(Part 3) Best car care products according to redditors
We found 5,373 Reddit comments discussing the best car care products. We ranked the 1,429 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
Or if you want to pay 3x the price and 10$ shipping you can live in Canada: https://www.amazon.ca/Meguiars-G10916-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0002V9IFU
Meguiars is cheap and very effective. Smells great, too!
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10916-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0002V9IFU
I would have taken more photos but I didn't set out with the intention of making a post; however, when I saw the results I knew I had to.
Like I said, this mini van only set me back $300. But just because it's a cheap turd doesn't mean you can't take some pride in it and at least put a ribbon on it.
Anyways, I'll add some more details left out of the post.
First I mixed up regular ole dish soap and water and grabbed some 1000 grit wet/dry sand paper, dunked it in the solution and let it soak while I taped off my headlights. I don't think you have to let it soak, but that's what I did. Once I finished taping off the lights, I started wet sanding and just redunked as needed for adequate lubrication.
Now I've read some posts on here about people saying it's easier to see when you're done sanding if you go in one direction for a certain grit and the opposite in another so you can see sanding lines. I didn't do that either. I just sanded it til I felt it was smooth and/or had been doing it for a couple minutes; up, down, left, right, circles. Whatever. It worked out for me.
Repeat exact same procedure for 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper.
Now, if you've never done this before you might start to get nervous, because at this stage your headlights look (somehow) even worse than when you started. Fret not my friend. Patience is a virtue.
Now I have a DA polisher, but these headlights are narrow. So I opted at just purchasing a generic named 3" backing plate, drill adapter and pad combo set off amazon. Some of the reviews said it wasn't the greatest. But that was fine by me. I just wanted them for this headlight. Those reviewers are wrong. I think they were thinking you could do an entire vehicle with these 3" pads. The pads and backing plate were high quality and for that price, even if they weren't I wouldn't have been all that upset. I highly recommend these.
I used the two flat top oranges pads for this project. First I used M105. Polished til it "flashed" then buffed it off with a microfiber towel. Switched to my other orange pad and polished with M205 following the same procedure.
Then I stood in awe of how great they came out. Did a wipe down with isopropyl alcohol, and two coats of collinite 845 that I applied with some cheap microfiber applicators for future uv protection.
Then I went and excitedly rushed my girlfriend outside to see. She was impressed but decidedly less than me.
Also, while I was doing this, a man approached me and asked me how much I'd charge to do his car. I talked with him a bit, and informed him that for the price I would charge to do his one car he'd be better off doing some research, buying his own supplies and just learning a new skill. He thought about it and excitedly told me he already had a drill and that he decided he'd do it. He went on to say he was also going to do not just his car, but also his mom's car and his girlfriend's car. He wrote down everything I said! Haha,I hope his come out as well as mine!
Edit: formatting/spelling
https://www.amazon.com/Viking-Car-Care-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18016-Clear-Rubbing-Compound/dp/B006FUT13G/
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Clear-Coat-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154/
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Wash/Wipe the area with damp cloth to remove dirt
Don't use too much product.
Too much will make it to slippery.
Err on the side of caution if it's still got scratches repeat the whole process again
$20 and 20 mins. will make a big difference.
​
​
Post a before
and after picture
You can fix these if you like.
Leather filler will take care of the cracking (though yours isn't bad) and a heat gun or hair dryer can be moved over the surface to shrink the leather and tighten it up in the seat and back. I'd do that before it gets much worse. There are youtube videos about it.
Also, keep the leather cleaned and conditioned regularly! I've used many different products, and this is my favorite. Leatherique is better, but much harder to use. Lexol is also quite good, but I like the Meguiar's a little better.
Edit: Forgot to mention that any leather cleaner and conditioner you use will need some agitation to really get it worked in and doing its best work.
http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-1115-Leather-Cleaner-Spray/dp/B0002F9YIC/ref=zg_bs_15718561_2
Definitely check out /r/AutoDetailing where I learned my method.
The way I do it:
Equipment:
Washing:
Rinseless washing is great when your car is mildly to semi-dirty. This means if it's mostly just dust on your car this is great. Otherwise if it's caked with mud this won't work. You'll have to go somewhere to hose your car off with water first so it's not as dirty.
Clay Bar/Nanoskin:
Note: This is only necessary if there are actually micro-contaminants. I would do it on a new car regardless since it has been sitting on a lot. On a normal basis you only need to do when your car doesn't feel glass smooth after a wash. Usually no more than 1-2 times a year.
Sealant/wax:
After you're done with claying your paint is clean so you'll want to put wax/sealant on it to protect it. It'll make your car nice and shiny too.
Start with an isopropyl alcohol wipe. What I do is dunk a towel in the alcohol solution and wipe down every panel and drying after it. You can also just fill another spray bottle with it and spray. This will get rid of oil/wax/sealant so the sealant goes directly on the paint. Then just apply the sealant/wax on following the instructions. With opti-seal you just spray and wipe. With some other items you'll need to apply and wait to cure and buff out any remaining wax/sealant.
For wheels and tires I suggest you just check out the wiki on autodetailing. I just simply wipe off the tires with ONR but ONR isn't the best at getting oil. I'm too lazy though to worry about it too much as long as the wheels look clean it's fine with me.
I'm lazy and do a rinseless wash 1-2 times (usually 1) a month. Some do it weekly. I put sealant on every 3-4 months or so. I've only clayed my current car once so far.
/u/jwinskowski please feel free to PM me at anytime for this. EDIT: if your tank is MATTE don't use products not designed for it! (Shampoo is fine for either)
TLDR rinse bucket and bucket with soap. use auto products. dont drop your MF cloths.
I'm not familiar with Guzzi's clearcoat so ill play towards the cautious side.
Personally I'd pick up a shampoo/conditioner and a basic wash mit thats microfiber made (attracts dirt better and wont mar your question)
(I can recommend 3D pink shampoo. cheap AND I love it)
next up a light compound (you can use meguiars ultimate compound. cheap inexpensive and hard to mess up) this brings out that POP in paint pretty easy to use with a hand applicator which are also cheap :)
next upppp paint polish. this is VERY subjective. I prefer mckees37 stuff but its more expensive than most like. I can also recommend meguiars ultimate polish. good and inexpensive :)
after wards you'll need a wax. meguiars ultimate liquid wax is a great starter and once again inexpensive. (I prefer trademark extender/policoat form mckees37) easy on easy off if you're taking you're time.
afterwards you can call it quits and bam you're done.
or keep going and seal your paint to keep that POP lasting. I HIGHLY recommend collinite 845 as its inexpensive as hell and STUPID easy to apply!!
also Mckees 37 SIO 2 ceramic coating is even easier but $.
then theres coatings. you can use something like Cquarts or even carpro....I personally juse use SIO2 from mckees37 currently. spray on wash off bam. not as effective but beyond stupid easy.
oh and also pick up some microfiber cloths of your choice. theres no right/wrong for them other than DONT DROP EM AND KEEP EM CLEAN.
links to products named
ultimate megs wax
ultimate polish megs
sio 2 coating 10% off ad warning
trademark extender wax spray
3D pink car soap/shampoo
collinite 845
ultimate compound megs
ultimate liquid wax -bigger AG carried
megs ult polish AG carried
Autogeek also price matches to a fair extent! and IF you're local you can pick up. :D
these microfibers are damn nice but $
I personally use these and they're lit. 16 pack and heavy duty enough to last a while
wash mitt I use
even NEW I can highly recommend clay baring your paint dis or the kit if you're new
oh and IF your brake pads literally ooze brake dust....this stuff takes time but takes care of the dust easily linky smells WAY better than carpro even at a lower concentration :p
/u/solitudechirs thanks for the tag
/u/CG_Ops dat wall o text
I took delivery of my 3 in February of this year (also multi-coat red) and did something very similar to what you are doing. I did have full front PPF (XPEL) installed the day after I took delivery, and then I drove the car for 3 months until temps warmed up. I did the following DYI:
A friend of mine bought a White Model 3 and I did these same steps for him in July (he bought all the materials and the beer :) Both cars are looking great.
If you have access to a drill, an eraser wheel is by far the easiest way. Just make sure the surrounding paint is clean to prevent scratches.
This is the one I have, I used it to remove body molding adhesive:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00488DDB8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can buy everything online, though it's easier to go to a harbor freight with a coupon if you have one. There are plenty of polishers you can buy online of course, but none are as cheap (at least with decent quality) as the harbor freight model. You can of course buy a much better polisher at your local lowes / home depot however unless you have a lot more use for it it's probably not worth it over the harbor freight one (a good polisher will cost you $200+). Everything else you can find at any auto parts store, or maybe even walmart.
Here's some links
Basic steps:
You are done! In most environments the duragloss will last 6+ months. If you keep your car protected with it, you won't need to do the cutting/polishing again (or at least, not for a while).
The trickiest part of the whole process is the compounding and polishing. Here are some helpful videos.
And that's about it! It's easier if you don't do touch ups, but I figure if I'm going to put this much work in it, might as well get them. And if you do it right (with careful application and then sanding) the touch ups look nearly flawless (most look terrible because people don't bother to sand them flush).
edit: two other tips...
If you're using the quik wax, you might as well just go get a gallon of Meguiars Synthetic Express Spray Wax. It's a great quick wax, drying aid, door jamb wipe, and you can use it on plastic and rubber without worry as well. Google some videos. I think Auto Fetish has some vids about how useful it can be for off-label uses.
Meguiar's D15601 Synthetic X-Press Spray Wax - 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005JPJMI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z0Uzzb9KMWRYJ
And to your original question-yeah, spray waxes are good for a finishing shine and a bit of temporary protection.
I have read (even in non-Tesla forums) that using something like this helps the window from sticking to the rubber seals.
303 Rubber Seal Protectant and Conditioner for Weather Seals - 3.4 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T44D1R2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JBh7Bb00V3DRV
There are many options on amazon that help with freezing. Or so they say.
As a professional auto detailer, this is what I do to keep the bike looking spiffy with minimal risk of swirling the paint.
First, I use a pressure washer on my bike, it's a 2000 psi washer so no real risk of damage to anything and works great for getting those bugs out of the radiator and tiny little crevices as well as a good majority of the dirt which is just less to grind into the paint when you finally hit it with the ONR (https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NRWW2012Q-Rinse-Wash-Wax/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469797720&sr=1-1&keywords=onr). A hose would work also, just not as effective. (If you have the money, go buy yourself a foam cannon with some chemical guys honey dew soap and save yourself some time)
Then I grab 2 buckets with Grit Guards in each. (https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-IAI503-Guard-Insert/dp/B00ABYVTZA/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469797070&sr=1-1&keywords=grit+guard) and fill one with ONR and the other is a rinse bucket. The washing part is pretty simple. Buy yourself a microfiber wash mitt, dip it in the bucket with ONR and scrub an area of the bike down. Rinse it off and the rinse bucket and repeat until the bike is clean. Pro tip: Do your paint first and other areas that can be easily swirled and work your way to the dirtier areas on the bottom of the bike that are more likely to have the mitt pick up dirt.
I dry the bike with a leaf blower dedicated to detailing (basically one that has never been used in reverse to suck leaves up) to get all the hard to reach places dry. You can also use a standard microfiber drying towel for this.
Once it is dry, I'll hit the chrome with a chrome polish and put a coat of wax on (collinite 845 is my go to, but any mequiers wax is plenty good) and hit the mirrors and headlight with some glass cleaner.
If you have a chain, put some wax on that bad boy since you most likely just washed it all off. I don't put any kind of vinyl or leather protection on the seat because shit is always slippery. I know wheels look nice when they are nice and shinny, but you will eat shit if you put on any kind of wheel shine.
Fellow male SoCal transplant here! First, get some flexible measuring tape, the kind used by tailors. Use this to measure your neck, chest, inseam, etc. Do this several times to make sure that you have a good set of measurements. Accurate measurements are key, since looser clothing means more heat leaving your body.
These measurements will make online shopping a hell of a lot easier. Winter clothes are expensive, so Amazon is your friend. I'll post a few of the things that I rely on for the coldest days below, all of which have been godsends. I have terrible circulation in my hands, feet, and ears so your mileage may vary, but you'd be surprised how much cold wind hurts your ears. My east coast native friends make fun of some of these things, but I'll take non-misery over judgment when it's ten degrees.
Carhartt makes some of the warmest, and cheapest, winter items. They're not fashionable, but they're durable and affordable. This hat is $8 and it's been warm enough to keep my ears and scalp toasty during walks to work. The Carhartt scarf is also a godsend. If you're anything like me, you never realized that a scarf actually served a functional purpose, but it'll make any coat significantly warmer by preventing heat loss. Carhartt and others sell wool socks that you'll be glad to have if you walk to work.
This next item is the dorkiest by far: an electric jacket. Just like an electric blanket with some added shame. There are some more high-end versions, but a few power tool companies make them for affordable prices. They're waterproof (ie snowproof), carry a charge for hours, and have different heat settings. [This Bosch one is $150] (http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PSJ120L-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Softshell/dp/B00E1RWH72/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413778229&sr=8-1&keywords=electric+jacket) and has good reviews. Milwaukee sells a newer model that also includes an in-pocket USB charger, which I recently saw at a Home Depot around here. The big advantage of the electric jacket is the heat settings: because it can be off or on low/medium/high, you're essentially carrying around four jackets. I never would have made it through Inauguration without this jacket.
Also important: gloves! Don't skimp on these. You'll want a pair that are waterproof but pliable enough that they won't make it impossible to
tie your shoes or pull out your metro card. I highly recommend these smartphone gloves. The fingertips are lined with silver threads for conductivity, so you'll be able to use your phone/trackpad in the cold. These are a great value, but they'll be the least forgiving of poor measurements so be careful to get this right!
Lastly, long underwear. I've never met a suit that kept my legs warm, so these merino wool underwear are amazing. A good pair of these will keep you warm on the coldest days but be breathable and soft enough to keep on under your slacks all day (or you can remove them at work, of course).
Most of these things are for the coldest days. You won't need anything like them most of the time, but you'll be glad when you have them. You'll also want an overcoat somewhat like this, some more stylish scarves, etc. For dress shoes, just be vigilant about cleaning the salt off! I'd never run into road salt before moving here, but there will be months where it's on all the sidewalks and it just ruins leather. Get some leather conditioner (I like this stuff) and apply it to your shoes regularly to keep them in good condition. Dry leather becomes cracked leather which becomes useless leather.
I hope this helps!
https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-Original-contains-non-toxic-biodegradable/dp/B00M0TLQ66/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537385553&sr=8-3&keywords=rust+remover
Evapo-Rust is really good too. I found an entire cart of Snap-On tools in a warehouse I moved into. Evapo-Rust did an unbelievable job.
Leather honey is pretty great stuff. I also like lexol leather cleaner if it's really dirty.
In any case, you should clean it and then lubricate it soon afterwards.
That looks like an older coach bag. If it is, that'll last a lifetime, or longer--I inherited a couple of my grandma's vintage coach bags from the 70s when she passed.
I got it off a post here , applied two coats of Obenaufs oil leather conditioner. Just cleaned them before application with soap let them dry for a day then applied. They look crazy nice in person. Here’s a link to the product I used. Just a tip apply quickly then remove any excess
Obenauf's Leather Oil Condition... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EAW57E?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
My EDC.
