(Part 2) Best audio & video selector boxes according to redditors
We found 2,385 Reddit comments discussing the best audio & video selector boxes. We ranked the 458 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
![4 x 2 HDMI Matrix Switch [Ultra HD 4K x 2K], FosPower 4 in 2 Out Switcher/Splitter with Optical & L/R Audio Output - Support 3D 1080p | ARC - Includes IR Remote Control & Power Adapter](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/512ATQ4BJuL.jpg)
when i got the new GPU i replaced everything in the signal chain with amazon basics high speed HDMI/displayport cables and this 4k60 switch
the ONLY configuration that worked is what i am currently running.
There are so much better TVs than The Frame and we all would heavily advise you that you look elsewhere. Build a custom frame around the TV yourself to keep the frame aesthetic if you have to, that’s what we recommend. If you still want that Frame though then that’s your call.
Also, your goal is zero wires but you will have wires. That Samsung One Connect wire cannot be ran through the wall since it was not legally rated to be in a wall. So you’ll be having a visible wire from your connect box In your shelf to your TV whether you like it or not. Sorry.
Bookshelf speakers are gonna look amazing aesthetically. Unless you have a really big room room you don’t need towers at all since it will be overkill. Also you’re already aware that no one is going to take a music room with a soundbar setup seriously, so that’s good.
Also, as far as your amp goes, how about a Sonos Amp with an adaptor to connect to the HDMI? Like this? it has an optical port as well as an aux port. may not be two six ports but I’m still looking. Also with that amp you get the benefit that you would get with a Sonos system with your bookshelf speakers. Idk, don’t know much about 2.1 amps tbh.
Also, pics when you’re done. I would love to see that room in its final form.
Looks to be this one:
AUKEY HDMI Switch Bi-Directional 2x1 Supports 4K 3D HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 Out for Xbox One / PS4 /HDTV/Blu-Ray Player/DVD / DVR/Apple TV etc. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EHAAHOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aZL3BbW15AGTC
Looks like both Pi's are connected to this, and then to the single monitor. Pretty smart, in my opinion.
Xiaomi Mi Box is great value at only $69 USD, and it comes with optical (but not TOSLINK, so you'd need an adaptor), but good luck getting it outside of US... There are "international versions" from Chinese online resellers, but I just got the US version from eBay.com
There is also a thread on official forums that discusses all the possible hardware you can get:
http://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=252916
You should really start there
However, I wanted to point out that you don't need to be restricted in your requirement for optical. I was in the same situation, with older "sound system" without HDMI input and not wanting to spend $300 (...and that's without speakers) on an AVR overkill
Then I found this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HM1RP6G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
No need for an AVR, and you don't need the source device to have optical out.
No it was actually super simple, I cannibalized a volume knob off Amazon by removing the housing, and when the I realized the PCB inside was pretty small, I decided to drill a hole in the front panel that would fit the knob and used a DIY USB Micro -> USB 2.0 Header cable to connect it to the PC.
This is the knob:
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Lossless-Computer-Controller-Adjuster/dp/B01MV411BR/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1537240037&sr=8-5&keywords=volume+knob
First hit on Google: https://www.amazon.com/BG-520-splitter-switcher-XBOX360-Blu-ray/dp/B0089DSLMY
Guessing there are many more like it.
There's a lot out there now as far as switches. I personally use this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WP755QH/ref=ox_sc_act_image_5?smid=A28128AMZ00PEQ&psc=1#
But the most important thing is to make sure you have hdmi 2.0 cables that are no longer than 1.5 meters(although 1 meter is better). I had blackouts occasionally until I shortened my cables.
Zettaguard 4K x 2K 4 Port 4 x 1 HDMI Switch with PIP and IR Wireless Remote Control, HDMI Switcher Hub Port Switches (ZW410) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BV1XBIY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uzqDDbZ2YSW26
Try an HDMI Switch. You can plug all of your sources into it and use the remote to switch between PS4, Xbox, PC Zettaguard 4K x 2K 4 Port 4 x 1 HDMI Switch with PIP and IR Wireless Remote Control, HDMI Switcher Hub Port Switches (ZW410) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BV1XBIY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GMU9AbKTJTHCK
If you want to go the route of buying a playbar/base, you can just running all of your devices in to an hdmi switch and then one hdmi to the projector itself.
As others have helped me with my set up, you can buy hdmi switches that have an audio extractor built in to them. In this case, you don't even need to run the optical cable to the projector, rather, keep everything down below and just have the one hdmi (out) from the switch to your projector.
Here is what I use: Hdmi switch with extractor.
The correct answer is buy an AV receiver, but if you're not willing to do that you could try an HDMI audio splitter that outputs to RCA and 3.5mm.
It is better to use a HDMI Switcher like this. Switching between multiple devices may harm your HDMI cable. If you're not switching too often then it's alright to swap cable.
Does it need to be an actual wheel? Most keyboards have volume controls, but not necessarily a wheel. A wheel really limits your options. Corsair, Logitech, Das have some keyboards with a volume wheel, but I don’t think there are any TKL options. If you really want a wheel, you can get something like this then get a TKL RGB keyboard.
You are looking for a DisplayPort switch.
https://www.amazon.com/LINDY-Port-4K-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B00ZK2S71W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538519894&sr=8-3&keywords=displayport+switch
I actually had this set up for a couple months. Buy THIS it works exactly as you need it to. I had it connected to my PS4, then to a 1080p TV and a 4KTV. When it went to my 4KTV the PS4 automatically changed the settings to accommodate the higher resolution. (My TV shows the current resolution in the input display). There was literally no issues transferring between the two.
EDIT: I had my PS4 in the side with one port and the two TVs in the other side with 2 ports. It can go both ways.
Just get something like this for your monitor. Mine has only one HDMI input as well so I use a switch to connect multiple devices.
EDIT: I just chose a random switch to link. This one in particular only supports 4K @30Hz, so do some research if that's not good enough for your PC etc.
You need something like this https://www.amazon.com/Amplifier-Receiver-Speakers-Selector-Switcher/dp/B0796KGVXT
I would get a switch rather than relying on the monitor for it, because I think you'll pay more for a worse monitor just to have this fairly low demand feature.
heres one example http://www.amazon.com/EnjoyGadgets-Switcher-Selector-Support-Switching/dp/B003AQD5W6 Only 20 bucks, even supports a remote.
alternatively, a home theatre receiver could serve this function as well, but larger and more expensive.
What you are looking for here in my mind is something like a switch box that you can use to switch between multiple HDMI devices with only one input going to the TV? Those are pretty common. Look at this: https://www.amazon.com/EnjoyGadgets-Switcher-Selector-Support-Switching/dp/B003AQD5W6
What about buying an HDMI switch and plugging the ps4 and Mac into that..then using the HDMI to dvi cable as the single output?
I had a similar problem with an older HD TV that still works great....basically the TV does not have the capability of sending back to the streaming devices the signal they send to the TV to verify "HDCP compliance". What I did was purchase a splitter that strips out the HDCP signal from the streaming device....so Roku to splitter, cable from splitter to TV...solved the problem.
Here is model I got from amazon....read the reviews of how others purchase for this purpose. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089DSLMY/
Hope this helps.
https://www.amazon.com/Auto-sensing-V-Switch-5-2-out/dp/B00DSQMVKU
This is what I have. I got a pair of them on ebay a bit cheaper, you can hunt around. It works great, if all you need is s-video or composite.
One downside is adding yet another AC wart to your probably already crowded power strips.
Ironic bonus: Came with several dozen different labels for the buttons.
The LP120 and A2+ are all you will need to start spinning records.
You won't need an external preamp, because the LP120 has one built in. You won't need a receiver/amplifier because the A2+ have built in amplification. You won't need an equalizer, unless you want to adjust the audio frequency for some reason.
The only thing you may need is a passive switch box and/or a passive volume control. The passive switch box will allow you to hook more than one input source (turntable, mp3 player, etc) to your A2+ speakers. A passive volume control will allow you adjust the volume more easily than reaching behind the A2+ speakers each time you want to change the volume level.
The passive switch box (aka A/V switcher) is available at nearly any big-box or online retailer. The passive volume control can probably be found at multiple places as well. Links for reference:
http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-Auto-sensing-Switch-5--2-out/dp/B00DSQMVKU/
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-28750-Composite-Selector/dp/B0032ANC8M
http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-Composite-Selector-Switch/dp/B005LT1CXO
http://www.amazon.com/Axxess-AALC-Controller-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B003FPD3IS
http://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O
While any switch will do, I prefer this one. It auto senses the source when you turn on a console, and if you have any consoles on composite (like a Sega Genesis or NES) they'll still get output via the S-Video on the switcher.
Edit: Fixed mobile formatting.
There's lots of different routes to get to good audio. Depends on what you want.
The JBL LSR 305 suggestion will sound great, and you can probably add a sub to it later to get even more powerful and deeper bass. But it's somewhat limiting in that there's not much that can be upgraded.
If you'd like to roll your own, a popular and great sounding kit are the Overnight Sensations at parts-express. More info on reddit here.
And then pick up a compact amp like the SMSL SA60, (or the older SMSL SA50) and it's a great little system, and you get to do some modest woodwork (no sawing), but also some light soldering, too.
You can add Bluetooth connectivity to it by selecting an amp that takes BT, or by getting a little device like this Avantree (which I have, and like a lot). Be sure to get something that supports aptX (some Android phones and desktops) and/or AAC (for Apple products).
Lastly, you may wish to have multiple wired inputs. For that, with one of these mini amplifiers, you'd need an audio selector switch, such as this.
Do you have a setup where say your rear speakers are plugged in all the time, and then when you want to use a headset (say gaming or voice comms) you plug in the headset to the front panel jack?
Kind of guessing this may be the issue. If so, you may benefit from the solution I went for. Basically the headphone jack is getting worn out from many mates/demates. Every connector has a rated number of mates/demates before it starts to give. The ones used on the front panel are frequently not really good in this respect. So we'd like to come up with a setup where you don't have to keep fiddling with Windows audio output utilities, and don't have to keep plugging jacks in and out. (I know there are some very good audio control utilities, it was just nothing I wanted to deal with personally.)
I ended up going with this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NTJET10/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It's inexpensive and it does exactly what it was meant to, and cheaper than I could have made it myself. Basically it's a stereo switch between one common and 4 ports. Thus, I wire from the rear panel to the common on this little switch, and then port A is my desktop speakers and port B is the headset. My headphones came with a little extension cord for both mike and speakers so I use that to run from the rear panel, and then I use a short male-male stereo to adapt to the common in. That puts a mike jack right by the box so there no cable length issues.
