(Part 4) Best pet supplies according to redditors
We found 42,736 Reddit comments discussing the best pet supplies. We ranked the 13,159 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 61-80. You can also go back to the previous section.
Get him a water fountain. Cats don't like drinking from still water. I own a raindrop one for my cats, they love it.
Edit: For those interested, I use this one myself.
Bought one on Amazon for like $5, same model. The second I stuck it on the wall my cat was all over that bad boy for like 10min.
Edit: Link on Amazon for those wanting to buy it-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D3NI2PG?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
They can have catnip in them, so it might not just be enjoying the scratching.
It's a corner brush.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D3NI2PG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525890383&sr=8-1&keywords=catit+corner+brush&dpPl=1&dpID=41z71R5UluL&ref=plSrch
$60 - $390
Product Link: https://www.amazon.com/EcoSphere-Closed-Aquatic-Ecosystem-Sphere/dp/B005IZOB5M/
PM the OP. i'm sure that's how other people are getting the address.
Is this a tree?
That is my Bertram! Catit Senses 2.0 Self Groomer
I would recommend getting additional wall stickies, it did not stay on the wall with the ones provided.
Try this link
ATF begs to differ, but yeah, doggy earpro exists and if they're with you they should probably have it. Note, getting them to wear it is probably a whole nother issue.
BOOM: Catit Senses 2.0 Self Groomer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3NI2PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5t08AbVDJPRA6
Your questions aren't silly! It's great that you're thinking about how you can make you both comfortable before you dive into a new situation. Always set yourself up for success! :)
> do I buy a litter box/food/scratch-post before I plan to bring a cat home?
That's generally a good idea, yes. Means less stress for both of you as you're scrambling to get everything ready for him. You might ask the shelter what food the cat has been eating, as cats can get an upset tummy when switching brands/types. Not a big deal, but he will have poops that are a bit stinkier/liquidier than normal poops. That should alleviate within the week. You can lessen the tummy troubles by doing a more gradual change, mixing the food he is currently on with the food he will be on more and more, until he is eating what you want him on. But you can honestly just do the change, too, and just deal with the sadpoops for a little while.
I suggest a couple of different scratching posts, if you have the space! Cats like having options, like a horizontal post and a vertical one. Cats also like being high up, so if you can swing a tall post with platforms, he will probably like that.
Get two litter boxes! A lot of people don't realize it, but the rule of thumb for number of litters you should have is NumberOfCats + 1. So, 1 cat + 1 = 2 boxes. Clean them often. Cats are very clean creatures (especially compared to dogs) and are MUCH more likely to have accidents when they feel they do not have a better option than peeing in your bed. That's not their fault. You wouldn't want to step on your own pee/poop either! If you have problems with litter getting kicked out of the box, a litter mat can be helpful.
> Do I need to buy a carrier for the cat?
Yep. You'll eventually need to take him to a vet in all likelihood, and a carrier will make that so much easier, as most cats despise the car. I recommend a hard carrier. The softer ones seem nicer in general, but the hard carriers are easier to clean out, and you never know how a cat will be in the car until... well. They're in it. One of our cats poops and pees every. single. time. So he always gets the hard carrier.
> Should I contact a vet before I get the cat?
The shelter might require you to have a vet already, so I'd probably at least pick one out from google search. They might require you to go get a checkup, but probably not. That's more of a rescue thing, I think. Most shelters have their own in-house vet, so it's not really necessary. Don't be afraid to contact the shelter if he seems to be coughing and wheezing. Upper respiratory infections are very common in shelter environments due to the crowded nature of them, but they are also very treatable, and the shelter will be able to give you medication for him.
> How do I train a cat?
Someone mentioned Jackson Galaxy, who I generally agree is pretty good for training if you have some problems. But most of the time, cats are pretty out-of-the-box ready pets. That is to say, if you have an environment that is good for cats (where you let them have some space, where you don't make a huge amount of loud noise, where they aren't prodded and poked at constantly), they generally don't need training. We've fostered tiny kittens that automatically knew how to use the litter box. We also have boy cats who were not fixed until well into adulthood and have never had problems spraying.
It's instinct to go in the box, especially once they're fixed and don't need to mark territory really.
> For those of you who own a cat/cats, any advice for this first-timer?
Give both of you time to get to know each other. Don't force it. He will come to you, given time and space, and you'll be able to cultivate a better relationship built on trust and mutual respect if he knows that you won't force him to do things that he doesn't want to do (especially at first--think about it like building a friendship with a person; you would trust your friends to do things that you would never trust a stranger to do, and it's the same for him).
Cooing and gentle words are generally pretty good for coaxing, as is letting him smell your hand/something that smells like you before you approach for pets. Think about it like introducing yourself. You wouldn't go up to someone you didn't know well and just touch them without at least saying hi.
Every cat I have ever known, male or female, fixed or not, will pee in a pile of anything if it is left long enough. They see it as 'trash,' and I think it just registers as litter. So, if you are the type to leave clothes on the floor... I would try to stop that.
Keep nails trimmed. Scratching posts are for sharpening nails, which is an instinct that they have to fulfill, and you're giving them an outlet for. Some people think it's for 'filing' the nails down, but it's not. It's for keeping them sharp enough to get prey. You'll have to trim them.
And this is just my own personal opinion, but... young--but not kitten--boy cats are best for first timers. I have one girl, and I absolutely adore her, but she is very high maintenance/prissy/touchy, whereas my three boys are all pretty chill. Each cat is different though, so obviously your mileage may vary! It's just something I've noticed in general in my time of owning and fostering cats, that boys are more laid back/forgiving than girls (and thus I think a little easier for a first timer). Young adults are also great for first timers because you have less accidents (though that's generally not a big concern anyway) and they're more able to be on their own for longer periods of time. Older adults/seniors are great too if you want a really, really chill, more stand-offish cat, or if you want a cat that you'll have for <10 years, but if you want a little more energy and time, a cat that's about 1-2 years old is a GREAT way to go.
Some toys that are great for cats include the classic laser pointer, the feather toy, catnip toys, and crinkle balls.
Cats prefer to drink away from where they eat, so place his food bowl and his water bowl apart from one another! Some cats also prefer running water to still water, so if you notice your cat likes drinking out of the faucet (or if you just want to spoil your cat like I spoil mine...) you can get a water fountain for him!
Finally, if it's not working out for some reason, like your personalities just don't mesh well... take him back. I know it sounds hard, but it's best for him if he is in an environment where he is understood and his needs are met. There's no sense in forcing both of you to be miserable. Some shelters let you do a foster-to-adopt sort of thing, where you sort of try each other out for a bit. I like this option, because you hope for the best, but it feels a little bit easier to tap out if you need to. Either way, there's no shame in tapping out. Sometimes things just don't work the way you thought they would.
Sorry for the novel, but I wanted to be as thorough as I could. My parents recently got their first cat, and it's been... an ordeal for them, getting used to it.
It's great that you have some experience with cats though, so I think you'll be fine! Seriously, cats are sort of the next level up from a goldfish as far as easiness. Should be fine.
I hope you and your new furbaby are super, super happy together! :)
Source: https://www.amazon.com/Catit-Senses-2-0-Self-Groomer/dp/B00D3NI2PG
Price: $9.99
To be honest I am not entirely sure what effects water hardness would have on skin or hair but apparently yes, Japan's water is really soft. So soft in fact that there are articles about how soft it is lol. NYC doesn't disclose the hardness of their water but some users say it's soft. But yeah, Japanese water seems superior!!
Also if you want you can test your tap water's hardness with this kit. It's meant for aquariums but I would test tap water for customers a lot. The general hardness test is the one that matters the most. Carbonate hardness is only an issue if you're a fish.
I'm allergic to cats, so I'll share a couple of things that helped me live with two cats for several years.
Wash them every week or so, not because cats need baths every week, but because it will greatly reduce the amount of allergens deposited on furniture, the floor, and in the air. I used a mild puppy/kitten shampoo for mine, or sometimes even johnson & johnson's no more tears shampoo.
Get a furminator. There are also off-brands. It's not battery operated or anything, but it's the only grooming tool/brush I needed or used.
If he can keep them out of his bedroom, that would be ideal.
If he can afford it, whether he has carpet or hardwood, a roomba is absolutely wonderful. It'll self vacuum the carpets/floors every day and that'll keep a lot of allergens out of the air. If not, vacuuming/sweeping daily is a good idea.
Didn't mean to go on a tangent, but some of those tips might help a lil'.
Take care, and your friend rocks :)
https://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA
Catit Senses 2.0 Self Groomer
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3NI2PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BZ8-BbR55AX11
Few tips:
https://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA
Pretty common on any of the dogs who visit the range.
Here are some!
Kitty is asking you to buy a drinking fountain.
https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Pet-Stainless-Fountain-Raindrop/dp/B0037NKDSG
get yourself a furminator. worth every penny
Mutt Muffs
I flipped through the 23 pages of "Pet supplies" and selected every fish-related item I saw. Times are in EDT.
Prime Day Fish Deals:
API Products:
Filters:
Tanks:
Etc.:
Catit Senses 2.0 Self Groomer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3NI2PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BH5-BbQPT6XCN
Now, we're headed off topic, but we have good luck brushing our cat with a Furminator (http://www.amazon.com/FURminator-Long-Hair-deShedding-Large/dp/B0040QS3PO/ref=lp_1296335011_1_5?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453606550&amp;sr=1-5). He has such thick fur, this was the only thing that put a dent in the shedding. It helped to keep our vacuum from dying to cat fur.
I mean, this is a pretty good deal imo. I don't think you should be dismissing and downvoting this post without doing the proper research. FYI did the math:
17lbs Seiryu rock - $32
Nano 511 Externa Canister Filter - $69
Jardli Glass Lily Pipe inflow and outflow - $49.90
JBJ Rimless 10 gallon - $159.99 cheapest I could find, it's 189.99 at petco
Glass lid - can't find one for 10g so I'd assume custom made $5+
GH & KH Test Kit & API Master Kit-$8.59 + $22.54 = $31.03
Tropica Aquarium Soil 3L - $49.60
5 Gallon Bucket w/ lid - probably like $3-5
Seachem Purigen - 2 packet is $19.49
Cleaning magnet - $5-20
Spider Wood - Depends like $10-25+
Siphon - depends probably $5-10
Test Strips - $5.22
By the way, these are all conservative numbers. The total comes to around $484.31, which is if everything is brand new. Even if some of the products are used, the cost is 52% off the conservative value of all the items in this package. So for the quality of the items here, I don't think it's a bad price at all. Now the question is, which items are new and which items are used?
ecosphere self-contained aquatic ecosystem
should buy one of these lol, mine LOVES it.
https://www.amazon.com/Catit-Senses-2-0-Self-Groomer/dp/B00D3NI2PG/
the furminator. Trust me. Trust me. Trust me. It's probably the most expensive brush out there, but it is worth it's weight doubled in gold. get here
Build a 2x4 C&C cage! It's cheap, easy, and lasts a lifetime. I did it for my two little guys while I was broke in college. And even in my tiny college apartment, I found the space. I put it on a cheap table from Walmart, threw a tablecloth (or maybe it was an old curtain from the dollar store...) over it, and used that space beneath for storage.
Or if you don't want to build, just buy this 2x4 Midwest habitat on Amazon. It's only $35. It makes a NIGHT AND DAY difference in a guinea pig's quality of life. Please!
Enjoy the new piggy. :) I got dogs after my pigs, but I miss the pigs all the time. They're wonderful creatures.
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Service animals are trained for crowds, and with a pair of Mutt Mufflers, the noise becomes a non-issue.
Link! https://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA
BOOM: Catit Senses 2.0 Self Groomer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3NI2PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5t08AbVDJPRA6
Link for the lazy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D3NI2PG
I haven't seen anyone give an extensive, quick, and friendly guide so here's a quick one!
You're going to need a 5.5 gallon in order for him to thrive, otherwise you're gonna have a very unhappy fish who might live but will not be doing good. An aquarium is a tiny ecosystem in an enclosed space, so a .5 gallon gets very toxic, very quickly. It'll hurt his gills, it'll hurt his fins, just everything. The ammonia will buildup quickly and reach very dangerous levels, and although 100% water changes will decrease that, an established bacteria colony (made up of harmless ones) needs to be there for the fish to really be healthy!
When you see a happy and healthy betta, you will never want to go back!
Cheap quick solution for now: Five gallon Rubbermaid from Walmart, this filter, paired with this air pump, and this connector tube. It will run you about $20, and can hold for a while!
Long Term: Buy a 5.5 standalone aquarium tank from Petsmart (only $14.99) and a little pack of gravel, and some live plants of your choice! Check our r/aquaswap for some cheap plants from other Reddit users. Just move over the filter and heater, and you have the perfect set up! There are also some cheap lighting solutions that you can buy to help your plants grow!
Everyone gets tricked in the beginning, but making steps towards helping your betta will enhance his life so much! The whole set up, the filter/air pump/tubing and tank from petsmart, will cost you $27.48 since you've already got the heater!
If your heater is too small, I've got the link to a $6 one (which is $10 less than the cheapest at any pet store I've been to) on amazon that works perfectly and is recommended all the time on this sub.
I’ve found that if you don’t want a cat on a surface they DGAF and will still sit there when you’re not around to shoo them away, but if they don’t want to sit there they won’t. Unpleasant things like foil, tape, and bubble wrap sometimes work, sometimes they don’t. A ScatMat can help with the more stubborn cases. It gives off a static buzz that deters pets from sitting on it.
Over here. They are remarkably efficient. Just one zap was all it took. Now she won't even go near the mats. I'm pretty sure the batteries went dead a long time ago, but she won't approach them for anything.
It's harsh treatment, obviously, but we really had no alternative. We just could not keep her off the sofa, and we had to replace two furniture pieces before we found the mats. My wife was ready to take her for one final trip to the vet. The mat probably saved her life.
https://www.amazon.com/PetFusion-Scratcher-Cardboard-Construction-unverified/dp/B004X6UEH6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511465044&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=cat+lounger+scratcher
I have that same cat bed. The rest of your equipment is better than mine, but on cat beds we are equals.
The cat tree is this one: amazon link
I have one, and honestly they are not very good. The sitting areas at the top are super wobbly / don't really feel stable, even a lightweight cat will cause them to wobble. The wood is a low quality particle board like a thick cardboard. The carpet is a thin felt that provides almost no cushion.
I have two of these other ones and love them, though: link. I'd highly recommend those.
It's still $81, at least in the US. I bought this exact tree too, my purchase history says in 2014. Still have it but it is in the spare room, they only use the top deck now to see it out of a high window. They never used the ladders, I took them off in the first week. I bought a newer and smaller tree for my living room area.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003WGGWQA/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493292929&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=cat+tree
Large pet shock pad(s) under the sheet.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0007NTBJ6
I think that a big part of what makes this a great frugal gift is that it is strikingly different to anything else you can give for cheap. To be handed a jar of dirt is strange and therefore memorable, but (hopefully) it's also something that will be enjoyed. Obviously this gift isn't for everyone, but I think it's head and shoulders above some of the other suggestions. "Oh, a flash drive / gift card / cheese. Thanks..."
As an aside, you can also give more than one if you're feeling generous. Adding different nutrients at the start will cause a different succession of microbes meaning different colours. It sure beats paying $50 to torture shrimp with the animal version
This is the one I use that looks the same. Cat loves it and lasts about a year.
[PetFusion Ultimate Cat Scratcher] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004X6UEH6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
Yep. Get some soft claws. Declawing cats is inhumane. Would you like the tips of your fingers cut off so you didn't scratch anything?
http://www.amazon.com/Soft-Claws-Cats-System-Medium/dp/B00074W458
Some vets in Chicago will even put them on the cat for you.
It's just like having a nippy dog. Do you want the dog to nip your child? Of course not, but you wouldn't pull it's teeth out to prevent an accident. You'd train it to either not do it, or do it appropriately... As Vultras said, get scratching posts... or soft paws at least.
My brother was bitten by our dog when we were younger, because he also wasn't trained to not mistreat the dog. He pulled on the dogs ears a bit too much and the dog nipped him. Unfortunate, but he was okay, and it never happened again.
My cat seriously loves this thing, both for sleeping and scratching:
http://www.amazon.com/PetFusion-Cat-Scratcher-Lounge-Walnut/dp/B004X6UEH6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420413466&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=cat+scratcher
If your cat is scratching "anything and everything" it hasn't been trained well. Pets are a responsibility, and it's your responsibility to train them to correct behavior.
Don't cut off your cats fingers to fix a problem that was caused by you.
I got one of these from PetSmart and my cat uses is almost daily for her face brushies.
It’s called a “self groomer” and made by a company called CatIt. I couldn’t find a specific listing on the PetSmart site, but here’s a listing on Amazon for the one we have.
Update: I found the exact one from the video on Amazon, dubbed “2.0”. It seems really the only difference is the colour (grey instead of blue).
It's available on Amazon!!
On an off-topic side note, if you are concerned about protecting your dog's hearing, then you should buy them dog specific hearing protection. No doubt having a dog wear human ear muff does nearly nothing.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CZQ1TA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-f.IBbTWWJ5AM
A skittish dog wouldn't
https://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524808973&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=dog+hearing+protection
I have these since she loves sitting near the boat engines
Just so ya'll are aware that this awesome kitty tower (I have the same one) Amazon sells these for a whopping $81!
https://www.amazon.com/Go-Pet-Club-Tree-Beige/dp/B003WGGWQA/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493297547&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=cat+tower
You're welcome crazy cat people <3
These have saved my furniture....I go through a few per year.
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https://www.amazon.com/PetFusion-Scratcher-Cardboard-Construction-unverified/dp/B004X6UEH6
Catit Senses 2.0 Self Groomer https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00D3NI2PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_D-8-BbMR08720
Tadah!
I literally bought one last week. Amazon link. My cat fucking loves it.
I find it very difficult to locate non-hideous cat paraphernalia, so I was delighted to get a somewhat mod-looking cat scratcher to entice our cats away from destroying our couch. I have this one in white
I set up their new scratcher, which they are now using as a couch. They refuse to scratch it. Instead they continue to use our new couch for all their scratching needs. Cats!
I don't know if you can buy these ones specifically, but there are these which are rather similar. They're self sustaining ecosystem spheres, just place them next to a window and you can watch life in motion.
> still cat vomit all the time.
Have you tried brushing with a furminator type brush so they are not swallowing all that fur? It's not really their fault if they are long haired or shedding cats and you're not providing the brushing to help them out in a domestic environment where they are not brushing up against plants all the time and there are "stupid human things" around like carpet that are fragile and easily damaged.
You could also try something like the self groomers:
http://www.entirelypets.com/kittykorner.html
https://www.amazon.com/Catit-Senses-2-0-Self-Groomer/dp/B00D3NI2PG
https://www.amazon.com/Self-Groomer-Bristles-Kitten-Massager-Scratcher/dp/B0123M03Y0
Hello! Welcome to the wonderful world of betta keeping! I'm a bit late to the game, since this was posted a bit ago, and you've already recieved advice, but I'd like to offer up some as well.
As everyone has already said, it's a pretty big misconception for nearly all new betta keepers that bettas can be kept in small spaces without a filter or heater. This stems from the belief that bettas live in mud puddles, when it couldn't be further from the truth.
Bettas come from vast rice paddies, that will usually never dip below knee height and stretches for miles on end. In the dry season, the paddies do tend have lower water levels, but certainly not puddles. It's a densely planted ecosystem with moving water, and natural filters, ie. The plants and bacteria.
Since you're new to fish keeping (I assume, but apologies if I am wrong) you may not be aware of something called the "Nitrogen Cycle." While it may be confusing at first, essentially the beneficial bacteria that breaks down your fishes waste into ammonia, then nitrites, and then nitrates. This process is crucial for your fishes health and well being, and is very important in the fish keeping world, but I'll get into the specifics a bit more later in this comment.
While the "recommended" amount of space for a betta is commonly agreed to be 2.5 gallons, which is perfectly fine as a bare minimum, I would honestly not recommend such a small space for a beginner. This is because of the nitrogen cycle. I would go with a 5 gallon tank, or even a 10 gallon, which will be much easier to cycle and keep your fish much safer during the process.
As for the nitrogen cycle itself, the process happens on it's own, but you have to be the one to keep your fish safe during it. Basically, ammonia and nitrites are deadly to your fish, and for the first few weeks, these will be all too common. What your aiming for is the much safer, but still harmful in large quantities, and manageable nitrites at the end of the cycle.
The nitrogen cycle starts with the addition of ammonia into a new tank. This can be done in 2 ways, fish in or fish out. What you'll be doing is a fish in cycle. Beneficial bacteria will begin to grow in your tank to break down waste and convert them into the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates. The bacteria grow on surfaces, such as decor, gravel, filter, heater, glass, and is NOT present in the water itself. This means that for the next few weeks, you gotta stay on top of your water change game.
50% water changes every other day for 2 weeks. 30% water changes every other day for 2 weeks. 40% water changes about every 3-4 days for a week. 30% water changes about once or twice a week at the end of the cycle. I know it seems like a lot, but your fish will appreciate it.
For more information on the Nitrogen Cycle, you can search it on google, and a helpful video to watch on it is KGTropicals youtube video "everything you need to know about the nitrogen cycle." They break it down so well and have more visual representations, so I definitely recommend it.
Some things to consider getting for your fish as well, and things that will help your cycle a TON. I'll be adding links for visual representation, as well as trying to find you the best prices I can.
No links for this one since shipping a tank is a PAIN, but 5 and 10 gallon tanks can be bought from places like walmart, or local stores, or petsmart and Petco. I'm not sure if petco is still having their dollar per gallon sale, but a 10 gallon tank would only be $10.
https://www.amazon.com/Safe-250-g-8-8-oz/dp/B0002A5WOC/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=seachem+prime&amp;qid=1572116532&amp;sr=8-8
To clean a sponge filter is the easiest thing. While your changing tank water, out some in a clean bucket, take your sponge filter out, put in bucket of removed tank water, squeeze sponge filter, put back in tank. It also holds an awesome amount of the good beneficial bacteria and will not lose it when you clean it, unlike changing cartridges for a hang on back filter. They also aerate the water, bringing more oxygen into it, and don't create a high flow that will tire your betta.
https://www.amazon.com/Lefunpets-Biochemical-Sponge-Breeding-Aquarium/dp/B07VM8DN5Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=sponge+filter&amp;qid=1572116736&amp;sr=8-7
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Pump-Gallon-Aquariums/dp/B004PB8SMM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=fish%2Btank%2Bair%2Bpump&amp;qid=1572116792&amp;sr=8-3&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Aquariums-Flexible-Standard/dp/B0002563MW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=airline+tubing&amp;qid=1572116832&amp;sr=8-3
Hang on back filters can be used too though, I just don't find them as reliable.
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Power-Filter-Three-Stage/dp/B001CHXJSK/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?keywords=fish+tank+filter&amp;qid=1572117085&amp;sr=8-16
Be sure to use a hang on back appropriate for your tank size. Bettas can tire easily of water flow is too high, and in some cases you may still need to baffle the filter.
https://youtu.be/Hse7F3pvHqI
https://www.amazon.com/HITOP-Aquarium-Reptiles-Thermometer-50W-Grey/dp/B07MJJJ4QQ/ref=sxin_2_ac_m_pm?ac_md=1-0-VW5kZXIgJDIw-ac_d_pm&amp;keywords=fish+tank+heater&amp;pd_rd_i=B07MJJJ4QQ&amp;pd_rd_r=429ee2a8-3699-45aa-8e2b-e30164b14a2a&amp;pd_rd_w=uFCrj&amp;pd_rd_wg=125c4&amp;pf_rd_p=808372f4-ce06-4458-88ef-16b605aa053a&amp;pf_rd_r=T4YHMVDAP5EAQSAGXKJV&amp;psc=1&amp;qid=1572117367
https://www.amazon.com/Northfin-Betta-Bits-Pellet-Package/dp/B01C1ARV3K/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=northfin+betta+bits&amp;qid=1572117834&amp;sprefix=northfin+&amp;sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A6577-Tropical-Granules-Medium/dp/B07194GD1F/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=fluval+bug+bites&amp;qid=1572117868&amp;sprefix=fluval+bug&amp;sr=8-4
I use a mix of Aqueon, Northfin, and Fluval for some variety in my bettas diets along with frozen blood worms. They love them. I've heard Hikari betta food is good too.
I don't recommend the generic foods sold at walmart. The pellets are too big, and the formula is low quality. It'll keep your betta alive, but just isn't great for them. Also, flake foods are a no no. It's just too messy, the fish doesn't eat all of it, and just isn't worth it.
Lastly, you want to decide what kind of decor you will go with. If you go artificial, be sure to use soft, silk plants so your bettas fins do not get hurt.
I recommend live plants always though, cause they help a lot in keeping your tank clean, produce oxygen, and will help absorb some of nitrates in the water. All around good stuff. Easy plants to take care of are anubias, java ferns, java moss, water wisteria, and floating plants like water lettuce.
Bettas also need hiding places. This can be anything really. From the decor sold at walmart, natural looking rock caves, or even a terracotta pot. It doesn't really matter, as long as it doesn't have sharp points.
The decor is up to you and what you like.
Ummmmm, I can't think of anything else really. But if you need any help with anything, feel free to reach out! A lot of us are passionate about our quirky little dudes and gals and will be more than happy to help with anything you need advice on. And use the internet to your advantage too! There's TONS of good information and videos out there now, and you can find what you're looking for at the touch of a screen now.
And also also, please do not feel bad about your start at betta keeping. We all start somewhere, and more than likely, we have all made this very same mistake. I know I did. The best thing to do now is to just work on upgrading your little dude and providing the best care you can for him. He'll start to heal up and REALLY shine.
Apologies for extremely long message, but I hope this helps and wish you and your betta the best of luck!! ☺️
If you insist on feeding them i would just load up one of these. Run it for a few days to confirm that it is feeding correctly and you should be good to go. Those feeding cubes are terrible.
[Just one example of that] (http://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA)
there's also mutt muffs if your buddy needs ear protection
You could try getting a spacepod thing.
One of my boys is just not a fan of the hammocks but always sleeps in the spacepod. I just place a blanket inside so he has something soft to lay on.
This is the one I have I think:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002X2NBNQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523929804&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=spacepod&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=514yBZHbQ1L&amp;ref=plSrch
I have a cat that will only drink moving water (like from a faucet) so we got one of these and she's happy.
I desperately want two standalone slackline kits because I know Banjo, my Toller, would have a blast using them. That price tho.
I want a peanut but I just don't have the space.