My favorite method is an eraser wheel.
Only hand wash, all the time, lovingly, with microfiber everything. It's going to be your new hobby, and on a car this size, takes less time than you would think to do it right.
Here is my amazon list, a lot of stuff has subscribe and save deals, everything Chemical Guys has been top notch.
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_493-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-10&keywords=chemical+guys
http://www.amazon.com/303-30520-Convertible-Fabric-Cleaning/dp/B000A8JNF0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226066&sr=8-1&keywords=303+aerospace+protectant+convertible
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_506_12-Professional-Microfiber/dp/B00A8MZ7IA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CWS_301-Citrus-Concentrated/dp/B004K9KETY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-6&keywords=chemical+guys
http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225985&sr=8-1&keywords=collinite+insulator+wax OR http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-No-Super-Doublecoat-Auto/dp/B000AP8DZY/ref=pd_sbs_263_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=51Nde%2B7iakL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0KRY8VA4QS2RZE3XG1R5
http://www.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226014&sr=8-2&keywords=microfiber+applicator
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-TVD_109_16-Sprayable-Dressing/dp/B001TI1F5Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226032&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys+tire+shine
http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-155700-Wheel-Brush/dp/B001GJ3DZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226178&sr=8-1&keywords=tire+brush
Gave up on wet tumbling and use dry media but ad a cap full of Nu Finish Liquid Car polish.
Brass turns out looking like brand new!
​
https://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid-Car-Polish/dp/B000BPSW7C
Here's all the stuff I use :)
These boots are seriously worth every penny you spent.
White's boots or Nicks boots are the industry standard for forestry workers and wildland firefighters. I would guess that 75% or more of the field going employees and firefighters and the US Forest Service have at least one pair of White's or Nicks.
It looks like you take good care of the leather, but for people who do not have boots or may be looking into getting a pair, make sure you are using Obenauf's Leather Oil . These boots could last another 10 if you rebuild them a few more times and continue to care for the leather.
/u/daniell61 is all about that detailing. Here's a recent comment from him
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do you know if that [bike] is primarily plastic or primarily metal?
for metal polishes (non painted) I can recommend marine 31's metal polish. shit works wonders on oxidized metals!!! (its my go to for non painated)
leather? any car marketed leather cleaner would be fine. I prefer mckees37 or meguiars to be fair.
for plastics I like this. a lot
leahter cleaner here
for learning these microfibers are a good cost effective start and you wont be hurt when they die and you replace them.
I can recommend any mckees37 towels or the rag company microfibers.
this or 3D pink soap (dirt cheap but i love it) is a great soap for washing without stripping waxes!
if you're like me and dont have time to clean...
once you're done. spray this and wash it off and boom bam you're set to go and have a good quality glass silia coating! here
I like mckees products a fair bit ;)
for sake of easy ass waxing I like extender wax but I do also like meguiars quik wax. that stuffs damn cheap but good. sadly its carnuba only :(
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here's another one
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TLDR rinse bucket and bucket with soap. use auto products. dont drop your MF cloths.
Personally I'd pick up a shampoo/conditioner and a basic wash mit thats microfiber made (attracts dirt better and wont mar your question)
(I can recommend 3D pink shampoo. cheap AND I love it)
next up a light compound (you can use meguiars ultimate compound. cheap inexpensive and hard to mess up) this brings out that POP in paint pretty easy to use with a hand applicator which are also cheap :)
next upppp paint polish. this is VERY subjective. I prefer mckees37 stuff but its more expensive than most like. I can also recommend meguiars ultimate polish. good and inexpensive :)
after wards you'll need a wax. meguiars ultimate liquid wax is a great starter and once again inexpensive. (I prefer trademark extender/policoat form mckees37) easy on easy off if you're taking you're time.
afterwards you can call it quits and bam you're done.
or keep going and seal your paint to keep that POP lasting. I HIGHLY recommend collinite 845 as its inexpensive as hell and STUPID easy to apply!!
also Mckees 37 SIO 2 ceramic coating is even easier but $.
then theres coatings. you can use something like Cquarts or even carpro....I personally juse use SIO2 from mckees37 currently. spray on wash off bam. not as effective but beyond stupid easy.
oh and also pick up some microfiber cloths of your choice. theres no right/wrong for them other than DONT DROP EM AND KEEP EM CLEAN.
links to products named
ultimate megs wax
ultimate polish megs
sio 2 coating 10% off ad warning
trademark extender wax spray
3D pink car soap/shampoo
collinite 845
ultimate compound megs
ultimate liquid wax -bigger AG carried
megs ult polish AG carried
Autogeek also price matches to a fair extent! and IF you're local you can pick up. :D
these microfibers are damn nice but $
I personally use these and they're lit. 16 pack and heavy duty enough to last a while
wash mitt I use
even NEW I can highly recommend clay baring your paint dis or the kit if you're new
oh and IF your brake pads literally ooze brake dust....this stuff takes time but takes care of the dust easily linky smells WAY better than carpro even at a lower concentration :p
I just embarked on this journey and I'm having a great time.
With the help of some members of this sub, I purchased 5 planes on eBay -- 2 Stanley #4's (both Type 13), 2 Stanley #5's (Type 9 Record and Type 17), and a Keen Kutter 4. I then asked a bunch of questions here and did a bunch of research on plane hunting and restoration. Special thanks to /u/abnormal_human and /u/Graphus for their comprehensive and helpful answers. Once they are all complete, I plan to use them all a bit and then pick two to keep and resell the rest.
Some sites that helped me a bunch were:
http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/start_flowchart.php (Dating & Typing)
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan2.htm (Basic Info -- Numbering and such)
And here are some video's that carried me through the process in a playlist I made: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLi-n7reKpXtVQzwcksAUsVg8wbeLRrH2u (pay special attention to WOmadeOD's video. It's 2 hours and the entire process.)
And here's a set just for sharpening: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLi-n7reKpXtVbQcKXTppUb8vpS6Eal11h
Some important tools and materials are:
I decided not to refinish the wooden bits on the planes and instead just clean them up because I wanted to keep some of the age look to the planes. I re-painted the beds and sides of the frogs if the plane's original color was black and it was in poor condition.
I had planned to fill in all the albums with descriptions and make a post sometime this week when I am completely done but I might as well share what I have now.
The cleaning, derusting, and painting are done and I've completely finished all the planes. I've started on another set of 10 planes now. I'll group them all and make a post directly to the subreddit once they're all 100% complete.
Albums
-------
For some tips on picking a used plane, /u/abnormal_human told me:
> Generally, the most desirable "types" for stanley bench planes are 11-15, but I wouldn't have an issue with a nice 9 or 10.
> Looking at the timeline[1] again, it's type 12-15 that I like.
> Type 9 is when the better frog/body interface shows up, which makes it easier to adjust the frog. I'm not interested in anything earlier than this.
> Type 12, you get a bigger brass adjustment wheel, which I like.
> Type 16 was the beginning of the end--the ogee shaped frog + the kidney shaped hole in the lever cap appears at this point. This is when I tune out.
> That's not to say that you have to be this picky. There are lots of usable planes outside of what I'm looking for. > There's just so many moderately priced planes out there that it's easy to pick+choose and get what you want if you pay attention to the details.
> ... the dating chart works pretty well for the common bench planes (#3-8).
It is common for plane restorers to purchase a replacement blade, sharpen and use it, and keep the original in a safe place for collect-ability. For replacement blades as per /u/scewikea:
> This is the answer I got when I asked before -- a few people around here swear that the Woodriver blades are really good.
Here is a quick run-down of the restoration steps I took. I plan to embellish and elaborate more on them when everything is 100% complete in a full post to this subreddit:
Now, I have a set of 9 more planes -- a Dunlap #5, another Stanley #4 Type 19, an unbranded #4, and 4 Stanley Block planes (110, 2 x 220, 9 1/2, and an unmarked baby one), and a Sears block plane -- that I'm in the middle of restoring. After they're done, I have a nice Stanley #7 Type 13 Sweet Heart waiting to begin the restore. It's a great facet of this hobby!
--------------------------------------------
I'd be glad to share anything I've learned and answer any questions I can. If you wanna shoot me a PM, we can chat on gchat?
I first
I use 303 for this. They make a product specifically for rubber trim but I just use the regular protectant spray on a microfiber towel. Works well.
A few simple ones: No eating in the car. No Drinking in the car. No smoking in the car. Empty all clutter from the car when you leave, everytime.
As far as waxing goes, it depends on the wax you use and where you live. The closer to the equator you live the more you should wax. If you live near salt water you should wash more frequently. I have have good luck with a product called Nu Finish. I apply it about every 4 months, but I live in South Florida. Also, get an orbital buffer. They are cheap and save a LOT of elbow grease when buffing.
Armor-all or another plastic protectant is a must on the interior. Rain-X is nice too but not needed for actual care.
Well clearly they didn't keep polishing it even though it was still being used. Because of that, with gradual use, it started to get more and more scuffed.
Someone tweet this at D-Bro and the game should be good until Season 1 starts.
maybe some of this will do the trick?
I use Lexol:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QFORK8/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Actually, this is just from a wash and Chemical Guys Blacklight
About a month ago I did a full detail which included:
All applied with a Porter Cable DA polisher and some high quality Micro Fiber towels
Hey, guys! A girl I went to high school with's boyfriend had her take him to get his 2 German Shepards from the vet. This horror was the result.....
In all honestly, it wasn't that annoying to clean at all. [This guy] (https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_S06-Professional-Removal/dp/B0042B4B3U) was my go-to for this entire detail. It actually made it so easy, even when I wasn't dealing with hair. It's great for getting to dirt that your vacuum head can't get to. You can just "sweep" everything underneath the seats into a more accessible location and it's cake.
Quick process for those of you that wanna know (it's pretty much new, so I didn't have to be aggressive with anything):
Heat the glue with a heat gun, or at the very least use a hair dryer (but that won't be as effective). Once you're able to pull an edge up, keep working your way around with a plastic scraper or dental floss. Don't just start pulling it off with your hands, as you might take some paint with it.
Once the piece is removed and you just have some adhesive left on the body panel, you can use adhesive remover and a lot of elbow grease, or use an eraser pad that has a drill adapter to make quick work of it.
You should be able to simply glue that back on. Can you press it back into place with your hands? Does it sit nice and flat? Someone can probably recommend a better adhesive, but I've had really good luck with 3M Spray Adhesive.
As for the glass damage, I would use a silicone sealer like this: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81730-Flowable-Silicone-Windshield/dp/B000BKEBO0
If you can apply it from the inside that's probably best. Hopefully the outer face of the glass isn't damaged at all. The sealant can fill in the back and keep it from getting worse/keep water from getting in behind the mirror.
I do this all the time. I use Nu Finish car polish (http://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid-Car-Polish/dp/B000BPSW7C) it has a polymer base that can fill in small scratches and repair scuffs for it actually fills in the space of the crack with transparent plastic. It works great on minor stuff and with a good buff wheel you can get most scratches out.
There is also heavy duty version http://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-NFS-05-Scratch-Doctor/dp/B000AME50Y/ref=pd_sim_auto_1 have not tried it on screens though.
Rain X is exactly what you are looking for. Rain repellent that is clear and leaves no marks on the visor.
I’ve used both Chamberlains leather milk and Obenauf’s Leather Oil. The Obenaufs is more for restoration and the leather milk is better for maintenance. Both are affordable on Amazon.
Get yourself one of these. Eraser Wheel if you have a drill, these work great.
Here are a couple videos that'll help with the use of products.
clay bar
everything clay bar, compound, and polish
As for the products I use/like I personally like the Meguiar's Ultimate compound and polish. However there are a ton of other options that do as well/or better. For clay I use a range of products, but for your use I would say Chemical Guys clay bar kit would probably do what you need.
Just an FYI you don't need to invest in a dual action polisher to compound and polish, it can be done by hand and save more than a couple dollars...but it'll take a while. I'd say start with clay and see where you're at afterwords. If you still have a bunch of paint transfer then go from there. Another thing I've heard will remove paint transfer (i've never tried it personally) is a carnauba wax, so if you have some around you can give that a go first.
If you do need paint work (it probably won't be as severe as a key) but this video will probably help if you want to try and tackle it yourself.
I'm not convinced that any of them are much better than the others, especially with a light application like this. Hand Tool Rescue uses Evapo-Rust and it seems to work pretty well. They make a gel that would probably work well in this application since you can just brush it on the head and not have to soak the wood in the liquid form.
Go to Amazon and order this (I like Meg's products),
This should run you about $345 for everything and have you setup to take care of your car for a long time. You can find a 20% discount code online for harbor freight to bring the price down $55 for the DA. Go to home depot and buy a couple buckets and you will be good to go.
Edit: To add, I went to Lowes and bought a cheap inline sprayer for my hose and it works fine for foaming up the vehicle, plus it only costs $5.
Edit2: If you are going to downvote me please post why you don't like my recommendation.
You can get replacement tires for many G1 toys. Just search Amazon for "rubber tires model car" and there are plenty of options. Just measure the size of the tires you need and find something suitable.
You can also find diecast toy cars at places like Walmart for $2-3 that have rubber tires that are compatible with some G1 toys.
You can also use some rubber seal protectant to keep the tires of your toys from drying out. Just use it sparingly.
https://www.amazon.com/303-Rubber-Protectant-Conditioner-Weather/dp/B00T44D1R2
You can also get replacement tires for RID Prime on Shapeways:
Seems like you're in good shape. Do you have a wax or sealant yet?
I use these but honestly I rarely use them.
I've always struggled to keep my vehicles clean because 1) they were always old, 2) I've lived in condos, 3) car washes did a terrible job / detailers charged too much, and 4) I didn't realize you could do all of this yourself pretty effectively.
When I bought a new truck at the beginnging of the year, I randomly stumbled upon an Ammo NYC video and the nerd / clean-freak was intrigued. A couple dozen videos later, and I was hooked. Shout out to Larry for your passion - thank you for the insane amount of information on your channel. (Wish I could afford all of your products, or that you had some of them on Amazon!).
Living in a condo, I have to swing by my local coin wash and take up a bay with a few buckets during off-peak hours, but I've gotten it down to 1.5 hours and looking like this every time.
I've only been doing this for a few months, but thought I'd share the products I've researched and selected based on reviews and costs. Hope this helps save someone time!
TOOLS
BUCKETS
CHEMICALS
INTERIOR
WHEELS
TOWELS
I've been pretty happy with Optimum No Rinse Wash & Wax
Lexol leather cleaner (orange bottle) is available at auto parts stores, walmart, amazon-Lexol Cleaner
Once its clean, it wouldn't hurt to have some conditioner around. There are many but lexol's a good product. Lexol Conditioner brown bottle.
So excited to be joining the Tesla family today (delivery in Costa Mesa this afternoon!)
I’m getting a TM3 with black interior. Does anyone know if those seats are also vegan leather, or are they real leather? Any idea if this is safe to clean the seats?
