLTVVWODI0TSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
You need one with DAC (digital analog converter). You can find one on Amazon or even buy the Apple one (Wich has good reviews and low price).
I personally use this one with my OP6 and very happy with it.
HIDIZS Portable Headphone Amplifier USB Type C DAC https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07F2DTTGT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DX-1Db2S52PJB
Apple USB-C to 3.5mm works great. However, it suffers from very low volume. You will have to turn your Note up to 130 on your volume. This was $9.99 at Wal*Mart.
I'm also looking at this: HIDIZS Portable Headphone Amplifier USB Type C DAC Headphone Amp for Android/Windows/MacOSX System Smartphone Laptop (Mark II) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2DTTGT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rYd1DbT6RTAK3. Audiophiles like it. Currently $45.00 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/HIDIZS-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Smartphone/dp/B07F2DTTGT cheap and has a good DAC
These can drive 32ohm: https://www.amazon.com/HIDIZS-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Smartphone/dp/B07F2DTTGT
Some conversation about the product: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/hidizs-sonata-hd-dac-cable-new-tiny-and-mighty-dac-amp.880478/
Here you go: Rolls RA102 10-Channel Expandable Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026K0836/
Takes 1 analog input, outputs to 10 headphones. You may need to adapt from the 1/4" jacks to 3.5mm depending on your headphones. Hosa GPM-103 3.5 mm TRS to 1/4 inch TRS Adaptor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3T/
Don't use passive (non-powered) headphone splitters. With 10 phones connected the signal will degrade/may not even power the phones.
USB headphones will not work for your purpose because each one is seen as a unique device. Windows will only output to one device at a time.
Just get an electric and a little mic-pre. If you need to hear yourself better, run the guitar into the mic-pre(tube preferably) and then you can plug in headphones, speakers, powered speakers (like computer speakers), or even an amp (a tube pre will really warm up a shitty SS amp), and more importantly a computer or 4-track (or whatever recording interface you're using). In my book they're a must have, obviously if you ever start recording you'll want one anyway, but keep in mind recording yourself is an easy alternative to jamming with someone and a really great way to practice and write.
I'd recommend this:
be careful though this one doesn't have a power supply, so you'll have to go to goodwill and dig around through their chords and stuff, but that model was a really good one and thats a steal.
here's another steal
If you get one of these you'll need a TRS to Headphone adapter to get your headphones hooked up to it, and to hook it to a computer, but at any rate having this kind of adapter is also a must have if you're starting to fool around with music.
So, basically spend most of your budget on a good guitar first and foremost, don't buy a "beginner" guitar, take a friend that knows about guitars to help you or do some research, but always buy used. you won't really even need an amp to start practicing, but go ahead and look for a good, but inexpensive mic-pre like i've shown, so you can hear yourself better.
Keep in mind that if you get the right guitar and take care of it, it will hold its value, and you'll be able to trade up later (maybe even get more than you paid).
Then save your money and when you're ready to get loud get a good amp, then get an accoustic.
No one's mentioned the bias power required by the electret mic element. These types of mics require +3 to 9 VDC to power the FET inside the mic. This voltage is usually supplied by the computer's Mic Input jack. (also supplied by phone's headphone jack on a TRRS connection). The headphone jack can just be adapter to 1/4 inch and use the headphone output of the mixer (https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-GPM-103-3-5-inch-Adaptor/dp/B000068O3T/ref=sr_1_6?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1475092197&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=1%2F8+to+1%2F4)
A direct connection (passive) XLR adapter will not work, and if you turn on Phantom Power from the mixer you may damage the mic.
The Rode VXLR has a battery in it, so the passive adapter still works. You need something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Phantom-Power-Adapter-for-Sennheiser-3-5mm-Jack-Lapel-Lavalier-Microphones-/291526821026?hash=item43e05a44a2:g:ZyoAAOSwDNdVuW99
It takes 48V Phantom power from the Focusrite (or whichever mixer you use) and adapts it to the 3VDC you need to run the mic. Plus is does the connector change too. Now this one is a Chinese knock off, and sold to work with Sennheiser mics which come with 1/8 connectors, so no guarantee.
Also, I don't have a recommendation for anything cheeper than the Focusrite, but they make 'em. It really depends how many setups like this you'll be running at one time. If its just one, and you don't really care about high end voice quality, then there's ones like this: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q502USB-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B00CTKI10A/ref=pd_lpo_267_lp_img_4?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=SCHZQ7YJFT6Z4EQKCVKA
If you really want to go Audiophile, i would suggest you this sweet little interface:
http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-2i2-USB-Recording-Interface/dp/B005OZE9SA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417115084&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=audio+interface
In order to use it with your headphone, and this is the tricky and important part, you would also need these cables/adapters:
http://www.amazon.com/Estone-3-5mm-Female-Splitter-Extension/dp/B00IWNIZFE/ref=pd_sim_e_4?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1CA9BXT0GC3DRACNXPE7
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-GPM-103-3-5mm-TRS-Adaptor/dp/B000068O3T/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417116358&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=trs+3.5+to
With this setup you would gain the best possible sound quality (In AND Out) possible with your headset and it should also boost the level of your mic, so no longer software mic boosts which sound terrible. You could also upgrade later to better microphones, or plug in an instrument. Also you can attach Speakers and switch between them and the Headphone outlet, and the 2 even got different Volume settings! It has a really really really low latency (around 2-4ms) and can output at studio quality (96khZ, 24 bit) And before plugin in your mic be sure to turn off phantom voltage, otherwise you will grill your mic!
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-GPM-103-3-5mm-TRS-Adaptor/dp/B000068O3T/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418849814&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=1%2F8+to
Can I guarantee it will work? No.
Should it work? Absolutely.
So would this be a good deal to do? Everything will work ok?
I have this one, it hasn't given me any problems
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-GPM-103-3-5mm-TRS-Adaptor/dp/B000068O3T
you can use it with the interface and put it in the mic port
Go to like any electronics store and pick up one of these:
https://www.amazon.ca/Hosa-GPM-103-3-5mm-TRS-Adaptor/dp/B000068O3T/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482439607&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=3.5+to+quarter+inch
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but it sounds like you need one of these adapters and one of these cables
Do these look alright?
I believe it's "OMTP" not "OTMP"
For those confused, here is a diagram showing what a TRRS plug looks like. It stands for Tip Ring Ring Sleeve, and allows for both stereo audio and a mic to be on a single plug. Your phones probably have one installed. The problem is that most TRRS applications are CTIA, not OMTP. Therefore most splitters won't split the audio right. That's because the ground on OMTP is in the Sleeve, not one of the rings.
An adapter will allow you to switch from CTIA to OMTP and from OMTP to CTIA. You can get them for a few bucks on Amazon as well. Then you just need a TRRS to dual TRS splitter and some 1/8 TRS to 1/4 TRS adapters.
Better yet if you could find a 1/8 TRRS to dual 1/4 TRS splitter, but I couldn't find one :/
sorry wrong way around. this: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-GPM-103-3-5mm-TRS-Adaptor/dp/B000068O3T/ref=pd_bxgy_267_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=00DYCC5VH9CBT1G2SWH2
EMI? Sorry, but I'm not sure what that stands for . . .
