(Part 3) Best soldering & brazing equipment according to redditors

op pls, you're giving me anxiety

These are super reliable and super effective. $265

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FR-301-Desoldering-Tool/dp/B07BKSLLG9/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1539496196&sr=8-6&keywords=desoldering+gun

This one gets good reviews and Amazon and is more affordable. $200

https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Function-Soldering-Desoldering-Absorber/dp/B009Q5ZH58/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1539496394&sr=8-27&keywords=desoldering+gun

These are really good if you clean it often as you use it and are even more affordable. $99

https://www.amazon.com/Desoldering-S-993A-Electric-Suction-Desordering/dp/B073TRPBHM/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1539496513&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=desoldering+gun&psc=1#customerReviews

Everybody should double wrap and mark your batteries the second you get them, especially since 80% of the people probably don't follow Mooch's guides and get batteries from reputable places, but even then, especially 30q's are flimsy.

18650 wraps: https://www.amazon.com/Coil-Master-Battery-Authentic-Replacement/dp/B06ZZS6WVY

Insulators: https://www.amazon.com/ThreeBulls-Cardboard-Insulators-Electrical-Insulating/dp/B074P6FNSK

It's important to get an efficient hot air gun like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RK2M2Y

DJlsb did a video a while ago: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yHXSqgw6qpY

Edit: You can get the wraps/insulators way cheaper from the links that mooch recommends but I'd get the hot air gun from Amazon.

Gentle application of a lower-power heat gun, tweezers, and patience.

Link to lower power heat gun example

I need to tighten up my soldering game since I have a mod in need of repair and want to build a DNA200 squonker. Thinking about ordering this station. I know dick about about this stuff... my only iron is probably 25 years old. Thoughts?

Despite how old these videos are I found them amazing for "reteaching" myself how to solder. It also does a great job of explaining what you want in an iron, and why cheap irons don't do well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIT4ra6Mo0s&list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837

I've had great luck with this iron https://amzn.com/B00FZPSX3G. I also got the tip cleaning paste (so nice to have) and the "gold" tip cleaning brush. Along with the helping hand board holder. And of course some solder wick. I'm going to get a solder sucker as well. Decent equipment goes a LONG ways in soldering.

considering the pin density of that socket if you have a vacuum iron you could get it off. but it's a specialty tool and not really affordable for one hobby job... so :(

they're a soldering iron but hollow and a vacuum pump attached to them. you melt the solder around the pin and hit the suck button. it pulls the solder cleanly out of the hole. do all the pins and out it comes.

Propane soldering irons are fairly cheap and really useful, I've been looking at them recently and I'll get one next week. You can use them to remove supports, make your prints smoother, cut off small zits and all that.

I'm looking at something like this.

This $20 Kit on Amazon might be goo entry level... I have NO idea if the iron is any god but have seen people use them and they work fine. This one comes with a multimeter for a few bucks more. The tool you will find a lot of use for is that curved tweezer. It can open switches, hold components, pick up clipped resistor/diode leads etc.

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If you have never soldered do NOT let an expensive keyboard be the first time... get some PCB's and resistors and then watch youtube videos of soldering... Pete from 1upkeyboards has tons... you might need to scrub through to get to the soldering or just search youtube for soldering videos. Soldering is not that hard but if you do not know what you are doing it is easy to scew the board up and ruining a board sucks.

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Think twice, solder once... the biggest mistakes are not thinking it through and then you find you soldered the switches and plate BEFORE the stabilizers or the Pro Micro before switches and desoldering is a pita and is easy to burn the pads.

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Try the Sweet16 or the 9Key first. You have to setup the QMK software no matter what so those are nice affordable ways to get a board built fast and then build and flash your firmware.

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Have fun.

ZeopoCase Mini Hot Air Gun, Portable Mini Heat Gun for DIY Embossing Shrink Wrapping Drying Paint, 300W Multi Function Electrical Heat Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073RK2M2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i-1XDbHHPWGVH

Best purchase I made when I started collecting. This sits next to me as I crack open new figs. Stuck joints. Stiff hair. Crooked weapons and accessories. 👍👍
Sincerely,
Billy Mays

Keep a cup/bowl of cold water nearby to set the plastic once you have it where you want it.

I'm still pretty new to this myself, but like you I have some electronics experience in the past. I just got this Weller 40w iron station with a desolder braid/sucker and a solder tip cleaner. Oh and a more precise tip for the solder iron

I'm really happy with it all so far, and couln't imagine needing more for a while. A heat gun would be nice for de-soldering and reflowing premade boards (like modding Boss pedals), but that can also be done with a regular solder iron as far as I know. You can get the above for about $60 total, so it's a nice way to get your feet wet without a huge investment. Then you gotta add on components/enclosures/pots/switches etc. Maybe get a helping hands and/or circuit holder if you need

Oh and get a good multimeter. I went a step up from the $20 ones and got this one which I'm also really happy with.

I use this xtronic https://www.amazon.com/X-TRONIC-MODEL-4010-XTS-Digital-Soldering/dp/B0053491YO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1518918401&sr=8-5&keywords=soldering+iron+xtronic and it has been very good. I think it gives a lot of the premium features of the hakko but with savings.

It shouldn't be too difficult, but... It's kind of a "good news / bad news" situation.

The good; The actual process of disconnecting the mic, stripping the connection, and soldering in the new jack would take maybe 10 minutes, assuming you don't care how pretty it is. A cheap soldering kit with a meter like the one I just found HERE is all you really need, tool wise. Add another few bucks for the new jack and you're all set.

The bad; Line level and mic level are quite different beasts, so simply replacing a mic-in with a line-in could lead to some pretty bad distortion. The ease of the project is entirely dependant on the quality of the tape deck we're talking about. Basically, there are two ways this could go: Either you pull out the mic and it's an entirely enclosed system that the maker added on after designing the rest of the unit, or it's just a mic that sends a raw signal to processors on the main circuit board. There could be extra problems with both scenarios, but the first one is what you're hoping for. No matter what, it may require additional gear to either amplify or attenuate the line-in signal to match the original input level.

I'm sure there are a ton of people who are FAR more experienced than I am with this, so you really should hold out for someone who could do it better. I haven't touched a soldering iron in over a decade, but I do have a degree in audio, so it's not like I'm a complete novice. If nobody else steps up, I could at least take a look and tell you how hard of a project it would actually be.

I am using this currently but this is coming in the mail tomorrow ;) along with some more lube and solder.

Edit: I have built all of my boards with the Weller without any issues. I also have a desoldering iron which is 10x better than the pump. If you ever plan on desoldering pick yourself up the desoldering iron for the extra 10 bucks. The solder pumps will break and you will end up spending that much on them anyways so its definitely worth it.

This maybe, or this. I spent no more than that on mine and it's seen me through 6 builds/rebuilds so far, and it's still working.

A proper soldering station is nice, but you can definitely get by with cheap stuff, especially if you don't plan on using it a ton.

It'll certainly work, but I don't know how well. The larger the flame, the less control you have over the color pattern.

I usually use this butane torch on a low setting for ring-sized items. It puts out a blue flame a little thinner than a pencil. The narrow flame allows you to concentrate the heat in a very small area, leaving narrow color bands.

I've also used this torch head with propane. It colors the steel just fine, but the color bands are considerably wider because it's harder to concentrate the heat.

Either way makes for an interesting piece, of course.

Wick or something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Digital-Desoldering-Station-Built/dp/B00ABJ4AEC

If you are a total noob, I suggest you just get any 60 W soldering iron. Really. This one suits you and cost less than $10. Because getting a FX-888D now is like killing mosquitoes with cannons.

You also may need a stand where to rest the iron when not using it. It comes with a sponge so you can clean the iron tip from time to time (just don't forget to wet it before use).

Finally, you will need some solder. Stay away from lead-free solder, this stuff isn't for amateurs. Get a good-old 63/37 solder with rosin flux core, this one have a 0.3 mm diameter, small enough to even solder SMD components (but don't start with them, they need more practice to be hand-soldered).

