(Part 3) Best pet supplies according to redditors

We have been compromised.

Run.

THIS is our last line of defense..

5 gallon is a good size for a Betta. Something like this. If you want any other fish as well, then you need to get a 10 gallon or larger. Just keep in mind Bettas can be picky about tank mates.

I highly recommend one of these. We have been using them for 5 years and set them to go at around 2 am. It seems to be the optimal time, and it makes almost no noise! Plus the cats can’t figure out how to get into it.

>When she does, I put her in her Den (Crate) but only if she tried to bite me. I know the den shouldn't be used for punishment, but I feel there has to be a way to show her biting is not tolerated.

Right now all you are punishing is the dog coming inside... which is going to create problems when you actually need your dog to come inside because now they won't want to. Yes, dogs learn by consequence, but the consequences MUST come immediately after the behavior you're trying to encourage/discourage.

Is your dog actually attacking/biting you? From your post it just sounds like your dog has developed a poor, perhaps over exuberant, way of initiating attention/play from you. How do they ask for play time in the house?

I would try to be proactive and initiate play with the dog before they have an opportunity start up with the behavior you want to stop. Maybe something with some distance between you and the dog to break the habit of lunging towards you or your hands. I would suggest a flirt pole. I would also suggest working on some obedience right before you take the leash off (ie ask for a sit or a down, remove the leash, and then bring out the flirt pole and release the dog to play).

The thing that causes this behavior is that he is a working breed dog who is extremely energetic. You basically described almost every lab I have ever trained. His owners need to give him a lot more mental and physical stimulation.

Since he is a lab, a chuck it ball thrower would be a great way to play fetch. A flirt pole is another really great toy for tiring dogs out.

For mental stimulation, mealtimes are a perfect opportunity. Have them get either a Bob-A-Lot or a Kong Wobbler for daily feeding and get rid of his food bowl. I recommend the Bob-A-Lot because you can make it easier or harder. This gives him ~10 extra minutes of brain work every day and you don't have to do anything extra.

Then basic obedience and chew/puzzle toys (kong marathon ball, nobbly nubbly, squirrel dude) will also help.

So he's six months old and acting EXACTLY like a puppy with a lot of energy. You need to DO things with him and TRAIN him in bite inhibition. Dogs use their mouths to communicate and that includes play. More than likely he's not being aggressive but trying to play with your hands/arms/feet.

Since he's still a baby you can't do heavy exercise due to them still having to grow but you can still do things with him. You can make a flirt pole (an example: http://www.amazon.com/Squishy-Face-Studio-Exercise-Squeaker/dp/B00HFFXEWE )and play with him outside. You want to ENCOURAGE him to interact with you positively outside. A tired dog is a happy dog.

The tank looks like a 2.5 gal. So here's a list of some inexpensive things you can grab to make him love his new home even more!:

• Sponge Filter very cheap and does its job well. You may need to buy a small air pump for it though, so maybe $5 more.
  
• Heater, however if you have the means to afford one that can be adjusted, I recommend this one I'm using this one for all of my tank.
  
• Thermometer to see if the heater works properly.
  
  If you get all of these from the links it should run you somewhere around $20.

I have one of these. I have it set to feed them 4 times a day on a schedule, and I only have to refill it maybe once every couple weeks. But yeah, the nice ones are pricey.

There are cheaper alternatives, though. Just need to be refilled a bit more often and probably less granular schedules.

I was expecting to see one of these in the link there

http://www.amazon.com/Chuckit-Classic-Launcher-Colors-Vary/dp/B00006IX59

no bending over to pick up and throw it much further.

We use this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GEWHNS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Pros: doesn't jam, hides 4 meals so it lasts us 2 days when filled, clock etc. are pretty good, they haven't figured out how to break in.

Cons: the cats haven't disconnected us from the act of the food rotating so they think they need to tell us when it's almost food time.

Why not work in the yard on a long line instead of going on walks? Gets her outside and moving, but keeps her close to home, too. You can work up on distance when she is doing better. As long as you are active with your dog, it doesn't necessarily have to come in the form of a "walk".

Some alternatives:

• Training - ALWAYS good. Tires out the brain, builds skills and focus, can help with anxiety and stress, can be really fun for everyone. Tricks + basic skills are a good place to start. You can work up to more fun/physical things once you have a good foundation. Clicker Training is a really fun way and effective way to work with your dog. Training makes up a good hunk of our daily exercise/activities. The mental stimulation is what is really important for many anxious dogs.
  
  
• Flirt Pole - Tons of fun. You can play on a long line in the yard. Great way to work on impulse control and focus.
  
  
• Urban Agility / Backyard Agility - use common objects for obstacles (benches, stairs, poles, rocks, etc). You can build up different skills to help your dog learn how to maneuver these obstacles on cue. You can do things like cue to jump up on rocks/benches, walk across platforms (like retaining walls), weave between poles, etc. Good way to build focus and exercise the mind and body. You can make some homemade equipment, too (there are lots of different guides online).
  
  
• Fetch - you can play on a long line in the yard. If it is raining, you can also play on stairs in your house to burn some extra energy faster.
  
  
• Catch - you can play indoors or in the yard on a long line. Practice tossing objects up for your dog to catch. Play on softer surfaces - avoid concrete or hard floors to give your pup more cushion and be careful about encouraging your dog to jump TOO high. You can also incorporate stunts the more advanced you get or even look into flyball style games/training.
  
  
• Puzzles - IQ Ball, Kongs, Buster Cubes, Kong Wobbler, etc. Replace a meal in a bowl with a meal in a puzzle toy or two and occupy your pup!
  
  
• Scentwork - hid stinky treats or special scented objects for your dog to find. Here is some basic game ideas to help you get started. There are classes and tons of materials available on scent training.
  
  Not all of these are indoor/outdoor, but depending on the size of your space many of them can easily be done inside, too! It is really important that you don't let her apprehension about being outside keep her indoors. Counter Conditioning can be a big help in helping her become more confident outdoors - just work at her pace, but work consistently. Even if you stay close to home for the next several months and keep outdoor activities short, but more frequent throughout the day, it can do a lot to help her get over her anxieties.
  
  Depending on her level of stress, you could even try feeding her outside, or making sure the meals she enjoys outside have a little extra something in them that helps her realize how rewarding it can be to be outdoors.

Like a Chuck It! ball launcher?

get one of these, some tennis balls, and get ready to never stop til they drop...

> shelter vets and workers who tell me the grand majority of the animals they see are completely purebred, healthy and just as good as anything you can buy from a breeder

Not really, there are quite a few times where purebreds come into shelters but for the most part 90% are mutts. "Oh look at this amazing rottweiler! His legs are a bit longer than normal though, probably mixed with something?" normally goes on but it is still listed as a Rottweiler (If your shelter lists the breed). A lot of times they are not seen as damaged goods but like you said, second rate and tons of people are hung up on the breed of dog instead of the love the dog can give.

Very rare cases a shelter will do a DNA test for the dog if they are really curious but no shelter I have worked with will do this unless someone raises funds for it.

I haven't seen anyone give an extensive, quick, and friendly guide so here's a quick one!

You're going to need a 5.5 gallon in order for him to thrive, otherwise you're gonna have a very unhappy fish who might live but will not be doing good. An aquarium is a tiny ecosystem in an enclosed space, so a .5 gallon gets very toxic, very quickly. It'll hurt his gills, it'll hurt his fins, just everything. The ammonia will buildup quickly and reach very dangerous levels, and although 100% water changes will decrease that, an established bacteria colony (made up of harmless ones) needs to be there for the fish to really be healthy!

When you see a happy and healthy betta, you will never want to go back!

Cheap quick solution for now: Five gallon Rubbermaid from Walmart, this filter, paired with this air pump, and this connector tube. It will run you about $20, and can hold for a while!

Long Term: Buy a 5.5 standalone aquarium tank from Petsmart (only $14.99) and a little pack of gravel, and some live plants of your choice! Check our r/aquaswap for some cheap plants from other Reddit users. Just move over the filter and heater, and you have the perfect set up! There are also some cheap lighting solutions that you can buy to help your plants grow!

Everyone gets tricked in the beginning, but making steps towards helping your betta will enhance his life so much! The whole set up, the filter/air pump/tubing and tank from petsmart, will cost you $27.48 since you've already got the heater!

If your heater is too small, I've got the link to a $6 one (which is $10 less than the cheapest at any pet store I've been to) on amazon that works perfectly and is recommended all the time on this sub.

I am super jealous of dog owners who can chuck-it a ball, and their dog sprints after it and brings it back...rinse and repeat. Curse them!

It looks like you just got your puppy four or five days ago, and crate training isn't going to happen that fast. I would take a deep breath and see if you can remove yourself from the situation for a bit if you can, you being stressed and puppy being stressed is not conducive to getting pup to like her crate.

It sounds like you're doing everything right, doing it in steps, making the crate a place of fun and treats. The puppy is still very new to you and her environment, and has lost her family.

My big suggestion for you is to keep on plowing through, making sure you have time to come home from lunch to check on pup, and know you are doing almost everything right. This will pass.

In the meantime a lot of people have vouched for the Snuggle Pup which warms up and emulates a puppy that may make your dog feel less alone. I did not use it, but ended up putting in a sturdy heating pad (since my corgi was not a fierce chewer) into the crate, and it seemed to keep him calm.

The Rebate form

amazon link

Chewy.com link

It can be very difficult to guess accurately from appearance! Although I see why that is your guess.

If you are very curious and have some disposable income, you could try one of these genetic testing kits for dogs: https://www.amazon.com/Wisdom-Identification-Canine-Genetic-Ancestry/dp/B01EHX2BH0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1550434658&sr=8-1&keywords=dog+genetic They are pretty easy to use and reasonably accurate. If your dog has a very mixed genetic background (ie even her grandparents were all mixed breeds) it will not be able to tell you very well what all the different breeds are, but in most situations it will at least have some relatively close guesses. As long as you know it's mostly for fun and curiosity, the kits are easy to use and interesting.

Very pretty dog, I hope you have a long and happy friendship!

It's also used by average people with mutts and shelter dogs, partly to track for hereditary issues (poodles have a higher likelihood of Addison's disease, for example), partly to try and shed light on behaviors ("Oh, my dog is really clever and high energy, and it turns out he's part Collie!"), and partly because some people just want to know what breed(s) their pup is. There are kits available at most pet stores and online, including Amazon.

Purigen. Drop it in your filter and you're good to go.

about $80. https://www.amazon.com/Mars-Veterinary-Wisdom-Panel-Identification/dp/B01EHX2BH0

hiya, don't feel too bad, it's hard to get it right from the start with so much bad information everywhere.

A 2 gallon tank is a massive upgrade, so well done! I wouldn't mess around with the pH too much, unless it's very high. Stable pH is often better than a somewhat low or high pH.

As for filters, in my experience, a small sponge filter (1, 2), powered by a good airpump (like this one) is a good option for smaller tanks on a budget. You can also see if you can attach it to the air-thing aleardy in the tank. Be sure to also get a check valve and a regulator valve. With the regulator valve, you can decrease the amount of bubbles.

Congrats on the new fish! Bettas are my favorite fish, they're active and have a lot of personality, and they're very curious. I know you're starting off, but here's some info I hope will help :)

Bettas do best with a heater, between 75-79F / 23-26C, it helps them prevent illness and it keeps them active. I might consider upgrading him to a small tank you can put a heater and maybe a filter in, he'll be very active and fun to watch. I use this little filter for healing tanks if you're looking for a simple little filter.

Also, if you've heard or read anything along the lines of "bettas can live in vases by eating the plant roots" this is a lie - bettas are obligate carnivores, they only eat plants out of desperation when they're starving, and it can't sustain them. Make sure you have betta pellets, or freeze dried brine shrimp or blood worms :)

Make sure he always has access to the surface - bettas are anabantoids, or labyrinth fish, which means they need to breathe air from the surface. They can actually drown if they can't access the air, I've heard of this happening in vases where the plant blocked surface air access.

Absolutely. DIY CO2 is ridiculously easy. I’m not that technically inclined so if I can do it anyone can. This may seem like a lot but it’s not as bad as it looks. I used to use the Fluval 88g CO2 system but it was ludicrously expensive to but the proprietary refill canisters. This setup is soooo cheap and completely reliable and produces ample CO2. I’m happy to tell you some pitfalls once you get it set up because it would be hard for you to follow me without having it in front of you.

DIY CO2 Aquarium Plant System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_o0JPDbTTNQCT0

Fluval 88g-CO2 Bubble Counter - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCPM6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_40JPDb482G6RQ

Fluval Ceramic 88g-CO2 Diffuser - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCO35G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-3JPDbJ43F4ZG

Milliard Citric Acid 5 Pound - 100% Pure Food Grade NON-GMO Project VERIFIED (5 Pound) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EYFKNL8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_34JPDb122FQKM

ARM & HAMMER Pure Baking Soda 8 oz (Pack of 6) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00860VYYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_A5JPDb8FKP7NN

2 x normal 2 liter soda bottles

It's very kind of you to not just let him die! If you get him spiffed up you may be able to find someone who likes fish to take him in, so you don't end up feeling burdened...

but in the meanwhile, there is some basic stuff you can do. If your measurements are correct, then he's probably in a 2 1/2 or 3 gallon aquarium, which while not the best, will certainly suffice. This means the main things you'll need are a filter and a heater.

It would also be nice if you got him some stuff to hide in, so he doesn't stress. They make aquarium decorations, but a clean, well rinsed ceramic coffee mug or unpainted terra cotta planter will do the trick for cheap.

By the way, can you post the name of the water conditioner that you found in the tube? It will help me be able to figure out if it's a dechlorinator or not, which is the most important thing.

Also, does the tank have a lid? Bettas will jump out of water, especially if the water quality is bad.

Anyway, there is plenty of inexpsensive, decent equipment for a tank that size:

I personally happen to like this filter for a tank that size, and it's very easy to install/maintain.

Here's a nice little heater that's worked very well for me. You'd want to maintain his water between 75 and 80 degrees, so it's always a good idea to have a thermometer to make sure the heater is doing its job properly.

From there, maintenance is pretty easy. Feed him just 3 or so of those little food pebbles a day, and once a week give him some of the bloodworms for variety. The main thing is to not overfeed, because they have very small tummies.

Once a week, change out about 25% of his water, and rinse out your filter pads with old aquarium water if they need it. They make little syphons especially for this, because the suction they create helps you vacuum poo out of the substrate.

Lots of big dog stuff here! Here's some nice things for the little guys (~25 lbs and under). Many of these items are good for big dogs, too; will note them with a * sign and list them first in each section.

Treats

• Himalayan Dog Cheese Chew*: Long-lasting hard cheese chews; can be microwaved to make "cheesy popcorn" for your dog when it gets small enough to pose a swallowing hazard. Comes in a variety of sizes.
  
  
• Brushless Toothpaste*: Our dog LOVES this stuff, and it keeps his breath smelling awesome. Also helps keep his teeth clean. May want to introduce these into the dog's diet slowly, as some are sensitive to the ingredients but acclimate over time. Comes in an even smaller size for the really tiny dogs, and bigger sizes for the big dogs :)
  
  
• Freeze-dried chicken*: Easy to break into small pieces and sprinkle over your dog's kibble or regular food.
  
  
• Stella & Chewy Meal Mixers*: Great to sprinkle over your dog's regular food for both nutrition and novel taste.
  
  
• Fruitables Minis: Small and low-calorie; great for clicker-training your dog. Comes in a wide variety of flavors.
  
  
• Crazy Dog Bacon Treats*: Also small and very-low calorie; another good clicker-training tool.
  
  Toys
  
  
• KONG Mini Squeaky Tennis Balls*: Great for dogs who like either balls, squeaky toys, or both! My dog had zero interest in balls before these, and they're still the only ones he'll play with. Come in lots of sizes; not good for strong dogs who like to chew up their balls.
  
  
• Dog Tornado*: Easy introductory puzzle toy that's not too big for little dogs. Good for kibble, wet food, and treats. May be too big for dogs under 7 lbs.
  
  
• Dog Tower: Another great introductory puzzle toy suitable for small dogs. Good for kibble and small treats. Not sure how this'll hold up to big dogs, although I think it'd be fine with the gentler ones.
  
  
• JW Treat Pod: Kind of like the Kong, but better suited for gentler, 'licking'-type dogs. Easier to clean out as well, IMO; the small Kongs are so hard to get completely clean even with a brush.
  
  
• Outward Hound Flirt Pole: Fun and easy exercise, the Outward Hound version is more lightweight and suited for small dogs.
  
  Harnesses, Collars, & Safety
  
  
• Pet Stairs*: Large collection of pet stairs. Some on this page are suitable for large dogs as well.
  
  
• Hurtta Active Dog Harness*: High-quality dog harness for dogs that love to run around the outdoors in all kinds of weather and elements. Comes in a variety of sizes; for dogs 7+ lbs.
  
  
• Ruffwear Swamp Cooler*: Comes in XXS, XS, and S. Great for keeping your dog cool in the summer if you don't live in a humid area.
  
  
• Hurtta Pet Overall*: Great for rain and snow; comes in a variety of small sizes. Fit perfectly on our Pom mix and very high quality.
  
  
• Musher's Secret*: Protect your dog's paws in cold weather.
  
  
• Sleepypod Clickit*: Crash-tested car harness, comes in a variety of sizes.
  
  
• Sleepypod Mobile Carrier/Car Seat/Pet Bed: Crash-tested dog bed/car seat/carrier!
  
  
• Lil Pals Step-in Mesh Harness: For the seriously small dogs.
  
  
• Ollydog Marin Collar: Completely waterproof, rustproof, extremely durable, easy to put on...the perfect collar!
  
  Grooming
  
  
• The Stuff Detangler and Conditioner*: Keeps your dog's coat looking clean and glossy; easy to apply and doesn't have a strong odor.
  
  
• Lil Pals Grooming Kit: Miniature grooming tools for your miniature dog at a very affordable price.
  
  Edited to add more+formatting!

Dr Elseys Ultra is the best, it doesn't smell at all and its very low tracking.

https://www.amazon.com/Dr-Elseys-Premium-Clumping-Litter/dp/B0009X29WK/ref=sr_1_4?crid=9IXJH5IAW5CF&keywords=dr+elseys+cat+litter&qid=1569269726&s=gateway&sprefix=dr+e%2Caps%2C163&sr=8-4

Does your dog like to play fetch? If so this was my saving grace.

We bought some fancy toy for our cat with feathers and all of this other crap and he couldn't stand it. I went on Amazon and bought this for $4.50. He absolutely loves it, #1 cat toy on Amazon for a reason I suppose.

Don't go the shelter/rescue road just yet. You're definitely not meeting the physical needs of his breed, however, I think you can start working on some things to make him AND you happier. Some ideas:

• Dogs don't self exercise in the yard. Go out there and work with him. I know you have joint issues, so work on things that pushes HIM but not you. Teach fetch, or a formal retrieve. You can tie the retrieve to an activity such as go around, and add a place. Add as many commands as you want, but then, as an example, you would send your dog to (eventually) run out to the cone, go around, and then you might send them in a different direction to 'place', and then in the opposite direction to retrieve something. It'll wear them out mentally AND physically, but you don't have to do much work beyond the set up.
  
• Get some toy engagement. Fenzi Course on this available here.
  
• Introduce your dog to nosework.
  
• Train your dog's off-switch. Use matwork, and/or, capturing calm, and/or default settle, and/or the relaxation protocol.
  
• Make use of a flirt pole - tie it with obedience such as leave it, get it, drop it, sit/down, etc.
  
• Consider a doggy-treadmill.
  
• Drop the idea that walks need to be long. Try to walk him for an hour a day, even if that hour needs to be 6x10minute walks. :)
  
  Remember you will never, ever be able to beat a BC for exercise. :) Wear them out mentally and the physical part might be easier to manage.

this cat litter from Amazon. I have to order the 40lb tidy cats when the Dr. Elsey's is out but the Elsey's is much better... There's barely any dust and doesn't smell like anything, clumps better, overall better

Puppy Update!

Sleep is much easier to come by now that her snuggle puppy came from Amazon. The thing has wildly exceeded my expectations. The puppy went from having crying/howling sessions 4-5 times per night to sleeping the entire night without making a peep with it.

Hopping on here, I have a 5 mo Goldendoodle who did not do well with crate training at first. The woman we got him from suggested that many people had great success using Snuggle Puppy Behavioral Toy and it was an absolute game changer for us. Ollie has slept through the night (minus nights with belly aches), every night since. I would also recommend keeping the crate in your room with you, as others have suggested.

I also highly recommend Zak George’s videos on dog training, I read his book too, but the YouTube videos are extremely informational and worked really well for me when I needed help training Ollie.

For the puppy energy I took Ollie for lots of short walks, I live in Florida so the heat was a definite issue and I didn’t want to keep him out for too long, however, once he was walked he would nap for hours.

Apart from that, just give your puppy lots of love and patience and know it does get easier with time. I was pulling my hair out for the first month, almost two months with Ollie, but now, at month three, it’s like a switch has flipped. I can tell what he needs much more quickly than the first month and he’s much better about trying to communicate what he needs. Good luck OP!

I have the same watering bowl, and this feeder and leave my cats alone for up to week sometimes.

They are cats. They don't care. When I get home they don't even to seem to have missed me. Assholes.

this may repeat what others have said but this is a fairly exhaustive list of things that have shown really good response from my cats:

• Go Cat mouse teaser - made by the same people who made da bird (next bullet) which is featured a lot on My Cat from Hell and is a very popular toy; my younger cat goes APESHIT for it every time and wants to play with it whenever we let him - he will jump higher and run faster than with any other toy
  
• Go Cat "Da Bird" - simply put, a great cat teaser; it will whistle through the air if you guide it at the right speed (pretty easy to get after practice) and both of my cats love it (and as mentioned above, very very popular)
  
• pom pom balls, fluffy puff balls/"mice", etc. - basically balls that are soft, fuzzy, and can fit happily in cat mouth - my cats bat these around (under couch/table/etc. :/) and carry them around the apartment proudly
  
• mylar balls or other chewy/noisy balls/"mice" - great for making noise to pique their interest and also fun to bat, carry, etc.
  
• random shit filled with catnip - I first bought one of those little animals that you fill with nip, but now I just fill an old sock, tie it off, and it works just as well
  
• laser pointer - I linked the one I use, but obviously doesn't matter which you buy; however, you need to commit to some time with playing with this each session, as I've felt that starting a play session only to stop before your cats are exhausted is asking for trouble, as the laser pointer gets them SO EXCITED that they stay crazed and they have to burn off that extra energy somehow...
  
• BOXES - do you buy things? KEEP THE BOXES - they are probably the most easily/cheaply accessible toy you can get with the most use because cats love playing in, sitting, sleeping, squeezing into, etc boxes like it's nobody's business. also - keep the bubble wrap/air packs because those are also fun to pounce on/attack
  
• straws - I bought a pack for like a dollar and have tons still - not always a hit but are fun to chew and bat
  
  that's about it as far as things that remain interesting... and that fit in nice categories
  
  note the Go Cat toys will become destroyed if you leave them out unattended/after play so keep them somewhere out of reach when not in use

I love this! I kind of want a little meter that tells me where I am in life, but then again, maybe not...

My most epic "invention" was a cross between this, this, and this for people with menstrual cramps. (My friend also thought this was a genius idea. I invented it for her because she had bad cramps.) Basically, you would insert the ball thrower thing and cup it around your uterus and press a button. The umbrella would then extend to completely surround your uterus. You could then press a button and heat your uterus and ovaries from the inside. I don't know how you'd do this without severing something internal, but we swore up and down that we'd make millions.

Like the Pleco! Get some Purigen in that tank! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002A5VK2

It's called the "Cat Charmer" and is made by a company called Cat Dancer. It's just a super-long (approx 4-5 ft.) rainbow-colored string made of tough felt that's attached to a short plastic wand. We got ours on Amazon: non-affiliate link. Sometimes I tie it around my waist and walk around (doing chores etc), and my kitty "hunts" the string trailing after me 😺

If you try the Arm and Hammer and you don't like it, I recommend Precious Cat Clumping litter.
I live in a small apartment with 2 cats and 2 dogs, and the litter boxes have to be in my bedroom. This litter is the only litter that doesn't make my room smell like piss or gross fragrance. It's low dust too, which is nice for my asthma cat.

Mars Veterinary Wisdom Panel 3.0 Breed Identification DNA Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EHX2BH0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jz5Jzb1D63SK0

I'm getting him this for his birthday :) Along with some tankmate friends.

Honestly, you exercise your dog while doing things as a family. I don't have a child, but some of my friends with a dog do and them spending quality time together usually consists of them going to the beach with a dog or going to the park with the dog, or going on hikes with the dog. They were active people to begin with (their daughter went on her first camping trip at 1 month old, the dad's a marathoner, the mom's a triathlete) so an active dog fit into their lifestyle. (They have a border collie - the most active of active dogs) Additionally, once your dog is 3 years old, they should calm down a bit, although labs are notorious for acting like puppies far into their adult years.

Generally, this is why people are actually advised away from labs - they're far more high energy than most people expect. They were bred to retrieve and hunt - to work the whole day with a hunter so they've got a lot of energy.

Does your dog have all their shots? Is there a dog park nearby? My dog will get wiped when she gets to play with all the other dogs. Have you taught your dog fetch? That's another great way to get out a lot of energy fast. Do you know what a flirt pole is? It's basically a giant cat toy for dogs (I got mine here). My dog is uber prey driven, so this is the perfect toy for her. You want to go easy on it as your puppy is still very young and their growth plates aren't fused yet, but it can still be very fun and tiring.

Does your daughter have a lot of fun with the dog? Maybe you can figure out some game that will not only tire out your puppy, but allow you to give your daughter your time as well.

Here's what I think you should try:

• get an exercise pen so you don't always have to worry about your puppy getting into stuff while you're working
  
• Take 5 minute breaks from work occasionally and work on some training with your dog - training is great mental stimulation and will also tire out your dog (also it's more effective when done in short bursts throughout the day)
  
• Don't give your dog any more food in a bowl. It always goes into some sort of puzzle toy (I have the starmark chew ball and the kong wobbler but there are tons) or is a reward for training
  
• Try to extend your walks a bit and make sure you don't always go to the same place. Sniffing new things is also mental stimulation and will also help tire out your dog
  
• Try to find more activities you can do as a family that will also wear out your dog
  
• Try a bitter spray like bitter apple for things she shouldn't chew on (my dog used to chew on the table, now she doesn't)
  
• Make sure you're giving your dog really good chews like bully sticks. They're pricey, but much less of a choking hazard than rawhide. I buy em in bulk off amazon.
  
• Try dog parks
  
• See if doggy day care, even for a day or two a week is feasible - it may really tire out your dog (most of them around here have a discounted rate for a half day, so that's an option as well)
  
• Try a flirt pole
  
• Try fetch
  
• Get thee to a dog training class! Once again, training will tire out your dog mentally so they're less likely to destroy stuff
  

my bc/lab loves his flirt pole

We can go biking for hours, he'll take a nap, and be ready to go again. With his flirt pole, we can play for about 20 minutes and he's nice and chill after that.

I have the 30” Planted+ 24/7 on my 20 long and it works great

I don't think it's a Shar Pei - they're wrinkly, yes, but I don't see any other traits in there. It looks to me like a Bloodhound mix. Note the big ears and dark saddle. There may also be some Labrador in there.

Have you considered a dog DNA test? Wisdom Panel 3.0 ($80) is pretty basic and will tell you what breed your pup is, while Embark Veterinary ($170) gives you the breed as well as a comprehensive DNA health screen.

Here's one of many I found on Amazon.

/u/8armstohugyouwith describes it well. I bought mine on amazon, you can also make your own for cheaper.

Firstly, get your dog neutered. There are places that will do this at discount rates (look for mobile spay/neuter clinics in your area) or local shelters/humane societies. Google it. There is no reason to not neuter your dog (unless you are a certified breeder and you intend to breed this dog).

This is something that my trainer told me that I found really helped - by the time you've seen a dog or person on your walk, your dog has likely been aware of them for some time, either through his superior sense of smell or hearing. This means that as soon as you see a person, you need to start looking at his body cues (See Here and Here) and then react appropriately by redirecting or distracting. My own GSD (female, spayed, 1.5 years old) is almost always in the 'alert' or 'unsure' stage when she sees another dog while we are walking.

As for the other stuff, it sounds like you need to go back to basics. Find a treat or a toy that he really likes and use that to train and only to train (meaning he will not get it unless you are walking/training). For my dog, training treats consist of boiled chicken, string cheese, or hot dogs (depending on what is at hand) but sometimes even this doesn't work. The only toy that she goes consistently bonkers for is a flirt pole. Start off by training a heel command indoors. When he heels consistently inside (without being lured by treats) you can move it outside. Stick to just in front of/behind your house at first, then move to longer walks as he gets more and more consistent with the behavior.

Other than that, consider getting a 30 foot leash (like others have said) and play play play right before going for a walk. Use play time to train cues such as 'drop it' and 'stay'. I also recommend looking up some trainers on youtube (Zak George, Kikopup, Victoria Stilwell). Its not the same as having a professional trainer, but it does help a lot.

Six weeks is really young. I'm assuming a rescue since any breeder would know to not separate a puppy from it's mom and littler mates at that age. 8 weeks minimum, 10 weeks better. There is still a lot of learning needed to be done there. Not sure how to over come that. As for the potty training 6 weeks is too young to expect much. Figure they can hold it for about an hour for each month of age. So, he's at an hour. You can start crate training. Use it for when he isn't supervised. Like when you're at work. Don't use it for punishment or as a place to put him while you watch TV, etc. Get him outside regularly. It's easier to potty train successfully when they never get used to peeing in the house to big with.

You might want to look into a heartbeat "toy" to keep in the create with him. My friend used this one. Someone else might have a better recommendation.

https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Pet-Love-Snuggle-Behavioral/dp/B000C9YHFS

If he has a hard time with separation, you might want to get him a snuggle puppy (they make snuggle kitties, but the puppy is usually cheaper and kittens can't tell the difference...). It has a heart beat and it will make him feel like he has someone alive to snuggle with.

Just get one of those time release cat feeder type deals. Portion control solved.

I'm a senior veterinary student (doctor in 6 months) and I love cats and cat behavior.

This is one of the best websites out there: http://indoorpet.osu.edu/cats/

Understanding cat behavior (video lecture by Dr. Buffington: http://streaming.osu.edu/vetmed/indoorcats/indoorcats.wmv

Best book: http://store.wexarts.org/yhtt.html

Litter boxes: 1 per cat plus 1 extra. 1 Litter box means one in a single room. Two litter boxes right next to each other or in the same room count as one box. Think about it like a toilet. You put two toilets together and no wall between them then two people are NOT going to use them at once.

Cats prefer deep, clumping litter and dislike litter liners (they get stuck in them).

The litter box should be as long as your cat is from nose to tip of tail. Put it in a quite room away from doors, drafts, windows, children and loud objects like washing machines. Clean at least once every three days.

If your cat messes outside the box DO NOT punish it. You're cat won't understand you (it doesn't speak english) and you'll just make it fear you. Do NOT clean it up with normal cleaning products. They'll set the stain and the smell will stay forever (encourging you cat to remark the area). DO use an ezymatic cleaner made to remove urine such as http://www.natures-miracle.com/ or anti-icky poo. For dirtied clothing use Dreft baby detergent as it's made to take out urine and feces from diapers. Remember to DROWN THE URINE CONTAINING AREA. Dump a full half gallon if you half to. If you don't completely drench the stain (ie you just try to dab or wipe) it'll still be there and the cat will remark again. Don't be stingy. Clean it up the first time.

Remember: your cat has the final say in what it uses as a litter box. Cater to the cat least the cat decide your rug is more attractive.

Scratching Post: Scratching is a normal cat behavior and should be encouraged (never punished). Declawing involves amputating the last bone in your cat's paw and is exactly the same as cutting off everything from the last knuckle on up on your hand. Declawing should always be a last resort for cases where the cat having its claws puts someone's life in danger (ie AIDs owners, hemophiliacs, or people who would have to give up the cat if it scratched them). There are plenty of alternatives to declawing such as claw caps, nail trimming, and MOST IMPORTANTLY providing a place for the cat to scratch.

An appropriate scratching post needs to be sturdy (never tips even if your cat leaps on it), and tall enough that your cat can stretch out to their fullest. I recommend this one. If your cat scratches on flat surfaces like the tops of chairs or the carpet get a horizontal scratcher instead such as this one. DON'T go cheap. Flimsy crap like this or this will just make you cat pick the nice big sofa instead. Also, most cats hate door hanger scratches so don't waste your money.

If your cat does scratch off the post DO NOT punish it. You'll just make it fear you and it won't understand what they heck you're trying to say. Positive reinforcement is always safer and very effective. Grab a great wand toy and run it over the scracthing post. NEVER take your cat's paws and try to "show them how to use the scratcher". Your cat WILL HATE IT and may become adverse to the scratcher.

Remember: Your cat will always choose their favorite place to scratch. You'd better offer them something better than your couch if you expect them to pick that instead. Cat's aren't stupid. They have good taste.

Medical: Indoor cats can absolutely still get rabies and I'm sad to say I've watched two indoor only cats die because they contracted rabies from catching a bat that got into the home. In both cases the owners never had bat problems ever and swore to me up and down that it was impossible. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE get your rabies vaccine every year. I don't want to ever have to comfort a crying owner again and you don't want to get the rabies post exposure shots. They hurt. Trust me.

Cats should be on flea and heartworm prevention year round in most areas. Cat's are more resistant to heartworm than dogs but when they get it, it's devastating. They can have a sudden allergic reaction and die. I's much harder to identify cats with heart worm because they usually only get 1-3 worms and may not always test positive. The safest bet is year round protection like revolution or advantage multi.

Cats get VERY painful dental disease, so if your cat's mouth smells bad take it to the vet. Waiting just increases your bill. Trust me on this one. Cats will eat through the pain until they get so sick they're nearly dead. Don't wait for your cat to stop eating.

Fleas are not a sign that you are dirty. Mice bring them in when they move into your house for the winter. If you see one flea then you will need to treat every pet in your household with prescription flea medication for at least 6 months. 1 live adult is only 5% of the fleas in your house. And for the love of all that's holy USE CAT PRODUCTS ONLY. Many of the dog products will kill your cat because they have different ingredients.

This that will kill your cat:

onions/garlic

ibprofen (motrin, etc)

tylenol (acetaminophen)

rat poison

antifreeze

lily plants (easter lilies, tiger lillies, asian lillis ANY LILY IS BYE BYE KIDNEYS in about 4 hours)

chocolate

sugar free gum (xylitol)

chewing on electric wires

string (thread, dental floss, yarn etc. think $2000 surgery and no guarantee your cat will survive)

chrysanthemums

See full list: http://www.catvets.com/cat-owners/caring-for-cats/feline-toxins-and-poisons

When to get in the car and drive your cat to the emergency vet RIGHT F-ING NOW:

cat ate any of the above plants or medications

seizures

cat has not urinated in 48 hours and/or is in and out of the litter box, crying and straining to pee (blocked cats will die in less than 24 hours without immediate treatment)

cat is open mouth breathing (cats don't usually pant except MAYBE after very hard intense play and even that should wane in less than 1-2 minutes)

cat is reluctant to move, vomits more than twice in one day, or seems weak and unable to stand

cat possibly ate something like a rubber band, hair tie, string or metal object

cat has not eaten for 2 meals or more

cat seems dazed, is bumping into walls or acting suddenly excited/drunk (this is a sign of poisoning)

When to go to the vet in the next 24-48 hours

Cat skipped a meal or has decreased appetite or only eats wet food when she used to eat dry food

Cat is drinking more than usual

Cat is peeing outside the box or going more frequently (cat's almost never get UTIs but they sure as heck get kidney disease, diabetes, cancer, hyperthroidism and urinary stones. Please don't dick around trying to treat this with those useless "medications" as the pet store. You could make things a LOT worse and you're just wasting money)

Your kitten is very young -- I assume that she has no other kitten companions in your household. The first two-to-three months of a kitten's life should be spent with their mother and litter so that they can properly develop and socialize, as this time is crucial to their development.

That being said, she may still see it as a 'playtime' activity when she grows up. It is not recommended to let her continue doing this, as she'll get stronger and more dangerous as she ages. I would recommend that you train her to not play in that way, since it can be painful.