Yes, I think it probably is due time I get myself a good external DAC, though I really wish I could get this Xonar U3 to work properly for the time being as I'm rather broke at the moment and would rather not spend money on non-necessities. For a while now I've had the Scarlett 2i2 interface on my 'To Buy' list. If I had that I'd upgrade my mic to something better than the ModMic, but there would still be instances where I'd use the ModMic. I imagine this adapter is what I'd need to hook up the ModMic to one of the Scarlett's two front panel microphone inputs, eh?
Do you have an amp? You can set up your guitar to go through both the amp and the game using a headphone amplifider or a a female Y cable
I personally use the headphone amplifier setup and turn down the volume on my guitar in the game to 80, the music to 90 and crank up my amp on clean to actually hear what I'm playing ;)
Seems like I need the opposite of this: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YPP-118-inch-Dual-Cable/dp/B000068O56/ref=sr_1_12?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464635743&amp;sr=1-12&amp;keywords=1%2F4th+inch+adapter+cables
Is there a store you recommend checking? /new to hardware synths
so I have a schiit DAC and pre-amp/amp and I was wondering if a splitter like this would reduce the quality of the music coming through or if it would be pretty much the same. I'd be using two sennheiser headphones through it.
Thanks!
I have that exact headphone splitter, it's cheap and works perfectly well.
It would be perfectly fine to daisy chain them... but probably a bit cumbersome (or 'a load of faff' to use a Britishism)
If you have a pair of identical headphones, you might be best off just buying the Behringer unit and a splitter cable to provide the extra output.
Something like this
(The reason you'd want identical headphones is because it ensures the volume will be the same between them, but it's not essential. You could just trial combinations of headphones until you find two that work together)
How bout this one:
Hosa YPP118 1/4 TRS To Dual 1/4 TRS Female Y Cable
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O56/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_QXrAub07TC0Q7
The LSR310S is a dumb sub when the SVS SB12 NSD is basically the same price and has the exact same feature the LSR310S has. That person was talking about a high-pass filter. The SVS and JBL sub can accept an input and only pass through whatever signal is above 80-hz so your main speakers don't play any low bass. There are a few benefits to this.
Doing things the way I described with the Dayton sub will be good enough tbh. Not ideal, but good enough.
Don't get too caught up in Dacs. Modern Dacs are the strongest part of the signal chain by far. Pick up something that'll do what you need. I recommend a Lexicon Alpha. It offers a high-gain balanced pre-out for volume control for cheap. You'll need to split the left and right signal coming out of it to have a pair going to your speakers and a pair to your sub. I'd say a pair of these splitters. Then a pair of 1/4" cables to go to the JBL speakers. Finally you'll need a set of 1/4" to RCA to connect the subwoofer.
The interconnects should not degrade quality in any audible way.
Ideally you would use two aux sends if the mixer has it. You could also use something like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YPP118-Dual-Female-Cable/dp/B000068O56/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458967571&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=1%2F4+splitter) to just split the aux send into two outputs if the mixer you want to use will only have one aux send.
> ableton can only route audio out of one of them (at a time)
That can't be a problem with Ableton, is that a restriction of your interface?
Ableton should be able to do stereo outs like any other DAW...
Yes you can split a balanced signal: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YPP118-Dual-Female-Cable/dp/B000068O56/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417358798&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=TRS+splitter
But I wouldn't do it that way. You really should be mixing in Stereo.
Well you will need a solder iron and some solder. And the proper replacement jack (it can be any jack of you want they are all do the samething.) You also need to look into how to SAFELY discharge the filter capacitors in an amp if you don't do this the electric shock could easy knock you out and in some cases people have died, but that only happens with big 100w-200w amp heads so you will probably be fine if something goes wrong. (Disclaimer I'm not responsible if you do hurt yourself). Now once you do that it will be as easy as taking the old jack out and putting a new one in. Now this is the proper way if you want a work around that involves little to no nwork here is what you do. Buy a cable spliter like this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O56/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_N4PUub0B0S2N5
And an adapter like this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009UVPN/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_0-PUub0YB3JJY and plug that stuff in and your good to go!
Well in this hypothetical, assuming my friend doesn't live in a van down by the river, couldn't we share his amp, iPhone, tablet or computer while we jam? But if you're going to jam with your friend at his house and he only has a single input on his amp, perhaps he was equally foolish and bought a Fender frontman 10G then I guess I need a 1/4" Y splitter for $5.00.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YPP-118-inch-Dual-Cable/dp/B000068O56/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480701257&amp;sr=1-1-catcorr&amp;keywords=1%2F4+Y+splitter
But if that's what I do, if that's how I play guitar, then there are other types of gear I'd spend money on:
https://www.amazon.ca/Behringer-MX400-Ultra-Low-Noise-4-Channel/dp/B000KGYAYQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480701616&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=4+channel+mixer
https://www.amazon.ca/Mackie-402VLZ4-4-Channel-Compact-Mixer/dp/B00EDRUQXC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480701709&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=4+Channel+mixer
Any of these three purchases are for gear that I will use and reuse if I become a professional musician. The Frontman 10G, I will discard into the trash bin when I get a good practice amp or rig.
> Optional if you plan to use same socket for your mic and for the camera (Splitter): https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YPP118-Dual-Female-Cable/dp/B000068O56/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458126160&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=1%2F4+splitter
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you'd use the splitter for the headphones, not the mic.
Wow, I actually agree with PM for once, the original post seems greatly exaggerated. Go up with the instructor one more time, buy one of these and record you flight along with ATC audio and post it so we can hear it.
Recorder https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BOXNSRY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Audio Cable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O35/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
y-cable / splitter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O56/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Got em!
Which GoPro do you have? In any case you can find ready made adapters that will get you your radio/intercom audio on the video but they're all way overpriced in my opinion (~$50). You can do it yourself for way cheaper. If you have an older GoPro that has a 3.5mm audio port you can just get something like this and this and you'd be all set. Just run the cable from the splitter into your GoPro mic port (if you don't have a passenger just plug the cable straight into that side for better audio and don't use the splitter). If you have a new GoPro like I do that has the USB mic port you'll need this too.
Full disclosure I haven't had an opportunity to try this yet in the airplane but I see no reason why it wouldn't work perfectly.
Belkin white splitter: $3.99
Belkin black splitter: $2.90
Belkin white splitter: $2.38
Belkin black splitter: $3.09
A 3.5 audio splitter should work. Here is a link to a cheap one on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Speaker-and-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00009WQSR
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
https://smile.amazon.com/Belkin-Speaker-and-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00009WQSR
---
^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly&nbsp;bot
I bought a y shaped one here on amazon and it works well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009WQSR/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_UXrMAb7XJ4GTN
would this 2 female to 1 male aux cord be able to take both a smart tv output and a monitor output and play them both through a sound bar? Not at the same time, i just don't want to manually switch out cables whenever i want to use my sound bar.
also: any good idea on how to keep wires against a wall? like nail in brackets? Im planning on running some wires from a cable box to the tv but they'd be going up the wall and over the entrance to my bedroom closet and then back down
Note: The points system is currently broken. We're working on it.
