Best usb-to-usb adapters according to redditors

Get a couple of the TechMatte adapters, and put them in important places (office, battery pack pouch, car,...). Now you can borrow chargers, and use your old equipment.

http://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG/

So cheap, and these are Benson approved.

If you don't want to watch the video that's cool, here's a summary;

Over the last few months I've been testing various cables for use with my four sensor setup. What I quickly discovered was that not all cables are created equal in the eyes of the Oculus Rift!

The Rift and Sensors can be a bit stubborn when it comes to cables. Some work intermitantly, some report USB 3.0 as USB 2.0, some give audio issues when using with the Rift and some just point blank refused to work.

I think I've finally nailed down the best cables which I've personally tested and would recommend to use with your Rift.

Due to the summer sale I know we have an influx of new Rift users so hopefully this guide helps.

Here's the links where you can buy these cables for yourself;

Cable Matters USB 3.0 3M /10FT Extension Cable:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_3?th=1

US - https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503739950&sr=8-1&keywords=cable+matters+superspeed+usb+3.0

KabelDirekt 2m / 6FT HDMI Extension Cable:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B013ICN59Y/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_2

US - https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-Extension-Cable-1080p-Ethernet/dp/B012ASNHIG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740842&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=kabeldirekt+2m+extension

DVI to HDMI Adapter:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ZMVGTA2/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_1

US - https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-2-Pack-Gold-Plated-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMVGTA2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503740883&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=DVI+to+HDMI+adapter&psc=1

CableCreation 5M / 16FT USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable (Fine For Sensors BUT Causes Audio Issues When Using With Rift):

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740956&sr=8-7&keywords=cable+creations+usb+3.0

US - https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740977&sr=8-1&keywords=cablecreation+usb+3.0

UGREEN 5M / 16FT USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable (Additional Power Micro USB Port isn't required when using the Rift. Do not use this with the Rift as may cause damage)

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Extension-Amplifier-PlayStation-loudspeakers/dp/B01FQ88CE6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741031&sr=8-2&keywords=ugreen+oculus+cable

US - https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Extension-Repeater-Amplifier-Superspeed/dp/B01FQ88CE6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741078&sr=8-5&keywords=ugreen%2Busb%2B3.0%2Bextension&th=1

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI 4.6M / 15FT Cable:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8TOTC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

US - https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Rated-Wall-Installation-Cable/dp/B014I8TOTC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741177&sr=8-2&keywords=AmazonBasics+High-Speed+HDMI+CL3+Cable

Mini HDMI Repeater Extender:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Repeater-Extender-130FT-Support-Switch/dp/B01MDS8DJH/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503740907&sr=1-11&keywords=hdmi+repeater

US - https://www.amazon.com/COWEEN-Repeater-Amplifier-Extender-Transmission/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740927&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+repeater

Hope this helps :)

For the 2 sensors on the wall above the computer I'm using 10ft USB 3.0 extension cables. For the 3rd camera I'm using a 16.4ft USB 2.0 extension cable, as well as a 6ft USB 3.0 extension cable because the 2.0 cable wasn't long enough. I have all 3 cameras plugged into the same USB controller on the motherboard. Since I'm using a 2.0 extension cable, the 3rd camera is running via USB 2.0.

I'm using a 10ft HDMI extension cable and a 10ft USB 3.0 cable for the headset. The extension cables are electrical taped together and secured to my desk using velcro straps. I have the headset USB plugged into a PCI-E USB card I bought because I was running out of USB ports.

It's worth noting that for the first couple of days, I was getting occasional errors where the it said the headset was disconnected and I would have to unplug the USB and plug it back in. Since moving the headset to the USB on the PCI-E card (off the same controller as the sensors) I have not had this issue or any other issues to speak of.

6ft 3.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

16.4ft 2.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KY9M51O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

10ft 3.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB PCI-E Expansion Card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

10ft HDMI Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Upvote for visibility. This is something I desperately need answered as well. Can anyone confirm whether this Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to 2 Female Adapter USB A Cord 2 Port Hub for Data Charging Syncing (Only one Port for Data) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4ocSBbK5VB9ZM works?

You could just use one of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7S2FRE/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503165491&sr=1-3&keywords=usb+extension+cable)

http://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Upgraded-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG/ref=pd_cp_147_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1QPK4093FC59VZDY43BB

Benson approved! Check the first review.

Only 2 reviews with the only verified one with wonky english? Pass.

You want a adapter that wont fry your phone? Stick to the stuff Benson has approved of like this one for $6.99 https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Converts-Resistor-ChromeBook/dp/B01AHKYIRS

Or this one for $1 less than the Anker : https://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG

If anyone needs a smaller run- I successfully extended my setup 6 feet using cheap cables off Amazon.

These are the exact cables I’m using:


Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable (USB 3.0 Extension Cable) in Black 6 Feet for Oculus Rift, HTC Vive, Playstation VR Headset and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7S2FRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fRCRDbCTBPZSF

Cable Matters DisplayPort to DisplayPort Extension Cable (DP to DP Extension Cable) 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L1K1G74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oSCRDbD0YGAVG

For reference: AORUS RTX 2080 Waterforce

Going direct into the MOBO for the USB extender.

I have been running it this was for close to a month and have logged probably a day worth of playtime. I have not noticed any blips/artifacts or any visual/lag issues. It’s like the cables aren’t even there.

You need a splitter and a data blocker to charge two iPhones. Not sure about android.

Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to 2 Female Adapter USB A Cord 2 Port Hub for Data Charging Syncing (Only one Port for Data) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mGxzCbR70BH70

PortaPow 3rd Gen Data Blocker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGM6LJB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vHxzCbPGCG2NR

Photo of setup.

https://imgur.com/gallery/jubfyvn

Ordered this $6 USB splitter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KX4TKH6/

Car Configuration:

1 USB into NOMAD

1 USB into Splitter that then splits the Power (Red Elastic on Wire) into NOMAD and Power+Data into flash drive.

​

Everything seems great, pulled dashcam footage from a few drives and wasn't missing anything and NOMAD keeps my phone charged. Will see how it keeps up over the next few weeks.

I used THIS, THIS and THIS to extend my Pimax. Works great, no problems.

I have a OnePlus X that still works great. I think the galaxy S6 and S7 both use micro USB as well.

[or you could keep one of these with you] (https://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG)

https://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG

I use it for my Pixel phone. I haven't tried charging a MacBook using one.

What's with the Amazon links being attached to a Youtube link?

For those looking for clean links:

1. USB-C to DisplayPort Adapter
   
2. USB-C to DisplayPort Adapter
   
3. DisplayPort Extension Cable
   
4. USB Extension Cable
   
   EDIT: OP clarified why the links are buried in Youtube links since this post.

I've been having success with:

• 10-ft HDMI extension (Monoprice Active Select RedMere): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D5ETHE/
  
• HDMI repeater (Shenfan 4K2K Repeater): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M02Z4FU
  
• 10-ft USB3 extension (Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U

This splitter will work https://www.amazon.com/Onvian-Splitter-Adapter-Charging-Syncing/dp/B01KX4TKH6/

On mobile so I'll link them here:

hub is StarTechDotCom

coupler is Riipoo

cable is CableMatters

Was putting my faith in the descriptions that they were really rated at 10Gbps since the hub and coupler basically no-name brands but I am thoroughly enjoying it.

You don’t need a bunch of dongles. There are hundreds of options that combine all of them in to one.

I went with this Satechi adapter because it has anything I could need. They have cheaper versions with less ports too.

I also grabbed two of these Anker adapters in case I just wanted to plug in a single cable.

With these two options I can plug in 99% of accessories that I will ever need.

Yeah, I bought these 2 extension cables (6ft), wall mount for the headset/touch controllers and cable suspension system. They all work perfectly :)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045532LU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0777H24ZG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0781G75B5/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is why I was thinking it would have been nice if we created a list from the start where we compile what hardware works and what doesn't, both for USB cables, and HDMI, and motherboards too.

But in any case, if it's useful, these work for me:

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Extension-Cable-10-FT/dp/B00GBBSZFE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

How about 10 more feet?

Only $6.

power:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_WTxdxbG2WKX4D

Usb:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_YGxdxbPW3R45Z

HDMI:https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Commercial-Premium-Female-Extension/dp/B004C4SECG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1460784534&sr=8-1&keywords=Monoprice+Commercial+Series+Premium+10ft+24AWG+CL2+High+Speed+HDMI+Cable+Male+to+Female+Extension+-+Black

I used black electrical tape to group the cables together after stretching them out and it works great. I accidentally made the usb to tight and occaisonally it pops out during transportation but rarely so if your going to group them together make sure they have enough slack.

These should be everything you need and I've tested them with just the Oculus and they work perfectly:

• HDMI http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI
  
• USB http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U
  
  You could get a 2-pack of the USB extender which may work with the camera as well.

Here's the items I purchased to extend the headset 10 feet.

Power cable- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FT9VW0O/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJ517VI/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7SA21U/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also went with a 1/2" braided sleeve to hold them all together. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZATN3WI/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Edit: Including like where I got my info originally. https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/4eiqda/10ft_extension_cables_after_the_breakout_box/?sort=confidence

You can get a USB A to C cable or USB Micro B to USB C adapters:

1.USB C Adapter, Micro USB To Type-c Gray

Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191FRCAA

Code: 4KTFCY39 ($5 Off)

Final Price: $4.99


2.USB Type C Cable, USB-C Cable Gray

Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191E0NQQ

Code: T9LUVS3H ($5 off)

Final Price: $5.99

I have [this splitter.](Onvian USB Splitter Cable... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6) One side is for music on my flash drive, the other is for a qi charger. I haven't tested the charging speed, but it does charge while music is playing. For backup, I've got a charger in the cigarette lighter.

Many laptops have a USB-C port that is capable of being used in displayport mode, and transmitting a displayport signal.

I have 2 Dell displayport monitors that I connect to my MacBook Pro using one of these cables: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EXKDRAC/

There are also adapters like this for existing cables: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N2ORP84/

Since what you're looking at is "thunderbolt 3 compatible", I believe that also means it'll work in displayport mode.

Got the below ones from amazon. They work great and are spec compliant

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0151RKYBG/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Correct, that dongle is for the Chromebook Pixel. Almost no Android phone these days contains the chip needed for HDMI output natively. The solution I use that is very reliable in most situations is an adapter that uses the DisplayLink protocol.

I use this adapter or the 2K version: https://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=9SIA2XB38Z2801
It's also on Amazon, I just found this link first.
You'll also need a USB 3.0 capable USB-C OTG adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_T.Pxyb7RV5ABE

And lastly, install the DisplayLink Presenter app on your device. Once set up it will output the full display at all times (though media apps like Netflix and Hulu generally don't work).

Vrcover for sure
And don't get the PK Cell, get these

USB Rechargeable Batteries 1.5V/1500mAh Lithium Ion AA Battery with 4-in-1 Micro USB Charging Cable 1.5h Quick-Charge Built-in Integrated Safety Circuit Protection Double A Batteries(4 Pack)) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F27PK2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JBc7CbNV06EYV

Or these

CT ENERGY USB Rechargeable AA Batteries 1.5V/1600mAh Lithium ion Battery with 1.5 Hours Quick Charging Micro-USB Port Li-ion Double A Batteries (4packs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q3DBYV7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sCc7Cb0R2DXZZ

I have both and they are great batteries.

Extensions that work:

AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H90L4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lDc7CbBE9E1R5

6ft


Cable Matters 200008-BLACK-6 USB to USB Extension Cable in Black 6 Feet Available 3FT 10FT in Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7S2FRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ODc7CbA4Q82ZZ

6ft

And I like to use the usb-c port on my laptop. It's closer to the HDMI and seems like a stronger port when using the usb extension.

AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB 3.1 Gen1 Female Adapter Cable - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYXVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8Dc7CbJA5TMTV

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PalXBb2ZR2MEV

This one is used successfully by someone doing a Pi Zero project to do USB music, TeslaCam, and the Nomad.

Walls

• 2x Monster LED Strip https://www.walmart.com/ip/MONSTER-MOOD-LIGHTING-KIT-LARGE/769116611
  
  
• 2x(Pack) Art3d Wall Panels https://www.amazon.com/Art3d-Textures-Panels-Diamond-Design/dp/B073NZ67LK
  
  
• Scotch Mounting Tape https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Outdoor-Mounting-60-inches-411P/dp/B0083K36KA
  
  
• 3 Light Floor Lamp https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-64-Track-Tree-Floor-Lamp-Black/12173440
  
  
• 3x Monster RGB Bulbs https://www.walmart.com/ip/MONSTER-MOOD-LIGHTING-KIT-LARGE/769116611
  
  Room
  
  
• Fluance Ai60 Speakers - White Walnut https://www.amazon.com/Fluance-Performance-Bookshelf-Amplifier-*Turntable/dp/B07MKP345F
  
  
• Kanto Speaker Stands 26" https://www.amazon.com/Kanto-SP26PLW-Bookshelf-Speaker-Stands/dp/B07K4XHRYM
  
  
• noblechairs ICON Chair - Blue/Graphite Real Leather https://www.amazon.com/noblechairs-ICON-Gaming-Chair-*Midnight/dp/B072JKB516
  
  
• Basenji/Boston Terrier Dog
  
  
• Sherpa Dog Cuddle Throw https://www.amazon.com/Life-Comfort-Microfiber-Polyester-Ultimate/dp/B01JNMI5BQ
  
  
• Call It Spring 10.5 Brisbourne https://www.callitspring.com/us/en_US/men/footwear/casual-shoes/Brisbourne/p/11152086
  
  
• Sandles - Generic (Circa 2011)
  
  
• New Balance 10.5 (Circa 2009)
  
  
• Uni USB C SD/MicroSD Card Reader https://www.amazon.com/MicroSD-Thunderbolt-Adapter-Compatible-MacBook/dp/B07DJT5GPT
  
  Desk (Left)
  
  
• Alera Cherry Shell 72x24 https://www.amazon.com/Alera-VA257224MC-Valencia-29-12-Inch-Credenza/dp/B00272N3KI
  
  
• XXL Mouse Mat - Map https://www.amazon.com/Cmhoo-Professional-Large-Computer-35-4x15-7x0-1IN/dp/B01F0XHA5E
  
  
• $150.00 US Cash
  
  
• Dell 24" Touch Screen https://www.amazon.com/Dell-P2418HT-23-8-Touch-Monitor/dp/B01NBX1Q2T
  
  
• Dell Keyboard https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Business-Multimedia-Keyboard-KB522/dp/B00CBDEEG0
  
  
• Dell Mouse https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-MS111-P-Optical-BUTTON-Original/dp/B014LDW8BK*
  
  Desk (Center)
  
  
• Alera Cherry Shell 60x30 https://www.amazon.com/Alera-VA216030MY-Valencia-2-Inch-Mahogany/dp/B00272N3DK
  
  
• 2x Flirc Raspberry Pi Case Gen2 https://www.amazon.com/Flirc-Raspberry-Case-Gen2-Model/dp/B07349HT26
  
  
• 2x Raspberry Pi 3B https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-MS-004-00000024-Model-Board/dp/B01LPLPBS8
  
  
• Raspberry Pi 4 2GB https://www.canakit.com/raspberry-pi-4-2gb.html
  
  
• 1x(Pack) SanDisk 32GB MicroSD https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-MicroSD-Ultra-UHS-1-Memory/dp/B00CNYV942
  
  
• Samsung PRO 32GB MicroSD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B98GXQT/ref=twister_B07DLWKFTM
  
  
• Mercedes Petronas Lanyard https://f1store.formula1.com/stores/f1/en/product/mercedes-amg-petronas-lanyard/224526
  
  
• 2x Pixio 27" 95Hz IPS HDR https://www.amazon.com/Display-FreeSync-Certified-Productivity-Warranty/dp/B07PZX54QC
  
  
• Viotek 49" 144Hz VA HDR https://www.amazon.com/VIOTEK-SUW49C-49-Inch-Super-Ultrawide/dp/B07L44N45F
  
  
• 3x DisplayPort Cable - 6ft https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Capshi-Braided-Laptop-Monitor/dp/B07GDBXWCQ
  
  
• Cable Matters DisplayPort Extension - 3ft https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Extension-Feet/dp/B00L1K1G74
  
  
• Cable Matters USB 3.0 Extension - 3ft https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Extension-Black-Feet/dp/B00C7S1B4W
  
  
• 2x VIVO Gas Spring Monitor Arm https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Adjustable-Articulating-Counterbalance-STAND-*V001O/dp/B01NH0HTM5
  
  
• VIVO TV Desk Stand https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Universal-Screen-Table-STAND-TV00K/dp/B01CQ0E01Q
  
  
• ASUS ROG Mouse Mat XL https://www.amazon.com/ROG-Sheath-Gaming-Mouse-Pad/dp/B01G5ATZAE
  
  
• ROG Claymore Core Keyboard - Cherry MX Brown https://www.amazon.com/ROG-Claymore-Core-Cherry-Red/dp/B01NGTJBUA
  
  
• ROG Gladius II 12000 DPI Mouse https://www.amazon.com/ROG-Gladius-II-Origin-Acceleration/dp/B078YBG1VZ
  
  
• 2x Samsung Galaxy Tab E 9.6" https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Galaxy-Black-Wi-Fi-SM-T560NZKUXAC/dp/B0161UWH76
  
  
• 2x Walmart ONN 10" Tablet https://www.walmart.com/ip/Onn-10-1-16-GB-Android-Tablet-Bonus-20-off-Walmart-eBooks-Included/258891221
  
  
• 2x KABCON Tablet Stand https://www.amazon.com/Multi-Angle-Adjustable-Aluminum-Microsoft-Countertop/dp/B074J159V5
  
  
• 2x SmartStand Mobile Device Holder https://www.amazon.com/SmartStand-Mobile-Device-Holder-Phones/dp/B0036WTD5C
  
  
• Xbox Wireless Controller - Recon Tech Special Edition https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Xbox-Wireless-Controller-Special-Discontinued/dp/B06XT99YW5
  
  
• REMOTE (Yamaha Soundbar) https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-YAS-107BL-Built-Subwoofers-Bluetooth/dp/B071ZN5PSS
  
  
• REMOTE (Fluance Speakers) https://www.amazon.com/Fluance-Performance-Bookshelf-Amplifier-Turntable/dp/B07MKP345F
  
  
• REMOTE (Roku Streaming Stick+) https://www.amazon.com/Roku-Streaming-Stick-HDR-Streaming-Long-range/dp/B075XLWML4
  
  
• REMOTE (Viotek 49" Monitor) https://www.amazon.com/VIOTEK-SUW49C-49-Inch-Super-Ultrawide/dp/B07L44N45F
  
  
• REMOTE (Samsung 42" 4k HDR TV) https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-43-class-led-nu6900-series-2160p-smart-4k-uhd-tv-with-hdr/6268402.p?skuId=6268402
  
  
• Fostex TH-X00 Ebony Headphones https://drop.com/buy/massdrop-fostex-tr-x00-ebony-headphones
  
  
• Gator Weighted Microphone Stand https://www.amazon.com/Gator-Frameworks-Weighted-Microphone-Dimensions/dp/B00BPELU68
  
  
• Blue Yeti Nano Microphone https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Yeti-Premium-Recording-Streaming/dp/B07DTTGZ7M
  
  Desk (Right)
  
  
• Alera Cherry Shell 72x24 https://www.amazon.com/Alera-VA257224MC-Valencia-29-12-Inch-Credenza/dp/B00272N3KI
  
  
• MSI GS65 STEALTH-006 Gaming Laptop https://www.bestbuy.com/site/msi-15-6-gaming-laptop-intel-core-i7-16gb-memory-nvidia-geforce-rtx-2060-512gb-solid-state-drive-matte-black-with-gold-diamond-cut/6321439.p?skuId=6321439
  
  Computer
  
  
• AMD - Threadripper 1950X 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor
  
  
• AMD - RX5700 XT 50th Anniversary Edition
  
  
• NVIDIA - GeForce RTX 2080 Ti Founders Edition
  
  
• Corsair - H115i PRO 55.4 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
  
  
• Asus - ROG ZENITH EXTREME EATX TR4 Motherboard
  
  
• 2x G.Skill - TridentZ RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
  
  
• Intel - Optane 900P 480 GB PCI-E Solid State Drive
  
  
• Western Digital - SN750 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
  
  
• Phanteks - Enthoo EVOLV TG ATX Tower Anthracite Gray
  
  
• Corsair - HX Platinum 1200 W 80+ Platinum
  
  
• Red Sleeve Extension Power Supply Cable Kit https://www.amazon.com/upHere-Sleeve-Extension-Extra-Sleeved-PIN-Red/dp/B0719Q59YC
  
  
• (Software) Windows 10 LTSC
  
  
• (Software) GameGlass

Yep. I use a 6ft extender for the headset HDMI paired with a 6 ft USB 3.0 extender.