Soldering isn't a difficult skill but it requires practice. So you better start small and take easy steps. In no time you will be soldering SMD components. :)

PS: you also want to get some desoldering wick and a hand vacuum pump/solder sucker, those are more useful than you might think.

DISCLAIMER: all these items are just suggestions, buy whatever you think is more useful for you. Just wanted to give you a start point.

This was what I found: http://www.amazon.com/Desoldering-Station-Digital-Temperature-Controlled/dp/B00KQ6PR6K

Here's a different style one for $145, prime eligible (free 2 day shipping if you're a Prime member.) Seems to have a decent review rating (with a few caveats).

It may not be necessary to have a torch, but it helps immensely when trying to build contact coils.

As far as convincing someone that the torch is safe, i would suggest going with a high quality torch. I like the blazer line, and have been using one for over 3 years. I also use it a lot now that I don't smoke and can never find a lighter, so it could be purchased to 'light charcoal'.

Do not get a cheap radioshack soldering iron. Get a cheap Chinese soldering iron off amazon. Something with a digital temp gauge. I’ll edit this comment with a link to the one I have later. Their are a couple different methods to this job. Some people get little angled clippers and clip the 4 legs off of the tact switch and then heat up the solder and pull out the legs this method is easy but you risk cutting into the board. The other method is to properly use a solder sucker / solder wick and desolder the old switches. Do not hold the soldering iron to this board for too long you will pull traces. Believe me I did it my first time. Soldering is not that difficult but with everything the more you practice the better you become. I think some early mistakes are using too much solder, you really don’t need a lot.


My soldering set up: Soldering iron

better solder tip cleaner

better solder sucker

better solder (reccomended)

Also if you’re soldering leaded solder indoors maybe think about your health and what you’re inhaling.
air filter

Last words: everything in that kit will get you by just fine. Personally I think the solder it comes with is garbage. I hate the cheap solder suckers and I use them so often I bought that other one. Keep your iron tips clean. This means basically run some solder on the tip and dunk it in that gold wire mesh often. If your tip is getting dark it’s getting too hot and will have a harder time flowing solder. Keep it nice and shiny.

I personally recommend this over the hakko - https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Function-Soldering-Desoldering-Absorber/dp/B009Q5ZH58/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494113285&sr=8-3&keywords=aoyue+desoldering

it has a desoldering station

Anbes Soldering Iron Kit 60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Tool,Digital Multimeter,2pcs Soldering Iron Tips,Desoldering Pump,Wire Stripper Cutter,Tweezers,Soldering Iron Stand,2pcs Electronic Wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073VDX4B7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ejW0CbSGX1M1G

Hit up local surplus stores, used office supply places, craigslist, garage sales, estate sales, etc. for desks, tables and the like. I haven't paid a dime for any of the furniture in my shack. The desk was a throwaway from my workplace, the metal legged desk with the amp and tuner was a friends reloading bench that he outgrew, the skinny table with the laptops was rescued from another friends garage. Just gotta keep an eye out for good deals, people or businesses getting rid of stuff, or friends with overstuffed garages.

Ham software isn't particularly demanding. Any decent computer made in the last 10 years is going to run all of that stuff just fine, so no specific recommendations there.

Something like this all you need for soldering station ventilation. They suck the fumes out of your work area into a carbon filter that you replace occasionally.

I have used these:

https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Benchtop-Solder-Smoke-Absorber/dp/B001RLZGKK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482366907&sr=8-1&keywords=solder+air+filter

They work well enough, but because of the filter you have to have it pretty close to your face. That filter limits a ton of airflow. I have also used these:

https://www.amazon.com/Weller-Extraction-System-Economy-Wfe2Eskit1/dp/B00HDSHYGU/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1482367114&sr=8-19&keywords=solder+fume+extractor

The brand I used was Hakko, but on amazon they didnt have it pictured with the hose. That hose makes it a lot easier to keep your ventilation convenient and out of the way and also provides a stronger suction so you don't have to sit as close.

Dremel and Bernzomatic both sell small butane torches for around $30.

I own the Dremel. (It was a gift). I expected it to be hot garbage. Surprisingly, it is not hot garbage.

This is the torch I use. I like it a lot, and it is surprisingly fuel-efficient, though doesn't work for creme brulee.

I also like Rio Grande for my jewelry supplies (including silver if you know what you need). You can buy copper from the hardware store, and if there is a jewelry supply store where you live that would obviously be ideal.

Different kinds of flux work in different ways, but I've never had trouble using any particular type as long as it was clean. As a reminder, being successful in jewelry-level soldering is mostly about having a clean join (and solder does not bridge a gap).

You can solder silver and copper together without trouble, but the line will not blur. Since the solder is silver-colored, ideally you will use exactly the amount you need whenever soldering copper, and then can sand off any excess solder so there isn't messy silver solder all over the copper surface. There are also ways to copper plate something entirely, but that doesn't sound like what you're looking for.

Let me know if you have other questions!

A pair if needle tip tweezers and a hi-powered magnifying glass (mounted a cheap $5 camera +10 macro filter) onto a $10 Flexible Helping Hand)

Electronics tools like soldering iron, multimeter.

Hakko FX601-02 - This model is pretty popular for stained glass. I picked it up and am very happy with it. Heats up super fast and doesnt go cool too quickly which is good for this work. Wattage might seem low but it doesnt need as much wattage as a typical solder pen. Temp control is a good feature.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPSX3G

Shouts to the Ben heck show and Felix for showing me these it's amazing. ive used the normal kind but these are far better

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010C504NK/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1473117368&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=soldering+helping+hands

It's a Load-as-You-Go device that works best when you use small amounts of concentrate ~ the size of a bb (4.3mm). Any more than that and you risk overloading the coil and burning the oil and/or making a splattery mess by the time you do manage to vape it all out of there.

Hair dryers work great for heating up the syringes and with a bit of practice, you can use a heat gun to get the oil to the consistency of water in a matter of seconds.

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here's the battery.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071S9JCNT

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heat gun

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RK2M2Y

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optional tool kit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015JKXLVK

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i didn't even really need the optional tool kit i ordered, but nice to have.

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here's the vid i watched for reference. skip from 3:30 - 5:08 as that does not need to be done.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1uFZHSWU4c&t

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I used the cheap weller for Christmas decorations and it was ok. If I wanted to go deeper I'd invest in a burner that I won't burn my fingers on the tip so easily. I'd really like this one, but out of my price range
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GAFZDBE?psc=1

Here's the cheap weller I used. https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WSB25WB-25-Watt-Barrel-Woodburning/dp/B000EMBEY0

i'm gonna go with what everyone else says: get a decent temp adjusting iron. it makes a world of a difference...add to that a small chisel tip (usually not provided on a cheap pen iron)...such much easier and enjoyable soldering. though, its not worth spending 80-300 dollars on a soldering iron for one project..

i use/recommend:

• an x-tronic station/iron $90 sponge+light/magnifier+tips+replacement heat element
  
  
• a hakko soldering tip cleaner $10
  
  also another good affordable iron:
  
  
• hakko fx-888 station/iron $90 sponge+cleaner
  
  everyone says weller...and its because they dropped the money on one and want other people to do the same haha...if you have the money, sure go for it. if not, many stations in the 80-100 range are excellent quality to begin on.
  
  also get a helping hand, tweezers, needle nose pliers, snips, and maybe a wire stripper.

My grandfather was a woodworker and I grew up spending my time after school in his downstairs shop. About 10 years ago, I made a rocking chair for my friends daughter, and I wanted to sign my name. My grandfather tossed me a little tool that I had never seen before. It was somewhat like a solderer, but not. I always liked to draw, but when I got the pyrography pen in my hand, I fell in love...mostly because there were real "stakes", if you messed up, you mostly ruined the piece. So, I ended up doing a whole pirate flag instead of my name on the bottom of the chair. That year for my birthday, he bought me a burner and it sat in my closet until we moved. So, a few years back, my wife was making me throw out/give away a bunch of junk and it made its way into a box. I thought, "why not give it a go before I give it away, and I was hooked all over again.