In case you missed it, click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.
There may be some questions still unanswered! Below are a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.
If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.
----
> The volume levels of my programs in sound mixer are adjusting themselves. Call volume setting is at do nothing, give applications exclusive control is off. What could be doing this?
>
> EDIT: I reset my audio driver to default and it stopped happening. However, I am still curious as to why it could have happened. I have alienware audio drivers.
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/71ygr9/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_23_2017/dneuns3
----
> would this 2 female to 1 male aux cord be able to take both a smart tv output and a monitor output and play them both through a sound bar? Not at the same time, i just don't want to manually switch out cables whenever i want to use my sound bar.
>
> also: any good idea on how to keep wires against a wall? like nail in brackets? Im planning on running some wires from a cable box to the tv but they'd be going up the wall and over the entrance to my bedroom closet and then back down
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/71ygr9/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_23_2017/dnf05tl
----
> Planning on buying an Nvidia shield for my under the tv box, but I'm also interested in the game streaming it does and have a question regarding it.
>
> I've got a 4k television, and my PC is a 2560x1080 ultra-wide. I'm I going to run into any issues with streaming from my PC to my tv since the resolutions are two different ratios?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/71ygr9/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_23_2017/dnf4rci
----
> What's a good wireless mouse that decently priced? Just for casual gaming, nothing hardcore.
> Maybe something in the 20-30 range
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/71ygr9/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_23_2017/dnf4zw8
----
> Could anyone recommend a good speaker for my pc that preferably costs under £30?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/71ygr9/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_23_2017/dnfqzcn
----
> How do you get the Custom flairs like "Nintendo Peasant" or "Retired PC Master Race" and get to choose your own colours?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/71ygr9/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_23_2017/dnfrqgd
----
----
I am a bot - This action was done automatically. Please direct any questions or concerns ( or bug reports ) to \/u\/eegras - About /u/PCMRBot
Fly away home.
this
Yeah, I do almost the same I have this travel power strip that goes everywhere with me. Works great for the airport when I need a plug and they're all occupied. I can usually ask someone to share, and never been refused.
I have this one, if you can find it somewhere I recommend it. Small enough to carry everywhere and can be very handy.
I have other things that need regular power outlet like my camera battery charger, laptop etc. Was hoping to find something all in one to avoid bringing multiple usb-c power adapter. Guess I could just use USB A-C and not have fast charging.
maybe this http://www.amazon.com/Monster-MP-OTG400-BK-Outlets/dp/B000F9YN2M if I need to get around furniture blocking outlets
Portable power strip
The 3oz. Gotoobs are really nice too if you prefer to use your own shampoo and soap rather than the hotels'. They also come in handy for camping trips and whatnot.
If you're comfortable asking for a more expensive item (then again these don't always have to be expensive; plenty of professionals rock free company bags, Samsonite bags, etc. as opposed to Tumi or something) , a professional laptop briefcase might be handy. Not sure what size your company laptop is/will be, but it's nice having the briefcase when you need it as opposed to a backpack.
Also if anyone has any recommendations on USB external monitors, I'd love to hear them. A few co-workers of mine have Lenovo ones, but since I last searched, I couldn't find any for sale.
I also really love this power strip, and it is especially helpful when staying in hostel dorm rooms. There are four outlets to charge stuff.
http://www.amazon.ca/Monster-MP-OTG400-BK-Outlets/dp/B000F9YN2M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450466408&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=four+outlet+power+bar
Yeah, I have a couple of those I really liked the concept, but I get terrible capacitor whine in both of them.
Instead I keep one of these in my backpack. It's too bad they apparently discontinued them.
I'd keep some coins on you in case you need to use the bathroom and it costs money.
I've been to Berlin, whichc i hope you're going to, and i found the taxi service a bit weird. Some places to credit/debit some were cash only. I found one WEIRD dude that only had two bills of 50 euros each and didnt take card. So be prepared if you're using taxis. I also found, coming from the states, credit card use didnt seem QUITE as prevalent, at least the first time i went in 2015. I actually found a market that was cash only.
As for packing i pack as light as possible, i just take basically the equivalent of a school back pack. But i stay in hotels so i can wash clothing in the tub or sink, i dunno how they do in hostels. I also like having socks and underwear that can be cleaned daily and are dry by morning so i can cut down on number of thing i take. They're usually thinner than normal underwear as well so less room. Last year i had ex officio and while i could wash them every day they retained a musty, sweaty smell despite showering several times a day. This year i bought David Archy and it worked a lot better. For socks i have smart wool from REI that have worked VERY well.
Last year was the first time i'd ever used packing squares and i cant recommend them enough. It makes packing and storing your stuff SO much easier. I got a 3 pack from Eagle creek. I use the big one for shirts and i can get about 10-12 shirts in there plus underwear. The middle one for socks if i need it. The smallest one i use for keeping less used electronics like my power strip, adapter, and power bank plus various cables.
I have this or something like it https://www.amazon.com/Monster-MP-OTG400-BK-Outlets/dp/B000F9YN2M/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505361011&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr0&amp;keywords=monster+p%5Bower+strip+travel
I take it every time i go out of town. I remember it being cheaper but i bought it years ago.
An important thing to remember is that for the most part anything you might forget besides essentials like medications and what not can be easily found so dont stress.
I'm currently using a 4-outlet monster powerstrip. It's a beast!
Monster MP OTG400 BK Outlets To Go 4 Outlet Travel Power Strip (Black)
http://amzn.com/B000F9YN2M
https://www.amazon.com/Comply-Cancelling-Audio-Technica-QuietComfort-Replacement/dp/B002NUJ2RM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=comply+t400&amp;qid=1565883484&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFFVFFBRkxPTEhDVEomZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAxMzAxMTIxUjNMUVVENkI0RVo3JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwMzM2MjExSDJYU0cyVzFKNERMJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= -> I have these, these are better.
https://www.google.com/amp/s/h5.aliexpress.com/item/33014025125.html -> These are good, cheaper, if you have time to wait. I use these with my AirDots.
> comply
https://www.amazon.com/Comply-Cancelling-Audio-Technica-QuietComfort-Replacement/dp/B002NUJ2RM
Thanks for all the help! I got my Tennmaks and I do like them, but maybe it's just because I'm not used to them, but it's rare for me to be able to keep both feeling snug at the same time. When I press them in, briefly, to get a better fit, they sound amazing. That's actually probably not what it's supposed to be like though, maybe a middle ground between what I normally get and when I push them in?
Anyway, I might give it another week or so to try to get used to getting a good fit. But if not, I googled those foam tips and found these. Is 400 the right core size for the Tennmaks? And do you perhaps suggest getting smalls if I feel like the earbuds aren't staying in place?
And no problem about the gold! You've been such a great help.
EDIT: Regarding fit, I just twisted the IEMS back and forth in my ears and they do seem to stick a little better, but they are easy to pull out and I have yet to test them for longer periods of time.