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002V9IFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Are armorall wipes safe for the dashboard?
honestly, i wouldn't get either of those. yeah they're both good, but you really don't need all of that.
what i use:
griot's garage clay
meguairs soap
mothers cleaner wax
nu finish
and of course a (or a couple) 5 gallon buckets with a grit guard , which is completely not necessary, but highly recommended by professional detailers. i don't use one, and my car comes out fine. and a good, soft wash mitt. either a good sponge or a wheel brush for your wheels would be needed as well.
my once a year routine is as follows:
wash, claybar, nu polish, cleaner wax
usually wash every 2 weeks or so, and rewax every 6 weeks or so. if i did a bunch of off roading and the paint is gritty i'll clay as needed, but usually it's once a year.
also head over to /r/autodetailing for a lot of tips. beware though that they use a lot of very high end products, and circle jerk over polishing and getting perfect reflections. if all you're looking to do is keeping your paint in good condition, then what i do is just fine. if you're interested in keeping your paint better than factory, follow them.
Please don't sno-seal them, it will dull the colour so much and not be worth it at all.
I don't know where you reside, but unless you're literally walking through ankle deep wet-slush every day for kilometers, sno-seal is not needed. Just keep them well oiled with Obanauf's Leather Oil, repeating every couple weeks or so, and the leather will take care of itself. Clean salt off them with a damp paper towel as needed.
I have two pairs of Wolverine 1000 Mile boots, and it's winter/wet/slushy for 6 months of the year where I live. If the boots are conditioned with normal boot oil as above, the chromexcel has pretty good water-resisting properties already. I've walked through bouts of ankle deep water, slush, mud and snow, and never have had a problem with getting my feet wet.
Sno-Seal and Obanauf's HDLP will completely dull the colour of your boots, and obscure most of the "pull-up" and patina that makes those 1k miles you have right now look so great. It took me 2 years to wear off most of the HDLP I soaked my rust coloured 1k's in, and they look far better now that the coating has worn off and are no less water resistant.
I have one of these, works really well for getting hair out of fabric, then any portable vacuum should be able to clean it up quick. Or just buy a bunch of lint rollers if you don't want to carry around a vacuum, which seems like kind of a pain.
https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_S06-Professional-Removal/dp/B0042B4B3U
i think those scratches will come out. they dont seem so bad. you can confirm this by running your nail around them and seeing if it catches your fingernail. youll be better off if they dont really catch.
i think i would go with this car kit from meguiars
as well as ultimate compound
and some polish
i would then wash the car, clay the car, scratchx the scratches, plastx the headlights, compound the car, polish the car, then wax the car.
that will definitely do you. if you have more money, check out a bunch of the sidebar lists for more stuff. maximus's pretty much has it all.
edit: and maybe a couple of these mf applicators. i think they are easier to use and spread the product and work it in really well.
Rain X, always
A gallon of car wash soap to last you a few years: https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CWS_301-Citrus-Concentrated/dp/B004K9KETY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509988980&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys+wash+and+gloss
A gallon of spray wax to last you a few years:
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Spray/dp/B005JPJMI2
Gallon of leather cleaner: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D18001-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0006SH4PU
A 36-pack of microfiber towels to last you maybe a year.. depending on how many kids you're carrying (is it bad I assume you're carring kids in this daycare limosine?) , keep all towels separate for duty: https://www.amazon.com/Kirkland-Signature-Premium-Microfiber-36-Pack/dp/B00GARQKII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509988902&sr=8-1&keywords=kirkland+microfiber
Gallon sized products are the way to go for general cleaning. Glass cleaner concentrates that dilute 10:1, Wheel cleaners (dilute), all purpose cleaners (dilute), Leather cleaners, spray waxes, etc.
Maintenance:
Buy a 5 or 10 pack of oil filters on amazon. Also funnel, oil rags, and every type of oil filter wrench.
Buy full synthetic oil at walmart or on amazon.
Install a fumoto oil drain valve for easy oil changes.
Rhino ramps to drive up on.
r/autodetailing will have more information on specifics here.
What I would try is to let it dry completely, then go pick up some of this Lexol cleaner, and then some of their conditioner and use both to get it cleaned up and conditioned. This gets my seats like new pretty consistently and makes the inside of your car smell fantastic.
Try Lexol Cleaner with a toothbrush to clean the white stitching.
I apologize in advance for this long post. None of these are "must gets", but they are what I got for my 2016 Premium forester. I'm posting this for my own future reference as well as to help some people who are wondering what accessories might be good for their new forester. I highly recommend ordering from Jackie from Annapolis Subaru @ 443-837-1422 as she can get you some good prices on the subaru accessories as well as WeatherTech products! I saved on WeatherTech shipping costs (~$20) by ordering through Jackie and the warranty is the same as if I had bought them through their website.
Please note that some of these accessory links are for my specific car year, model and configuration. I have a 2016 Premium forester without eyesight (affects the Covercraft/heatshield sunshade - they also have eyesight compatible sunshades!).
Also, I personally didn't get my windows tinted, but I think that is something that you should seriously consider doing :)
Speaker kit
Tweeter kit
WeatherTech DigitalFit floorliner (1st & 2nd row)
WeatherTech cargo/trunk liner (without bumper protector)
Weather Tech TechCare floorliner and floormat Cleaner/Protector Kit
Gorilla mud flaps
Covercraft's UVS100 sunscreen - use promo code FREESHIP
Exterior Auto Dimming Mirror w/ Approach Lighting
Luggage Compartment Cover (manual rear gate)
Rear bumper cover
Auto-Dimming Mirror with Compass and HomeLink
Rear Seat Back Protector
Two Home Depot 5 gallon homer bucket
Heatshield sunshade (driver/passenger, second row, rear windshield, sunroof) - note that their website only shows only one side window (driver/passenger), you need to call in to ask them to add the second row side window ones - on my invoice it says part #1425S-A and #1425S-B
Antigravity Batteries AG-XP-10 Multi-Function Power Supply and Jump Starter (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)
Viair 77P Portable Compressor Kit (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)
Amazon stuff:
EZ Pass Holder for VA Flex
Aux cable
Stickershield (parking stickers, etc)
Dropstop seat gap filler (driver/passenger side)
Door panel removal kit (for speaker kit install)
Two grit guards
Microfiber Drying towel
Microfiber cloths (3 pack)
Car wash shampoo
Wheel brush
Resqme (window breaker/seatbelt cutter)
Wheel cleaner
Microfiber wash mitt
Reindeer costume for Christmas
Headrest coat hanger
Road reflective triangles
Duct tape
Odor eliminator
Tire air pressure gauge
OBDII Scanner (Bluetooth)
First aid kit
The potential hazards are that if you accidentally missed a spot while washing, you have a very high chance of dragging dirt across your paint. Best case scenario you get a light swirl mark or streak. Worst case scenario you grind away much deeper into your clear coat causing damage, thus requiring paint correction using compounding and polishing.
It's just best to avoid it and use a better option such as a quality micro fiber cloth designed for the purposes of drying paint.
EDIT: /u/theragcompany these guys are pretty awesome. I'd recommend a waffle weave towel like this http://www.theragcompany.com/products/premium-microfiber-16-x-24-waffle-weave-towel.html but other manufacturers make them as well. https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X2000-Magnet-Microfiber-Drying/dp/B0009IQZFM/
I use this
you have a variety of choices as far as silicone types, most notably flowable silicone and rtv silicone.
flowable, such as Permatex's flowable windshield sealant, has an added benefit of self leveling meaning you don't have to shape the material to fit the response groove as it's thin enough to fill in the area like a liquid. Cures into a solid material after 24 hours or so.
rtv silicone, such as Permatex ultra black or Permatex high-temp red, can be more robust of a material after curing however it requires a little more manual labor as you have to shape the silicone in the groove and make it flush/level. Manual shaping means it'll be a little more messy depending on how you go about it but it's really not too bad once you get the hang of it.
Personally I prefer rtv silicone for the variety of formulations I can use but most beginners will probably use flowable since it's far more convenient to pour.
when i first started out i went down to my local hardware store and picked up a small tube of rtv silicone, brand not a factor, and just started practicing on a couple of throws that I had really worn down the response on.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81730-Flowable-Silicone-Windshield/dp/B000BKEBO0
I've used this to stop slippage between my air mattress and my silnylon bivy floor and it works great, but not sure how it would work on polycro.
This is what most people use https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81730-Flowable-Silicone-Windshield/dp/B000BKEBO0
Nu Finish Liquid Car Polish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPSW7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2tZTAbNVCW14X
Lexol Leather Conditioner
Leather reacts adversely to being soaked in water and then dried. Think about how your hands dry out if you wash them a ton. Same concept. If you're using hot water in the wash cycle and putting them in the dryer, it makes it even worse.
As far as fixing it, apply some conditioner, like Lexol, to the leather.
Wow. I should get into paint correction. <$250 for all the tools and polish and waxes. As a car guy, I don't mind waxing my car every 6 months (or 4 months if you're in the frigid north or are anal). I also feel it's foolish to drop $2k-4k on these nano-quartz-bullshit schemes that a lot of car guys swear by nowadays. If you want to drop $4k on paint protection, go for it, but I can get a full window-out repaint for the same price!
Here's what I learned:
Buy the equipment:
https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46
https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Action-Hook-Flexible-Backing-Plate/dp/B0008G1RDK
https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Signature-Microfiber-Towel-Case%2C-324-count.product.100341124.html
https://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06
http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html (MIN: 2 orange, 2 white, 1 black, 1 blue -- I prefer doubling this order; Autogeek almost always has 10-25% off coupons on their mailing list)
You will also need an extension wire with the appropriate gauge (too thin/cheap cables might cause you to burn your Porter Cable motor!)
Buy the compounds (start with UC; if swirls aren't getting cut, move up to 50%/50% UC and 105 on the pads; finish with 205 regardless):
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM (medium aggressive)
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI (most aggressive)
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC
Wash your car with this, and the two-bucket method:
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO
https://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Chenille-Microfiber-Premium-Scratch-Free/dp/B002J7KCOG
Claybar the car:
https://www.amazon.com/YGDZ-Quality-Detailing-Claybar-Shipping/dp/B01MF4BVVS
It took me about 5-6 relaxed hours on a Sunday with a few beers for the full correction. Now I simply top up the wax every few months (and that only takes 30 min).
The thing is, once you do the full correction and get rid of all your swirls and scuffs and whatever clearcoat damage (wash + claybar + M105/UC + M205 + wax), then you don't have to do the FULL correction ever again.
Ever again meaning, if you wash the car properly thereafter with the two-bucket method. You'll simply need to top up the wax once it stops beading -- the wax will protect the clearcoat from damage and swirls.
My wax lasted 6+ months being daily driven in the California sun with three coats of Collinite 845 -- I assume if yours will see more snow and ice and rain, perhaps it'll only last 3-4 months. But since a bottle costs <$20 and you'll get at least 36+ layers out of it, I always recommend this versus the "nano coatings" that people are shelling out $2-4k for.
Here's the Collinite fanboy thread:
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html
Any other questions, feel free to ask. Good luck!
This is actually quite a timely post. I just bought a bunch of leather cleaning products and conditioning for my leather jackets and boots.
My goods:
Most of this is for the leather jackets I own and have been abusing to heck with some water damage and snow damage. Boots that need a good cleaning and conditioning. And my old leather wallet that is looking like an old leather rag.
Great timing on the question I'm looking to treat my Demonic Red leather seats and love the matte finish. My seats generally stay clean, so a dry soft microfiber is what I have been using. I'm looking to protect and treat the leather to keep it from cracking over time, while NOT adding shine.
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I didn't do such a good job treating my scat pack seats and after 4 years noticed the beginning of wear and creases. Not really noticeable to the normal person, but my OCD was triggered... I had been using Turtle wax blue Ice which is great 1 step for cleaning and protecting normal leather or fake leather, but not really a good regimen for protecting soft leathers.
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I've been researching for a while and found my 2 go to brands have products that "allegedly" work really well at cleaning and conditioning without adding shine. It's really tough to find good true reviews with all the sponsored content out there. These are the 2 products I plan to order and test.
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The basic process is to clean the leather with a proper leather cleaner first to remove any dirt and oils from your skin that build up over time, this can create issues with the leather even though you condition regularly. Once you have a clean surface you can then treat with conditioner, let soak in, then buff off. I'll be using my favorite microfiber towels 1 for cleaning 1 for conditioning and 1 for buffing off.
Mink Oil is alright, but you should really check out Obenaufs leather cleaner. It's probably the best leather restorer out there right now. It will turn the leather a darker colour than the mink oil, but it won't leave a nasty white film on top like the mink oil tends to leave.
Honestly, unless you live in a very arid climate, the chances are your crepe sole will need to be replaced before you ever really even need to treat the leather.
Three products to get it where it needs to be:
• Fiebing's saddle soap and a horsehair brush (Kiwi makes a decent one for cheap) to clean it up.
• Obenauf's Leather Oil to put the oils back in it and make it soft again. I found a pair of Lucchese boots at a garage sale once that were on the verge of being ruined because they were so dried out. Obenauf's Leather Oil made them look and feel drastically better. This stuff is kind of messy, so do it over some newspaper and maybe wear some gloves. (Do not use the Obenauf's Leather Protector.)
I just was looking for this two weeks ago and I couldn't find a decent answer. We have a white extremely short hair dog and my gf's car had black interior. Needless to say there was no way a shop vac was getting that hair out, it was like velcro to the cloth seats/carpet.
I went to pet stores and they tried to sell me lint rollers and other useless stuff, then I went to Meijer (a 24 supercenter here in the MI, OH area) and went to their pet section. They had a rubber bristled brush, almost exactly like this one
(http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_S06-Electrostatic-Removal/dp/B0042B4B3U/ref=sr_1_7?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1370467711&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=rubber+brush)
It worked great, I just had to keep going. Use the brush with one hand, moving it different ways and then "sweep" the hair into a running shop vac. It'll take awhile (it took me 2 hours for a hatchback focusing on the back seats), but it will be worth it. I then re-vacuumed and used my Mytee Lite to finish the job.
Looks great.
Good luck and take your time.
Also don't waste your time with tape, it's useless.
They make rubber pet hair removal brushes specifically for this purpose. They can be had for around 6-10 dollars, and I can attest: will even remove husky hair from carpet. The stone is also good, the sponge not so much. I've never tried the baking soda method. That sounds like it's totally worth a shot. Everyone has baking soda around.
I use this one
If you’re willing to spend a few bucks more I have this style of brush and holy shit does it do an amazing job! You get the squeegee too on the top but the brush part is the real
Chemical Guys Acc_S06 Professional Rubber Pet Hair Removal Brush
An eraser wheel will get that right off.
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00488DDB8/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is what mine looked like about halfway through.
Imgur
What was left I clayed with nanoskin and then polished it up. You cant tell the wing was ever there.
Eraser wheel. I used one on some molding adhesive and with a little time and patience it takes everything off without hurting the paint.
I use these
Viking 862400 Blue Microfiber Wax Applicator, (Pack of 6) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yU3xzbATVA338
I use these and just throw them in the wash after:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051MYL8E
They are pretty cheap for being reusable. Honestly washing them every time is probably overkill anyway, a quick rinse would be fine.
Let's start by saying car covers are a pain in the ass for daily use, the car has to be perfectly clean to prevent it from scratching and it just doesn't work that way unless the car is washed every couple of days.