HDMI: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00JJ519KC/

USB: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE

I've been using them for a little over a week now, not a single issue.


EDIT: changed to UK links.

For one sensor, this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and for the other sensor, this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've successfully created a 10 ft (~2m??) extension beyond the break out box. Total cost was under $50. I have a 3.2m x 3.5m or so area and I have more than enough space. One thing I'd note is that the HDMI cable extension is HEAVY/THICK. After I put all the extension cables through the mesh casing, it makes the cable paclage very rigid. Still, this works flawlessly for me! Links to amazon below...

HDMI: Monoprice Commercial Series Premium 10ft 24AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI Cable Male to Female Extension - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004C4SECG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_2a4HxbGN1CTQG

USB: Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Qb4Hxb1AHSCGS

DC Power: Hanvex HDCA12 12 ft 1.3mm DC Power Extension Cable for Foscam, Agasio, Tenvis, Loftek Wireless IP Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_yc4HxbRGNZ5AB

1/2" casing sleeve: 1/2" PET Expandable Braided Sleeving- 10ft - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZATN3WI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Md4HxbR1Y7KTX

Warning: wall of text ahead. I'm going to recycle an older comment and make it more specific to your post.

It kind of depends. What CPU and GPU do/will you have? Do you have enough room to swing your arms while standing stationary? Do you like simulations, such as racing games or flight/space sims? These actually have an impact on the best headset (HMD) for you. I own the Vive (non-Pro), Rift, and Samsung Odyssey so my comments are based on use of all three.

Oculus Rift:

Lighter and easier to deal with. Has built-in audio. Some really nice platform exclusives, though there is a way to play those on the Vive. (More on that shortly.) Cheaper than the Vive, and cheapest option in general other than some Windows Mixed Reality HMDs that you should probably avoid. Tracking is, in my opinion, a little inferior to the Rift, even if you get a 3rd sensor. However, you can "fake it 'til you make it" on the Rift with only two sensors by mounting them in opposite corners of your play area. The Rift requires at least 3 USB 3 ports, or 4 if you add a 3rd sensor, so that's a lot of requyired ports. Seated/standing experiences work slightly better than roomscale, though this is something they've overcome with time. Games/apps purchased through the Oculus Store won't work on another HMD (barring 3rd party hacks/apps), limiting your future hardware upgrade options so buy any non-Oculus exclusives through the Steam store. Touch controllers are the current king for controllers, but Knuckle controllers for Vive/SteamVR are pending. (More on that shortly.) MUCH more pronounced "god rays" than the Rift. The business practices and politics of Facebook/Oculus are questionable, if you care about that sort of thing. Customer service is ticket-based only and there's no option for phone-based support.

HTC Vive:

The regular Vive is $100 outside your price point. The Vive Pro is more than double so I won't go into it much here. The Vive has significantly better tracking than the Rift unless you get at least a 3rd sensor, and even then there are sometimes issues. No built-in audio on the regular Vive but this is resolved with the Deluxe Audio Strap, albeit for $100 more. The Vive offers a better Roomscale experience, in my opinion. Games are purchased through Steam, which means you can take advantage of Steam sales, buy games at a discount (sometimes 80-90% off!) from third-party sites like Humble Bundle, Green Man Gaming, etc. Note, however, that the Rift is compatible with most VR games on Steam, too. You can also play Rift exclusives using free, third-party software called ReVive, but that this is not officially supported and YMMV. Not every game works. (Essentially, it tricks Rift titles into thinking a Rift is connected, and remaps the buttons to the Vive controller. However, since there are differences between the controller control types, this isn't always perfect.) Controllers are meh but work fine; just not as intuitive or comfortable as the Rift's. When (might be a while) the Knuckles controllers finally come out, they'll probably be the best. The Vive is more glasses-friendly but those who are just nearsighted won't necessarily need to wear glasses at all. There's a new wireless adapter that's nice but only applies if you're driving it with a desktop PC because it uses a PCIe card rather than USB. For non-wireless, however, one nice thing about the Vive is that the HMD only uses one USB 3 and one HDMI, and that's it. The Lighthouses (base stations) only need power and don't require USB. HTC support is both phone and ticket but is terrible either way. Some people have resorted to public shaming via YouTube/social media. YMMV.

Samsung Odyssey (WMR):

Higher resolution display, on par with the Vive Pro, which equates to a much less pronounced "screen door effect" (seeing the gridlines between pixels) than other HMDs. This is very nice for more detailed games like racing games or flight/space sims where you have to read a lot of small dials or text. Significantly lesser support for games and experiences. That said, just because an app doesn't explicitly state it works with WMR doesn't mean it won't work... but it might not. Controllers are pretty bad compared to the others. Tracking is also worse (uses inside-out tracking, so no sensors), but still significantly better than I thought it would be. This won't matter much if at all for seated or standing experiences; just for roomscale. The benefit is that you can do VR on the go with a gaming laptop. (At least a 1070 Max Q, though a full 1070 or 1080 is recommended.) The cable is significantly shorter than the others so, realistically, it's just a seated/standing experience. Roomscale is technically possible but severely limited. Also, there are specific cases (for example: archery games) where the controllers will end up out of view of the HMD's cameras, which will break tracking. Samsung's phone-based support is usually pretty decent, though I haven't needed it for the HMD yet.

Other Windows Mixed Reality HMDs:

The Lenovo Explorer gets some good reviews and sometimes goes on sale for as little as $170 with controllers. (Note: it can be found cheaper without controllers but you need controllers for most VR experiences, so...) It's important to note that the Lenovo Explorer (and all other WMR HMDs other than the the Samsung Odyssey) lacks IPD adjustment. IPD stands for interpupilary distance, which is the distance between your eyes. Everyone's eyes are a different distance apart but most WMR manufacturers didn't include this feature to keep costs down. However, using an HMD without the right IPD can cause nausea, blurriness, and headaches and can ruin your VR experience. I'd strongly recommend going with one that does. I haven't generally heard good things about any of the other WMR HMDs other than the Samsung Odyssey or the Lenovo Explorer. The others are relatively cheap but lack features, perform poorly, or both.

A note about VR graphics:

It really depends on the game. To avoid nausea, VR generally has to run at about 90 Hz, which can necessitate less comprehensive textures. However, people have done absolutely amazing things with VR to the point that you simply don't notice. A prime example of this is Lone Echo (Oculus only). The visuals are stunning, though I'd be remiss if I didn't mention the incredible story, method of teaching game mechanics, and the pure immersive feeling they pull off. Lone Echo is VR done right, and it feels like an AAA title. The Climb is another example of incredible visuals and reasonable immersion. That's the game currently making the rounds (again) of Reddit via this GIF. Skyrim VR is another example of impressive visuals in VR. Skyrim is somewhat dated, but yes; those incredible photorealistic immersion mods from desktop Skyrim work in VR and you can totally play Skyrim VR seated. All of that said... you are looking at a 1080p monitor magnified by relatively cheap optics no matter which rout you go. It's like looking at 1080p on a 70" screen from <4 feet away. You are going to notice the pixels, but you're also going to forget about it pretty quickly as you get distracted by the incredible experiences and other visuals. The only exception to this will be games with lots of detail like flight and space sims. Unfortunately, games like that really need higher res than VR can realistically provide right now. This may change with 20-series GPUs. For everything else, you'll probably mostly forget about the issue.

Roomscale:

Your roomscale abilities are going to be hampered by your small play area. Generally, the recommended minimum area is roughly 2x2.5 meters, if I remember correctly. Some roomscale games will refuse to launch with such a small area marked off. Others will launch, but you'll be unable to reach some things. Your play area will probably just barely suffice but you might need to "cheat" and mark off a slightly larger are than you actually have. The Vive and Rift both do Roomscale and seated/standing VR. WMR only does seated/standing VR reasonably well and is terrible at roomscale (due to the restricted cable length, not to mention poorer tracking) whenever you are able to make more room for it, and the controllers are much worse.

Cable lengths:

All VR HMD cables are a bit shorter than they could be. You can buy some extension cables, but some work and some don't... sometimes with no explicable reason. I've found that this HDMI cable and this USB extension cable work to extend the HDM for both the Vive and the Rift, and this USB extension cable works to extend the Rift cameras. If you decide to get both a Vive and a Rift, the extension cables I linked for the HMDs are able to go to the Vive's breakout box and then either the Vive or Rift can plug into that with success. The Samsung Odyssey does NOT work when plugged into the Vive's breakout box but I haven't yet tested the extension cables so it might work if the breakout box isn't present.

TL;DR:

At this point, my recommendation for first-time VR on a budget is the Oculus Rift. If you know you'll get into/stick with VR and can afford the Vive (so long as you can also afford the Delux Audio Strap), I'd recommend the Vive. The Samsung Odyssee is also a decent solution but at its price point I'd generally recommend the others unless the majority of your usage will be in highly-detailed simulators or similar games.

Yep I am using the 10 foot variant of each of these and they work great. The USB I have had for awhile as it came from my CV1 but the display port is new for the S.

​

Display Port Extender

USB 3.0 Extender

USB: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Both work just fine. HDMI cable is a little thick & stiff, but remember this is the section closest to your computer & doesn't get lifted/moved often (like the light cable that goes to your head).

In a forum post on Oculus quite some time ago cyber recommended the following pair which are in use at Oculus:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can confirm they work for me for a 10' extension on the HMD. As a bonus there is now a break away for the cables that is not my motherboard!

You have two options.

Micro USB to Type C adapter for use with any existing Micro USB cables you have such as the following:

TechMatte USB-C to Micro USB Adapter Convert Connector

Or purchase an actual certified USB Type C - Type A cable such as any in the following spreadsheet.

Certified Cables

I personally have the adapters above and cables from iOrange-E. They both work great. iOrange-E cables are a bit pricier than other brands though.

EDIT
Just found some deals while browsing other sites on actual cables

• Android Police - Choetech Deal Alert
  
• Android Police - iOrange-E Deal Alert

1. Photos is your all in one place. It is meant to simplify things like storage management. If you upload your photos, then you get all your photos, not just the ones on the device.
   If you want a device only gallery, there are a few in the Play Store that work pretty well. Piktures is a pretty polished alternative.
   
2. There is an app called Swipebubble that will mimic the old swipe to get into google now. However, if you want to keep the Google Now launcher, Google Now will always be on the left. I'd recommend picking up Nova Launcher, it is $0.99 right now and is well worth it. I'm not a fan of the hold to open google now either.
   
3. 2 pack Micro USB to Usb C adapters You get one for your wallet and one to stash somewhere else. These have Benson Leung's approval. According to Ampere, I am able to get a max of 1.4a using these. Not the greatest, but will be a lifesaver I'm sure.
   
   I just got mine 5x today and have been going through all the setup process. I did not know how slow my moto x 2013 had become until I started setting up the 5x.

I just got a couple micro to C adapters the other day (Benson Leung approved). Keep one in the check in, one in your carry-on, and one tucked in a hole cut into your forearm, just in case (they're a lot smaller than I expected).
http://amzn.com/B0151RKYBG

Basically every Android device made in the past 6 years supports this functionality. It is called "USB On-The-Go". You simply need a readily available adapter to change whatever charging port your phone has into a female USB Type A port.

Android itself has always natively supported USB devices such as keyboards, mice, USB storage devices (flash drives, DVD drives), USB audio devices, etc.. You can even plug in a USB hub and connect multiple devices at once; using your phone/tablet as a quasi-desktop computer if you wanted.

​

If your phone has Type-C: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Converts-Technology-Compatible/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+c+otg&qid=1558373604&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

If your Phone as Micro-B: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Adapter-Samsung-Controller-Android/dp/B00N9S9Z0G/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+micro+otg&qid=1558373637&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

They even make ones that allow you to keep charging your phone while having a device plugged into it: https://www.amazon.com/AuviPal-Micro-USB-Cable-Power/dp/B07FY9Z9GD/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=usb+micro+otg&qid=1558373675&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

I I just discovered they even make USB OTG hubs! https://www.amazon.com/Rocketek-Adapter-MacBook-Smartphones-Function/dp/B07MJ61TJV/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+otg+hub&qid=1558374272&s=gateway&sr=8-3

If you think you'll be using the case for several years, going with the front USB-C port rather than the USB-A port might be more useful in the long run.

In the mean time, you can plug USB-A devices into the rear ports or keep one of these cheap dongles handy nearby: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01COOQIKU/

From TribalInstincts YouTube page. "UPDATE! There is a USB-C port. It is not obvious at all however it exists and I've verified passthrough."
Bought this for $6 so I could be ready.
*Edit: Not in video, pinned in comments.

I use this one. https://www.amazon.com/Onvian-Splitter-Adapter-Charging-Syncing/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540401616&sr=1-6&keywords=usb+splitter Gets the job done. Don’t have the extra available ports with a hub though.

Because some of the were ugly as sin?

examples,

Early owlboy, Its not even centered on the white space.

Steam world Dig 2, D2? Is that the name? plus ugly white space

launch Lego worlds, no title, no art, just a boring screen cap.

If the games title wasnt in the URL could you even guess what this was?, or this?

Seriously, how much effort is it to take some previously made art and size it to the icon? Why bother creating lazy pieces in the first place?

OK so I heard the Quest has a cable that is USB-C male on both ends.


Which means to plug it into a PC you need a USB-C female to USB 3.0 male.


Like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079LYHNSR

Unfortunately this isn't going to help you now, but maybe someone else will find it useful. I keep one of these standards compliant adapters in my wallet at all times
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0151RKYBG

I think the danger comes from cables that force a dangerous amount of power to be pushed through, basically forcing it to charge at 3Amps with no regard for if it should be safely done or not. Here is a good article explaining the danger. I picked up a set of these adapters so I can still use my old MicroUSB cables and chargers that are abundant for normal trickle charging. Benson (The Googler who tests and reviews cables for safety) signed off on these adapters. Hope this helps!

Edit: Fixed the adapter link. :)

Besides the Panda Global adapter, you could try one of the following:

8bitdo G Bros. Wireless Adapter. Lets you use the original GC controller, but it'll be wireless so there'll be a slight increase in input delay. Not sure if it's noticeable but I doubt it, should be like any other wireless controller.

Get a USB C to USB A adapter and plug the original GC adapter in it. A bit more of a mess than the Panda Global adapter but this works just fine. You'd have to get some kind of stand like this if you want to have the Switch standing up, since the USB C adapter is gonna prevent you from using the Switch kickstand.

Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to 2 Female Adapter USB A Cord 2 Port Hub for Data Charging Syncing (Only one Port for Data) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_.vrZBbMPB5DAX

You would need active logic to pull that off, and you aren't going to do that with the voltages from a 3.5mm Jack.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B079LYHNSR/

You could use something like this. The headphones should show up as a separate audio device on the computer. However, this may but work if the computer is really locked down.

It just may be possible to get a USB 3DS Charger and a mini USB [converter] (http://www.amazon.com/USB-Female-Mini-Male-Adapter/dp/B0016RNX2I). Would that be any help?

? I use acoupler, a standard HDMI cable, and a usb 3.0 extension.

All passive, no powered adapter

Can't you just get a USB extension cord and use it with that?

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7S2FRE/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1484423659&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=usb+extension+cable&psc=1

Edit: It is prb so big because of the antennas or something. I think someone posted something like this about the xbox dongle a long time ago IIRC

I've read that certain motherboards work better than others for extensions without power. That being said, my Odyssey+ with an Asus H170 motherboard has worked fine with this 6ft HDMI extension and this 6ft USB extension.

Here's what I bought for USB and HDMI, and they work perfectly.

I'm on mobile and too lazy to edit links. Here ya go.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3zhDzbSZCTTRH

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RBhDzb3RJK5NV

I use these usb cables
Cable Matters USB to USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

And this hdmi
AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H91KE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

If you want to do 10ft extensions on the Rift S you need high quality cables, at least for the usb 3.0. I use Cables Matters usb and displayport cables to do 10ft on my Rift S. Nothing I have seen will allow the Rift S to do longer than 10 feet extensions.

The amazon basics 10ft usb cable would not work for me and I returned it and the cables matter one did. You also need a good usb port, in my case I needed to order an Inateck ktu3fr-4p usb card to have my Rift S work without and black screens or static passthrough problems.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Extension-Feet/dp/B00L1K1KDE/

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Extension-Black-Feet/dp/B00C7SA21U/

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/

Na klar! (Sure thing!)

Cable Matters USB extension https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lindy Displayport extension https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00GUSALS2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In case your Oculus Rift S Controller get stuck or the Passthrough doesn't work/shows snow, plug the cables out of the extension and in again. I had that once, probably because the cable didn't sit well and the USB-energy was cut briefly.

There are adapters

Usb c to micro usb

https://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG

Micro usb to usb c
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Nekteck-Connector-Resistor-Supported/dp/B017GSYCP2

I havent used either. Those links are from Google

I have an Asus 1060 6GB. It is working with this HDMI cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/

I'm also using this USB extender: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/

But, the USB extension would involve the motherboard more than the video card.

This works flawlessly for me. You'll need the adapter I linked as well

HDMI

USB

Adapter

Below are the cables I used, all worked flawless for me, however I bought the $80 5gbps USB hub card

approved 6ft usb extension

approved 6ft 4k HDMI

for sensor extensions

I use this DisplayPort and this USB extension without issue. If you need more than 6' you'll probably need active extensions which at least for DisplayPort don't come cheap.

I've been thinking about doing something like this.

As for the HDMI/USB extension, I have an Odyssey and have been using the 6 foot versions of these things with pretty great results so far:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

However, I've heard that going longer than something like 10 feet requires an active cable, but I don't know the specifics of it.

Here is another picture of the sensor itself:

http://imgur.com/VJgtyLj

Here is the gear that I used:

Light Stands (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/) - These things are great. Very easy to setup, very small base (can be expanded if you want, but the sensors are light and they seem very stable).

Mini Ball Heads (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M07M9D4) - Make for easier adjustment and greater tilting.

USB Cables (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ - 10 ft, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ - 6 ft) - Passive were fine for the two sensors at that length.

Very happy to get these off my desk and higher up. I need to get my third sensor setup as well because the angle that they are pointing makes it tough to detect at the back of my play space (it's about 6 x 9).

Overall very happy with the setup and all the advice I received from this board. This is a really great community.

Powered extensions can, Passive ones usually don't.

This limits how far you can extend it (usually max 6-10ft depending on your HMD & GPU).

I use these with no notable issues with my Dell Visor: 6ft. USB Ext. 6ft. HDMI Ext.

Gonna drop this in here in case someone wants to scour the posts to build a meta-thread on cables and accessories down the road.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01MQD4VYI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 <- This works converting DP -> HDMI for the Lenovo Explorer and the Samsung Odyssey

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01FSDIGYK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 <- this one did not. it wouldn't power up the display.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01LYLO6KS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 <- this HDMI coupler worked with a 6ft HDMI cable UNPOWERED, plugged into the HDMI on the video card (for the Explorer and Odyssey), however when used in conjunction with the working DP->HDMI adapter above, it needed to be powered (through the usb plug on the side) to be able to power up the HMD. I haven't tried longer runs of HDMI with it yet.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 <- This 3m/10ft USB 3.0 Extension cable worked with the Explorer and Odyssey.

HDMI + USB + Power + Cable Sleeve = Good extension cable.

I use this setup on the HMD end of the Linkbox with no issues.

I extend my Rift S with 10 ft cables and I've had no issues.

Displayport:

Cable Matters DisplayPort to DisplayPort Extension Cable (DP to DP Extension Cable) 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L1K1KDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.rJgDbQMDYQVF

USB:

Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable (USB 3.0 Extension Cable/USB 3 Extension Cable) in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pLNgDb3ZQ8QMR

Try these:



Displayport:

Cable Matters DisplayPort to DisplayPort Extension Cable (DP to DP Extension Cable) 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L1K1KDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.rJgDbQMDYQVF

USB:

Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable (USB 3.0 Extension Cable/USB 3 Extension Cable) in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pLNgDb3ZQ8QMR

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498758225&sr=8-1&keywords=cable+matters+usb+3.0

I tossed this on both of my sensors and works great.

I use these cables:

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U

AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H91KE

And these clips on my basement drop ceiling:
Outus 100 Pack Ceiling Hook for Drop Ceilings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J7HVOQU

Works well for me so far. Haven't been wrenching on my cables/video card like I was (on occasion) before purchasing them.