One suggestion I have is to make a high-pitched noise or shriek when she bites or nibbles your hands. When growing up in a litter, kittens often playfight with their brothers and sisters, but use a high-pitched noise to signal an 'okay, that's enough, it's starting to hurt.' The same can be taught to your cat through you and your family.

Another suggestion is to give her more toys to play with. You don't have to spend a lot of money on toys -- a crumpled paper ball, a big brown paper bag from a grocery store, they're all viable toys. One toy that my cat loves is the Da Bird Cat Catcher ( http://www.amazon.com/Da-Bird-Catcher-Feather-Toys/dp/B000LPOUNW/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1346535251&sr=1-2&keywords=go+cat+mouse ). It's not an expensive toy, but it keeps my cat busy!

Well yes and no - in my humble opinion.

You are doing great at taking your dog at 2 times a day - I do the same, once when I get up and once when I get home from work. We usually are out for no less than an hour each session. The big difference is that I usually have my dog fetch at least 1 of the sessions for the hour and he really get's a good run in.

One suggestion is maybe try to train your dog to play fetch? I know not every dog is going to have that "prey drive" and ability to do it as well as others, but if your's was like my dog - he just didn't know how to play "that game".

I got my dog from an adoption agency and I'm pretty sure he had terrible ill-prepared owners who ended up giving him away. When I took him to his first field and threw a ball for the first time - he just looked at me funny. I had to "teach and train" him what to do. Try this resource and maybe purchase one of these - they help out immensely.

Bottom line, it's probably not good to ONLY walk your dog. He needs to get a good run in at least once or twice a week (at the least and pending his size/breed). Teaching fetch is probably the easiest solution (and the quickest) and it requires little to no physical exertion in comparison to getting in shape to run with your dog.

https://www.amazon.com/Chuckit-Classic-Launcher-Colors-Vary/dp/B00006IX59

Congrats! Asking questions like this is the first step to becoming a responsible GSD owner. I would keep up with the research as you two learn how to become good buddies; I've owned GSDs my whole life and I'm still picking up good tips from trainers and the like. I've got a detailed response below, but feel free to PM me if you want to talk further. I'm always happy to help, and I wish you and your girl the best!

To your questions:

• Yes, GSDs are totally German Shedding Dogs. But this is more manageable than you think! Make brushing fun by familiarizing her with a quick brush everyday, 10 minutes. Brushing a dog is twice as hard when they're squirmy. Get yourself a cheap self-cleaning slicker brush like this. As long as you make brushing a regular occurrence, you cut back a lot on and hassle.
  
  
• Depending on her age (how far into puppyhood), you might be facing some terrible 2's or 3's. Even older GSDs, if prone to separation anxiety or boredom, will bark and exhibit destructive behavior. The key is to boost confidence (look up separation anxiety training tips) and reduce boredom, which can often be helped with regular exercise, as you mentioned, and enrichment. If you're on a set schedule (e.g. Come home from work, quick brush, dinner for you both, then a walk), she'll be far less likely to drive herself and your neighbor nuts while waiting for you. Kong toys filled with frozen treats (peanut butter, kibble, cream cheese) are great for distracting her and keeping her occupied.
  
  
• Take a few minutes to dog-proof your house the first week you introduce her to everything. This means giving everything waist-high and below a second look; GSDs are clever and great jumpers, and will get into open cupboards more easily than you think. Does your backyard have a tall fence? GSDs have been known to clear 6 foot fences (mine did often).
  
  
• Here's some recommendations for a dog seatbelt. We have friends that use both Sleepypod and Ruffwear with good success. If you plan on bringing her along for car rides often, investing in a car seat cover is a great idea; keep hair and gunk off your car and makes the backseat a more enjoyable space for her. If you're into hiking, dog boots are absolutely the way to go.
  
  A few other things worth doing that will make both your lives easier:
  
  
• Start teaching dental hygiene now! My dog is 12-years-old and besides an old injury leading to hip dysplasia (a common GSD genetic condition), the only thing deteriorating is his teeth. Dogs that eat kibble and soft food are more likely to build-up in their teeth than dogs that eat raw (which is something you might want to research). I recommend grabbing an inexpensive doggy "finger-sleeve" toothbrush or just use a simple normal toothbrush and some special dog toothpaste and get your girl used to having her teeth brushed. She looks young, judging by her thin chest and big ears, so good habits will last her a lifetime! It'll save you a bunch of vet bills in the future.
  
  
• Familiarize yourself with which foods are not dog-friendly. For example, a lot of people know that chocolate and alcohol are bad, but are surprised that nuts and grapes are bad news. Veggies like broccoli, carrots, and pumpkin are great! We used to fill my dog's Kong with frozen pureed pumpkin in the summer as a treat; kept his coat nice and shiny.
  
  
• Raw bones are ok, cooked bones are not. Most people know not to feed dogs small chicken bones, but will often toss them a rib bone leftover from a BBQ. Cooked bones splinter easily and can hurt your dog. Swing by the butcher's next time you're grocery-shopping and ask them for a bag of marrow bones. They're fantastic for her teeth and your girl will love them! Stay away from cheap rawhide bones from Petsmart and the like; they gum up when chewed and are the opposite of healthy.
  
  
• I'm seeing a lot fewer tennis balls in dog parks these days, and for good reason, since research argues that they have some wear and tear on teeth. Chuck-It balls are rubber, bright orange, and hugely popular with big dogs because they're resistant to chew. They're meant to be used with a Chuck It Launcher which I've never seen a GSD not love before.
  
  
• Get her used to nail care ASAP and invest in a good pair of clippers or an electric dremel. Clippers are cheap, but scary to use for first-time dog owners because you're not experienced yet about where the nail's quick is. This can result in some accidental blood loss and, unfortunately, your dog deciding that you have committed a grievous injury never to be forgotten. A lot of people find using a dremel to grind nails down to a blunt edge to be less traumatic for dog and owner for this reason. Figure out which is best for you! A lot of dogs are sensitive to their feet being touched--handle her paws often (great excuse to each "shake"!) and use your fingers to gently touch between her toes. Great training for tick hunting and for nail grooming.
  
  
• Ask her politely to sit before each meal and before passing through doors and gates. Teach a "release" command (such as "OK!"). If she pulls on a leash, stop and ask her to sit; proceed when she obeys and looks up to you for your next cue. GSDs are super smart and love meeting owner expectations; let her know early which manners are standard and she will learn quickly. Her #1 priority is to be your best friend; be honest with her and she'll reward you ten times over. :)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009X29WK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.jDSzbGP4S6HF

lmao

However considering the "redneck meth head who owns a giant dog" detail, perhaps this could be helpful for OP...

https://www.amazon.com/Chuckit-Classic-Launcher-Thrower-Assorted/dp/B00006IX59

Repeating and adding on to what's already been said, neither would do well in that "tank". It's too small for any fish to live comfortably and doesn't allow for many if the things needed for fish to thrive. Because you're asking a question like this you must be new to fish keeping, which isn't a bad thing. As far as the tank goes, I would try and return it if possible. Like /u/_ataraxia said, goldfish need 30-40 gallons, minimum. To better display the reason why, here is a comparason of the goldfish you buy at the store to a full grown adult. Bettas also need larger, 2.5 gallons is the semi-agreed upon minimum for bettas. I put "semi" there because many argue that 5 or 10 gallons should be the minimum.

If you want to get some fish for you daughter and care for them in a humane way I'd invest in a 10 gallon tank. 10s are small enough to be affordable for beginners and allow for more than one fish to be kept in the tank. /u/kamikazeX already mentioned that petco has a $1 per gallon sale on now which you should really take advantage of if you want to commit to this. Personally, I think a 20 gallon long tank would be much better and would only cost about $10-15 more to set up and will make your life easier. Believe it or not bigger is better and the bigger the tank the less maintenance you have to do. For things you should research a small list would be:

• The nitrogen cycle and how to cycle a tank without fish, you may want to add fish right away but that would likely kill them due to ammonia poisoning
  
  
• What fish can fit in your tank
  
  
• Please, please, pleeeaaaaaaaaase research an individual fish before buying it. All too often people buy baby common plecos aka "sucker fish" when they're little, without knowing that they get massive
  
  As far as what I'd recommend buying to get started is:
  
  
• 20 Gallon long or 10 galon (up to you, but the 20 is easier to care for)
  
  
• Aquaclear 50 (if you wanted to go with the 20) or an Aquaclear 30 (for a 10 gallon)
  
  
• Black sand (the colorful gravel may be appealing, but the paint can wear off). I say black because with the darker substrate fish show more natural colors and look better.
  
  
• Fake or real plants and some rocks or caves (personally I think that the more natural the better, and live plants help manage nitrates)
  
  
• Decent lights
  
• Small heater or an appropriate size
  
  There may be similar products for lower prices, but with aquariums you always want to buy nice, not twice. When/if you get a proper tank and it is time to add fish go to trhe store and find the ones you like, write down what they are and leave. Don't buy them, leave. Go home and do your research so you know how to care for what you're getting and that it will do well in your tank. The last time I bought fish I had done a week of research on what I was buying.

Neither of them are good. Honestly, I'd grab one from Amazon if you have time. Pick up an Aquaclear 30 or 50. They're 10x better than these.

Both these filters are some of the lowest on the market.

Oh! Excellent!!! You'll be so happy with your kitty. Here are some of my cats' favorite things:

(1) A view out an open window, facing a tree or some kind of natural shrubbery where he can chirp at squirrels or birds (if you have access to such a thing). Even if there's no "wildlife" in the area, cats like to look outside at passersby too.

(2) High places, like cat trees, or window ledge lookouts: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/images/Categoryimages/normal/p-21651-43327-cat.jpg

(3) Multiple sources of water, and preferably a running fountain. Amazon has one for $20 I think. Cats don't have much of a natural thirst drive but (males especially) are prone to urinary crystals. One of the best preventatives is drinking plenty of water, which cats are more likely to do if you give them a running source of it. You'll also find that some cats like to drink out of your own water cups lying around. It may not seem important that they get that much water, but my cat has been hospitalized twice for urinary crystals and that's way more expensive than a fountain.

(4) Scratchy posts and such. Keep them off your furniture!

(5) A litter box, preferably a covered one, in a private area. A rug underneath it will help with your own sanity because they'll kick the litter everywhere. I've turned the closet under the stairs (the Harry Potter closet) into a cat bathroom for my babies with a motion sensor light to give them privacy. I currently use this litter: http://www.amazon.com/Precious-Cat-Premium-Clumping-Litter/dp/B0009X29WK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1370152220&sr=1-1&keywords=cat+litter I used to use World's Best but it was like they were crapping in crushed diamonds, it was the most expensive thing I was getting for them.

(6) A furry bed or basket with blankets. Cats love that velvety furry texture. Mine seem to love baskets, but really anything with high walls that encloses them. If you are low on $$ then even a cardboard box with some squishies to line it are excellent.

(7) Toys that act like actual prey. My cats love Da Bird and they love this crittery thing even more: http://www.amazon.com/Da-Bird-Catcher-maker-Feather/dp/B000LPOUNW/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1370151820&sr=1-3&keywords=da+bird, and I find it's more resilient than Da Bird (they yank on it). Toy mice and crinkle balls are also a favorite. Laser pointers, catnip-stuffed anything are also favorites. I've never known cats to really like balls or larger toys much. If it looks or acts like something they'd hunt, they basically go crazy for it. Again, if you're poor, you can easily make crinkle toys out of plastic bags (just watch the kitty during playtime and put the toys away when you're not engaging), or catnip-stuffed socks.

(8) Microchip! Collar! Kitties are good at sneaking through open doors. My cat is also insured and I've saved hundreds on his vet bills, it can be a good decision.

I can't say I'm the best with food recommendations. Sometimes it just really depends on your budget and how your cat likes and responds to food you're feeding him. If he has a glossy coat, minimal shedding, and a healthy weight, it's a good food choice. Hopefully someone else can chime in with what they're feeding their kitties!

I wanted one and I hate money... but I got sifting litter boxes off amazon, the ones with the top. My god it is literally the best thing I've ever done when it came to litter. Along with one of those poop boxes or whatever they are called that has the bag that you dump the litter into.

2 of these if you get these: Do not follow the instructions and leave the sifting pan in with the litter. Have a pan with litter, then the sifting pan, then the other pan. Take out the pan with the litter, dump it into the sifting pan, then pull out the sifting pan to sift the litter. Place sifting pan back in the empty pan, and place the litter pan back on top of the sifting pan.

1 of these

w/ these generic refils

with this litter

on these mats

It is the best system I have used and I have used almost everything. I had the litter robot gen 1 and ended hating it because it would get full so fast with 2 cats and then would get shit all over itself and then getting a bag in there was a pain in the ass and it stank

To add a little to what's already been said...

Because they're purebred, their immune systems are often not the greatest. This means they can't be outdoor cars, so you need to blow off all their energy. Add in their high energy levels and intelligence, and you will need at least 45min a day and a variety of toys (that auto-laser will interest them for about 2min, before they figure it out and just punch the laser in it's origin spot) to make sure your Aby is exercised enough that it will let you sleep through the night.

Because they're purebred, they are expensive and people in the world will realize this. Seriously don't let them outside; they will be kidnapped. I have had people try to take mine from me when I have them in a carry bag and am taking them to the vet.

They are incredibly three-dimensional. Clear off the tops of all shelves... no, just clear all breakables off every space you have. Install more shelves. You do not have enough shelves.

The breed is prone to a few health issues that you need to watch out for and try to pre-treat with specific high-quality foods. Bladder/kidney issues and bad teeth. Brush your cats teeth as often as you can. May I recommend welders gloves to help save your fingers from the fallout of this activity.

They can get depressed if left alone for too long or not given enough time/attention. Depression can make them sick. Ideally, get two Abys. Otherwise, have another cat or dog around.

They will usually attach themselves to one person. They will love the entire family, but will super-freakishly-obsessively love one of you. If you are the kind of person who closes the cats out at night so you can sleep, an Aby is not for you. Being separated from you like that will cause destructive behaviour. Either embrace sleeping with your pet in a glorious snuggle-pile of love, or understand that everything you own will be broken. And not just 'cats push things off shelves' broken. I mean, they will dig into your bag, find your headphones and destroy them. They will learn to open doors, zippers, containers, cupboards and drawers. They are smart as fuck and have no problems with using their powers for evil.

I bought [this laser pointer] (PetSafe Bolt Interactive Laser Cat Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0021L8W6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WtKRBbZPXM13E) for my cat, but he's too lazy to play with it. But, it's my dog's absolute favorite toy. He chases it up walls and all over the place. When I turn it off, I literally have to hide it because he drags it back out and turns it back on and drives us insane lol

Kits tend to be more expensive and lower quality compared to buying things separately.

A 5 or 10 gallon tank from petco, pet smart, pretty much any pet store is usually only around $15 max.

An air pump, some airline tubing and a sponge filter, all about $12.

A simple adjustable heater, $9 and a thermometer, $2.

Water conditioner, a small bottle is like $6.

Those are the vital basics, for about $35.

Another thing that is a bit pricier but ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY to get as soon as possible is a liquid drop water test kit which currently on Amazon is $22. Do not get the paper test strips, they are a bit cheaper but they are completely inaccurate and they'll end up costing more because you need to keep buying new ones.

A test kit will be absolutely necessary to cycle the new tank, which, if not done carefully, can kill the fish.

If your friend can't get the test kit right away, I'd check around your local pet stores, because often times they'll offer free water testing. Until then, do big water changes (at least 50%) every day to be fairly sure the water is kept clean and safe.

Looks like an adorable dog mixed with a cute dog mixed with a perfect doggo. 12/10.

That being said, it looks like there is definitely some dachshund in there. My wife and I did a Wisdom Panel on our little mix. It gave us some insight!

Necessities

api liquid test kit

sponge filter

airline tubing for sponge filter

air pump for sponge filter

thermometer

fluval spec v kit. Comes with filter, decent light that can grow some lowlight plants, idk what else but I hear it's pretty good, I would look around on other sites to find it cheaper

dechlorinator if you don't already have it

heater, I happen to live somewhere where the temperature of my tank floats right in the bettas range, but if this isn't the case for you then you'll need a heater

You'll need something for a lid, can't find anything on amazon but you have a few options: going to a petstore and looking for a 5 gallon lid, going to other websites to look, or making a DIY lid, which can be done with greenhouse panels, or even wood if you don't mind cutting.

Substrate is optional, but if you want it you can either get pool filter sand, which you can find at your local Home Depot or lowes (assuming you're in the US), you'll have to rinse it first but it's really cheap, $8 for 50lb which is more than enough.

I would buy the tank in person at a store or on some site like Craigslist where you can find used tanks for cheap

Also, don't forget to cycle your tank, if you don't know what that is I would do some research on it, it's possibly the most important thing in keeping any aquatic creature

Off the top of my head, will continue to edit to add stuff

As someone who loves both aquariums and interior design - please god no. Get a nice coffee table then put a nice rimless tank on top. Look at how pretty this one is. Put in a beautiful betta fish or fill it with shrimp. Good beginner fish.

EDIT: changed suggested tank, this one has a better filtration system. (It's also the same one I have.)

An airstone doesn't defuse co2 properly, it's very inefficient, I suggest grabbing a DIY co2 regulator, diffuser, and a bubble counter if you wish on amazon, should cost you twenty-five dollars or so, you'll see a huge difference.

DIY CO2 Aquarium Plant System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bJyuyb1E5K3FV

Fluval Ceramic 88g-CO2 Diffuser - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCO35G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ULyuybPW9C6G2

Fluval 88g-CO2 Bubble Counter - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCPM6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DKyuybDD5AXPX

Both of those things already exist:

VorTech Powerhead for recreating natural current patterns.

Finnex 24/7 Planted Plus replicating daylight cycles and natural lighting effects.

It's one of these.

$50 is a little pricey for something so simple, but I haven't had any problems with it. Only changed the batteries once in 2 years, it's easy to program, and there's a little latch on front that makes it hard to get into.

Best purchase I've ever made

Have you considered a timed feeder? We had to get one for our adopted cat, he lived with an elderly woman before and was spoiled rotten, he was 18 pounds and insistent that hunger was unbearable. He was a nightmare until we bought an auto feeder.

We found one on amazon and it feeds him five times a day. He’s much happier now. I can’t link pretty on mobile but it’s this one and it’s worth its weight in gold!!! Fairly quiet, you can hear when it goes off but it’s not in our bedroom so we don’t notice it when it goes off at night.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B000GEWHNS/ref=mh_s9_acsd_top_b6roDDX_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-3&pf_rd_r=KSJ18SSVQ7348FK53DWG&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=868aa1b7-8387-5f06-9791-43f704a63542&pf_rd_i=6291910011

Every cat is different as to what they want to play with. Some acts like fast prey, others like to do sneak attacks. Some like air prey like birds and some prefer their toys on the ground, like mice. This toy sends most of my cats into a mad playing frenzy

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cat-Catcher-Mouse-Wand-maker/dp/B000LPOUNW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1496066031&sr=1-1&keywords=Da+bird

And a lot of people have brilliant success with laser pointers. Treat balls, where you put the treats inside and they have to work out how to get them out, are also a popular one.

Basically, just try lots of different types of toys and you'll find one he likes... and then you'll be stepping on it and retrieving it from under the sofa for all eternity.

Your problem is... you have a kitten.

Honestly, all of this sounds like a normal young cat with a lot of energy who's bored out of her mind. Different cats have different energy levels, and your mom also had multiple cats together. Your kitten is alone, so all of her entertainment comes from you or from finding things to do herself, many of which won't please you. I would check out something like this book, which is a quick, easy read and covers strategies for all of the problems you're having. In brief, here are some things to try:

• Scratching: Offer lots of acceptable scratching surfaces, both vertical and horizontal. Sisal posts and pads as well as cardboard are all great and really cheap. Put them in areas where your kitten likes to scratch. If you see her scratching the carpet, pick her up and gently move her to the scratching toy. If necessary, reward her with a treat the first few times she uses the toys.
  
• Scratching: At the same time, you want to make the carpet less appealing to scratch. Try putting down double-sided tape or tinfoil in the affected areas. Both of these are cheap, easy to remove, and won't hurt the cat or the carpet.
  
• Scratching: Keeping the cat's claws trimmed will also reduce her need to scratch, but keep in mind that scratching is completely healthy and necessary for all cats. (For one, it's how they stretch their back muscles.) If you're totally unable to get the scratching under control with toys, you might also look into getting Softpaws for her, but you probably won't need to.
  
• Activity at night: Cats are most active in the evening by nature; they're technically crepuscular. To help you get your sleep anyway, you'll need to do multiple play sessions in the afternoon and evening. Yes, that takes time, but it's a pretty fun investment in a good night's sleep. Laser pointers, Da Bird-style toys, and this weird thing are all great for high-energy play. Cat playtime should mimic hunting and stalking prey, so avoid just waving a toy in her face (which can get the cat frustrated and more wound up). Hide the toy in various spots around the house, peeking out just a bit, and make her hunt it. Make her run and jump. With my 16-month-old, playtime isn't really done until he actually starts panting. (Be reasonable with this, obviously.)
  
• Meowing: I would revise feeding times. Ideally, you should play with the kitten before bedtime, then feed her. That way she'll be worn out and ready for a long nap when you go to bed. If you're currently free-feeding, consider moving to one or two distinct feeding times. This will allow you to make food a bonding event, and if you play with her before feeding time, you'll also reinforce the sense that she's hunted successfully and can now settle down. Important: Avoid feeding her first thing in the morning, which will encourage her to meow at your door to get you out of bed. My cats eat dinner when I come home from work, then have playtime and treats right before bed. (They eat high-quality dry food for treats, but they're kind of weird.)
  
• Activity at night: Simply speaking, your cat gets bored at night, so offer entertainment that doesn't involve harassing you. There are lots of inexpensive toys she can use by herself, including puzzle toys that dispense treats. Leave her with one or two each night; change it up to keep her interested. A cat tree by a window can be a good way to let her observe nocturnal wildlife and secure her territory, and it can be a good place for her to sleep as well. If you can get her sufficiently worn out before bedtime to make this feasible, I've found that letting my cats sleep in my bedroom actually keeps them calmer and quieter. They take their cues from us settling down and going to sleep, and they feel safe to do the same. My older cat would meow at the door all night when she was young too, and we didn't start getting normal sleep until we let her sleep with us.
  
• Deterrents: You've already figured this out, but punishing cats doesn't really work. They don't understand what's going on and can get anxious and neurotic, and if they're sufficiently bored, even getting water sprayed at them can be a fun way to get attention. The best way to modify cat behavior is usually to offer more fun and interesting alternatives, while making the undesirable behavior less fun and more difficult. In your case, your kitten has figured out that meowing at your door will get you to interact with her for a solid hour and a half. To avoid this, something like the Ssscat may be a good way to keep her away from the door at night without interaction from you. However, you'll have to do this in addition to, not instead of, all the stuff above; otherwise she'll just meow at your door from three feet away.
  
  Good luck!
  
  Edit: I fail at Reddit formatting, apparently. ;_;

Aw that's wonderful! Congrats on getting sucked into the wonderful world of being a ratty owner - you're gonna love it!

So first things first: you ALWAYS adopt at least two rats. More is always preferable, and I personally think three is the best minimum because the difference between looking after 2 vs 3 ratties is honestly minimal, but that 1 extra furbaby makes all the difference to them. Rats are very very social and need friends to thrive and live happy lives. Even if you had all the time in the world and had 1 rat, you wouldn't be able to make up for all the things he needs to have with another rat(s).


Ratties are relatively simple to look after, although they do need a good bit of socializing, attention and stimulation. This helps them thrive and live happy lives. They're very intelligent and can learn a lot of things if you wish to do so - this stimulates them mentally and keeps their brains active, which again, makes them thrive!


I'll get the long stuff out of the way first and then give you a list of foods, bedding and cages after.


Generally, rats tend to adjust to new environments pretty well and they build bonds quickly too. It took my 3 boys about 2-3 weeks to become complete cuddlebugs and trust me. Of course, rats that come from a shop where they havent been socialized properly since a young age will be more shy and scared than rats from a breeder/accidental litters etc. There are different trust and bonding exercises you can do when you first get your ratties to help them adjust to their new home. There are generally 2 approaches that people take - slow and patient, or a bit more forceful. Both sides have their supporters and opposition. I find that a combination worked best for me. You just need to try and see which works best, all ratties are different. These are some of the things to do with new ratties:


When bringing the ratties home and setting them up in their cage, observe their behaviour. They will probably be a little shy but also curious, and the curious side generally tends to be stronger than the shy side! They will probably hide at first or stay in one place, but sit beside their cage and try not to make any sudden or fast movements. Just be there with them, let them smell you and get used to you, so they realize that you're a safe presence and youre not scary.


If your ratties are starting to walk around and explore their cage a little more, you can gently and slowly place your hand flat inside the bottom of the cage. Dont move, let the ratties come to you. They most likely wont be able to fight their curious side and will come over to sniff and maybe even have a little nibble on your nails, fingers etc. Dont move, let them do their thing.


Observe their behaviour and you'll be able to make a judgement on how they react to this approach. Put some porridge, apple sauce or pudding in your hand and let them lick it/eat it out of your hand. You want to pick something they wont be able to grab and run away with, which is why pudding/sauce type of food is a better choice. This forces them to eat near you and even lick you which teaches them that they can trust you, that they can get nice tasty treats and food off you and you wont hurt them.


They'll start becoming more comfortable and eventually they'll be climbing on you out of their cage when you place your hand inside, sleeping in your hoodie and riding on your shoulder. Let them do it at their own pace.


You should also spend time with them free roaming outside of the cage, to do some trust training and bonding. Many people choose to sit in their bathtub and let the ratties run around, explore and climb all over them. If you have a rat safe, smallish room, you can also sit down and let them explore and come to you etc. They'll have fun, they'll explore, play and they will start to include you. They'll gain confidence. Ratties tend to also playfight/wrestle with each other - this is normal and not a sign of aggression. The playfighting can look a bit scary if youre unfamiliar with ratty behaviour, but generally if theres no blood drawn and the rats still cuddle, eat and are relaxed around each other when theyre not wrestling, then everything is fine. They usually calm down with the wrestling after a couple of months.


Everything I described above is on the more slow and patient side. This worked beautifully with 2 of my ratties. One of them was a lot more shy however so I did try one forceful method with him and it worked amazingly.



If you do encounter a problem where a rat (or all of them) aren't really responding to these trust and bonding methods, then you can try the slightly more forceful approach. The idea in this approach is that since the rat is too timid/scared, you have to show them that they're safe with you. I had to do this with one of my rats and after 1 day, he changed completely. He became 100% comfortable and happy, he ran over to me when I came to the cage etc. Before that, he was in the hammock all day and didnt leave the cage, he didnt come to me at all.


I wore 2 shirts - one thin shirt underneath and a cozy big hoodie on top of that. All I did was take him out of the cage despite protests (squeaking and struggling was involved unfortunately) and I put him inside my hoodie. He was nice and warm there and at first he was a bit scared but he soon fell asleep. I walked around all day with him in my hoodie (obviously giving him water and food haha). Eventually he left the inside of my hoodie and started walking around on my shoulders, sniffing my face, nibbling on my hair, climbing up and down my arms etc.


That one day showed him that there's nothing to be scared of and he is completely safe with me. He will get food, water and shelter from me, he wont get hurt and he's completely safe. After that 1 day, he's been the most amazing sweet cuddlebug, very confident and very playful too!



So that pretty much covers the basic behavioural patterns and approaches - of course there's definitely something I missed and Im sure someone else here will bring up something I havent said, but that does pretty much cover the most fundamental basics.


As for food - ratties need a low fat, low protein diet. The best staple food to give them is lab blocks. A great brand that people swear by is Oxbow. The reason why this type of food is great, is because it's formulated perfectly to accommodate the ratties' diet essentials and the rats also cant be picky about which bits of food they do and dont like - this means they're getting ALL of their necessary nutrients. I wouldnt recommend getting any rat food mixes where all the nutrients they need are in separate foods all thrown together into a bag, because they're just gonna eat the bits they like and leave the ones they dont care for. Some people make their own mixes though and that works really well for them - it all depends on how picky your rats are. Personally, its hard for me to find Oxbow where I live and its very expensive to buy online, so I use this food. It's like a european version of oxbow, my rats love it and thrive on it. If your rats are young though, you want to give them a little more protein couple of times a week than is included in Oxbow or the food I use. Some boiled chicken two or three times a week until they're around 6 months or so (if Im wrong, please correct me on this, but Im pretty sure its 6 months).


You want to give them fresh vegetables to supplement their lab block diet. All the leafy greens are great for them, but other veggies are good too - just dont overdo it because the fibre will cause them to have runny poops. Rat poop should be like dry little pellets, with barely any odour unless you get all up close and personal. They might have diarrhea the first day or two when theyre in their new home just from stress, just keep an eye out on them. My ratties love cucumbers, kale, parsley, broccoli, tomatoes and spinach. Carrots are also a good choice. Try different things and see what they like. Here is a good list of foods your rats are NOT allowed to eat.


Fresh water should of course be available at all times. They should drink water only, nothing else unless you need some cranberry juice or something like that to mix with their medication if theyre sick.


As for cages - ratties need to climb, explore, run around and play. This is a rat cage calculator - select your units and put in the dimensions of the cage you're considering buying, it'll calculate how many rats can fit in the cage youre choosing. Of course this is a rough guideline, so use your best judgement - the cage may be big enough but if there's no shelves for them to climb onto or to place their food bowels etc. then its not suitable.


The ultimate cage everyone here recommends is Midwest Critter Nation. It's an expensive cage but it's perfect. Of course if youre only getting 2 or 3 rats, you dont need a huge cage like this. You can opt to get them the single Critter Nation rather than the double if you wish. That would be a great option for a smaller mischief of rats. The important things to look out for in a cage, is that the bar space isnt too big. This is especially important if youre looking to adopt girls since theyre smaller. The cage should also be powder coated, not galvanized and the bars ideally horizontal (this means the ratties can climb and its easier for you to hang their hammocks and other cage accessories).

I'd say so. I have 8 boys in a critter nation. They're (somewhat) litter trained but i do a spot clean every day. that takes only about 10 minutes. And i do a big clean on the weekends which is just the spot clean plus throwing the fleece liners in the washing machine. I give them a few scoops of Oxbow Rat food with a few scoops of brown rice in the morning, and some mixed veggies at night. And of course treats. But i try not to over feed them with the treats.

But, there are all kinds of cage options. Obviously you wouldnt need the cage mentioned above having like 2 or 3 rats. (but you must have more than 1 rat otherwise they get depressed and lonely).

Like others have said, crate train. Wrangler hated his crate the first time I put him in it, so go slowwww. Tips:

• Get a crate that's only big enough to let him stand up and turn around. Chewy sells a crate that has a divider so you can increase his space as he grows.
  
• Feed them near/in the crate. Play near the crate. When he sleeps, place him in the crate with the door open. Teach him that the crate isn't scary.
  
• Go SLOW. Start with closing the door for two seconds, then five seconds, ten seconds, etc. Do not open the crate if he whines or barks. Only open it up once he settles down. This may take a while.
  
• When introducing them to the crate, come back and leave the room to let them know that you're not abandoning them. Talk to them, but don't speak in a calming voice because it might teach them they have something to be afraid of. Speak in a regular tone.
  
• Don't use puppy pads! This will teach them to go inside the crate/house and is apparently a hard behavior to break. Yes, it is different than them going on a blanket because their scent entices them to go. You're better off just tossing a blanket in the wash.
  
• A puppy can generally hold their bladder/bowls for as many months old that they are plus one extra hour. So eight weeks, three hours. This is a general rule, and not always true, especially when they are in the crate. My 9 week old pup will go 7 hours in his crate before he whines to go outside. So do be prepared to wake up in the middle of the night to go potty. I would get an alarm app on your phone that goes off at a time (within a range you specify) where you are not in the middle of a sleep cycle so you aren't so groggy when you wake up.
  
• Put something with your scent in the crate that he won't rip to total shreds. I'd suggest a sweatshirt with drawstrings removed.
  
• I wrapped a small ticking clock up in a blanket to mimic a heartbeat to comfort my MAS. We then upgraded to a Snuggle Puppy
  
  I read a good crate training guide online, but I can't find it. When I do I will post it!

Most dog owners are also well acquainted with this principle

AquaClear 50 Power Filter - 110 V, UL Listed (Includes AquaClear 50 Carbon, AquaClear 50 Foam & AquaClear 50 BioMax https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FUM/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_FxaIwbW79Q96B

People swear by this filter. I'm actually about to purchase it for my 10 gallon as well and you can adjust the filter media and water flow on it too.

My point is that no matter what size tank OP buys, it's going to be too small. Bitching about it seems kind of dumb since it would be impossible for the average person to own a large enough tank.

The only thin OP actually needs would be a filter. Something like this will be enough for these little guys to live long happy lives. That plus regular/appropriate water changes and they'll live 20+ years easy.

It's really easy to criticize someone for their tank size when sitting across the globe and not actually paying the bill. I'm just tired of the hypocrisy. If everyone is actually concerned about the size of this type of fishes living space, they wouldn't put these fish up for sale to begin with, boycott the store that do, and tell everyone not to buy them or return them immediately... but then again, we're talking about a fish. An animal that society has universally agreed on as being less than almost all other living things. Many don't consider them meat.... I'm getting off topic but I'm at a [7] and trying to paint a picture. It's just silly to criticize or make OP feel bad for their tank size when the problem is so much worse.

10 gal is fine. I started my first SW tank a couple months ago and I got a 6 gal. Now, you will have to have to have live rock. Without it, it will be nearly impossible to have a stable tank. I suggest you get around 15 pounds. Get all the live rock you plan to have in you tank at once so your parameters don't get an ammonia spike if you have a fish inside. Aragonite sand should be fine. I would stay FOWLR (fish only with live rock) because corals are much harder. The cycle is also very similar. Set up your tank, add sand, fill with a few inches of water, add rocks and aquascape, fill up with water, add a deli shrimp, and you should be good to go. You will need some salt, a hydrometer, a good reliable heater, some lighting, a power head and test kit. And also a filter.
This is what I would get
http://amzn.com/B000260FUM
I would put the bio rings and carbon aside and replace with this,
http://amzn.com/B0002A5VK2
http://amzn.com/B004PBD4J4
Add the matrix when you start cycling, then add the purigen when you are getting fish. The reviews are speaking for the product. Purigen is simply a godsend
http://amzn.com/B00019JOSO
Go for a refractometer if you can afford it but this works fine for me as long as I tap it an there are no bubbles.
http://amzn.com/B001EUE808
The test kit.
http://amzn.com/B0036S4YZ0
This powerhead should do fine in a 10 gallon.
http://amzn.com/B003M7P9YU
This is one of the best most reliable heaters on the market. Many will fail and bake your tank but not the jagar.
http://amzn.com/B003EE5GUS
These make life a whole lot easier BN testing water or adding things like calcium. You get 10 so they should def last a while.
http://amzn.com/B008SJ1H7A
Get like 5 of these. They are extremely accurate and last around 3 months each. Wrap the wire around the tank and have one on at all times. They also help when doing water changes. You should also pick up an extra heater for water changes, via aqua and aqua top have good ones. These are made in china and sent out to companies like coralife to be package and sold for like 10 dollars, see
http://amzn.com/B0002DI4TO

Now, this is the salt I use for water changes,
http://amzn.com/B0002DJU0G
This should last you a year or two and is way cheaper then continually buying salt. I personally use tap water that has been heavily decholinated with this,
http://amzn.com/B00176CVK8
You should get your tap water tested for copper which can kill invertebrates. A 5 gallon bucket is really useful as is this siphon for water changes,
http://amzn.com/B002LL8BWU
This net is really fine and will catch most tiny debris
http://amzn.com/B008HPOCUE
You will probably find it cheaper in a store. I leave it in front of my powerhead for a hour or two every couple to days to catch debris and waste.
These tweezers help for when you don't want to get your hands wet.
http://amzn.com/B001CWDSYA
But they do start rusting after a lot of
use.
http://amzn.com/B0002E7ITK
This has been the best fish food in my experience but all fish should be fed a varied diet. This is a good staple and should be substituted with brine shrimp, mysis shrimp (frozen) and seaweed.
Not everything here is necessary, I'm just telling you what helped me make the jump to saltwater.
Here are some pics of my tank:

http://imgur.com/p3PP7X7
http://imgur.com/9kUaq1g
http://imgur.com/wtUfCb5
http://imgur.com/yl82GRn

One last thing, in a tank that size, draw a small line where you want you water level to be, when it goes below that due to evaporation, top off water. Test your salinity often in that tank. I use seachem marine buffer to deal with pH issues but chemicals and buffets should be avoided.

