(Part 3) Best musical instruments according to redditors

I have the same headphones mentioned in this video, the Audio Technica ATH M50's, and I definitely think they were the right choice. I spent quite a while researching headphones to come to this decision too. The only problem I've had with them was about 6 months into owning them I noticed the stock pads were becoming a bit stiff. However, this was easily fixed by buying a $10 pair of Shure pads. If your budget is $200 I would get the M50X version because they have a removeable cable.

Edit: These are the headphone pads I go.

Be careful condenser mics like the Blue Yeti will pick up a dog farting 4 blocks away.

If you learn how to use a microphone and position it close to your mouth. I would go for a dynamic mic like the Audio-Technica AT2005 USB

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JX8O0Y

It is cheaper, higher quality, and won’t pick up as much noise.

Edit: I own both, because like most people I bought the Yeti based on the hype. But I did some research and learned about microphones and audio recording. It also depends on your use case. My Yeti (condenser mic) is great for when the kids want to talk to grandma, because they are never going to project their voice to the microphone.

But if you are podcasting or streaming and it is just your voice, dynamic microphones are the best. With my Yeti, I was picking too much background noise. I mean if you have a quiet studio, you could probably get by with a condenser mic, but it would pick up the fan noise from any computer case in the room. Noise suppression and noise gates can help, but you might as well buy a dynamic microphone.

Check out these resources for a good discussion:

• https://www.makeuseof.com/tag/condenser-vs-dynamic-mic-actually-need/
  
• https://homestudiobasics.com/condenser-mic-vs-dynamic-mic-differences/
  
  What I like about the Audio-Technica AT2005 USB, is that you can use it as a USB microphone, but if you want to get into higher end audio, it also has a XLR output. I personally just bought a used Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 to connect my AT2005 to. Next major purchase is a good mount and then I might splurge for a Heil PR40, Electro Voice RE20, or Shure SM7B. If you are rich with disposable income, I really like the setup they use on TWiT:
  
  
• http://wiki.twit.tv/wiki/TWiT_Brick_House_Equipment
  

Fair point. I'll cover him.

I recently bought a new mic setup after being entirely USB audio for years, and I wanted to see how good analog mics were nowadays.

I got this mic and this phantom power, and they are about the best sound equipment I've ever used.

Add to that a $15 stand, and you have significantly better than a yeti for 2/3 the price.

I've been using Command strips to mount stuff under my desk for a while now.

What we have here is

1. O2 headphone amp going to my CD Player.
   
2. O2+ODAC going to my PC
   
3. Rolls MX51S mixer.
   
   The Rolls MX51S has my laptop, my Amazon Echo, and my CD player all hooked up together and fed to my JBL LS305B MK II studio monitors.
   
   The Rolls does have a headphone jack on it, but the O2s sound way better than the headphone jack in it.
   
   And yes, I am planning to buy some black Command Strips at some point and swap them out.
   
   EDIT: These are the Command strips I am using.

For Christmas, my girlfriend got me a Vox AC30 amplug 2 headphone amp, which is a digital modeler of the classic Vox AC30 tube amp. Now she can watch Dancing With the Stars or whatever and I can still be on the couch practicing.

My initial impression is that this thing is bad ass. I really couldn't be much happier. I use a pair of Audio-Technica M50 headphones and the sound quality on this device is crystal clear. It can get loud too! When you crank the volume and gain to 10, it fucking roars in your headphones.

There are three knobs, volume, tone, and gain, which in and of themselves are incredibly versatile, offering a full range of tones from clean to incredibly overdriven.

It also has an effects button that cycles through clean, chorus, delay, and reverb. You can also put the whole device through three different modes by cycling the power button once it's on (mid boost, low and hi gain). Those boosts really give you new timbres and flavors to play with.

It's entirely possible to run this through a bunch of pedals too; it's an amp after all. It also has an aux in for jam tracks, metronome , etc. ALSO, you can definitely run this directly into a digital outboard recording system or your computer and record with it! The audio output is just a headphone jack, so there are a myriad of ways to record or listen to it. Even computer speakers!

Caveat to that: I've read that it the sound quality is directly related to the quality of your headphones/speakers though. Like I said, I have a decent set to play this thing through, but if you try to use some crappy earbuds your experience will much worse. Solid sounding, over the ear headphones are the way to go with this. Or again, speakers are totally an option.

I got the AC30 model, but there are also a classic rock, metal, and bass variants. It might sound like those are the way to go, but believe me, the AC30 can get just as filthy as the metal one. I've played an SSS strat, an epiphone sg tuned to C, and my Ibanez bass guitar through it, and even the bass sounded good through it. I like stoner rock and doom metal, really mid-heavy, low tuned stuff, and this can give me a lot of the sounds I'm looking for, while still retaining the sweetness and versatility required by famous Vox AC30 users like the Beatles, Kurt Cobain and Tom Petty.

And for $40, it's right there in your price range. Look up a couple demos on youtube and I think you'll be impressed. Just be careful not to buy the original model as it's the same price but without the effects and boosts.

If you have any questions let me know!

I got everything from amazon here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K88THN6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Z9JWZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CVNTL6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

The earpads aren't a perfect fit though, like I can rotate them pretty easily, I might just hot glue it in.

In the future, you can get Shure 840 pads for like $10 or even shure 440 pads for $7 if you need a replacement

Yes and no. You should put the sub on the ground butttttt, you should decouple it a few inches off the ground so that the vibrations don't travel through surfaces.

Audio engineers use these but you might find that £30 is a bit overkill

http://www.amazon.co.uk/AURALEX-ACOUSTICS-MOPAD-accessories-Speakers/dp/B0002D0B4K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413655545&sr=8-1&keywords=auralex

Some books will probably do the job, though not as good as those mopads.

By the way, this advice goes for speakers too (not just subs). Don't have them directly on the surface, have them off of it by a few inches

http://www.tmsoundproofing.com/decoupling-explained.html


If you really care, you can read more above.

For those of you playing late at night this is what you need.

Software: easy. Put the hard drives to sleep after X minutes, reduce the case and cpu fans speed.

Hardware: also easy but costs money.

1. replace the case fans with Noctua fans or equivalent
   
2. replace the cpu cooler with a Noctua cpu cooler or equivalent
   
3. replace the PSU with one that has a 0rpm or quiet mode
   
4. add acoustic foam
   
5. hard drive silencers but use an SSD as the main drive
   
6. additional anti-vibration kit and an anti-vibration rubber gasket for the PSU if you think it's necessary
   
7. external sound card or white noise filter (not the ones made for cars) for the speakers
   
   I did all of the above in my PC but in 7) I simply bought headphones with an integrated potentiometer.

TB, Jesse, and Dodger all talked about this in an old episode of the TGS podcast, and they all pretty much said produce, produce, produce. This is paraphrasing, but it amounted to: Find something unique that you can bring to the table - delivery, humour, editing, content, etc., get a decent microphone if you intend to do voice work, and keep making regular content. It takes months and years to find an audience, but as long as you stick to it, you will build one eventually.

It's also what most top youtubers say. If you're interested you should check out partnersproject! The interviews have a lot of little gems of information, and they talk with people like CorridorDigital and Freddiew.

Hope this helped!

Look into buying some of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Alessco-Rubber-Interlocking-Premium-Floors/dp/B0041LPSM4/ref=sr_1_4_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1458161760&sr=8-4&keywords=soundproof+floor

http://www.amazon.com/Mybecca-Acoustic-Soundproofing-12-12-Inch/dp/B00TP7C9YY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458161836&sr=8-1&keywords=soundproof

It's probably cheaper than going to court and losing or getting noise violation tickets.

The 5" JBL 305P MKII are currently $89.10 on Amazon. Lowest price ever.

JBL 305P MkII 5" 2-Way Powered Studio Monitor (new model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-RM9BbEJACK3K

https://camelcamelcamel.com/JBL-2-Way-Powered-Studio-Monitor/product/B077N2GQXC?context=search

Kyle's Setup

Microphone (Shure SM7B) - https://www.amazon.com/Shure-SM7B-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002E4Z8M/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=shure+sm7b&qid=1549674292&sr=8-2

That runs into a clean gain booster, Cloudlifter (I didn't know he wasn't running this since he got his Shure in 2014. Once I learned that, I had him get one and he's been running that for about a month and a half now) https://www.amazon.com/Cloud-Microphones-CL-1-Cloudlifter-1-channel/dp/B004MQSV04/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=cloudlifter&qid=1549674274&sr=8-5

Which goes into his mixer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CTKI10A/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now if someone wanted to run this setup, I would say don't get the Behringer, they have problems but most of the time they're fine. But you want to get a Focusrite Scarlett https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T50LY/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=cloudlifter&qid=1549674274&sr=8-12 or Mackie Onyx https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-Producer-Interface-Bundle-Polishing/dp/B07GJWQQM3/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=mackie+onyx&qid=1549674443&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1 (I recommend the Onyx but they're both fucking great, used both, currently running the Mackie in my new studio setup)

Taylor's Setup

Same exact setup as Kyle, even though I told them to get him this Blue Micrphone TUBE arm: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Compass-Premium-Tube-Style-Broadcast/dp/B078MLBGRM/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=blue+microphone+arm&qid=1549674585&sr=8-5

It's a way better arm. Kyle is using the standard Rode arm & either that's what Taylor's got now or he's using a super cheap ass one. But no way that cheap ass one would work with the Shure's weight, so he probably got a rode. But I recommended they both get the Blue tube arm.

Woody's Setup

Microphone (Electro-Voice RE20):

His preamp/mixer is all in his rack that's mounted with his PC which is down by his knee. I forget what he's using cause it's been many, many years since he built that thing.

The microphone arm he is using is the cadillac of microphone studio boom arms the K&M 23860: https://www.amazon.com/23860-Microphone-Desk-Arm-Black/dp/B00AXMM0L2?tag=paidinsi-20

-----------------

The Shure SM7B and Electro-Voice RE20 are the gold standard for radio and podcast production in studios. You can't go wrong. But if you get the SM7B then you need a pre-amp or something that's going to give you an additional 20-40db of clean gain.

If you don't have that Cloudlifter and just use it with that mixer, then you have to crank the fuck out of the gain which greatly increases and raises your noies floor. So you'll be audible and sound good, but you'll still get lots of white noise/background noise.

In my setup it's the Shure SM7B, Mackie Onyx, Cloudlifter, Blue Mic arm and quality XLR cables. When I plan to expand and add more microphones to do several people in studio productions. I'll create a rack unit VERY similar to what Lefty is currently running. With an electricity conditioner and the same preamp he has that I researched on my own and it's perfect for getting the clean gain added that you need so you don't need the cloud.

Oh those are cool speaker stands!

Checks on amazon to see that they are $110.

On second thought I really like the foam under mine.

We don't have a rule against it.. and you can totally pull it off (you would still need to be in mumble to hear your teammates) but generally most teams would frown upon it, as you aren't able to quickly give them information.

This mic here is $23.99 and I've been using it for two years. --> http://www.amazon.com/CAD-U1-Dynamic-Recording-Microphone/dp/B000ULQTE0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1412993851&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+mic

Also Christmas is coming :)

It sucks to hear but there isn't much you can do. I just got a Marshal DSL40C 100w where I'm having a similar problem.

I found a "quiet enough" spot with the gain super low and the volume even lower. Doesn't sound great but it's good enough for practicing.

Headphones are really your best option unfortunately. I don't like practicing with them either, but sometimes I have no choice. Plus I got something similar to this. New amp I got is heavy and I'm lazy so it's great for when I want to practice somewhere else besides my room.

You could also get an interface to plug your guitar to your PC and then use some sort of digital amp. It's not nearly as good but it's just for practice and at least you can play at whatever volume you want.

Another option would be to get a new practice amp.

I wouldn't get any pedals or anything. You'd be better off somehow cutting the volume after it hits the amp.

Nah, hand size won't mess you up. A lot of people say "My hands are too small for bass", when in reallity hand size doesn't affect too much (there are a lot of bass exercises that will allow you to properly extend your hand on the fretboard)

The Hal Leonard method is a pretty good book, go with it.

​

Also, if you're not getting an amp I reccommend to get a Amplug or something

https://www.amazon.com/AP2AC-amPlug-AC30-Guitar-Headphone/dp/B00NAUHX1G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480983646&sr=8-1&keywords=ac30+headphone+amp

I have this. It works well. Nothing beats a proper amp though.

Unfortunately, there's not much you can do to "soundproof" between floors without ripping drywall from their ceiling and adding insulation. You can try adding some foam panels in your room to help absorb some of the sound and reduce echo.

Sound tests (no lube used, stock sliders), and purchasing links:

No Silencing Rings, No Foam

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fEROEA-Bdxw


With Silencing Rings, No Foam

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CssQsHHXpDY


With Silencing Rings and Foam

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWGNEJj9dQE



Cyan Topre Keycaps

https://kbdfans.myshopify.com/products/electrostatic-capacitive-pbt-keycaps


Topre Silencing Rings

https://kbdfans.myshopify.com/products/topre-keyboard-silence-x-120pcs


Sound Dampening Foam, got the idea from /u/sodiumjoe

https://i.imgur.com/WnmBFTM.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-21-Inch-Dampening-Acoustic-SF01/dp/B0040JHMH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505596942&sr=8-1

https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/6xwbqg/even_quieter_silenced_fc660c_modification/

I made a post about this awhile ago but get the Shure 940 or 1540 ear pads. I put HM5's on my first pair of 9500's and it murdered the sound quality. The 940's really keep the integrity of the sound signature and ever so slightly boost the bass.

https://www.amazon.com/Shure-HPAEC940-Replacement-Velour-Headphones/dp/B005OM06RG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501355447&sr=8-2&keywords=shure+earpads

The Audio-Technica ATR2100-USB or the nearly identical AT2005-USB are ~$60-$50 and they also have an XLR port that allows them to be brought forward if you ever upgrade to a mixer or audio interface. The single most significant difference is the 2100 has a lifetime limited warranty and the 2005 has a one year warranty though I personally prefer the looks of the later. These are dynamic microphones which means they are quieter but reject room and off axis noise in non sound controlled rooms better. I have seen them compared to microphones costing several times as much quite favorably though I think a little of that is the reviewer waxing a bit poetic. Regardless, they are very good.

http://www.audio-technica.com/cms/wired_mics/b8dd84773f83092c/

http://www.audio-technica.com/cms/wired_mics/6dc0904d195f995e/

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR2100-USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B004QJOZS4/

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2005USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B007JX8O0Y/

!

He (the youtube animator) uses: http://www.amazon.com/Samson-C01UCW-Studio-Cakewalk-Sonar/dp/B000PTF0E2

I asked him.

Mounted on a shock mount. Probably the recommended Samson Spidermount.

If you don't want to pay for anything(Most bolded text should be clickable, otherwise google it):

Recording software: MSI Afterburners Recording feature to record. I suggest looking up youtube guides for it.

Livestreaming: OpenBroadcaster is a fantastic streaming program. Completely free with a lot of features.

Video Editing: Windows movie maker for simple stuff to put stuff and clips together.


-Now for what I use-

My Recording software: Dxtory. I use it because I have a ton more options than Fraps. Not to mention Fraps takes a lot more CPU than Dxtory does. Which for Planetside 2 is a god send. I also use a lagarith Lossless Codec with it. I suggest [THIS] video tutorial to get you a similar setup I have.

Video Editing: I use Sony Vegas Pro 11 because I won a legit copy from TGN ages ago. The latest is Sony vegas 12 (Which I'm sure a lot of people pirated. Which I don't blame em' it's tons of cash). I don't feel like buying the new version since it's practically a "big" patch with each new version.

Microphone: Any "decent" turtle beach microphone will do excellent when starting off. But, I use a C01U USB condenser microphone on a studio arm with a hand made pop filter. Sounds great for my type of voice.

Making videos, depending on what the video is. Takes a looooooong time, or just a few minutes. If you just wanna throw some clips together to show friends your MLG pro skills. My free option will do you nicely.

This.

Also: I'd put isolation pads under 'em.

Two easy options: This and these.

Have them both and the headphones get used more.

I was just about to! Thought someone could use this in an apartment or spare room.

1.) Get a screen room divider off of Amazon. I used a 6 panel with a paper film on it for $80, but you can pick up 4-panels for $60. I shopped around a bit for it, YMMV. The panels determine the size of your space that it encompasses. I stand and record and found that 6 panels is comfortable enough to enclose the shelf and I and leave plenty of elbow room. W/o the shelf it'd probably fit two people sitting, if a little snug.

2.) Buy some 12 inch acoustic foam squares. Double check the dimensions of each panel to determine size (mine was 15 inch, so I cut some squares into 1/4s to cover the whole panel). I originally started with 24 1x1 squares and eventually picked up another 24 to cover both the wall and the bottom 2/5s of the divider. Most manufacturers come with sticky tabs for mounting.

3.) When you mount, give the tabs an hour on the acoustic panels to set, then another hour set on the divider. Only had two pieces come off the first time and just reapplied spare pads I had laying around.

Overall, came out to be $150 for something I can save space with and take with me if I need to move or record elsewhere.

These would absolutely help if your apartment is echo-ey. It just depends how nicely you're trying to treat your room. Auralex makes some professional grade panels that will end up costing you a bunch, but you'd really only need those if you were doing some serious recording. If you're just wanting to cheaply treat your room a little then I'd check out something like this. They look cool and they'll help with the reverb in your apartment a little bit, but the change won't be super noticeable. I mainly just don't want people buying these thinking they will be able to watch porn on full blast without their roommates hearing. They definitely won't sound proof anything.

> I want it to sound professional

/u/JimEld - you will probably be disappointed with the results if you hide a recorder on the table in a noisy bar. The pickup pattern for the built-in mics is omnidirectional, so the ambient noise is likely to overwhelm your dialogue.

If you can't swing a boom between your actors, I recommend a [$168 used Zoom H4n Pro] (https://www.amazon.com/Zoom-H4N-Digital-Multitrack-Recorder/dp/B01DPOXS8I/ref=as_li_ss_tl?m=A2QIWAU5KJ023X&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1524404156&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) to save money - plus a couple of mics on booms outside of the camera frame - one for each actor.

You can get a [couple of Samson C02 XLR mics bundled with booms and cables for $153.99] (https://www.amazon.com/Samson-Pencil-Condenser-Microphone-Bundle/dp/B005EZ04X4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).

Getting a mic within a couple of feet of each actor's mouth is how you get "professional" sound.

Hope this is helpful and good luck with your short!

You can't go wrong with a Zoom H4n

Honestly, neither.

You are better off with a used H4N like this paired with a shotgun mic such as this one. Many a low-budget documentary have been made with that very combo for many years.

On-camera mics simply will not get you the professional audio you need. They are good for scratch or emergencies, and that's about it. Also, this is gear worth BUYING and not renting. Audio gear doesn't loose value. All links in this post are referral links.

The Audio-Technica AT2005USB or Samson Q2U (not Samsung)

https://www.amazon.com/Samson-Handheld-Microphone-Recording-Podcasting/dp/B07FKG8PGZ/

https://www.amazon.com/Technica-AT2005USB-Handheld-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B007JX8O0Y/

Both of these mic are plug-and-play over USB. But they also have XLR outputs if you ever want to move up to a more professional audio setup.

Those are ISO Acoustics set on the lowest setting. https://www.amazon.com/IsoAcoustics-ISO-L8R155-Medium-Acoustic-Isolation/dp/B008GOP79G/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524688566&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=iso+accoustics

I'm late to the party but I strongly disagree with your microphone suggestions. A condenser microphone is going to pick up mouse/keyboard sounds no matter how directional it is. I originally bought a Blue Yeti and was shocked by how much environmental noise it picks up, this is not a viable option for most people.

Instead what you should do is get a dynamic cardioid or supercardioid microphone. Not a lot of these exist with a USB connection but the ones that do work extremely well. I recommend the Audio Technica ATR2100-USB (alternative version) or the Samson Q1U if you can't find the AT, they're difficult to get in Europe for some reason.

Either of these will serve the purpose of the average steamer much better than the microphones you are recommending.

The headset that broke was the G35 headset from Logitech which goes for about $90 these days. It's a great headset but this would be my 3rd set in 4 years. The mic quality is average and often requires fussing with in post but overall it's a great headset.

While rocking this backup setup I've been using ear buds and I quite like it compared to the closed ear noise cancelling headset so I don't think I want to go the headset route again.

I've always wanted to go the XLR/Mixer route. This would allow me to manipulate any volume/noise issues with the mic on the fly and not touch it at all in post. I never settled on a solution that was afforable and always went with what I knew the G35.

This is the goal. It's not much more expensive than the G35 headset but is the correct tool for the job :Þ

• Audio-Technica AT2020 XLR ^USB ^version ^exists ^too
  
• Behringer Q502USB 5-Channel Mixer
  
• XLR Microphone Cable
  
• Microphone Suspension Boom
  
  A few notes about these choices. The 5 channel mixer is total overkill but this one functions as a USB audio interface meaning when you plug it in to your PC it shows up like a USB mic would. Behringer makes a 3 port USB mixer but I don't like the way it looks lol.
  
  Not all mixers have the ability to function as a USB device. On NON USB mixers you would have to run the output of the mixer into the input on your soundcard on your PC.
  
  I prefer the audio device approach. You plug your XLR mic into the mixer which is acting as the USB audio device. This allows you to control on the mixer what the computer hears on the audio device interface.
  
  Totally a long and involved answer but some might find it useful if in the market for audio upgrades :Þ

The best way to get some great recordings without breaking the bank is to grab a recording interface like this. There are a ton of options on the market, but this is known to be a good quality interface.

Next you'll need a DAW (Digital Audio Workstation). This is basically a digital recording studio and they range from simple (like Garage Band) to professional quality like Logic Pro X or ProTools. At the core they all basically do the same thing. You record tracks to create a mix and you make adjustments to these tracks so they sound good together. For example, you don't want everything going 'up the middle', some sounds you want panned toward the left, some toward the right, some in the center, etc. You'll also adjust the volume of each track individually so everything sounds cohesive.

Higher-end DAWs allow you much more power and flexibility. They will allow you to do things like compress audio signals, apply complex EQing techniques, perform automation (real-time knob turning, basically), route signals between tracks, apply various effects, many are bundled with a bunch of software instruments, and MUCH more, but don't let it all daunt you right now. Some of my favorite mixes I've done are very simple where I did nothing more than adjust the tracks' volume/panning and did some simple EQing.

Most recording interfaces come with a basic DAW. The interface linked above comes with Ableton Live, but you can use any DAW you want. Reaper is a popular choice for Windows users on a budget. It has a free trial that never cripples the software (you just get the occasional nag screen), but if you like it you should support the devs and pay the $60, it's a very powerful DAW for the price.

*One awesome resource is the recording revolution YouTube channel. I'm not affiliated in any way, I just find this channel to be tremendously helpful. There are a ton of videos for all skill levels.

I got this little plug-in amp thingy that my headphones plug directly into when I want to play on my electric on the couch while my wife watches tv. It's nothing special or fancy, yet highly portable and discrete.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NAUHX1G/

I like your style. Where there isn't any shortage of tech reviews, I like how you're doing it (fresh).

If you're going to continue (do it!) I'd invest in some of these. They'll absorb some of the echo, making the audio less tinny as well.

There's no way you can be on a team without a mic.

Price an issue?

• This Clip On Mic is only 8 dollars and is pretty high quality too.
  
  
• If you can afford to go higher I can recommend a Blue Snowball for $60.
  
  
• Also, maybe a CAD U1 for $30.
  
  Even a headset will do. Make sure you enable push to talk and are using headphones.
  
  Are you afraid? Get over it. Sorry for the bluntness, but consider your team to be friends. People you'd play any game with and still have a good time. If they aren't people you can relate to, don't join their team. It's that simple. Find people you can relate to easily. Find people that won't yell at you. Find people that will crack the occasional joke and laugh at stupid/amazing plays. You will create incredible bonds with these people, and have lifelong friends. These people must be more important to you than a random lobby player, so talk to them!
  
  And to be honest... most teams don't take people who can't/won't talk. Even if you were Clockwork or Ruwin.
  
  So, get a mic.

Awesome! I hope you do trying it out! Here's what I got.

Camera: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019UDIDXS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Audio Recorder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DPOXS8I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mic (Same we use for podcasting) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001IPUJJI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lighting Kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KRN0SEI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ring Light: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O1UCDKU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a subscription of Adobe Creative Suite and use almost all of it. After Effect and Premiere. We use Cubase for audio engineering but Audition is great too.

I'd look into the JBL 3XXMkII line.

Powered Monitors, I have the 306P and I love them. Good bit of customization for rooms too on the back.

https://www.amazon.com/JBL-305PMKII-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC

You can connect to the XLR with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TISINO-Stereo-Breakout-Double-Cords/dp/B07K58FTR8/

Also can add an budget Dac as an in-between (That's what I use)

Edit: Also a set of foam isolation pads to throw under them, bunch of options on amazon.

Hardware/software wise it’s pretty simple. If you have a semi decent computer you can find free audio software. You’ll just need to purchase a microphone that connects to you computer via USB and download something like Audacity to get started.

If you want an easier solution you could go with a a multitrack recorder like the Zoom R8 or this zoom portable recorder The ZoomR8 is nice because you can do all your work directly on it, or do as I do and recordson it, pull out the SD card and import what you’ve recorded into your computer for mixing and adding any effects that you may want to do. It’s a great way to learn in my opinion and the one I recommend.

If your computer has a built in microphone, you can probably skip buying a mic and just download the software record like that.

If you try Audacity and don’t like it, just google free recording software there are a few options out there. Also, if you have a Mac if any sort, you can always use GarageBand since it comes with you Mac. You may or may not need a USB microphone for it. I’m not sure, I don’t use it

Oh and go to your local library. They should have some books on getting started with multi track recording at home.

Hope that helps!

Cheers

It's definitely zoom

​

https://www.amazon.com/Zoom-H4N-Digital-Multitrack-Recorder/dp/B01DPOXS8I

Scarlett is known for making pretty good mic pre-amps for a reasonable price. I've used their 2i2 interface before, but the solo would solve your needs as well: http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Solo-Compact-Interface/dp/B00MTXU2DG

You want exactly amp or something to trevel with and play for yourself? All little amps sounds weak. But Vox amplug is good. 3 types of gain, 9 types of drums with different speed you set by yourself. Decent overall sound. And aux in for mp3 player
https://www.amazon.com/AP2BS-amPlug-Guitar-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00NAUKJTY

I was in the same position as you OP, the Sony Gold headset was really hurting my left ear. I bought these ear pad replacements last week and installed them on my Gold headset. http://www.amazon.com/Shure-HPAEC940-Replacement-Velour-Headphones/dp/B005OM06RG/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1463151767&sr=1-1&keywords=Shure+HPAEC940+Replacement+Velour+Ear+Pads+for+SRH940

I don't have pain anymore wearing them. At $16.xx, it's much cheaper than buying a new pair so it may be worth a shot for you.

They're these pads.

And here's a forum post about them.

If you want to cancel everything out then you should definitely go with a dynamic microphone. It's the kind of mic that they use when giving interviews on convention floors and stuff like that.

I recommend either the AT2005 or ATR2100. One of those paired with a scissor arm and a pop filter and you're all set :)

I believe they currently use something like the sE2200a which has been discontinued. If I'm not mistaken, Lewis uses the sE2200a II and the same mic was used to record Simon's vocals on Diggy Diggy Hole (based on the live-action video).

I personally use the Badaax UM900 (not to plug, but you can find an example of me using it here) which isn't exactly studio quality, but certainly gets the job done nicely. If you're looking for something that's more entry-level, there's always the Samson CO1U, the Blue Yeti, the Blue Spark Digital, or the Blue Spark.


All of these are very good microphones, and you should be able to find various tests of them on YouTube. Hope this helps. :)

Just feel like mentioning that a larger soundstage is nice for gaming, but will mean that sound leaks out of the headphones. If you live with roommates or in close-quarters (like a dorm), you absolutely should buy closed-back headphones or (even better imo) some nice in-ear monitors.

I just picked up the Massdrop x NuForce EDC in-ears and they are brilliant. Perfect for, well, every day carry. Throw them in my backpack, great for jogging, snug fit, crisp and deep profile.

Just throwing that out there.

I use the ATH-M50's at work. I replaced the ear cups with slightly larger and softer Shure ear cups, and I had to get a knit wrap for the headband, which was starting to flake. Overall, I highly recommend the ATH-M50 cans, they sound punchy and fun, but still flat enough to not overtly influence music to the point where I feel like using a software EQ. No amp needed, I plug directly into my MacBook Pro and play Spotify high quality @ 320 kbps.

These are really small and very popular.
http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-Monitor-Isolation-Speakers-Charcoal/dp/B0002D0B4K/ref=pd_cp_MI_2

The ideal/easiest material for this is foam.

For me at least the sound is way more important than the video quality. Laptop mics have an unfortunate tendency to pick up fan and hard drive noise, especially when you're trying to record something like whispering.

I'd HIGHLY recommend a USB condenser-style mic. You can get a good one for under $100 (right now I see that the classic Samson CO1U is discounted on Amazon, MSRP is over $200, it's listed for $77. Or the CAD U37 is under $50 and comes with a (cheap) mic stand.

Having said all that, I'd say just try it with what you have and see how it sound/looks before spending money.

If it is just you recording I would suggest http://www.amazon.com/CAD-U1-Dynamic-Recording-Microphone/dp/B000ULQTE0 a USB microphone. You get better control of the audio. A pop filter helps too. Context, I think about doing my own videos and did research on what equipment I would use.

I do use a headset, but not for recording anymore. The headset I use has great audio, it's a Logitech G35. I use a
CAD U1 USB mic when I record episodes. It's not a very good quality mic, but it's cheap.

It'll produce sound that's probably going to be better than any gaming headset that will ever be created within 50 or so years, in all likelihood.

Alternatively, assuming you're not running OS X, I'd recommend this instead.

> I was planning on running with the XLR->3.5mm setup for a while, but then going full XLR interface once I have time to tweak thingies.

If you do that, you're liable to blow up the damn microphone. I expect it'll require the standard ~5V from a motherboard's mic in port to function. So it'll either not function at all on an interface without phantom power enabled, or the 48V phantom power will cause it to fail either dramatically and explode, or silently and fizzle into nothingness.

I got this one. I'll tell you if it's any good, it should be.

Put this in the case. It'll help dampen by a lot.

U-Turn Orbit Plus w/pre-amp = $380
https://www.amazon.com/U-Turn-Audio-Turntable-built-preamp/dp/B01F9NE5IA/ref=pd_lpo_468_tr_t_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XN508YTVNDWSVDR3YSM4

Mackie CR4 Powered Speakers = $150
https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR4-Pair-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4O/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1467666368&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=mackie+cr4

Total = $520.

This is essentially the setup I have and find it a fine starter setup. It also takes up very little space as the speakers are powered so no need for a receiver.

Alternate tables to consider:

LP120 = https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT-LP120-USB-Direct-Drive-Professional-Turntable/dp/B002S1CJ2Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1467666443&sr=1-1&keywords=LP+120

Teac TN300 = https://www.amazon.com/TN-300-Analog-Turntable-Pre-amplifier-Digital/dp/B00P9WK1BW/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1467666461&sr=1-2&keywords=Denon+turntable

Denon DP300 = https://www.amazon.com/Denon-DP-300F-Automatic-Analog-Turntable/dp/B000FMNBXG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467666492&sr=8-1&keywords=Denon+turntable

Have you looked at using a headphone amp?
You can plug an external audio into the amp and then it goes out to a headphone/earphone. IME this worked fine.

https://www.amazon.com/AP2BS-amPlug-Bass-Guitar-Headphone/dp/B00NAUKJTY

Has anybody got any experience with the vox amplug? Only want to use it for at-home practicing

Looking to get a headphone amp while my current amp gets replaced, and for on-the-go playing in general. I've heard good things about Vox Bass headphone amp, and for $55 CAD it's tempting for the utility.