I bought a DisplayPort/HDMI adapter for my monitor, otherwise I just got a black screen on my Rift with an hourglass icon. I also bought two extension cables:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These should work https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use them with my lenovo explorer

I purchased;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009D378SW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(various dk2 users recommended passive (copper to copper) couplers for use with HDMI connectors, this is what I found on Amazon)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0194F1MY4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(this was recommended for users that don't have two hdmi outputs and use a TV for a monitor, etc. The 970gtx typically has a DisplayPort out. This adapter I believe can be used for either the rift or your external tv etc. My importance is for 4k Video with Audio. This is the go to cable. The 4k capability here is very important with the Rift. This cable is verified to work.)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(these or AmazonBasics seem to be the goto USB 3.0 extension cables, DK2/CV1 owners recommend AmazonBasics, but they are all sold out. These are the next best bet. I plan on using this to go through my wall to my Powered USB 3.0 Hubs).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0192LPK5M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(I bought this as its a reliable brand, 4 port usb POWERED hub, you are going to get better results with USB 3.0 when its powered and extended due to obvious cable length limitations.)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019OSCJ7K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(As the DisplayPort to HDMI was by Club3D, this cable is highly rated and reliably 4k Capable, I figured it was a no brainer).

Hope that helps, I feel confident, through my research I should be able to accomplish what I want. I know USB limits you to 15ft, but in my experience when you use powered USB hubs, you can get beyond that. And worst case scenario, you can convert the USB to Cat5 and go much further distances.

I figured, if something doesn't work, I always have use for adapters and hubs. Again my goal was just to get through my wall and have the PC in another room (less than 20foot overall, but I heard the Rift cables are 9ft?) So the Rift setup would end up being 9ft or so in my living room I think.

I think that's it. Mine is coming Saturday.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

USB 3.0:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Depends on how much I'm pushing. If it's just a bunch of songs <=100MB, FTP using Solid Browser + FTP Add-on. Anything larger I'd use the supplied cable with this adapter. Comes in 2 packs, keep one at home and one in my bag.

Check this out

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1wJwqv3rTNmORXz-XJsQaXK1dl8I91V4-eP_sfNVNzbA/edit?usp=sharing

These adapters are really popular:

http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-TechMatte%C2%AE-Convert-Connector-OnePlus/dp/B0151RKYBG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=sl1&tag=nexususb-20&linkId=522ca83d549142659fc08ddd2629c24e

I just got one through Project Fi. I got these adapters so I could keep using my existing cables, rather than add yet more cables. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151RKYBG

The TechMatte ones: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151RKYBG

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HZY20OS/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?qid=1450379263&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX118_SY170_QL70&keywords=pill+keychain

And

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0151RKYBG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1450379328&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=techmatte+usb+c&dpPl=1&dpID=41TvPsO6cFL&ref=plSrch

Sorry to get your hopes up for a single solution. There's room in the capsule for the adapter and a folded up $20 bill. American, don't know if other monies will fit.

How about using this Benson-approved adapter with your current USB cable?

I assume you're looking for a cable to connect an old USB Type-A port to the phone's Type-C port. I have a bunch of micro-usb cables lying around everywhere I might need to connect my phone to a computer, so I bought these adapters instead.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0191FRCAA

Kept one at my desk, tossed the other in my bag. They work fine, and they don't look like they'll break anytime soon.

I used this USB to type C adapter connect it to the charging port of the switch and your all good to go!!it reads everything perfectly no lag.


Anker USB-C to USB 3.1 Adapter,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01COOQIKU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

you could buy a usb c to usb a adapter i guess?

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Converts-Technology-Compatible/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_tr_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=6MHQ3WMEMGTY0VXXB3VG

You'll need a USB-C to USB-A adapter (I used this one from https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01COOQIKU/) to connect up the Vive n Chill to the top USB-C port of the Pimax. I also had to clip some plastic off of at the base of the connectors to give the adapter cable enough flex to bend out the way. If you're using the 3D printed strap adapter, you can unscrew the plastic housing of the Vive n Chill's power switch to pass it through the top strap, and use some cable ties to hold the USB-A connector and Vive n Chill power switch in place.

https://puu.sh/CJ5pz/199d629c48.jpg

https://puu.sh/CJ5pE/fe725f4674.jpg

https://puu.sh/CJ5pN/6618c866cd.jpg

You could give one of these a shot. I've used one to use a mouse on my android phone.

Yes, through a USB-C OTG cable.

Here's a link of one on sale through Amazon for $9.99. There are also many others available, prices vary.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01COOQIKU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1500366547&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=usb+c+otg+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=31u9EgABWmL&ref=plSrch

Why not get the Samsung Multi port Adapter? Cheaper than Apple.

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-EE-PW700BWEGUJ-Multiport-Adapter/dp/B01DN09RYI

Welcome. The Asus C302 is my sixth Chromebook. I decided to go with it over the Samsung Plus solely for the full size backspace key. (Didn't need stylus, but will sorta miss the 3:2 aspect ratio.) I only have Chrome OS at home with Chromeboxes and various Chromebooks for my family.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DN09RYI/
As for accessories I got the above for my Asus. It works fine, though it is made by Samsung. I recommend it or something like it if you want to be able to use USB flash drives and HDMI. Otherwise some sort of otg USB-A to USB-C adapter is needed because so many things still use USB-A.

Amazon Basics
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYXVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_doYzCb04S3B5Y

Inexpensive and great item so far.

An even cheaper solution would be to get an OTG adapter. AmazonBasics has it for 539 rupees but you should be able to find off brand ones for much less.

I've haven't been able to use mine for 30 seconds at a time before the screen goes black and I have to restart. I suspect it may have something to do with my USB 3 ports on my laptop. Also the USB port is on the other side from the DisplayPort meaning I have to stretch the cable to get it to fit which I doubt is helping (for reference my laptop is a MSI GS63 Stealth).

​

I have a USB C thunderbolt next to my DisplayPort so I ordered an adapter on Amazon. It should be here tomorrow so I'll post an update after I've tried it.

​

Edit: here's the link to the adapter if anyone else wants to try this out

I bought a USB-C to USB 3.1 adapter, it works perfectly. I think it was $6 on amazon.


This is it - https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=3PS19SDCM55G6&keywords=usb-c+to+usb+adapter&qid=1550622323&s=gateway&sprefix=usb-c+to&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

You can purchase a USB Type-C to USB 3.1 Female adapter. They're quite inexpensive on Amazon.

Something like:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549344669&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+c+usb+adapter

Listening to the Cobalt now. It's probably better if one has no experience with the Dragonfly Red. Since I haven't used the DFR, I'm a good candidate to have a better experience with the Cobalt.

The exterior containment (chassis?) and the logic board are not attached to each other, so there's some movement of the - chassis? - wiggling. Doesn't seem to affect anything in my use. The 3.5mm jack and USB port are both solid and have no give - unless you compare it to the wiggling chassis. While the concern over this wiggle seems overblown to me, I also understand why the concern is justifiable. It seems like a problem that could have been avoided by better or more exact measuring.

Getting low enough volume is an issue, because I have to carefully manually adjust the volume to slightly less than the first step on both Android and iOS. It's a minor concern. This is something I have to do with the (fake) Beyerdyanmic Xelento and Alclair Electro. Less so with the iSine 10, which I can tolerate one more step. Oddly enough, I can adjust the volume higher with the IMR R2 Aten. I also tried the Cobalt with Monoprice Monolith M1060 V1, and was able to get to a good volume for me. No clipping, but as a low volume listener, I'm not going to be pushing it with my gear.

I like the Cobalt well enough, but will probably sell it eventually. Is it worth the retail price? No. I probably couldn't tell it from a volume matched iPhone dongle (I'm not joking). Fortunately, my confirmation bias has set in, so I'll be using it for a bit. Currently happily streaming Tool's 10,000 Days from an iPhone through the Cobalt to the R2 Aten. Listened to Lateralus twice with the same combo. To Cobalt's credit, it doesn't get very warm, even in my pocket for all that time. Still, don't think I'll be recommending the Cobalt to friends I want to keep. Certainly not at retail price.

Oh, I also used this Amazon Basics USB-C to USB adapter and found no difference between that and the Dragontail except color, size, and shape. Seems to be an adequate alternative for me.

Bought the Onvian USB splitter cable from Amazon and it allows charging and Tesla cam at the same time.

I am using this splitter from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AVEnDb0G292RN

Just buy this...

Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to 2 Female Adapter USB A Cord 2 Port Hub Data Charging Syncing (Only one Port Data) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Hwq4BbQJ2E907

I think I found a solution for you:
Take this female A to male C adapter, plug it into this female C-to-C adapter, then plug one end of your C-to-C cable into it and the other end into this.

Don't get me started on compatibility or spec-compliance though, although for your intended USB-A use case, this should work!

If your pc does not have a USB-C port. You are going to need a USB-C to USB.

Maybe a product like this would help?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075LHXVNV/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1523302629&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=usb+c+to+usb&dpPl=1&dpID=410C18L4ixL&ref=plSrch

Hope this helps. It seems to me that you don’t know much with tech?

I'm using this, and it works without problems for me.

I have one of those non-name brand USB C hubs from Amazon that works fine (DesertWest brand ?!). However, I actually don't use it much anymore since I found these USB to USB-C adapters. They're small and I keep them on my USB plugs so it's no big deal and it doesn't take up space or add cords. Here is one example: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Basesailor-Compatible-Chargers-Standard/dp/B079LYHNSR/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+to+usb+c+adapter&qid=1554209975&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Also, these adapters don't get warm like the hub would. I was always skeptical about plugging power into a cheap hub anyway!

The Nexus 6P has a huge battery, I was never anywhere close to running out of juice during that 8-hour event with all the video I was shooting.

Just to be safe though, in situations like this were draining my phone is a possibility I just carry a really thin battery bank in my pocket. Also, the peace of mind let's me go nuts and use my phone as much as I want, which is nice.

I use this one, along with a tiny micro usb to USB-C adapter I stick in my wallet.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LRK8HJ8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151RKYBG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

I don't see any, if you currently have USB wall outlets I'd just buy some of the Benson approved adapters http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151RKYBG

yes, you can get 2 proper spec'd type C to MicroUSB adapter off amazon for $8. i keep one in my wallet and one in my bookbag for my 6P, i've seen people put them on keychains too.

Link: https://amzn.com/B0151RKYBG

As another commenter said, just use a USB-A to C cable, or an adapter like this one: https://amzn.com/B0151RKYBG

You're severely limiting your options by sticking only to batteries that have USB Type-C ports. Once you decide you're willing to use a tiny adapter or a different cable, it will blow your options wide open.

Here's a good battery for $21.99 currently: https://amzn.com/B00M8YXV1Q

Slightly older version that I use for $12.99: https://amzn.com/B005X1Y7I2

EDIT: OP should ignore my comment since I see that he/she now specified "no adapter", but I'll leave my comment here for anyone else.

Why can't you use an adapter like this?

Looks like the same quality, but whats wrong with just buying something like this and using whatever cable you'd normally use...

https://www.amazon.com/iXCC-Adapter-Charge-Supported-Devices/dp/B017TJN22C/ref=sr_1_3?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1520936095&sr=1-3&keywords=android+usb+c+otg

It's way cheaper and it's the same damn thing. (First thing I found on amazon for usb c otg cable.)

Like this?

iXCC USB Type C to USB 3.0 Type A Adapter, Charge and Sync Cable, On The Go (OTG Host Cable) for Type-C Supported Devices (6 Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017TJN22C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5iEtybYM86TR3

Adapter for charging $3 from amazon if you want to try that

The thing I would think of here is that the USB A to C cable you have is only meant for the USB A to be host (Computer) and USB C to be client (Phone) for transferring data between computer and phone or etc. and does not have the correct wiring to have USB C be the host and the linkbox to be client.

The way this works is there is a resistor placed the CC pin/wire on the USB-C connector and ground, essentially creating a tiny short, that tells whatever the USB-C is connected to, "Hey, you're the host of this connection". Since this cable is probably meant to charge phones etc. it does not have that resistor/short built in. That connection is what causes the usb-C side device to go ahead and power the +5v connection TO the other end of the cable, in this case, the USB-A (USB 3) end of the cable. Therefore, your linkbox, and in turn, Vive, is not currently getting any power via USB - which, yes, the Vive does have it's own power cable, but it surely also uses the USB 5v for some specific stuff on the Vive.

Getting a USB-C OTG adapter should solve your problems, you would use this and then plug the HTC Vive's original USB cable, coming out of the link box, in to this. https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Converts-Technology-Compatible/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511415846&sr=8-3&keywords=usb-c+otg

TL;DR Your cable is meant to charge phones/connect phones to PC, whatever is on the USB-C side is the "Accessory". Since you are using the USB-C plug on the PC side, the Vive is the "Host" and the PC is the "Accessory". USB cables only go "one way", in a sense. Getting a USB-C OTG adapter SHOULD work, but don't blame me if this doesn't work!

There is also a 7500mah zerolemon case for the 3/3t for around $45
but you could also buy a 20,000 mah battery pack fairly cheap
And if you want to connect to a flash drive one of these should work ($10) Anker USB-C to USB A Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_.r8-zbGRJG15T

They look decent, I have https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JHAnDb0FB4H75 because good experience with Anker

Anker USB-C to USB 3.1 Adapter, Converts USB-C Female into USB-A Female, Uses USB OTG Technology, Compatible with Samsung Galaxy Note 8, S8 S8+ S9, iPad Pro 2018, Nexus 6P 5X, LG V20 G5 and more https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PV2GDb5A81M9M

The cable you linked to is just an adapter. You need a USB OTG cable. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_DguXBbG6KG58E

Your cable will allow you to plug USB devices into a computer with a mini-c port, but for anything to work with a phone, you have to get something that specifically says it has USB OTG.

As for drivers, nearly any phone should support it. However, some phones might not work with controllers. My phone doesn't work with gamepads over USB, even though it does work with keyboards, mice, and flash drives. Most phones should work with gamepads though.

EDIT: It's possible this is incorrect based on the other response that all USB-C cables support OTG. I would suggest testing other USB devices with this cable. If it works with a keyboard, mouse, or flash drive, but not a gamepad, you might be out of luck. I can't find if your phone supports OTG.

Probably depends on the case, but the one that comes with the Google Pixel fits perfectly with the Spigen neo hybrid. http://i.imgur.com/YKIbhU3.png

I can't seem to find any exactly like it online though. Maybe one like this with the smaller C end casing?

> What works better, plugging in directly from camera to phone, or just the SD card in an adapter to phone?

I can't find a clear answer as to if Android will support PTP/MTP over USB-OTG. I know that connecting the SD card via an adapter will work, but I wouldn't be confident in saying connecting the camera directly would work.

> I'd rather not mess with the SD card coming in and out often if so, but, any suggestions?

I doubt that this would be the point of failure for your camera, but I certainly understand the concern.

> Will any mini-usb to USB-C cable work, then?

No, you specifically need an OTG cable as this has an extra pin that tells the phone to function as a master device. I would recommend picking up a standard USB-C to USB-A OTG Cable and then using a USB-A to Micro B cable from there if you wanted to try it.

Again, I think there's a good chance it won't work, but the USB-C OTG cable will work for you either way so you can try it with the camera and use an SD card adapter if it does not work.

Something like this should work:
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Adapter-SuperSpeed-MacBook-Samsung/dp/B00W98IJ0O#customerReviews

Keep in mind that space WILL be an issue on a laptop. You may not be able to fit two adapters next to each other, so you might be better off with a short extension adapter that has a smaller plug.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=psdc_3015402011_t2_B00W98IJ0O

No, but I got myself a USB-C to USB 3.0 dongle that works for all my flashdrives (FAT32 not NTFS)
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Converts-Technology-Compatible-ChromeBook/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478629810&sr=8-1&keywords=Anker+USB-C+to+USB+3.1+Adapter%2C+Converts+USB-C+Female+into+USB-A+Female%2C+Uses+USB+OTG+Technology%2C+Compatible+with+Nexus+5X+and+6P%2C+%282015%29+MacBook%2C+ChromeBook+Pixel+and+more

What kind of phone do you have?

If it is an Android, you can use a USB OTG cable Micro USB or USB C and plug in any mouse.

A cursor will show up on the screen and you can click and drag as if the cursor were your finger.

I'm pretty sure they work on anything with a USB port. I use them on my Chromebook sometimes. The only thing is, you have to give up the software on anything but a Windows machine (and maybe Mac? Don't know).

Edit: Just ordered this to see if it will work with my phone (Pixel).

For HDMI I have one of these and it's great: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MYUCWOK

For USB 3, I already owned a hub/ethernet dongle combo: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00PC0J1VC

To make it work with USB-C I bought a USB A -> USB C converter: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01COOQIKU

All of these work fine and are considerably cheaper than the Apple alternatives. Anker seem to be a good company when it comes to dongles.

I got a usb-c to usb 3.1 adapter for the headset and I dont have this problem any more. Was thinking maybe more available power on the usb-c slot would help, but its probably some other reason it actually works.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01COOQIKU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Get this usb-c dongle and connect it to your chromebook plus, it has a HDMI out port on it that works flawlessly ....i use it all the time to connect chromebook plus to television and for usb flash drives http://imgur.com/lUEGTSy ....no need for chromecast......https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-EE-PW700BWEGUJ-Tabpro-Multi-Port-Adapter/dp/B01DN09RYI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495852750&sr=8-1&keywords=samsung+galaxy+tabpro+s+adapter

The Samsung galaxy Tabpro S adapter has a HDMI port and connects PERFECTLY to the chromebook plus https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-EE-PW700BWEGUJ-Tabpro-Multi-Port-Adapter/dp/B01DN09RYI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496032746&sr=8-1&keywords=galaxy+tabpro+s+adapter

(Maybe it's your adapter not being truly compatible).... http://imgur.com/FWqxQZ9

Samsung MUF-32AB/AM FIT Plus 32GB - 200MB/s USB 3.1 Flash Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7SX9NS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_m4PwDbCE5QG8W

This guy.

I used to use a Kingston Datatraveler, but it died within about the first 2-3 weeks of ownership. This Samsung one has been going much longer.

If/when this one becomes insufficient then I'm going to flip to a TeslaUSB Raspberry Pi implementation.

I also bought one of these AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB 3.1 Gen1 Female Adapter Cable - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYXVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_SHUIlTuORLyN8 so I could plug the drive directly in to my phone and use this app https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.snailboat.teslacamreviewer to review the footage on my phone.

I then delete the videos I don't like/want. If I want to keep the video I either copy it to my phone, or upload it directly to my OneDrive, via the phone, so I can use a desktop app to fiddle with it.

There are different accessories I have bought and has made my experience better.

Cable management: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P7GJNP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Audio upgrade:

- Cheap (For just exploring around and watching videos) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006B486K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Expensive (Mainly for playing games and having a mic instead of the built in mic since it's buggy on the headset) - https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Flight-Detachable-Comfortable/dp/B077ZGRY9V/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3D960PSK6KV35&keywords=hyperx+cloud+flight&qid=1564661727&s=electronics&sprefix=hyperx+cloud+%2Celectronics%2C151&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExRkdWSElOUU5JREhTJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDYwNzUxMVZSTjVPU1pFS0Y1USZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTEwOTk2MVgyMkUwMjdWRlo1MyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

​

Controller grips:

These arrive today so I can't say if they are good or bad yet but I've only heard good - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VCF9P73/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

I've had these for awhile and they work great (if you have larger hands, these are perfect) - https://www.mamutvr.com/collections/upcoming/products/mamut-touch-grip

​

Headset power:

I've heard people have had tracking issues due to insufficient power from their usb ports, my RTX 2080 has a dedicated USB-Type C that I use to power my headset and haven't had any tracking issues - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGKYXVE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Rechargeable batteries for the controllers:

I've heard other people recommend different batteries but these have worked well for me - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IM3P8GS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can plug an USB C to USB A converter into the bottom of the switch and then plug it in.

I've done that with my Magic-NS adapter.

There are controllers that can plug in to the switch. You will probably need to get a usbc to usbc cable or usbc to microusb depending on the controller. I'm currently using a usbc to usbc for the 8bitdo snes grip controller. There is also the GameCube adapter that connects wired GameCube controllers. Lots of options more just up for preference. Is there a specific controller style you want. Like analog placements ECT?

Also if you already have a USB 2.0/3.0 you could get an adapter like this.

Will this or this work with the gamecube adapter I know adapters work but does this one?

An micro usb or usb c adapter to usb type A, male to female. Into an usb hub usually an 2.0 then plugged in with an mouse and keyboard.