It's like $8 on Amazon. Make sure you get the kind that comes in a mesh bag. It is also sold loose so you can make your own bags, but that's a messy process that can easily end in failure.

This is the stuff you want.

When we decided to upgrade cages for our guys, we went with the Midwest Critter Nation double unit. It's made by the same folks who make the Ferret Nation and is almost identical, except that the bars have less space between them and run horizontally rather than vertically, making them better for smaller animals and easier to add accessories to.

It's been absolutely tremendous for them. One of our boys, Harvey, is also missing one of his front paws, and he runs about without any trouble. The Critter Nation has two main levels and two "half" levels, all of them solid and of a hard plastic that the boys haven't tried to chew on (I know, amazing - but there doesn't seem to be any reason to swap them out for metal, surprisingly). The ramps that reach from level to level come with fleece covers, so there's no chance of a paw slipping between rungs.

Here's a pic of the boys giving the Critter Nation a test drive before we moved them in. They've been in it for several months now and absolutely love it.

We had planned on buying ours through Amazon.com, then found one in our local PetSmart at an amazing price one day and brought it home, just like that. (Someone must have bought it online and returned it to the store or something - I don't think they usually carry them in-store, so we lucked out and didn't have to pay for shipping!)

Anyhow, I highly recommend this model for your three chinchillas. It has plenty of room for living, sleeping, and exercising and is safe for the boy with the missing paw. It was the best decision we ever made for our chins. :)

I'm so happy for you :)! Are all 6 already friends? If yes you wouldn't want tot separate them!

The best cage for me is the Double Critter Nation. Here is a link if you are in the USA: http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Critter-Nation-Animal-Habitat/dp/B001NJ0DAY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427583929&sr=8-1&keywords=double+critter+nation

I've got 2 of them and they are perfect :)! Big, easy to clean, sturdy, pretty much chew proof!

2 months old? And you are wondering how to "tame" him?! I rescue cats, mostly kittens and there is only one way to "tame" a rambunctious kitten-PLAY WITH HIM! Wear him out. He is a little body with all of this energy that he needs to get out...he is doing what every kitten does if someone doesn't play with them...he knocks over plants, he tears stuff up, he is a terror. Find some toys that are interactive for when you are not there but play with him twice a day for 15-20 minutes or more. I recommend a laser pointer for playtime with him. That wears a kitten out more than anything.

Use a spray bottle, squirt him when he does something you don't want him to do-BE CONSISTENT and don't let him see it come from you. You want him to think...gee, everytime I step on this table, water comes from somewhere and I don't like it. If he knows it comes from you, when you aren't there he will do it.

Here are some toys I like to use for these little guys.

http://www.amazon.com/FroliCat-BOLT-Interactive-Laser-Pet/dp/B0021L8W6K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1290270627&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/Bergan-Turbo-Scratcher-Colors-Vary/dp/B000IYSAIW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1290270627&sr=8-4

http://www.amazon.com/SmartCat-3833-Peek---Prize-Pet/dp/B0006VMN4O/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1290270627&sr=8-7
Only use this one under your supervision since he's so small...I have had a kitten get their head stuck and it took a vet to get her out after putting her under anesthetic and using a saw to cut her out.

http://www.amazon.com/Cat-Mouse-Powered-Toy/dp/B000633WZG/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1290270645&sr=8-23

http://www.amazon.com/Petmate-Crazy-Circle-Interactive-Large/dp/B0002AT5AO/ref=sr_1_49?ie=UTF8&qid=1290270658&sr=8-49

http://www.amazon.com/SmartCat-3832-Ultimate-Scratching-Post/dp/B000634MH8/ref=pd_sim_k_18


Also, do you realize that he will be this way for a few more months? Don't play with him using your hands (he will think they are toys and might bite you) and get him a scratching post. He is at the point, if he is two months old, that he can be neutered as well.

Good luck

We use this on our two Danes.. They dont seem to mind much, and its easy to take off a 1/8-1/4" without hitting the quick.. Stinks though..

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-PT-4-8-Volt-Pet-Grooming/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395630407&sr=8-1&keywords=dremel+pet

Something interesting to get is a [bob-a-lot.](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JQLNB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JiVwxbF4BKWQC
) Or a flirt pole!

Both are fun, interactive toys that you don't see too often and I would love to get them at a dog birthday party.

http://www.amazon.com/Kyjen-PP02290-Exercise-Training-Replacement/dp/B0042I5G2I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419028105&sr=8-2&keywords=flirt+pole&pebp=1419028113252

Honestly, I would not risk it and switch to a flirt pole. Mine looks like a little squirrel and I imagine your dog would very much like that.

Hey man two weeks ago I was in the exact same situation you are. My GSD is a male and 14 weeks now. Since two weeks ago his mouth has gotten extremely softer. He still has an outburst here and there and I do lose my temper sometimes, but if its one thing this little guy has taught me, it's patience. I was at the end of my rope just like you guys and figured I would give it just a little more time and I have seen a huge difference in him in those two weeks. They don't call German Shepherd puppies land sharks for no reason. Now potty training is another thing....

Also, he does try to assert his dominance over me but thats become less frequent as well. He just wants to be a leader, you can tell. He used to hump me, got his first red rocket at 10 weeks, started marking at 12ish weeks (doesn't even lift his leg yet), so I can tell that if I'm not confident and assertive that he's just going to be a hassle to not only myself but others. You have to show him that those are your children and are more important that he is. One nice thing though is that he rarely barks and when he does I remove him from the situation.

Oh and I don't exercise him every day because of those damn hips, but I do play with him a lot. It helps that I currently stay at home all day but that's not going to last for too much longer so we'll see what happens afterwards.

Anyways, this turned out into a bit of a rant but if you want to talk just shoot me a PM or something.


Edit: Get her one of these! http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042I5G2I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's like the best thing in the world to him. I'm also using it to teach him drop it so it works out. Only thing is he loves to chew on the chew toy and the rope so be careful with that or it'll come apart. Nothing some duck tape won't fix though, I hope.

This is a really handsome tank right at what I'd consider the absolute minimum for a betta fish, that seems like it'd be great in an office environment. If you've more room, here's the 5-gallon version.

I'm a sucker for bettas. My last one had a ten gallon tank with live plants because I spoil my charges, but yeah.

I'm pretty sure that although scientists and teachers often keep axolotls in pretty small set ups, that they actually deserve tanks larger than what would be reasonable in an office environment, though they're my next dream pet personally.

Check out /r/aquariums!

This video has some great advice. I used it when I got my DIY system set up. I purchased a kit from amazon for around $15. Totally worth it so far. Citric acid and baking soda lasts two weeks (when I'm doing it correctly) and I've had great growth so far. Be sure to also pick up a bubble counter and diffuser. Baking soda is easily found at any store with groceries, I had to order citric acid online because my Cub foods didn't have any. Overall the system is totally worth it for around $25.

I've heard nothing but good things about the Finnex Planted+ 24/7. In fact, I just bought one for myself because of what I read. So far, I've only had it operating for a few days but am satisfied. Notice if you scroll down on that amazon page, there is a table with other finnex lighting options that give specs on general applications, how difficult plants the particular product supports, among other things. I found that particularly useful. I went with the planted+ 24/7 because it could support plants ranging from low-high light requirements. But you can see there are others available depending on your goals.

try the azoo mignon hang on the back filter. very small and discreet https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO

https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1520309624&sr=1-2&keywords=NANO+TANK+FILTER



THIS IS LITERALLY THE BEST.

You can alter the flow to your liking as well :)

Fluval Spec V 5 Gallon Tank. http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Spec-Aquarium-5-Gallon-Black/dp/B0089E5VLC?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

My company allows the employees to gift each other with points. The points can be turned into gift cards. I got the tank for free using my points.

I'd show a picture of the tank, but im embarrassed about how bare it looks. Once I get some plants in there I'll take some pictures.

A flirt pole is like a giant cat toy for dogs.

Amazon also sells some dog breed DNA test kits! If you want to know for sure, I'd recommend grabbing one of them.

If you have about $75, you can get a pupper DNA test! Yes, a bit pricey, but so, so, so worth it. I've gotten two for my BF's dogs (Christmas and birthday presents) and we were completely blown away by the results with one- she was nothing we thought she was, and pleasantly surprised by another- he was far more purebred than we thought he'd be. (Not that that matters, it was just surprising.) It's also great to know if there is anything like German Shepherd or other large breed that has hip or back problems, so you can keep an eye out for those in particular.

Thank you for rescuing this beautiful pupper.

If you really want to know what breed(s) she is, the best thing to do would be to run a DNA test. Vets can only guess at the breed. Knowing the breed is also helpful in identifying possible hereditary diseases.

Also, considering her temperament and your lack of experience with pets, I highly recommend signing up for some training courses. Unwanted behaviors in dogs can get out of control quickly, especially if one does not know how to counter those behaviors correctly. It is a small investment up front that will greatly benefit the dog and your family in the long run.

Best of luck!

To Boomer: Grrr Woof Aroo!

[These] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IX59/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zKmcAbB6ZHD24) are really great imo. Let's you throw farther.. Used to wear my Aussie out in no time.

this is one of those where different cultures having different definitions for the same word would cause a funny situation:

You - chuck = place; as in 'place it in and go'

US - chuck = throw, potentially quite hard, with little regard for accuracy; 'throw, potentially quite hard, with little regard for accuracy at the drive slot and go'

haha. clearly nobody is actually going to read it that way, but would be humorous.

bonus: Chuckit

1. What are the dimensions of the tank? You can tell the volume from that.
   
2. Styrofoam goes under the tank, not in it. It's also completely unnecessary if you have a rim on the tank.
   
3. There's not really an 'unsafe' amount of rock. Water is also extremely heavy and the tank holds that, so any reasonable amount should be just fine as well.
   
4. The best filter for a beginner on a tank that size is hands down an Aqua Clear 50, in my opinion. It will run quietly as long as you keep the water level nice and full.
   
5. Don't buy fish store brand lights if you want plants. Invest a little bit of money in something from Finnex (planted series) that will last forever and are designed from the ground up to grow aquarium plants.
   
6. Night mode is just low-light blue LEDs most of the time. It's essentially simulated moonlight. I personally do not use any lighting at night. The Finnex Planted 24/7 has a built in, automatic night mode.
   
7. Yes, 8-10 hours is pretty normal. Less light means less algae, and yes your lighting needs will depend on hardscape and plant choices.

Aquaclear 50 is what I use on my 20 gallon, and it works well - you can skip the bullshit cartridges that most manufacturers use, I added some floss padding and purigen to polish the water (clarity) and threw out the charcoal filter that came with it. You also might need to cut the sponge that comes with it in half laterally to fit all of this and still have the bio media submerged, but that's easy.

Aquaclear 50 on Amazon

Filter floss on Amazon

Purigen on Amazon

Your LFS will likely have all of these things as well, so it's up to you if you're in a rush or want to save a few $$$ by using Amazon.

And, lastly, this is just what works for me. You might try a different setup - but many other HOB filters don't allow you to customize the filtration all that much, and are just there to sell you cartridges.

HOB filters are the Gilette of the aquarium hobby.

It will definitely make him feel better. Glad you got into the hobby and are worried about your buddy so don't take anything I am about to type as anything other than constructive :). You are much better off than I was at the start, I took months to start asking questions.

• General consensus is 5 gallons minimum is best but if you don't have that much space than 2.5 gallons will do. Anything smaller can be considered cruel (imagine being kept in a coat closet your whole life).
  
  
• Glass that is not flat can also be considered cruel (and is actually outlawed in some countries) as it can skew their vision and mess with their eyes quite a bit. Think of it like you or I looking through Fish-eye lenses all day.
  
  
• Filters and heaters are a necessary part of fish ownership. Bettas are tropical fish and thrive best in water that is between 78° and 82° Fahrenheit. You will want to get an adjustable heater to make your life easier (as opposed to one that has a preset thermostat). Aquatop makes some great heaters and are generally what I steer new fish keepers towards. They are cheap and reliable.
  
  
• Filters are another key part of healthy fish ownership (unless you are an expert using advanced filtration methods with live plants, this isn't you...or me for that matter :)). The size of aquarium you decide to get will determine what kind of filter will best fit your setup. If you do decide to go with a 5 gallon or larger, I would recommend a hang-on-back filter like this one. The whole reason I prefer a hang-on-back to a sponge filter or other type is that you get to be more selective with the media you put in the filter and can customize it to fit your needs.
  
  There is so much more to this hobby and first and foremost you will want to understand the development of the Nitrogen Cycle (building up beneficial bacteria that can process fish waste) and how incredibly important it is.
  
  Here are my two favorite guides: Fish-less cycle / Fish-In cycle (this is probably the one you will need to follow since you already have your fish).
  
  Finally, be sure to check out the caresheet in the sidebar. It contains a ton of useful information.
  
  If you have any more questions please don't hesitate to ask.

Do you have a hang on back filter? Depending on the model, you can throw some different materials into it.
Buy the huge sheet of filter pads for mechanical filtration. Give it a gentle squeeze in a bucket of aquarium water about once a month.
Poly-fiber can also be used for it. They sell it at Wal Mart for pretty cheap. You'd have to replace it every two weeks or so.

For biological filtration, pick up some ceramic rings. Cleaning is the same as the filter pads. You'd only really have to replace them if they were breaking down.

You can use Seachem Purigen if you want something for chemical filtration. I don't have any experience with this, but it get great reviews.

Activated carbon isn't really needed in the filter unless you need to remove medication. Purigen would clear up any discolorations just as well and can be recharged.

Carbon can remove much than tanins from the water - not always a bad thing but not always good either. As for how quickly it works, in my experience it is fairly quickly often with 24 hours.

But if you just want to remove the tea color from the water perhaps think about using Purigen and be sure to get this bag if you buy a bottle of it.

The recommended amount is often too much. If that amount makes him chunky, feed him less. Also, you can get him active with toys like these: link link link

I have two cats, and they really love a Cat Dancer type of toy - like this one.

To make it extra fun, I've attached a catnip filled toy to the end of it. The "Yeoww" brand catnip toys are by far the strongest, it's crazy smelly. My cats really like it.

Mine is cat litter. Why? Because I just took weeks out of work because my boo wasn't doing well, and my paycheck is suffering. Shit sucks moneywise right now. :(

If she’s having issues sleeping at night, we got our pup this heartbeat dog toy. I thought it was a total gimmick, but holy hell it is awesome. Totally worth the $40


https://www.amazon.com/SmartPetLove-Snuggle-Puppy-Behavioral-Brown/dp/B000C9YHFS/ref=asc_df_B000C9YHFS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198076665015&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5067980424931547813&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008335&hvtargid=pla-352722601139&psc=1

Invest in one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9YHFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5KRrybP8ATAGN

I've been there. My pup screamed like she was being murdered all night and I couldn't sleep. 99% sure the neighbors would have called the cops on me, honestly.

Your puppy is scared. Puppies cry like that to alert the rest of their family that they're lost. He has NO idea where he is and he has been separated from his littermates and mother and all he's ever known. So it'll be like this for a couple of nights.

If you get your puppy from a breeder (or even a rescue where he/she was part of a litter), ask them to provide you a blanket or towel that the other puppies have slept with - when it's time for the puppy to come to your house, he/she will miss his littermates more than anything else. We combined that with a Snuggle Puppy and it helped him overnight a lot (remember - it's a HUGE change to go from spending every moment in a squirmy, warm, heartbeat-y pile of pups to sleeping alone in a crate).

Puppy blues are real. Know and prepare.

Read Before and After Getting Your Puppy and Perfect Puppy in 7 Days - 90% of the advice I could give that saved us came from those books. They're wonderful.

As others said, the biting is insane. Have realistic expectations. Potty training takes a long time. Growing out of biting takes a long time. Sleeping through the night takes a long time.

Parvo risks vary from area to area, so ask your vet whether you should take your pup out in public - and if they say don't go in public, understand that they mean your pup shouldn't walk where unvaccinated dogs have possibly been (for instance, we didn't go on the trail near our house or on our front sidewalk because our house is directly on the route to the trail). But you CAN and SHOULD do playdates with vaccinated dogs, have lots of puppy parties at your house and friend's houses, meet TONS of people of all genders/races/ages/etc., take him/her to dog-friendly places like Lowes (I used the cart when I was nervous about him getting parvo from the floor - it's more about socialization than exercise!), etc.

http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-5-Meal-Automatic-Pet-Feeder/dp/B000GEWHNS

just buy two of these, they are a lot cheaper.

It isn’t out of character but needs fixing.
There are a few things you can do.

• he needs to get all that energy out. Is he alone all day? Get laser pointers to start him up running and going crazy, then move on physical toys like this one and ping pong balls you can throw around, so you can make him play while keeping a safe distance.
  
  
• buy him a tall cat tree, make sure he has crazy playtime sessions a few times a day, always followed by some wet food. You don’t need to play with him for a long time, many 10 minutes sessions are the way to go.
  
  
• never play with your hands. Never ever.
  
  
• if the cat bites or scratches don’t scream, don’t hit him, just put your index finger horizontally on his nose and push slightly towards his face. He will let you go and also know he’s done something wrong, as this is the way mum cat will teach kittens to stop biting. After that don’t engage him for at least 15 minutes.
  
  
• every single person in the house needs to abide by these rules. At all times. And be consistent.
  
  
• if he still shows a knack for fighting with hands, you can train him to fight when you’re wearing an oven glove. If you’re consistent with the other tips he’ll soon learn that he can fight and bite when you’re wearing the oven glove and not when your hands are naked.
  
  Ideally, he should get a kitten companion if at all possible, especially if he’s alone a lot. Better even if the other kitten has been properly socialised by mum and siblings.

The specs keep changing week to week with firmware updates. Here's the current setup:
-5200mAh, good for about 20 minutes of flight time before needing a recharge (battery life keeps increasing with use)
-Here's the remote controller I'm using, surprisingly awesome battery life!
-range: about 20 laps of indoor around the house flying
-motors: 4 individual of unknown make (catdrone found in crawl space)


10/10 would purchase again

Yeah definitely - I did a fishless cycle for about a month, using only the Fluval overflow filter that comes with the tank. This was great for getting the bio filter stabilized, but the water flow was too strong for a Betta and the mechanical filtration was weak. So I went to my LFS and purchased a KollerCraft TOM Mini Filter, and ran the Fluval system simultaneously with the KollerCraft to ensure the bio filtration transferred to the KC. Since then, I unplugged the Fluval filter and have only run the KC - and it's much more effective filtration. As for lighting, the 7000k LED light that comes with the tank is fantastic, but it's too close to the water line in my opinion. I had nasty algae blooms for a couple weeks, then came across a fellow Redditor who 3D printed the extension for the Spec III. I immediately requested one and received it in the mail a few days later. The combination of the KC Tom Filter and the light extension has resulted in no algae for 6 months. The most important factor is water changes though, so you should be changing 20-30% of the water every few days to keep your water parameters in check. Does this help?

The cage it's self is oookay? It's kind of a small price jump from that one to the Critter Nation cage which is pretty much the best cage you can get besides making a crazy huge custom one so to me I'd just save a bit more and get the creme of the crop cage.


The wheel in the listing you've provided is dangerous for glider tails, most owners prefer the "stealth wheel". I have a stealth wheel and my gliders LOVE it, they are constantly playing on it. When I looked up the kind I had it was no longer available and it seems they've made a new version which is the one I've linked, I can't speak for it's quality as I don't have that model but it looks like the same and better plus less bulky then mine. I'm totally going to get one now that I know they exist haha


I don't know what the food they've shown is but if anyone tells you you can get by feeding gliders with only pellet food and no fresh fruits or meal worms they're trying to sell you something!


Good luck on your glider journey!

I would recommend a cage that is both long and wide rather than tall. While tall is nice so that they can have fun climbing, it is more important that they have wiggle and walking room. A cage with a larger area per floor will allow a lot more room to run, stretch, and play.

The best cages to buy are the ferret/critter nation cages. They are wide and long which allows plenty of room. If you're on a budget, a single layer will cost you about $150-$200, but it's well worth it. It comes with a base floor for your fuzzbutts along with a shelf for them to climb onto. Here's a link to it on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Critter-Nation-Single-Unit-Stand/dp/B0085W9CL8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1410383879&sr=8-3&keywords=critter+nation

If you have a bit more money to spend, I recommend going with the same thing, but the two layer cage. This will give them double the play room and satisfy their need to climb and explore. It's also not too tall, so you don't have to worry about them falling/jumping off. Here's a link to that one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NJ0DAY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I, myself, purchased the double layer cage along with an extra "attachment" layer on the top. I dedicated the bottom cage to pooping/eating, the middle layer to playing, and the top to sleeping. It takes up a good amount of space in my room (being a bit over 7 feet tall with all three layers), but my three carpet sharks love it, and it's got the durability to last you a lifetime. (:

I hope I've helped! Let me know if you have any more questions or concerns, and I would be happy to help the best I can!

I wouldn't recommend that Kaytee cage.

The size is nice but the spacing between the bars is 1 inch. Young rats and smaller adult female rats will be able to squeeze between these bars. A 1 inch bar spacing is generally fine for adult male rats (>6 months).

Also, that style of plastic base can be chewed through by some rats. Some rats (not all) can be crazy plastic chewers.

A good cage for a pair of rats would be one that has a 1/2" bar spacing, cannot be chewed through to escape, and provides at least 5-6 fit^3 of interior space (the more the better, though).

My favorite cages for a pair of rats would be a powder coated Martin's cage (R-680 $105 + shipping or larger) or a single unit Critter Nation ($105). Martin's cages are smaller and lighter weight and can sit on top of a table, desk, or dresser. They're easier to transport and bring outside to scrub down. Critter Nation cages are massive. Like, massive-massive. The double unit cage (currently a really, really good price on Amazon $157) enormous but even the single is really quite huge. The whole front of the cage opens up, which is also a really nice feature. The problem is that they're huge and incredibly heavy and very difficult to take apart to move around or transport.

Other decent cages include the Rat Manor ($60) and the large Mcage ($60). Between these two cages, I lean toward the large Mcage because it's larger and has bigger doors but you would want to take out the stupid wire mesh floor on the bottom of the cage.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/FroliCat-Bolt-Automatic-Laser-Cats/dp/B0021L8W6K

(I know … it's not quite a cat chasing laser. It's still close enough for the gag value here, surely? And, also, an example of never underestimating the results of crossing human ingenuity with human laziness)

Get a Dremel. My dog hates having her nails done but this helps and if you do it once a week each nail only needs a couple seconds.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-PT-4-8V-Nail-Grooming/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?gclid=CjwKCAjw-ITqBRB7EiwAZ1c5U6B-ZgXHftq0k1wpSGxTsA1RXndQazBXY1UcMPQxLMtypQOLGPP9dBoCbBEQAvD_BwE&hvadid=178372441138&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9003516&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=2906473794459825708&hvtargid=aud-676677759484%3Akwd-11844123421&hydadcr=15947_9888708&keywords=dremmel+dog+nail+grinder&qid=1564588389&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1

That particular one isn’t great. You have to replace the batteries which is annoying and it’s just not very powerful. If you want to buy a nail grinder I recommend just getting a Dremel . The battery can be recharged and it will last a long time.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-PT-4-8V-Nail-Grooming/dp/B003TU0XG4

I use this. Dog might be scared of the noise though. If your dog is scared of things like vacuums you're gonna have to just trim it yourself with the simple clippers.

I use a Dremel to grind my pups nails. It took him a little bit to get used to it, but for me, it is easier to see where the quick is.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-PT-4-8V-Nail-Grooming/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1517489576&sr=8-2&keywords=dremel+dog+nail+grinder

I feel your pain. Nail trimming can be a total nightmare (for you and your dog). If you're using actual clippers, make sure they are very sharp (dull blades will squeeze the nail, causing a lot of pain and sometimes cracking the nail). Dremel trimmers are definitely something worth looking into too. But even with the best tools, it can be a huge chore. I had a dog who passed away a few months ago who would just lay there and let you trim his nails. Sometimes he'd actually fall asleep while you did it. He was a godsend.

They make one specifically for dogs
Dremel 7300-PT 4.8V Pet Nail Grooming Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sRJVzbV6SE0PA


But I use my pedicure one and it works great on my dog
Amopé Pedi Perfect Electronic Foot File, Extra Coarse https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013AX6U6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yQJVzb7T1EP9F

We've just abandoned any stuffed toys for Joe, because what is enjoyable for him is methodically ripping them apart. The first thing he goes for is the tag, because he knows that comes off easily, and after that he goes for the seams :)

Anyway, best toys for him are ones that we play with together: this flirt pole is great and I'm surprised how sturdy it is; we have a rope tug toy (it used to be a snake but the head was stuffed and so it got ripped apart within 24 hours!); and we have a Hol-ee roller ball which he enjoys chewing occasionally and chasing even more rarely! The holes are a little big to put regular treats in, but once I put the end of his rawhide chew in there and he had a LOT of fun with it, and another time I stuffed it with socks and an old dishcloth for him to pull out the holes because I thought it would replace stuffed toys a bit more safely. Then he tried to eat my sock, so I haven't done it since :P But it's fine if you're going to supervise!

We also have a rawhide chew for him and an antler. He really likes the antler; I think next time I would get the antlers that are split down the middle so that it's even more attractive to him.

I wouldn't recommend fishing line. It can get caught up in the dog or you and would be more painful than something thicker. Well, if you are as clumsy as my dog and I are, it can. My dog uses her paws and the cord on mine caught on her carpal pad. It gave her a little burn :(

She also once knocked my feet out from under me while chasing, which shocked us both but luckily we were both ok. I am really careful now to not have her cross behind me!

I have this one. I like it. The toys that came with it didn't last very long, but I just use other toys that I already had.

Yes! I second this. I just got a different version of this toy today and we all LOVE it! We live in an apartment and I'm not comfortable taking my puppy out on walks since she still needs to finish her puppy shots. The toy in the model we got squeaks and rattles! Plus it comes with a second replacement toy to attach when the other gets worn out.

outward hound tail teaser

One more piece of advice if you're going to go with a betta fish.

Since you have an airpump and stone, ditch the power filter and get a sponge filter. Bettas don't like a lot of flow and the filter that came with the tank will blow the betta all around the tank. To clean the sponge you just swish it in old tank water and put it back.

You won't need to change it ever, just clean it/rinse it with used (non-chlorinated!) tank water while you're doing tank maintenance every so often. (I clean my betta's sponge filter real good once or twice a month by giving it a few good squeezes in a bucket of used water before I throw it out.)

Basically you'll want a small air pump like this along with a tank-size appropriate sponge filter. I recommend one like this *and some airline tubing to connect them :)

that is way to expensive for how small it looks (though I didnt see dimensions listed which is a huge red flag) also my gliders have NEVER had a problem with vertical bars in the 4 years I have had them.

If horizontal bars are a must for you there are much nicer cages with bars also the tunnels are pointless an
d there are much better ways to add environmental enrichment.


all of these cages are nice:
https://www.exoticnutrition.com/Departments/Shop-By-Category/Cages/Sugar-Glider-Cages.aspx
https://www.thepetglider.com/collections/sugar-glider-cages-accessories
https://www.amazon.com/MidWest-Critter-162-leak-Proof-Measures/dp/B001NJ0DAY <<the double critter nation is a good size and has horizontal bars

Also, knowing how shady pocket pets is I would never ever recommend supporting them.

Can go wrong with a double critter nation cage. You can keep 4+ rats in one alone! My babies love it.

ETA: https://www.amazon.com/MidWest-Critter-162-leak-Proof-Measures/dp/B001NJ0DAY

https://www.amazon.com/MidWest-Critter-162-leak-Proof-Measures/dp/B001NJ0DAY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=midwest+critter+nation&qid=1572996901&sprefix=midwest+critt&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE3NUZNUUpKNUE4QU0mZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAyMTQzMzkxVDlYVk40UVk0UEc2JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0NTc1NDUxNVVETFIyUFZXWUdSJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

It's a Midwest double critter Nation cage attached to a second one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001NJ0DAY

That's the cage we have and our two love it. I agree that it's too rusty for him. Especially if he chews where it is rusted.

Also if you live near a Joan fabrics they usually have fleeces on sale. So you can get yards of cute patters for relatively cheap! We load them up with it so they have comfy little places to sleep when they don't feel like sleeping in their beds

This cage is more expensive ($250 before tax + shipping), but it is probably the best cage on the market for gliders. Out of the box its perfect. Horizontal bars, lots of space. shelves. LARGE doors. Its even modular, you can add more sections on.

This is from a link in the sidebar - http://ratguide.com/care/environment/housing_needs.php - there's tons of more helpful links there

Just so you know, you want a bigger cage, not smaller. Most people here save up for the biggest cages they can afford. One of the most popular ones I see here is the tall 63" Critter Nation - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NJ0DAY?ie=UTF8&tag=httpwwwathing-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B001NJ0DAY - sometimes they can be found used on Craigslist for cheaper.

Keeping rats in cages that are too small is cruel and inhumane, and you'll end up with very sick, stressed, and miserable animals.

While you're in the research stage, it'll be helpful to look up the vets in your area, to see if there's any who specialize or have knowledge rats/small animals. HTH

Trump is better on his feet then liberals give him credit for.. that’s a great quality to have when playing politics..

What do dems have? “Orange man bad” what does trump have PetSafe Bolt Laser Cat Toy, Automatic Laser Cat Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0021L8W6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2-5IDb4X4BN7G

Dems show how full of shit they are when they try and get trump on bullshit.. we are looking for an excuse to can him instead of beating his ass in the field..

Dems do not have the ability to beat him in the field because all their complaints can be used against them.. they are full ass hypocrites..

This is why I support tulsi.. she isn’t in this to say orang man bad.. she’s in it for us.. beating trump isn’t the mission, empowering and protecting Americans is the mission..

To average voters.. dems want to tax you more, and take away your rights and hate on everything America.. republicans want to lower taxes, shoot guns and have screaming eagles with American flags..

If we were serious about winning we would change our image.. we love our country and only want to make it better.. we shouldn’t get lost in the weeds trying to please specific constituencies.. (looking at you warren) dems need a little more empathy for their fellow American.. we are all doing the best we can even if that isn’t good enough..

If you really want to drive her crazy get her THIS

The best decision we made was to get a dog nail grinder.

I just had a hard time with clipping nails, and being afraid of clipping to close. The grinder, just like with clipping, takes some patience and training with rewards, but I can grind a whole paw of nails very quickly, and not have to work very hard at it. Plus, if you do correctly the nails are then smooth and not jagged.

This is the one I use at my salon. It's durable and long lasting. Safe to use on puppies 2 months and older.
Dremel 7300-PT 4.8V Pet Nail Grooming Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AqwNBbFX8K8ZA

I bet he would chase a flirt pole.

I've got a high energy lab mix too, and as many people have said here, walking just doesn't cut it. Several people have recommended fetch, which has been a huge help. Additionally, this thing has been a lifesaver. Basically, anything that gets him running hard and will help you drain his excess energy quickly.

Have you tried a flirt pole for him to chase?

Also, what kind of training have you tried? He's only a puppy, so I'd hate for you to write him off as "dim" when really he just might not be...properly motivated. Check out Kikopup's puppy training videos and start clicker training to get him thinking, which should help tire him out (and training is always good).

Additionally, maybe look into an interactive feeder for another mental challenge. I use the Kong Wobbler to feed my dog her meals, and I think that might be the best thing I've purchased for her yet.

Edited to add: Hide and seek is also a great indoor game to get your pup moving and thinking. You can hide yourself and have him find you, or I just hide little treats around for my dog to sniff you. I can really tell her gears are turning and she's actually working when she plays this game! I'd also look into what kind of group training classes are in your area and talk to local trainers--he's definitely not to young to do basic obedience, and from there he may be able to start with classes like agility or flyball which will really wear out an active adult dog.

I don't think I've been "formally" introduced to you lovely people even though I've seen some of your contests going on here before ;)

For gift one: Either [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Neff-Womens-Cupcake-Beanie-Velvet/dp/B005HSWZNK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=39B8AKCSDRT5J&coliid=I1UFRCZ07903KE&psc=1) or [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Ticket-Stub-Diary-Eric-Epstein/dp/1452114226/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=1NPR8WP3XYH58&coliid=IXBG9Y68EXA72) both I've been wanting for a long time because I saw that hat on a little girl at the school I used to work for and have been obsessed but can't find it anywhere, and I collect tickets from everything I go to... so having a way to organize them would be awesome!

For gift 2: Also decently under $20 is [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Kyjen-Tail-Teaser-Dog-Refill/dp/B0042I5G2I/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2IR97ZBE8XCJR&coliid=I27I9XMHLTKH2U) which I would absolutely love because I just moved (again) and need to spend more time with my pups!

So c'mon...gimme something good! :b

(I don't know you, but I love you, you wonderful and beautiful people, you!)

This is a flirt pole. It's basically like a giant cat toys for dogs. You'll want to avoid a lot of sharp turns and jumping with it until he's older. My dog loves this. He usually plays with it for an hour a day, which is great exercise since he's sprinting the entire time. It's also good for teaching impulse control (drop it, leave it, get it, wait)

I've heard a lot of stories about dogs becoming fixated on lights/movement after laser pointers to the point of obsession. I just don't think it's worth risking.

Socialization and obedience classes for sure. Aussies usually do well in competitive OB, if you're interested. Agility would be tons of fun too. There are online classes you take, as well. These shouldn't replace classwork (since you'll miss out on socialization and distraction training) but it will be something you can do at home. I recommend Fenzi for online stuff.

Mental stimulation is super important, especially for your breed. Aussies were bred to work and they need to be entertained and stimulated. Start with 5-10 minute training sessions throughout the day, as often as he seems interested. Use his meals for training sessions too so he has to earn every piece. This is an example of how to teach beginners nose work. There's a really great Fenzi intro to nosework class if this interests you. Tracking, hide and seek, barnhut etc are all examples. It's really anything that makes him work his brain.

edit: grammar

Looks like you have a good list going, remember to update your pups microchip with your address and get him/her a tag with your details.

We got a 36 inch crate and it's plenty big for our boy (he's around 30 pounds).

Puppia harness is a great starter harness, it's soft and doesn't have a bunch of metal jingling pieces which our puppy HATED on his harness our breeder gave us.

Kibble, check out dog food advisor for reviews and ratings of foods content, we were using grain free salmon and sweet potato from chicken soup for the soul, it's decently priced and well rated I can't find it anywhere atm so we're switching him back to their normal kibble.

Salmon Oil is a lifesaver in the winter, our pup gets terribly dry skin and extremely itchy without it.

Start out with a puppy kong, they sell kong fillers that are cheese and peanut butter flavored, our puppy was pretty picky at first and only ate the cheese one, didn't like frozen kongs either.

I'd start with a Basic Collar here's a Dog Tag Silencer and a Break-away collar for outdoors or dog park. A dog was choked unconscious at our park so I typically just keep our guys ID tags on his harness and don't use a collar, but if you do I definitely recommend a break-away if you are primarily using a harness with it.

Items we found useful: Bed Liner, Crate Fence, Kong, Stainless Steel Bowls (highly reccomend US made do not buy any made in China for health reasons), Zippy Paws Hide and Seek toys, Potty/accident cleaner, Potty Bells, Anti-chew Bitter Apple spray, 50 ft Leash, Retractable Leash, Soft stop Leash extender, Car Seat Belt, Car Booster Seat, Gentle Shampoo, Comb, Travel Water Bottle, Flirt Pole, Special Treats, Chew Stick, Greenies

Sorry for the HUGE list lol, feel free to ask any questions!

Oh and if your dog likes Kongs, these are great:

http://www.amazon.com/KONG-Wubba-Large-Colors-Vary/dp/B000MD57ZI

And they do squeak. Annoyingly so. I mostly use it when playing fetch, because I can't stand the squeak indoors. No stuffing.