Anyway, maybe this will be of some use. That product is one of those "so simple it's hard to find" products. I've made a stereo switch in the past but once you get the box and setup the jacks and mounting and everything -- honestly it was not a project I wanted to take on, so finding one for low cost was perfect.
Hope that helps.
If you are just using HDMI cables, then a HDMI switch will work for you. If you have other video cables, it gets a bit more complicated and expensive. You can Google "HDMI switch 4X2" to find results. I would suggest getting one with additional ports (such as 5X2) in case you add more consoles in the future. Example of one is here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017RW073I/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_23_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=EFFRHPV9QPGWPP6SET8S&dpPl=1&dpID=61FFuW2r6iL
Onboard graphics or a decent card, if card try the software dpi settings, worked for my Nvidia.
They make 4k hdmi switches I haven't had a chance to try one so I still switch hdmi cables back and forth on port one but they exist:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BV1XBIY/
I got one of these for my mom who only has 1 HDMI as well and it works for Chromecast. You do lose CEC as someone else mentioned though.
You could use an HDMI switch.
Example:
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Switch-Supports-Ultra-1080P/dp/B01EHAAHOW/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1488048109&sr=1-9&keywords=hdmi+switch
More examples. Make sure the switch supports the resolution you need (1080p, etc.):
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=hdmi+switch
Any HDMI switch that supports UHD and HDCP 2.2 should work. Like
https://www.amazon.com/SDS-Switch-Wireless-Remote-RS232/dp/B01FXALWYY
Edit: removed bad switch recommendation.
this is the one that I have, it works fairly well. There are plenty of threads on here about what the best switch to get is if you want to look into it more
I used an hdmi audio extractor to do what you're asking for a while. It worked great. You can even get an hdmi switch with audio extraction if you have more than one console.
Switch/consoles to the hdmi switch/extractor inputs, output to monitor, audio output to speakers.
You need an HDMI switch with an audio extractor. I've successfully used this switch before: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K7BZ1XC
I can output either as Optical, Emulate ARC return or Analog Audio.
Be that as it may, with the push to 4K older HDMI switching receivers are quite cheap on the used market. It might not be that much more just to get a used Denon that's about 3-4 years old.
>
> I would really, really like a volume knob.
Given how uncommon these are on OEM keyboards, have you considered using a separate device like this? https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MV411BR
Cable i'm using :
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-supports-FullHD-Ethernet-KabelDirekt/dp/B00SVE6YF2
Switch you need:
https://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Switch-pass-through-support-Bi-Directional/dp/B06WP755QH
Works perfect
I just got a Sony Bravia and set up my psvr version 1 last week with a PS4 Pro.
If you don’t want to keep unplugging HDMI cords you could get this:
Sewell IBIS 4K HDMI Switch Box, 2x1, White, 4K 60 Hz, HDCP pass-through (HDCP 2.2 support), 2x1 or 1x2 HDMI Bi-Directional Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP755QH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_zVg3Ab9HCQR82
These cables support 4K HDR as well:
4K HDMI Cable 6ft (2-Pack) - Atevon High Speed 18Gbps HDMI 2.0 Cable - HDCP 2.2 - 4K HDR, 3D, 2160P, 1080P, Ethernet - 28AWG Braided HDMI Cord - Audio Return for TV, Monitor, Blu-ray Player, Apple TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP129CT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_u1g3Ab1WD5A27
I got a splitter and it works pretty well. Pick up some short hdmi high speed cables as well.
Sewell IBIS 4K HDMI Switch Box, 2x1, White, 4K 60 Hz, HDCP pass-through (HDCP 2.2 support), 2x1 or 1x2 HDMI Bi-Directional Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP755QH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_j7vBzb82KYH1A
So hdmi 1 is hdr/4k, while hdmi 2 is for psvr. I'm still figuring out a good way to get the tv to recognize it half the time, since the toggle on the switch doesn't refresh the hdmi signal. Turning on the psvr seems to do the flip.
And no, other than toggling the button on the switch, there's no plugging and unplugging.
I've been using this one without any flicker or blank out issues so far.
And my point would be that those “deficiencies” don’t matter. Yes better hardware exists if you pay more, but do you really need those extra bells and whistles? My TV was $199 on Black Friday five years ago. It’s a 42” 1080p with vaguely acceptable built in speakers and two HDMI ports and a USB power port. At one point I experimented with using both ports, but quickly gave it up when I realized my Apple TV does everything I need. If it didn’t have two ports and I had two devices, like maybe a satellite box or a game console, I could make up for that with an $11 HDMI switch device.
Can't have both connected that the same time.
You need a physical speaker switch between your receiver and the speakers.
https://www.amazon.com/Amplifier-Receiver-Speakers-Selector-Switcher/dp/B0796KGVXT
So one set of speaker wires from the receiver for the rear channels go to amp 1, then the zone2 speaker output would got to amp 2, and then you'd manually switch when you want to use those speaker for zone2 usage.
After a billion hours of reading...I figured out my audio issue, and understand it.
An HDMI input carries sound back to a device, which gets read, converted, and pushed back out.
My particular TV pushes Dolby Digital Plus (DD+) over HDMI. Most device support Dolby Digital (DD) but but DD+, so it has to be converted to DD, or else it gets bumped to Stereo.
Some TVs convert and pass it through as either, but not mine.
A fire stick and Apple TV do the decoding and convert DD+ to DD for you, so everything works fine.
Chromecast, Sonos, and the old Shield (another device I've been looking at) can't convert the signal from DD+ to DD, so my audio gets scaled down to Stereo.
The new Shield that just came out yesterday CAN do the conversion.
So.... To fix my problem, I can by the new Shield.
Or
I can buy something like this....
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H94D77V/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_TW6TDb1QVHB6G
Setup: From TV to HDMI Out on this box > Chromecast would go to HDMI In on this box, SONOS would plug into the optical out on this box.
Buy this
I have it and have my PC, PS4 and Xbox 360 all hooked up to the same TV using it.
Amplifier - http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00QYAOYKW £20.99
HDMI Switch - http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0020426AG £6.99
Buy 2 Bookshelf or Floorstanding Speakers, and put the rest of your budget into saving for a decent receiver down the road. Then you can move the amp to your PC if you desire or sell it. This is a way better route then spending hundreds on a HTIB.
Not from the UK so don't know where to find speakers at a good price and Amazon didn't have much of a selection that I am familiar with.
40 really? i have this one for £12.99 (about $20).
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Duronic-HDS3-Switch-output-Switcher/dp/B0020426AG/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457186517&sr=1-2&keywords=hdmi+splitter
i don't get any lag.
edit: just realised that may not be what you are looking for as i was thinking of a switcher not splitter
I have one of these sat behind my TV works well enough it auto sets to my PC until I turn on my PS3 or Xbox 360 then switches to the appropriate input, also has a button on there for manual switching.
Something like this is what you're looking for -- a HDMI switch.
Here's one on Amazon that comes with a remote.
Are they both HDMI? Get an HDMI switch.
Except this one does the opposite, it broadcasts from one input to two televisions. I didn't really care about that because it wasn't why I was buying it for. I guess it's good for like sports bars with multiple tvs playing the same thing.
Edit: I think you would want one that is called a "switch" something like this. I don't know it this one is any good or will bypass HDCP, just the first result on google.
There you go: http://www.amazon.com/Certified-Switcher-Toslink-Digital-Coaxial/dp/B003L14WB8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1322747964&sr=8-1
(I was on my phone before)
edit: Like I said, it didn't last long. Also, I remember my PC video card didn't like it. All other devices seemed to work fine. It was even programmable through my Harmony Remote.
If you get an hdmi switch that splits optical you need not plug the playbar into the projector at all. I currently use one because my tv does not pass 5.1 (which is also a possibility with your projector). Plug all your sources into the switch, plug the optical out from the switch to the playbar, and the hdmi out from switch to the projector. You will just need a long hdmi cable.
I use this switch
Monoprice 105557 4x1 HDMI Switch with Toslink, Digital Coaxial and 3D Support https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14WB8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_31bBCbVYW16R6
I had the same issue with a black Friday special Samsung TV. Luckily I don't watch TV and use all external devices, Roku, BluRay and PS4. I used the monoprice receiver to output audio to my amplifier
Monoprice Blackbird 4x1 HDMI 1.4 Switch HDCP 1.4 with Toslink and Analog Audio Extractor 1080p@60Hz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14WB8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wCf3CbM1XSPFZ
The monoprice hdmi switcher + toslink (optical) is what I use to send sound to my surround system, as well as quickly switch between HDMI signals (computer, PS3, PS4). It works great except for one thing... the frequency used by the W1070's remote control is the SAME as that of the monoprice box. That means I can't control the projector without switching the signal on the HDMI box! So maybe your best bet is to find something similar, so that you don't frustrate yourself.
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105557-Toslink-Digital-Coaxial/dp/B003L14WB8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1420416934&sr=8-3&keywords=monoprice+switcher+hdmi
I use https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B003L14WB8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for that exact reason. It works like a charm and did not break the bank. On the plus side, if you use a Logitech Harmony remote, it will control the switch for you.
Yep looks exactly the same.
Edit here is the Amazon link for the monoprice one I posted. This one just actually claims Dolby TrueHD and DTS. Still need to find a tinting tape for those LEDs. Maybe sugru
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003L14WB8/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?pc_redir=T1
Yes you need a switch or a receiver to split the audio. I have a projector too and a Sonos Beam via optical. There are probably better ones but this is what I bought last year and it works great.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L14WB8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Does the hdmi switch have an optical out? If not, there are hdmi switches with an optical output that is what you need.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003L14WB8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1450880600&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX118_SY170_QL70&keywords=hdmi+switch+with+optical+out&dpPl=1&dpID=412FZLwQviL&ref=plSrch
It's an error related to your projector not supporting HDCP. The only option is return the device, or find a way to 'strip' the HDCP from the HDMI.
Here's a starting point for that http://www.tweaking4all.com/home-theatre/remove-hdcp-hdmi-signal/
Pretty sure this switch will do the trick and is cheap: https://www.amazon.com/BG-520-splitter-switcher-XBOX360-Blu-ray/dp/B0089DSLMY
This:
http://smile.amazon.com/AVerMedia-Definition-Commentate-Recorder-C285/dp/B00F890KXU?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01
Plus this:
http://smile.amazon.com/BG-520-splitter-switcher-XBOX360-Blu-ray/dp/B0089DSLMY?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Equals Awesome Capturing.
I have a Toshiba 500 GB External plugged into front USB and just one press of record button and it records. Press the record button again and it stops. The light blinks so you know your recording.