Thoughts on it? Also, might be a stupid question, but it'll work fine with the jack on the Audio Technica M50x, right?

Amazon is your best bet. I bought mine here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TP7C9YY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PtzwDb9S23MJN
Even though 2 packs don't fully cover my walls, they do fine in my rather spacious make-shift walk-in closet booth. There is no echo unless I'm at the other end of the closet and yelling.

Be warned, foam boards are NOT sound proofing, they ABSORB sound. Most people don't realize this, so before you spend money don't think that this will solve those pesky outside sounds. If you do want sound proofing you need special walls, but that is too pricey for most people.

Anyway,s good luck.

Do you have an external phantom power supply? That mic needs 48v phantom power. The mac input cannot supply it.

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014H8AWGC/ref=pd_aw_fbt_267_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Q7MVKA7W8MYJASZMTPQB

Just as I posted this I remember there is sterio microphones that have similar looking mic, I can't find the model your mics are for but I'm fairly sure that's what there for. Here is a example

https://www.amazon.com/Zoom-H4N-Digital-Multitrack-Recorder/dp/B01DPOXS8I

Top options for sound quality under $300 wouldn't be any of those. Go with one of...

Adam T5V

Mackie MR524

JBL 305P


For me, in this order. All will sound world's better than the other options.

"Build log" (mostly pictures) is in the imgur album.

This started off as a stock WASD V2 with Cherry MX Clear switches. I bought a 55g uniform RealForce not long after, and that has been my daily driver pretty much ever since. I actually thought I might just sell the WASD for whatever I could get for it.

I decided instead to go for the ergo clear mod, which sounds absolutely fantastic on the videos I've seen here, here, and others on YouTube. I also decided that while I had the case all apart I would add dampening foam to it and paint it to go with the SA carbon I just received.

Paint and clear coat for the case were from the local hardware store. I found the dampening foam on Amazon. I also picked up a Hakko tip cleaner and Engineer solder sucker from Amazon. The 62g gold springs and lubes are from Mehkee. They were out of their kits, but the lubes that are in the kit are all sold separately on their site, so no problemo.

The whole thing took about a week, give or take, and it was very tedious, to say the least. But the outcome has been simply spectacular. The ergo clears are so buttery smooth, and they sound awesome with SA doubleshot caps. I think the case color came out great. The WASD is now feeling a whole lot more premium!

Edit: this video was super helpful for the case painting.

Edit: here is the “before” post - https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/76s7rx/is_it_worth_it_to_do_the_ergo_clear_mod_on_a_wasd/?st=JFBLDQYL&sh=a9f5b0f2

That OP post is over excessive use of those foam and they are not meant for PC.

The proper sound dampening are to reduce noise from the panel which creates from vibration of hardwares. The side panel in fact is one of the component emit the most noise like a speaker.

This is what I use: http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-21-Inch-Dampening-Acoustic-SF01/dp/B0040JHMH6

Here an example: http://i.ytimg.com/vi/c9U_x8hRwU4/maxresdefault.jpg

Bruh, you might want to look into buying these pads right here for your phones.

I popped these onto my m50s a while back and they're ultra comfy and i can wear them all day.
Here's what they look like now: COMFY AS FUGGGGGGGG

Get Zeos to review these and we can finally kiss the yoga block meme goodbye.

This looks really nice.

> sees price $155 a pair

Wait this is why we have IsoAcoustics, which actually isolate. And for less.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008GOP79G/

They're the IsoAcoustics ISO-L8R Medium Stands. I'm sorry for forgetting to add them to the parts list above, I suppose I rushed that portion. :-)

Shure HPAEC940 Replacement Velour Ear Pads for SRH940 Headphones (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005OM06RG/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_OqSZtb0VJ79K2RZ7

I have M50's and I've read that 598's are ridiculously comfortable. I hated the stock ear pads on the M50's but, I picked up these and they made a world of difference. I can now wear them for hours and hours on end with no problem whatsoever. I didn't notice a huge change in sound either. For reference here are my M50's with the velour pads on them.

Try these bad boys. Mega comfy.

You could use bricks and a foam pad. If you want something nicer looking there's IsoAcoustics ISO-L8R155 for about $109:
http://www.amazon.com/IsoAcoustics-1004209-ISO-L8R155-Medium-Pair/dp/B008GOP79G

I wouldn't put any faith in their magic SQ improvements outside getting the speakers at ear level but for some reasonably cheap (compared to "audiophile" stands) and decent looking stands I don't really think one can do better for the $$:
http://ethanwiner.com/speaker_isolation.htm

I'm glad to see that you are researching it out and spending some time thinking about it. That's the right first step! I don't have experience with other mics to speak of, but I'm pretty happy with my purchases and what I'm able to do with them. So, some more food for thought:

• MXL 770 Cardioid Condenser Microphone $78
  
• Neewer 40037799 Scissor Arm Stand $32
  
• Behringer Q502USB 5-Channel Mixer $60
  
• MXL WS-002 Foam Windscreen $19
  
  I've since also added some additional toys for effects and fun:
  
  
• iRig PRE
  
• XLR Y-Splitter
  
  Here's a video I made showing what I'm doing with all of this: http://youtu.be/PDmhV3079RI
  
  
  And if you have a budget you're trying to work within, just stick to that and don't worry about the little differences between a slightly more expensive setup and what fits within your budget.

Depends on how you define inexpensive.

A good beginner setup would be a Neewer NW-800 + single-channel phantom power box of your choice + a clip on pop filter. Should cost you around $60 for the whole setup and get you condenser XLR quality that'll beat any USB mic in the same price range and much higher.

Links for reference:

• Neewer NW-800
  
• Phantom power supply
  
• Pop filter
  
  Do yourself a favor and use low-end, but real audio equipment like this instead of a Blue Snowball or Blue Yeti. Using those two mics is like writing "I have no clue what I'm doing" on your VA profile, but so many people do it. A Yeti Pro is the minimum you should go for in Blue mics, otherwise the people hiring you WILL be able to tell you're on a USB mic and they WILL use it to gauge your level of experience against you. As a general principle, XLR is a much better look when you're trying to get hired doing voice work.

Micca PB42X

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-PB42X-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00NXAEPDC

Edifier 1010

https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R1010BT-Bluetooth-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B071YV97LK

Mackie CR3, CR4

https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-Studio-Monitor-3-inch-CR3/dp/B00KVEIY4E

https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-Reference-Multimedia-CR4-Pair/dp/B00KVEIY4O

Or Spend some Coin n get Kanto - Quality, built in DAC, amp, sub out

https://www.amazon.com/Kanto-Powered-Speakers-Bluetooth-Preamp/dp/B01N1ZTJJK

Check out the suggested product list


Personally, I would go for these, which are not on the list and just recently entered the market and include all the cables and whatnot you will need - no additional purchases. THAT SAID, caveat emptor:

• Mackie usually makes really good equipment, but every company occasionally makes something that goes bad with time. It has excellent reviews now, but that may wane with time.
  
• Flat response. Your music will probably sound "Bad" to you at first because these are not calibrated like other speakers
  
• Bass is not going to be massive. It will be more than enough for most computer desks, but if you want really loud bass, you are both in the wrong subreddit, and have the wrong budget. That said, coming from your previous speakers, these will be much better.
  
  
  If this fiddling and whatnot sounds like something you're not up for, or not the kind of performance you want from your equipment, you probably need to get a set of bookshelf speakers, a sub, and an amp as per the suggested product list, which will likely cost more for a decent set ($200-$400.)

mackie cr4's

It's a bit more but I'm finding my Scarlett Solo does the job.

Not OP but I can help you out here. Let's break this down by component:

1. Speakers - There are two types: active and passive. Active = amplifier built into each speaker (i.e. most dedicated "computer" speakers from the likes of Logitech, Creative, etc.). Passive = 90% of speakers out there, must be connected to an amplifier to work. Typically passive speakers will get you a better speaker for a given price for an active but you have to figure in the cost of an amplifier. For a passive speaker set up, the cheapest system recommended over at /r/audiophile is a SMSL SA-60 amp and Micca MB42X Bookshelf Speakers. If your budget is higher, ask in the daily purchase advice sticky there (read the rules/suggestions thoroughly). I don't mess around with active speakers so I can't recommend any.
   
   
2. Microphone - For simplicity's sake, I will recommend you look into USB connecting condenser microphones as they are affordable and have good sensitivity. Something like the Audio-Technica AT-2020 or Blue Yeti are popular mics for under $100. I have the Yeti and can attest that it is a very good and sensitive multi pattern mic. They can be hooked directly up to your PC or if you want to get really fancy, check out an audio interface like the Focusrite Scarlett Solo or Scarlett 2i2. The nice thing about an interface is it allows you get a nice mic with an XLR connector (generally better than a USB connection) and it will work with your PC.
   
   
3. Headphones - Don't waste your money on "gaming" headphones. A nice 2 channel pair of cans with a standalone mic like I listed above will hands down outperform the likes of Turtle Beach and Razr headsets. /r/headphones has a really good wiki with more info than I can provide here and headphones broken down by price range and characteristics. Plus, then you can use them both for gaming and general music listening and have a good experience, something you don't get with dedicated "gaming" headsets. The amp I listed in the speakers section is fine for headphones but Schiit makes absolutely fantastic headphone amps and DAC (digital to analog converters, check out both /r/audiophile and /r/headphones for more info on them and why they are good for your set up) with very respectable price tags.
   
   Hope this helps. Higher quality audio equipment can be confusing and daunting, what with all the technical details, wide price ranges, parsing through all the marketing bullshit and the sometimes snobby attitudes of some "audiophiles". I wish you luck and feel free to ask me if you have any questions.

Happy Cake Day duder! Here are my suggestions!

Under 100$

[Lexicon Alpha](http://www.amazon.com/Lexicon-Alpha-Desktop-Recording-Studio/dp/B000HVXMNE/ref=sr_1_1?
ie=UTF8&qid=1412270622&sr=8-1&keywords=lexicon+alpha)

Scarlett Solo

Tascam US-32

Over 100

Scarlett 2i2

M Audio M Track Plus

Steinberg UR22


Personally, I use the UR22, mainly because I need the Midi in/out for my outboard synths, and the d-pre amps are quite nice for basic mics. I work for a music shop, and our best seller is the UR22. However, any of these interfaces would work well with FL Studio, and you would not be displeased with any of them. Let me know which one you get, dude! Cheers!

Ninja Edit - Stay away from Behringer, Gemsound, Pyle, and Pyramid. They are low cost, but have poor quality builds, poor converters, latency issues, and a myriad of other problems. Also, if you need multiple inputs and mixing capabilities down the line, I suggest these;

http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-MG10XU-10-Input-Stereo-Mixer/dp/B00IBIVL42/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412271070&sr=8-1&keywords=yamaha+mixer

http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Audiogram-6-audio-interface/dp/B001F1WNAS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412271058&sr=8-1&keywords=yamaha+interface

>don't see a guitar input


There's a 1/4" mono input in the centre of the XLR.


That behringer unit is prettly limited, especially getting the audio back out of the PC to your monitors. Line OR USB, instead of line and USB.


In your price range, better choices would be M-Audio MTrack Plus, or MTrack 2, Focusrite Scarlett or Presonus Audiobox


They all come with some form of 'Lite' DAW software as well.

Here you go:

https://www.amazon.com/AP2AC-amPlug-AC30-Guitar-Headphone/dp/B00NAUHX1G

Worth the 45 bucks, also sounds pretty damn good for what it is:

Vox AC30 Headphone Amp

Marshall 1 Watt mini stack

Orange Crush mini 3w amp

I second the Vox Amplug (Bass Version)- One of the absolute best things I've bought! The fact that it has that aux port allows you to plug your phone in and use ANY JAM TRACK on the web, i.e. youtube. And if you're not able to plug in for some reason, it has a few built-in beats to play to (and you change the tempo!)

You can even plug it into effects pedals at the end, as long as you have a long enough headphone cord! It's literally just a small pocket-sized amp that feeds headphones!

Here's an amazon link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAUKJTY/ref=sxts_bia_sr_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3182441022&pd_rd_wg=pKSfj&pf_rd_r=S30ENEJ72YT9AVEYW0W1&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00NAUKJTY&pd_rd_w=TJkkI&pf_rd_i=vox+amplug+bass&pd_rd_r=ZXV3J540X3Y62GEAE9C1&ie=UTF8&qid=1506310891&sr=1


Seriously, buy one now. You will NOT regret it.

Yes, being a linear tracking turntable helps to minimize tracing error from start to finish of the LP. It's P-mount so the VTF is already set at 1.25 grams, which is enough to prevent mistracking.

They get a bad rap, but that's because overtime the rails that the tonearm glide across get gunked up and it stops working. Clean it up, relube it, and it will work fine. Also, there's a tiny belt that attaches to the motor and a wheel that allows the tonearm to move to the left. If it's loose, it won't function properly. If it's not loose and can perform its duty, then you're fine for now BUT you really ought to replace it.

The Audio Technica 6006 cartridge is an older model of the modern AT90/92E/311EP/3482 series of cartridges. They're all P-mount. The 6006 should be closest to the AT311EP since they both have an output of 5.0 mV and a .3 x .7 elliptical stylus. I use an AT3482P on my LT turntable and enjoy it very much. The AT92ECD is also nice, though IMO I prefer the AT3482P because it isn't as bright. You don't have to buy a new cartridge, but in this case it makes sense because 1) it's cheaper and 2) you will get a stylus protector with a new cartridge.

Before you go playing any records (I know, it's tempting), make sure to replace the cartridge/stylus and ensure that the tonearm is functioning properly. Linear tracking P-mount units can be a pain in the ass to get working, but once you do you will have a hassle free turntable.

I'm glad to assist as I'm a fanboy of this type of Technics turntable. I have an old hobby of restoring and collecting Japanese TTs and there's an SL-10 in my collection. I'd love to have an SL-7 too, however I'm falling behind in the "restore" area the last few years.

You will need a phono preamp since the SL-7 does not have one built in, and neither do your Miccas. The sky's the limit on phono preamp prices, however they're a rather simple beast so even the cheapest ones work pretty damned well. To keep things simple for now I'd recommend this one for sixteen bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PP999-Phono-Turntable-Pre-Amp/dp/B00025742A

Assuming the SL-7 is good to go and has a cartridge/stylus with some life left in it, that'll be all you need to make music. Your Miccas have amplification built in, so that's it.

If you do need a new P-mount cartridge, this one is very good for the $27 it costs. It's what I have on my SL-10 because I can't afford high-end carts on everything. Be aware there's a small screw that holds it in place on that little tonearm and it must be completely removed first. It's hard to see, so people have ripped off the entire arm trying to pull the cartridge free.

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT92ECD-Universal-Replacement-Cartridge/dp/B00006HO3L

Last thing I should mention, there are two plastic ears on the SL-7 that are a failure point, since all examples of this turntable are very old now. They latch the lid to the lower portion, or plinth. Treat them very gently as there are no replacements for them.

Dayton Audio SUB1000 is a great budget sub for the money. You would use the inline speaker connections to connect it to your receiver.

Probably help to pull your speakers forward an inch or two so that the drivers are not reflecting off the sides of the hutch on your desk. That would also give the rear ports just a little more room to breathe. And if the tweeters are aimed at your chest, a speaker pad that helps to angle them up towards your ears would probably help https://www.amazon.com/Auralex-Acoustics-Monitor-Isolation-MOPAD/dp/B0002D0B4K/

Check these out! They're really good for speakers sitting straight on the desk

First thing... Never remove a ground from a power adapter. You're removing the ground from the wrong place and it can be dangerous.

Something like this can help / fix the issue completely: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-BEHRINGER-MICROHD/dp/B000KUD2G4

It's basically a line level isolator. It sits between your soundcard and monitors and isolates using transformers. It ensures that there is no direct contact between signal lines as it only transfers the signal via the transformer, one for each channel (left and right).

There are a few models of this sort of thing out there but the Behringer is good value and performs well. I've had one in between my computer and monitor and casual A/B tests show that is doesn't affect the sound in any perceptible way.

If you don't trust Behringer, google "transformer isolated line level signal" for more boxes that do this.

Lifting your grounds on your power will get rid of your hums, sure, but it also gets rid of the safety function that grounding pins play, which is in the event of failure of your device, the power flows away safely.

This is basically like coil whine. I had this with WoW and KRK's too! Basically just electrical interference from your graphics card being picked up by your KRK's - you'll notice the buzzing changes as your framerate changes. I fixed mine with one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-MICROHD-Hum-Destroyer-HD400/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=passive+hum+destroyer&qid=1562644272&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Do not use that capture device. It's only standard def and will look utter shit or won't run.

For capture devices there's a few options out there some more expensive than others. RT use Black Magic's Intensity Pro which is an actual capture CARD that fits into your PC, it's rather pricey and records uncompressed footage so it's better for advanced users.

I suggest looking at the Hauppauge range of capture devices such as the HD PVR, HD PVR 2 etc. I have the first HD PVR model which is component only but it's worked for me fine for years though to future proof I suggest getting the PVR 2 since it supports HDMI.

Editing software; either Premiere Pro or Sony Vegas on PC and Final Cut Pro 7 on a Mac but seeing as you're on a PC the former applies to you.
Very expensive but there are "ways" to acquire them for "free" if you get my drift...not that I condone such actions ;)

Mic-wise; I use a Samson C01U USB condenser mic but I've heard many good things about the snowball mic. I suggest, though not very necessary to get a pop filter also to stop all the popping sounds or the audio clipping if you accidentally blow into the mic.

Watch a TON of YouTube videos about editing; it's can be a hell of a lot harder than it looks but once you learn your away around the software of your choice; you'll get faster and better each time, the more effort you put in; the better quality your work will be.

This should be said; all the hardware and software in the world can't change a bad commentator; be confident when performing voice over; get used to your own voice, you'll be hearing it a lot and make sure you always have a topic at hand to talk about dead air is the worst and keep all the "erm"s to a minimum!

Hope this helps.

Yes, and while it’s really really cheap, I find the quality to be surprisingly good when on a stand and the mic is very close to your face.

Here’s the mic I bought.

Here’s the stand I bought

Here’s a link to my voice in a YouTube video I uploaded

Not a great YouTube clip lol but it’s quiet and clear and that all I need for YouTube uploads and discord.

I've had these phones for about a year. I would recommend doing two things to improve the comfort, that is if you don't find them comfortable.

1. Buy these if you think the ear pads are too small, or if they pinch your ears.
   
   
2. I felt the phones were putting too much pressure right below my ears on my upper jaw. So I bought a sweat band and attached it to the bottom of the headband. They fit so much better now, and even though it looks silly, it feels great.
   
   I have to say that these two adjustments have made a world of difference. Cheers, hope you enjoy some great sounds with them.

I love my Zoom H4N Pro portable recorder. If you have the money for it you could go with the H5 or H6.

1. find a sturdy flat rubber washer that’s inner diameter is JUST enough to stretch over your strap button. The red ones from a Grolsch swing type bottle can work. Or, really any washer whose inner diameter is smaller than the outer button flange that you can install on top of the strap, unscrewing the button if needed. Even a plastic bread clip can work in a pinch, but a sturdy plastic clip like the Dunlop Ergo Lok or StewMac Lokstrap is a more sturdy no-mod solution.
   
   
2. You could get a reverb pedal like the TC Electronics Hall of Fame, but you need to be aware of the mic/line level difference, phantom power, and adapting to/from XLR to 1/4”. Edit:links.

Decent mic arm

Pretty good mic

Phantom power supply which you need because this is a condenser mic and requires external power to operate

Pop filter because duh

Decent Headphones imo

Total: 132.55 with sales.

Audiophiles will probably jump down my throat for this list but this is an okay starting point if you want decent equipment. The mic's a little quiet but this can be fixed computer-side.

Thanks! I use a zoom H4N:
https://www.amazon.com/Zoom-H4N-Digital-Multitrack-Recorder/dp/B01DPOXS8I/ref=sr_1_5?crid=188MA6CEIRBXE&keywords=zoom+h4n&qid=1551376700&s=gateway&sprefix=zoom+h%2Caps%2C203&sr=8-5

You should also look at audio. You can use a Zoom H4N for your audio, and connect it to lavalier microphones. Or you can use an on camera mic like the Rode Video Mic Pro.

Do you have a smartphone with a voice recorder? That’s all I use and it’s remarkable how well these sound considering their general availability. I usually put the phone behind the body of my acoustic to balance the sound with my voice.

That’s about as good as you can get with a low budget. Most “budget equipment” out there that’s designed for this purpose is not going to be significantly better that it’s really worth shelling out money, unless you really want a step up, which obviously costs more.

If you want to overlay tracks, there’s apps for that too depending on what kind of phone you got, but usually I’m going for a natural real live sound, so I generally record my voice and guitar together on one take.

If you have a couple hundred dollars to spend, I’d recommend an “h4n pro”. It’s got amazing sound for the price, does multi-track recording, it’s a good room mic for a band practice and it has some onboard effects that are very cool to use if you do it right. I can’t really recommend it enough considering the bang you get for your buck. We’ve broken our a couple times over the years and I always seem to keep coming back to it.

Everyone else has mention audacity, but that’s what I’ve been using for years and still do. Find some cool plug-ins and you can really do a lot with very little or no money down.

Look at the size of the bass drivers, and the rated bass response.

The Mackie CR3 have 3" bass drivers with rated bass down to 80hz. I had speakers on my computer that were rated down to 80hz, and they sounded OK. But 3" Speakers are not going to rock the house.

On Amazon, these speaker are $100/pr. Is that the limit of your budget?

The Mackie CD4 at 4" only give you another 10hz, response down to 70hz, and the price is $150/pr -

https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR4-Pair-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468956016&sr=8-1&keywords=Mackie+CR4

The Mackie MR5 MK3 are 5" speakers with response down to 45hz though the price is about $240/pr -

http://mackie.com/products/mrmk3-series

https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-MR5mk3-5-Inch-Powered-Monitors/dp/B00EUISUGE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468955775&sr=8-2&keywords=Mackie+MR5

These are very good speakers.

So, the conclusion is that the Mackie CR3 and CR4 will not have excess bass.

In that price range for a 2.1 setup, you are not going to be getting the best quality. Heres what you can get for around that price with decent reviews:
https://www.amazon.com/Thonet-Vander-Multimedia-Speakers-Engineering/dp/B00Z792296/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1469841393&sr=1-7&keywords=2.1+pc+speakers

https://www.amazon.com/Deep-Sonar-Subwoofers-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00U7HQWU8/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1469841350&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=2.1+pc+speakers&psc=1

Honestly, you would probably be better off losing some bass and going with a set of powered monitors like theses:

https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR4-Pair-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4O?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00KVEIY4O&linkCode=as2&linkId=ZEZ6OTJAND4GB26R&redirect=true&ref_=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl&tag=wwwpuresimula-20

Get a pair of studio monitors. You can add a dedicated subwoofer later if the bass response is not deep enough for you.

https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR4-Pair-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4O

My setup is M-Audio bx5s and a $5 thrift store subwoofer w/ a chinese $30 amp.

I hear good things about these though

My suggestion would be to get an XLR setup. They are much more customizable, upgradable, and have much better quality than a USB setup. For $167 you should be able to get a Focusrite Solo or a Behringer Q802USB and an ATR2100 or an ATR2500.

Well, I like your list. I don't know that Rode mic in particular but Lefty had two different Rode mics during PKA and they both sounded great.

I'd personally point you toward the RE20. I love mine and you don't have to be right on top of it to sound great. I also love my Shure SM7B but more than one person has mentioned to me that they can hear me breathe so I'm either going to switch back to the giant foam pop filter or to the RE20.

This package is $500 but it comes with the mic, shock mount, cable, boom, etc. http://www.amazon.com/Electro-Voice-Microphone-Shockmount-Two-Section-Broadcast/dp/B00U1S4YY4/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1457378551&sr=1-2&keywords=re20

I don't like your audio interface. In particular it's analog and in my experience if you turn up the gain on an analog mixer you get a hiss. It's not a subtle hiss you think you hear either, it's a real problem. (Or maybe the one I had was just extra bad?)

Anything in the scarlet focusrite series will do, this one is $100: http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Solo-Compact-Interface/dp/B00MTXU2DG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457378874&sr=8-3&keywords=focusrite

For $150 you can get two inputs: http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-2i2-USB-Recording-Interface/dp/B005OZE9SA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457378874&sr=8-1&keywords=focusrite

Let me know how to sound wedges do. I typically just count on curtains, shag carpet, oil painting and furniture to break up the sound.

> The Razer Seiren features a versatile multi-pattern USB digital connection capable of four different recording pattern configurations with three custom-tuned 14 mm condenser capsules. This makes the Razer Seiren digital microphone ideal for the needs of professional musicians

Yeah... no. Not without an XLR jack. Microphone preamps are as important (some say more important) than the mic itself.

These USB microphones are fine for streamers, but not at this price. Think about it, this is what you are getting:

• 1. Small microphone capsules (3)
     
• 2. Microphone preamp
     
• 3. Analog to digital converter
     
• 4. Microphone preamp
     
     Between say, $60 and $200, you really wont see "studio quality," for "professional musicians."
     
     Besides that, condenser mics would not be my first advice for streaming. They excel at picking up transients and room noise (clicky keyboards, anyone?) and will sound horrendous when they clip. If you want to step up your gear, buy a Focusrite Scarlett Solo and a Shure sm57 for a bit more money. Or if you really want a condenser, you can get an MXL 770. If you truly want broadcast quality, get a Shure sm7.
     
     My friend has a yeti, it's fine, i have heard streamers with the Blue snowball mic, yeah it sounds fine. But don't charge $180 and call it studio grade. It's like HP passing off a $300 prebuilt desktop as a gaming machine.
     
     EDIT: Or a great option is the Sennheiser broadcast mics. The HMD280 is an HD280 with a mic slapped on it, and this is stepping into the realm of actual broadcast-quality gear. It will sound awesome, will pick nothing up but your voice, will not clip, and hey you get a $100 pair of headphones to boot. You'll still need the preamp though.

Definitely understand being new to the game, took me a while to figure out what I needed for live use.

Here's my 2 cents:

• Free/low cost synth samples: You could check out the free Proteus VST, which includes tons of 80s and 90s style synths, basses, horns, strings, etc. sampled from the 90s-era Proteus 2000 rompler. http://www.creative.com/emu/proteusvx/ Check out sample videos on YouTube to see if you like the sounds . . . it is FREE, so that's a selling point. I've heard good things about Arturia's Analog Lab software, I think it's relatively cheap . . . you can get the software bundled with a keyboard controller for $99 (or less if you shop around).
  
  
• I don't know about PCI, but if you're trying to use USB to go to a PA, there are lots of choices available. A standard USB audio interface with one set of L and R outs to a PA board would probably run you $50 at lowest on Amazon. You can also find some small mixers that have a USB interface built in, like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Alesis-MultiMix-USB-Four-Channel-Mixer/dp/B001T9O5VG/ref=sr_1_11?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1421427469&sr=1-11&keywords=usb+interface
  
  I haven't used this mixer, but I've had good luck with Alesis mixers in the past. Using these interfaces would require you to run cables from the outs of the interface to the ins of the PA's mixing board.
  
  If you've got the money to spend, a better-than-lowest-rung USB interface might be a good investment. I bought the Focusrite Scarlett 8i6 for home recording a year or so ago and LOVE it . . . you can find smaller/cheaper interfaces in that range and they're all great - it just depends on the number of ins/outs you need: http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Solo-Compact-Interface/dp/B00MTXU2DG/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1421427916&sr=1-4&keywords=usb+interface&pebp=1421427921645&peasin=B00MTXU2DG
  
  
• Not sure about Chromebook . . . I don't have one. Does it allow you to install windows-based applications at all? Software apps on the Android platform are limited as compared to iOS because of the latency common in a lot of Android devices . . . but I'm not sure the line between Android and ChromeOS, having never owned a Chromebook.
  
  You could check out AudioTool: http://www.audiotool.com/
  It's a browser-based music studio with bass synths, key synths, samplers, sequencers, drum machines, etc. I believe it'll let you connect an outside MIDI controller keyboard and play the synth modules.
  
  Hope this helps!

It really depends on how much you want to spend and what you're planning to do with your setup.

I personally use a Rode NT2-A with a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 interface (or you could get the Solo and save 50 bucks, but I needed two input ports) and I am pretty satisfied with my setup - I've been using both of them for a whole bunch of paid audiobooks I've done over the years, so they've paid for themselves many times over.

I started out with a Blue Yeti myself, but I decided to change it as soon as I started getting more work. It's not a bad mic, but it's not stellar. When it comes to cheaper USB mics though I'd recommend the Rode NT-USB - my NT2-A broke down over the summer and I was supposed to be recording an audiobook, so I needed a decent replacement until my main mic got repaired. It's slightly more expensive than a Blue Yeti (goes for around $170, while the Yeti is around $100), but I think it's a better quality mic. I still keep my NT-USB at home to use for smaller work that doesn't require going to the studio.

I bought one of these Vox Amplug AC30 units. It's actually pretty nice, and effective at keeping the noise down.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAUHX1G/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1463535705&sr=1&keywords=vox+amplug

I have the VOX headphone amp that I use with my Traveler Electric. Headphones, amp and tuner fit right into the guitar bag. The setup is great for travel. I can play on trains, in airports, in cars, anywhere. The guitar is loud enough that I can't play in, say, a library or on a plane, but anywhere with a little background noise no one gets bothered.

The headphone amp does its job well. Doesn't sound anything like my home setup, but it delivers some good sustain and even reverb and makes practicing on the go useful.

Well depends how crazy or simple you wanna get. You have a ton of options.

You can do decent practice amp with headphones out

Multi effects pedal with amp and cab sim

Audio interface but then you need software, mess with plug ins, drivers and output. Like you mentioned before PC speakers should be ok for practice.

And if you want super simple, they sell this little adapters that connect to your guitar that have built in effects and are for headphone use.
VOX AP2AC amPlug 2 AC30 Guitar/Bass Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAUHX1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yvH5Cb2SHFAB0

My younger brother got one and it’s not amazing sounding but pretty decent for what it is. They have various models. But this would be more of something extra for quick and easy practice and not really for a main or serious practice. Unless someone has more experience with them. I only played with one briefly.

Vox makes adapters that plug into your guitar, then you can plug headphones into them. My girlfriend uses the Bass version as to not disturb her roommates and loves it. No amp needed .

VOX AP2AC amPlug AC30 G2 Guitar Headphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAUHX1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_F43dBbGRT3KT7

You might want to look into headphone amps. They won't replace your regular amp, but they are inexpensive, and great for when you want to practice without disturbing others.

For example this one. I have an older model and I'm am happy with that. There are also other makers.

I use one of these when I want to jam and not bother anybody. Works pretty well, but haven't tried looping it into the pedals:

https://www.amazon.com/AP2BS-amPlug-Bass-Guitar-Headphone/dp/B00NAUKJTY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469472618&sr=8-1

I'm thinking about pulling the trigger on my first bass. Specifically, I'm looking at this Yamaha. From looking around on the subreddit, it seems like most people agree that it is quite good for the price. I just have one question about it if anyone happens to know: the model name listed on the sites ends in a Y (RBX170Y), where most instance of the model name I've seen elsewhere don't have it. Does that mean this is a different version of that bass? Maybe a lower quality one somehow (I know places like Walmart will do something similar where they sell a TV or whatever with a slightly different model name that is inferior, which is why I'm worried).