Instead I'd just wash 1 or 2 times a week, and get a gallon-size of Meguiar's spray wax and Last Touch, because you know you'll be in a constant battle against certain elements, might as well stock up (and you save like 50% just buying in bulk this way). In fact I recommend checking out their entire detailer line because you're going to go through a lot of soaps, waxes, etc. Their gallon of shampoo plus for $20 is a great start. And you can find deals like 3-packs of their supreme shine towels for $6 as an amazon add-on item if you're a prime customer.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D11101-Shampoo-Plus-Gallon/dp/B000EZICII
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485457672&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=meguiar%27s+microfiber+mitt
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Spray/dp/B005JPJMI2
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15501-Touch-Spray-Detailer/dp/B0006SH4NC/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485453717&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=last+touch
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D12001-Glass-Cleaner-Concentrate/dp/B0006SH4KU/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485457691&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=meguiar%27s+glass+cleaner
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Supreme-Shine-Microfiber-Cloths/dp/B0009IQZH0/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485455013&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=supreme+shine
I just buy all their gallon sized stuff and then reuse my old bottles of spray wax, detailers spray, glass cleaner, wheel bottles, etc. Saves me lots of money, like the difference between $100 now or a couple hundred by next year. For instance their gallon size of glass cleaner is probably enough to set you straight on that for a few years, dilutes 10-1 with distilled water. That's 10 gallons of glass cleaner, put that in an old windex bottle and never run out!
Also the Chemical Guy's bucket kit https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_101-Detailing-Bucket/dp/B001U522GO was a pretty amazing deal and necessary if you're going to use coin-wash bays. However the mitt included is a bit rough, so instead I use a meguiar's microfiber mitt as its the softest I've found so far. The paint on this car is very soft so it's important to use the softest products possible on the paint.
An Invisible Glass Reach and Clean tool has worked out great for cleaning the interior glass and keeping it from fogging up. Great item to have. https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Reach-Clean-95161/dp/B0017K69MA
And a bird poop tip, keep a plastic container with microfibers, a bottle of water, and a bottle of last touch / spray wax mix in the trunk or behind passenger seat. If a bird hits the car, just soak microfiber with water, apply for 30 seconds, and then clean with the detailer spray / spray wax.
To prevent corrosion, you're going to want to clean deep into the wheel wells and stuff with dedicated brushes and mitts, and then use an anti corrosion product (I ordered some ACF-50 spray recently, getting it in the mail today probably) https://www.amazon.com/Lear-Chemical-ACF50-Anti-Corrosion-Lubricant/dp/B000P1C8UO . You're going to want to check crevices for salt buildup, it can happen on some of the window trim parts, so it might be necessary to remove them and clean them out if it starts to rust underneath. You might want to use dabs of silicone stuff to prevent water and salt from corroding these spots. There are a few posts about corrosion of FT86club forums so read up on them. Also your cabin air filter, leaves and bugs like to get in your cabin air filter and make things nasty. You can easily check / service this yourself, its behind the glove box.
For maintenance, I would NOT go past 5000 miles on an oil change, and be choosy where you take your oil changes. The car likes running on fresh oil period. Buy a 5 pack of oem oil filters and oem crush washers to keep yourself straight for awhile, saves money and time. Or also a fumoto oil valve can save even more effort, as a DIY'er it made my oil changes the easiest thing to do. Check your tire pressure constantly, because a decrease in pressure will make the car drive like crap and will wear your tires out quickly.
Your 60k mile maintenance or therabouts is an important interval. Needs stuff done like spark plug changes, and probably checking the clutch throwout bearing to see if it has become worn. These are expensive and labor intensive, expect a $1000 bill.
you can take it apart and soak parts in evapo rust https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M0TLQ66/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
super easy. after you do that you'll want to clean the surfaces and apply some metal polish to prevent rust from coming back.
Yes it will work as all of those. You may also want to look into [ONRWW] (http://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NRWW2012Q-Rinse-Wash-Wax/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464230627&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax) . I use both on a regular basis. I also really like [WG Uber] (http://www.amazon.com/Wolfgang-WG-3700-Uber-Rinse-less/dp/B017KSJ5ZK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464230678&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wolfgang+uber) the best. ONRWW will leave protection behind. WG Uber works phenomenal, smells good, leaves a high gloss and paint very slick. Its by far my favorite one.
Optimum (NRWW2012Q) No Rinse Wash & Wax - 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V7R7BbFT6WKYB this will change your life as it did mine
I also used car guys hybrid wax sealant
The free way to perhaps help would be to clean your gaskets along the doors/hood/ and windows as well as their mating surfaces with just warm soapy water and rinsing them off. You could also buy a quality water-based gasket conditioner to treat them with after cleaning them to counteract any drying out with something like this or this!
Some Evapo-rust would help https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-Original-contains-non-toxic-biodegradable/dp/B00M0TLQ66 There's a youtube channel that restores stuff like this too. I think I saw it posted on here once sorta recently.
My parents' neighbor has been watching as I borrow Mom and Dad's hose and he recently asked if I could take on his car and I was happy to oblige! Overall, the exterior was in okay shape - couple bugs, a few spots of tree sap and bird poo, as well as just a good amount of dirt and mud tucked in some spaces. I gave the car a two bucket wash,
clay, Iron X treatment,Iron X, clay and topped it off with a sealant. Thanks for pointing out that I listed my procedure out of order, /u/Deadfable! Here's the deets:Products Used:
0000 Steel Wool from Home Depot (used with QD for the exhaust tips)
Overall a fun job! Got rewarded with a hearty lunch of sausage and peppers on Italian bread. Happy detailer!!
Audi allroad Quattro
This was by far the nicest vehicle I’ve worked on. My aunt was in town and asked me to clean up her car, but I only had about three hours to give it quick in and out so I had to do what I could. The interior had a nice layer of dust over everything, there was dog hair in most of the upholstery, the mats were covered in dirt and salt from the winter, and the leather seats all had a noticeable bit of dirt on them. The outside wasn’t too bad besides the wheels, which were nearly black from all the brake dust. There was also a bunch of tar around the wheels which I removed.
Products:
Interior
Carpro Inside
Leather scrub brush
All-purpose microfiber
Scrub brush
Rubber mats pressure washed and scrubbed with carpet brush and Britemax Interior Cleaner
Dog hair removed with scrub brush & vacuum
Wheels & Tires
Iron X
Meguiar’s All-Purpose Cleaner 4:1
Meguiar’s Hyper Wash
Multiple wheel brushes – Adam’s Wheel Face brush, Adam’s long handled brush, wheel woolies, Tuff Shine Tire Brush, & Carrand wheel brush
Wash
Foam gun with Carpro IX Snow Soap
2BW with Carpro Reset
Meguiar’s microfiber wash mitt
Decontamination
Carpro IX
Carpro Tar X
Meguiar’s mild clay
ONR clay lube dilution
Plastic razor
LSP
Carpro Eraser
Carpro Hydro2
Other
Meguiar’s Glass Cleaner Concentrate
Ammo Mud
Total time: 3 hours
Like I said, I didn’t have a ton of time on this car so I had to do what I could and split my time evenly on the interior and exterior. The wheels easily took about 45 minutes total which really had me rushing to get the rest of the exterior done. My aunt was very happy with the results and asked when she should have me do it again. Next time I’ll be able to plan and have more than a few hours to get more involved since this was kind of a spur of the moment detail. This is a beautiful car in and out and felt lucky to have gotten to work on it. I forget what year model this is, either a 2014 or 2015.
Credit to /u/zenautodetailing for the write up format. Links reflect where I bought the products. Many of these items should be on Amazon Prime.
Thanks for looking!
Buy three buckets, one for wheels, the others for a two bucket system.
Buy something to clean the wheels as well. I have the wheel woolies but I'm going to ask for the woolly wormit for my birthday from my wife.
Get a Waterless Wash and/or Quick Detailer for the times when you don't need a wash but you want to clean stuff up.
Take a look into this new Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Wax for a sealant. I have used the Fast Finish and it's great so this should be even better.
I also use Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax (D156 is the same but in a gallon jug) as a drying aid and it makes the car POP!
As a final suggestion, buy some 303 for the interior. You're going to love it. Not greasy, smells okay (not fruity), and leaves things looking great.
Evapo-Rust is a surprisingly good product. I use it constantly to restore antique tools because it eats rust but won't touch the steel. I've tested that advertising claim on accident by forgetting and leaving stuff in it for weeks at a time. The only caveat I know of comes into play if you forget something that is only partially submerged. If anything happens to cause your exposed steel to rust then the concoction will eat the rust at the water tension line; if it continues rusting it continues to be eaten. I etched a line on a scrape that I left partially exposed in a non-climate-controlled shop with very high humidity; the condensation over a couple days kept up a continuous rust feed. Basically, if it's not fully submerged, just don't forget and leave your blade in for days at a time and I doubt you'll ever see an issue.
A PVC pipe at the right diameter and length, sealed on one end and you could drop your feder blade in and walk away. Come back after a couple of hours and wipe it clean. Deburr if necessary, oil/wax, and you should be done.
If for whatever reason you don't want to use oil or wax they also make a spray-on rust-inhibitor that so far has worked fairly reliably for me.
I highly recommend you Use this : Evapo-Rust The Original Super Safe Rust Remover, Water-Based, Non-Toxic, Biodegradable, 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M0TLQ66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_he9kDbMKZXCMV
It will get to even the deep pitted rust. In my experience this works much better than vinegar. I usually don't even use a wire brush after plates sit in evaporust for an hour or so. Based on how much you have you will probably need 2-3 gallons.
Is this what you're looking for?
http://www.amazon.com/einszett-914806-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG/
http://www.amazon.com/303-30324-Rubber-Seal-Protectant/dp/B00T44D1R2/
I have a question regarding the removal of the urine odor left over from tanning camel leather. I purchased this bag and I have tried to treat it with Chamberlains Leather Milk Conditioner and a water/vinegar solution with no avail. I've also tried airing it outside for a few days. Do you have any suggestions to get strong odors out of a leather like that? I imagine it would have to permeate it and kill the odor with a Febreeze-like effect.
>Doors freeze shut when it’s cold.
Yeah, I know, right? It normally happens when you have a slightly warmer day (enough to allow some melted snow to get into the door's track) followed by a much colder night. Next morning, frozen door. It's not the glass or the seal freezing, it's the water. Adding a lubricant to the seal usually does the trick. Someone above recommended the following, sound like a plan for those in a colder climate.
303 Rubber Seal Protectant and Conditioner for Weather Seals - 3.4 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T44D1R2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JBh7Bb00V3DRV
I use this on my saddleback wallet/briefcase. Keeps them smelling and looking amazing.
2 words: Leather Milk
I have the dark brown calf Boots.
(I also have Black Red Wing Beckmans and some Burgundy Allen Edmonds that I will polish today or tomorrow)
I went on amazon and bought a few things --
Chamberlains is nice and I like it, but others recommend Saphir Medaille D'or Renovator which I might get just to see if there is a noticeable difference
Basically, I've never done this (well maybe once a long time ago watching my dad shine his shoes....so like over a decade ago), so I just jumped on youtube and google to look for stuff.
Let it sit over night with your shoe trees in, then see how nice the outcome is!
Took me like....45 minutes or so but I had to keep going back to make sure I wasn't being dumb or missing something. Overall, its pretty easy. I'm sure there are "better" ways to do it, but thats why I'm reading and looking at stuff to see what to do.
If anyone has more tips or help, or if Im completely wrong, please TELL ME.
Hope I'm not here spouting blasphemy.
Amazon
Tractor supply has it and wall mart if your lucky
I also have a David King weekender bag! Same shade, but a bit smaller in size. I've had it about 4 years and it's in similar condition to yours. It's a really lovely bag and was such a great value. I get so many compliments on it.
I just used it for a trip last week and am considering applying a leather conditioner to it. I just noticed a few areas were looking a bit drier and worn. I'm certainly not complaining about their quality-- any leather product is going to need some love to keep it looking new. Their website recommends using a leather conditioner for good measure.
I was planning on buying a bottle of Chamberlain's Leather Milk to use on it. I'll do a spot test, though I fully expect it to darken a few shades once the conditioner's applied.
No problem! Nowadays I almost exclusively use the medium brush from this set to clean wheels and lugnuts, in addition to my wheel woolies. I then use a designated wheel microfiber (I use the gray Miner towels from The Rag Company) to dry the wheels off and catch any spots I missed with the brushes.
I use Nextzett Colortec Wheel Cleaner with a set of Wheel Woolies. I like Adam's Tire & Rubber Cleaner for the tires. Check out /r/AutoDetailing/ or Obsessed Garage on YouTube for more solid recommendations.
This right here. But I go crazy and do 2 coats of Power Lock and 2 coats of 845. And I hit the whole car with D156 after each wash as well.
I'm fairly new, myself. I've driven clunkers most of my life. Spent about five years downtown where I didn't have a car. Now I'm back in suburbia, so I've got a brand new GTI, and it's the first one I've ever cared to take good care of. Here's what I started with:
I should have picked up some of Chemical Guys' citrus wash and clear, too, to help deal with a winter's worth of grime left by terrible touchless car washes. I've also got a tire brush, hand vacuum, and some assorted cheap microfiber towels around already.
Your kit looks a lot more cost-effective, though. Throw in some cheap buckets, grit guards, wash mitts, and drying towel, and an extra stack of cheap microfibers and you're still under $100 for practically everything you would need for a proper two-bucket wash and wax.
Buy this and be mindblown that you ever needed water in the first place, it's fantastic. I also like to dilute some of it and use it as a quik detail/waxer.
http://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NRWW2012Q-Rinse-Wash-Wax/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462805403&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax
303 is great stuff. That's what I use. My 2003 is still original top but I've had to patch it in a couple of small spots, due to wear from the bars.
This is what I was referring to for the door and window seals: 303 Rubber Seal Protectant and Conditioner for Weather Seals - 3.4 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T44D1R2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5LDIAbS9Y0J4B
This product is a soak. I purchased a gallon jug for $21 on [Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00M0TLQ66/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498429496&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=evapo+rust&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51QNIj5clvL&amp;ref=plSrch) I varied the time of the soak by the amount of rust on the tool. I checked on them periodically and used a brass wire brush on them before, during, and after the soak. The threads run effortlessly.
I would clean it with light abrasion (microfiber towel is probably ok) and any sort of all purpose cleaner. I'm not sure if it's reversible, but there are products that are meant for that sort of material. If you google "gummi pflege" you should find a couple. I personally have this stuff but haven't used it a whole lot.
Here is a link to the Chamberlain's Leather Milk.
My SO had it, and uses it periodically on her Ariat riding boots (These, I think. Not sure though). It seems to work very nicely, so I was disappointed at my results.
I will look into the creme polishes. Why do you prefer the creme polish over the wax?
Larry from AMMO has a video about this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Bd_IqK5ydU
I also use Lexol Cleaner for my seats. Lexol has great products and I have used them for years and years.
As /u/code-sloth said, The Bare Minimum Supplies List is a great start.
For your specifics, I would suggest:
Leather:
Lexol Leather Cleaner
Lexol Leather Conditioner
Plastics inside, I would use an Interior Detailer. Some people like 303, I personally like InnerClean by CG.
Aluminum rims, check out some metal polish. Are your rims clearcoated or pure aluminum?
And what are you trying to do with your paint? Are you looking for paint correction?
I bought this based on recommendations : https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10916-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0002V9IFU/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474904560&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=maguires+auto+products
I like it.
I've had great luck using this Meguiars Gold Class in my 2002 540i. I had recently bought her and I don't think the leather had been cleaned in the entire life of the car. I used this with a brush and except for a few cracks the leather looks and feels brand new.