I have since moved to a more advanced tool, but here it is: https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WSB25WB-25-Watt-Barrel-Woodburning/dp/B000EMBEY0/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1474580064&sr=8-7&keywords=woodburning+tips

I just kind of started and googled specific questions (for example the flat end of an exacto blade can act as an eraser if you are patient) If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask!

Love the video. It's got me wanting to make one.

I agree that SMT components can be a real pain to solder. Solder paste can make it easier from what I've found.

I would also recommend some sort of fume absorber for future projects. Solder fumes can be quite bad for you. Something cheap like this one will do: http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Benchtop-Solder-Smoke-Absorber/dp/B001RLZGKK/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_1/191-3889258-7727754?ie=UTF8&refRID=0V2ZWAJQEA5HDKV361CP

If I had nothing and wanted to purchase decent quality stuff but still being affordable, I'd do the following.

Multimeter $45

Soldering Station $38

Solder $25

Desoldering Pump $6

If this is the only time you ever plan on soldering, then you can get away with the cheap stuff. You could probably source some of it locally for cheaper. None of this is great quality, but it will do the job for a 1 time project. While I wouldn't enjoy it, I could build an Ergodox with the following setup.

Desoldering Pump $6

Multimeter $13

Solder $9

Soldering Iron $8

Iron Holder $6

If you are looking for a cheaper desoldering iron I put this thing through hell and its still chugging - also you can buy parts from sra-solder.com

I have this Porter Cable one and like it: https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PC1500HG-1500-Watt-Heat-Gun/dp/B004Q04X44/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=porter+cable+heat+gun&qid=1565114996&s=gateway&sr=8-3

A pretty important feature to not overlook is being able to set it down safely right after use without the risk of burning or melting something.

The capacitor was nothing fancy, just a 2200uF capacitor. Apparently that one capacitor tends to be a bit of an issue in that model of player for whatever reason...

I'm pretty sure that the iron I have is this one along with a holder that looks just like this one, though I'd have to go double-check the iron to be sure that's the one I have. Seems to work pretty well, and you can replace the stock tip with this little pointy one to work on small stuff better.

I've been happy with this super cheapie for regular shop repair and prototyping use for a year or two: http://www.amazon.com/X-TRONIC-4040-Soldering-Assorted-MAGNIFYING/dp/B003TC8EQS/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1319760013&sr=1-9

For the price the heat is consistent and the performance is solid. The only issue I've had is that the ceramic element in the soldering iron is a bit too small for the hot knife tip and should you actually use it the tip can shift which cracks the ceramic. This means you have to use the replacement ceramic that they include earlier than if it just wore out while soldering. I was able to quickly get a replacement tip from the company though.

Clippers

Iron

Tip for iron

Don’t forget, you need one with a tip the size of a pen. Any bigger and you will burn your pcb. This is a decent one that I use

Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Weller ST7 ST Series Conical Solder Tip Hobbyist for WP25, WP30 and WP35 Irons, 0.31" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BSP4K?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

OMorc Desoldering Wick, Solder Sucker & Solder Braid (2.5mm Width, 1.5m Length) – Desoldering Vacuum Pump Solder Removal Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I14V4X8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Sometimes for the smaller welds, like on LEDs, try adding solder before sucking.

I have one of these. I turn the knob about 90° for the sweet spot. On the minimum it feels like someone is just blowing on my face unless I'm physically touching the exhaust. I'm sure there are some guns that require min settings though.

I literally bought my first ever soldering iron a week ago. It was $20 on Amazon and changed out the batteries in all my Pokemon games in less than 5 minutes. Just watch some YouTube tutorials.

In many ways this university is the worst public school I have ever attended. I think that is because as opposed to my community college which is trying to get people to transfer to a 4 year school, the university is overtly focus on filter kids out of qualifying for graduate school. The university is a social filter and the way they go about it was utter culture shock to me upon first transferring.

I'm a re-entry student (34 years old) at a University of California school (Santa Cruz) and we are locked out of most of the laboratories outside of our class session, where the room sits idle... Everything, oscilloscopes, multi-meters, desktops and monitors, is cable tied and padlocked not only down to an anchor point but together as well. So if I turn my monitor vertically, invariably all of the rest of the equipment gets pulled violently along with it.

Anyhow, I'm even more disinclined to buy tools because I already have a great deal of kit, just not here in my dorm room... My "soldering station" is actually the Hakko FX601-02

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX601-02-Adjustable-Temperature-Controlled/dp/B00FZPSX3G#customerReviews

But for PCB electronics I just use a vintage 15 watt...

I appreciate you telling me about the Iris because maybe I can get my nephews to try and build it for me, or burn my sisters house down trying...

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GLE2016 Electric Soldering Iron Kit 60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Soldering Iron with 5pcs Different Tips, 1 Solder Wire 1.0mm Dia. (Soldering Irons) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N413T8U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kbZxCb3B839HK

60w adjustable for 11 bucks. Can't beat it.

Those are fine but honestly you don't need all those extra bit and bobs.

Just get the same basic soldering iron off Amazon, a desoldering iron like this one or a desoldering pump.

This is what I use. I used to use a solder sucker but those can be troublesome at times

I recently bought one of these for myself and I couldn't be happier as a DIY hobbyist:

Hakko Dial type temperature limiting soldering iron FX600

I only use it for hobby stuff such as Quadcopters, 3D printers and electronics kits but it's way better than the 8watt USB powered I was using before.

Pair it with this and this and you should be good for a while and roughly within budget.

Positive 333! :D

Here's a 'PORTER-CABLE PC1500HG 1500-Watt Heat Gun' for $30.

https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Function-Soldering-Desoldering-Absorber/dp/B009Q5ZH58/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501447394&sr=8-2&keywords=desoldering+station

Never look back

I had a heat gun on hand. I've heard that a hair dryer will work, but can't vouch for the effectiveness. If you want to get a heat gun, I have this one, and it worked very well.

If you have none of those tools and that's all you can afford it's not the end of the world but in general you should beware most any "entry kit" type product like that. I just looked on amazon and there are kits like this for under $30 that include a soldering iron, tweezers, solder sucker, and even a fucking multimeter all in a travel case.

Looks great on the surface but what that really means is that all of those tools are hot garbage to leave them any room for profit. Maybe they'll be fine, maybe they won't, but they're definitely going to be the cheapest versions available.

Try to focus your money on specifically the tools you need and look for something in the middle of the price range among available options and you'll be fine.

~2 letters.

I use the Weller Wood Burning Kit which has a whole bunch of neat tips including a collet for an x-acto blade. Some of the others are nice flat tips for setting captured nuts, etc.

A small vise or helping hand can be invaluable, if using a helping hand I recommend wrapping the alligator clip hands in a couple layers of electrical tape as they can be quite sharp and scratch up connectors and such. Since there's virtually no risk in damaging components, most soldering irons between 60-120W should work well. Any 60/40 rosin core solder will work, if you're unable to get leaded solder due to local regulations, I've heard the 99% tin stuff is decent, again just make sure it has rosin core. A smaller tip might be beneficial if using smaller connectors such as 2.5mm. A solder sucker and wick is useful if any mistakes are made. Lastly, a DMM is helpful to make sure there are no shorts and that all connections have continuity and low resistance.

It's completely fine, but if it bothers you visually (it did me), get yourself a small heat gun like this one and re wrapping will be fast, easy, and visually spotless.

Here is the heat gun that I'm currently using-- http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-PC1500HG-1500-Watt-Heat-Gun/dp/B004Q04X44/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1367375505&sr=8-4&keywords=heat+gun

I've used it a few times a week for several weeks now without any complaints. It took a little while to figure out the settings, but I basically start with the highest fan setting and almost max heat for about 6 minutes. After the beans are brownsh, I switch to max heat and hit first crack in roughly 8-10 minutes. I usually try and stop before second crack and I've been pleased with the results.