Edit: usb c to a

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYXVE?keywords=usb+c+to+usb+type+a&qid=1536942351&sr=8-12&ref=mp_s_a_1_12

Or just skip the adapter and just use this. It seems to be an usb c.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MCTET84/ref=sspa_mw_detail_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thank you for bringing this up: this is exactly what I want to know, as I have found no actual reports in either of the official threads (here is the latest one as of now). Somebody reported terrible performance on a Macbook with Bootcamp and external GPU (AMD Radeon RX580 in a Black Magic box).

I will test this soon on an RTX 2070 Gigabyte Aorus Gaming Box connected to my Yoga 720-15 via a 2-lane Thunderbolt 3 port, which means there is as much bottlenecking as possible.

My cheap cable will be delivered today. If it works, I will try both the USB 3 port on my laptop, and my USB-C Virtual Link port on the eGPU itself. I will also try the officially endorsed Anker cable if this one does not work. I will post my tests here with the VR Mark if the setup works at all.

​

*UPDATE*

So I've tested Link with an eGPU (external graphics card / dock). It eventually worked for me. Here are the specs:

• Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 Aorus Gaming Box connected to a Lenovo Yoga 720-15 laptop via a 2-lane Thunderbolt 3 port with Windows 10. eGPU firmware is the latest one as of Nov 2019 with the TB bandwidth and fan spin fix.
  
• Oculus Quest was connected to the PC via AmazonBasics Double Braided Nylon USB Type-C to Type-A 3.1 Gen 1 Charger Cable | 10 feet. It worked. Will test the recommended Anker cable today as well. My guess is that it will work too.
  
• The following adapter was used to test the Virtual Link port on the GPU: AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB 3.1 Gen1 Female Adapter Cable - Black. It also worked.
  
  Here are my observations:
  
  

1. Both the onboard USB 3.1 Gen 1 port (left side) and the Virtual Link port on the external GPU (the one that's a USB-C port found on most RTX GPU's) worked fine, and showed very similar performance.
   
2. Oculus software should not run the beta version, and Oculus Quest should not have Developer mode on.
   
3. Performance is OK, but is obviously considerably lower (at least by 20 to 40%) than had the Quest been connected to a conventional desktop PC with the same specs. Without the headset on the same eGPU setup, VR Mark Orange Room scores about 6000 points. With the headset on and running the test in Oculus virtual desktop (not natively on the HMD displays, though) shows the lowest of 4700 points. Onboard GTX 1050 2GB without the headset would show about 2500 points. My Yoga 15 is downvolted a bit with TB kept on.
   
4. Image definitely looks more blurry than I'd want, but I will keep fiddling with Oculus/SteamVR settings. I have also noticed timewarp artifacts on some objects over the edges when turning my head very fast, but those are sometimes there, and sometimes are not. Not sure what's the main cause yet.
   
5. You probably do not want to have anything connected to the same USB 3 hub or controller as the one that you have you Quest connected to when you initially connect it to the PC. When I had peripherals connected to the same Corsair ST100 Headphones Stand, Quest would had kept showing a red "x" until I would disconnect the other devices first. When I reconnected those while using the headset, everything was working fine, though; that is until I re-connected the Quest again. Other stuff had to be disconnected first from that hub again then.
   
6. Performance was 5-10% lower than when running VR Mark Orange Room via the Oculus Virtual desktop than when just running it on an internal display.
   
7. Performance seems to be the same when running Link with either an external monitor connected to the eGPU or with an internal monitor of the laptop itself.
   
8. The following cable DID NOT WORK: TOPWE USB Type C Cable USB C Cable (2 Pack 10FT) Type C Charger USB 3.0 Date Sync 3A Fast Charging Cable. DO NOT BUY THIS CABLE to use with the Quest, unless otherwise confirmed for your setup.
   
   Conclusion:
   
   I knew what I was getting into, but using a Rift S with such setup instead of the Quest/Link is preferred due to TB3 limitations when feeding the signal back to the PC. Ideally, you would not use Oculus Quest or even a Rift S with an eGPU setup, but this is the setup I have, so here we are: it is confirmed to be working on a Windows machine and an RTX 2070 eGPU, as long as you have proper USB 3 ports. This depends on your laptop, though, hence Virtual Link port can save the day for some people.

I'm using a dongle + a short USB c cable. I keep the dongle attached to the camera, then the short cable to the drive, reduces port fatigue and cable fatigue. Haven't had any issues.

AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYXVE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

CreatePros USB Type C to USB 3.1... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K4TGGG9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

running a 2080 with display port extension 10 ft version
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B06Y46KJ3X?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title


and the amazon basics usbc to usb 3.1 plugged into the VR link port on the 2080 (usbc)
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01GGKYXVE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


with this brand plugged into the amazon basics
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you're using a controller with a standard USB plug (USB-A),which most USB controllers are, you'll need an adapter that's USB-A to USB-C adapter. The Switch Pro Controller for example uses a USB-C cable to connect as a wired controller, so you can use a USB-C to USB-C cable to connect it to the Switch in tabletop mode.

Edit: I'd actually be interested to see if something like this would work for using multiple USB wire controllers in table top mode.

The HP-A4's RCA plugs are for sending music out to speakers, not for sending your music into the amp. For android phones, you'll need a USB-B 2.0 to USB-A cable and a USB-A to USB-C adapter assuming you're using a phone with USB-C like Samsung S8, or Note8, or a USB-A to Micro-USB adapter if you're using a older/cheaper android phone like Samsung S7, J3, etc.

USB-B to USB-A cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK

USB-A to USB-C Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYYT0/

USB-A to Micro USB Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LN3LQKQ/

No get USB c to USB a it should work and could connect your headset through charging port of controller. AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB 3.1 Gen1 Female Adapter Cable - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYYT0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_guwVDb0W1SS9X

I'm not sure what was wrong with your previous adapter, but this one looks like the right type:
https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0/

The details indicate that it can be used with a USB type-A flash drive, keyboard, or mouse.

Using this one

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01GGKYYT0?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

But is that any different to the Anker one? You got a link?

Yes, plug in an adapter like this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGKYYT0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and route it under the Vive cable through the channel in the bottom, like this

https://ibb.co/epuHmn

You can use a usb splitter... super cheap

Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to 2 Female Adapter USB A Cord 2 Port Hub for Data Charging Syncing (Only one Port for Data) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JBujDbM8NJC3D

Sure it’s this one here. I can’t comment on if it reduces the charge speed on my nomad or not but everything works.

Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to 2 Female Adapter USB A Cord 2 Port Hub for Data Charging Syncing (Only one Port for Data) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2zoXBbXMDN15V

'Onvian USB Splitter Cable' is what I use for this exact combo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I have the Nomad wireless charging pad and it uses both of the front USB ports. I have a usb splitter (link below). Please keep in mind that I found since it draws more power using both USB ports that some drives wouldn’t work any longer because they drew too much power. I am using a 32gb Sandisk usb stick I got from Walmart with zero issues and been using it several months.

Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to 2 Female Adapter USB A Cord 2 Port Hub for Data Charging Syncing (Only one Port for Data) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xItQCbRVE5ZMZ

I used something like this for a while but 2019.8.5 was giving me issues with drive corruption...

So I ended up using a 12V to 2 USB power adapter and some USB extension cables to run power to the center console storage area with a couple of 3/8 inch holes drilled to feed the USB cables under the center console.

Get this.

* IT WORKS!!! **

I got my USB splitter from Amazon right now... ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KX4TKH6 ) removed my USB thumb drive for music and TeslaCam and plugged in the splitter. Then the pad (both USB ends) and the USB thumb drive back in. It worked.... So I removed the USB splitter and plugged in both USB ends for the NOMAD - it worked. So I feel like an idiot. But I also feel that with people using a USB thumb drive for TeslaCam - NOMAD should tell people they MUST use both USB cables.

I'm so glad I don't have to return this or deal with support to get this resolved.

I think it’s a power or throughput issue. The only time I’ve seen a USB-C hub that has more than one USB-C port always have two USB-C connectors back to the MacBook Pro.

Aluminum Thunderbolt 3 USB Type-C 2016/2017 MacBook Pro Hub Adapter Dongle with HDMI. 1-year Warranty. 40Gbps TB3, 4K HDMI Video Output, USB-C, microSD/SD Card Reader, 2x USB 3.0(Space Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZTQ895/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Kd2IAb8RA23ZD

USB C Hub, Nicetech NT-10 USB C hub 3.1 with Type C Charging Port, 40Gbs Thunderbolt 3, 4K HDMI Video Output, SD TF Card Readers, 2 USB 3.0 Ports for MacBook Pro 2015/2016, USB C hub now in Space Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076Z2C8T6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ue2IAbDW4P81P

I did find this one hub, which may work. Mixed or insufficient reviews:

USB C Hub,NIGI USB C Multiport Adapter 3.1 with Power Delivery Type C Charging Port ,Micro sd Card Reader,2 USB 3.0 Port,1 USB C Port for MacBook Pro 2015/2016, Google Chromebook 2016 - Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY96CWH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7e2IAb2QZV6XH

You could always try the reverse with this adapter, if the device doesn’t require too much power or speed:

USB C to USB Male Adapter, Acessorz Mini Hi-speed USB C Female (Type-C) to USB A Male (Type-A) Fast Charging Sync Connector Converter OTG Adapter for Laptop / Wall Car Charger with USB A Interface https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075LHXVNV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mh2IAbRB8Y075

Then there’s always the big guns:

Wavlink Aluminum USB 3.0 Universal Laptop Docking Station & Vertical USB-C Display Dock Dual Video Display HDMI/DVI/VGA, Gigabit Ethernet, 2 USB-C Ports, 4 USB 3.0 Ports, Audio Supports Windows & Mac https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7PP31E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6n2IAbTR3534X

Wavlink USB 3.0 & USB C Ultra HD/5K Universal Docking Station, Dual 4K Dual Video Monitor Display with 2xDisplay Port, 2xHDMI, Gigabit Ethernet, Audio out and Mic in,4 USB 3.0 Port, 2 Type C https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076BG9YVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ek2IAbQW6VHXF

StarTech.com TB3DKDPMAW Thunderbolt 3 Dock - 4K - Laptop Docking Station - Thunderbolt to USB-C / USB 3.0 / Gb Ethernet - Mac / Windows https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSEKBNM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Yk2IAbFJX2S8X

Huh. I've never looked for one, but you're right. I'm not coming up with anything, even on Amazon. That's saying a lot considering that I can buy a cat butt tissue holder on there.

Just to think outside the box, what about a USB-C to USB-A male adapter to convert the headphones to a USB-A connection, then use some sort of multi-port hub to connect everything.

I'm also pretty sure you can convert the USB-C monitor to plug into an HDMI port.

Yeah, it's a nightmare living the dongle life at the moment, but with USB-C becoming more common, hopefully, it won't be much longer.

USB C to USB Male Adapter, Acessorz Mini Hi-Speed USB C Female (Type-C) to USB A Male (Type-A) Fast Charging Sync Connector Converter OTG Adapter for Laptop/Wall Car Charger with USB A Interface https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075LHXVNV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rqh5Bb0A0VZPM

I was going to pick up something like this.

Just buy a USB-A to C converter and use a USB-C cable. That’s what I did.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075LHXVNV/

If you're printing the case yourself, it's perfect. I'd buy a small USB hub, and remove it's plastic housing.

You can plug the keyboard pcb into one of the USB ports on the hub. Plug the lights/whatever controller you need into another port, and then the cable where the hub would normally plug into the computer into a female-female that you mount in the case. Plug one of these into that, and you've got a USB c keyboard with lights.

Just plug this into a USB 2 hub

Generic USB A Female to Mini USB B 5 Pin Male Adapter (SF4814) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016RNX2I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KPGRBbTN3P14Z

Not sure about the webcam specs, check the app requirements. Or ask the lady to recommend something? You might need an adapter like this.

Every USB port and GPU will function differently. The USB wattage draw is high enough to drop the voltage some across the cable. Some USB ports start out at 5.2-5.3 volts and they work better. Most "front" USB 3.0 ports already have a 18-24 inch extension and don't perform as well. The 10ft cables below work perfectly for me on a high end x299 rig with the 5v USB 3.0 and 3.1 that tap off the 12v bus. On another rig but the same odyssey + Headset the sound cuts out.


These are the best for for me.
Cable Matters USB 3.0 Extension Cable in Blue 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/

If the 10 foot has problems for you the 3ft or 6ft might work. Try the Cable on Each USB port first. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/

AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/

Also the controllers need high voltage batteries. If you use really good Panasonic Oneloop Pro's even they can give problems. When those NiMh's get down to about 1.2-12.5 volts (Even with 60% charge left) The odyssey can trigger a low battery warning and switch to 60hz mode degrading performance. https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-BK-3HCCA4BA-eneloop-Pre-Charged-Rechargeable/dp/B00JHKSL28/

The way around this is to run 1.6V NiZn Rechargeable cells instead. https://www.amazon.com/2500mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries-Battery-Charger/dp/B00WTRSTAU/

Thank you!

Yes all devices were recognized as 3.0. Here are the extensions:

USB

HDMI

I've got a 980Ti and I just bought these two extenders, both work fine for me.

10ft usb

10ft hdmi

If you do go down that route you might have to try several different cables to get them to work it seems to be specific to people's Motherboard and GPU. For me, 980ti, this USB 3.0, HDMI and HDMI Repeater worked. Regardless of what you choose definitely pick up a HDMI Repeater or a HDMI to DVI dongle, it seems to be the key factor to get extensions to work for a bunch of peeps.

These work fine for me, I use them on my breakout box

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00C7S1B4W/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004VR9VXK/

I used these and it worked:

DP: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L1K1G74?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

USB 3.0: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7S2FRE?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I got 6 ft extension, but someone posted that same cables 10ft extension worked as well.

With 10ft extension cables and 15ft from Rift you'll get your 25ft

I use the Cable Matters DP and USB cablse. Sorry my memory failed me, actually I just got the 1.8m (6 feet) it seems. I forgot I got a shorter one for the Rift S (had much longer 15' HDMI ones for cv1). The included cable on the Rift S being longer made this all I needed to reach all parts of my play space. I really just like to have something between the headset and my video card ports, and an easy access to unplug/replug right next to the couch, so these work perfect for me.

I did a quick search and found some folks talking about using at least 10' extension and maybe up to 5m, but couldn't find a link to a specific cable (I only looked for about 1 minute, I'm sure if you dust off your Google-fu you can find it if you really need one that long, I would imagine such a cable would include an active repeater and perhaps get kinda pricey).

Here is that thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/beloox/oculus_rift_s_display_port_extension/

And here are the one's I am using with no issues:

6' (1.8m) DP cable (Cable Matters):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L1K1G74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

6' USB cable (Cable Matters):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I extended mine 6 feet and the USB with no issues. Here are the cables I used: Display port extension cable and USB 3.0 extension cable . Not 20 feet, but at least you know it can be done.

Yep. I use these (6 foot):

Display Port

USB

It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!


Here is link number 1 - Previous text "usb"



----
^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete

Might be the USB extension? I'm using the same 6FT HDMI cable with my Dell and have had no problems. After doing some research, I paired it with this guy here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Haven't had any problems with audio cutouts or the display not initializing. Should be easy enough to test - just try the HDMI extension without the USB extension and see if it works.

I doubt that, and it probably also depends on whether you have a launch Rift S or a newer model. I have both and my USB 3.0 cable matters 6 foot cables (I have 3, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) which work on my launch Rift S aren't working for my new Rift S (manufactured August 2019). My displayport extension cable however works fine on both of my Rift S units: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z05JMKO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I did buy these two, but I haven't validated them yet. I hope to try them later tonight.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ordered both of these, based on Tyriel Wood's review of them, and said they're working great on his Ody+, and mine has too. No issues.

i am using an evga gtx 980 with this cable:

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B013ICN940/ref=pe_386171_51767411_TE_dp_1

as a usb extension i use this cable:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=pe_386171_51767411_TE_dp_2

this combination never dropped out on me or gave me any problems. having a longer cable makes the experience way better.

Because it won't work. You have to have an HDMI repeater, which generally costs $10-15. They also have cable sleeving on them which is about $7-8.

I was looking into making one but for everything you see it's will cost about $35-40 for a 10' extension plus having to deal with sleeving cables. I don't think $20 extra is too bad a deal to have everything assembled and sent to your door. Especially if you hate cable sleeving like me.

You could always just use cable ties and it'd make it about $30 and a little easier, but if you don't like ugly cables the sleeving is the way to go.

For anyone wondering here's my list of items needed to make one (please note I have not personally tested any of these cables. These are recommendations from another user (I think OP)):

COWEEN HDMI Repeater 4K UHD HDMI Female to Female HDMI Amplifier 40' HDMI Extender Up to 40 Meters Lossless Transmission for Oculus Rift and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Yc2GAbWY6JQX0

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Vd2GAbJSS05X4

Monoprice Active Select Series High-Speed HDMI Cable 10 Feet with RedMere Technology Supports Ethernet, 3D, 4K and Audio Return - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D5ETHE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gf2GAbFA4REA2

Techflex PTN0.50BK25 Flexo PET General Purpose 1/2-inch Braided Cable Sleeve, Black - 25 Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UHQNUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Tf2GAbBTGYGTT

These were the ones I found recommended somewhere else that work fine in my setup no problem.

DisplayPort

USB

I just picked received my hdmi and usb 3 extender cables I ordered from amazon. both are 10 ft and I've had no issues with them so far. The two together are heaver than the single cable that Oculus makes, but since thats not the part hanging from my head, it shouldn't be an issue.

These are the cables I use:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_YGxdxbPW3R45Z http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Extension-Ethernet/dp/B00JJ517VI?ie=UTF8&keywords=2m%20HDMI%20EXTENSION%20Cable%20Male%20to%20Female%20v1.4%203D%20High%20Speed%20With%20Ethernet%20BLACK&qid=1460783173&ref_=sr_1_fkmr3_3&sr=8-3-fkmr3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_WTxdxbG2WKX4D http://www.amazon.com/Techflex-Split-Sleeving-Ft-Black/dp/B007VSTFMI?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Both of these work

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00DMFB5OK?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

I just picked up a Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 pack the other day. This one is different than the Cable Matters cables that you tested. Wasn't terribly expensive either, I only paid $15 for 2 6-ft cables.

While I haven't tried plugging in the headset to the extension, it does work with the sensor just fine. I've been using my Rift since the cables arrived without any issues. I'll probably even use the second cable for the Touch sensor as well.

OK.. so I'm not sure how far you want to go. I got these two items >>

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Extension-Ethernet/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467169650&sr=8-1&keywords=Cable+Matters+2-Pack+High+Speed+HDMI+Extension+Cable+with+Ethernet++++++++++++10+Feet+-+3D+and+4K+Resolution+Ready
and
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467169808&sr=8-1&keywords=Cable+Matters+SuperSpeed+USB+3.0+++++++++++++Type+A+Male+to+Female+Extension+Cable+in+Black+10+Feet

and that gets me an additional 10 feet, which is cool, and I never have any problems. I DID initially, but I rolled back the USB3 Inateck Windows 10 driver, and it's been really stable since then. Not even one hiccup. Good luck to you. Hope this helps.

For anyone who bought the Lenovo Explorer MVR and need extension cable ideas. I have tested a HDMI and USB 3.0 cable that works.

AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01D5H91KE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00C7SA21U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Man, you have no idea how well it gets rid of that line of sight issue. I can lay prone and shoot! People were getting mad at me in multiplayer for it, lol.

It's super easy and will only cost you $40~ - here's what I used with mine:

• Mounts (2 pack)
  
• Cable Hooks
  
• 10 Foot USB 3.0 Extension
  
  The sensor cords are only 8 feet, so chances are you'll need to extend both. Use USB 3.0 for the first 2 sensors, and USB 2.0 if you get a 3rd.

Sorry I missed you earlier, here's what I used to get the tower discretely away in the corner and set up the triple monitor setup:

• 10' 3.5mm to RCA cable (your extension cord may need to vary depending on what you use for speakers)
  
  
• 4x usb M/F extension cord 10' (These are for plugging in my keyboard, mouse, phone connection, and a spare for usb sticks without having to plug into the tower)
  
  
• 3x hdmi cable 10' (for plugging in the monitors, be sure to check your connection options as your graphics card / cards may need a different connection)
  
  
• Vivo Triple Monitor Mount ( This is the trickiest part. For me to mount 3 heavy 27" BenQ monitors, this was a relatively inexpensive option. The stand is well built, and looks and moves well, but the weight of the monitors is difficult to mount without any sagging. Also, 27" is the absolute max size this mount will work for, and even then my viewing angles are a bit lacking. I would recommend Locktek's EXCELLENT mounts for neutralizing this issue, but they are vastly more expensive. Weight wont be an issue though. For me, the issue was not a big deal so I didn't splurge on a pricier mount.
  