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Gold-Class-Leather-Spray/dp/B0002V9IFU
I'd say no to the cover- you bought the seats so enjoy them!. What I'd do is head down to a local auto store and purchase leather interior cleaner and conditioner - something like this https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10916-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0002V9IFU
Along with this get some microfiber towels to use when cleaning the seats. You can always get the cover if you destroy the seats in 10 years . I'd use the seats and leather for you, not the next owner.
For wax you can spread it however you like. Machines (dual orbital polishers) are better, but if you're happy with hand wax results don't bother spending more $$. Again, I tend to like meguiars, you can check out their liquid and paste waxes. From what I remember the liquid is easier to apply. Again, grab some more microfibers. Every 6 months should suffice
If you plan on carrying supplies keeping a blanket is a great idea. Also if you are in a in a cold climate you can keep a blanket - but I wouldn't worry about EVER getting stranded in a well-maintained corolla (key: follow the maintenance schedule and don't skip stuff!!!)
ALSO: WASH THE CAR EVERY 2 WEEKS. Even though you can't see a lot of grime its there. This will prevent it from rusting up a la monte carlo
Enjoy the new car !
If you want something simple and easy to use, try Meguiar's Leather Cleaner & Conditioner. Can be found on Amazon (which I linked), or at Target/Walmart.
No, it's not as dedicated or strong in cleaning or protection as other products, but because it's a simple spray + wipe cleaner, you can easily clean/condition the entire interior within minutes.
I use it on my White Parchment Leather in my Mazda3 weekly.
Meguiar's Gold Class Rich Leather Cleaner & Conditioner
Maaaan I just got done ogling this car over at /r/Ford and now you gotta make me jelly over here...
Again, Dad just got one of these, too. We've been treating the leather with this stuff, and it's looking pretty sharp. Congrats again on the truck!!
how about the Meguiar's one?
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X2000-Magnet-Microfiber-Drying/dp/B0009IQZFM/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405130888&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=waffle+weave+drying+towel
$7.26 each?... any good?
BTW, I use a chamois to dry my car. One is almost as old as I am and the other one is a new synthetic one... so... anything else might be an improvement
I wouldn't buy it myself. Heres what I would buy it's cheaper and get the same results. Soap Foam Gun Wash Mitt Drying for about $60. It's what I started out with and I still use gold class every now and again and the foam gun for my Motorcycles.
First of all, here's a link with some pictures: https://imgur.com/a/DdDMX8f
I just bought this car two weekends ago and I'm stoked. I have washed it once (normal two-bucket method, no polish/wax). I'm going to plan for a more in-depth detail this coming or the following weekend, so I'm planning on making some purchases and wanted to run them by you guys! My general plan is do a foam cannon spray, rest a little bit, rinse, decontaminate w/ Griot's Speed Shine and Griot's Synthetic Clay.
After decontamination, in the long run, I would like to put a coat of CQuartz. Beforehand, obviously, I need to remove as many of the swirls/scratches as possible. I don't have any experience yet with compounding/polishing so do you think I should try it first before buying the CQuartz, or should I just go for it?
Here's what I'd like to buy:
I already have some good stuff for cleaning wheels and I've been using Griot's Interior Detailer for the interior and it seems to be doing a good enough job. The interior isn't very dirty so just light cleaning suffices.
As for CQuartz prep, before I am more confident in the paint correction process, should I apply a wax after polishing, or will that just make it more of a pain in the ass to decontaminate the paint when I decide to apply CQuartz in the next month or so? FYI, I'm going to be reading the DA polishing guides on this sub before I buy anything related to that.
Any comments or suggestions on things I have selected?
Thanks!
I picked up 2 packs of these and I've been used them for drying my car after GD method car-wash. How are they compared to the "Korean waffle weave towels"? Are they the same?
Well I've just started getting together my own kit and felt I HAD to get these:
I still feel like there are atleast ten other products that I NEED!
-Pressure Washer
-Foam Cannon
-Detailing brushes
-Sealants/Compounds combined with a proper rotor drill
-ETC
Awesome! You definitely helped. One final question if it's ok. Will the following steps (in order) be good for a first time wash/detail?
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER), while using this as the lube for it?
I was considering these also. How is yours better?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001TZBB3K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1414699682&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0057O0GSA/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1414699720&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009IQZFM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1414700082&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40
This is what you want
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81730-Flowable-Silicone-Windshield/dp/B000BKEBO0
I highly recommend the Magic Yoyo N9 and N12. The N11 is probably great too.
The 10 ball bearings in the N11 and N12 are okay. You'll probably want to replace them fairly soon though. The 8 ball bearing in the N9 is barely okay. It will likely need replacing immediately. That said, if you can tolerate a slightly substandard bearing or get lucky and get one with no problems, you may not need to replace them.
The response pads will also need to be replaced. Buy some flowable silicone if you don't have some. You can find tutorials on youtube.
(Also, I have no idea why this has been downvoted at least twice. I upvoted to help.)
This is what most people use.
i've heard of people lining the floor of their tent with flowable silicone, like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81730-Flowable-Silicone-Windshield/dp/B000BKEBO0
to prevent pads from slipping- you might try putting some silicone on the bottom of your pad to get the same effect?
I bought my flowable silicone from amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BKEBO0/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Make sure you don't get the "RTV" version. It doesn't work.
Get the one that has "Windshield and Glass Sealer" on its label.
I used it to mod my Yomega Dash to unresponsive and it works really well. I also used it to replace the worn-out response pad on my YYJ Trigger. I would say followable silicone is better than the stock response on my Trigger.
So definitely try to use followable silicone in your yoyos. You won't be disappointed.
I use this stuff - https://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid-Car-Polish/dp/B000BPSW7C/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510849021&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=nu+finish&amp;dpID=41TQElpWDtL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
But whatever you have is probably fine. I don't care for spray on, if you over-spray and get it on the floor, you are going to slip and hurt yourself. Wipe it on, let it sit for a bit, wipe excess off.
When I get my Impreza in a month and a half, I plan on giving it a coat of wax. Seems like a good idea. I've heard this wax is good...
Nu Finish Liquid Car Polish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPSW7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cSPAybN24F9GC
Not sure what else, I'm looking for recommendations too.
$5.47 Thanks!
I used rain-x on my car, where it has worked amazingly against rain. so i imagine it works with a bathroom mirror
http://www.amazon.com/Rain-X-Glass-Treatment-Trigger-oz/dp/B000BVRZ74/
It's basically just a glass coating that seals the pores in the glass making super smooth.
Available pretty much everywhere, I usually grab it at Walmart.
I use Rain-X.
I have Rain-X Latitude wipers which I coated the rubber with Rain-X to prolong the Rain-X on my windshield. I applied Rain-X on my windshield once a year and it's basically repelling water like day one. I use this Rain-X Windshield Washer Fluid. I haven't applied Rain-X to my windshield for a good 2 years or so now.
Rain-X
https://amzn.com/B000BVRZ74
I ride a leather Burton glove. Leather gloves don't breath very well, so setting them out to dry after riding is important.
First I use dawn dish soap in the kitchen sink to wash them.
Next, Lexol leather conditioner so the leather isn't left dry.
Finish off with Nikwax waterproofing to make them stay dry.
Use some Lexol on it and it will look so much better.
"MakersOnRocks" posting about sperries. TFM. Anyway, when you're cleaning them, put some of this shit on there after following the other peoples' advice. It really works wonders.
if its real leather then i would just use leather conditioner. (luckily I have some from my boots) check this out.
If not I'll let someone else answer.
Amazon has the big bottle of M205 for $18
It depends on how aggressive you were with this "magic eraser". You say it dulled the surface rather than scratched it, which indicates that the scratches are very fine and very shallow. This should be easily repairable by just polishing it out with a very fine grade polishing compound. M205 is a popular choice. You can find it on Amazon or in most hardware/auto stores. You can (and should) post in /r/autodetailing if you want more responses.
You can totally DIY paint correct with a dual action polisher.
Here’s a straightforward shopping list and guide. This will knock out most if not all of your swirl marks.
Shopping List:
Machine Polisher - PORTER-CABLE Variable Speed Polisher, 6-Inch (7424XP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l7SADbKPP1Q6Q
Backing Pad - Astro 4607 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T7SADbZ187WK1
Bugging Pads - Chemical Guys HEX_3KIT_5 5.5" Buffing Pad Sampler Kit (4 Items), 16. Fluid_Ounces, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J588UNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d9SADb8WF470V
Compound - Meguiar's G17220 Ultimate Compound, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5HCZ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M9SADb0ADEMZJ
Finishing Polish - Meguiar's M20532 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish, 32 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O7PNXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i-SADbWXADMQT
Wax - Your preference
Here’s the guide:
1 – Tool Prep
Set aside the dual-action polisher, backing pad, and foam pads. Remove the included backing plate that’s already attached to the Porter Cable polisher, use the included wrench. Re-attached using the Astro pad, secure tightly.
2 – Wash
Wash your car by hand, preferably using the two-bucket method. Afterward, move the car into your garage or shaded area. You’ll want to be out of direct sunlight, keeping the paint as cool as possible.
3 – Clay Bar
Clay bar the entire car. Make sure to wipe down the finish afterward, keeping it as clean as possible.
4 – Compound Buffing
Grab your machine polisher, the Ultimate Compound, and the orange pad. Attach the pad to the polisher using the velcro backing, make sure it’s centered. Prime the pad by dabbing 8-10 dime-sized amounts across the surface. Start working one section at a time, around 2 x 2 feet. Before you turn on the polisher, press the pad against the paint. Compound polish should be soaked within the pad, along with the paint. Press the pad against the surface, set to speed setting 2-3, and begin spreading the compound around in quick passes. Then, turn it up to 5-6 and let the fun begin. Use overlapping, slow passes. Once you’re done, wide the area clean with a microfiber towel.
5 – Inspection
Check out your results of the first section. Go over the area again if most of the swirl marks aren’t gone. If the swirls are gone, but a light haze is present, don’t worry. The finishing polish will take care of it.
6 – Polish Buffing
Use the M205 Finishing Polish with the white pad. Follow the same steps from before. Prime the pad and rub it against the paint before turning on the polisher. Use a max speed of 3-4 with medium pressure. The Finishing Polish will take care of the rest of the haze and micro scratches. Once you’re finished with the first section, wipe clean.
7 – Inspection
Again, check out the results of the M205 Finishing Polish. It’s doubtful you’ll need more than one application, but double-check all the same. If it’s looking great, move on and finish the rest of your car.
8 – Wax
Your paint is looking great. The swirl marks are gone, leaving a bright clean finish. Apply the wax using the black foam pad. Use very light pressure, letting the pad float along with the paint. You’re just coating your car’s finish, that’s all. Wipe clean with a microfiber towel.
oh boy now you are getting in detailing! what your going to need is meguiars 205 finish polish, a DA polisher. and a lake country orange cutting pad and a backing pad (theres one that comes with the harbor freight one, but its considered trash)
https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57-amp-heavy-duty-dual-action-variable-speed-polisher-69924.html
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC?keywords=meguairs+205&amp;qid=1536994013&amp;sr=8-1&amp;ref=sr_1_1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CH3Z8W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I use Meguiar's M105 then M205 on my headlights.
50% off 32oz M205 polish on Amazon!
Yeah I got confused, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O7PNXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 that is what I ended up buying, so it was correct to use this right? It did not get rid of the swirls at all however, should I try M105 or something, not sure what heavy cuts is.
You might need a new ass, TBH. My leather wallet has been in my back pocket for over a decade, and only smells like leather. ;-)
They have leather cleaner available.
Something like this, perhaps? Or maybe something to mask the bad smell with a leather-scent, like this?
Right off the bat I can tell you that this can cleaned up and looking good again. You might have to use some more advance techniques to get it looking brand new. But let’s try this first before we talk about more technical leather repair suggestions. I recommend watching this video on YouTube. It’s not me in the video, but it gives you a good idea of how something so dirty/damaged can look new again. Instead of Lexol, I personally use the Chemical Guys leather cleaner and conditioner combo. Nothing wrong with Lexol though. I started off on that brand when learning the ins and outs on detailing. Maybe pick up some good Microfiber (MF) towels too. Let me know if that works for you and if not, head on over to r/AutoDetailing and we’ll take care of you.
Edit: words
http://www.amazon.com/Bickmore-Bick-Leather-Conditioner-Ounces/dp/B001CS8G3C
This is the most recommended over at /r/goodyearwelt. I use Obenauf's oil on my boots. I think it'll darken things more than the Bick's will.
Obenauf makes a leather oil that is better for treating/conditioning dry leather.
Saddle Soap is a great product to clean and maintain boots without drying them out.
Red Wing also makes Mink Oil and a number of other leather treatments to weatherproof boots.
You could get him 1 of each, and a cleaning brush and put it all in a wooden cigar box. ($1-5 at a tobacco store) and it would be a great gift.
We use one of these paired with our shop-vac. Works really well in the house and the car. Also one of those stones.
I haven't found a vac that will get rid of the hair off microfiber surfaces very well, this solution worked for us.
I bought it on amazon, it came with a bit so you throw it in a drill and go to town.
http://www.amazon.com/AES-Industries-Smart-Eraser-Adaptor/dp/B00488DDB8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414431992&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=eraser+wheel
If they're adhesive pinstripes, this thing will take the old stripe off in no time at all, and you could either get pinstripe tape, or take it to someone to run the lines with paint, shouldn't be too spendy. I'd talk to a painter if they're painted on, though.
Eraser wheel?
AES Industries 4" Smart Eraser Pad with Drill Adaptor Arbor [Made In USA]
http://amzn.com/B00488DDB8
hey thanks for the advice i took into consideration what you suggested and ended with this stuff,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170694956256?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&amp;_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190381853105?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&amp;_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
and maybe this?
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Polish-16-oz/dp/B004HCOE8Q/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_y
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound/dp/B001O7PNNM/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_y
Hey guys i'm new to this detailing scene..but I do hope to learn a lot from everyone! I have an 05' white civic and the exterior isn't terrible, but there's definitely parts where there's medium oxidation and swirl marks. Just overall the paint doesn't feel glossy and smooth, just weathered and feels like metal.
Please let me know if I got the steps correct...any inputs is greatly appreciated!
Thanks so much for all your suggestions and inputs. I hope to learn a lot from all of you.
PS. Extra question, I'm doing a roadtrip after the detail...(stupid i know) but what's a good product to get rid of the bug stains while I'm out on the road?
THANKS!!
Maybe try using a very light cutting Polish or Compound and buffing it out with a Dual action buffer.
Quick question about a couple starter supplies, re: claying, waxxing and tires/wheels. I'm working on putting together a kit for first-time detailing my 92 miata (single-stage paint)
claying: I've heard good things about the nanoskin sponge and mits, does anyone have any feedback on this ABN towel? reviews seem solid, and I was considering getting it instead of the sponge. https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Grade-Towel-Detailing-Cloth/dp/B00Y1OBG8Q/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504977575&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=clay+mitt
waxxing: ill be getting the collinite 845, as far as application goes I just need some application pads and towels to buff with, right? I was considering https://www.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504986720&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=microfiber+applicator+pad and https://www.theragcompany.com/eagle-edgeless-16-x-16-microfiber-towel/
re: wheels/tires, i'll be good to go with APC, tire brush, wheel brush, and tire dressing, right? not quite ready to drop 50$ into a woolie set yet, so I was going to go with the mini ez detail
I use Meguiar's Gold Class for soap and in this picture I used Meguiar's Spray Wax as a drying agent.