The Wirecutter had a really good analysis that convinced me to pick up the Monoprice 8320s. I put a pair of isolation tips on them and ended up with some spectacular headphones for under $30.
I bought these in the end so much better than true grip and better seal / isolation for my ears. Fit the buds fine but slightly have to push to close the case but it’s not too bad.
Comply Isolation Noise Cancelling Memory Foam Earphone Tips for Audio-Technical,... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002NUJ2RM/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_qXxNDbMGVZ6QP
I have these:
Panasonic ErgoFit In-Ear Earbud Headphones RP-HJE120-K (Black) Dynamic Crystal Clear Sound, Ergonomic Comfort-Fit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EM8008/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9uXwybT6JRXJJ
And these:
Comply Premium Replacement Foam Earphone Earbud Tips - Isolation T-400 (Black, 3 Pairs, Medium) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NUJ2RM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_EvXwybMJED2DZ
Couldn't be happier. Great performance for the price, especially the comply tips, I've always hated silicone tips on earbuds, these insulate better, stay in better, and are way more comfortable than any other buds I've had.
I should start off by saying that I've never spent $200 on a pair of non-studio headphones but, these are my current favorites and I would HIGHLY recommend them (and going wireless- soooo much more mobility without getting tangled in a cord!). I haven't found better sound quality in wireless headphones (or any in-ear headphones, for that matter), the controls are great, the don't take long to charge, the battery lasts a long time, and I use them for several hours almost every day while I'm making knives so, plenty of sweat and a pretty tough environment. Also, if you get some of these replacement ear buds, they sound even better and do an amazing job of cancelling noise. That's a big part of what I use these for- ear protection when I'm running saws, drills, hammering on stuff, running my grinder, etc. Oh, last thing: I've been using these for a few years now, this is my second pair (I only replaced the first because my dog decided to eat the first set). $100 is a lot for me to spend on headphones but, when I needed a second pair, I didn't hesitate to buy these again. Hmm... JLab should probably pay me for this. lol Seriously, they're great. Best of luck!
Personally, i'm fairly convinced that replacement tips are almost as important as headphone choice.
You can get high value ear-buds for dirt cheap:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003EM8008/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
(look at the reviews)
And get some foam tips for them.
http://www.amazon.com/Comply-T-400-Isolation-Earphone-Medium/dp/B002NUJ2RM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1381769389&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=comply+foam+tips
You have a pair of headphones that sound great for the money, stay in your ears perfectly and comfortably, you wont get upset if you lose/break them, and you even have extra foam tips.
My only gripe with this setup is that the cord feels just a bit cheap, but that's hardly a gripe at all.
I've owned IEMS everywhere from 3$ to 140$ I stopped spending more than 40$ a long time ago. Earbuds get abused, lost, washed, etc etc... After a couple of big losses, price to performance ratio became my main goal for earbuds.
Give em a try! I bet you wont be disappointed... for the money.
My setup now is these Sony earphones with inline iPhone controls and mic . I added Comply foam tips for sound insulation. I can't imagine getting any better sound at this price. I use the inline controller to adjust volume and chance tracks/answer calls. The mic is pretty useless unless it's inside the helmet.
Don't do this. This will just block the sound from the earphone. If you want something similar you can try Comply Foam Tips.
exactly this post
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VEQ2UU/ + http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002NUJ2RM/ gets you great buds with great tips for under $25 with prime/free shipping
and you have a few spare sets of tips to last you
https://www.amazon.com/Headset-Buddy-Headphone-Adapter-PH35-PC35/dp/B00332DPDG
What splitter are you using? Something like this? Try that, if it doesn't work, you may just have to get a better headset, or preferably separate headphones and a mic. Splitters like the one I linked will split a 4-contact 3.5mm plug into separate 2-contact(mono) 3.5mm mic and 3-contact (stereo) 3.5mm headphones plugs. The problem is, some headsets designed for phones add extra features such as volume controls and call-control buttons. These send wonky-ass signals down one of the 2 circuits (mic or headphones), and if that's the case, you just won't have much luck with either the cans or mic with those headsets on a PC.
It sounds like you may have a splitter like I've linked, so I think you're just SOL. Get better equipment.
There should be a splitter available, that would probably be the easiest and cheapest way.
Edit: Something like this http://www.amazon.com/Headset-Buddy-Adapter-Smartphone-Converts/dp/B00332DPDG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1312063061&amp;sr=1-1
You might need a splitter like this http://amazon.co.uk/dp/B00332DPDG if your laptop doesn't have a mic/headphone combination plug.
There aren't any solid solutions that will be both device agnostic and inexpensive, unfortunately. If you end up sticking with the X360, my favorite has been the XBox 360 Wireless Headset. Alternatively I had an extra set of Plantronics M Series earloop and eartips that I stuck onto the 'set and I find them to be much more comfortable / better at remaining in place. In all, with the optional kit, can run you from $25-$40 (sometimes you'll find a dirt cheap sale on the communicators somewhere, especially for like the MW3 edition). Personally I wouldn't go any higher in cost for an X360 solution, unless you go full-blown with an Astro Mixamp Pro and a favorite, high quality headset (expect to spend anywhere from $200-$500 altogether, or higher if you go really nuts).
A solid, dollar for dollar, PC / PS4 solution would be to get the SteelSeries v2 paired with an adapter like this ($60-$80 solution, depending). The DS4 has a 3.5mm jack that will support in-game sound as well as chat. The downside to it is it's a little underpowered. A lot of people don't have issues with it, but I'm rather picky. Thankfully the SteelSeries v2 only has a 32 Ohm impedance and an accompanying low-ish sensitivity level. So they don't take much to drive, but still -- to me the sounds for anything on the DS4 are a little muddy. To forego it, you would need to spend a little more money. Next step up, which works great for the PS4, would be the Sony Wireless Gold for around $80, but while it's a great solution for the PS4 I find it subpar on the PC. To get better sound out of the PS4 you would have to go the Astro Mixamp Pro route.
For PS4 you could also go the opposite direction in pricing and get the $12 PS Vita Earbuds and just shove those in the DS4 jack. While still an inline mic (will be picking up a lot of ambient noise) these are far better than what you can get out of the packaged earbud / mic with the PS4. If your soundcard doesn't support mic input via the headphone jack and only has the separate 3.5mm, can always use another adapter that goes in the reverse. Or just simply save up for a different headset for PC.
only phones and some computers like macs have a combo jack.
for most computers you need to split the mic signal out
http://www.amazon.com/Headset-Buddy-Adapter-Smartphone-01-PH35-PC35/dp/B00332DPDG/
There's always the good old Koss PortaPro. Which are still likely the best on ears below 100€. Maybe a bit too light if you want to add the Modmic, however you can also get the version with an iPhone mic and something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Headset-Buddy-Headphone-Adapter-PH35-PC35/dp/B00332DPDG
They aren't super durable (probably as durable as the Logitech) but they do have a lifetime warranty, and they are fairly cheap as well.
Something like this, or this cheaper version?