  
• Cable management sleeve (so that you can tuck away all those cords neatly)
  
  After that, you can have all peripherals at your fingertips and tuck the tower away into a corner. If your space is carpeted (and even if its not), be sure to keep the tower slightly elevated off the ground to allow for good air circulation.
  
  Definitely not dogma but that's what I've been using, and it works well thus far. Be sure not to skimp on the length of your cords, when your hiding it it will need to snake around a bit under the desk.
  
  Hope that helps!
  
  

I am using this HDMI
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GBBSZFE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HIEtzb056BQ0Y

And this usb and it works great https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DJEtzbMCAYRC0

No idea about Amazon.

You may need some USB extensions, depending on how you plan to run stuff, these are known to work:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00DMFFL2W?th=1

I’m using this on my HP headset and it works perfectly. Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_79NRAbYCMJXDN

Thanks man, the only problem with that link is the 1.8m is not available however I found this link
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01LNAAEJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LK40DbP9NAMR0
Which I will try in combination with this
www.amazon.de/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mN40Db044AD1B
And see how it goes :)

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1505231414&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+extension+cable&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_five_browse-bin%3A7800928011

I have been using https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=psdc_464394_t2_B00HSS9KJY with my sensor, and it works flawlessly, i have an extra one as well, so i could try to double extend if you want me to test with that cable.

Edited: oops, wrong cable

> I'm gonna need extensions.

I had good luck with 10 foot for each via Amazon.

• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > Overall, setup was 9/10, but I'm giving it 5/10 because of the issues I had.
  
  Similar here. I can see how it's supposed to be very smooth and quick, and I think re-establishing setup (if I were portable) would be very quick, but I had a number of issues that prolonged things.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > This does require you to have a lit room
  
  This was disconcerting for me as well as preventing me from using VR sometimes since my VR area borders the den/living room and the breakfast nook and my wife often vetoed the turning up of all the lights (in the evenings).
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > Controller tracking 8/10
  
  I'd only give them 6/10. It's highly dependent on tolerance, body type, play style, and which game / experience you're using. My thoughts: https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/7qlhde/samsung_odyssey_owners_are_you_happy/dsq5nh5/
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > You will notice some black smear
  
  I started noticing more of it as I dug back through my backlog of games and apps. The Quake II SteamVR environment, Allummette (the night scenes), and the large theater room in BigScreen are three places that had pretty awful black smear that I remember. In other places it was not noticeable though.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > Colors are also very vibrant
  
  I agree, I thought the color pop was excellent and fun in the Odyssey, and simply made me want to try a lot of different things to see what they looked like.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > I think it's a tad bigger at least for me
  
  Interesting, my buddy and I both thought his Vive with DAS and 6mm pad had the slight edge in terms of FOV, as well as amount of pupil swim, and there was something subtley not quite as impressive about either the binocular overlap or just the "closeness" of images in the Odyssey, but it was still very good and the great contrast and higher resolution made up for it.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > The forehead pad and back pad are nice and comfortable with most of the weight resting on the forehead and off of the nose/cheek area.
  
  Eventually that forehead pad really started to dig into my forehead. I had a couple sessions that gave me real pain. Here was my solution: https://imgur.com/a/a9lqJ
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > The damn nose flaps.
  
  I totally agree! These would block about 70% of my nasal airflow! But there is an easy fix -- fold them back in behind the lenses. Works great, stays in place, and is easily reversible.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > They are comfortable and easy to position.
  
  I found them a bit hard to get a good seal with. The DAS seems more articulatable which helps get a better on-ear seal which gives it the potential for a bit more perceived bass and therefore a bit more balanced frequency response. But neither holds up against my Audio-Technica ATH-M50s. I'm hopeful the Vive Pro audio addresses that a little more.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > If you are looking for a portable VR experience with a laptop or like to travel and show others VR without having to set up lighthouses or cameras
  
  Yep, that is definitely the big benefit of the Odyssey. It can't be beat for that type of use case. It was kind of lost on me (no laptop, single permanent VR space at home), and I eventually decided due to the substandard controllers and controller tracking that it was worth more turned back into $486 so I returned it after 8 weeks due to Microsoft's very generous holiday return policy. I knew I'd miss it (certain aspects of it) and I do. If I were more into sims and had a driving setup it would have been a tougher call by far.
  
  I do hope they pull together a version with more cameras that can handle the controllers getting close to the cameras and operate in lower light. Best would be some way to give the controllers actual inside-out tracking of their own using their own cameras but that might require a prohibitively large amount of information sent over Bluetooth (BT 5.0?) to the CPU for the Machine Vision algorithm.

I needed the exact same thing. This is what I went with from amazon. They work great. One is the set of the tripods and the other is the mini ball head you will need for each lighthouse with the tripod.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/

I would also recommend extending the triple cable an extra 10 feet. You won't be able to keep the cable and HMD in the box after adding the cables, but it doesn't get tangled as easy and just works better when having other people try it for the first time.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FT9VW0O/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008JHB14/

I have a very similar setup for my Rift and I have had very few problems with it in the 6 months or so that I've had it. I will recommend that you take your time when doing the actual setup. I spent close to an hour finetuning the positioning of the sensors before I got them to track nearly perfect.

This is the USB extension cable that I've been using for both sensors. I have mine plugged into USB 2.0 ports on my MOBO and I've had zero issues thus far.

EDIT: I'll also note that I have both sensors mounted upside down on the celing. I just used the stand that they came with and some velcro.

I bought the following to extend my Odyssey 10' and they are working very well

HDMI extension
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB 3.0 extension
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are what I use to extend my headset cables.

I'm using these....

HMDI

USB

Then for the sake of asthetics, I wrapped them both in this to keep the wires together when routing.

10 foot for each, which has worked for me, but 15 might give a bit more flexibility depending on the location of your PC. But part of the benefit of the hanging cables is that as long as your cable can reach diagonally to the opposite corner of your space, (front to back, left to right, and top to bottom. Diagonally in 3 dimensions), then it should be able to reach anywhere in your space. The stock Rift cable can reach diagonally across my space, and my extension cables are just getting my cable to its "start" position in the corner.

Keep in mind these cables don't have a ton of strength, so I recommend getting a hefty command strip hook to statically fix your wire near the ceiling to take a lot of the weight, then the hook cables can split the weight from there as it droops towards your head naturally.

This turned into a bit of a novel but I hope my "lessons learned" are helpful haha

A few other things:

As others have mentioned, the Odyssey's tracking relies on the room having enough light for the cameras to see.

While the Vive works great in total darkness, you have to remember to turn on the lights at night to make the Odyssey track.

And one other thing I should mention is that the cable is a bit short on the Odyssey, I had to buy some extension cables from Amazon to be comfortable I wouldn't accidentally yank out or break the connectors.

I went with these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/

Just as another datapoint. I'm using a ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VIII GENE LGA 1151 Intel Z170 mobo. I have a Cable Matters 10ft Passive USB3 extension cable which is similar to the one you tested and although you had limited success this worked fine for the camera sensor on all my rear ports. My front ports aren't currently hooked up to check.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U

I've used these with my Ride S and they work fine. Keep in mind it's about more than just you cables. It has to do with your USB ports too. I've found my IXT motherboards tend to work better than my ATX boards. I think the shorter traces of ITX make for better signal integrity.

So the same cable my work for some people and not for others. Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7SA21U?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

https://www.amazon.com/your-orders/pop?packageId=1&ref=ppx_yo2_mob_b_pop&orderId=112-5223028-2859402&lineItemId=kkkkmqkunpmvony&shipmentId=Dsp458cSP

> USB - Eleven of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A2HI77ZYQGGRR3&psc=1

I think you might struggle with daisy chaning these USB 3.0 extensions. Apparently the maximum length for passive USB 3.0 cables should be around 3 meters otherwise you'll start encountering poor signal.

I have 3 sensors, one plugged in directly, another via a short USB 3.0 ext, the third using the USB 2.0 ext that comes with the extra sensor from Oculus. All seems to work great. I'd probably start with 3 sensors and only add the 4th if you really need it.

I use this setup without any issues:

HDMI cable extenstion

USB Cable extension of the rift

USB Cable extension for the cameras

Here are the links for all the extras I bought to set it up.

• Wall mount
  
  
• Wall Mounts 2-pack
  
  
• TV Mount
  
  
• 10ft HDMI for headset extension
  
  
• HDMI Female Connectors
  
  
• 6ft USB 3.0 cable extensions
  
  
• 10ft USB 3.0 extension (for headset extension.
  
  (the 16 ft extension is the one that came when I ordered my oculus.)
  

Have a look at this video ! In about 5minutes he explains that you want a high quality USB 3.0 cable.

Try this cable in 10ft length.

Carabiners are useful. Clip one to a back belt loop on a pair of jeans/etc, then loop the cable through it. It goes a long way towards keeping the cable out of the way of your feet. It also cuts down on the amount of "tugging" you feel on your head as you pull the cable along behind you, which makes it feel a little less immersion-breaking.

> Do I need to get some extension cables to allow more freedom of movement further away from my PC? If so, which ones?

I think so, assuming you have the play space. Oculus has some recommended cables. I bought these 10ft extensions on Amazon and they have served me well with quite a few different headsets with no issues - HDMI and USB

get yourself some VR Covers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0779VGT9W
---
a USB extension cable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
---
an HDMI extension cable (you only need one, but you can't beat the deal)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/
---
a pack of velcro ties for the cables
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O9VKVFK/
---
bluetooth 4.0 adapter if you don't have one (or don't have a good one) and plug into a USB 2.0 port if possible. put it on the end of any USB extension cable will help ensure a direct line of sight to you from the adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/
---
and finally, if your USB ports fail the WMR test, get this card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011LZY20G/

My EVGA GTX 980Ti works just fine on the 6 ft cables. I've not seen too many complaints about EVGA cards so I'm speculating they might be pushing out a slightly stronger signal that doesn't degrade over those distances with good quality cables.

I also bought 10 ft ones as well and they worked fine. I dropped back to 6 ft because I didn't need that much length.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ519KC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

They don't seem to have 10ft HDMI cables anymore which is odd.

The same one you linked here, the 10ft
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/

I've extended all my sensors and my headset to give me full use of my computer room using only passive. Sounds like you've already got this to work but here's what I use in case anyone else wants to know. Cost me in total, like $45 and everything works perfectly.

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 6 Feet (Latest Standard)

Cable Matters (2 Pack) Gold-Plated High Speed HDMI Female Coupler 3D & 4K Resolution-Ready

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Those extensions are perfect on my setup, looking at my order I actually got the 10 feet cables.

For anyone interested:

Sleeve: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VSTFMI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gives me 10 feet of breathing room so I can fasten it to the desk leg, reducing the risk to my motherboard and GPU

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=ya_st_dp_summary

I guess so, sure; it just seems like it'd give you more variety in gameplay in the future.

If you ever want to try it out, I personally just ordered this extension cable after numerous recommendations from the /r/oculus community for like $18 CAD. :)

Wanted to make a quick post - using the Anker recommended cable (3M).
I tried the AmazonBasics USB 3.0 Extension Cable along with Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable - Both 3M - neither worked.


Finally, I tried CableCreation Active USB Extension Cable (Long 16.4 FT) - THIS WORKS, and it's way longer than the others.

The only one that's really officially supported is this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZIPYPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cheap and works with some 10' extension cables including this one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This gives you 20 feet. Done deal

These are the exact cables I used to extend both my rifts. Both are lossless quality; no noise, snow, nothing.

USB Extension

HDM Extension

Also in case you are interested, these are the cables I used to extend my sensor cables. Entire system works flawlessly. Some people have had to plug one or two of the sensors into a USB2.0 slot instead of 3.0 to get perfect tracked. I just split the 3.0's up between several different card. A good rule of thumb is two inputs per card. So i used the MOBO slots, the top panel slots, and my PCI-E USB slots to ensure each component was receiving sufficient power.

Hope this helps. Best of luck and enjoy (:

I have a 980 as well. I've been using these 10 ft cables for a few months now and not had any problems:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah! I got this one. There are more stylish ones but this was a good price and has worked flawlessly for me so far!

If you have any old micro USB cables around, go to Amazon and order this:
http://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG

They are tiny and turn commonly available cables into ones that can charge your 5X -- not at the very highest rate but still totally usable.

Good to have, since USB-C is still not very common in many places.

No, but USB-C != USB 3.1. Which means if you are currently using USB OTG for your devices that connect to your phone, getting a USB C to otg adapter like this would work: http://www.amazon.com/Type-C-Cable-quality-Female-Black/dp/B00SHM4HS4 In your post, you mentioned that your most of your devices charge via USB 2.0 (I assume you mean USB micro). In that case, a simple adapter should be able to convert your USB micro charger to USB C (although quick charge would depend on what phone you got): http://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG

Sorry for reviving an old thread, but I found this thread because I was looking up why my Corsair Voyager Go with a Micro-USB-to-USB-C Converter wouldn't work. I am reading comments below where you're able to use an OTG cable with a regular flash drive... I'm just curious why my pairing wouldn't. Any insight would be greatly educational, so thank you in advance!

huh. I'm having exactly the same problem. Started a few weeks ago after I used an A-C adapter. Won't charge from any native USB-C source. I need to call Google one of these days, I haven't bothered yet.

N6P.
I've got a weird issue.
I bought this micro->C adapter and this portable battery at the same time. Plugged in the C-C cord, charged my phone perfectly. I plug in the micro->C adaptor on a micro cord, charges fine. I plugged into my factory charger...nothing. This elicited a nice "wtf?" moment. But I was going out of town, so I used the micro cord and the adapter, worked fine during the trip.

Got home. Factory charger still isn't working. I flip the C-C cord around, and the charging icon quickly flips between lightning bolt and nothing. Another "WTF?" moment.
Well, maybe the cord went bad or something. Grab this charger and a new C-C cord. New charger and new cord doesn't charge at all. New cord on factory charger doesn't charge at all. Old cord on new charger doesn't charge at all.

Take it out to the car. 2.4A type C, no charging at all.

3 different USB-A chargers charge it fine with the micro-C adapter on several different A-micro cords, including the new Anker charger. The factory A-C cord does work fine.

What
The
Fuck
?

Did the micro->C adapter break something? And if so, why does the phone still charge fine when using it? Anything that would be rapid charging (>2.1A) fails completely. Anything not rapid charging works fine. RMA time?

http://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457249252&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=techmate+usb-c

If you're looking for an adapter to use old micro-usb cables with a 5x, these are 2 for $10 and are "Benson approved" http://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Upgraded-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG

If you're looking for the opposite adapter, I'm not sure they exist.

As a 6P owner, I'ma little biased but all that put aside, I came from a Note 3 so I had the same gripes as you: No expandable storage, no removable battery, etc...Here my solutions to those problems. For the most part the 6P battery will get me through a day of heavy use pretty easily (listening to spotify, watching videos, texting, emailing and whatnot). Just in case I always carry around a portable power bank. As for expandable storage, I would like to point out with Google's photo app, you receive unlimted storage for high quality photos, however, don't quote me on this, but at some point I believe past 1080P it starts to eat into a 10GB limit. I advise using a USB stick for external storage, it's small, portable, and overall very convenient. Best of luck making your decision! It's a tough one! If you have any questions about the 6P just let me know!

Edit: If you are strictly looking just to offload files to get more storage and not transfer them to a computer via usb, this Dongle gives you more storage and it costs less than the previous link. If you do want to move pictures and videos, you can always buy an adapter.

Thanks for the replies... So, you're saying, if I buy a Mini-B adapter like this and plug it into the Harmony remote, then plug in a USB bluetooth adapter like the IOGEAR Bluetooth 4.0 USB Micro Adapter (GBU521), the remote will power the adapter and allow me to pair with it on my PC?

I'm not sure that'll work for two reasons...

1. I don't think the Harmony Remote's USB controller is capable of powering Bluetooth dongle.
   
   
2. I don't think the Harmony Remote's USB controller is capable of being a USB Host.
   
   
3. I am a generally skeptical person.
   
   Thoughts?

You don't have to spend $500 on optical cables like that guy.

I extended an extra 10ft (for 25ft total) after the breakout box by spending $27 shipped - and I have a spare HDMI extender left:

www.amazon.com/SMAKN®-Extension-Foscam-Agasio-Wireless/dp/B00V5QY53Q

www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B008219UMI

www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Extension-Ethernet/dp/B00JJ517VI

I also recommend using a carabiner clip on your back belt loop to keep the cable away from your arms.

I use a USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable and plug in the unifying receiver in to it that way I can move it close to where I sit and I have no problems. Like this https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B008219UMI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1520717139&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+extension+cable&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_five_browse-bin%3A7800928011

Im waiting on a Technoskin carrying bag with compartments for charger and several games/sd cards.

I have this 10ft long usb extension cable that makes it so I dont have to hug a wall.

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008219UMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oclkybHBZW5WB

I use these for my two front sensors that I’ve wall mounted without any issues:

Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable (USB 3.0 Extension Cable / USB 3 Extension Cable) in Blue 10 Feet - Available 3FT - 10FT in Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008219UMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TvycBbGJW4E8C

For my rear sensor, I bought the sensor through Best Buy and it came with a USB extension cable. I wasn’t sure if the extension was USB 3 or not so I just made sure I pulled it into a USB 2

Hope this helps!

So I ordered these two cables:

HDMI
and
USB

Turns out the 10 foot USB does not work on the Samsung Odyssey for me. I tried it in several USB ports and I keep getting the message to connect my headset. I tried it with a simple USB key and that worked.

Returning the 10 foot USB and getting the 6 foot instead.

The HDMI works perfectly.

I used:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


and:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


and have had great success.

I've already managed it 20 feet with one of these I had lying around I had originally used with my CV1:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And a USBC to A cable I had but not sure the source.

This really is a case of experimenting and luck.

I've been using this hdmi cable without issue since May with my Asus strix 970

also using this usb extension

Get one of these or one of these. Then you can drill a hole in the ashtray, glove box, storage cubby, center console etc. to run the cable.

I got my headset used for $299 in like new condition. was used once for a demo
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073X8N1YW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

3rd Sensor plugged into an USB 2.0 port on computer
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727WDPX6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rechargeable AA batteries and charger
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JHKSL1O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB Expansion card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Headset and touch wall mount
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0781G75B5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wall Mount used for rear left sensor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XR8DL7T/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cable management system
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P7GJNP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mount clip used for front left sensor on shelf
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MG4D3O5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI extension for headset, only one used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ519KC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2 pack 6 feet USB 3.0 extension cables, one used for front right sensor and one used for headset
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sensor ceiling mount used for front right sensor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IDCDZY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3 foot usb 3.0 extension used for front left senor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S1B4W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cleaning Cloths
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NR9S3EQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oculus Rift Facial Interface & Foam Replacement Basic Set
https://vrcover.com/product/oculus-rift-facial-interface-foam-replacement-basic-set/

Photo of final setup
https://ibb.co/exkWXx

I have had no issues at all, this setup working very well for me.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7S2FRE/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1485322357&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=usb+extension+cable&psc=1

Power
Power
Power
Power

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00C7S2FRE and https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01KRLQG2M

Yeah I just used this I believe: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7S2FRE/

These 2 work well on my setup:

​

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-Mini-HDMI-HDMI-Cable/dp/B014I8UEGY/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2TRTYRGQM27PR&keywords=amazon+basics+6ft+hdmi+cable&qid=1556900194&s=gateway&sprefix=amazon+basics+6ft+hdmi%2Caps%2C222&sr=8-4

​

​

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Extension-Black-Feet/dp/B00C7S2FRE/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=cable+matters+6ft+usb+3+cable&qid=1556900240&s=gateway&sr=8-6

You can get HDMI and USB 3.0 cable extensions that review well to work with WMR headsets, unless it's the overall weight you're worried about, in which case some hang it from the ceiling in retractable pulley system.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7S2FRE/

I bought a couple of these. They've worked really well.

To avoid pulling on the cables, you may want to invest in extension cords. I use these (on the side that connects to the Vive):

6-ft HDMI extension: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045532LU?ref_=pe_1763890_145073580_ste_e404_dp_1

6-ft power cord extension: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FTAM9NW/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

6-ft USB extension: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cable sleeve: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VSTFMI/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Don't skimp on the HDMI extension or you may get noise (snow) on your Vive display.

I used to have the 10-ft version of these and they work well with the GTX 980Ti. When I upgraded to the GTX 1080, I saw noise in the HMD display. Traced the problem to the 10-ft HDMI extension cable. Replaced it with the 6-ft version (since I only needed 6-ft anyway) and everything is perfect. YMMV based on your graphics card.