And flirt poles are also great for supervised play and getting puppy energy out... I can't recommend them enough. They do rattle as well as squeak. Not super "tough", but thought it deserved a mention.

http://www.amazon.com/Kyjen-Tail-Teaser-Replacement-Squeaker/dp/B0042I5G2I/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1413941779&sr=1-2&keywords=flirt+pole

I’d be interested to see if he was actually being “aggressive” or if he was just playing. As stated earlier pits have extremely high pain tolerances. (But they do in fact feel pain). I have bruises and one pretty gnarly scar from playing with mine who is about 80 lbs. Mostly, it happens when we go out to play fetch. He gets over worked and extremely excited and starts to come at me instead of the toy.

My suggestion: shut it down quickly. Simply grab the collar and get him to sit down, and don’t let him move until he is calmed down. The more you push, hit and kick, the harder he is going to try to bring you down, because that is how pits play, by trying to pin each other. Hitting your dog is never the answer.

Get or make a flirt pole , as it creates a greater distance between you the dog and the toy, which will help keep his attention focused on the toy and not on you.

Get a sponge filter like this: https://www.amazon.com/XINYOU-XY-2835-Aquarium-Cylinder-Sponge/dp/B005LMQCW2/ref=asc_df_B005LMQCW2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167154348866&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=46583133798037292&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032191&hvtargid=pla-307225004780&psc=1

Get some gravel and maybe some plants like anacharis. Fill the tank, dechlorinate the water. Let the tank run for a week with nothing in it. Add some food when you start this. Dont fill the tank to the top, leave about an inch or an inch and a half at the top (for the mystery snail). (Read about cycling your tank).

Red cherry shrimp eat mostly biofilm and algae. So if you feed lightly, they'll clean up the tank. Mystery snails eat veggies so a blanched zucchini or spinach is definitely good for them. They need a lot of calcium so spinach and dark greens are recommended.

Change 10-20% of your water volume each week. Vacuum the gravel to remove poop. Dechlorinate before you add the water. If you put anacharis in there, prune them monthly. Throw away bottoms of the plants, as tops are where they actively grow. You can keep them in the gravel or floating. It doesnt matter. Monthly take your sponge filter out, and squeeze it out in the water you took out of your tank before you throw it away. Dont rinse it in tap.

If you want you can add some wood like oak or cholla wood into the tank. Make sure you soak the wood in a bucket for a good long time, maybe weeks, until it sinks and the water stops turning brown. Boiling can help it along faster. Wood will help bacteria grow and give the shrimp more food.

Tank: I would suggest a 10G tank if you want tankmates other than ghost shrimps and snails. Petco $1 per Gallon sale is here until April 12. So a 10G would be $10. A 5G isn't part of the sale so the price of that is around $14. Cheaper to get a 10G!

Once of you an appropriate sized tank, some tetras would work or an ADF would work. What kind of tetras are you thinking of getting? Keep in mind that there are quite a few tetras that won't work with Bettas because they nip the long fins of the Betta.



Filter: I would suggest a sponge filter/air pump. That's what I use in my betta tank. It filters the water but don't create a current so the betta won't get pushed around and stressed.

What you'd need for a sponge filter:

• Sponge filter
  
  
• Air pump
  
  
• [Airline tubing] (http://www.amazon.com/Lees-Airline-Tubing-25-Foot-Standard/dp/B0002APXOQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1396795175&sr=8-2&keywords=airline+tubing)
  
  
  
  Heater: I haven't used enough heaters to really recommend a brand but adjustable ones would work the best and you can control the temperature better.
  
  I hope this helps!
  

• Labs are notoriously fast eaters, so maybe a puzzle toy? Here are some good ones: 1, 2, 3. You can also never have enough Kongs, and they're sold at big box pet stores.
  
• A cool fetch toy might be fun too, like a Chuckit or a Ball-on-a-Rope. You can find Chuckit products at the big box pet stores. I like the ball-on-a-rope for training...I can throw it, tug with it, dangle it like a flirt pole, and it fits in my pocket. This Frisbee is good for training too because I can fold it up and put it in my pocket. Plus it glows in the dark and floats!

Tollers are great. I have a Toller and a Newf, and while the Newf is far more loving and an all around better "people dog", I love my Toller for all her quirks.

Like /u/Phog91 said, Long trails and wide open fields combined with a Chuckit is the best thing you can do. The Newf strolls along with me while the Toller loses her mind running around, fetching.

Hi - I have a Belgian Shepherd myself (Sheepdog variety, aka Groenendael). She is five now and much calmer than she was as a puppy, but as a pup, we were in the dog park twice a day (morning and night) for about 30-60 minutes each time, usually playing fetch (or she was herding other dogs).


You have a few options here other than just giving the dog up, but they will require you to commit time and some money to this.


First, wake up early and go to the dog park. I have something called the chuck it that I used all the time when my Belgian was a puppy. This toy let me avoid picking up disgusting tennis balls by hand while also throwing the toy way further than I typically could. Your dad working 9-5 is like my work schedule - I would wake up at like 6:30, take her to the park, come home around 7:15 and then feed her and get ready for work. She was used to be kenneled from about 8-12 when I would come home over lunch to let her out (I lived 5 minutes from my office). It wasn't much of a break, but it split up the day a bit for her. I would go back to work and leave her with a frozen kong toy that would mentally keep her occupied while I was gone. When I came home, I let her out, changed clothes, and off to the park again.


Also, have you considered doggy daycare or a dog walker? Days I knew would be long in the office, I couldn't get home, or had an event in the evening - she would go to daycare. It was about $25 a day but she basically was running and playing with other dogs for 9 hours. Great socialization and she was exhausted. Dog walker prices vary by area - I would check with some local rescue groups and see who they recommend (they should know the reputable walkers in the area).


Finally, the pup needs training. Either go to PetCo or PetSmart to get started with basic obedience and then graduate to other classes. My little girl was in advance obedience at 6 months old - she was on track for agility training when she was full grown (recommended as to not hurt her growing joints) but we moved and an agility facility was unfortunately nowhere near by. However, that said, I still kept up her training and daily dog park trips.


If you aren't willing to dedicate the time and energy to the breed, you're going to have a hell of a time. They're great dogs but you have to put the time in to working them out, physically and mentally. If you can't, see if the breeder will take the pup back (most will if they're good) and if not, contact the Belgian Shepherd rescue group - they probably have a foster system of some sort setup. Other local rescues may be able to help as well, just make sure they are foster based or have a private facility - don't just give the dog to animal control or the town shelter.

No problem!

Tiring out dogs can be a real pain. Thankfully I have 2 that play well together... One that has a never ending drive to retrieve, and one that loves to be chased. I throw the ball for the one that wants to be chased, and they run in big circles around me for 30 minutes non-stop, then we go inside and they pass out on the cold tile floor in the bathroom! It's fantastic. Haha.

The best advice I can give you is to use high value rewards. One of mine loves fetch just for the sake of fetch. The other wants a food reward. We had to initially get him interested by "trading" a ball for a small slice of hot dog. Once he understood that, we'd toss the ball 2-3 ft away, and he'd bring it back for more hot dog. Then we slowly moved to 10 ft, 20 ft, then full tosses. Once he gets the hang of it, you can phase the hot dog out (1 piece every other retrieve, then every third, then every fifth) until he's really just playing fetch because they like it.

My other big point of advice would be to get a Chuck It Launcher and a pack of Ultra Balls. The launcher makes it way easier to throw for a long time, as you don't have to bend over to pick the balls up, your hands don't get nasty, and the balls go farther. And the ultra balls are great because they are a near-indestructible rubber rather than the tennis ball that comes with the launcher (and they float!).

Would recommend this one: https://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Clear-Power-Filter-AquaClear/dp/B000260FUM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1536260246&sr=8-2&keywords=aquaclear+filter

It would work good for a 20 gallon tank and it has an adjustable flow switch, so you can mess around with that to find the perfect flow for your axolotl, they are all different and it depends on the size. But it would never hurt to also have a sponge filter in there, but a single sponge filter isn't going to cut it as the only source of cleaning.

I'll just give you my generalize copy/pasta I usually hand out in situations like these so if you wanna read it when you got a chance, then you have it! Also has tips and purchase links for Amazon as well for different axolotl stuffs.


HOW TO CYCLE:

1. Set up tank with clean conditioned water. 2. Add recommended amount of beneficial bacteria per label
   
   
2. Add "waste" to the tank, so a little bit of say fish flakes ( they're cheap and you need a waste source since you DO NOT put a fish or axolotl in a uncycled tank. The flakes are gonna break down into ammonia. The goal with cycling is to get benefical bacteria to build up so they can change (eat) the waste & breaks down the ammonia into nitrite then finally break it down further into nitrate. All these chemicals can hurt axolotl.
   
   
3. Test tank a couple days later with a testing kit ( avoid strips, they will lie to you and give false results) if there is ANY ammonia or nitrite present, you arent cycled. If there is no nitrate present either, you arent cycled.
   
   
4. If you find ammonia or nitrite, take 50% of the water out and add clean treated water. Add more seachem stability ( benefical bacteria) ( add these each time you change water. Even if it's cycled)
   
   
5. Add a pinch more flakes & Continue to do this until your tank is cycled. Meaning you have no ammonia, no nitrite and a presence of 40ppm or less of nitrate.
   
   
   
   Warnings:
   1.If your tank isn't cycled, you are going to chemical burn them with ammonia in the water. And they will suffer. Nitrate ( the final of the chemical process) can also burn the fish/axolotl. This is why we keep this number under 40ppm. If it is higher than 40ppm, change the water 75%.
   
   
6. This beneficial bacteria lives in the filter. If you change your filter, you just ruined your cycle. Don't do this. If it gets nasty/clogged & you have to replace the cartirage, leave the old cartirage in with the new one for a few days so the beneficial bacteria can inhabit the new filter. If you can avoid replacing that, just rinse/gently squeeze out the filter in old tank water when you do clean the tank to keep from murdering the bacteria
   
7. Letting the filter dry out will also kill a cycle.
   
8. 
   
   *NOTE: Most bottles of beneficial bacteria say they cycle a tank in a day. Cycling can take up to a month in some cases but usually just two weeks if you keep on it. This requires constantly monitoring, testing and replacing most of the water in the tank when you get high ammonia/nitrite levels. You need ammonia/nitrite to be 0 and nitrate to be more than 0. Definitely less <40. If all your levels are higher than this, or if nitrate remains 0, your tank isn't cycled.***
   
   
   Summery;
   So basically, cycling builds beneficial bacteria which makes these waste breakdown chemicals go through a cycle of breaking down into a less dangerous form which keeps fish/axolotl from getting sick/dying. ... Most new fish people don't do this. And fish store employees try & tell them just adding something like seachem stability fixes this. It doesn't. An uncycled tank is basically new tank syndrome and it kills animals.
   
   You still are going to need to keep an eye on chemical levels after the cycle..Occasionally different things can cause the cycle to "crash", like changing the filters or a high tempeture, or the filters becoming dry..
   
   Once your tank is cycled, and you have an axolotl, honestly it's not that much work. The cycles the worst part. I feed my adult axolotls once every other day, I change 75% of their water twice a month, and add water to top it off / spot clean occasionally two-three other times a month due to the water I lose due to evaporation.
   
   
   Stuff you'll need:
   
9. Air stone+ airline+ air pump ( cheap ones are at Walmart.
   
10. Seachem stability ( beneficial bacteria)
    
11. Seachem prime ( it's a water conditioner I just prefer seachem)
    
12. A tank, 10 gallon minimum for 1 axolotl. But the bigger the better.
    
13. A filter
    
14. Hides for the axolotl
    
15. A syphon / water vacuum ( to suck out the poo/change water easy. I have a long food grade plastic hose I got from Ace hardware. I syphon and let it drain into the yard
    
16. A bucket
    
17. A Tupperware
    
18. A fan. Literally any fan you can put on top the tank and point at it will work. I have a table fan sitting on top my tank and blowing at the water to help keep it cool. A chiller is best, but they are expensive.
    
19. A tank thermometer ( don't get the thermometer strips, they lie
    
20. A master fresh water test kit.
    
21. Worms or repashy or pellets
    
    
    
    Links:
    
22. Test kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000255NCI/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549784772&sr=8-2&keywords=master+freshwater+test+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=51FQhbpfB0L&ref=plSrch
    
    
    
23. Fan suggestion
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001R1RXUG?aaxitk=NqgMhM9.r7.gAHICKezCoA&pd_rd_i=B001R1RXUG&pf_rd_p=0ef604ef-c787-43e9-9404-52a4ff25a95c&hsa_cr_id=8386596470601&sb-ci-n=asinImage&sb-ci-v=https%3A%2F%2Fimages-na.ssl-images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F71pMktGGyRL.jpg&sb-ci-a=B001R1RXUG
    
    
24. Tank thermometer
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002AQITK/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549784880&sr=8-5&keywords=tank+thermometer
    
    4.
    Air pump + line + stone.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073DWVX5P/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1549784937&sr=8-11&keywords=air+pump+for+aquarium&dpPl=1&dpID=41%2BcSpzfDgL&ref=plSrch
    
    
25. Filter ( basic the tank you have probably already has one)
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000260FUM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785038&sr=8-2&keywords=hob+filter&dpPl=1&dpID=41Rr1kpTVOL&ref=plSrch
    
    
26. Shower poof ( hang these so they slow the flow of water coming out of filter. Axolotls don't like a lot of heavy water flow. Get these at the dollar store and rinse them before going in tank. You don't have to get these online. I'm just showing you)
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01F88BMC8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785094&sr=8-3&keywords=shower+pouf
    
    
27. Seachem stuff
    Prime; https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00025694O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785181&sr=8-1&keywords=seachem+prime&dpPl=1&dpID=41Q0rRc8NML&ref=plSrch
    
    Stablity:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002APIIW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785210&sr=8-1&keywords=seachem+stability
    
    
28. Food
    Pellets:
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0787T25J1/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785278&sr=8-1&keywords=axolotl+pellets
    
    Repashy:
    https://www.chewy.com/repashy-superfoods-meat-pie-gel/dp/166289?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=f&utm_content=Repashy%20Superfoods&utm_term=&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkfriBRD1ARIsAASKsQLQAXpk3WwGiCwRMr6OQmbfUXPIZutYnADrujltXxW1PPSVgYpPduEaAmAaEALw_wcB
    
    Ice cube trays for repashy( frozen is better. It's a jello. It will really trash your tank. So frozen is better):
    
    https://www.amazon.com/niceCube-Mini-Ice-Cube-Trays/dp/B01L7ZFBXW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785496&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=mini+ice+cube+tray&psc=1
    
    
    
29. Hides. Here's a good example..I soemthing similar. Just go to the reptile section at your pet store. Get one that's not rough but smooth. Plastics a good option. Just rinse it well before you put it in tank
    https://www.arcatapet.com/m/item.cfm?cat=22600&source=GA-PLA00522600&fullsite=0
    
    
30. Water vacuum. This is what I have + I have a big long hose for big water changes. I use this to spot clean poo and "vacuum' it into a 10 gallon bucket
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011DDJZ9Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785739&sr=8-1&keywords=aquarium+vacuum
    
    Feeding tongs: They're actually tweezers for planting a planted fish tank. These can grip worms very well.. The Amazon ones that are silver suck and will make your life hell. Don't waste your money on ones on amazon unless you can find these on Amazon.
    
    https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/fish/feeding-accessories/fluval-straight-forceps

Congrats on the first tank! My most successful tank was a 20 long, and honestly I think about going back very often.

If you're looking for a simple entry-level start to filtration, I would go with a simple hang-on-back filter (or HOB for short as they're called in the reefing community). You could absolutely add a small refugium/sump as mentioned here as well, which would increase your water volume and filtration ability, allowing you to get one or two more fish in the system, however as I'm sure you know it will be a bit more expensive and complicated to set up, with a few extra risks regarding any blockages in pumps.

If you're looking into the HOB option, I would recommend my personal favorite, the AquaClear filter (you can get it here https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-50-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486060633&sr=8-1&keywords=aquaclear+filter). I fill mine with the provided media (I replace the bag of carbon monthly with my own bags that I fill which are a bit cheaper), along with a small filter bag of phoslock to remove some of the phosphates on the top. Overall it's a relatively easy setup, and you can clean the sponge filter every week or two when you do water changes to get rid of any of the detritus that builds up.

Good luck with the tank!

I would highly suggest you stay away from the integrated kit approach and buy components. As someone currently trying to overcome an Eclipse system, the burdens far outweigh the benefit of integrations and ease. There's more than enough on getting adequate components here, and I would be happy to help you out with the decision, as would others.

Seeing as how you (thankfully) seem to like to take your time and do this right, I offer you some suggestions:

• Whatever tank you want. They're not going to have the greatest selection at Petsmart, but if you find something you like, get it. There's other places online that will ship the tank, but this is probably your best bet to get locally. Though the LFS isn't stocked very well, they might have a number of respectable tanks. Make this decision count-- you will be stuck with it for a long long time, and the ability for your tank to grow with your tools/abilities is crucial.
  
  
• Just pony up the money and get an Eheim Classic. For a 20G, you'll probably want to get this one. If you're getting anything larger than a desktop tank (and, BTW, that's a pretty good one), you'll need a real filter. This may seem excessive, but the dainty POS filters that come in kits ALWAYS wind up biting you in the ass. There are people here that are still using the same Eheim Classic that they purchased 15 years ago. It's a standard for a reason-- it's effective and reliable. Pay for it once and you'll never have to buy another unless you really move up in size. If you really don't want to go that expensive, the best bet is to stick with an Aquaclear filter. For the price, these things do a bang-up job!
  
  
• Just don't skimp on a heater. This will do you well, and it's not too expensive. You don't want your fish either roasting to death or accidentally freezing in the middle of winter. Hagen is a good brand to go to here.
  
  
• LED lights these days are great, and have hit a point where the ROI is seen far earlier than previously, and I'm talking about a year. When you get fluorescent tube fixtures, you use more power and have to replace the lights at least every year, and some replace them every 6mo. It depends on how much light you need, but again, I feel you need to recognize that you will grow with this tank, and buying a lighting system now that is cheaper but unable to grow plants will wind up costing you way more in the long run than just getting an LED fixture for 60% more that will last you years and require very little money after the initial purchase. For a first-time tank, I'd suggest a Marineland Singlebright if you really never envision yourself growing plants (which is half the fun in a tank these days), or a Marineland Doublebright if you'd like to grow plants and want an easy, cheaper option now. Know that those two fixtures are the lower end of the LED lighting bars, and you would do well with something like an Ecoxotic Stunner, where you can start with a fixture or two and then add on to the circuit later when you want more light for more plants. Also note the size of all of these fixtures have to be in line with the size of your tank-- there's no universal size.
  
  
• Note, also, that if your LFS sucks in the stock department, and Petco irks you as much as a lot of people here, there's many places where you can order fish and plants online. I haven't heard any horror stories with the big guys, so maybe check them out. Unfortunately, my LFS's are great, so I've never had to resort to these means. I've heard good things about aquabid, and really, you should join plantedtank.net and see what you can find either locally or on the buy/sell/trade forum. Also, joining a local aquatic org can open you up to a ton of CHEAP possibilities.
  
  Good luck. There's lot to research and plan, as well as to spend on, but getting a good setup is so rewarding and relaxing, that it pays back in spades.

I guess it all depends on what you'll be stocking. There is no such thing as over filtering but at the same time you don't want your filter to be so over sized that its going to be blowing your plants and fish around. I would suggest going with an aquaclear 50. Its rated for tanks from 20-50 gallons. Just a tad more expensive on amazon that the aquaclear 30 you linked above.

https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-50-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506557271&sr=8-3&keywords=aquaclear+filter

https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116016506-Purigen-100ml/dp/B0002A5VK2/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1483481330&sr=1-1&keywords=seachem+purigen

Purigen.

Had someone ask for an inventory list and thought I'd post it up here for visibility.

Coralife Biocube 14 - $199

Lighting System - $141

• 2x Ecoxotic Panorama Pro 16w 8000k LED modules
  
• Two-Way DC Splitter
  
• 60w 24v AC-DC power supply
  
• Current USA Single Channel Ramp Timer
  
  Filtration System - $122
  
  
• EHEIM Jager 50w Heater
  
• InTank BioCube 14 Media Basket
  
• Poly Filter Floss
  
• Seachem Purigen
  
• Seachem Matrix
  
• Seachem Filter Media Bag
  
• Hydor Flo Rotating Water Deflector
  
  Arline System - $32
  
  
• Tetra 77853 Whisper Air Pump
  
• Topfin Two-Way Metal Gang Valve
  
• Lee's Sleek Airline Tubing
  
• Jardin Suction Cup Clips
  
  Decor - $140
  
  
• Penn Plax Real-Scapes 20x12
  
• Marineland Silicone
  
• CaribSea Eco-Complete 20 lbs Black
  
• Driftwood
  
• Rocks
  
  Flora - $114
  
  
• Chilensis (Sagittaria platyphylla)
  
• Cardinal Plant (Lobelia cardinalis)
  
• Dwarf Pennywort (Hydrocotyle sibthorpiodes)
  
• Narrow Leaf Chain Sword (Echinodorus tenellus)
  
• Kleiner Bar Sword (Echinodorus barthii x Echinodorus uruguayensis hybrid)
  
• HC Cuba (Hemianthis callitrichoides 'Cuba')
  
• Crypt Parva (Cryptocoryne parva)
  
• Christmas Moss (Vesicularia montagnei)
  
• Frogbit (Limnobium laevigatum)
  
  Fauna - $46
  
  
• 30x Malaysian Trumpet Snails
  
• 16x neon tetras
  
• Male betta splendens
  
  Tools - $12
  
  
• API Algae Scraper Extra Long (Glass)
  
• Fluval Flora Stainless Steel Planting Tongs

Media is whatever you use to house bacteria in your filter.

There are many different kinds:

Sponge - cut to fit.

Filter Fiber - polishes water by capturing little particles

Matrix - porous stones

Bio Balls- plastic bacteria houses

Carbon- mainly used when you need to remove medicine from the water after treatment

Purgen - removes tannins (tea color) from water caused by wood or leaves

Everyone uses whatever they like/need/have room for.

Filter kits come with cartridges that are pre-made to fit the filter compartment. They are expensive and shouldn't be thrown away, as you may know, because then you have thrown away your bacteria. If you do decide to use cartridges, just swish them in the dirty water to remove gunk, and put them back in. Many use the cartridges in combination with the other media listed above and then they have a back-up set of media. It's up to you.

Aquarium Co-op has some good youtube videos on hacking filters, which will further help with understanding all of this if I have confused you this with explanation.

And this be the Purigen, Yarrrr.

http://www.amazon.com/Seachem-165-Purigen-100ml/dp/B0002A5VK2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376932266&sr=8-1&keywords=purigen

Alternatively, get a purigen filter insert. I had problems with sand/tannins, that cleared it up in less than a week.

These wipes for when kitty gets into minor messies


And this extra gentle wash so you can give her baffs and play!


A leash to go on walks

Oldie but goodie toy


You're going to need a tag in case kitty wanders off, and a collar of course!


Deshedding brush to control the hairs


Clippers to trim the nails

Maybe try some new toys?

I've been meaning to make a list of my cats' favorite toys. I have two cats, brother and sister, Millie and Smokey, now about 9 months old.

First, I can't explain it, but this carrot. I bought it on a whim at a pet store because it was on clearance and I thought it kind of looked like the Minecraft carrot and I thought it would be cute to see them playing with it. It comes with separate catnip container and you can fill the carrot with catnip, but I didn't use any. OMG, they go crazy for the thing. They get super possessive of it. If the other cat comes near, they'll growl and run away. Smokey likes to be chased when he has the carrot in his mouth. I lunge like I want to steak his carrot and he runs a few feet away, daring me to try to take it again. Millie will self-play with the carrot, batting it around on our hardwood floors. They've gone through two already. I think it's time to get a third.

Da Bird. It was recommended here and it's awesome. Something about the movement, the twirling, the colors, the noise. They can't ignore this thing. If the feather thing gets destroyed, replacements are available and cheap.

Cat Dancer 101. This is a stiff wire with some cardboard bits on one end. Move it and shake it a bit and I guess it looks like a flying insect. On the plus side, when they catch it, it's fairly easy to get them to release it.

Cat Dancer 301. This is Millie's favorite. She knows where I keep it and "leads" me to it at every opportunity. Like, first thing when I wake up and when I get home from work. It's a short stick with a long strip of fleece material. Wave it as you move in a circle and they're mesmerized. When they catch it, it's a bit difficult to get them to release it.

He may be a little freaked out for the first few days. Try to keep the house quiet and calm. Cats hate loud noise, such as vacuum cleaners and blow dryers. They also are skittish around new people. Don't pick him up if you don't have to.

I read that wet food is much better for losing weight than dry food. Dry food has a lot of grain it. Occasionally give him some canned tuna (in water) for humans. My cats loved it much more than cat food. And if you are having a tuna sandwich give him the water. It's the perfect soup for cats.

You might want to buy a cat tree. You don't need it from day one but most cats love them. Make sure it's at least 6 feet tall. They love being high up. Makes them feel secure. They tend to stay at the top and don't use the lower portions much at all.

I recommend this toy:

https://www.amazon.com/Cat-Dancer-301-Charmer-Interactive/dp/B0002DHV16/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Vet student and cat lover here. Undersocialized kittens, kittens separated from their mom too early, and Bengals can all make challenging pets, so I'm not surprised you're having some trouble with that combination!

It sounds like your kitten has play aggression. Basically, he's bored and under-stimulated, and his pent-up energy is being directed towards you. Here's some information about play aggression from the SF SPCA, a well-respected behavior consultant, and VCA hospitals. I hope you'll find it useful!

My cat used to be play-aggressive, and here's what's worked for me:

• Lots and lots of play. Aim for at least two sessions of 10-15 minutes per day of active play, and try to wear him out!
  
  
• Try lots of toys! Kittens will have different preferences and may get bored over time, so switch things up. I'm giving some links of toys that, in my experience, cats go crazy over. They're not affiliate links, I don't work for the companies, and you can find them in pet stores as well: Cat catcher, Cat Charmer, Da Bird, and Cat Crazies A lot of cats also go crazy for foil balls and drinking straws if you throw them around. Try to have a variety of toys- wand toys, sparkle balls, bouncy balls, big catnip toys your kitten can kick, little catnip toys he can carry around, soft toys, plastic toys- you get the idea. If your cat is an ambush hunter, he may also like if you dangle a toy at one end of a cat tunnel so he can run through and grab it.
  
  
• Try to engage in play before you see any signs of playfulness or aggression, and definitely learn to recognize those signs and act on them! I've found that while redirecting with toys is the smart thing to do, at that point, it's usually too late.
  
  
• Cat tend to have a hunt-eat-groom-sleep cycle. Try to feed twice a day at regular times, and play for a bit first. Cats like being on a schedule.
  
  
• More cat trees and build/buy cat shelves if you're able!
  
  
• Wear shoes/boots in the house if you have to. Doing this saved my ankles, and I wonder if part of the reason he attacks you more than your BF is that you react more so it's more fun for him.
  
  
• Food puzzles! Here's a site with a ton of options, including super cheap or free/recycled ones.
  
  
• Look into clicker training! Good way to keep him physically and mentally occupied.
  
  I hope this helps! I realize I've just thrown a ton of info at you, and my main suggestion is to take just a couple little ideas and start incorporating them. Maybe find one toy he loves and use it twice a day, scatter his food over his cat tree or in an ice cube tray, and try to keep yourself covered so he can't hurt you.
  
  Also, definitely take him to the vet! I agree he can probably be neutered now or soon, it's always good to take new pets to the vet, and they may have behavior advice. Best of luck!

Have more of a routine with your kitten!
Start by having a long play session(10-20minutes) with a wand toy that you only bring out during this time. Have a variety of like 2 or 3 different wand toys, my favorites are:
Da Bird - this one is great because the wand part is super long so you can sit while still making your cat cover a lot of ground! ,Cat Dancer - For the feline who likes trash like toys but seriously this thing reminds me of a moth if you move it just right, cat charmer - just a great toy very durable great for cats who just like string!

After your long play session give your cat his dinner and he should be good for the night!
Cats natural routine is to hunt, eat, groom, sleep.
If you are still having issues you could try leaving out different types of cat enrichment to keep your cat entertained through the night. HERE is an article about the importance of enriching your cat and a few ideas!

The funny thing is, you can get that shipped to your house in 3 days with Amazon Prime these days. For 18 bucks.


Edit - also, 40lbs!

Sorry I can't help you out - we're in the same boat financially - but I wanted to let you know that this stuff right here is great: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009X29WK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=36N3KEYR7492&coliid=I37BT3LL5HHPDH&psc=1

It lasts us much longer than Arm & Hammer, is better at odor blocking while being pretty much unscented itself (it doesn't have that weird cleaner-meets-citrus smell that litters like A&H have), and it's way cheaper than Arm & Hammer ($18 for a 40lb bag). If you haven't tried it before, I recommend checking it out when you get a chance (or adding it to your wishlist if you like).

Anyway, just wanted to let you know about it. We're a three cat household as well, so we're always looking for the best and most economical stuff when it comes to pet supplies.

Good luck!

Try this.

He came from a rescue. All I know is that his mother was a chihuahua mix. I’m sorry I can’t be more help!

You can get a DNA test kit on Amazon, though!

Definitely looks like there's pit bull, past that I'm not sure. She's a real cutie!

As a heads up, if you're really curious, you could get one of those DNA tests done with a swab. Wisdom Panel is a popular one, and people like to share the results over at /r/doggydna. :)

I have three 2.5 gal tanks and I would not go smaller with shrimp. I have a 1.5 gallon jarrarium but it only has Amphipods and snails. I would NOT put shrimp in anything smaller. It is extremely hard to handle temp variations especially is winter and summer. And I would not do shrimp for your first one.

I would go buy a 2.5 gallon aquarium at Petsmart. Get the glass lid at Drs Foster and Smith online, a VersaTop. And then I would get a little sponge fllter like this and/or a HOB like this, I used both. And a Cobalt Aquatics 5 watt heater. Or an Aqueon 10 watt heater. And be prepared to alternate based on how bad your winters are. But, I would not recommend it if this is your first tank.

As stated in title, Fishy is the newest member of our household.

My first instinct was to read up on bettas and in doing so, found this subreddit.

I have several doubts, such as:

• what kind of betta is this?
  
  
• Is it healthy? (Ive seen more vibrant colors on pics posted here)
  
  
• Can/Should I pair it with other fish?
  
  
• Are pellets preferred over flakes?
  
  As per suggestions on this sub, I think buying a bigger tank is my number 1 priority; im currently looking into a Tetra Tank (3 Gallons), this one is favored by my wife, as she finds its aesthetically pleasing (and I agree). However, most people suggest a 5 Gallon tank, so Im also looking into a GloFish Tank, we both dislike the blue led on this model and the black plastic lid it comes with.
  
  In any case, we're also looking to buy the following:
  
  
• heater
  
  
• Thermometer
  
  
• Silk plant
  
  
• Log/Hiding spot
  
  
• Filter * which we think we would only buy if we get the Tetra Tank, as per amazon commenters suggestions.
  
  We already have a net (for scooping), drops to dechlorinate water, aquarium salt (for cleaning) and what you see already in the tank.
  
  Please help us give this fish an awesome life!
  
  PS.: We are not in the US, if it even matters.

Azoo Mignon 60

Here you go.

AZOO Mignon Filter 60 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005VEWCMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VRM0Cb8F305VV

Looking at your original post...

The responses were valid advice, even if the tone may have been a bit condescending, but your responses were also very defensive and rude.


If you want to keep your water from being cloudy, upgrade to a tank with a filter. 1 gallon really isn't large enough for a betta, and they are tropical fish so should be in a heated tank.

You can pick up a pretty cheap kit that includes a light and filter.
Something like this looks nice, is adequately sized, and comes with a filter (although its not a GREAT filter, its certainly better than none) This little heater works well for a 3 gallon (which is what I linked earlier) and doesn't take up much room or look crappy in the tank.

A filter is not a cure all, you will still want to do partial water changes occasionally, and if youre having trouble with cloudy water, you may be over feeding. your fish's stomach is about the size of it's eye, it only needs 2-3 or those little betta pellets once a day, and if you want to keep 2 male bettas, you'll want to get something at least 5 gallons, and the divider should be something they cant see clearly though as it will stress them out. You can usually pick up a little 5 gallon glass tank at most pet stores for about $11, but you would need to get a filter, heater, etc seperately. Bettas are jumpers, so youd want to either leave about an inch unfilled at the top, or put some kind of lid on there.

This little filter works great for ~5 gallon tanks, and has adjustable flow. (bettas dont like a lot of current, so you wanna keep the flow on any filter pretty low for them)

Getting a siphon, or just a 2-3ft piece of fountain tubing (you can get it from any hardware store) makes partial water changes a million times easier as well. If you WANT to put forth the necessary effort to properly house and car for your fish, send me a PM and I may be able to help you out if you truly can't afford it. But if you TRULY don't have the time to screw with it, give them away to someone who does, and try again when your life situation is less stressful.

Definitely! The tank is a pretty standard rimless glass, which i bought from my LFS. The other parts I purchased online:

• Light - Mingdak LED Clip Aquarium Light
  
  
• Heater - Tetra 50-Watt
  
• Filter - AZOO Mignon Filter 60
  
  The substrate is pool sand, and the dark green moss is actually a marimo moss ball that i took apart and glued to the rock with superglue :)

Many filters are too strong for Bettas, including my Top Fin filter (it was gonna go in the trash anyway - it's crap). That being said, check out the link below and read the top comment. Many filters can be modified to suit your fish. Sponge filters can have extra sponge added to them to reduce suction.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005VEWCMO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I personally like the Fluval Spec V for betta. Just add a heater and it's good to go.

The Fluval Spec 5gal and Fluval Flex 9gal are great looking all-in-one's and have nice large filter areas where you can add extra media and hide the heater. Build quality is good, lights are good enough to grow plants well and they are virtually silent. I own both of these tanks and I keep shrimp in the Spec 5. You will need to slightly modify the filter intake to prevent shrimp from getting into the filter area, I just cover the intake by gluing a square of black foam over it, it's barely noticeable and it works.

If a fish is inactive, it usually means they don't have enough room to swim around and explore. 5 gallons is beautiful for a betta, you should do a 5 gallon with live plants, it's beautiful to look at! If you're concerned about price as well, here are some good options:

• Petco has 5 gallon Aqueon tanks for sale for ~$16 dollars.
  
• A good filter to use for these would be the Aqueon Quietflow Internal Filter AT10. I use one of these in a 1.5 gallon hospital tank, but the gph is good for up to 5 gallons. And it's only $15!
  
• You can use anything for a tank lid, but if cost is an issue, these guys work great, ~$7.
  
• A good, inexpensive heater is the Hydor 25 watt heater. ~15 bucks and from what I've heard (I'm getting one tomorrow for my new Spec V so I'll update if anything goes wrong) it's amazing.
  
• You can use any substrate that supports plant life, but I personally use Eco-Complete Plant Substrate. It's around $20 for a 20 lb. bag, so it's a pretty good deal as well.
  
• Plants in general can be quite inexpensive. If you just buy a couple of Anubias (the large variety) and some java ferns, maybe some Anacharis to float or bunch, you're looking at ~$34 dollars (give or take) for the entirety of your tank's plants.
  
  All in all, you're looking at ~$107 for a better tank for your fish, or ~$53 for just the basic set up (minus the live plants/plant supporting substrate). If you want lighting, I've heard that basic desk lamps like this one work great in lieu of expensive LED setups.
  
  OR
  
  You can buy a Fluval Spec V, they're on sale for $59.99 and come with a filter, lighting, lid, etc. All you would need is substrate and a heater.
  
  Let me know if you have any questions!

Given what you're already adding for fertilizer, your limiting factor is very likely CO2. No point in increasing ferts without increasing carbon, you'll probably just get a bunch of algae that'll take advantage of the excess nutrients your plants aren't using; plants only grow as much as their limiting factor allows.