The only thing I've done to help prolong the life of the gun is cut a pair of pantyhose to put over the back fans on the gun. When I'm roasting, the chaff flies everywhere, and I noticed it was getting sucked into the back of the gun. While it seems silly, this has helped keep the gun from getting any chaff stuck in it.

As far as the bowl, I just picked up a cheap stainless steel bowl from Target. I actually have a bread maker, but the Teflon coating worried me, and I think using a bowl works well.

Good luck on your first roast and let us know how it goes!

Thank you for the recommendation. I still feel like I'm leaning towards the less expensive model because I don't understand what the extra 50 bucks gets me. My other hobby is guns, and I go through this all the time with new gun buyers- "Why should I get a glock when a Hi point does the same exact thing (shoot bullets) for $350 less" then sure enough, a few months later they are trading their shitty Hi point for a glock. It's no thatthey are stingy, they just aren't educated enough to understand the greater reliability, features, aftermarket support, etc that spending the extra couple hundo buys em... Anyways, I recognize that I am an uneducated buyer, and I don't want to be Hi point guy!

Can you give me an idea of what the advantages of this iron are vs a less expensive model, like this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FZPSX3G?cache=9eadc5f058366bac4fcb6fef6c6934d2&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1406100528&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

Also, will a light user such as myself (I might do two okr/raptor boxes and one random repair/small project) really be getting a better user experience and making better solder joints with the Hakko?

Helping Hands Third Hand Soldering Tool
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010C504NK/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'd suggest:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000AS28UC

Plus a smaller tip:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002BSP4K

Weller is a highly trusted brand and buying a variable one means you'll likely never need another soldering iron for any job.

Other items:

Solder itself

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00068IJPO

In case you mess up:

Either a solder sucker

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005GIPKOW

or solder wick


Nice but not needed(since that iron comes with a sponge):


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FZPGDLA

those solder suckers are bulky and a bit akward to use. These (below) work just as well as the bigger ones and can be used with one hand easily enough (https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Desoldering-solder-Length-Removal/dp/B01ESUKNXG/ref=pd_sim_328_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01ESUKNXG&pd_rd_r=1RRJG43KPE2SYH7RZJEX&pd_rd_w=CzypZ&pd_rd_wg=2nk8D&psc=1&refRID=1RRJG43KPE2SYH7RZJEX)

Here’s what I’ve been using. Nice and pointy.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BSP4K

Well damn it. Thanks a ton for the help. Is this really all I need? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ESUKNXG?psc=1

I haven't actually used mine for anything yet because I kind of got burned out doing technical hobbies after a technical workweek, but I decided I'd pick up one of these anyway, which hits a lot of the electronics test stuff you mentioned:

https://store.digilentinc.com/analog-discovery-2-100msps-usb-oscilloscope-logic-analyzer-and-variable-power-supply/

Ton of features for the price.

I use a 8-channel Saleae logic analyzer at work which is awesome, has really nice-looking software, and is priced reasonably for a home lab, but the AD2 does a lot more for not much more money. A decent multimeter is always useful. I used a $50 Radio Shack unit for a long time, but when it died, I picked up a really nice used Fluke 179 on eBay. Get some extra fuses for the fused current ports.

I definitely would buy a home 3D printer if I were into technical hobbies right now. I spent so much time using hand tools to lash together ugly electromechanical stuff for ham radio antennas and tuning networks before 3D printers were affordable. Agree that digital calipers are a great addition. I've found really cheap ones to be adequate at home.

For general electronics stock, even if the work's focused on microcontroller/IoT/digital, I like stocking up on small general-purpose capacitor and resistor assortments from places like Jameco, and then I order extra on the 220, 330, 1k, and 10k ohm resistors. For caps I'll get extra 0.1 and 1uF ceramic capacitors and 10uF or so tantalum electrolytics, all at 25V or higher, all to do power bypassing.

I've always found it useful to stock up on 3.3V and 5V voltage regulators at least. I usually keep some "adjustable" ones around as well. The classic LM78xx regulators are still pretty useful for general messing around. You can order what you really need later if you want something more compact or more efficient. But it's always nice to not have to wait for a DigiKey order just because you want to prototype a thing with a 3.3V microcontroller that plugs into your car's cigarette lighter auxiliary power jack.

I'm very into color coding my wiring, but find regular hookup wire to be too bulky for most board-to-board work in projects I'm working on. These days I buy long rolls of rainbow ribbon cable and tear it apart as necessary. It's nice to have a couple rolls of heavier black and red hookup wire for higher-current power leads.

I have a deep hatred of intermittent wire failures from flexing, and also get sick of perma-tangled spiderwebs that result from soldering both ends of things as I add things to a design. So I've started to favor crimped header connectors for wire-to-board connections to the point where I picked some up for the home lab. I like these Harwin M20s https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/m20-series/32875 ... easy to pull the contacts and re-configure or even re-use by lifting the plastic tabs with a jeweler's screwdriver. I'll still often solder at least one end of the cable directly to a board... usually solder to a sensor board and connectorize the microcontroller end or something like that.

I've had good luck crimping them with this cheap crimping tool: https://www.inventables.com/technologies/crimping-tool

Lots of small cable ties.

If you do a lot of soldering, a good third-(& fourth & fifth) hand system is great. I like the cutting-fluid-conduit style ones like this

https://www.amazon.com/Hobby-Creek-Helping-Hands-Soldering/dp/B010C504NK

I don't really have one at home right now. I built the ones I've got at work from parts from McMaster Carr.

Thanks, I'll try that one out. I ended up getting this one which doesn't seem to work super well. I'm trying to avoid getting one of these just to fix my fuck-ups... :)

Thanks for so many suggestions! I won't be doing much out of the ordinary. It's mostly occasional hobby stuff. The most complicated projects I can see myself taking on is the Useless box kit and the Mintypi emulator system, which, from what I've seen, don't seem to require a degree or god levels of skill, time, and precision to complete. Then again, that could just be me overestimating my own skill.

Since it has been a while, I've already submitted my Christmas list to my dad with all the stuff I want, and since we're on a budget I went with this set. It isn't a Hakko by any means, but it looks fine for what I need it for. I will definitely keep those Hakkos in mind, though. I'll be needing an upgrade for when I decide to pick up bigger projects in the future!

I have everything else covered except for the heat resistant mat. I can see it not only protecting my wooden desk, but also containing and solder bits that might fly around if I'm solder sucking away mistakes or oversoldering my iron (I'm so cautious it's unlikely, but you never know). I'll see if I can weasel it in. ;P

That wax like block may have been flux.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049774

you can clean your tip with a brass sponge or a wet regular sponge (that's what I use) I've had my iron for years. I clean the tip frequently while using it. It will last for years to come. If you get soldering station like a Weller (this is the one I have) or a Hakko You will be able to change the tips. This is good for replacing damaged ones or getting different shaped/sized tips. To me having a "nice" soldering iron makes it more enjoyable to solder. Also get or make a fume extractor.

I have one those wood-burning irons. Kind of like this one - link. I believe that is pretty much the same thing. And it's from a dollar-store. I don't mind if it will get solder on it.

I'm a guy, but was still concerned about lead exposure. I have a workshop in my basement, but bought a fume extractor. I recently had a physical and asked the doc to do a blood test for lead exposure. No lead found! I guess it works pretty well.

Be sure to wash your hands after soldering and/or wear gloves.

I was thinking something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX601-02-Adjustable-Temperature-Controlled/dp/B00FZPSX3G/
which would be possible anywhere a mains powered iron is. Using a station in the field would be a little overkill :)

though now that I see that I remember I have a hakko 15w iron that's unregulated, and it worked well enough when I used it.