It's easy to use, easy to setup. The on screen menus are slow to load but I don't need them as I only press one button on the remote ever. It has a built in editor but it didn't work that well. I just record on hard drive. Then take hard drive to my PC and edit footage.
I love this thing. If you use the splitter I linked it removes HDCP and you can even record streaming apps like NF and PSV.
Yep, plenty of the reviews for this one mention the (unadvertised) HDCP stripping functionality of this one: http://www.amazon.com/BG-520-splitter-switcher-XBOX360-Blu-ray/dp/B0089DSLMY/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1420141549&sr=8-11&keywords=hdmi+2.0+splitter
I was shopping for an HDMI splitter for other reasons, so when I saw these notes, I though of your post.
HDMI cable from DirecTV box IN to this:
https://www.amazon.com/BG-520-splitter-switcher-XBOX360-Blu-ray/dp/B0089DSLMY
Two HDMI cables OUT from that, one to your TV, one to this:
https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Capture-PlayStation-Nintendo-gameplay/dp/B00MIQ40JQ/
Connect that to your computer and record.
That's the capture card I use and no it does not. I use this splitter and it works fine.
This sounds like it may be an HDCP issue. I use a Yamaha receiver to convert Component to HDMI and at first my Elgato HD60S didn't get any picture from the receiver. I found out that the receiver was adding HDCP protection to the HDMI signal which blocked the capture card. I had to get an HDMI splitter to strip out the HDCP.
This is what finally got to allow my Elgato to see the HDMI signal from my receiver.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089DSLMY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can bypass HDCP using an HDMI splitter - this is how I record my PSTV output to a capture card for streaming. The model of splitter I use is This one (amazon.ca link - I apologize, I am Canadian)
Yeah there are cheaper switches... You needed me to google that?
http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-Auto-sensing-Switch-5--2-out/dp/B00DSQMVKU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416786824&sr=8-1&keywords=audio+switch
Find one with a single composite port and grab a switch box. They're dirt cheap now, and most manual ones even work unpowered.
I use this guy: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DSQMVKU/ref=s9_simh_gw_p23_d0_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=19B33HS2JN0SW9M4CB5B&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1970559082&pf_rd_i=desktop
Requires to be plugged in (which is the only down side) but it auto-switches so I don't even need to push a button, just power on the console I want to play and BOOM
Yes both are av switches. The one with s-video is http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DSQMVKU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1420291068&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=51uveTmBlCL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40 and the one with just composite is http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DRGDBTG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1420291068&sr=8-3&dpPl=1&dpID=41lebNURx6L&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40
The S video switch has five inputs and two outputs, the composite switch has eight inputs and one output. The one with S video is autoswitching but requires power. If I had it to do again I would just buy two autoswitching S video boxes. They were cheaper and easier to use. Quality on both seems good.
I was trying to figure this out a couple months ago. I ending up ordering this splitter from Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DSQMVKU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So far its worked for me. Here is how I set mine up. http://i.imgur.com/CttkMeG.jpg
Only the SNES, N64, and 360 are plugged in to the splitter.
Alright. How many input are you looking for?
There's quite a few different ones of that variety out there, actually. Look up with "stereo switch" or something along those lines. For example, here's a 1-4 switch with RCAs, and here's one with 3.5mm sockets. No idea of the quality of these, though.
Or you could always build one yourself (or have someone put it together for you). Really easy and cheap little DIY project! I'm currently using in my setup a 1-3 switch I built myself for switching between desktop speakers and two headphone amps.
Are these computer-style speakers where you just plug the 3.5mm cable into the computer (or TV)?
Cheapest would probably be an audio selector switch but you'd probably need some adapters to get it connected properly; AND you'd only be able to listen to one at a time.
Something like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Stereo-Manual-Selector-Sharing-Switch/dp/B00NTJET10/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1464403851&sr=8-5&keywords=audio+selector
If you want to hear both at once, you're probably best buying a cheap mixer and feeding that into the speakers. You could try a simple Y-adapter into the speaker, but I think you'll get some weird stuff going on as the audio will be feeding back to both devices.
sounds like you want something on these lines.
http://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Manual-Selector-Sharing-Switch/dp/B00NTJET10/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463941099&sr=8-2&keywords=3.5mm+switch
1 input from source, and 4 options for output controlled by the button interface. it is not exactly aesthetically pleasing imo.
the one you were looking at seems to be a full out/in switch, aka switches between out/in 1-4, so yes you would need to unplug and plug things in, which if you are going to do that anyways it makes it rather pointless (it would be easier and cheaper just to buy a 3.5mm extension cable instead, since thats what it would essentially be for you at that point). that one serves a specific need, of someone with multiple sources and multiple outputs.
assuming you aren't trying to listen to more than one source simultaneously, what you want is a switch, not a mixer...something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NTJET10
something like this also works if your source outputs via RCA and you have a headphone amp:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056DQT1A/
btw, that adapter converts stereo to mono...
Easiest cheapest simplest option is a 3.5mm splitter.
If you want to get fancy, you could get a 3.5mm switch box/selector with as many inputs as you'd like. Example 1 example 2
A switch box designed for rca would work as well, you'd just need an adapter cable from rca to 3.5mm, they're super cheap on Monoprice.
A 3.5mm Switch will allow you to select the output between headphones and speakers.
2 PORT 3.5mm STEREO Manual Switch Box
Coms 4 Port Stereo Manual Selector Audio Sharing Switch Box
Nobsound Little Bear MC102
Audio Switching Board
3.5mm switches will be tough to find, as the ONLY place that's really used is in headphones or old computers. Use something like this
Something like this is also an option also using 3 3.5mm to RCA adapters, you just won't use the video portion.
I haven't used something like that, but this looks like what you are describing:
https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Manual-Selector-Sharing-Switch/dp/B00NTJET10
That'll need a switch, not a splitter. You can get both functions in one box https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Switcher-Selector-Extractor/dp/B00QJGAKCW
Depends on the inputs available on your devices and projector.
https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Switcher-Selector-Extractor/dp/B00QJGAKCW
Something like this could work that has optical output for sound to your old receiver, but it only has 3 HDMI inputs/1 out. As long as that's enough you should be ok.
Also it really depends on how old your receiver is. If it's ancient I would recommend upgrading. This is a good cheap solution though at $37.
TV, surround sound system, gaming from my couch rather than at a desk:
Plus some way to use a mouse. But yeah, I have this current setup (with a slightly cheaper 55” tv I’m considering upgrading to the 65” I linked) and gaming in a home theater setup is glorious. With absolutely no budget, I might pick a bigger, more expensive TV (like something truly absurd like 88 inches and just keep moving my couch back until I could handle how big the tv was) but I’m happy with my current tv size.
This should also work well for console gaming, I just don’t own any consoles so I can’t comment.
I am using this one (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJGAKCW) and it works perfectly. Comes with a remote and has almost perfect rating on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/LINDY-Port-4K-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B00ZK2S71W
and then use a hdmi to display port converter https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_sc_1_11?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&field-keywords=hdmi+to+displayport&sprefix=hdmi+to+dis%2Celectronics%2C212&crid=1BRRVC82BIL0R
You could get a switch. I'm not sure that this one would work, but something like this.
I’ve found this switch to work pretty well. It’s a dumb switch and just physically plugs the cables in. There isn’t any internal logic. But I haven’t tested it with a Pimax yet. I use it to switch between computers for my 4K monitor. But I’ve been able to overclock my display to 70hz so the switch doesn’t seem to care what is going through it.
amazon link
Splitter, no. Oculus doesn't use the same aspect ratio or even have the same resolution as your screens which prevents splitting.
The thing that MIGHT work is a displayport switch, essentially an a/b box.
MAYBE something like this would work
https://www.amazon.com/LINDY-Port-4K-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B00ZK2S71W/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=displayport+switch&qid=1571693838&sr=8-3
This one: LINDY 2 Port 4K DisplayPort Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZK2S71W/
There was a supply available with prime shipping. There’s also slightly cheaper versions on eBay. With good cables this has been rock solid. Keep them short if you can.
That one looks nice but maybe a little overboard? and pricey. I don't think you will need all those optical inputs.
I have this one and I am very happy:
http://www.amazon.com/FosPower-Matrix-Switch-Splitter-Optical/dp/B017RW073I/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1464237692&sr=8-5&keywords=Matrix+4+x+2+switch
The remote is total crap, but I don't mind because I have a Harmony Remote (IR codes are in the Logitech database, no need to program). I don't use the 2nd HDMI out. Maybe I'll add a small monitor next to my TV later, or a wireless HDMI transmitter to another TV in another part of the house.
4 x 2 HDMI Matrix Switch [Ultra HD 4K x 2K], FosPower 4 in 2 Out Switcher/Splitter with Optical & L/R Audio Output - Support 3D 1080p | ARC - Includes IR Remote Control & Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017RW073I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.03RBbAVNSX0D
Your optical solution will work, but loses the HDMI-CEC aspects of the solution. Meaning, if you control your soundbar with the TV remote right now then you will now have to use your soundbar remote to control the volume since optical won't send those commands to the soundbar. Also, your TV may or may not output 5.1 channel sound via the optical port.
This might be a good time to invest in a Harmony remote, if you don't have one already. Then you could get an HDMI splitter/hub (link below) with an IR sensor. Setup the Harmony to control the HDMI hub and it will change inputs from Roku to PS4 via the harmony automatically.
https://www.amazon.com/Zettaguard-Wireless-Switcher-Switches-ZW410/dp/B01BV1XBIY/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511967570&sr=1-3&keywords=4k+hdmi+hub
I use Zettaguard 4K x 2K 4 Port 4 x 1 HDMI Switch with PIP and IR Wireless Remote Control, HDMI Switcher Hub Port Switches (ZW410) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BV1XBIY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oMKOBb1DAY2YE sorry on mobile and don't know how to format the link.
edit: have to correct my original purchase, that switch was for a different setup. I actually ordered this
Has anyone used any of these HDMI switchers before?
I'm getting one for use with my Switch/Wii U/SNES Classic/NES Classic
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049SCB2Y
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BV1XBIY/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QQA6K84/
I couldn't help you with the monitor, but for the keyboard and mouse, you could use a USB switch.
Edit: Apparently HDMI switches are also a thing.
They're digital, just check that it (the switch) supports (I think) HDMI version 1.3 as a minimum. Just looking on Amazon, This one supports 1.4 and is HDCP compliant, so should be ok.
As an aside, I always prefer the ones with a physical switch. The digital ones tend to auto-sense the connection and that can cause problems. Some people are fine with it, my experience is they're hassle.