A second question, I wanted to be polite to the other members of my household, so I was thinking of getting a headphone amp. Do these work well enough for just practicing on my own? I figure that's all I'll be doing for awhile.

I don't have one myself, but a friend loves his:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAUKJTY/

Something like this is what you're looking for.

Hi, there is some advice in the FAQ article:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Bass/wiki/faq#wiki_getting_started

I live in a house with lots of neighbours, so I use one of these headphone amps:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/amPlug2-AP2-BS-Headphone-Amplifier-Rhythms/dp/B00NAUKJTY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=vox+amplug+bass&qid=1570555595&sr=8-3

That way I can plug my ipod into it as well as my headphones, and play along to my favourite songs without disturbing anyone.

If you don't want to buy an amp then you will find that it's hard to hear what you are playing, and also you will tend to play harder and not notice certain mistakes, like bad muting. Not impossible but I would definitely recommend to get some sort of amp, or interface to plug your guitar into your computer.

Non-mobile: This is version 2

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

I get this problem, because I like to run my Aguilar head without a cab into my mixer or audio interface and plug the headphones in there. At least, that's how I can practice silently with some reasonable sense of my tone, since that's the head I play through live. I usually run my pedals on this setup, too, so that's more gear I'm tied to / tangled up in.

When I'm focused on running sets, though, and only worried about my hands (and not so much the guitar's controls or my amp tone) I use a vox amplug. It's the v2 bass model, if anyone is interested, I've recommended / discussed it in this sub before. The tone is acceptable, but the real benefit is that this battery powered unit plugs into the bass, and my headphones into it - no other gear required. So I'm only tethered to the instrument and not to the board or my amp head. Plus it's cheap and the battery life is pretty darn good. The tone and beats to play along with aren't really for me, but might suit some players.

At least, that's what works for me.

http://www.amazon.com/Mybecca-Acoustic-Soundproofing-12-12-Inch/dp/B00TP7C9YY

You'll want to insulate. Heat isn't really an issue so much as the extreme cold, condensation, and humidity.

Here is something you might try. It's 12 pieces of 1'x1' sound proof foam padding. It's not full insulation but it might do the job and it has the added benefit of making the room quieter.

12 Pack Acoustic Panels Studio Foam Wedges 1" X 12" X 12" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TP7C9YY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_t7zuybZD3PNBA

I'm currently looking at this for sound proofing material for my server area.

No problem. You also may want some acoustic foam around your recording area, like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TP7C9YY/ref=pd_aw_lpo_267_bs_img_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DKFBYPREFAA84ZEKF401 , or this works really good as well https://www.kaoticaeyeball.com/ . If you want a more expensive set up, you can get these professional Studio standard speakers https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HHZUTQQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1500445723&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=krk+rokit&dpPl=1&dpID=41i5K-Wru6L&ref=plSrch and these monitor headphones https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HVLUR86/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1500445753&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=monitor+headphones . Good luck with the recording man, hope this helps!

I don't mind noisy if I can get away from it, I just mind if I can't get away from it. I'm terrified of more tinnitus or hearing damage. Yes I was using earplugs and it was still loud. Firecrackers/guns (120db+) are one of the loudest/dangerous things you can do. I was 4 floors up with windows closed, so I can't even imagine the amount of hearing damage people below and closer would have gotten. I think it's stupid and inconsiderate to babies, kids, and young people who don't know any better, but I've already learned from past experiences that society isn't educated or doesn't care enough to take hearing as seriously as eyesight. I'm a minority.

Can you give me a location of where I can do/buy custom molded ear plugs/window noise blocking material in Taipei?

Where in Taipei is it quieter, as Taipower Building Station area is supposed to be quietest. I was thinking of moving near Tonghua Nightmarket xinyianhe or a place many floors high, does it have firecrackers and parade events too?

I will buy these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TP7C9YY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A22SRM5AZO37HA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IHUNLT2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1O44Z2C3OZAM9

side question: if I order a bunch of stuff off of USA Amazon, will they call me when the package comes and leave try again if no one picks up the phone? I had a box shipped to me before, and it ended up on top of my neighbor's mailbox without me knowing.

Anyone tried complaining?: http://www.taiwanho.com/talk/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=3198

That chair tho. I like how sharp looking everything is. Also, if you are planning on recording videos or sounding very clear to your friends, I would suggest getting some echo cancelation sound panels. Like these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TP7C9YY/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1503332811&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Sound+panels&dpPl=1&dpID=51ozVnyFxRL&ref=plSrch . ALSO... PC MASTER RACE

some sort of electronics sound dampening foam like this should be good.

SilverStone 21-Inch x 15-Inch 4mm Thick 2-Piece Sound Dampening Acoustic EP0M Silent Foam SF01 (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040JHMH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_iLySKYiAMxu2s

Mostly I spent a lot of time on experimenting with the drivers and cups, I settled with some kind of home-made "DYI" Lawton mod, like this.


It tightened up the sound of X00 so much, bass and mids are separate things suddenly, every detail stands out much more now, very enjoyable and worth doing imo. Next up was a combination of attenuation rings under the pads and rotation the original foam around the drivers. I've tried many more things than that, but I settled on those since in this case, "less is more" and new wooden cups + foam on the drivers really makes these shine. The rest is just to correct the tonality. If someone wants a darker sound, they can place a thin piece of felt directly over the speakers, tho I prefer it without it :) (felt over the driver also tames the sibilance but makes the sound less airy which I dislike)

EDIT: In case you're wondering, I used this foam for the driver mod. Amazon link here

Sound Review:

First let me say that the best way to describe them is to say they are nothing like my HD650s. Really if the HD650s are dead north, these are dead south. They have pronounced mids and highs, small bass, but they are exceptionally clear. You hear details that simply did not exist before. They take quite a bit of power to drive (the OTL wouldn't drive them properly). Anyone should be able to build these for less than $200. I would say that at that price point these are a great value. I dont know that these will be my go to headphone, but they are definitely different than anything I have ever used before.

EDIT: Do not use self adhesive felt on the drivers, get non adhesive stiff back from Michael's or similar. This will give you nice strong bass, with excellent extension. These bad boys sound amazing now. Now if I could just get the pads to stay on better...

Information:
Original thread.

Stuff to buy:
Fostex T50RP
Sticky Stiff Felt
Modeling Clay
Shure Replacement Pads
Double Sided Scrapbook Tape
Silverstone Audio Block

Lots of folks do this - no danger so long as you’re using an appropriate material. I’ve written at length on this in the past, but he short answer is that it becomes truly helpful in two conditions:

1 - the material is sufficiently designed to absorb sound.

2 - the material is thick enough to make contact with the PCB, allowing a direct transfer of acoustics.

I have personally always used Dynamat, and it does an amazing job. It’s thick enough to touch your PCB, but thin and compressive enough that it won’t damage any components. Another more cost-effective solution is using SilverStone silencing foam. I haven’t personally used it, but I have personally typed on boards using it, and it’s still pretty good, for half the price.

Lots of people use budget options as well, like shelf liner and things like that. All of them are better than nothing, but if you’re not using the correct material, you’re really not doing a whole lot to truly absorb sound and migrate the issue. I’ve touched plenty of boards that have only gone halfway with silencing, and the difference to me is super apparent.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040JHMH6/ref=crt_ewc_img_huc_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
heard good things about it

Absolutely, and I don't think it would look bad with black pads on white headphones personally.

Here are the ones I bought. They took a little effort to put on there, but are very snug and don't move around. (The amazon picture isn't correct, as it looks like they are the plastic/leather pads, but what you get is the velour) http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016MF7W2/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These Shure pads apparently work as well, although I don't have any experience with them. Looking at the reviews they seem like they fit a little bit looser and can freely spin a little bit. http://smile.amazon.com/Shure-HPAEC940-Replacement-Velour-Headphones/dp/B005OM06RG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395931310&sr=8-1&keywords=srh+840+velour

When I get home tonight, I can take some pictures of them on my M50's if you'd like. I love them and well worth the $20 I say.

The Shure earpads (https://www.amazon.com/Shure-HPAEC940-Replacement-Velour-Headphones/dp/B005OM06RG) fit on the MH50X, got those, so comfy!

Well done. The leather pads didn't last too long. I got myself these to replace them.

FYI the atr2005 mic is 100x better (Is USB and XLR, sounds better, smaller and cuts out back ground noise) and its $10 cheaper! https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2005USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B007JX8O0Y/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1499790415&sr=8-10&keywords=audio+technica+atr2100

PS. there is also the atr2100 which is even cheaper at $69

Hey!
A bit about me before I go on a rant: I'm a professional podcaster. Spoken audio is how I make my living. I've used and tried just about every popular microphone/preamp (XLR & USB) up to about $500 (and quite a few over $500). So to start, what routes CAN you take (you kind of highlighted your options a bit, but I'd like to expand on them).

1. A new headset microphone. Simple. Look HyperX Cloud II or a nice Sennheiser set. They've got really good gaming headset microphones (but very few if any headset microphones are going to sound better than a "real" microphone), and you wont need any extra equipment. The downside is your audio quality will only ever be adequate and the quality of your headphones is tied to the audio quality of your microphone.
   
2. A USB microphone. This is the compromise most streamers make. With a USB-only microphone, the DAC (Digital-to-Analog Converter) is built into the microphone. DACs typically do two things 1. Convert the signal and 2. Add/reduce/maintain quality. For example, a USB > XLR converter box is $5 on Amazon, but the sound degradation is night and day worse than what you would get from a more serious DAC like a Scarlett Solo or something similar. With a USB microphone, the DAC is built into the microphone itself. Generally speaking, a separate DAC is going to have superior sound quality to an integrated one (in the same way an integrated GPU is almost always worse than a dedicated one) - but there are exceptions, and at the lower price ranges the differences are generally minimal. If you go with a USB microphone, I personally would suggest you skip over the Yeti. The Yeti is a FINE sounding microphone, but it has a LOUD noise floor meaning that computer fans, A/C units, and just about anything else that makes noise will be picked up by that microphone without laying on effects. In the Yeti's favor, it's a REALLY cool looking microphone - but it definitely doesn't punch at or above its weight in sound quality. Again, you can make a Yeti sound good if you have the right room or the technical ability to add a noise gate, EQ, compressor, etc, but it's a lot of extra work. I'll talk about recommendations in a second.
   
3. An XLR microphone. This is the "long-term" play. However, MOST XLR microphones are going to have minimal superior sound quality until you get to microphones at about $250+. With an XLR microphone you'll also need a DAC. A decent DAC (that outperforms the built in DAC of a USB microphone) is generally going to run near the $100 range. Meaning that for your microphone, boom stand, pop filter, and shockmount, you're tied to $150 to stay in your price range. The upside is, it's unlikely you'll need to replace your DAC anytime soon unless you grow into really expensive microphones.
   
    
   
   Types of Microphones:
   

• Condenser: Condenser microphones are generally the most popular on the Twitch streaming community but, in my opinion, they shouldn't be used in most cases. Condenser microphones tend to have loud noise floors and require a room to be treated. They also generally have worse angle rejection (ideally, your microphone isn't catch noise to the side and behind the microphone).
  

2. Broadcast microphone. This is my recommendation. You can lose some of the "shiny-ness" of a condenser microphone, but in most cases it's not noticeably relevant. Comparing ~$250 budget microphones aren't going to have incredibly different frequency responses (again, exceptions apply).
   Recommendations:
   
3. An XLR/USB hybrid microphone - Broadcast: The Audio-Technica AT2005USB is a microphone that has both XLR and USB. Meaning you can start out with USB, get the right equipment with a boom arm/shock mount/pop filter and down the road get an audio interface (DAC) to add some quality to the microphone. The only downside? The microphone isn't especially cool to look at.
   
4. A USB-only microphone. The Audio Technica ATR2100-USB is essentially the same as the 2005, but doesn't have XLR. You save $15. This article is a great source on some dynamic microphones to take a look at.
   
5. An XLR-only microphone. This is the long-term play, but not a bad one. If you see yourself wanting to upgrade microphones and change out gear down the road, this may be the most viable option. You picked a good microphone in the AT2035, but a mediocre DAC (for reasons I discussed earlier).
   
6. Headset: Sennheiser or HyperX Cloud II. Do some research and watch some reviews.
   
    
   
   Sorry for the INCREDIBLY long-winded response. Microphones, for me, make or break streams and just because it's "analog" or "looks cool" doesn't mean that it'll perform well. I also want to add an additional shout out to using a Podfarm or OBS's VST plugins to highlight your voice. Using a microphone "dry" is rarely (if ever) the best way to get the best out of that microphone. Adding simple effects can be the difference maker between making a $50 microphone sound like a $500 one and a $500 one sound like a $50 microphone. Cheers and good luck!

1x Zoom H6 (https://www.amazon.com/Zoom-H6-Six-Track-Portable-Recorder/dp/B00DFU9BRK)

2x AT2005USB
(https://www.amazon.com/Technica-AT2005USB-Handheld-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B007JX8O0Y)

A condenser microphone is going to pick up mouse/keyboard sounds no matter how directional it is. I originally bought a Blue Yeti and was shocked by how much environmental noise it picks up, this is not a viable option for most people.

Instead what you should do is get a dynamic cardioid or supercardioid microphone. Not a lot of these exist with a USB connection but the ones that do work extremely well. I recommend the Audio Technica ATR2100-USB (alternative version) or the Samson Q1U if you can't find the AT, they're difficult to get in Europe for some reason.

Either of these will serve the purpose of the average streamer much better than the microphones you are recommending.

I use the AT2100USB and it works very well.

You should look in to Isoacoustic Speaker stands

I think they look cool and they'll separate the speaker from the desk top so you don't get any rattle.

They are ~$100 USD on Amazon

Grab a set of these: https://www.amazon.com/IsoAcoustics-1004209-ISO-L8R155-Medium-Pair/dp/B008GOP79G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468513586&sr=8-3&keywords=desktop+speaker+stands

They will prevent any vibrations from your bookshelf speakers from affecting your turntable. Also, you should really move the sub out of the cabinet, for the bass reasons people mentioned, and also for vibrations.

Sorry we are still jerks... We're just looking out for you! You're setup looks very nice...

I wish they were only $50 a pair as well https://www.amazon.com/IsoAcoustics-1004209-ISO-L8R155-Medium-Pair/dp/B008GOP79G

> bass isolation stands

Also very good suggestion here!
Placing an order for these: https://www.amazon.ca/IsoAcoustics-1004209-ISO-L8R155-Medium-Pair/dp/B008GOP79G/ref=as_li_ss_tl?tag=ehomrecstu-20&ie=UTF8&redirect=true&ref_=as_li_tl&linkCode=sl1&linkId=56ba6a5717c024ae9289da94836804a7

i saw a lot of praise for Iso Acoustics stands when i was looking for my stands, however i couldn't get past the negative reviews for build quality (plastic and rubber) and their cost, i'm also not a fan of how they look



I'm using these

they're well built and are rather heavy (cast iron) and have a fat rubber ring at the bottom, and they look good too, well at least in my opinion.

you could also buy stand plates that mount to the rubber feet (you're already using) for extra vibration absorption if you feel its necessary.


here's how they look mounted on my 8330A's


now having said all that i'm not going to recommend one over another since i never tried Iso Acoustics stands, have fun :p

Are these good? I think I've seen them mentioned before:
https://www.amazon.com/IsoAcoustics-1004209-ISO-L8R155-Medium-Pair/dp/B008GOP79G/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1482560963&sr=8-11&keywords=desktop+speaker+stand

Thanks!

BTW, do yoga blocks work well to bring it to ear level and then put some rubber on it for cheap budget?

I used a Yeti for the first few years of my channel. I loved it and got great results from it, however the background noise was a bit too much so I knew eventually I'd want to switch to a dynamic (or at least a much better condenser).

My suggestion to people is to get an ATR2100 ($64) to start with as a USB microphone. Then, when you've saved up money and decided to go the next step, purchase a USB mixer (I have this one ($80), or you could use this one ($60) which is only one channel and cheaper). There's a noticeable difference between the USB and XLR interfaces of the ATR2100. Some people even like the USB better, I don't, but then again I'm adding EQ and compression through the mixer which for me yields better results than software effects.

Get a USB mixer, like a Behringer Xenyx Q502USB. Fairly inexpensive, works well.

You can even run game/PC audio into the 2track so you can hear it and voice on headphones without the game audio going back out.

Pretty sure that's a Behringer Q502USB.

I used the older version of this for a while, and while it's not the greatest sound quality, it works and isn't too much money. It has the ability to plug into your computer so you can record.

No experience with this one, but it has decent reviews, is cheap, and would work for what you need with a little room to expand but no USB implementation.

And this is the one I'm currently using and really like. A lot of room to expand here. It has built in effects, but I don't think they sound very good. No USB either, but it's pretty cheap for what you're getting.

Take a look at the inputs on whichever one you decide on, as they may required some adapters (1/8" Stereo to 1/4" dual mono, etc...) to work with your setup. Let me know if you have any other questions.

You could get one of these and upgrade the stylus with one from LP Gear.

The LP Gear upgrade styli can be expensive though, so maybe you'd upgrade the stylus later on. I've put the AT92E on two different turntables and given them to friends, I've been very impressed by their performance.

Looks like a standard mount cartridge to me. Your current cartridge, if using original stock, is the JVC MD1055 which is a rebranded Audio Technica AT3600. The cheapest replacement stylus for this cartridge is the Pfanstiehl 4211-D6, which costs $7.89. The official Audio Technica replacement stylus, likely higher quality, would cost roughly $14 plus shipping. I personally use a Pfanstiehl stylus on an AT95e cartridge for records that I do not want to play with my nicer AT440MLa, and the sound quality is not bad especially considering it cost $8.

The cheapest full cartridge replacement, and keep in mind this is not optimal but will probably sound the best at this price range, is the Audio Technica AT92ECD.

It's a P-Mount plug-in type tonearm. It's missing the cart and the sidescrew that holds the cart in. Fortunately carts are relatively inexpensive. The Audio Technica AT-92E is a nice cart/stylus combo and relatively inexpensive at $25. It should also come with the sidescrew.

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT92ECD-Universal-Replacement-Cartridge/dp/B00006HO3L

This is thing though. Your talking about $40 for the table, $25 for the cart, $10 for a belt. Your now $75 into it and you don't know if it even works. That's also toward the top end of the value of this turntable, if not a little beyond. It's realistically a $25-30 turntable, especially in it's condition. If you were to get this from a shop, I would guess your looking at $65-70 with the new belt and cart installed and that would be with some kind of warranty.

nevermind4790 is right, the Sony is no go. The Sanyo on the other hand should be a great first or secondary table. I say this because I have a TP256 I found for free that I use as a secondary TT, and from what I can tell from a blurry manual pic off ebay, they look to be about the same. I can only assume the 356 has better specs? if it is the same as the 256, it's a pmount, so you're looking at about a 1.5g tracking force and an abilty to us a decent cart. At first glance the Sony appears to be a similar cheap plastic turntable but the Sanyo is better. Grab a http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT92ECD-Universal-Replacement-Cartridge/dp/B00006HO3L/ref=pd_sim_e_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0312ZAAS5T0Y504F8PHE and this is the belt I used... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GM2M9E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . I know it shows a really bad t-shirt, but I did receive a belt and it worked perfectly.

The positioning is pretty good. You could put some fairly cheap foam treatment up to the sides and behind them. It does help but not as much as proper treatment (which you can build yourself with house insulation if you wanted). The bass won't collect too badly there I wouldn't think. It'll be the opposite side of the room, particularly the corners.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AFHS-Pro-Acoustic-Studio-AFBT200/dp/B00I9W4C46/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494670446&sr=8-4&keywords=acoustic+treatment

This is what I have. It made more of a difference than expected with it just being the foam (experts aren't a fan of it). Bare in mind different brands vary wildly in their effectiveness.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AURALEX-ACOUSTICS-MOPAD-accessories-Speakers/dp/B0002D0B4K/ref=sr_1_6?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1494670577&sr=1-6&keywords=speaker+isolation+pads

This is the kind of thing I meant for the speakers though. Will stop them vibrating through the stand and affecting the sound. Spikes on the bottom of the stand help too. Apologies if you know all this!

A nice looking setup!

Your next step should probably be to isolate the speakers so they're not vibrating your table. These have always worked wonders for me in the studio I work at

Also, nice choice of keyboard (I have the 25) AND interface (I have the regular EIE and love it).

These should help a little bit, if you don’t have them already. Also, the less surface area your speakers have to the floor, the better - less surface for low freqs to travel through. Speaker stands on another soft material would help.

Then some bass traps and iso pads too. As mentioned bass is tough to isolate, but the more absorbing material the better.

I saw the comment about having her check it out, if it’s possible to hear it from their space that’d help your perspective too, and possible defense. I’m super sensitive to bass, and can sympathize with her, but have also had to deal with noisy neighbors with no solution. Just gotta deal with it.

Remember to put your monitors on stands or on a thick foam (Auralex makes some good stuff for a relatively cheap price) because if you don't, the low frequencies will travel through the surface and hit you faster than the higher ones, which will screw up your mix (frequencies won't be balanced).

As far as the talking bass goes, you can do some pretty nifty stuff with resampling so I hear, but I'm not a huge fan of it. Using a vocoder won't produce a dubstep-esque talking bass, but it'll resemble more of a robot no matter what your carrier signal is, unless you modulate the shit out of it. If you're doing it to make a name drop or some sort of robotic sentence, it should work but if you're trying to formulate a noise for the drop it'll be a little more challenging.

"Gaaarrrr!! you have to buy top of the line yamaha ones or you're stupid!"

"No I love my cheapie ones they sound so great!"

"You better get some isolation pads."

"I just mix on headphones, it works fine for me."

FWIW I went through a whole long discussion on this and ended up almost spending ~ $200 on these two things, but then I decided I should get something better if I'm going to bother buying monitors (I can't make a whole lot of noise currently so I was chopping for something small):

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MUXJCO/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002D0B4K/



I'll see it I can't dig up the old thread for you.

This is probably what's commonly known as ground loop. This is caused by electricity going in a loop within your setup. Crossing wires such as power wires and speaker wires, coming in and our of your wall socket, computer, and everything plugged in together, will cause this to happen and does not necessarily persist only within your blue yeti, especially because you mute it and it still happens. You may have introduced new wires or devices that brought more electricity into the mix, causing this ground loop. Best thing to do would be to unplug devices individually from your setup until it disappears, and then you'll know the culprit. This can be fixed by using a ground loop isolator (hum/noise isolator), or by painstakingly going through your setup to find the culprit, keeping wires as uncrossed as possible, and with a lot of luck.

I personally solved mine with 3 of these and possibly even this if it applies to you. Good luck

You've got a ground loop.

Look at your headphone jack, see how there's black rings separating the metal bits? (You'll have 2 or 3 depending on mono or stereo jack). One of those separations is the "ground". When you plug your headphones in the ground goes from your headphones into your jack, through the USB, and out the ground pin on your Xbox power brick. When you plug your amp in you're adding another ground path through your amp's cord, causing a ground loop, which adds the buzz you're hearing.

To solve your buzz, you need to get rid of one of the ground paths. There are many many ways to do this, but here's a few inexpensive ones.

1. http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-2-Channel-Hum-Destroyer/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394933322&sr=8-2&keywords=hum+eliminator place this before the input of your amp. This isolates ground that would come from the cord, eliminating the "loop". Your xbox is grounded, and so is your amp, but the unit prevents them from sharing each-other's ground path, eliminating the ground loop and the buzz.
   
   
2. http://www.amazon.com/45086-3-Prong-2-Prong-Electrical-Adapter/dp/B00166TT3G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394933411&sr=8-1&keywords=ground+lift buy one of these and plug your amp into this. The intended use of these is actually to give you ground where you don't have ground (you screw the little metal bit into the metal screw that holds your wall outlet), but we're not using it for that purpose. We're using it to remove the ground path from your amp. So make sure if you use this, don't let the metal loop touch other metal. You lifted ground from the amp, but it's okay because your amp is still grounded via your cable which is grounded through the Xbox.
   
   Keep in mind if you lift the ground and then unplug the amp from the Xbox you're playing with an ungrounded amp and are potentially in the danger zone.
   

Truthfully the in game sound is perfectly fine IMO and up to par with any DAW I've used, the difference is likely in what you're using to output the sound (the two 12" are going to sound a ton better than shitty macbook speakers or not amazing quality headphones).

That being said I'm splitting to the same exact amp for my setup with a behringer headphone amplifier and dehummer.

I've heard other people use tuning pedals or AB/Y pedals which may (probably) are a cheaper and better solution, but I can't personally speak to that.

The downside of this setup is that you're going to still need to keep your volume at 10 and your tone at 10 on your guitar for the best RS note detection.

I used one of these to fix it when I was using RCA.

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-Ultra-Compact-2-Channel-Destroyer/dp/B000KUD2G4

Your first point about getting a good mic is so true! I've seen way too many videos with some low quality, noisy recording and it's just not worth listening to. For my videos I either use my Sennheiser headset mic (although I don't like how loud my breathing sounds with that) or my Samson C01U which sounds fantastic.

I'd also recommend cleaning it up in something like Audacity to remove any static in the background.

Well, unfortunately you'll have to be a little more precise then that if you want any help !

Perhaps an audio snippet ? 10 seconds would be fine. So at least we can help you identify your main problem. Because "shitty" doesn't say a lot.

Is it noisy ? Too much room ambiance ? Distorted ?

If you plan on doing more than one video you might wanna invest in a cheap USB mic. Even a cheap one would be immensely greater than your built-in laptop mic. Something along these lines [http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000ULQTE0/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_2?pf_rd_p=485327511&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B002OO18NS&pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_r=1M1QN0HND2QM4NVBTNT8](Amazon link)

Yes but M50x is the top of the line that you should get. It's also the most stable and popular one out of all, the others are kinda the "little brothers" of M50x.

I have had my pair for 7 years now, not even the x version but the older one and they are superb.

Few things I'll say off the bat though: Buying SRH840 EARPADS and replace the default m50x's ones is going to change your life. They fit perfectly and the comfort is so much better.

I had to take off the m50x after an hour or so as my ears starts to hurt. Once I bought the 840 earpads I could have it on literally all day without even noticing it's there. Such a massive difference.

That being said, despite M50x being incredible and fucking amazing for the price you're paying, it's also designed for mixing use, so it might not have the biggest soundstage or listening experience. It's amazing for hearing details, and has a nice bass. But I think there could be, not sure, something out there that is more based around soundstage and a wider listening experience, maybe lacks more in details but gives you a better party going in your ears.

But at the very least I can confirm that M50X is better than any other MX with a lower number. My brother has a M30X and the 50 completely blows it out both in sound quality + comfort.

Fucking love my Shure-440's.
$90 right now

Also, get these if you can as they are way more comfortable

try replacing the pads. These are the ones I got www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Z9JWZS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The M50's are a low impedance set of headphones, I think it is 38 ohms. Now a lot of high end headphones have a high impedance, up to 600 ohms or more. What this means is for the same voltage output from your source, the higher impedance headphones will be more quiet. That is where the need for an amp comes from, to increase the voltage output to the higher impedance headphones to get louder music. Unless you are unhappy with the volume output of the headphones, don't bother with buying an amp. They also color the sound, which you may or may not like, but that's just a personal opinion.

I would suggest these for the M50's: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Z9JWZS/ref=oh_o03_s00_i08_details

Also, if you are worried about the long cord, get the coiled version. It's still something like 3 feet unstretched, but much shorter than the 9 feet I think the regular one is. And for getting a DAC, they only make them for iphones I believe, which is why they all have the iphone jack. Android doesn't support it quite yet, doing a google search turns up very little on the matter, but if it did it would use the USB on the phone. If you are talking about getting a DAC for your computer and if you are using onboard sound then I would suggest it. I noticed a marked improvement to my M50's when I upgraded my computer from onboard to a HT Omega Claro Halo XT sound card, I'm sure a nice DAC would do the same, many recommend them over internal sound cards like I purchased.

If you are making closed grills yourself, the easiest way would probably to buy a duplicate pair of grills and line them on the inside with dynamat or silverstone [acoustic foam] (http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-21-Inch-Dampening-Acoustic-SF01/dp/B0040JHMH6) or some similar material. Sure you will reduce sound leakage, and while this is tempting to try out, IMO I think this type of mod will kill the signature HD650 sound.

If you wanted to get more creative, try searching for "HD 650 woodies". The only commercial outlet I know for getting closed wooden hd 650 grills was [headphile] (http://www.headphile.com/page4.html), but I have no idea if they are still in business or not. I can tell you that some of the woody mods looked [ridiculous] (http://cdn-ak.f.st-hatena.com/images/fotolife/w/web123/20090930/20090930235259.jpg).

The bigger question is, why do you want to do this? IMO the open architecture is one of the highlights of the 650. I think that the listening experience is so enriched by the open design that a closed sound would be against everything that the 650 designer so skillfully built into the design, i.e. you will be building an abomination :-)

I've got an sl-6 and I just bought a digitrac 300se cartridge. Sounds fantastic, but it cost me around £90 off ebay. Before that though I had an Audio technica AT92E that sounded great.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Audio-Technica-AT-92ECD-P-MOUNT-CARTRIDGE/dp/B00006HO3L/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1394323487&sr=8-5&keywords=at+92e

The Audio Technica AT92ECD is very cheap ($20) P mount cartridge.

Do you have pics of the TT? These things were sold as p-mounts and with a standard headshell as well.

If you want a cheap p-mount cart, buy this:

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT92ECD-Universal-Replacement-Cartridge/dp/B00006HO3L/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466801314&sr=8-2&keywords=at+pmount+cartridge

I'd do that before buying a crappy replacement stylus for the cart you already have. It's pretty much the cheapest decent cart on the market right now AFAIK.

It's a P Mount cartridge with a 1/2 adapter. http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT92ECD-Universal-Replacement-Cartridge/dp/B00006HO3L

The cantilever (shaft) is bent so the stylus is ruined. That's a Sony cartridge and isn't very good anyway so just get a whole new cartridge. The Sony headshell should be fine but you can replace it with a Technics if you want for $20 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003DY5Q4K/. Under $50 budget cartridges that are good for the money:

$20 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006HO3L/

$35 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WYROYE0/

$40 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004NRVUMI/

Lastly, you can get a copy of the owners manual and service manual here if you create an account http://www.vinylengine.com/library/technics/sl-d2.shtml.

DIY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERkJnIiet0c
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-technica-AT-92ECD-Phono-Cartridge/dp/B00006HO3L?
Or
http://austinstereo.com/

That one works. I recommend spending a few bucks more on this one. http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT92ECD-Universal-Replacement-Cartridge/dp/B00006HO3L/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1452992495&sr=1-1&keywords=at92e

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Technics-SL-BD24-SL-BD25-SL-BD26-SL-BD27-Belt-READ-This-before-buying-ANY-belt-/180982479070

the first google result for "sl bd26 belt"

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT92ECD-Universal-Replacement-Cartridge/dp/B00006HO3L/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1452176010&sr=8-2&keywords=audio+technica+cartridge

Don't forget the isolation pads if you purchase those.

Neumann KH120s! i have those moniters haha they're bomb-ass titties.

get some Auralex isolation pads for that shit though, 40 bucks.

My thoughts exactly...

With $360 you can get
the updated version of these speakers + isolation pads + wires

Or buy some red speakers lol

I have, and can recommend, Auralex pads, which are available on Amazon and places like Sweetwater

Just make sure you get the right size for your monitors—I got the regular size for my KRK RP5G2s, but you would need the XLs for 8” monitors.

