(Part 3) Best car electronics according to redditors
We found 10,636 Reddit comments discussing the best car electronics. We ranked the 2,281 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
here are acouple ones to consider
Dual cameras
single camera
Not Cheap
Try using this or this, with this to do this.
Rexing V1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sGtDzbK9MTK2Q
Or if you want a cheaper option:
Pruveeo F5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KZWMGFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZHtDzbCFSER78
And just youtube how to hide the wires
That one was an A118. I now have an A119 in front and back which have much better night capability than the A118. It's $88 without GPS: https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-Screen-Capacitor-Novatek-without/dp/B01IEQU9WK
$99 with GPS I believe.
As always, https://dashcamtalk.com/ is your friend.
what is the law on "right to record" in your place of existence?
if its legal to record someone without consent, i would get the cheapest security camera or dash cam and have it set up in the room. out of his sight and have it record 24/7 and just overwrite itself. then when an outburst happens, you have evidence
if i was you, i would buy https://www.amazon.com/Dash-Cam-Mirror-Mount-KDLINKS/dp/B0102CK1BS/ (It will run off of a usb wall brick) and whatever the cheapest 16gb sd card you can find is. so you will probably be in it for about $16.
I have both of these dashcams.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078B56BYJ
I've got one of these, $39.99 - works fine so far. SD card sold separately, get a class 10 to make sure. Already captured a close call of another driver not checking blindspot and moving into my lane.
Thats oddly specific...good luck haha
I'd also suggest buying a dashcam, literally plug and play (cigarette lighter) and turns on automatically when the car starts...also easy to hide cables behind trimming...this is the one I have and its hidden behind my rearview mirror, I dont even notice its there
Same, been looking at the A129 though my A119 has been great. (Get a High Endurance card also, I run a Transcend. Bought a couple Samsung EVOs because that was all that was available locally, died within 6 months. This has been going a year and a half).
Protip: As a first dashcam:
Low budget: Yi Dashcam
Mid: Viofo A119
High: Viofo A129
Highest: Some Streetguardian/Blackvue shit with park assist and beams info to your phone if someone breathes on your car, at that level you should probably do some research.
There's a LOT of them out there but they use mostly the same components rebranded (Rexing, et al). I like these, just my opinion.
Edit: /r/Dashcam /r/roadcam
https://www.amazon.com/FOCUSPOWER-Bluetooth-Smallest-Invisible-Headphone/dp/B01M2ZOLLP
Now you can listen to whatever you want in your office.
I used to recommend E-Prance Mini 0803 or 0805 but it looks like they're not making them anymore. They're great little guys that you could hide behind the mirror and they were available under $100. These days if you're trying to spend under $100 I'd say trying this one.
Some other general rules for dash cams that you should follow:
super glue it to one of these problem solved.
> There are some on eBay that claim 1080p and have night vision for as little as $15, are they all garbage?
Garbage, pure garbage.
> If so what's the cheapest one that's at least ok?
So it depends what you want, IR dash cams are like this:
There are Uber/Taxi cams in the dash cam build:
This has an IR camera rear, so it can record the interior at night. It also shows you the weaknesses of an IR camera, limited IR light spread/brightness, distortion of color due to removing a filter (to be able to see IR light) ect.
Examples of IR spread: Warning Uber drivers with bad customers: Uber driver #1 or Uber driver #2
There are normal dash cams:
Dashcam + Micro SD card + Hardwire kit = cost. Different vendors offer different things included/excluded.
Discount code: Receive $10 off with "top5blackboxmycar" when shopping for a dash cam over $99.99 at BlackboxMyCar.com
*Note: I pulled a lot of links from BlackboxMyCar.com, but look around for the best price, I just wanted you to be aware of the discount code.
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Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good/Fair video quality:
1 ch systems: These don't have wifi/cellphone app:
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Lackluster parking mode, fair/poor build quality, Excellent video quality:
True 4K:
So 4k has a lot of "marketing" around it, some are sold as 4k, but are not 4k dash cams. This one is one of the few actual 4k dash cams on the market, but you give up a lot, and you will require larger 128/256 GB MLC based High Endurance product Micro SD cards, that have error correction built in. They will eat up the cards quicker, and may not what you want in the end.
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Or you could pick these:
Example of poor build quality:
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There is a huge amount of buyers remorse in dash cams. What I can say is fully research the dash cams you want, and the dash cams you don't, so at least you understand your decisions. Picking Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, and good/fair video quality dash cams is a lot less hassle, above I listed only Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, good/Fair video quality dash cams, but there are Excellent video quality, Fair/poor build quality, lackluster parking mode dash cams out there that is worth knowing about. Anyways good luck in your decisions.
*Edit: Prices change rapidly in the dash cam market, however, the copy pasta does not. I have seen prices rise rapidly, and fall just as fast, for no apparent reason, even as newer models have been released.
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So If I was going to spend money, I would pick: The Transcend 32GB Drive pro 520 or if I wanted a better IR spread, BlackVue DR650S 2CH IR, or Thinkware F770 CH IR.
If I was going for price, I would pick: the Xiaomi Yi Dash cam, it doesn't have IR, it should be taken out of the vehicle when not in use: Lipo batteries crack/leak/swell/ect and lens can spin around causing out of focus problem. There is no lack of problems with the Yi, heat problem, 165 ultra wide angle lens is too wide, causes fish eye, motion blur, and distorts distance/speed, build quality issues, not discreet. However if you take it out of the car when not in use, it is a runner. -
You can apply: Paint, or apply shelf liner - do not cover the vents. This extra step may void warranty, and may reduce the lifespan of the dash camera it self - Black heats up quicker than silver.
If I were to pick a dash cam for normal use: pointing towards the road: Thinkware F50 1CH or BlackVue DR4501 CH.
If I wanted a dual camera: well I would have to list them, and I haven't yet, and I am at 8000+ characters out of 10,000 for this post.
I have this one in my truck that I drive with ride-sharing for the added benefit of monitoring passengers: Vantrue N2 Dual Dash Cam-1080P Front and Rear Dual Lens Dash Camera 1.5" Near 360° Wide Angle Car Dashboard Camera Video Recorder w/ Parking Mode, Motion Detection, Front Camera Night Vision Effects https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WQ7K6C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dLuYAb5W4DR4Z
And this one for my car as it has a rear mount camera: Rexing V1LG Dual Channel Car Dash Cam FHD 1080p 170° Wide Angle Dashboard Camera Recorder with HD Rear Camera, Built-in GPS Logger, 16GB Memory Card, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LPV7G6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9MuYAb0PX2AA1
Getting a dashcam was the best investment I ever made. The security and peace of mind that comes with it are just great - if some asshole does me wrong on the road, I'll have video evidence of it so it'll never be my word against theirs, and I'll always be protected in that regard. I run it every time I drive, and use it in all of my cars.
And you don't need an expensive one to get excellent-quality video! I have a G1W, which you can get on Amazon for about $53, give or take. It records in full 1080p HD. Check it out!
WiFi dashcams range from $40 and up on Amazon. I picked up an Anker Roav C1 for $69 a couple weeks ago for this precise reason. Easy to install and works well enough.
Hey, I got a dash-cam a couple of months ago and I had the same concern. I ended up getting this one because of its minimalist but functional design.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UUQD9L6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Its a capacitor style dashcam, so no worry of battery problems due to overheating (say if you live in a hot climate during summer) but the tradeoff is that it can't be set to record when you are gone.
The Rexing V1
Tremendous reliability and great customer service.
A new model is out, featuring an in-built GPS and a rear cam, but it doesn't ship to India.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01IEQU9WK/ref=sspa_mw_detail_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2E2D732KBQJI9
I really like this one. It's small, so that it's easy to tuck away out of your LoS, but still has a screen.
Price went up a few bucks to $86. http://amzn.com/B00TXR2P40
The Youtube video has been stabilized, but otherwise hasn't been altered.
At the time, the wirecutter review of dashcams liked the G1W the best. I bought this one from eBay for $45 with free shipping from China.
When it arrived the suction cup mount was defective. It was only $45 so I didn't bother reporting it as arriving damaged. Instead I bought this rear-view mirror mounting kit from Amazon for $12.
I also bought this 12 volt to USB power converter from Amazon for $8 so I could hard wire it into the car power. My rear-view mirror has switched 12 volts on it which I tapped into for camera power.
I used a normal microSD card for a while but it died pretty quickly due to the constant writing. I bought this heavy duty 16GB card for $11 on amazon.com and it's been working great for the last 9 months.
Pretty cheap insurance if you ask me. If I had it to do over again I would buy the version of the G1W that uses a capacitor instead of an internal battery or I would try out one of the cameras that the wirecutter now is suggesting.
Enjoy!
It's the nicest head unit I've owned, but it still feels slightly dated. Weird shit, like there are two USB ports on the back and one is for iOS devices, and one is for Android, so if you want both you need to run two cables out from behind the dash. Even stock Chevrolet radios these days seem to support both out of a single USB. The interface is "meh", I don't love it but I don't hate it. The biggest thing I miss is a physical volume knob, but I would have had to get a smaller screen and I didn't want that.
Honestly the reason I got it is because of The Wirecutter's Review. If I weren't looking for CarPlay/Android Auto, I probably would have gotten a different one, but I love having Spotify & Google Maps in my car.
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-A118-Stealth-Dash/dp/B00NG84AT0/
The VIOFO A119 is often recommended as the best budget dashcam. I have one myself, and it has worked well so far.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IEQU9WK/
Honestly, it's nothing too impressive.
Those aren't the products I used specifically, but that above combo should run you around or under $150 and will give you everything you need to wire up your car like mine.
Camera: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B078B56BYJ
SD Card: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B073JWXGNT/
My car was intentionally struck in a fit of road rage a month after getting this cheapo and the other driver sped off without leaving any info. This camera proved he was 100% at fault. This $50 camera got me a $1,700 check as opposed to being shit out of luck. If you want more info on the camera, feel free to DM me or just read the Amazon page. Absolutely worth the price. I bought it in late June and drive 1 hr+ every day, the memory card just got full and is overwriting the old videos automatically.
EVERYONE SHOULD HAVE A DASH CAMERA INSTALLED IN THEIR VEHICLE.
There's no excuse anymore. People are freaking CRAZY. And, god forbid, if something like this happens and it's your word vs. theirs, it's nice to have video backing your story up.
They're CHEAP. They last. You can hook them up to either be on all the time or when the vehicle is running.
From Amazon:
A mere $100 brings a lot of peace of mind. I know it makes me feel a little safer. Plus, I tend to drive safer, because I know it's there, and, if something happens, I don't want to be the one at fault.
EDIT - added hyperlinks to Amazon for the cam, wiring, and SD card. No need to PM me. I don't mind if you do, but...it was like I was hoarding the info to myself...and I thought it seemed kind of weird.
The major factor will be the quality of your other components—but with the B&W and the Rotels, if your ears are good you should be able to tell.
Recommendations:
I currently listen to the nuForce uDAC-II, with both headphones and studio monitors, and I like it very much. As I said above, it beats my (first-revision) Fubar II mainly in the stereo imaging and musicality departments, especially when used as a desktop DAC with the line outs. The Fubar was accurate as anything, but was a little flat to listen to for my taste. The Mk 2 may have improved things and in any case it's a very good DAC for desktop use. The others I have not listened to, but I hear very good things about the HRT MusicStreamer, and the Creative X-Fi product is bound to sound great, barring any difficulties you might have with installation.
Any of those DACs I am confident will give you an improvement in sound. Listen in the details; the tightness of the bass, the smoothness of voice, the sparkle of the treble, the placement of sound in the stereo image; all of those will be clearly and (hopefully) obviously improved with a good DAC if you're comparing from a default line-out. The first time you hear the difference it'll sorta knock your socks off...
Then again, if you don't hear a difference with your Apogee Duet II... perhaps it won't be that big a deal, and you can save yourself the investment. Also, is there a reason you can't use the Apogee with the PC or do you just want a dedicated connection for it? Another factor will be the source material, so make sure you're putting through CDs or lossless audio files, or at the minimum very high quality mp3's. Low bit-rate mp3's will sound pretty much the same regardless of the DAC you put them through...
tl;dr: In my experience a good DAC makes a huge difference, there are lots in your price range, make sure you'll be able to hear the difference in the investment, good luck, let us know how it turns out :)
(P.S: if it's ok to say so I'd be happy to sell you (or anyone else ;) my Fubar II (original version) for US$100. PM me if you want it!)
You might want to consider getting yourself a dashcam for your car just so you have a record if/when similar sorts of things happen in the future. About a year ago there was an incident in my hometown where an off duty police officer pulled a car over and proceeded to threaten to "put a hole right through" the drivers head. It was all caught on a dashcam and the officer eventually resigned as a result. Shortly after that I went out and bought one of these and it's been in my car ever since. I've not had to rely on it yet, but I'm glad that it's sitting unobtrusively on my windshield in case I ever do need it. I've also heard rumblings that some insurance agencies offer discounts on auto insurance if you have a dashcam, but mine doesn't and I haven't bothered to check with others to see if it's true or not.
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-A118-Stealth-Dash/dp/B00NG84AT0
https://dashcamtalk.com/
Black Box B40 A118 Stealth Dashboard Dash Cam - Covert Versatile Mini Video Camera - 170° Super Wide Angle 6G Lens - 140°F Heat Resistant - Full HD 1080P Car DVR with G-Sensor WDR Night Vision Motion Detection - NT96650 + AR0330 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NG84AT0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_P1EBwb1F53HEC
This one. It works great. I have it set to loop so it's always on and if I need to review footage I just pop the card into my computer.
I leave it in and it's hooked up to the 12V socket. Most are designed to be pretty hard to notice, and it's only powered on when the power is turned on.
I have a B40C and an A119C.
They're easy to remove if you choose to take them out of your car when you leave it, usually just snapping onto the mount. Depending on the model, some need to be re-hooked up, but some are wired to a GPS mount and the camera itself can just snap in and out easily.
Get one!
Yes, there is a version with a rear camera, I have one. This particular model has a GPS logger so you can pinpoint the location of a collision.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LPV7G6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apap_RthTF8tPaEhHZ
Roav makes a line of affordable reliable models.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DF8MQX1/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_ST3MDbYM247DT
Rexing V1LG and a 128 microsd card are practically mandatory in this day and age.
The one I've seen most often recommended is the G1W. The Wirecutter has a good review of it (link) and Techmoan has a review as well (link).
Techmoan also has a TON of reviews for other dashcams so go check out his channel. They're all interesting and quite informational, and surprisingly not boring to watch.