There's are the ones I used to extend mine for overhead cable set up. No problems at all.

USB
HDMI

I went with 6ft extension cables after hearing about issues some people had with longer ones.
These work fine for me with the HMD (on a GTX 1080, with a DisplayPort-HDMI adapter since I'm using my HDMI port for my TV):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012ASNHIG/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/

For a sensor extension cable I'm using this one (16ft) without issues:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/

I got these two from Amazon and they work great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H90L4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought these and they work fine. I think people have gotten up to 6m but that's pushing it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KRLQG2M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

From reading up on other posts, It looks like the amazon basics 6' USB extension cable works best. some have had luck with 10' cables, but some report issues. If you want to go further, you need to get an active connector which are much more expensive. Also, USB needs to be 3.0 and SuperSpeed. The thicker the better for shielding IMHO. The HDMI extension just needs to be rated HDMI 2.0 or higher. I don't think it's as big of a pain as the USB

Here's what I got, arrives Thursday

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H90L4

In my paranoia, I bought 6ft and 10ft versions of both, as it depends on your motherboard, BIOS settings, PSU, etc. 6ft is a standard I would expect most setups to work with. Here are the recommended products that I've seen posted around:


USB



HDMI

This is true. I bought the Rankie and USB 2.0 6ft and I'm having issues. Super disappointed

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KRLQG2M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00

You said in another comment that this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7S2FRE/) is what you have. That is not an active extension.

What did you use to extend the USB portion? I used these two and have no change in latency

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7S2FRE/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004C4SECG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You really gotta make sure the usb side is active (powered) usb 3.0, as far as I can tell that’s the only

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ519KC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and these are the ones I got as recommendations on this subreddit and they work flawless.

I used these cables from Amazon:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They're both 6 feet. Works fine with my Odyssey

I have mine high up on the wall behind me with 2 x 2 meter extensions - so 6m including original cable and it seems to works fine.

I used these

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hmm just buy this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7S2FRE

It's what I use and have no issues with

For anyone lurking this is the HDMI cable I use as well https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A30FLE2

XFX R9 390 with the 10 foot version of this Monoprice HDMI cable : https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Commercial-Premium-Female-Extension/dp/B004C4SECG

also using this 10 foot USB extension: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U

I am using https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07HQCGJJK
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00C7SA21U

Works well with my Zotac 1080 Ti & Gigabyte z97x Board.

At the advice of another post I just bought these to extend the cable from the linkbox to the headset by 10 feet.

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Extension-Ethernet/dp/B00JJ517VI?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

http://www.amazon.com/Hanvex-HDCA12-Extension-Foscam-Wireless/dp/B00FT9VW0O?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Just received them last evening and had no problems in Holopoint or Space Pirate Trainer. Put up new high scores in both of them actually =D

I was also advised to get some 1/4" cable sleeving for them, but the advised product did not fit around the HDMI header. I had some other sleeving at home so I just used that.

I'm running a similar setup to what you're looking at, just a bit shorter and less expensive. I couldn't see the need for the extra five feet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008D5ETHE/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/

Some zip ties, heat shrink and cable sleeving keeps it nice and tidy. I keep it clipped to the side of my desk with a binder clip to keep tension off the back of my computer. It also makes it nice and easy to disconnect when I'm not using it.

Other people have reported having good luck with the Vive box.

https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Link-Box-pc/dp/B01LXR6DKV/

If you go that route you'll also need to find a power supply and you still need to find cables.

I didn't have any luck with the Insignia cable from BestBuy. It's seems pretty hit or miss.

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aI.Dxb5AZ2ZHA

10' passive

Had the same issue (though on level 30 >.<). Here's now I fixed it:

I purchased 10' extensions for the HDMI/USB/Audio cables and then (this is key) wrapped them in these.

A costly upgrade but I haven't had a single wire issue since. You still get wrapped up if you're not careful but it's easy enough between rounds to see which way you need to turn during the next round to undo it.

Here's my stream from last night when I got rank #3, you can see my wire setup and technique for monitoring it (skip around).

You don't even need one with external power. This will work

Is your usb 10ft extension still working with your rift s or do you get disconnects once in a while? I've tried using this one and it disconnects after about an hour.

https://smile.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Extension-Black-Feet/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3TG7OW56839MD&keywords=oculus+rift+s+usb+3.0+extension+cable&qid=1569450471&sprefix=oculus+rift+s+usb+%2Caps%2C206&sr=8-3

Great! So, the Cable Matters USB3 10ft cable you linked seems to work for others.

But, the AmazonBasics HDMI 10ft cable sounds fishy in the reviews. A long with a bunch of other HDMI cables (10ft). One review said the 15ft cable worked great (amazonbasics).

Based on youtube, this one does not work at all.
Ultra Clarity Cables
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Someone is also saying it all depends on your motherboard?

My computer has a USB 3.0 port with the [battery]+ symbol, so I'm going to take a leap of faith and purchase the cables matter 10ft usb3 cable and the 10ft amazonbasics hdmi cable.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/?th=1
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-Female-Extension-Cable/dp/B01D5H91KE/


Should arrive a day before my Odyssey+

If you bought a $10 HDMI extension cable, you could run it up through the pole and it'd look 10x better.

had troubles with 10ft hdmi extensions, got a repeater and it worked fine. USB 3 10ft extentions no problems, grab the cable matters ones off amazon, have 3 of em no issues. repeater & USB 3.0 extention and any 10ft high speed HDMI cable.

I'm still waiting for my Rift actually, it arrives in another week, so not sure yet. But if you'd like I can report back when I get everything setup.

10m Active USB.3.0 Extensions (for front sensors)

3m USB 3.0 Extension (for HMD)

3m HDMI Extension (for HMD)

HDMI to DP Adapter (For GPU)

USB 3.0 PCI-E Card (to power the 10m active extensions)

I've read good things about all of these, with a lot of success stories. Hopefully all goes well on my end.

HDMI & USB 3.0 9FT Extension $19.99 @ BestBuy

or


HDMI 10FT Cable $12.99 @ Amazon

HDMI Repeater (for use with cable above) $8.99 @ Amazon

USB 3.0 10FT Extension $6.49 @ Amazon

Is this what you suggest?

https://www.amazon.com/Xbox-Wireless-Controller-Black-one/dp/B01LPZM7VI/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1537469360&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=Xbox%2BOne%2BWireless%2BController&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Oculus-Touch-Virtual-Reality-System-pc/dp/B073X8N1YW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537469132&sr=8-3&keywords=oculus%2Brift&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Oculus-Sensor-16ft-Repeater-Cable-pc/dp/B0727WDPX6/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1537469132&sr=8-13&keywords=oculus+rift

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Extension-Black-Feet/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=pd_bxgy_63_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00C7SA21U&pd_rd_r=92ee0af7-bd05-11e8-a216-dd230e49624b&pd_rd_w=OlpQu&pd_rd_wg=ojr6V&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3f9889ac-6c45-46e8-b515-3af650557207&pf_rd_r=13GYAYY62CMN8M36PEA6&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=13GYAYY62CMN8M36PEA6

Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable (USB 3.0 Extension Cable/USB 3 Extension Cable) in Black 3m https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ChRJBb87FSV9D

So wait, did you pick up a USB 2.0 one? Or 3.0? Link me? Don't see any Amazon Basic 3.0 extensions!

There is this one. Also need a few longer DVI cables, this might be the time to spend a little cash and just get everything I need in a $20 swoop :/

Nice. I originally ordered this but, somehow, the package was damaged in shipping and and sent back to Amazon. So, instead, I used this..

CHOETECH 3 Pack 1m/3.3ft USB Type C Cable Nylon Braided USB 3.0 A to USB C Cabl $11 right now

Along with this passive USB extender: Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable (USB 3.0 Extension Cable) in Black 10 Feet - $7.99 right now

This combo works great for me and I haven't noticed any major issues besides the Oculus Link Beta software not always seeing my Quest lol. Little over 13ft so not a ton of length but a decent amount. I just used a velcro strap on the back of my DAS to keep it from hanging. Idk if I'll get a longer cable in the future. I'm pretty okay with the length.

I got 2 of these last week and I use one on a sensor and the other for headset extension and haven't noticed any problems and they gave good connection on the first plug in.

I am using these with my samsung oddsey and have had no issues.

HDMI

USB

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481049135&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+3+extension+cable&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_five_browse-bin%3A7800928011

Hi Friends,

Unfortunately it's not working, and I don't get a picture on my headset. I'm on a 980ti. Here is what I bought:

HDMI cable:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=35XVN6IR0JMQR&coliid=I1GP1KSALY0FAO&psc=1

USB Cable:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=35XVN6IR0JMQR&coliid=I16Q59TVA2IVL6&psc=1

HDMI repeater:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O8M4JPS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2UOC0AU510S9U&coliid=I3ROHXPPHR8KFP

My exact 980ti video card:
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GTX-980TI-6GD5-V1/dp/B00ZYXMTSO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481050003&sr=8-1&keywords=MSI+Computer+Video+Graphics+Card+GTX+980TI+6GD5+V1

Maybe try a USB cable extension with a shorter charger?

USB
DP


Both pop as "others bought" when looking through the ceiling mounts for the wires.

I had both of these already in my house. The extension I was using for rift CV1 and the anker powerline for an old google pixel I don’t have anymore. They work together.


Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


USB C Cable (2-Pack 6ft) Anker Powerline USB C to USB 3.0 Cable with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for Samsung Galaxy Note 8, S8, S8+, S9, S10, iPad Pro 2018, MacBook, LG V20 G5 G6, Xiaomi 5 and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NGTUJ4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6j00Db7FN9KRX

Bought the recommended Anker cable and these:

USB 3.0 Extension: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Yu30DbJSVHERE

USB C Right Angle: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B078YRKTKM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Aw30Db77XKPWZ

Anker cable and extension worked like a charm, however the right angle gave me connection issues so I am returning it. As well it took me a few tries on different use ports to find the one that worked for me. If anyone is looking for a extension this works well.

Other findings are that if the quest goes all black, its best to do a full restart and connection resumes as normal. If not check your connections.

Is this the extension cord you are referring to?


Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Vgt1DbW4MZ8VW

I am. This one, to be exact.

So you have four corners on the recessed ceiling (higher up), and four corners on the lower ceiling. I would almost prefer to put the cameras in the corners of the lower ceiling, because it would give a more straight-on view of the player/controllers. Each camera has a narrower viewing cone at extreme close proximity. The further from the main playspace they are, the more that cone has a chance to "spread out" and cover the actual playspace. In this case, you would draw your playspace with at least (2 ft) or (0.6 m) distance from each of the four walls, so people don't bash their knuckles at the borders.

However, you might not want your cameras to be further than (12 ft) or (3.6 m) apart from each other (for best tracking quality). I don't have a big enough room to run into this limit, so you may be fine with further spaced out cameras. If the lower ceiling corners are further apart than (12 ft) or (3.6 m), then you may want to put them in the recessed ceiling anyways. You can always ignore the Oculus Rift setup's warnings about camera spacing, by the way. In fact, with larger playspaces, the Oculus setup wizard will always complain. Don't worry about it.

Also, you might want to consider using this USB card. It can handle the throughput of all four cameras in USB 3.0 mode, if desired. You can downgrade any camera to USB 2.0 by simply running a USB 2.0 cable to that camera instead of 3.0. A passive USB 2.0 cable is fine for short runs, but consider an active USB 2.0 cable (like the one that comes in the box of an extra Rift camera) for longer runs. You should put your Rift headset in one of the motherboard's USB 3.0 ports (USB 2.0 might actually be fine), and then put all four cameras (you might only need three cameras) in the USB extension card.

You can search this subreddit for discussions on whether you want/need to have the cameras/headset on 3.0 or 2.0. I prefer to run everything at USB 3.0, but it may not be necessary.

For USB 3.0 cable runs that are less than 10 feet (say, those corners nearest to your computer tower), use these passive USB 3.0 cables. You're also going to want a passive USB 3.0 extension for your Rift headset.

For USB 3.0 cable runs that are more than 10 feet away, you should use an active USB 3.0 cable. This is necessary for cameras that are further away from your tower. Note that the cable I linked has an optional barrel port for a 12V power supply. You only need to power these cables if you're daisy-chaining two or more of them in a row (for runs longer than (33 ft) or (10 m)).

These CAT6 round cable clips should work well for cable routing, especially for the slightly thicker active USB 3.0 cables. These general-purpose adhesive cable clips work fine for runs of the thinner, passive USB cables, but you may have issues with the adhesive depending on your wall.

You'll want this HDMI extension cable for your Rift headset, to make use of the extra space. I've had a good experience with bunching the HDMI and USB Rift headset extensions together by using these lightweight Velcro ties. I have about a (10 ft) or (3 m) square playspace, so you may encounter different problems than me if your playspace is larger. I only have three cameras, and it works fine. Good luck in your setup, I'm sure whatever you do will work great!

GTX 1080 and 10ft HDMI extension cabling not an issue. No repeater, no link box.

Cable Matters High Speed HDMI Extension Cable with Ethernet 10 Feet - 3D and 4K Resolution Ready
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI

along with their USB 3.0 extension cable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U

MSI GTX1080 (sli) Gaming X, using:

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Commercial Series High Speed HDMI® Extension Cable, 10ft Black:

https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024010&p_id=3343&seq=1&format=2

I also had trouble with extenders, but recently found a setup that works, and I'm glad I did that versus a box that is bulky (because I route everything up on the ceiling).

This is what worked for me at 10 feet:

Regular 10ft HDMI cable

Cheapish HDMI repeater


USB Extender cable

This is with a 1070 and a Rift Touch.

This should be it from my amazon history:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a Dell Visor as well and bought these extension cables just last week:
USB, HDMI

I haven't had any issues whatsoever while using them.

Here you go. Arrived last Saturday, no issues so far.

Chuck this in to mount it and you're golden.

Cheap tripods are great for traveling, and I've given over a hundred demos with them, but they kinda get in the way, and the larger you make the footprint (to improve stability) -the more they encroach in your play space.

I use these tripods with these swivel adapter things for my on-the-road show. As long as they don't get bumped, you're good to go.

For home, I use This tension rod and this rod mount - you may need a longer rod- I run it from the top of my dresser to the ceiling and the top of my computer desk to the ceiling. The 87 inch one isn't long enough to go from floor to ceiling for me.

As far as other essentials, two of these help with plugging the lighthouses in. An HDMI Extender, Power extender, and a USB 3.0 Extender (those three work perfectly for me) will make your life 100x more easy, especially if your computer isn't directly next to your play space. The extra 10 feet makes a world of difference for reducing tangles, reducing the number of times you have to stop and untwist your cord, and making you not worry about yanking on your computer when you get to the far corner.

Lastly, this wireless keyboard thing will save you from running back and forth from your desktop.

---

As far as sweatyness, I got over the ickyness pretty quickly. My friends have mastered basic hygiene, and face sweat doesn't smell all gross or anything. After each demo, I run the foam under the sink to rinse it off, then dab it with a paper towel and set it on a box fan to dry. It's good to go as soon as the next person is done and I repeat the process. I ended up buying a set of new face foams from the HTC website after I lost my narrow face foam though :(

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These two are the ones I got.

What does it mean to buy an ACTIVE USB extension? I was looking at this one, is this ok?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1AMUYYA3CT6HJ&psc=1

This 10' USB extension and this 10' HDMI extension have worked flawlessly for me with the same headset!

I was able to make a 10 foot extension from my headset to my Link Box using these three cables gave me a total of 25 feet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004C4SECG/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7SA21U/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FT9VW0O/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00C7SA21U?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00L1K1KDE?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

Both from cable matters , no issues so far.

If you are looking to make an extension cord I got one working using these:

• HDMI to DVI
  
• USB 3 extension
  
• High quality HDMI extension
  
  The HDMI to DVI is critical as DVI port gets more power allocated to it on your graphics card. It didn't work at all when I tested it without that. I do get a tiny bit of visual artifacts on all black loading screens (maybe a better hdmi cable could fix that) but all in all I am very happy with how it turned out. Now my headset cable is 5.5 meters long and I never have any problems playing room scale.

I haven't had any issues, even on games that don't have native WMR support. My only issue was the short cable with the Odyssey, but I picked up these three items to extend the cable and stick them to my desk and it's working perfectly and now has the same range as my vive did.

Something I should add, the og vive with wireless and a das would cost less than a vive pro, but you'd have wireless, which improves immersion drastically. Not to add another thing for you to consider and further complicate your decision making process.

My extensions seem to work fine, although it only seems that two USB3 ports on my board (x79 Deluxe) have enough power to work properly without the audio cutting out. No problem with the HDMI.

Here is what I used, these are both pretty flexible and don't require adapters, etc:

HDMI (this is actually a set of two, but they weren't as thick as other HDMI 2.0 extensions I've seen):https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI

USB:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U

I have posted this previously.
Here is what I used to make my extension for my Samsung Odyssey:

HDMI Cable

HDMI Repeater

USB Extension

I saw that part of issue with extensions not working was the lack of an HDMI repeater.

Here is the video that I watched to learn how to build one. Only difference is I opted for 10ft. instead of 15ft.

EXTRA-LONG 15' Oculus Rift Break-Out Cable - IT WORKS!

When it comes to USB extensions and where to plug in the equipment (USB 2.0 vs 3.0, etc), I found the Help section on the Oculus website to be insufficient. They don't take into consideration if you have a PCI-E USB 3.0 controller (Which I had to purchase) in addition to the on board USB 3.0 ports.

I have 4 sensors, all of which are connected to USB extension cables. I found the Oculus setup wizard to be most useful. If you have green check marks for everything, then you're good! If you don't, try plugging stuff into different ports until you get all green check marks. At one point I had to even unplug some other USB devices, plug in my sensors (so they would turn green), then I could plug in my other USB devices. I now have all 4 sensors setup working flawlessly.

For extension cables, I had no issues. Three of my sensors have 10' extenders and I also have a USB extension cable on the headset as well as an HDMI extender. I spent a decent amount of time getting my "Rift Room" setup and I am so happy that I spent the time to set it up right. Makes for such a solid experience and I have a large play area that I can freely move around in.

For reference here is the HDMI/USB cables I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (HDMI Extender)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (USB 3.0 Extender)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MT1EQM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (USB 2.0 Extender)
(Also, my 2 additional sensors came with 1 10' USB extension cable each...purchased from Newegg)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (USB 3.0 Controller)

All of these extensions have worked well for me

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Yeah works great, though the cable is REALLY thick. My only complaint is the power extension cable says it is 10', but it is actually about 2 inches shorter than the HDMI and USB cable which makes it slightly a pain to plug in. Other than that, no issues. Here is everything I ordered:

HDMI cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004C4SECG

Power cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H8Q8EGA

USB cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U

Sleeving: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UHQMYW

I have all 4 of my sensors mounted 7 ft up, I have switched back to only using 3 till I get this issue resolved.

I tried using the cable matters 16ft active USB 3.0 cable for one of my fronts sensors but it wouldnt detect as 3.0, so I swapped it for the 10ft passive one and it worked fine.

Here are the mounts and cable I have had success with:
Mount-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

10ft USB 3.0 cable-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

All I have plugged in are my mouse, keyboard, webcam. I guess I could just disconnect the webcam till I need it.
I downloaded the drivers from Inatecks website so I think thats good to go.
I am using extension cables. 3.0 USB extensions I got from Amazon.

I just ordered Amazon Basics 10 foot HDMI Extender https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE and Cable Matters 10 foot USB 3 extension https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U, $15 for the set. The Cable Matters one was recommended on reddit and the amazon one had reviews saying it worked.

Alright, an update. Everything works. I am using 10ft version of https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ as the HDMI extension (I got the 2pack which is unfortunately currently sold out, I'm not sure if they sell them separate) and the 10ft version of this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ for both the headset and my sensors.

Apparently the HDMI may or may not work depending on your video card and I guess I lucked out with my MSI 980. Some people have had to use a DVI->HDMI converter. I have the headset + 1 sensor going into the Inateck pci card, and my 2nd sensor going into my motherboards USB2. When my 3rd sensor gets here, assuming everything works, I'll likely plug it into the Inateck card as well.

Depending upon your computer placement you may not need any.

The 2 front sensors that I have plugged into USB3.0 only need to be 6 to 8 feet apart, slightly more if you want to push the limits. If you need an extension for one of them you should use a 3.0. My computer is off to the side so I used a 10 foot extender by Cable Matters for the far front sensor.

I have seen people mention they used all 2.0 with good results though. Since you ordered 2.0 already you might as well give them a try.