Oh no, you don't sound rude at all. I'm new to this. So far no skips, but I haven't cranked the volume to high. Is it just the vibrations that can cause issues? I know that the there are some monitor/speaker stands that can help with this, like these: http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-Monitor-Acoustic-Isolation-Charcoal/dp/B0002D0B4K

What do you think? Should I get free standing stands for them?

I have tower speakers on hardwood floors and use Auralex MoPads. These pads can take up to 100lbs so it’s should work with many of the towers. I haven’t tried angling the towers.

Thanks man, and I used https://www.amazon.com/Auralex-Acoustics-Acoustic-Isolation-Charcoal/dp/B0002D0B4K

I'm assuming this is happening because you're currently placing your speakers directly on the table (correct me if I'm wrong). What you can do is either place isolation pads underneath your speakers or put them on stands.

The latter option should eliminate most of the reflected sound you're hearing. The goal behind both of these methods is to angle the speakers towards your ears instead of the tabletop and reduce the amount of reflected soundwaves from the table to a minimum, which should improve stereo imaging and produce a more even frequency response.

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Microhd-Ultra-Compact-2-Channel-Destroyer/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501012781&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=Beginner+hum+destroyer

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-Ultra-Compact-2-Channel-Destroyer/dp/B000KUD2G4
put that before this:
https://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-Channel-Driver-Converter/dp/B01M0A124S/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=INSTALL+BAY+LINE+DRIVER&qid=1557134326&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-1-catcorr

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Microhd-Ultra-Compact-2-Channel-Destroyer/dp/B000KUD2G4

I had the same issue with my setup. I'm have two JBL LSR305s running to my onboard sound of my desktop. I would often get a high pitched hum anytime I moved my mouse or whenever I was in the main menu of a game. I ended up buying [this](http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-BEHRINGER-MICROHD/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_sc_1? ie=UTF8&qid=1418913249&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=Humm+destroyer), which completely eliminated the hum coming from the speakers. If this doesn't fix your issue, I'd recommend running an external DAC like others suggested.

Power conditioner, make sure the TS cable is nowhere near power cables (or perpendicular to them). If the noise gate plugin doesn't work, you could try hum destroyers.

Had the same problem, horrible noise coming from my JBL 305 when my GPU was under high load. Bought the Behringer HD400 and it eliminated the problem completely. I personally don't notice any loss in quality, it sounds better since there isn't any extra noise in the signal. I have my DAC/preamp going into the HD400 with 1/4"-1/4" jacks, and then 1/4"-XLR cables going to my speakers.

I had the same ground loop issue when I first got my monitors (also using scarlet interface). I stuck this ( https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-BEHRINGER-MICROHD/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526981643&sr=8-1&keywords=behringer+hd400 ) between interface and monitors and problem solved. Passive, two ins, two outs, basically a zero-gain transformer I think. Only around 30 euro too.

I had a very similar issue with my hs8 monitors and it turned out to be a ground loop problem. If you Google "ground loop speaker noise" you should find a ton of forums with people dealing with this. Since it only happens in one part of your house that's what makes me think it might be a bad ground somewhere in that circuit you're connecting to. For me what fixed my problems (and this fucking PLAGUED me for like 8 months) was just using this little guy: BEHRINGER MICROHD HD400
It's pretty cheap so might be worth a shot. This little box is the last part of my chain before it hits my monitors. But Google around for ground isolation problems and see what worked for other people as well. And also use a decent power strip for your monitors, not a chippy chappy old ass one you found stashed in your parents closet (we all havem).

Received mine today. Pretty sweet looper, but unfortunately I'm still getting some hum. It's definitely not anywhere near as bad as the Y-splitter, so that's a relief, but it's still bad enough that Rocksmith is picking up a "B" note whenever my guitar should be silent.. hmm. This seems like it's messing with note detection a bit, and (as with my Y-splitter) I end up having to unplug a cable during tuning to remove the hum, because otherwise I can't tune some of the high strings. Tried recalibrating, but no luck. I know it's not my guitar, because the hum still exists even when my guitar is unplugged, as long as the Rocksmith cable is plugged into the looper.

I did some googling for "Rocksmith hum" and found some recommendations for this $25 hum remover, so I'm considering that. After reading the other posts, I was thinking there'd be no hum at all even without the hum remover.. oh well.

Other than that, though, it's a great pedal. Lots of nice features, and the ability to transfer your recordings from your pedal to your PC over USB is great. Definitely a worthwhile purchase even in light of the hum issue when used with Rocksmith.

My gaming machine is a 6700K, 1080ti.

My streaming machine is a 2700x with a 1070.

My capture card is Avermedia 4k: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DHSZC4K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My mixer is this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039PPW60/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have an AT2035 for a mic.

From there it's just an xlr cord, a couple 1/4 to 3.5mm cord to hook to my gaming computer.

I have two https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KUD2G4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to keep the hum away that might happen.

This little hum destroyer can probably take care of that. I started getting hum like that a while back on a split signal that ended when I added it.

Die Dinger haben halt nicht den besten Klasse-D-Verstärker, daher gibt es ein hohes Grundrauschen. Ich habe je 2xLSR305 und 2xKS Digital D80 mit dem Teil ausgestattet, jetzt nimmt man das Rauschen nur mehr <30cm wahr: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B000KUD2G4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gibt sicher Alternativen, aber da kann ich sagen, dass es funktioniert. Andere steckt man einfach dazwischen, genau.

Interesting, I'll add it to my shortlist, thanks man

How do you think it would compare to this other Samson?

I hear the Samson C01U is pretty good for podcasting & broadcasting. A twitch streamer I like uses the Shure SM7B, and I think it sounds pretty good.

At that price range your options are pretty limited, but I'd say get something along the lines of this USB mic - it comes with a cut-down version of Sonar, which is a reasonable DAW. You'll also be needing a mic stand and a pop shield (by no means forget this - it's cheap but super-important!). If you decide to upgrade your setup after that, or want to wait and expand your budget a bit, feel free to PM me.

You can get a USB podcast mic on amazon for around £50. I believe the best one is a Samson COU1A or something. I'll look about and try and clarify the name...

EDIT: It's a Samson CO1U

Microphone - Samson C01U

Stand - Scissor Boom Stand

Pop Filter - Samson SAPS01

Shock Mount - Samson SP01

I did a ton of reading up on this before making the purchase and I'm really happy with it. It's the Samson CO1U and I'd suggest getting a pop filter for it as well. I've never had any complaints about voice quality with it. You can get just the mic for a good bit cheaper, but I think the kit with the shockmount and stand is worth the extra money. Been considering a boom for it just to free up desk space since it has a pretty large footprint, but it's been more than fine without one.

Better buy quality than some half-ass bs

http://www.amazon.com/Samson-CO1U-USB-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B000PTF0E2

This one is AMAZING: http://www.amazon.com/CAD-U1-Dynamic-Recording-Microphone/dp/B000ULQTE0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406167261&sr=8-1&keywords=cad+u1+mic I suggest you buy the black one as it seems to record better than the other.

CAD U1 dynamic usb mic for 28 usd :
https://www.amazon.com/CAD-U1-Dynamic-Recording-Microphone/dp/B000ULQTE0
It is what I started to use yesterday. It can be seen in my The Evil Within gameplay

What about the CAD U1 $24 on Amazon

Best bet would probably be something like a CAD U1. Cheap, but actually a solid USB mic for its cost. It will definitely suit the needs of a 10-year-old.

When it comes to budget mics, I swear by CAD. My first non-webcam mic was a CAD U37 (runs about $45 US), and it was the mic I used until I had about 50k subscribers on Youtube. I even still use it from time to time when I'm traveling or something and I can't take my bulky, complicated XLR setup with me.

Alright, well I found this one for a couple dollars more. I listened to some voice tests on YouTube and it seems much better then the other one.

I'd highly recommend saving up $20 or so for a CAD U1, used rock band mic, or similar. Audio quality is a major part of what your product is when you make a let's play. Even this first upgrade will likely make an immense difference in your quality.

You definitely want to go for a dynamic microphone. Don't let anyone talk you into a condenser, they are GREAT for recording but will pick up every bit of background noise you have.

If you can spring a few more bucks, you really can't go wrong with the ATR2100.

I've never used this one, but the CAD U1 should definitely be sufficient for your needs.

I would highly recommend a scissor boom mount to get the microphone off the desk. It will help isolate from keystroke and mouse noise, and keep people from hearing a thump if you bump into your desk.

I like the CAD U1. It's the microphone I'm using in this expository video, so you can use that to judge quality.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ULQTE0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 is the best microphone I have found for a more then reasonable price point.

The set up we use on my show is 100 percent free. We spawn a free mumbke server using guildbit which lets you record audio (which we us as back up) while working as a way to take to each other remotely. Then we each record a separate audio stream using Audacity (free) and upload that file to drop box (free) where one of us combines and edits the audio.

I bought these they're a little loose but so much better than the stock ones.

Here is the amazon link for the Shure pads:

https://www.amazon.com/Shure-HPAEC840-Replacement-Cushions-Headphones/dp/B002Z9JWZS

In terms of taking off the ear pads and putting on new ones, it is very simple and takes a minute or two. The hard part is finding replacement pads that are comfortable and don't change the sound too much. I had to return the Brainwavz sheepskin because they changed the sound of all my headphones. They turned the ATH-M50x into bass cannons so I don't recommend them.

I had the ATH-M50's before as well, and I would hold on to them actually, just read this if you would like some more comfort: http://www.ign.com/boards/threads/changed-the-ear-pads-on-my-audio-technica-ath-m50-highly-recommended-pics.454402957/

TLDR version: Replace the M50 pads with these

I have the original M50 (same as M50X, without the detachable cable), and while they're great, they get uncomfortable after a while, as the earpads are a little too small, and tend to get warm very quickly.

I grabbed the Shure SRH-840 Replacement Earpads and swapped out the original earpads from the ATH-M50 with these, amazing world of difference. I can now wear the M50 for more than 2 hours without any ear fatigue. Highly recommend. There's a velour option too for the earpads if that's your thing. Sound signature between these and original M50 earpads is nearly the same, maybe 1-5% sound leakage, but leads to a more open sound.

I've used headsets for years, and have a blue yeti mic from 5 years ago. I went through 5 headsets... On the other hand my White Audio-Technica ath-m50 which I used daily with a amp for about 2 1/2 years and going. Right now the max you would be spending on this combo would be $250.

I didn't use my headphones for gaming because at first, I didn't think my Ath-m50s would sound as good as 7.1 virtual surround sound software for headsets. I thought since they were for gaming they would sound better than using headphones. After my gamecom 780 broke, I just started using my ath-m50 and it blew headsets out the water. Headsets have an irritating constant buzzing noise from their virtual surround sound. I noticed it mostly in logitech g930s and dampened in gamecom 780. Don't get headsets ever, I have spent about $450 on headsets...

As far as headphones I have right now (used with music and amp):

Sennheiser HD 598

2x White Audio-Technica ath-m50

I would go with what will last long and Sennheiser HD 598 or Audio-Technica ath-m50 headphones would be my choice.

Headsets that have broke:

Turtle Beaches x31(1 year use)

Tritton surround sound headset(6 months)

2 Logitech g930(1 year use each, but a lot of problems kept happening)

gamecom 780(1 1/2 year use with epoxy on the hinge cracks)


Also a $12 upgrade for people not saying ath-m50s are comfortable, Shure HPAEC840 Replacement Ear Cushions

Here's the ones I have

One main issue is that most headphones/earphones have loud spikes along the frequency response. The ear and brain has a curve called the equal-loudness contour that defines how loud sound has to be to be perceived at an equal level. The problem is 99% of headphones don't follow this, and have certain frequencies at which they are upwards of 30db louder than at others.

This causes a big problem where at even a normal volume level, that one area is super loud, and most people don't notice because across the whole spectrum, the average loudness level seems normal. That is why you can ear the snare hits or clicks across the bus, but not the other frequencies. Unfortunately it is also at high frequencies that hearing damage happens more readily.

A pair of affordable headphones that most accurately matches the ear's equal loudness contour is the Superlux HD 681. You can buy them from ebay or amazon for $50 or under:

Superlux HD 681 on Amazon

Make sure you get the HD 681 and not the 681 EVO. This company is little known because they mostly make recording microphones. Coincidentally these cheap headphones are preferred by artists and recording mixers/engineers over thousand dollar headphones because of the clarity/quality due to this reason. Their sound signature matches the ears equal-loudness contour. THEY SOUND AMAZING because superlux actually knows how to design headphones for quality rather than looks. This is not a subjective claim - this is the objective reason behind why they sound good. You might want to also get the ear cushions called HPAEC840 for best comfort.

In theory headphones designed like these sound objectively perfect and will not create holes in your ear's hearing response because they won't damage small areas without you realizing. You can have the volume higher without unnoticeably feeding your ears sounds that are 30db higher.

Still, listen to music quieter and discover that the level you listen to is actually creating distortion. At a level most people deem normal, it is actually loud enough to cause your ears to engage mechanisms to dampen sound to protect themselves. Most people don't feel the mild ear pain and significant distortion that comes when you have sound over 90db, because they're just used to it.

Some people haven't damaged their ears and have also psychologically preserved their sound sensitivity by not raping it with distorted noise, and will continue to be able to hear as well as notice a pin drop until they're 100 years old.

Shure HPAEC840 replacement ear pads Can work... little loose, less base with tingier treble but It does the job. You can also get the some of the brainwavez ear pads but it does kinda make the sound less enjoyable. To fix this you’ll have to get some kind of low density foam that fits the earcups... I can’t provide link since it’s unknown to me where to get it. But both options are ok. But better with the foam padding in the ear cup

Changes:

-Pads to Shure 840

-Headband to Sennheiser HD600 using Velcro

-Cable to Audio Technica Short Black Cable for M series

I bought this, should be here Friday. I'm putting it in my KUL, will update if it resolves the horrendous ping.

Either Filco or Leopold do this with their stock boards. You cut out a piece of material, like shelf liner/pc case soundproofing/sorbothane, and line the inside of the case with it. It reduces the resonance that metal cases accentuate when bottoming out. Leads to a deeper and more solid sound. Im going to try this, I've never seen anyone use it here so we'll so how it works out.

Yep, that rear venting - [under the black felt square in this picture] (http://cdn.innerfidelity.com/images/Fostex_T50RPMk3_photo_CompareCapsuleInside.jpg), from an inside perspective - plays a large role in T50RP bass response.

Tape's the easiest, most-reversible way. You might do permanent sealing at some point, but for the moment, temporary and functional is good for experimenting.

You get acoustic foam [by buying it] (http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-21-Inch-Dampening-Acoustic-SF01/dp/B0040JHMH6), typically, though I'm not one to intrude in another man's affairs :P

No worries, I'm here to help - I remember being new, and I'd like to help new folks along.

When I assemble my keyboards I put sound dampening material between the plate and the pcb. This is perfect

This is what you need

https://www.amazon.com/InnoGear-Condenser-Microphone-Recording-Equipment/dp/B00KAPGLQC

Innogear 1- Channel 48V Phantom Power Supply with Adapter for Any Condenser Microphone Music Recording Equipment https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAPGLQC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_aIyUub0Z27YT3

Here's an inline supply for $20 on Amazon.

Maybe if your computer's power supply had an isolated 48 volt tap, you could, but you aren't getting that from USB or anywhere else. Most people have some sort of interface that can supply phantom power.

EDIT: or you could get this?
https://www.amazon.com/InnoGear-Condenser-Microphone-Recording-Equipment/dp/B00KAPGLQC?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ffsb-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00KAPGLQC

I put together a nice but budget XLR setup last year and this $18 phantom power source has been working great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAPGLQC/

These would work very well for you. They are powered speakers so all you need to do is connect them to your tv with a cable and enjoy.

https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR4-Pair-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4O/

Here's a few solid choices:

Presonus 3.5"

Mackie 3" (I have these and love them, though I kind of wish I got the 4" version)

Mackie 4"

Also keep in mind there is a bluetooth version of each of the Mackie's if that appeals to you. Mackie's customer service was good to me too. My CR3's started going out randomly around the time the 1-year warranty was about to expire and they sent me new ones for free. I've had the new ones for over a year and they're still going strong.

Big fan of the Mackie CR4 desktop monitors. Very affordable, pretty detailed, only complaint is the bass is a bit more quantity over quality but it kicks the ass out of any cheap computer speakers out there. Headphone-wise, currently only own Sennheiser HD 595s for that nice, warm neutral sound and Etymotic HF5s for on the go.

Mackie CR4
http://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR4-Pair-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4O

Here's a menu for you: budget, modest, and fun!

If you are talking about this Vizio model, then it will be adequate. Vizio also sells it with a wireless subwoofer and two wired surrounds for $230.

If you want true bookshelf speakers (much better quality sound), you can get these Micca's for $120 or these Mackie's for $150. Those are powered monitors, meaning they have an amp inside so you just plug and play (you need speaker wire to connect the two speakers together). It also allows future upgradability to a subwoofer if you use RCA splitters from the tv. These will sound much better than any soundbar in the price range and will give you better stereo seperarion. However, if you want sub-bass (bass you feel), you will need a subwoofer. So, you could always get one down the road.

To summarize:

A. $150 for better than tv speakers.

B. $230 for decent 5.1 .

C. ~$120-$150 for much better than tv speakers. Subwoofer addition also possible.

EDIT: If you normally have people sitting at a large angle from the tv (say 45° and lower, 90° being directly in front), the soundbar option is more suited for that, as it has a center channel speaker (stereo would have dialogue coming from both, obviously, so if you are at an angle, the closer speaker will hit you sooner and louder).

You can also just buy powered speakers as such

A pair of studio monitors are what you probably want, they are bookshelf speakers so they're quite small, and they have a fairly flat output which is good for sound work and music.

Here's a good option, they are sold individually.

Cheaper option, these are a pair.

Bose are anything but flat, they modify the sound quite heavily so they're not that good for any kind of sound work or music.

Thanks! http://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR4-Pair-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454101203&sr=8-1&keywords=mackie+cr4

https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Solo-GENERATION-Interface/dp/B00MTXU2DG


this what i got- good starting point- watch the vid on the side- it's easy/portable.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/FOCUSRITE-SCARLETT-SOLO-Audio-interfaces/dp/B00MTXU2DG/ref=sr_1_cc_3?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1414323206&sr=1-3-catcorr&keywords=focusrite

this is an interface that does both digital to analog and analog to digital, but it is half the cost of the D1 and will sound as good. behringer dont make anything worth owning.

First, I'd like to point out that in your situation it would be redundant to run your mic through the mixer and then through another interface (unless your mixer has incredibly awesome pre-amps, which is something I'd argue most Behringer products lack).

If I were you, I'd ditch the $10 mic for a used SM58, and the Behringer usb mixer for a decent cheap interface like the PreSonus Audiobox, or if your budget permits, something from the Focusrite family.

That said, you may be able to increase your sound quality 10 fold just by upgrading the mic and leaving the XENYX. I don't have any experience with either of those products, but they are by brands I would warn any newcomer to steer clear from. Good luck!

If you enjoy acoustic style playing, I feel it can be beneficial to developing a better playing style as you branch out to electric. Acoustic guitars require a little more attention to finger placement and fretting technique. Mistakes are more noticeable and you can fix those problems early before they become bad habits. Electric guitars tend to "cover" those mistakes more easily with all the effects and distortion (once playing at a high level they become more noticeable again). Things like hitting extra strings, fretting a note that is dead, etc.

I definitely regret not learning more on an acoustic first. I jumped straight into electric and never really looked back.

As for gear and making the transition to electric, it depends on what you want to do with your guitar playing.

If you are going to just play and practice by yourself at home, I recommend at least researching amp simulator software for use on a PC and getting an affordable audio interface.

I recently bought a brand new Jackson 7-string guitar for $180 (it's actually not bad either was on sale), an audio interface for ~$75 (included free DAW software, was on sale as well), and purchased a large amp/cab/effects bundle on Revalver 4 for $100. I already had headphones and a PC. I also bought studio monitors but that's neither here nor there.

I know that's over your budget but you can try most amp sim software packages for free and you can buy the amps, cabs, and effects a la carte for pretty cheap prices (a few $ each). It unlocks a huge range of sounds and possibilities and you can learn the types of amps and sounds you like. If you ever want to buy a real amp/cab, then you have a direction you would like to go.

Just for comparison, by the time you buy a guitar, some floor pedals (can range from $50-100 each), and a practice amp (which may or may not sound good at this price level), you are probably over your $300 anyway. With the software/interface option, you can have like 15 amps, probably like 25 cabs, lots of microphone sims, and tons of effect pedals inside the software for like $350.

I'm into metal as well and I've found the high gain amps and sounds in Revalver to be pretty good. Different amp sims do certain things better than others.

Good luck on your journey

none of them need mic capability.
just plugging the mic in to the mic jack on the computer is fine.
unless you have a nice mic, which you would get a usb interface for.
the audio thru a mic input, is more based on the mic quality rather than the sound card quality.
usb interface: scarlet solo + mic: at2020 or usb mic at2500usb

yes! you want an USB audio interface rather than a mixer (a very common mistake people are making here)

affordable mixers have pretty cheap mic preamps in them, resulting a lot of unwanted noise. this is because mixers are used for live sound where it doesn't matter if there is lots of unwanted noise because there will be humming guitar amps and stuff overpowering the noise floor.

If using a mic at home rather than a bar, you want an interface, not a mixer. Let me know if you have more questions. here is a visual summary of the audio path (but you would just need the mic and interface, not that other fancy stuff).

I've personally never used that interface, so you'll have to rely on the Amazon reviews (or hopefully someone here has had experience with it). The preamp (what you plug the mic into), and the mic you use, determines the sound you're going to get. Again, you're gonna have to read the reviews. You're just starting off, so I wouldn't stress it too much. You'll get a better sound than just plugging a USB mic into your computer.

If I were in your position, with a small budget, I'd save up a bit more and buy this:

http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Solo-Compact-Interface/dp/B00MTXU2DG/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1452061607&sr=1-1&keywords=scarlett+solo

The Scarlett series, in my opinion, is the best in terms of budget audio interfaces. Their preamps, and the system, overall, is of great quality.


When you're ready for that mic - put enough together to buy sayyyy this:

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2020-Cardioid-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B0006H92QK/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1452061954&sr=1-1&keywords=Audio+Technica+AT2020

...and you got a good little startup.



The mic stand should fit pretty much any mic. It has both the clip, and a part to screw in the mic's shock mount (look up "shock mount").


I always recommend that you get warranty with your equipment, cause, you know...shit happens, so you should check if there're any music stores around that sell whatever you're interested in, and offer the warranty, as well.

Focusrite Scarlett solo and Reaper has a free trial that is really good.

http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Solo-Compact-Interface/dp/B00MTXU2DG

These are really nice for the price.

I have a Scarlett 6i6 but I started with a Scarlett Solo. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MTXU2DG/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687562&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B005OZE9SA&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=12Q6J7G6SP9P07ZC0HNZ . The Scarlett line seems to be the go-to interface for anyone not looking to spend $1k+.

For that mic, or any XLR mic, you will need an external preamp. That's why you can't use your motherboard's sound card and you need a USB sound card - just not like the one you linked. As you noted, the $5 one won't help you here.

They are more commonly called "audio interfaces," and here is a cheap example.

Alternatively, you can get a combination device - a microphone with USB out, which has a preamp built in, like this one.

More information on these basics can be found in the sidebar over there -->

OP this is what you want:
https://www.amazon.com/AP2AC-amPlug-AC30-Guitar-Headphone/dp/B00NAUHX1G

Hey, I`d totally recommend this https://www.amazon.ca/AP2AC-amPlug-AC30-Guitar-Headphone/dp/B00NAUHX1G/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=pocket+amp&qid=1563342201&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

They make ones that play different styles like metal or hard rock etc. and they have 4 or 5 different effect types you can switch between. I`ve had amps, solid state, tube, even pocket amps and I think the value of this thing is pretty much unparalleled! Good luck in your search my brother

If you want to save for the Yamaha or a Boss Katana then try one of these for headphones. $40 and I love mine. I got the AC30 and it’s just a blast. Then when you’ve got the money for something good, get something good. I have a cheap amp that I can’t stand. It’s just not worth it

https://www.amazon.com/AP2AC-amPlug-Guitar-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00NAUHX1G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=vox+headphone+amp&qid=1565598503&s=gateway&sprefix=vox+headp&sr=8-1

$40ish USD

Why not just buy one of those little amp plug things like this vox one

You can get a headphone amp for 40 dollars (or less). VOX AP2AC amPlug AC30 G2 Guitar Headphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAUHX1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SuK.ybR9VS9VJ

Also as far as the ukulele. If you can swing it, the risa stick is good. I've got one

Vox Amplug - $40

Or go find a Fender Mustang I on Craigslist for $40

Or buy a usb interface and play through your computer

Hello all. I'm new here.

this probably comes up all the time, but here goes:

I want to get a nice practice amp that sounds good on headphones. I currently use a VOX AC30 amplug with headphones and I plug my line in to it so I can play along with tracks on the iPhone. https://www.amazon.ca/AP2AC-amPlug-AC30-Guitar-Headphone/dp/B00NAUHX1G

I also have a Vox AD15VT, which I think is probably too much amp for me and sounds pretty bad on headphones.

What are your suggestions?

You can get a number of headphone amps for guitar for like $30-$40. Vox makes a good one, IMO.

Using your 3.5mm adapter and microphone input on PC with an amp sim will sound like garbage. A proper interface will cost nearly as much as the amp, and free amp sim software is decent but sometimes difficult to get working properly...and leaves you tethered to your PC.

Find either a battery powered amp or headphone amp like the one I linked below. That way you can play on headphones anywhere you like.

Do not just get a regular old headphone amp, those are meant for hifi not guitar. They'll give you flat, lifeless sound. The natural harmonic distortion of even a "clean" amp is part of a guitars sound. The amplifier is part of the instrument, without it you aren't playing electric guitar. So whatever you get, make sure it's actually acting as a guitar amp.


VOX AP2AC amPlug AC30 G2 Guitar Headphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAUHX1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uHSRzbGQ9P2V9

I use the vox amplug 2: https://www.amazon.com/AP2BS-amPlug-Guitar-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00NAUKJTY/

Its pretty good, has gain/tone settings, and has a built-in rhythm machine/metronome.

I picked up a used mint condition Ibanez SR500 after seeing it constantly recommended here.

I've been playing piano (poorly) for 30 years and always wanted to play bass.. so here we go.

My wife picked me up 2 books to start learning:

Hal Leonard Bass Method - Complete Edition: Books 1, 2 and 3 Bound Together in One Easy-to-Use Volume!

First 50 Songs You Should Play On Bass

I also picked up a Vox Bass headphone amp to practice while the kids are asleep.

Finally, my late grandfather played bass in many jazz bands, both electric and upright. My father still has all of his instruments. But I just inheirited his Polytone Brute Mini III amp.

So, I'm all set with equipment, now I just need to learn & practice!

I would like one of those Vox mini amp boxes:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAUKJTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_tWw9Bb945ZT9D

I don’t know all the tricks about amping a bass, but I use this and I love it! It’s perfect for my use in my apartment and I can bring it anywhere easily.

My brother gave me one of these for Christmas one year. Does exactly what you're looking for - you can put in headphones and use an aux cable with it and have your playing and audio from music coming through your headphones.

I am a new bass player, trying to learn more about the gear. I play with a passive ESP Bass through my Vox Headphone Amplifier for Bass Guitar with some old shitty Best Buy Sony head phones I got a couple years ago. I’m looking to get a bedroom practice amplifier with the hopes of one day both recording and playing in small bars with a thrash metal band.
I was thinking maybe the Fender Rumble Studio 40 am I looking in the right direction? This is just a hobby of mine I’m trying out, money isn’t really a concern, I just know I should most likely get a combo amp to practice in my room until I can work my way up and get something else.

https://www.amazon.ca/AP2BS-amPlug-Bass-Guitar-Headphone/dp/B00NAUKJTY

This is something on my wish list. Costs $50 on amazon prime

I'd recommend this instead, unless you need the extra outputs: http://www.amazon.com/AP2BS-amPlug-Bass-Guitar-Headphone/dp/B00NAUKJTY

Plugs straight into the bass so less cables and more portability (powered by 2x AAA), has a tone control, and even a built-in drum loop/metronome with its own volume/tempo control. The metronome tempo is controlled with the volume knob and there's no display so you can't really get a specific tempo, but it's certainly more functional than a regular headphone amp, and probably sounds better.

There's also these if you want to go a step further and put the amp into the headphones: http://www.amazon.com/VOX-AMPHONESBASS-Active-Amplifier-Headphones/dp/B009703PZG

Haven't tried them but the headphones are made by Audio Technica so they're probably decent.

A Vox Amplug may also be an option if you don't have any amps on hand, I have one myself and they're decent for the price, you plug it straight in and connect a set of headphones, or a speaker if you want

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NAUKJTY/

I'm looking at buying this for myself:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00NAUKJTY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1

Hopefully this link will work for you. You can find the treatments on Amazon for relatively cheap. Might be worth checking out

a lot of people put sound dampening foam up

https://smile.amazon.com/12-Pack-Acoustic-Panels-Soundproofing/dp/B00TP7C9YY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474590502&sr=8-2&keywords=noise+dampening+panels

stuff like that

How about using foam soundproofing to pad our walls to protect us from destroying our controllers and the HMD when getting close to a wall? Foam Acoustic Soundproofing for walls

I'm thinking about buying a bunch of these and or maybe the red and black ones... either going to put it up on the walls themselves, or am going to get some sort of peg board or lightweight wood or cardboard, attach them to that and lean it up against the wall with maybe a command strip or velcro attached at the top for security. If I do the board, I can make it longer and cover up the door handles for my closet door and such...

Save yourself some time and just snag up one of these reasonably priced homes!

No, in all seriousness, I'm in the process of a similar, but smaller (one room) project. I started with a couple of packs of these, which were half price a month ago; might be worth checking back.

From the reading I've done, it seems like in a basement, your priority would be soundproofing in the ceiling (I'd think the ground would do the job, otherwise), and sound treatment in your listening/tracking rooms. Getting rid of weird reflections, etc.

All the stuff I've read on proper soundproofing has one thing in common: space between the material and your wall surface. For instance, putting up curtains, or some sort of foam padding a few inches in from the actual walls, then filling that space with insulation, then raising the floor, filling the empty space with sand, then lowering the ceiling, basically building a room within a room.

I haven't personally sought this out, but apparently the Berkeley school of music has some of their class material available online for this sort of thing. (Edit: Sound treatment, in this case.. as mentioned, way different than soundproofing)

Sorry if there's not a ton of usable info in this, just excited for you and wanted to pass on whatever insight I've gained so far.

Good luck!

> automotive sound dampening. Not sure if it will help against such a high pitched sound.

Won't do a thing.

It will just reflect those high-frequency sounds. It works in your car (or in speaker boxes, etc) because it helps prevent the car's metal panels from transmitting low frequency rumble.

Good news is, foam panels (which are useless for low-frequency sound) will indeed block those high-frequency noises. Like this kind of thing: https://www.amazon.com/12-Acoustic-Panels-Studio-Wedges/dp/B00TP7C9YY

Won't be 100% effective unless you completely surround the TV somehow, but they will help.

Only problem is, I'm not sure how you'd actually apply these without blocking the TV's ventilation holes...

Some of these bad boys should help

​

https://www.amazon.com/12-Acoustic-Panels-Studio-Wedges/dp/B00TP7C9YY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542205750&sr=8-3&keywords=Acoustic+Wall+Panels

You wont be able to sound proof that (proofing and absorption are different things). You could try to hand a bunch of blankets and stuff to dampen the sound, stop it from bouncing all over the place. Amazon also has sound absorption panels you could try.