I personally have the G1W as well and quite like it.
EDIT: Amazon link: http://www.amazon.com/G1W-Recorder-Dashboard-Dashcam-Authentic/dp/B00JJ3L84G
The A118 is pretty cheap and shoots amazing video. It's also tiny, so it fits behind my rearview nicely. There's a capacitor version if you live somewhere with extreme temps. I've had mine for six months now and haven't had any problems.
because its not 1080p. its 640x480 or 720x480 interpolated up to 1080p. it would be kind of like me pointing my actual 1080p camcorder at my 32" tube Television playing a VHS Tape of a movie and saying "see" its 1080p except my version would probably actually look better than what you would get from this camera.
as a dash cam its not bad. it does what it needs to do. but its not 1080p and that price is way too high.
if you want a cheap "ok" dashcam go with this one on amazon for $36
https://www.amazon.com/PRUVEEO-Support-Dashboard-Recorder-Vehicles/dp/B01KZWMGFY
I have 2 of these. so far over 8 months they are still going. the video is crap mediocre 720p video that is kind of crap but usable and serviceable at night.
the wifi download is nice and it actually CHANGES the file name to SAV when you hit the button to save a clip which makes it very easy to slurp all your saved clips off the camera now and then.
if you have a heavy angle windscreen you want to check this before stickying it down IE you might need to shim it to get a more ideal viewing angle.
otherwise its reliable (never failed to start and record on me yet which is a really critical feature of a dashcam WTH is the point if it just does not work when you really need it too)
ok sound. ok video. low profile. good unit for the price. I am seeking higher quality but so far all my higher quality units just DIE after a few weeks or months.
I got a DDpai M6 and I freaking love it. it died 2 months in. Grrrr
Roav Dashcam S1
Probably possible. Not sure if it would be worth it. A dash cam with motion detection and an additional battery might be enough to ease you worries. I had one installed and it makes me feel a little better.
These were taken from https://www.reddit.com/r/Dashcam/
Best cam recommendations
Best value:
Best value Dual cams:
Budget dash cams:
Budget Dual Cams:
Dual Cams:
Two Channel as in Dual Cam?
If so, I've been using the Rexing V1LG ($169.99) since Aug 2017.
First one had an issue where one frame would be purple, this would happen every 5-10 minutes. A very, very minor issue, but still. Contacted Rexing, got it replaced.
Second one (after an entire year of use) would restart/no longer record/freeze. Contacted Rexing, got it replaced.
There is a 12 month base warranty and an extended 18 month warranty if you register the product on their site.
https://www.amazon.com/Crosstour-Dashboard-Recording-Detection-CR300/dp/B078B56BYJ/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3KVZ99PSK7RZU&keywords=crosstour+dash+cam&qid=1555009360&s=gateway&sprefix=crosst%2Caps%2C220&sr=8-7
some examples:
https://streamable.com/h6tis
https://streamable.com/o4c9u
It's a CrossTour CR300! $38 on Amazon and one of the best dashcams I've ever owned. Highly recommend. I live in Florida and drive a black car, so in the summer it frequently gets over 100 degrees and inside my car probably gets to 120. Haven't had a single issue* with the camera getting overheated or falling from its suction mount.
*I guess the only "real" issue is when my 64gb SD card filled up, the camera would record for a few minutes and then automatically power off because it ran out of space to record. As soon as I deleted irrelevant clips and freed up space, it worked perfectly again.
I also own a pair of the SR80is as well as a NuForce Icon uDAC-2 Black Digital Audio Converter. I would say it's the best investments that I've made for my laptop.
Highly recommend this one.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00JJ3L84G/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1450225416&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=g1w-cb&dpPl=1&dpID=51jytM%2BdLlL&ref=plSrch
I got this one and have been liking it. No problems with it yet and I can have it record 24/7 without having any battery issues.
Pioneer AVH-4200NEX Does both Android Auto and AppleCarplay. Has native OBDII integration + other native apps. It's the bees knees. I'm getting it very soon. It's expensive, but god damn, it's the best thing out there right now for head units. Also it's has super easy pop-out ant-theft screen, for easily removing it for when you park. (Parts of downtown St. Louis are really ghetto/risky to park)
Hopefully this link works. I believe this is the one I have. Be sure to get a reasonably sized SD card as well.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-Screen-Capacitor-Novatek-without/dp/B01IEQU9WK&ved=2ahUKEwj4o_Pl563kAhVS1qwKHTCbD9gQFjABegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw3FZcjuDW03zca90Q1q-muM&cshid=1567278636772
Been using this since March 2017 zero issues I like it because it has a 1080p 60 fps mode makes license plates very clear.
https://www.amazon.ca/VIOFO-Camera-without-Logger-Latest/dp/B01IEQU9WK/ref=sr_1_4?crid=30BBKL85KCTM1&keywords=viofo+a119&qid=1568122185&s=gateway&sprefix=viofo%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-4
Non shitty referral link
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XAV-AX100-Android-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B01MF9W0GU/
+1 on the A119. It is my first dash cam, and I have absolutely zero complaints after almost 1 year. For a clean look, you may want to consider hard wiring the cam to a fuse location that is active only when the car is powered, or always on. This is the hardwiring kit that is compatible with the A119:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0GR4ON/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Don't be intimidated by hard wiring; as a complete novice, I had the dash cam wired and running in 30 minutes.
Here ya go!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078B56BYJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rqNTBbEP96WPH
Roav DashCam S1, by Anker, Dash Cam, Dashboard Camera, Full HD 1080p Resolution, 60 fps, NightHawk Vision, Sony Starvis Sensor, Built-In GPS, Wi-Fi, Wide-Angle Lens, 2-Port Charger, 32GB microSD Card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DF8MQX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hARzDbK8MEJ0V
This one.
That amp isn't really going to give you the transient response with a passive sub with it's wattage output, especially if running all four outputs.
You'd probably be best off with the BIC. If you have the skills needed, you could possibly build a DIY with a decent/budget bare sub and something like a Rockville RPA9 bridged and using the 150hz crossover.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-W12K6D4-V2-Subwoofer-Compliant/dp/B07BMMS1LJ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536642739&sr=8-1&keywords=rockville%2Bsubwoofer%2Bcea%2Bcompliant%2Bk9&th=1
with this;
https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-RPA9-Channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B06XDRZD3D/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536642824&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=rockville+rpa9&psc=1
And this;
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=twister_B01MQQB9D9?_encoding=UTF8&th=1
would give you a hell of a lot of bass for around $300.
But that's ultimately up to you.
This is just my opinion, I only have a basic understanding of CarAv stuff, but for 500 you could buy a whole new sub and amp. I dont know who and how much it is to repair a sub tho, so maybe its a better deal. But from my experience, my MTX Terminators are great.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001JECAM2?pc_redir=1408200639&robot_redir=1
Add a decent amp (250-300) , and theres your 500. Chuck a wiring kit in there too, set aside a full day to set it up and your good!
Just finished installing a 4 channel amp with a ton of help today, took alllll day. And dont rush yourself if you do install it. There are tons of helpful youtube videos out there.
Just my two cents!
EDIT: Heres an ok amp, under 200.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BJF4V9G/ref=pd_aw_sims_7/188-5557484-9874164?pi=SS115&simLd=1
And my amp I use on my Terminators
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Wb4A0iVTrjr/p_236T4250D/MTX-Thunder4250D.html
Hope this helped!
On a budget, I would probably opt for the NuForce Icon. It's a USB DAC and has RCA outputs you can use to connect to your receiver.
On Amazon pioneer makes a shallow 10 inch. I had one for my ranger worked great! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_CPh7BbNBAKVGE
I put one of these under the back seat along with a small amp. Made a night and day difference.
https://www.amazon.ca/PIONEER-TSSWX2502-Shallow-Mount-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B00JQTU3QC
Dash Cam Mirror Mount - Fits Falcon F170HD,Rexing V1, Z-Edge, Old Shark, YI, Amebay,KDLINKS X1,VANTRUE and Most Other Dash Cameras https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0102CK1BS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_R7pDzbS81BPW0
I just copy pasted the share link. It seems to come with every adapter possible to fit whatever dash cam you have. Easy to install too.
Another thing. If you haven't tried just smooshing your wire in between the windshield and top interior. Mine fits in between without anything holding it in there, all the way to the side panel which it fit inside and then behind the rubber lining of the door which just pulled out and pushed back in then under my dash.
This earbud. It allows me to play a drone and a metronome at the same time while also protecting my left ear.
7506 @ $70 is a wonderful price. I say keep them and enjoy them until they're noticeably getting older. If you're new to headphones you will not be disappointed.
I will suggest investing in a udac to improve the sound quality from your computer. These honestly do make a huge difference. I've heard good things about the nuforce udac2.
Not that it helps you in your current situation, but I would 100% recommend getting a dashcam. It has saved me and is currently helping my sister out (I installed one in her car, check out my post history I just put the video up yesterday). Video footage resolves any doubts of fault AND insurance/police love having hard proof. I would point you towards this, it's fairly inexpensive and nearly invisible if you put it behind your mirror.
Either way, good luck with your current situation!
It's this cam. I got it about 3 years ago now though so I'm sure there are better ones out now.
The same type of scenario happened to me last week. I was sitting at a red light. The SUV in front of me started to reverse. Once I realized he was getting too close - it was too late...he hit my car. He was a driver for the company that owned the car. There were no witnesses. There was no damage to the SUV - only my car & no injuries. I didn't call the police because like the guy who hit you, he seemed cooperative & without witnesses, I really didn't think a police report would help.
I went to my appointment and got back to work an hour later. There was a voicemail from my insurance, which is GEICO, stating that the other guy filed a claim against me stating I rear-ended him. It's all up in the air right now; I am disputing what he said with GEICO and filed a claim with his company's insurance. The irony was I had a dash cam I had recently purchased in the car but had not mounted it yet. If that had been mounted, none of this would be an issue. I know it won't help what already happened, but if you are interested, here is what I am using: Black Box B40 A118 Stealth Dashboard Dash Cam
May I ask what made you buy that specific model? Just wondering because I just bought my first dash-cam (waiting for Amazon to deliver), and I hope I got a good one.
There's so many out there that I didn't know which to get, so I settled on the Auto-Vox simply due to number and rate of reviews.
Sony XAV-AX100
Sony XAV-AX100 6.4" Car Play/Android Auto Media Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SYXTAb8EPE0QR
I've bought 3 of these so far I love it. It has Android Auto & Apple Carplay for those people who refuse to switch to android. It makes my shitty stock speakers sound really good.
[Sony XAV-AX100](Sony XAV-AX100 6.4" Media Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TmRzybWFCMVG9) would be my suggestion. Recently swapped my App Radio 4 for this and couldn't be happier. It's only crashed on me once, and when it did it restarted CarPlay itself unlike my app radio which would need the car to be restarted for it to work agin.
Rexing v1g,. https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B071LPV7G6/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_107_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SAA91RHTVJSQNM3EXJ8Y
This is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LPV7G6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uzd5AbGV8Y8TQ
And buy the hard wire kit to go with it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074PBPPPN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gCd5AbM6Z35YK
The thing's saved me $1500 and at least one other innocent driver $$$$ (he would have been found at fault if not for me providing dash cam footage to the insurance companies) when some idiot sped through an intersection and totaled his car.
This is the new model of what I bought last year. It's cheaper than I remember. Amazon has pages and pages of them if this doesn't suit your needs.
Rexing V1LG Dual Channel Car Dash Cam FHD 1080p 170° Wide Angle Dashboard Camera Recorder with HD Rear Camera, Built-in GPS Logger, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LPV7G6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vw2yCbWGZD55B
Dash Cam, Crosstour 1080P Car DVR Dashboard Camera Full HD with 3" LCD Screen 170°Wide Angle, WDR, G-Sensor, Loop Recording and Motion Detection (CR300) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078B56BYJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XwmYBb97M9CFM
Dash Cam, Crosstour 1080P Car DVR Dashboard Camera Full HD with 3" LCD Screen 170°Wide Angle, WDR, G-Sensor, Loop Recording and Motion Detection (CR300) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078B56BYJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TC-RBbND9H02J
If you’re interested, it’s a great beginner cam. If you get it, make sure you get no larger than a 32 gb micro SD.
Check this one out. It's the one I have. It has both a front and rear camera. Apparently it takes a specific kind of SD card like this one. Definitely glad I got mine as I do a ton of driving for work.
I've been thinking about doing this for a while, just because I want to be able to display some custom gauges. You'd need a good touch screen + an install kit + a wiring adapter at the very least. For me, I'd also get something like this since the audio output quality from a Rpi has received mixed reviews at best. Then you'd need to figure out the best software to use, which I'm not very familiar with yet.
If you don't want to get into anything custom, a Pioneer Appradio would be much easier and probably cheaper too: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/ch.AppRadio.Compare
It would be difficult to find a proper headunit with a cassette, but i can give you a few items to go by.
Headunit - DEH-150mp
(dash kit, wiring harness and antenna adapter of course)
keeping budget in mind, and that that car has 4 4x8 sized speakers, i would get two sets of these adaptors to allow for 5.25 speakers.
I personally use 2 sets of Polk db522
and for the money they sound decent.
You could leave it like that and it would be enjoyable or you can go the extra step and get something like a RF4 channel amp, with amp install kit and be right around your 500 mark.
Keep in mind that i am far from an expert. Just wanted to give you a direction.
But you are wanting to hack / mod your stock radio to add aux in? Adding a new after market radio is a no brainier.
They will have everything you need at walmart or best buy. If you buy from crutchfield they will include everything you need.
edit: here is what you need: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Radio-Stereo-CD-Player-Dash-Install-Mounting-Trim-Bezel-Panel-Kit-Harness-/390708327192?fits=Year%3A2000%7CModel%3AAltima&hash=item5af807f318:g:37oAAOSwl8NVVOEU&vxp=mtr
Plus what ever stereo of your choice, here is a good cheap one I just put in my moms honda cr-v: http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DEH-150MP-Single-Stereo-Playback/dp/B0091V0A9U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463521607&sr=8-2&keywords=pioneer+stereo
I would recommend getting a bluetooth one though: http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DEH-X4800BT-Single-Bluetooth-Receiver/dp/B01463VLLI/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1463521607&sr=8-11&keywords=pioneer+stereo
The cheapest setup would be to get a basic headunit like this for $55.