You can actually set up a DIY CO2 system for relatively cheap. You can get a kit for about 13 bucks, you'll just need to supply sugar, yeast, and some bottles (none of the above being that costly, and you can find them at your local store). Excel can only take you so far.

https://www.amazon.com/DIY-CO2-Aquarium-Plant-System/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483941512&sr=8-1&keywords=diy+co2

I don't think you have enough plants to warrant CO2, but a DIY CO2 is pretty easy to setup.

So I got baking soda (got it from local grocers), and got citric acid, locally couldn't find it, so I bought it online: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EYFKNL8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Got this system: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CUZJF6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fish-Tank-Aquarium-CO2-Diffuser-Check-Valve-U-Shape-Glass-Tube-Suction-Cup-Kit/282701446441?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Cheaply made, very happy with it so far.

Yeah, increase his exercise, and start incorporating more mentally stimulating activities. Ditch a food bowl and start feeding him out of puzzle toys or through training. Get a flirt pole and also add some impulse control training into that (teach a drop it, get it, etc. and use it while playing with the flirt pole).

> she won't take treats outside or when she is scared so I don't know how to make it work?

If she won't take treats, it means she's already too afraid for counter conditioning. If you open the door so she can just see outside, but remain inside, does she react this way? Maybe you could start there first.

Also, if you're struggling with exercise you might have better luck with a flirt pole. If you can take her somewhere secluded and just keep her on a harness and longline, you could play that for ~15-30 minutes. Even high energy dogs tend to get worn down pretty fast because of the fast paced chasing and turning.

Also, you say she's pretty smart. How often is she getting training sessions every day? Do you give her puzzle toys? Mental stimulation can really reduce a dog's energy.

Engage them outdoors. Even check out a Flirt Pole!

They require more stimulation.

Sometimes you can also productively offer them an outlet to that energy that digging burns. For us, we take our dog to the beach where he can go dig into the sand until his heart desires. That's stopped him from digging out the backyard.

A puppy's first fear period is 8-11 weeks. Welcome to your dog's second fear period. It could pass quickly or it could last until he's a year or 14 months.

The first thing to remember is not to push him. You are correct for not dragging or carrying him. It's important that he learn coping strategies. For the next week or so while you teach him the basics of coping with fear, is there a "safe" area you can exercise him without pushing him past threshold? Do you have a yard you could use to exercise him with a flirt pole?

What you need to do is teach him how to be brave. The two best things you can do are to (a) teach him to touch stationary objects with his nose, and (b) teach him the engage-disengage game.

(A) At home, teach him how to touch objects with his nose on command. Here is a little bit about teaching a nose-palm touch, which is very useful. I extended this skill further and taught my perpetually worried pup to walk up to objects I point to and touch them with his nose. I taught him using basically the same technique as you'd use to teach a hand target behavior.

Start with non-scary objects, and move your way up to things that might be a little scarier inside (a newly opened umbrella gets a lot of dogs).

Then start practicing this in your yard, first with safe objects and then with scarier things. Then move to a walk 100' past your house on either side. Pick random objects to ask him to touch his nose to, and lavish food and praise when he touches them.

(B) Teach him the engage-disengage game. It's a "game" that will teach him to look to you for guidance when he is frightened. When he looks to you, stand confidently and offer him praise and food.

You should see pretty fast progress once he starts figuring out the game. Just make sure not to push him too hard - if he's struggling, always remember to make what you're doing easier and/or less scary.

I know the feeling about walk lengths. I live in WA and we have been having basically flood weather this whole fall/winter and its hard to want to do the full walk with my dogs when it is monsooning every morning. I actually still need to get a rain jacket for one of the dogs because he has a soft coat and doesn't repel water like it should. But doing some morning training sessions will help out a lot.

Also have I told you about the amazing flirt pole?? It is my shibas favorite toy. It exhausts her and is a lifesaver in crappy weather.

You can easily make one, but I'm lazy. SquishyFace makes a really good one.

I bought this exact flirt pole for my dog recently and I highly recommend it. It's sturdy enough for my 60 pound mutt so I'm sure it'd be fine for you.

We've had customizable LED lights like this one in the aquarium hobby for years. Their entire job is to simulate natural light as best as possible. The one I linked specifically can mimic lighting from throughout the whole day. Would something like this be able to be jerry-rigged to work for photography?

Finnex makes a 30" light.
Amazon Link

Edit: It does come with little legs, but the light could be used without the legs.

Stumbled upon some new info on these lights.
A new video preview was posted on Finnex's FB page:
http://youtu.be/UJsYweqNtig
AND Amazon has these listed as pre-sales with a release date of May 15th!
http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00U0HMWLI

We did this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EHX2BH0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8.bxDb0MC3T2Q with our rescue puppy and found out he was 50% gsd, 25% staffy, and 25% mixed terrier breeds. We were able to use that information with training. Hope this helps!

Could be lots of things, though my first guess would be a beagle shepherd or hound shepherd of some kind. You can get a Wisdom Panel done though to find out for sure. They're on sale this week for around $50.

We used this:

Mars Veterinary Wisdom Panel 3.0 Breed Identification DNA Test Kit

I use this litter and don't have issue with odor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009X29WK/

I had this issue as well when I first got it. I had to change litters. Now I use Dr. Elsey's Premium Clumping Litter, and I've also had success with Cat's Pride.

Along with what everyone else has said, I would recommend this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9YHFS/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_s_awd_d_YawFxb1PW070M

It's a stuffed animal that has a fake heart inside which vibrates like a heart beat. My puppy loved this! It gave her a little "friend" to snuggle with in her crate. It even comes with a hand warmer you can shove inside too, to simulate a warm puppy to snuggle with. That and treats, a toy, anything to make it a happy place! Try to feed meals in the crate too. Start with the door open, as the pup goes inside further and is more comfortable you can shut the door and let him out when he's finished eating.

8 weeks is very young, so being separated completely from the litter can be very trying for a pup. They make plushes that have a "heartbeat" (simulated w/ a battery-operated pack) that may ease that kind of anxiety: https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Pet-Love-Snuggle-Behavioral/dp/B000C9YHFS

I personally have not used it and I think YMMV, but it may be worth checking out.

I agree with that- and it may sound a little 'over the top' but they make [[https://www.amazon.com/SmartPetLove-Snuggle-Puppy-Behavioral-Brown/dp/B000C9YHFS\]](https://www.amazon.com/SmartPetLove-Snuggle-Puppy-Behavioral-Brown/dp/B000C9YHFS](https://www.amazon.com/SmartPetLove-Snuggle-Puppy-Behavioral-Brown/dp/B000C9YHFS)">stuffed) stuffed animals (dogs) that have a 'heart beat'. When I worked at a shelter, we used these when puppies were brought in alone or had to be separated. Could be a good idea to purchase one and set up for the puppy when you need to leave (showering, going to work, etc.).

I would also add a shirt that smells like you to the crate, and a heartbeat dog toy like this one http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Pet-Love-Snuggle-Behavioral/dp/B000C9YHFS/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1449847346&sr=1-1&keywords=heartbeat+dog+toy

He is used to sleeping in a warm pile of other puppies, and misses it.

That might be the problem. You're with her all day every day and then leaving her completely alone at night time. It sounds like you aren't able to set her up in your room with you, it might be worth trying heart beat stuffies (Puppy Snuggle Behaviour Aid) or to make a similar set up yourself using a ticking wall clock and setting a blanket and stuffy over so it simulates the steady heart beat.

I would suggest that you definitely keep up the crate training. Are you putting treats in his crate when he goes in? Sometimes it's best to associate the crate with these types of positive reinforcements so he is more inclined to think the crate is a great place. If he has separation anxiety, I heard this heartbeat toy works quite well for young puppies.

My other suggestion is, the meantime, while you are crate training him, why don't you get one of these playpens if you have to leave him in the kitchen. That way he is at least away from the walls and in an enclosed space. If he starts to chew the playpen, you could spray it with this bitter spray which really helped my dog when he was teething.

Good luck!!

This literally saved us our first week. Now our puppy doesn't need the heartbeat but still LOVES to snuggle up to it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C9YHFS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=automatic+cat+feeder

some are better than others for portion size control & ease of timer programming

I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-5-Meal-Automatic-Pet-Feeder/dp/B000GEWHNS/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462122045&sr=1-2&keywords=automatic+cat+feeder

I use this automatic feeder. It’s the best price (used to be cheaper, unfortunately it’s about $10 more now than when I bought it). It’s really easy to use. The rotator can be a little loud, but I don’t notice it at all anymore.

This is the one we have:

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-5-Meal-Automatic-Dispenses-Digital/dp/B000GEWHNS/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=timed+cat+feeder&qid=1559070719&s=gateway&sr=8-7

Gets the job done

this one, specifically the 5 meal feeder NOT the 2 meal which is garbage. extremely durable and well made, no way a cat would be able to break into it.

Some cats are more vocal than others. Both of mine will yowl loudly when they find a particular toy (a fuzzy crinkle ball sets them both off, as does a catnip mouse). Usually these toys end up under a sofa for a week or two but if they find it they run around with it in their mouth yowling. If this wakes me up, I have to take the toy away and hide it so they quiet down.

If your cat is wailing for food / to be fed, then I HIGHLY recommend getting [a PetSafe cat feeder] (https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-5-Meal-Automatic-Pet-Feeder/dp/B000GEWHNS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1496432458&sr=8-6&keywords=cat+feeder). I have had one of these things for YEARS and I've rarely had to replace the D batteries. It has five 1-cup dry-food compartments that I have set to rotate at 6:15am. The cats hear it rotate and run for breakfast, leaving me alone. They know not to bother me for food.

They are grazers so I have it rotate just once per day, but you can set it up to rotate 2 or 3 times per day if you want to dole out food in smaller portions. Then you are associated with play and cuddles and the cat(s) learn not to cry to you for food. It really works!

EDIT: I should add that I sometimes give them snacks or wet food to supplement the dry, but never when they are around / crying or begging for food. They get excited when they hear the sound of the wet food dishes coming out of the cupboard, but they never pester me for it, because it isn't something that happens every day.

PetSafe Eatwell 5-Meal Automatic Pet Feeder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GEWHNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_USxMAbT37ZRWS

There are fancier ones but I like this one. The cat can’t force it to rotate and neither can the dogs. The dogs tried but all they did was leave nail marks. The dogs are 55 lbs each so it was a real attempt.

That cat sounds like he needs play and his own space.

Since you have no option but to live with this cat you could probably fix this behavioral problem yourself. Play the aggression out of him for about 10 to 15 minutes a day. (Play until he's tired.) You could use a laser pointer or something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Go-Cat-Catcher-Teaser-Mouse/dp/B000LPOUNW. (It should go without saying don't use your hands and teach the cat that hands are toys.)

If you can afford it, get some cat furniture near a window. (Or just make a space for him on a shelf near a window.)

Reinforce good things and good vibes whenever he's near you. Carry treats and give them to him. (Don't use your hands at first unless he's played out.) Slowly work up to petting him.

If there are other cats then it could also be anxiety about those cats. In that instance all of these things apply but the importance of establishing a safe territory (either with or without the other cats) becomes important.

LOL, here's the toy that we bought him. The mouse is about 2 inches long. Yeah, he detached the mouse from the fishing line (which is made of metal). He's swallowed other stuff in the past, like hair-ties, zipties, and plastic, but has pooped it out. This time, it was causing him to vomit so we figured a trip to the vet would be in order.

You're in Pennsylvania, too? Hi! We're in the EDT zone. :-P get your zoo on gurl

This cat toy is $6.99 with free shipping (through Amazon Marketplace) or this catnip for $4.99 as an add-on item ($5.99 with free shipping through Amazon Marketplace). If that doesn't work, I do have Pet Sematary on my WL...

I agree with the other posters who advise you to be patient and let her adjust to this big transition before you worry too much. When I moved recently, my cat was so shook up about it that he hid for three or four days and had no interest in even his favorite toy.

One thing you can do is cat-ify (to steal words from Jackson Galaxy) her environment so that she has lots of options to "own" her new space. Perches, cat trees, scratchers, etc. Access to a window where she can watch outside. Don't be too worried if she doesn't use something right away. Simply having plenty of spaces where she is free to be a cat should help her start to feel at home.

Wait for her to "ask" you to play when she's ready. What I mean is: as she grows more confident in your home, she'll start taking an interest in play. She may find your phone cord and start batting it around. Or seem very intrigued with the birds outside the window. Or you'll be petting her and she'll start trying to bite your hands like a toy. Whatever it is, one day you'll see that kitty instinct come out in some way.

When you see it, that's a good time to try to engage her with a toy. She'll be less likely to be fearful of it because she'll be in her hunting mode. It can also help you determine which kind of play she prefers: some cats love the chase, some cats love batting a toy, some cats love to hide and watch a toy move before pouncing..etc. One of my cats absolutely loves to chase toys around as I wave them while the other seems to prefer observe-pounce-run away-repeat.

Finally, as far as treats... don't worry so much. First of all, she may just not be into treats because she's adjusting and (kind of like a human) has other things occupying her attention. But I have found many cats that just aren't as food motivated as others. It seems some cats live to eat and others eat to live. There is nothing wrong with her if she's just not that excited by snacks.

I hope this helps and reassures you that you're doing a great job and she'll grow in confidence over the next few weeks and you'll see her personality start to come out more. As an owner of a treat-picky cat, I have had huge success with these treats. For toys, I haven't met a cat yet who doesn't end up loving [this thing.] (https://www.amazon.com/Go-Cat-Catcher-Teaser-Mouse/dp/B000LPOUNW/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1527026128&sr=1-5&keywords=cat+wand)

Good luck and congratulations on the new kitty!

I use this one in my 2.5g. Works well, small size, sucks up no shrimplets.

Any 2-5 gal AIO, where to top could be removed, would work, only you might need to upgrade light and flow, and make custom filtration media.

Reflex 15 and alike have too narrow back chambers, difficult to clean, not much space for custom media, no space for heater, and light holder can't be removed.

They usually cost around $100 or more, heater is not included, and many things should be replaced.

Low cost are glass bowls, if you can find them, how final result looks like see in the links here.

Hardware is limited to air pump, air tubing, heater and lid. If need less noise, smallest water pump. Tom internal filter for me, with rain bar and filter media cage removed, 45 gph.

Maintenance tools to hose, container and NanoMag (or DIY).

I know Indian Almond Leaves and weekly water changes is the cure. But I don’t know where he cut himself. I’m thinking maybe it’s the new filter I just put in there (Koller Products TOM Aquarium Internal Power Filter (45 GPH Flow Rate) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00176GKM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_I8jKDb4E065GH). I just don’t know HOW he could cut himself on it. 🤔

The only other things I have in the tank are: driftwood (with no sharp edges), hairgrass (spikerush) and Amazon Compacta’s.

I guess I should try sponge filters again... But the one I had before didn’t really clean the tank and they make others, but they’re huge. Or too loud. My tank is 5 gallons, 9.6 in L x 9.8 in W x 15.3 in H and it’s just Semper with an otto.

Any recommendations on small sponge filters that clean well and quiet pumps?

• It's a 5 gallon (19l) all acrylic rimless tank.
  
  
• Light is a 23 watt 6500K CFL in a generic desk lamp.
  
  
• Filtration is a small in-tank power filter meant for 2-5 gallon aquariums with nothing but a sponge in it.
  
  
• Substrate is old, re-used CaribSea Eco-Complete
  
  
• I'm not using CO2 or organic carbon supplements.
  
  
• Fertilization is periodic additions of MaxiCrop water soluble seaweed extract and Iron DTPA.
  
  
• Water change regiment is 50% weekly, but I don't use fresh water, I take 2.5 gallons out and put it in my 120 gallon (454l) heavily planted system, and take 2.5 gallons from that system and put it in the little 5 gallon. This is also how fertilizers are added (I fertilize the big system only, the little system gets ferts indirectly through water exchanges). The big system gets periodic water changes with fresh water.
  
  
  
• Water Parameters:
  
  
• Temperature: 78F(25.5C)
  
  
• pH: 7.0
  
  
• TDS: ~200 mg/l
  
  
• I don't measure hardness, but my tap water is extremely hard (TDS is somewhere around 450 and pH is like 8.5 after reaching equilibrium with atmospheric gases).
  
  
• I mix the tap water 50/50 with R.O. , add some vitamin C to dechlorinate, and add a couple ml of muriatic acid (diluted HCl) for every 10 gallons (38l) of total water (half tap, half R.O) and let the batch of water sit with aeration for at least 1 day before using it.
  
  As for Stocking:
  
  
• Some kind of Anubias
  
  
• Some tall grassy plant. Maybe some kind of Val? I don't know many aquatic plants.
  
  
• Water lettuce floating on surface.
  
  
• Some unknown kind of snails that seem similar to standard pond snails, but have transparent, lightly spotted shells. You can see through the shell completely and see the air bubble the snails use to regulate their buoyancy.
  
  
• No fish or shrimp right now. I'm planning on adding shrimp eventually, I haven't settled on any kind of fish but am open to stocking suggestions. So far I haven't been able to convince myself 5 gallons is enough for anything other than a betta.
  
  
  
  -----------------
  
  Edit: The title says "new", but this has been running for about 2 months since I put the driftwood in and started adding crushed food for cycling. I've been tweaking it over those 2 months. I added the plants in about a month ago, and upgraded the light to a CFL from a halogen about 2 weeks ago. The plants have all rooted and are now growing rapidly (rapidly for low light, low tech anyway). The snail population grew from an un-seen egg cluster to about 15 adult snails, and has stabilized around there. I don't feed very much, just a tiny pinch of new-life spectrum small fish pellets that I've crushed up into a powder every couple of days.

You're probably not going to find real quantifiable data like that because there are so many factors including growth media and I'm not sure it scales up and down linearly.

I have:

• a 10 gallon tank; with two goldfish; a water jet; airstones; automated feeders; and an eheim filter- supporting two house plants
  Imgur (left side)
  
  
• another 4l0L (10 gallon) with two or three yoyo loaches (rescued); a panda catfish; and an algae eater- that supports a large windowsill planter of growth media holding mint/shisou/thai basil and has a eheim filter for extra biomass and 2 water jets; airstones in the tank and biomass area; and an automated feeder
  Imgur (middle)
  
  
• Finally an outside setup with 150 gallon tub with 5 goldfish (rescued) that runs through PVC pipe with about 10 net baskets with heads of lettuce and an automated koi-pond outdoor feeder.
  imgur
  
  These are all stable systems that have lasted about two years a piece
  
  ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Issues of any cruelty aside- this is fine as a starter/intro and you'll find that you'll likely want to upgrade as things work out- mostly because small systems are a lot harder to take care of.
  
  The thing with goldfish is that they put out a lot of ammonia (so in a small tank ammonia poisoning might be a thing) and the size of the container tends to cap their growth. But I wouldn't sweat the fish thing too much because a few of them might die due to the tank being new (although goldfish are extremely hearty) sketchy source: http://www.firsttankguide.net/newtanksyndrome.php
  
  It's hard to tell you straight away about how many fish etc because this aquarium system looks fresh and not yet cycled- ie. your aquarium probably doesn't have it's fill of microscopic plant life living in it and in the growth bed material you are using. Be aware you'll likely need to treat the new water you add into the tank. (chlorine remover etc) and that adding new water will have a relatively large effect on your tank due to it being compact. sketchy source: http://nippyfish.net/2009/05/27/cycling-a-small-aquarium/
  
  This means that you'll need to watch the amount of food you feed your fish carefully.
  
  100 grams of fish food will generally support about one square meter of plant life.
  sketchy source: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/aquaponics-knowing-the-fish-to-plant-ratio
  
  The great thing about what you are doing (cycling, establishing your grow bed as a bio filter) is that if you start a new tank, you'll be able to use this water and material to start out a larger tank faster (largely what you did by getting some of their gravel).
  
  --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Nice tips/ways to scale up or automate things to make your life easier:
  
  
• Petco often has dollar-per-gallon sales and there's usually tons of tanks on craigslist etc if/when you decide to scale up.
  
  
• Automatic feeders make the process less hands on:
  ie. http://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Fish-Feeder-AquaChef-Batteries/dp/B004249KFG
  
  
• A water pump to run the fish water through the growth media might do your tank very well and are quite cheap, this one is 8usd: http://www.amazon.com/Patuoxun-Submersible-Aquarium-Fountain-Hydroponic/dp/B00EU74MJY/
  
  
• Additional biomass:
  
  
• This filter (15usd) might add a little additional biomass, which makes your aquarium a little larger and helps breakdown the ammonia etc: http://www.amazon.com/TM1250-Aquarium-Internal-Power-Filter/dp/B00176GKM8/
  
  or
  
  
• (25usd) http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Rapids-Canister-hang---tank/dp/B000YJ0M1E/
  
  
• Again waterflow (helps with algae) then something like this is about 9 usd: http://www.amazon.com/Submersible-Circulation-Maker-Water-Aquarium/dp/B009YEEW2K/
  
  Note: most of these links are sketchy- just conveying ideas in an easy to read/digestible format.
  
  

> http://imgur.com/gQ9Fory

Thank you sooo much! Please let me know. I am actually quite new to aquariums. The tank has been cycled for new fish. The fake plans are approved for betta, I even did the "pantyhose" test with the plants and logs. As for algae, I don't think it is, It's a live plant, and I'll go see. I usually have the light on for at least an hour. As for the bamboo....I am sad it has to go... The filter is located behind the tank, you can see a bit of it over the left side, it's black and it's this filter.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00176GKM8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Please. Educate me. By the way, anything on custom made decors? Perhaps a sealant for toys? I know some paint on toys are super dangerous so I haven't added any.

I got this jar from Amazon. They have larger 2 gallon jars if you're willing to pay $10 more.


As for the filter/heater, I had this small filter and heater. You can attach them to the side of the jar.


However, you don't really need any of those if you're just putting few shrimps and snails. If you pack it with java moss, it should sustain by itself.

MidWest Critter Nation Single Level, two level optional depending on budget.

• http://smile.amazon.com/MidWest-Critter-Nation-Animal-Habitat/dp/B001NJ0DAY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462676314&sr=8-1&keywords=midwest+critter+nation
  
  Space Pod
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/Lixit-Critter-Space-Pod-Large/dp/B002X2NBNQ/ref=pd_sim_199_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=514yBZHbQ1L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=09NQ6RB0F97DR3FYWSP7
  
  Oxbow Regal Rat food
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/Oxbow-Regal-Rat-Food-3-Pound/dp/B000GABM1K/ref=pd_sim_199_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=51DFDAhgD3L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR113%2C160_&refRID=09NQ6RB0F97DR3FYWSP7
  
  Water bottles
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/LIXIT-Proof-Glass-Water-Bottle/dp/B0002QI5WM/ref=pd_sim_199_7?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Wb3MLRcfL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR135%2C160_&refRID=09NQ6RB0F97DR3FYWSP7
  
  
  Litter box
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/Ware-Plastic-Lock-N-Litter-Small-Colors/dp/B000HG96EI/ref=pd_sim_199_21?ie=UTF8&dpID=517FLhZC5FL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=09NQ6RB0F97DR3FYWSP7
  
  Hammock
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/ProSelectA-Polka-Dot-Cage-Hammocks/dp/B005N11YLK/ref=pd_sim_199_16?ie=UTF8&dpID=51lb4SYKutL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=09NQ6RB0F97DR3FYWSP7
  
  Food bowl
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/Kaytee-Stoneware-Hamster-Bowl-Inch/dp/B0040B9NOY/ref=sr_1_11?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462676611&sr=1-11&keywords=food+dish

This would be a much more suitable cage for three rats as it's made of metal but the base is easy to remove for cleaning as is the shelf. http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Critter-Nation-Animal-Habitat/dp/B001NJ0DAY It's actually the cage I have for my 3 boys and they enjoy it. Eventually I'd recommend maybe expanding it to include the top cage as well so they have even more room to move around if possible. Also, the bonus of this cage is that there is a shelf below it where you can store things. Just make sure that you aren't storing food down there because they will eat it. My husband also made a little ramp out of a piece of wood he covered in felt so that when we let our boys out they can come and go out of their cage as they please. Also, we use felt rather than fluff for their cage (mainly because one of our rats is allergic to most fluff) because it's so much easier to change. We change the felt and do a full wipe down of the cage with soap and water/disinfecting wipes every 3 or 4 weeks but with cleaning up/picking up poops/emptying their poop pan every couple of days. We use a shallow and small brownie pan for a poop pan and stick it to the floor with magnets. That way it's easy for us to remove but they can't push it around or flip it over.


You can get a bowl and water bottle at petco. They're not expensive. Make sure that you get food blocks for them rather than a food mix. With a food mix they can pick and choose what they want to eat (such as just the seeds) whereas with food blocks they will get complete nutrition in one place. We keep the food blocks in our freezer to avoid any tiny bugs that may come join the bag (which happened in the past when we ordered a large 50 lb bag and kept it in a plastic container...big waste of money).


Most rats will not use that flying saucer. Also, they can be dangerous and ratties can hurt themselves on them. I would not recommend getting one.


If they fight I would just let them be unless they're really getting loud and squeaking a whole lot. Then break it up. Usually a "hey!" is enough to get them to stop. But if not then you can always poke them with your finger. Not hard. Just enough to take their attention off of each other. Fighting isn't always a bad thing. Sometimes ratties just do it for fun and it's more like wrestling even though it might look like fighting. It's also a way to establish pecking order/the alpha role.


You don't need to give them specific vitamins but there are several foods that you should never give to rats. There's actually quite a long list so make sure that you google it or use the links at the side of this subreddit. They will help you learn what is okay and what's not okay for them to eat. They will get all of their vitamins in the food blocks but rats do get bored easily so you need to make sure that you supplement with veggies and fruit. Also, yogies (yogurt drops) are a wonderful treat for rats. They LOVE them. You can find them at petco next to the rat food.


You should let them out daily or at the very least every couple of days to explore and run around. We let our rats out for a few hours a day. But please make sure that you have a specific area for them to explore and that there isn't anything around that can hurt them or that they can get into that they shouldn't. We like to let our rats run around our living room. We block off our kitchen door and our hallway door and let them run around and explore. Rats love to chew so try to keep an eye on them. Chewing is a natural thing though. They do it to keep their teeth at the right length. A good way to combat chewing is by making sure that they have enough toys and things to play with in and outside of their cage. That link to that little toy you put up is a great and fun thing for rats! They will destroy it in no time at all but they will immensely enjoy it. See the links at the side for more toy ideas or google some.


Rats do need bathes every now and again. It can be difficult though as most hate water. If you want to introduce your rats to water then use lukewarm water in your bathtub and put just enough in that part of the floor is covered but that there's still a dry area for them to go if they hate it. They may try to climb up your arms and claw the shit out of you like mine do and they may poop a bunch but don't be alarmed. Those are fear poops. Just scoop them out and continue on. Use just a dab of animal safe shampoo and wash them. Do not get their heads super wet. I usually just avoid their heads all together. It's going to be difficult to wash them if they hate the water but sometimes a full bath is really needed. Other times you can just use a warm, wet washcloth and wipe them down. If they hated the bath tub then there's a good chance they will hate the wet washcloth as well. We bathe our boys when they start to smell or just if it's been a while. So probably every 2-3 months. They are really not fans of water so we try to only bath tub bathe them if a wet washcloth won't do the trick. Just make sure that you have a fluffy dry towel to wrap them in once they are done so they can be nice and warm!


If you need any other advice please feel free to ask. Just make sure that you check out those links to the side and really really study up about how to properly care for a rat. Rats are amazing little creatures and are such fun pets but like any pet they do require care and love. So get as familiar as you can with proper care before you bring them home.

Hahaha! I have this cage, the Critter Nation Double Unit, and I leave the left hand side top and bottom open whenever I am in their room. They do this! Nothing like seeing 6 little rat noses trying to get your attention!

Some cat food. My cat eats grain-free, and a change will upset his little cat stomach an awful lot. But a recent unexpected bill has made it so hard to buy some, and I don't want him to ever go hungry. I'm portioning it out as best I can now, but it won't last long.

I'm almost out of cat litter even more than I am out of food, though. Either one, really. I'm Turking as fast as I can. God, I don't deserve to be a cat mom.

I have a recommendation from a vet-student of mine: Purina Pro-Plan. It encompasses extremely high-quality ingredients, affordable prices and various flavors/specialty blends. The dry food or wet variant are both excellent for your kitty, but the dry food will be cheaper. I would use the wet food if the kitty doesn't adhere well to drinking water as the wet-food contains high amounts of water. If you have any other questions please don't hesitate to ask. Congratulations on becoming a kitty owner!

Here are my recommendations on supplies:

Litter box: http://www.amazon.com/Catit-Jumbo-Hooded-Cat-Litter/dp/B003RQVGKC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376458653&sr=8-2&keywords=litter+box

Litter scooper: http://www.amazon.com/Duranimals-DuraScoop-Litter-Scoop-colors/dp/B001DCAAP4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376458674&sr=8-1&keywords=litter+scooper

Litter: http://www.amazon.com/Precious-Cat-Premium-Clumping-Litter/dp/B0009X29WK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376458691&sr=8-1&keywords=cat+litter (cheaper if you buy this one at PetSmart believe it or not)

Kitten food: http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Plan-Chicken-Formula-7-Pound/dp/B003R0LLXU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376458746&sr=8-1&keywords=purina+pro+plan+kitten

Litter mat: http://www.amazon.com/PetFusion-SmartGrip-Litter-Gray-Twist/dp/B007SQFRMU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376458842&sr=8-1&keywords=litter+box+mat

This Precious Cat Ultra Premium Clumping Cat Litter plus this Zero Odor keeps my two cat household odor free.

You should try using Precious Cat Litter. It's unscented, clumps well, and is highly effective at controlling odor. I have two cats and it's the only brand I will buy.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009X29WK

On amazon.com it's 13$ for 40 pounds (so 18kg, so 4 box I was talking about) : https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009X29WK/

Bambi used a covered litter box for a couple months but I recently took it off because I felt it would be quicker to clean. I have no problem with odor and I live in a 520 Sq. Ft. 1 bedroom apartment and her litter box is right outside my bedroom. It may be easier to just try to control the odor instead of getting him used to the covered box.

I use Precious Cat Ultra Premium Clumping Cat Litter and will sprinkle in ARM & HAMMER® Cat Litter Deodorizer Powder when I first replace her litter. Good luck.

Just an FYI - this comment was auto-removed because referral links aren't allowed. If you want to post something from amazon, it needs to be chopped down to just the item number, like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000C9YHFS/

Look into getting a stuffed animal with a heartbeat to put alongside them in their crate, such as this:

https://www.amazon.com/SmartPetLove-Snuggle-Puppy-Behavioral-Brown/dp/B000C9YHFS/ref=sr_1_3?crid=POEPM14MF4GV&keywords=puppy+heartbeat+stuffed+animal&qid=1565801743&s=gateway&sprefix=puppy+heart%2Caps%2C158&sr=8-3

Maybe try a Snuggle Puppy? It really helped our pup during her first week home. She would fall asleep right on top of the snuggle pup, comforted (I assume) by the simulated heartbeat and source of warmth.

My 8 week old Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever (closely related to Goldens) was not a fan of the crate at all. We'd put her in there, even if she was tired, and she'd start whining up to a half hour.

I read about the Snuggle Puppy and the reviews on Amazon seemed too good to be true, but I wanted her to have an easier time and $30 seemed worth a shot. So, we got her this and honestly, it helps so much. The newer model comes with a heart that has an 8 hour setting, a continuous setting (runs until battery dies) and off.

So, what we do now is throw in some Freeze Dried Beef Liver Treats (the Ferrari of dog treats) in her Kong, top it off with some peanut butter and put that in the crate with her Snuggle Puppy. She'll go in there, work on her Kong and lay down. Once she lays down we cover the front of her cage with a blanket or towel to reduce some of the light and she goes to sleep with nary a whimper. It's been working day or night. It definitely comforts her. I highly recommend it.

• xpen/baby gates
  
  
• mushers secret
  
  
• comb/brush/demat comb depending on the breed
  
  
• puppy shampoo + conditioner
  
  
• poop bags and dispenser
  
  
• paper towels
  
  
• an extra crate bed for when one gets dirty
  
  
• blankets to cover the crate
  
  
• If your pup is nervous the first couple nights Snuggle Puppy Heartbeat toy
  
  
• bitter apple spray
  
  
• child outlet plug protectors + stuff to protect your cords (like tubing)
  
  
• outside coat if it's cold
  
  
• nail clippers (we initially bought a dremel, but the pliers style works much better for us)
  
  
• dog tooth brush and toothpaste
  
  
• crash tested crate or harness
  
  
• pet insurance
  
  
• chew toys like bully sticks/Honest Kitchen Beams/pig ears/antlers
  
  
• pee cleaner (Anti Icky Poo works better than Nature's Miracle, IMO)
  
  
• ID tag
  
  
• Flea/worms/tick meds --> talk to you vet about these

I’m sorry I don’t have advice but that is so sweet! I just found this thing and thought it was so cute! Maybe she would like it!

SmartPetLove Snuggle Puppy Behavioral Aid Toy, Brown Mutt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9YHFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2giODbGRJ7JDK

I can't offer you advice on everything, but definitely try the snuggle puppy. I've heard other people mention it on this sub and it apparently replicates the sound of a heartbeat and has heat inserts that your puppy might want to cuddle with.

I bought an automatic feeder for my cats years ago when they were eating all their food at once and then bugging me for more. I like this one because you can set it to feed them when you want to up to five times a day. So long as you measure the amount of food in each dish you shouldn't have to worry about over feeding them. Now my cats can tell time, and the only time they whine at me for food is when I forget to refill the dish. It wouldn't work for wet food very well, but it's great for dry food.

Sure!

I've got one of these, and it goes off twice a day, early in the morning, and in the afternoon. Then she gets some raw food in the evening, and the feeder gets refilled every 2 days.

We have this feeder at our house. Like yours, our cat will gorge until she barfs, so we use it all the time. Like eveekay said, get the feeder ASAP and start using it before you leave to be absolutely sure the feeder doesn't have any issues and that your guys are making proper use of it.

Biggest problem I've heard from other cat owners is that their cats find a way to open the feeder and feed themselves. Luckily my cat is dumb as dirt and hasn't figured this out yet.

There are timed automatic feeders for both dry and wet food. Here's a link to one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-5-Meal-Automatic-Dispenses-Digital/dp/B000GEWHNS?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_3038413011

I'm not sure why you want to moisten his food. His teeth will be fine chewing kibble.

However, you would probably do better with something like this for wet food.

Not sure this is exactly the kind of thing you’ll want, and it’s right at that $50 cutoff, but I love this PetSafe feeder. It is battery operated and rotates through five vestibules. Works for either wet or dry food but I imagine wet would get rather crusty?? Anyway, we use it for weekends away because it’s perfect for covering two days with two feedings a day. You could easily refill it throughout the week though, to use it all the time. It’s especially helpful if you’re trying to only feed your pet a certain amount or monitor their food intake. The only downside is that it’s better for smaller animals probably—cats or smaller dogs. Or smaller food portions, anyway.

It's this one on amazon! We chose it over this style because we were worried she'd figure out how to reach her greedy little paws up in there!

Also yay for chubby black cats ♡♡

I only have the one cat, however, I've had this one for years. It runs on 4 C batteries (which I've only ever changed once) and you can program it for one or more feedings per day. It also says it's good for both wet and dry food, though I've only tried it with dry because I feed her a 1/2 can every night and the dry is for mid-day snacking. They're not too expensive assuming you'd need a few at least but I love this thing and I can vouch that it's worked well for years.

PetSafe 5-Meal Automatic Pet Feeder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GEWHNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TsQCzb19VFYXD

There are a couple of brands, we have this one but if you search 5 meal feeder you'll find a lot. Or N meals.

How many times a day do you feed your pet? Mine has 5 slots but I feed twice daily so it only lasts 2.5 days.

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GEWHNS/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1526159494&sr=8-5&keywords=petsafe+feeder&dpPl=1&dpID=41iXWZ1eDYL&ref=plSrch

Link to the feeder I use. This company makes much fancier models as well, but this one is really basic and does what I need without being super expensive.