Also, just talk to your room mates about it, they might be into helping out with the stream or even helping maintain the channel for extended amounts of time, like streamer house or something.


If you are embarrassed because they hear you, you're going to have a rough go at it. Just be you and have fun.

I have done a couple of things to minimize the noise coming from my DS916+. First, I have it sitting on the middle shelf of one of these types of racks with another Mini-ITX server on the top shelf, a USFF server next to it, and a UPS on the bottom rack. I had thought it was part of the problem initially causing vibrations that caused increased noise so I endeavored to isolate the vibrations from the machines themselves. But I first started with the Velcro fix I found in another Synology thread here on Reddit. That actually helped quite a bit but I wanted to do more with the other devices so I bought some sound proofing foam on Amazon and cut individually sized portions for each device and placed the device on top of it. Overall I am pretty pleased with the reduction in noise. I can now here the drives themselves working which is a whole other issue but I did mitigate quite a bit of sound overall.

Good luck and hope this helps!

I made it using this acoustic foam, this PVC foam board, and this spray adhesive. Used the PCV foam board so I could double-side it with the foam and it was more sturdy than a piece of cardboard.

You could purchase some sound-absorbing foam to put on your wall, only like $15

Worse comes to worse: https://www.amazon.com/12-Pack-Acoustic-Panels-Studio/dp/B00TP7C9YY/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1481062230&sr=1-1&keywords=soundproof+foam

these bad boys are miracle workers, or if you need something a little less... "this is less a room than a recording studio" you can hang decorative curtains on the wall.

That is correct. I got them from amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TP7C9YY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487251347&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=sound+dampening+foam&dpPl=1&dpID=51ozVnyFxRL&ref=plSrch

Continuing the answer, /u/talbayne:

As mentioned above, XLR is a way to get super clear sound - more than USB.
The reason for this, is because the hardware converting the analog (actual) sound waves to digital input, called Analog-to-Digital-Convert (ADC), is better in a preamp, than inside the a usb-microphone... Or at least they used to be.

The ADC is actually just a small chip - or a part of a small chip - which are inside a regular computer chip. They have a number of input pins to register to register the sound from the actual microphone, as seen on this picture of a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 - the bigger, black chip, reading XMOS upside down.

16 of those small pins come from the first XLR-input, and 16 from the second. This is because it's a 16-bit preamp, which you can also see from this screenshot.

Now - these ADCs used to require quite a certain amount of power, but do no longer. They can now be powered by 5 volts (to convert to 48 volts) - the output of a USB-port. Or... at least some of them can, and quite a few of them do a pretty decent job.

----
Time for examples in the USB-section:

• The Røde NT-USB ($169) review.
  
  I have a friend who uses this, and I have a hard time not hearing it being just as good as my own microphone (longer down the list).
  
  
• Bill Dewees talks about the Apogee MiC 96k ($20).
  
  That man knows his shit - pro dude, who makes 4k a week doing voice over.
  
  
• The Excelvan BM-800 ($25) is in the opposite price range. How can this cheap thing work? Well, like the XLR-microphones it needs what's called phantom power, which is 48 volts - this comes pretty cheap ($20)... or you plug it into your desktop (laptop won't work, I've read).
  
  
• The Blue Snowball Ice ($45) being compared to a few others.
  
  This one is extremely popular with YouTubers - for a good reason.
  
  ----
  
  Well, that's all good and nice, but what about the XLR options?
  
  When you go XLR, you need a preamp, which provides the 48 volts I described before - also known as phantom power.
  
  If you'd asked one year ago I'd say 'get the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2', but that was what I knew worked.
  Today you have two other options (from the same company):
  
  
• Scarlett Solo - $99.
  
  I takes only one input - but you only have one microphone, right? It converts upto 24 bits (where as my own only goes to 16 bit).
  
  
• Scarlett 2i2 (gen 2) - $149.
  
  This takes two inputs, so when you plugin your guitar you get a separate channel for each... It is also 24 bit, where as my gen 1 is only 16 bit.
  
  Are there others? Yes - plenty, but I don't know them.
  
  -----
  
  So microphones with XLR?
  
  
• I have a Røde NT1 (as a kit) for $269.
  
  
• The Blue Yeti Pro ($245) are spoken of as the next step up from its little brother (USB-microphone, mentioned above).
  
  
  Steep price for a starter, right? Well, the sound from it is not too bad, and this is where you need to remember what I wrote in my previous post - Your clients want clear sound. You can get clear sound from the USB-devices as well, but there will still be some quality loss between them. Decide for yourself what you want, and how much you want to spend on it.
  This list can go on forever, but it's getting late right now, so I'll holdt that here.
  
  ----
  
  I talked about sound treatment, yes?
  
  
• /u/sureillrecordthat has a great YouTube channel, where he posted a "booth" to record in (hear the actual recording at about 13:03.
  
  
• If you don't have a walk-in closet, you can do as I already posted and make sure you cover the microphone from reflected sound waves.
  
  
• If that's not an option, put up cheap panels to absorb the sound waves. They work SO DAMN WELL.
  
  Best of luck with your adventure :)

For you, I'd recommend getting:

1. this
   
   
2. this
   
   
3. this
   
   
   This is actually the setup I started off with alongside a Rode-NT1KIT and there was no noticeable audio difference between a 2i2 and an xlr to 3.5mm cable with phantom power in the middle.

That X/Y mic is great for recording in stereo, but that would make for a weird listening experience I think. If it was all you had, then you'd make it work, maybe combine the L/R tracks into one Mono track so as to avoid being distracting, but since you're not intending to try that, I'll shut up about it.

You've got the right idea wanting ISO tracks of each speaker. Makes editing MUCH more effective. It's also SOP these days for stuff like this. (In the old days of analog recording up through even a few years ago, you wouldn't have the data-writing speeds or bandwidth to record 5 high-quality digital audio tracks to the same hard disk at the same time, so you'd have a dedicated mix engineer whose main job would be to constantly 'ride the faders' on the five people speaking so that the output was clean, clear, and easy to listen to. MAYBE you'd edit, but if you did, you did it with a razorblade and scotch tape. Post-processing was minimal compared to what a lot of folks do today as well. Especially for radio.)

ANYWAY. Forgive the wordsalad.

WAIT! More wordsalad: I should offer up a bit of a correction to my last message, too, because I was using cardioid/omni reasoning that would apply more to standard mics, not lavs. So I changed my mind. Go with omni :-). Reason: Because of how microphones get built, and how lavs are used, the 'dead zone' on the cardioid version would just...point at the floor. So. Not much in the way of rejection in any case. Plus, the more directional the mic, the more careful the speaker has to be not to move their head while they're talking, which is harder to remember than it sounds. With that in mind...

Movo LV4-C: Get these, I think. Maybe just buy one, test it to make sure it's not utter crap, and then buy the rest. There's a favorable comparison to MXL in the comments, and they have some of the best budget-mics I've used. They're never going to replace a lectrosonic or sennheiser or electrovoice or shure or or or...but they'll get you there if you don't have $2000 to spend on mics alone. And by the looks of it, the LV4-C mic may well be a copy of the MXL mic referenced, if not the exact same hardware with different branding. So, even better. Not a pro mic by many measures, but it'll do the job and be an improvement over nothing.

As for the rest:

Shure CVL: The adapter you'd need to run these costs a minimum of 20 bucks apiece. Doesn't justify the cost, plus: adapter. More stuff to forget, more stuff to break.

Behringer XM1800: These are probably ::choke:: fine? But You'd need stands and cables and also they probably don't sound any better than your laptop mic. So...they could work, and 80 bucks for six mics is just a ridiculous price. Couldn't hurt to try, I suppose. Still, with the lavs, as long as you affix them correctly, you'll have the least amount of stuff to worry about while you're recording.

Goliton Cardioid Lav: NO. No. Please just...not these ::Cries::. These would be WORSE than just screaming really loud and hoping your neighbors can hear and enjoy your show.

-----

If you do get the lavs, check out this pic of a 'Broadcast Loop' for an example of a good way to minimize cable noise and strain on the cable. (Although with a cheaper mic, I'd use a bigger loop than you see in the pic to avoid breaking the cable. You're not doing this on video are you?)

And for that 5th mic, the inline preamp /u/matgoebel doesn't actually supply phantom power, so it wouldn't work for your setup. Keeping it cheap, something like this might do the trick, but it's one more piece of kit.

So here's a question(s) to consider, in no particular order of importance:

• Will all five of you be recording all the time, every single session?
  
  
• Why did you decide on lavalier mics to begin with?
  
  
• Is finding a phantom power workaround really worth your time?
  
  If it is, then it is. But if it's not, you could always go the dynamic mic route, which means you wouldn't need phantom power on ANY channel, hell—even handheld would be fine if you don't want to mess with stands, just be careful to have some slack in the cable coming off the mic—don't let the mic support the weight of the cable. Those Behringer mics are worth a shot, although after listening around I think if you go that route you might want to check out these Behringer 8500s instead. They're a little meatier sounding, not quite as harsh, which I think you'd end up preferring in the long run. (Until you can afford THE VOICE OF GOD)
  
  EDIT: fixed my own stupid markup mistake.

Generally speaking, the more software you use, the more things can mess up when trying to link them into OBS. I personally never recommend software mixers just as they have a nasty habit of screwing up when live.

One thing I can't stress enough when it comes to audio, don't go too cheap! Fundamentally, you do have to spend a little bit to get a setup that works. An entry level audio setup will still set you back around $100.

For entry setups I'd recommend looking at the Neewer kits on Amazon. They do need a phantom power source too, yet they're still better than using a basic headset mic. From there, with them being all XLR based, you can use essentially any usb mixer you want. Behringer have a huge range of these with USB output to hook them into PC, starting around $40 too.

Condenser Microphones need power to function. The audio port on your motherboard does not give nearly enough. The microphone will work much better and be less noisy with more power. You can either use a USB sound card to give the mic 5V of power or get a 48V phantom power supply to maximize your performance.
I got this USB Soundcard and this Power Supply. I use both together and It sounds great. The microphone also works alright with just the USB card. hope it helps. p.s. I have the same mic.

(For tl;dr just look at the parts in bold)

I'm not the first nor will I be the last person to say this, but pretty much every brand is gonna be on this list. Personally, I've never had a large issue with any brand, nothing of the caliber to make me not buy from them again.

I feel that you should avoid certain products or product lines. Here are some things that I avoid/know of, for your consideration:

1. Gaming headsets are nearly always garbage. Get yourself a nice pair of headphones, and a separate microphone. Here's my setup. I use the products right below. They're all fantastic, I've been using them all since last summer, and am happy to answer any questions about them. I also know some good alternatives.
   

• Neewer NW-700 Mic ($31.99 on Amazon). Includes mic, cable, the adjustable boom mount and clamp
  
• Neewer NW-100 Phantom PSU ($18.99 on Amazon)
  
• Philips SHP9500S HiFi Precision Stereo Over-ear Headphones ($54.99 on
  Newegg)
  
  

2. In general, a cheaper product is more likely to be lesser quality. I know, this isn't true for every single product, but that's why you should always do your research on something before purchasing it, no matter what it is (tip for being a smart consumer).
   

• Example: Corsair's cheaper line of power supplies, the CX line, is of lower quality than their RX series. I've used both, and have had issues with neither, however I have heard of people having issues with the older CX series (it was revised, I think in 2015?). The RX series is more expensive than the CX series, but has higher quality components, and a higher effciency rating. Do your research.
  
  

3. Since it is the most controversial brand on the list: Razer is a very hit and miss company. I have had 3 of their mice: The Deathadder Chroma, the Lancehead, and currently the Basilisk. I loved the Deathadder, but I decided to upgrade when the Lancehead came out, after trying it at Best Buy (the wireless version). Ended up not liking the Lancehead after 6 months, it didn't fit my grip well (and wireless version has a more "premium" material that's super sleek, looks nice, but isn't grippy enough for my taste (their usual material is better). So I ordered the Basilisk off of their website right when it was released (October 2017), after doing a fair amount of research, and I love it. No issues with the mouse so far. The software used to control it, Razer Synapse 3.0, is still in development, so it's pretty broken right now (it's shit currently, forgets my profiles from time to time, but I only change sensitivity so it's not a big deal), however it doesn't look like gamery trash like 2.0 did, so it's an improvement. I also had an OG Black Widow with Cherry MX browns that I found at Goodwill - worked good as new, ended up selling it to a friend, he still has it, it still works - I think it's about 6 years old now. tl;dr not everything Razer makes is shit.
   
   
   
   The 1TB Western Digital Blue HDD is probably the most popular component that I have never heard critizism for.

having a separate audio recorder can make a big difference.
I might suggest something like a Zoom H4n or a Tascam DR60 either of these will allow you to have your audio recorder not tied to a laptop during filming.

I've recorded myself a bit with both budget and hi end mikes. I have used a Zoom H4n Pro ($219) portable recorder for a project I have with classical guitar improvisations. All the recordings are done either in living rooms or outdoors. There's no fx on the recordings, only a little bit of eq and compressor. Here's a link to these recordings on Spotify:

https://open.spotify.com/playlist/5XAY5a4uUdTP4EYave3ND3?si=AraITj7DQ8yUnF-Uk0t8wA

I also record original classical guitar compositions using expensive Schoeps mics (Collette stereo set w/Mk5 capsules), here's a solo guitar tune recorded with these mikes in a parallel configuration with added reverb:

https://open.spotify.com/track/4Nju2e1clXsp0SW0nycdM4?si=CtAFUNuFR0y_UpRpFzok-A

I happen to like the sound of the Zoom because it feels more "real" or "natural" to me. Like sitting in the room with the player. The good thing with doing recordings is, you'll have to practise getting less scratching. I get scratching all the time, but recording myself has helped me being aware of this and try to improve it. Same thing with playing, recording can help you improve because you'll probably start hearing what you'll need to practise when listening to your recordings.

Personally I don't like the sound of line/piezo much, but I guess it can sound more controlled and you'll probably get less scratching sounds as well. But budget mikes today can be great, I would do some experimenting with mic placement and maybe recording in different rooms if that's an option. Especially where you place the mic does make a huge difference, so I would advice to start with that. I like the sound of stereo recordings much better than mono also, it sounds more natural to me, and less honky.

Link to Zoom:
https://www.amazon.com/Zoom-H4N-Digital-Multitrack-Recorder/dp/B01DPOXS8I

​

Link to Schoeps:

https://schoeps.de/produkte/stereo/sets/stereo-set.html

get a Zoom recorder like H5 or H4n
($200) on amazon and bypass his crap, and tell him to his face why you bought it.

We use it on all our sessions/practices - handles high sound pressure great.
https://www.amazon.com/Zoom-H4N-Digital-Multitrack-Recorder/dp/B01DPOXS8I/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1525050448&sr=8-5&keywords=zoom

I've been glued to this subreddit since September soaking up all the information possible as the filming process began.



So we shot this with a Lumix GH5 with a 12mm-35mm lens. We had the camera on a JOBY GorillaPod but we couldn't get any sort of tape (Gaff, Duct etc) to get it to stick to the dashboard. So for the front angle we used the legs of the pod and hung it from the rear view mirror and shot the skit upside down. We put the lens on the widest setting and put it on auto focus.



For audio we used a Zoom H4n Pro. We placed it on a little stand resting on the center console on the 120 setting. All audio was captured on the day, none of it is ADR.



The biggest challenge in the edit bay was the fact that some takes we're done when the car was at a red light while some we're in motion. We had a 6 mile loop which we drove over and over and we just ran through the skit multiple times not really paying attention to whether we were moving or stopped. It was 48 minutes of footage cut down to 2:19 of actual skit.



As far as my involvement went, I co-wrote, acted, captured audio and edited the skit. I'm the guy in the blue shirt riding shotgun (Dane) for reference.




Would love any feedback, thoughts, or advice!

I'm assuming by "box" you mean audio interface.

If you're looking to be cost-efficient, I personally would suggest starting with an H4N Pro (or the cheaper non-Pro variant) and a mic such as the MXL 770. You'll also need an XLR cable.

The H4N, if you take care of it, will last you a long time and will give you many a good recording. It has built in mics, as well, and they are good quality, but external mics are typically better to have, if possible. However, if you're on a budget, you can easily use just the H4N and its built in mics without any issue, so long as you also get a windscreen. Be sure to have an SD card (I can't remember if it comes with one on its own as I purchased mine as part of a kit that came with a few accessories) as well, to record your files to.

https://www.amazon.com/Zoom-H4N-Digital-Multitrack-Recorder/dp/B01DPOXS8I

Stepping up the audio can have huge gains in quality, NTG and Deity shotguns are priced well, links above are a great start. Consider a portable recorder Zoom H4n Pro Handy Recorder https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01DPOXS8I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5zLPBb676ZPND so they can record dual system and not have to struggle to send XLR audio to a DSLR. Get a rode boom, and a shock mount too.

Some simple lighting can go a long way , Aputure are the bets bag for your buck right now. If you can spring for the 120D , there will be many more modifier options to control the light worth buying down the road, which will allow them to learn a lot from controlling light (a powerful skill).

When I first started out I scoured local shops for old manual Nikon lenses and picked up cheap adapters SODIAL(R) AF Confirm Lens Adapter For Nikon F AI AIS Lens to Canon EOS EF 5D 7D 600D DC192 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B074FRFTFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RHLPBb2YMTQJK to mount them to canon DSLRs. It opened up a lot of control of depth of field kit lenses simply didn’t have with such small apertures. I was able to find cheap Nikon glass for less than $50 on occasion from church sales and small shops and still shoot on then today :).

Have fun!

Edit: spelling

I don't tape but if I was to, I would use this

Sorry Lav microphone is a microphone you wear on your body somewhere, usually hidden under clothes or just on your collar. The Zoom H4N is a portable recorder https://www.amazon.com/Zoom-H4N-Digital-Multitrack-Recorder/dp/B01DPOXS8I/

https://www.amazon.com/Zoom-H4N-Digital-Multitrack-Recorder/dp/B01DPOXS8I/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=zoom+recorder&qid=1572900836&sr=8-4

Of course!!

It's a bit of an investment, but the equipment I used was the Zoom H4n Pro. Did some research and the Zoom H4n has been a standard for awhile- phenomenal device, and they recently put out an updated model (the Pro) which is identical save for some upgrades to the guts inside (the preamps and the onboard mics). I plan on using it for many years to come.

I took nigelewan's advice and set the h4n in my shirt pocket- it fits snug and perfectly. I kinda hated how it sticks out a bit- the mics are silver and shiny so I have to imagine JD notices it, but the fact that he's currently binging Grateful Dead tapes makes me feel a bit better. Still, I kinda want to paint them black or something. Not sure if that's possible though. The shininess is definitely gaudy, but oh well.

Try to position yourself as close to a speaker as possible. Your recording will end up being what the room at large hears mixed with the crowd audio from around you and also feintly capture JD if he goes off mic which is awesome.

The h4n has a bunch of quality options- I did some research and opted for 24bit/48khz . Apparently that's a sweet spot of making the bass sound really nice and juicy and being high quality but still allowing for a lot of recording time (depending on how big a card you get. I used this 32g card. I used a fresh pair of batteries for each show since I didn't want to take any risks.

You have to set the mic level- I was pretty freaking close to some speakers and it seemed like between 20-35 was the good spot. 20 for most songs, and I'd try to turn it up a few notches when a quieter one came on (and then I'd often forget to turn it back down for the subsequent songs so they'd be louder haha).

Wish you the best of luck! Let me know if you have any other questions.

Okay this is going to be a long post, so here goes.

​

If you really want to get into sound design, youre going to need a few essentials. A DAW (Digital Audio Workstation), an audio interface, a handheld recorder, and a microphone.




DAWs

As far as a DAW goes, there's a few alternatives you can go with. I personally use Avid Pro Tools for near everything I do, but also mess around with Reaper. I've found that most studios will use one of these two. Most DAWs will have a pretty steep learning curve, so be ready for that.

Pro Tools First is the free version of Pro Tools. It has a lot of limitations, but for starting out it should be fine. If you want less limitations it costs big money, but I'm sure you can find a crack or two as long as you don't use it commercially.

Reaper is starting to grow on me lately. You can customize it to your needs, and the full version is only $60. You can also just deal with a popup everytime you open the program for ten seconds and use it for free. I mainly prefer Pro Tools over this because the video engine in Pro Tools is much better. But for batch editing multiple sound files, Reaper is muuuuuch better.

​

Audio Interface

This basically takes over as an intermediary between high quality audio and your computer. You can plug a microphone right into it to record sound straight to your computer. You can do this with a USB microphone as well, but the quality is a million times better with one of these.
I would recommend either the Behringer UMC22 or the more advanced Focusrite Scarlett Solo. Both will do the trick, I just prefer the mic pres on the Focusrite a bit more.


Handheld Recorder
Handheld recorders allow you to record anything you want to without having to deal with any cables. They should be compact but durable.

The Tascam DR-40 is a great intro recorder. It was the first recorder I got 5 years ago, and it still holds up. I've dropped this thing so many times and it still powers through.
Another favorite is the Zoom H4N. This was a favorite among most of my classmates as it was the one my school supplied, but I didn't feel like going through the checkout process all the time so I saved up and got the Tascam. It has a newer version, the Zoom H6, which is pretty slick, but comes at a higher price point. It also comes with some interchangeable microphone capsules so you can get different types of recordings. I'll cover more of this later.
I'll leave off with the recorder I have now, the Sony PCM-M10. This thing is a godsend. It's discontinued due to a newer version coming out, but you can find this guy on eBay for around $300-400. It's smaller than a phone, and the sound quality is amazing. If you have the money to shell out for this guy, definitely go for it. Every sound designer inn the industry I know swears by it.


Microphone

So the first thing you need to know is that there's a load of different microphone types. Its a lot to cover, so I'm just going to link you to this article that will cover the basics of what you need to know. Basically I would recommend different microphones for different things, all depending on what you're trying to capture.
A good all-around microphone is the Shure SM57/Shure SM58. They're essentially both the same microphone. But these things will LAST. Like,people have run over them with trucks and they sound fine. Definitely a good starting point

For vocal recordings, I would recommend the Rode NT1A. This mic is a great starting point for capturing voice, and is durable to boot.

For capturing foley/field recording, I would go with the Rode NTG2. Its a shotgun mic with great quality for the price, and never let me down in all the years Ive been using it. I won its successor, the NTG3, in the Riot Creative Contest a few years back, but still use the NTG2 from time to time when I need to.


Some Extra Stuff


Theres a lot of cool, free plugins out there. I've used both Blue Cat's and Melda's plugins, and they all get the job done with a bit of tweaking.

As far as building up a sound library goes, I would recommend recording literally everything you can around you and playing with those sounds with plugins as a good starting point for building up a library. There's a few resources out there that give out free SFX every once in a while, GDC has had a bundle go up for 2016, 2017, 2018 and 2019. You can also check out the BBC Sound Effects Library. Be careful about getting libraries and bundles though, as they add up quick. I have to go through my sound library soon, and I probably have around 500,00+ files but only really need a few thousand.

For all your sounds, you're going to want a file manager. A great and free one is Mutant. You just add the directory where you downloaded your sounds to, let it load them in, and voila. You can search easily for what you need.


Hopefully, all this was somewhat helpful to you, or to anyone else reading this who's interested in sound design!

Hi /u/nerdress -

The Rode Videomic Pro is a pretty good mic but the t3i is really, really bad for audio no matter how good the microphone. I'd strongly suggest getting an external recorder like the H4N or, at the very minimum, a H1N. You may want to pair it with a XLR shotgun mic like this if you can find the $$$.

A tripod is something that can last for many years, but the one you linked to is really bottom of the barrel. This is something I'd suggest investing a little more money into, you are going to want a universal fluid head specifically if you plan on doing video work semi-regularly. I'd get a semi-compact Manfrotto tripod like that one, you won't regret it.

Lastly, do you plan on using the kit lens? I'd suggest grabbing the famous nifty fifty. It's a legend for many reasons (super sharp, great lowlight, durable as can be).

Also you are going to want to get this battery grip for the t3i if you don't have one already. I remember when I shot on a t3i I purchased that out of whim, and I'm pretty sure I never took it off for 3+ years. It not only extends your battery, but it makes the camera much more comfortable to hold.

Hope some of this helps, sounds like you'll be in good shape! Remember, audio is just as important as video, so it's smart to invest in that type of gear.

There are uses for a mixer beyond recording. I also use mine to connect studio monitors (flat response speakers) for editing. A mixer can also be useful to help your audio chain if you ever add more expensive gear like an audio processor.

With that said I would offer two additional bits of advice. Never go with a USB-only microphone. It will close off your options for more solutions in the future.

Also, in your situation I would indeed grab a portable recorder with 2 XLR inputs like a Zoom H4nPro, a Zoom H5 or a Tascam DR-40. Personally out of the bunch I'd go with the H5 but just know there are options out there. I'd go with a portable recorder because they generally have better pre-amps, you can use any XLR microphone with them and you can take them anywhere and record - even in your sister's closet (I'm going to have to hear that story sometime /u/BangNaughtyBits )

Good luck and continue to create that great content!

Here's a suggestion: 2x JBL LSR305 MK2; and this cable. Then buy a Chromecast Audio which is about $35. (not available on amazon because they hate google). This will give you wifi connected audio you can cast to from spotify or other sources. I have 2 of these setups in my house; these speakers can play very loud.

You can also get the new model, 305P, for $10 more. https://www.amazon.com/JBL-2-Way-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1523718571&sr=1-1&keywords=305p

Great! You're welcome. Then if you are on the newer design desktop site you can also use the "fancy pants editor" or the insert link button on mobile to turn https://www.amazon.com/JBL-305PMKII-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC into JBL Professional 305PMKII 5" 2-Way Powered Studio Monitor.

Stretched budget: Get two of these- https://www.amazon.com/JBL-305PMKII-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541979016&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=lsr305&dpPl=1&dpID=41FIHvzIMXL&ref=plSrch

Under budget: Get these- https://www.amazon.com/d/Home-Audio-Systems/Swans-Speakers-Bookshelf-Excellent-Dissipation/B006D9Y8TQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541979080&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=swan+d1010-ivb&dpPl=1&dpID=41Qe1Ld2NRL&ref=plSrch

Now get 2x of these: https://www.amazon.com/JBL-Professional-Next-Generation-Powered-305PMKII/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=jbl+305&qid=1571172889&sr=8-2

​

And behold the overtones that you didn't even know existed. You probably have to keep a headphone adapter in the piano to turn off the internal speakers, but thats a tiny price to pay for awesome audio.

https://www.amazon.es/gp/offer-listing/B077N2GQXC/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new

...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077N2GQXC/

I think you can get JBL 305 mk2 for around that.


Edit: Yup, $89 each!
https://www.amazon.com/JBL-Professional-Next-Generation-Powered-305PMKII/dp/B077N2GQXC/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077N2GQXC?pf_rd_p=183f5289-9dc0-416f-942e-e8f213ef368b&pf_rd_r=W2Z5361TYMAKQ4HNNZPS

Decided to build a 60% with cherry silent reds, o-rings and some acoustic foam at the bottom because I have the same problem

easy fix

It's some sort of sound dampening foam I found on Amazon. It also works really well for cases and the back of mounting plates (between the plate and the pcb).

Between the PCB and the bottom of the case some people use SilverStone 4mm Silent Foam SF01 - $17.99

Dynamat - $13.99 is another popular case-dampening material.

A couple less expensive options that also work well:

Neoprene foam rubber with adhesive backing - $1.11 per foot + $2.80 shipping. Sold in 2" wide strips, so 4-5 feet is probably plenty for most keyboards.

Adhesive-backed neoprene rubber pads - $1.99 + $3.95 shipping. Two sets might be necessary for larger keyboards.

Uh...I suppose you could... here's what a high cap looks like inside. You'd have to remove sections of the mag but leave that part that clips into the magwell...and leave the bottom exposed so you can wind it (or if you have a flash mag feed a string through I suppose). Basically you're replacing the hard walls the BB hit into with cloth. You could line the edge of the feeding tube so they only hit metal or plastic at the bottom where they feed into the wheel. You could totally massively increase the capacity this way! It'd probably look like a giant ballsack hanging from your gun though. Hmmmm that gives me an idea....

I guess a more practical solution would be line the inside of the mag with cloth or thin sheets of acoustic foam (this is what I use to fill crevices in guns to dampen noise and reduce plasticreak) but I have a feeling that the BBs would have feeding issue and the capacity would reduced.

Honestly, I've completely switched to mid caps - 5x110 BBs is more than enough for 99% of matches. No rattling, consistent feeding, no winding, work in any orientation, and no tell tale WHIIRRRRR when you run out of ammo. Folks at my field listen for that to know when to pop out and open up because they know they are likely to catch someone with their pants down - some folks carry one and pull the spring release to cause a whirr to trick others to pop out lol.

Yeah for sure :) The first time you switch out pads it takes some getting used to stretching them all the way around. I used these http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-Velour-Earcushions-MDR7506-Headphones/dp/B0016MF7W2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396027183&sr=8-1&keywords=velour+pads but I found them to be quite a tight fit for the m50's which means slightly annoying to put on your cans. They aren't a perfect fit so the lip of the pads that holds onto the ear cup doesn't go all the way in like it does for the stock pads. If this is confusing I can provide some pictures but they do feel more comfortable after you've completed the mod. A lot of people liked to use these Shure pads http://www.amazon.com/Shure-HPAEC940-Replacement-Velour-Headphones/dp/B005OM06RG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1396027173&sr=8-2&keywords=m50+pads too though I haven't had any personal experiences with them.

These are open back so they change the sound signatue. I mainly use mine for gaming so that isn't too much of an issue for me.

As for prolonged use, I'd say someone could wear these for a long time, they are definitely deeper than the original pads. But if you're ears perk out more than normal then take a look at the other suggested pads such as this. Every now and then I'd take off my headphones but that is more of an issue with humidity than soreness. I am not saying that there isn't any soreness, this slight soreness would come

My only real gripe with these particular pads is that they are slightly too large for the headphones and therefore the pads can rotate around changing it's orientation. It is simple to change them back, almost second nature.

> SHP9500S

headband, idk, earcup: https://www.amazon.com/Shure-HPAEC940-Replacement-Velour-Headphones/dp/B005OM06RG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492057099&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=shure+940+ear+pads reportedly is a perfect fit: see https://i.imgur.com/LF5Io1y.jpg

Amazon...

However, it's a recommended mod to use [these pads] ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005OM06RG?pc_redir=1397134843&robot_redir=1 ) for added comfort.

My brother ordered these to replace the normal pads. Not sure how well they fit, but when I tried them they seemed to fill rather well.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OM06RG/ref=oh_details_o01_s01_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HPAEC940

Amazon! here's the link. They don't exactly fit the headphones perfectly but are still a hell of a lot more comfortable than the stock pads.

The hard plastic inside the earcups slopes inward toward the front of your face (guessing to better support the Virtual Surround Sound).

If you have big ears (more towards the front of your face), then this can put pressure and cause a bit discomfort during long gaming sessions.

I bought some replacement ear cups that were about 3mm thicker (and velour material) which were easy enough to replace. The existing cups are twist off and the foam can be pealed off.

These are the ones I bought, but they are a very tight fit, so maybe try to find something that is slightly larger.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OM06RG/

I actually replaced mine with shure 940 pads, which didn't end up changing the sound noticeably, and are more comfortable.

These are the pads: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OM06RG/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Get these. I have them, they are thicker than the stock pads and much much more comfy.

You can have a killer setup for under $500.