If you want a subwoofer your options vary depending on what will fit behind the seat, but the rear outputs from the headunit can be used to power a 2 ohm subwoofer with 70 watts (according to Pioneer) so you can get by without an external amp. If you choose to go this route you'll have to run all 4 stock speakers from the front two channels, though.
I dont know what your financial situation is, but this one(~$50) is the cheapest one recommended by DashCamTalk.
The one I have is a mini 0803 which has been updated to the mini 0805 (~$80).
If you can find an affordable option that has capacitors instead of a battery, go that route as the battery will fail after a few months of hot weather and leave you without accurate time/date stamps on your videos, and you'll lose any other settings, but the device will still continue to work.
I currently have a SpyTec A119 on the way, but there are so many different features you may be interested in, take a look at that DashCamTalk site, or at least that BestOf page.
When it comes to driving, having a camera is always nice, I wish I had bought a nicer one sooner. There has been footage that was useless due to the poor video quality of my current cam. Unreadable license plates, or SAPD car numbers like in this video. I had a video of a guy turning in front of me, he had a snake around his neck, but upon reviewing the video you cannot make out the snake.
If you can afford it, definitely get one.
Most people suggest this one here I am using this but the capacitor version is always suggested over the battery. I haven't run into any issues so far. I can only see the corner of it poking out of my mirror so it doesn't obstruct my view.
I was able to hard wire it with these:
Power adaptor
Fuse add-a-curcuit
Subwoofer, Amp, 8 gauge cable kit, trim removal set, Fuse taps, and T-Taps
As for a guide, I just used other guides online and pieced them together. Really should have made a well-documented one when I did it, but I installed mine 6 months ago. Already forgot certain things. Just remember to look up the speaker wire colors for the back speakers before you tap into them and know that putting the power cord through your firewall from your battery is going to be a total bitch :)
Also just to clarify, the fuse taps are for the remote wire going into the amp. I tapped the sunroof fuse as it shuts on/off with the ignition (I don't have a sunroof, but it shouldn't matter if you do or not). Also also, that black cable going into my amp on the left side is a bass knob that came with the amp. That's wired all the way up into my glove box, so it can be adjusted easily if it becomes too much. The wires with kit and everything are long enough that you shouldn't need anything else, and everything tucks away in the door seem guides so nothing is showing at all.
I’d look into upgrading the front speakers and giving them more power. You could get a four channel amplifier and power a set of component speakers up front and bridge the rear channels of the amplifier to run a 10” subwoofer (rear door speakers would run off of the factory radio). Pioneer makes a 10” pre-loaded down-firing shallow subwoofer enclosure that doesn’t take up a ton of space and you can easily load things on top of it.
Not sure what your budget or car audio installation skills are, but here’s an example of what I’d do with your CX-5 for under $500:
Component Speakers:
https://www.crutchfield.com/I-rESTcVSL/p_091ISS165/Focal-Integration-ISS-165.html?tp=106
4-Channel Amplifier:
https://www.crutchfield.com/I-rESTcVSL/p_130GMD8604/Pioneer-GM-D8604.html?tp=35782
Subwoofer:
Pioneer TS-SWX2502 10 inch Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qy-EAb0AA96Y7
Mannn, you're gonna send me down a rabbit hole aren't you. That sounds very interesting. As an alternative I found this custom build: https://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/509-Another-Sub-Installation/page2
And I've had this in my Amazon wish list forever as something that should fit under the load floor without removing the spare: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC
in that case since you have a small car I'd suggest a shallow 10", something along these lines would probably work well, although I'd get a regular box.
With subs the box is key so a bigger box would give you more bass but if space is an issue then I think this would be ok
Either way, any subwoofer will make a huge difference! Cannot recommend crutchfield enough either, they have a ton of guides as well if you want to install it yourself, which isn't that difficult - just takes a while.
This page is showing up on google results now :] Thanks for your detailed response!
Here are some answers I've found:
--
Subs will not fit in the 6x9 punchouts in the package deck. If I want a perfect fit sub, I need to make the housing myself. The Slimline by pioneer looks like it would fit well: Here (this is the 10", they make an 8" which is approximately the size of the speaker.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NG84AT0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00
I really like mine. worth the price if you've got Prime, and comes with some cord holders so I can relatively-discreetly run the power cord around to the cigarette lighter.
You've pretty much described the A118-C. I have one and I like it. It gets the job done.
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Capacitor-GPS-Stealth/dp/B00TXR2P40/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1458922632&sr=8-2&keywords=a118c
I just replaced the G1W in my wife's car with a A118/B40 capacitor. $100 shipped from Amazon: https://www.amazon.ca/AUTO-VOX-Dashboard-Capacitor-Internal-Recording/dp/B00UUQD9L6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467903549&sr=8-3&keywords=A118
I was not a fan of the G1W, it looks awful, hangs really low and blinds the driver at night since the screen turns on at power-up and you can't tuck it behind the mirror with the giant suction cup mount.
I installed the A118 last night, so we'll see how it goes.
https://dashcamtalk.com/b40-a118/
http://www.techmoan.com/blog/2014/10/26/the-a118-b40-wedge-dashcam-review.html
I have an A118C; stuck it behind the review mirror next to the remote starter receiver, and it just looks like part of the mirror, if you even notice it at all.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00UUQD9L6/
It's mid range for pricing & features but easy to setup / use.
A118C. Got it for x-mas. Comes with great reviews, and I love it so far! It's on the sidebar of /r/dashcam along with some other options, depending on what features you're looking for.
Not as nice as another person's GoPro though, but that's because the GoPro is a $500 camera, and the A118 is $70.
Here's the GoPro footage: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZfH6DHnGjw
I use a dash cam with audio, I have installed this in both my car and my wife's. I am not sure if it will help in every situation, especially with a criminal who knows how to manipulate the system but it's at least one more tool in the good guys tool chest.
I use this to attach it to the rearview mirror if you can...summers and cheap tape dont mix well
Vantrue N2 Pro, been solid in the year and a half I've had it. I got this mirror clamp mount to use instead of the usual suction cup thing, $9 well spent (if a little annoying to get situated at first). I tuck the power cable through the headliner, down the door seal, and to the 12v outlet. Came out really clean.
This looks like it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0102CK1BS/
I wish I'd known about this when I bought the suction cup mount for mine.
https://www.wickedcas.com/370z-corner-stage1-package---stereo-system-jl-audio-.html
That's what I bought. And for the head unit I got this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D6HPMZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-FgGAbFTXTGM8
Most mid-upper level head units have the ability to plug in a backup camera. I think you'd be hard pressed to find a unit with Android Auto without a backup camera plug. Also, if it has Android Auto, you're guaranteed to have a USB port, as it's required, and all head units with the above mentioned features will most certainly have an aux input as well.
Also, I hear Crutchfield's customer service is top-notch. You should be able to give them a call with more specific questions.
Here are a few well-reviewed units I'm considering for my WRX with all of the features you listed:
Pioneer AVH-4200NEX
Kenwood DDX9903s
Sony XAV-AX100
Here is the Best Buy model
Here is the Amazon model
Both, from what I can tell are the same thing. Best Buy price matches Amazon under the conditions that they are "Fulfilled by Amazon, and are the same exact model"
The new practice for most B&M stores is to get the manufacturer to give them a "custom model" so they can get around the price match against Amazon. (Hence the 4200 vs 4201).
I'm technical, but have no experience taking apart my dashboard to get to the radio. I'm under the gun now, my girlfriends lease is up this month, and my car is never used, but she wants a backup camera, and for 700 bucks, it saves us 300 bucks a month.
Tried several cams over the years and purchased three of these for my cars (including VoltForce1). Flawless tech, easy install and blends really nice with the Windshield/OnStar module. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KZWMGFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_z13-Ab128FKKK
I've been happy with this one. I have one mounted on the rear windshield too since wannabe racers almost wrecked my car from behind trying to keep up.
I was skeptical at first of a single ear wireless earbud for listening to audiobooks, but since I'm not listening to full cast, sound-effect laden audiobooks on the regular, I figured I'd give it a try and if it was crap, I'd just return it.
But I gotta say that I listen a lot more than I did with a set of wired headphones. I just pop that little earbud in and I'm gone. It's got great sound for just audiobooks, I don't have to dink around with wires, it charges super fast and holds its charge for quite a while.
Here's the link to it in the UK, where apparently only one person bought it, reviewed it, and hated it. https://www.amazon.co.uk/FOCUSPOWER-Bluetooth-Smallest-Invisible-Headphone/dp/B01M2ZOLLP/ref=lp_13826562031_1_1?srs=13826562031&ie=UTF8&qid=1519335589&sr=8-1
I don't mind paying more, but I'm having a hard time finding something that works better than the $26 Focuspower F10. The battery life is surprisingly good (6+ hours), they are tiny and don't stick out much, and the audio quality is good enough for podcasts and not bad for music. If I shove them in and give them a twist they stay in place pretty well during a run, and they aren't uncomfortable.
It's a Sony XAV-AX100 You'll need this Metra Kit to fit the new stereo. If you have a Bose system you'll either need to bypass the Amp or get a line level converter. I started with the line level converter, the sound is better than the stock system but still not great. I plan on getting a new amp and speakers eventually. I just wanted bluetooth and Android Auto to start.
I have this one YI 2.7" Screen Full HD 1080P60... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C89GCHU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share that I just in the leaf and then
Roav DashCam S1, by Anker, Dash... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DF8MQX1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I have that one in my Prius. I like the Roav the best. It has GPS so speed in tracked also in case you get a wrongful ticket or need that info. They both work well though.
The one I have now is the Roav:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07DF8MQX1?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
barely notice it’s there unless you’re looking for it. The cam-to-phone wifi sucks balls though.
Supposed to be able to review footage on your phone but it’s like trying to watch HD Netflix on an Earthlink dialup.
Likely due to the resolution of the video, but you have to record in hi-res in order to capture license plates or for nighttime driving.
Had to review some footage the other day and connected it directly to the computer. Works fine for that.
Anker Roav C1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DF8MQX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ugQ1DbRFTWWW3
Looks like it's gone up in price, however. Looked at my order details and I bought mine a couple years ago for $50.99. I wouldn't be surprised if they have a new cheaper model.
This one is decent.
Item | Price
:--|:--
Alpine Type-R SWR-12D2 Subwoofer | $142
NVX JAD1200.1 Amplifier + Installation Kit | $305
NVX True Spec 1/0 Gauge Big 3 Amp Wiring Kit | $70
BBox E12SV 12-Inch Single Vented Subwoofer Enclosure | $40
Total | $557
That should be a good start. That gets your a basic enclosure (you might be happy with that, you might want to consider building a custom one or having one built), the subwoofer, amplifier, wiring to install the amplifier, and wiring to upgrade your battery and alternator cables.
I have that exact sub but I'm running it off a JL 1000/1d mono block amp. I had it in an enclosed box first and eventually moved to ported box. The ported box makes it much louder. Can't comment much on the amp you have in momd but 1000 watts is more than enough power. It's in my 2011 Mazda 3 with an aftermarket headunit and it sounds great, all that's left is to get rid of the rattles this summer! Just thought I'd share my experience with ya. Hope it helps.
Edit: here's the box I chose for it https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zaVOAbD953G1C
depends on the 15s, some like a lot of air, most of the ones I've seen(including CompS) want a minimum of 3'. My single 15 has a bit over 4 to itself. Also a box like that is the same as buying or building 2 seperate boxes since they use a single port for each side and not a shared port. Like these look ok for singles. I like the separate boxes because you can move them around and if you need just a little trunk space you can remove one and still keep a little bass. in a previous car I had them like this and loved the convenience, and also miss having at least a little trunk compare to this lol. Also my box and sub weigh over 100lbs which is a PITA to get in and out of the trunk by myself.
I tend to go a bit of overkill on amps because it's better for the sub to be overpowered than it is to be underpowered. It's easy to hear when subs are bottoming out, but not so easy to hear when an amp is clipping. I'd probably stick with the MB Quart amp and if you have self control go with the comps, or save another $100 and go with this fosgate box which is 1Ω final and 1200w would make it very happy. Also 1200w is a lot easier on your car's electrical system than 2000(120A vs 200A). Lots of tough decisions, it depends more on what you're looking for. A pair of the MBQuart dual 4Ω Subs with the quart amp would go well together as well, but between the quarts and Fosgate P3s, I'd choose the P3s and they are about the same price. I'm a little biased, but for $140 each you can't go wrong with these. Here's a vid of my old 15" version of the same sub with a little over 500w going to it. My RE 15(same 600w rating) lived about 3 years with about 500w(MRP-M500 with 590w birth sheet) then went for about 4 months on my M110(1300w+ birth sheet) and didn't die until I intentionally tried to destroy it the day my Fi came. In the $200 each range I'd say Sundown SAs, in the $300 range, I love my Fi.
Not sure what you decided to go with but IMO if you get a sub in your trunk then your speakers will sound like they're better. Many people on this subreddit will bash this recommendation but I'll give it anyway.
$150 prebuilt subwoofer box
$55 amplifier
$15 wiring kit
$9 optional converter
The converter is needed if your radio is stock. I also think it makes the install easier regardless as it is one set less wire to run & you won't have to take apart your headunit.
I think this is the best intro level set up for a subwoofer if you're looking to spend about $220.
It will definitely impress you if you haven't heard/had bass in a car before. Also very easy to set up and you can do it in about 3 hours with no experience.
Edit: forgot this amp comes with a built in high/low converter to feed straight off the speakers. Converter may be easier but is optional.
If u want 2 subs which I would recommend, you can get 2 mtx tn 12 inside a premade box for 150, then buy that same Rockford amp and a wire kit and if u have a stock headunit, a loc
amp
subs and box
wire kit
line out converter, if u don't have rca's from headunit
This is the best bang for your buck and its relatives super cheap, the is practically what I have expect I fucked up and didn't get the premade box. If your not looking to win competitions but want cheap loud good bass, get these
I think you should consider getting a USB DAC along with the speakers. Even something simple like this would add a lot to your enjoyment of those speakers:
http://www.amazon.com/NuForce-uDAC-2-Black-Headphone-24bit/dp/B003Y5FRNS
Edit:
These will absolutely crush those Audioengine speakers - i'm using these in my office system and with a good source they make for an EXCELLENT hifi solution. Until you start getting into $2-3k active monitors you can't find much that will keep up with these QUADs.
http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?spkrmoni&1314806562&/QUAD-11L
edit again: Looking again, those aren't the active variant of those speakers, so they won't really work for you unless you get an amp setup. If you can find some 11L-Active speakers and a decent DAC, though, you'd be set.