A ladder too. Typical ladder. I'm borrowing one and realized its utility as a dog training tool.
A dog drinking fountain just because.
An A-frame and dogwalk. Maybe a teeter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003WGGWQA/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493292929&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=cat+tree
congratz !! :D
Our siberian favorite toy is this one
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075SZCLZR/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
He absolutely LOVES it, he hides, he plays, he plots against us in there, the wrinkly sound make it super fun for him, and it's extremely robust couldn't find a single tear even with him putting is claw through it.
for a cat tree, it's better that you invest more money in a basic one, than paying for a cheap huge tree, siberian are BIG cats that LOVES to climb and jump and he will throw himself on it and you don't want an accident happening. Molyy and friends does amazing tree, we bought this one
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000OSIJA6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It think he would have love one that his higher than this one but they get pricier, He's spending 80% of his time on it. the top bunk is his bed, he love to run and jump through the loop, playing pick a boo in there, and it comes with the scratching post that is high enough for him to stretch plainly.
this brush is a must have, not a choice YOU NEED IT, Siberian need good brushing often to avoid painful matted fur, get him use to being brush EVERYWHERE very young (especially the butt, and under his "armpits")
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0040QS3PO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Best laser toy ever. you don't have to keep your finger on the button for it to work, it's super bright, and the cat will recognized the toy when he sees it before of it's bright color. we just need to say " Gaspachio wanna play ?" and show him the paws and he starts puring and getting ready to hunt. Make sure to train him to play with laser when he's young by rewarding it at the end of a session with a treat and making him stop on toy (so he has the feeling for catching something) after a few month he will have understand that the red dot CANNOT be catch, it's just fun to run after, and you won't have any mental issue with the cat.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B074Q2YK3L/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This window bed is super strong, at first we though he didn't like it because we didn't saw him on it, then we realized he's always on it during the day when we're not home. And when we start pulling the curtain over it he starts going even more often since it's an "hidden place"
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005AUM8U0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Absolutely NEVER feed you cat with crap cheap brand, if you can afford a 1k cat you can afford good food and treat for it. and brush his teeth regularly.
Also, plenty of soft hugs <3
I don't know if this qualifies as a toy or not but they are so amazing! I've wanted one since I was a kid and saw a giant version at NASA. A tiny, self contained aquarium ecosystem
Self contained ecosystem http://www.amazon.com/EcoSphere-Closed-Aquatic-Ecosystem-Sphere/dp/B005IZOB5M
It can be done, and many people in the group have made sealed tanks, with varying degrees of success. There are also very nice professionally made sealed environment jars.
I do have co2 injection going but for the rotala it is completely unnecessary. It grows like crazy in my low tech, but with co2 I can get enough growth in only 2 days to cut/propagate . I have a cheap($40) LED light from amazon that has been working just fine so far.
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-ScatMat-Indoor-Training-Electronic/dp/B0007NTBJ6
Are those doggo earmuffs? Wonder if I can get a pair for my dog edit found a pair on amazon
For 3/4 days they should be fine but for your upcoming 2 week vacation this is the feeder I have and it works well. I bought one when I went on an 8 month deployment. I love my fiance but he's kinda spacey. I adjusted it to not overfeed them and then had him email me pics and water specs monthly to make sure there weren't any big problems. I've been using it full time for about a year now with no problems.
Those 7 day feeder blocks aren't the best. They will make your water dirty and mess up the water quality. This can make your betta sick. If you're going away for that long, I recommend and automatic fish feeder and an outlet timer (you can get that at walmart or home depot) for your lights. Fish need a proper day/night cycle and a timer will help a lot. Keeping the lights on the whole time will stress him out. Like everyone else is suggesting, it would be better if someone can help you look after him while you're away.
Here's a link to the items I suggested:
Feeder:
http://www.amazon.com/Everyday-Feeder-Programmable-Automatic-Dispenser/dp/B001F2117I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418762954&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=automatic+fish+feeder
Timer:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-24-Hour-Plug-In-Basic-Timer-15119/100685881
You mention her previous home was not caring well for her, so I'm just going to say right away that the situation you have her in does not sound any better. Absolutely do not keep her outside in the winter, since that does not sound like a safe or sustained temperature environment. It is way too risky. Guinea pigs as pets are generally indoor animals, so I'm curious why she wasn't living inside to begin with. An outdoor space can work so long as the enclosure is closed off, protected from weather and you can maintain the temperature at around 65-75 degrees. Much higher or lower and you risk death. A reasonably sized indoor cage (such as this Midwest Habitat, anything much smaller than this is highly discouraged) is relatively inexpensive. Furnish it with your choice of bedding (I personally recommend fleece), a hidey house or two, a food dish, hay rack and a water bottle (keep in mind she may not drink from it consistently, more on this in the next paragraph). Any working individual should be able to reasonably afford this.
Concerning food, does she have anything else besides the one carrot per day? Guinea pigs should have a constant supply of hay (usually timothy hay if they're adults), pellet food (preferably with vitamin c as they do not naturally produce it) and water, either in the form of a bottle or fresh vegetables at the very least. Ideally they also have about half a cup of fresh vegetables per day, minimum. Romaine or Green Leaf lettuce is most commonly used to fulfill this requirement, along with green bell peppers (high in vitamin c and ample source of water). Avoid Iceberg lettuce as it is mostly water and has very little nutrional value for them.
She's likely shy because the previous owner(s) did not interact with her much, and again by your own description, you aren't really doing this either if your only daily interaction is giving her a carrot. Moving her to a more cozy indoor space where she is around and can see people would be a great quality of life improvement for her by itself. Not to mention this would make interacting with her much easier and more convenient compared to her being alone outside. One thing I will say here is that often times guinea pigs are not like dogs and cats in that they will usually warm up to you relatively quickly. In fact the warming up process could take months or even a year+ in some cases, so be mindful of this. However, from my own experiences, the more often you interact with them, the quicker this process is. Start off simple by offering food directly from your hand until she feels comfortable enough to come and take it from you consistently and go from there.
As someone else pointed out, guinea pigs generally do better in pairs. Look into getting her a friend (of the same sex) and read up on bonding techniques. Financially, this is a relatively negligible difference compared to only having one.
Lastly, here are a couple of links with practically everything you need to know in regards to guinea pig care, check the sidebars on the left for various topics:
http://guinealynx.info/healthycavy.html
https://www.cavyspirit.com/
LA Guinea Pig Rescue on Youtube (check the playlist tab for a more categorized version)
You definitely want to cover any floors or shelves that have bare wires on them. It can cause bumblefoot, and that will be no fun for either of you. If you're concerned with the extra cloth making it too warm, you could get a space pod or some baskets for them to sleep in that won't be so warm. You could also get a chin chiller to give them a cool place to rest.
My lil guy (Cheeto) had UTIs and the vet said he had to go on a specific diet and be forced pills to help and he would have to go on that diet for life. Well 3 weeks later and after all the pills and diet change he wasn't any better, but we noticed that he wasn't really drinking and he wasn't eating as much wet food, especially with the new diet which was all hard food. Got the following water fountains and all our cats love them (3 different cats, but only the one had UTI problems).
https://www.amazon.com/Catit-Flower-Fountain-Drinking-Triple-Action/dp/B0146QXOB0
https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Pet-Stainless-Fountain-Raindrop/dp/B0037NKDSG/
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Drinkwell-Platinum-Water-Fountain/dp/B000L3XYZ4/
Take your pick on water fountain, one cat each has a favorite!
I have it too and love it!
Go Pet Club Cat Tree, 50W x 26L x 72H, Beige https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WGGWQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MIA7AbZC4KNB3
depends on if your wife is allergic to the cat itself or the dander. Dander you can sometimes get used to if it's the same cat (I'm allergic to cat dander and i've had cats my whole life. two weeks living with a cat and i'm acclimated to them and the allergies aren't bad.).
You can get a test at the doctor and talk to them about allergy shots or Rx-strength meds to take. Change your pillowcases often so she's not sleeping on a pile of cat fur and remember to wash your hands before touching your face/eyes.
Get a Furminator. It is the best de-shedding/brushing tool on the market. It takes off so much excess hair and dander and will help a LOT. Plus, cats LOVE getting brushed!
Febreeze has an allergen reducer spray. I can't verify how well it works and I wouldn't use it as the ONLY way to reduce allergies but it could be very helpful in certain areas like the bed or couch where the cat and your wife might share space consistently.
Invest in Lint Rollers to help keep fur off yourselves.
And know that there are certain times of year where your wife's allergies may flare up, regardless. I know mine do even though I've have the same cat for 9 years and my previous cat for 10. During the spring/fall I would be much worse than the rest of the time and had to amp up to claritin/benedryl.
I hope you can keep this wonderful kitty! And post pics!
Victorinox 8 Inch Fibrox Pro Chef’s Knife which I got for my husband, we needed a better kitchen knife and this one was rated pretty well by america's test kitchen
Chooka rain boots I have thick calves and these rain boots are fantastic, they're a bit wide too so I can wear wooly socks with them.
My Asus laptop
This cat lounger my cats love, especially my chunky one
And my air purifier
It's a cat lounge.
Buy a cat wheel, it's a must with a Bengal, lots of scratching things, a running water source, lots of toys.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004X6UEH6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My Bengals love this scratching bed.
Tbh, if you want shrimp, just throw like 5 hearty dwarfs in there. They'll be fine. Just don't tell r/shrimptank cause they'd just lose their shit.
https://www.amazon.com/EcoSphere-Closed-Aquatic-Ecosystem-Sphere/dp/B005IZOB5M
Going to do one in a couple of months just cause I can, and for shits and giggles! From my brief research, you want to stay away from hard drives, as the oil will slow down the disc speed.
FISH TANK-http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-29095-Cube-Aquarium-Gallon/dp/B008CA7W7E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1389639912&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=small+fish+tank
OIL-http://store.steoil.com/crystal-plus-tech-grade-mineral-oil-70t-1-gal/
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i3-2120 3.3GHz Dual-Core Processor | $136.51 @ Amazon
Motherboard | ASRock H77M Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard | $76.46 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $92.85 @ Newegg
Storage | Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk | $72.09 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Corsair Builder 430W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $49.15 @ Newegg
Other| Tetra Cube Aquarium| $30.00
Other| 3 Gallons Oil| $30.00
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $487.06
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-04 19:28 EST-0500 |
This is a good cheap 3 gallon, I have one my self and it can easily fit on a desk. http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-29095-Cube-Aquarium-3-Gallon/dp/B008CA7W7E
You will need to get a heater for it though but you can get one for pretty cheap as well.
Buy one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Catit-Senses-2-0-Self-Groomer/dp/B00D3NI2PG
They're selling you a blackbox education package and some weirdo modular farm for $2500. You have no idea what you're getting in either. All I can tell you is this:
A 200 sq ft system (including everything) cannot feed 8 people. 1,100 lbs of vegetables and 400 lbs of tilapia won't feed 8 people, and that's what they claim their system makes. Average people eat 4.5-5 lbs of food in a day on average, meaning 1652-1825 lbs per year per human. A system that produces 1500 lbs won't even feed one person, but they say it right there:
>This one module will feed 8 people FOREVER
That's a lie. Even on their inflated estimates of how much food they produce, that's an outright lie.
Another thing I know: This system does not include fish tanks. Fish tanks are the most expensive part of every build I've ever done, and this system asks that you provide your own. This system does not include filtering tanks, either, which will run you another good bit of change. Potentially most importantly, This system does not include fish. Food-fish are hard to source, and you'll have to source your own.
And to add insult to injury, this system does not include grow medium or PVC. You are paying over a thousand dollars a unit at the the lowest prices (which you can only get at huge volumes, over 50 units) for grow beds, a patented water pump, two air pumps (for no reason, one air pump works just as well), two air stones, tubing, a patented electrical panel, worm castings, mineral dust, and a list of all the other shit you'll have to buy.
Let's price this out:
And the grand total is: $368 for everything they offer, minus the list of other things you'll have to buy.
Hope that list is worth $600+ in your mind.
Seriously though, just go watch all of Bright Agrotech's videos five or seven times apiece to get the science and then read here to figure out what kind of system you want. I just spent fifteen minutes and saved you over a thousand dollars setting up your system. Imagine what you can do in a couple hours.
Kits tend to be more expensive and lower quality compared to buying things separately.
A 5 or 10 gallon tank from petco, pet smart, pretty much any pet store is usually only around $15 max.
An air pump, some airline tubing and a sponge filter, all about $12.
A simple adjustable heater, $9 and a thermometer, $2.
Water conditioner, a small bottle is like $6.
Those are the vital basics, for about $35.
Another thing that is a bit pricier but ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY to get as soon as possible is a liquid drop water test kit which currently on Amazon is $22. Do not get the paper test strips, they are a bit cheaper but they are completely inaccurate and they'll end up costing more because you need to keep buying new ones.
A test kit will be absolutely necessary to cycle the new tank, which, if not done carefully, can kill the fish.
If your friend can't get the test kit right away, I'd check around your local pet stores, because often times they'll offer free water testing. Until then, do big water changes (at least 50%) every day to be fairly sure the water is kept clean and safe.
Necessities
api liquid test kit
sponge filter
airline tubing for sponge filter
air pump for sponge filter
thermometer
fluval spec v kit. Comes with filter, decent light that can grow some lowlight plants, idk what else but I hear it's pretty good, I would look around on other sites to find it cheaper
dechlorinator if you don't already have it
heater, I happen to live somewhere where the temperature of my tank floats right in the bettas range, but if this isn't the case for you then you'll need a heater
You'll need something for a lid, can't find anything on amazon but you have a few options: going to a petstore and looking for a 5 gallon lid, going to other websites to look, or making a DIY lid, which can be done with greenhouse panels, or even wood if you don't mind cutting.
Substrate is optional, but if you want it you can either get pool filter sand, which you can find at your local Home Depot or lowes (assuming you're in the US), you'll have to rinse it first but it's really cheap, $8 for 50lb which is more than enough.
I would buy the tank in person at a store or on some site like Craigslist where you can find used tanks for cheap
Also, don't forget to cycle your tank, if you don't know what that is I would do some research on it, it's possibly the most important thing in keeping any aquatic creature
Off the top of my head, will continue to edit to add stuff
To everyone that has a dog also in love with these ducks, I recommend the Hide a Squirrel
My dog was abused for many years before we got her. Years after that she still never played with any toy. My wife received the bumble bee version of this in the secret santa exchange, and we've since moved to squirrels. These two toys are her absolute favorite, and she is always ready to play when she hears them!
I think everyone reaches a point when they just feel like they have had enough, you simply tossed him into another room where it was okay for him to throw up. You didn't throw him up against a wall, smack/hit him or try to hurt him on purpose you wanted him out of the room and if he wasn't getting out himself it was kind of like an instinct to toss him into the other room. I don't see it hurting him at all and I am sure he landed on his feet just fine, you'd be surprised the height cats can fall from and be perfectly fine.
How are they toy wise? Maybe you could buy one or two of those interactive cat toys, like this or this to help keep them more engaged with each other and with a toy so they don't feel so needy?
Slap a pair of these on frightened puppers
Here are the bits. if you don't mind helping me out (I make 3d printing videos etc..) Goto my Video for the same links as affiliate links. Regular links provided here if you don't want to do that. its also a good video on the Maker Select Duplicator I3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tpcm4XEbP1Q
It is not monitized with ads.
I have purchased all of these with my own money and use all of them.
you can save a little cash by printing your own z brace parts but the kit is not that expensive and looks DAMNED good and is super fast to install. if I get another maker/i3 printer its what I will use (I printed my first one bought my second one) I actually installed my Z brace kit while it was printing :-)
Z Brace Kit
My Video installation
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuVSxyYoKk0&amp;t=1s
https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Z-Brace-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B071SD7B4Z
Replacement Y Plate
https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Carriage-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B01MUAMRN7
If you have a glass cutter this is a lot cheaper for the glass 12x12 Mirror Pane
https://www.amazon.com/Darice-Inch-x12-Square-Mirror/dp/B002PNUZAA
Or just buy the right size Glass Plate
https://www.amazon.com/RioRand-Borosilicate-heatbed-printer-Reprap/dp/B00GAV9SVU
For sure MuttMuffs, and follow the instructions on them. After making sure they fit and trimming the straps, don't use them for fun or games at home. It needs to be a thing the pup learns to love having on in the plane because it makes her ears less painful.
Consider having some blankets and towels to keep the vibrations of the plane low on your pup. They'll want to lean on the sidewalls (at least mine loves to) and that can be more vibration than the seat-cushion would allow.
Definitely schedule in bathroom breaks often, maybe 2 hours or so with at least a half hour on the ground. Treats for encouragement. And if you have a passenger along with the pup, consider having them sit in the back with the dog (if you can put her the back seats and not forced to keep her in the baggage area only). Company is nice back there for her!
If you don't have a space pod yet, that's a loved toy by rats.
http://www.amazon.com/Lixit-Critter-Space-Pod-Large/dp/B002X2NBNQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1456948317&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=space+pod
My rats love to chew, so I get them a box of kid's wood blocks. I make sure that they are non-toxic. http://www.amazon.com/Melissa-Doug-100-Piece-Wood-Blocks/dp/B000068CKY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1456948355&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=wood+blocks
This is from ebay because it's vintage... but my rats love this ark, and it's fairly easy to clean as it unscrews.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vtg-Little-Tikes-Toddle-Tots-Noahs-Ark-Elephant-Giraffe-Sheep-Cow-Noah-Mrs-/182035576604?hash=item2a622a771c:g:fKIAAOSw5dNWhT6u
We got our "crate" at a garage sale. Fairly easy to clean and a favorite hide.
http://www.amazon.com/Battat-68029AM-Dalmatian-Vet-15-Piece/dp/B000BKGM1K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1456948605&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=toy+dog+crate
Orb of Solitude - Usually only one rat can fit inside at a time. We've never had a problem with a rat getting stuck. They seem to know when they've outgrown the small holes, but do keep an eye on them. http://www.amazon.com/Rhino-Toys-Oball-Colors-Vary/dp/B000ETREBK/ref=pd_sim_21_2?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=51gJTFCLf3L&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=11DD9ESJMT8P92RTW2RQ
Dollar store desk accessories and organizer bins are great.
I had an exercise ball zip-tied up in one corner of my cage, which my boys loved, but it wasn't the easiest thing to get inside and clean. I got one of these to replace it, and it's much easier to keep clean.
Agree with everyone here. Got this for my cat when he was about 6 months. He didn't have a problem before but he always liked the shower water, so I figured I'd try it. He loves it so much he plays and splashes in it (but also drinks!). Highly recommended.
I have one of these in plastic, which isn't a bad idea if you aren't sure about it yet. http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Pet-Stainless-Fountain-Raindrop/dp/B0037NKDSG/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1369948231&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=pet+fountain
This is a great tank! From what I can see he has vibrant colors and healthy fins. If Caboose is 10 months old; his current living conditions are maintained, he will live to the full potential of his life span which is 4 to 5 years. Make sure he has enough space at the top of the tank to surface and "breathe", which is important to prevent infections in his labyrinth organ (an organ evolved for absorbing CO2 and oxygen from the air.)
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I like the idea of more plants, if I may give some suggestions? Floating plants in my experience are very good for Betta fish and really most fish in general! It allows me to 'filter' out the light so it isn't shining directly into the tank which may become too intense and stress fish out. Salvinia or 'water moss' is a personal favorite, I also like duckweed, and water lettuce. However you have to be careful because plants like these, especially duckweed, will grow really fast and has to be trimmed a lot.
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Useful links to you I have on hand;
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Cheap API testing kits
Expensive API testing kit (I highly recommend this one)
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https://www.aquariumcoop.com/
https://www.thegreenmachineonline.com/
https://www.fishkeepingworld.com/
https://www.liveaquaria.com/
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http://smile.amazon.com/Go-Pet-Club-Tree-Beige/dp/B003WGGWQA/ref=sr_1_8?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463628057&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=cat+tower
I actually just bought this one off amazon a few days ago, scheduled to get here friday, it appears to be the same one OP has.
$87 dollars right now so not cheap but not ~$200, hang around reddit long enough and you'll learn to never trust anything /u/Epiccyndaquil says
Use the Furminator.
I am using [this one] (http://www.amazon.com/FURminator-Long-deShedding-Large-102004/dp/B0040QS3PO/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406428657&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=furminator) and it works beautifully on all three of my medium / short - haired cats. The amount of fur you get with that tool is staggering. I had brushed them before and still had "hair everywhere" issues like you; when I used the Furminator, it became clear that brushing isn't getting the job done.
If you can't find any I think it's okay to bring them (without hearing protection) hunting since you won't be shooting much or for long periods of time.
I would just not bring them to the range if you can't find dog hearing protection. Last time I went to the range a dog was tied to a tree 20 yards behind the firing line and I can't imagine that was pleasant for several hours. That could seriously mess up their ears.
Edit: From a quick google search http://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA
They do lose hearing, but usually as they are pretty old for a dog (10+).
They do make hearing protection for dogs, but I've never seen anyone use them. They also won't work for dogs that go into water after birds.
There are ear protectors for dogs. If you order now you will have enough time to try them on and see if they fit your dog and whether she likes them or not. If she's comfortable with them you might be able to shield her from the noise and the flashes by keeping her inside with you until the noise has blown over. You also won't have to expose her to an unknown environment that could additionally worry her. At home, with you, with the ear protection, cuddling on the sofa or wherever, might actually be the calmest situation you can provide her, and you don't even need to drive that far :)
Just my 2 cents, I hope it can help you.
Do your girls already have a Space Pod? It can either sit on the floor or hang from the ceiling.
Here's the one I have and I've been very happy with it. There are plastic parts inside (the pump and its housing), but I wash everything about once a week or every other week and that takes care of any junk in there. The housing is dishwasher safe so that makes cleaning that part easy.
My cat was not all that happy with a water dish but would drink because it was available...he's not the type to drink from a water glass.
I got him a pet fountain and he loves it. It filters and circulates water so it stays fresh and it keeps quite cool.
Maybe that would be a solution for your kitty? As to what your aunt said, I don't keep his fountain in a separate room from his food (they're in the same corner of my kitchen), and he doesn't seem to mind.
If you're going to stick with a bowl, I'd recommend using ceramic, stainless steel, or glass; cats don't tend to like plastic bowls.
I have switched all my cats bowls to ceramic or stainless steel because one of my boys was having a bit of an acne issue. I 've had this fountain for 3 years now and it still works great. It's stainless but it also comes in ceramic.
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Pet-Stainless-Fountain-Raindrop/dp/B0037NKDSG
On sale for $35! I might just buy another
Wet food naturally has moisture so cats will drink less anyways.
After my cat had a urinary obstruction, I also switched to wet food. In addition, I add a little filtered water to their wet food to increase its moisture even more (like an 1/4 cup per can) and I got a pet fountain. The cats now have plenty of moisture in their diet, and while they do drink less than with wet food, I still see them playing with the fountain and licking water from their paws / drinking from it occasionally. I know you already have one, but I got this one and it's awesome and super easy to clean. Maybe it might be worth switching it up?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0037NKDSG/ref=zg_bs_2975263011_7?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=W5GYSRYZ2RJ9ZNBFDFKT
Also, don't keep your water directly next to the food supply- cats have a natural instinct to find clean water, and avoid water sources near their killed prey to minimize contamination. Try moving the water further away and see if it helps!
I'm so glad your cat is alright!
I think you were overcharged, here is the same one with different colors on amazon.
I thought about building one, but this is $100 on amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Go-Pet-Club-Tree-Beige/dp/B003WGGWQA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1374436214&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=cat+tree
Aww. That is a pretty harsh comb for just a long haired, fluffy cat; it may tug and feel uncomfortable. Try using a regular human's comb. It won't tug as much and he may like how it feels a little better.
The best comb is this one.
Yes you can get fancy guppies, and male look prettier, but if you wanted you could get girls, or both but you’ll have lots of babies (that can be a plus). Sponge filters aren’t expensive.
Just find a properly rate air pump for your size, typically they have the rating in the description. You’ll also need a piece of sponge, airline tubing, and an air stone
airline tubing
sponge
You should be able to find airstones for $1-2 at a local fish shop. You’ll also need an air pump rated for your pond size.
Kyjen has a lot of different puzzle toys with toys as rewards. Hide a squirrel and Mystery tree are two that come to mind.
edit: I went ahead and added the amazon links for both products
Both my dogs LOVE this toy Hide-A-Squirrel, its great because you can stuff it with a ton of toys and it keeps the dog occupied for a while trying to pull all the toys out. It's really popular on Amazon as well.
Another good classic option would be a Kong and treats to fill it like hard treats or soft treat.
They have something called a scat mat, which despite its slightly off-putting name, works wonders. It's just a plastic mat with a wire going back and forth connected to a battery pack. If the animal touches two points of the wire it closes the circuit and delivers a mild shock. Worked great on my mom's cats when she got a new suede sofa.
They cost $40, but they fuckin work.
Some suggestions:
>He can get a bit hyper, but when he does we try to redirect it or reduce the stimulation.
That actually might be hurting more than helping. He's a year old. He's going to get Hyper. And you shouldn't try to reduce hyperness, just redirect it to appropriate outlets. Don't reduce stimulation, cat's need stimulation, or they get bored, and misbehave. Play with him a lot during the afternoon. Like get a wand toy or a laser pointer and get him to the point he's out of breath, if you can. Drain him of energy as much as possible during the day and it might help during the night. If he has pent up energy or frustration, it's going to come out. If you are constantly causing him to snuff out any energy-expending behaviors during the day, well... he might be dealing with that by letting it out when you aren't able to suppress it as effectively.
> He also only does this if we are both sleeping or trying to sleep.
What is the non-sleeping person doing when the other is sleeping? If the non-sleeping person is giving the cat attention, like playing or petting the kitty, it might be that the cat is just attention-seeking. If the non-sleeping person would scold/remove/react to misbehavior, it might just be that the cat knows he can't do anything without being stopped or punished, and is waiting for when you are both more "vulnerable."
>I swear half the place is taken up by his things, so its not for lack of things to do.
Consider the type of toys - not just the amount. Some toys are inherently better for self-play than others. This ball track was a savoir to me when my kitten was young. And consider strategically placing toys in places the interrupt the pathway to your bed and it's sleeping occupants. I would literally place the track in the doorway of the bedroom so if he was on his way to bother me, he'd get distracted and play with it instead. You can also attempt rotating toys, so they have a "new" appeal to them. Like, keep some toys away and replace them every week or so. Some toys might only come out at night, so he can't get bored of them during the day... things like that.