You need an adapter https://www.amazon.com/Headset-Buddy-Headphone-Adapter-PH35-PC35/dp/B00332DPDG
If your setup is what I am thinking it is, you need one of these adapters https://www.amazon.com/Headset-Buddy-Headphone-Adapter-PH35-PC35/dp/B00332DPDG
http://www.amazon.com/Headset-Buddy-Smartphone-Adapter-01-PH35-PC35/dp/B00332DPDG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452988785&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=smartphone+pc+headset+adapter
found it
PCs generally don't support phone-style combo jacks (audio output + microphone). You need this type of adapter.
Made an edit to the main post, I plan on using After FX mostly, and vegas secondarily.
The headphone/mic splitter is from amazon I'm sure someone could find one just around at a small computer store, but this is my backup if I can't find it locally.
This definitely works. I bought a similar adapter and tested it with Skype on my PC.
As described, your PC has one audio input (microphone) and one OUTput (speaker). A mic/earphone headset with only one connector will not function in the configuration. You'll have to use an adapter to split the signals. Ex. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00332DPDG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499400297&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;pi=AC_SX200_SY289_QL65&amp;keywords=headset+to+pc+adapter&amp;psc=1
I checked the Plantronics page, but they didn't give much in the hardware specs of the headset. You said you plugged them into your phone and they work fine. So first off you're using a "Tip-ring-ring-sleeve" style headphone jack. This style of headphone jack only became massively popular since smart phones started really taking off about six years ago . Because of that most computers don't have single jacks that can recognize both mic and headset from a single plug. It is becoming more common on laptops and some desktops though, but where I work even most of our newer business class Dell Laptops we purchase still don't support that kind of connection. We have a few people who have smartphone headsets that want to use them on their Dells for Skype and such so we ended up ordering a bunch of adapters that breaks out the mic and headphones into two plugs that is compatible with all computers that have a headphone and microphone jack. An amazon link for said product is below...
Amazon smart phone headset adapter for PC's.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00332DPDG
Here's a weird tip that works as well... buy a $5-$10 USB Bluetooth Dongle for your computer, then plug your new headset into your smartphone and connect your smartphone to your PC via bluetooth. Then use your headset over bluetooth with it plugged into your phone that acts as the receiver. I've done this a few times with my iPhone, it's also nice because I can toss my phone in my pocket and walk away from my desk while still talking although the connection gets horrible if you're more than 20-30 feet away or if you get a wall between you and the receiver.
Anyways hope that helps, or at least pushes you in the right direction to find the answers you need.
Aha! AV jacks. I googled the box. As you say it has AV jacks, no headphone connector. The two are not the same. Unless you have really low impedance headphones, you're not going to get much out. That's line level signal, meant for a recording device or amplifier.
So It's really not an android or kodi issue, it's that particular box. Something like this should make your headphones work.
Ok so I need some help. I need a device that will allow me to connect multiple speakers to one device. I already have this but I recently got a new sub and I believe this device doesn't put enough power to the sub, because when I play a song I can feel the sub moving but it doesn't produce enough sound to be heard no matter how high I turn the volume up.
The device will need to be able to connect three different speaker sets together. For example I have a logitech 2:1 system (that I would like to still use), a pair of Rosewill speakers, and now a new sub that I need to connect to my PC. Thank you!
Edit: Just an FYI, I have 3mm to 1/4 adapters, and RCA to 1/4 adapters already.
I'm a drummer looking for a small, cheap, simple way of monitoring my band's various inputs by headphone. There are four different 1/4" outputs that I would like to listen to and have control over the volume of each. Mono would be fine and quality doesn't have to be anything special, just enough to follow things in time. A compact powered mixer would do the trick but I'm on a budget and would like to ideally spend no more than ~$20.
My questions is, could something like this or this be able to operate in reverse, such that I can plug our four channels into each headphone jack and have the "input" feed out to my headphones to sum the signals?
Oh ok. Sorry for bugging you, but would something like this work or would I need one of those bigger ones? I'm gonna keep looking for any settings I might be missing but if I can't find it that might just be an easier solution.
As has been said, you can't use just any USB device on your TV. Probably just USB memory sticks and stuff.
Usually, a Home Theater Receiver would have a built-in headphone output (but you have the soundbar, which doesn't have one that I can see), or the TV would have a headphone jack (but again, yours doesn't have one unfortunately). No dice there either for you.
On top of that, you may not just be able to connect the RCA outputs on your TV to your headphones - the signal might be Line Level (not amplified) and wouldn't be very loud. I would give it a try first with the adapter - RCA Stereo Male -> 3.5mm headphone jack (Female) and see what kind of sound you get, and if turning up the TV volume will work. That may be all you need, and is worth a shot at least.
If that doesn't work, you'll need some kind of simple headphone amplifier, which after some searching are crazy hard to find for cheap. The cheapest I found is this one from Pyle on Amazon that should work, but again with more adapters (RCA to 1/4", then 1/4" to 3.5mm headphone, which are common, but still).
For all adapters and cables, go to monoprice for cheap good stuff... here's the first one you can try to just hook up the TV straight to your headphones. Should be about $3-4 shipped, which is probably cheaper than RadioShak. You can try picking up something there as well, but it'll be about $6.99. If that cable doesn't work come back and we can talk simple amplifiers.
Those little amps have very little gain and are designed for only small boosts in volume. I don't think you'll be happy with it. This little guy might work for you.
I am a researcher helping set up a project where we want to display brief sounds at 89dB. We are using a pair of Bose QuietComfort 25 headphones and Pyle PHA 40 (https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PHA40-4-Channel-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003M8NVFS) headphone amplifier. However, even with turning the system volume and the amplifier volume all the way up, I can't get the headphones to produce anything past ~84db. I have tried to mess around with the settings and nothing seems to work. I can get the volumes to increase by turning on noise cancellation, but that isn't an option because the other equipment is sensitive to electrical noise. Do I just need a better amplifier? I have also considered installing DFX Audio Enhancer, but would rather not install it!
Thanks for any suggestions and advice!
That was a concern for me as well. It hasn't bothered me enough yet to do it (since I haven't played music other than the game music yet since I completed it), but the only solution I could come up with was to use a separate USB sound card for music. Have my music player play through that card, then use a headphone mixer (something like this) to mix game sounds and the music source into my headphones. That would give me sound effects and music, but the transducer would only see game sounds.
If it bugs me enough I'll spend a bit more for the parts and add that to the chair. :)
My Presonus Audiobox USB only had one headphone out, so I got one of these for your exact purpose: https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PHA40-4-Channel-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003M8NVFS/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=headphone+mixer&qid=1557174542&s=gateway&sr=8-9
just get a male-to-male TRS cable ( https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CSS-110-Balanced-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068NYH/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3QR9Z2RFJ35EW&keywords=trs+cable&qid=1557174680&s=gateway&sprefix=trs%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-3 ) to output from your audio interface into this mixer and then plug both headphones into the mixer and adjust the levels accordingly. Works great!
There are cheaper headphone amps http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HA400-BEHRINGER-MICROAMP/dp/B000KIPT30/ref=pd_cp_MI_0
http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PHA40-4-Channel-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003M8NVFS/ref=pd_cp_MI_1
How low do you want to go? Get a good DAC, then upgrade the cheap amp.