Mic: Audio Technica AT2005 - A great mic that a lot of let's players use (draax, zueljin, kingdaddydmac, etc.). It also accepts xlr or usb inputs (more on that at the end). I use the atr2100, which is the same mic, just different color and warranty. The at2005 is cheaper by about $25 right now, so buying today, that's the one I'd get. It's a dynamic mic, so it blocks out sound that's not in front of it. Much better for noisy environments. Condenser mics like the blue yeti will pick up a lot more background noise. Other mics I've used are the V-Moda Boompro, which works with most headphones that have detachable cables (in my case the M100s) and sounds good, but changing the cable for when I didn't want to use the mic became old pretty fast. You can leave it attached, but then the boom mic is there all the time. I've also used the antlion modmic 4.0 and can't recommend it. It has white noise unless you use a usb soundcard, the cable is stiff and it's kind of expensive compared to full fledged mics. $56

Stand: Pyle PMKSH01 Suspension Boom Scissor Microphone Stand - A decent cheap stand. Nothing special, but it comes with an integrated xlr cable. I use this one, but may upgrade to the Rode PSA1 ($100) later on. The shock mount will not fit the at2005 however. $21

Shock Mount: On-Stage MY420 - A great shock mount that fits the at2005/atr2100. Shock mounts reduce noises from bumping your desk or tapping on your keyboard; things that may reverberate to your mic. It might not even be necessary if you're not a heavy handed gamer or if your desk is made of a thick, dense material. $25

Wind Filter: On-Stage Foam Ball Windscreen - Reduces wind/breathing noises as well as minimizing plosives. Not a complete necessity, but extremely cheap and it does help, so why not? $3

Cable management: Velcro One-Wrap Cable Wraps - I use these for keeping the usb cable for the mic attached to the stand. Extremely useful and cheap. $6

Headphones: Very subjective to user preference. I prefer closed vs open for noise isolation. Here's what I've used:

Audio Technica ATH M50: Good (not great) headphones for ~$100. Considered the standard by many, but to me they're just good. $155

V-Moda M100: Excellent sound with very potent bass. They make the M50s sound muddy in comparison. HOWEVER, the M100s have a design flaw where the "wings" (the parts above where you adjust the headphones) will crack over time. It happened to two pairs of my M100s. Unacceptable for the price of these headphones, regardless of how good they sound. $222

Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 80 Ohm: Amazing. Potent bass like the M100s, but even a bit clearer. Very wide soundstage for closed headphones. I paid $219 for mine and don't regret it a single bit. I might grab another pair at the price they're currently at. $150

All that adds up to around $261 + tax choosing the DT770s, and will be a killer setup for gaming. Far better than any "gaming" headset, and it even opens the option of streaming or let's play videos (the reason I got my setup). There is one more thing I'd add though, given the budget if you're serious about mic quality, and that's the $99 Focusrite Scarlett Solo 2nd Gen. It's a usb audio interface that accepts xlr mics. It gives you a bit more control over the audio coming out of your mic and cleans up the signal so you get less "noise" from the usb interface. Quality is good without it, but with it, it's noticeably better.

Hope this helps some! I spent quite a while researching things when I put my own setup together. :)

Your best bet is to save up a little more and buy a stand alone mic that will last years.

This mic you can connect via a usb and xlr. Once you buy this and save more money up you can buy a cheap mixer/preamp to connect this to. It will make your mic sound a lot better.

https://www.amazon.com/Technica-AT2005USB-Handheld-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B007JX8O0Y/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Audio+Technica+AT2005USB+Handheld+Dynamic+Microphone&qid=1565335068&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-3

Scroll down and buy all 3 of the frequently bought together items for under 90 bucks. The arm, windscreen to put on the mic, and the mic.


When you're able to save up more money you should buy a preamp/mixer and use that xlr cable to plug into it. Here is a cheap one for down the road:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-502-Premium-5-Input-British/dp/B000J5UEGQ?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_11974871_0&pf_rd_p=86c5a16b-d588-5ae0-b0bf-f9999489ccdd&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=11974871&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=40F5EHBSEKR7GBG77VK3&pf_rd_r=40F5EHBSEKR7GBG77VK3&pf_rd_p=86c5a16b-d588-5ae0-b0bf-f9999489ccdd

there isn't a mixer that takes USB mics, I'm pretty happy with the Behringer X1204USB I got last december. I'd also recommend the AT2005 USB mic. It has both USB and XLR and is usually around $60. It's a dynamic mic that works well and the mixer has the capacity to have 4 of them.

For an arm, I have a cheap Newwer Mic Boom that works well, but I don't think it'd hold up under a lot of stress. It's a good starter though and has a XLR cable built into it.

I'm assuming you have a decent computer. If so, then an Audio-Technica ATR-2100USB or one of its equivalents -- AT2005 or Samson Q2U -- is the way to go. They're all "basically" the same, so get whatever's cheapest at the time of purchase. the 2100 does have a lifetime warranty while the others don't. They frequently go on sale.

Personally I like the Audio Technica AT2005USB. It comes with a little stand and a USB cable. It works extremely well when on the go. It also has a jack for your headphones and you can even plug it into a mixer via XLR, making it a very versatile mic.

If you are looking for something a little less expensive, there is the Audio Technica ATR2100USB. The audio quality is almost as good as the AT2100, but doesn't have as nice of an on/off switch or windscreen inside.

If you need even cheaper than that Knox has an AT2005 knock off. It looks and sounds nearly identical.

All 3 are dynamic cardioid mics which are usually preferable when recording in a less than ideal environment since they should pick up less room noise. I wouldn't worry as much about audio quality differences between your home studio, and anything you use while on vacation. Most listeners understand you can't bring your home studio on the road.


Also full disclosure, the Amazon links are affiliate links for GFQ Network, the podcast network I work for.

The Audio-Technica ATR2100/AT2005/Samson Q2U are very good podcasting microphones, and are versatile by having both USB and XLR connections.

The Zoom H6 is a good recorder. If you want to save money, get a Behringer mixer (1-XLR, 2-XLR, 4-XLR) and a Zoom H1 to record with.

The Audio-Technica ATH-M30x or ATH-M40x are good headphones.

Get any pop filter that fits your price. A Neewer boom arm is OK for podcasting (that's what I use), but the next step up is a Blue Compass, Rode PSA-1, or Heil PL-2T.

The Neewer boom arm comes with a plastic shock mount.

Monoprice.com has pretty good quality cables for cheap, but price almost equals quality for audio cables.

Audacity is a good audio editor.

Check out Better Podcasting, The Audacity to Podcast, School of Podcasting, The Feed, and Podcasters' Roundtable for podcast advice. Pod Squad is a Discord server that I help moderate where you can also get more help from other podcasters.

I have this http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2005USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B007JX8O0Y
got it not too long ago and I absolutely love it. The sound quality is quite good however not as good as a nice condenser mic. The Blue Snowball and Blue Yeti are very popular mic's in your price range as well. I would suggest checking out some reviews.

I switched to the dynamic mic over my condenser mic because they tend to be less sensitive to background noise, vibration and environmental factors at the expense of a little bit of quality. I was using a very decent condenser mic I had from doing music stuff years ago but I was running it through a Blue Icicle XLR to USB adapter and that thing was less than amazing.

Also, ideally you want to isolate the mic from your desk to reduce keyboard noise, so if you're going to be recording voice over while you play you don't really want to be using the small stands most Podcaster style mics come with. Boom stands and broadcaster arms are what you want to take a look at, as well as shock mounts and you'll want a pop filter or windscreen too, you're probably looking at around $30 bucks for all that stuff at the low end. The essential bit is the pop filter/windscreen but those are very inexpensive (a wire hanger and some panty hoes will make a good pop filter in a pinch).

Will $100 buy a "great" mic? No, not really haha. But it will buy you a very good mic and on top of that you can tweak your recording a bit to bring out an even better sound if you're inclined to do that. Once you're past the $100 mark there's a bit of a diminishing return on the investment in my opinion and there are tons of things you can do to improve your audio before you drop $500 on an amazing pro mic. I wouldn't suggest going beyond your current budget for your first mic, you will learn a ton about your voice and audio recording once you get into it. From there you will be able to make a much more informed decision if you choose to upgrade down the line.

You should check out the Audio Technica AT2005USB.
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2005USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B007JX8O0Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422575453&sr=8-1&keywords=at2005usb&pebp=1422575470744&peasin=B007JX8O0Y&pebp=1422575470829&peasin=B007JX8O0Y&pebp=1422575470933&peasin=B007JX8O0Y
It's about $60 on Amazon. USB and XLR. The guy over at http://creamyradioaudio.com highly recommends it. He and his co-hosts use them on a live, nationally syndicated radio show. The are some other great tips there also. He says to stay away from the blue yeti.

Just a heads up: The seiren bundle is almost like the Beats of microphones. Okay not that bad, but still. It looks good (if you like a big razer logo on your mic). The features don't come close to matching the price though.

50% off makes it a reasonable package, but at stock price its essentially a much more expensive Blue Yeti. The reviews for the essential hardware lead me to believe this one gets a little thin if you compare it to the audio technica USB mic at the $130 pricepoint..

As for the pop filter and shock mount, as I have mentioned elsewhere, Your biggest reduction in unwanted sound will come from getting a boom mic. It reduces vibrations and, more importantly, allows you to place the microphone at a proper distance from your mouth. With the proper placement, the mic signal is hot, so you're not turning up the gain to sound intelligible, which in turn increases the ambient noise. The pop filter can be useful, but the seiren filter is needlessly expensive, for something you can make at home. Shockmounts will be relevant only if you for some reason need to adjust and move the mic stand all the time. A boom stand eliminates the need.

What I'm saying is, although you're technically getting a deal, There are other choices you can find with more bang for your buck, if all you need is a mic to record your voice for gameplay streaming or VOIP for games. If your budget is $150 dollars I would say to get either the audiotechnica (a reputable and affordable audio company) or the Blue Yeti, and buy a heavy duty boom mic stand.

Now don't let me stop you from spending the money the way you want, but I just thought I would throw out my two cents on the matter since I had the time.

[EDIT] Just throwing this out there, I would buy this mic before any of the ones we talked about: http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR2100-USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B004QJOZS4

or this: http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2005USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B007JX8O0Y

I haven't used Audacity for anything other than recording, but overall I think it works really well!
Yes, VNC works, I forgot about it, thanks.
I'll look into that script, although my scripting/programming skills are virtually non-existent, so it looks a little confusing to me, haha.

edit: just in case, I'm using this mic AT2005USB and the pi's USB is powerful enough to drive it! (I just have the mic and a mouse plugged in, nothing else).

Hahaha. I'm sorry friend. Just ordered this!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JX8O0Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GRMF4RS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I hear you bro.

I recently faced this exact same issue. I game in my basement where it's fairly noisy. So, what I ended up getting is the below list. It works great and does a really good job of not picking up my KUL-87 MX Clear keyboard, the clothes washer/dryer, HVAC, my noisy overclocked computer, and so on.


You can use this with just USB or also go the XLR route into a audio interface where you can use compression, cutoffs, and other features to improve things even better. For a time I did this using my ZOOM H5 but right now I am actually going XLR then directly into my soundcard via a XLR to 3.5mm adapter. My Soundblaster Z has some fun software "enhancements" for mics that I can use this way.


Audio-Technica AT2005USB https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JX8O0Y

Foam Ball-Type Mic Windscreen https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002GXF8Q

K&M 23200 Table Microphone Stand https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NTZKH6

On Stage MY-420 Studio Microphone Shock Mount https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AUSOAW

Completely agree with Egsession. IMO mic quality is just as important as video quality when streaming. I use this fairly inexpensive but high quality mic by Audio-Technica.

​

Edited: fixed link.

They are here

How much desk real estate are you willing to commit to this sound system? Those speakers are designed for far-field listening and may not present a coherent sound field in the near-field. There are smaller amp solutions made for the desk environment also.

May I suggest that if you won't connect to a TV in the near future (years?) why not get the tool for the PC sound situation at hand and purchase an up-to-date tool for the future TV situation vs. compromising the PC solution now for a future "maybe."

So my advice is to get a 2.0 or 2.1 desktop solution tailor-made for this application and let tomorrow's you deal with tomorrow's TV solution.

To save desk space I'd go powered monitors on stands. My thinking on the powered vs. passive is the powered monitors have the amp/speaker electrical interaction accounted for during the engineering phase which prevents any complications from a lean/bright speaker being paired with a lean/bright amplifier or vice versa and saves you space on the desk. Looked at another way, what more easy to engineer situation is a desktop listening experience? Most of the variables of speaker separation and distance to listener are minimized to very finite distances, especially when compared to a living room setup. Why not let the engineers do their job and provide you the best listening experience they can provide for your setup and price point?

I've got the JBL LSR305s and isoACOUSTICS L8R-155 stands https://www.amazon.de/IsoAcoustics-ISO-L8R-Studio-Monitor-Stand/dp/B008GOP79G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473713476&sr=8-1&keywords=isoacoustics and like the combination very much. Had to go with an outboard controller as my sound card is noisy, went with the Scarlett 2i4 but could've used the 2i2 but that wasn't available locally.

The speakers and stands will be a little over your 500 Euro limit but well worth it in my book to spend the extra Euro to get the final solution on the first go round.

Slightly pricier, but I like the look of the IsoAcoustics stands. I picked up the ISO-L8R155 for my LSR305s after using books as a stand.

I wouldn't say it was a sound improvement over the books, but it did eliminate desk vibration.

Having your speakers on top of stacked books is generally not a good idea if you want to get value from them in terms of good audio reference.

IsoAcoustics ISO-L8R155 Home and Studio Speaker Stands - Medium - Pair https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B008GOP79G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tDl1Bb6R0DR5X

Try these desk stands that will greatly reduce the vibration your speakers give to the desk and will sound “better” overall, which is more transparent to the monitor intended sound.

Those are an example, I got something similar for my home studio back home but you can try look for similar options :)

Hope it helps.

Any size restrictions? Rythmik makes some great stuff, slightly over budget though. You've got a sealed / ported option with a minor price difference. The sealed digs deeper at the cost of output, but both claim below 20hz anyway.

As for speakers, check out the Mini Philharmonitor. The ported version of the speaker costs $750 (50 more than the sealed), but you're getting a bit more bass to start. Comes with a very well reviewed tweeter that he uses in his $1300 speakers.

For stands, its mostly dependent on your setup. Isoacoustics stands are great for on desk. For floor stands, Sanus makes a billion stands in different heights.

These are them: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B008GOP79G/ref=pe_386430_121528420_TE_dp_1

They basically have two different heights, as you can see with the two different sizes of stanchions. There are also short little spacers you can use to add a little more height, or just put them on two corners to make them angle up or down, like I did.

I think my bookshelf speakers are slightly larger than average, basic 2 way speakers with a 6.5 inch midrange. My subwoofers are pretty big and heavy.

For normal listening and movies it isn't bad. But if you play something with really heavy bass the vibrations become noticeable. I'm still conflicted about the setup myself but I am not unhappy.

I purchased some cork from home depot to try to reduce vibrations and it is okay but not great


I think the next step is possibly some type of Sorbothane. Apparently it is amazing for isolation BUT you need to do calculations based on the weight of your speakers to determine exactly how much you need to use.

http://www.amazon.com/Isolate-Sorbothane-Vibration-Isolation-Circular/dp/B0042U8P9C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451966315&sr=8-1&keywords=isolate+it


Another alternative I am looking at is purchasing a set Isoaccoustics. They look like a gimmick but they got pretty good reviews, and they would also raise my bookshelfs to ear level.

http://www.amazon.com/IsoAcoustics-1004209-ISO-L8R155-Medium-Pair/dp/B008GOP79G


Post back if you end up with some solution. I'd love to hear it as I am in the same predicament.

You can find these brands all over the world at your local musician / pro audio store or online retailer of your choice in your country.

These are the cheaper of the models - the pricier ones have more mic preamps and input channels along with sliding faders instead of rotary pots for gain.

• https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-Mix-Mix5-5-Channel-Mixer/dp/B00ND1K8T6
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q502USB-Xenyx/dp/B00CTKI10A/
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-MG06-6-Input-Compact-Stereo/dp/B00I2J4WJG/
  
  

You're probably looking for a dynamic microphone. There are plenty of them around, my two picks for good cheap ones are the atr2100 or the behringer ultravoice xm8500. The atr2100 is both USB and XLR, so it works with larger mixer setups through xlr and also works on its own through usb, and the latter xm8500 needs an interface to work, and works out to around the same price when you include something like a q502usb.

Are you talking about having a backing track on the computer, and then recording voice and mixing it to the backing track? Or just voice (like a podcast?)

Either way, I highly recommend a USB-mixer, like this one:

Behringer 502

I picked one up off Craigslist for $40 a few years ago. It's a great "swiss army mixer" that I use for little projects at home and on live-sound gigs.

Then start off with a solid vocal mic:

Shure SM48

or Behringer 8500

This will give you the option to easily upgrade the microphone in the future if you want to.

You'll also want a mic stand.

Audacity is awesome, and you can check out other options here:

http://www.homestudiocenter.com/best-free-audio-editor/

Ok well I won't explain everything in mine because it's a little over the top, but that's because I recorded music before I got into Twitch so I already had all my equipment. But what it essentially is a dynamic mic w/ XLR cable -> audio interface w/ USB cable -> computer. Here's the cheapest possible setup I could find on Amazon:

Shure PGA48 w/ 15' XLR cable: $40

Behringer Xenyx Q502USB: $60

Neewer Suspension Boom Stand: $14

total: $114

Do keep in mind that this mixer only has one pre-amp, meaning you'd only be able to plug one mic into it. If you wanted to plug in more than one mic (for instance if you have a friend coming over or something), you'd need a different mixer with more preamps. But yea my setup is essentially the above, just with more expensive stuff haha

If you wanna hear what my setup sounds like (getting a setup like the one above would get you a similar sound), here's a short highlight to see what it looks and sounds like (I chose this one to highlight the fact that you can move the mic around): https://www.twitch.tv/kvyngaming/v/106103644

Note how even when I grab the mic and move it, you barely hear anything. That'd never happen with a condenser mic.

I have been using 2 PCs for a while, I can PM you a video I made a while back if that helps.

You're old PC is very capable of handling streaming. You don't have to use a capture card, but it is what I am using at the moment. You can setup a rtmp server, I have a little success using it but decided to go back to using a capture card.

The capture card you choose should depend on what settings you want to run your game and stream at. The AV.IO 4k is what I am using right now, it lets me game at 1440p and downscale to 720p for my stream. You said you want to get an ultrawide monitor and this card can let capture that screen size. Not sure about OBS, but Xsplit will allow you to capture a portion of the screen so the rest of it won't be shown.

For sound I am using a channel mixer, with an XLR mic. You don't have to use a channel mixer. Depending on the capture card that you use you can capture the sound via HDMI, a channel mixer just offers more control.

There is a neat program called synergy that will let you use one set of m&kb for both computers.

If you use an Avermedia capture card you will have to use an extra program for OBS, at least this was the case when I still had one. Not sure about other capture cards but the Avermedia LGP has a headphone jack that will allow you to listen to your gaming computer, but not you streaming PC.

This is all I can remember right now, let me know if you need any more help.

Neither of those will work. They just switch from one input to another. It doesn't play all sources at once. What's your current PC setup?

Cheapest option is routing the audio into your PC and playing the audio there. There's tons of ways to do this. Depends on your budget really.

E: An example would be to get SPDIF dac like this into a mixer. Connect mixer to your computer via USB and mix it together.

Sounds like you really need an inexpensive USB mixer, something like the Behringer Xenyx Q802USB, or even the Q502USB. This will allow you to use more than one XLR microphone and port it into your computer via USB.

It would also allow you to do mix-minus with Skype calls — but I think a Zencaster account might work just as well, or even better.

You should consider picking up a Zoom or Tascam digital audio recorder as well, if only to have a redundant recording system. Ray Ortega has a great walkthrough on setting up mix-minus with a mixer: How to Setup a Mix Minus for Recording Skype.

Everybody knows the best way to power your PC these days is with 48V.

Hi, sorry I don't have a picture for you and I'm out of the country at the moment and can't take the laptop apart. But it's very simple - I just took a piece of double sided tape and taped 1 side of the foam to the back plate and closed it back up. I'm sure you can substitute the material as well. What I noticed is that having the 9 cell battery is that the foam will be against the battery, which might get hot, so you might want to keep that in mind if you use another material. However if you have the smaller battery, then I believe it's just an empty space where the HDD would go.

Edit: So this is what the foam stuff is, it makes complete sense https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-21-Inch-Dampening-Acoustic-SF01/dp/B0040JHMH6/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1496798617&sr=8-4-fkmr2&keywords=laptop+noise+dampening+material

I'm using an old NZXT Source 210 and modded the side panel and rear with some Silverstone Sound Dampening material/foam. You can cut it to the shape you need, and it has an adhesive on the back that stuck pretty well to my case. Overall, it definitely helped dampen the high frequency noise coming from my case. You might be able to find cheaper alternatives though. The foam is a bit thin, about 1/4" or so, but it made a noticeable difference.

I could upload & post some pictures later today if you like.

The third point was in reference to this basically.

If you got the money I'd say go for it (Noctura and Scythe make some really solid 20dB or lower CPU coolers) , but if you like the cooler and don't want to install a new heat sink maybe try some acoustic sound dampening foam for your PC to see if that brings the sound to a manageable level.

Any1 use this Silverstone foam for case noise dampening? If so how is it?

It's the Silverstone SF01. It did make a difference, I wouldn't say it's more quiet. Rather it feels more solid to type on and gives the keyboard more density.

I've used this (https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-21-Inch-Dampening-Acoustic-SF01/dp/B0040JHMH6) in my boards, mostly because I already had one lying around the house. I remember some here have used drawer liners as well.

Yeah I gotchu. On my TKC1800 builds, I used this so I didn't have to mess with it.

Get some foam on that back panel, that's the only thing that doesn't seem to fit with the bright white...

http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-21-Inch-Dampening-Acoustic-SF01/dp/B0040JHMH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1345135728&sr=8-1&keywords=silverstone+foam

Excellent otherwise, A++

Thanks. I prefer the BT with the Type-S sliders & rings. I'll definitely be adding a vibration mat to the bottom of it as well, just haven't ordered it yet. I'll probably add some sound dampening foam to the internal case of both HHKBs. I prefer the nice dampened thock sound from a more silenced board and the HHKB BT has a more hefty body than the standard Professional 2 models which is nice as well.

I actually harvested the Type-S sliders & rings from an old Pro 2 Type-S that I have since sold with normal Topre sliders with kbdfans silence-x rings.

I've also owned a stock Pro 2, a HHKB Professional JP with kbdfans silence-x and Hasu BT Controller and probably one or two more off the top of my head.

The MX board is an interesting departure for me as before I discovered Topre I was using Tactile MX switches (started with Cherry Browns, then Gateron Browns, then Zealios 67g). I kept hearing great things from primarily topre users that were finding Cherry MX Silent Blacks or Silent Reds appealing if they were to use MX switches. I decided to give it a try and do not see myself going back to an MX tactile switch, linear is the way to go for MX, for me anyway.

You would have to cut it down a bit and be careful how thick it would be around the battery.

I have never heard of IsolateIt though I would rather go with SilverStone since people use it commonly for sound dampening in keyboards - https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-21-Inch-Dampening-Acoustic-SF01/dp/B0040JHMH6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1504654931&sr=8-7&keywords=sound+dampening+foam

Here!

this stuff has worked for me

they do have these https://www.amazon.com/Shure-HPAEC940-Replacement-Velour-Headphones/dp/B005OM06RG
which should fit and be similar to the stock pads except for velour.

honestly i don't love my hm5 pads. they are way better than stock but not perfect.

If you order the SRH440s, order the SRH940 velour pads and that will make them much more comfortable.

I got those pad's and I didn't like them. They make the sound stage a lot wider, but they kill all of the bass and make them sound... I dunno, 'tinny', imo. I use these

Get yourself some of these

I happened to own a pair of shure 940's and tried them out on the m50's, makes them MUCH more comfortable.

these work too

The replacement pads for the Shure SRH940s also work really well on the M50s. They are a lot more breathable and they don't noticeably affect the sound signature.

http://www.amazon.com/Shure-HPAEC940-Replacement-Velour-Headphones/dp/B005OM06RG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1416662212&sr=8-2&keywords=ath+m50+velour

I got these a while back.

Fixed ALL of my comfort complaints.

Cut back a bit of bass though...

Got your back.

https://www.amazon.com/Shure-HPAEC940-Replacement-Velour-Headphones/dp/B005OM06RG/

I know it says Shure, but as long as the m50x is the same size as the m50 they fit perfectly.

I heard that the hm5 hurt the sound more than they help comfort. Someone on this sub recommended some shure pads but idk the full name. Anyone have those pads and care to share?

Edit: [Amazon link] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005OM06RG)

http://www.amazon.com/Shure-HPAEC940-Replacement-Velour-Headphones/dp/B005OM06RG

I use these, because I tend to wear my M50s when I go to bed (not a good idea, but whatever.) In summer, I'd be woken up by ear discomfort - burning hot ears and dripping with sweat - within an hour or two, roll over and take them off, and promptly fall back asleep.

With the 940 pads, my ears are much more comfortable, although I think they're a bit shallower than the original pads. Often times I don't even take them off (Japan in winter means they keep my ears just warm enough - bedroom gets down to around freezing during late Dec-Jan during the night.)

There are quite a few. These will work, but they aren't the ones I got. I can take pics of mine when I get home, or you could google velour/felt pads for ATH-M50

Shure 840 or 940 pads for Phillips SHP9500?

I noticed that both the [Shure 840 pads](https://www.amazon.com/Shure-HPAEC840-Replacement-Cushions-Headphones/dp/B002Z9JWZS/ref=sr_1_1? ie=UTF8&qid=1520819045&sr=8-1&keywords=shure+840+pads) and Shure 940 pads will fit on the SHP9500's.

The difference is in the pad material. 940's are a velour material while 840's are leather. Which would you guys recommend?

So I love my m50x's, but the earpads are trash. I bought the HM5 pads but they sounded awful, and I found that it was because the lip that held the earpads on covered a part of the driver. Long story short i cut a bit of the lip off and now they sound fantastic, but theyre completely ruined and need tape to stay on. So my question is, what are the best earpads for the m50x's? Love the feel of the HM5's, so will these mess up the sound? Please help!

These fit. Different brand.

I use the [Shure 940] (http://owww.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005OM06RG) velour pads with my m50s. A lot more comfortable and fit perfectly

You can twist off the section of the ear cup that holds the ear pad in place. You'll have to cut off the old pads and remove all of the padding material inside. Here's a good video I used as a reference when I was doing mine: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbfnR0Lnpw0

These are the replacement pads that I used, same as the guy on the video: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OM06RG

One note though, some of the white stitching on the new pads will show outside of the headphones. It's a minor cosmetic issue but it feels great with those pads.

I use these. They're a little big, but they don't move THAT much and I really like the velour. Before, I couldn't stand the heat buildup.

I did this and did not like the change in sound signature at all. Way too boomy. Currently using these pads

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OM06RG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Those are cheaper and fit perfectly, and are much better than the default pads. I'm currently at 10 hours today with them on and I feel fine. I've worn them for longer and they're still fine. The default pads though killed my ears.

If you look up mod for ath m50s on google you will find a head-fi article on it, but I bought these and they are great.

GUYS
These replacement earpads for the M50x's are amazing.

I bought these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OM06RG/ref=oh_details_o02_s02_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

mostly due to the fact that my ears would get hot/sweat if i was wearing my ath-m50s for long. I use them at work which requires me to sometimes be listening so I can't comment much on whether the sound isolation is the same, but the bass is different, not bad though just more of an open bass.

These adapter rings - https://www.modhouseaudio.com/shp9500_adapter_rings/philips-shp9500-mod-3d-printed-pad-adapters
And these earpads - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OM06RG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm thinking about buying a mic for discord, maybe streaming (emphasis maybe) and am leaning towards a dynamic mic because I've been told that they're better for reducing background noise vs a condenser.

If I get a dynamic mic with XLR out, what would be the okayest way to hook it up to my PC with acceptable input levels? At the moment, I'm considering this headset with the mic connected to the PC via this XLR to USB cable. Will that combination work ok, or should I be looking at something else?

The other thing I'm considering is this USB stand-alone mic and having game sound through my speakers.

I apologise is this isn't the right place to ask.

I ended up going with the one you said and I also got a pop filter. What do you think? Also what do you suggest I do to make a more audio recording friendly environment?
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2005USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B007JX8O0Y/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465590510&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Audio+techna+AT2005+USB+microphone

I'd recommend the Audio Technica AT2005($60). It's a dynamic microphone and has USB/XLR so whenever you want to upgrade to XLR you don't need to buy a new mic.

I'm currently using this microphone on this boom stand, clamped to the side of my desk. I originally invested in this setup because I was planning on streaming on Twitch and making youtube videos, so I wanted the good quality of the microphone and I liked the aesthetic that the boom arm provided. I was originally looking at the Blue Snowball and other mics and eventually settled on this one because the dynamic microphone was better than condensed ones for my purposes (doesn't pick up nearly as much environment noise).

It's now 2.5 years later and I've disliked this setup for a long time. I'm still using it because I just haven't gotten around to switching to something else (probably going to go with the Antlion ModMic). The microphone (even this cheaply priced, low end one) is completely overkill quality-wise. Sure, everybody on Teamspeak and Skype thinks I sound the best of anyone on there, but it's not like that matters, especially for me - I'm not the one hearing it. If you're going to be streaming or making videos, yeah, the quality is absolutely paramount, but just for general gaming it's very overkill. I've heard the ModMic's quality from multiple sources - youtube reviews, friends on skype/teamspeak, etc - and it sounds just fine. In fact, it's been a very long time since I've heard a modern microphone whose quality is insufficient for gaming and perhaps professional webinars.

Now, the thing that makes me dislike the setup is that the boom arm has become make-you-want-to-flip-your-desk levels of noisy as you move it, and I move it back and forth constantly. It takes up such a ridiculous amount of space that I'm moving it all the time because it's just uncomfortable and inconvenient and in the way when I'm not using it. When I am using it, it's permanently in my peripheral vision and that's just something I've had to get used to, but all for what? There are so many reasons NOT to go with a table mic or other kind of setup that really you should only be doing it if what you're doing requires, really, professional level sound. Other mics, like the Vmoda Boompro mic, the Antlion ModMic, hell even the cheap as dirt Zalman clip-on mic for like $8 will do the job just fine. Dealing with the extra cable that comes from the ModMic or a clip on mic is LEEEEEAGUES ahead of the solutions you'll need to employ to get rid of desk/keyboard sounds going through your table mic (you pretty much need a shock mount). On top of that, with the table mic you need to worry about placement, it takes up space on your desk which is dumb, or you end up with some dumb thing like a boom arm which is the absolute opposite of elegant, especially when it starts creaking and literally sounding like Santa Claus's workshop every time it moves a millimeter. Sorry, this turned into more of a rambling rant because honestly I've just been dealing with this shitty setup every single day for 2.5 years without benefiting at all from the quality of the microphone except for, I guess, just knowing that I sound better than everyone else on Teamspeak. I'm probably going to go on Amazon and order a ModMic or something directly after hitting save on this comment.

I guess the take-away here, my advice would be to drop the mindset that the quality that comes from a table mic like a Blue Snowball, Yeti, Sampson Meteor Mic, etcetcetc is needed and worth the hassle that is a table mic. Move forward with the mindset that other solutions - BETTER solutions - are just as good, especially when quality really isn't something that's make or break for you. Streaming and making youtube videos and such makes microphone quality pretty much the most important part of your setup because no one wants to listen to you unless you sound perfect, but gaming and the occasional webinar is a much different situation.