> We don't smack him if we can help it,
Good - you really shouldn't. Smacking your cat at any time for his behavoir sets a precedent that (1) smacking is fair-game and (2) you are the enemy (they learn to fear you). Not good things! If he is wrestling with your foot in bed, and you smack him for it, there's a good chance he'll get in the mindset of "i'll show that human" and get more agressive back. And what's especially bad is that to cats, there wasn't "warning" before you got physical, that said "this play is inappropriate." Cat's will flick their tails, move their ears, and make sounds (some of which humans can't even hear) to tell other cats they're being too rough... and finally hiss.... before they lay on the retaliating smackdown. Going straight to the hit can make the cat confused, feel like you are unpredictable, or that modulation of behavior isn't practiced in the social setting you're establishing. Though, with such agressive behavior, you can try doing something.... a good hiss would be a good escalation. So, if your cat bites at your arm/leg/whatever, bolt forward fast and give your most intimidating hiss at the cat. Speak the cat lingo of "I'm really effing pissed at you." Make a loud smack with your hand on the bed if you want to (for extra display of intimidation). If the cat rolls over (showing a belly is a sign of submission), lay back down. But keep your eye on your cat for a bit (eye contact is a sign of distrust, breaking eye contact your cat may take a sign you are vulnerable). If the cat doesn't properly react, or repeats the behavoir a second time, then grab it by the scruff. Once kitty is secure, blow in it's face (most cats hate that - but it's not something they can "do back"), and lock him in a bathroom or something. Return to bed. Ignore any protest signs (hell, put some earplugs in), and go to sleep. By locking him out, you've removed the opportunity for him to be in bed with you - which is good. He should see it's a privlage that is removed when he misbehaves.
> Currently we scruff him and remove him from the bed.
Scruffing is good because it mimicks the mommy reinforcement that says "this behavoir is not acceptable." However, sometimes it's not enough. Cat's are highly influenced by reinforcement, and sometimes you may reinforce behaviors without intending to or realizing it. If your cat is seeking a reaction, you waking up and scruffing him may be reinforcement enough, because he wants you awake (for whatever reason) and even annoyed. Obviously, with this behavior it's tricky, though. Sometimes you can get rid of bad behaviors in cats (if the root cause is attention-seeking) by ignoring it entirely and not reacting at all.. but that's hard to do when you're being physically hurt. This is why I would try the above tactic of reaction.
>We're planing on having a baby soon and he cant be doing this to a sleeping baby.
Yeah, soo... don't give kitty access to the baby at night! Honestly, sometimes you just can't trust animals. Not all of them, but... ones that act like this at night are not a good risk to take.
https://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA
5 bucks on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Catit-Senses-2-0-Self-Groomer/dp/B00D3NI2PG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543329495&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=Cat+Self+Groomer
Here you go!
You should already have the tank because you need to cycle it before putting the axolotl in it and cycling typically takes a month or even longer. Read up on the nitrogen cycle:
https://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/modules/smartsection/item.php?itemid=51
If you end up getting the axolotl before the tank finishes cycling, do a fish-in cycle:
https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/comments/3l48fz/tifu_by_impulse_buying_a_fish_fishin_cycling/
I would quarantine the ghost shrimp for a month first. They are farmed in very poor conditions due to their use as feeders, so they could introduce something to the tank.
I use Seachem Fluorite Black Sand (not Fluorite) with my axolotls. It's inert, but supposedly has nutrients. I can't say how well it works for plants since I'm still experimenting with different plants instead of using ones I've already had before. But the axolotls have been fine on it so far.
NICREW lights and ramp timer/dimmer:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ID3OK3S/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KYLX2P6/
Plant species all depends on what you want to do. I wouldn't recommend a carpet with axolotls. Bulb plants are easy if they grow and plants like anubias, java fern, and bucephalandra are easy beginner plants that don't need to be in the substrate due to feeding primarily out of the water column (don't plant their rhizomes).
Give them places to hide. Mine spend a decent amount of time in the cover of the PVC pipes or sponges.
Keep the tank lower to help keep it cooler too but remember you still have to change water, which will be hard for conventional methods if the tank is too low. Sorry, I don't use a chiller, so I can't recommend any.
https://www.amazon.com/NICREW-ClassicLED-Aquarium-Extendable-Brackets/dp/B01ID3OK3S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539625276&sr=8-3&keywords=fish%2Btank%2Blight&th=1
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I got one of these for mine and it's been running strong for the past 1+ years :)
The bed lower plate is slightly thicker than tin foil and bends if you have a strong draft in the room. This is a 3mm drop in replacement. Highly recommended.
I also had issues with bed leveling on my MP select, but I fixed it with an aftermarket carriage plate. I haven't leveled the bed since installing it, and I've had no issues.
Yeah I'd say bad bearing. The ones The came with my Plus were noisy too on fast moves.
I picked up some better ones from Amazon and switched them out when I had the bed apart for the Y carriage replacement.
Bearings (pack of 12 for $8.99 so I've got spares for down the road): edit: they're $10.99 now, Amazon having fun with supply and demand.
CTYRZCH 12Pcs LM8UU Linear Bearings for 3D Printer, RepRap Prusa Mendel DIY CNC Motion, Prusa Mendel, reprap(8mm x 15mm x 24mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CE4H5PC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_6t3NqiIxMNsPK
These were longer than the stocks and fit perfectly in the brackets on the Select Plus. Haven't changed my X axis bearings yet.
Also, I upgraded the Y carriage, highly recommended:
RepRap Champion Y Carriage Plate Upgrade for Wanhao Duplicator i3 and Monoprice Maker Select V1, V2, V2.1 and Plus 3D printers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_bTZZKsFBnZWRg
this is the go-to plate https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Carriage-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500183237&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=y+carriage+plate+i3
do you have a mofset installed?
Finally at work so I can give some links, lol
Here's a cheap sponge filter, I love these for bettas because they have a gentle flow and no mechanical intake for the betta to get sucked into. The bacteria will live in the sponges so make sure to never clean them with tap water or else you'll kill them! You'll also need an air pump and some airline tubing to get the filter going. I've used all of these and it's a pretty simple and cheap setup.
To actually measure the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate levels, you'll need a test kit. I know some people and stores use strips, but they are hilariously inaccurate. You can have levels of 70+ ppm of nitrate (which is usually deadly) and the strips will tell you that you have 0 ppm. The liquid kit also lasts a lot longer! Your tank is cycled when ammonia is at 0 ppm, nitrites are at 0 pmm, and nitrates are at 0-20 ppm.
To make it easier to clean his tank, you can use a siphon. It sucks up the water for you, all you need is a bucket/tub to catch it in. Makes cleaning a lot less hectic!
Just a side note, Betta are actually tropical (and cold-blooded fish), so they need a heater. This is good for a 10 gal, it's what I use :) You can also get a glass or electronic thermometer to make sure the water is staying at the recommended 78-80 F. If you already have a water conditioner this is optional but Seachem Prime is what I use as it binds and neutralizes low levels of ammonia.
Here's the sub caresheet/wiki, and here's a guide to fish-in cycling (which basically just means cycling the tank with a fish already inside). I know this is a lot of info/expenses all at once but if you ever have any questions you're always free to PM me! I'm happy to help to the best of my ability. I'd recommend getting him a 5 gal or bigger ASAP, and with clean warm water his fins will be healing in no time :)
Here’s a solutions- go to a local hardware store or tractor supply or landscape store and try to find an all purpose tub, storage tote, or practically any large container, somewhere around 30-50 gallons. Most of these tubs are fish safe, and are very cheap. For filtration use a large sponge filter and pump which are a very cheap and a effective alternative to normal filters. I wouldn’t worry about heat at the moment as this is meant to be temporary, and goldfish can handle it briefly. I wouldn’t but any decorations or substrate in the tub, just leave it bare. This setup is actually widely used in the goldfish hobby, so it’s a great choice.
Here’s the supplies list on amazon for your convenience, but keep in mind you could also go and look for these products cheaper elsewhere and don’t have to be the exact ones
Sponge filter-
Bacto-Surge High Density Foam Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOFPX9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D0G6AbC8B1HRS
Pump-
VicTsing 80 GPH (300L/H, 4W) Submersible Water Pump For Pond, Aquarium, Fish Tank Fountain Water Pump Hydroponics with 5.9ft (1.8M) Power Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EWENKXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J2G6Ab01249QW
Air tube-
Penn Plax Airline Tubing for Aquariums –Clear and Flexible Resists Kinking, 25 Feet Standard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002563MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l3G6AbXFY7BEV
Plastic Tub-
Rubbermaid Commercial FG424300BLA Structural Foam Stock Tank, 50 Gallon Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPBLAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U5G6Ab4CHSP90
Cycling biology-
Fluval Biological Enhancer for Aquarium, 8.4-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIZ8Y0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_26G6AbAR5QBRK
Gotta use a scat mat if you want to get proper entrainment.
I recommend getting one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Everyday-Feeder-Programmable-Automatic-Dispenser/dp/B001F2117I
I believe it's this on Amazon.
The cost of a C&C cage can vary a whole lot depending on where you get your materials. Some places, sign stores will sell a lot of Coroplast for next to nothing, other places charge way more. A pre-cut C&C kit from guineapigzone, for example, might cost $80-$100 depending on size, and includes everything needed, including the coroplast already cut and scored appropriately, all the grids, connectors and zip ties. Other people have said they've gotten all the materials for under $30 total.
If you do want a pre-made cage, the Midwest Guinea Pig Habitat is about as good and cost-effective as it gets: http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-171GH-Interactive-Guinea-Habitat/dp/B001NJ0DPY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;s=home-garden&amp;qid=1237496903&amp;sr=8-2
That Midwest cage is between a 2x3 and 2x4 in terms of C&C dimensions, so it's good for one or two piggies. It's $35 on Amazon, which is a pretty good deal, considering pet stores generally have way smaller cages for way more money.
I bought one of those pre-cut C&C kits for a 2x4 cage with a 2x1 loft and ramp. Personally, I think it was worth the extra cost because I didn't have to measure or cut anything, just put it together, which took about half an hour. It's been a very nice and reliable cage so far, and I highly recommend C&C. But if you want the convenience of a brand-name cage, the Midwest is pretty much the only way to go.
Get lava ledges and defintely get a Sputnik. You'll see a lot of posts on here of ratties in their sputnik. They love them!
Sorry for the length! I get a bit wordy with my answers!
spiral bird rope
bendy bird rope
wooden bridge
Sputnik/space pod
foraging toy
wooden climbing platforms
2-pack lava ledges
foraging wheel
Also a good idea might be to look up some rat safe treat recipes and make a little ratty goodie bag for them (banana chips, oats, dried pasta, certain seeds, etc.)
I switched my cat to a metal water fountain with a little charcoal filter and she loves it! My cat drinks at least 10x more than she ever did before. I clean it once a week and have had no issues with water build up and it's really easy to clean. My weird cat likes to drink with her paws so the fountain gets gross
fast, but if you have a normal cat you could probably clean it even less. This is the filter I have -- Pioneer Pet Stainless Steel Fountain Raindrop Design , 60oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037NKDSG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eE5TBb4RFSS8S
I love this Pioneer Pet fountain because everything except the pump can go in the dishwasher! I usually soak the pump in vinegar and then scrub it with a brush.
PetFusion Ultimate Cat Scratcher Lounge. [Superior Cardboard & Construction]. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004X6UEH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ipRADb6MJVEQS
My cat loves it and doesn’t scratch anything else
You can get brine shrimp in a self-sustaining ecosphere.
https://www.amazon.com/EcoSphere-Closed-Aquatic-Ecosystem-Sphere/dp/B005IZOB5M
I’ve had one for five years and have one shrimp left (out of four). The maintenance is almost zero and it’s fun to watch them swim around.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3NI2PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5t08AbVDJPRA6
I have never bought something so quickly.
I think this literally stole the pictures from the Catit one. https://www.amazon.com/Catit-Senses-2-0-Self-Groomer/dp/B00D3NI2PG
I care because Catit packages their toys in boxes that are decorated in fun ways that you can turn into additional toys. My dumb cat gets one that's like a treasure chest stuck on his dumb head all the time and it is intensely funny.
I also have this and my cat never uses it. But sometimes I hit my leg against it and it hurts, which will someday teach me to look where I'm going?
pet stores are actually known to NOT (or rarely) carry thermostats, which is one of the reasons why a lot of people don't know you need them.
you can buy them on amazon, pay for fast shipping (this one is widely used)
same for the gun, any cheap one is fine (i use this one)
if you can only get one, definitely get the thermostat as it's one of the most important things
so at petsmart just pick up hides and the aspen bedding. ideally both hides should be the same. get a hide that looks pretty small! you would be surprised at how small my hides are compared to how big my snake is. they can really squeeze in there and feel secure. if the hide is too big, it won't make them feel safe.
i would recommend joining this forum, there are a ton of people there who have been keeping snakes 10+ years who can better answer your questions.
Way cute! Seriously, get a nice dog brush like the furminator. They shed like a mother f**ker.
Cute as hell. Needs to be furminated.
^^Former ^^Ragdoll ^^Owner.
Our vet recommends the furminator; the amount of fur it pulls out is pretty intense and your bun must be very docile to have it work well.
We have a hairbuster which is a little more gentle — you have to kind of go against the grain so the rubber pulls the hair out.
Your best bet is to get a few brush strokes in per petting session before the bun gets mad at you, so constant vigilance is key.
Have you tried the Furminator brush?
Dude, THIS
100% this. This is the absolute most loved thing by every cat that we've had in our house, and my mom had to get one for her kitties too.
[It's pretty neat ](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005IZOB5M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_zutdAbFZ0G9FG
$60 on amazon not bad
https://www.amazon.com/EcoSphere-Closed-Aquatic-Ecosystem-Sphere/dp/B005IZOB5M
I got this one a year ago and my little shrimps are still going strong.
The magnetic glass cleaning system is pretty neat too.
As stated in title, Fishy is the newest member of our household.
My first instinct was to read up on bettas and in doing so, found this subreddit.
I have several doubts, such as:
As per suggestions on this sub, I think buying a bigger tank is my number 1 priority; im currently looking into a Tetra Tank (3 Gallons), this one is favored by my wife, as she finds its aesthetically pleasing (and I agree). However, most people suggest a 5 Gallon tank, so Im also looking into a GloFish Tank, we both dislike the blue led on this model and the black plastic lid it comes with.
In any case, we're also looking to buy the following:
We already have a net (for scooping), drops to dechlorinate water, aquarium salt (for cleaning) and what you see already in the tank.
Please help us give this fish an awesome life!
PS.: We are not in the US, if it even matters.
Amazon my friend.
Of course the Spongebob stuff is extra.
Well, this tank unfortunately is plastic, but it does have a great minimal look. Fits perfectly on the corner of my desk here at home. It has a flat plastic lid that just sorta sits on top.
http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-29095-Cube-Aquarium-3-Gallon/dp/B008CA7W7E
Basically, you're killing him slowly. Ammonia (posion!) will build up in the tank while oxygen and other good stuff decreases. Imagine if someone sealed you in a 10x10 room and only let the air run once every 2-3 weeks.
If you want to save him, do this:
Invest 50 bucks on your fish, and you'll have a healthy, happy companion for at least 3 more years.
Looking at your original post...
The responses were valid advice, even if the tone may have been a bit condescending, but your responses were also very defensive and rude.
If you want to keep your water from being cloudy, upgrade to a tank with a filter. 1 gallon really isn't large enough for a betta, and they are tropical fish so should be in a heated tank.
You can pick up a pretty cheap kit that includes a light and filter.
Something like this looks nice, is adequately sized, and comes with a filter (although its not a GREAT filter, its certainly better than none) This little heater works well for a 3 gallon (which is what I linked earlier) and doesn't take up much room or look crappy in the tank.
A filter is not a cure all, you will still want to do partial water changes occasionally, and if youre having trouble with cloudy water, you may be over feeding. your fish's stomach is about the size of it's eye, it only needs 2-3 or those little betta pellets once a day, and if you want to keep 2 male bettas, you'll want to get something at least 5 gallons, and the divider should be something they cant see clearly though as it will stress them out. You can usually pick up a little 5 gallon glass tank at most pet stores for about $11, but you would need to get a filter, heater, etc seperately. Bettas are jumpers, so youd want to either leave about an inch unfilled at the top, or put some kind of lid on there.
This little filter works great for ~5 gallon tanks, and has adjustable flow. (bettas dont like a lot of current, so you wanna keep the flow on any filter pretty low for them)
Getting a siphon, or just a 2-3ft piece of fountain tubing (you can get it from any hardware store) makes partial water changes a million times easier as well. If you WANT to put forth the necessary effort to properly house and car for your fish, send me a PM and I may be able to help you out if you truly can't afford it. But if you TRULY don't have the time to screw with it, give them away to someone who does, and try again when your life situation is less stressful.
Its acrylic but i got it for a great price around black friday on Amazon
Tetra LED Cube Shaped 3 Gallon Aquarium with Pedestal Base https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CA7W7E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Eu-MAb7SYPXMB
Also you might want to upgrade if the tank is 1 gallon or less. A lot of people say 5 gallon is minimum, but I’ve had a lot of success with a three gallon tank with live plants and a snail.
While I highly suggest this tank, I think a lot of petsmarts have tanks in similar sizes with filters for a better price.
I would suggest that you also buy some Anubis nana to add to the tank, and possibly checking nearby ponds for duckweed you can heavily rinse and add to your tank.
Tetra LED Cube Shaped 3 Gallon Aquarium with Pedestal Base https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CA7W7E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0BjMAbE8KWRGP
I also have a certain type of plant I bought on sale that seems to grow like a weed, but it doesn’t have a shortened name so I’ll need to look it up
edit It’s a Bacopa, not sure on the full name but it’s the species petsmart sells.
It was in my tank for 4 months and grew from being little over an inch to five inches long
I'd invest in something like this. It comes with lighting and a small air-driven filter; in a heated room or in a temperate climate, this will be sufficient for a solitary Betta after the tank cycles. You could add in shrimp or a snail, but no more fish.
Alternatively, for a little more money, you can probably get a 10G tank at Petco for the $10 and spend about $15-20 on a hood with light. Then you can get a cheap hang-over-back power filter or get a small airpump and order a sponge filter online. The Betta would appreciate the extra room and you could probably, after the tank cycles, keep a small school of more peaceful fish with him after (bottom feeders like Cory Cats or Otos would probably be ideal)
It’s a groomer brush you can attach to a corner
Way cheaper on Amazon! Catit Senses 2.0 Self Groomer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3NI2PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nok.BbW9XND0M
My cat does this! I hold it down on the floor for her with my foot, but she also has one of these.
Catit Senses 2.0 - Cat Corner Self Groomer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3NI2PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vUu3DbC724583
I use this filter - https://www.amazon.com/Camco-TastePURE-Flexible-Protector-40043/dp/B0006IX87S/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Camco+TastePURE+Water+Filter+with+Flexible+Hose+Protector+Greatly+Reduces+Bad+Taste%2C+Odors%2C+Chlorine+and+Sediment+in+Drinking+Water&qid=1559231197&s=gateway&sr=8-1
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Which runs into this RO maker - https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-50-Gallon/dp/B00DOG63OY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=ro+buddy&qid=1559231240&s=gateway&sr=8-1
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That I then let run into an unused 6.5gal bottling bucket. I still toss a half a tab of campden in on brew day. Then I build up my water profile with salts/acids from there.
The trough was about 60 - https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/rubbermaid-structural-foam-stock-tanks-50-gal-capacity
I used probably one 50lb bag of peat moss from home depot (20 maybe? I don't really remember how much) plus some left over peralite I had. The terracotta pot was also just laying around.
What you can't see but I very quickly figured out I needed was an RO filter with the 100 degree days we're getting. That was another $50 of amazon. Aquatic Life RO Buddie Three Stage Reverse Osmosis, 50-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOG63OY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_pLpXqAIkA58Rx
So probably 150ish total.
This unit has been fantastic for me for the past year. After one year of use, it still puts out 0ppm water.
I produce about 3 gallons a day with it (small-ish collection). But obviously it's capable of up to 50 gal/day. Note though that these RO systems put out waste water at a ratio of like 2:1 in my experience (more like 4:1 at the beginning of life), so I have to find something to do with 5-10 gallons of super hard (140ppm) water every day.
If you hate wasting water, consider capturing the waste water in buckets and flush your toilet with it. That's what I do, or occasionally dilute slightly with regular tap water and water your other plants.
Since I currently buy my brewing water at the store, I've been considering buying one of these to produce my own RO water. Obviously it's nowhere near the necessary size for what you'd want in your whole house, but it should be okay for getting brewing water ready. Has anybody used something like this before? (they're commonly used for aquariums and for small hydroponic setups)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Lo-oDbPBMW1A8
Check this out. Plug your heater into it, and set the thermostat of the device to your maximum allowable temperature. Let's say, the heater is set to 78°, and the thermostat controller is set to 82°. The heater will function independently to keep the water at 78° because the controller is providing power. If the heater malfunctions and starts cooking, at 82°, the controller will turn off power to the heater, rendering it unable to boil your tank.
Slow money is better than no money! :)
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Sorry for the delayed response. Here's some of my recommendations:
Jumpstart/Century Pulse Thermostat - $17 - Super reliable and cheap!
Slightly cheaper 'Repti Zoo' Pulse Thermostat - $16 I've had this one previously, the brand was different but it's the same model. I'd only choose this over the jumpstart if you are forced to - due to stocking issues etc.
- I can't seem to find many of the ones that we have in the UK on the Amazon US site, but Id' 100% recommend the jumpstart.
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Also, you're gonna need two of them. I've heard of people using this product here ($36) to control two at once. Might be worth looking in to :-)
I have two heating pads on the bottom of Renault’s tank, a high wattage (~17W) at the hot end and a low wattage (~10W?)in the middle. Both are thermostatically controlled though, with sensors inside the tank under the carpet and on the glass, so they kick on and off at preset temperatures to maintain the temperature gradient, and don’t let the carpeting get above a very safe temperature.
With that said, I think that might be overkill; the low wattage one simply cant get the floor too hot, and the bigger one even running full time during the day might not either. Possibly better safe than sorry.
This was the thermostat I chose; Century Digital Heat Mat... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I don’t know if they’re well respected or not; one of mine arrived dead, the other was fine. I popped the case off the dead one and re-soldered the resistor that wasn’t done right at the factory (I was in a hurry and didn’t want to faff about with a return) which fixed it. I will say they seemed well designed (very simple, but nice component choice) and that one resistor notwithstanding, well put together.
Hello everyone,
Earlier this week I got my first snake, which was a female western hognose. Unfortunately, the previous owners seem to have provided lackluster care (here was the tank, bedding etc she came in).
I have since purchased a 40 gallon tank, got new bedding, purchased 2 hides, added a larger heating pad, light lamp, and have a thermometer I'll be installing on the heat lamp...
...but 24 hours after transferring the snake to her new tank, she hadn't shown herself at all.
At first she explored her new, larger surroundings. But then she buried and I didn't see her. Worried, I just found her on the cooler non-lit/non-heated side still not moving much (and generally not happy with my bothering her).
Concerns:
Here is a picture of the new setup. I used this ReptiChip substrate (coconut husk), which I'm a bit anxious about because it specifically mentions pythons and boas, not a hognose. I followed their instructions using water to expand the chips and add some moisture, but the moisture is collecting in the tank (picture at the base here).
When I tried to find her in the substrate, I noticed a small flying insect similar to a gnat. Not sure if this is relevant or this is just something I should watch out for.
Many thanks for all y'alls help. I apologize for my ignorance. In posting this (and quickly purchasing more/better products), I am doing my best to care for the animal.
>T8 17W 6500,
I was having a similar issue with my 35 gallon and went with a NiCrew LED and now my plants are growing like crazy. This is the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/NICREW-ClassicLED-Aquarium-Extendable-Brackets/dp/B01ID3OK3S/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=11WLM4KQ8OGN2&keywords=aquarium+led+light+30+inch&qid=1551111987&s=gateway&sprefix=aquarium+led%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
Let the downvotes rain on me for this...I've had nothing but good luck with my cheapos from Amazon. I have them on almost all of my planted tanks and love them. Depending on the height off the substrate will depend on whether it's good for low, medium or high light plants.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ID3OK3S/ref=sxts_bia_sr1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492993693&amp;sr=1
bough this just now
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ID3OK3S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Also on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0qlgAb9BE509W
I recommend this one make sure you get the large version that has the double sponges. Then you just connect an air pump with some airline tubing
Also I recommend getting a 10g since they are probably cheaper and more stable since you have a larger volume of water. And stable water means a higher survival rate of your shrimp.
For example here:
10 Gallon tank for 14,99 http://www.petsmart.com/fish/supplies/aquariums-and-stands/aquariums/grreat-choice-10-gallon-glass-aquarium-2831264.html
A double sponge filter which is good for twice the aquarium volume (cleaner water double sponge is double bacteria). for 3,99
https://www.amazon.com/XY-2822-Double-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium/dp/B005VAFGKI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478978662&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=sponge+filter
An air pump for 5,59
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009YJ4N6/ref=pd_sim_199_5?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=CWY7AKPMJBQJY3AXT7X2
25 feet tubing 3.23
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002563MW/ref=pd_sim_199_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=CWY7AKPMJBQJY3AXT7X2
14,49 for a heater
https://www.amazon.com/Submersible-Aquarium-Heater-Freshwater-Saltwater/dp/B017UK0ZUW/ref=sr_1_25?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478978931&amp;sr=1-25-spons&amp;keywords=10+g+heater&amp;psc=1
That's twice the size for 42,40. You will only need to buy a light and those can be as cheap or expensive as you want but this not required and purely aesthetic again.
My dog loves the pickle pocket, she spent over an hour working on it just last night, and went back to it this morning. I've also heard some dogs like this Hide-A-Squirrel Toy, so that's an option that doesn't involve treats/food.
Does he have a Kong already? Puzzle treat toys like that are almost always a hit - I have a Kong and a branch toy like this you can put kibble in. I also think the Hide-A-Squirrel game is adorable. Those, a rope bone for tug, a flirt pole, a frisbee, and a grunting pig comprise Tess's favorite toys.
https://www.amazon.com/Outward-Hound-Squirrel-Interactive-Puzzle/dp/B0002I0O60
My dog loves this thing. Got it from a family member after we adopted my dog and figured he would just destroy it. It looks like a cat toy. Boy were we wrong. Used it as a training tool to teach him "give" (or "drop it"), as he would fetch each squirrel and bring it to us. They're apparently scented and that's why dogs love them so much.