Wouldn't it be easier to get a little headphone amp with multiple output ports like this one?
Less cable issues, solves your volume problem with the sennheisers and you still have a spare port. Have a look, maybe you find an amp with 3,5mm jacks.
Here's the set up my wife and I use so we both can play with headphones. The TV only has optical out so we need a few adapters and run the sound right from the TV.
Toslink Digital Optical Fiber Optic Splitter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OY0WBTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Digital Coaxial Toslink to Analog (L/R) Audio Converter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DIRI6I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
3.5mm Male Audio Video Extension Cable RCA Male Extension Cable
https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Audio-Video-Cable-Extension/dp/B00004Z5CP/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481691314&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=rca+to+3.5mm
4-Channel Stereo Headphone Amplifier
https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PHA40-4-Channel-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003M8NVFS/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481691413&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=headphone+amplifier
Works great and we control our own volume.
First off using tabletop stands like those can and will probably introduce table-vibrations to your sound. You need to include either shock mounts for your mics, or use off-table stands for the clearest audio.
That splitter looks like a Belkin Rockstar splitter - you can find them on Amazon.
We use this one from Pyle - because it has separate volume controls.
https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PHA40-4-Channel-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003M8NVFS/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481558580&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=headphone+splitter+with+separate+volume+controls
If you're willing to spend a little extra cash, I'd like to recommend the AKG q701s along with a simple $-Channel Amp. Fantastic headphones, my favorites.
Do I need an amp? I just bought myself my first real pair of headphones and my audio technica ath ad900x will be here tomorrow! (I am really excited).
Will I need an amp and would I even notice the difference? I was looking at the Pyle-Pro PHA40 4-Channel Stereo Headphone Amplifier (the amazon link is below) and I have no idea about amps so I don't know if I should be worried about the 15 dollar price tag.
I will be using the headphones mostly with my desktop and occasionally with my Samsung galaxy s5.
http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PHA40-4-Channel-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003M8NVFS/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422403770&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=headphone+amplifier
I would splurge a bit more for
http://amzn.com/B0039PPW60
I have the bigger version of this, and it had a bit of a learning curve, but once i got it all figured out, everything works great.
The usb allows you to record the output via usb instead of messing with adapters from RCA. If you want to record audio using the computer as a source ( music/videos/etc ), do not use the usb line in option, it really limits you, use a 3.5mm to double 1/4 inch and put it into one of the balanced channels past the 4 unbalanced ones. Get a good cable, otherwise there's bad hum. Also, i found a headphone amplifier was incredibly helpful when having several people on shows, they could each have headphones with independent volume control, i got this one:
http://amzn.com/B003M8NVFS
I noticed, you could not just use a stereo 1/4 inch cable from headphone out to headphone amp, it wasn't coming through stereo, so i ran RCA output to 1/4 inch stereo to the headphone amplifier, and BAM worked.
I'm not an expert, so i could be wrong about all of this, just what i've done after hours of tinkering.
Cheap wired will beat out even mid-priced wireless every time.
Get a 8 of these 4 output headphone amps ($17 each):
http://amzn.com/B003M8NVFS
Get 16 xlr to 1/4" mono adapters, and 8 1/4" mono to stereo adapters. (another $160)
people can bring their own headphones, or get them some cheapo over-ear noise isolating cans.
Also, resist the temptation to link your busses in stereo. Mix each send in mono to the desired L/R. The panning of the originating channel will persist otherwise (not usually desired in a monitor mix, not as versatile)
Can have up to 4 people accessing each mix.
I bought a silicone cover and fits just right with the EL battery. Definitely worth it.
Find it for $10 here:
http://www.amazon.com/Diztronic-Flexible-Protector-SCH-i515-Packaging/dp/B0065PGWQ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1324424409&amp;sr=8-1
EDIT for link.
I got this one off Amazon. Obviously I havn't had a chance to put the Nexus in it, but it looks like a solid case. Youtube has a lot of good Galaxy Nexus case reviews too.
Edit: Found a YouTube review on it. There's also a clear version.
What are you guys getting for accessories? I'm thinking about ordering this http://www.amazon.com/Diztronic-Flexible-Protector-SCH-i515-Packaging/dp/B0065PGWQ0/ref=sr_1_2?s=wireless&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1323908458&amp;sr=1-2 for 10 bucks. Or should I go for otterboxes?
Virtually all the TPU cases will work. this is the one I am currently using. Have been thinking about purchasing (read: pre ordering) the Ringke Slim case as well.
I'm happy with this one. I don't have the extended battery but it will fit based on the comments. It's sturdy and doesn't make the phone feel larger.
Nope. The Defender is a beast. I'm using this which is basically a little shell and it's too much. Thankfully it comes off easily.
http://www.amazon.com/Diztronic-Flexible-Protector-SCH-i515-Packaging/dp/B0065PGWQ0/ref=sr_1_1?s=wireless&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1324672504&amp;sr=1-1
I got this one and really liked it. Fits with the extended battery too.
I use this for pocket use: http://www.amazon.com/Diztronic-Flexible-Revision-Protector-Packaging/dp/B0065PGWQ0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1334257831&amp;sr=1-1
but I recently got this: http://www.tridenteer.com/products/Kraken-AMS-Case-for-Samsung-Galaxy-Nexus-With-Holster-Bundle--%28Black%29.html and I like it much more. It's 2 cases in one and has cheap accessories like a car dock, bike dock and tripod mount that fit to the case.
This one It keeps a low profile and it has a nice touch. Very good at keeping lint out and other stuff. Big enough lip to prevent it from falling directly on the face. Used it since day one of the Gnex.
You might want to try the Diztronic. I have that case and it has quite a bot of clearance around the audio port. Might be cheaper than buying a new audio cable maybe.
I have cases for my Galaxy Nexus and Nexus 7, but I only put them in the cases when I'm away from home. I have The Snugg case for my Nexus 7 and the Diztronic TPU case for my Galaxy Nexus.
I got this one. Comes with a screen protector, too. It looks like just like one of the Seido ones.
Bought this case. Seems to work well enough, although it doesn't fit as well with the extended battery in. The volume buttons aren't cut out, so it tends to push on them when in landscape. It came with a screen protector that isn't very good.
this seems to be the case of choice for nexus owners. Cheap and awesome. I bought one based on research on here. I love it.
I checked amazon real quick and it came up with this one
Any recommendations? This one is inexpensive and supposedly it fits the DT-770, albeit tightly.
I am about to purchase a pair of AKG 240s
First, if anyone here has any experience with these I'd love to hear from you about anything you might want to say about them, good or bad!
Second and the main reason for my post, I need a hard case, in case I need to travel with them. My budget is $30.
Thanks!
EDIT: From my research the most affordable option which is also durable and is confirmed with Slappa to accommodate my headphones is the Slappa hardcase. Id love to hear if anyone has any thoughts whatsoever:)
I've got a pair of pristine condition white M50x's for sale. I was planning on using them more but I only used them for about a week before I went back to my HD650's. The original leather pads have almost no wear and I also have brand new velour pads from massdrop and a Slappa carrying case (http://www.amazon.com/Slappa-Full-Sized-HardBody-Headphone-Protection/dp/B009NE7B06). Looking to get $130 shipped for the whole set.