I second the external USB sound card/device. Depending on how high quality you want to go and what kind of amplification you want, there are lots of options.
Turtle Beach makes one for slightly cheaper that looks decent.
The soundblaster above is probably a pretty good bet.
There are a whole bunch of off-brand USB sticks for around $15 that probably won't cut it.
There are external boxes, like the Creative Labs X-Fi soundblaster box, in the $60-80 range but probably better.
And for real good fidelity, you start getting into the USB DAC range. Highly recommended if you have good ears/headphones. These can range from $100 to over $500 depending on what you want... a few recommendations:
If that's in your price range then you'll enjoy the sound out of any of them, but check reviews and shop around, see what people think. I have the nuForce uDAC and really enjoy listening to it, so I can definitely recommend that based on experience.
Best of luck!
Yes I just upgraded, I will give an update when my audio setup comes in. I'm going with Cerwin Vega VE-5M's, Audiosource Amp 100, Nuforce Headphone amp to go with my M50's and Bose AE2's, and I'll stay classy with a vintage Pioneer SG-505 from 1985. Don't worry, it's being upgraded ;)
As /u/xTHANATOPSISX said, because you have a dual 2 ohm sub, you'll want to wire it to 1 ohm for the least money.
I would highly recommend the Rockford R1200X1D mono amp. Unfortunately, it's a little over your budget, but can be found for around $250.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-200-Watt-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T0YAMG
I think you should consider this amp then: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004T0YAMG/ref=psdc_10980751_t1_B004T166L8
it's $40 more, but worth the capabilities. Also, if you choose this amp, go with a Dual 4 ohm Type R sub.
Reason: One sub is great, you're going to feel some awesome bass in a tahoe, but I also know what it's like to be itching for that next-level of bass.
So, If you decided that you wanted more bass, just buy the exact same sub and box, or upgrade to a dual box, and just attached that to the amp.
The amp can handle as low as 1 ohm of stability. It does 1200w @1 ohm.
But with 1 sub, you will be putting out around 800w @ 2 ohms. 800 Watts is more than enough to push one of those subs.
But if you chose to add a sub down the line, it would bring the impedance to 1 ohm, putting out the full 1200 watts, but it will be split between the 2 subs, so each sub will get about 600 watts. (not in the danger zone for this sub for too-little-power) But with the extra sub, you will be increasing your surface area.
So, even if you changed your mind on going from 1 sub, to 2, you are only limited by purchasing another sub and box.
I think it all depends on what your goal for the vehicle is? Do you plan on tracking it? or just to make it a bit faster around town? Do you want it to look a little modified or stock?
Anyways, I'll link a bunch of stuff I personally prefer and in the order I would install them...
Accessories:
Step 1:
Step 2:
Step 3:
Step 4: (all maybes)
It could be and hopefully is in protect mode. Didn't know that existed. I have two RF Punch P3D4 12"'s running at 4OHMs off of the amp. The wiring kit is 8 gauge.
[Amp](Rockford Fosgate Prime 1,200-Watt Class-D 1-Channel Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004T0YAMG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_kmEHub1A5FR89).
I may have gotten the bass knob that sits in the front of my car wet, and the light for it wasn't blue like it normally was, but instead just off. The subs actually worked for a second while I was going down the road before I realized the subs weren't working. They kicked in and then I realized that they weren't working and quickly turned the radio off, but couldn't disconnect the wire because I was on the way to work. I drove the car again later during work to get food with the radio off again, and after work I disconnected the power cable. I haven't tried the amp again since then, and that was Saturday afternoon.
What should I do to troubleshoot this? I don't want to turn it on again for fear that I ruin the subs.
No, no, and no. Boss, Pyle, Power Akoustik, and Dual are ALL GARBAGE. You'll need 750-1400W rms total to push both of those nicely. I know they say 1000W rms each, but they usually don't take that very well. 500-700W per sub will be plenty. This Rockford monoblock should provide enough power for both of those while still budget friendly. It's a sturdy amp.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00INA8PD8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1464956653&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=powerbass+subwoofer&dpPl=1&dpID=4134ADBa8vL&ref=plSrch
I can attest to the fact that this sub is can take a beating from newbies. It's got plenty of power handling and it's a great value. When i was a bass head i ran two powerbass 12 inch competition subs and they refused to die. You could also go with the 12 inch variant http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00INA8XJY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1464957007&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=powerbass+subwoofer&dpPl=1&dpID=41xxvDO8hWL&ref=plSrch which will be MARGINALLY louder, play a little bit lower (frequencies), but it will take up more room in your trunk.
For the box, i would go ported. It will maximize your volume output and also let you smell if you're burning up your sub. This guy should be fine http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013MWT9O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1464956763&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=10+inch+ported+subwoofer+box&dpPl=1&dpID=51hYLJphMpL&ref=plSrch
The amplifier is the trickiest piece. You want an amp with lots of power, but buying from a reputable brand is super important in this hobby. If you buy a cheap amp it my say "10'000 jigawatts for $50!!!) but really it's only gonna put out 100 watts and then die in a month. The amp is usually the most expensive item in a build. You want your amp to have more power than your sub can take, because if you push an amp too hard it will break your subwoofer. I would really recommend this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003AILWGK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1464957714&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=rockford+fosgate+power+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=41Ap1V91JdL&ref=plSrch but you should be ok with this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T0YAMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1464957802&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rockford+fosgate+power+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=51Ib%2BxysflL&ref=plSrch as long as you don't push it too hard.
Hit me up with any questions
Had her for over two years running 1 ohm with ZERO issues.
Yea I'll get you links to everything. It was under that price for everything I bought. Just give me a few minutes to look it all up.
[Bluetooth receiver] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008AGQMQC/ref=mh_s9_acsd_top_bwq8_c_x_2_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-5&pf_rd_r=6QBRES82RMG68N7ARNJA&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=cb8ba3ed-c555-5ae7-994c-0c95004dcc84&pf_rd_i=226184)
[cd player] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0091V0A9U/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483408419&sr=1-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Car+cd+player&dpPl=1&dpID=41lZUWt96qL&ref=plSrch)
[install kit] (https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Install-Accord-wiring-installation/dp/B000KL113O)
If you end up installing this stuff, I recommend buying one of these It sorta covers up the stock radio. Mpow CD Slot Car Mount, Universal Cell Phone Holder with Three Side Grips for iPhone 7/6s/6 plus, Android Smartphones, etc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC29ETE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-tWAybPGDNZKQ
For a beginner setup, not bad. I started with nearly the same quality, as for the deck. I wish you would stay away.
What I would keep if I were you:
What I would get rid of:
Why would I get rid of that? Well, for starters. That Boss HU will freeze up, constantly. You have to cut power every single time it freezes up. Buddy of mine had a Boss HU and it froze constantly. As for the subs, I would knock those out simply because that amp will most likely cook them, it's not a bad amp, but those subs will not tolerate any clipping from that amp, they'll blow.
As for the HU: [This] (https://www.amazon.com/JVC-KD-R450-Headunit-Receiver-Control/dp/B00IEK4I6A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474654851&sr=8-3&keywords=JVC+head+unit) or [this.] (https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DEH-150MP-Single-Stereo-Playback/dp/B0091V0A9U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474654888&sr=8-1&keywords=pioneer+head+unit)
As for the subs: [These will handle your power] (https://www.amazon.com/Cerwin-Vega-HS124D-Shallow-Subwoofer-4ohm/dp/B00ZDVJTS0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474654929&sr=8-1&keywords=cerwin+vega+subwoofer+12%22)
You won't be happy with the Boss HU or the Boss subs.
There are better options out there, but I see you're on a budget. I have ran the newer Cerwin-Vega woofers and they won't disappoint. I seen you have shallow mount enclosures, and had to jump on those. Good price, and they work DAMN well, very efficient woofers with decent SQ.
As for the price, just a little more than what you were willing to spend for a hell of a lot better quality.
Just one more thing. You most likely won't need dynomat for a system like this, but it helps. If you already have bad road noise, then get some. If it were me, I would just spend the extra money on the deck and subs I listed. As for the enclosure, I don't know the specs, but those subs I listed work nicely in most of whatever you're going to throw them in.
edit: grammar + some more sentences.
ok, so looking into it they aren't necessarily audiophile features, but they are still completley unnecessary for someone who just wants something to give them a few modern conveniences (like an AUX jack and bluetooth for example) and not much else (for example, GPS navigation, or a touch screen, both not necessary whatsoever for a good quality head unit)
in fact, looking at amazon now, even around $80 seems to be a bit on the high side for a decent head unit, as i'm seeing pretty good quality ones for around $50-$60 on amazon
like this pioneer for example: https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DEH-150MP-Single-Stereo-Playback/dp/B0091V0A9U/ref=sr_1_4?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1518202740&sr=8-4&keywords=head+unit&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
or if you don't care about CD playback, this boss unit is on sale from it's usual price of $66 to now about $30
https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-616UAB-Bluetooth-Wireless/dp/B01CG8N0H8/ref=sr_1_3?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1518202740&sr=8-3&keywords=head+unit&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
and it has a few more options (not including CD) over the pioneer, as not only does it have aux, but it also has USB, SD Card, and bluetooth if you happen to have a phone without a headphone jack
FM modulator will let them use the stock radio and get an aux in. They'll use it the same as a transmitter (turn to the station it's set to, flip a switch if it's needed, play away).
Generally gonna run around $100-160 (depending on brand), with installation included, at best buy.
I'd say a simple radio would be something like the Pioneer DEH-150MP or Kenwood KDC-155. Those'll give them an aux in and CD player while keeping it pretty simple since there's no bells and whistles. The pioneer is $60, at best buy, not including parts and labor.
Metra FM Modulator Wire Version (you'll need an RCA to 3.5 cable)
http://amzn.com/B0049MV1VM
Or
NEW ISIMPLE IS77 IPOD FM MODULATOR KIT (12 VOLT-CAR STEREO ACCESS)
http://amzn.com/B004UCSGE6
Pioneer DEH-150MP Single DIN Car Stereo With MP3 Playback
http://amzn.com/B0091V0A9U
Kenwood KDC155U Car Cd Player
http://amzn.com/B00AM5JTB4
$50 on Amazon.
EDIT: This is the one I have. You can also get it in a "capacitor" version that works better in hot climates. I've never had an issue here, but if you park in the sun a lot you might want the capacitor version.
Get this one (G1WH) instead if you can. It's a bit more discreet and it comes with a 1 year warranty. I have that exact one and it's been great.
In terms of MicroSD, Transcend is the way to go,
and they aren't even expensive. You can get cheap ones, but you can also get really decent ones for $60.
$50 for probably the most popular dashcam our there right now.
[G1W?] (http://www.amazon.com/G1W-Recorder-Dashboard-Dashcam-Authentic/dp/B00JJ3L84G)
Seems good enough. I have an old car, and mostly just want it for "fun". I want something small I can take out of my car while I'm not in it so it doesn't get stolen.
Hope you find some info. You should get one of these. I got one recently and it works very well. Even in high temps.
G1W
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ3L84G
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Full-HD-1080P-G1W-2-7-Car-Dash-DVR-Camera-Video-CAM-Recorder-H-264-Night-Vision-/310752336819?pt=US_Rear_View_Monitors_Cams_Kits&hash=item485a485bb3
1080p
Auto starts recording when car is on
Auto overwrites the oldest videos
Turns off when car turns off.
Sorry for the extremely late response, but this is what I use: http://amzn.com/B00JJ3L84G
Not sure about LOC advice, seems like a splitter could work.
What size sub is "small" for you and is shape/depth an issue?
If you're looking into a powered sub I'd suggest building something like this for ~ $100 & getting a small amp for maybe another $100 + connection gear. This is just an example, but there are plenty of prefab boxes in the $25-50 range and plenty of subs in the $30-80 range which will stomp all over a plastic mini powered sub and don't need a big sub amp.
If you need a really small sub I'd recommend a Pioneer 10" or 12" prefab like these with a small (~300 - 500w) sub amp.
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-A118-Stealth-Dashboard/dp/B00NG84AT0/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1466137423&sr=8-11&keywords=black+box+dash+cam
Video of a bucket hitting my car
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sMoVEAAJslI
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-A118-Stealth-Dash/dp/B00NG84AT0
Front and back. I'm also going to get them wired with a toggle so I can leave them on in specific circumstances soon. (repairs, parking decks, mall parking lots)
It an A118C black box. It's $76 on Amazon. Good investment so far.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NG84AT0?psc=1
I have this and has held up well to the heat
Black Box B40-C Capacitor + GPS Stealth Dash Cam - Covert Versatile Mini A118 Video Camera - 170° Super Wide Angle 6G Lens - 160°F Heat Resistant - Full HD 1080P Car DVR with G-Sensor WDR Night Vision Motion
Detection - NT96650 + AR0330
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TXR2P40/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_54hoxbHN6NYG4
After researching I think I've settled on this one
I'd like to put them in all my cars, but the one I have, Black Box B40-C, occasionally doesn't power on when I start the car if it is a couple days between starting. I love the camera and I'm fine with just pushing the power button. But I know no one else would notice in the other cars... I need a camera that reliably will record without any interaction for months.
Is this normal for them to occasionally need to be manually powered on?
Got this one with GPS last April and it's awesome for what I need it to do.
Night video leaves a lot of be desired, but it gets the basic job done fine.
Haven't used it myself but I bought this for a family member recently.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TXR2P40/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481304175&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=dash+cam+black+box&dpPl=1&dpID=41m3ffJV8RL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00P8F3LD0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481304175&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=dash+cam+black+box&dpPl=1&dpID=41jiRifcioL&ref=plSrch
Two very solid dashcams. /r/dashcam can be of help too! :)
I would not get one that cheap with some of the reviews indicating it stopped working so quickly. Below is a link to what I've been using for almost a year (purchased last June), in Texas where it is about as hot as Florida. It has worked great for me so far and it keeps the date & settings saved even if I don't use my car for a few days (losing the date and settings was a problem with other capacitor based cameras I'd used). It is less expensive than the Guardian brand models, night footage might not be as good as those but it is adequate for me. I feel this one was a good deal. But there are plenty of good cameras out there.
http://www.amazon.com/AUTO-VOX-Dashboard-Capacitor-Internal-Recording/dp/B00UUQD9L6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
EDIT: So, while that above link is what I am using in one of my cars and I've been happy with it so far, there are also other options such as this one just under 100 bucks that seem to have overall better reviews and more reviews. So, this might be even better, but I have no experience with it: http://www.amazon.com/Rexing-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_sims?ie=UTF8
AUTO-VOX A118C Dash Cam. Nothing fancy. It was affordable and gets the job done.