I don't have a website, but here's my experience:



food - it's pretty basic, but make sure you provide them with clean, fresh water every day. also (and this is just my personal opinion) try not to feed exclusively dry food. it is convenient, but is very high in carbohydrates (not good), whereas wet food has more fat and protein, and of course a lot more moisture! more moisture means less chances of your kitty getting a UTI or blockage, both of which are pretty bad. the very best thing you could do would be to feed only wet food, but that may not be possible as dry food can be more economical. also try to avoid by-products and grain IF possible. many brands will have a recommended feeding guide on their site or on the package so you'll have some idea of how much food your kitty needs.


play - cats have a reputation for being lazy, but they do require stimulation (some more than others)! try to play with them at least once or twice a day, even if it's just with a laser pointer or letting them stalk and chase a toy like this.


litter box - keep it clean, scoop it out at least once a day and dump all the old litter and replace it with fresh litter when it starts to get smelly (for us it's about once every two weeks). this will help prevent litter box avoidance.


affection - depends on the cat. some are super cuddly and want a lot of attention and petting, others not so much. one of my cats will ONLY want affection/cuddles in the morning, and typically ignores me for the rest of the day. the other chirps at me when she wants scritches or to get on my lap. ymmv.


other needs - kitties need to scratch! to save your furniture, get a couple of vertical and/or horizontal scratchers to place around your house. discourage them from scratching on furniture (a firm "NO!" will usually be enough of a deterrent) and if they still do, invest in some sticky tape. cats also like to climb and look down on their ~kingdom~, so a cat tree or at least a small perch is always a good investment.

ugh that was REALLY long, I'm sorry. if you have can, watch "My Cat From Hell" (it's on Netflix!). You'll learn a lot about cat needs and how they operate. Good luck and good for you for considering adoption!

Yup! He's got a Da Mouse toy that he absolutely loves and he's surprisingly good at hunting it.

This would not only make me happy, but my kitten very happy as well

Make me smile, Rasta - its a dreary Monday here too :(

How much time do you spend each day playing with them? I mean with toys, like this. Cats bore easily, and in the absence of being worn out by play, they're going to find other stuff to amuse themselves - like picking fights.

They need stimulation... interesting vertical surfaces to climb, places to hide, stuff to chase. They're cats... they're not stuffed animals who spend all their time sitting and looking pretty.

If you still have aggression issues despite wearing Nip out (15 minutes of heavy play should do it), then plugging in a few of these may curb his aggressive nature a bit.

We have a male that was constantly after our old grumpy female. He'd stalk her and pounce, she'd freak the fuck out and back in a corner growling, he'd menace her, and she'd end up even more neurotic than before (she was a rescue, suffered abuse previously). The combination of really active play and the diffusers has made our home peaceful again for all three of our furkids.

You have me stumped on the mexican candy.

But, I recommend this cat toy. I know it looks just like any other "mouse at the end of a string" cat toy, but there's something special about this one. My cat is a bit of a toy snob and puts her nose up at most toys. But she goes ape shit for this one. I think it's because it uses thin wire instead of a more obvious string. She's more willing to pretend that it's a real mouse. They also have feather refills that look awesome. They flutter through the air very convincingly.

My cat is obsessed with this wand toy. I’ve bought several of them, and he never gets tired of it! Pretty sure he loves it because the mouse looks like an actual mouse: https://www.amazon.com/Go-Cat-Catcher-Teaser-Mouse/dp/B000LPOUNW

Is it this mouse? with the metal string and it attaches with a fishing thing? My cat freaking LOVES this thing.

Here is something to try. Both of my cats like this one -- and they don't agree on much.

On the other hand, my lazy cat wants to lay on her back, and bat at it in the air above her. But my boy jumps up into the air to get it. He's more active with this than even da bird.

https://www.amazon.com/Go-Cat-Catcher-Teaser-Mouse/dp/B000LPOUNW/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=mouse+wire+toy&qid=1570430393&sr=8-1

He loves this mouse want toy! I move it in a circle and he follows with a backflip, its insane! He's definitely lost some chonk since the extreme gymnastic training.

There are many things you can try, and ultimately it’s just the more responsible cat guardian to do. Most people think cats like to sleep all day, but my 45years of cat parent experience definitely shows otherwise. Cats will sleep if they have nothing else to do, but the two main things your cat is going to need are 1. Stimulation and play and 2. Territory.

Outdoor cats have established territory, it will take a while for your cat to adjust, so be prepared for many attempted jail breaks. A tall baby gate at the door may help, you can get a 48inch gate on amazon.

Secondly, your cat needs attention and distraction- but a couple of cat wands, one with a feather twirly at the end and one with a deer hair mouse - every cat I have ever known love these:

GoCat Da Bird Rod and Feather Cat Toy, Handmade in The USA (1 Bird) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BOVEU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5zHZDb58EY5F7

Go Cat Cat Catcher Teaser Wand with Mouse Cat Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LPOUNW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LAHZDbYVCB38S

But what ever it’s your cat likes, work towards 10 solid hunting minutes in the morning and again at night. Use the cats favorite toy to distract when they want to go out.

Finally- there is an amazing calming product called “licks”. If your cat starts howling, you squeeze the packet on their front arm, work it into the Fur, they lick it off and it was better for calming my cat than Prozac.

Licks - Cat Zen - Calming Aid and Stress Management- Tryptophan, L-Theanine, Eleuthero Root, and Ashwagandha Root - LiquiPaks - 30 Use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SLBMLR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4CHZDbM1TA9DC

Good luck!!!

I've bought a ton of toys for our kitten in the last few months, but these are his absolute favorites: Bergan Turbo Scratcher, a crinkle tube like this one, Cat Dancer, and the Go Cat mouse on a string toy. With the Go Cat mouse toy especially, he definitely lets you know he loves that toy. It's the only one he never ignores and the only one he will pick up in his mouth and carry to his "den" like it's real prey.

We also got him a fluffy mouse puppet that he loves to wrestle with. I might just be projecting, but it seems like it kind of makes up for the lack of another furry companion to play with. Bonus points: it lets you play hands-on without getting your hands scratched up.

The bitter apple spray doesn't seem to deter our cat much, but liberal application of Sticky Paws (double sided tape) and taping loose cords to the wall helps keep him away from scratching and biting things he shouldn't be messing with.

Also, if you have house plants, look them up to make sure they aren't toxic to cats. The kitten's interest in chewing on plants may vary, of course, but ours loves chewing and climbing on plants. The ASPCA has the most comprehensive list of plants that are toxic to pets.

get a covered littler box... and get the arm and hammer double duty cat litter... it's the best I have come across so far to absorb odors...

also, you will probably have to promise her to clean the litter box all the time... if you decide to get multiple cats, you need at least one litter box per cat... plus one more if you get several cats... but that's a little down the line... gotta get the first one in the door first...

what you may have to do is just go out and get one... get a kitten because who the hell can resist their perpetual cuteness... she should fall in love instantly... but, if you don't want to take a chance of having her kill you and want her to be in on it, one thing to know, that I have experienced, when you get a kitten, the person who holds it on the ride home will become it's mom/dad (this may be theory, but it has happened with all our cats) so you may want to have a friend take you so the both of you can be there to play with it on the way home...

whatever you do, DON'T get a cat declawed... it's wrong and mean and needless if you have the proper scratching things for them to... well, scratch on... our cats like those disposable cardboard scratchers you see at the pet store...

you'll probably want a cat tree too... something where it has places to hide and a platform to get up above most of the action... if you have the tools and ability, you can even make your own out of wood and carpeting... cats will even scratch on those...

when you bring them home for the first time, open their carrier and let them come out at their own pace... don't force them out... and if they do bolt out and hide somewhere, let them stay hidden until they come out on their own... but have plenty of toys for them to choose from... I suggest one of these and one of these because our cats love them...

as for food, get the appropriate food for their age... preferably an indoor formula that helps with hairballs... because they WILL hork up hairballs regularly... be ready to clean those too... for water, I suggest one of these since cats love to drink from the faucets... so break that habit before it even starts so you're not here in three to six months asking about cats and drinking from the sink...

umm... that's all I can think of off the top of my head... I am by no means a professional, but just someone who cares about their cats (and I have a girlfriend so I am not a crazy cat guy)

any other questions, just ask... someone will be able to answer what I can't

TL;DR: none. it's a lot to read, but it's good info as far as I understand...

I have always had kitties, and have 3 right now. I wouldn't get her started on live animals, that could make her always wanting live prey, and if she's eating them on a regular basis she will most likely always have worms (that's how they get them). She is playing with you, and you should get her some toys and just wear her out. A laser pointer is a great one, as well as any feather dancer type toy or something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Da-Bird-Catcher-Feather-Toys/dp/B000LPOUNW/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342728269&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=fealther+dancer+toy


My oldest kitty was crazy as a kitten, attacking and biting me even as I slept, and playing with him on a regular basis helped. He mellowed out a lot as a grew older.

This Go Cat Cat Catcher toy. One of my cats will drag it around the house. You put it in a cardboard box and she's in heaven. http://www.amazon.com/Go-Cat-Catcher-Teaser-Mouse/dp/B000LPOUNW/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1427228912&sr=1-2&keywords=cat+toy

Get a laser pointer and a wand toy. My cat goes absolutely bonkers over this toy:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000LPOUNW/ref=mp_s_a_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1500044914&sr=8-25&keywords=cat+toys+wand

This is a pretty nice small internal filter. Unless you want to go with a hob style oooor maybe you are into the sponge filter world

OP, I'd avoid the Marineland because it has a built in filter. I'd get the Tetra and a nano filter like this one.

I have that filter on my 2 gallon tank, and it's pretty spiffy. I just keep a few cherry shrimp in my little tank.

5 gallons would be enough for a single betta, dario dario, badis badis, or similar solitary fish. A couple of guppies would be fine, but DO NOT mix male and females unless you enjoy being overrun with fry. There are 'micro' fish, too, that you could stock three or four of, but I'm not familiar with any of them.

Second that this filter just isn't worth it. I couldn't stand the thing!

I absolutely love this filter, I've had three of them. It is an internal filter for small tanks that doesn't require an air pump. It's super quiet and because of the arm attachment it produces very little current especially if you aim it at the wall. Would very highly recommend it.

I have a Tom's Mini Internal in both of my betta tanks. They are sponge filters, but I cut out like 1.5cm of the bottom so I could jam a couple ceramic rings in there too. Works like a charm, just need to keep an eye on it for cleaning because it is so small. I just point the small spray bar at the tank wall and thumbs up! You can completely submerge it if it's only a betta in the tank.

Is this the one?

I used it for maybe 7 months to keep one small male in. For the most part I liked it. The LED light worked fine, but I only had one anubias plant growing in there. With a betta there is no use for the bubble thing that comes with it (though I do use it on a larger tank to move still surface water). The filter that comes with it is a joke, so I used this filter. I preferred the spray bar attachment that comes with the filer, though you do have to angle it very precisely to get it work with the lid on. I'm sure you could use the waterfall attachment more easily if you baffled it. I did go through three heaters while using this tank, but that isn't the tanks fault.

My biggest complaint was how quickly the water evaporated, but that is to be expected with such a small tank. I did 1 gallon (approximately) water change every 3-4 days and added water to the tank daily to make up for evaporation. To make water changes easy I used a half gallon pitcher and the cup my betta came in to scoop water from the tank.

I live in a small condo with my boyfriend and understand what you mean about space. That 3 gallon tank got moved all over the place, it literally spent time every room that wasn't the bathroom. It is easy to move if need be and can be stashed in some really creative places. I've actually dropped it (empty) a few times and it has held up surprisingly well with no damage.

All that being said, I wouldn't buy it again. I use it now as a hospital tank. Unfortunately, I don't have any experience with the fluval chi for comparison. But if give the choice between the two I would go with a five gallon.

I wrote all this on my phone, I hope I've not made too many mistakes.

TOM Aquarium Mini Internal Filter 45gph adjustable flow is the one I use in my 2.5 gallon. Keeps the water clear and not too much for the betta. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00176GKM8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_mSLEub1DK6ZFR

Also, just a note that filter is currently on recall by PetSmart. You can return the filter to a PetSmart and get ~$16 back no questions, and then buy yourself a better filter elsewhere if you want: http://phx.corporate-ir.net/phoenix.zhtml?c=196265&p=factset72
I've had my eye on this filter: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00176GKM8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=206IQ9CF332Y&coliid=I34IFQSAA7VMHS

In reference to this comment, I recommend the TOM mini filter. For $16 it has 45GPH filtration and an extension for the water current to be broken up so it doesn't stress the betta. You can also take the carbon it comes with and fill it with another biological media if you'd wish. There's no refill cartridges, so you can control all the elements with whatever filtration you prefer

I haven't used this specific tank for shrimps, but I do have one for bettas AND have other shrimp tanks. If you're super serious and have about $70 to spend, it can be converted into the easiest shrimp tank ever!

Ditch the cover; the best setup for shrimp involves live plants, and the lighting under there unfortunately won't support it. For that size tank, a Finnex Ultra Slim would be ideal. It'll grow literally any aquatic plant you could possibly buy like weeds. For filtration I'd recommend a Tom mini; it's gentle, can't suck up any babies, and dead quiet.

I know it seems pricey at first but as a hobbyist you probably already know that the setup cost is always the most important. It'll be almost foolproof, trust me. I can PM you examples of my tanks if you want.

Links:

http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Internal-Filter-45gph-adjustable/dp/B00176GKM8/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1383202386&sr=1-1&keywords=tom+mini+filter

http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Fugeray-R-Ultra-Aquarium-Fixture/dp/B00BP6QGIS/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1383202399&sr=1-2&keywords=finnex+fugeray

TOM mini 45gph


It was a little strong at first but after 1 month i think the bacteria inside the filter and the plants kind of help to slow down the flow

I have this filter in a small shrimp tank (some have said it works great w/o the filter as a small powerhead) and this sponge filter in another shrimp tank.

Sure, I believe I got in from amazon!

https://www.amazon.com/MidWest-Critter-Nation-Animal-Habitat/dp/B001NJ0DAY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483726860&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=double+critter+nation&psc=1

Oh sorry! That is a "Double Critter Nation" https://www.amazon.com/MidWest-Critter-162-leak-Proof-Measures/dp/B001NJ0DAY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518569969&sr=8-2&keywords=double+critter+nation+cage They look like that.

I actually started with my 2 chins in the same exact cage. Wound up going with the critternation at Petsmart for $260, you can get it on amazon for about $200 though:

http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Critter-Nation-Animal-Habitat/dp/B001NJ0DAY

mine came with plastic trays, very similar to a dog crate, but they make metal trays that are obviously chew proof. My gf and I made felt slipover covers for the tray though (for their feetsies, and to prevent plastic chewing), and they absolutely LOVE it!

This one is from Critter Nation. The bigger one of the 2 on that page. It is a great cage and I love the huge doors. I can open them fully while I clean the cage and the gliders don't even jump out.

You are very welcome and here are some links to the 2 cages I suggested

https://www.amazon.com/MidWest-Critter-162-leak-Proof-Measures/dp/B001NJ0DAY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549276276&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=ferret+nation&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Prevue-Hendryx-485-Products-Hammertone/dp/B000QFMYWQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549276306&sr=8-1&keywords=feisty+ferret

My vet has told me it is also super important to feed a wide variety of food. This is my list that I use to find good foods

https://www.dropbox.com/s/a3tj2jbsfiekjin/FruitVegLIST2011.pdf?dl=0

and this is a modified hpw recipe
Ratio 2.05:1 Calcium 21.47 mg Phos 10.46 mg

Protein 0.59 g Sugar 2.94 g Iron 0.05 mg

Fat 0.23 g Fiber 0.06 g



1 cup Juice (Gerber Yogurt Juice *Green Juice plus extra 1/8 tsp Calcium)

1 cup Honey

3 Large Eggs - cooked

6 oz Yogurt - Plain or Low Fat Vanilla

2 TBS Bee Pollen Granules

1/2 cup Wombaroo High Protein Supplement

1 tsp NOW brand Calcium Carbonate Powder (1200 mg / tsp)

Add Water about 1 cup - using just enough to make the full batch equal 5 cups total.



Once it's made stick it in the freezer, it scoops out like ice cream.

here's a place you can get the wombaroo powder
http://www.thepamperedglider.com/supplements.htm

the 1 kilo box lasts about 1.5 years for two gliders. Keep it in the freezer


I got them this cage
https://www.amazon.com/MidWest-Critter-Nation-Animal-Habitat/dp/B001NJ0DAY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487078028&sr=8-1&keywords=double+critter+nation

and this wheel
https://www.amazon.com/Exercise-Wheel-Gliders-Rats-Stealth-XMount/dp/B00GEI46XE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487078063&sr=8-1&keywords=stealth+glider+wheel

and they love life. They also holy flying hell love meal worms.

The cage is a two level critter nation, sometimes branded as a ferret nation. The bars are coated and chew resistant and the doors come off to make it easier to work on the insides. Overall we are very happy with it. We got ours from amazon on sale with free shipping.

This is the one we purchased, but paid closer to $180 at the time. They are somewhat modular as far as adding levels and laying out the insides.

Midwest Critter Nation Animal Habitat with Stand, Double Unit, 36 Inches by 24 Inches by 63 Inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NJ0DAY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Dthsub0KHMHXE

If you really want to know all that is mixed into that dog, Amazon sells a dog DNA kit. Click Here

We did DNA testing on our dog and found out she is 100% poodle. The previous owner said she was, but when do you believe someone saying a dog is 100% anything when they are selling unregistered puppies.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EHX2BH0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473966322&sr=8-1&keywords=dog+dna+test&pi=SX200_QL40

If you do this, please let us know! I'm curious :)

Widsom Panel is $80, and I was very pleased.

https://www.amazon.com/Wisdom-Identification-Canine-Genetic-Ancestry/dp/B01EHX2BH0

You can cut amazon links off before the ref, all you need is this:
https://www.amazon.com/Wisdom-Identification-Canine-Genetic-Ancestry/dp/B01EHX2BH0

Or put some text in brackets followed by the link in paranethesis text, so you get this and it doesn't matter how long the link is.

It was this one. We thought it was pretty spot on based on the way he looks and the fact that we rescued.

One of our large pet chain stores sells them which I suppose has increased their popularity slightly. They aren't common though! People still look at me confused when I say what they are. Try this: http://www.amazon.com/MidWest-Critter-Nation-Animal-Habitat/dp/B001NJ0DAY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449847947&sr=8-1&keywords=liberta+explorer+cage

On Amazon it's $240 with free shipping. On Dog.com it's actually cheaper to buy the Single unit for $105 and the add-on unit for $88, though I don't know what shipping would be for that. And now that I'm looking, dog.com is out of stock on the single unit. PetSmart also has a cage similar to the DCN for $220.

I've never had females myself, but from what I've read here, males scent mark much more than females do. Females may still do it, idk, but males do it a lot unless they're neutered.

My little guy loves this!
I have a bunch of cheap $5 polar fleece blankets from Walmart that he loves and makes it super easy to keep the cage clean.
EDIT: formatting

Here! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001NJ0DAY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511978998&sr=8-2&keywords=critter+nation+double&dpPl=1&dpID=51Ni5J14u-L&ref=plSrch It's on sale until December 4th I believe.

I recommend amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001NJ0DAY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1512059111&sr=8-1&keywords=critter+cage&dpPl=1 It is cheap right now and awesome.

I upgraded to the Midwest Deluxe Critter Nation Two Story https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NJ0DAY/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I like the horizontal bars, its size, the flat floor, large doors, and that you can expand it. I can only recommend it if you are willing to work on it, as it can be hard to put together and dangerous otherwise.

If the pieces were perfect, it would not be hard to put together. But some of the connections were bent and needed to be straitened, had a bad weld that made a gap, so had to be creative and a second set of hands to get it into place. It is just a one time headache and your set might be better.

For sugar gliders, you will want to not add the middle floor section, not adding it exposes holes, and then there is holes for where you can add the adjustable shelves.

The dangerous part is the holes have sharp edges, so they need to be filed smooth. Also, the punched out bit is still in the holes on most of them. They can be removed with needle nose pliers. If this is not done, I would worry about a curious sugar glider loosing a finger or whole hand...

​

The one I had before was the HQ Flight Cage https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UTZ040/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It is a little smaller, but still a descent size, it has bars on the bottom and slide out floor under it, so with a bit of newspaper (or what ever you prefer) it was easy to clean it, the smaller doors can be an advantage if you have have trouble keeping the gliders inside when you open it.

I had it for three years, the main reason I replaced it is I did not like the vertical bars, even though I never had an issue, I worried about it hurting their feet, as they always slid down on the bars a bit and with the bars on the bottom, they did not have much flat ground to stand on. I also wanting something a bit larger.

Other wise, it was a great cage. It was easy to put together and the only adjustment I had to make was to zip tie shut the little bird doors on the top of it.

​

I looked into both cages, before getting them, to make sure they were not coated with anything toxic to sugar gliders, which is the main issue with cheap bird cages.

I think this is the laser I bought. It turns itself off after 15 minutes. Sometimes I set it up in the basement and shut the door so my cat can play without the dog. Since your dogs keep stealing the cat toys you might want to only take them out when you can supervise or when the dogs can't get to them. You could also get a cat tower that has toys on it. Hopefully the dogs wouldn't try to climb it.

some cats like http://www.amazon.com/FroliCat-BOLT-Interactive-Laser-Pet/dp/B0021L8W6K

I got my cat a friend to play with.

If he doesn't react, try a different color.

Here is an [automated laser toy](
http://www.amazon.com/FroliCat-BOLT-Interactive-Laser-Pet/dp/B0021L8W6K), btw.

also found this, which looks cool

Get one of these automated laser pointer toys and only turn it on at night til he gets over it.

FroliCat BOLT Interactive Laser Pet Toy

This gave me back some sanity.

This is a few dollars over $10 but looks pretty sweet :D I limit my laser time with my kitties :P

Also if possible any of these for my new work desk would be awesommmeee!

Check this out

Solution

Adopt a cat after you move. Gives an extra level of stress to the new kitten.

However, try to get the second cat right when you move in, so that the original cat doesn't have a lot of time to establish territory

get some toys that move by them self, like these:
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Bolt-Interactive-Laser-Cat/dp/B0021L8W6K/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=auto+cat+laser&qid=1550416273&s=gateway&sr=8-6

or

https://www.amazon.com/Zenes-Butterfly-Cat-Toy-Replacement/dp/B07B4XGY1Z/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=cat+butterfly+toy&qid=1550416295&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1


also, continue giving the cat treats and petting her or kissing her once in a while so she knows that you still love her :)

Get this: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Bolt-Interactive-Laser-Cat/dp/B0021L8W6K Either gift it to your roommate or get him to pay for it, but it should effectively keep your cat busy at a time for at least 20 mins.

Get this as well https://www.amazon.com/Whitelotous-Microfiber-Automatic-Electric-Cleaning/dp/B06X9MWMSK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497565989&sr=8-1&keywords=electric+rolling+ball Find it on aliexpress or elsewhere on Amazon. Take it out of the fuzzy stuff and let it loose around the house.

If you're too broke to afford a $17 laser toy then I'm afraid you won't be able to hack one together for cheaper. The cheapest small dev board I can think of is itself $16 and you'd still need at least 3 servos, a mirror, ball joint, laser, power supply, wire, and a soldering iron.

Huh?

The cat dancer toy doesn't operate on its own or have lasers. Perhaps you were looking at something else (like this)?

It's a little over, but I think that your new kitty would enjoy dis : )

I got one of these automated lasers for my cat to play with. She loves it. Christmas present a few years back.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0021L8W6K?pc_redir=1409049734&robot_redir=1

This toy will be great for you and your kitten: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0021L8W6K/ref=ox_ya_oh_product


I have one and it keeps my cats busy

Hey there, I know exactly what you're dealing with. I Love pit bulls and had one for 13 years. Now my dog was very very chill when it came to bath time and getting his nails trimmed. But I also had him since he was 4 weeks old and I used to mess with him all the time while we would lay together ( put fingers in his mouth, ears, play with his toes, etc. ) which i think helps. Anyways my roommate has a blue and our dogs lived together and she HATED getting her nails trimmed.. mind you shes about 65 lbs with a massive head. Built like a tank and super strong. We would have hold her down unfortunately as best as we could. Literally my roommate would hold her with all his strength and I would take one of those pet grooming dremel kits (I got on amazon) and just go for it. Those dremels worked the best in my experience, really easy and fast. Before we had the dremel and just clippers it was almost impossible to trim her nails. I know it sucks to have to hold the dog down but maybe that dremel would help you. Also we would leave it out for her too, to help her get used to it. even when she would lay in her bed we would set it next to her.

this is the dremel I use.
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-PT-4-8-Volt-Pet-Grooming/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406066521&sr=8-1&keywords=dog+dremel

Good luck!

For getting rid of molded clothes, and so many other super useful things, I recommend owning a dremel, or other rotary tool.

You don't need a fancy one. I've got 3 dremel tools, of varying degrees of torque and power. One is identical to this one - only without the pet grooming branding. It's still a dremel - it'll still work.

Dremel 7300-PT 4.8V Pet Nail Grooming Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jF4xDb8CJPTXW
$30


I did find this guy for a super cheap price -
WEN 23006 Two-Speed Cordless Rotary Tool Kit with 10-Piece Accessory Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MSL9PW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4C4xDb9MG46FY
$12

Can't vouch for it being any good, given its price, but it should be compatible with the dremel rotary bits, and for a starter tool, and just working on dolls, it should be fine.

Whatever rotary you get, you'll need a few things to go with it. I recommend one or both of these -

Sanding drums
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BK1VRH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yJ4xDb738D61Y

Abrasive buffing wheels
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075C72PGK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NH4xDbCZ6DM5C

The buffing wheels are pretty good a removing tiny molded clothing details without eating up the plastic a lot.

If you ever do anything with apoxie-sculpt, the dremel can come in handy with grinding down things after its cured.

OH - and sand paper. Buy sand paper.

I recommend getting some 120 grit, 220 grit, and some 400 grit. You work your way from the lower, rougher paper, up to 400 to get a smooth finish. When you get up to 400, make sure you sand in circular motions to avoid leaving gouges in the plastic.

So this is the dremel:
https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-PT-4-8V-Nail-Grooming/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510937485&sr=8-3&keywords=dog+nail+dremel

I can't speak on longevity obviously, but compared to the ones I see in the youtube videos, it is much more quiet but plenty powerful. I started using it just on the low setting to acclimate her, but found that the high isn't much louder, and we get it done so much faster. But you could definitely just use the low setting, too. I really hope you have the same success as us if you get it. I feel like such a crappy owner when I let her nails get longer than they should be, but the struggle is real! I would dread taking her in for an entire week leading up to actually doing it.

Yea it's electric. It's not really a nail filer though... more of a rotary tool for general use. This is the model I have. It comes with a lot of different attachments: wire bushes, sanding drums, grinding stones, grinding wheels, small rotary files or burrs, maybe some more stuff so it's pretty useful around the house too.

My mom got me into it because she's involved with greyhound rescue groups and their nails are in really bad shape when they come off the tracks. Using clippers, they had way too many blood-spraying, dog-helping-in-pain-accidents. Clippers are easy to overshoot your intended cut and cut the quick and they're also known for splitting nails in half or muliple pieces, either right when you cut it or if they snag a small piece on the carpet it can rip off the splintered part of the nail.

My mom swears by [this extension](
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-225-01-Flex-Shaft-Attachment/dp/B0000302Y8/ref=pd_bxgy_469_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0HS02GVFVQ5Z8AQDSF7G) that allows the noise of the electric motor to be a few feet away. I don't have one these.


Then when you run out of sanding drums that came with your dremel, you can but a lifetime supply for [$8.99]
(http://www.amazon.com/TEMO-sand-coarse-Mandrel-dremel/dp/B00564U22G/ref=pd_sim_469_10?ie=UTF8&dpID=41G2GNphVlL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0YAGTNM5J58CC1PVN0B9)

Edit: Dremel must have caught on, they now sell a specific pet grooming model. I can't speak for it but it looks quite a bit smaller than mine, I'll admit mine is a little overkill but I use it for other things too.

+1 for the dremel trimmers. I had 5 dogs before I learned this trick. My just give me her paw like she's at the spa and it takes me 2 minutes a leg.

In fact, Dremel makes a tool just for pet nails.

I'd wear a jacket in case he tries to nip. It also helps to have two people (one to restrain rabbit, one to clip).

Some people also choose to file their rabbits nails using a dremel. It's a slower process, but for some rabbits stresses them out less. https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-PT-4-8V-Nail-Grooming/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540144457&sr=8-3&keywords=pet+nail+grinder+for+dogs

or

https://www.amazon.com/Hertzko-Electric-Painless-Grooming-Smoothing/dp/B01IPW47BW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1540144457&sr=8-4&keywords=pet+nail+grinder+for+dogs

Good luck!

I got a dremel pet tool to sand them down instead of cutting them. It's a lot more gentle so it hardly bothers them at all. Worth every penny

I suggest using a Dremel too, I have this: Dremel 7300-PT 4.8V Pet Nail Grooming Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bJ4AzbCECPMBF

I use the battery powered Dremel. They have one on Amazon for pets and it comes with instructions(for pet use) and some sanding drums.
Dremel 7300-PT 4.8-Volt Pet Grooming Kit
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_zePWub0KSDKZR


The price has changed since I got it. It was the same price as the non pet one.
Just do a little at a time even if its on nail then come back later and do another one. Another thing is having them walk on concrete .

Your new friend: [the dremel] (http://www.dailypuppy.com/articles/how-to-use-a-dremel-to-trim-a-dogs-nails_804.html) I got mine [online] (http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-PT-4-8-Volt-Pet-Grooming/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=sr_1_1?srs=5538998011&ie=UTF8&qid=1377028567&sr=8-1&keywords=dogs)

Worth a shot! It's a lot safer too as you can visually see when you're coming close to the quick. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XG4

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-PT-4-8V-Nail-Grooming/dp/B003TU0XG4

Dremel does make a nail grinder - their version of the Pedi Paws. I had a Pedi Paws and it kinda sucked and then ended up crapping out after only about a year or two. I replaced it with Dremel's version and it works so much better! I got mine on Amazon. It's only $25, so not too bad!

Dremel 7300-PT 4.8V Pet Nail Grooming Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pRZsyb2E1QJ4S

I also prefer Dremel over clippers after using them both. I like that the ends of the nail end up smooth instead of having somewhat sharp edges that you get with clippers. It's also easier to get the nail shorter, IMO, because if you do hit the quick it's a much smaller impact than clippers.

I use this one on the low setting . Find the right holding position for your dog (shouldn't be hard with a 40 pound-er) and tell him he's a good boy when he's not squirming. "Practice" using the Dremel on him without turning it on. You won't actually be trimming his nails at this point. When he seems to be used to that turn the Dremel on at arms length while still holding him. If he doesn't freak out then move it closer. Touch the handle end of the Dremel to a nail while the Dremel is on so he can feel the vibrations without the grinding. If he's still being a good boy then start trimming. The best time to do your dog's nails is when he's tired and/or asleep.

I've heard a normal dremel is best, just get the attachment for it, but I bought this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TU0XG4/
Have not been disappointed with it. It does take a long time to grind down hard black nails on large(70+lb) dogs, but I think that's probably true of any dremel.

We have always had a hard time clipping our pugs nails. They freak out, then I freak out and it become a whole mess. We purchased a Dremel nail grinder and it's much better now. Still takes two people, but a lot less freaking out on both parts. Here is the one we have http://www.amazon.com/B003TU0XG4.

Training is the main thing, not only because you can teach a dog to settle or stay, also because the concentration of training is exhausting for a dog.

You can also tire a dog quickly by playing with a flirt pole.

my mini wigglebutt has the same problem. He likes to be chased and chase things but doesn't like to return the ball. He thinks it is funner to drop the ball wait there and make me try and go get it and then he will pick it up and run. He gets nippy so its hard to play with him because he gets so amped up. i got him a tethertug that he will play with. https://tethertug.com I get him different squeaker toys to put on the end and he will latch onto it which is good. Although the toy is meant to be able to play by himself he does not like that. So I stay on the other end and get him amped up and swing it at him which he likes. He wont nip at me cause he will go after the toy and i don't have to go after every toy because it is in the ground. He will get tired pretty quickly which is nice. If you don't want to hammer a metal stake in the ground, I also have a flirt pole. its like the same thing as the tether tug but instead of it being in the ground you hold it and fly it around and my wigglebutt will hold on and likes to be dragged. https://www.amazon.com/Outward-Hound-41001-Exercise-Replacement/dp/B0042I5G2I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469571753&sr=8-1&keywords=flirt+pole something like this. I would recommend getting a flirt pole first to see if she likes the idea of having a toy on a pole. Hope this helps. it certainly has helped me not get nipped at, herded, or pull my shoulder out from playing with him.

I switched from normal bowl-feeding to [this food dispenser toy] (https://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Treat-Kibble-Dispensing-Puppy/dp/B01CP7B9L4/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468270533&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=bobalot+feeder) and my dog LOVES it. It's hilarious to watch him knock it around and he just about does cartwheels at meal times.

Is it possible to start taking your pups for walks to tire them out? Or teaching fetch to tire them out quicker in the backyard, or tug of war?

I've also been thinking about getting a [flirt pole] (https://www.amazon.com/Outward-Hound-41001-Exercise-Replacement/dp/B0042I5G2I/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1468270723&sr=1-1&keywords=flirt+pole) as my dog got to play with one at our training class this weekend and about crapped his pants (he really liked it). I think the trick is to figure out what activity your dogs likes best – chewing? squeaky stuff? chasing? digging? nosework? and then finding more focused activites related to that. Good luck!

We adopted our Yorkie at 7 months and I didn’t realize adolescence was a thing until about a week later. He’s 8 months now and still has his moments. We started clicker training with him via a group class and it’s helped eons. What I’d recommend most is what you seem to be doing—longer walks to help with excess energy. You may also want to look into mental stimulation. Our trainer recommended taking Amazon or any sort of packaging boxes and playing scent games using them. They seem to tire out our guy.

One more—this lure toy or anything like it. it helps SO MUCH with excess energy.

Flirt poles are god send especially on a rainy day. Dogs will chase that thing until they're ready to pass out. May want to get the "off" command down before getting the flirt pole just so it's not so annoying getting the dog to let it go. Flirt poles don't hold up as well as I would like.

I have always bought my dogs this one

I absolutely second the flirt pole if you can get your backyard fenced in. Hell, I use it in my house for Charlie (though he's only 8 lbs and I have a decent sized living room.) I also take him in the backyard with a flirt pole and long line attached to his harness. You might look into those too. Long line and Flirt Pole

My dogs favorite are her flirt pole and "Find it". You can also ask for some more tips on /r/Dogtraining

Shibas play differently than other dogs. The best way we kept our girl interested in playtime with a ball was to get a cat toy - had a stuffed bird inside and made noise when it rolled. She loved it and it spurred her prey drive. We also got a dog-hearty flirt pole and it’s still her favorite toy.

For the biting - he’s probably never been taught how to mouth rather than bite down and doesn’t realize what he’s doing. The trainer should be able to help with that.

I have a very high energy dog as well. He has separation anxiety and can be destructive when bored as well.
Crate training was hard and took more than 6 months but gives him a safe place while we are gone. He’s even gone into the kennel on his own one time when he saw me getting ready to leave!
Establishing a morning/daily routine also has helped a ton with that. That would also help with the house training!
As far as the energy goes, both mental stimulation and physical exercise are important. We take Benji to the dog park almost every day. If we don’t make it there, he gets a long (2-4mi) walk in the morning and evening. The exercise is good for me too! We got a martingale collar and that has helped a ton for the pulling! Highly recommend. We also got this toy which may help you as well- he loves it! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042I5G2I/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_9ldRBbTG31S4F Mental stimulation can be new smells or behavior/clicker/treat training.

Good luck!

I use a sponge filter (this one). It's super cheap, and you just hook it up to a regular air pump. Plus there's literally NO WAY that a betta can hurt himself or his fins on it (thank god), it makes little to no current, and it's a great little home for beneficial bacteria in cycling tanks.

After reading up, max size 6 the Siamese is 6"! and 2" for the Otos... Probably going to get an Oto in there after the Siamese gets bigger. Although it seems like the Siamese does a better job of cleaning up, they are super active compared to the Otos I have at home.

Does that Aqueon take up much room in your Jar? I was looking at some other filters Sponge Filter and Lee's Triple Flow. Do you have any knowledge on these ones? I'm really hesitant to take up any more space in this jar.