Also, if you are plugging your PS4 into your PC monitor via HDMI and already use HDMI on the monitor from your PC, let me suggest something small and not very expensive that will make your life a lot easier: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EHAAHOW/
I stream on twitch and when I use my consoles, I swap one of my two monitors to the console with this switch box. It means I don't have to swap the cables all the time and it's done with the push of a button. It'll make life way easier for you.
No problem it's an AUKEY HDMI Switch Bidirectional 2 Input to 1 Output ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01EHAAHOW ) it's served me well there might be better or cheaper ones out there though since I bought this
Here are some thoughts.
i use this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FXALWYY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use this one for HDMI (3 port version which is out of stock)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FXALWYY/ref=mp_s_a_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1526234681&sr=8-25&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=esds%2Bhdmi&th=1&psc=1
Maybe something like this
I know one person using this right now and it works for them.
By "TV based," I assume you want to listen to HDMI sources rather than USB. There are a couple of cheap/simple solutions to this, but a receiver w/pre-outs would benefit your existing setup in several ways.
First, the cheap solutions:
Now, a receiver with pre-outs would optimally integrate your Paradigms and sub. You'll have one, master volume control for all speakers (b/c each Paradigm speaker and the sub all have individual volume knobs. Right now you're prob adjusting volume on your computer or DAC/HP amp). You'll also gain centralized crossover control, time-delay adjustments, level-matching between sources, more inputs and the possibility to integrate your existing computer audio setup alongside. Unfortunately, as you've found, pre-outs aren't generally found on receivers below $300. Good luck.
I have a similar setup and, as a first-time buyer, it took me quite a while to make sense of how everything was supposed to connect together. I didn't get much help from the posts I made at the time, but here's my setup:
Your thoughts on Question 2 are correct as far as hookups, but the key (at least with the Magnifi Mini setup) is that you use the Optical Output from the splitter to the soundbar.
So, for you, PS4/Apple TV/DirecTV --> Splitter --> HDMI Out to Projector, Optical Out to Soundbar.
Also, I have a really bright room and a beige spackled wall. Not sure what your room situation is like, but I don't use a screen and it looks great, so if you're looking to save a few bucks, you might try the setup without the screen first and see if you can get by.
Romer G is a switch Logitech makes. I would try to stick with Cherry MX Linear switches and stay away from clicky switches because they get annoying after long term use. Tactile are an exception sometimes Using Halo Trues on my GMMK TKL right now 😊
If you want an RGB keyboard look at a GMMK by Glorious or a Ducky. If you don't need RGB then look at Leopold keyboards. Logitech are good at making mice but they are rather lack luster in quality when it comes to their Romer G keyboards. You could possibly consider their Cherry boards but I have no experience with them and I would personally pick a Leopold over most if all gaming brands now. I've owned and used a Corsair board(Corsair K70 - Cherry MX Red), Cooler Master board(CM Storm Quick Fire TKL - Cherry MX Brown) and Logitechs Romer G board (G810 Orion - Romer G). The G810 Orion was by far the worse mech board I daily used.. also the left CTRL key cap broke on me. The little peg legs that the key cap used to seat into the switch snapped causing me not be able to replace it. AKA perma damaged I forgot to mention than Romer G switches pop off all the f time which is another reason why I hate them so much.
Basically I'm telling you to avoid Romer G switches at all costs. 😅
If you need a media wheel then just get this - https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Lossless-Computer-Controller-Adjuster/dp/B01MV411BR/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=volume+wheel&qid=1550676625&s=gateway&sr=8-3
If you decide to get a Leopold and you need media keys for play, back, pause etc DM me and I can help you setup a script with Autohotkey. (I can't remember the script off the top of my head and I'm not home right now to look at it) I can provide the media control script later*
If you're ok with settling for an alternative these are two potentiometers I've been considering. An unbalanced CF is hard to find.
USB - www.amazon.com/dp/B01MV411BR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_l5urzbAKPJNGD
USB #2 - www.amazon.com/dp/B071H5XQ1F/ref=cm_sw_r_cpawdb.bvrzb2PZKAQP
3.5 in/out - www.amazon.com/dp/B00XDKKQ9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_c8urzbT4JJPR6
Gde imam da kupim ovako nesto kod nas, ne znam sta da trazim, ne izlazi nista na guglu, itsvetu, kp itd.
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Lossless-Computer-Controller-Adjuster/dp/B01MV411BR
I once had a keyboard with a really nice volume scroll, then they discontinued it when I went to replace it.
I got frustred with my limited options when I had the constraint of trying to find a keyboard with good volume buttons.
So I got myself a USB volume knob. The first one I got was all plastic, but it filled the void left by my keyboard, and opened up my options.
Then later this volume knob came out, a lot more metal, much heftier. I absolutely love it, more than any volume control I've had on a keyboard.
Also, that blue light only comes on while you change the volume, which I prefer.
It just feels so nice, and being able to put your volume control anywhere is super nice.
If you want to mount the knob to the bottom of your desk (which I've seen some people do) I'd suggest a plastic one.
Also worth mentioning, some people get DAC/AMPs to upgrade their audio, and some of those have volume knobs as well.
(Just trying to offer more solutions to your volume control that doesn't limit your keyboard options, that you may even enjoy more, which I do now.)
Some on r/PSVR prefer this HDMI switch box ~ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP755QH
Also, 1 of the top reviews is from a PlayStation VR user.
Sewell IBIS 4K HDMI Switch Box, 2x1, White, 4K 60 Hz, HDCP pass-through (HDCP 2.2 support), 2x1 or 1x2 HDMI Bi-Directional Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP755QH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_jvPyfyKhmK632
With these as the cables...
HDMI Cable 1.5 FT (2 Pack) - HDMI 2.0 (4K @ 60Hz) Ready - 30AWG Braided Cord - High Speed 18Gbps - Gold Plated - Ethernet / Audio Return - Video 2160p https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CRA9GU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_F3fJbh5K1QSjk
Sewell IBIS 4K HDMI Switch Box, 2x1, White, 4K 60 Hz, HDCP pass-through (HDCP 2.2 support), 2x1 or 1x2 HDMI Bi-Directional Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP755QH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_sYDSzbMWEHDDC
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WP755QH/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522537226&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ibis+hdmi+switch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D5H93FW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522537256&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hdmi&dpPl=1&dpID=41mJoLIiC7L&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1
>That one isn't very good. Get this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WP755QH/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506803527&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=sewell+hdmi+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=516oaVfdSbL&ref=plSrch
You press a button and it will switch to the other hdmi. Have one going to tv and one to monitor. So when your wife wants to watch tv, click the button and bam it goes to the monitor.
Deleted my rambling comments to make /u/derlex9 post more visible
This is the one I bought but there are a lot of other ones on amazon that have lots of positive reviews. I got this one only cause it had the remote as well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0739GSKV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZSn0AbCXEZY4G
It does not. I use an external switch like this and I want to remove it. I get compatability issues with chromecast and the wiiu, and I can't connect a ps2 on it without juggling connections
HDMI Switch 4k,GANA Intelligent 3-Port HDMI Switcher,Splitter, Supports 4K, Full HD1080p, 3D with IR Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0739GSKV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_A5xOBbKPV004D
Would likely work.
https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Intelligent-Switcher-splitter-Supports/dp/B0739GSKV2
Nothing special, but does the job perfectly fine. It's fairly small and the remote is just added convenience.
Beware : I've bought 3 HDMI switches in as many weeks. All lasted 1-4 days before I had to return them. Only good thing from this experience is that even though I was refunded via Amazon Prime, one Chinese vendor is still sending me a free one. Although I suspect it will last as long as the others lol.
The one linked below has the accommodating vendor.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0739GSKV2/
Something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Amplifier-Receiver-Speakers-Selector-Switcher/dp/B0796KGVXT/ref=sr_1_41?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1538313300&sr=1-41&keywords=speaker+selector+switches
Do you have pre-outs for the main channels themselves, rather than Zone 2?
If so, use those and just run the stereo amplifier even for the HT use. I do this in my own setup, but the stereo receiver runs my subwoofers rather than my mains.
You can use the Zone 2 pre-outs, but you can't have two amps connected to the speakers directly. You would need a switch, something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Amplifier-Receiver-Speakers-Selector-Switcher/dp/B0796KGVXT
I've never done this, but there are switchers to change between sources for a pair of stereo speakers. Presumably it would work for a single speaker. I'd definitely use a solution like that instead of trying to splice or split cables myself.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0796KGVXT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6Do3Db70JN83Z
An audio switch of some sort would work.
https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Audio-Switcher-Selector-Splitter/dp/B07CKK7J2L
Is one example, but I have no experience with this one. You're just pressing a button to switch inputs.
On the slightly fancier end you could get a small mixer. That's pretty much overkill for two inputs though.
It would do what you want, but it's a mixer. So, it's made for mixing different signals together as well as selecting the different sources as you want. Think mixing guitar with vocals or blending 2 turntables, etc. What your are describing the need for is a simple audio source switch or selector. So, I wouldn't personally be looking to go the mixer route unless you wanted to use it more for it's intended purpose because it's just adding lots of unnecessary variables into the "mix". I would be looking for something more simple like this: Nobsound Little Bear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CKK7J2L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LhQ4DbT02JJKR
I don't have any experience with audio source selector like that personally, but that's an example of a simple A/B selector. Add more sources or Bluetooth if you wish to, but for your current needs something like that should do it.
Used this one for a few months now to connect my 360 and PS4.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Duronic-HDS3-Switch-output-Switcher/dp/B0020426AG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1462446523&sr=8-5&keywords=hdmi+switch+amazon
It auto switches and has buttons on it to manually switch. When I first got it, it did not auto switch a couple of times, but it has ever since.
Hi there, I own a very similar product.
I actually own one of these : http://www.amazon.co.uk/Duronic-HDS3-Switch-output-Switcher/dp/B0020426AG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1457208748&sr=8-5&keywords=multi+hdmi
They are extremely useful and there are no adverse effects on gaming. I use it to switch between my Raspberry Pi, Sky TV Box and Laptop! I have an old laptop that I stream games to that is always connected up to my TV. Whenever I need to switch between TV and gaming it just takes a single click of the button.
Like this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Duronic-HDS3-Switch-output-Switcher/dp/B0020426AG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374138249&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+switch
I don't know how well it will work, but you might find one cheap enough to just give it a try.
I use one of these, auto switches and quality is great
Unfortunately this is just a single PC setup, I'm getting the Capture Card more for occasional PS4 streaming but I had intended to use it with my PC.
My PC is, as you said "beefy" so would you suggest otherwise?