Yeah, it's this one here. It's a few years old so there's probably better alternatives out now but it does the job
thx for the reply, from what i've been reading thats what a lot of people sugges for this price range is there any difference between this and this
I got tired of the suction cup failing, so I got this one and got it tucked behind my rear view better
It fit my G1W-C before I replaced it, and yours looks like it was based on that model
AmorTek SnakeMount - Dash Cam Mirror Mount - 5 Different Joints Kit Suitable for Most Car Cameras
AmorTek SnakeMount - Dash Cam Mirror Mount - 5 Different Joints Kit Suitable for Most Car Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0102CK1BS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vV0DxbBQ0DEJ1
I bought this and it works fantastic. It also helped make the footage more clear than before, I noticed the suction cup mount that came with my G1W-C was doing exactly what you described. (I live nearby, and this 112 degrees weather is just brutal!)
I use this Dash Cam Mirror Mount - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0102CK1BS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZJ1zCb8FK7H89
I bought this. You don't have to worry about that coming off, and you don't have to buy a new one to swap it to a new vehicle. It has a bracket that fits the Yi dashcam. I have this exact setup and have 0 complaints.
Yi is the manufacturer:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C89GCHU
With this mounting bracket:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0102CK1BS
Dude...spend $15 and get this mount from Amazon. Watching video at 45 degree angle isn't fun and causes most people to miss what you are trying to show them.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0102CK1BS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just upgraded my 15 STi (w/ Harmon speakers) with the Pioneer 4200NEX. Its on sale for $200 off. I was able to retain my steering wheel controls with another component. Probably your best bet for seeing Android Auto in a WRX until 2020. I've not aware of any OEM updating existing systems to add Android Auto / Apply Carplay after release.
https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-AVH-4200NEX-Multimedia-Receiver-Touchscreen/dp/B01D6HPMZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483974741&sr=8-1&keywords=4200nex
Buy a new a headunit. I did that for my 2008 civic. They range from 200 over 1k USD. I bought this one.
https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-AVH4200NEX-Receiver-Motorized-Bluetooth/dp/B01D6HPMZQ
this is what i got and I love it. Works great with the iphone and I hear it workswell with android too.
I'm rolling on a 2017 STI base and from all the research I did when I was looking into making my sound system not sound like garbage in my car, seems the general consensus has been that these cars all have terrible head units, the stock speakers actually aren't bad (the head unit is just that bad that it makes them sound bad), and that the subaru kicker speakers are far too much money for what they deliver.
Oem audio plus even keeps the stock speakers in their solution. They do replace the tweeters though and obviously add a sub.
A simple under seat subwoofer seems a far better value to get bass into the system. You can even get a kicker for $200.
I'd ultimately suggest replacing the head unit along with getting a simple under seat subwoofer for an more even and overall solution.
I went with the Pioneer 4200NEX and a Cerwin-Vega under seat subwoofer.
Sounds pretty damn good and I now have android auto (and apple carplay if you're into that).
This is a cheaper model than what I have. I have the 8200 nex and the one I linked is the 4200.
This is what it looks like. There is a gap, but it's not too bad honestly. It's almost impossible to find one that fits fully. I don't think any reputable brands make it in the size we need in the USA. Anything is better than the shit stock one. I hated that fucking thing lol.
HU: https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-AVH4200NEX-Receiver-Motorized-Bluetooth/dp/B01D6HPMZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520966717&sr=8-1&keywords=pioneer+4200&dpID=51eUfp1qb2L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Bypass: https://www.amazon.com/MicroBypass-Automatic-Interface-AVH-4100NEX-AVH-4200NEX/dp/B00VKQ6ECQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520966717&sr=8-2&keywords=pioneer+4200&dpID=51x1VlAngzL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
pioneer makes the best ones IMO
they all now have car play and what not -
https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-AVH-4200NEX-Multimedia-Receiver-Touchscreen/dp/B01D6HPMZQ/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1480721485&sr=8-8&keywords=pioneer+AVH
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D6HPMZQ
Should be more like $90.
I have this one - https://www.amazon.com/Pruveeo-F5-WiFi-Discreet-Design/dp/B01KZWMGFY
My ex got it for me insisting it was really high quality for the price ... clearly that was not the case. Despite the fact that it was on and pointing at the accident, it somehow magically decided to not start recording until after the firefighters and police arrived.
Heh its funny you commented on the clarity, because I didn't configure the thing at all when I got this clip, it's only in 720p mode but it's capable of 1080p if you take the time to do a firmware upgrade.
I went cheapish but high reviews and landed on this guy:
https://www.amazon.com/Pruveeo-F5-WiFi-Discreet-Recorder/dp/B01KZWMGFY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525984170&sr=8-3&keywords=pruveeo+dash+cam
Only real complaint so far is the power cable they send with it is mini usb straight into the power adapter. This meant it took up my outlet entirely with no options for powering other thing. I already had a dual usb power thing in my lighter outlet so I just opted to get the cabling from microcenter to be able to use the existing power setup I had and still keep one port open for my phone to charge, etc. Love the size, I tucked it behind my rear view mirror so I don't have to see the screen as I find it kinda annoying.
I'd say some kind of Mp3 player with Bluetooth if you don't want a smartphone. You could get a cheap android phone just for podcasts or a dedicated Mp3 player like this one. If you want to download things over wifi you'd be better to go with a cheap android. Then get some small Bluetooth headphones, something like this you can wear at work.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M2ZOLLP/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1505953510&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=bluetooth+earbuds&dpPl=1&dpID=31IHC%2B5oi-L&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LYMUB0S/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1505953638&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bluetooth%2Bearbuds&th=1&psc=1
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06ZYYDTVG/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1505953638&sr=8-16&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bluetooth+earbuds
These 3 seem to be the same with different name branding^
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WD8WHTN/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1505953879&sr=8-16&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bluetooth+earbuds&dpPl=1&dpID=41ysHYYmuTL&ref=plSrch
there are ones that do Android Auto, e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XAV-AX100-Android-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B01MF9W0GU/
There are three types of "Android" headunits:
You can't customize how it looks or behave, and you can only use the apps that are allowed to run by Google.
Sony XAV-AX100 6.4" Car Play/Android Auto Media Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ti5gzbYGHPH7W
Like I said love the looks but white backlight buttons kill it for me so either tint them orange
Plus for 400 you should be able to get 7" with nav and carplay etc in a pioneer Nex or kenwood
Sony XAV-AX100 6.4" Car Play/Android Auto Media Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QSVszb3541RSY
Oh goodie, so that's basically the easiest possible combination. (I was asking about steering wheel controls and subwoofers because you'd need even more adapters for those. And auto climate control makes the din kit a pain in the ass, you gotta import it from Japan. But yours looks like a base model without any of that.)
So you're going to need:
Crutchfield also has some good resources. The only thing is that the aux port under the palm rest won't work anymore, unless you can find a way to adapt it to the new stereo. Many new stereos don't even support aux anymore. Also the Sony I mentioned (probably amongst others) has a USB port hanging off the back, so you'll need to get a USB extension and run it to somewhere in the car. Like drill a hole somewhere in the center console and run the cable up.
And here's a guide for actually removing the stereo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GIyQGdXUxS4
Get this instead.
I want one so bad. My friend has one that saved her when someone backed into her at a light and they tried to say she rear ended them. The one she has is here: Dash Cam, Crosstour 1080P Car DVR Dashboard Camera Full HD with 3" LCD Screen 170°Wide Angle, WDR, G-Sensor, Loop Recording and Motion Detection (CR300) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078B56BYJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yOaACbX55C092
Rexing V1LG Dual Channel Car Dash Cam FHD 1080p 170° Wide Angle Dashboard Camera Recorder with HD Rear Camera, Built-in GPS Logger, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LPV7G6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wx30DbMAG8KXZ
I am happy with my Rexing V1LG. The camera is stuck to the plastic frame behind the rearview mirror and I placed the rear camera under the wiper.
It is a little bulky by today's standards, but it's discreet from the outside and doesn't impede vision. I have the hardwire kit, ran the line down to the A-pillar and used a fuse tap in the footwell fuse box. The front-to-rear wire runs behind the headliner and passenger side pillars.
I had some bad luck with the SD card. It ate through two of them pretty quickly, but the third card has stuck around for well over a year without issue.
Ah gotcha. I think I've settled with the A119S v2, hopefully firmware lets it get the full potential of the sensor change. So to hardware that, all I would need then is this? I'd be buying from Amazon since its cheaper than on BlackBoxMyCar as well
product link
Interesting, I'm using the hardwire kit directly into my fusebox with the V1LG. Might just be a Rexing thing after all. And thanks! My first submission after having this for a few months.
Are you shitting me? For $200 it better have gps. There are plenty of dash cams out there with mini cams meant for reversing that you could use for inside the car, if you are looking for a dual lens cam. This Dashcam by Roav/Anker is a great product. Comes with the right 32gb micro sd card you need for recording and it has WiFi to connect to your phone to display what it sees, as well as other info, in the app. It also has GPS built in, great feature for tracking your trips. Shock sensor, etc. I really like that you mount it and take it off the mount when you want, unlike others where you end up ruining the suction cup. One of my favorite features is how Anker really does look out for you by providing not only the MicroSD card but a 2-Port charger and a cable. This is by the same company but it’s a cheaper, A1. This one doesn’t come with the micro SD but if found a nice one for $7-10. It also has WiFi so it syncs with an app on your phone but no gps. They also give you a charger but only a 1 port. IMO you can spend a ton on some random dash cam or buy quality and from a company with great customer service aka Anker. If it’s dual lens you’re looking for, I’m currently shopping around as well finding draw backs with each one. If only Roav made one...
Blackvue cams are very nice. I run a Rexing V1LG and have no complaints.
I bought the Rexing V1LG. I'm very happy with it, and it was a great value for a front & rear cam. This particular camera was recommended to me by someone who's had their Rexing for 2 years. Supposedly their customer service is also very good if you have questions or issues.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LPV7G6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apap_BEamgQT9gZaxe
Looks like Mazda's power socket is a crappy design. Pair that with the slightly crappy design of the A119's 12V plug and you have your issue.
Some choices of solution:
I run them through the headliner and use a kit similar to this one: https://www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-Hardwire-Fuse-A119S/dp/B01N0GR4ON/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1492709800&sr=8-2&keywords=dash+cam+install
My wife's jeep doesn't have a fuse box in the passenger cabin, so I tapped into the rear view mirror's power wires.
Hey, sorry for the late reply to your post. For parking mode, I was just wondering if it's safe to hardwire the a119 into a fuse that is always on? I've heard that it was unsafe to do so because it can drain out your battery overnight, resulting in the car not starting. Is that true? I currently have this one. I currently have mine hardwired into my cigarrete lighter, so I can't use parking mode.
Alright, thanks again.
Can you see what the difference in this $120 A119S and this $100 A119S is? They seem nearly identical to me. They both have GPS, and they're even sold by the same company. The only difference I can see is that the cheaper one has "compact" in the title and looks curved near the camera.
A few more (hopefully final) questions: should I go for the CPL? Is this a good hardwire kit?
https://www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-Hardwire-Fuse-A119S/dp/B01N0GR4ON?th=1&psc=1
This one is similar to the one I have .
Have you looked at a "fuse tap"? I've seen them recommended a couple times in this sub.
EDIT: Found this one on amazon.
Any camera is better than no camera.
I bought one of these:
https://smile.amazon.com/Crosstour-Dashboard-Recording-Detection-CR300/dp/B078B56BYJ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Crosstour+1080P&qid=1564079635&s=electronics&sr=1-3
​
Under $40, the cord can be routed up around the trim, and the images are pretty nice.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078B56BYJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Whj8CbH6Q136R
This one. For the price, it's pretty good. Very basic features on it though.
No worries! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DF8MQX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_t8R5Cb7Z6PXQT
That’s the closest model to mine I could find on their site. Mine is like that but also has 4K quality. I know they’ve released a new gen since I’ve gotten mine, so I’d recommend comparing between those two.
That was my philosophy too, the only ticket i got was that aforementioned one I got out of, thankfully my father just randomly bought me mine for christmas one year.
Here's the one i've used for the past few years. It's cheap for sure (and worked well enough to save my butt).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078B56BYJ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_taa_pt2yCbM560YTR
Dash Cam, Crosstour 1080P Car DVR Dashboard Camera Full HD with 3" LCD Screen 170°Wide Angle, WDR, G-Sensor, Loop Recording and Motion Detection (CR300)
Here's the one I bought. It's not a dual cam, obviously, but those tend to run a bit more expensive. You should be able to get some good recommendations from a quick Google search; there are lots of reviews and comparisons out there.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DF8MQX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_a1G9BbSH3J2V3
Crosstour 1080P Car Cam Full HD with 3" LCD Screen - best $40 you’ll ever spend. Had this one about a year, (my third). https://www.amazon.com/Crosstour-Dashboard-Recording-Detection-CR300/dp/B078B56BYJ
7 IMPORTANT FUNCTIONS AND EASY TO USE - Loop recording, motion detection, on/off audio, license plate stamp, time stamp, auto power off, screen saver, burst photo. All of these functions basically cover what you need for daily driving. Comes with 1 suction cup, easy to use.
BUILT-IN G-SENSOR CAR DASH CAMERA - Automatically detect a sudden shake/collision and lock the footage to prevent the video from being overwritten even in loop recording. Accident scene can be truly restored.
170° WIDE-ANGLE 6G LENS CAR CAMERA - Larger viewing angle to be recorded, captures 4 lanes of traffic.
Read the reviews, but I’m happy with it.
The Roav S1. I bought them for $90 each on September 17th so I'm not sure why the price went up by $20. I've also had the Goluk T2 dashcam which I also really liked but the app for it is trash, quality is pretty good even at night. I'd take the Roav over the T2 though but the T2 does mount a lot more discretely.
https://smile.amazon.com/Roav-DashCam-Resolution-NightHawk-Wide-Angle/dp/B07DF8MQX1/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1539531473&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=roav+s1&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/Goluk-T2-G-sensor-Detection-Recording/dp/B01KX35KB2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539531809&sr=8-2&keywords=goluk+t2
I have an Anker ROAV, it works well.
https://www.amazon.com/Dashcam-Dashboard-Resolution-Nighthawk-Wide-Angle/dp/B07DF8MQX1/
I have this camera on my car and my parents' cars. Been working fine for a year now.