My very first wash a few weeks ago I used HydrO2 for a longer lasting hydrophobic sealant.
I've yet to use it. I have a bottle waiting to try but I've had a few ppl tell me about it. I actually used to use Meguiars D156 as a drying aide everytime I washed & it just didn't feel like it did anything. I'm sure it did, but I never got the feeling it was adding any protection or longevity to my wax job.
Maybe someone else will chime in but it seems like some ppl are using these ceramic sprays as their only form of wax/protection. So to me if that's the case then it should definitely be an added benefit to apply over top of Collinite.
Look up some vids on YouTube. There are plenty.
If you go thru lots of ultimate quick wax, buy Megs Xpress Spray Wax by the gallon. Way cheaper, same product.
MEGUIAR'S D15601 Synthetic X-Press Spray Wax, 128. Fluid_Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005JPJMI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HTbtDbSMXDYET
X-Press spray is a magical. Think detailer spray, but it actually does something. Dries clear, so you can use it on any surface. I usually spray my car while it's still wet after washing, then just dry it off with a microfiber. Water beads off like everything was rain-x'ed
https://www.amazon.com/MEGUIARS-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Fluid_Ounces/dp/B005JPJMI2/
It's easy to get caught up in all of the information on the internet about detailing. My advice would be to keep it simple. The goal is to keep it clean and prevent swirl marks. Go check out AMMO NYC on YouTube and watch some of Larrys videos. 90% of detailing is a simple concept, prevent dirt or grit from being rubbed again your paint. Foam cannons, 2 bucket washes, air drying, etc. the purpose for all of this is to get as much dirt off without rubbing it into your paint. I bet most of the guys on this sub could achieve great results using the cheapest Walmart products because many have a good understanding of decontamination and technique. The reason we all cringe when we see automatic washes, brushes at self serve washes, squeegees on paint is because it goes again the basic principal of don't rub shit into your paint.
Once you get this principle down you can venture into the money pit that is auto detailing products to achieve even better results.
One thing I would add to your cart is Megs D156, it has a ton of uses and works great as a drying aid.
Meguiar's D15601 Synthetic X-Press Spray Wax - 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005JPJMI2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_2vROybTQWAZC2
If you mean a spray wax, check out D156 by Meguiar's. Solid spray wax that smells really good, and can be used on the paint and any plastic trim. Not exactly sure what the durability is like, though.
Also if you want it for a bit of a discount, I (and others on here) have a wholesale account with Detailed Image.
Just wanted to add my humble advice on the jean stains. I had horrible ones from dark jeans on my tan leather. Using Lexol Leather Cleaner and a Kiwi Horse Hair Brush with a tiny bit of water completely removed the stains for me. I follow up with Lexol Leather Conditioner.
Hi! I'm a super newbie to detailing and want to start with the interior of my car. I have a 2001 Lexus LS 430 that is in mostly good shape, but the interior black leather has never(!) been cleaned or conditioned (yikes!). It has only normal wear though, no weird staining, for the most part has only been used by adults (no kids) and no food/drink in the car, so just body oils and dirt from time.
I want to use Mothers Leather Wash Foaming Cleaner, based on a few posts I've seen in this forum and am wondering where to buy one of those soft bristle brushes I see used in this video and this post? Do you think a specific leather-cleaning product is necessary or should I just use a Meguiar's APC diluted (as mentioned here)?
I'm also still confused about whether or not to condition the leather after--I've seen conflicting information about coating on the leather that makes conditioning pointless.
Right now, I am leaning towards coating since my leather is so old and definitely does look a little dry/creased (no cracking yet, thank god!), I'll probably get the Lexol conditioner if so.
Also, for the dash and door panels, which are covered in leather, can I use the general 303 or Meguiar protective treatments on them or is there a leather-specific product?
The full list of what I intend to get to clean the interior of my car:
Just wondering what you all think and if you have any tips!
read the owners manual, for seats it says to use http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-430033-Leather-Cleaner/dp/B0002F9YIC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398478927&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=lexor
also maguires makes alot of good products.
From AE;
2x creams = $15.30
2x brushes = $17
2x dauber = $8.50
1x heel and edge dressing = $4.68
Lexol conditioner = $8.50 http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-1013-Leather-Conditioner-Liter/dp/B000637TNM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416599681&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=lexol
Lexol cleaner = $7 http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-430033-Leather-Cleaner/dp/B0002F9YIC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416599766&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=lexol
$61, and arguably better.
The clean I use this: https://www.amazon.com/Lexol-E301125500-pH-balanced-Leather-Cleaner/dp/B0002F9YIC/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=lexol&amp;qid=1558492876&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-6
To condition I use this: https://www.amazon.com/Lexol-E301125000-Leather-Conditioner-16-9/dp/B0002F9YHI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=lexol&amp;qid=1558492876&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-5
I don't really bother waterproofing all my gear since it never rains in SoCal, but I do reapply a layer of paraffin wax to my boots once a year. Buy a box from walmart for a few bucks, take one of the bricks, melt it onto the leather with a hairdryer or heatgun, rub into a thin transparent layer with a rag.
For winter, I wear a proper wool sweater. For more winter, wear more sweater.
I do not live in the states, as far as I saw on amazon they do not ship the montana or the bickmore to my country, the only thing they ship is lexol.
do you think these will do?
https://www.amazon.com/Lexol-1015N-Leather-Conditioner-16-9-oz/dp/B0002F9YHI/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478536199&amp;sr=1-1-catcorr&amp;keywords=lexol+conditioner
https://www.amazon.com/Lexol-1115-Interior-Leather-Cleaner/dp/B0002F9YIC/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=WS6AGH8YGVGRPKAFBA34
do you know if these are all natural colour? the brown packaging scares me that it will be brown hehe...
and Ill buy a horse brush.
do I need anything else beside these three in your opinion?
I think ill probably condition every 4 months and clean with a cleaner maybe once a year depending on the dirt.
do you think that will do?
currently the boot still has shine to it and is pretty soft to touch
I have also heard good things about Griot's Garage and Lexol for leather products.
Lexol has a combo kit that is pretty good for interiors. I know a buddy that uses it.
Which of the CG leather care products do you use? Sometimes they have so many similar products that it can be hard to find the right one.
I asked a similar question a while back, and it seems you clean it with leather cleaner and then treat it with a leather conditioner. Leather is treated animal skin, so you want to use a 'lotion' of sorts to keep it supple after you clean it.
I've been using this one for a couple years and love it. I apply before winter and then once before storing shoes for the summer. I use this cleaner before applying the wax. All in all it usually takes 20 mins per shoe.
Meguirs leather cleaner and conditioner: [https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10916-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0002V9IFU]
Meguiar's G10916 Gold Class Rich Leather Cleaner & Conditioner - 15.2 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002V9IFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XPDrDbCNYHBM5
Use Meguiar's for the seats every few months.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10916-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0002V9IFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495387042&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=meguiars+leather
Wash is, you guessed it, a Meguiar's product.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Gold-Class-Shampoo-Gallon/dp/B00068OU7U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495387140&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=meguiars+gold+class+car+wash
For a wax, I really like the NXT 2.0, also from Mequiar's.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G12718-NXT-Generation-Tech/dp/B0002UQATS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495387101&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=meguiars+nxt+tech+wax+2.0
Dash protectant, I use 303.
https://www.amazon.com/303-Protectant-plastic-finished-leather/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495387193&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=303+protectant
Now, for washing, you want to always use (2) buckets, each with a grit-guard at the bottom. One bucket is a rinse bucket for your cleaning mitt. You dip your wash mitt in the rinse bucket (which is just water) before dipping into the soap bucket each time you do a different section of the car. Helps to minimize swirling and contaminants ruining your paint.
Don't go in a swirling pattern when washing the car, instead, go in straight lines back and forth.
After rinsing the car down, take your drying towel and lightly drag it in straight lines across the difference sections of the car. You don't need to apply pressure, just let it lightly drag across the car. You will see a light layer of water left after dragging the towel across. That's fine, it will dry quickly and gives the towel some lubrication which also minimizes scratching.
Does it have any difference which color is the leather? I think it is pretty much stupid question :-) But I have no idea, how to maintain it. My car leather is beige.
I have tinted windows, but it mostly in the sun when I am at work.
I guess this is what you've suggested: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10916-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0002V9IFU
Here you go: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002V9IFU
The spray is a bit more diluted than a good cream leather cleaner, but it works. Buff well with a cloth while applying. Maybe try a q-tip or a toothpick for the holes if stuff remains.
Don't use autozone towels, the last ones I bought from there were 100% polyesther and can't absorb anything. I have a pile of these useless towels now and they're going to the garbage.
All links provided are Amazon.com links:
Get a towel that's 80% polyesther, 20% polyamide. It will absorb better. Meguiar's Supreme Shine towels. Get a bunch of them. Also a Water Magnet Towel for drying. When drying, you should get the microfiber / water magnet drying towel damp first, it will absorb more water much more easily.
Cheapest and quickest way to remove swirls, my recommendation is Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and some Gold Class wax. This kit has everything you need for $25 including the microfiber towels and foam pads: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G3300-Brilliant-Solutions-Restoration/dp/B004EB12FS
Expensive but quickest and most effective way, get Meguiar's DA microfiber correction kit http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-DMCKIT5-Microfiber-Correction-System/dp/B00CJ69F2W and buy the porter cable polisher. Also I recommend getting the Meguiar's car correction kit I linked above with this. You'll get excellent results.
Separate all your towels. Use dring towels only for drying, wax towels only for waxing, polishing towels only for polishing, and Glass towels (rainX) only for glass.
What you're looking for is either wax used on duster jackets. Or Otter Wax.
As for removing: An iron and paper towels or a regular towel is best. You can also use a waffle weave drying towel. These suck up moister like magic. To do the pockets, just stuff them with something to fill them out and give support. To make the surface flat, cut a piece of cardboard to slip inside.
Whatever you use, I suggest putting tissue paper between the iron and the towel. This protects the material from scorching/melting, and from getting a bunch of crap on the iron's shoe.
For a regular wash I'd suggest a product like Meguiar's Gold Class shampoo. You can find it at auto parts stores and amazon. Optimum No Rinse doesn't foam and is only intended for "waterless" wash (which really means 2 gallons of water).
P.S. Get yourself 3-4 good towels. I recommend these for their cost effectiveness + softness.
https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-X2000-Magnet-Microfiber-Drying/dp/B0009IQZFM/
Is this only for the windows and no paint? Do not ever use a squeegee on paint. For windows the glass is much harder than paint but still can scratch it yet this is very rare and your probably good. Have you considered a drying towel like below. Its $8 works amazing. No risk and you can use on paint.
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X2000-Magnet-Microfiber-Drying/dp/B0009IQZFM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1413229092&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=automotive+drying
get these towels: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X2000-Magnet-Microfiber-Drying/dp/B0009IQZFM/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497666477&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=meguiars+drying+towel
i know they're kinda overpriced but they're amazing and as long as you dont do something stupid like drop them and keep using them, they dont swirl your clearcoat. theyre quite absorbent too, so soft. 2 of these will dry an FR-S. The first one will be soaked, but is enough to get the beaded water off your finish, then use the 2nd one to mop up.
In terms of wax, that Meguiars Ultimate Paste Wax is amazing. Synthetic so it lasts much longer than carnauba, and ive never had a wax go on and off so easily. Dries in like 5-10 minutes, and buffs right off. I was amazed! Leaves a helluva shine too. I put it on my glass and exterior lights as well.
Here's a long thing I wrote for a friend just getting started. It was an email and i don't feel like fixing links.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050IQH9K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GG9FI8I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQZFM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1476666101&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=mother%27s+detail+kit
https://smile.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1476666178&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=wax+applicator
https://smile.amazon.com/Detailing-Multi-Use-Microfiber-Professional-Dual-Pile/dp/B01L4L4L26/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1476666651&amp;sr=8-17&amp;keywords=microfiber+buffing+towel
https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1476667551&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=meguiars+wash+mitt
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05664-California-Gold-Wash/dp/B0009H51B2/ref=sr_1_9?rps=1&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1476668207&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=car+wash&amp;refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
Do you have 2 buckets to use? Always set one bucket up with the soap water, and the other with just water. Soak up your mitt, wash the car, rinse the mitt, then soak again in the soap water. This helps reduce contaminants. If you want to go the extra mile, get these for the buckets to prevent dirt from swashing around the bucket:
https://smile.amazon.com/Grit-Guard-Insert-Red-Diameter/dp/B000N3W8J0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1476667750&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=grit+guard
It fits in a home depot bucket.
If you have particularly pesky tar or bugs on the car, you'll need this that you can get from any autozone type store:
https://smile.amazon.com/Stoner-Car-Care-Tarminator-Remover/dp/B0002LBGWI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1476667917&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=tarminator
WARNING **
When using the power lock (or any sealant / non-liquid wax), DO NOT let it touch any black plastic or rubber parts of the car!!!!! If it does, just wipe it off with a wet micro fiber cloth. Failure to follow this will result in a white hue on the black piece. You could always painter's tape off those areas that are hard to avoid.
Steps for this process:
1b) Bring the car to an area with as little sun light as possible for the next steps!
Did the same thing in March and filled it with epoxy. Hasn't spread yet
Pictures:
http://imgur.com/a/RLQIJvP
Epoxy:
Permatex 81730 Flowable Silicone Windshield and Glass Sealer, 1.5 oz. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000BKEBO0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mMS4CbN4Q0WC8
Claiming comprehensive shouldn't raise your rates but it might. Fiance for her car broken into last month and we had to get rear and back Windows replaced. Plan renewal is in June and it went up $20 more a month. Not terrible but still sucks. Geico obviously said it wasn't because of it but I bet it is
Additionally, my rear window is tinted and has the special color shifting uv coating for the entire panel. I would have to pay to get it retinted and the new panel likely won't have the color shifting coating
Exactly that. The clear stuff you use for windshield repair. You take the old pads out and carefully flow that into the response groove.
It only has 8,500 miles on it. I was thinking it was defective, but the problem exists on both sides. It doesn't look like a manufacturing defect, just a crappy design. Here are some pics of both sides
As you can see, the side view mirror moldings look finished, not damaged and are mirror images of each other. The rubber seals go in passed (past?) the side view mirror just a few millimeters. To make matters worse, you can see that there is a channel in between the outer part of the seal and the part that touches the window...which means that pretty much any water that collects near that corner can easily run down the channel, into the gap, and down into the door. I know it would be temporary and I might have to reapply the gunk every now and then (which isn't a problem since I live in San Diego where it rains 7 times a year), but I would hope that there is something that can easily plug the hole up. Maybe something like this?
Had a double rainbow as well! Loved it!
seconding the seam sealing at home. Also, don't pay for the seam sealant from dealers. Go to an auto parts store or amazon and get flowable silicone. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BKEBO0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It's the same stuff but waaay cheaper. Also seconding waterproof testing before the trail. I took a garden hose and drenched it, don't just splash water on it and hope for the best. Its a lot easier to reseal it at home than get soaked on the trail.