Yes, this is the one I'm referencing.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NE7B06
I use something like this. Not a full hardcase but semihard:
https://www.amazon.ca/LTGEM-Carrying-Sennheiser-Professional-Headphones/dp/B01IUQIFYS/ref=sr_1_17?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492422014&amp;sr=1-17&amp;keywords=headphone+case
https://www.amazon.ca/Slappa-SL-HP-07-Full-Sized-Headphone/dp/B009NE7B06/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492422014&amp;sr=1-9&amp;keywords=headphone+case
I don't think you can get something like a generic Pelican case for that budget.
Just a heads up, I paid $220 for a set (in 9/10 condition) with THIS CASE, an extra + smaller cable (4') and both pads, just like yourself (from the website, FocusPads)...
GLWS, especially with the Senn deals that popped up.
I recently bought the M50x's, but am worried about transporting them in my bag to, from, and around campus. I have looked online and only found the Slappa cases, but this one seems a bit small like it may bend the headband. The other one, this one, which seems a little excessive in size considering that the m50x can fold up. I would be busing and carrying them in my backpack. Any suggestions?
http://www.amazon.com/Slappa-Sized-HardBody-Headphone-SL-HP-07/dp/B009NE7B06
I went ahead and purchased this. I study audio in school, so having a hardshell case for my headphones is nice, ya know?
I got the Slappa hardbody pro case, it fits a pair of DT770s along with an E17 so should fit the momentums fine: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B009NE7B06
I highly recommend the PS Gold Wireless headset. Sometimes you can find it on sale for less than the $99 price tag, but it's worth every penny. Hands down, one of the best gaming headsets at that price point. It also works no problem on both my Mac and PC, just plug and play.
And if you want a great case to protect it, because it does feel kinda cheap in build, check out this case:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NE7B06?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
I picked up this case last week and it fits no problem. Harder outer shell, and a spot to hook a clip for attaching to bags.
Budget: Not really set
So I need advice as to what headphone carrier I should get for the AT-M50x that I recently purchased? I tried using the storage that came with my Razer bag that I use via winning it in a contest, but that carrier was too small and I was really struggling to fit the m50s in there. I purchased the Slappa case from the recommended area on Amazon, and it's too large, and I was really struggling to fit the M50s in it, even folding them up every which way. I would ideally want something that will comfortably fit the m50s as well as fit in a backpack. Preferably a hard case as the leather carrier is nice that came with the M50s, I just want something tougher.
Thanks!
Just the bravo audio v2, no external DAC. I only use the amp with my home desktop setup, audio comes out of my desktop's motherboard audio out (and it has a pretty decent integrated audio interface and I don't think a DAC would do much for me without seriously upgrading my amp and phones).
The bravo is a tube amp, and so it does color the sound a bit. You can swap out the tubes with others that give a different character to the sound. It's a super excellent amp for its price.
Now this one is cool!
It's plugged into the Bravo Audio V2 Tube Multi-Hybrid Headphone Amplifier, which is plugged into the standalone ODAC.
I'll still take it over the <$100 chinese tube headphone amps that run 100's of unprotected volts without so much as a damn case to keep you from fucking shit up. Not to mention they can come as DIY kits for beginners.
Oh thanks I was looking at the MKIII I think. What'ya think of the Bravo V2? I may just grab that.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ADR2DTG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3O0F54TFIOLYM&amp;coliid=I36I7BD5Y8ACFY&amp;psc=1
this is the amp i got
That's what I meant by depending. Since you have the preamp built in it should work fine. That's a fairly well regarded headphone amp. Another option is the Bravo for about the same money. Great tube sound and looks very impressive and cool.
http://www.amazon.com/Bravo-Audio-V2-Multi-Hybrid-Headphone/dp/B00ADR2DTG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415665014&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=Headphone+amp
I power mine with this. Works really well.
https://www.amazon.com/Bravo-Audio-V2-Multi-Hybrid-Headphone/dp/B00ADR2DTG
Bravo Audio V2 tube amp
Thank you for replying. I have a receiver that my partner can eventually use (when we live together) but in the short-term would this work? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ADR2DTG/ref=asc_df_B00ADR2DTG57005868/?tag=googshopuk-21&creative=22146&creativeASIN=B00ADR2DTG&linkCode=df0&hvadid=205210909091&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7388984373119419019&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9050376&hvtargid=pla-402849893887
I'm thinking turntable (with built-in phono preamp) > Bravo Audio V2 > headphones. Have I got that right? Also, I'm assuming that if my receiver will take over in future it is best to invest as much as possible into the turntable - correct?
hello friends, I'm kinda new to the headphone thing and I got a pair of what seem like nice headphones for Xmas this past year
my question is, are they good? or should I sell them for something else
my current headphones are a pair of Master and Dynamic MH30's. I mainly listen to rap right now (gonna name check Death Grips cause they're my favorite band at the moment).
I noticed you guys wanted to know what i'd be plugging them into so here goes. I usually listen to music through my phone (a Google Pixel) or through the 3.5mm jack on my laptop, but I also got a "Bravo Audio V2 Class A 12AU7 Tube Multi-Hybrid Headphone Amplifier" for Xmas and I've used it a bit when I'm on my desktop computer (which I usually use to play videogames).
If I can provide any other info I'd be glad to do so,
thanks from a newbie!
I've got great news for you! I found a setup for 257 Euros that I think you'll love! Beyerdynamic DT 880@ with Dac! and Hybrid Tube amp@
This was my first real set up, and I loved it! The DT 880 sounds phenomenal with Classic Rock, Indie rock, Acoustic and classical, the Hybrid Tube amp has more than enough power for it and will REALLY flesh out the sound of the headphone, the UCA 202 is a dac I still use to this day [with my laptop and at work] all in all, I think you'd be VERY happy with a set up like this!
Additionally, here's some feed back about that little amp you can read through the thread if your curious about how amazing the DT 880 Pro is :3
90% of all my gaming is done with a stereo gaming headset. The only thing I use my tiny ass speaker for is music from my phone and my console games. I don't care about surround sound, as I wouldn't ever use it.
My current speaker is $37, and my amp is $70. This is more than enough for everything I do. If you didn't see it, you'd imagine the speaker easily cost over $200 (which really surprised me when I got it on clearance at my job)
I personally believe spending thousands on an entire sound system is a very poor idea and a terrible investment.
Bravo Audio V2 Class A 12AU7 Tube Multi-Hybrid Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ADR2DTG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_taYTzb7STBYSH
Bravo v2
Bravo v3
Awesome employer discount available and I can currently grab either the V-Moda Crossfade wireless for $90 or the M100s for $80. I might end up with both, but what would you guys recommend if you had to chose at this price point?
My only other pair of decent cans were Shure srh750dj's, but they broke down after a few years of wear and tear.
Tight bass response is important and the type of music I'm into ranges from jazz, hip hop, and death metal.
I plan on ordering the XL pads as well, so if I go for the wireless, I hear this helps achieve similar bass response that the m100's get.