Agree with others, removable is best even though there's a chance you'll forget to put it back on. I recently got a Viofo A119 off Amazon with an add-a-fuse and hardwire kit to make installation clean and simple. Here's a short 1080p30 sample video doing some semi-successful crawling in our TJ (download for full quality). It has a permanent base that the camera plugs into. The lens adjusts nicely for the flat windshield. The reflections can get a little bad in some light, but not sure any other dashcam would be better in that regard. I like it and it's cheap in comparison to other options.
This is the reason why I purchased this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01N0GR4ON/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I was told it that if I connect my dashcam using this to a permanent live fuse (on even when engine is off), it would cut power to my dashcam if my car battery is getting to low.
Is this correct? Or have I missed something?
Going to hardwire it on the weekend, so fed up of plugging it in and out of the cig lighter already.
When it gets maybe 25/30 at night it won't come on in the morning, or even after the defrost has been blowing on it for 30 minutes.
I use this, which I suppose I should consider to be the likely culprit.
I used this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01N0GR4ON/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just make sure to have an extra 5A mini fuse because you need it to complete the circuit and it is not included for some reason. Then you just add it to an existing fuse that is active only when the vehicle is on and you're good to go.
I'm not certain since he deleted the comment for some reason but I think it might have been this one: Dash Cam, Crosstour 1080P Car DVR Dashboard Camera Full HD with 3" LCD Screen 170°Wide Angle, WDR, G-Sensor, Loop Recording and Motion Detection (CR300) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078B56BYJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LtlkDbJC7VAPE . If not then I just don't know, sorry!
I used this kit with a different add a fuse since mine are smaller. It goes into the fuse slot that runs the AC.
No worries, i'll give you a little notice and maybe we can meet if you are not at your shop on that day, as for a solid date/time, I don't know yet, I was there last Friday, so it should be inside of the next two weeks.
I have an A119S with the GPS mount, the hardwire kit is the Spytec kit like this.
And as I continue to browse, I see this deal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LPV7G6 which includes a rear camera. Not a capacitor though. Didn't look like much of a deal at first then I saw it was 55 off in cart.
​
So... many... choices...
I have been using the Rexing V1 for a couple of years now. I like it pretty well. I am currently considering upgrading to the V1LG which has front and rear camera. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LPV7G6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tPFLAb9B7JB48
Here is one that may be perfect for you. I have two Rexings and originally got them because they look much more discrete than a full on camera hanging off your window. These blend in with you mirror--they are smaller than the pictures make it look. Front and Back and G-sensor parking mode. Also this is a great deal for this camera!
If you wanna save some money, you could also get the previous generation.
Also, if you're planning on hardwiring it into your car, make sure to get the hardwire kit.
A Rexing. It’s alright.
A story as old as time, very shitty though.
Ideas for next time:
I have the Rexing V1LG Dual Channel and it works great!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LPV7G6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iZSPCbT0YANVX
I use [This] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LPV7G6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) version of Rexing and it hasn't failed me yet.
this should work because it is 60 frames per second, right?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DF8MQX1/
The cheap cam was not worth the $30 i paid for it. I got a refund and upgraded to the Roav S1 for $89. Amazing cam! Does everything a dash cam should do, and more. Been solid for the past ~2 weeks that i have had it. I mounted it in the same spot since it's a wedge cam. Going to install one in the wife's car too.
https://www.amazon.com/Dashcam-Dashboard-Resolution-Nighthawk-Wide-Angle/dp/B07DF8MQX1/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=roav+s1&link_code=qs&qid=1554945355&s=gateway&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=8-1-fkmrnull
​
r/Dashcam has a popular competitor, the Viofo A119 V2. Seems like a solid cam and i almost went for it, but i didn't want the cost to go over $100 and the roav included a 32gb card. https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-Compact-A119-Optional-included/dp/B01M28B92C
​
BTW, all these cams come with either suction cups or double sided sticky tape. I prefer black velcro so it's a bit hidden with the black and i can easily remove the cam when needed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJPPNHM/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I personally like my Roav Dash cam. Roav S1
Highly recommend this one. I use it in my pickup and the suction cup one in my truck. Both are great but this one makes me very happy. Speed. Gps. 1080p at 60fps. It even has pitch and yaw. Very good. And sound is great. Though i turn off sound in truck because if im listening to a podcast a lawyer will say i was distracted when the drunk ran a red light and hit my trailer. It can also take a 128gb sd card so you can get almost 3 days with 720p at 30 fps. Roav DashCam S1, by Anker, Dash Cam, Dashboard Camera, Full HD 1080p Resolution @60 fps, Nighthawk Vision, Sony Starvis Sensor, Built-in GPS, Wi-Fi, Wide-Angle Lens, 2-Port Charger, 32GB microSD Card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DF8MQX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ISsUCb4GMYH7W
To be honest, that is a horrific setup, avoid at all costs. That amp can and will never do "800w", try 200w max. Also, never pay attention to max ratings, those can be whatever the manufacturer wants, look for an RMS rating. If you think the terminators are bad, those are about 10x worse.
Go with O_HAI_2_U's suggestion, it will be infinitely better with one smaller quality setup, rather than two underperforming 12's. Here's a prefab box that would fit the type-r:
http://www.amazon.com/Atrend-12-Inch-Single-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_c
It's a prefab. This one. https://www.amazon.com/E12SV-12-Inch-Single-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1486184286&sr=1-1&keywords=Atrend+bbox+12. Would you suggest I find someone local to build me a custom box rather than a new amp? I primarily listen to rap. Thank you.
The second option is closest to recommended specs
I have $300 on Amazon so I could add a couple hundred if needed but now I'm only thinking about 1 sub. I'd say $300-$400 for all of the equipment and then installation is separate.
I'm thinking of Rockford P3 600W for the sub, 12 in. Ported Enclosure as the box, and Zapco Mono Class d for the amp.
Would this work alright or should I get a different amp for only 1 sub? Also, should I get the 2 ohm sub or the 4 ohm sub? Let me know what you think.
Would this be a good enclosure
I can't seem to find the 1.5 cubic feet box. Would this one work?
Also, which would be better: Alpine SWS-12D2 or Alpine SWS-12D4
And what size of amp should I get?
Alright, I will buy Rockford Fosgate Punch P2. As far as the box goes how does this look? I am not sure how to find the right type for that sub.
http://www.amazon.com/Bbox-E12SV-12-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=pd_sim_e_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=1GZ3QQN113ZA4BAF94XM
So basically my setup will be that box,
Amp: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p3001
Sub : http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P2D4-12-12-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B004UFHXIS
Speakers: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1131665S/Kenwood-KFC-1665S.html?tp=105
Stereo: http://www.amazon.com/Sony-DSXA40UI-Digital-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B00FB45SRU
Any advice to make it better, or if something is wrong is really appreciated. Thanks again for the help!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013N0UEE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this is the box I have. I know it's not best to use prefabs but I don't have the means to build a box currently and anything bigger will not work in my situation in my car right now
anything else I could do to improve?
Oh duh, it was coming up for me since i was logged in, here ill give you my account info.
Login:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Password:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013N0UEE/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Kidding thats the sub and box respectively. Sorry dude!
I got a prefab temporarily for my SA-12 that's tuned to 33Hz, and sounds pretty good to me. Atrend Box Link
Youll have $15 left to hit up a Taco Bell
http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/subwoofers/item/ev3-series
is this what you mean by e series?
Also, can you recommend me speakers for my car? I only see wiring/head unit/amp/Subs
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=psdc_1294866011_t2_B00J8SV72A?th=1
4.5 rating with 1000 reviews, #1 best seller, 2 12inch w/box, good or no???
https://www.amazon.com/Hifonics-ZRX1216-1D-Subwoofer-Amplifier-1200-Watt/dp/B00T3VMUD2/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1485393252&sr=1-1&keywords=hifonics+amp
Looks good ?
Did you get this?
If so, you only need 400w rms, so you can get the pioneer gm-d8601. No line out adapter required, as it accept high level input. 500w at 2 ohm, enough, and a bit of headroom.
Just trust me on this one you will absolutely love it SUBWOOFER
My Item much thanks
Great place to start. If you wanna go a little cheaper, this was my first setup
This vs. This
I would rather custom build, but if I can save $$ from a kit I'll go with that.
The alphasonik kit is pretty impressive - two 12's in a box with an 800 watt amp (1600 max) for $177. I had some alphasonik subs back in the day and they hit surprisingly hard. Any opinions?
[Subs] (http://www.amazon.com/MTX-Terminator-TNE212D-200-Watt-Enclosure/dp/B001JECAM2)
[Amp] (http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-MRV-M500-Mono-subwoofer-amplifier/dp/B00BMR7UPS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1383005622&sr=1-1&keywords=alpine+mrv-m500)
Wire
If you have Prime all this will be under $300. If you don't I have no idea what it will be as I don't see the normal Amazon price. But this will provide very nice strong low end. Good starting base.
Thank you! Appreciate the suggestions greatly. I was able to find 2 12"s for $150 and from what I've heard these are pretty dang good. Would they work with that amp you've suggested?
MTX Audio Terminator Series TNE212D 1,200-Watt Dual 12-Inch Sub Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zd5RCb37NTMWF
By the looks of your post, you're focusing on adding a subwoofer to your car, and the most important piece of advice I can give is:
BUY ONLINE!
I have 2 JL W3v3's powered by a JL 500/1 series amp. I made my own box after finding the suggested dimensions online. Total cost was right around $550 about 3 years ago. You can get a really good setup for much less than that online Installation is fairly simple and there are plenty of How-To guides on the internet if you're unsure.
http://www.amazon.com/MTX-Terminator-Series-TNE212D-Enclosure/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=pd_cp_e_2
I just helped a good friend of mine set that up and it sounds pretty damn good for the price.
One question, are you looking for sound production, or sound quality?
Thanks for the input. I got the sub for $45, nowhere near the pricetag from the site but as I said it was used and the other one from the set blew in my friend's system.
That's great to know about the box too, I'll definitely be making some type of upgrade in the near future.
I'd prefer Amazon as I have a good amount left from a gift card. Do you think one of these options would be a good upgrade?
http://www.amazon.com/MTX-Terminator-TNE212D-200-Watt-Enclosure/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=reg_hu-rd_add_1_dp
Description: Dual 12-inch, Terminator-loaded sealed enclosure
Impedance: 2 ohms
Frequency response (+/- 3 dB): 41 to 150 Hz
RMS power (watts): 400
or
http://www.amazon.com/Dual-BP1204-1100-Watt-Illumination-Subwoofer/dp/B000UTMDOC/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top (I'm iffy on the "Dual" brand, Amazon has mostly good reviews but I've found some very negative reviews elsewhere. I think the Amazon crowd was just "wowed" by the lights)
and finally, this one looks like my best option considering the amp's power but again I'm not sure of the Rockford brand
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R1L-2X12-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B001P86T74/ref=sr_1_12?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1367392434&sr=1-12&keywords=ported+box+12
Woofer Impedance: (2) 4-Ohm SVC
Internally wired in parallel to create a 2-Ohm amplifier load
Power Handling: 300 Watts RMS
600 Watts Max
---------
The other options are keeping the sub I have and buying a single 12" ported box (maybe something like this), or finally a double 12" ported box and two appropriate 12" subs for the amp. Sorry to just slap a bunch of links and questions in here, I'm really confused after looking around at the options.
Well here's the thing. I'm not an audiophile I just want the bass to rattle and be loud.
I found this MTX mentioned around the sub and was curious. I don't care about distinctive bass notes.
Is there any decent amps + wiring for $100?
I would probably say $200 max for the sub(s), amp, and box.
I listen to mostly EDM, and some rap, so would like a decent bit of bass boost, as its going into an 05 grand am that only has 4x6 and 6x9 speakers stock.
What about these ones, they're on prime sale for $120, which would leave me $80 for an amp.
Awesome- thanks for the write-up. Here's the list I had assembled that everyone shit on in /r/carAV:
amp
front speakers
subs
rear speakers
wiring:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEQWK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_4&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKP7TY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_image_5&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BF0DE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Didn't pick out a head unit yet. Are these choices as bad as carAV said?
http://m.bestbuy.com/m/e/product/detail.jsp?skuId=7551285&pid=1218851199236 that's the amp
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001JECAM2 those are the subs
here
if you need a DAC you can upgrade to this
Two great dac/amps:
The uDac by NuForce for $130
http://www.amazon.com/NuForce-uDAC-2-Black-Headphone-24bit/dp/B003Y5FRNS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1323796239&sr=8-1
And for an extremely tight budget, The HiFiMan HM101
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0066AHES4/ref=oh_o02_s00_i00_details
Thanks, that does look like a good option. How would this NuForce compare? It seems to have the save 24bit/96kHz spec and I like the fact that it has a headphone jack.
In the near future of buying some pc stuff and other peripherals, i came across a thought of "which DAC for my dream speakers should i use?" So I plan on getting these sweet puppies:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004H0MQYW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=17VDCKL4LO5IJ&coliid=I5C4DPHEWA9D4
But obviously to get the best sound, I'll need a DAC or an amplifier.
Here's some I have in mind:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006IPH5H2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=17VDCKL4LO5IJ&coliid=I1S7F043SU6CQK
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y5FRNS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=17VDCKL4LO5IJ&coliid=I1FYZ24Y1G14AO
Help me choose? i want to get a good DAC but I really want to get the cheaper option. HEALP
EDIT: Here's the original thread for better formatting.
http://www.amazon.com/NuForce-uDAC2-Digital-Audio-Converter/dp/B003Y5FRNS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341804959
This is good for $119. But if you're willing to spend a little more, go for the Audioengine D1. It's a sexy beast. Neither of these are gonna be going very far though. You could transport them with you when you're traveling but not when you're on a plane.
http://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-D1-Premium-24-Bit-DAC/dp/B006IPH5H2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341804881
I'm dying for that D1 and a pair of Audioengine A2s. It's between the A2s and the M10s. I can't decide.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLFM596/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LmE6xbKXHW2GV
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004T0YAMG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IvE6xbV8VMN6B
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T3VMT42/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VwE6xb45EYG7S
Thanks for the advice. Would it be better to get a better amp?