I have heard good things about the Hide-a-Squirrel.
I am interested in other peoples suggestions! We are getting our puppy (Pembroke Welsh Corgi) soon, as well, and it's always good to hear what other people's dogs enjoy.
We have a toy log with holes in it and little squirrels with squeakers you put in and the pug has to try and pull them out.
Amazon Link
Get a Scatmat. They work brilliantly and you can just move them around to spots you don't want them on till they get trained...which usually only takes a shock or two.
This or a https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-ScatMat-Indoor-Training-Electronic/dp/B0007NTBJ6
Scat mat: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-ScatMat-Indoor-Training-Electronic/dp/B0007NTBJ6/ref=br_lf_m_obag9nqtcktf8rm_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;s=pet-supplies
Motion detector spray: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Spray-Deterrent/dp/B000RIA95G/ref=br_lf_m_obag9nqtcktf8rm_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;s=pet-supplies
I've been using an eheim auto-feeder for over a year and it's pretty good.
https://www.amazon.com/Everyday-Feeder-Programmable-Automatic-Dispenser/dp/B001F2117I
I have one of these: Auto fish feeder and it has served me well with my 65 gallon. You can program when it feeds, how many times it spins, and adjust how much food falls out. It wasn't too expensive and I haven't even replaced the batteries yet (in 1.5 years). ><>
I got an automatic feeder for the community tank. Sooooo worth it. EHEIM Everyday Fish Feeder Programmable Automatic Food Dispenser https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F2117I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PStDDb2KTB4EG
I use the Eheim everyday fish feeder for when I go on vacation, and it's great! You can do multiple feedings per day, or just one at a specific time. It's also got an adjustable opening so you can leave it very small to not feed as much.
https://www.amazon.com/Everyday-Feeder-Programmable-Automatic-Dispenser/dp/B001F2117I
get an autofeeder, then you never have to worry about it
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https://www.amazon.com/Everyday-Feeder-Programmable-Automatic-Dispenser/dp/B001F2117I
eheim daily feeder / air feeder as it's sometimes called.
https://www.amazon.com/Everyday-Feeder-Programmable-Automatic-Dispenser/dp/B001F2117I/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481557630&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=eheim+everyday+fish+feeder
Up to 4 feedings, can be used with flake (if very uniform and smaller than the opening- i crush mine up) or pellets. adjustable gate (most people open it up then tape over the opening partially for fine tuning) and you can set each feeding to rotate the drum once, or twice (after a 1 minute delay. helps slower feeders have an opportunity to get something after the more active fish feed on the first dump)
Very happy with mine so far.
I have an eheim daily feeder and I really like it, you set up multiple feelings per day and it works with both flake and pellet food. Just be careful If you use pellet, it's really easy to over feed!
I've heard good things about [this auto-feeder] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F2117I?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_4&amp;smid=A1BNS86D4V4GO1).
I've read enough horror stories about time release food spiking ammonia levels to be uncomfortable with it. I'd rather chance my buddy missing a meal than getting poisoned.
If I work from home i try to have a box near me, especially a new one. He jumps into it every time.
Food puzzles throughout the day (staggered feeding with mostly kibble).
This one I just put kibbles in and he has to fish them out
Catit Design Senses Play Circuit
Or empty toilet paper or paper towel rolls, put in kibble fold ends. Cut holes in if you'd like.
6 pack beer boxes. Put food in holes. You can even cover some of them with crumpled paper so long as your cat wont ingest it.
I can't speak for your cats, but my cats love this ball circuit.
I've had it for a year, and they will still play with it.
The first thing to resolve is playtime. It's possible she just loves plastic, but the fact that she doesn't want to play with you at all suggests either a picky cat, or one that doesn't yet trust you. You're the food provider, but playtime is also quality bonding time for a cat. She's already fully grown, so maybe it's a learned thing, but it's something that you should be able to correct to some extent.
There are some motion cat toys that you could try using to get her playing more on her own.
like this
this
this
or this
It's also possible that you aren't playing with her the way she wants to be played with, cats can be very fickle about this. My own cat is very picky about how my SO and I play with her, and she picks one of us based on how she wants to play. She'll pick me when she wants to chase a stick toy, and my SO when she wants to wrestle, that kind of thing.
Have you tried using the straws to play with her? Maybe try hiding a straw under a blanket where she can see it move from wiggling it. You could also try new tactics with the stick toys like this, hide them under things and move them. My cat only likes the stick toys if I alternate between moving them very slowly while in her line of sight, slowly moving out of her line of sight, and then moving it quickly to get her to chase it when she tries to pounce it.
I'd also suggest looking up different playtime techniques for cats online, like on YouTube or what have you, especially related to more wild/feral cats, as they also don't really like playing with humans. I'm not saying she's wild of course, but because she's more standoffish from you it may be along the same lines.
If you can get her to play with you consistently, then you can very easily tire her out and get her on the schedule YOU want her on. The idea is that cats hunt/play and then eat the reward of the hunt, and then sleep.
My own cat used to be very similar with waking us up very early for food, usually by making lots of noise and biting if that didn't work. Once we were able to get her on the hunt/eat/sleep schedule with her timed meals, we basically stopped the bad morning behavior entirely.
Sorry for the long post, hope this helps!
http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Homes-for-Pets-171GH/dp/B001NJ0DPY
It's not glass but I have this cage:
Guinea Habitat Guinea Pig Cage by MidWest, 47L x 24W x 14H Inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NJ0DPY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_89l6BbG6Z6EN7
You can also look into making a c&c cage for some ideas.
But that cage fits perfectly on our coffee table.
And we have a small apartment. I wind up spot cleaning the areas where they pee 2 or 3 times a week to cut back on odors. Doesn't take very long. And once a week I use a deodorizing cage spray to spray down the bottom of the cage to get rid of any lingering odors.
I know others have said this but the wire floor is bad for their feet which is probably why he doent leave much. It sounds like he is depressed. Does he have a friend? It is a myth that boys cant live together. If you wanted to get him a friend all you really have to do is get a baby and make sure they have a cage that fits the minimum (8sq feet) the midwest cage is great for this. I will leave a link to it.
https://www.amazon.com/Guinea-Habitat-Cage-MidWest-Inches/dp/B001NJ0DPY
Also look up c and c cages these are also great.
Hope that helps.
Also I agree with others that guinea pigs need alot of space but it is all ground level space one level is best .
definitely bigger, i agree with the other posts that C&C cage is the best option but do be careful with small piggies and the size of the grids. midwest habitat’s are really good as well though and you could always expand them https://www.amazon.com/Guinea-Habitat-Cage-MidWest-Inches/dp/B001NJ0DPY
Don't forget ear pro for the dogs!
http://dogs.thefuntimesguide.com/2007/08/dog_earplugs_for_dogs.php
http://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA (Big foam plugs can work as well, depending on breed.)
For recall you can use a vibrating collar.
yes they do
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
upgraded carriage plate, should be one of the first things you do, the stock one is flimsy and prone to warping, making the print bed extremely hard to level reliably.
https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend-SLOTTED-Cooling-Wanhao/dp/B01E1HANLS/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497736485&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr3&amp;keywords=i3+plus+all+metal+hotend
all metal hotend will enable you to print at much higher temp, and increase reliability of the print head. not strictly needed, but a great upgrade if you want to print abs, petg, or other higher temp filaments.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=3008523062&amp;pd_rd_wg=sUxZ5&amp;pf_rd_r=W5Q7RV181EJYGTBW4YDJ&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&amp;pf_rd_t=301&amp;pd_rd_i=B01HCVJ3K2&amp;pd_rd_w=ZPXZq&amp;pf_rd_i=tri+gorilla&amp;pd_rd_r=F2X8G4XDPCVTNXX6J560&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497736655&amp;sr=1
heater bed mosfet upgrade. again, not strictly needed, but also useful for high temp filaments like abs, as you can run the heated bed at higher temps. also solves (small possibility, i3 plus supposedly fixed issue) of stock mosfet burning out and catching fire.
https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=i3+plus+cooler&amp;sa=&amp;dwh=295945a7ab3d0cd
print a cooling fan shroud, i use the ciiicooler, the diiicooler is great as well. preferably in abs. BIG quality improvement, the stock fan is useless.
these are some of the ones i use, and there's a lot of other things you can do, extruder gear, improved bearings, too many to count really, just a matter of how far you want to go for incremental gains. the carriage plate and the cooling fan shroud are the only strictly necessary ones though.
oh and i made my own version of this z-brace, don't have the files anymore unfortunately, but this one is fine:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1653631
that's also something you should do asap.
Cantidad de Perros * (Dos de estos + Uno de estos) + Esto otro = Paz perpetua
De nada.
MidWest Critter Nation Single Level, two level optional depending on budget.
Space Pod
Oxbow Regal Rat food
Water bottles
Litter box
Hammock
Food bowl
Hi there. Congratulations on your new boys! I love Rex rats! I've been a ratty mom for over 12 years. I currently have 3 males, all dumbos, one of which is a Rex. The best advice I can give is to make sure to socialize your new babies and let them get used to you, your environment, as well as each other. (I'm glad to hear you got more than one!) Pouches are a great start for that, so you are definitely on the right track. I love playing around and interacting with my boys, but I also make sure to sit back and let them explore on their own, too.
Having a good cage is crucial. I recently got space pods and they love them! Having it be plastic instead of fabric cuts down on smell, too. I always make sure they have a bunch of things to chew on and play with. Make sure they have good bedding as well. I use recycled newspaper and crinkle paper.
Diet plays a big role. I feed my guys mostly Mazuri blocks and Oxbow with some vegetables (they love broccoli and frozen peas). I try to stay cognizant of treats, since they're mostly sugar and fat. (Males are prone to weight gain, so you gotta watch out.) Fruits work really well as a treat for training.
If you have any questions as you guys get adjusted, feel free to PM me.
(Also, sorry all the hyperlinks are to Amazon haha. It's what Google pulls up.)
Congratulations again :)
One thing I do for my rats is give them empty pop cases. They absolutely love nesting in them and it costs me nothing. I change it out probably once a week. Another thing you could get is a space pod. Most rats love them and they're versatile, you can hang them upside down if you want. I also give my rats children's wooden blocks and popsicle sticks to chew on. And I've done things like filling penny rolls with treats and closing them up and giving that to them, or the sock pinata method where you hang an old sock somewhere they can barely reach it, and fill it with treats. Also it doesn't look like you have anything for them to nest with, getting a yard of fleece from the craft store and cutting it up will do wonders, or giving them tissue paper to tear up and nest with.
Have you tried a pet fountain? I have this one but there are different brands/models available. A fountain at least keeps them drinking in the area you want them to drink, and is available all the time vs. only when someone showers or turns on a faucet. Plus, it's easy for cats to get dehydrated since they have a low thirst drive, and that can cause health issues. The fountain worked for my cat.
Get your cat a fountain. There is a ton of benefits. I have this one. it's dishwasher safe. http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Pet-Stainless-Fountain-Raindrop/dp/B0037NKDSG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1409707980&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=cat+fountain
My cats have had UTIs before and we switched them to Hills c/d wet food. We also have a water fountain for them which encourages them to drink more water. Here’s the link for the one we have, it’s great: https://www.amazon.ca/Pioneer-Pet-Stainless-Fountain-Raindrop/dp/B0037NKDSG?th=1&amp;psc=1
I've got this tiny fountain, and my cats generally don't spill a drop as long as I keep it clean.
God forbid a floof of fur gets in there, though, then they go mad trying to "fish" it out... but that's about the only problem I've run into. They both really love drinking from it, probably the single best investment I've made for my cats.
Chiming in with another cat water fountain rec:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037NKDSG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9u02BbDA8VNVJ
Its stainless steel and dishwasher safe. We wash it then replace the water once a week. Our cat started out drinking from the reservoir part but now she only drinks from the burbling part. Haven't had any problems with wet neck ruff
Read this. I bought the water fountain, feed her Instinct brand dry food (just got an Amazon subscription delivery today), got a 7 foot tall cat tower for her to lounge on and use Special Kitty Multiple Cat Scoopable Clumping Cat Litter, 40 lb (out of stock online, but should be available at your local store). I use about one bag of cat food every two months and one box of litter a month. The litter pan is the cheapest one available at Wal*Mart, around four bucks IIRC. My vet expenses have been nil on this kitteh. I did two rounds of ear mite treatments which cost around ten bucks when I first took her in, that's it.
I have a question on "open loop water adjustment." I posted a blurb in the Q&A yesterday about how I use an aquarium GH/KH test kit when I brew from tap water to help estimate the alkalinity and hardness. I then plug these numbers into the Brewer's Friend Water Calculator to see how much salt/acid/acidulated malt to add. (The code for my latest beer, a bock is 44XKCVF if you want to take a look at my stuff) I did guess on the pH, but I know from talking to our local micro and other homebrewers that our water pH is a bit higher due to our city using slaked lime to reduce hardness.
I had to add a bit of gypsum and chalk as well as acidulated malt and 88% lactic to get my water where I was shooting for. Am I doing this correctly?
Also, I do a double "dunk sparge" with my BIAB setup to get a little bit higher efficiency since I only have a 7 gallon kettle. I added about 2.8 mL of 88% lactic to my 3.5 gallons of sparge water to neutralize the alkalinity. This is the first time I've done that and I haven't noticed any tannic flavors before, but I thought I would see what happens. If someone that knows more than me would be able to comment on that it'd be great.
I'm really planning on doing most of that for my darker beers. For lighter brews I've been getting RO water from a local aquarium store and basically treating it like distilled water in terms of salt additions, etc.
Water conditioners detoxify chlorine (and also heavy metals/ammonia depending on the conditioner), but they do not change the general hardness.
120 ppm = 7 dGH, which is just a touch on the harder side and should be totally fine for a betta.
However, test strips are super inaccurate - you will need a liquid test kit instead, GH and KH tests sold separately.
A good way to test the water is the API GH and KH Test Kit. Scaling is a combination of GH and KH. You need general hardness and carbonate hardness to be present to create scale. The softener will eliminate one of those, if it is working.
Testing the grinder is tougher. Best way is to find a local home barista and have them bring their grinder over (beer, scotch, BBQ or a combination is normally a sufficient lure). Sometimes just one little tweak can make a difference.
And if you have a few spare days to read, on my website,www.EspressoMyEspresso.com, check out this article: 12 - EASY GUIDE TO BETTER ESPRESSO AT HOME.
Also, try a different coffee from a different source.
You need to test it
kh gh
ph
Put tap water in the test tubes read the directions to see how many drops to add, add and shake and wait a few minutes and read.
Looks to be even cheaper now!
http://www.amazon.com/Go-Pet-Club-Tree-Beige/dp/B003WGGWQA?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
Go Pet Club Cat Tree, 50W x 26L x 72H, Beige https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WGGWQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oJ06BbY7FDWZJ
I literally just bought this and put it up a few days ago. 100% worth the money and I love it. My two cats sleep at the top and my 7 month lab/shepherd lost interest in them!
If you just need a new cat scratcher than a 2x4 and some sisal rope will do you. I can second GoPetClub trees though. I got this crazy monstrosity for $75. Way more than my two cats needed but it was a preemptive apology for me getting a dog.
Strongly recommend anyone with a Maine coon (and anyone who likes to help their purrkid out grooming) gets a furminator
I know they are a bit pricy, but They are the best things ever and worth their weight in gold. My mom has a Norwegian snow cat and it’s the most gigantic fluff ball ever and the furminator is a godsend
I used to be terribly allergic to cats, but with a combination of drugs and anti-allergen products I hardly ever get any symptoms from my two cats. Some drugs work well for certain people and others don't work at all. You just have to try them until you find what works for you, but here are some of the common ones:
Loratadine (Claritin), cetirizine (Zyrtec), and fexofenadine (Allegra). These are newer antihistamines that are supposedly non-drowsy and last all day. I take cetirizine since loratadine doesn't seem to do anything for me and fexofenadine costs about twice as much.
Diphenhydramine (Benadryl) and chlorpheniramine. These are older antihistamines that work differently than the three mentioned above. I find them to be much more effective, but they only last a few hours and make me sleepy. Useful if you get allergic before going to bed. Oh and here's a tip: if you're buying generic diphenhydramine, look in both the allergy section and the sleep-aid section. The same exact drug is sold as allergy relief and as a sleep-aid, and sometimes one is cheaper than the other.
Cromolyn nasal spray (NasalCrom). This drug works by preventing the release of histamine in the first place, so it's best when taken prior to cat exposure. For me, this is the most effective one since most of symptoms are in the nose. It's also safe to use in combination with other allergy medicines.
In addition to medication, there are products you can buy that reduce the amount of cat allergen in the home:
ADS Anti-allergen Spray can stain some fabrics, so they make a different formula that doesn't stain but requires more frequent application.
Allerpet C is a solution that you can apply to your cat to make her less allergenic.
And I'm sure there are many more. Brushing your cat regularly can reduce shedding, which should help with allergies since cats lick themselves and the Fel d 1 protein comes from the saliva. I recommend a FURminator.
If you are planning on getting a cat, you might want to look into the different cat breeds as some are less allergenic than others. I've also read that on average female cats and cats with lighter coloured fur tend to be less allergenic, although I'm not sure if this is definitively true.
And even if none of this works, I'd say that having cats is worth putting up with a few allergies!
These would fit better and stay.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002CZQ1TA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482465237&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=dog+hearing+protection
one of these bad boys
I like the plastic space pod, personally. Haven't had much luck with cloth ones! My past two rats have used this pod consistently and without really chewing on it.
amazon! I just bought one from there and my doods loooove it! http://www.amazon.com/Lixit-Critter-Space-Pod-Large/dp/B002X2NBNQ
I get all my fleece from JoAnn stores. They often have fleece at 50% off per yard, so you can buy it in bulk and use it as needed. Any large fabric store will have lots of fleece in stock (I just prefer JoAnn because that's the best one I have in the area I live in). I'm sure you know this already, but just in case, please don't use cedar or pine chips as bedding for your rats; it's harmful to them. You can use fleece or aspen chip bedding (but freeze the aspen for 48 hours prior to use to make sure it's free of parasites).
I buy many rat toys on Amazon, and make some myself. If you're buying any kind of wooden rat toy, do be aware that many of them are made from soft woods like pine and cedar, which are super bad for rat respiratory systems. Hardwood toys are usually safe—just make sure it's not a combination wood that also has pine or cedar in it along with the hardwood. I personally do not buy wood toys on amazon, because the products often don't list what kind of wood they're made of. The only wood product I buy on Amazon is bags of untreated apple branch chewing sticks. I'll link you to some rat-safe toys and accessories I buy on amazon below! :)
Kaytee Lava Ledge
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00176F466/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s03?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
15" Chin Spin - Small Animal Exercise Wheel - Handmade in USA (Expensive, but it's the very best and safest wheel for rats.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ6SDBQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Bright Starts Lots of Links Accessory Toy (Great for hanging things up in the cage.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ABZGU2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1
Small Animal Activity Toy Cotton Rope Net For Rat and Ferret Pet Bed for Parrot and Hamster Parrot
https://www.amazon.com/Animal-Activity-Cotton-Ferret-Hamster/dp/B0777NWKT9/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519011945&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=rat+rope+net
Kaytee Igloo Hideout, Large
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068K132/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
ACCO Binder Clips, Medium, 2 Boxes, 12/Box (A7072050) (If using fleece as the bedding/liner in your cage, this helps to secure fleece to the Critter Nation pans.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TQ8FDB8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Dr. Bronner's Pure-Castile Liquid Soap - Baby Unscented, 32oz. (I don't use any scented products with my rats since rat respiratory systems are so fragile, so this is the non-scented liquid soap I use to wash my hands and their non-fabric toys.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DAI76TC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Pawliss Teeth Grinding Lava Block for Hamster Chinchilla Rabbit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HGHA6VW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Aspen/Booda Corporation BBX56134 Byrdy Cable Cross Bird Toy, Medium
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WRHTG6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
200g(7oz) Apple Sticks Pet Snacks Chew Toys for Guinea Pigs Chinchilla Squirrel Rabbits Hamster(About 50-70 Sticks) by MAIYUAN (The only wood product I buy on Amazon.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WLL641Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Ware Manufacturing Fun Tunnels Play Tube for Small Pets (Medium.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LUMU9M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Ware Manufacturing Plastic Scatterless Lock-N-Litter Small Pet Pan- Colors May Vary (Regular size, not jumbo.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003SLICDA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
JW Comfy Perch for Birds (Large, 36".)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AR754/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Lixit Critter Space Pod 2 Large (You can hand these on the ceiling of the Critter Nation. My boys LOVE these!)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002X2NBNQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Lixit Lbg-16 Glass Small Animal Bottle 16 Oz (16oz is always best for rats because of the bigger water spout. I've found that smaller bottles are a struggle for my boys to get water out of, so I only use the small ones for rat carriers/transporter cages. Tip: filtered water is best for rats, so if you can, get a Britta water filter.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WYCFK0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Yummy Time Tiny Small Stoneware Pet/Dog Bowl
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAUMYDC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I buy Harlan Teklad (Envigo) food blocks for my rats, which is one of the top two for rats (the other is Oxbow Regal Rat). Harland Teklad is hard to find though, so I buy mine through this animal rescue:
http://weecompanions.org/healthy-food
If you get these blocks, freeze them to extend their shelf life, and take them out from the freezer as needed to fill your ratties' bowls. Harlan Teklad is great because they have several formulas for rats based on their age, which is super helpful for their health. Young rats up to 8 months usually eat Harlan Teklad 2016 (16% protein), and after 8 months they eat Harlan Teklad 2014 (14% protein).
Also, I don't have a link for this, but the best laundry detergents to use to wash your rats' cloth toys or bedding with is one that's non-scented and is sensitive on skins.
Um, if I think of anything else, I'll add it. But for now, it's already a ton. :P Enjoy!
(And feel free to message me if you have any questions!)
I think a lot of things are kind of up to your rat's preference. I wouldn't bother buying a wheel unless you knew they loved it because most rats don't care about running on wheels. I'd invest in a Sputnik because it's universally loved by rats. https://www.amazon.com/Lixit-Critter-Space-Pod-Large/dp/B002X2NBNQ You'll need some sort of bedding. I've put fleece covers down and litter box trained my rats. I tried all sorts of bedding but I really ended up liking Aspen shavings (which is the only safe wood for rats because the others give off scents that irritate their breathing). PVC pipe joints are good for them to run through and hide. http://www.allrightmachinery.com/pvc/pipe-fitting2.jpg My rats like Lava ledges to climb on and this helps wear down their claw without clipping. https://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-Lava-Ledge-Assorted-Colors/dp/B00176F466 Also put some bricks near their water/food bowl to help whittle their nails down too. Binder clips and safety pins are your friends for hanging things. A ton of my stuff is from the dollar store so I can just throw it away when it gets really disgusting/torn up. And plenty of soft fleece pieces/fabric scraps for them to snuggle and nest in. Save any cardboard boxes you can because they love playing in them.
When I boarded my girl rats at Andy's all four of them fit fine in that cage. Some stuff I'd recommend are get tons of Lava ledges so they can have different heights in the cage. They have Big ones and Small ones. The small ones are only available online now I think. My girls love to hop from one to another plus it will help file down their nails and teeth. I currently have 10 big ones and 8 small ones in my 2 cages. A hammock is great but you can also put a space pod in there too as another place to sleep or chill. I just got one for my girls but I'm waiting for a hammock to be chewed down before putting it in there. I also got The Bandit Bridge and my girls love that too. I mainly use it as a safety net in case they fall off one of the ledges. I'd rather have them land on a soft thing than the igloo or hard cage bottom. Basically I'm cutting the fall in half.
Also if you still want to get another cage I recommend The Rat Manor I have it and my girls LOVE it! It's big enough for 4 rats so 3 would fit perfectly plus it has a metal bottom so they can't chew holes in it. Other than that you seem to be on the right track. Just spend a lot of time with them and get them used to you kinda like a re-introduction to humans and they should turn out fine. They may have been scared of the kids and all the noise but it sounds like they should perk up to you in no time after they get used to their new surroundings. Good luck and keep us posted!
It's a rat sputnik. Link
I avoid plastic. It can cause cat acne, and a plastic fountain will never really be clean. I used to have a white ceramic one but it was hard to keep clean. I switched over to this and love it.
I have this one and it's super easy to clean (just a top piece and a bottom piece and both are steel so you can scrub them really good).
After 2 years the pump burnt out, but they sell the replacement pump for 15 bucks.
That is a very nice fountain... Bonus that I think it's pretty ascetically pleasing for humans also. I plan on upgrading soon to a porcelain one... For now my two cats like this one as well...
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Pet-Stainless-Fountain-Raindrop/dp/B0037NKDSG/ref=zg_bs_2975263011_2
Get one that isn't as tall and has a wide base and us made of heavier materials. Something like these
Pioneer Pet Stainless Steel Fountain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037NKDSG
PetSafe Drinkwell Pagoda Fountain
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BD3UN8C
The filters are meant to be changed periodically, just like filters in anything else. Some people just rinse the filter off and stick it back in the fountain, and then wonder why it has science experiments growing in it. You can back flush it a couple of times, but then it's time to change it.
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Pet-Stainless-Fountain-Raindrop/dp/B0037NKDSG/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1348170912&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=cat+fountain
That one works well for our cats, although only one of them likes the running water. The other drinks from the bowl. We wash it once a week or so and do filter maintenance once a month. Works fine.
Pet lover pro-tip!
Have any of you tried the pet water fountains? I have tried a few and really hate the plastic ones. For one, they are plastic. Two, the design is always such that they really need to be washed daily because they clog with pet fur really badly. Three, not easy to get in the dishwasher (some you can't get in the dishwasher at all).
A couple of months ago I can across this fountain on Amazon and decided to try it. And it's amazing! It's a really simple design so it goes together and comes apart in minutes. The design is such that it does not clog with pet fur the way the original ones did. And it goes in the dishwasher easily.
Highly recommend to my fellow pet lovers!
OK, so here's one problem - you are not going to get accurate results with test strips. But, I don't know what your finance situation is, so maybe you need to use them for now and anything is certainly better than nothing. If you have a few bucks to spend, get a test kit like this one, which will test much of what you want to know about except water hardness, but this one does that.
Your nitrates aren't bad. Before we talk about things to try, I have to say the following: if you change more than one thing at a time you will never know what's working and what isn't. Try one change at a time, give each change two or three days to make a difference, keep a written record with dates (and time, if you're obsessive like me), and don't just write down what you change. Try to include things you observe, and try to take cell phone pics so you can accurately measure change. Be patient, observe the tank daily, be patient, and try to be patient.