Also do either of these shine better with an amp? Need to piece together a sub-$150 wishlist for Christmas so I was considering something like this, but would appreciate recommendations
Very nice. Almost makes me question my propensity for always building in ATX full tower cases with all the unused space I end up with.
Also, recommendation for your AKG K240:
https://www.amazon.com/Multi-Hybrid-Headphone-Amplifier-Audio-Preamplifier/dp/B07DLRFHXT
or
https://www.amazon.com/Bravo-Audio-V2-Multi-Hybrid-Headphone/dp/B00ADR2DTG/
I swapped out my K240 for a Beyedynamic DT-990, but these cheap mosfet based tube amps really do wonders for both the K240 and the DT-990.
Okay so I think that instead of the SD 793ii (ill return it) I'm getting the monoprice DAC and headphone amp, It seems like it would solve all of my problems, but I just cant seem to find the smsl-50 in a black finish anywhere....anyone have suggestions for something other then the SMSL at around the same price point in black finish? Or I could just get a cheap stand alone DAC for the signal coming out of my computer and buy This headphone amp. I will be listening to both my Turn table and Mac Pro Tower through the system.
Edit: words and stuff
What about a cheap tube amp? ? Or the Vali 2? How does a tube warp the sound?
I’ve also heard that those amps dull the sound to make it sound more ’reference’, is this true?
cool i'll check that out! I'm planning to use headphones and i already have this phono preamp as well as this amp ready to order. All I need next is the turntable correct?
EDIT: possibly this Samsung SS-3350 reciever instead of that amp and preamp i posted above?
HE400i Sound Distortion :(
Hi everyone, first my setup:
Windows desktop to Senheisser GSX 1000 that goes into a Bravo AUDIO V2 Valve Class A Tube Headphone Amplifier. I then connect the HE400i to the amp.
Now the issue is that on some tracks the sound gets distorted if I increase the volume. I tried lowering the source sound (which links to Windows sound) and controlling the volume from the amp (and vice versa) and to no avail. The same audio tracks sound clear and smooth with no distortion on the PSB M4U1 Headphones! Not sure what to do here. I think its the HE400i but not sure why as its a rather premium set of cans :/ any ideas?
Products:
Bravo AUDIO V2 Valve Class A Tube Headphone Amplifier: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00ADR2DTG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Senheisser GSX 1000: https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/qvf/Sennheiser-GSX-1000-Gaming-Audio-Amplifier-Black/B01LDTP484/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500636639&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=gsx1000
Nothing too fancy! It's a Bravo Audio V2.
I've been looking into getting replacement pads for the m50s and I've heard great things about the ones by SoundProfessionals.
http://www.amazon.com/ATH-M50-PADS-VELVET-ATH-M50RD-ATH-M50WH-ATH-M50xBL-ATH-M50xWH/dp/B00F2ZM6CS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1411616787&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=m50x+earpads
http://www.soundprofessionals.com/cgi-bin/gold/item/AT-135409020-VELVET
https://www.amazon.com/ATH-M50-PADS-VELVET-ATH-M50RD-ATH-M50WH-ATH-M50xBL-ATH-M50xWH/dp/B00F2ZM6CS are they these?
This or this is what /u/godisanatheist69 is talking about.
Also the Sound Professionals website needs a major overhaul, it looks very dated.
Well, the pads i got were from Massdrop, which is a sort of bulk buying website that only sells some things at a time so im not entirely sure which ones i got way back when.
That being said, i found this thread which has some pretty good discussion.
Also these look pretty close, but im not sure if theyre the exact same brand/manufacturer.
Try these
No stupid questions. You have to think of the synth like a stage instrument (because thats what it's designed for). It was made as a performance instrument, and they usually use the 1/4 jacks. There are two ways to go about this:
OR
If I was in your shoes I'd buy the cheap adapter, get my feet wet, then invest in a basic mixing/monitoring system as you get more experience. Good headphones, and good monitors go a long way though.
Edit:I was confused. It has a headphone jack, just not a 1/8" one.
Like this?
Just get a headphone splitter. They’re 4-5 bucks.
To save space, I haven't found anything better than this one from monster (ugh) - http://www.amazon.com/Monster-MP-OTG400-BK-Outlets/dp/B000F9YN2M/
I actually don't know if this would work (it's something I've thought about before but never tried), but what about getting something like this which would let you plug your headphones into both your PC/console and your iPod at the same time.
Like I said, I dunno if it'd work, so I wouldn't try it unless you can borrow it off someone to test it out first.
Or he could try these. http://www.amazon.com/ATH-M50-PADS-VELVET-ATH-M50RD-ATH-M50WH-ATH-M50xBL-ATH-M50xWH/dp/B00F2ZM6CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406038739&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sound+professionals+ear+pad
Though I don't have a link, I'm sure there are many adapters to break out the Headphone and Microphone connectors so it can be used with a Standard Computer. In fact, I would suspect most Gaming Headphone Sets would come with this adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/Sound-Blaster-Audio-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00GNHSL8C
https://www.amazon.com/Headphones-Splitter-Computer-Headphone-Smartphone/dp/B01I7SS3EQ
Here you can see a set of headphones that comes with such an adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/Sades-Lightweight-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B01A73ZH34
I'm surprised your headphones did not come with such an adapter. Both the adapters above are marked. One connector has a Headphone Symbol and the other has a Microphone Symbol.
You want to make sure the adapter you find is a single 4 pole (TRRS) socket that breaks out into two 3 Pole (TRS) plugs. Though likely the Mic could function only needs 2-poles (TS). But 3-Pole probably makes it more versatile.
A Headphone "Y" connector you linked to is going to be one 3-pole in and two 3-pole out. That's not going to work. You specifically need 4-poles (TRRS) in and TWO 3-poles out (TRS).
>The headband padding gap isn't quite enough. Unlike the HD650 where I can't feel pressure on the top center of my head due to the padding gap, the HD800's padding is thin enough that once worn, it just compresses down like a normal headband, with pressure on the top center of my head.
My friend also has this problem when he tried my HD800, saying he prefers HD650 comfort while it's the opposite for me. Btw you can buy this to help solve that problem.
>The earpad material feels like cheap pool table felt. I find this odd considering its alcantara. I was hoping it would feel more velvety smooth like the Sony's fantastic F1 ecsaine, or even up to par with Beyer's velour. Although, not as bad as Philips X1/X2 chemical smell, prickly velour.
It's an expensive microsuede though and it does the job.
>Finally, the earcup depth is pretty shallow and they're almost too big in circumference. I'm finding my ears are pressed against the felt of the drivers and my jaw can get irritated by how big the earcups are. That's pretty YMMV due to head/ear size.
wat
There are hardly people who complain about HD800's comfort so I guess you're in the minority. IME, the HD800 is so freaking comfy.
And no I hope Sennheiser won't release new flagship.
The dongle is only slightly annoying. You can get a keychain that has a headphone plug on it to put the dongle on. I always have one with me, here’s a link to anyone who is interested https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSYT8HH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_F0F4Bb0ZP5XY6