I have 4 bettas side by side, each in their own 5.5gal tanks Currently using this (in each tank):

https://www.amazon.com/XINYOU-XY-2835-Aquarium-Cylinder-Sponge/dp/B005LMQCW2/ref=pd_rhf_gw_p_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=642J70SPWZJKV2CTNH2X

all 4 filters are powered by this:

https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-68286-Quiet-Flow-Pump/dp/B0157AM406/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1487877928&sr=1-5&keywords=aqueon+air+pump

The only time I notice noise is if anything is resting on it (power cords, tubing, etc) there is some vibrating. Just move it and I don't even notice the noise.

I have not been able to find sponge filters in pet stores. I have used this one

sponge filter

There are lots of different ones on amazon, just choose a seller from the u.s.

As far as cycling, at this point it will be better to do an in-fish cycle. The reason being the toxic ammonia will be more diluted in 2.5 gallons then 1 gallon. Unless you can do daily water changes on the 1 gallon.

Also look for a bottle of prime or other ammonia binder. You could try and introduce it to your grandmother as something that will help the fish, and to put it in the tank with daily feedings. If it is necessary, make something up. Like it makes him shiny or whatever. (Not that lying is good.)

XINYOU XY-2835 Fish Aquarium Mini Cylinder Soft Sponge Water Filter, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LMQCW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dTQazbBJ4V3H7

It's working so well especially for that price!

Hmm, I'm pretty sure I have this sponge running on the whisper 10 that is good enough for the 10 gallon tank on it's own. This is the one on the whisper 40 but it takes up a ton of space and is big enough for a 40 gallon lol.

Aqadvisor is good for estimating bioload levels, but it's not so great at getting the minimum tank size for each species. Tanks can be overstocked in two ways, bioload or space. I use seriouslyfish.com for the space part and Aqadvisor for the bioload part

Well when you get your larger tank, try a sponge filter. It's perfect for bettas because it produces very little current. Also oxygenates the water for you.

Don't compare your stock levels to fish store stock levels. They have to overstock to make a profit. If they used typical aquarium stocking levels it would take far too many tanks to hold all the fish they sell. Stores just over filter the tank, water change frequently, and try to sell off the fish before the overcrowding stress gets to them.

I purchased the same tank and found the filter to be difficult to work with. I would recommend a small sponge filter in the corner to filter and oxygenate the tank sufficiently. Something like this.

this is the smallest sponge filter i found on amazon

Jardin Fish Aquarium Mini Cylinder Soft Sponge Water Filter, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LMQCW2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_NQWXub0Y5P1N9


I have something similar to that link. I plan using it with a battery powered air pump. Some people use sponge filters as their only filter.

You could swap your filter cartridges as you plan. There should be plenty of good bacteria in your gravel.

We use one of these for ball throwing. Can easily launch up to 60m.

https://www.amazon.com/Chuckit-Classic-Launcher-Colors-Vary/dp/B00006IX59

This is a Chuckit!

You will not be unprotected on your initial climb in if you use a line launcher or something similar on one side to put a line over the cross of your roof to the other. You then tie the rope in to a fixed point on the other side (like a tree or car) using a sling.

I used a kong ball with a hole in it (https://www.amazon.com/KONG-Ball-Dog-Medium-Large/dp/B0002DHOJA) and tied a thin 100 lb test nylon rope to it then launched it across with a dog ball launcher (https://www.amazon.com/Chuckit-Classic-Launcher-Colors-Vary/dp/B00006IX59). Once the small nylon rope was across the roof, I then tied it to a 100 foot 5/8" rope (https://www.amazon.com/Guardian-Fall-Protection-01360-VL58-100/dp/B004EEPTDG) and pulled it back across the roof so I could safely tie in.

It adds a few minutes to the time to get on the roof but it is worth it as you will have very low risk of falling because you will always be tied in.

I also use fall protection whenever I need to get up on a ladder on my 2nd story home. I have several different anchors that I can hang ropes from depending upon where I need to work.

You should also always be tied in moving anchor to anchor, something like this comes in really handy if you need to move across a larger roof: http://www.fallprotectionpros.com/guardian-big-boss-dual-leg-lanyard.html

This is a great video for finding rafters when you nail the fall protection in:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OIMEMffezwI

All in all you would need to buy:

• 3-4 permanent roof anchors
  
• Some kind of line launcher
  
• 100 foot rope and optionally sling unless you have a connection point on the other side
  
• Fall protection kit with 50 foot rope and harness
  
• Shingle remover to lift the shingles before you place the anchor under them.
  
• Roofing adhesive to seal the shingle back down when you are done.
  
  When I did this on my home I:
  
  
• Secured one end of the 100 foot rope on one side of the house.
  
• Line launched a lighter rope to the tied off 100 foot rope. I then tied the 100 foot rope to the light rope.
  
• Using the light rope I pulled the end of the 100 foot rope across the roof to the other side of the house.
  
• I connected into the 100 foot rope and used it to ascend to the roof peak
  
• I lifted the shingles and installed the first anchor in a rafter, finding the rafter using the hammer location method.
  
• I then attached into the newly placed anchor using the 50 foot rope so I could safely move on either side of the roof.
  
• I resealed the shingles using roofing cement.
  
  If your shingles are older this job will be tougher. Old shingles tend to tear instead of lifting.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

Just wanted to add another suggestion for leaving good marks, as no-one seems to have mentioned it yet... a regular ol' wooden spoon tends to leave quite prominent, and long-lasting, circular welts. And for a slightly different variation, a Chuckit (ball launcher - http://www.amazon.ca/Chuckit-Classic-Launcher-Colors-Vary/dp/B00006IX59) works super well too ;) The long, springy handle makes it fun to wield.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00006IX59?cache=b70fcc0ef9df54f5daac849831c2c0e8&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1405882789&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2 this is a great start for non-rainy days! I have an indomitable pitbull, this works wonders on tiring her out!

Fair warning, incoming essay haha

27 gallons is perfectly fine. The first thing you will want to read up on is the nitrogen cycle and fishless cycling. The best way to cycle your tank is to ask a local fish or pet store if they can give you some used filter media to jump start your cycle. If not, buy an API test kit and follow the steps in those guides then your tank will cycle in about a month.

For filters you have two main options Hang off the back (HOB) or canister. HOB are easy to maintain and clean which seems great as a beginner. They need to be cleaned every couple-few weeks. Aquaclear are great HOBs. For your size tank I would get an aquaclear 50 or two of the 20/30s (one for each side).

I prefer canister filters. They give you more options for customization, can hold more media, and don't need to be cleaned as often as HOB. Buuuut they typically come at a steeper price. The most popular brands are eheim, fluval, and sunsun. I have eheims and love them. Reviews for sunsuns can be hit or miss, but they definitely have good value for their price. When picking a filter you generally want a turnover rate of 8-10 times your tank size. So 27 gallon tank, youd want about 216 - 270 gallons per hour (gph), keep this in mind when picking a canister.

If you plan on tropical fish you will definitely need a heater. Aqueon pro and eheim make good heaters. If you go canister, you can get an inline heater which are nice because you don't have to look at it or try to hide it in your aquarium.

For planted tanks you need a substrate. The cheapest option is to use pool filter sand along with some root tabs. Look into the walstad method if you wanna keep it low tech and cheap. The only problem with this method is that if you ever want to move plants or hardscape around it can be a bit messy. The more expensive route is to buy some aquasoil. There are a few types, but the most well known is ADA aquasoil. These substrates are packed with nutrients that last at least a couple years usually. In between is to use a porous substrate like Fluorite or eco-complete. These come with a little nutrients, but will need fertilizers to continue its benefit.

Fertilizers area great way to keep your plants happy and healthy, but for many plants are not really necessary. If you decide to use them you can buy them in liquid or dry form. I suggest buying dry because it is much cheaper, but you will have to figure out how much you need to dose. Luckily there are calculators out there that can do it for us!

Lighting you have many options. My favorite are finnex LEDs. They are middle of the ground pricing wise and do their job very well in my experience. Here is a good guide for lighting. When researching a light you want to use you should do so by finding its PAR value at the level of your substrate. Low is about 0-30 PAR, medium 30-50, and high 50+ PAR. Low you don't need pressurized CO2 to avoid algae, medium it is recommended, but you can get away with a densely planted aquarium and use of seachem excel, and high you need pressurized CO2.

I like to use hardscape in my aquariums. Things like rock and drift wood give a natural appearance to aquariums, provide shelter for livestock and take up space. If you get into aquascpaing, hardscape plays a major role.

Plant selection will depend on your lighting, fertilizer, and CO2. Here is a list of good low light/low tech plants. If you want more demanding plants do your research and ask questions if you have them!

Fish selection depends on you and what you like. See a fish you're interested in? Do NOT automatically trust a sales man at a petshop or fish store. Do your own research on the fish before buying and ask questions about people's experience with the fish and its compatibility with your tank. In a 27 gallon you can fit 1, maybe 2, groups of most smaller schooling fish and then some bottom feeders.

A general stocking plan would be 10-12 of a schooling fish like neon tetra (or something of that size), 10 salt and pepper cories, 6 otocinclus, and some red cherry shrimp.

The most important advice I can give you is to do your research. Doing your research will save you time and money. People are generally friendly and helpful on this subreddit so don't be afraid to ask more questions.

Yep it's going onto a bureau. For the filter I was thinking of the AquaClear 50 More water stability is also always nice

Lighting: It depends on how deep the tank is. In my 55g, 29g, and standard 20g, crypts and small swords have a really hard time with standard T5 fluorescent lighting. With double-bright LEDs, they do OK.

Anubias and java ferns are my heroes. They don't grow very fast, but they just don't need a lot of fussing over, either.

Java moss won't grow where it doesn't get light -- but it doesn't have to be strong light.

If I had my preference, every tank I own would have the proportions of a 20g long. There's a lot of volume for water and fish, but it's nice and shallow so it's easy to light and for plants to thrive. My 20g long has the crappiest lights and the most prolific growth of plants.

HOB filters: If you look at the way Aquaclear filters are put together, there are three distinct components. There's a coarse foam insert for mechanical filtration. There are pumice beads with lots of surface area for bacterial cultures to grow (bacterial filtration). Finally, there's a carbon packet that's meant to provide chemical filtration. They're all really important in an aquarium, but I rely on my plants to do the chemical filtration bit.

Now, don't get me wrong -- I've run tanks with Penguin & Aqueon & Biobag filters with the carbon already in there and it didn't kill my plants. But with my heavily planted tanks (where I've upgraded to Aquaclear filters), I have been able to completely omit the carbon component to no ill effect for my plants or my fish.

If nothing else, it reduces my operational costs. All I do is rinse out the foam insert from time to time and/or run the pumice beads under the tap to wash off the schmutz. They don't wear out (at least not in the time I've had mine running), and they shouldn't be scrubbed or sanitized, because the invisicritters that would make us sick are the things that keep the tank healthy.

The biggest thing that I've discovered to help my low-tech, low-light planted tanks look great is to take advantage of vertical planting, meaning that I get big (tall) pieces of driftwood and anchor plants all over them. That way, I end up with greenery going gangbusters at various levels without having to rely on some kind of stem plant (although Hygrophilia difformis/water wisteria is a good one) to grow upwards all the way from the bottom of the tank.

I really like these filters
http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-50-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUM

for a 30 gallon tank you'd want one capable of up to 50 gallons or so.

Theyre great because of the three separate cartridges- Also, ignore the packaging, you can reuse the sponge and the ceramic rings indefinitely unless a terrible awful disease breaks out. So this filter saves you money too!!

Edit: Puffers are usually too big/aggressive/brackish to include in a tank like this. Unless you had mollies/platys which have a high salt tolerance. Cories have zero salt tolerance tough.

Some of my favorite community fish are Galaxy Rasbora or Celestial Pearl Danio (same fish) I also like Badis. Theyre anabantids(sp) like the Betta.

I'd also highly recommend live plants. they really make you look good. Aquariumplants.com has total and trace substrate pellet fertilizer which Is pretty good at keeping them well fed.

My Ammonia and Nitrites spiked. After some help from you all my fish couldn't be happier. I got a second filter The AC50. I am leaving the old filter running in the tank for 6+ weeks to help grow good bacteria. I currently dont have another tank so I will leave both filter running, that and with 25% water changes every other day for a week plus Prime and Stability the fish should be quite happy.

• Slow water changes rate down to weekly.
  
• Next plan is to get some plants and a better lighting.
  
• Maybe start my plants in a second 10g tank, then move a few over to my big tank.
  
• My SO isnt too happy about my plan to spend more money on my fish tank but I enjoy it. so will see :D
  
  
  Thank you guys so much for all your help.

I understand. Sometimes life circumstances are what they are and we have to make the best of them. In that case I'll give you the same advice I gave to the other guy with goldfish in a 10g:

For the time being, the best course of action if you want to keep the fish and upgrading is impossible is to change out the water in the tank very frequently, I'd suggest half the water twice a week, and upgrade their filter to something heftier if you only have a filter rated for 10g--I recommend something like this Aquaclear 50. Make sure you move the filter media from your old filter over to the new one if you get a new filter as to not crash your cycle.

It is large and will look ridiculous on a 10g tank but the important thing is that it will effectively convert your fish's waste into less harmful compounds as quickly as possible given the higher flow rate, and this is extremely important to prevent lasting health problems from prolonged exposure to ammonia before a dinky 10g filter can get around to filtering all their water (goldfish are ammonia-producing machines). If you find the current to be too much for your fish with a more powerful filter, you can baffle the output flow with a piece of sponge so the current is diffused.

20g is a nice size to start with.

Ok, seeing as you've come out and stated you have very little knowledge I'm going to list the absolute necessities. Apologies if you already have these covered, but it's better to be over cautious!

• Filter - Absolutely 100% required, this is only second in importance to the water IMO. The Aquaclear 50 would suit you well. However there are many other suitable alternatives, of which you may already have one.
  
  
• Heater - Ok maybe it's necessity depends on the stock you want to keep, but I'm guessing you'll go tropical purely since most people do. A 50-100W heater should be powerful enough to maintain tropical temps.
  
  I'd encourage plants. They give the tank a natural look, as well as giving the fish places to hide and relax. Happy fish are the best fun to watch, so it's worth making sure they're comfortable!
  
  There are literally hundreds, if not thousands of stocking options you could go with. Try using this website to try out different options. It's not the absolute gospel, but a very good indicator.
  
  As for general advice, read, learn, and live the Fishless Cycle. It explains why cycling is necessary, and how to do it.
  
  Good luck, and post pics as you go along :)

Check out the Aquaclear 50.

I dunno if you'd call it "budget" but it's the best for the money really. Also, I take the carbon out and put in more bio material.

I definitely wish I got an aquaclear judging by the reviews. I got a top fin 20 on sale a long while ago for my 10 gallon, and for even less than half the cost I wouldn't get it again. Filtration isn't bad, but it is really loud. Somehow even louder with the cover on it. I ended up replacing it with a much larger penguin biowheel filter with some aquaclear sponges in place of the biowheels which is doing quite well.

By the way, if you are in the US amazon has the AC20 for a little bit cheaper.

I marked things with a [w] if they're on my WL!

1. Something that is grey. China Glaze Polish Ecollection Recycle [w]
   
   
2. Something reminiscent of rain. Hehe, a watering can [w]
   
   
3. Something food related that is unusual. Miracle Noodles - they're these weird low-carb noodles [w]
   
   
4. Something on your list that is for someone other than yourself. Tell me who it's for and why. (Yes, pets count!) LARPing Book for my friend Dennis. His is missing several pages, which is very frustrating to him. He's endlessly dear to me. [w]
   
   
5. A book I should read! I am an avid reader, so take your best shot and tell me why I need to read it! Other People's Love Letters - doesn't that just sound romantic? :D [w]
   
   
6. An item that is less than a dollar, including shipping... that is not jewelry, nail polish, and or hair related! Mickey Mouse Cookies!
   
   
7. Something related to cats. I love cats! (keep this SFW, you know who you are...) SmartCat [w]
   
   
8. Something that is not useful, but so beautiful you must have it. Triple heart necklace <3 [w]
   
   
9. A movie everyone should watch at least once in their life. Why? Love Me If You Dare. Everyone should have more French film in their lives. It's a beautiful, artistic, funny, romantic movie. The main characters are hot.
   
   
10. Something that would be useful when the zombies attack. Explain. Cast Iron is heavy! [w]
    
    
11. Something that would have a profound impact on your life and help you to achieve your current goals. For exercise, way easier on my knees than the treadmill [w]
    
    
12. One of those pesky Add-On items. Awesome fabric softener - and I really want it, too! [w]
    
    
13. The most expensive thing on your list. Your dream item. Why? A Roomba. I have pets. I need to vacuum more often. I'm lazy. Also he would be my robot butler friend. I'd name him Alfred or Jeeves or Pennyworth. My cats would be afraid of him. [w]
    
    
14. Something bigger than a bread box. A mattress is quite a bit bigger! [w]
    
    
15. Something smaller than a golf ball. Pearl earrings [w]
    
    
16. Something that smells wonderful. Lilac and Lilies! [w]
    
    
17. A (SFW) toy. Cat toy! [w]
    
    
18. Something that would be helpful for going back to school. Chromebook! It's actually for when my husband starts college. [w]
    
    
19. Something related to your current obsession, whatever that may be. Filter for my new fishtank! [w]
    
    
20. Something that is just so amazing and awe-inspiring that I simply must see it. Explain why it is so grand. Electric bike so, my comment on this is: “Theoretically I would like to bike. Realistically I'd like to bike, except up hills. Oh, here we are!”. Right?! Also what they sell electric bikes on Amazon? Damn! [w]
    
    Bonus:
    
    Oregon Chai!

Over filtration is always better. I recommend Aqua Clear 50 rated for 20-50g.

Aqueon quietflow 50 would also be a solid choice.

1- I’m aware of the window issue, but my house is full of windows (no complaints there!) and there wasn’t a better spot. That window is north facing and we rarely open the blinds.
2- except for the somewhat impulse bought setup I’m over planning.
3- substrate is sand and river stones.
4- I’m probably going with no background anyways, just out of laziness. I like the light strip idea.
5- definitely going with real plants
6- obviously. :) I have a dumbo plakat
7- I’m 100% getting corys. Do the different types have different personalities or just coloration? I’m leaning towards panda. I’m probably getting Harlequin Rasboras. I’m considering a snail because of the window/algae situation. I’m going to stock it really slowly though.
8- it came with a light.
9- already bought this filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FUM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kbSaBb411RKF2
10-13- already done
14- probably going with a floating log (or two)
15- I might use the small tank I’m moving my betta out of for shrimp.
16- will do. In the small tank I have I use a turkey baster as a “vacuum”, that’s not going to work anymore. Haha.

I’ll definitely post updates :)

https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116016506-Purigen-100ml/dp/B0002A5VK2

This stuff?

I agree with u/Dextix. Get an API Freshwater Test Kit. The media should rarely be changed, just rinsed in tank water, and even then just monthly at most. You need the beneficial bacteria or you’re killing your nitrogen cycle, and your tank will continue to be cloudy and smelly. You can increase the frequency of water changes, just don’t clean the filter.

Also, if you haven’t already, add Purigen to your filter instead of carbon. It greatly improves water clarity and lasts much longer. It can be recharged but I have had issues doing that, so I change it every 2 to 3 months (whenever the beads turn dark brown).

I’ve had an ammonia spike at some point in the past anyways I used this. It worked well for me as I didn’t have a spare tank back then.

Purigen

I only used it once, you might want to research it a little first. I can’t quite remember much about it. Only that I put it in my canister and next day ammonia was all gone. It worked incredibly fast.

Use seam chem purgen for tannins, it can clear it up in a week and keep it in there if you want it crystal clear.

http://www.amazon.com/Seachem-165-Purigen-100ml/dp/B0002A5VK2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1371161075&sr=8-3&keywords=seachem

http://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116016506-Purigen-100ml/dp/B0002A5VK2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411659556&sr=8-1&keywords=purigen

this would be a much more affordable and realistic solution, just make sure you use compatible water conditioner with it, any Seachem one should work (prime, neutral regulator, etc)

Purigen comes in two different types: Packed and loose. It helps with the clarity of the water and helps your water quality so it's a favorite among enthusiasts.

If you buy the loose, you'll have to make your own bag or buy a pre-made bag. A lot of people will do this so that they can have back-up bags ready for when they are recharging their Purigen(s). Personally, I have two packed bags since I run only one tank and it's pretty small.

You clean or "recharge" the Purigen when it becomes dark brown or black. You soak it in a mixture of 1:1 water and regular bleach for 24hrs, then soak it in water with 4tbsp of dechlorinator, and then there is a buffering step but I skip it.

In my 6.5 tank it took about 2 years for my Purigen to become a dark-ish brown.

In my small canister I have a couple of filter medias and the Purigen. Don't need anything else too fancy. YMMV as I don't know what kind of tank you are setting up :)

I noticed a similar problem in my aquarium and I found that this helps a lot. Seachem Purigen 100ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002A5VK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_44nYCbE0ACHXB
Basically just put it in the filter and it’ll clear up the cloudiness. For those little specs I’ve noticed topping off the water in the tank so the flow of the water hits the waterline directly can eliminate them.

Just went through my box of fish goods. Probably the best things (which I coincidentally got off Amazon) are random airline accessories. One-way valves, random connectors, suction cups, and a pack of check valves have all proven useful. It's great having extra pieces for whenever you need one. I built a drip acclimation line that I saw for sale somewhere with these parts, I have two DIY sponge + K1 filters that I needed one-way valves for to regulate the airflow, etc. Just so many uses :)

Some other good purchases:

Seachem Purigen

Bubble Counter - for DIY CO2 or DIY in-tank brine shrimp hatchery

Yeast - for DIY CO2

Metal Faucet Adapter - for gravel vacuum that attaches to your sink

Pre-filter Sponge Pack

This is the one I got:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002A5VK2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It was sold directly by Amazon and comes pre-bagged.

My cat's favorite toy up until recently was just a simple cat dancer toy - she'd get excited by it and play with it. However, I recently made a 'toy' out of an old sock stuffed with catnip. She'd also get excited and bat that around the room...

The clincher was tying the sock to the end of the cat dancer - it's simply ridiculous. She'll be panting after chasing it for upwards of twenty minutes, and then meow constantly at me if I stop playing with it! Such a cheap and effective toy!

socks... + cat toy + used book = 20.08

I went a little over :( I too want the snow, snow go away thing to happen.

And, you are very pretty :)

I think you need to buy one of two things for your kitten:

1. Pounce treats because it brings back memories of me when I was young trying to eat them when I was pretending to be a cat! And, I always remember my cats loving those things. BONUS: I seem to recall them actually tasting sort of like chicken.
   
2. The Cat Dancer because you can spend endless hours playing with your cat and watching it chase the fabric around the room!
   

So I think not only do you need these socks but you will enjoy them as much as I would.Your poor kitty would love this I know my cat love playing with toys like this.

This is a collage of my pit bull, Angel, and my cat, Suki (:

~I wub my animals~

We're not too sure about Angel's background, since we rescued him off of the streets, but considering the fact that he was scared of literally EVERYTHING for about 2 months, we think he came from an abusive home. He still struggles with anxiety and fear, but he's getting better and better everyday (: He's so sweet, and loves of snuggle!

Suki, our Calico, was also a rescue. We weren't too sure about bringing her into our house, considering the fact that we already have 2 pit bulls there. But Suki is an odd individual. Somehow, she has managed to become the "alpha" of our group of pets!! The dogs know not to mess with her, because she WILL bite back, lol! But she is affectionate and friendly with all people, and doesn't hide under the bed like other cats. She also goes outside every night and hunts for us! It's kind of disgusting, but adorable (:

Lol believe it or not, This toy will thoroughly entertain both Angel and Suki!
Thank you for the contest!

CAT DANCER

there are 2 toys that were listed in Amazon as foolproof for this very thing.

One is Cat Dancer

The other one I can't find. It is a wand with a thin wire that cats cannot see, on the end is the worlds tiniest mouse. And they are both ranked incredibly high for cat interaction and interest.

My experience is that they both actually work. My cat is known for watching me play with her toys too

As long the raised voice happens the exact moment he is naughty it shouldn't be a problem. Try this- put him on set meal times and have your mother be the one to feed him. He will associate mom=food. Also have set play time for him and your mother in the evening. Most cats really love the da bird and the cat dancer. She needs to really engage him with the toy. Get him pouncing, leaping, stalking, and running until he is completely tuckered out. This should take anywhere between 5 and 15 minutes. Stick to the schedule and the yowling should stop, unless it is related to something other than your parents coming home. Good luck!

You don't think you have expensive tastes until everything vheap on your wishlists are for the cats! But it's hard to spend more money when they get bored of toys so fast!

1

2

3

Baby Josie is beautiful! I had a Maincoon named Tiki. He lived to be 16! BEST CAT EVAH!!!!

She would love this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006VMN4O

A Mini me for her to snuggle with: http://www.amazon.com/Davey-Maine-Coon-Douglas-Cuddle/dp/B004YSH3Y0

A Kitteh tunnel!!!: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EFMLBW?ie=UTF8&tag=maicoocatnat-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000EFMLBW

Toys: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PVTLWW?ie=UTF8&tag=maicoocatnat-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000PVTLWW

Toys: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IYSAIW?ie=UTF8&tag=maicoocatnat-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000IYSAIW

Toys: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000M1B7I6?ie=UTF8&tag=maicoocatnat-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000M1B7I6

And more toys: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DHV16?ie=UTF8&tag=maicoocatnat-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0002DHV16

Maincoons LOVE to play and have that kitten play aspect to them for YEARS!!!Mine loved balls, and a good old laser pointer was the best thing ever. He would get running after that red dot, and couldn't stop well on our hardwood floors and would slide in walls....

Oh and a cat bed on top of the Fridge would be great for your girl. Tiki always slept on top of the fridge :)

Looks similar to the one I bought. I started off with storing it in the linen closet after playtime, now I can't open my linen closet without one (or both) of my cats climbing the shelves looking for the toy. Up from a dead sleep at the slightest cracking of that door. Even the super lazy one acts like she's on crack when it comes out.

My cat loves these things. Just don't leave them out without supervision, because he might try to eat the ribbon.

I recommend this brand from Amazon. For 40LBs, the price is currently at $13.10. It goes on a price "sale" often and the price varies a bit from time to time.

Precious Cat Ultra Premium Clumping Cat Litter
https://www.amazon.com/Precious-Cat-Premium-Clumping-Litter/dp/B0009X29WK

The litter does not smell and clumps wonderfully. The best part is for the benefit of the cat--when the cat kicks up the litter too energetically, there isn't a dust storm!

Crazy cat lady here, I have four in my apartment. Unless they are lying to me, everyone that comes over is always shocked I have cats because it doesn't smell like it "should". I have two air purifiers in the house these and I have this one that sits directly on top of the litter box. I've had my four cats around 10 years and also fostered probably about... 30. So I feel like I've tried it all and I finally have a good ritual and set up. I use this litter box because it's big and tall which they prefer but also easy to get inside when it's time to clean. I use this track mat because so far it's really done the best to keep the litter from traveling far from the box. And like you, I clean it 2-3 times a day. The litter that is. I use this litter which is LIGHT YEARS better than anything else I've ever used. One of my cats also has horrible allergies and this is the one litter I've found that she doesn't react to. It also doesn't dust so you don't have to constantly feel like poofs of litter are showing up around the house or on the carpet or furniture. I also vacuum every single day. I have one vacuum I use for the floor where there may be litter tracked and another I use that never touches litter. I think this is fairly important. This vacuum honestly is the best I've found for hair. Miracle worker. Unless you can afford the Dyson Animal. I also have this spray that I'll use for my carpet and fabric once a month or so and I feel like it makes a huge difference. And then lastly I also keep windows open whenever I can and I have this diffuser and put oil in it a few times a week and let it run for a bit, plus it looks cool with the lights :) Oh! and one last thing that I think is great... put one of those cardboard scratch pads near the litter box so the cat has to step over it to get anywhere else. Like off the track mat but near the box. I do this and all the cats inevitably use the scratch pad for fun when walking by it but I'm convinced it also cleans their paws from any litter left over before they start walking around the rest of the house!

We could really use some cat litter. I think the why is kinda self explanatory. Plus my fiance lost his job last week and the week before that car issues basically wiped out our savings. He's looking for a new job now and still waiting for unemployment to kick in which always takes forever (gotta love New York state).

Edit: fixed typo.

I need this for my smelly kitties.

Buy a litter box, fill it with this. Put the litter box in your basement or a closet and scoop out the clumps every day or two. Be sure to carry the cat to the litter box several times during the first few days so he remembers where it is. I go through one of these bags of litter every two to three months.

If you have any other pets, keep the cat SEPARATED from other animals for 1-2 weeks while exchanging scents (with blankets/toys/etc.). The #1 thing cats don't do well with is change.

Total cost of ownership of a cat all depends on food. My cat eats a wet/dry mix of Wellness grain-free and Royal Canin Special 33. It's much healther than what most people feed their cat, so it's a more expensive. I'd say about $40/month. Cheap cat food will cost much less, probably around $20/mo (fancy feast classic). I'd recommend WET food over dry, dry food contains lots of grains which are NOT good or natural for cats (cats are like lions, meat-eaters!). Long term dry food will cause kidney problems.

If you decide to keep one, take it to the vet and get him tested/vaccinated/medicated ASAP. You can call the vet before hand to see what the cost will be. Take two of them!! Cats do really well with a brother/sister to play with.

precious cat

Hugs!

Now I have that song stuck in my head. I love that song.

We've had financial problems lately and can't afford some things we need. I need this acid reducer because it would help with pain, or cat litter because we have 3 cats, or anything else from my wishlists. Or a giftcard that I can use toward food. If I order food myself, I can get the 15% Subscribe and Save discount, plus use any digital coupons.

Thanks for your contest :)

Forget about your worries and your strifes

Frankly, I'd love a couple bags of Precious Cat Ultra Premium Clumping Cat Litter ;)

I have my kitty set up in the guest room. I too HAVE to conceal the litter box because my dogs love to have a kitty poop snack and they dig into the litter and make a huge mess on top of everything. The solution was to get two LACK side tables from ikea (7 dollars each) and cover them with fabric on all sides with a single opening large enough for Lily to fit through. Underneath, there is a high walled litter pan and we are using Precious Cat as our litter. It is completely odorless and low dust. I only start to smell the poopies if I slack on cleaning it for 2-3 days (I know! sorry)

Whenever we have a guest over, which is rare any way, I simply move the litter box to our bedroom. The tables stay in the guest room as part of the decor and they don't even realize it was a cat toilet moments ago. And when we have people over that aren't sleeping, I can easily close the door and it's completely out of sight. I can even leave the cat in there and she'll be perfectly happy until the guests go away. Good luck!

aquarium cycling is the buildup of bacteria that convert ammonia and nitrite (poisonous) into non toxic nitrate. The bacteria mainly live in your filter media that you do not have because you don't have a filter. The nitrogen cycle is the single most important part about fish keeping. Daily water changes can be stressful. Do you keep him in the tank while changing the water or cup him? Sponge filters are good filter because they have an adjustable flow, but any filter appropriately sized for your tank can be baffled (slowing rate of water output). Whatever filter you get remove any carbon and replace it with biomedia such as seachem matrix or ceramic rings. How many gallons is your tank? Bettas need at least 2.5 gallons but the bigger the better because it will help keep your parameters stable. Also test strips are not that accurate so I would highly suggest getting the liquid test kit. Here are the links for everything I recommend. I hope your guy starts healing soon! Fin rot's best treatment is clean warm water. Maybe lay off the medicines for now because they can be harsh on their organs.
http://fins.actwin.com/mirror/begin-cycling.html
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f12/fish-in-cycling-step-over-into-the-dark-side-176446.html
http://www.amazon.com/Jardin-Aquarium-Cylinder-Sponge-Filter/dp/B005LMQCW2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1425449975&sr=8-2&keywords=sponge+filter
http://www.amazon.com/Matrix-500-mL-7-1-oz/dp/B004PBD4J4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1425449994&sr=8-4&keywords=biomedia
http://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater-Master-Test-Kit/dp/B000255NCI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425450046&sr=8-1&keywords=api+liquid+test+kit

You're looking at my basic setup as is, but here's my whole setup, as I said in another thread

>I use a Tetra Whisper 10-Gallon air pump, with one check valve to prevent back flow, going into a 4-way gang valve, hooked up to three mini cyclinder sponge filters. The 4th output on the gang valve is closed.

I have 3 large bowls, so you obviously wouldn't need a 4 way gang valve, but it wouldn't hurt you. Just keep 3 closed and use the 4th to adjust the amount of air you want coming through. You could also run 2 smaller filters in opposite corners if you want. I'm probably going to run smaller filters down the road, because the one's I bought are quite large, and look giant because they're magnified by the shape of my bowls. The one you linked to is a little smaller than mine, so I wish I'd purchased those. Haha.

As far as algae, it's not a problem I've ever had. I've only been running filters for less than 2 months though, so I wouldn't attribute my lack of algae to my filter setup.

Here is the mobile version of your link

I've seen people with 5 gallon have like 150+, space gets tight a little tighter than what I like. And you have to feed a lot lmao. If you think you are too tight for space you can always sell extra shrimp after what ever number you are comfortable keeping.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005LMQCW2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3/137-0546805-6866710?ie=UTF8&qid=1505017583&sr=8-3&keywords=mini+sponge+filter&dpPl=1&dpID=41BWPVxOqPL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073WWWQDR/ref=mp_s_a_1_62?ie=UTF8&qid=1505018080&sr=8-62&keywords=sponge+filter&dpPl=1&dpID=4100umYfyYL&ref=plSrch

Both these should fit

I use this one

It's been really reliable so far. You can find different makes and models of similarly styled ones, but this specific brand is the only one I can vouch for.

Sounds good, thanks for the advice! Yeah, my betta has been a total stud through the Ick infection, the drastic increase in temperature and now the ammonia. I removed just the carbon and left the other filter media- it was a big sac of carbon. It is an Azoo Mignon Palm filter. I will keep up with water changes until the beneficial bacteria build up and reduce feeding in the mean time.

I've used this HOB filter with a nano tank.

Here's a great filter and here's a great heater for that tank. I would try changing 0.5 - 1 gallon of water once a week once your tank is cycled. Keep an eye on the test results and adjust your water change routine based on what keeps your levels low enough. Make sure you add water treatment (Prime) to that tap water before you add it to the tank.

This Azoo Mignon 60 is a great little filter: https://www.amazon.ca/Azoo-AZ13097-AZOO-Mignon-Filter/dp/B005VEWCMO I'm using it on my 10L vase. It's a HOB so takes up less tank space than internal or air filters. It has adjustable flow so you can turn it down if you find there's too much current.

You have tons of people already going at you with the "just go for the 5 gallon" so I won't bother with that (2.5 gallon is still perfectly acceptable. I have a 1.5 gallon with a happy betta). Anyways, for filter you have a few options. I've used all of these filters as well.

Finnex Pure-5 Power Filter: https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Pure-5-Power-Aquarium-Filter/dp/B004NP66M4

One of the very best filters for small set ups. A definite feature you'll love is the adjustable flow it has. Make sure to baffle it up if necessary. I personally use this one the most in my tanks.

AZOO Mignon Filter 60: https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO

An amazing filter that is very quiet and very powerful. Comes with a pre filter as well so your betta's fin will be super safe. Baffle it up though since it is quite powerful but it's also adjustable.

Fluval Nano Filter: https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A455-Nano-Aquarium-Filter/dp/B004BZKDZC

This one is for when you do get a 5 gallon or bigger. This one is an amazing filter if you are willing to do some DIY on it. One of the major problems is the impeller is sometimes loose in some units and you'll have to wrap some teflon tape on it. If this bothers you, I'd skip this one but this is seriously a great filter.

Another option for filters is a sponge filter which is always cheap and readily available/easily made.

For heaters, you have a few options as well but I'll just list the ones I usually use. NOTE: I personally buy new heaters every year because the possibility of overheating still exists.

Tetra HT-50: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-26447-Submersible-Aquarium-50-Watt/dp/B000OQO69Q

Don't let the 50 watt scare you because this one is probably one of the best and trusted non-adjustable heater. It is non-adjustable though so it will keep it at around 24-26°C.