My friend suggested the https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-200-Watt-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T0YAMG/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1522975277&sr=8-1&keywords=rockford+fosgate+prime
or
https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-MRV-M1200-Monoblock-Watts-Amplifier/dp/B01K8F1168/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522975317&sr=1-1&keywords=alpine+mrv-1200
I'm not sure if the m500 is sufficient
So here are the ones I've found in order from more likely to buy to less likely to buy, looking for opinions on them, if I should go with one over the other, etc. (Yes I will be open to rewiring to 1 ohm)
r/https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GMD8601/Pioneer-GM-D8601.html?tp=35834
r/https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R7501D/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R750-1D.html?tp=35834
r/https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GMD9601/Pioneer-GM-D9601.html?tp=35834
r/https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-200-Watt-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T0YAMG/ref=sr_1_6?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1536015841&sr=1-6&keywords=car+amplifier&refinements=p_36%3A-30000%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_six_browse-bin%3A7933260011
r/https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109GTR1001/JBL-GTR-1001.html?tp=35834
r/https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LMCZMY/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
I recommend the Rockford Fosgate R1200-1D. Underrated 1200 watts (closer to 1400 watts) for $260.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-200-Watt-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T0YAMG
RF 1200.1
Wolfram W-1500.1
Kicker 1200
Soundqubed 1250
Of these my choice would be the Wolfram.
Subs- Sundown SA-12 $398
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981560&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
Amp- Rockford Fosgate R1200-1D $233
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T0YAMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981758&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
Amp wiring- Knukonceptz 4awg $26
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050I6KII/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981794&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40
Head unit- Look for a Alpine UTE-42bt or 52bt on eBay. I picked my 42BT up for $80.
And I would recommend building a box to the specs of the Subs. Go to here and it'll tell you http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/products/subwoofers/item/sa-series.html
I know it's a little over budget, but it's the best of the best. If you would like I can adjust it. Your total should be around $737 and whatever the mdf costs. You could honestly just drop one of those subs and it cost you about $538 and still sound amazing.
I had it professionally installed but they had it done pretty fast and didn't complain too much about the install. As far as how hard does it hit, I have a RF 800x1 amp (at 2 ohms) running to it and it hits really nicely down into I'd say 50hz or a little lower. About half the time I run it by itself and half the time I throw in a RF 12" in bandpass that is ported realllly low and that hits really nice down into the 30hz range or lower (and the amp does about 1200w into this 1 ohm load). I think it really depends on the type of music you listen to. If you listen to a lot of rock or jazz or 4-4 edm like trance or house the 10" JL is great by itself. If you are really a bass head and listen to a lot of dnb or hip hop or old school "bass" music like I do and really want to pound, it might not quite be low enough or loud enough. But I do think it's probably the loudest single 10 on the market, or close, and the advantage of the single 10 in the front is the back seats can fold down for camping. If you put enough watts to it it really is an insane amount of bass for so little airspace. But yea, half the time I augment it with a 12" in a bandpass with one of the two ports blocked so it's tuned lower (as weird as all of this sounds) to really fill in that rumble.
edit: PS for the element I ended up installing 6.5" RF separates with the tweeters surface mounted. This pair: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008IB8RD0/ very loud and the tweeters can be angle mounted. I'll post a pic of the angle mounted tweeters when I get a chance, one of the best setups I've heard in a vehicle.
edit2: Rockford fosgate tweeter surface mount in Honda Element https://i.imgur.com/Zc7ejwt.jpg
Thanks for the reply. I'm just going to swap my amp out for this one and wire down to 1 ohm.
https://www.skaraudio.com/products/skv2-1500-1d
I like Skar audio so that's my first choice.
http://www.down4soundshop.com/sae-1000-v2/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T0YAMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1502736001&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=fosgate+amp
https://www.ctsounds.com/collections/t-series-amplifiers/products/t-1500-1d
I'll add more in a minute.
Twisted sounds capable of 1200wrms
https://www.droppinhzcaraudio.com/content/twisted-sounds-ts1k-1000w-monoblock-bass-amplifier
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_40252_NVX-JAD1200.1.html
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_63975_Pioneer-GM-D9601.html
Can't find a link but Digital Designs has an amp that's in that price range and does around 1500rms
I know I'm missing some but your have MANY great choices.
I would just get an fm modulator or swap for aftermarket. A decent radio is less than $75.
You're gonna get a lot of hate for the brands you have there. You really get what you pay for with car audio and that amplifier is more likely to set your car on fire than it is to power those subs. As far as that head unit go with something like this instead.
I don’t suggest an FM transmitter. I used one for the past 2 years and you lose a lot of quality and sometimes they cut in/out, get static, etc.
Just get a new stereo. Here is an example of a unit under $50. Go through crutchfield.com and get the wiring harness and dash kit for free or discounted (it was free for my car)
If you can follow simple instructions (sent from crutchfield for your exact car) and you know how to match colors together you can install it yourself.
So here is the wiring for your car, in case you ever need to bypass the factory amp. Harness, Dash kit, and I believe you said you have the universal antenna, but if it's a small input may need this. Not sure if you have steering wheel controls either but if you do and want to keep it pick up this.
As for the radio pick up something with a name to it. Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC, etc. Listed some basic radios but invest a little bit more and you'll have bluetooth capabilities.
what about this one? Amazon Link
Edit: So yes/no all I need to do is decide on a receiver and I'm all set?
You could also look at swapping out the stereo deck in your car. Of course, it is easier and more straightforward with some makes/models than others.
example deck
I can't recommend getting a new head unit enough. I drove an '02 GP for about four years, popped a new head unit in and it worked great. You don't even need a chime module.
https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DEH-150MP-Single-Stereo-Playback/dp/B0091V0A9U/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1526319558&sr=8-5&keywords=head+unit
Apparently I was wrong...In my cart it says Pioneer is selling it but on the actual page it says Audio Watt Store is selling it
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091V0A9U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/Recorder-Dashboard-Dashcam-Authentic-NT96650/dp/B00JJ3L84G/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1406104652&sr=1-6&keywords=spy+tec
Spy tec ships from the US and they have legit G1W.
http://www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-G1W-Dashboard-120%C2%B0/dp/B00JJ3L84G/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1448995609&sr=1-7&keywords=g1w
I see 3 potential 'problems' in your response.
1 Price. That would generally be considered too low even for a flash sale for it to be genuine.
2 The card. SanDisk memory cards have been causing lots of problems with dashcams, it is well-documented. SanDisk found the problem to be the controller in those cards was being triggered by the high speed usage in dashcams and causing lockups. They responded by making a class of cards specifically for use in dashcams which they call the 'High Endurance Video Monitoring' cards.
3 The Seller. This is the major concern, and is perhaps the root of the problem. Black Box, the seller has a reputation for selling fake, cloned dashcams, this model being the most popular.
So, I wouldn't waste any more time trying to find what the problem is. You have a fake.
Try to get your money back from Amazon and look elsewhere. If you want to stay with the G1W, which is a good dashcam, I suggest that you get it from this trusted seller:
https://www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-G1W-Dashboard-120/dp/B00JJ3L84G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479147374&sr=8-3&keywords=G1W
No problem. The amp and sub are still around on amazon.
Subwoofer
Amplifier They have upped the wattage on the amp to 1600 now, be careful, that is close to the limit the sub can handle.
So if I were to get something like this, is there a recommended way to secure it to the floor of the truck?
I had someone install it for me but it didn't take them more than 40 minutes or an hour. The guy placed it in the trunk on the bottom right and mounted the amp on the back of my rear seat. I haven't had any major rattling problems. Here's the sub and amp I used
BOSS Audio AR1500M Car Amplifier – 1500 Watts Max Power, 2/4 Ohm Stable, Class A/B, Monoblock, MOSFET Power Supply, Remote Subwoofer Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004S55ES6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ESDLBb74C7KN0
Pioneer TS-SWX2502 10 inch Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sUDLBb74CJYAE
My doors and radio are stock but I plan on getting different speakers in a year or so
Hope this helps a little
http://www.visions.ca/catalogue/category/Details.aspx?categoryId=54&productId=21471&sku=GMD8601
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=YQM6GA30AQPL&coliid=I34PLZRDN6DOH0
Ok so 0 guage can be used for any wattage im assuming?
And what is your opinion on the sub i chose and this one?
I'm looking at a 2014 Mazda 6 Sport which has this dash. Looking to use this Pioneer head unit with this Metra dash kit. There's adapters so that I can keep the factory usb port and steering wheel controls. I'll probably spend the extra money buying the head unit from crutchfield for their customer support in case I need it. For speakers, I'm thinking Infinity Kappa's. I might fiberglass some tweeter pods for the sails, but if I'm feeling lazy, I'll just surface mount them to the stock sails. Gonna ignore the dash corners entirely (pretty bad speaker placement really, you can make it work with a dsp, but I don't want to spend that much....yet). I might go for a 10 inch sub in a sealed enclosure and am thinking about this pre-made box, but I also have access to a wood shop, so I might build my own sub enclosure. I haven't decided on amps on yet, but Rockford has a promotion where you buy a dual amp wiring kit and get 25% off an amp on crutchfield. Haven't done the math yet to know if I'd actually be saving money versus just buying from Amazon though.
Limited budget. Would it be recommended to go with the JBL speakers in the cheap proposed systems or with the Micca ones plus a ~$100 subwoofer (found https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=9723&AID=11051853&PID=7112509&ref=cj&utm_source=cj&utm_medium=11051853&utm_term=Skimlinks-2617611 and https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TSSWX2502-Shallow-Mount-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1502901197&sr=1-3&keywords=slim+subwoofer
were recommended)
For some background, they are for a fairly small bedroom and I have diverse music tastes but am particularly into hip-hop and electronic music. Specifically, bass heavy music so I want those low frequencies coming in pretty strong/clear. Thanks for any advice!
I replaced all the speakers in mine and it was seriously lacking bass until I put in a shallow sub. Got this sub and an amp off Craigslist. Did the trick. Gotta go for a shallow mount sub. Trunk space is limited for one in a hatch.
Trying to understand all the differences. Would this sub work?
I'm assuming I'll use 2 out of 4 channels to power it.
Jbl is always one of the top review for underseat subwoofer. What about this one, well its not really an underseat: https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-SWX2502-Shallow-Mount-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B00JQTU3QC
If space is an issue you should look at the 10 inch pioneer shallow mounted sub.
You can get it with a box for a reasonable price and it will take a good amount of power.
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JQTU3QC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485881674&sr=8-1&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=TSSWX2502
I use this: https://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-A118-Stealth-Dashboard/dp/B00NG84AT0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1467924289&sr=1-1&keywords=dash+cam+wedge
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-A118-Stealth-Dashboard/dp/B00NG84AT0/ref=sr_1_8?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1414631915&sr=1-8&keywords=dash+cam
Works great
Black Box B40 A118 Stealth Dashboard Dash Cam - Covert Versatile Mini Video Camera - 170° Super Wide Angle 6G Lens - 140°F Heat Resistant - Full HD 1080P Car DVR with G-Sensor WDR Night Vision Motion Detection - NT96650 + AR0330 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NG84AT0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_OLsHwbDVYGH7K
I ended up using two A118's like the OP. You have two independent SD cards and both front and rear shoot in great quality. The main problem I see with dual channel cameras is the poor quality of the rear facing camera which is partially limited by the ability to write two streams of videos to 1 SD card.
Here's a link to the A118 I bought a while back. They've been going strong for 3 years (front) and 2 years (back)
But now that the A119 is out with a similar stealth form factor and better sensors, I would go with that.
Also, avoid the mistake I made of buying a SanDisk card. SanDisk cards are notorious for not working well with dash cams.
I keep a G1W-C fixed in front of my rearview mirror. Anybody looking for it will notice it, and now I wish I had picked something easier to conceal. Something like this look much better, and I wish I had dished out the extra cash for it.
I live in a decent neighborhood, park on the street, and I keep my doors locked. Nothing else of value is kept in the car.
Maybe we could hide our dashcams somewhere under the hood, looking out the front grill!?
Everyone ok?
I have one mounted in the front of my Wrangler just in front of the visor. I did not like the mirror attached versions. You probably want to get a capacitor powered version onstead of battery. Heat is not good for the batteries, plus with a capacitor, you wire it into the accessory circuit and it's always on when your vehicle is. Set and forget, front towards enemy.
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-A118-Stealth-Dash/dp/B00NG84AT0/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525797093&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=black+box+b40a118+stealth+dash+cam
These are the setups i run. i prefer the apeman more.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GFF7NLB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 with mount https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0102CK1BS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NG84AT0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
be sure to get the biggest SD card the camera will hold.
So this misses your dual channel key feature, but I got it a year ago and it held up to the heat in Phoenix, AZ nicely.
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Capacitor-GPS-Stealth/dp/B00TXR2P40?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
I've had this one for a little over a year now and it's been great. I hardwired it to a switched fuse so it turns on and off with the car, and the two sided tape has made sure it stays put on the windshield. It was small enough that I was able to mount it in front of my rear view mirror, so most of the time I forget it's even there.
I have this one in my Prius...works pretty well. I haven't installed one in my Lexus yet.
It doesn't get as hot as that here but I was also interested in a capacitor based cam.
I got the Black Box B40-C from amazon for less than $80. I believe this is a 118 cam.
One thing I liked about this cam is that the cables attach from the top rather than the side. It makes for a very stealthy install.
That is the same shape I was looking at but the price is way better, plus this one comes with GPS stuff and a capacitor. Thanks for your recommendation! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TXR2P40/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1464315100&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=B40%2FA118&dpPl=1&dpID=41m3ffJV8RL&ref=plSrch
There is a custom shop by me, I might see of I can get them to put power in the back of my car so I can put my g1w on the back window.
This guy right here, Black Box B40-C
I'm pretty sure this is it. I like how I can hide it behind my mirror. The quality is decent, and it has a battery that allows the camera to continue to record for a certain amount of time after the engine is shut off.
Most of the time I forget it's there until something fun happens on the road. Have had it for over a year and the peace of mind is worth way more than the cost of the camera.
Edit: Looks like for $15 more you can get one of a similar format that is more favorably reviewed. Rexing.
Here is the link It is nice and sleek, not too noticeable in the vehicle. Great Quality!!!
Edited* You can also purchase a hard wiring kit, I wired mine into my mirror.
I have an A118C & like it. Good picture & fits all requirements you listed.
EDIT: Although, the rear cam is of lower quality come to think of it.
I may spend 29 bucks on amazon for a replacement= hd cam for the rear
In case you don't want to do what is often suggested here (wire into the fuse box), maybe I have something for you.