An 8 hour split may be too much with the Nicrew, but it really isn't way overboard. I do a 7 hour split but I have no experience with Nicrews, I have two Finnex Planteds and a BeamsWork, and I don't know when you changed to the Nicrew and your 8 hour regimen. You could try a blackout for a few days, and then back to your current regimen.
If your light is sitting atop your tank you can try raising it a bit. A 10 gallon is what? 12 inches tall? You can jerry rig something to raise the light, or you can get something like this, or you can hang the light from the ceiling with fishing line. If you have aquascaping tweezers you can pull algae out manually, or you can use a toothbrush; not to brush the leaves, but to grab the algae in the bristles and pull it out. I've tried all of these things in different tanks, with good results. I've also used Seachem Excel, but only once or twice a week, not daily as the directions say. It definitely helps, but it isn't a cure and it only kills the algae, like the Algaefix you are already using. If you use Excel, wash your hands afterward. There are some scary and, to my mind not very scholarly, articles on the web about the chemical used in Excel, which Seachem claims is a different isomer than what it actually uses. But wash your hands afterward anyway - it's a simple precaution. Keep this in mind: if you use either one, it will make it harder to tell if the other things you are doing are having any effect. So, maybe bite the bullet for a couple weeks to try the other things, and if you start making headway you can use just a bit of the Algaefix or Excel to help push things along.
You should also consider how heavily planted your tank is. More plant load is better to out-compete the algae. If you have a lot of plants, you also want to provide them with nutrients or the light is next to useless. A good way to increase the plant load inexpensively and relatively fast is floaters. Check the AquaSwap forum here on reddit - /r/AquaSwap/, but keep in mind that you cannot be certain that you will not get snails with the plants, even if the seller claims the plants are dipped before shipping. Snails are not a bad thing, and would probably be helpful for you. Another inexpensive way to beat algae! And, if they get out of hand you just stick a stainless steel fork in a hunk of cucumber, put it in the tank for about two hours, grab a zip-loc baggie and hold it in the tank, grab the fork, put the cucumber and snails in the bag, pull the fork out of the cucumber, and close the bag. Into the garbage with it. It will be covered with snails.
Getting back to the floaters, they will suck up nitrates, provide shade for your anubias, and you'll be pulling handfuls out of the tank in no time (into the garbage! don't take a chance of letting them into the wild by throwing them in your yard). You can keep the floaters corralled with clear air line tubing and suction cups. Make sure the diameter matches, like these do. Cut a length of hose, heat near one end while holding the end so you can pull it until it comes off, leaving a pointy end that you can now stick into the other end of your length of hose, creating a circle. I use the silicon repair stuff to "glue" it together. This guy shows you a better way to do it, in his second video in the series at 2:45. But if you want to get motivated for your algae war, watch the entire series. You will never be the same. And after that, go learn here.
There are a lot more things you can do, but maybe start with these and keep reading about this stuff whenever you get a chance. Good Luck, and let us know how you make out.
1)Aquarium lights using a quantitative measure known as PAR to help assess the intensity of light at varying levels. In essence, the further you are away from a point source, the more light diffuses and the less intense it becomes, use this chart to verify your PAR levels before considering a medium or high lights plants.
PAR levels of Finnex Fugeray Planted Plus light
2) Do you have algae problems? If not yet, giving any excess light, co2 or ferts will cause algae to thrive in your tank. They will take the excess nutrients and breed like wildfire. You have to strike a balance in your tank as excess of light, co2 or nutrients will be taken up by unwanted algae. Low level lights should be on for 12 hours, medium for about 8 and high for about 6. This is all relative and you need to play with the time to dial it in. The co2 needs to be turned on 2 hours before lights go on so that the plants can begin photosynthesizing right away, and off one hour before the lights go off to give them a "break".
CO2 Basics
Balancing light, ferts and co2
3) Dry fertilizers are a much better, more economical way to go in the long run but you have to do research on this if you plan to use them, as too much can cause algae blooms or worse. Here is a great source for them. There are also other sellers, which are a quick google search away. Remember the upfront cost of $25.00 may wrinkle your nose, but you will literally use these for years if you buy dry ferts in bulk like this.
PPS-PRO fertilizers GLA
Information on Fertilizers and dosing methods
4) Get a GH/KH kit from amazon, it will tell you how hard your water is, and depending on the plants that you want to keep it will indicate how much work that you will need to do to keep them happy.
GH/KH test kit
Basic info on GH/KH
Check out this kit:
API GH & KH TEST KIT Freshwater Aquarium Water Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003SNCHMA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bybCCbHR6HQX2
Gives you a drop wise measurement of hardness and alkalinity (kh/carbonate hardness).
By acidity I meant pH.
You can get a hardness test kit here: API GH & KH TEST KIT Freshwater Aquarium Water Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003SNCHMA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_92KOBbPX5NHAT
Also as a general rule of thumb for most fish, you should keep a ratio of 1:2 Male to Females, so one male for every 2 females.
I put your stuff into Aquadvisor and it said that sword tails are not recommended to be with mollies due to interbreeding possibilities...but it's just a warning.
Also it probably wouldn't hurt to know your Co2 levels, as the fish could be deprived of oxygen. There are charts online that help you figure it out, you basically cross reference your pH with your hardness.
It could have died of stress if all levels are fine.
Here's what I use, maybe someone else can suggest differently as I'm still a novice...
O_O Looks like the price on the API test kit went up! I bought mine for $21, ouch.
You’d be surprised how different your water parameters can be from the same source. I moved 2 miles (same water supply) but the TDS dropped in half and the kH and gH were lower. It’s worth to check yourself and API makes a test for gH and kH.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003SNCHMA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yCv4Db91P83QJ
Please provide more information for your tank. We need size, number of fish, species of fish, and your water parameters (testing with a liquid test kit by API not paper strips those are useless). If you can, please also test for GH and KH values as well. You have plants so at night their respiration flips so they take in oxygen and put off carbon dioxide. This can crash an imbalanced tank and cause drastic daily changes in your pH.
Snails themselves will not harm a fish but in very high numbers will begin to have a significant effect on your bioload and can affect your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.
What species of fish were you mixing with goldfish? It's generally not recommended because goldfish require colder temperatures than most other fish and put off far too much ammonia for them to handle.
Staying at the surface indicates stress. If they're also gulping water at the surface then you have an oxygen deprivation issue. Did you suddenly add more fish than normal? It's possible your tank was already maxed out for bioload and the extra fish caused it to crash. Adding to many fish at once can also cause problems as your current bacteria colony needs to adjust to the higher amount of waste being produced.
I have never come across a product that claimed to rid a tank of nitrates that worked. At best, they can prevent more nitrates from being produced (such as seachem purigen) but they're not cure-alls.
At the very least, do a 50% water change and see if they improve. Get the test kits I mentioned ASAP and start testing your water on a weekly basis. You can do hundreds of tests with a single kit so they're actually less expensive than paper strips in the long run.
API Master Test Kit.
GH and KH test kit.
They look like it might be ich. Have they been puffing their gills out or rubbing on things? Are they darting back and forth? You could check out Goldfish Emergency and see if the symptoms match. Sometimes anti-ich medicine won't work if you don't clean the tank thoroughly enough.
Also, I can tell you that you have too many fish in there. That might be okay for the fantails, but the comets put you over capacity. Goldies also like water between 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit, so if you can try and lower the temperature a bit slowly. Only a degree every few hours.
In addition, are you checking amonia, nitrites, nitrates, and pH? If not, you need to go and get a tester kit. i also strongly reccomend a GH & KH test kit as well as your goldies will be much happier with proper water hardness and if they are sick it will also help them heal more quickly.
Here’s a good GH/KH kit. Costs like $7. test kit
I got a cat tree in Amazon a year ago it has aged well and my cats love it, I got this one from a different seller at my country:
https://www.amazon.com/Go-Pet-Club-Tree-Beige/dp/B003WGGWQA/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494690763&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=cat+tree
I don't know about this particular one, but I got a really nice one on amazon for $90 and free delivery to my house, which was nice because it weighs a lot. Mine has little rooms with openings like this one but it also has open platforms that they like a lot better. My three cats love it. Here's the one I got Go Pet Club Cat Tree, 50W x 26L x 72H, Beige https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WGGWQA/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_cAf4yb5YQZHWJ
I have one of these which I've owned for almost 3 years now(the one I bought is a different company and not Go Pet Club. http://www.amazon.com/Go-Pet-Club-Tree-Beige/dp/B003WGGWQA/ref=zg_bs_2975248011_3
I just bought this massive thing about 2 months ago. Both trees are connected by a board bridge. http://www.amazon.com/Go-Pet-Club-Furniture-106-Inch/dp/B0015EZEW4/ref=sr_1_46?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415998702&amp;sr=1-46&amp;keywords=cat+tree
My youngest one loves the things and I placed a wooden board across from one to another for a bridge. If pics are wanted I can post some. They both get used and the first one has held up really well.
Bought mine at Amazon for $78, 😭
Go Pet Club Cat Tree, 50W x 26L x 72H, Beige https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WGGWQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dKjozbWFZNHFV
If you have construction skills they are likely easy to make but are far from flimsy, they are expensive but need to be of solid construction at least in my house where leaping from floor to the top is a thing and anything not sturdy would tumble.
This is the 2nd tower I bought him http://www.amazon.com/Go-Pet-Club-Tree-Beige/dp/B003WGGWQA
The first was slightly smaller, fewer levels and maybe $70 if I remember correctly
This is the one i bought: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WGGWQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_Cg.YzbZDCVBBR
furminator is always a good one. this is the one I have and works well for my short and long hair cats.
https://smile.amazon.com/FURminator-Long-Hair-deShedding-Large/dp/B0040QS3PO/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465405051&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=furminator+for+cats
The furminator, it's sold as a brush for cats and dogs but it works great on rabbits too https://www.amazon.com/FURminator-Long-Hair-deShedding-Large/dp/B0040QS3PO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=furminator%2Bfor%2Bcats&amp;qid=1558500913&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=fur&amp;sr=8-3&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
Education. That's like asking, why would a doctor know more about health than the salesman at CVS? Because a veterinarian is actually required to be educated on the subject of animals, including animal fur. Groomers don't even have to have any sort of education or license.
Edit: These Amazon ratings/reviews might be more helpful to people.
http://www.amazon.com/FURminator-Long-Hair-deShedding-Large/dp/B0040QS3PO#customerReviews
I'm kind of a new cat owner myself, but that said I remember looking for a cat pretty recently :)
Typically shorter hair cats shed less, but my domestic short-hair still sheds more then I expected. Regular grooming with a good brush (my Furminator is amazing) keeps my lap pretty much hair free after petting sessions.
I wouldn't worry too much about the washing thing. Any smell associated with having a cat around is typically coming from the litter box, not the cat, and that can be controlled to some degree by changing the litter more frequently and putting it in another room. Unless they get into something, his/her regular grooming should keep her pretty clean. My cat hates it, but do give her a bath every 3-4 weeks mostly because I love how soft shampoo makes her fur.
As long as you try to make your house a nice place for a cat to live (toys, scratching post, maybe even a cat tree) cats can do very well being inside only. Without toys and something to exercise their claws on they can terrorize your stuff and your furniture though so be careful.
There is some correlation between breeds and personalities, and I did a TON of research before I went out to look for a cat, but what it really comes down to is the individual animal you end up getting. If you are adopting from an animal shelter (they have lots of great animals at least here in the states) just talk to the people that work there. They typically love the animals a lot and working with them everyday gives them a lot of insight into each of their personalities. I went to the shelter trying to get a particular kitten I found on their website, but he wouldn't come out to see us and was all around pretty grumpy. I talked to the shelter workers and explained what I was looking for, they introduced me to Winkie, and wouldn't trade her back for anything :)
Here are three products that I find to be invaluable in my life as a cat lady:
FURminator: This little tool removes so much hair, you'd think you could make another cat out of it. It's really useful during shedding season. They make them in various sizes for long and short-haired cats, as well as for dogs.
SmartCat Ultimate Scratching Post: This post is very solid and sturdy, which is great, since my cats like to launch themselves at it after running full speed from the other side of the house. If it were to be knocked over, they would freak out and never use it again. We've had it for three years with two cats that have all their claws, and it's still in great shape.
World's Best Cat Litter: This corn-based litter is more expensive than its clay-based counterparts, but it has many advantages: 1) It's not harmful to your cats if they ingest it--this can happen during grooming, or if your cat just randomly eats it. Same goes for kids. 2) It generates much less dust and offers good odor control. 3) In my own anecdotal experience, it lasts longer. 4) It's flushable, which is especially nice if you live in a small apartment (but I don't recommend flushing from a sub-level toilet that uses an ejection pump--learned that the hard way). 5) It's better from an environmental standpoint, since the clay for litter is gathered via strip mining.
Here's what I have so far and my quick write up.
My dad started the tomato plant that I am using in soil. He had too many for his garden, so I used that instead of starting one from seed in rockwool. My next plant will be started from seed.
I picked up a 5 gal bucket and Lid from Home Depot. <$5.
I cut a hole in the Lid to fit the 3" Net Cups. I put one right in the center. I quickly found out the cup it too small to support the plant so I had to use a support stick. I just bought this 6" net cup bucket lid.
The plant is supported in Expanded Clay balls. I chose this material as apposed to 'Hydroton, Coco coir, Viagrow stones, pearlite...' because from my very little research I found the clay to be the most environmentally friendly and easiest to use, disclaimer: I could be very wrong here.
The nutrient solution used General Hydroponics Maxi Grow. Simple to use, add X scoops per X gal of water. I am about to switch to Maxi Bloom. She is flowering and starting to produce fruit. I do now know when the best time to switch solutions. I am learning by experiment here.
To keep the nutrient solution oxygenated, I used this Air pump,two of of these air stones, and tubing. Any items will do, I used this products because I know an employee of Penn Plax and got them for cost $. Any pump will work, I got a two outlet pump for future expansion.
You should also be sure to have the correct pH for your particular plant. Here is a chart and a great site. I used this pH Test Kit and pH adjust.
It's that simple. Right now the plant is outside and gets about 8 hours of sun. I plan on keeping it outside as long as possible, then will bring it in and have to choose a light source for it.
tl;dr What I used for my first DWC tomato plant experiment. Step 1: Click all links above. Step2: Buy. Step 3: Tomatoes
Edit: Also, Watch this video
If I may make a recommendation; buy some of that stuff from amazon. You'll save some money. These are Amazon's prices:
etc
Cool. Maybe getting a sponge filter is good since it's good to learn other filtering options. It seems like sponge filters need some air pump and airline (please correct me if I am mistaken).
Would the following, airline and pump, be the only additional things I need?
https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Aquariums-Flexible-Standard/dp/B0002563MW/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=0V8RYSC7JNHZTRN6D913
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77851-Whisper-Pump-10-Gallon/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511318178&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=air+pump+fish
Petco currently has a $1 per gallon sale up to 29 gallons, I believe. If you wanted a bigger aquarium now'd be a good time to get a bigger aquarium. Your choice of fish is very limited with a 5 gallon. You can either get a betta or some shrimps.
Take your time and do research. No need to rush. It's always better to do your research and go to a pet store knowing what you want rather than impulsively buying anything. Most pet store staff also generally don't know much more than the average person about fish so take anything they say with a grain of salt.
EDIT: You need an airpump, not an air stone for the sponge filter! That's a really big mistake I made.
These are what I ordered for my 20 gallon aquarium, the size of the air pump is what matters so get a 10 gallon air pump for your 5 gallon aquarium unless you decide to upgrade. I'm also on a budget so these seem to be the best items for those on a budget
Sponge filter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051XIN78/ref=psdcmw_2975472011_t2_B005VAFGKI
Air pump:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YJ4N6/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I35X82DPLWBEQ2&amp;colid=74EPT83Y85GU&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
Air tubing:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002563MW/ref=pd_aw_fbt_199_img_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=C7MX7DQQ39GFPW8XDMM3
A sponge filter is great for shrimp and bettas. It doesn't produce much flow, and won't trap any small shrimplets!
The actual filters are very cheap, a decent (and silent) airpump costs about 10-15$. You'll also need some airline tubing.
If you can, try to add some of the old filtermedia to the new one (or tie it to the new sponges). You can also let both filters run simultaneously for a couple of weeks.
Ha, love the name idea!
I'm not sure if you have read around and are aware of the proper care for a betta (if you have then ignore me) but if you haven't I'll go ahead and say a two gallon bowl isn't the best place for him, and is also another reason for the downvotes. He can live in it but he's not going to thrive. He does need a heater and a filter, if you have those then that is awesome, if not you can even get them as a broke college student.
If I can tell you one thing I'm positively sure of, there is always room for a fish tank. ;)
I'm just going to link you a cheap list of good stuff for little moneys:
Sponge Filter
Air Pump
Airline Tubing I bet you can find this in stores for less. Also less as an add on item.
Check Valve Most likely less at a store.
Heater, Heater 2 Costs a good bit more but I really love these.
Tank, Tank 2 There are many other options to look at.
If you go with the cheapest it will run you just about $58 with prime.
Hope the list gives you something to think about. If you've got any questions at all I'd be more than happy to answer them if I can.
Edit* Added a link.
I plan to grow larger variant tomatoes such as beefsteak and want to make sure this kind of layout and these components will be good enough for that purpose.
Here is the list of components I'm planning to use:
&#x200B;
The remaining plumbing components I need I'll pick up from my local Home Depot.
It’s 1/4inch airline tubing, you can buy some on amazon for super cheap!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002563MW?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
I am so sorry, big hugs to you.
My Murphy is laying beside me, I'll give him a scratch for you.
I know Murph would love to destroy this stuffies are his fave.
More hugs and love to you.
My guess is Jazmine!
My duck's name is Pig and my sister's bunny's name is Skunk!
A bunch of squirrels to kill!
What exactly is Lush?
Soapy Paws
Thanks for the contest!
Toys:
I didn't know about the 2 Week Shutdown when I got my dog and while things turned out okay in the end, I definitely think it would have been VERY beneficial to do it. So best of luck and please update us with pics when she gets home!
My dog is/was the same way. It took several months to get him to understand/play with toys. It finally started to work when we purchased the Hide-A-Squirrel toy. I would place small pieces of lunch meat/pupperoni in the base and stuff the squirrels ontop of it. So he was forced to remove the squirrels to get to the treats. Now he will play with the squirrels by themselves as well with ropes, and a frisbee. He still doesn't get balls (he just looks at them) but maybe with more time.
I have a GSD mix and the only thing (other than hide and seek) is that I bought a chicken and barn dog game that she loves. Here's something similar:
http://www.amazon.com/Plush-Puppies-Hide-A-Squirrel-Pet-Large/dp/B0002I0O60/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1382228088&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=squirrel+game+dog
Generally, mine is only into it if I give it to her--so I doubt she'd play with it that much while I'm at work. If he's food motivated (mine isn't) there are a bunch of toys that will dispense food while requiring him to figure out a puzzle. Here are a couple examples (but there are a ton more):
http://www.amazon.com/Ethical-Seek-A-Treat-Shuffle-Bone-Puzzle/dp/B0038WP1YC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1382228265&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=dog+food+puzzle
http://www.amazon.com/Dog-Games-Star-Spinner-Treat/dp/B00440D8GU/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1382228265&amp;sr=8-10&amp;keywords=dog+food+puzzle
Good luck!
My doxies absolutely refuse to leave these guys in the log.
Edit: context
PetSafe ScatMat Indoor Pet... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007NTBJ6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Does your vanity have the space for a ScatMat? We had issues with one of our cats counter surfing in our kitchen so we gave that a try. After a few shocks, he’s not up on the counter nearly as much anymore. Not a 100% fix for us but it was worth the $40! It may work wonders for you!
You could also give this a try. https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-ScatMat-Indoor-Training-Electronic/dp/B0007NTBJ6
best rated one i could find and the brand is well known
I think so. Looking at this feeder you should be able to leave the aquarium in the classroom during the school year. I would obviously test the feeder before having to rely on it, but you should be ok. Also fish typically will be ok going a little while without food. One thought though, depending on how cold your classroom will get during the winter, you might want to consider buying a second heater (not a bigger heater, always safer to have multiple lower power heaters, just in case they fail ).
That would leave you with having to move the tank only for summer. This post outlines the process for moving an aquarium link.
On a separate note, I found my old regulator. I'll test it in the next week to make sure it all works, but it was fine when I packed it away. So if you want to do CO2, just PM me and I can send it off to you. I think I have a spare diffuser as well, so all you would have to buy is some hose and a tank.
I use this one any time I'm out of town for a few days. I had to test it a bit to get the proper amount put into the tank, but I haven't had any problems with it once I had it calibrated correctly.
I personally own several aquariums and I love using these when I go on vacation. I have gone up to 2 weeks and came back with it having at least 20% full on a 75 gallon. Of course I wouldn't advise leaving research animals unattended that long!
https://www.amazon.com/Everyday-Feeder-Programmable-Automatic-Dispenser/dp/B001F2117I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483475753&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=automatic+fish+feeder+eheim
Things I like about it,
Potential Issues,
a) I taped the hatch to the desired width and haven't had issues since.
Good luck!
The eheim auto-feeder gets decent reviews. I do caution you to not put too much food in there, just in case the feeder errors out and releases most of the food all at once.
I've been looking in to getting one now that I've got 5 tanks up and running & while I haven't used it first-hand the Eheim is highly recommended. The best tip I've heard is that in any feeder, you're better off using pellet or micro-pellets instead of flake since it's less likely to clog.
How long will you be gone for?
If you are going to be gone a week or less it may be that you do not need a fish feeder. In the wild fish do not feed like they do everyday in our homes.
I have used both the Fish Mate F14 (as LieutenantJB mentioned) and the Eheim Everyday Fish Feeder.
The Fish Mate if you have larger food items like sinking algae wafer it will accommodate some of those. You are limited to 14 feedings total, meaning a max of 14 days. Flakes and small pellets can be rather messy as the divider bracket just sits on the faceplate and so small foods can escape or flakes can slide under the rotating edges. You do have more control over portion size though.
The Eheim is a fairly standard drop feeder based on how many pellets/flakes will fit through the opening which you adjust for size. This can mean that your portions are a bit irregular. It does allow up to 4 times a day drops and is fairly easy to set up as far as setting times for feeding. It will run until the food bin is empty and the food bin will hold a substantial amount. If you are going to be gone longer than 14 days or are looking for something to use every day and just worry about refilling on maintenance days this is a good option. It is not a good option for sinking algae wafers.
Yes, it works extremely well for our cats! http://www.amazon.co.uk/Catit-50730-CatIt-Senses-Circuit/dp/B001LWRFW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404779952&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=cat+ball+toy
A window perch would be a good idea if she likes observing the outside world.
Also this one is a favorite of my two cats, I often find them playing with it and its by far their favorite toy, doesn't need an interaction from you. I actually bought all of its accessories (3 or 4 of them). http://www.amazon.com/Catit-Design-Senses-Circuit-Original/dp/B001LWRFW2.
Goodluck and good for you for caring about your cat's wellbeing and needs!
Did you see this toy?
http://www.amazon.com/Catit-Design-Senses-Circuit-Original/dp/B001LWRFW2/ref=sr_1_11?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457463131&amp;sr=1-11&amp;keywords=cat+toys
That poor kitten looks horrified.
Sassy and Martu stop fighting!
I say give them foraging opportunities/toys! My ex always told me cats don't forage, but damn it, they'll learn to get good at it. It keeps them busy and can detract attention from each other. I really like the kibble balls pet stores sell, so back when I had two cats, I would load the kibble ball up for one and hide kibble all over the apartment for the other. I really like the Catit circuit too - both the ball and any pieces of kibble in there will give them something to do, and it can turn into a collaborative activity.
Other than that, yes, Feliway!
fear cuts deeper than swords
[Here is a neat book about Oregon.] (http://www.amazon.com/Oregon-Curiosities-2nd-Characters-Roadside/dp/0762749717/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1376357656&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=made+in+oregon)
[Here is something made in Oregon.] (http://www.amazon.com/Rise-Shine-Breakfast-Gift-Set/dp/B0011UNLKY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1376357656&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=made+in+oregon)
PS: Are you from Oregon? Also, thank you for the reminder.
You're buying 2 things?
Well, one of them will treat your feline friend, of course! Who else would annoy you endlessly every time you go to pee and fluff all over you when you're cold or sick? Time to appreciate them!
If I do win, Mr. Pixel says thank you very much for the only toy he owns that he can't wedge under the oven or refrigerator. (My sanity would thank you, too).
For my cats, it took a lot of trial and error, but we found that our cats like wand toys best, especially if there was spring that stimulated more than one sense, like a bell or something hard that could be tapped. We really like the neko-fly toys, but those are expensive (like twenty dollars for wand and toy) and we found that the wand wasn't sturdy enough for our cats.
The wand toy only works for ours because we will run down the hallway with it to the bed, where they like to attack it with pillows in strategic locations for optimal pouncing. Also, my backpack is a great barrier because they love the smell of it so will often play around that while a wand toy is in motion.
One of our cats also enjoys playing fetch. We use small stuffed mice. If they have real fur, the cats love it the most but I've found that those last barely a day. I have also used leather straps that I got at hobby lobby. They like chewing on the ends.
For awhile we had a track with a light up ball that they would play with.
Also, the standard laser works. The only problem with that is cats like to chew on things, abs the laser really didn't have that. Give them treats after playing with the laser.
Also, is your cat lazy? We found that when our cats are fatter they are more lazy, but much more active when we started cutting back their food intake. Also, not playing with them near their food dish is useful to, as they will tend to think they are getting fed instead of being played with (will think this if you have set feeding times, mostly).
Finally, you're going to have to try different toys. My cats really like the stuff they can chew on our hold onto. We had foam balls for awhile that basically disintegrated from being chewed up so much (lol!) And also, those craft fuzzy balls were fun. The smaller ones, we found out one of our cats had eaten when we cleaned out the litter box. Since, we've gotten large fuzzy balls.
Oh I also remembered that they liked sniffing and chewing those antlers that you can get dogs. A small one is large for their mouth, and I'd recommend one that was split open, but they liked it a lot. We never let then have it without our supervision though.
Oh, and like I said in my earlier comments, anything that has my sweat on it, they will go insane for. Try running your hands over toys to get them interested.
So, going off that, some dog toys can be just as much fun. Just think like a cat when looking at toys. And don't restrict yourself to just the cat toy section. Try the hobby aisles or the dog aisles.