>The key to keeping dust down is adding a dryer sheet while cleaning.
Yep.
I use cheapie new ones (Kroger house brand) & they turn gray pretty quickly. I also wet tumble after depriming (I like clean primer pockets & case interiors) and dry tumble with lizard litter and an occasional capful of NuFinish. After adding the polish run the tumbler 5-10 minutes before adding brass - avoids clumping.
I wet tumble after depriming to avoid running grimy cases thru my sizing dies, do all my case prep (size, trim, chamfer, flash hole uniforming rifle cases) then dry tumble to deal with the brass particles from prep.
Between Armor-All car was for wet tumbling and Nu-finish for dry, the result is shiny cases inside and out that stay bright until I get around to loading them.
yep i use a rotary buffer to buff, then [NuFinish] (http://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid-Car-Polish/dp/B000BPSW7C/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408709206&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=nu+finish) to polish. I'm sure any good polish will work, but that's what i use. and i messed up my comment above. You buff, THEN polish.
Also, if you don't have a spray gun, you can use a 2k bomb clear can not be found in stores. it's does better than a normal spray can of clear coat. a normal spray can probably wouldn't look too bad, but the 2k stuff will do better. the 2k can has a hardener that makes the lens much more UV resistant to fading. Since you seem like you are going to try this: let the clear coats sit and dry a day, then run that over with a 2k sandpaper before you buff then polish it.
Use a squirt of Nu Finish in your tumbler for each load you do. It'll help polish the brass better than just the lizard bedding will. Should be readily available at your local Wal-Mart, too.
Personally I avoid anything wax based. I refer to used the petroleum based Nu Finish because it doesn't leave residue like wax, and it goes on and comes off easy. I started using it on my airplanes and have since found it is good for cars, to, even plastic trim.
Just did a hand-wash with microfiber towels, wiped the car dry, and then used a product called Nu Finish for the wax. It's like 10 dollars a bottle and is super easy to use - I poured the liquid on the damp towel I washed the car with to apply the wax, then let the wax dry to a haze, and then buffed out with a dry microfiber towel. Wash/wax took about an hour to do myself, which is worth it considering how long a the Nu-Finish stays on.
EDIT: Amazon link
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BPSW7C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465775620&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=Nu+Finish&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41TQElpWDtL&amp;ref=plSrch
You have quite the garage going there, and a good list of car care items. I was keeping up with a family and 3 cars, so my extra detail time was never quite abundant over the last few years. I previously had an arsenal of products like you, but narrowed it down to 3 to simplify and ease my busy life. I really liked the Nu Finish Liquid Polish and then gravitated to the wash last to cover was the plastic, rubber, and leather protectant. I had a couple different products, but the NuVinyl did all, including leather, that armor-all (basic) does not. As mentioned, I just had to simplify for many reasons and this worked for me. It may not be the professional kit of choice, but 3 products help keep my 3 cars in great shape.
And as far as applying compounds, polishes, or waxes, I spent years doing it by hand until I gave Meguiar's DA Power System a shot. Costs more then by hand (initially), but it goes quicker and produces a better product. This is the only product I tried, I am sure there are plenty of other options out there. Good luck cleaning!
Oh I didn't notice you had said 'film', earlier! I tried RainX spray because I had some for my car anyway. This: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BVRZ74/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdo_t1_7zHlDb8KXA2PP
So I can't speak to the film idea... Sorry. The RainX spray did work much better than spit or shampoo, though.
You can use either of these I just use the meguiars gold class because I got Collinite and didn't know what to do with the leftover carnauba wax
Rain-X Glass Treatment Trigger - 16 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BVRZ74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_USbHxbVN12JFV
Meguiar's G7014J Gold Class Carnauba Plus Paste Wax - 11 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lTbHxbZGBRHHM
Cleaner and rain-x: http://www.amazon.com/Rain-X-5071268-Glass-Cleaner-Repellant/dp/B000NWJJLG/
Just rain-x: http://www.amazon.com/Rain-X-Glass-Treatment-Trigger-oz/dp/B000BVRZ74/
Rain X
Try that until you get it fixed. You can get it at AutoZone. You'll have better visibility.
Apparently
Try Rain-X
All right, so this or this? And should I get an applier like this, or can I just use a regular sponge?
Thank you guys! Question-- should I get both the cleaner and the conditioner and apply both or should I just condition it?
And this is the correct product right? https://www.amazon.com/Lexol-1015N-Leather-Conditioner-16-9-oz/dp/B000QFORK8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474643721&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=lexol&amp;th=1
My shell feels dry, should I use this?
This is the one I use. Works great, no complaints.
I haven't used it myself, but a lot of people tend to recommend Lexol Leather Conditioner if you just want to protect the leather without any discoloration. Keep in mind it does not repel water like Obenauf's or other beeswax products would.
Ha, well that's annoying. How's this link. No, you only need to condition them when the leather starts to feel dry.
Leather conditioner. I use Lexol on my preowned leather purses and it makes them much more supple
They'll only take a week or two to break in if you wear them all day. I picked up some Lexol leather conditioner for my Top Siders based on recommendations here and elsewhere. Really awesome results – softer leather that's a little darker and much richer in color.
Unless you can bang out that from the back there's no hope to straighten it with home tools. It can be done from the outside with a stud welder + puller (video) but this is something best left to pros. It's much easier to replace the door for ~$200-500 at a junk yard, search car-part.com -- thats what my insurance did for a similar issue, came out to almost a thousand bucks at the body shop when you add the paint and labor on. But if you do it yourself you might be able to just get one in the right color and not paint it.
If you just want to fix the paint, just do the touch up. Call your dealer to get a small jar in the right color. You can fix the other less deep scratches with polish (heavy cut, light cut).
Also check this channel out if you are interested in how professionals do it: https://www.youtube.com/user/tussik01/videos
Hi, I'm really new to detailing so can you explain what you did exactly? I googled your terms and got these.
http://www.detailedimage.com/Meguiars-M43/Ultra-Cut-Compound-M105-P388/32-oz-S1/
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC
They are both polishes, right? Those sure are expensive..And you need a orange pad? A white pad? I see those pads in the first link I posted, detailedimage..The total cost for a newbie to do this is like around $60-70? Damn..I might have to live with the few scratches. Trying to invest in buckets and the whole newbie starter kit.
Torq22DDA: Torq22dD
Pads: ChemicalGuys orange then white for finish
Compound: Meguiar's M205
Ceramic Coat: Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light (didn’t use the exo to humid for application)
Sealant: Gtechniq C2 Liquid Crystal v3
Microfiber: Chemical Guys MIC_507_06 Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towel, Gold (do not skimp out on your MF!)
Sorry, I called it the wrong name. It's Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish. My plan was to use M105 OR M205 to polish, and NXT to wax. In between those two steps I was told I could use Isopropyl Alcohol. I don't know if this is true or not but that's definitely a cheaper option, lol.
I just use a wet wash cloth. I don't really like shiny seats. Whatever you do, do not use any foaming cleaners or glass cleaner, it ruins leather.
Edit: Chemical Guys VRP is good stuff as well, or you can use their leather cleaner and conditioner. It doesn't usually leave an oily slippery surface.
Chemical Guys Leather Cleaner and Conditioner Complete Leather Care Kit (16 oz) (2 Items) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TJ3HUG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0nbwDbFHCQCMQ
Chemical Guys TVD_107_16 V.R.P. Vinyl, Rubber and Plastic Non-Greasy Dry-to-the-Touch Long Lasting Super Shine Dressing for Tires, Trim and More (16 oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FJIT9BO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LobwDbE8K7AHH
I've been pretty happy with this kit. got the green fuzzy brush and some of their blue block towels too.
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-SPI_109_16-Conditioner-Complete/dp/B001TJ3HUG/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464311150&amp;sr=8-12&amp;keywords=chemical+guys
In general for leather seats, after you get the mold remediated and the seats dry, I'd use a good quality leather cleaner and then a leather conditioner. This stuff from Chemical Guys is pretty good and it is leather scented if you want to boost the leather smell too.
Hmm, I use their leather cleaner, then the conditioner. Keeps the leather supple. Shampoo for the carpets, and generic cleaner for the door sills.
https://www.amazon.ca/Chemical-Guys-Leather-Conditioner-Complete/dp/B001TJ3HUG/ref=pd_sim_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=A4SFHC2H7HPTZY06GBY3
I use chemical guys cleaner and conditioner and am very happy with it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TJ3HUG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_w3kQybTHD65H4
Best thing to do is keep them clean and conditioned. I like the Chemical Guy's stuff (https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-Leather-Conditioner-Complete/dp/B001TJ3HUG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496751911&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=car+leather+conditioner) but any leather conditioner should do.
Remember, leather is just skin, don't let it dry out! Condition the leather every couple months.
Chemical Guys Leather Cleaner and Conditioner about once a month. Takes an hour, and I'll do it while I watch tv
Have you tried/do you use their 2 step/2 bottle or single bottle product?
Seems like the separate steps would be better, but if their all in one bottle does the same job then why not?!
I'm planning to write a post in the interior soon but for now...
The first step is to give everything a really good going over with a vacuum. This is where you need to spend most of your time. Almost everything that's not leather can be cleaned with an All Purpose Cleaner (UK link and US link):
Spray it on, agitate with a brush (ordinary paint brush will do). Then...
If it's fabric - vacuum with a wet-dry vac (use a cloth if you don't have one)
If it's trim - wipe dry with a microfibre (UK link and US link)
To protect things I really like 303 Aerospace Protectant... it protects against fading caused by UV radiation (UK link and US link)
Leather is a different kettle of fish and you need to use a cleaner then a conditioner (UK link and US link)
I don't have Lexol at the moment but will buy some since it's not too expensive. I also have this product which I use to clean and condition my car's leather seats. You think it would do any harm? I currently have coconut oil at my disposal as well, I might apply a really thin layer to test it out.
I actually don't mind the darkened color since I do like the color of Amber Harness too. However, I went with copper because it looks better to me and If i want it dark I can always oil it to achieve a darker shade (based on what I've read). Since it will fade over time, I don't have any issues with the coloring :).
Spot this guide. I've learned that /u/a_robot_with_dreams is a god with GYW.
Interesting enough, only a few hours ago was I reading about shoe care today. So basically, unless you are trudging through the depths of hell, stick with just leather conditioner. That can be [Venetian shoe cream] (http://www.foresupplyco.com/productDetail.asp_Q_catID_E_48_A_subCatID_E_55_A_productID_E_703_A_strSession_E_11CDE680EB31BEC5B749AC768C51E5CDB07E9B03), Obernauf's leather oil cleaner, or whatever. You will not need all those waxes and such, as mixed in with Obernauf's Heavy Duty LP. Do your best to not use too much conditioner.
Seems like the steps are, when you do your monthly or biannual or whatever schedule conditioning you choose...:
5a. Optional: Polish or wax if you're a clean mofo or likes to get down and dirty like mentioned above. Re: Polishing (and wax?)...seems like it's mostly on dress shoes and formal footwear. Since we're talking about boots, skip
Repeat every blue moon or something.
I'm a fan of Obenauf's Leather Oil, doesn't wax the pores like the LP (too heavy for even most footwear, IMO) but will soak in nicely. Wipe down your jacket of excess, and leave to proof somewhere warm for a while.
Not familiar with the Saphir product, but I use (Obenaufs Leather oil)[https://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-Leather-Condition-Restore-Applicator/dp/B003EAW57E]
on my CXL Alden Indy's and don't have any issues with water damage after 6 years of pretty un-babied use.
This stuff?
Obenauf's Leather Oil Condition Restore Dry Leather (16oz With Applicator) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EAW57E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rOz4CbWBSMAD0
Yeah, you probably need a good cleaning with saddle soap. You can get it on Amazon.
Then get a good polishing in with obenauf.
http://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-Leather-Oil-16oz-Restores/dp/B003EAW57E
Got to keep your boots oiled. I use Obenauf's once every four to six months depending on weather conditions.
I love love love leather dye it really is so easy. I have dyed coats, purses, boots, and a pair of pants so far. I use Fiebings Leather Dye amazon link. There are lots of tutorials out there but I'll tell you what works for me. This is for boots because I wanted them to last, purses coats etc were a lot less steps but anyway!
0-I didn't do this step because the chemical is illegal to buy in California but if you have a coated leather piece, something that's really shiny is usually how you would tell I gather, you would use a leather stripper here. But again I never did this.
1-Wash with Fiebings Saddle Soap
2-After it dries paint on your leather dye. I always did two coats although a lot of times it didn't need it.
3-After that dries buff the item to remove excess dye. If you forget to do that (like I do sometimes) dye will rub off on stuff.
4-Coat the item with something to perseve leather. I use either Obenauf's LP Boot Preservative or Obenauf's Leather Oil
That's it! And I definitely find the item looks a lot better after dye. The Obenaufs makes leather look amazing. And it's not animal oil so I like it a lot more than mink oil say.
I work as a detailer and my tool of choice is a brush with rubber "teeth" on it similar to [this one] (http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_S06-Professional-Removal/dp/B0042B4B3U)
I swear by this one. Only $7 and works like magic. Hold a shop vac and brush into it. The carpet looks brand new again (sans stains if you have that, but that's different)
Rubber Pet Hair Removal Brush https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042B4B3U/
I see that you've already solved your problem, but for the future, rubber brushes like these are super helpful for getting cat hair off of fabric.
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACCS06-Professional-Removal/dp/B0042B4B3U/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422610539&amp;sr=8-23&amp;keywords=dog+hair+brush
Try a rubber comb/brush/broom, e.g. http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACCS06-Professional-Removal/dp/B0042B4B3U
But instead of pulling it straight down through your beard like a normal comb or brush, draw it in a shaky side-to-side motion from top to bottom so that the rubber bristles work their way in among your beard hairs.
I've had great luck removing cat hair with either of these items:
Pet Rock
Rubber Pet Hair Remover Brush
If you follow the brush or the rock with a vacuum it makes really quick work of pet hair.
This one by chemical guys looks a lot better than the one I have, mine is tiny. I think I'll be buying this one the bristles look identical this version is just larger.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0042B4B3U/ref=mp_s_a_1_20?qid=1398693252&amp;sr=8-20&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
Eraser Wheel
Grab one of these from Amazon or locally if you can find one and hook it up to a drill. People (myself included) use these to remove decals and such from vehicles. So if it is safe enough to use on automotive paint you can be assured that it won't hurt your flooring.
You will have it up in no time with one of these.
A plastic razor blade and some liquid adhesive remover will work as others have mentioned. Another alternative is a eraser wheel. You just need to be careful with these as they create a lot of friction and burn plastic fairly easily. They are the correct tool for the job though.
I upgraded my method this time around and it went a lot better than my last car. I used a heat gun to warm up the badge (kept checking surrounding paint with my fingertips) then used some braided fishing line (25lb) with zip ties on each end to save my fingers. Sawing motion with the line behind the badge. After I carefully pop it off I did a combo of rolling the adhesive off (quick heat gun helps) with my fingers and using an eraser pad at low RPMs. Those things are amazing and it did zero damage to the paint. Rinse, wash and wax the area afterwards. If the truck wasn't brand new it might need some paint correction to make things look right.
Way cheaper than what the dealership wanted and only took me 30mins.