This one on Amazon seems to have pretty good reviews. I'd recommend getting a stand like this to go with it for safety reasons. (I decided to solder without mine a few weeks ago, and wouldn't you know it, the one time I decide I don't need the stand, I burn myself!)

You can easily spend a lot more on irons, and if you start doing a lot more soldering you may want to make a bigger investment. A lot of people really like the Hakko FX888D, but I personally prefer the Weller WTCPT-60 because I don't like fussing with knobs. (Despite not having a knob, the Weller actually does have very precise temperature control, but depending on what temperature you want you have to buy different tips, which isn't worth the hassle for most people. I use only one kind of solder so it doesn't matter for me, but I digress.)

I've never found any tutorials I really like, and my advice is to just get busy! You'll make a lot of mistakes and do a lot of projects slowly before you get good, and I don't think there's a tutorial out there that will let you skip that. To help you stay pointed in the right direction, here are a few things I look for in a good solder joint:

• A clean, consistent meniscus around the parts being soldered. If I'm tinning stranded wire, then I want to be able to see the contours of the strands underneath the solder once it's cooled, while still using enough solder to get good penetration. Big gobs of solder all over the place look tacky, can cause shorts, and can indicate the next problem:
  
• "Cold" solder joints. By this I mean that the conductors you're soldering together weren't hot enough when the solder melted, and so the solder didn't stick. Solder on "cold" joints will often (but not always) have a frosty appearance, and will usually bead up instead of forming a meniscus like I described earlier. To make sure your joints aren't cold, use the iron to heat the joint, then touch the solder to the joint (rather than the iron), to melt it. If the conductor is hot enough to melt solder by itself, you can be sure you're joints won't be cold. (Usually you have to melt a little gob of solder onto the iron first to get the heat to conduct into the joint. This is a trick you can only get good at through practice.)
  
  There are a few intuition issues you should be aware of that I've observed while teaching students to solder. For instance, most of the stuff you'll be soldering is so small that it will be "cold" (as in "too cold to melt solder") the instant you pull the iron away, and cool enough to touch within seconds. Try it if you don't believe me. The part will only stay hot as long as the iron is touching it. You'd be surprised how many people can't get their head around this.
  
  Also, oxygen is your enemy. The longer the part is hot, the more oxidized the surface will become and the harder it will be for solder to stick. This is true even when the joint is hot, but not hot enough to melt solder! So once the iron contacts the work, you have to be expedient. Most joints can be finished in 5 seconds or less, and if you're holding the iron on there for 10 seconds or more but the solder still isn't melting, stop and reexamine what you're doing. You may want to get some fine-grit sandpaper to clean the conductors off before you start again.
  
  Keeping oxygen out of your solder joint is the job of flux, and like /u/avialex (edit: fixed) said it's very helpful (provided everything is relatively clean to begin with). But again it's a balancing act. If you use too much flux you'll make a mess, and raw flux is slightly corrosive and can be very difficult to clean off your work.
  
  There are lots of other tricks you'll learn through practice too. I guess that's where tutorials might come in handy. You'll probably learn to splice wires (probably the most difficult thing to do with a soldering iron) much more quickly from someone with experience on Youtube than struggling through it 20,000 times yourself, doing it a harder way because you didn't know any better.
  
  At the same time though, there's no substitute for practice. This went on a lot longer than I intended, but I think now you have plenty of information to keep in mind as you get started. Good luck and happy soldering!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KQ6PR6K/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ABJ4AEC/

I like to use a rework station, to reheat plastic parts for touch ups... You could probably connect the two halves and then heat the seam up to get it to hold. Then if you're really worried about the seam, you can heat it up and smooth it out.

This one?

The Hakko are nice irons, we have several of the older 900 series irons in the office, and with the large and affordable tip options, they are great. Replacement parts are easy to come by. Now there are lots of other companies selling compatible parts. I recently for home picked up this unit from X-Tronic. It's not "pretty" but does a good job, compatible with the Hakko tips, and heater elements. Also comes with replacement heater elements for both the iron, and the hot air tool which was it's selling point over the a bit cheaper (same unit) model from Circuit Specialists.

http://www.amazon.com/X-TRONIC-MODEL-4040-Soldering-MAGNIFYING/dp/B003TC8EQS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406830377&sr=8-1&keywords=X-Tronic+4040

Would this kit be ok?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9RLBR1/ref=psdc_3207126011_t3_B06XZ31W3M

Would this be a good option from Xtronic?

X-TRONIC MODEL #4010-XTS - 4000 SERIES - Digital Soldering Iron Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0053491YO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AxELAbEGN10R4

It's currently on a deep sale and I'm thinking about pouncing in it.

https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WSB25WB-25-Watt-Barrel-Woodburning/dp/B000EMBEY0

This is the exact kit I use with all the tips

I have one of these cheap desoldering stations. You'd probably want a Hakko for serious work, but it works well enough for hobby use.

Amazon

Glad you figured something out, there are these as well:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005P1TRAS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_rnXfxb9BQNTF9

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MJW08JK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_4nXfxbPS230AX

i never really liked woodburning as i was never an artist. that being said the one your looking at seems to be of iffy quality. if you wanna be the bast damn aunt or uncle id get him this one https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-2000-01-Precision-Butane-Soldering/dp/B00MJW08JK/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1493201538&sr=1-1&keywords=versa+tip

>Copy pasta'ed from my post a few months ago:

After doing some research, here are my top 3 budget soldering iron options. Thoughts?

My $4 Harbour Freight iron's tip is dissolving, and it's time I got a new iron. I don't solder super often, maybe a handful of times a month, so I can't really justify getting a nice $40 Weller soldering station. My budget is around $30. After doing some Google-Fu, and browsing through Amazon and Ebay, here are my top 3 budget choices:

• [Vastar Soldering Iron Kit] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01712N5C4?tag=bestseekers-20)
  
• [Sywon Soldering Iron Kit] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E1ISGH0?tag=bestseekers-20)
  
• [Aoyue 469 Soldering Station] (https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Variable-Soldering-Station-Removable/dp/B00MCVCHJM)
  
  I'm open to suggestions, comments, and questions regarding these choices. The Sywon Soldering Iron kit has nothing I really care about over the Vastar one, aside from a slightly nicer stand and sponge, and of course the carrying case. The Aoyue 469, being the only soldering station on the list, doesn't come with any flashy accessories unfortunately. A solder sucker would be nice, and I'll probably be glad of the extra tips that are included wit the two kit irons. However, if you guys think that the Aoyue 469 soldering station would be better quality, I might be willing to shell out a few bucks more for it, and pick up another tip or two.
  
  
  https://www.reddit.com/r/Nerf/comments/8bugth/after_doing_some_research_here_are_my_top_3/

Oboy, I'm probably the wrong person to ask. However, /u/BriThePiGuy recommends Joe Knows Electronics boxes, and /u/NeoMarxismIsEvil recommends the following:

> I would order some cheap assortment kits from people on aliexpress. These are the sort that come with like 10 of most common values of resistor, capacitor, etc.

> Other stuff:

> - WeMos d1 mini or mini pro
> - small i2c OLED displays
> - small LCD display
> - tacswitches (buttons)
> - SPDT switches
> - 74HC595 and 74HC165 shift registers
> - either bidirectional logic level shifter modules or mosfets and resistors needed to make them
> - 7 segment led displays (individual)
> - 8x8 led matrices
> - various environmental and physics sensors (often come as a kit of 20+ different modules)
> - extra breadboards
> - jumper wires
> - male and female header strips (for modules that lack pins)
> - cheap breadboard power supplies
> - voltage regulators (both LDO ICs and buck converter)
> - possibly some 4xAA or 4xAAA battery holders
> - trim pot assortment

> Those are just ideas. Some things like 7 seg led digits are pretty cheap and worth having a few of but not terribly important if you have a real display of some sort.