Sorry I can't be too much help on toys but perhaps these suggestions will help!
It's a Hagen Play Circuit, this is two sets together. One site was about $10 on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LWRFW2/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00
It looks like it's actually on sale right now! https://www.amazon.com/Guinea-Habitat-Cage-MidWest-Inches/dp/B001NJ0DPY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=midwest+guinea+pig+cage&amp;qid=1567017921&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzRkgwNjJMMjlQUkEwJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTQ4NDk3MTlLU043VlpDTkpZOSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTczMTIzRDdHNDQ0OE9KS1VCJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
Sorry the link is giant
These cages are amazing and made to be attached to eachother if you need to expnd. They're also crazy cheap and free shipping on amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Homes-for-Pets-171GH/dp/B001NJ0DPY/ref=br_lf_m_1001059341_1_1_ttl?ie=UTF8&amp;s=pet-supplies&amp;pf_rd_p=1717857762&amp;pf_rd_s=center-3&amp;pf_rd_t=1401&amp;pf_rd_i=1001059341&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=19TGBS34YN4S5R69PWF6
http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Homes-for-Pets-171GH/dp/B001NJ0DPY/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1370931126&amp;sr
This is what I'm rolling with. Hard to find space for it. Aspen bedding and carefresh aren't recommended as it can get stuck in the hedgehog's "plumbing" and cause infections. Its easiest to get fleece blankets like these at Ikea:
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80089927/
Some people make pads out of them fit for the cage, a blanket folded with padding sewn in.
It can be really difficult to get hold of the grids and big enough sheets of Correx, unfortunately. I got my grids from Grendle, and was lucky enough to come across someone living about 2 miles from me on The Guinea Pig Forum who was giving away 2 huge sheets of Correx for free! That forum has a lot of discussion about C&C cages, and it's UK-based, so probably worth signing up there and looking around for any suggestions in your area. Many people seem to contact sign makers to get Correx sheets.
I now need to get stuff for a roof for my cage, and my Correx is a bit worn so I was thinking of getting a new sheet, and I think I'm just going to end up ordering the pre-scored Correx from C&C Guinea Pig Cages, even though it's expensive...measuring/scoring/cutting the Correx was a bit of a pain so this time round I'm happy to pay a bit more for something that is done properly and fits!
You could also consider the Midwest habitat and having 2 joined together rather than a loft, but at that point it would end up more expensive than the custom pre-made C&C cage.
My wiggly pigs have two of these connected together.
Guinea Habitat Guinea Pig Cage by MidWest, 47L x 24W x 14H Inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NJ0DPY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q7WxCbDV9DDCA
One of those cages is the minimum recommended size for two guinea pigs (8 square feet). I think that's cheaper than a C&C cage, considering the price of a pack of panels and a sheet of coroplast. If that cage is a size upgrade for them, I definitely recommend it. You'll see the same cage in a lot of pictures here. Good luck.
If you can afford it I would get two equal size cages... bigger than you have now. If not then using the smaller one for the new pig during the quarantine should be fine.
http://www.amazon.com/MidWest-Homes-for-Pets-171GH/dp/B001NJ0DPY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457989093&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=midwest+cage
If you can... two of those would be great. We have these and they are fantastic. You can join them together when they are ready. And every so often if you have the space or have the extra bit of money you can always buy more and continue to give them the space they need.
Unfortunately that cage is still rather small. it may be long enough but its far too narrow.
something like this would be adequate.
http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Homes-for-Pets-171GH/dp/B001NJ0DPY/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
You may like to think you're enough, but guinea pigs need the company of their own kind which they can understand socially. It is considered animal cruelty to house a guinea pig alone and is illegal on those grounds in several countries. Your guinea pig is likely depressed. You really, really ought to get another one. It's not as much as you think, and you can get a good cage of a good size online for cheaper than the tiny things they sell at PetSmart.
I personally recommend this one, the Midwest Guinea Pig Habitat: https://smile.amazon.com/Guinea-Habitat-MidWest-Panel-Inches/dp/B001NJ0DPY/
There's also this one which is new to me, but even cheaper and of a similar size/design: https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Canvas-Bottom-Cage-Black/dp/B07KB4C1QS/
You can also go the "C&C" route, which you can build yourself for pretty cheap or buy pre-made ones here: https://www.guineapigcagesstore.com/standard-guinea-pig-cages
You can try to connect the old cage with the new cage somehow, or just save the old one as a travel cage or use it as a sort of water/restroom station for floor time, and have it as part of a larger setup with a fenced in area. This combo can also do as a cage in the interim if you need to save up, as small animal play area fences are way cheaper and guinea pigs are naturally a little litterbox trained in that they'll prefer doing their business somewhere familiar, which would be the cage interior in this case.
As for another guinea pig, I would say get another anyway even if you have to have them in a cramped cage for a bit. Cage space can be mitigated to a degree with lots of floor time, loneliness cannot. You will be surprised the difference it makes. When I got my two guinea pigs, I had to keep them separate for a few weeks to make sure neither came to me sick, and while part of it was getting acclimated they spent a lot of time just lying around doing nothing. Once I introduced them and they got bonded, however, they're often interacting with each other, whether it's nibbling on hay or sniffing or squeaking at each other or whatever, and it really is night-and-day the difference.
Other than that, well, there's no good way to say this, but if you can't afford another guinea pig and a bigger cage, then you can't afford guinea pigs. Part of the reason PetSmart sells you these small cages and sells lone guinea pigs is to get people who otherwise really couldn't afford the correct setup to buy one (inadequate) setup anyway for a quick buck, and quote outdated research to defend their policies. Hamsters have it even worse, being essentially marketed as dolls for kids to play with in claustrophobic novelty cages.
Sure! Here is a crappy webcam picture of the rabbit room: http://imgur.com/bp8Gaj8 Apologies for the mess; Sunday is the day I usually clean the bunny room and I haven't done it yet this evening. You can see Scout, the black bun, in her x-pen (the x-pen is kind of in the middle room so there are other toys/another litterbox for Rory and Cyril on the other side) and Rory, the broken bun, hanging out on the right. The cage running along the back is the guinea pig cage. It is two of these attached to each other in a straight line: http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Homes-for-Pets-171GH/dp/B001NJ0DPY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425870229&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=midwest+guinea+pig+cage (Cyril is in the living room and didn't make the photo.) There is a cat tunnel running between the x-pen and the guinea pig cage.
In terms of what is different: it's just basically the level of time, attention, and care that the rabbits need versus the guinea pigs. So, for example, both guinea pigs need unlimited grass hay. Nominally, then, that is the same. But my bunnies are SUPER picky and will go through the hay and pull out all the bits they don't like and put it in the litterbox and pee in. My guinea pigs just eat their damn hay. So the guinea pigs maybe need their hay refilled once or twice a day. For my rabbits, keeping hay in their hay racks is basically a full time job (and we have lots of big hay racks; we're not shy in that department). The level of exercise and interaction they need is a lot greater. Their capacity for destruction is MUCH greater-- the worst thing my guineas have ever done is pee on my lap (rabbits don't do that, though, which is nice, haha). They need more toys and more toy rotation so they don't get bored and tear up the carpets. And, so far, my experience is that their medical needs have been higher. My guinea pigs are five and have been to the vet for a single sebacious cyst + routine check ups, whereas my buns have had to go to the vet quite a few times in a shorter period of time, so having an emergency vet fund is definitely a really good idea (it's a good idea anyways, but even more important).
It's more work, more money, and a lot easier to let buns take over your life.
I hope this doesn't sound really discouraging-- I can't even imagine my life without bunnies anymore. You get a huge amount of love from them. There is nothing better than having a bunny hop on the bed and sit on your chest to watch Netflix with you. They follow you everywhere. And they are so interactive and full of personality.
If I am scaring you too much: One option that may be available to you depending on where you live is to foster for a rabbit rescue, which will give you a much better sense of what life with bunnies is like, with an easy out if it is too much.
...bunnies are really great, though.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001NJ0DPY?cache=6ffe16ea939dc7bce3cda29f30a3e74e&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;qid=1411711456&amp;sr=8-3#ref=mp_s_a_1_3
I believe you may be able to purchase more than one and hook them together if you need the extra space. Might have to modify the mats a little, but I think it could work. But one fits comfortably for my two boys.
As everyone else said. That cage is much to small for 2 piggies. Look into Midwest Guinea Habitat. They are 8 sq ft per cage and you can expand them or connect 2+ cages together. I have 2 for my 2 piggies and they LOVE it. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001NJ0DPY/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/189-1568133-2817612
We got our dog a set of http://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA Helps a lot in loud situations
[MUTR MUFFS] (http://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA)
Mine used to puke all the time. Two things I found that caused it:
She used to puke about 2x's a week regularly. Now it's more like Once every few weeks, if that.
Then it sounds like you need to brush her to get some of that shedding fur out of her coat. I'd highly suggest a FURminator, it's what we use on our cats and it really helps with shedding.
We have two Wegies. One of them is more of a groomer than the other, so she's grooming a combined 28 pounds of cat on a routine basis. She gets severe hair balls and has had to be hospitalized twice because of them. I very, very strongly recommend you get one of these. We try to use it every two or three days. It's unbelievable how much hair it gets off. They're great cats, you'll be very happy with your little one.
https://www.amazon.com/PetFusion-Scratcher-Cardboard-Construction-unverified/dp/B004X6UEH6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=scroll+scratcher&amp;qid=1565708434&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=scroll+sc&amp;sr=8-3
My cat has this one and she naps on it all the time 😊
https://www.amazon.com/Petlinks-49906-Floor-Cat-Scratchers/dp/B01N5RECC1/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=scroll+scratcher&amp;qid=1565708461&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=scroll+sc&amp;sr=8-4
My highest priority item on my apartment list is this couch because I'm moving into my own place soon and don't currently have a place to sit....so yeah....thats....thats an issue.
My highest priority item on my painting list is this book because I really enjoy oil painting and want to learn how to get better at it!
My highest priority item on my hobbies list is Skyrim because my boyfriend really loves The Elder Scrolls and I think he would really love this as a moving in gift.
My higest priority item on my cats list is this cat scratcher because my current one is falling apart and I feel awful about it D:
My highest priority item on my college list is this MCAT review set because I'm hoping to get into medical school and really could use this to study!
My highest priority item on my Owls list is this set of salt and pepper shakers because like I said earlier, I have literally nothing for the apartment, plus owls are my favorite and I really love this!
My highest priority item on my Makeup list is this palette because I really love the colors and everyone keeps gushing over how amazing it is!
Finally, my higest priority item on my Add-On list is cat odor eliminator because let's face it, my cats stink.
Thanks for this fun 'discussion'
https://www.amazon.co.uk/PetFusion-Ultimate-Scratcher-Cardboard-Construction/dp/B004X6UEH6/
I've read it's an emotional/physical stress release for cats to scratch objects. I have a large cardboard scratcher (PetFusion Ultimate Cat Scratcher Lounge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004X6UEH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xh6bAbTDE1WWP) for two brothers, plus scratching posts with carpet and sisal rope, treated with catnip. We have leather and fabric furniture and the cats never touch them because they have comfort objects they can scratch on, and are encouraged to do so. Plus this scratching helps to naturally shorten their claws somewhat. We adopted these brothers at five and gave them plenty of things to scratch. I can't imagine anyone declawing their cat. Vets should be the advocate for education, and explain cat behavior in this regard, and how it's not an option.
Buy this and only this one. Not the cheap version ( I learned the hard way).
PetFusion Ultimate Cat Scratcher Lounge (Walnut Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004X6UEH6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Y99BxbGKTF5KV
I have three cats and they like it so much they don't scratch anything else. Also cut it in half for two scratchers.
All my cats have loved this:
&#x200B;
It's THIS magical lounger.
It really depends on what your cat likes scratching on. Some cats prefer cardboard, some sisal rope, some other surfaces. Some cats prefer horizontal scratching, some prefer angled scratching, and some like to stretch as high as possible.
If you're looking for a "buy it for life" kind of purchase, I recommend this one: https://www.amazon.com/SmartCat-3832-Ultimate-Scratching-Post/dp/B000634MH8/ref=sr_1_13
I've had that one for four years with three cats and it looks the same as it did out of the box.
When it comes to my cats favorite scratchers in the world, their absolute favorite is this one, but it doesn't last as long as the plastic ones because it's corrugated cardboard. You have to replace it about every nine months.
If you want to test out whether they are cardboard scratchers before investing you can get a $7 flat cardboard scratcher here. These will last about 3-4 months.
Only the best thing ever. It's helped save the corners of my sofa
PetFusion Ultimate Cat Scratcher Lounge. [Superior Cardboard an... https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004X6UEH6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_f8Yqyb5KQ67DX
And an FYI...
We have a new adopted cat and got her one of these.
http://www.amazon.com/PetFusion-Ultimate-Scratcher-Lounge-Walnut/dp/B004X6UEH6
Best damn scratching thing ever. She LOVES it. For some reason cats prefer to scratch things that are flat instead of vertical. She sleeps on it...scratches it..loves it.
You can buy such closed ecosystems.
You should get an EcoSphere to add to those, they are pretty freaking sweet.
yes, the tank is completely sealed and self-sustaining. it should last a number of years, even longer if the shrimp inside reproduce which sometimes they are known to do. here's a link to the amazon page. but it's a pretty established company so with google you shouldn't have difficulty finding other vendors that sell them.
its an experiment... my other tank gets 20-25% changes every week or two, has breeding clowns, breeding brittle stars, corals with great growth, etc. ... I only mention it to prove the point that it is entirely possible. FWIW : The fish in the 125 is also 20 years old and only gets fed every week or two, she forages for the rest. I Was shooting for something like a big version of this
I dont recomend that anyone tries this, as I said, its an expermint, but you stated that you personally have never seen a tank go long term with no water changes and you have seen people try and it fails, and I just wanted to tell you that it is possible, but its extreme and its not for everyone.
He's currently living in this guy but I was looking into this one. Please let me know if that's an acceptable size 3gal. Hopefully I can order it so that it'll come by the end of the week!
If you can get her to upgrade to even a 2.5G, then you can use this little internal with relative ease. You can probably get a 2.5G that has a similar footprint to a 1G, just more height, and would allow a bit more space for the linked filter and a heater (examples: my favourite, a 3G or something like this or this).
If you can't, you might be able to fit the above filter into a 1G with the alternate outflow attachment (it comes with a spraybar and just a little nozzle). I've set up that filter and a heater in a 1G cube as a temporary QT before and didn't even leave it as a 1 week QT because it left too little room for anything else/stable parameters.
Aquariums West is on Beatty St downtown, the Fluval Spec line seems up your alley.
This would probably be more cost effective, though.
Ditto with the craigslist idea. Also, you should try to get at least 3 gallons for him. A 5 gallon tank takes up less space than you'd think. You will need a heater (betta's like warm temperatures above 80) and a small filter. They aren't a huge fan of current, so get something with a low flow or you can add things to lower the flow by doing something like this.
Make sure any decorations you get are either silk plants or soft, they can easily tear their fins. You will also need water conditioner to make the tap water safe. Prime is the best out there. It's a little expensive, but goes far.
Here is a 3 gallon tank for under $30 that comes with a filter.
Another one.
Aaaand another. With this one, just don't put the divider in so he will have 2.5 gallons.
Once again, obviously bigger is better, but you are in a dorm so don't worry about it :)
It's the Tetra Cube aquarium kit (tank, lid, LED light, filter). I believe it comes in various sizes and this one is the three-gallon. I got this one off of Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Cube-Aquarium-Kit-3-Gallon/dp/B008CA7W7E) for $30USD and you can probably find it in a pet store or even Walmart. :)
My co-worker bought a betta for the office, and he's currently in a little .7 gallon plastic tank with one little plastic plant. I think he needs a better environment, so I am working on a shopping list based on research.
The tank needs to have a small footprint, and I want something that will be low-maintenance. (Not my fish! But I am willing to help keep Swatch happy and healthy)
I am looking at the Marineland Portrait Glass 5 Gallon - 5 seems quite large for the space, but I don't know if he would be as well off in a 2.5 or 3. (I like the 3 gallon Tetra cube, but it seems to be out of stock everywhere.)
Is this a good tank? I think I will also need a heater for winter, just in case.
I would like to get Swatch some little moss ball and an Anacharis plant or Java Fern. Is 5 gallons enough for a betta and a live plant? (Would 3 be enough for one fish and a live plant?)
At 5 gallons, is that enough for a tankmate (neon tetras? Ghost shrimp?) or should I let him live solo?
Also, I find the little suction-cup hammocks hilarious, so I plant to get one of those. And maybe a floating log.
So:
3 or 5 gallon tank
live plant
toys
tetras?
Does that sound like a good starting setup?
Why something besides a regular aquarium? Is $30 too much?
Rounded 5 gallon
Pretty 3 gallon
$25 5 gallon
:D!
Have you considered investing in....SELF BRUSHY?
I have a Kong Zoom Groom and Savannah looooves it, but she's not so hot on other brushes, and detests the fabled Furminator. I got her the exact self brushy linked above after seeing it here, because it's cheap so why not. She loves rubbing her face & neck on it, particularly while getting scratches elsewhere! I recently had to mount it with screws because the adhesive strips couldn't handle her love <3
I have one that I got on amazon here. I don’t think it’s the same exact one but it’s design is identical
Great job loving your cat! I can tell your cat loves you back! I don't want to take this special time together away from you, but would happily buy you one of these to see if your cat would be willing to use it while you are away? My cat loves it.
Catit Senses 2.0 Self Groomer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3NI2PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_tbfAwbND2S7Z4
Cat self-groomer! Mine loves it, so I can imagine it’ll be popular with most cats!
I was thinking of installing some of these on the edges - https://www.amazon.ca/Catit-Senses-2-0-Self-Groomer/dp/B00D3NI2PG/ref=asc_df_B00D3NI2PG/?tag=googlemobshop-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=293035334305&amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=11723127091590297201&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9000676&amp;hvtargid=pla-314562381589&amp;psc=1
Maybe something like this would help? Can be attached to the wall.
Catit-43152-Senses 2.0 Self-Groomer https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00D3NI2PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ooH8AbNEM9RH1
Link: https://www.amazon.com/Catit-Senses-2-0-Self-Groomer/dp/B00D3NI2PG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525884927&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=catit+corner
Hello I was having the same issues as you in which my water had a low tds (around 40) and high phosphates so I decided to get an ro unit without the di and I am pretty satisfied. [I went with the ro buddie that gets sold on Amazon for about 55 bucks and it's quite cheaper today.] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOG63OY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zAfmzb2AQ0QVQ) I personally prefer this one because I only need ro water every 2 weeks for water changes on my 10 and 20 gallon shrimp tanks so in total only need about 3-4 gallons every 2 weeks. My ro water comes out at a tds of 3 ppm with the ro buddie but if you want it to come out at zero, you can also purchase the di part as well.
Get her going then! LOL
There are cheaper RO units out there but they aren't as efficient or cheap to maintain as the more expensive units. But a cheap RO unit is still better than tap.
$60 RO Buddy
You won't regret the sump, its worth every penny. Allows for stability and places to hide all your equipment. I've ran sumps on all my reefs. Here are some motivation pics and vids.
Old 125 vid
125
Sump
It's RO buddy with the attached DI cartridge.
Aquatic Life RO Buddie Three Stage Reverse Osmosis, 50-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOG63OY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_2AuZXCATMFHrh
Aquatic Life DI Color Changing Mixed Bed Resin Cartridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DSP57BQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_AYC81Ut4FcPwC
Here is the mobile version of your link
Also heat sources should be regulated, just thought of that. I use these: Century Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing, 40-108°F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CmqhDb9DC0KDT
If it's a heat mat, place the probe on the glass above the mat. If it is a heat light, place the probe inside their warm side hide. You can also use a light dimmer for lamps.
Sounds like my ball python when I got her. :) She was pretty tame from day one, I love her <3
https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108%C3%82%C2%B0F/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=heat+mat&amp;qid=1567709698&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyT1RKTEFWSk1MUkdYJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDU3ODgwMUlJSzBRSklUMDlRRiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODg2NjE0MTE0OFdDOU9XQklROSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
I suggest at least this ^ for your heat pad. You have to be very careful with them. Mine would get up to 120 degrees if it wasnt regulated with this. You set the temp for their warm side and put one of their hides over it. My girl doesnt go in there often cuz she prefers her cool hide. I keep warm side at 90 cuz she wouldnt even go in there with anything warmer. Her gradient is 79 to 90. Ambient temp is usually around 80. She has eaten every week I've had her (2 months).
It is possible. Reading through the comments in this post, I see that you just got your noodle. Congrats!
But that as well will play a huge factor. Little friend is stressed out. Just give it a solid week of no touching and no feeding attempts. After that give it another go.
As for the temp. I’ll give you some basic:
-Coconut shedding substrate (replace after a week so that your snake gets comfortable to its surroundings first)
-Thermometers/hygrometer at the bottom of the tank
-Plug the headpad into a thermostat
After your new friend has eaten;
-moisten the new coconut substrate by mixing water into it and mixing it all up with your hands. Leaving dry substrate under its hides. This will be great to help with humidity, which you will see if your house humidity isn’t high, will be a struggle.
My house has an average of about 44, so I have to mix my substrate about every 2 days. I’m going to be looking into other options down the road, as I have done all the home remedies and mixing is my best option.
Hope all of this helps!
Short answer: yes temp and humidity will affect your snakes feeding 🐍 🐁 lol
Edit: replace substrate after a week from today I meant. Not once a week.
Edit two: a chill mod in here once told me to cover the top screen with tin foil while mixing the substrate. Best tip ever. Plus if you do it right, it looks nifty. Just make holes for your heat lamp and ventilation. It’ll take some time to perfect. But not long. Kay I’m done now
They require 88f minimum on the cool side, ideally 90f for proper digestion. Since they're cold blooded they rely on the temperatures in their environment to do basic metabolic functions such as digest. So I'd recommend grabbing an under tank heater, a thermostat to control it, and maybe a decent little thermometer, sounds like you're using a wall dial that can be tough to read and are always inaccurate. Getting the temperatures right is really important for keeping reptiles, otherwise they can get sick or worse quickly, but luckily once you have those temps set they're easy to maintain. Woudl recommend just double checking the link under "basic care" down on our side bar, it can fill you in on a bit more like the calcium supplements they need as well. If you have any questions let me know! I'm going to add a few links to the items I'm mentioning
https://www.reddit.com/r/leopardgeckos/comments/9qig1m/gecko_belly_ive_had_my_gecko_about_two_weeks_and/
https://www.amazon.com/Century-T7-FBA_BNQ-T7H-Thermostat-Germination/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540265142&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=reptile+thermostat&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Digital-Terrarium-Thermometer/dp/B000MD3MFA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540265132&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=reptile+thermometer
You need the CHE on a thermostat not a timer. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vNOSBb4AW0Y8J
Note that I haven't used this exact one, so can't speak on its quality. The wattage just depends on how big of an area it needs to heat and by how much.
You might look into heating mats or submersible heaters commonly used for reptile terrariums and aquariums. The submersible ones need to be in water, but that could even just be a jar of water or a small tray, at the low wattage being discussed.
This heating pad controller for reptile enclosures (not endorsed, it was just the first one to come up for my search) has a temp sensor and thermostat: https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108°F/dp/B01I15S6OM/
At low wattages, you can even use something like a 40W incandescent bulb on a dimmer switch.
For mini-fridge size enclosure, even 40W will get things very hot - I think even 5-10W, with a thermostat, will get you a lot of heat in an enclosed space.
Century Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing, 40-108°F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-j6ZCbDTX6S1R
Oh that’s what I meant, I have this one on its way
that's what thermostats are for! you can get one here for a decent price. and here's how to set it up. (-:
Most people recommend ball pythons, cornsnakes and kingsnakes (and those all are good choices), however it's ultimately up to you! For example, I got a red tail boa constrictor as my first snake and I've only seen one person recommend them as beginner snakes. And honestly, I was glad I got my boa, he's such a sweetheart and his care is very similar to a ball pythons, just on a bigger scale! Plus he's a reptilian garbage disposal, so I don't have to worry about him skipping meals.
I've also seen breeders recommend ratsnakes and gopher/bullsnakes because their husbandry is very easy and they're typically very good eaters. While they're known to be a little temperamental, regular handling will calm them down pretty quickly. I've also seen Kenyan sand boas and children's pythons reccomended, plus they usually don't get too big, and all the snakes I've mentioned come in various morphs so it would be fairly easy to find one thats to your liking!
Snake Discovery, Clint's Reptiles and Josser's Jungle are a very good start! They upload educational videos and they're extremely helpful with information and helping you decide what snake is good for you.
As for getting the actual snake, never buy from large chain pet stores. Always try to get them from a reliable breeder, and the best way to do that is reptile expos! You'll be able to find a bunch of different morphs of various species and you can get supplies and food for pretty cheap.
Another thing to keep in mind is the lifespan and the supplies they need. Bigger snakes need bigger terrariums which cost more, need bigger meals, etc. You will also need a heat mat or heat tape that's connected to a thermostat regardless of species. snakes are kinda dumb and will continue to sit on a warm spot even if it burns them, so thermostats are a must! I use this thermostat for all 3 of my snakes and it works great!
And don't forget to do lot's of research! Look into the snake species itself, it's temperature and humidity requirements, the tank/tub size, and whether or not there are any breeders or expos nearby! Anyway, I hope this helped in some way, and good luck!!
You could try giving him a bath! That might help. Also please avoid lights. They can eventually hurt your baby’s eyes! Only use heating pads. The pinned post on this sub goes into detail about thermostats, (https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108°F/dp/B01I15S6OM this is the one I use) and you need one to regulate the temperature your heat pad gets to so your Leo doesn’t get too hot or cold.
(the pinned post is full of info and absolutely everything you’ll need to know/purchase to give your guy a happy and healthy life 😊)
Edit if you knew all of this already I’m super not trying to sound condescending, just trying to throw out some tips!!
The heat mat is preferred, since leopard geckos absorb heat for digestion thru their tummies only. For all my tanks i use the zoo med reptitherm heat pads. You will want one that takes up between 1/4 and 1/3 of the bottom of the tank. I hook all mine up to one of these... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_s9TUCb1WZ3HE7 i suggest also buying the heat pad off amazon as well, you will pay AT LEAST double if you buy at a brick and mortar store. As for the liner i just go to walmart and buy my liner there in the kitchen section.