As far as a HDMi splitter is concerned, would this do the trick? I'm not sure exactly how many outputs I'd be needing. Really I'd like to be able to view, possibly even play on (if the delay is short) PS4 capture in an OBS window within Windows.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Electronics-Photo/Duronic-HDS3-Switch-PIANO-BLACK-output-Switcher/B0020426AG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483750183&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+split
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0020426AG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
Simple and effective. had two of them for a couple of years now
Just turn the HDMI switch around and plug the output into the pc and the input into the 2 monitors. When you hit the button to switch inputs it will switch monitors.
It should also automatically detect the new monitor and change resolutions automatically since it will now be a direct connection to the new monitor.
https://www.amazon.com/EnjoyGadgets-Switcher-Selector-Support-Switching/dp/B003AQD5W6\
Even comes with a remote.
http://i.imgur.com/aDdEDkY.png
I know the feeling... I'm currently at full capacity and I'll need to buy something like this when I finally decide to splurge on a PS4
And a WiiU and xbone in 10 years...
Something like this
Don't show them as duplicated because they will both display at the same time. If you want something cool and remotely controlled check out the below link. If you want something free then just right click the desktop go to graphics settings or display settings and only enable one at a time. But this switch is cheap for how cool it is.
https://www.amazon.com/EnjoyGadgets-Switcher-Selector-Support-Switching/dp/B003AQD5W6
Thanks! I ended up going with this one. http://www.amazon.ca/EnjoyGadgets-Switcher-Selector-Control-Switching/dp/B003AQD5W6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347161136&sr=8-1
I don't think it does. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Switcher-Toslink-Digital-Coaxial/dp/B003L14WB8/ref=cm_wl_huc_item) Monoprice device has DAC i think.
It might be cheaper to get an AV selection switch that lets you plug in multiple hdmi sources with one video output an maybe a couple different audio outputs. Then get a Yamaha with audio and phono inputs. Get one of those for $100-$150. Or an SMSL type desktop amp with Analog and Phono in.
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Audio-R-S202BL-Stereo-Receiver
​
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Blackbird-Switch-Toslink-Extractor
AFAIK you'd need a converter like this one. Or if you don't want to mess around converting video signals, an HDMI switch would also work.
HDMI splitters that happen to be HDCP strippers. Stuff like:
https://www.amazon.com/BG-520-splitter-switcher-XBOX360-Blu-ray/dp/B0089DSLMY
But you need to carefully read the reviews, as models change over time, and some of items are less reliable than others.
This seems close to what you're talking about. Check to see if I'm right.
https://www.amazon.ca/CVID-Appliances-BG-520-Splitter-Switcher/dp/B0089DSLMY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
https://www.amazon.com/BG-520-splitter-switcher-XBOX360-Blu-ray/dp/B0089DSLMY This splitter will remove the HDCP encryption. Im currently using one with my Fire TV.
1080p60:
Expensive but works great: Magewell (I've used/owned both of these)https://www.amazon.com/Magewell-HDMI-Video-Capture-Dongle/dp/B00I16VQOY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538331502&sr=8-3&keywords=magewell+usb+3.0+hdmi+video+capture+dongle
https://www.amazon.com/Magewell-USB-Capture-HDMI-Plus/dp/B01N16ZM2M/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1538331502&sr=8-4&keywords=magewell+usb+3.0+hdmi+video+capture+dongle
Cheaper but works great: iMillet (archtoasty uses this)https://www.amazon.com/Imillet-Capture-USB3-0-Drive-Free-Windows/dp/B07BSC3P7L/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538331556&sr=8-1&keywords=imillet%2Busb%2B3.0&th=1
Note: with the first magewell and the imillet you'll also want an hdmi splitter:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089DSLMY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
I don't know of any decent 4k60 PCIe cards for linux. Magewell maybe but I've not been able to get my hands on one. With linux as far as PCIe goes I wouldn't trust anything except magewell. Plenty of USB devices around that work for 1080p though.
https://www.amazon.com/BG-520-splitter-switcher-XBOX360-Blu-ray/dp/B0089DSLMY
I haven't tried it myself, but I've been told if you buy something like this, you can use it on the PSTV.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089DSLMY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This will fix it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089DSLMY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Use it all the time when I run into HDCP issues
I ordered this one the other day, tried it today was able to record video to my capture card
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089DSLMY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just got the 500 on refurb and needed this to use the HDMI output of my cable box, so I pick up this lil splitter. Working like a champ! I have one output to the TV in my guest room, and the other to the Slingbox, which is hooked up via looong HDMI to a TV in the next room (office). The LEDs on it are really bright, I may tape over or remove them completely.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089DSLMY/
I think you need an HDMI splitter like this one.
I use this one. I'm lazy and take full advantage of it's Auto-Sensing capabilities.
http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-Auto-sensing-Switch-5--2-out/dp/B00DSQMVKU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1408382747&sr=8-4&keywords=s-video+switch (how did you guys get your links so clean?)
You need a a/v switch. This might work, I haven't used it so I can't say for sure.
http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-Auto-sensing-Switch-5-2-out/dp/B00DSQMVKU
Not sure what the bot did, here's another link just in case: https://www.amazon.com/Auto-sensing-V-Switch-5-2-out/dp/B00DSQMVKU
The standard elgato may not be a great choice for twitch, since there is a ~2 second delay that can be a bit of an annoyance.
You basically need:
A capture card
GV-USB2 is pretty great quality for SD, but installing the drivers is entirely in japanese. They're pretty easy to figure out by just hitting random buttons and guessing, but people have made guides for "hit these buttons in this order". Once you set it up, it'll work perfectly from then on. The Dazzle DVC 100 used to be a pretty common choice, but I think the GV-USB2 is honestly better (I have a Dazzle, and even I'll admit the GV-USB2 is better).
As far as a splitter/switch, unpowered splitter cables would be fine, such as these plugged into the side of your NES, just make sure you get RCA cables that match up to go to your TV and to your capture card. If you want to get the best picture quality, a powered splitter/switch like this one will give a slightly better picture and will give you room to hook up more consoles as well (since it is a switch as well).
As for software, the standard entry-level streaming software is OBS, and for free software, it honestly is pretty great. If you want to spend money, there's some other good stuff out there, but OBS does everything you'd probably want to do. If you want something a bit better for a timer than your iPhone, try LiveSplit. You can setup splits to keep track of your pace (though considering how short the WR is, just a basic timer is probably fine, this will just allow you to let people watching on youtube or twitch see your timer too).
If you need any help otherwise, let me know.
Over 90db is efficient enough. That is why the Lepai worked with them. The Q5 issues are a bit of a downer but my set is good so I have to wait and see if I also get plagued with issues. The SA50 is still a solid choice for powering what you have but with only one input you would have to add an RCA switch like this to accommodate.
Auto-sensing AV switch is what I use:
http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-Auto-sensing-Switch-5-2-out/dp/B00DSQMVKU
Very convenient, jumps over to whatever console gets powered on. But really any AV switch will do.
Just use something like this then:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DSQMVKU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1409890048&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40
You may need a couple extra adapters/couplers to get all of your audio cables to match up between the RCA jacks and headphone jacks of everything involved, but that'll be the easiest way to switch, and it's auto sensing. Also, for the playstation you'll need to use the AV cable with the yellow/red/white plugs on it to get audio because you'll have no way of getting it out of the HDMI unless that monitor has an audio out
UPDATE:
I got off early from work yesterday and took some time to troubleshoot my TV. I discovered the issue was my AV switch. It is this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DSQMVKU/
Until this point I thought this was a great switch but I think its auto-sensing hardware was causing the malfunction. It could also have something to do with the up-conversion from composite to S-Video. You can turn it to manual switching mode but it doesn't clear up the problem. I dug out an old mechanical AV switch and all my video flickering went away.
This and an inline volume knob maybe? I can't find anything better really.
I don’t have it but I see this one on Amazon which looks fine: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NTJET10/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AAOHAbXFB8ZMP
There are a ton available, just look up “3.5mm audio switcher” on Amazon and you’ll find a bunch.
From my looking in the past 3.5mm switchers are not that common. Here is a 2 channel switch. https://www.amazon.com/Sescom-SES-IPOD-AB-Stereo-MP3-Player/dp/B005TE7GP4#Ask
Multiple
https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Manual-Selector-Sharing-Switch/dp/B00NTJET10/ref=sr_1_7?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1469549911&sr=1-7&keywords=audio+switch
You could also DIY one if your so inclined. It's really simple circuitry. It's just 1 signal coming in and being sent to different outputs depending on the position of the switch.
https://vsshs.com/2012/10/20/audio-switcher/
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Construct-a-35mm-Switch-diy/
You could try to use an acutal switch like this one with four ports (The two-port version is actually only 0,12 $ cheaper).
Get something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Manual-Selector-Sharing-Switch/dp/B00NTJET10
Plug your speaker into the in/out port, then everything else into the 4 selector stereo in/out ports, then use the selector buttons to switch. You'll need some male to male 3.5mm cables as well.
I haven't gotten one myself yet, but this was recommended to me - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJGAKCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_aVkIybTWJ16DH
Well, it would appear that the Sony headphone's base station has two audio inputs -- not an audio input and output, unless I got the model number wrong or I'm not seeing some hidden output. That it's working at all like you expected is kind of a failure on Sony's part.
You want an HDMI switcher that also does audio extraction: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Switcher-Selector-Extractor/dp/B00QJGAKCW
I'd also like to point out that unless you got a great deal on that Samsung monitor, you're now spending more on gear to make this setup work than you would have if you had bought an actual TV, and you're going to have a worse experience. Most TVs allow you to use the volume on the remote control to adjust the analog output for instance. It's not like you are forced to watch network TV if you buy a TV.
J-Tech Digital ® HDMI 1.4 Switch Switcher Box Selector 3 In 1 Out HDMI Audio Extractor Splitter with Optical SPDIF & RCA L/R Audio Out & Remote Control Supports ARC, MHL, Ultra HD, Full 3D, 4kx2k, 1080P (Support Apple TV 4Gen) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJGAKCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lrxKxbCAE3YMJ
How about something like this on the projector-out side of the switch? Never tried them myself, but it was my first thought.
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Converter-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072
Someone might also make a switch that does it? Er...yep, looks like they do! This one gives you a choice of RCA or optical out.
https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Switcher-Selector-Extractor/dp/B00QJGAKCW
Again: no personal experience, both are just "first hit" examples.
I wonder how they'd work with content protection....siiiiiiiigh, HOLLYWOOD FUCK YOU
https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Switcher-Selector-Extractor/dp/B00QJGAKCW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1536104904&sr=8-5&keywords=hdmi+switch+w+toslink&dpID=31MBsVkubjL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
I think this may be what you need. http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Switcher-Selector-Extractor/dp/B00QJGAKCW/
thank you :). I ended up buying https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJGAKCW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 since I just wanted this all done :). It seems to work with netflix.