If you have any questions let me know.

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B007JX8O0Y

Without much else to go on, this is as good a suggestion as any. It's plug and play (like any USB mic), comes with a desk stand, and is a dynamic mic, so it will be better suited for poor room conditions. If you provide more info about how the mic will be used, may be able to give a better suggestion. Also a budget would be good.

Alternatively, there's the ATR-2100 which fluctuates in price. The Q2u and ATR-2100 are almost the same mic, they just vary in price and shipping mostly. There's also the ATR-2005 . Both are dynamic mics which offer USB and XLR so your setup can grow to XLR later down the line.

You look into this one at all?

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2005USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B007JX8O0Y/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1495924234&sr=8-15&keywords=audio+technica+mic

I jsut made the switch from a Blue Yeti to a Dynamic mic and XLR set up. I'll post what i picked up. May be a little over kill for solo but gives plenty of room for expansion.

First up, the MIC

Audio-Technica AT2005USB Cardioid Dynamic USB/XLR Microphone

This as it states is a DUEL USB and XLR Dynamic Mic. Since I got it i have loved using it for LEt's plays to just Team chat in games and at Lan Parties. It's got what you expect from a USB Mic. Has a Headphone jack and on board volume for the headphones, And an ON/OFF switch. But then it is also XLR compatible. So it's not something you will toss out the door when you move to XLR.

To go with it i got a desk mount Etubby Adjustable Desktop Microphone Suspension Boom Scissor Arm Stand Holder and some better Mounts for the stand. I have it set up so i just push it out of the way when i don't need it.

As for a mix board i have picked up this
Behringer Q1202USB 12-Channel Mixer.

As in the name as well this is a USB mixer. This does have phantom power if needed, has 4 XLR Inputs , and 12 Channels. And it's only 100 bucks or less depending on Amazon's Mood. And if you got any Music stores around you, This is also sold by GUITAR CENTER in the states, So you may be able to find it locally for same or cheeper.

Since i got it, I Had a little bit of a learning curb and the need to turn up the Compression on the mic channels. First recording with it was well a little blown out. I use this even when solo now cause I get more control over the MIC levels. It's easy to use in windows as it is very much plug and play. Shows up as USB AUDIO CODEC in windows. And if you want to, you CAN send you audio back out through it. Though that part i'm still learning on if it's usable in recordings or not.

I'm Not sure how much Cost wise that will Translate into £'s. But this over all Cost me $180 just for the mic and Mixer. The Mic did come with an XLR cable with it, so you do not need to buy one unless you need it to be longer.

Long post, I Know, But hopefully that gives a few useful suggestions for ya.

If you want to go the mic on an arm route, I'd look into a Audio-Technica AT2005USB on a Neewer NB-39 arm with On Stage MY325 shock mount. You don't even need one of those foam filters.

Just watch for those cheap like $12 mic arms on Amazon as they are comically short and cheaply made.

I'd also stay away from the (sadly) ubiquitous Blue Yeti as a condenser mic isn't what you want in an untreated room and you'll be fighting background noise all the time.

If you are getting a USB mic, the AT2020USB isn't bad. There are a few others to look at as well though, like the FiFine K670, CAD GXL2400, or the Audio-Technica ATR2500 for condensers, or the Samson Q2U or Audio-Technica AT2005 if you wanted a dynamic. If you can, listen to some tests and decide for yourself which sounds best between those and the AT2020USB.

​

With a USB mic, acoustic treatment is very important. They typically have a slightly harsh sound to the upper frequencies to begin with, and reverb from an untreated room will amplify that. If you can get the room treated it will still sound good, and the treatment can be anything from buying panels to throwing up some thick blankets against the walls. Even a high-end XLR setup will sound bad without a treated space, but USB mics tend to sound extra harsh if you don't have a treated room. So long as you have something to cut the echo, you should be fine.

The Blue Yeti is wonderful at picking up all sorts of noises you don't want picked up. I got rid on mine and went to an AT20-05. I spent about 2 weeks researching mica and looking at all of the options. The AT20-05 you can run off of a USB connection or XLR.

Right now I am just using the USB directly into my PC and I have had multiple comments on how my voice sounds better and there is less background noise. Eventuality I plan on swapping to the XLR and buying all of the components to go a more professional route, but for now this works great.

Just another option to consider.

Plus it is only $79 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JX8O0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_w5vozbS4GAZ8W

Auducity can be wonky but works well. Are y'all in the same room or remote?

Obviously a good mic is important. Can't go wrong with the snowball or yeti. I personally use this

Audio-Technica AT2005USB Cardioid... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JX8O0Y?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (non affiliate link) and love it compared to the blue mics. When you can getting a sound board is really nice and really helps with your quality

Audio Technica have a slightly cheaper USB Dynamic, the ATR2005. For another $5 less there is the Samson Q2u which some say has the exact same innards as the Audio Technicas, but i can't confirm that. Otherwise you may have to keep an eye out for sales. Just make sure you at least get a foam windscreen for each mic so you have some sort of pop-filtering.

Avoid Blue microphones because the chances of all three of you having recording environments where a Condenser microphone works better than a Dynamic are very low.

So these are what I'm looking at so far.

Audio Interface: M-Audio M-Track Eight 8-Channel USB Audio Interface
Microphones: 7 AT2005USBs (which apparently come with a stand and an XLR cable)

Total would come to be about $800.

What Hardware are you using, as in MIC. is it the mic from a Gaming headset or something else? It sounds like to me it's a MIC built into a gaming headset. Most headsets focused on gaming do not have great microphones. So if that is what your using. Will want to look at using a different mic.

If you want to get better audio without tons of extra hardware. i would look at getting the Audio-Technica AT2005USB

It's a good starting mic and can stick with you for a while cause it does support XLR if you decide to get a Mix board or or a simple XLR-USB interface. Other wise even using USB it does a great job in my book. Sure there are better options out there, but will require more hardware than just the MIC it self.

Would this be fine without a mixer or no? https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2005USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B007JX8O0Y

I recently got the AT2005usb and I LOVE it. I got it for around $58, but it is back up to 80. Keep an eye on it though, if it's available in your country and the price goes down, I highly recommend. I switched from a snowball. I didn't like it much. Also, the channel Podcastage on YouTube has reviews for a lot of mics, cheap ones included. Maybe watch some of his reviews and see if something tickles your fancy.

EDIT: I've seen the at2005usb go below 50. It's a matter of patients.

Don't get a Yeti. Get an Audio Technica AT2005 microphone.

Almost any veteran podcaster here will tell you do NOT get a Yeti or Blue Snowball for your first mic. They somehow are more well-known and do better marketing, but you're much, much better off with an Audio Technica mic.

Im glad you liked the show!

Im using the Audio-Technica ATR2100

The Audio-Technica AT2005 is the same mic just looks different.

Get a COMREX bitches! :D

http://www.comrex.com/products/bric-link-ii/

You can get a CHEAP piece of crap mic that will do wonders for responsiveness.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JX8O0Y/ref=pd_cp_0_4

you can even do a software solution rather than a comrex.

http://feenphone.com

then skype, mumble, all sorts of others.

Even just a smartphone, the mics in those are good enough for fairly high def recording, enough that you can tell the RPM of an engine pretty well up to around 14-16k RPMs.

Really no reason to be smashing things through a shitty uLaw/muLaw filter when you've got digital multiplexing and CPU power to burn. The dialogix codec is older than dinosaur shit, and you can still get ok sound out of crap bandwidth.

I think you could get ok audio, about 5 hours worth transfered over a 28.8k connection in under an hour. Once wavelets got onto the scene you could do even better than that, but there was no point. They were using that tech to do 160x100 pixel video over 28.8k connections, and audio, meh, just use any crap codec, as long as it'll sync with the video steams. Welcome to the hell that was RealPlayer 3

So, I'd say its more a level of lazy, and everyone just got into the inertia of being used to crap audio.

Condenser mics are good for picking up a lot of people, but they also create a lot of background noise too. I used a condenser for 2 years, we JUST made the switch. Now i use 4 dynamic mics, via an xlr to USB interface. We record in adobe audition. Even if you dont record in it, i recommend learning it and running your audio through it for post editing. ill link all my useful stuff and equipment. These will all be amazon links.

The Mics

Good Mic Stands for cheap

interface

if you go through the trouble of learning audition this is helpful. This is the algorithm the Game Grumps use, i cannot state enough what an amazingly drastic quality difference this makes. it raises the lows, lowers the highs, evens it all out.

Dynamic Audio Processing Chart

​

I should mention that to record multiple mic inputs, you need either an additional sound card, or the ASIO4ALL driver (which hogs your soundcard making it so you cant hear your game, booo.) The alternate solution i went for is recording the audio on another PC.

​

If you're recording with lots of people, to avoid audio spillover (one person being picked up on another's mic) you want to record with each track at the near lowest possible Gain/Volume/Db, and raise it all later. this will make the mics only pick up the voice right in front of them. I usually also angle all the mics in a way that they face only their speaker, but not others. I can elaborate on this further if you like. Then i run it all thru the Dynamic Processing. I think that about covers the gist of it, sorry for how detailed it was lol. If anyone is curious, i can give good tips on creating thumbnails, info about how i make my art and music, how i edit my videos and general technique too, when i have time

Lookin' great! I have a pair of black LS50 on my computer desk, too. I'm driving them with Outlaw monoblocks. Couldn't be more pleased.

If your foam pads wear down or start to fray, check out the IsoAcoustics stands. They work great for my LS50 or just about any desktop speaker setup.

https://www.amazon.com/IsoAcoustics-ISO-L8R155-Medium-Acoustic-Isolation/dp/B008GOP79G/ref=sr_1_5?crid=WJXH426SFSRM&keywords=isoacoustics&qid=1563132509&s=gateway&sprefix=isoa%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-5

Gerne. Ich bin halt kein Tontechniker, also hoff ich, dass ich das auch richtig erklären kann.

Nahfeldmonitore sind eine Bauart von Studiomonitoren, die dafür gebaut sind, dass man mehr oder weniger direkt davor sitzt. Es gibt andere Bauformen auch, die stehen dann weiter weg und sind glaub ich besser, aber für daheim ungeeignet, weil man kaum genug Platz dafür hat.

Dreieck-Positionierung heisst, dass die Monitore und der Kopf ein gleichschenkliges Dreieck bilden. Also sollten beide gleich weit von den Ohren entfernt sein (und auf die Ohren zielen).

FLAC ist eine Lossless-Komprimierung, also so ähnlich wie ZIP, nur für Audio-Daten.

Das wichtigste sind natürlich gute Lautsprecher. HiFi-Lautsprecher haben meistens kein flaches Frequenzspektrum, das heisst sie sind bei manchen Frequenzen lauter als bei anderen. HiFi-Equipment hat meistens auch Filter eingebaut, damit die Höhen und Tiefen lauter sind. Man nennt das "schönen", weil für uns das oberflächlich besser klingt, aber wenn man genau hinhört, merkt man, dass dadurch das Signal eigentlich verzerrt wird. Neutrale Lautsprecher (Studiomonitore) sind für genaues hinhören einfach besser.

Das nächste ist das Entkoppeln. Wenn ein Lautsprecher auf dem Tisch steht, schwingt nämlich der Tisch mit, da der Körperschall übertragen wird. Das verzerrt das Frequenzbild auch, da jeder Körper (also auch jeder Tisch und so weiter) eine natürliche Resonanzfrequenz hat und dadurch diese Frequenz lauter wird, während andere dafür leiser werden. Dazu gibts verschiedene Sachen - Ständer, Schaumblöcke und so weiter. Ich hab Ständer, die schauen auch hübsch aus und machen einen guten Job.

Der letzte wichtige Punkt hat mit dem Raum zu tun, und zwar geht es um sogenannte Kammfiltereffekte. Wenn beide Lautsprecher z.B. unterschiedlich weit vom Ohr entfernt sind, kommt das Signal zu dir auf einer Seite mit Verzögerung an. Da Musik aus vielen verschiedenen Schwingungen besteht, heisst das, dass sich bei einigen Frequenzen dann die Spitzen und die Täler der Schwingung gegeneinander verschieben - manche löschen sich aus, manche verstärken sich, das hängt von der Wellenlänge der einzelnen Frequenzen ab. Deshalb sollten beide Monitore gleich weit vom Kopf entfernt sein.

Solche Kammfiltereffekte gibt es auch, wenn das Signal über eine Wand reflektiert wird und somit zweimal hintereinander das Ohr erreicht - einmal direkt, und einmal über den weiteren Weg via Wand. Damit verstärken sich dann auch gewissen Frequenzen und andere löschen sich gegenseitig aus. Deshalb ist es wichtig, dass die Monitore direkt auf die Ohren zielen und die Reflektionen über die Wände minimiert werden. Das geht, in dem man Akustikschaumstoff-Platten auf die Wände klebt.

Ich würd mal sagen für den Hausgebrauch reichen gute Lautsprecher und Entkoppelung eh aus, das mit dem Schaumstoff ist ein riesiger Aufwand.

Die hier sollen ziemlich gut sein (ich hab andere, die schon ein bissl älter sind). Für Entkoppelung hab ich das hier, gibt aber auch billigere Alternativen.

Looks like these
https://www.amazon.com/IsoAcoustics-ISO-L8R155-Medium-Acoustic-Isolation/dp/B008GOP79G/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=desktop+speaker+stands&qid=1566431287&s=gateway&sr=8-6

Start off with one of these under your sub and if you do desk stands a pair of these under your monitors.

If you build your own stands remember that sound is a type of radiation so you can use a lot of one material or a little of several types to stop it from translating. IE if you use wood to make your stands you will need dense, heavy, thick pieces. BUT if you do a metal pole, mounted to a cement base, with a wooden pad for the monitor with foam/rubber/denim on it, it will be much more effective.

Sorbotane pads are useful to isolate the speakers, so while I do advise you get some(these would be fine), you'll want to add enough height underneath them so that the midpoint between the tweeter and woofer is at your ear's level. A lot of people are happy with these stands, which isolate as well, eliminating the need for pads.

An alternative is to tilt them upwards: https://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-Desktop-Speaker-Stands-Pair/dp/B005STCILC but it's not as good.

Ahh yeah same depth as what I’ve got, just looks different!

Any kind of padding or iso stands helps a ton. I got these from IsoAcoustics, they make different size models for different size monitors. I’ve got old Yamaha HS50M’s which are the same as HS5’s so I got the middle size. Super sturdy and they have two different leg lengths to adjust height, and insets to tilt them up or down depending on where your ear level is.

(ISO-L8R155 Medium)[https://www.amazon.com/IsoAcoustics-ISO-L8R155-Medium-Acoustic-Isolation/dp/B008GOP79G]

The Medium is the one you want. There about a 2 cm hang-off front to back and maybe 3-4mm hang-off side to side.

One of the most immediate improvements I noticed. Took care of any muddiness I was hearing.

With my chair height, my ears end up sitting slightly lower than tweeter level at the shortest stand height of the isoAcoustics. They provide a pair of wedge inserts (in two different heights) to allow you to tilt the speakers base platform.

I have mine set to where the rear portion of the stand is elevated by about 7 mm (smaller of the two wedge inserts) compared to the front portion. Lines the tweeters right with at ear level in my listening position. It's great.

I have some Adam F5's speakers and they are excellent, really excellent active speakers and I use them on my desktop too. Have you thought about these - https://www.amazon.co.uk/IsoAcoustics-Studio-Monitor-Stand-ISO-L8R/dp/B008GOP79G , as they are supposed to make quite a difference.

How do you like those stands?

I was debating between those and the IsoAcoustics and went with the Iso's instead.

http://www.amazon.com/Adam-Hall-SPADECO2-Monitor-Isolation/dp/B007YFWUDO/

http://www.amazon.com/IsoAcoustics-ISO-L8R155-Medium-Pair/dp/B008GOP79G/

Single biggest improvement I’ve made. Not just getting the monitors to the right height but isolating them from my desk... before that some frequencies were being amplified by the desk.

Sit on the desk and take less space than the speakers.

IsoAcoustics ISO-L8R155 Medium Acoustic Isolation Stands (pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008GOP79G

There are different sizes, so if you get them make sure you get the right size.

what about the Vanatoo Transparent One? I've done some more research and that seems to be an option you can't go wrong with in the $500 budget range

by the way, Arve recommended I hold off on the sub as well. he said that in my range, the sub should cost as much as my speakers, what do you think? $500 sub? good god. he also recommended some speaker stands but they're $100!

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008GOP79G

I compared this and the vanatoo transparent one dimensions and they don't seem to match up..what's the deal there?

Thanks. Any thoughts on these speaker stands? I figured right now, my tweeters are about a foot below my ears and these would raise them about 8 inches higher, then I supposed I could tilt them up a tad.

I just received a pair of JBL LSR305s for my birthday. I am wondering what the best way is to raise them off on my carpet so I can use them while I use my TV.

I am lost as to what I should purchase. There are dozens of options for stands on Amazon, some with carpet spikes (I have carpet) and some without. What't the benefit of having these spikes?

If I eventually want to put them on my computer desk setup, should I go with something like these that I can use in my TV room and on my desk? But they are a little pricey.

I got these make sure to check the dimensions of the speakers before you pick which one to get. These stands are rubber mounted to absorb alot of the vibration the speaker would send to a desk. They really do make a clear difference.

I ordered the peachtree after quite a few articles I read said that you can connect an external dac to your iPhone if the dac is externally powered. I will give you an update on how it sounds!

I measured my ear vs tweeter height and it looks like i need to bring my speakers up about 8 or 9 inches. Do you have a recommendation for a short desk speaker stand? Here is one that keeps popping up when I search. Any thoughts?

I'm using isoacoustics stand.

Nice setup man!

If you're trying to get better performance out of your loudspeakers, I highly recommend getting them on some stands. You want your tweeters to be at ear-level or close enough that you can tilt the speakers a bit to make a difference. This is because treble is very directional. The other reason that stands make a big difference is mechanical isolation. When your speaker cabinets make direct contact with your desk, their vibrations transfer out of the cabinets and into your furniture, which muddies up the sound.

If you want something cheap, AudioEngine DS2's would probably do the job. If you want something a bit better where you can tweak it a bit more to your liking, I highly recommend getting a pair of IsoAcoustics stands. I was able to A-B several loudspeakers on and off of the stands before I bought them, and they make a very noticeable difference. They come with 2 different heights of poles as well as two different size spacers for fine tuning or tilting. The correct size for your monitors according to the IsoAcoustics site would be a pair of ISO-L8R155's.

All right, here's the conundrum:

I need an external USB DAC/ head + mic amp for my work laptop:

Budget (very small) ~50-80$/euros

Has to be an improvement over default Lenovo T440p audio - lenovo doesn't even list the name of the bloody thing, stating that's it's "Dolby"... Device manager likewise states a generic Realtek HD driver.

Headset: Sennheiser game zero 50ohm

Problem: I've recently purchased Sennheiser game zero headset as a replacement for the company provided Plantronics crap. I know I like the cans, and having forced my friend to buy pc350 and recently pc360 sets, I know i like the microphone. All good here. But on the company laptop the microphone is absolutely horrible. Laptop has the silly combo console-style headset jack, and while the headset has a separate cable for the combo jack, by all accounts my voice sounds extremely flat, weak and distant compared to 40$ plantronics usb headset. Windows audio input settings don't fix the issue, but can introduce background noise.

Now I need a budget external dac, that won't make my ears bleed and will allow me to fix the microphone input issue.

Search for similiar issues I've found https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q502USB-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B00CTKI10A but it appears to be all about mixing and nothing about DACing, unless my impression is wrong. There's also https://www.amazon.co.uk/Creative-Sound-Blaster-System-Preamp/dp/B00GMDWNJK but I've found some worrying accounts of it freezing when the mic input is used.

Any suggestions?

Ok, I googled this a bit and found an audacity plugin that seems to be decent, but would require I separate the audio from the video then put it back together, this seems like it'll be a lot more time consuming than I'd like.

So I went down the hardware path a bit, I'm really not sure that I'm on the right trail, but is this something that would do it?

Behringer Xenyx Q502USB

If that's the case, you might be better off buying active powered PA speakers. Most home theater speakers aren't going to be able to handle the volume you're probably going to throw at them. You won't have to buy a receiver either, because these speakers have their own power source.

These speakers would be good, and you'd need a mixer like this (and power supply to hook your source up to, using this cable.

We had a system similar to this in our frat house in college, and those speakers were just about indestructible and ridiculously loud. You can also add a subwoofer (or two) if you want.

Edit: Forgot about speaker cables.

You can also skip the mixer and just directly hook up your audio source to the speakers using this.

It depends what you're wanting the mic for. And XLR setup is more expensive upfront, but it is better. The mics are essentially the same, the difference with XLR is that you have more control over the mic. You can also have filters and compressors depending on your mixer. My mixer is quite basic BUT has a compressor and equalizer on it so if I yell really loud, it wont get distorted like a USB mic would. That alone is worth the extra cost, imo.

My mixer: http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q502USB-5-Channel-Mixer/dp/B00CTKI10A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462723975&sr=8-1&keywords=Behringer+Q502usb

No one's mentioned the bias power required by the electret mic element. These types of mics require +3 to 9 VDC to power the FET inside the mic. This voltage is usually supplied by the computer's Mic Input jack. (also supplied by phone's headphone jack on a TRRS connection). The headphone jack can just be adapter to 1/4 inch and use the headphone output of the mixer (https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-GPM-103-3-5-inch-Adaptor/dp/B000068O3T/ref=sr_1_6?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1475092197&sr=1-6&keywords=1%2F8+to+1%2F4)

A direct connection (passive) XLR adapter will not work, and if you turn on Phantom Power from the mixer you may damage the mic.

The Rode VXLR has a battery in it, so the passive adapter still works. You need something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Phantom-Power-Adapter-for-Sennheiser-3-5mm-Jack-Lapel-Lavalier-Microphones-/291526821026?hash=item43e05a44a2:g:ZyoAAOSwDNdVuW99

It takes 48V Phantom power from the Focusrite (or whichever mixer you use) and adapts it to the 3VDC you need to run the mic. Plus is does the connector change too. Now this one is a Chinese knock off, and sold to work with Sennheiser mics which come with 1/8 connectors, so no guarantee.

Also, I don't have a recommendation for anything cheeper than the Focusrite, but they make 'em. It really depends how many setups like this you'll be running at one time. If its just one, and you don't really care about high end voice quality, then there's ones like this: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q502USB-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B00CTKI10A/ref=pd_lpo_267_lp_img_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SCHZQ7YJFT6Z4EQKCVKA

I have the same microphone and I use this:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-502-Premium-5-Input-British/dp/B000J5UEGQ
And this:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/

That would be good if you have a line in input on your computer (the blue one)

If not, this would work if you don't mind loosing a USB port:
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q502USB-Xenyx/dp/B00CTKI10A/

That's actually a good idea that I hadn't thought of at all. I'll look into that. Do I need to look out for anything specific? Could I use this? Cause I still have one of those somewhere.

Behringer Xenyx Q502USB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CTKI10A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-4kwCbC92NFMT

This is my exact mixer. To give you an idea of how it's all layed out and what it has

OK awesome, thank you I will keep that in mind a long with the picture / diagram that I made. Looks like I will be investing in a smaller sound mixer - Are you aware of one any smaller / essential for this task other then the Behringer q502 USB?
ORRRRRR
Wouldn't the Behringer 1202USB Sound Mixer allow me to use the microphone pass through AND the whole task I am trying to get right now at the same time on this sound mixer?

You could probably use a small usb interface to run your audio into the PC and also output it into the controller. Something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q502USB-Xenyx/dp/B00CTKI10A/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1549080657&sr=1-1&keywords=xenyx+usb

I've been hearing the latest Windows 10 update hasn't been playing nice with Focusrite's USB interfaces. Can't confirm, I am Mac based and I love Focusrite's products, so I don't want to bash them. They make amazing products.

Just throwing this out there, however... adding just an USB interface may not satisfy the upgrade bug if the sound is already acceptable.

Regardless, there are lots of other options to act as a preamp (volume controller) in the middle, perhaps with additional inputs and outputs, headphone amplifiers, Microphone inputs, and/or the ability to to add some EQ. Below are just some examples I've found that all have balanced outputs (either XLR or 1/4" (TRS)) and these all have USB interfaces (DACs) built in too for direct PC/Mac connectivity! -

-------------------


DJ style mixers:

• https://www.amazon.com/Numark-Professional-Four-Channel-Metering-Channel/dp/B0041206UW (Has balanced XLR outputs, just not shown in Amazon's photos)
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-VMX1000USB-BEHRINGER-PRO-MIXER/dp/B003E1LEBG
  
  -
  
  Desk style mixers:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-PROFX8V2-8-Channel-Compact-Effects/dp/B00VUU77XW
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-X1204USB-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B0039PPW60
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q802USB-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B008O517IC
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q502USB-Xenyx/dp/B00CTKI10A
  
  -
  
  Monitor controllers:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-MONITOR2USB-BEHRINGER/dp/B01DV237NA (My pick for a nice inexpensive monitor controller)
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-BIG-KNOB-STUDIO-Studio/dp/B01N9QNWRY
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-CONTROL2USB-BEHRINGER-Power-amplifiers-Black/dp/B01KJ28QZE (Not a "Power Amplifier" as shown in the URL text)
  
  -
  
  Other style interfaces:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56EA (the 2i2 or above is the affordable industry standard)
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-M-Track-2X2-Interface-24-bit/dp/B01FFH5XMC
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Native-Instruments-Interface-Recording-Production/dp/B004YPRPJ6
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC22-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00FFIGZF6
  

I don't think it would make that much of a difference (if any) if you were to use either the PS4 or TV SPDIF.


 


I have my PS4, XBOX, TV, etc. going to my powered monitors via a mixer.



This is connected to my TV. - SPDIF DAC

Which goes to this. But you don't really need it unless you have multiple sources you want to easily switch to. - RCA Switch


Switch is connected to this. - USB Mixer


Or you can get the smaller version.

Or one cheaper without the USB.

This is the Mic and the power amp is here

Recording on a budget with an XLR mic needs at minimum a mic preamp circuit and some level adjustment. See this option. To get everything into a computer with one piece step up to this for a few dollars more

Edit: this option is even cheaper.

The Scarlett Audio interface is a better option but twice the money.

If you want to stick to Behringer, look at something like this instead. You want something that has an XLR input for your ATR 2100 and has USB out to get to the computer. I can't speak to the quality of the pre-amp in that, but honestly, I'd guess it's not great. Alternatively, you might consider this one which I'm guessing has a better pre-amp, but I don't know. I really have no experience with their products.

If you want something with more inputs and flexibility, I'm pretty sure the 802 (as /u/fridaynightarcade has mentioned) gets used fairly frequently in here to good reviews. That is more expensive and has more inputs, but it also provides room for growth if you're ever planning on adding more people/microphones/audio sources to your stuff.

Definitely go with something XLR based, since USB usually can't offer the same quality at the same price (even for a whole setup.)

Though I say that ATR2100 is something I keep recommending because it is both XLR and USB, and has very good quality (per quick youtube search) for the price. It's also a dynamic microphone, so it will pick up less background noise and other things dynamic mics do.

As for a stand I have been using this boom arm for almost two years, and have absolutely no issues with it except for a minor squeak when putting it away (not really an issue you're going to have if you're using it) and as much as people like them, pop filters are not really neccisary, just talk with the mic a bit to the side and you're fine (don't waste the $8 I did).

All in all both the atr2100 and the stand will run you about $100, and it is pretty damn good quality for that price.

I would reccomend an XLR interface in the future though, since they do live mixing, built in EQ, better gain control, better sound quality, and a built in DAC for your headphones, but that's around $50-$80 for either of my decent interface choices: the Q802USB Which I am currently using, or a Q502USB which If it's anything like the 802 is cheaper and just as good (albiet with less inputs, but you probably don't need 8 inputs).

How about this setup?

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2035-Diaphragm-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B00D6RMFG6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1453596213&sr=8-2&keywords=microphone+audio+technica

http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q502USB-5-Channel-Mixer/dp/B00CTKI10A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1426532990&sr=8-3&keywords=behringer+xenyx+usb

That would be just over $200. But how does the interface connect to the computer? Is it just USB or some audio jack?

You need two 1/4 inch TRS cables like these

a mixer/sound card is required, and if you're connecting to your computer A usb mixer would make everything much simpler. But, if you want balanced (XLR) connections, I'd look to get the Q802 for ~20 bucks more. If you plan on using longer cables, the balanced outputs of the Q802 could help reduce noise (which the LSR-305s already have enough of).

Then you just plug the TRS cables to the 1/4 inch "MAIN OUT" on the Q502, then connect to the 1/4 inch unbalanced input on the back of the 305s, and you're set.

60$ https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q502USB-Xenyx/dp/B00CTKI10A/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1508983694&sr=1-1&keywords=q502usb

80$. https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q802USB-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B008O517IC/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1508983894&sr=1-1&keywords=q802usb




These are pretty good, second one brings a compressor built in. I personally use (100$)https://www.guitarcenter.com/Alesis/Mixers.gc#/Alesis/MultiMix-4-USB-FX-4-Channel-Mixer-with-Effects-USB-Audio-Interface.gc

Idk any of under 30$ but

[This]
(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CTKI10A/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_pa_3?pf_rd_p=1944687582&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000J5UEGQ&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=01WDPEDR207DHMSRH7G3)

will work

https://www.amazon.com/InnoGear-Condenser-Microphone-Recording-Equipment/dp/B00KAPGLQC/ref=pd_sim_267_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00KAPGLQC&pd_rd_r=HNA0G96WDPHBT08VG159&pd_rd_w=bdRjM&pd_rd_wg=xQvDx&psc=1&refRID=HNA0G96WDPHBT08VG159

And the cables are male to female on either end, and plug into this phantom power just fine. Not sure what else you need besides that. That's all it came with.

Your microphone requires power. I had this same issue then i bought my condenser mic. Something like this will work fine. https://www.amazon.com/InnoGear-Condenser-Microphone-Recording-Equipment/dp/B00KAPGLQC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484280909&sr=8-1&keywords=innogear+ig101

Do you have it set up as shown in the third picture down on this Amazon listing?

If so then it could just be that the camera has a higher gain input than your PC. A different (more sensitive) sound card may fix this.

Either this power supply:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAPGLQC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HDNFybXP32WJY

Or this interface:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EK1OTZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OENFyb8GZ7EQD

For a condenser mic yes, for a dynamic no.

You can use one of these to power a condenser.

Edit: added link to stand alone phantom power box.

https://www.amazon.com/InnoGear-Condenser-Microphone-Recording-Equipment/dp/B00KAPGLQC
here's the link to the one I have.

I tried plugging it in directly with the XLR to 3.5mm but again it just doesn't show up as a device on Windows. :( I just don't have any idea what to do.

Thanks for the tip. My current goal is to buy the ATR2100 along with this little device that's only $20 but seems to work quite well.