The nice folks at this reptile shop made the heat wrap. They installed the connectors for an extra buck. My wrap is 12 inches wide and 4 feet long. Here is a link. https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/thg-heat-tape-3.html
I have it plugged into a temp controller. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I15S6OM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Thank you for responding! I really want to know what I can do to help my snake, as I've been worried something is wrong..... I made a list with the exact things that I have bought!
I have this terrarium
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008N9LRCK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and this heating mat on one half (covers around 40% of the tank)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X8WLYD8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
with this thermometer that controls the heat (max is 93 F) and cool side is 75-80
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I15S6OM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and i made a humidity box (as shown by Youtube account SnakeEncounters) with this moss that I spray to make humid- I have seen my snake in there twice now, she likes to sleep there for a couple hours and leave.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CX5QB82/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and I use this hide (one on cool side, one on warm side)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MVKJ3B1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and this bedding
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009KJ0A2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and I use these vines to make the enclosure feel more covered and less "open"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009YEB70/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
i'd say too cold. you can also get an inexpensive seed mat for about $13 USD & Temp controller For $19 to help keep the heat up. Cooling require a fridge/mini fridge (withoutf freezer) and a cooling controller which costs a lot more.
I tend to ferment in 2 places. 1. my laundry room in the winter (because it's usually cold due to dryer vent / begin on exterior wall), and 2. My bathroom in the summer which has AC and is generally kept cool.
That being said.. As other have mentioned, warm yeast make off flavors, cold yeast just stop working and may go dormant. You're better off going cold and re-pitching / warming up than getting bad flavor where you toss your product because it's not good.
Try this one NICREW ClassicLED Aquarium Light, Fish Tank Light with Extendable Brackets, White and Blue LEDs, Size 28 to 36 Inch, 18 Watts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ID3OK3S
I have a 5 gallon I’m selling with a light, heater, and HOB filter for $60 so definitely put your zip code! But before I upgraded my tank I had a simple sponge filter with air pump from amazon, a Nicrew light, and driftwood from a local store that cost me $10... in total my first set up was... air pump , sponge filter , Nicrew light (that was $14 when I got it...) and the tank $10, lid $10, driftwood $10= about $8”:) or you can do this HOB heater
Oh and for plants in this sub, there’s tons of people that sell good, tons of plants, good priced! I got TONS OF PLANTS for $20-$30 from bquad. But he isn’t the only one
NICREW ClassicLED Aquarium Light, Fish Tank Light with Extendable Brackets, White and Blue LEDs, Size 30 to 36 Inch, 18 Watts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ID3OK3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_y.AZCbQX2JHXT
I think it’s this one I bought on amazon a few years ago. Not sure though.
Should you get into the hobby? Of course!
Should you buy the cheap bare tank instead of a normally priced starter kit? Probably.
You'll need an appropriately sized glass lid which is $29 at that link for a 40 breeder. You'll also need a heater ($15ish), most of that same basic design are equally (un)reliable so you could get two smaller ones to improve reliability compared to one large one, but don't worry about brand name.
Then a light, which ranges from $42 suitable for viewing and low-light plants up to a lot more money for high-light suitable LED fixtures.
Then water conditioner such as Prime ($13)
And food for $3-$20, too many choices for me to even suggest one.
Overall this gives a better experience than a starter kit due to higher quality and more versatile... everything. The consumables are also larger than the sample sizes included in kits, though those are big enough to last quite a while anyways. And the equivalent cost starter kit is probably a 30 gallon and this is larger. But the overall cost is $130ish which illustrates that those starter kits are actually a decent value, as well as being convenient.
Thank you for the tips. Will grab some root tabs for sure.
The light is:
NICREW ClassicLED Aquarium Light,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ID3OK3S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ID3OK3S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
75 liters. Long.
3 bearings are by design. It allows more error in alignment over 4 bearings. The plate is very flimsy and should be change at the factory but that increases cost. People have pointed out there is a drop in replacement but its out of stock
>However I think I have to replace the motherboard (not quite sure what the best word for the main controller board is). Why would I have to do this?
Because the melzi board in your printer (saying main print controller board / main controller board is fine) doesn't have enough memory in it for a feature like auto bed leveling. It's pretty much using all it's extra pins and available memory to run the version of repetier host on it (which is an older version before they added auto bed leveling).
>Could I not just replace the Z endstop switch, and wire the inductive sensor into the same inputs?
You could, but your firmware is still going to do what it's still doing, which is probe for X min, Y min, Z min, all only at 1 point. Auto bed leveling can be set up to probe multiple points on the print bed, then adjust the Z level in realtime while it's printing to make sure it's keeping the nozzle the same height from the print bed at all times. For example lets say your front left corner of your bed is at Z height 0, your front right corner is at Z+0.5mm, your printer will adjust the z height as it's printing left to right +0.5mm.
>If I do in fact need to replace the motherboard, what would my best option be?
Cheapest option is a ramps 1.4 board.. You can find them cheaper than amazon, but you'll at least need to get the arduino mega 2560, the ramps 1.4 shield, and the stepper drivers (A4988's are what your melzi board has). Basically, the display is optional if you want it to be cheaper, just remember you can't use your current melzi display on ramps though. That being said, changing over isn't too difficult, but it scares a lot of people away because it's pretty easy to fry a ramps board if you don't follow directions too closely, and it requires uploading firmware to the board (which means downloading arduino software, loading a sketch -- the link has a copy already preconfigured for the i3, but there's plenty of tutorials on the net for changing options over to using a Z probe and enabling auto bed leveling). It's a bit of new learning for new people.. but again, there's plenty of tutorials out there now on how to get it done. That being said, if you do learn how to do it, it opens up a lot of cool new options, you can pick from different firmwares like repetier host or marlin, configure lots of new features available in firmware (have the printer turn on LED lights when starting a print, etc..)
That all being said, if you want the easiest, cheapest fix, buy a new carriage plate for your heated bed. The one that comes on a lot of the newer I3's is prone to warping / bending and that's probably why you can't get a completely level bed. Swapping it out for a better quality one means you can forgo all that other work and have a bed that can be level with your current setup.. it's a lot less work and learning and probably a better solution that using auto bed leveling to solve a problem you'd want to fix anyway even with auto bed leveling.
Someone else posted this earlier. Link
I had a warped bed with my Duplicator i3. I ended up buying a thicker carriage plate and that got rid of the warping. Now I don't have to spend so much time leveling my print.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Thanks, got this on order: RepRap Champion Y Carriage Plate Upgrade for Wanhao Duplicator i3 and Monoprice Maker Select V1, V2, V2.1 and Plus 3D printers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jlzQzbN4W6Y04
You don't need to do any electrical mods. The higher voltage in the plus fixes the problems that were present on the older versions. The Z-brace mod is a good idea, but not necessary. It's easy to do and improves print quality though, so you should do it.
It's also probably a good idea to swap out the steel y carriage with a stiffer aluminum one like this, but again, it's not entirely necessary.
Important thing to remember: Nothing is -ever- mandatory unless it's a major safety issue. The closest thing to that on that printer is the mosfet. I believe your original message implies you replaced the buildtak, so the Mosfet upgrade would be a very good idea unless you plan to change out the control board entirely.
Everything else is Optional and Quality of Life/Print stuff. ^.^
The following are examples on Amazon. Other folks and posts may have better advice on where/what to get.
Y Carriage plate
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ (This is the part under the heated bed)
MicroSwiss all metal hotend (From other person's post):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E1HANLS/
Linear bearings would be LM8LUU for the Y rods. If you have the plastic bearing holders, it's easy. If you have the aluminum block bearing holders, you'll have to find somebody else to source info on the circlips and how to not become sad with them.
You can print things just fine without any of these upgrades, so don't worry about the long print (unless you run out of filament).
A new controller board can do extra stuff and is required (Highly recommended, since you "can" make the probe work on the Melzi board, but poorly and at the cost of other things) for Z-Probe use, dual extruder, and with the heated bed on that printer, can remove the need for a separate MOSFET. It opens the path for other upgrades, can improve print quality to a degree in some cases, and can drive you absolutely nuts trying to set it up.
The inexpensive Quality of Life I'd recommend are thumbwheels with nylock nuts (hard to turn, but keep your level for a long time); corner-bracket spring cups (printed); and glass print bed. Two sets of printed things and about $12 at worst for the glass.
The bearing upgrade (If you can do it without fighting circlips) helps reduce Y-axis stutter and vibration. That upgrade brought my print quality up hugely. $25 or so if you get a lot of spares or higher quality ones.
The Y platform helps you with leveling and staying level.
The lack enclosure has some printed parts, $20-40 worth of Ikea furniture, and up to $50 worth of siding depending on your ability to cut glass and plexiglass.
So many things you CAN do. None that you MUST do. Some that you SHOULD do. And everything else is Just For Fun.
Not 100% sure, but seems like people need to drill new holes for the carriage you linked.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A2YI8XQU239Q2W
I'm about to get this one though, since y'know, it has the words "Monoprice Maker Select v2.1" in the title :)
This One, I inspected it best I could and it seems straight.
Yea, in the beginning I was in a constant battle to get the four corners leveled. Although it still is a fight it isn't nearly has bad now that I bought the extra thick plate for under the bed.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Buy this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Laugh at the fact you ever didn't have it.
Proceed to belt the paper thin aluminum foil your printer's default Y Carriage is made out of.
Roll around in perfectly flat first layers.
Installation was actually pretty simple; I watched https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQL8PS3erqI a couple of times first to familiarize myself with the process, tho I got the cheaper version of the kit without a replacement cooling block. As to recalibration, I am having to do some tweaking, however, I also upgraded my Z-axis carriage plate at the same time, to a much thicker (heavier) plate (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7) which has (along with z-brace mod, done a couple months ago) practically eliminated the need to bed-level after every print. The heavier plate introduced some Y-axis ghosting, which lead me to lower y-axis acceleration, as well as adding some belt clips (www.thingiverse.com/thing:1784375) & tightening the X- and Y-axis belts. The one issue I'm having with the new hotend specifically is that it tends to extrude a bit while heating up. I've played with some retraction settings, but haven't really resolved that yet.
i've modded mine to try and compensate for it and still getting some issues. It could be that I just suck at leveling.
So far I've bought a thicker aluminum Y carriage plate (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1), done the Z-brace mod (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:921948) and tried to make sure my X-gantry was level using these http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1138928
I haven't messed with seeing if the Y carriage rods need to be modified though.
I am guessing you have a plate similar to this?
I was either going to rotate the bed 90 or rotate the carriage plate itself. My only worry is about the "braid" of cables I have going to the control box (now I wish I had the plus lol).
This may be the next thing I look into. For the sake of killing 2 birds with one stone, it looks like [this drop in undercarriage from Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Carriage-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B01MUAMRN7) has mounting holes that would accommodate a 3 point mounting set up (2 on the right, 1 on the left). You think it would be possible to dill a new mounting hole on the existing build plate?
I bought the Maker Select V2 a few weeks ago, so I'll give you a dump of what I've bought so far:
MOSFET - You'll also need some 14 gauge wire, spade connectors, and something (like velcro) to mount it inside the case.
PEI Sheet - After going through tape/hairspray/glue this is what you'll end up wishing you started with. I bought some standard window glass from a big box store and had them cut it to size. I used the thermal pads at first, but I prefer just clipping it on. This way I can have 4 different glass beds to swap among.
Raspberry Pi 3 - OctoPrint is so much nicer than transferring the sd card back and forth.
Fan - DiiCooler or CiiCooler or a few others you can print out that are compatible with this fan (I think, I haven't finished printing them yet).
Y carriage plate - Not sure what the difference between this and yours is - I haven't installed mine yet).
MicroSwiss
Also ordered a couple rolls of Inand PLA from MicroCenter online.
Is there any reason why you are trying to get a custom Y-plate machined? Any reason why this wouldn't work? It's a direct drop in replacement no additional holes need to be drilled.
This is back in stock by the way. The below link is a newer version of the one in the original post. I just ordered one. :)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Carriage-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498322884&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wanhao+y+carriage
That is the carriage
You'll need the sponge some airline tubing and an air pump.
Then just hook it up. Different sponge being used by same concept
You already saw my other comment, but I'll add one more thing here: You might want to consider a small "sponge filter" for a 6.6 gallon tank instead of the hang-over-back filter. Most hang-over-back filters are for 10 gallons or more, so if you can't find a smaller one, just get these materials for a sponge filter:
The nice thing about sponge filters is you rarely need to clean them. I've run them for over a year without cleaning them and never had an issue. Super convenient.
Word. You'll also need a small air pump and a length of rubber tubing.
Air Pump
Tubing
10 Gallon pump
V
Check valve
V
Sponge Filter
V
Tubing
The check valve is a one way valve, which keeps water from coming backwards through the hose into the pump. This could happen during a power outage.
Nah, never skimp out on airstones and filtration. Female bettas are solitary except in very large, heavily planted tanks, they are very aggressive fish too. High quality pellets like hikari pellets should be alternated with frozen food, my bettas usually took both. Flower pot is for a hiding cave, and ducky might be too bright and stress out the fish. Natural decor looks prettier imo than man made stuff anywho, especially if you do it right. Never use test strips, they're expensive and innacurate, liquid test kits are the better option. Basically add seachem stability to the water for as long as it says, and put fish food in to make ammonia for the bacteria to feed on. Once you hit 0 ammonia and nitrite you're good.
For filtration supplies my recommendations are:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NP8W84/ref=cm_cr_othr_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8#cm_cr_carousel_images_section
https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Aquariums-Flexible-Standard/dp/B0002563MW/ref=pd_aw_fbt_199_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=T5060PXA17HMGYQ77ABQ&amp;th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Easy-Aquariums-Non-UL/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=pd_aw_sim_199_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=M73HJGY41F3HX940NJJG&amp;th=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B076S3D75C/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539721622&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=small+airstone&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41QZJrnKZZL&amp;ref=plSrch
And of course seachem prime and stability
What are you doing to cycle your tank? If you don't know the answer to this question, take a look at the Fishless Cycling Guide to understand the nitrogen cycle and how to properly prepare your tank for animals.
If you don't have a filter in your tank yet, you haven't really begun to prepare the tank for inhabitants until you do. For a sponge filter, you will need a sponge filter, airline tubing, and air pump. I also strongly recommend you purchase check valves and control valves to prevent the airline from becoming a siphon and draining your tank in the event of a power outage or air pump failure, and to control the airflow to your filter, respectively.
The ideal water quality results are 0ppm Ammonia, 0ppm Nitrites, 20ppm or lower Nitrates. Your pH is fine for ADFs. A fully cycled tank should be able to convert 4ppm of added Ammonia to the tank completely to Nitrates within 24hrs. Once you test your water within 24hrs and find this result, it is ready for animals.
ADF names: Frogsby, Frogbert, and Fred.
What country are you located in?
Petco has the dollar per gallon sale every so often. So, you could get a 10 gal for $10
Then:
Sponge filter
Air pump tubing
Heater
Thermometer
Edit: this is just basics. Other things you'd need: a hood, a liquid test kit, Food- this one is just okay, cheaper in store to get Omega one pellets, absolutely need water conditioner- this one is very concentrated
At one point didn't transthetics have the option to buy detachable balls that could be added to their prosthetics? I could have swore that was a thing but looking at their website now I don't see it. It sucks because that would hit everything you want.
I have a couple freetom prosthetics. I've never heard of anyone that offers to add an ejaculation system to posthetics you already have unfortunately. You might be able to DIY some sort of ejaculation system for them? Like if you filled something with lube and put it in the shaft and squeezed the shaft, or maybe put it more in the base with a tube going up the shaft. Using a tube like that would be the only way it could work if you also wanted to use the insertable rod that comes with freetom prosthetics. My first thought is one of those little cake pipette things like these with a tube attached, maybe like this or this? Kind of similar to the idea of combining the peecock pleasure rod with a freetom but hopefully without the problem of pieces of it sticking out or not fitting right, and without having to buy a whole second prosthetic. No idea if that would actually work or not though. I also found this link talking about another method of piecing together different parts of different packers, but using cheaper products, maybe that would work?
Ah just airline tubing, like this
Set up for single Axolotls
Realistic initial start up cost $135
Excluding cost of axolotl
$5-$40 20g tank MINIMUM preferably 30g (offer up, let go, Facebook groups and pet stores)
$1-$70Hides - decor or caves or even home made must be water safe even pvc piping works minimum of 2 (decor can become expensive fast if you want to make your tank look very “pretty”)
$20-$30Filter - something with low current flow sponge filter or a canister filter with something to break up a strong flow if you have a sponge filter you need air line tubing and a air pump
Bacto-Surge High Density Foam Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOFPX9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oov7AbY5ESARC
Penn Plax Airline Tubing for Aquariums –Clear and Flexible Resists Kinking, 25 Feet Standard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002563MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kpv7AbQ20H9V7
Tetra Whisper Easy to Use Air Pump for Aquariums (Non-UL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YF4FI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hpv7AbC3Y8R2Z
$10-$15 Water additives
Water dechlorinator follow instructions on bottle if the tank isn’t fully cycled use prime plus follow instructions on bottle
API TAP WATER CONDITIONER Aquarium Water Conditioner 16-Ounce Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1qv7AbHFPEHT5
Tetra 77960 SafeStart, 15-Gallon, 50-ml, 1.69-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E2RI74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1tv7AbDHHEMEY
$20-$35 API water test kit to make sure the water is in good parameters
http://www.axolotl.org/requirements.htm
API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water Master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zvv7AbK35G0WW
$2-$10 Aquarium thermometer that reads down to 60 degrees F
CNZ Digital LCD Thermometer for Aquarium Fish Tank Vivarium Reptile Terrarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KPXVI94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yxv7Ab1NSQ5H6
$5-$20 Aquarium syphon
Aqueon Medium Siphon Vacuum Aquarium Gravel Cleaner, 9-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RK1WBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2aw7Ab3Z5KS9B
Feeding
$2.50-$3 Fishing earth worms (Walmart sporting goods section)
$10-$15 blister pack of 30 blood worm cubes (I can sell them to you while supplies last for $15 or you can buy them at any pet shop that sells fish)
Earth worms when they get bigger try to feed them nibbles of a worm like the size of their head and move up as they get bigger and frozen blood worms for first month to month and a half try to feed the earth worms to the axolotls ever couple days by hand until they start accepting them they might start accepting earth worms as soon as a week after receiving them from me (feed frozen blood worms every other day until they are regularly eating pieces of worm )
Maintenance
You can use a turkey baster and clean up their poops as you see them you’ll still have to do water changes but much less water 25%-35% or use a syphon once a week and do a 30%-50% water change along with the water dechlorinator and some of the safe start plus make sure to test the water regular with the api test kit
Keeping the water to the correct temperature
60-64F is the perfect water temp for them but it can be hard to achieve during summer but doing more regular water changes can help with that and putting a fan over the aquarium blowing on it will help by up to 4-5 degrees
NO SAND OR GRAVEL ESPECIALLY NO GRAVEL EVER sand maybe fine once they are 6-7inches but they will swallow it and they can become impacted and possibly lead to death
Yes, I taped an air pump needle to the airline tubing with some duct tape. The air-line with a couple of layers of duct tape will fit snuggly through a water bottle sports cap.
Air pump Air line Filter
Sponge filters really are the best when it comes to shrimp tanks. I would only do a betta if you added a fish, but you also run the risk of the betta eating the shrimp. Ghost shrimp or neocaridina would be great.
Three dogs and five cats home here. Thank you so taking in this dog. You and you wife deserve praise for being so caring. Your new dog will want to check out everything, most probably the kitties. I think the main thing you will need to do is train him not to chase kitties. I dog sit for a friend of mine when they go on vacation, and when Sam first came here he was fascinated with the kitties. He also had to deal with my two Labs and German Shepherd. Just give him some time and scold him if he chases the cats. He will learn fast enough. I wouldn't be surprised if one of the kitties likes to play with him. I am also going to tell you a toy that my dog was given and every dog seems to love.
This is the amazon link but you can get them elsewhere.http://www.amazon.com/Kyjen-PP01056-Hide-A-Squirrel-Squeak-4-Piece/dp/B0002I0O60/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405262415&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=squirrel+in+a+stump+dog+toy
Stay in touch and tell us how things are going.
Bully sticks are a favorite for my pair, but they don't last long (maybe 30-45 min). Anything stuffed is shredded into stuffing and fluff within 2 weeks. My boy doesn't chew this toy, but it he loves it. Carries it around with him everywhere, licking it, tossing it, sleeping on it. Unfortunately the girl makes it her mission to actually destroy it, so I have to buy a new one every month or so. Funny enough, they have zero interest in the little squirrels, only the tree trunk, so i have like 20 little squirrels in their "toy bin" now.
I no longer give them elk antlers because they've both cracked teeth on them. They have had zero interest in nylabones.
I'm sure I'm supposed to put my husband here, and he's really been making an effort lately. However, at this very moment, my dog is giving me puppy face. I just can't resist puppy face. Also, he barks to protect me from strange house noises, people passing by on the sidewalk, wind... He is very brave, and I've never had a truer friend. I hope he hides behind me and barks at the pizza guy for many years to come.
Would you consider getting Malcolm this interesting toy from his list if we win? I'm sure he'd be pretty grateful.
Thanks for the contest, and happy 8th birthday to your favorite person! (Carrot cake is an excellent choice!)
Hi - we also have an adopted rat terrier who had a lot of behavioral issues when we first adopted him (bark/lunge/growl at every stranger who entered the house, afraid of all big dogs, buses, etc).
when we got him he had multiple scars & lacerations, we don't know if it was from a human or another animal.
we tried a lot of different re-direction techniques, and in the end, what worked best was a tip from the last trainer - squirt him in the face. we got a little squirt bottle, filled it with water, and when he behaved aggressively towards people, we would just squirt him. he got the the message very quickly that we didn't want him to do that.
it took him about 6 months to play with a toy. we started with something he could chew on, just a leather ring...then soft toys, and he likes the shake them around like he is killing them :)
he really liked the squirrels in the tree soft toy - he could pull out the little squirrels and shake them around. http://www.amazon.com/Kyjen-PP01056-Hide-A-Squirrel-Pet-Large/dp/B0002I0O60
good luck!
These are my papillion's favorite toys:
Hide-a-Squirrel
Twist-n-Treat toy
Classic Kong toy
West Paw toys like this one
I also have a couple of the puzzle toys. I like to get ones that have several layers of difficulty so my dog doesn't get bored right away. Like this one, but I found it at HomeGoods for a lot cheaper!
We like:
Outward Hound Hide a Squirrel Fun Hide & Seek Interactive Puzzle Plush Dog Toy, 4 Piece, Junior/Large/Jumbo/Medium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002I0O60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RbwGDb9J3V7KC
And the Trixie puzzle board games
I'm not sure what budget you're working with, but with the fitness/snowboarding interest, maybe a camelbak would be a good gift! I think it'd be fun to throw in a gift or two for their dog, too. You could get a hide-a-squirrel or a tricky treat ball.
If so, my family dog, Josh, who's only 10LB loves this hide-a-squirrel toy. They make various sizes, including one for little dogs. I think it'd be a good thing to distract from any chewing things that oughtn't be. Josh likes to tote the squirrels around, throw them in the air and basically play fetch with himself.
He definitely needs one of these...they are awesome...I was gifted the gigantic one for my dogs...but your can use the little one...oh and did I say squirrels!!! http://www.amazon.com/Kyjen-PP01056-Hide-A-Squirrel-Squeak-4-Piece/dp/B0002I0O60/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420856682&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=squirrel+stump+dog+toy
My dog quickly destroyed the West Paw Zogoflex Hurley Bone and the Tux. He also quickly destroyed an XL black "classic" Kong and a black Kong bone. I got him a new XXL black Kong and he's only interested in licking peanut butter out of it, I think it's too big for him to really chew on (which was my intent.) We haven't tried Goughnuts, but we might in the future.
The West Paw and Kong Extreme toys just aren't as indestructible as I thought they'd be. I haven't tried it, but the black Kong ball might be good - I find that spheres are good because they're hard to hold when slippery with slobber and this keeps dogs from being able to surgically attack a weak spot / seam / hole.
Things that he hasn't destroyed are these:
Also, Nylabones (the really big Galileo is good) and jumbo Benebones, although they can get sharp nubs which can cut gums, so I got a heavy duty metal file typically used for metal and it works really well to file down the sharp prickly places.
My puppy is always crated when someone isn't home. We have nice things and it isn't fair to ask a toddler not to destroy nice things without supervision. What we do: we don't make it a big deal at all to put him in, or take him out. I got him this and he gets really excited about it. I hide treats under the squirrel, and I put it in his crate. He now will preemptively go in there as soon as he sees me pick up his squirrel house because he loves it so much. Also, because I don't want him to be anxious or lonely, I bought him a buddy (stuffed dog) and put it in there with him along with other toys, and his crate faces the TV, so we play a nature DVD in the background. I also bought him a crate cover so it's more den-like.
Congrats! I just got a pug puppy myself a few weeks ago. Wanted to share my experiences I've had so far.
What kind of bed should we get for a pug? I'm thinking about getting this bed in the Medium size. Is this too big for the dog?
My pug tends to like plush things, he's always making his way into my clothes/towels. I got him this one since he loves hiding under my couch, and he loves it.
Is this crate a good fit for the pug? I'm planning to get the 24"x18"x19" size.
Crate training is a god send, especially when it comes to potty training. If you have the time, I would invest in doing that. I have the same exact crate and it works for him. The crate should only be big enough for him to stand and turn around, if he's a bit smaller (younger), you can use the divider so the crate will grow with your pug.
Any suggestions on a leash (retractable, fixed or both?)
My pug isn't old enough to go on walks yet, he hasn't had all his shots so I wouldn't be able to tell you. As a previous dog owner, fixed leash is best until he's learned proper walking manners and then you can invest in a retractable.
What kind of toys would a pug enjoy? I was told we needed a chewing one and a tugging one!
My pug's favorite toy is this one.
Any recommendations for food or treats?
Like what people earlier said, low-calorie treats are good since pugs tend to gain weights easily. When training, I would recommend freeze dried liver treats... my pug loves them!! Food wise, I feed my pug Taste of the Wild puppy formula... them or Blue Buffalo are great bets for your pug.
Good luck!!
My Mum's dogs had these squirrel toys and they went crazy for them!
This was always my puppy's favorite toy and lasts into adulthood...
Edit: These are also a great way to deal with potty training and alerting you when she needs to go out.
Thanks for the contest!
i would love some dog toys for my fur babies
This is Wiley. I think he would really like this hide-a-squirrel puzzle toy. Aren't they cute?