This is the switch JTech Digital HDMI 3 in 1 I have on my Sonos 5.1 setup with my 65" Samsung JS8500; it works to perfection. It does ARC perfectly when I run Netflix out of the applications SmartHub.
Also, I have a NVDIA Shield and a Blue-ray player connected as well and it process sound flawlessly.
They do have a 5 in 1 variant if you need more HDMI ports.
Manufacturer Link
I use an hdmi switch ( https://amzn.com/B00QJGAKCW ) but it's not automatic, it comes with a basic remote, so I can't say that I've noticed this.
I'm guessing the CEC on/off setting in the Settings > HDMI screen isn't what you need?
Maybe that's what you're looking for?
Someone in the review section is using it successfully with his 348Q @ 100hz but another one isn't, apparently. But maybe it's worth a shot? Seems rather inexpensive to me considering the alternatives..
Good luck :)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/LINDY-Port-Manual-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B00ZK2S71W
Or would something like this work if I keep the 8800GT in there?
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY
Or a KVM Switch like this?
https://www.amazon.com/LINDY-Port-4K-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B00ZK2S71W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481773724&sr=8-1&keywords=displayport+switch
First of all, no splitter will allow you to use the two displays independently, it will always duplicate displays.
The best value switch I can find is this one for HDMI
https://www.amazon.ca/Fosmon-Bi-Directional-Switcher-Passthrough-Nintendo/dp/B00LFX1UDM/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=display+port+switch&qid=1562088158&s=gateway&sr=8-4
​
Or this one (more expensive) for DP
https://www.amazon.ca/Lindy-Port-4K-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B00ZK2S71W/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=display+port+switch&qid=1562088158&s=gateway&sr=8-6
​
For both of these you would need two adapters.
​
If you already have the USB splitter, maybe try USB to display port, but those are very expensive 60+ each
That is workable. Here is what you need
https://www.amazon.com/LINDY-Port-4K-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B00ZK2S71W
Your first wire (dedicated one), goes from your gfx card to display port switcher and then on to your central monitor.
Your second wire (daisy chaining) goes to all 3 (or just two of them, depending on what you want) of your monitors (as it does normally) .. except for your central monitor .. where it would connect to it .. via the switcher
This setup (so far) should allow you to game at the central monitor at 144hz and connect your laptop to all three of them..
Using a display port 1.4 cable at each place, should ensure everything goes smoothly, since these cables are suppose to be backward compatible. And also provide lower latency.
the Lindy DP Switcher here
Actually, I found what I was originally looking for! This switch will make two input sources (Vega and Titan via DP 1.2 in my case) and output it to one output signal (to monitor). All controlled via a tap of a button on the switch. They are called, 2x1 splitters if anyone is curious. Here's the one I bought:
LINDY 2 Port 4K DisplayPort Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZK2S71W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bm5SBbX6D4RC2
Also, monoprice makes ones but I read some reviews that it isn't as great but it's cheaper. Here's the link:
Monoprice 2x1 DisplayPort Switch, 4K@60Hz, 21.6Gbps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074KT689K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hC5SBbJ4RDQV1
Did you find a solution? I'm in a similar situation, without the spare graphics card. 4k@60hz on one DP, 2160@144hz on the second. Have to crawl under my desk to plug in the Rift.
Your best bet would probably be the 960 for your secondary monitor.
I was looking at a displayport switcher but I'm not sure it would work, with the Rift. This is what I found: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00ZK2S71W
Not sure how much, if any, lag this might introduce, but have you thought of a display port switch?
https://www.amazon.com/LINDY-Port-4K-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B00ZK2S71W/ref=sr_1_2?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1492470189&sr=1-2&keywords=display+port+switch
Cheers.
Literally just searched "DisplayPort Switch" on Amazon...
https://www.amazon.com/LINDY-Port-4K-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B00ZK2S71W/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=displayport+switch&qid=1572907375&sr=8-4
I have a similar issue. I found this on Amazon, but only 2 reviews.
https://www.amazon.com/LINDY-Port-4K-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B00ZK2S71W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481773724&sr=8-1&keywords=displayport+switch
This and a active-hdmi/ds
Suggestion: If you want to bypass the need for a switcher, you could use a mini-DP cable for the Vive, and continue using an HDMI cable for the Rift - that'll lessen the possibility for annoying HDCP checks, anyway.
If that's not good, I have to switcher suggestions, which I use in my console capture setup:
Solid, with an audio stripper: LINK
Just as reliable, better price point: LINK
Both support and include IR remotes.
That makes sense.
>We are currently looking at using a HDMI splitter, USB HDMI capture card, and a surface book as the receiver(second display)
Using this as your splitter you should be g2g assuming the usb capture card works well on the surface book.
if you want a few more ports than you need i found one that takes DC power
https://www.amazon.com/Matrix-FosPower-Switcher-Splitter-Optical/dp/B017RW073I
There are a lot of different options, you can use a KVM Switch with dual HDMI support, though keep in mind there are some issues with some gaming accessories since the KVM wants to treat your mouse/keyboard as a generic USB device and it might get thrown off if you plug in something with RGB. I think there are some KVMs with USB passthrough that you'd need to research.
You can also get a 4x2 HDMI matrix and use that to switch your computer/speakers.
This is the product by the way
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017RW073I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017RW073I/
It's actually a 4x2 switch because I have two TVs and want to switch content from any of my sources to either of them. It's not exceedingly expensive and it supports 4K and has an optical output. When using both outputs, I think the optical only works for output going to the "A" port. I use the optical out for a soundbar I have (not a Playbar) so I know it works.
https://www.amazon.com/Zettaguard-Wireless-Switcher-Switches-ZW410/dp/B01BV1XBIY/
Yeah, you'd want something like this HDMI switcher. There's a 3 way switch there too. There are plenty of companies selling them. This is just one of them, so see where you can find the best reviews. This is just the first came across. You'll be able to plug everything in at once and press the button on the switch or on the remote to cycle between them. Keep in mind that there's a good chance your monitor doesn't have speakers, this would complicate things a bit for your consoles.
A friend had me set up 4 $30 11in chineese tablets from amazon in a frame and put one cam on each tablet, worked great
(Crappy tablets but ran the nest app fine)
You could set up multiple Raspberry Pi, bring a cam feed up on each pi, and connect their video output through a multiplexer and connect that to your TV
Orei Quad Multi-Viewer 4x1 HDMI Switcher 4 Ports Seamless Switch and IR Remote Support 1080P for PS4/PC/Stb/DVD/Security Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H5TF6X2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rmYWDbEZCFB3E
Zettaguard 4K x 2K 4 Port 4 x 1 HDMI Switch with PIP (Picture in Picture)and IR Wireless Remote Control, HDMI Switcher Hub Port Switches for PS4 Xbox Apple TV Fire Stick Blu-Ray Player (ZW410) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BV1XBIY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4mYWDbWYRC2DZ
Thats actually what i do haha! I have my Wii U, PC, and ps4 (also my n64 hooked up with a up scaler but I took that off a bit ago)
There are items called HDMI switchers, this is the one i have
and then I have an audio wire (the green wire from pc speakers) plugged into my audio output from my monitor,
I'll ninja edit a picture of my settup
Edit:settup
since the HDMI cable sends audio signals through my monitor, the speaker wire will take it in through the audio out port on the back of my monitor.
You can get switches that can handle 4K at 60Hz (making them future-proof in case you upgrade your TVs at some point) for less than half as much as your device cost and there are even cheaper ones that are equivalent to your device, starting at around 15 bucks. Some of these have more advanced features, like picture in picture. This is quite handy, I've used this to watch over a download on a games console while watching something else on most of the screen, just to name one application (my screen already comes with this feature).
What I noticed is that most manufacturers appear to avoid naming the specific HDMI standard their devices support, at least on shop pages (it's often only in the manuals). However, by looking at the specs and comparing them to this table, it's usually not that hard to figure out which version of HDMI is being supported.
For the soundbar, they're generally not recommended on this sub.
That being said, if you absolutely have to have one and don't want recommendations for a receiver/speaker setup, Vizio is probably the best value for the money. This 3.1 model is $220 and will have a wireless sub.
As for the switch you posted, that won't work for your setup because it only has 3 inputs. You want one that does 4X1, which will be something like this.
This one auto switches for me. It's powered off my TVs USB and has been pretty good for two years now.
I bought this about 9 months ago. It's works great and can be powered off the tv's usb port.
I hadn't had issues with the built-in switch in my audio receiver so far, but the HDMI switch I used before I got my sound system was a mess when it came to this. When I would play on my PS4, the screen would go black for a few seconds then back to the PS4. It only did it when the Switch was docked so I knew that was the culprit. If you're looking for an HDMI switch and you own a Switch, avoid this one in the meantime because you WILL have issues.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BV1XBIY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Would it work, do you think, to have 3 of:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BV1XBIY?psc=1
Box 1 would be main monitor and keyboard, mouse, etc. 2nd and 3rd would be additional displays.
I have this one and it works beautifully. no complaints.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BV1XBIY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Glad to help! This the the HDMI switch I am using: https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Supports-Adapter-Required-Nintendo/dp/B01EHAAHOW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495814423&sr=8-1&keywords=aukey+hdmi+switch
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Bi-Directional-Supports-Splitter-Blu-Ray/dp/B01EHAAHOW i just bought this but it doesn’t support 4:4:4, so i can’t use HDR with this.
AUKEY HDMI Switch Bi-Directional 2x1 Supports 4K 3D HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 Out for Xbox One / PS4 /HDTV/Blu-Ray Player/DVD / DVR/Apple TV etc. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EHAAHOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ioZ-BbZSYT8E4
Get this one, I use it with my One X, PS4 Pro, Switch, and a PS3 which I also run through a splitter to my capture card. No issues whatsoever, I even got my universal remote to work with it.
E-SDS UHD 4K@60Hz HDMI Switch ,5x1 HDMI Switch with IR Wireless Remote, Auto EDID, HDMI 2.0, HDCP 2.2, and RS232 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FXALWYY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Thanks, that would probably work but I can't seem to locate one in the US. This one on Amazon should do the trick. While I wait for it to show up in stock I've changed my NUC so it won't sleep. My Roku is always on anyway so now the switch won't be triggered to change the HDMI. At least I'm hoping.
Make sure you confirm that for whatever model you end up buying, but it's essentially just splitting a digital signal. It either works fully or doesn't. HDR is, to my knowledge, and algorithm within the signal. I don't think you can limit it with a hub any more than a receiver does.