I got this for my 2017 hatch. The cord it came with was long enough. With camera mounted just to the passenger side of rear view mirror, the cord runs along top of windshield to the passenger door frame, tucked along the trim down the front of the door frame to the bottom, under the passenger seat, and into the center console. It really only has maybe a few inches of slack, it's actually quite ideal length. The only spot it's really visible is where it crosses from the upper corner of the windshield to the door frame. There's a seam in the interior there so I'm sure it could be hidden but I didn't want to start taking pieces of my interior off in order to get the cord behind without causing damage (I mean, at that point you may as well go the fusebox route).
Is this the model you went with? I see several on Amazon but it seems there's half a dozen "A118C" with minor differences and all of the lower priced ones have about 3 stars. This one seemed to rank a bit better and have more info
https://www.amazon.com/AUTO-VOX-Dashboard-Capacitor-Internal-Recording/dp/B00UUQD9L6/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1502665119&sr=8-8&keywords=A118C+dash+cam
Since 2016 - it was this one - out of production now but it's newer A119 versions are available. It's been parked in the Phoenix sun for about a year now and where I moved from before was quite toasty too.
I also use a Roav in my jeep
higher quality video but it has a battery - I do keep that car garaged and out of the sun.
Dash Cam Mirror Mount - Fits Falcon F170HD,Rexing V1, Z-Edge, Old Shark, YI, Amebay,KDLINKS X1,VANTRUE and Most Other Dash Cameras https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0102CK1BS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YN8ZAb3HE1P74 - Mount
Roav by Anker Dash Cam C1, Car Recorder with Sony Sensor, 1080P FHD, 4-Lane Wide-Angle View Lens, Built-in WiFi with APP, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording, Night Mode, Parking Mode [Upgraded Version] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNSDRW8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OO8ZAbCG46QDE - Dashcam
The mount fits basically any dash can so there may be better ones out there!
something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Dash-Cam-Mirror-Mount-KDLINKS/dp/B0102CK1BS
Why not a dashcam with a ball-joint, like this one?
For the head unit I used a Pioneer 4200nex (this head unit is pretty much the same as the 8200nex(which is the top of the line head unit) but without the navigation. There really isn't a need for that feature since this head unit supports Android Auto and Apple Car Play, they both use their own maps)
For the dash kit I used the ADS MUS1 Radio Installation Kit (if you decide to go with this kit, the wire harness is already included inside the box)
Then I used the iDatalink Maestro ADS-MRR module so they would all communicate with each other, that also took care of the A/C, steering wheel controls and will also connect to the ODB2.
I did not install this myself, but the installer told me that it wasn't too difficult, and it was his first time installing this kit/radio into a mustang.
I love it!!! It was worth the all the money I spent!
edit: if you have anymore questions, feel free to ask :)
So, the install parts you listed in your initial response are standard for any vehicle and any stereo? I looked at Crutchfield, but their stereos seemed to be much more than Amazon's, although they may have included the install components. I'll have to look into that. Thank you for that very important heads up!
I found the perfect stereo, although it's quite a bit more than I'd prefer to spend: https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-AVH-4200NEX-Multimedia-Receiver-Touchscreen/dp/B01D6HPMZQ
So, I went to Crutchfield and utilized their tool to input the things most important to me, and this is what I came up w/:
I've never heard of Axxera before. Frankly, just looking at these units, I'm more likely to go w/ the Kenwood or the Pioneer that we were talking about earlier, although I do like the idea that the Axxera's have detachable face-plates.
What about the Pioneer AVH4200NEX? You gotta remember, I'm a computer guy, so I know nothing about car parts.
I ended up getting the AVH-4200NEX and using the extra cash to install and wire up a backup camera. Enjoy your gold!
https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-AVH-4200NEX-Multimedia-Receiver-Touchscreen/dp/B01D6HPMZQ
> 4200nex
is this the one you got?
https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-AVH4200NEX-Receiver-Motorized-Bluetooth/dp/B01D6HPMZQ
Not the BlackVue but it decided to go with this one due to a hot climate here in Florida (capacitor instead of battery). I highly recommend it.
VIOFO A119 Car Dash Cam HD 1440P 2.0 Inch TFT LCD Screen Capacitor Novatek 96660 H.264 2K (without GPS mount) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IEQU9WK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kPTGAbBGSTSEM
I got you
Should be the same one I have, Viofo A119
A119 no GPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IEQU9WK V45SWVI3 for a month 10%discount; A119+GPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IEQUABA I56TDYFM for a month 10%discount; A119+GPS+Hard wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KHC3I2M 4ZUK432I for a month 10%discount; A119+GPS+64GB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KHC3I6S PLYVXHJR for a month 10%discount; A119+GPS+64GB+Hard wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KHC3I9A WVZ7S75V for a month 10%discount
Late to this party, but I recommend the Viofo A119 with the gps mount. GPS mount makes it easier to remove the camera if need-be as well as makes routing the USB cable easier. Its wedge shape keeps it pretty well hidden at the top of the windshield, especially if your windshield has those black dots or the gradient. Has SD card alert, shoots up to 1440p or 1080p @ 60fps, and the lens can be moved up and down as well as left and right- makes it easy to adjust if you didn't mount it perfectly.
The only thing that might not make it worth it to some is that it has a capacitor instead of a battery, so when you turn the car off the camera turns off (very) shortly after.
The versions are very similar at a glance. I just purchased this one with the polarized filter. Excellent image quality.
checked out some reviews/videos, and i'm looking at the same model you have:
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IEQU9WK/
or this one, the Yi (couldn't find one that wasn't li-ion though?)
https://www.amazon.ca/YI-Compact-Dashboard-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B01CW4BEP6/
plus this fuse kit
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01N686R48/
question: is this a DIY job? or can you recommend a local installer?
> Viofo A119
This guy?
WOW !! I have never been "summoned" before. 8 years I've been on Reddit. Feels pretty cool.
Ok, here's MY situation with the camera. I got the
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IEQU9WK/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_13?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2E2D732KBQJI9
as recommended by the fine folks here at r/dashcam.
I've only come close to needing it once...and didn't wind up needing it. (Delivery truck driver ran a stop sign right in front of my bus while dicking with his phone.... annnd there was cop ahead I just slowed down, popped the door open,pointed and said "get'em !")
BUT, after that incident my boss filled me in (we watched the bus cameras..which i found out had a front facing camera..but it can't read plates.)
Our D.A. absolutely will NOT prosecute without video and a plate number. And a plate number is too hard to get because (as you know) I need to focus on the kids.
So yeah the A119 gets that plate number for me, with zero effort on my part.
It's solid, it's cheap and it get's the job done.
Mine is actually behind me and to the left it has a low deflection shot of that license plate and there's no mistaking that somebody is running my stop sign.
FORTUNATELY, I have a semi-rural route in Wisconsin...and hardly anybody runs my stop sign. I've really only had that one bad incident. (and a cop just happened to be close by)
Don't know the exact model, but it's a Pruveeo.
I've used this since may of last year
Close call
I bought this.
pruveeo F5
I already started the refund process with amazon.
So, I have one of these and it works well but I've only had it since December.
I bought this kit to hook it into my fuse panel. Works great.
My only complaint is that the settings don't stick all of the time and the company's response was to send me a second one (which they let me keep the first) and when that did the same they just told me to "use the default settings."
I didn't but it still works :P
$37; it's not that hard: https://amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KZWMGFY
Save your money and get this, $29 and we use it in every vehicle. Worked great for insurance purposes in a previous accident.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KZWMGFY?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZWMGFY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
About $50 canadian. Uses wifi to download the video onto your phone. Works like a charm.
OK I have a question about bluetooth earbuds. I want a model I can wear in one ear (mono?) to listen to music/podcasts while running outside while still being aware of what's going on around me. I already know about bone conduction headphones .
I bought this one and technically it works fine but it doesn't stay in/on my ear that well (the earbud part is too big to really stick in my ear securely, and the over-ear part is a little too big for my ears).
Has anyone bought something similar that they like and that fits really securely? I'm also looking at something smaller like this but can't find any that have a fin attachment, so again I'm worried it would fall out. I know there are "truly wireless" sport earbuds that have the fun but I would only ever wear one at a time.
Another maybe dumb question which could totally change what I'm looking for -- are these single-ear models only good for podcasts and phone calls? Am I only getting one ear's worth of stereo music sound?
Thanks
They make bluetooth single earbuds.
https://www.amazon.com/FOCUSPOWER-Bluetooth-Smallest-Invisible-Headphone/dp/B01M2ZOLLP/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1541817442&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=earbuds+bluetooth+wireless&dpPl=1&dpID=31IHC%2B5oi-L&ref=plSrch
You could even buy air pods and use one at a time while the other charges in the case.
I am not sure if Bluetooth transmitters also receive microphone input, but I use a Bluetooth earbud and this transmitter. The latency is low and the quality is good. If you have a Bluetooth headset already it saves some money, otherwise I also use this headset. This one is only one ear, but any headset should work.
I am also uncertain, but I think must USB headsets, even wireless, should work with the study regardless of if it says "Switch compatible," but I have no evidence to back my claim.
I really like [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M2ZOLLP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_37dMzbW0R6ZGM) when I still want to hear what's going on around me.
Mini most reviews - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M2ZOLLP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_USu3DbGD9TN1T
Nude color - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQVMFUN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7Uu3DbC53ZS41
Ask your boss to use headphones or something. I use one of these to listen to podcasts all day, and it's awesome.
I couldn't work in a place where I didn't have control over what I'm listening to all day. Hell is other people.
I've recently (as in, this past Sunday) got this off Amazon, and they're coming in tomorrow. I'll make sure to edit the comment in case they're absolute trash (or if they're really great).
I find I end up not listening to podcasts a whole lot but I do have a handful I like listening to pretty often and I think this might be good to help with that when I'm out and about.
Given the reviews, the slight link increase over the other ones posted in the thread (that I had also seen) looked like an alright sacrifice.
I used this for a while, it actually sounds really good and the battery lasts quite a while if you follow the charging instructions (don't charge overnight) https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M2ZOLLP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
bluetooth earbud + NHL app + radio = party at work
EDIT - this is what I have, but there are lots of similar choices
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XAV-AX100-Android-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B01MF9W0GU
My favorite ddin until the current excelon stuff.
I had been looking at this [Sony](http://www.Sony.com/ XAV-AX100 6.4" Car Play/Android Auto Media Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sqJEAbGVBM331) unit on Amazon until I heard the new kenwood and jvc models will support wireless Android auto. Those were announced at CES last month.
I actually ended up going with a $15 phone mount :p definitely still considering upgrading in the future though
My eyes are still set on this slick little number here.
I saw this on sale today, apparently works great with carplay, check it out: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_0nuvzb86JX9GK
Android Auto/Apple CarPlay headunits are out there. yeah, it does suck to have to consider buying one to replace Toyota's Headunit right out of the gate. But hey at least you have the option.
Sony makes a really good one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nutTybC5BGJBD
But it clocks in at $500.
Really wish Toyota would throw their bullshit entune system out. Unless you are Porsche, all infotainment systems I've seen are ugly, slow and looks like it was programmed in the early days of the internet.
i am having the Sony delivered today:
https://smile.amazon.com/Sony-XAV-AX100-Android-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501081891&sr=8-1&keywords=sony+android+auto
I'm digging the interface on the Sony units. Anyone have any experience with them? Looking at this one particularly: https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XAV-AX100-Android-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1500478091&sr=8-3&keywords=sony+head+unit
I started with this
Sony XAV-AX100 6.4" Car Play/Android Auto Media Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HfZNBb13XS1Q1
Then bought this (in black)
http://www.jassperformance.com/shop/2DIN_Adapter_Stainless
And finally got these, so I can put it back to stock after:
https://www.carid.com/american-international/aftermarket-radio-wiring-harness-with-oem-plug-mpn-mwh856.html?singleid=16758971&url=78706468
Put that all together and you have a modern looking and sounding navigation system in your NA I don’t know about you, but I had been using a cassette adapter, and this is a big upgrade. All it takes it a little soldering and stuffing wires away.
huh. that sounds so much simpler than my Taurus was lol.
I'm probably going to be replacing the stock radio at some point anyway with this: https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XAV-AX100-Android-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ which probably also won't have a trip computer lol.
But in the meantime, It'd be nice to have. Maybe I can just buy a stock radio with the trip computer already active and slip it in.
I bought the Spytec Hardwire Kit that came with an add a fuse to have it hardwired to your fuse box. It was cheap and I have no complaints with it.
Get this in micro or mini-USB depending on what comes with your dash cam. Open up the fuse box cover on your dash, take out a fuse, put the add-a-fuse in its place, replace fuse you took out, run wire. Use popsicle sticks or something to stuff the cord behind the plastic and run the wire to your dashcam. Pretty simple!
Spytec sells fuse-tap kits for micro and mini-USB on Amazon for pretty cheap.
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
$69.99
$50-60
$45
$80-100
$100-120
$80
USB Mini hardwire kit
adhesive mount
Super Capacitor
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^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot
with this box and this amp edit: it would actually be about 50-60 bucks cheaper to go this route and you willl have better quality sound
Thanks
Im still new to brands, havnt been in this hobby for that long to absorb all the reviews. What are the cheap/unreliable brands that i should stay away from? Im tempted to buy cheap but dont want it to blow up and smoke lol i want something stable.
I was thinking something like this for subs -https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=psdc_2230642011_t2_B06XDHP82F?th=1
And slap on some kinda amp like this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004S4XKYC/ref=psdc_2230642011_t2_B00T3QBLYG?th=1
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Here's three that are dedicated DACs and Amps. I own the e10 and it sounds great, and not just for its price.
Also, they didn't say that the dedicated amp would be able to drive high impedance headphones well. Keep in mind that they're targeting Beats headphones which have low impedance.
Here is another Amazon suggestion. Any experiences with the NuForce uDAC2?
I've heard great stuff about the NuForce from a friend who has it.
I can't comment much on small monitor speakers, but I can tell you what I think of my Sennheiser HD280 headphones. I think they sound fairly good, but the padding is inadequate and after a few hours one of my ears hurts where it is touching a hard part of the headphone. If I was buying again now, I'd have a long hard look at the ATH-M50.
G1W is the best, most all-round dashcam and it's only ~$60
http://www.amazon.ca/Spy-Tec-G1W-Dashboard-120%C2%B0/dp/B00JJ3L84G
Black Box B40-C Capacitor + GPS... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TXR2P40?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
You have no fucking idea what you're talking about.
Here's a $36 dash cam that, when paired with a $20 SD card, will go back 4+ hours with audio.
EDIT: Here, I found an explanation for all you ignorant motherfuckers downvoting me since I'm apparently the first person in Columbus to hear of a dash cam