I personally like the assortment of bits I got in my Sparkfun Inventor's Kit, but found that I wanted more of the following:

• Jumpers, though it's since been recommended to me that I just use solid-core 22 AWG wire so I bought this wire kit and these automatic strippers
  
• Breadboards, both self-adhesive and solderable, and maybe some mini ones of each type.
  
• LEDs (RGB and single-color)
  
• A good selection of potentiometers and trimpots, both slide and radial, plus knobs for them if applicable
  
• More buttons of varying types, both clicky and quiet momentary ones (here's a quiet button that's nice)
  
• A good multimeter and maybe some extra probes
  
• Some power supplies, both 12v and 5v. Here's one that's supposed to do both simultaneously, but you'll need a molex plug (which Sparkfun inexplicably doesn't carry) unless you want to strip the end. You might also want some barrel jacks, and this cheap extension cable provides the male end.
  
• A variable power supply would probably also be very useful, but I haven't yet invested in one of those so I can't make a recommendation at this time.
  
• A good selection of resistors
  
• Alligator test clips, plus some with pigtails for prototyping on a breadboard with components that won't fit in those little holes
  
• Some heat shrink tubing and a heat gun that you should only use on the lowest setting for this purpose. When selecting heat shrink tubing, pay attention to it's shrink ratio and what size it'll end up being when you're done.
  
• A soldering kit and some solder. Note that all solders aren't created equal but the one I linked is supposed to be decent.
  
• If you get into larger gauge soldering (for home or automotive wiring), a propane torch will be handy, but you can get something like that for $20 with a propane tank at your local hardware store
  
• Some project boxes

So im gonna end up buying this because its going to allow me to check the voltage of the batteries as well plus its better value for my dollar:

https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Iron-Kit-Temperature-Desoldering/dp/B073VDX4B7/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539553716&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=solder+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=51P9eT8SbjL&ref=plSrch#immersive-view_1539553866516

I bought some thinner silver bearing rosin core solder at home depot today b/c the reviews in the listing said that spool was bigger and harder to use for electronics. My girlfriend wouldnt let me get the lead based stuff :/ (not much i can do lol) im also going to order some flux paste from amazon as well since you highly recommended i use it for the job. Then last but not least ive gotta order a battery, although i might get a few, gotta do some more research and find the right one.

Overall i think im gonna be good to go, found some older electronics from storage that im going to practice on and yeah, wouldnt have been as easy without all the info you provided! Thanks again, ill update you on how it all goes but wanted to share what i decided on buying! I’m Super excited to start this little project later week

I'm not sure what you mean by "...more controlled way to connect each button to ground".

As far as connecting wires to pins, soldering is often the best way. A tutorial on soldering would probably be useful if you've never done it before. I recommend lead free solder, some flux, and a cheapo soldering iron with a finer chisel tip. Such as, this one. Or, something comparable. Flux: Rosin Flux. You want to make sure it's a thick rosin based flux otherwise you may have to obsessively your joint and the surrounding area.

​

Google images:

http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/gc_diagram1.jpg

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Yy4Wdbp3cpM/VRYTb7T4fGI/AAAAAAAAAbU/AcAbPTgP05g/s1600/2015-03-27%2B17.22.34.jpg

http://gc-forever.com/mega/Ashen/Controller_Trimming/1.png

​

The button work by closing the circuit to ground. Personally. I would just solder the wires to the corresponding contacts on the PCB simply because it would make trouble shooting easier on an unknown board. A daisy chain could be fine, but only if all those grounds are a common ground, but with signals I'm not sure that can be relied upon. If they aren't a common ground, linking them could lead to unexpected/undesired behavior. You could probably use a voltmeter to carefully explore if they are a common ground, and if you find that they are, your daisy chain idea would probably be fine. I would use solder and cover joints with shrink tubing.

You can fuss with connectors, but that limits your options considerably.

Generally you'll want to mount the power supply somewhere on a wall or a shelf somewhere, and then run wire to the strips. Working with pre-made stuff, you won't be able to position things very well; those mostly work for under-cabinet lighting.

All the tapes work by having two copper traces along the length for a +12V and a ground. There are pads placed along the length that you can solder wires to, and marks for where you can cut the tape. Making this connection is pretty easy, even if you don't have soldering experience. If you're into DIY/woodworking stuff, it shouldn't be a problem.

The power supplies have a standard terminal block. These are basically little screws that clamp onto a bare wire. You simply need to be able to strip the end of a wire of its insulation to make the connection. Ideally you solder the wire first so the strands don't poke out and short on something, but that's optional.

To wire this all up, you'll need a wall-power cable (you can buy these pre-made, or simply cut the cord off a discarded appliance) to connect to the power supply. Then, you'll need to run paired wires to the actual strips themselves. Note that this is a 12V system, so the amperage can actually be considerable. A full strip is going to draw about 5 amps, so size the wire accordingly. 18AWG is a good start, but if you want to do a long run (>10feet) I'd go for 16AWG.

A simple iron is all you need (https://smile.amazon.com/GLE2016-Soldering-Adjustable-Temperature-Different/dp/B01N413T8U/ref=sr_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1542140733&sr=1-13&keywords=soldering+iron)

but the extras in a kit like this might be useful if you don't have any electronics tools: https://smile.amazon.com/Soldering-Electronics-Adjustable-Temperature-Portable/dp/B071VLFGXL/ref=sr_1_14?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1542140733&sr=1-14&keywords=soldering+iron

I got one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Digital-Desoldering-Station-Built/dp/B00ABJ4AEC

It's a lot bulkier than I like, but I desoldered a couple thousand switches with it, and now the risk of burning or lifting pads on unique pcbs for expensive boards is pretty much zero

That may work but I cannot say. This is a cheap kit that has the tip I'm talking about.

I cut the wire, soldered the individual wires,heat shrink tubing on each side, then a larger one to seal the whole splice, used a heat gun to shrink it, which also sets the glue in place.

I don’t see why more amps on your 600W ps should matter. As long as you’re providing exactly 24v, you should be fine.

I don’t know how long your run is, but you might end up w voltage drop towards the end of a very long run.

Buy something cheap then if you find you’re using it often then go for Weller or Hakko. My brother swears by the Hakko but I use a Weller. But I highly recommend buying stuff when you need it.

I have one of these, it works well. nfs though, just another option.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-2000-01-Precision-Butane-Soldering/dp/B00MJW08JK

Here's the video I used

I didn't use the battery kit linked above, but it looks similar and will work. If I might suggest a heat gun as well? I found I wasn't patient enough for a hair dryer and that one worked perfectly.

Here's a really good kit that has almost everything you could ask for. I would add a roll of solder and maybe tip cleaning wire if you really want, but the sponge will do.

http://www.amazon.com/X-TRONIC-MODEL-4010-XTS-Centigrade-ANTI-MAGNETIC/dp/B0053491YO/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1417388540&sr=1-4&keywords=soldering+iron+kit

That is a really good idea, I actually have a soldering iron but I need a better head for more precise work. think this will work in a v3 gearbox and this tip good enough for gearbox work? Thanks for your help man

You aren't worthless. Hell, the fact that you are even interested in doing things yourself is encouraging. You just need to be patient and scour CL and FB Marketplace for stuff people are practically giving away. Then, tear those things apart and build them into something good. Nobody hates you. You just need to consciously make the decision to wait for the stuff you want. First thing; get either one of those little Nobsound NS-01G chip amps or a stupid cheap old AVR used. That gives you a decent amp to start with. After that, look for cheap speakers you might not actually like, but could tear apart for drivers or crossover parts.

LEARN TO SOLDER. It's absolutely the most important skill you can have if you are serious about DIY and reclaiming stuff. A cheapo soldering iron kit is like $15 bucks on Amazon. This is actually the best deal because you ALSO get a multimeter, which is the OTHER thing you really need to know how to use.

Once you get that, you can tear apart all sorts of electronics and BUILD your own stuff, and save TONS of money through the years, AND learn a valuable skill as well.