The rear corner sensor has a USB 2.0 /16 feet extension cable included so it was able to be routed outside the perimeter my play space to where I needed it.

I bought the same...links below:-

• Cable Matters HDMI 10ft Extension Cable (2-Pack) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/
  
• Cable Matters USB 3.0 10ft Extension Cable - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U
  
  Including P&P to Perth, the total cost was $33.65 USD.
  
  I haven't received them yet (arriving next week) so can't confirm they work for me...but they are listed as compatible in a few other links on here, so fingers crossed :)
  

I will try to get some pictures tonight. I am using 10' extensions.

HDMI:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am using these with both my cameras and headset. Everything works great. (200008-BLACK-10)

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B013ICN940/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have 10 ft. extenders. If you have hdmi you might want to try that. Otherwise, give me a few minutes and I'll link my cords.


EDIT:


USB cables


HDMI

These both work consistantly for me.

This Extension Cable works, and This one.

​

This USB-C cable did not work.

​

PC

Gigabyte GA-Z270P-D3

Intel Core I7 6700 Gaming PC - 3.4GHz - 4GHz Quad Core - 32GB RAM - 1080 GTX 8GB

​

Laptop

Dell 7577 i5 Max-Q GTX 1060, 16GB ram

​

Both worked no issues.

Just getting back to you on this, I did as you suggested, here's a video showing how it turned out. One sensor is connected directly to the motherboard, another is connected directly to the mobo with the extension cable included with a standalone sensor, and then another is connected with this cable to the Inateck card, along with the Rift plugged into the Inateck card. I'm using the latest Fresco Logic drivers, with USB Selective Suspend disabled, Fresco Registry Tweaks enabled, and "Disable Fresco Power Management on start" checked in Oculus Tray Tool.

I did a 10' no problem with these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB hub - because I think my current hub is dying and I want something better, and because everyone needs a hub these days!

The Bounty Hunter Code Because we both need to learn more about being a good Bounty Hunter!

New Apple-approved cables because the cheap ones keep dying and the Apple ones are expensive.

Bag of Holding Because we both need to carry around a lot of stuff and look cool while doing it.

Actually, I would feel more comfortable recommending something like this with an external power source. Only because we don't know what the OR's demand will be (atleast I do not).

http://www.amazon.co.uk/EasyAcc%C2%AE-bus-powered-self-powered-Ultrabooks-Microsoft/dp/B00ID270ZU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1452086495&sr=8-5&keywords=powered+usb+3+0+hub

Some cheap chinese thing probably... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ID270ZU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ID270ZU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1426084031&sr=8-2&pi=SL75&keywords=easyacc+3.0

Works like a charm, though it needs to be plugged into an outlet via USB adapter, like a phone charger. It didn't come with it's own adapter, but it was cheap and works great.

Edit: I should mention this is USB 3.0

I've been carrying this thing around since I got my phone. https://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG

I have a 6p also. In all honesty its about as annoying as having a MicroUSB port on your new phone when everyone was still using the MiniUSB port. Give it another year or two and it will be fine. For now I just carry around one of these in my pocket.

Its not the first charge port transition thats happened. Its just that it seems more pronounced because there finally is a "Standard" port that everyone settled on instead of having crazy proprietary charging connectors like back in the flip phone days.

These are the ones I'm currently using.

https://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG/

The important thing is to look in the reviews for Benson Leung's stamp of approval. His review is pretty much always the highest-rated one if he reviewed the product. If he hasn't reviewed a particular adapter or if he doesn't give it five stars, then stay clear.

I have been using an adapter I bought on Amazon (bought it for my 6P) and it does indeed charge. No dash of course, but it works.

It also works for file transfers to a PC.

https://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG

I have this one, but I don't see why the one you bought wouldn't work.

Just use one of these USB C to micro USB adapters with any of the old cables you already have:

TechMatte USB-C to Micro USB Adapter Convert Connector for HTC 10, LG G5, Nexus 5X, Nexus 6P, OnePlus 2 with 56k Resistor; Approved to Meet USB Type-C Standard (2-Pack, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151RKYBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Sv1pxbV9H6YMF

it is a bit of a pain, you have to order stuff from amazon so there is an added expense. You can just get some converters for a few bucks and use your existing stuff 'non fastly' (I'll trademark that later). Or you can buy C's and charge fastly. I bought one a to c cable for my wife to transfer to the computer... apparently one does not just wifi transfer to the hard drive in our house.

http://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1463677760&sr=8-6&keywords=usb+a+to+c like 8 bucks for 2, so 4 bucks each

Some definitely are. Fortunately, Benson Leung does reviews for them. Here's one he recommends.

Yes, I use a USB C adapter for many microUSB cables. I bought a three-pack of them from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

There's a bunch of hullaballoo about getting "certified" USB C cables, but I can't make heads or tails about what the internet is saying. In the end, I just spent 15 minutes on Amazon reading reviews and questions/answers, and then tried to find which item read "certified" the most in the page using CTRL+F...it seems to have worked for me.

Here is the desktop version of your link

They sell mini adapters that take a Micro-B input to a C output. One came with my Honor 8 before I switched to pixel. I'm not sure about charging speeds though.

Edit:
Here's an example of one:

TechMatte Micro USB to USB C Adapter, Converts Micro USB Female to USB C Male (2 Pack, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151RKYBG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_G27CDbZMWVKF1

They make cheap adapters, they work great.

But don't they come with a little converter that you can put on a micro usb cable?

(my father has one he put in his wallet for whenever he needs it)

Edit: sorry, he had the S8, and he bought it on the side. This is the plug thingy

This is basically what I did. I bought those little "nubby" USB-C to microUSB adapters and just keep an extra in my bag and in my car. I bought 4 of them in case I lose them as they are so small! lol

The car does not show anything related to my phone at any time (other than bluetooth connectivity related stuff).

I've ordered these to give a try: http://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG so in a couple days I'll know if that fixes the problem.

When everything's working properly, do you have to open Android Auto on your phone, or does just plugging it in get everything working?

The OP2 has a USB 2 type C connector. It's a pain, but you have to use a USB C to Micro B and then an OTG. This is what I use.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151RKYBG/

Right, I don't believe Fi is available outside the US.

I had purchased a pack of A- micro cables a few months before switching phones - I really liked the 1' length in the car.

I got a 2 pack of these techmatte adapters, and use 1 in the car and 1 on the cable to connect to my PC. I also used a little bit of heat shrink wrap to help make them stay on the cables a little better.

I am thinking about getting a true quick charge compatible car charger and an extra c-c cable for that, as I've noticed that with streaming music, gps, bright screen, and other things, the phone drains faster than the current charger can keep up.

so those adapters will make it so you have some extra charging options, albeit slower charging than the charger that came with the phone.

These ones follow the spec and are reviewed by Benson

http://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1459159116&sr=8-3&keywords=micro+usb+to+usb+c

Well of course not! :-)

I was just trying to point out that the concept already exists.


So with an alternate adaptor like this one and ear buds like these (all though these look like crap) you could do what this crowd funded thing is trying to do now.

http://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Upgraded-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG

Would love to get this one but they don't ship to Toronto

Which one do you use?

I bought this and it bootlooped my phone.
http://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Upgraded-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449872881&sr=8-2&keywords=micro+to+usb+c

This one has been tested by a Google engineer. Great reviews. USB-C to Micro USB Adapter, TechMatte USB Type C to Micro USB Convert Connector for OnePlus 2, Nexus 5X 2015, Nexus 6P; Upgraded and Approved to Meet USB-C Standard (2-Pack, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151RKYBG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_0R5AwbVEV7PYX

https://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG

Would one of these work?

TechMatte USB-C to Micro USB Adapter Convert Connector for Nexus 5X 2015, Nexus 6P, OnePlus 2, with 56k Resistor; Approved to Meet USB Type-C Standard (2-Pack, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151RKYBG/ref=cm_sw_r_em_awd_mpPQwbXTZ5KDG

I just bought this and am waiting for it to come on Monday.

http://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Upgraded-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451755736&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+micro+to+usb+c

Also check out the Techmatte mini to C adapters on amazon. They are tiny and just slip onto your normal chargers you're used to. They won't charge any faster or anything, but they are Benson approved and they are pretty grippy when they go on, so you shouldn't have to worry about it popping off.

Charged mine last night with an older blackberry blade AC charger and the adapter on it. Worked just fine, no heat up or anything.

here's a link

• Stock USA charger - rapid charging - problem
  
• Other normal chargers (via USB microB-to-C compliant adapter by TechMatte) - normal charging - no problem
  
• Other rapid charger - not tried
  
  Are there any other chargers that I can use which will rapidly charge and not cause the issue?

But then you would have two separate devices instead of 2 cords? If that's not the case then you would only need to have the one USB to USB C cord and not two right?

Also you don't need another cable either. Something like this will work too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151RKYBG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

micro b to type c, and a micro b y cable?

i know type c will not let you do it natively, but that might. i have the one linked and it does work and is now benson approved affter they fixed it.

Old chargers and cables still work, you just need a little converter. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0151RKYBG/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151RKYBG

Benson approved, very well priced - works great on my 6P.

I've got a 6p - I just bought the Micro adapters.
No - it doesn't rapid charge, but it keeps it charged, and charging, with screen on navigation.

These are what I bought. Some reviews say it didn't work for them, but i haven't had any issues.

[http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151RKYBG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00]

Yeah, I used my same cable with a micro<->C converter and it works fine. Running Waze and Pocketcasts it kept the phone at 100% during a 8 hour drive recently.

(edit: these are what I have: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151RKYBG. Note that the wall wart with this WILL NOT charge the phone at "quick charging" speeds, but for my use they work fine overnight as well as the car.)

I got one of these arriving tomorrow.

> At the moment I'm just using the explorer on my phone to download from Drive, then copy to Music from Downloads. It's tedious as hell (especially since I'm super anal about songs being in folders by artist, and afaik I can't copy full folders, just files) so if there's a better way I'm all ears!

I have many, many, gigs of music organized in folders by artist, and then subfolders by album, so I feel your pain! It seems like you have figured a lot of this out, but I'll share my thoughts regardless. Hope they help.

I have never used a chromebook, but they are cloud-based aren't they -- there are no actual files on your chromebook, just in the cloud on Drive? If so, that is the source of your problem because you can't drag/drop folders from Drive (as far as I know). Going one by one, even multi-selecting in folders, will take forever.

The easier way is to get the files on a computer (in folders) and then use either a USB cable or an app like Superbeam to move entire folder structures. Note also that if you have the files on a USB drive you can plug the drive directly into your phone and use the phone (you will need an adapter like this one). I keep all my music files on a 1 TB seagate drive, and I just plug the drive into my phone whenever I need to move some files onto my N5X.

If the only place you have your files is Drive, then I think there may be no way around the tedious file-by-file download.

If you have to buy a new controller, at that rate you're better off with any number of the available bluetooth controllers that work without issue. Don't need to specifically get a Sony one unless that's what you're going for.

I'm with /u/rube though, you're not likely to find a C-to-mini ITG cable. Though you might find a C-to-A cable and just plug in a standard mini cable to it. Something like this one or this one.

This adapter

This controller

Works with any of the GTAs I have (all of them in Play Store -- I'm a sucker for GTA < 4). Also allows you to navigate on the home screen of the Nexus 6p/9 and Pixel phone.

Something like this should work too.

Yup

iXCC USB Type C to USB 3.0 Type A Adapter, Charge and Sync Cable, On The Go (OTG Host Cable) for Type-C Supported Devices (6 Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017TJN22C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VhDUzbYYC9YXE

Dude I saw that, I'd love to try that. So is this everything I need?
https://www.rcplanet.com/fat-shark-rc-universal-av-cable-with-90-prong-fsv2003_p/fsv2003.htm

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017TJN22C?ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00&redirect=true&psc=1&tag=viglink20264-20&pldnSite=1

Plus the app?

I bought this specific ethernet adapter and this USB-C cable and it works great for me if that helps. I couldn't figure out why I was so much better at Splatoon 2 on handheld but terrible docked, so I bought the ethernet adapter to get the best connection in the meantime since I was playing more docked. Turns out it was ultimately TV input lag. New TV fixed that and I don't use the ethernet adapter often now, but it's nice to have an extra for the PC.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586/

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017TJN22C/

Benson has update most of his reviews too to reflect the Pixel phone. I bought mine when the Nexus 6p came out for $5.99 and it's been roughly over a year and the price on these 2 pc adapters have only risen one dollar.

I just picked up a pair of these - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0191FRCAA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02

I keep one in my wallet and one in the car. They work perfect!

And top comment is from Benson Leung with all the results he had for this item.

I got a two pack of these

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0191FRCAA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

based on Benson's review. Been working perfectly for weeks.

Any chance this would work?

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Converts-Technology-Compatible-ChromeBook/dp/B01COOQIKU

Yes it comes with a USB 3.1 Gen 1 Type A to Type B cable.

Is this the type of adapter you're referring to?

Syntech adapter

Anker adapter

Buy one of these and bring your switch to tournaments. You can use a USB C to A OTG adapter and plug your controller into your switch to sync it. It's the fastest and most convenient way.

I've had two newer (purchased within the last 2 years) flash drives that were working, using this adapter, but after I did one of the 15" MBP firmware updates, I used it with one of the flash drives (SanDisk Cruzer 64 GB USB 2) and it wiped all the data and bricked the flash drive. Wouldn't recognize in macOS and in Windows it was to where it would read the size at 0. I tried to reformat it a few different ways, and it wouldn't do anything.

Of course before doing that troubleshooting I plugged in another of the same flash drive because I needed to transfer data, and that one did the same thing.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OQqXAb126MAB1

I know dongle hell is annoying, but one or two of these would limit the number of usb c versions of cables you’d need.

These work for charging AND pass data for heathen devices that aren’t natively usb c.

What phone do you have? For an Android from the past few years, you could use something like this. You'd plug it into your phone, then plug a flash drive with a lot of storage onto the other side. If your phone supports microSD you can get a big microSD card. Be careful though since a phone supports a Max size of microSD.

How many videos do you want? How much storage? Will you have access to WiFi?

I use this exact setup. Anker USB-C OTG cable and Anker USB 3.0 SD/microSD Card Reader. I use this to copy photos from my SD card of my Nikon D5500 to my LG G6. There are some cheaper options on Amazon but I usually trust Anker or Aukey as they haven't caused me any issues (so far).

Not sure what country you are in, but here is one from the UK for £6:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-Converts-Technology-Compatible-ChromeBook-black/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=H4778WXRJBXFRPZ4HGTZ

from a reputable brand.

I bought this one a few weeks ago and it has been great. I use it to transfer between my Nexus 6p and Chromebook Flip

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_bQCrzb42838XM

Anker usb c to usb Link

I've used an audioquest dragonfly with my mate 20 Pro with great success. You'll just need a USB-C adapter. I use the Anker USB-C OTG cable. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-Converts-Technology-Compatible-ChromeBook-black/dp/B01COOQIKU?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_4

As long as the embroidery machine acts as a USB drive then it will likely work. You would just need a USB OTG adapter and then test if it works.

Depending on which port your phone has you would get something similar to either of these:

https://smile.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Converts-Technology-Compatible/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=sr_1_13?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1542684703&sr=1-13&keywords=usb+otg

https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-com-0-5m-Micro-USB-Extension-Cable/dp/B012S0ZQNU/ref=sr_1_27?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1542684735&sr=1-27&keywords=usb+otg

So, something like this I believe you mean:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Converts-Technology-Compatible/dp/B01COOQIKU

Geez I'm getting old, I should have just realized that's what I need to get, DOH!!!

Thanks for the response...

Also maybe my anker is not powerful enough?

It's this one
Anker USB-C to USB 3.1 Adapter, Converts USB-C Female into USB-A Female, Uses USB OTG Technology, Compatible with Samsung Galaxy Note 8, S8 S8+ S9, iPad Pro 2018, Nexus 6P 5X, LG V20 G5 and more https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zgs8CbF6ME8CE

I guess it's easier to understand if I link some stuff.

You can get something like this cable, this adapter, this hub, or anything else that looks similar. They all do the same thing so it doesn't really matter which. Any of them can connect to the bottom of the Switch to let you plug USB stuff in. Switch has the same kind of port (it's called USB-C) as the recent Macbooks so a lot of these things say they're for Macbook but they work with Switch too.

Only some USB LAN adapters work with Switch. Here's a few examples: HORI, Plugable, Cable Matters, AmazonBasics. Any of these work the same so get whichever one you can. They all work with the dock too.

If you don't care about using a LAN adapter with your dock at all, you could also get this LAN adapter instead which plugs directly into the Switch without needing another adapter, but you cannot use it when the Switch is docked.

If you are using ethernet you are at a desk, right? You could just leave a USB-C hub/dock there. I don't see why it needs to be built into a case. Obviously YMMV but I would never buy a product like this. I would rather have a dock at my desk and maybe a USB-C to A adapter in my laptop bag in case I need to plug in a USB drive on the go. Frankly I so rarely plug in anything when I'm away from my desk I could probably do without any dongles entirely.

This is what I have.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FFaHzbR4SNK5D

I plug in the white cable that came with the spark into that adapter,and the other end into the controller. The type C end go's into my phone.

Wait what? I meant the USB thingy that comes with the Cloud 2. If you need wireless though, just do a quick google search and you should find plenty of USB wireless audio adapters. If you need USB audio (or Gamecube controllers :P) in portable mode this should work. Sorry for the confusion. https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Converts-Technology-Compatible/dp/B01COOQIKU/ Be sure to test it in docked mode first to make sure it's compatible with the Switch. And still, it might not work properly in portable mode, but it should lol

I would probably go with this. It says it says it is supported by Nexus 5X and 6P. Also with this one you won't need micro usb to usb C adapter.

Android with a USB-OTG cable (Anker has good ones - this one is for USB C on the phone and connects directly to the Kobo microUSB cable) - but you can get other combos - connect phone to Kobo, transfer files between the two. Fast and easy.

I'm 100% sure this works because I do it sometimes with a Kobo [Clara] and a Samsung Note 8 - had some epubs on the phone that I wanted on the Kobo and vice versa. $8 solution.

Anything using cloud storage (Dropbox, etc) or FTP might work well too but maybe not on stock firmwares and it's not a big drawback to carry a tiny USB-OTG cable along on vacation, plus it's handy for other uses (external DAC/Amps, etc).

yeah this is the one I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01COOQIKU/

I just got my cable in yesterday. It was the Anker one. Plug it in and if anything the white static screens became worse.

I have a similar hub and it works so I don't see why this wouldn't.

Edit: I don't think HDMI out through USB-C is supported so you'd be better off saving your $ and get this Anker (or similar) USB-C OTG adapter with a USB 2.0 hub (the USB ports on these phones are only USB 2.0)

Awesome, will this work? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01COOQIKU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A294P4X9EWVXLJ&psc=1

Hey guys, trying to get into the scene here and I feel like my phone isn't enough for my HD598. If someone could help me out that would be great.

I use an Honor 8 and HD598s. I'd like to get a bit more out of them, especially volume wise and I'm looking into the audioquest dragonfly or Audioengine D3. First off, which one would be better for sound quality and volume? I listen to a wide range of music so just generally which one would be better.

Second, would an HD598 do well with either one of those?

Third, can an Honor 8 power them sufficiently?

Fourth, I'd like to use this to connect them: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01COOQIKU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520274495&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=usb+c+to+usb+3.1+otg&dpPl=1&dpID=31u9EgABWmL&ref=plSrch

Overall, would this combo be alright and would the Honor 8 be able to completely power the Dragonfly/D3 and would the dragonfly/D3 be a good pair with the HD598?

I just got this nailed down myself. At first, I followed Wirecutter's recommendation and bought the Satechi Multiport Adapter. It's a beautiful dongle, and it worked great for display, but my USB keyboard and wireless mouse plugged into the USB A ports would not work.

Yesterday I received the Samsung adapter that is made for TabPro S, which was recommended by Chrome Unboxed. Works perfectly, but only has one USB A. I'm waiting on a keyboard I ordered so both that and my mouse will connect to one Logitech Unifying Receiver.

Yes it does. It's an awkward angle since you need to plug it into the bottom. But it does work. I own the Amazon Basics USB Type-C to USB 3.1 Gen1 Female Adapter Cable. And I've never had an issue.
Here's the link:

AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB 3.1 Gen1 Female Adapter - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYXVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_SDaBVC2wXpgM8

Ah - OK, so I'm assuming you have an A device (with a B socket or a captive / fixed USB plug) as the DAC?