Hydor Original Theo: https://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Submersible-Glass-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B0006JLPG8

One of the most trusted adjustable heaters. Useful for when you need to raise the temperature of your water. I haven't really used this one as much as the Tetra one but it does the job for me.

XiLong Heater: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-Heater-Fish-Tank-Adjustable-25-50-100-200-300-Pretty-Aquarium-Submersible-/261412637763

This one may seem like a sketchy buy but I honestly prefer it over the Hydor Original Theo. I use this for my 5 gallon and it keeps the temperature very very stable. Cheap as hell too.

I have a 5 gallon I’m selling with a light, heater, and HOB filter for $60 so definitely put your zip code! But before I upgraded my tank I had a simple sponge filter with air pump from amazon, a Nicrew light, and driftwood from a local store that cost me $10... in total my first set up was... air pump , sponge filter , Nicrew light (that was $14 when I got it...) and the tank $10, lid $10, driftwood $10= about $8”:) or you can do this HOB heater

Oh and for plants in this sub, there’s tons of people that sell good, tons of plants, good priced! I got TONS OF PLANTS for $20-$30 from bquad. But he isn’t the only one

im also looking for a 3gal filter, this was recommended many times when i asked around http://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO

this finnex one is tempting http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Pure-5-Power-Aquarium-Filter/dp/B004NP66M4

If you want the best tank you could get an Ultum 25C. For lights you could use a Chihiros A-series. I use a 25 cm single color on my 5 gallon Fluval Chi and it does a pretty good job lighting things. Red plants turn red. Other plants grow quick. I think you'd be able to grow monte carlo, Marisilea minuta, or S. repens with very few issues. For substrate you could use Miracle Grow Organic Potting Mix capped with gravel. It's cheap and grows plants really well. The Azoo Mignon 60 would work well for the filter. I use it on a 2.5 gallon, but it would work decently on a 5 gallon. With this setup you're looking at $120 before buying plants. This is more than a Spec V. I'd take this over a Spec V though.

Thanks! Here's the filter i use: http://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO
When i first got it, it made a terrible rattling noise at first but after resetting some of the pieces it's been great and is really quiet now. It's also blends in well. I would recommend it!

I got an AZOO Mignon. It works okay. Definitely better than the crap thing it came with. I Velcro'd the light to the back of the tank because it was wicking water out of the tank.

The smaller Tetra filters tend to be on the louder side.

You can use this nano HOB on your 3 gallon, and it will also work when you upgrade to the 5 gallon.

You can read the top review for baffling the output for a 3 gallon betta tank, but the short of it is to change the adjustable flow to it's minimum and baffle with extra sponge.

I had one in my 5-gallon tank at one point, but my betta HATED it. It worked well enough and was super quiet, but he despised it. It's surprisingly powerful for its size, for a 3-gallon you'd have to baffle the output and/or shove some sponge in the bottom to make sure his fins don't get sucked into in input. It takes up a surprising amount of space in the tank, too, and my guy used to swim behind it (there's a small space between the filter and suction cup) and get stuck.

Personally, I think it's more trouble than it's worth. I replaced mine with the Azoo Palm Filter and my betta's been much happier.

You could do this filter. I haven't used it myself, but many people use it on the smaller tanks. It should be perfect for a 3 gallon.

This is azoo filter. It's very good for small tanks and creates little to no current. I don't want my shrimpies to be pushed around. :)

Thanks! I planted dwarf hairgrass, pearlweed, anubias petite nana, Echinodorus Aflame, and some random moss that started growing. I have pretty thick layer of substrate (about 50mm / 2in) that is a mix of Fluval Stratum and some ADA amazonia. The tank set-up is a UNS 4.6 gallon, azoo mignon 60 HOB filter, asta 20 LED, and a paintball tank CO2 setup. I plan to add a small canister filter, but the HOB is doing alright for now.

There are several assorted shrimp in the tank, but Stuart seems to ignore them so far.

links

Light: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07236CXBQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Tank:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXFINHJ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CO2 Regulator and parts:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XW16L4P/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009G68LTG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004M49QDC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078KPCLMY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0100UO72G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Filter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005VEWCMO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Strange sub to post this in, maybe better suited to /r/Aquariums

Regardless, here's 2 I would recommend that come with nice filters and lights built in.

https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Spec-Aquarium-5-Gallon-Black/dp/B0089E5VLC

https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-6-Gallon-Aquarium-21-LED-Light/dp/B005WEDVIM

I read a wiki on the Walstad Method, seems surprising straight forward and simple if you're careful during the initial setup and have patience.

I'm using the stock lighting that came with each tank. I can't seem to find any details on the Fluval 25g Accent Tank other than "energy-efficient LED lighting system for stunning day or night lighting".

My betta tank is the Fluval Spec V but it's also lacking detailed info on the light. It just says "Powerful 37 LED Lighting System".

Can anything go horribly wrong if I add root tabs, or should I keep my eyes open for any particular warning signs after I add them?

The plants I have now seem to do well and while some leaves or stems die from time to time I see new growth pretty regularly.

The Fluval Chi might be a good tank, but might be more difficult to find a good light to fit it.

I'd recommend the ADA substrate system. It's more expensive than Fluval but ultimately worth it.

As for a filter, the tank I've suggested has one built in, but if you don't go for that, then YES! If you've got critters in it, filter the water. (Also get a heater!)

I'm currently running a Fluval Spec 19L using a combination of this substrate, along with the power sand and some other substrate additives (all sold on that site). I'm growing HC Cuba (dwarf baby tears) and it's doing well with plentiful CO2 using one of these and lots of light with two of these.

I'd get a Fluval Spec V. It's a 5 gallon all in one. It will be good for a single betta.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Spec-Aquarium-5-Gallon-Black/dp/B0089E5VLC/ref=sr_1_2?gclid=CjwKCAjw04vpBRB3EiwA0Iieasb_yECQmx7hihQMBdHwNu5-gb419jVAYSHApZGrpSVqXhK68zMAHBoC5YgQAvD_BwE&hvadid=178532195030&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1014221&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=8640727061942101560&hvtargid=kwd-69101103695&hydadcr=16135_9891773&keywords=fluval+spec+v+aquarium+kit+5-gallon&qid=1562629939&s=gateway&sr=8-2

Sorry, that tank would be pretty crappy for a betta, due to the shape and the volume.

I would highly recommend the Fluval Spec V if you can afford it. It has more swimming space than other 5 gallon kits, and the quality of the light and filter is excellent.

Ikr!!! You could get a Fluval Spec and still have some money for decoration!!

Fluval Spec V.

It was what was most recommended here when I asked about 5 gallons. It seems to go on sale fairly often depending where you look, but I got it from Amazon a little cheaper than what it's listed at now about 2 weeks ago.

> The set up includes a filter, light, and cover, and runs $80.

$80 for a 3.5 gallon? What a con, lol. My 5.5 was $27 on sale but its base price wasn't $80 and it had all that stuff. The stock light is meh but it grows my plants. If you want to spend $80, get this instead. For $80 or less you can get a bigger tank with filter/light/cover.. heck, you can get a 10 gallon for that much. Is the 3.5 at the store? If so he wants commission off that sale lol.

I'd need to know where you live to say about your tap water. I've used tap water in every west coast state and the Cali water tastes rancid but my boy is doing just fine on it. I use this to condition the water. BTW don't buy betta-specific conditions, they're smaller volumes for more money but do the same things. I couldn't say personally if bottled water is an improvement, having no experience with it, but the real problem is you have no filter.

Here's /r/aquariums article about cycling. It's fishless which is the ideal but the concept is there. With fish in you need to water change every day or two. Which is why you need the API master test kit so you can check the levels.

I'd imagine a couple months before he shows improvement since you're fish-in cycling so the water quality won't be top notch. A lot of bettas show fast improvements, though, once they get out of tiny, no-filter cups. We'd need a pic to determine if he's got fin rot or anything else.

Hey, thanks for replying.

The betta I'm caring for now has a lot of personality...he loves to pace the front of the 10g, weaving through the plants. I guess each one is different, but maybe something like this tank would encourage that behavior. I really want a very small footprint though, which is what attracted me to the compact cube design. I just worry that there's not enough space for really swimming in it, you know?

Hello! The tetra 3 gal is the best choice imo of the 3. If you don't want to go all out, then this hood and basic tank. Petsmart has small 5 lb bags of white or black sand if you don't want to do gravel and depending on what all you will have in you tank, I've found sand to be pretty easy to deal with when cleaning tanks. I'm a big fan of Hydor heaters and I've heard a lot of good reviews on Eheim too.

In all honesty, if you are able to go just a little bit bigger, I'd suggest a Fluval Spec V. I have 3 tanks and 2 of them are the Spec V's. They're sleek, have a nice pump that has not only adjustable flow, but has a directional nozzle, you can fit a Hydor heater next to the outtake tubing, and already has a light. If you get that with a heater, you can take a small bag of sand, the Sponge Bob pineapple home, some colorful silk plants, and a moss ball or two you'd be all set as a beginner and not have it take up much more room. If you do get a snail, perhaps your son would name it Gary? (the snail in Spongebob? haha not necessary but it is possible to have a vacuum to eat any leftovers the betta doesn't eat.)

Just remember that if you move a fish tank, you'll want to drain out some of the water to make moving easier as well as safer. I take it this will be pretty sudden so a fishless cycling won't really be a thing so please make sure to have betta water conditioner.

Good luck!

something like this works great. Just google DIY CO2 mixes, get 2 2L pop bottles, and make the mixture. If you get a good one it can last like 2-3 weeks which is pretty much the same as these ones, tho they are a bit of a pain to set up.

C02 Kit

Bubble Counter

Diffuser

You also need funnels to get everything into the soda bottles, a few check valves to prevent backflow. The reaction uses baking soda and citric acid, I got both from the market so thy are food grade.

Here's what i got.

http://www.amazon.com/DIY-CO2-Aquarium-Plant-System/dp/B008CUZJF6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

Also check this video out from Joey, explains everything you need to know.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1JzvfHO31Ug

I bought the fluval mini kit and wasn't happy with it at all. DIY CO2 kits work way better for not a lot more initial cost. Something like this may be better suited to your needs: https://www.amazon.com/DIY-CO2-Aquarium-Plant-System/dp/B008CUZJF6

https://www.amazon.com/DIY-CO2-Aquarium-Plant-System/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=diy+co2+aquarium&qid=1551222345&s=gateway&sr=8-5

You could grab this diy co2 system

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=asc_df_B008CUZJF65081095/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B008CUZJF6&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167116240456&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5207187190723081390&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9061078&hvtargid=pla-305618839130

(Apologies, I don't know how to shorten urls)

And run it with citric acid and baking soda (works better than yeast and doesn't have that yeasty odor)

And also look into EI fert dosing.

You could also grab a few floater plants (not duckweed) to compete with the algae for nutrients, and just remember to scoop out extra ones as they grow. I keep ~5 floaters in my 5 gallon and toss extras in the trash on water change day.

Edit: this will keep you way under $100 even after you buy the kit, an atomizer, ferts and a pH drop checker and should help you combat the algae growth until you can purchase a regulator for pressurized co2.

Yup thats exactly what happeneds.

I learned about it from this video here by Aquarium Co Op

https://youtu.be/VfAJ3ITS3Nw

I bought a DIY Co2 kit from amazon that uses vinegar and baking soda.

https://www.amazon.ca/ZJchao-DIY-Aquarium-Plant-System/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=diy+co2&qid=1571041282&sr=8-3

Hope that helps :)

The prices are different from when I ordered them but here's my exact setup!

Here's the co2 system

This is the bubble counter I have

Here's the diffuser I got but there's cheaper options as well

The nice thing about a small tank is I only need about 3-4 bubbles per second so my diy co2 setup can last almost three weeks which marks the time I do a gravel vac and dose with flourish. I keep the co2 running 24/7 and turn on a bubbler 15 mins before I turn the lights off, and turn the bubbler off 15 minutes before I turn the lights on.

This is what I used for my diy co2 setup:
I bought this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CUZJF6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and followed the direction in this link (http://www.co2supermarket.co.uk/diy-co2-kit-setup-instructions-guide-6.html)

I've been using a cheap diy co2 system. This one. It's ok, you just need to buy citric acid (also on Amazon) and baking soda and maintain it about once a week + or -.

I've been running the 24/7 on my 55 for a couple months now. If you don't plan to do CO2, it will be far too much light (at least in 24/7 mode). I was battling hair algae for the first couple weeks until I started CO2. If you raise it up a bit, you may be OK.

I don't see much of a problem going with a slightly Shorter light. You may have slightly less growth on the sides, but I doubt it will be noticeable beyond what full length would give you.

Edit: my CO2 I currently run: DIY generator with bubble counter/diffuser. You need citric acid (canning area of grocery store) every couple of weeks with some baking soda. My indicator shows I can get plenty at about 1 bubble per second. I will likely upgrade to a pressurized system later, just wanted to test drive CO2 before investing too much money.

Yes of course. I'm using this kit that's 15 bucks on Amazon.

Basic concept is you have baking soda in one bottle and citric acid in another. Once you seal up the system you push some acid into the other bottle and keep doing that until you build up some pressurized CO2. After you open the valve and it starts flowing into your tank, the pressure behind the acid will slowly push more of it as needed into the reaction chamber. This allows for you to turn the system off which is not something you can't do with the yeast/sugar method.


I like this method so far, but it does have drawbacks. Some people struggle to build up enough pressure for ceramic diffusers to function correctly. With those coke bottles I can get up to 2 bar without really fearing that they'll pop, but I wasn't sure if even that would be enough. Instead, I chose to route it into a small pump on the right side there and I get great diffusion. The problem with the first time I did that was I didn't have a bubble counter so I was just using the end of the hose to count. Once I had it at a bubble a second, I attached it to the pump, but the lower pressure in there just slurped up all the CO2 before I noticed. Basically used 2 weeks of reactants in an hour lol. I have a bubble counter, check valve, drop checker, and longer tubing coming on Wednesday. (sorry for this wall of text, I just got started and couldn't stop)

swords can get bigger, but you can also keep them trimmed. I personally like to take up as much volume as I can with plants.

The DIY kit I bought came with detailed instructions and was quite reasonable to set up.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CUZJF6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

• Get the bubble counter, black tubing, and diffuser they recommend with it. I also added a check valve and solenoid, but that's getting fancier.

I have a Shepherd and a Lab! Here are some of the hits at our house:

TREATS

• Honestly anything you'd feed to a small dog works for a big dog too. Dogs find several small treats more valuable than one big one.
  
• Plato Wild Caught Baltic Sprat is one of my go-to high value rewards right now. They're dehydrated fish, about 3" long, so they can be fed whole or broken into pieces. They have a less visually offputting product called Hundur's Crunch but it's out of stock indefinitely while they fix a supply chain problem.
  
• Anything flavored like green tripe is also popular at our house. It's stinky and gross and packed with nutrients!
  
• Bully sticks are the primary natural chew around here. They come in all sorts of shapes and sizes. You may have to take the last little bit away so he doesn't swallow it whole.
  
  TOYS
  
  
• The #1 toy right now is the Puller...it's a rubbery ring that can be used for fetching, tug, or frisbee-type tricks. Really versatile toy. I wouldn't let a dog play with it unsupervised though, because the rubber wouldn't stand up to sustained chewing.
  
• Flirt poles are a lot of fun! Here is a really nice premade one, but you can make your own pretty cheap with a horse lunge whip and a stuffy toy tied on the end. Dogs that like to chase birds/squirrels will generally love playing with a flirt pole.
  
• This is a food/toy hybrid, but there are tons of puzzle toys out there to make mealtimes a little more enriching if his dog eats from a bowl. We really like the Bob-a-Lot, Magic Mushroom, and Soda Pup Can Toy (filled with wet food and frozen).
  
• For non-edible chews, my dogs are working on this block of tree root.

6 years old is middle-aged, so she's not going to have as much energy as a younger dog does. She's also going to have some extra skin that may look flabby. Don't make her run if she doesn't want to, since dogs overheat extremely easily. Continue taking her to the dog park and look into different toys like a flirt pole. Don't bother with supplements, everything she needs is in commercial dog food.

https://www.amazon.com/Squishy-Face-Studio-Exercise-Squeaker/dp/B00HFFXEWE

If your puppy is strong for his size, get a large flirt pole meant for bigger breeds. I know our pug Fizgig (1yr)LOVES to play with things meant for bigger dogs. And I honestly think she feels like she's a BIG dog lol.

A cool way of giving your dog a great work out, without overstressing the body, is a flirt pole. I got one for Capone, and he's loving it! As am I!!! It get's him nice and tired, way more than any walk ever would. I've heard you shouldn't run or weight train them until at least 1.5 so that you don't mess up the hips, growth plates, or bone development... I've talked to my vet about it and he says the flirt pole is great!!


Here's what I use

Enjoy!!

Hi there! Yes, I too have a big strong reactive pit. I agree that getting in some work to tire her out physically will go a long way. Will she play fetch in the yard? You could always play some fetch or use a flirt pole to wear her out before going on your joyride. Then she could actually enjoy the joy ride without having pent up energy.

Hm. When you did nosework in the past, did you do it on oils? Formal nosework uses their search/scent instincts, but the prize is usually an essential oil scent (like birch), which doesn't smell at all like any prey animals. If you haven't already done that, it might be worth a shot without the risk of bringing home other animals.

i built it after hearing about them (http://www.make-and-build-dog-stuff.com/homemade-dog-toy.html). if i had it to do again, i'd probably go with a pvc pipe handle so the rope actually goes through the whole handle to allow the toy to be pulled to the end of the pole for storage (and wrap up the excess rope). i've seen similar toys on amazon called "flirt poles" - but they didn't look as sturdy as the one i made. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFFXEWE

here's a video of a play session:
https://youtu.be/-TuZ9iGY8Lo

I got this flirt pole from Amazon when it went on sale. My westies go nuts for it but it doesn't do much for my GSD mix.

Here's a good article with DIY instructions. You can also buy them on Amazon

The dog will be fine. My boyfriend and I just adopted a dog the end of May this year. She is a 1.5 yrs old Malamute/GSD/Lab mix. She has a TON of energy. We are out of the house from 6:50am-5pm and we have a webcam set up to watch her while at work, all she does all day is sleep in the sun. When we are home, we make sure to play with her, take her for a 20-30 mins walk in the morning before we leave, and a 40-60 mins walk in the evenings. We take her to the dog park on the weekends to help her burn off her energy as well.


If you are worried about burning off the energy, we invested in a flirt pole for her, maximum energy burn for her, minimum time/effort for us :)

Your job is absolutely not a problem!

Every dog is different - maybe ask your relatives what their dog likes? One of mine is a serious foodie and the other is more into toys/playtime.

FWIW - I wouldn’t offer it food without making sure they’re ok with it. Some dogs have incredibly sensitive stomachs and are on a specific diet.

Edit - if they have space and you’re down to spend a little, Ive yet to find a dog that doesn’t like a flirt pole. Would also be a way to keep the dog a ways away from you while playing

Squishy Face Studio Flirt Pole V2 Dog Exercise Toy with Blue/Aqua Squeaker Fleece Lure, 36-Inch - V2FP-BS

Do you think your dog would like this? It’s basically a giant cat toy
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HFFXEWE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538696104&sr=8-1&keywords=squishy+face+flirt+pole&dpPl=1&dpID=317xyhwyOtL&ref=plSrch

It sounds crazy but that honestly might not be enough exercise, especially if he's still "run[ning] around bonkers a bit on his own too". I am so glad I ended up with a smaller, semi-lazy dog, because even with four walks a day - adding up to probably around 6 miles total - he sometimes has extra energy to burn and we have to play fetch with him or tire him out with a flirt pole (which he LOVES). I'd be totally screwed if I had a larger, more active dog!

Mine dealt with separation anxiety, too, and it took months to train him to trust that we were coming back. High-value treats and food-dispensing toys helped a lot. It took a little while to figure out what he liked best. He goes nuts for peanut butter and bully sticks, though he chews through the latter in about five minutes so I started blending peanut butter with yogurt and water, piping that into a Kong plugged with a dried liver treat, and shoving the bully stick in the middle and then freezing that all so it takes him longer to get through. He also loves deer antlers, which are long lasting.

We decided to partition off one puppy-proofed room of the house instead of limiting him to just the crate. Now that he's finally used to us being gone he voluntarily goes into the crate to sleep until we get back.

The flirt stick I have is here (which honestly was probably way more sturdy than my dogs need XD), but you can also learn how to make your own here. It's important to limit tugging and chewing on the flirt stick anyway-- the game is the chase!

​

Rally is something you can easily start doing at home if you're interested and if your dog enjoys training with you. You can see signs and descriptions here and there's a great video demonstrating the signs here. If there's a certain exercise you're stuck on, you can generally find videos on YouTube that will teach you how to teach your dog X, Y, or Z. (This is how I learned how to teach my girl fronts.) I use a treat pouch when I train, and my dog gets SO excited when she sees me put the pouch on! In novice, you don't really need any equipment (some signs include cones, but you can either avoid those signs or use other things you have around to act as cones), which makes it a little more accessible than agility off the bat.

I was able to snag an aquarium friendly sponge from the PetCo by me. Yeah just stay away from the carbon lol. If one day you need carbon you can throw a little bit of carbon in a stocking in the filter.

Here is the [light I used] (https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Planted-Automated-Aquarium-Controller/dp/B00U0HMWLI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484759496&sr=8-1&keywords=finnex+planted+plus+24+7).

For square lights, there aren't too many designed like that "as is". The only one that comes to mind is the Radion freshwater LED light, which I don't recommend as I don't think it pushes enough PAR for the price.

Another option is to use a Kessil A360WE Tuna Sun (their freshwater light) and then build a DIY plywood cube around the light cannon (a mini-canopy of sorts) and paint it black or whichever color you like. Make sure you get the W option for the wide optics lens.

If you can forego the square light, I highly recommend Finnex lights (as do many others on this sub). For a tank 16 inches deep but with about 12 inches to substrate, you could probably do a planted+ 24/7 and get close to high light. The 24/7 also can be dimmed if you notice the light is too strong for that depth which to me is invaluable.

Finnex's brightest light is the RAY II, but it may be too much light for a tank with a max depth of 12 inches to substrate.

Finnex makes a great light. The FugeRay Planted Plus or Planted Plus 24/7 would seem to fulfill your needs. They are a bit pricy, but like you said, LEDs are worth it in the long run.

1)https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Planted-Automated-Aquarium-Controller/dp/B00U0HMWLI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466983637&sr=8-1&keywords=finnex+planted+plus+24+7

2)https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GH9HURE/ref=twister_B00HIE3M6U?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

3)http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/145-finnex/189944-finnex-ray-ii-fugeray-par-data.html

Here are links to the two lights I mentioned as well as PAR information for the FugeRay Light. Hope this helps! Cheers.

most expensive stuff was actually the stupid aquasoil.. no one locally was carrying the fluval stratum anymore, so i got stuck dropping 20 bucks per 4 lb bag. I refuse to use eco complete ever again. Most expensive stuff will be the light and the regulator, going LED and larger tank is more expensive at first, but you save money in the long run

• regulator - 119 + 15 shipping i believe (found a coupon code - platned20 i believe) http://www.co2art.co.uk/products/professional-aquarium-co2-dual-stage-regulator-with-advance-swiss-solenoid-and-smc-valve
  
  
• 5lb co2 tank - 90 Filled, 15 dollars per fill (every6-8 months at 2 bubbles per second) - local gas supplier (oxygen supply co. - check welding supply, resturant supply stores, medical supplies)
  
  
• co2 tubing - 10 bucks (not crucial) https://www.amazon.com/AQUATEK-CO2-Proof-Tubing-16-Feet/dp/B008UCOFJW/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1473970795&sr=1-2&keywords=co2+tubing
  
  
• finnex planted+ 24/7: https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Planted-Automated-Aquarium-Controller/dp/B00U0HMWLI/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1473970617&sr=1-2&keywords=finnex%2Bplanted%2Bplus&th=1 You can find alternate lights, i just was torn between this and the fluval aquasky / plant light
  
  
• glass diffuser - 6.00 https://www.amazon.com/S-T-International-Aquarium-Glass-Diffuser/dp/B00I47YVVU/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1473970285&sr=8-10&keywords=co2+diffuser
  
  
• bubble counter 4.00 https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-88g-CO2-Bubble-Counter-Ounces/dp/B004GCPM6K/ref=pd_bxgy_199_2?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004GCPM6K&pd_rd_r=K54X5Q0VQ1P3FTY6E8KV&pd_rd_w=dv9SA&pd_rd_wg=Ef6cf&psc=1&refRID=K54X5Q0VQ1P3FTY6E8KV
  
  
• drop checker - 10
  not convinced at these being accurate at all https://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Dioxide-Monitor-Solution-Indicator/dp/B01C9DGXV0/ref=sr_1_6?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1473971368&sr=1-6&keywords=co2+drop+checker
  
  
• drop checker solution - 8 https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-CO2-Indicator-Solution-0-34/dp/B0052UAL7U/ref=sr_1_9?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1473971368&sr=1-9&keywords=co2+drop+checker
  
  
• canister filter (personal pref) ~100 - https://www.bigalspets.com/eheim-classic-series-canister-filters.html (I got one on sale at petco for 90 bucks - national geographic cf70 uv - discontinued)
  
  
• seachem/ aqua vitro aquasolum - 1lb per gallon roughly @ 19 bucks a 4lb bag
  
  
• decent check valve for co2 - 3 bucks
  
  not going to go into the various other crap i bought so totaling it all up ... (preparing to wince)
  
  ---
  About $575 after tax/shipping/lube.
  
  with the stuff i got that is now in a bin for being crap... tack on about another 150-200 bucks (aquatek regulator/ paintball sytem)

I've heard nothing but good things about finnex lights. I was also in the market for an led strip and researched for a couple days before purchasing one. I went with the finnex planted it has a 24/7 day/night cycle which is awesome in my book.
Heres a link if you're interested:
https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Planted-Automated-Aquarium-Controller/dp/B00U0HMWLI/ref=s9_simh_gw_g199_i1_r?_encoding=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=61C6JK3C2YA922GZZ7ZT&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=a6aaf593-1ba4-4f4e-bdcc-0febe090b8ed&pf_rd_i=desktop

I had the current light on a 36 g bow-front. It didn't produce enough light for my swords and anubias. I switched to the finnex planted plus and had better growth. I'm going to add c02 to my setup this weekend. Hopefully the finnex will be sufficient for a high tech, if not I'll add the current and run two fixtures.

Finnex Planted+ 24/7 Fully Automated Aquarium LED, Controller, 30 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U0HMWLI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rxvxzbRBVY6C4

http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Planted-Automated-Aquarium-Controller/dp/B00U0HMWLI

i would use this one instead. the fugeray wont penetrate fully to the depth of that tank.

http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Planted-Automated-Aquarium-Controller/dp/B00U0HMWLI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1453563046&sr=1-1&keywords=finnex

Low light plants

Really nice light (assuming this is a 29 gallon?)

OK Light

I would say the Finnex Planted+ 24/7. It really looks great, cheap, and does an amazing job for my tank.

https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Planted-Automated-Aquarium-Controller/dp/B00U0HMWLI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478708015&sr=8-1&keywords=finnex+planted+plus+24+7

Oh shoot. But isn't my dog precious? Lol, but it was the wisdom panel from Amazon. Mars Veterinary Wisdom Panel 3.0 Breed Identification DNA Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EHX2BH0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cXGpzbG1BR3ZF

sponge filter check this one out. You need a air pump, and airline, and a check, just connect it. This is similar to the one I have. Bubble come out the top a break the surface and filters your water.

I am getting this one .

It ships from China, so it said that it is getting here between June 10 and July 16....

Never seen that before but it seems kind of redundant. I'd go with something like this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005LMQCW2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1427215003&sr=8-3&keywords=aquarium+sponge+filter&dpPl=1&dpID=41BWPVxOqPL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

That is the style sponge filter I always see breeders using and they seem to know what they are doing. Easy yo clean too just squeeze it out in old tank water.
I have one of these that works fine too and I can alternate cleaning the sponges so I don't upset the bacteria too much.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0056XVF82/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1427215003&sr=8-2&keywords=aquarium+sponge+filter&dpPl=1&dpID=41bviD0w8GL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

I have the 60: https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO

The 150 is also good.

The only reason I went with the 60 is because it's very small, and there is little bioload in the tank it's on.

Sunsun makes smaller rated canisters but they are still bigger than a HOB. This is a small one https://www.amazon.com/TechnToy-HW-603B-3-Stage-External-Canister/dp/B00CC6SCJQ or https://www.amazon.com/SunSun-Hw302-264GPH-Canister-Filter/dp/B00MGX7JXA/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1469731069&sr=1-1&keywords=sunsun+canister+filter

Also like snowmunkey said, aquaclear HOB are also an excellent choice.

I have one of these in my 2.5gal RCS tank, and it's UH MAAAY ZIIIING. Quiet, and if you take a pre filter sponge, cut it one one side, and wedge it under the outflow there will be almost no surface agitation, like this.

I also have this one and it's great too, but it's REALLY powerful despite it's size. You can put a sponge on the outflow to disperse it too though.

Here is the desktop version of your link

The gap between my tank's glass top and the overhead filter isn't big enough for my guy to crawl through, and it's too high in the tank (5 g) for him to reach easily. You may need to cut a different overhead filter intake to size, so that it doesn't reach as far down into the tank for them to climb.

Check craigslist too, I always see tanks on there.

For heaters, I have a bunch of these, and other than the temperature dial not always being accurate, they work just fine.

This filteris good for a 5 gallon, but you might want to replace the sponges with some better filter media.

I feel your pain. I have a 3 gallon nano tank and it took FOREVER to find a filter that won't be too strong for my betta. Finally I found a good one: Mignon 60.

There's a little nob on the intake that will allow you to adjust the flow. In a 5.5 gallon it should be perfect.

If even at the lowest setting you think is too strong, you can also take the black rectangle sponge and put it on the outflow (see the instructions here. I had to do this because my tank is only 3 gallon. But in your 5 gallon I think just the intake nob adjustment will be enough.

Good luck!

I have a Whisper 3i and I plan to throw it in the garbage. Yes it has a low flow, but because it's gravity-fed if your water level gets too low it ceases to function. I have constant problems that if I don't keep the spout right at the water level, it stops flowing. The setup is also really bad if you want to use good filter media. It's hard to put any decent media in there that doesn't also stop the flow of water, or get pushed out. So you're pretty much resigned to using the carbon cartridges it comes with.

I've gone through several air pumps too. I've had to bust them open and fix them several times, and I finally threw them away and replaces with a cheap Topfin brand air pump.

I'm buying this filter next payday and putting it in my 3gal tank. I plan to put new Bio Max media in it alongside the old filter cartridge from the whisper until it's seeded enough to toss the old one out.

1. Not cycled, I'm doing a fish in cycle that's about 2 weeks in. I'm using Seachem Stability to accelerate the process.
   
2. Nitrates: 0, Nitritates: 0, pH: 7.5, GH: 40
   
3. I do about 50%-70% water changes every 2-3 days, and vaccum the substrate every time. I have a bunch of small rocks as substrate.
   
4. Nothing
   
5. I'm using this filter with this sponge and this biomax
   
   Thanks.

>smaller tank will never fully cycle

That's not true at all.

I have one in a 2 gallon cube, with this filter and this heater. Added eco complete, plants, floating plants and the tank pretty much takes care of itself. Plenty of things in there to absorb nitrates.

EDIT: I should add, nobody should start out with a nano tank until you have experience under your belt, just that it is doable. For the most part, beginners should start with a 5-10 gallon for bettas. It's also much easier to find off the shelf equipment for it in stores.

My suggestion:

Tank: Fluval Spec V, ≈90$

Substrate: ADA Amazonia 3l, ≈25$

CO₂: DIY CO₂, ≈free

Plants+Wood: 25$, try r/aquaswap or the RAOK in r/plantedtanks for cheap plants

Stock: 10$ Betta or Red Cherry shrimp. edit: Or bee/tiger shrimp, if the buffering of the soil ends in suitable params.

Fluval Spec V w/ Finnex FugeRay for light. Some cheapo heater that I have a replacement for coming.

Slate bottom w/ a single Java Fern from my Fluval Edge 12G that was getting beat to the light. Water is a little dirty as I just plopped the fern in there.

Well that depends on the size. I think anything under 5 gallons would be easy enough to move, but it will cause the fish stress if you have them. I suggest getting an all in one kit if you're not going to do anything more than some easy plants, shrimp, and a few hearty fish. Spec V is a good talk that's also easy to transport.

Also to answer one if your questions, yes I think a fish tank is a great addition to a classroom or School setting. As long as you can keep it safe where kids wouldn't tamper with it if they felt mischievious.

350$ is more then enough, for a 5 gallon tank. The bigger the tank the less the water quality fluctuates which makes it better for the fish and easier for you to look after. I would advise getting a 5gallon over the 2 gallon.

Read this: http://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles_51/fishless-cycling-article.htm

and this: http://www.firsttankguide.net/fishlesscycle.php

These 2 links are the most important part of keeping an aquarium. Please read at least one of them before you buy any fish!!!

Keep in mind you can buy most of this stuff used on craigslist for 1/3 of the price, but I'll link you some options for new 5 gallon tanks.

http://www.amazon.com/Marina-Style-Glass-Aquarium-Kit/dp/B0035HBFWM/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1412914315&sr=1-4&keywords=5+gallon+aquarium

http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Spec-Aquarium-5-Gallon-Black/dp/B0089E5VLC/ref=sr_1_20?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1412914315&sr=1-20&keywords=5+gallon+aquarium

You will probably need a heater -30$, gavel vacuum -15$, water conditioner -20$, nutrafin or api master test kit -40$. ( I recommend nutrafin over api, if your city's tap water contains chloramine)


Things you can keep in a 5 gallon:

Option 1:

• Siamese fighting fish
  
• 2 nerite snails or 5 amano shrimp( make sure they are over 1/2 when you add them)
  
  
  Option 2:
  
  
• 15 cherry shrimp
  
• 3 nerite snails
  
  
  Option 3:
  
  
• 5 Boraras brigittae they get (.7 inches)
  
• 7 cherry shrimp
  
  Here is some info on boras brigittae: http://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/boraras-brigittae/
  
  
  
  

This is a copy/paste from another thread I did on this tank:

Hey!
So I was in your boat 3 months ago and with the help of some local saltwater guys I got my tank up and running. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nT9FtqEUfgE[1] (looks a lot different now since i did some rescaping... I'll put a new video up soon)
Anywhosel... Don't go cheap... With anything... If you have to buy one piece at a time until you've got all your pieces do that. What I have:

Tank: http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Spec-Aquarium-5-Gallon-Black/dp/B0089E5VLC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392354430&sr=8-1&keywords=fluval+spec+5[2]

Lights: http://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-Marine-Aquarium-24-Inch/dp/B00GFTK7CQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1392354461&sr=8-4&keywords=orbit+usa+lights[3]

Pump: http://www.amazon.com/Marineland-Mini-Jet-Powerhead-VERSION-Misc/dp/B009LN1HWW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1392354739&sr=1-1&keywords=mini+jet+606[4]

Powerhead: http://www.amazon.com/EcoTech-Marine-VorTech-Propeller-Aquarium/dp/B003HLO636/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392354535&sr=8-1&keywords=vortech+mp10[5]

Gravity Tester: http://www.amazon.com/Salinity-Refractometer-Aquarium-Seawater-Agriculture/dp/B005ES6MOQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1392354641&sr=1-1&keywords=Refractometer[6]

Glass Cleaner: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0061PIRGW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=20GUT5T0T21NZ&coliid=I1FAC5MICMTB5T[7]

I had freshwater fish before the saltwater and it's wayyy more maintenance but way more fun. You will want to abandon the freshwater the moment you get the saltwater up and running.

https://smile.amazon.com/Fluval-Spec-Aquarium-5-Gallon-Black/dp/B0089E5VLC

Be patient and you can find them for less, I got mine for around $50, and it's the new version not the old version, the only real difference is the light is much better on the new one. If it comes in a white box it's the old version, black box is the new version, so if you find one locally that is how to tell.

Kind of like the Fluval Spec V idea?

http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Spec-Aquarium-5-Gallon-Black/dp/B0089E5VLC

Here is the desktop version of your link