In any case, this hub supports pretty much all you need.
https://www.amazon.com/SDS-Switch-Wireless-Remote-RS232/dp/B01FXALWYY
I don't own one but here you go, up to 4k 60hz, I don't know about hdr. Please do your own research. Key terms: hdmi standard audio supprt, hdmi standard video support, what hdmi revision supports hdr, what is hdcp
https://www.amazon.com/SDS-Switch-Wireless-Remote-RS232/dp/B01FXALWYY
This one has 4k support It has the best reviews for Xbox one S I could find and there's a few threads on different forums saying it works well. I'm in the same boat ATM have an old (2011) samsung plasma tv, no 4k but 1080 and 600hz, so don't need the receiver yet...
I use this one. It was the only one I found that had more slots and supported 4k@60fps. It does flicker for about one second after the first couple of minutes, but other than that it's perfect. All the reviews talk about how it flickers on the PS4 Pro and the Xbox One S.
Lol my bad I didn't realize I linked to the same one. Stand by.
Edit: this switch has a remote and should not have any auto switching.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FXALWYY/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1500858657&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=4k+hdmi+2.0+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=311hIUJxynL&ref=plSrch
here's one: https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Switcher-Selector-Extractor-Splitter/dp/B01HM1RP6G/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1483308418&sr=1-1&keywords=hdmi+switch+optical+audio+out
This is correct.
I'd get one with an optical audio out as well, so you can connect that to your soundbar.
https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Switcher-Selector-Extractor-Splitter/dp/B01HM1RP6G
Stay away from wireless whenever possible if latency could be an issue.
It is very odd that the TV doesn't have any audio out. What is the model #?
The audio outs on a lot of TV's these days come out of a 3.5mm jack including optical at times.
If your TV truly doesn't have any audio out, here is a switcher with optical out out:. Tendak 4 x 1 HDMI Switch with Audio Out Optical SPDIF Coaxial & RCA L/R 4 Port HDMI Switcher Box Selector Audio Extractor Splitter with IR Remote Supports 4Kx2K, ARC, MHL, Full 3D for Apple TV 4Gen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HM1RP6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6cggAb16N9162
$40 This is what I use, it's working great. I love the remote. It support 2.1 and 5.1 I believe.
Tendak 4 x 1 HDMI Switch with Audio Out Optical SPDIF Coaxial & RCA L/R 4 Port HDMI Switcher Box Selector Audio Extractor Splitter with IR Remote Supports 4Kx2K, ARC, MHL, Full 3D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HM1RP6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DtRgzb59G9006
$30 There's also this one, I think they both have the same audio extraction system:
Tendak 4K x 2K HDMI to HDMI and Optical TOSLINK SPDIF + 3.5mm Stereo Audio Extractor Converter HDMI Audio Splitter Adapter(HDMI Input, HDMI + Digital / Analog Audio Output) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZuRgzbQKSPMR6
I'm not sure why you would want to do that, but I'd imagine a better option for that would be using an HDMI + Audio Splitter. Just switch your monitor/speakers/headset to the other input when you want to switch without trying to force it through the PC.
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Switcher-Selector-Supports-Automatic/dp/B01HM1RP6G/ref=sr_1_29?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1503496042&sr=1-29-spons&keywords=Audio%2B%2B%2BHDMI%2BSwitch&th=1
Something like this?
Doesn't have RCA for audio but you can use a 3.5mm to stereo RCA cable.
I went ahead and got this switch. Seems like a combo of what you described. It has a 3.5mm jack that will hopefully play nicely with my 2.1 speakers.
 
Regarding the audio out from the projector, I've read in numerous reviews that the audio chip on the projector is low quality and that the bass/treble are severely lacking coming from the projector. Also there were several reports that the projector adds hissing sounds/glitches. I decided to avoid it altogether.
 
I'll report back once I get everything up and running.
Not sure why they recommend that one since it seems to only output 2 ch stereo audio. I just bought this last week for a different reason and it works great. There's also 4 way splitters to hook up all your HDMI devices.
My wife and I currently live in a small apartment, so, admittedly, we sit WAY to close to the screen given how big I have it set (it's about 85in and we sit maybe seven feet back, which is a bit too close). The good thing about a projector, by the way, is that the screen size is variable. We've taken it places before and blown it up to its max height (130 inches, I think?), and I've taken it places and set it MUCH smaller as well.
Speakers aren't hard to set up. There are really two options for setting them up. The first is to go into your device (Playstation, BR player, whatever) and tell it to output the audio through a cable other than the HDMI output (which is what they do by default), you'll then have two cables running out of your speaker: 1. HDMI going to the projector, and 2. one of the various sorts of audio cables going out to the speakers. This can get messy if you have multiple devices, however, as you'll need an audio switcher, and you may run out of HDMI ports on the back of the projector.
Your second option is to buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Optical-Extractor-Splitter-Supports/dp/B01K7BZ1XC/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484149764&sr=1-10&keywords=hdmi+switch
With this you plug in each of your devices via HDMI. You then run one HDMI cable to the projector and one sound cable to the speakers. The box splits the HDMI single for you and it acts as a switch between your devices. I personally use this box and love it (I run a firestick, PS3, and a region free blu-ray player into my projector and speakers).
And feel free to keep asking questions, please. =)
You can keep the current capture card and just duplicate your display using windows settings or nvidia control panel. Then use an hdmi splitter with an analog output to snag game sound for headphones.
Example of hdmi splitter: 3x1 V1.4 HDMI Switch with TOSLINK Optical SPDIF & RCA L/R Audio Out, 3 Port HDMI Audio Extractor Splitter with Remote, Supports ARC, 4kx2k@30hz, Full 3D, 1080P https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K7BZ1XC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3Ht4Ab8DY0WQG
I'm planning on doing a similar thing with my PC, xbone, and switch. I was looking at this and paring it with this. I have no idea how well this will work tho
Replace your HDMI switch with one that has audio extraction
like this
Is anyone using their switch with a DAC? I'm trying to get my PC set up with some new speakers, which will be powered through a DAC/AMP combo. Currently I have some cheap Logitech speakers, which are also connected to my Switch through my monitor (Switch -> HDMI -> Monitor -> 3.5mm -> Speakers).
Unfortunately this method won't work with my new audio setup, so I need to connect my Switch to my DAC somehow. I've tried a direct USB connection through the dock, but the audio still goes over HDMI to my monitor, instead of to the DAC. I've heard that the Switch is supposed to work with DACs, so I'm a little confused here. How do I make the audio go to the DAC instead of to the monitor?
Do I need an HDMI splitter like this? In that case I would have (Switch -> HDMI -> Splitter), and then (Splitter -> HDMI -> Monitor) and (Splitter -> Optical -> DAC -> AMP -> Speakers). Would that work? Or is there a way to connect the Switch directly to the DAC while preventing the audio from going over HDMI to the monitor?
My DAC is a Schiit Modi 3, BTW.
Hello again!
With this device would I be able to connect both my PS3 and PS4 to this via HDMI, and extract audio from both of them with a single optical audio and extract video from both of them with a single HDMI cable? (Because later I realized I only have one HDMI on my monitor.)
I'll try that when I get home. It's worth a shot.
I'm also eyeing https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Optical-Extractor-Splitter-Supports/dp/B01K7BZ1XC/
It looks like that would solve the problem and give me optical out that I need, but I'm not sure.
You can use a HDMI Switch/splitter like this one.
The one I purchased does support DTS. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K7BZ1XC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I have spent an illogical amount of time watching these audio lag tests and have not once thought to put it in slow-motion! That is a brilliant idea, and I will be doing that as soon as I get home today. Glad to know that the HDMI splitter / audio extractor helped. Do mind sharing which one you have? I'm eying this one, but am indecisive.
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Lossless-Computer-Controller-Adjuster/dp/B01MV411BR
https://www.amazon.com/Griffin-Technology-NA16029-Multimedia-Controller/dp/B003VWU2WA/
I'm looking into different options for a desktop volume control knob, similar to this one
However... I figured if I'm going to spend $40 on something like this.. maybe there are DAC/Amps that could do the same thing for around the same price.. or even a little more. Do any of you know of an item like this?
I just ordered a Sennheiser HD558 Cs. I may eventually upgrade, but at the moment, I don't require a DAC/Amp, just looking for versatility and thinking about future proofing this purchase.
TIL the existence of auto hotkey :)
installed it and made a simple script to get F9-11 to increase, lower, mute the volume. Works like a charm.
Of course if I actually need those keys I'll have to remember to disable it, but I think overall this solves my problem.
No lie, I was about 5 mins away from ordering something like this: https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Lossless-Computer-Controller-Adjuster/dp/B01MV411BR?keywords=usb+volume+knob&qid=1540689669&sr=8-3&ref=sr_1_3
It's half the cost of the keyboard, but I really am used to having a quick volume control on hand.
Interesting. I saw references to UCR when I was working on getting my warthog throttle working with star citizen.
These are the ones I'm interested in (especially the Griffin one), but they don't say anything about MIDI. Do you think one might be able to be turned into a virtual joystick slider using UCR?
https://www.amazon.com/Griffin-Technology-NA16029-Multimedia-Controller/dp/B003VWU2WA
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Lossless-Computer-Controller-Adjuster/dp/B01MV411BR
Edit: Actually I just realized the griffin is discontinued and sold out or overpriced most places... I guess the other one is ok too.
Its rather large but this volume knob should work.
I'm using the Ibis from Sewell on my LG TV with no problems:
https://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Switch-pass-through-support-Bi-Directional/dp/B06WP755QH/
Yeah, I suppose a little rig info would have helped. I have a
Samsung js7000 suhd tv with one UHD port.
>PS4 pro > single Ibis input
>Ibis output 1 > second switch(to TV)
>Ibis output 2 > PSVR "TO PS4" hdmi port on processor unit.
>Processor unit to second switch(TV)
These and these are the cables I've tried in various combinations with the PS4 pro hdmi that came with the system.
Like I said, all of the hdmi cables from the ps4 to tv support RGB and HDR.
HDR is not supported on either channel of the Ibis switch on a tv that is HDR capable. Both channels on the switch shows that HDR is not supported and can not work due to the vr processor, which leads me to believe that the only signal being picked up is the vr processor, and not that of the ps4 pro.
I'd suggest a switch instead of a splitter. The Sewell Ibis does the trick.
Link
Here is a YouTube Video showing the setup you need.
I just set mine up today. So far it works as advertised.
I wanted to avoid going to the back of the TV to change cables so I'm using this HDMI switch, it supports 4k HDR pass through with HDCP 2.2
There is a cable diagram and more information / other solutions on this NeoGAF thread about this issue.
I'm using this. It works great. HDMI 2.0 and HDCP 2.2.