 

If your device just has a USB plug, then you need either one of those all in one PD hubs with at least one A socket, or the two headed dongle linked by the other user + a C to A adapter.

 

If your device has a USB-B socket at the device end, you can get C to B cables, so the mini PD hub linked by the other guy + cable should get you C PD + B connectivity.

e.g. if you have a USB2.0 DAC, then you'll need a C to 2.0 B cable.

If it's a USB3.0 device, then you'll need a C to 3.0 B cable.

Those are just examples - I don't have any of those cables, and you will need to be careful - especially with the 2.0 B cables, make sure they have the resistor as a minimum and look at reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYXVE/

Literally any bluetooth mouse is fine or usb wire/less + USB C OTG wire (like this one). You can't charge the Tab while using a USB mouse unless you get another adapter so I'd probably recommend the bluetooth option unless you want to use it with more devices

Over USB, yes. I saw some video on youtube where a guy hooked up a midi keyboard (I think a keystep?) with a little usb type a to type c adapter (like this). You'll need the adapter unless you have a midi keyboard with USB-C out.

I should say: I’ve noticed all these same problems when docked with the LAN adapter connected. Undocked, but using a USB-C OTG adapter in handheld mode works with the LAN adapter. So strange.

My LAN adapter and USB-C adapter info:

Plugable USB 3.0 to Ethernet Gigabit LAN Network Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qstUCbGS6NV4Y

AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB 3.1 Gen1 Female Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYXVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8qtUCbXYAKV0X

Does anyone know any good USB-C Chargers that actually supply the full 18w to an undocked switch? For example, is this charger good for it? I heard the Google Pixel 18w charger is good. Also, if I use a female USB-A to C adapter with my Pro Controller cable (example), would that support the full 18w charging?

I'd like a cheaper, USB-C both ends cable recommendation too.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYXVE/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=usbc+otg&qid=1570309691&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE0OEdBSk9SSjJJRzAmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA2MTg1OTkxWDcxS09WUVVYNVhBJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA3NTQ1OTAyN1dWRFYzUjFDQU1EJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

I assume you have a usb 2.0 cable that has a boxy end for your interface and a regular usb on the other end. If that is the case, then yes, just buy a usb ->usb C adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYXVE/ref=asc_df_B01GGKYXVE5402270/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B01GGKYXVE&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167140037427&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16667002832637365162&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9002228&hvtargid=pla-297577282206

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYXVE/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?adgrpid=55679860786&hvadid=274680325131&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=1026339&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=17124843397259425697&hvtargid=kwd-298730157598&keywords=usb%2Bc%2Bto%2Ba%2Badapter&qid=1555878299&s=gateway&sr=8-5&th=1&psc=1

I have Rift S working on the USB-C port of my RTX2070 GPU without any problem. I bought the adapter from amazon:

https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B01GGKYXVE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This one works well for me:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGKYXVE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just need one of these to get going.... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGKYXVE/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

That would probably work actually, and you're lucky in that the pi-zero can be backpowered thru the usb data port. AND it seems you can make it act like a gadget, which I didn't know.

https://www.rmedgar.com/blog/using-rpi-zero-as-keyboard-setup-and-device-definition

Making a portable hack gadget? Have fun with it.

Edit: I'd just make it into an A-type and use an adapter like this unless form factor is important. That way you can use it on A or C.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYYT0

I don't know if many cheap USB type C switches are available, but there are many regular USB 3.0 switches that could possible work with the correct adapters.

There may potentially be bandwidth limitations though, so be warned.

USB 3.0 switch: https://www.amazon.com/Female-Adapter-Macbook-Tablet-Mobile/dp/B01C43FUIW
USB C female to USB 3.1 male adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Female-Adapter-Macbook-Tablet-Mobile/dp/B01C43FUIW
USB 3.1 female to USB C male adapter: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0

This is a strange question, but if you were to buy a USB C to A device, could you pass through the Thunderbolt controller and have the guess access the USB device directly?

I could be wrong but I think you can use it as a regular USB port too. It's just if you want to push video through it then that video is tied to your iGPU. For you case, it's just another, hopefully separate, USB bus to try. Not that you need to try it but something like this would give you one last option:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0/

I now have a Mayflash GC adapter. Works perfectly. If I were to use a USB Adapter like this one, which lets me use the Mayflash on handheld mode, will that brick my switch or cause any other problems?

This one?

AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB 3.1 Gen1 Female Adapter - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYYT0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LhrTBbS3NCJTK

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0/ref=asc_df_B01GGKYYT0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167151358503&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11534603015747563071&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005488&hvtargid=aud-464976914866:pla-490647422152&psc=1


just get something like this, and keep it with your mouse, or like tape it onto your mouse cable

Nothing special on the LAN adapter required.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Network-Ethernet-Supports-Nintendo/dp/B00MYTSN18/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1543469038&sr=1-5&keywords=ugreen+ethernet+adapter

You'll need this to connect it directly to Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0

Multi-port stand/dock.

https://www.gearhawkstudio.com/?fbclid=IwAR3tcyAx6vb5vCFeHVVClS_QPiE9pPlWOr7Wxn-lFKkDV-VbMYKyqjIr834

Single port wireless adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Adapter-Nintendo-GameCube-Classic-Controllers/dp/B07JLF9PVG

Wireless GC-style controller.

https://www.powera.com/products/wireless-controller-for-nintendo-switch-gamecube-style-purple/

You could also get a stand for your Switch, and use a USB type-C adapter to connect any Gamecube adapter. The GC adapters only need the black cable to be plugged in for all four controllers to function, the grey end only provides rumble.

https://www.amazon.com/Compact-Playstand-Nintendo-Switch-Officially-Licensed/dp/B01N9RTMWS/

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0/

Lastly, there is another stand from Hori which comes with 4 USB ports and allows you to charge your Switch at the same time.

https://www.amazon.com/HORI-Nintendo-Switch-Multiport-USB-Playstand/dp/B01A827XHM/

Interior:

• 3D MAXpider Kagu floor mats
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/3D-MAXpider-Liners-Pre-Order-Reservation/dp/B07D9GMYG8/
    
• CupHolderHero cupholder and console inserts
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FN6975Y/
    
• BASENOR Center Console Organizer
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L6VXCYZ/
    
    Apps/Software/USB:
    
    
• Samsung BAR 128GB USB 3.1 Flash Drive
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BPG9YX9/
    
• Any USB to USB-C adapter - use to review sentry footage on your phone
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGKYYT0/

You COULD try a USB type A to USB C adaptor if they make it. Then plug your 2.4ghz dongle into the type A end of the adaptor, and the type C end into the switch.

There's no reason to think that a PC headset would ever work on a switch though, so it would not be a for sure bet that this would work. It's possible it may NEVER have a workaround.

https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0

The Audio Technica ATR2100 is the most recommended beginner mic you'll find around here. It has a USB connection and an XLR connection, so your buddy can continue to use it if he decides to upgrade to an audio interface later on. (I just ordered one with the intention of using both at the same time for Skype reasons). He'll need something like this to connect the mic's USB cable to his phone.

I just did a quick Google and it does appear people are using their ATR2100s with iPhones and iPads. I suggest your buddy look at YouTube videos about it before committing.

Wait, what? Like this cable? https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0

I'm not sure how you connect your Xbox controller to your phone. The Xbox One OG controller is wireless, so to make it wired, isn't the controller cable USB Micro B to USB A male? You connected that cable to the one in the Amazon link?

I use [this](Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) with a Jeda and flash drive.

Edit: Not sure if link worked on mobile: Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

If you have some basic electronics experience you can solder your own cable together to fit you specifically. If you don't want to go down that route try these and just duct tape the connections together so they don't come loose

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07232M876/

I have no experience with the 3rd party versions, but the official Tesla one is just part of the car. It feels like it was always there and will last with the car.
It was tough to justify the price, but I’m glad I did.

I got two Onvian splitters, neatly plugged in, wound up on themselves and used some black electrical tape to tuck everything up behind the pad. Thumb drive is up in there a bit, but accessible. Same with the ‘spare’ open USB port.

Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to 2 Female Adapter USB A Cord 2 Port Hub for Data Charging Syncing (Only one Port for Data) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6

I read somewhere that a couple of updates ago Tesla disabled charging on the front USB ports and you have to use a USB splitter (data only + charge only) to charge again. Something like https://www.amazon.com/Onvian-Splitter-Adapter-Charging-Syncing/dp/B01KX4TKH6/

I just installed the Nomad charger myself and wasn’t able to use the supplied splitter with my ssd (the dashcam button wouldn’t appear when plugged in over the splitter). For whatever reason it works fine with the Onvian splitter Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I’m same issue here. I got this and it works great. Plug the charger into the power side. (You would need two if you want both sides of the mat to work... I’m assuming a software update will fix it so I only went with one.)

Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to 2 Female Adapter USB A Cord 2 Port Hub for Data Charging Syncing (Only one Port for Data) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZfvQCbQ4TFQBZ

90% sure it came with this one

Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to 2 Female Adapter USB A Cord 2 Port Hub for Data Charging Syncing (Only one Port for Data) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N44SCbN2QBG8Y

I cheated by using a USB splitter that's connected to the neutrik internally.

Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to 2 Female Adapter USB A Cord 2 Port Hub for Data Charging Syncing (Only one Port for Data) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oN8UCbQ27D72K

The red port is where the LED strip plugs into. The unmarked plug the one that goes into the brook UFB

The other way is to cut the USB cable and run the red cable to the VCC screw terminal and the black to one of the GND screw terminals

Don't know about wireless charging, but I bought this splitter. One side is for my USB reader/micro SD card. The other side for the included charging dock cable. Works fine.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KX4TKH6

a usb stick, which shouldnt draw or need the kind of power an SSD would. here is the splitter i am using.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KX4TKH6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Same, cost $5.99 on Amazon works great with the v9 DashCam and the Nomad.

You can buy a simple splitter from Amazon so that you have both chargers and the USB flash drive. I'm using one in my Model 3 at the moment for MP3s.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KX4TKH6/

Interesting. I actually have a usb splitter so I can run a ssd in the car. That means one of the two cables to the wireless pad is power-only. I'll check to see if it's the one side that is functional. Thanks =)

​

edit: heres the cable https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KX4TKH6/

Just checked and the one with this splitter is the one functioning. So I ordered a second one. Will allow me to add a second ssd to boot.

I was super pissed when I found out Apple's adapter didn't do DP.

There's a bunch of adapters when I search on Amazon. Here's one:

>USB Type C Adapter,ITANDA USB C Type to Mini DisplayPort/Mini DP Adapter Cable With Aluminium Case Support 4K resolution for Apple New Macbook 2016, ChromeBook Pixel - Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2ORP84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_pImQybS9A09QZ

edit: use that with a regular thunderbolt cable (or a displayPort cable), and you should be good to go.

I have the same issue, just got a new iMac and was hoping to use my old display as a second monitor but the adapter I bought doesn't work (and in fact the Amazon listing was updated after I bought it to note that it won't work with 2017 Macs and they're working on a new one). Not that that's particularly helpful, but at least you know it's not just you.

So my adapter just arrived, and my tablet (and pen function) works! I just used a usb-c to mini displayport adapter (I'm not sure if brand matters, but I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/ITANDA-DisplayPort-Aluminium-resolution-ChromeBook/dp/B01N2ORP84/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503860489&sr=8-2&keywords=itanda+usb-c+to+mini-displayport+adapter ). I currently do not have 4k display, but I will now be getting a mini displayport cord which does support 4k in order to get this. Based off what I've seen, this should allow me to get 4k even using the Wacom Link (despite what Wacaom says). All in all, not as good as using the regular thunderbolt cable they provide (lots more cables on my desk now), but it works now.

Do you use something like this?

USB Type C Adapter,ITANDA USB C Type to Mini DisplayPort/Mini DP Adapter Cable With Aluminium Case Support 4K resolution for Apple New Macbook 2016, ChromeBook Pixel - Grey

UGH. I'm in the same boat. I might take on chance on this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N2ORP84/

It seems more reputable than other options that are shipping from China.

I just noticed that the item in the link has a male end and my Apple Thunderbolt 3–>2 adaptor is male as well. Do you think any female-to-female USB-C adaptor could break the thunderbolt compatibility? Could that throughput that I need cancel out getting the right connector? Lol

Would a product like this totally break the Thunderbolt compatibility I am looking for?
https://www.amazon.com/USB-Type-Adapter-Extension-Connector-x/dp/B071WW2K47

Found this cable today, it says it can have up to 5gbs speed. Would it work for link?


Edit: I also found this adapter today to connect them. Would this one work?

As long as it's the correct way round it should work. FWIW, I got these

E1 seems to be better used as a basic headphone amp from a clean source than a DAC, unless you're working with truly terrible onboard audio. I bought one years ago simply because my old phone's headphone output was insufficient volume to hear movie audio while on an airplane.

If you're looking for a decent cheap DAC, the Razer USB-C audio adapter is not a bad way to spend $20. You'll also need a USB-C female to USB male adapter to use it with a regular USB port.

In addition to the port cleaning suggestion, another thing that sometimes helps is to reverse the direction of the USB-C port, i.e. rotate it 180 degrees when plugging it in. One of the features of USB-C is that it is non-directional...fair enough...but I've seen mildly damaged or otherwise impaired cables that only work when plugged in one way and not the other. The one cable I have like that, I used a magic marker to put a "dot" on the working side, so that I know "which way is up".

Actually, in my case, this isn't a cable per se, but a USB-C to A adapter (this one). Which works ok, but only if I plug in the USB-C with a particular facing. The USB-C cable works fine on its own with the Switch in either direction. I haven't bothered buying a new adapter since it's such an edge case, so I just made the marker dots (metallic silver marker--easy to see on black) and deal with it.

not a switch...and I may be oversimplifying.

Type-C USB Adapter

Type-C w/ HDMI+VGA

then simply move the type-c between the 2

I don't see any problem for 5 years, unless there's a suddenly change in technology or trend. The progress of computer innovation has been slowing down lately.

It's highly unlikely that 8K video will become mainstream in 5 years. The 2018 MBA can handle 4K editing. Export time is definitely longer than a 2018 MacBook Pro, but honestly, I never just sit and wait for export, I use the time to go do something else.

Intel won't mass release any 10nm chipset until late 2019, and who knows if there'll be more delay. Even then, it will take another year or two to mature. There has been speculation that Apple may make Macbook with their own CPU. Even if that happens in a year or two, it will also take another year or two for software to maturely make the switch. Also, wifi6 is on the horizon, but ac isn't going away.

The USB-C ports on the MBA are also Thunderbolt 3 ports. When you need more performance out from the machine, you can always plug in a eGPU.

BTW, for moving onto USB-C, I bought a few USB-C to USB 3.0 adapters and just leave it attached to my devices and cables which I use the most.
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Transfer-Compatible-MacBook/dp/B078NKPGW9/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1549487928&sr=8-6&keywords=usb+c+to+usb+adapter+anker

Well, the reviews look OK on that one. What I do on Amazon is I use the review search feature to search for "MacBook Pro" in the reviews to see what people's experiences are with it. Seems like a safe order since Amazon should let you return it if something is wrong.

I forgot to include the adapter links you asked for. There are two kinds. One is a very compact adapter that is cheap and easy to carry around:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Transfer-Compatible-MacBook/dp/B078NKPGW9/

The disadvantage is the USB-A end can be so wide that it blocks the adjacent port. To solve this is another type is on a short cable to get the wide USB A-part away from the laptop body.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074DRG8RR/

As you can see these are often sold now in 2-packs for less than USD$10. Both kinds are so cheap I got a pair of both, so I have one of each type at the desk and one of each type in my bag.

Note that those adapters support USB 3 gen 1 at 5 Gbit/sec. This is fine for most things. But if maximum speed data transfers are a high priority (for example external SSD with USB 3.1 Gen 2 port), you could spend a little more to make sure you have adapter cables supporting the full 10 Gb/sec speed of the USB 3.1 Gen 2 ports on a current MacBook Pro.

Aukey is an OK brand and that should work just fine. Anker has has incredible customer service almost as good as Oculus so I try to stick with them if they have an available product but the cost a bit more.

'Best' probably involves a fancy RasberryPi setup, but I have found a process that works pretty well for me (based on advice posted here). I got a USB-A to USB-C adapter that goes directly into my phone. I have 'TeslaCam Viewer' on my phone and when I see that there are sentry events I review (and delete) them directly on my phone. That way clips don't pile up and if somebody hit the car I can potentially deal with it while they're still there.

Belkin makes a 3.5mm male audio AUX Jack to USB type A female adapter.

You can possibly use that with this: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Basesailor-Compatible-Chargers-Standard/dp/B079LYHNSR

> https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Basesailor-Compatible-Chargers-Standard/dp/B079LYHNSR

Wow. The ol' double dongle? Headphones (USB-C male) -> Dongle (USB-C female—USB-A-male) -> Dongle (USB-A female—3.55mm male)?

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Basesailor-Compatible-Chargers-Standard/dp/B079LYHNSR

https://www.amazon.com/Electop-USB-3-0-Type-Converter/dp/B07B47V967

You can try to convert to USB A from C instead. I don't know if they will work, I have never owned USB c headphones.

Maybe you can use a type a to type c adapter?

its not usb 3.1 though, but if you dont desperately need 10 gbit/s transfer speeds its fine. If you use this you have so many more options.

How long is your rtx 2070 and what are the measurements for the space thr case will be placed?

For sideloading, would this adapter work?

Are you referring to this?

​

https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Basesailor-Compatible-Chargers-Standard/dp/B079LYHNSR/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=USB+A+to+USB+C+adaptor&qid=1569790665&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Sounds similar to the problems a lot of people are having with CarPlay including myself. I was finally able to fix it with going the route that someone else suggested. It seems as if there’s a problem with cars and the new iPhones recognizing each other as the new iPhone now is designed to use a usb-c charger. If you buy a usb c female to usb male adapter and plug that into your cars usb then plug the charge cable that came with your iPhone into that while your phone is unlocked it should work like normal. Here’s the ones I picked up that work. Only $9 for a 2 pack USB C Female to USB Male Adapter

>Apple USB-C dongle

I think I found it. So this:

https://www.apple.com/shop/product/MU7E2AM/A/usb-c-to-35-mm-headphone-jack-adapter

And then this:

https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Basesailor-Compatible-Chargers-Standard/dp/B079LYHNSR/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_rm?ac_md=0-0-dXNiIGEgdG8gYw%3D%3D-ac_d_rm&crid=1BC7JIT8UI79Z&keywords=usb+a+to+c&pd_rd_i=B079LYHNSR&pd_rd_r=43272f3b-89c0-4e17-8611-5b8523a248f3&pd_rd_w=X2CYE&pd_rd_wg=xmDJh&pf_rd_p=39892eb5-25ed-41d8-aff1-b659c9b73760&pf_rd_r=9RMZEBBH3M96DY7AKSKV&psc=1&qid=1573475130&sprefix=usb+a+to+%2Caps%2C183

Here’s a USB to USB-C Adapter that will work with the Lightning-to-USB-C cable your iPhone came with. Or if you have another old iPhone Lightning Cable with the USB plug on the end that will also work without needed the adapter.

Since my laptop doesn’t have a usb c port, would this adapter work?

Edit: oh wait or am I stupid and the usb c part would go into the headset?

i would probably forgo the headphone jack on your pc and opt for an out board DAC like the $8 Apple DAC and if you don't have usb-c get this adapter then get a 3.5 to RCA splitter and you're in business. Though if you wanted to add a sub that'd be a different conversation.

Is a USB C female to USB A male adapter a legit thing, or am I going to burn my house down and kill my loved ones?

For example, this type of adapter.

You'll still need valid adb drivers. Step 3.


Also, the included cable works great with usb-c; this adapter works great with regular usb.

Ahhhh finally found it. USB-C to Mini DisplayPort Adapter, ITD ITANDA 4K Thunderbolt 3 to Mini DP Adapter Cable for Apple New MacBook 2017, ChromeBook Pixel Samsung S8(No Thunderbolt 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2ORP84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8FSTDb1555YBK

Just get a pair of adapters

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Syntech-Laptops-Chargers-Interface/dp/B0749Q9Y4N

I got this one from Best buy below. You should also check to make sure you have it plugged into a 3.0 port and also that the extender is USB 3.0 compatible as well. I also linked the us extender from Amazon below.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-bluetooth-4-0-usb-adapter-black/4884001.p?skuId=4884001

Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable (USB 3.0 Extension Cable / USB 3 Extension Cable) in Black 6 Feet - Available 3FT - 10FT in Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7S2FRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FQC-AbJFAYJGV

Oh look micro USB to type c adapter. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151RKYBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fIGvyb7CJSB1J