Don't get discouraged. I'm sorry if I came across as harsh. It's just frustrating to see a person who obviously cares about getting good audio sort of shoot himself in the foot over and over.

I love my Wera screw drivers, but to me that is a personal preference.I believe this is the y wing

I have a Small Butane Heat torch that I use on almost every single 7 and up repair.
Butane Torch

I use guitar picks instead of playing cards.
thin ones are the best

Camping scissors
these fold and are sharp

That’s the small things I can think of if you want a larger list of things that are more expensive I can add to it.

I was able to complete my mod myself without doing any microsoldering before in my life - it was stressful, but not that difficult. I used these tools and followed Louis Rossmann's video:

https://www.amazon.com/Sywon-Soldering-Adjustable-Temperature-Desoldering/dp/B01E1ISGH0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503839179&sr=8-3&keywords=solder+kit

https://www.amazon.com/AMTECH-Solder-Flux-NC-559-V2-TF-16160/dp/B01DR62IYO/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1503839306&sr=1-1&keywords=amtech+nc-559-v2+tacky+flux

I've heard a helping hand kit like this is significantly better than the traditional ones you see everywhere. There's a DIY guide on how to make that one on Instructables.

Is there anything wrong with a conical tip like this? I soldered and desoldered plenty of switches with this just fine.

Opinions on these three soldering irons? It's only use will be for keyboards, and I don't anticipate building them as often as we all dream, haha. But I do want one that'll do the job well without going over the $100 mark, and preferably under $80 if any of these are decent.

Hakko Dial type temperature limiting soldering iron FX600 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006MQD7M4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pBXMAb3DXH857

Hakko FX601-02 Adjustable Temperature Controlled Soldering Iron, 67 Watts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPSX3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UDXMAbYNHEAWS

UY CHAN Upgraded Original TS100 Digital OLED Programmable Pocket-size Smart Mini Outdoor Portable Soldering Iron Station Kit Embedded Interface DC5525 Acceleration Sensors STM32 Chip Fast Heat (B2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDTO6X7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CEXMAb7A2CDNW

Just search for Soldering kits on Amazon, there are many. One feature you want is to be able to adjust the soldering iron's heat level. (Example: https://www.amazon.com/Sywon-Soldering-Adjustable-Temperature-Desoldering/dp/B01E1ISGH0/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1482397099&sr=1-6&keywords=Soldering+Kit)

YouTube has TONS of soldering videos. (Example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BxASFu19bLU).

You also might want to look into some of the more elaborate Raspberry Pi kits, they typically come with a bread board for circuit prototyping as well as a bunch of extra goodies like a Pi Camera module, Arduino boards, etc... (Example: https://www.amazon.com/SunFounder-Modules-Sensor-Raspberry-Extension/dp/B014PF05ZA/ref=sr_1_13?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1482396929&sr=1-13&keywords=Raspberry+Pi+3)

With such a kit, you'll be able to explore a ton of the Pi's functionality.

thanks! this work?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ESUKNXG

This took me 5 minutes to put together.

Commercial Version:
hobby creek version

Materials List:

• coolant hoses
  
  
• alligator clips
  
  
• A solid piece of wood
  
• some heatshrink
  
• some hotglue...
  
  

1. The threaded connector on the hoses is a 1/2"-20 thread. So grab a spade bit or 1/2" bit and drill as many holes as you want into your base.
   
   
2. Don't make the mistake I made and either use a dense hardwood for the weight, or offset the mounting holes further back so it doesn't tip forward.
   
   
3. Insert the coolant hoses and hot glue from the bottom then around the base and let that set
   
   
4. drill the tube openings to the diameter of the alligator clip arm (about 1/4") but make sure it's snug, smaller is better than bigger.
   
   
5. shoot some glue into the tube opening as well as the alligator clip
   
   
6. slide on a tiny piece of heatshrink onto the tube
   
   
7. push the alligator clip into the tube then heat the heatshrink around the connection (I used marine heatshrink which has a built in heat activated adhesive to help this connection)
   
   
8. grab some rubber dots or no slip feet and stick them on the bottom of your base board.
   
   The amazon link I linked to sells the hoses in packs of 6 so you can make one for yourself and a friend, or do what hobby creek did and fix 4 arms to the base (which in my opinion is a little overkill).
   
   It's not 100% rigid, but for a $9 build, it's "rigid enough".

i use one of these http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-2000-01-Precision-Butane-Soldering/dp/B00MJW08JK/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1451929586&sr=1-1&keywords=dremel+soldering+iron

bit more versatile than a heat gun and useful for field soldering if you're desperate :D (no replacement for a hakko or weller iron)

I was looking at these 3 on amazon


Xtronic
Yihua
Aoyue

I use a cheap Chinese one off amazon . This one Its 60 watt with adjustable temp and came with a kit. Does the job and was cheap. You will also need some no clean solder flux paste and some solder. I wasn't sure if the solder the kit came with was lead free or not ( lead free isn't as good) so I bought my own solder at a hardware store. It's not the greatest set up but it's done me good so far. I am not the most experienced modder on here though. I have only built 2 boxes so far but both turned out well. Just to warn you its hella addictive. I have parts to make like 5 or 6 more boxes already. The hardest part is just getting everything to fit inside the enclosure nice and neatlty. The enclosures look roomy until your trimming down your wiring to finish up soldering. I would say start with something easier so you don't fuck up am expensive board but my first box was an intelligent PWM board and was glad I started on something a bit more technical. I'm finishing up a dual battery squonk with only a mosfet and it's a piece of cake now.

As for your DNA 200. I would have to research myself. I am a YiHi fan. I have 2 SX Mini G Classes so I have never looked into the price of boards. I will look around. So far I found a 200 for $56 on dripp3d.com

This is the most popular budget option, and it's the one that I use personally. I definitely recommend it if you think you might end up doing 7 or so desoldering jobs all things told! The only complaint people seem to have is that the barrel gets clogged with solder sometimes, but this won't happen if you let it heat up sufficiently first. Then it's just a matter of cleaning it out routinely. Sure beats using a crappy plastic solder sucker!

Is there a big quality difference between that and something like this?

Soldering Iron Kit for Electronics, Yome 19-in-1 60w Adjustable Temperature Soldering Iron with ON/OFF Switch, Digital Multimeter, 5pcs Soldering Iron Tips, Desoldering Pump, Screwdriver, Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9RLBR1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_A2nSDb8JPDAZN

It includes pretty much everything I need and would save me a bit not having to buy everything separately.

This one, for anyone else looking at the post

Thanks!

DeOxit is popular among vintage home audio collectors, however I'd guess that a pot in a car audio amp is not quite vintage enough to have exposed wipers. I'd replace it, personally.

A desoldering pump/wick is highly recommended.

Hi there, here is a link to a pen on amazon with a few tips you can use.

it's a very burly blow dryer thing.

http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PC1500HG-1500-Watt-Heat-Gun/dp/B004Q04X44/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1383003118&sr=8-2&keywords=heat+gun

If you can't get it with a Q-tip, it's nothing to worry about. Grab yourself a soldering iron on Amazon, as well as some quality solder and flux. I will link some in an edit to this comment in a few minutes. Also, screw everyone else in this thread, that is damn near the perfect amount of thermal paste.

EDIT: Here are my recommendations and reasons!

​

SOLDERING IRONS:

Cheapo soldering iron:

​

https://www.amazon.com/GLE2016-Soldering-Adjustable-Temperature-Different/dp/B01N413T8U/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=soldering+iron&qid=1554943755&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

This one will do you some good for the quick fix, although I can't speak to the longevity of the iron or its ability to melt some of the higher temperature solders that factories use.

​

More expensive (but WAAAAAAY BETTER) iron:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=soldering+iron&qid=1554943755&s=gateway&sr=8-6

​

This is a great soldering iron if you think electronics is something you'd like to get into. Quality replaceable tips are available, and it has a stand and comes with a cleaning sponge. I've used these, and absolutely love them. Honestly though, if this is going to be one of very few times you solder, just go for the cheap one.