In another thread someone suggested a smart eraser - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00488DDB8
They said that it worked really well. I'll be trying it out Monday on a large amount of adhesive
This tool has worked well for me, removed a lot of stickers and decals
You can take paint transfer off your car with some polish and an applicator pad:
Polish: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G19220-Ultimate-Polish-fluid_ounces/dp/B004HCOE8Q/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=meguiars%2Bpolish&qid=1556888366&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1
Applicator: https://www.amazon.com/Viking-Car-Care-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B001GJ9JV0/ref=sr_1_3?crid=TF14W8WDIISK&keywords=polish%2Bapplicator&qid=1556888486&s=gateway&sprefix=polish%2Bappl%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-3&th=1
I've used this method before, works great. Just remember to clean the area before and after, and consider adding some wax after.
Here is the desktop version of your link
Hello,
I've read the wiki and its a huge resource. Thank you to all who put it together!
Some of the product reccommedations are unavailble on Amazon so I just wanted to ask a few questions with regards a brand new car I bought and see if these products are whats needed:
So firstly, washing the exterior of the car:
I have Meguiars Gold class wash, I have two buckets, and grit guards, I will do the two buckets method. Now do I dry the car with:
this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ERU0F3A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A1RKELVBY446LD&amp;psc=1 or
this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GXRFLY4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1RKELVBY446LD&amp;psc=1
Once I have washed the outside and dried it with the towels, I then apply the wax, I will be using #845 - can I use these to apply it:
https://www.amazon.com/Viking-Car-Care-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B0051MYL8E&amp;pd_rd_r=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C&amp;pd_rd_w=HVEIG&amp;pd_rd_wg=6EheM&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C
I know I needs to get a clay bar or a micro sponge I'm just not sure where/how this fits into the process, what items do I need to buy
These?
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=pd_bxgy_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B0002U2V1Y&amp;pd_rd_r=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C&amp;pd_rd_w=HVEIG&amp;pd_rd_wg=6EheM&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
Lastly, I am buying this window cleaner -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006SH4KU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
Is it safe to use inside and out? I would imagine spray directly on outside windows and just use some microfiber towels like this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WC5KQGE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1RKELVBY446LD&amp;psc=1 to clean it off? On the inside I would imagine spraying directly onto the cloth would be better.
Do I clean the outside windows after the car has been cleaned and waxed?
I understand the basic process and with this being a new car I want to be 100% I'm doing the right thing, I fully intend on washing it every other week and taking great care of it!
Thanks
Tim
Like this?
Turtle Wax T-241A Polishing Compound & Scratch Remover - 10.5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009JKGJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JToqDbD8N20PT
With this?
Viking Car Care 862400 Microfiber Applicator Pads - 5 Inch Diameter, Blue, 6 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8UoqDbG3V6T3Y
https://www.amazon.com/Viking-Car-Care-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E?th=1&amp;psc=1
I hate holding and folding MFs so that was my solution. They are good quality. I first bought the Chemical Guys one but they are utter garbage.
If you scroll down from your link, you should those round microfiber pads. Here
By hand with a microfiber pad
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051MYL8E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I made sure to try and follow this guide: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html
Here is the type of pad you shuld get... https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051MYL8E/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494442082&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=microfiber+pad&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51k5PkFDqkL&amp;ref=plSrch
Meguiar's D156 is your friend, if you want to give it a little shine once it's clean. Spray a microfiber, wipe it on, then wipe it off. Works on plastic, black trim, everything.
Have you tried applying this product to the rubber seals? Obviously you shouldn't have to, but it helped significantly quiet down my panoramic sunroof seals.
https://www.amazon.com/303-Rubber-Protectant-Conditioner-Weather/dp/B00T44D1R2
Which one of these for door seals that are sticky?
nextzett
303 Rubber seal
Can I ask you why it would make it worse? I'm considering using something like Evapo-Rust: https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-Original-contains-non-toxic-biodegradable/dp/B00M0TLQ66
https://smile.amazon.com/303-Rubber-Protectant-Conditioner-Weather/dp/B00T44D1R2?sa-no-redirect=1
Here are some of my Go-To's for restoring old tools and metal parts:
Rust removal: EvapO-Rust
Awesome because when you're finished with it you can dump it into the garden and your plants will love you.
Sanding/Polishing up metal: Dico Nyalox Nylon Brushes
These last significantly longer than their wire counterparts and don't throw metal bristles into your skin. You can easily work up from grey to blue, but I find that often I can just start with the orange brush and it'll move enough metal. The blue gets it extremely shiny.
Polishing metal: 3M Scotchbrite Light Deburring Wheel
*For final finishing/polishing, you want the 'Light Deburring' wheel. You'll then just need to buy a drill arbor that matches the hole and go to work. That's easier than buying a grinder and using that. The finish that wheel leaves on metal parts is insane.
Is there a difference between 303 rubber seal protectant (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00T44D1R2 )and the normal aerospace protectant other than the applicator bottle and the price?
Mineral oil might work, it depends on the rubber. There's a good chance that you could damage or ruin them too, just be aware of that going in.
Here are some other products that might work:https://smile.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-408A-125ML-Rubber-Liquid/dp/B008O9X3KS/
https://smile.amazon.com/303-Rubber-Protectant-Conditioner-Weather/dp/B00T44D1R2/
Edit: I was assuming they were older speakers and the reason the rubber was stiff was from drying out/hardening over time. If these are new speakers (i.e. the rubber is less than a decade or two old) you really shouldn't be trying to soften them up.
Something like this: 303 Rubber Seal Conditioner?
For rusted steel, I use Evapo-Rust. Afterwards, you can bring them back to a satin luster with 0000 steel wool. The 4-ought steel wool also works well on aluminum.
get an inline fuel filter. most fuel lines are 5mm(3/16"?).
De-rusting a step-thru is a pain in the but. You can buy some toxic acid crap that will do it, but you have to be careful you don't get it on yourself. I let apple cider vinegar sit in it for a week, drain, strain and refill it every other day or so. Then I'll do a day or so of Evapo-rust
Seems to be on sale at the momend on Amazon with free shipping w/ prime. Harbor freight also carries it and with the 20% off coupon that is always available it can be had for about $23ish and it is reusable!
I use Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax every 2-3 months. I wash with Meguiars Wash & Wax in the winter or Gold Class during the rest of the year and then finish with X-Press Spray Wax to refresh my wax coat after every wash. I’ve found that Ford paint/clear coat absolutely loves Meguiars formulas and the routine I use keeps all my Fords shining like wet glass. I don’t use paste waxes or ceramic coatings anymore because they’re such a pain to remove when it’s time to reapply. Liquid wax goes on easy, shines for 2-3 months, and then comes of just as easy so it saves you a ton of time when you have two or three cars in your household to maintain.
Most wheel stuff is pretty much the same but I use Meguiars Hot Rims on my wheels and Hot Shine on my tires around once a month or after every other wash and it keeps them shining beautifully. Keeping a coat of Hot Rims on the wheels prevents brake dust from bonding to them so you can just spray them off to keep them clean between applications.
For my black plastic trim and weather stripping I use 303 Aerospace Protectant once in the fall and once in the spring and it keeps it looking like new plastic and not greasy or overly shiny. The 303 has UV protection that prevents fading as well.
Here it is cheaper: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005JPJMI2?pc_redir=1398611072&amp;amp;robot_redir=1
Yes. It's the same stuff.
D156 is the "pro" version of the ultimate spray wax.
I agree with /u/Pinkman2012. Don't get the Eagle One stuff though. I've used it in the past, and at least for me, it was weirdly hard to remove. I REALLY like D156. That stuff is fantastic. Save some money and get the gallon. Once you use it once, you'll use it a LOT because of how great it is.
http://amzn.com/B005JPJMI2
Chamberlain's Leather Milk. It works great on my own leather boots (admittedly, I have thicker leather than most of what MFA wears) and I know women who use it on their bridle equipment (horse stuff that costs more than most man stuff.). It's incredible, I won't use anything else until I dabble into more delicate leathers. Oh, and it smells like almonds. Suck on that, coconut oil.
I use Chamberlain's leather milk for my leather jacket and chelsea boots
https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Milk-Conditioner-Cleaner-Applicator/dp/B007ZDDUCK
This stuff looks pretty impressive
Okay. I used Chamberlain's Leather Milk and it faded it a bit. You think I should I use boot cream, all natural leather natural conditioner or boot cream for this kind of leather?
Wow, just looked it up and there are like 10 different types of chamberlain's milk. Could you tell me the one? I'm guessing this one, Formula No. 1?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZDDUCK
I'd look into rubbing some of Chamberlain's Leather Milk into it.
I use that on my leather coat and my leather bags. Does an excellent job softening up the leather and resurrecting it from the dry dead state it could get in.
I use Optimum No Rinse Wash and Wax. Take a bucket with two gallons of water, add a cap full of this stuff, soak 4-5 microfiber towels and wipe all the grime off. Fold each microfiber into quarters and flip through the sides once they get dirty. If its really dirty or has some caked on grime, I'll fill a spray bottle with a mixture of the stuff and pre-treat the area. Dry with a dry microfiber. Cleans great, leaves a nice layer of wax, and has high lubricity so there is a lower risk of swirling up your paint.
>Best seat covers?
Get permaplate option, this will cover external and interior. Enjoy the seats without seat covers, I did put a seat cover so the baby car seat was on the cover.
>Best dash cams?
I really want this dash cam Blackvue DR590, saving up for one.
>Charging cable ok in weather?
I have been doing research on Chargepoint level 2 home charger. Its weather proof and if you install the 220v 32A version you can charge your car in 2 hours.
>Battery efficiency on the highway?
I only had my Prius Prime for a week now, hybrid works well. Drive in B mode and plan out your trips so you can charge at your destination. For example, we started to go to Target because they have a Chargepoint station. We shop for about 2 hours and by the time we get back to the car is fully charged. We can do all of our shopping using EV only.
>Toyota service centers only?
I got the extended maintenance plan so yes for me only Toyota service.
>Get that extended warranty or no?
I got the 7 year extended maintenance because I already know how much the dealer ship will charge for normal maintenance. I just want to have the peace of mind knowing everything is covered and did not want to deal is any issues. Plus if you get it during purchase I believe its at a bigger discount. Because I sign up for it the dealer ship gave me LoJack for free and 72 month financing 0 APR.
>Any reassurance that I made the right choice not waiting for the 2018?
I was thinking the something, at the moment you have a big advantage because they are trying to sell off the rest of the 2017 to make room for the 2018 models. I want to say you have more power to haggle, for example I was able to get 72 month 0 APR financing, free LoJack and $3000 off the asking price because I mention the local special and because I was prior military.
Additional accessories:
Black License Plate Frame
Auto Document Case
Neck Pillow
No Rinse Wash & Wax
Congratulation on the new car!
I definitely don't use machine or semiDIY washes like this. I wash with this soap and do a hand wash every week or so.
Edit: Typos.
Man, that's awful. Sorry to hear about that.
FWIW, I recently refurbed a Landis 3-in-1 shoe machine and this stuff worked wonders for removing the rust. It's non-corrosive, and seemed to pull off almost all of the rust with very little effort.
Wheel woolies make cleaning rims so much easier.
Hello! I bought a new car a little over a month ago and I wanted to do some basic cleaning with it, stuff that can be done maybe a couple times a month, since I never personally did that with my previous car.
Anyways, I live in SoCal so I'm trying to keep water usage to a minimum. This is my current "to-purchase" list that I'd like to buy soon;
ONR
iK Sprayer
Iron X
TRC Creature Edgeless 10pack
Mother's Tire Brush
ABN Wheel Woolies
Stoner's Reach Tool
Already have: Stoner's Invisible Glass, Costco multipack MF towels.
Will I still want to get a clay bar + wax for after washing, or is just washing every so often enough?
ABN Car Wheel Rim Cleaning 3-Piece Kit – Original Wheel Woolies Brush Stick Tool – Tire Woolie – Wooly Wand Set (3 Brushes) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L3KDUD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_29H4Cb8QDYCDY
I’ve had these for 3+ years and they work wonderfully on all of our rims (3 styles of 5-spokes). Worth every penny.
Like other mentioned, get the wheel woolies to keep the barrels clean.
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Unless the car is just going to sit in your garage and polished with a diaper then I wouldn't spend a bunch of money/time on it. Get one of the popular brake dust cleaners(like Sonax), do a good clean, maybe throw a cheap coat of wax on the inside barrel with whatever you have laying around, keep them clean with the woolies and then just go enjoy the car.
I believe these are the exact ones I am using. I bought them off amazon a while ago. Whoolies
Based on what you said about your wheels though I'd still recommend the EZ Detail Brush. If they're tight spokes, you probably won't even be able to utilize the large one. The other two are significantly smaller than the large one.
The only downside to the EZ detail is the spray back from the nylon bristles. As you pull it out of the spokes, it tends to spray back a lot of the chemical from the bristles wicking around.
Whatever you do don't wipe down a dry car or you'll just create a sandpaper effect by rubbing all the dust and dirt into the paint creating scratches. Buy some of this and dilute it in a spray bottle with water. Then you spray this on your car and wipe the dirt away.
Now the most important thing is don't touch your paint with anything but a quality microfiber towel. A regular old rag or terry cloth towel or even a cheap microfiber will just scratch and swirl your paint. Go to the rag company website and buy some of their eagle edgeless towels to use for your wipe down process.
It depends on how much time money and effort you're willing to put into this, but daily wipedowns are probably not necessary. Every 2-3 days is what I do usually...it all depends on how dirty your car gets in between. A full blown 2 bucket wash is a weekly thing for most people but again it depends on how much dirt has collected on your car and how often you're willing to spend time doing it. I do every 2 weeks usually.
Just purchased my 2nd grit guard today, in fact! Going to be big ballin with a three bucket system and try a rinseless wash in between actual cleanings which makes me extremely nervous, but everyone swears by it. My car's 7 years old and at 122k miles, so I'm beyond obsessing over every speck, thankfully. Definitely not doing it on a filthy car, though.
https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NRWW2012Q-Rinse-Wash-Wax/dp/B00GG9FB8U
Is that what your talking about? Sorry if I'm sounding dumb, i really don't know anything about this kind of stuff.
Curious, is this that what you guys are talking about? I wrench on my own cars but I’m such a noob when it comes to detailing lol
Optimum (NRWW2012Q) No Rinse Wash & Wax - 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qxNWCb7PCWQ18
Thanks. Sounds like it's not going to damage the car, so it's definitely worth trying. FYI, both ONR and Aero do, in fact, claim to be wax. So it's good to know that they, in fact, are not.
Last question, which one is better?
This:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GG9FB8U
Or this one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8DR0AO
And would both work while using clay for decontamination?
Can't go wrong w/ Wheel Woolies.
https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Car-Wheel-Cleaning-3-Piece/dp/B00L3KDUD0/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2V8RMFR4P8ZN6&keywords=wheel+woolies&qid=1574197344&sprefix=wheel+wol%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-4
> you should periodically add rubber protector or conditioner to the weather stripping / seal to keep it conditioned.
Had never heard of this, so I went and bought this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T44D1R2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Thanks for the heads up!
Flowable silicone.
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81730-Flowable-Silicone-Windshield/dp/B000BKEBO0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408764509&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=flowable+silicone
https://www.amazon.com/Rain-X-Glass-Treatment-Trigger-oz/dp/B000BVRZ74/