Ok, to fix your phantom power dilemma, try this: http://www.amazon.com/InnoGear%C2%AE-Condenser-Microphone-Recording-Equipment/dp/B00KAPGLQC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462236977&sr=8-1&keywords=phantom+power+box

Then as far as audio, listen to people when they say keep it coming from HDMI. Or you can turn it OFF the HDMI in OBS and use the mixer USB but you'll need to use something like an hdmi audio demuxer to bring it into the switch OR even better, run it out the TOSLink digtal port to the mixer with something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/AutoWT-Digital-Optical-Converter-Standard/dp/B011O0N0UQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462237130&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=optical+to+analog+audio&psc=1

Sorry, I think there is a misunderstanding. I meant that I am using this http://www.amazon.com/InnoGear%C2%AE-Condenser-Microphone-Recording-Equipment/dp/B00KAPGLQC# which should work

The Behringer Micromix would sort of work for this application if you got one of these for each mic: http://www.amazon.com/InnoGear%C2%AE-Condenser-Microphone-Recording-Equipment/dp/B00KAPGLQC/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1462939211&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=Ino+gear+48v they act as a 48v power supply for the mic which can then be used to output to your Micromix if you also have XLR to Quarter Inch adapters.

When you talk about a preamp is it something like this ? that could be connect to a sound card usb adapter like this ?

This combined with an InnoGear Phantom Power Supply works really great as a starter kit. I bought it some weeks ago, and I was really surprised of the quality of the mic. To the price I thought it would be really horrible with all the other things that comes in the package, but it's really great. Works wonders especially if you have a good soundboard on your motherboard. The pop filter is really tricky to put on since it has a weird shape for it's clamp, so I bought this mudder pop filter and it fits perfectly on the mic. If you're on a budget or just don't want to go full ham with your blue yetis or other super fancy mics, then these items can be recommended for an aspiring streamer :)


But it's a really good guide you have made here, thank you! :D

Edit: the phantom power supply is from the uk, so you'll need a converter for it to work with your power outlet if you don't live in the uk. Else any other phantom power supply should work just as fine. There's not an XLR cable included in the kit, but they're pretty cheap and can be found in almost every electronics store or music department.

Newbie here.

I picked up


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006H92QK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


for my PC mic. I am aware that I need a 48V Phantom PS to use this. I'm looking at

https://www.amazon.com/InnoGear-Condenser-Microphone-Recording-Equipment/dp/B00KAPGLQC/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1473618498&sr=1-1&keywords=48v+phantom+power+supply


My question is do I just go with a XLR to USB converter from that power supply right into my PC? Or are there better options out there?

Exactly the type of answer I was looking for. Thank you, However it seems as if now my headset for which I use to game with is also now broken so this makes my budget much tighter. I Don't know if I should go with getting my AT2020 the proper set up to get me going or if I should buy a new headset. I may end up going with the icicle again. I'm not sure. Have you ever tried one of these weird box things I was thinking of using that to power my mic and then buy an XLR to USB or XLR to 3.5mm but I don't know how good of an idea that is. I don't 100% trust this thing. It is advertised as transferring to a sound card/mixer but I don't know if it will work with the cable I mentioned.

You have three problems to solve to do this:

1. As others have mentioned, you need phantom power. Something like this can provide that:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAPGLQC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kXA2CbZFFCSM7
   
   
2. Your amp has a high impedance input so you need a converter:
   
   http://livewire-usa.com/ssqxfhz/
   
   
3. Any overdrive on your amp/pedals is going to want to make this mic feedback like crazy. You’ll need to do your best to keep the back of the mic pointed at the amp and/or isolate the amp in another room and use headphones.

Don't laugh, I've been using the logitech guitar hero mic because I can't get the condenser to have sound, but I'll list what I have for the ACTUAL set up.

Videos, mostly youtube/advocacy content, in the future there may be podcasts. Mostly spoken content, which is why I went condenser, all the research I did suggested this for talking. I also have a pop screen (not sure if you consider that relevant, but being thorough).

This phantom
https://www.amazon.ca/InnoGear-Condenser-Microphone-Recording-Equipment/dp/B00KAPGLQC

This mic (or very similar):
https://www.amazon.ca/Professional-Broadcasting-Recording-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B00X9OM4BW/ref=sr_1_13?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1500311177&sr=1-13&keywords=bm+800

Line-in from the phantom thinger to my iMac (late 2011)

Garageband to record.

By the way, thanks so much. This is by far the most supportive, helpful, and kind r/ I've ever been to!

So what is a Phantom Power? I found this

Here's what I use:

Behringer C-1

Innogear phantom power

Rolls MinimixII

I also run the minimix into a Korg Kaoss Pad Mini-KP to add effects and just play around with.

Instead of the USB, you can use the analog line-in or mic-in on your mobo, which will probably allow you to achieve a higher sample rate than USB. You'll also need to make sure that you have all the wires you need, and that they are long enough. Also, while most mixers with an XLR input will claim to carry phantom power on-board, you'll want to make sure that it provides the ample voltage for your microphone.

Hey! So I'm finally going out and getting a Pre-Amp for my mic. I was planning on getting the Behringer U-Phoria UM2, but I'm not sure about it. Do you have any suggestions for a good Pre-Amp that would work with my mic? Just for a refresher, since this was two months ago...

Microphone: Neewer NW-700

Phantom PSU: InnoGear 48V Phantom Power Supply

Soon to be Preamplifier: Behringer U-Phoria UM2

It includes an A-D converter and +20db fixed amplification. Hardly the best thing on the market but it would technically work.

However you would still need to provide 48v Phantom Power. You could use a box like this to do it.

Ya my mic pre should provide phantom power right? https://www.amazon.com/InnoGear-Condenser-Microphone-Recording-Equipment/dp/B00KAPGLQC it is this one if you would like to know.

Will plugging the mic via XLR cable to this guy, www.amazon.com/InnoGear®-Condenser-Microphone-Recording-Equipment/dp/B00KAPGLQC/ref=redir_mobiledesktop?ie=UTF8&ref=s9_top_hm_boF8F_g267_i1,

And then plugging XLR to 1/8 directly into my computer...will that work?

The big difference between the two is going to be that the SM58 is a dynamic microphone and the BM-700/800s are condenser microphones.

Advantages of a dynamic microphone generally are that they can tolerate being used in very loud settings and they don't require +48v (phantom power). Disadvantages are typically that they don't tend to be as "detailed", high end is often lacking (especially on something like an SM58 that has a built in windscreen). Also, the reason they can typically handle being used in loud settings is because that is essentially how they work. You are physically having to move a coil with sound pressure. In order for that to happen, it is going to typically require a reasonably loud source (great for guitar amps, drums, sometimes vocals).

Advantages of a condenser is that they tend to be a bit more "detailed" or more "clear" sounding than dynamic mics. High end is usually a lot more present and they are great at picking up much quieter noises. Instead of having to move a giant coil with sound pressure, you are making a small piece of thin metal vibrate (great for vocals, strings, acoustic guitars, piano, etc.).

Disadvantages of a condenser mic are that they typically cannot handle being thrown in front of something really loud. Fancier condensers will have built in pads to reduce gain, but looking at those BM-700s, that isn't a feature you will be getting. Also, condensers are going to require +48v of power (phantom power), which your Tascam doesn't have. It would require something additional, like this (https://www.amazon.com/InnoGear-Condenser-Microphone-Recording-Equipment/dp/B00KAPGLQC/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1502757851&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=phantom+power&psc=1)

Phantom power supplies aren't terribly expensive, and they will always serve a purpose. Especially if you continue using that Tascam or other fancier Tascam units. I only have experience with the Tascam MidiStudio 688, but it is one of their better options and doesn't have it. It's possible the PortaStudios have it, but I don't believe they do.

As far as mic stands go, that should be pretty universal. The mics appear to come with their own shock mounts (likely what you mean by 'fancy holder'), which will just attach to the mic stand. You shouldn't have any issues there. My only suggestion would be to get one on a tripod that has an arm (boom stand). Some of the stands i've picked up on Amazon are extremely light. Many people suggest making sure you seal off the bottom of the main pipe and then filling a bit of it with sand to add some extra weight. I haven't had to go that far, but just be careful with how far you try to get the arm to reach.

Not having used the BM-700 / 800, I can't specifically recommend them, but like most microphones, you can likely find something cool to do with them, even if they don't sound 'good'. Back at the studio I worked at we had this junky little RadioShack microphone that looked like a Transformers action figure. The thing sounded horrible on its own, but made for a really badass room mic when recording drums.

Most likely in this case you will get what you pay for. A $25 condenser likely isn't the highest of quality, but that being said, it may not be that bad and might work better on things like guitars and vocals than the SM58. Worst case scenario is you are out $25 and have an extra mic laying around that may not be your 'go-to' mic, but could come in handy at some point.

Hope that helps. Let me know if you still have questions.

Let me start by saying I highly recommend going the route the other commenter said and buying the audio interface - it will save you a lot of headache and is the proper solution for this. However if you still really want to use that sound adapter with that mic you will need this to be able to get a signal: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAPGLQC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_KMu.AbYYXBWAS Plug the XLR to 1/8” that came with your microphone on the output and plug the other end into the sound adapter. Then plug the included XLR from the input of the power supply to the microphone. Disclaimer: You may have hums and hisses doing this and that is why it is better to go the interface route. Plus your trusting cheap electronics to not send 48v directly to your computer and fry the whole damn thing just to save about $80.

Sounds like a good idea, but unfortunately I live in Canada. Samson mics are $80+, the Blue Snowball iCE is $60, and the cheapest good mic setup I could find (cheapest good mic + cheapest phantom power + cheapest good stand) is $85.

I'm mic-tarded but I'm pretty sure those are my cheapest options, all of which I'd rather DIY some cup or something instead.

Hello! As of now i have a BM-800 condenser microphone and the philips shp 9500 as my head phones. Both of these go straight into my mobo (i use this pre amp for mic Link) and they sound solid but im wanting the best (or a good upgrade). Would getting a scarlet solo be worth the cost as an upgrade to my audio setup? I could use it as an pre amp for my mic and Dac for my headphones right? I need suggestions please help me im kind of an audio noob. Thanks!

No, you'd need either a dedicated phantom power provider, like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAPGLQC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Or, better yet, a preamp that provides phantom power AND increases the gain, which makes you louder. Otherwise, you'll sound like you're whispering even when you're shouting, and you'll have to use the computer's built-in gain amplification, which will introduce static and make you sound bad.

So get this instead:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008879GO8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You also need an XLR female-to-female cable to connect your mic to the preamp, and then an XLR to 3.5mm(?) cable to go from your preamp to your computer. The phantom power supply that I linked you should come with the first cable, and the second cable should come with your microphone. You can just buy the first cable separately.

The setup I have is almost the same as this (just different mic (Floureon BM-800)), and I get compliments on my audio quality whenever I use it for phone calls, online games, or youtube videos so you should be good.

Taking the route of a condenser microphone is more costly and technical than just getting a usb mic, which is an all-in-one plug-and-play solution, and the quality difference isn't that dramatic, so it's your choice.

Hey, I know I'm hitting this late. I'm looking to start a DnD play podcast with a few friends of mine. I'm totally new to audio recording though and would love some advice on getting recording gear. I was looking at mics and equipment and found a really good deal on some very cheap mic sets, and also know I'll probably need Phantom power and a mixer.
Do you think I could get away with starting with this stuff I've picked out (I've gone cheap because I'm very new at this) or is there other stuff you would recommend? Also ,is there anything I'm missing or should I be able to plug this stuff into a PC and record? OH! I almost forgot, I'm getting 3 mics to record 5 people, do you think that's enough or should I plan on one mic per person? Thank you for taking the time to read this!
Stuff I'm planning on buying:
Mixer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QDN6Z83/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ALJSAJJCN3221&psc=1
Mic Set : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0756V2B6R/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=AVM8BIH53RWJ1&psc=1
Phantom Power : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAPGLQC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2HC58KVPP5OOH&psc=1

Hello,
I have recently received the at2020 microphone and today I connected everything. I connected the phantom PSU to a socket, the xlr to xlr cable to the phantom PSU and to my microphone, and then I connected this xlr to 3.5mm jack cable from my PSU to the PC. So, I turned on my PC, turned on the PSU, and decided to test it by recording my voice. This is going to be hard to explain, but when I played the recording I heard a static type noise for a split second and then I heard my voice (which was extremely quiet, barely audible). Please help. I don't know what to do at all since I don't have much experience with microphones. I hope my microphone isn't broken.
P.S: I HAVE NOT configured anything with the microphone. I simply plugged everything in and tested it. I didn't configure it because I was not sure that this was necessary. Is it?
Also, I do have a recording of what the microphone sounded like. Please let me know if you would like me to link it.
Below I have linked all the parts that I bought.
Phantom PSU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAPGLQC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Microphone: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MSYF0BH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
XLR-to-3.55mm cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068NZD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAPGLQC/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IUS7RSG/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DY1F2CS/

I also needed a 5/8 Male to 1/4 Female mic screw to mount to mic to the arm properly, which wasn't included. Got that for $5 on Ebay, there's tons of sellers.

Quick update - I tried hooking up both mics, but ASIO couldnt find the AUX mic. Apparently that's because it doesn't have enough power or something. I'll probably end up ordering this.

Just curious, (and you probably know), why does the AUX mic need power, but the snowball doesn't? Is it because USB also transmits power?

you can get really nice monitor speakers in that budget. For starters: https://www.amazon.com/Micca-PB42X-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00NXAEPDC

https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR4-Pair-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4O

I have the Mackies and think they are awesome but people in similar situations to us prefer the Miccas.

What would you guys recommend between these two powered speakers?

Mackie CR4

Micca PB42X

Why would you recommend these specific pair of speakers?
Would you recommend any other?
(I see why they're so good, but I want to know how you came across them and what your thoughts are on them)
> Mackie CR4 Powered Speakers = $150 https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR4-Pair-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4O/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1467666368&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=mackie+cr4

Im pretty illiterate when it comes so I maybe unclear but how do you attach a sub to powered speakers like the A2's or these Mackie ones I have [1]? Do you need a receiver?

[1] https://www.amazon.ca/Mackie-CR4-Pair-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4O

Nice suggestion! I love the looks of the orbit special but I think I might just go for the plus. If you have personal experience with this turntable, I'm thinking of getting the Orbit Plus with the built in Preamp.

For those with similar requests: U-turn Orbit and Mackie cr4s .

We had these in Uni for the video editing rigs, can't say I was a huge fan. They generally sounded OK but seemed to be super unreliable, in 2 years 6 of 8 pairs broke.

Personally I really like these for compact monitors: http://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR4-Pair-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4O/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1458340902&sr=1-1&keywords=mackie+cr4

I am looking at powered speakers. I will be using these mainly for listening to music in my office. Source will be my PC, and hopefully, eventually a vinyl setup. I have max $150 to spend. I am looking at a powered setup for simplicity. I could probably be swayed into an amp/non powered combo, but I think it's a stretch at $150. I need something good for all genres of music, good bass, I understand a 2.0 bookshelf setup won't be like have a separate subwoofer. I have been going back and forth among about 10 pair of speakers and I just can't make a decision.

Here's the list:

Thonet and Vander Kurbis BT Bluetooth Bookshelf Speakers, Hi-Fi Wooden Bluetooth Stereo Speakers with Enhanced Bass, 300 Watt Peak Power, Integrated Amplifier and RCA Input, 1 Pair, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HG1JOVC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DSHAzb60E38WB

Edifier R1280T Powered Bookshelf Speakers - 2.0 Active Near Field Monitors - Studio Monitor Speaker - Wooden Enclosure - 42 Watts RMS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016P9HJIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kTHAzb4S1S3GF

PreSonus Eris E4.5 2-Way Powered Studio Monitors (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GP56OYA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YTHAzbJ09ARQC

Mackie CR4 (Pair) Creative Reference Multimedia Monitor - Set of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVEIY4O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iUHAzbAVD4RB0

Edifier R1010BT - 4" Bluetooth Wireless Creative Reference Multimedia Monitors - Studio Monitor Speaker (Pair) 24 Watts RMS - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071YV97LK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zUHAzbNHTFE9G

Plugable 4" Subwoofer Bluetooth 2-Channel Powered Bookshelf Studio Monitor Speakers - Optical & RCA Aux Inputs, 55W Output Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KGPEW70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2UHAzb0R24FK0

Presonus Ceres C3.5BT 2-Way Powered Speakers with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N55NS4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uVHAzbATXGVCP


Pair Rockville APM5B 5.25" 2-Way 250W Powered USB Studio Monitor Speakers+Pads https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D3Z3FGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MVHAzbKMSC2QP


Please help me stop going in circles. I know some of these are more than $150...just hoping to catch a sale.

I just purchased a pair of Mackie CR4 4-Inch studio monitors and a pair of Audio-Technica ATH-M50s.

My goals in mind:

1. Listen to music
   
2. be able to play my USB midi keyboard monitors/headphone
   
3. play guitar through through the monitors/headphone
   
   I was wondering what a good DAC setup would be for this?
   
   Would something like the Desktop Konnekt 6 be a good recommendation as a 2in1 setup ? Because I have no clue where to begin if I were to have to seperate the two.
   
   Would I just need an external DAC for the monitors and a headphone amp for the headphones? How/Would I need to connect those two together to make them run smoother?
   
   So this is what I'm considering:
   
   Desktop Konnect 6
   
   And these are the two pieces of equipment I am trying to find the DAC setup for.
   
   Mackie CR4 monitors
   
   Audio-Technica ATH-M50x
   
   Thank you so much if anyone here is able to help!
   
   Would like to keep the budget in the Price range of the DAC I listed above

What's a good (mildly cheap) PC peripheral upgrade? I'm looking to upgrade something in my setup, either the mouse pad, audio setup, or monitor.

I'm thinking of selling my current monitor, as it's a decent 1080p monitor, but has absolutely no adjustment to anything, and is too small of a screen for me (21.5"). I'd probably go with this

I'm also considering upgrading my audio setup, with some better speakers and a DAC.

Maybe I'm just overthinking this. any thoughts?

Moving out of my small bedroom suite soon and will have my desktop PC in a separate room from the rest of my home theater system and am looking for some speakers for my desktop. Currently have a set of Focal Chorus 716V tower speakers and Klipsch KW100B subwoofer hooked up with a HK 3490 receiver that I've been using for my desktop PC and gaming consoles.

Was looking into a pair of self powered bookshelves and Have been eyeing a few basic pairs. Just saw the JBL LSR305 in the sticky and have been also looking at the [Mackie CR4] (http://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR4-Creative-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4O) mainly because I like the look of the speakers. Does anyone here have any experience with the Mackie ones? What other speakers below $400 CAD would be worth checking out?

If you can spend a wee bit more, get these

https://www.amazon.in/Mackie-CR4-Pair-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4O/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?keywords=mackie+cr3&qid=1570159989&sr=8-2-fkmr0

or these

https://www.amazon.in/Artesia-M200-Professional-Monitor-Speaker/dp/B07T3R9VDB/ref=pd_sbs_267_4/259-0362024-4948818?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07T3R9VDB&pd_rd_r=a9f0ff27-c7fd-469d-9512-d62d2a3802c5&pd_rd_w=s25Lw&pd_rd_wg=oJ8N7&pf_rd_p=b5c4df7b-dc8c-47a6-947a-01271326b67b&pf_rd_r=5TGCA86QY5EBG6J4YZH9&psc=1&refRID=5TGCA86QY5EBG6J4YZH9

They are far better than what you are considering. I have the former and they are really really good for casual listening.

I use the Mackie CR4 during post and my show ends up sounding very consistent on speakers, in the car, and on headphones.

Do you guys think the Mackie CR4 worth it?

http://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR4-Pair-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4O/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1450191619&sr=1-1&keywords=B00KVEIY4O

I'm thinking of ordering that since that's "around" the max I want to spend. I also like the small footprint as my desk doesn't have any room too.

I don't really know much about speakers and it's going to replace my really old garbage speakers. My only good IEMs is my brainwavz b2, which made me realize how bad the sound is for my old stuff. I really like the neutral sound.

Thanks in advance for any info!

You can get powered speakers and run an RCA cable (red and white plugs) from the cable box to the speakers. You could also use a speaker that has a 3.5mm jack and use an RCA to 3.5mm converter.

Cheap option $13 http://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-portable-wireless-speaker-blue/5496203.p?skuId=5496203

Great sounding speakers $150
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVEIY4O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vu3vybQVXKZGZ

RCA to 3.5mm converter
3.5mm Male to 2 RCA Left & Right Audio Female Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LVDWOQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9D3vybWVAMH6J

Noob with a unique situation. I'm in an efficiency apartment somewhere in the realm of 13'x22'. I'm looking to get my first budget monitors. I had a question in particular about them. I read earlier this week that using larger monitors can cause undesired results. Is there a max monitor size for my room? How badly will the other things in my apartment (kitchen area, bed and dresser) mess with the monitors?

I've been looking at the Presonus Eris 4.5 and the Mackie CR4 sets. Are either one of these sets ok for my situation? Something else entirely? Also taking budget interface suggestions. I'd prefer something with MIDI I/O.

Speaking of MIDI, I have a MIDI guitar that I found while spring cleaning. I was very much into rhythm games back in the day, and I bought the Rock Band 3 Stratocaster Pro Guitar. What can I do with it, recording wise?

Thanks!

I'm looking for some studio monitors for DJing + production and cannot decide between these two:

Mackie CR4

Monoprice 5" Studio Monitors

I'm just looking for bedroom practice and I would greatly appreciate your help. Thank you.

Sounds like you want Chromecast Audio plugged into some nice powered speakers, like these or these or these or these.
Edit: I'm not commenting on how well it'll work. I don't own a Chromecast. It just seems to work on paper for what you're asking.

If you don’t want to have to deal with amps you can try:
Hivi Swan-D1010IV(B)


Mackie CR3

Mackie CR4

Edifier R1280T

Definitely an unpopular opinion, but The Bose Companion II Series III aren’t terrible if you’re really pressed for space and aren’t too picky..I received a pair as a gift and they’ve suited me fine since I don’t use speakers for much anyway.

If you can up your budget, these would all be better options:

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B000IKSIOM/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1454238924&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=Behringer+monitor&dpPl=1&dpID=51uLRTW7amL&ref=plSrch

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00KVEIY4O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1454239003&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=Studio+monitor&dpPl=1&dpID=41y8TITPHmL&ref=plSrch

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00DIGC5NS/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?qid=1454239060&sr=8-15&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=Studio+monitor&dpPl=1&dpID=41%2Bh-s3qpXL&ref=plSrch

You could also Google "desktop hifi on a budget" there is an article about pairing one of those tiny Asian made leapai amps with a decent pair of cheap speakers (mono price models are under a hundo and get good reviews).

I suggest the Pro-ject pre amp

For speakers I don't know, I have a pair of Audio Pro addon t8's but they seem to be way pricier in US. Basically anything that fits your budget and has gotten favorable review usually is enough to get a nice sound out of your TT.

If you want to save a bit on the pre amp then you might wanna take a look at TCC TC-750, that would also do the trick, it is now for a pretty reasonable reduced price so be quick.

Speakers that I can recommend without a reservation would be these audio engine A2+. They are solid small powered speakers that would do your vinyls justice.

All together the TCC 750 with the A2+ now add up just shy of 300. This would be setup that with your TT will go a long way before a need to upgrade although I would add a sub when you get the chance.

If you want to save more, you could go for these Mackie CR4 but you can't add a powered sub to these, use them for your PC trough USB and don't have an option to add wireless support later. So it comes with a lack of features.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MTXU2DG?psc=1&smid=A2UPVLUE7LUM25

Would that work? I use my computer for gaming and the likes, etc. so would I have to keep unplugging and plugging in my headphones to different ports just to be able to hear everything?

Personally I have a Scarlett Solo USB interface (even though it's USB it has super low latency, great for recording and hearing effects like reverb etc in realtime) with a CAD M179 mic. Basically any pattern you could want, toggle for higher/lower sensitivity, and a built-in high-pass filter. Also it sounds fucking incredible. If I could afford another + a Scarlett 2i2 I'd definitely buy for better acoustic guitar recording.

I think that would do what you need it to do, but it looks like it's made of cheap plastic so I'd be concerned about the reliability. Also, there is no XLR input which you may need if you're ever going to use a mic. This one is better, and not that much more expensive:

http://www.amazon.in/Focusrite-Scarlett-Solo/dp/B00MTXU2DG/ref=pd_sim_sbs_267_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=417iR4TN3eL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1G9DV800T3VX33YWSS20

Are you buying the interface for recording??

I dunno. I don't want to sound like I have high authority in this area. I am reasonably new to recording. But this https://www.amazon.co.uk/FOCUSRITE-SCARLETT-SOLO-Audio-interfaces/dp/B00MTXU2DG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463169240&sr=8-1&keywords=scarlet+solo (sorry for the long link) has opened a lot of doors for ma and allows you to record one or two inputs simultaneously.

But yeah I am a 'bedroom' music maker. Maybe wait for more replies from more informed/experienced producers. But in my opinion an audio interface and a good quality mike will allow you to record pretty much whatever you like track by track.

Just make sure your recording music for the right reasons!

Scartlett Solo from Focusrite.

http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Solo-Compact-Interface/dp/B00MTXU2DG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459350011&sr=8-1&keywords=scarlett+solo

ART TubeMP Tube Microphone Preamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002GZZNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_Qu75wbV1GSNRW

Focusrite Scarlett Solo Compact USB Audio Interface https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MTXU2DG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_bw75wbSST22MK

I'd skip all the injecting phantom and 3.5mm USB device malarkey and get a Scarlett Solo (https://smile.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Solo-GENERATION-Interface/dp/B00MTXU2DG?sa-no-redirect=1) or similar. It's a bit more money, but it'll save you some headaches. Even the Behringer U...phoria? Sheesh that's a silly name... would be less work and more versatile.

Right, Reddit is full of people from all over the world, so when talking about currency, please don't just type "100". We have no idea if you mean Yen, Dollars, Pounds or chickens. Let's go ahead and assume you're American. This is the audio interface I would recommend within your budget. http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Solo-Compact-Interface/dp/B00MTXU2DG/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1414184459&sr=8-8&keywords=audio+interface

I hope I'm posting this in the right place.

I'm looking for a low-end solution for recording vocals, connected to a PC.

I have absolutely no experience whatsoever with audio hardware. My wife loves to sing - and though I am of course biased, I think she's pretty good at it - and so I want to get her a gift of some recording equipment.

I'm not looking for anything high-end; I'd like for it to be "decent", but it doesn't have to be professional level hardware. I'd like to be able to get everything for somewhere between $300-400 if possible. So, specifically, I'm looking for...

1. A microphone for vocals (with a stand, or stand separate)
   
   
2. A way to hook everything up to the PC (for use with something like FL Studio or Audacity)
   
   I assume there might need to be an amp in there somewhere? I don't know, I don't know anything about this stuff.
   
   Would anyone please be willing to give me some recommendations on parts, and what specifically I will need? Thank you.
   
   Edit: Okay, what about this?
   
   AT-2020 Mic
   
   Scarlett Solo USB Interface
   
   Mic Stand
   
   Pop Filter
   
   XLR Cable
   
   Seinnheser HD280 Headphones

Stupid question, but would this work?

Ah ok! Do you think this would work the same as the interface you mentioned? Sorry for the noob question!

Audio Interfaces like Focusrite's Scarlett series all have line outs, headphone out, and volume control.

The Scarlett Solo is the cheapest in the series.

I removed your post, read the sidebar.

But, I'll answer some of your questions.
First off, how much money do you want to spend? Up until ~$2000 a vocals setup scales very well with price, with $400-600 being a really sweet spot if you're only recording one voice at a time but don't want to spend a lot.

You have a very mediocre 4 channel interface, you can either keep it, upgrade to an Apogee Duet for ~$650, or crossgrade to something else cheaper and spend the difference on your other gear.

If you sold that, you should be able to get ~$250 at least.

If you're going to spend less than $300 and never upgrade, get the Presonus Studio kit and then an SM58 with stand combo, then throw in any old pop filter.

If you're going to spend a bit more, the same kit with an SM7b is a more serious option.

If you're going to spend more than that, I'll need more details to give a suggestion.

Another option would be a Focusrite Solo (slightly better interface) and an AKG 214. Or any of the other multitude of condenser microphones.

a computer with music software, a USB audio interface, microphones, a mixer, studio monitors, headphones, cables... lots of cables.., and instruments, amps... you could also go oldschool style and use an 8track

http://www.amazon.co.uk/FOCUSRITE-SCARLETT-SOLO-Audio-interfaces/dp/B00MTXU2DG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1453043184&sr=8-2&keywords=focusrite

Maybe.

What's the difference between a Focusrite Scarlett Solo and, say, a Behringer UM2 other than $72 and the combo XLR/quarter inch input on the CHEAPER one? Something isn't adding up here.

I see the one suggested is not much but no oe had reviewed it...I would look for well reviewed and do a little research...I only know people like the focusrite...this one is in your budget...http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Solo-Compact-Interface/dp/B00MTXU2DG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1452914044&sr=8-6&keywords=audio+interface

Sure thing. Musicians have a lot to learn from each other. You can get a guitar USB interface for pretty cheap these days eg: http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Solo-Compact-Interface/dp/B00MTXU2DG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1453972513&sr=8-2&keywords=guitar+interface
I have a more expensive one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OZE9SA/ref=s9_hps_bw_g267_i1

Great to have because it opens the door to using your computer as effects pedals and amplifier too. A lot of the software for that is free! :)

http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Solo-Compact-Interface/dp/B00MTXU2DG

$100 seems like a lot, but this thing is some of the best bang for your buck you'll get out of a recording interface, and it's got the added capability of doing a microphone as well, should you ever want to record an acoustic guitar or vocals.

first thing that comes to mind is a focusrite 2i2, which is like $99. But do some research for a digital-audio-converter. Most will have an output for headphones and an input for a mic jack (and a 1/4 inch in and out for guitars or headphones or whatever)

edit:

focusrite 2i2 (was on sale for $99, might drop down to that price again soon)

focusrite solo

phantom power supply

I have a condenser XLR connected to an audio interface (Focusrite Scarlett 2i2). I have not used the Shure adapter but seeing that it has phantom power for a condenser mic, mic gain control, and volume control I don't foresee you having any issues since you'll be able to adjust the gain and volume going into your computer.

If the Shure adapter doesn't work or doesn't increase the gain/volume enough, then I'd recommend a Focusrite Scarlett. It'll boost your mic up to 105dB and is the same price as the Shure adapter. I have had no issues with increasing the volume on my condenser with it.

Gotcha, so an interface like this one is the way to go, and then I can just focus on a guitar that makes me happy.

I wish the nearest store wasn't two hours away.

I used to mess with audacity as well haha. It seems very barebones, not sure how it would handle plugins. Even with a program like that, and audio interface will get you best results. i would say that if you have have an op amp and spare parts, might be worth it to get a small speaker and rig up a DIY mini amp. for the time being. if you have some money to spare as well these may be worth your while.

I'm debating between getting a Vox Amplug or Korg Pandora Mini but wondering if they're a little much starting out.



VOX AP2AC amPlug AC30 G2 Guitar Headphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAUHX1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jYnqxbA8QG510


Korg Pandora Stomp Multi-Effects Pedal - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0GQ4WM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i0nqxbSESV7V1

This would be an ideal solution until you can save up for a proper valve amp.

Get a headphone-amplifier?

Something like AmPlug, that you plug directly into your guitar for the sole purpose of using headphones.

I own the AC30 model and it's pretty nice. Can get a little noisy if you use the gain in it, which you'd expect from small electronics trying to do so much, but overall you get pretty damn good sound quality considering what you're trying to do.

You could get one of these https://www.amazon.com/AP2AC-amPlug-Guitar-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00NAUHX1G

Just for anyone else interested. Not bad at 4.5 star rating.

https://www.amazon.com/AP2AC-amPlug-Guitar-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00NAUHX1G/

I'm not sure about that, but here's a headphone amp. There's another thread right now on this, and they said that the Bugsgear Eleukes have headphone jacks.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAUHX1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SuK.ybR9VS9VJ

Get one of these. Vox amPlug

Here is something that can go right in your jack