That one isn't very good. Get this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WP755QH/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506803527&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=sewell+hdmi+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=516oaVfdSbL&ref=plSrch
You press a button and it will switch to the other hdmi. Have one going to tv and one to monitor. So when your wife wants to watch tv, click the button and bam it goes to the monitor.
They all usually auto switch. When I had an elaborate setup I just went with a $5-$7 one off Amazon. Had 3 inputs and came with a basic remote. Worked fine even without using the power cord. For reference I was using a cable box, PS4, and htpc Which later changed to a fire stick. It was just like this https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Intelligent-Switcher-splitter-Supports/dp/B0739GSKV2 but it was about 4-5yrs ago so it was minus the 4K of this one. hth
First, questions.
Now, a suggestion.
Anyway, some options.
^(Notes)
^(- None of these options should introduce lag, but if you get a splitter or switch box, make sure they're noted with low-latency and check the reviews.)
^(- You could stream the game to your TV with something like the Steam Link... but your TV is in the same room as the PC-- hell from the sounds of it, it's within the same arm's reach as the TV. Streaming it is alright if the system and the TV were across the house, but its a needlessly complicated and clunky idea in this situation.)
^(- If you do use a hardware solution, keep in mind that the small consumer boxes can only use cables of a reasonable length. Generally speaking, you shouldn't use a cable longer than 9ft from the box to your TV, or the wire won't carry the signal to the display. Longer than that, you'll probably need a) ^(signal repeater)^(.)
If you have any questions, let me know. I hope this helps you find your answer.
EDIT: More info.
So, this is going to be somewhat of a silly setup, but you’re going to need an RCA splitter, an RCA to HDMI converter, and an HDMI splitter. I’ve used several hdmi splitters in the past and they’ve all been fairly solid, but I can’t vouch for the RCA splitters. Speaking from experience, the trickiest part is getting proper 5.1 audio if you have a surround sound system as most TVs only pass stereo. But, if you’re using the TV’s speakers you’ll be just fine anyway. Not sure what your budget is, but here’s something to get you started:
AuviPal 4-Way RCA Switcher 4 in 1 Out Composite Video L/R Audio AV Selector Box for DVD VCR VHS/AV Receiver/Game Consoles
and...
RCA to HDMI, GANA 1080P Mini RCA Composite CVBS AV to HDMI Video Audio Converter Adapter Supporting PAL/NTSC with USB Charge Cable for PC Laptop Xbox PS4 PS3 TV STB VHS VCR Camera DVD
Then as many male to male RCA cables as you need.
Finally the hdmi splitter:
HDMI Switch 4k,GANA Intelligent 3-Port HDMI Switcher,Splitter, Supports 4K, Full HD1080p, 3D with IR Remote
^ yeah just get a hdmi switch, they're relatively cheap. I picked up this hdmi switch https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Intelligent-Switcher-Splitter-Supports/dp/B0739GSKV2/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1542838818&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hdmi+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=51PZQ4cdHEL&ref=plSrch lets me connect my secondary gaming pc, ps3, and xbox 360 to my TV, Been working just fine so far. Also came with a remote to let me switch between devices
Buy a HDMI Switcher. You can get some on Amazon that some with remotes.
Like this:
HDMI Switch 4k,GANA Intelligent 3-Port HDMI Switcher,splitter, Supports 4K, Full HD1080p, 3D with IR Remote
HDMI Switch 4k,GANA Intelligent 3-Port HDMI Switcher,Splitter, Supports 4K, Full HD1080p, 3D with IR Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0739GSKV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iqvQCbVYBFWP4
Something like that would do it
use the HDMI out from your PC, Switch and PS4 and run into an HDMI switch:
​
https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Intelligent-Switcher-Splitter-Supports/dp/B0739GSKV2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=hdmi+switch&qid=1555316855&s=electronics&sr=1-4
​
Connect HDMI out from above to HDMI IN on audio extractor: https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Toslink-Converter/dp/B00KBHX072?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1
​
use this cable to convert your HDMI video coming out of the audio extractor to DVI and run to your LCD : https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Input-Output-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hdmi+to+dvi&qid=1555316493&s=gateway&sr=8-3
​
Run RCA audio cables out of the audio extractor (above) and connect to your RCA AUDIO INPUTS on your LCD - you don't need 5.1 or surround sound for onboard stereo speakers analog L/R is fine.
​
Hope this helps.
Anyone who is curious, I went with a super cheap option ($10) and it works just fine for now, no noticeable loss in video.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0739GSKV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just did this a couple of weeks ago, running Nuforce STA200 paired with Emotiva UMC-200 and Kenwood KD-2070 paired with Sony 7065 powering SVS Prime Towers.
I bought this from Amazon ton make switching between amp faster.
Works great for me.
You are looking for something like this switch
edit- to say i used the search term:
2 amp one speaker switch
in case you'd like to refine or otherwise use it to look at other sites
Posted this in /audio and /hometheatre but got nothing yet, thought I would try in here and hope someone can help me.
 
I have speaker cables coming from my old B&O amp for my Turntable; and I have speaker cables coming from my Sony STRDN1080 receiver - both going to the front Dali speakers.
 
Most of the time I just have my AV receiver connected up to all the speakers, and when I want to listen to my Hi-fi I unplug the two fronts and plug in the cables from my turntable.
 
Obviously I would like a more automated solution, but I'm not even sure if there is a specific product name I should be looking for. I have googled various combinations of 'speaker selector','speaker switch', 'audio splitter' even '2 in 1 out speaker switch' And haven't found anything really. Most results are for feeding multiple speakers from one source, and very few are banana plug inputs, most are audio sources (optical, rca) or spring loaded speaker clips.
 
The closest I have seen that would do the trick is this from the US amazon site linked from my upgrade thread. But I can't find similar in the UK, and auto switching would be great if possible.
 
Is there anything out there available from UK i can look at? If I had any hair left I'd be pulling it out by now. ;)
Cheers,
A audio switch is probably the best solution.
Something like this
https://www.amazon.ca/Nobsound-Audio-Switcher-Selector-Splitter/dp/B07CKK7J2L/
That makes sense. Running up and down stairs 3 times is certainly not ideal. Do you mean something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Audio-Switcher-Selector-Splitter/dp/B07CKK7J2L/ref=sr_1_6?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1539972368&sr=1-6&keywords=rca+selector
It also has a mute button which would essentially give you the 'nothing is connected to anything' scenario.
I use this bad boy
wooden switch
If you must stay with rca
use this
This One makes it Easy - pic #5 . 3.5 mm to rca into it. 2 sets rca output - one to edifiers, one to sub.
https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Audio-Switcher-Selector-Splitter/dp/B07CKK7J2L/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=passive+preamp&qid=1570423599&sr=8-17
I'm not sure what you mean by cinch switch but there are certainly RCA A/B switchers. Example: https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Audio-Switcher-Selector-Splitter/dp/B07CKK7J2L/
You can also use any 3.5mm switcher and 3.5 to RCA cables if you find one cheaper. I mainly told you about the pre-out since it is free. This would make it so you don't have to plug/unplug it adjust volume.
You'll want an amplifier for the speakers.
Possible parts list totaling about $150:
You've got two basic options, an HDMI Audio Extracter or a Digital to analog audio converter. The converter will probably be cheaper.
Note: I haven't used these particular products and have supplied their links as suggestions of products to look for. They SHOULD work for your intended purpose, but I can't guarantee anything, read reviews, but they should get you headed in the right direction if they themselves aren't what you need.
This. We use the HDMI to HDMI with audio jack for the hen we do competitions. Works great!
Edit: here is what we use!!
avedio links HDMI to HDMI + Optical Toslink SPDIF + 3.5mm AUX Stereo Audio Out
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H94D77V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1tqqDb9H14FQM
not all headsets require an optical output. Some of the 5.1 or 7.1 headsets don't work that great either.
But that's one reason I have bigger model rather and a slim. All you need is a splitter off of the HDMI if you need optical.
https://www.amazon.com/avedio-links-Extractor-Splitter-Converter/dp/B07H94D77V/
I'm not sure if that's the cheapest or best one. just found one to link for you.
Some headsets are not comfortable and get hot. I'd give it a little more research but I think your best solution is some open back sennheiser headsets and mute your mics.
Perhaps something like this would work for you?
https://www.amazon.com/avedio-links-Extractor-Splitter-Converter/dp/B07H94D77V/
Never tried them myself.
Also, what type of input does your sub have?
Thank you so much for replying! I'm following what you're saying at a really basic level but that sounds a bit like another language to me. I don't mean to take up much more of your time but could you possibly send me a couple of links for the products needed for whichever of the two options you described above would be cheapest (I'm guessing the second option)? I'll hop online now as well to try to find products that match your description. Thanks again friend.
EDIT: Would this work?? It seems like this has a 3.5 mm out so I might not need a phono L/R to 3.5 mm socket adapter (not exactly sure what that is yet)?? https://www.amazon.com/avedio-links-Extractor-Splitter-Converter/dp/B07H94D77V
Bluetooth can sound pretty good, but it's variable depending on the specific protocols each piece of equipment supports. Ultimately, though, using wireless for a permanent connection is sort of silly. You'd be better-off with an HDMI ARC extractor.
I haven't tried it but what if you use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/avedio-links-Extractor-Splitter-Converter/dp/B07H94D77V/ref=pd_sbs_23_t_0/144-5444921-2325455?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07H94D77V&pd_rd_r=902ed8e7-fc83-4fd9-a571-45cf1f2f7bc9&pd_rd_w=hJI8M&pd_rd_wg=V0FyX&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=YKADZBMQABMM1VBSJZBG&psc=1&refRID=YKADZBMQABMM1VBSJZBG
​
Use a chromecast (the normal hdmi one) and adapt it to this for 3.5mm out ?
I assume a couple of these with the correct, analog cables running into the mixer would suffice.
from the tv into the z906.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H94D77V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought this yesterday, hasnt arrived yet. I now feel that this may be the wrong choice? L:/
Contacted TCL and they told me that it wont work because the CEC wouldnt pick up that connection.
That it "only picks up HDMI to HDMI connections" But I feel like this is- technically-suitable, well see?
This works great I
Nobsound Little Bear MC1022 Mini... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CKK7J2L?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Then this to your Logitech
3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Cable - 8 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8uYOBbPHNEYV1
First: Canada, or US?
Second: Online, or in-store?
Third: Warranty possible, not necessary?
Fourth: Edge-lit or not, the difference when it comes to LED's is very minimal, unless you're a TV or A/V purist/tester.
I think /u/vitras has a good option, since the 350$ card can buy you a set of speakers...
If I may ask though... why 3 HDMI? You can just get one of these