​

​

​

SOLDER:

​

The cheap iron comes with some solder, and honestly you can probably get away with that for this one repair. If you decide to get the more premium iron though, here is some good solder:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Mudder-Solder-Electrical-Soldering-0-22lbs/dp/B01B61TWGY/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=solder&qid=1554944194&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

OR (I've never used this particular solder but MG chemicals is a great brand)

​

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Leaded-Solder-Diameter/dp/B004258YDE/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=mg+chemicals+no+clean&qid=1554944408&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

​

I usually stick to smaller diameter solders because you have a lot more control over how much you're putting onto a joint. This stuff is good, but really you just need to make sure it's lead solder because it melts a lot easier and is easier for beginners to work with.

​

​

​

FLUX:

​

If you want your joints to form and form well, you need some flux. At least coming from me, this is mandatory. Here's some good no-clean flux that you can use that will mostly evaporate off and shouldn't be much fuss to clean.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Paste-10-milliliters-Pneumatic-Dispenser/dp/B00425FUW2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=mg+chemicals+no+clean&qid=1554944408&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

​

​

TUTORIAL:

Although kind of slow, here's a pretty good soldering guide. This relates more to soldering electrical components, but most of the lessons remain the same.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IpkkfK937mU

​

Best of luck!

Long before I started smoking cigars regularly I bought this butane torch to make vape mod coils and it has been my most reliable cigar lighter to date. Holds a ton of fuel to.

Blazer GB4001 Stingray Butane Torch, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HT8U9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jU2XCb331CP2J

Get one of these

Soldering Fan

Blow big fluffy clouds to their immediate death.


(Note, I haven't actually tried this, but I used one of these to solder in a hotel room--long story--and it worked like a champ).

They make small heat guns specifically for this. Just borrow/buy one of those. Otherwise good luck destroying everything while trying to desolder that connector.

http://www.amazon.com/X-TRONIC-MODEL-4040-Soldering-MAGNIFYING/dp/B003TC8EQS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374728744&sr=8-1&keywords=solder+heat+gun

like this but you can get a cheaper one.

I have this rework station and LOVE it for the price.

I'm a big fan of the Xytronic I picked up years ago. My model has been discontinued but they seem to have upgraded it to a digital unit.

http://www.amazon.com/X-TRONIC-MODEL-4010-XTS-Centigrade-ANTI-MAGNETIC/dp/B0053491YO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1427812259&sr=8-3&keywords=xytronic

Boom. Same here. Only bought it to solder 2 keyboards and it did it's job just fine.

Some tips I learned the hard way:

• Don't get a GoPro mount just yet. Chances are you probably won't even use it until you're a much better pilot, and it will just add unnecessary weight when you're not using it.
  
• Get an F3 based flight controller (SP Racing F3 or similar) instead of an F1 (Naze32). If you're anything like me, you're going to try to get the most out of your quad and use all of the fancy technologies available to you (like an on screen display, or using SBUS and telemetry with your receiver, or LEDs, or whatever). When you go to add stuff on, though, you have to work with hardware serial ports, or UARTs; the Naze32 has 2 UARTs while F3 FCs have 3 available. Having that extra UART available will make a lot of things a lot easier, and the increased processing power on the F3 should allow you to use more software serial ports than on the Naze (meaning you can use more stuff simultaneously).
  
• When assembling your quad, make sure you put your screws through the plates facing downwards with the nuts on the ground. It's a lot easier to use a socket wrench to tighten stuff than a hex wrench.
  
• If you're building a 250 quad first, use 220X motors instead of 180X motors. The 220X motors are bigger and produce more thrust than the 180X motors, which will improve your flying characteristics. Just make sure that the frame you choose can accommodate them; if you're starting out with a tried and true ZMR250, make sure you get the version with M3-sized arms.
  
• Make sure, among other things, you have the following equipment:
  
  
  • Soldering iron with a fine tip (these are replaceable, so if you already have an iron you can just get the tips). One with adjustable temperature helps a lot.
    
  • Solder
    
  • Soldering flux (I recommend a flux pen; you can get these from Amazon)
    
  • Desoldering wick
    
  • Solder tip cleaning wire
    
  • Soldering iron holder
    
  • Multimeter (useful for testing stuff). Make sure to also get a battery for it.
    
    
• If you're planning on using LEDs, get addressable LED strips (WS2812 or equivalent). Since my ZMR uses nonaddressable strips, I have switches on the strips, which tend to get damaged in rough landings.
  
• Get a spare motor in each direction and a spare ESC. You don't know when you'll break something, but when you do, you'll have a spare you can quickly switch out.
  
• Heatshrink looks better than electrical tape.
  
• Zip ties are your friend.

Same one as in EEV blog but different color scheme

Yea like these https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B010C504NK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467770529&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=hobby+creek&dpPl=1&dpID=41dhZX8rUjL&ref=plSrch

> Can you point me in the direction of a guide to fix it? Thanks for the response, also.

r/AskElectronics can help you find the problem and fix it. You will need a soldering iron and related accessories. This is what I got for myself to fix my mouse:

• AmazonSmile: FX60101 by Hakko
  
• AmazonSmile: T19D24
  
• AmazonSmile: Elenco Soldering Iron Holder
  
• AmazonSmile: MAIYUM 63-37 Tin Lead Rosin core solder wire for electrical soldering (0.6mm 100g)
  
• AmazonSmile: LA-CO 22101 Regular Soldering Flux Paste, 2 oz
  
• AmazonSmile: OMorc Desoldering Wick, Solder Sucker & Solder Braid (2.5mm Width, 1.5m Length) – Desoldering Vacuum Pump Solder Removal Tool
  
  You will save money in the long run by fixing your stuff. Use your rights or lose them. Right to repair was first lost when consumers started tolerating proprietary batteries. Then proprietary non-replaceable batteries (NRB's). Then disposable devices. Then pre-paid charging. Then pay per charge. It keeps getting worse. The only way to stop it is to go back to the beginning and eliminate the proprietary NRB's. Before you can regain the right to repair, you first need to regain the right to open your device and put in new batteries.
  
  There are 2 subreddits committed to ending the reign of proprietary NRB's:
  
  
• r/AAMasterRace
  
• r/18650masterrace
  
  Another notable subreddit with right to repair content:
  
  
• r/StallmanWasRight
  
  You can learn more about this issue here:
  
  
• Hackers, farmers, and doctors unite! Support for Right to Repair laws slowly grows : r/AAMasterRace, crossposts, more crossposts
  
• Saving Mankind from self-destruction: A "repair economy" might fix more than just stuff. It could fix us as well. : r/AAMasterRace, crossposts, more crossposts
  
  > research found repair was "helping people overcome the negative logic that accompanies the abandonment of things and people" [...] relationships between people and material things tend to be reciprocal.
  
  
• Reasons to repair : r/coolguides, crossposts
  
  A few other subreddits to help you or inspire you to fix your stuff:
  
  
• r/fixit
  
• r/easyfix
  
• r/ifixit
  
• r/kintsugi
  
• r/Visiblemending
  
• r/techsupportmacgyver
  
• r/hackedgadgets
  
• r/mobilerepair
  
• r/appliancerepair

Ah. I was thinking an actual pump pump, like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009Q5ZH58/.

I always called the hand held things "solder suckers".

This kit comes with a desoldering vacuum pump. Usually these pumps are not recommended except in emergencies, because you have to heat the solder up enough with the soldering iron tip instead of a desoldering iron which fits nicely around the work, but I did use that pump successfully to remove MX switches.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E1ISGH0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not too expensive, comes with solder and some other useful stuff. If you don't want to spend big bucks on a Hakko, you can start with this.

Shouldn't need to spend over $30 for a torch. This one has served me well for years: (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HT8U9M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

dis one http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HT8U9M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1