My family owns an English Mastiff. She swallowed one of the squirrels from this toy. After the initial shock (for her and us) we had a lovely evening of trying to control a 150lb Mastiff while attempting to "feed" her Hydrogen Peroxide. For things like toys they recommend feeding them bread first as well as it will encapsulate the toy/etc so that it doesn't wreck their throats on the way out.
Tip: we ended up soaking the bread in the peroxide and feeding that to her. Squirting it down her throat was a WWE Battle Royal, but soaking bread in it was a feast - freaking dogs. Then the throwing up began. And then we had two round balls of bread, one full of dog food and the other, low and behold, containing the missing squirrel.
My mother in laws dogs love this toy happy Birthday to your puppy!
Brandy looks wonderful. Such lovely colouring.
I get these for Butters. He loves them.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002I0O60/ref=s9_al_bw_g199_i2
Scat-mat. 9-volt battery and a little static-electricity type shock and the cat will avoid it. After a few times, turn it off and then you don't have to worry about walking on it later ;)
Scat mat in front of the door?
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-ScatMat-Training-Large-inches/dp/B0007NTBJ6
My cats drove me crazy scratching at my door at night, until I got a Scat Mat: http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Operated-Scat-Mat-48x20/dp/B0007NTBJ6
I had tried the Ssssscat Sprays other posters have recommended, but my cats quickly learned that by moving very, very slowly they could avoid setting off the motion detector. The mat works because it shocks them every time they step on it. It works so well, I don't even bother turning it on anymore. Just roll it out when I go to bed, and the cats don't go anywhere near.
I would expect that it would work well on your counters as a training aid.
On medium, it's about the strength of a small static shock. More startling than anything.
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-ScatMat-Training-Large-inches/dp/B0007NTBJ6
Shock the fucker. Doesn't hurt it, but it'll think twice about sitting on your furniture.
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-ScatMat-Training-Large-inches/dp/B0007NTBJ6
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Spray-Deterrent/dp/B000RIA95G/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487015183&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ssscat
Couldn't you also just electrify the floor?
Think like a scatmat that runs around your insulated doors and windows.
something like this
3 Cats. After a couple mornings of door claw symphonies, my GF bought this Bad Boy
Definitely understand the counter concerns. I’d recommend the scat mats then. Should be able to get a decent size for about $40 and up.
For example:
PetSafe ScatMat Indoor Pet Training Mat for Dogs and Cats , Large, 48 X 20 inch, Pet Proof Your Home, Electronic Training Mat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007NTBJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qVZSDbJAAC9XY
They also have these motion sensor activated compressed air cans as well.
As for the tunnels, there are a few cheap four way tunnels with crinkle material. Would highly recommend a window perch; they have ones that can fold up while still hanging on the window, so you can close the blinds or shutters.
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Operated-Scat-Mat-48x20/dp/B0007NTBJ6
I never found something satisfying, so never bought a Maggie, although I adore them. At one time I considered this
Metal screen is radical but I'm afraid it will have a detrimental effect to the sound.
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Operated-Scat-Mat-48x20/dp/B0007NTBJ6
And make sure they have a few towers next to the forbidden zones so that you can easily redirect them to an allowed climbing place.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0007NTBJ6?pc_redir=1408202906&amp;robot_redir=1
Solution
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0007NTBJ6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1395105041&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40
I'm dealing with the exact same issue, our boy has start pawing at the bedroom door and the rattling is becoming too much to handle. Glad to have your insight on the motion sensor air spray as that was the option my fiance was considering. We haven't tried this personally yet, but I was looking into a ScatMat. It seems like it would extend far enough in front of the bedroom door so our cat can't just try to lean his way against it to paw. Good luck and I would love to hear about any results!
Maybe a scatmat? https://www.amazon.com/d/Cat-Repellent-Mats/PetSafe-ScatMat-Indoor-Training-Electronic/B0007NTBJ6
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https://www.amazon.com/Everyday-Feeder-Programmable-Automatic-Dispenser/dp/B001F2117I
I have two of those. Everybody seems to love them. One was knocked into the tank by one of my Oscars. It still works even though it sat at the bottom of the tank for awhile.
https://www.amazon.com/Everyday-Feeder-Programmable-Automatic-Dispenser/dp/B001F2117I
best one if you haven’t tried yet is
EHEIM Everyday Fish Feeder Programmable Automatic Food Dispenser https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F2117I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oXIACbM4145DV
easy to adjust and easy to program
EHEIM Everyday Fish Feeder Programmable Automatic Food Dispenser
I definitely recommend the programmable kind- they're a little pricey but they work great. I break the algae wafers into little chunks that are small enough to be deposited by the feeder. http://www.amazon.com/Everyday-Feeder-Programmable-Automatic-Dispenser/dp/B001F2117I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1373668034&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=fish+feeder This is the one I use, it has an adjustable door so you can choose how much food comes out when you use is.
I'd recommend the Eheim Everyday Feeder. I've used it for several vacations and it's been very reliable. It works fine with the smaller betta pellets.
He should be fine for 3 days, and I would advise staying away from one of those dissolving vacation feeders, I had one crash my tank.... :( But I do recommend this automatic feeder, I have used it for a 3 week time frame with no problems, I used it on my tank with my betta and neon's in it, and my betta eats the neons food as well as his so its all good.
And if you have amazon prime there is 2 day shipping on it....might be here in time.
Guys, i am very much tempted to set up an aquarium in my home. But, I will be gone overseas for a vacation for 4-6 weeks every year. I was looking at vacation fish feeder https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001F2117I#Ask and looks very promising. The reviews say that people have left their aquarium for long time. I checked with my friends and they suggested to not set up an aquarium. The problem is that most of my friends will be gone during that period.
I want to ask if any of you guys have tried leaving your aquarium for 4-6 weeks with vacation feeder?
I use battery auto feeders on all my tanks for their daily staple food. These ones are great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F2117I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
They never look mangled, they were swimming around like normal not hiding or anything.
They looked like bones which ive never seen before.
I am feeding them https://www.cobaltaquatics.com/collections/flake-fish-food/products/cichlid-flake-food and yes they were eating before death.
They are fed 3 times daily by 2 EHEIM Automatic food dispensers and they do not leave much if anything behind. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001F2117I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This seems like a pretty good option: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F2117I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A14IZ8JAGKKH3G
I've used this one before. It just rotates the drum and dumps food out of a hole. You can set the time of day and how often it rotates and you can adjust the opening to allow more or less food to fall out with each feeding. You can also set it to rotate twice each time if you need a larger feeding. The drum holds a good amount of food but flakes are a bit of a pain because if it gets splashed or just too moist, they stick and don't actually fall out when they're supposed to.
kitty toy!!! :) hi, how are you? I have no idea what lorises are....
In case you are wondering, it's a ring with a ball in it, I'm afraid it's not a Roomba.
Catit Design Senses Play Circuit, Original https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001LWRFW2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_OnT.tb0TSCVZ9 Mostly because of the kitten on the right's reaction to the toy!
Like these?
Hehe get your zoo on gurl!
[Hagen Catit Design Senses Play Circuit, Original]
(http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001LWRFW2/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8)
http://www.amazon.com/Catit-Design-Senses-Circuit-Original/dp/B001LWRFW2
my cat loves hers, she's been playing with it for 3 years, she's elite at spinning the ball top speed lol
My cat is some sort of world destroyer, too. I've had success with field hockey balls and ping pong balls. While the ping pong balls don't last quite as long, they are insanely cheap. I leave them propped on shelves and things all over the house for her to find, and she basically plays teeball with them.
this is pretty much the most awesome toy ever. You can configure different shapes for the track, and while she bites it and plays rough, it's really held up well. She goes absolutely positively insane for this thing. The ball inside moves fast, and there's a slight incline at each end that will send it back to her. It's awesome. We bought a second track with hills and made a really long one. It's awesome for my super energetic cat.
If anyone is curious what toy it is, here ya go. They have some pretty neat stuff for kitties.
This approach may take some time, but my cat eventually learned that if I am in the bedroom with the light off and fan on (its an oscillating one that makes a fairly strong humming sound), I am down for the night and it'll be at least a few hours before I come back. After a few weeks of this routine, he gave up on screaming outside my door. The bedroom is off-limits to him at all times, as well. If I'm in there with the light on, he will meow at me, because he knows I'm likely to come back soon.
Mine's a door-rattler, too - he can fit his paw in the crack under the bedroom door and wrap it around the door. To protect the bottom of the door from his claws, I put some rubber weatherstripping on it. For the floor, consider getting a protective film to put down where she usually scratches. Hardware stores sell them to use during painting / construction, and many of them are affordable and tear-resistant.
It may be inconvenient, but do your best to cat-proof the house so you can ignore her acting out with minimal collateral damage. Keep anything fragile in drawers or cabinets unless you're actively using it. Consider making the bedroom a no-cat zone and putting as many valuables as possible in there. Don't leave food or drinks unattended - if you have to step away, stick them in the fridge or a cabinet while you're gone.
Also consider an electronic toy that moves around or something more interactive that will keep her engaged at night or while you're busy without the need for a human to facilitate playtime. Here are a few ideas::
https://www.amazon.com/SmartyKat-Feather-Whirl-Electronic-Motion/dp/B00KQGRIKI/
https://www.amazon.com/Catit-Design-Senses-Circuit-Original/dp/B001LWRFW2
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WP7F8YC
https://www.amazon.com/Tower-Tracks-Track-Interactive-Petstages/dp/B00DT2WL26
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714D3FDT?psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DJ6XW
https://www.amazon.com/Hex-480-3030-Nano-Assorted-Styles/dp/B01B45AMIO/
Also, if she ignores the scratching post but loves to tear the crap out of your floor, she may prefer a horizontal scratcher. One wasted $30 scratching post later, I figured that out about my cat. Something like these would be worth a try:
https://www.amazon.com/Bergan-Turbo-Scratcher-Colors-vary/dp/B000IYSAIW - doubles as a toy
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009YQ5KJM/ - this one is nice because you can lay it flat on the floor, prop it up at an angle with the cardboard flap, or hang it from a doorknob to see which works best. Also comes with catnip to sprinkle inside it. These have corrugated cardboard surfaces and don't last as long as carpet or sisal rope, but my cat seems more satisfied with something he can actually destroy. He'll jump on it, attack it with his claws, then roll around in the bits he tore off. You will vacuum a lot of cardboard flakes off the floor as it starts to wear out, but for me it's worth the trouble. If you don't like the mess, you can buy this one to test whether horizontal, inclined, or hung against the wall works best, then invest in a similar style of scratcher made from more durable material. That was my plan, but he just loves this stuff so much I order one as an add-on every month when I buy litter.
Haha, of course! My cat is so spoilt, but it's so worth it! If you're ever looking for exciting toys for her (aside from the laser pointer which someone else mentioned) This is by far my cat's favourite. He usually gets bored with things quite quickly, but he loves playing with that.
Ooooh my kitty would love this toy!
Because it was already on my wishlist :)
http://www.amazon.com/Hagen-Design-Senses-Circuit-Original/dp/B001LWRFW2/ref=pd_bxgy_petsupplies_img_z
I have a cat that loves to play. Here are some of the things she has: da bird cat toy, circuit , a cat tree (armarkat), and some stuffed toys I made for her
Edit: For the circuit, you can make it as long as you want, and it doesn't have to be in a circle. Also, cats like boxes.
You basically need to find a way to keep him entertained in the mornings. Here's a few options:
I hope you figure something out for both yours and your cat's sake. The best solution for me was to just get another cat. Now I don't usually have problems with them wanting to play at bad times anymore. But I know that for a lot of people, getting another pet just isn't an option. So I would definitely try the toys. I'm sure there's plenty of other toys out there other than the ones I mentioned that could work for your kitty as well.
One last note- if your kitty isn't neutered, I would definitely recommend getting him neutered. Neutering cats has a lot of benefits, and it might even help with the howling- source
Again, good luck!
Just saw this.
Source: Cats my entire life.
Good luck!
I have some whimsical fuckery for the cats! Or for me -- who doesn't want neon green yoga blocks?
oh yes, and HAPPY BIRTHDAY HDATZ !!
Here are a couple I've seen recommended often:
http://www.guineapigcagesstore.com/ If you get the materials yourself and build it on your own, you can make one of these for a lot less expensive than the website. If you're do-it-yourself-y, this is a great option. If not, maybe not so much.
https://www.amazon.com/MidWest-Homes-for-Pets-171GH/dp/B001NJ0DPY This one is nice because you can expand it relatively easily.
Remember that a pair of boars needs about 10 square feet (sorry, I don't know what that measurement is in meters).
Are you talking about this cage? It's available at Petsmart.
That midwest cage is actually a 2x4 and you can buy it w/o a top and divider on amazon. Link It's only $30, I have it and it's not leaky at all. If you think it's too small you can combine two of them too. It's the cage that I have, but you do risk your guinea pig escaping if the are adventurous like my Belle. (She was in heat and horny and I have a boar in the same room as her so she just climbled over the top, it's like 2feet high though). But it's a decent cage
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NJ0DPY/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_TK3nDbJ70QJB9
Go with a Midwest Cage system. They aren't as expensive as a C&C, and sometimes you can get a price match at a big box pet stores.
https://www.amazon.com/Guinea-Habitat-Cage-MidWest-Inches/dp/B001NJ0DPY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1538997215&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=midwest+cage+for+guinea+pigs&psc=1
Some facts of rat keeping.
Midwest Expandable Guinea Habitat https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001NJ0DPY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nQ29ybW9BFV31
The Midwest cage is available on amazon Canada.
[Guinea pig cost] (http://www.guineapigtoday.com/2011/11/24/guinea-pigs-are-cheap-not/)
If you don't want a pregnant pig, don't get one from a big box store. Check out Guinea Pig Rescues for your local shelter pigs! You can even get an already bonded pair so I think it's one of the best options.
I have gotten pigs before abandoned at big box stores for free because they cannot profit from selling an abandoned pet. It's hard to look for those and is mostly luck of the draw.
I get hay in bulk [here] (http://smallpetselect.com/) with the coupon code RGP.
Tis the season to get cages on sale. The pet store ones are over priced and way too small. I reccomend a [C&C] (http://www.guineapigcagesstore.com/about-candccages) or [Midwest] (http://www.amazon.com/MidWest-Homes-for-Pets-171GH/dp/B001NJ0DPY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449451304&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=midwest+habitat+guinea+pig)
This is her cage: Midwest Expandable Guinea Habitat - http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Homes-for-Pets-171GH/dp/B001NJ0DPY
I just had the lamp on for 30 minutes and it was really warm...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001NJ0DPY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522469891&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=guinea%2Bpig%2Bcage&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51LjyRUWqfL&amp;ref=plSrch&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
It’s 8sq feet and you can put multiple cages together if you want.
Except, we have invented them. They are commonly known and used. Even in combat when required.
http://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA
There's a pretty good selection of products for hunting dogs. I'm sure they would work the same for your situation.
https://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA
These have mixed reviews but I have had luck with them.
Earmuffs for dogs? They're mad expensive though
get these mate
https://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA
Yes they do: https://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA
I got a hunting dog, I go quail/dove/duck hunting every season and he brings the birds back. He loves hunting but since I got ear plugs in for safety I also use ear protection for my dog. I think Cody could use something like this but have some folks in the costume department modify these to look really cool for TV. This is what I use on my dog when hunting:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CZQ1TA
If you're pretty sure it's mostly the light and the sound, you could invest in some blackout blinds for your windows, and condition your dog to wear "Mutt Muffs." There are also websites that play white noise to drown out some of the noise, as well.
I would not hesitate to ask your vet for medications here. There are safe medications to help your dog through their thunderstorm fears, and it's really best to help your dog immediately instead of waiting for a bigger issue...Some dogs even start to associate drops in barometric pressure before a storm starts with intense fear and anxiety.
ETA: I've also heard of folks stuffing the inside of the Mutt Muffs with fabric or cotton for extra noise reduction.
I've got hammocks and two of these pod things in the cage and my girls only sleep in the pods anymore. They probably like the cave/nest feel of the pod better than an open hammock.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X2NBNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_.NSitb1PTE0ZG
Lixit Critter Space Pod 2 Large by Lixit http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X2NBNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_P9yptb0H5ZNY9
Looks like I'm taking in a senior rat this weekend. Gotta prepare and look how cool this is!
As other people have said, ferret cages might have spaced big enough for smaller rats to escape.
I would definitely advise getting a Critter Nation cage: http://www.dog.com/item/critter-nation-small-animal-cage-single-unit/650231/?srccode=GPDOG&amp;utm_source=google&amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;scid=scplp9000136&amp;gclid=CjwKEAjwu6a5BRC53sW0w9677RcSJABoFn4sXRfeqmFuLS7H4CZT3h2S5W9aCENq2GcHJ_-XIfSsxhoCNhbw_wcB
Google it and go to shopping results. That's how I got mine for the low low price of $112, and that was including shipping! It's a great investment.
Pretty much anything you need for your boys you can get online: lab blocks, hammocks, chews, toys, litter boxes, etc.
I have three boys. They're not that smelly, honestly. They smell a little sweet sometimes, like cheerios and faint pee.
They're litter box trained, but occasionally miss or whiz outside their box. These are the boxes I have: https://jet.com/product/detail/fa77c55e49b84b21ad3482352a86bba8?jcmp=pla:ggl:gen_animals_pet_supplies_a3:pet_supplies_cat_supplies_cat_litter_boxes_a3_other:na:na:na:na:na:2&amp;code=PLA15&amp;ds_c=gen_animals_pet_supplies_a3&amp;ds_cid&amp;ds_ag=pet_supplies_cat_supplies_cat_litter_boxes_a3_other&amp;product_id=fa77c55e49b84b21ad3482352a86bba8&amp;product_partition_id=161833679820&amp;gclid=CjwKEAjwu6a5BRC53sW0w9677RcSJABoFn4snBzuFx8FUS2MnG0nvpNFwX7W3F7WqPO-I91Zrx3ygBoC62Pw_wcB&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds
The messiest things they do are leaving lab block crumbs everywhere, missing the litter box, or chewing up a towel or napkin they got a hold of. Occasionally poops/litter fall out of the cage, especially when you clean it.
I have my cage floor covered in an old towel, with fleece on top. A couple of times a week I sweep out crumbs/chewed up mess/ stray poops with a mini broom and dustpan. If you're lazy, use a vacuum cleaner.
For full cleans, I vacuum the floor fleece, all their hideouts and hammocks, and their scraps of loose fleece they use for blankets to clean up loose mess. Then pick up the towels and fleece, shake em out like a rug outside if they're still dirty, and throw em in the washer. Wipe down the cage surfaces with baby wipes or pet cleaner. Lay down another towel-fleece later for another week or week and a half, and repeat.
Be sure to supply plenty of hideaways, hammocks, boxes, space pods (http://www.amazon.com/Lixit-Critter-Space-Pod-Large/dp/B002X2NBNQ)
etc. for them to sleep/cuddle/hide in.
Good treats are (most) fruits, non-sugary cereals like cheerios, nuts, pasta, pretty much anything you'd consider "healthy and natural". Occasional FrootLoops or dollops of ice cream won't hurt them either. I pretty much always share whatever I'm eating with those cute little faces.
As mentioned before, lab blocks are what you should feed ideally. They're specially formulated to have the perfect percentage of each amino acid and the right amount of fiber, etc. Plus lab blocks make their poops almost odorless! I use Harlan Teklad (also known as Native Earth, apparently) 2016 formula, which I get from "The Crafty Rat" online store: https://www.thecraftyrat.com
It's pretty cheap since you can buy in bulk, and each 5 lb bag lasts a month or more.
Of course always have water in bottles available. I get the big 30 Oz critter sipper bottles from Walmart. Make sure to hang up a couple in their cage in case one leaks all out or gets clogged.
Lab blocks should keep their teeth worn down, but you can give them cardboard, wooden bird toys, lava ledges, or even deer antler to chew on. Mine pretty much never chew anything, but they love this and literally chew it to pieces: http://www.petswarehouse.com/8-in-1-wild-harvest-chewable-log-small/?gclid=CjwKEAjwu6a5BRC53sW0w9677RcSJABoFn4sQZZwP2wwvkg7wnxX5FVDadNP4EDvK9dXv3l505RAuRoC5cjw_wcB
I bought this: http://www.amazon.com/Lixit-Critter-Space-Pod-Large/dp/B002X2NBNQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458580193&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=rat+toys
Your house is probably already full of rat toys galore!
Wood chews are really popular and help with dental care. You can get them in the small animal and/or bird section. I bought some beads at Amazon for $3 and my girls love to chew them up. They sell them in fun shapes and sizes--stuff like letter blocks or vegetables. So cute to see a rat running around with a wood chew in her mouth, especially when it's shaped like a stalk of broccoli. Give your girl(s) at least a couple of places to hide and nap! Check the pet store for plastic igloos (get the medium-sized one, or if you get a bigger cage, get the guinea pig one) or even a space pod to hang from the cage ceiling. You can also make fabric hammocks for them to lie in. It's adorable!!!
In addition to lab blocks for feeding (the Kaytee is in my opinion not good; I'd feed until it runs out, then switch to Oxbow), be sure to supplement your girl's diet with fresh veggies! Here is a good list of safe foods. Give fatty foods like nuts in moderation. Dark, leafy greens are a must! At first, your little one will be wary of new stuff, so be persistent in presenting it to her. She'll soon be eating everything in sight. :) Oh! Rarely, as in maaaybe once a month, you can give your rats a cooked chicken bone. (Assuming you eat meat; sorry for assuming!) They love it and it is good for their little teeth.
Was your girl alone in the cage at the pet store, or did she have some siblings with her? If you decide to bring another girl home, have another cage ready. The one you have is pretty small! If you're going to upgrade, this one is a good starter house for two rats. While you're going through the introductions for the new girl and the old girl, keep them separate. You can keep your little cage as a hospital cage once the girls are integrated, or use it as a travel cage for vet visits. If you have a bigger budget and space for a bigger cage, you can look for Critter Nation (if you're in the U.S.) or Savic Suite (outside U.S.) Martin's cages are great too. I got my Critter Nation from Craigslist for very cheap, so look out for deals secondhand. Just sterilize the cages you buy secondhand with a bleach/water solution and rinse it thoroughly, and you should be good. :)
Phew! Sorry if that's a lot of information! To answer your question, you got a fancy rat. Her coloring is called "black hooded." She's beautiful! Get her a sister and you'll have two beautiful little brats to spoil. Good luck. :D
$25 item
$10 item
$05 item
I think that it's really hard to choose for voting, but I think that you should gift four people.
don't go talking too loud you'll cause a landslide, Mr. Jones
I feel bad that I don't know what that's from, it must be from something.
I have some stuff for my rats and [dogs] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CAO4DJI/?coliid=I30API70T4H5Q6&amp;colid=1A9Q350WXYATQ&amp;psc=0&amp;ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it) on my list.
Did you search for the term "space pod?" :) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X2NBNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_TrEJwbM8H7DPF
They're getting old, 2 in about a month, but they're doing well so far, haven't slowed down yet. It is a sad day that I know is coming :/
I think if I had a lot more pee would probably be much more of a problem, but with just two, aside from one peeing on the other when above the other in the cage (which I've seen happen once or twice) they don't really smell bad themselves in my experience. They mostly hang out in one of these at the top of their cage, and I feel like it would be just pooled with pee if they peed in it, which they don't seem to.
http://www.amazon.com/Lixit-Critter-Space-Pod-Large/dp/B002X2NBNQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1373295985&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=spacepod
not sure if you can get that shipped to you but that is where I got it.
:)
Yeah, my rats love their Space Pod, too. Space Pod on Amazon
It's a space pod! They usually ignore it, but it was the perfect spot this morning.
Yup! Amazon!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002X2NBNQ
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002X2NBNQ
i actually just ordered one! we'll see how it works though since i've got picky girls.
Amazing how rats love to cram themselves into tiny spaces.
We have three rats and they all cram themselves into these pods, I really don't see how they could possibly be comfortable!
I'm so sorry you're having to treat infections, it sounds like your cat has a more severe case! :( I am happy to tell you what has worked for us.
To cure this particular flare-up, we added water to her food for hydration and gave her some tuna (more pungent so she would eat it even with her nose clogged).
We also purchased this moving water fountain. She slurps out of that thing where she wouldn't even look at her water bowl before. We also ran a humidifier for a while. She might have been on the up and up anyway, but all of this seemed to do the trick.
I mainly try to reduce her stress by keeping everything consistent, especially the kind of litter I use. If you're not already, do consider using a dust-free corn based litter like World's Best. Their lungs are smaller and the dust can really aggravate them.
Anitra's Vitamineral Mix is something you might want to look into as a wet food supplement. I considered using Feliway like one poster here suggested, but the price kind of kept me from pulling the trigger and we've been fortunate to not have another outbreak.
You might have known all of this already, in which case just ignore me, but I really hope your kitty gets feeling better. The Natural Cat is a book that really helped me after I first adopted. I don't agree with everything she prescribes and she's big on holistic treatments (avoiding the vet and medication as much as possible) but the lady knows her cats and I think everyone has something to learn. When nothing else has worked, it might be worth a shot! Take care!
I totally hear you. Good luck! It's so stressful but worth it Our 3 yr old male kitty had crystals and was hopitalized for 4 days in December. He's great now and even happier than before, playing even more vigorously. I haven't read as many research papers as I'd like to about it but we kinda feel like stress and dehydration/dry food might have factored in though I know that there are cats with other urinary tract issues with different causes or prognosis. He loves drinking out of the tub and we had multiple foster cats/kittens getting in his life and added quite a bit of stress then most of them left but my husband got really ill, my parents visited, so there was even more home stress then he got blocked after a few weeks of me thinking he was marking due to the momma cat he hadn't liked but I think in reality was him having urinary issues.
Anyways, we buy the prescription Royal Canin food on Chewy.com but I am thinking of phasing him over to the over the counter Purina Pro Plan Urinary. He's happy now, plays even more, loves the tub water and his fountain. Got stainless steel to avoid kitty acne but keep it clean! I wish you the best and hope it's a smooth recovery and he makes it through! Ours was on anti spasm meds for awhile after and it took him some time to get back to normal due to the trauma of the catheter. He was dripping and acting quite weird but eventually got back to normal.
You can try this one - it is small and quiet: Pioneer Stainless Pet Fountain
This is the one we have, since we have 3 large dogs as well as the kitty: Drinkwell Large Dog Fountain
Once we got the fountain running, our cat was no longer trying to drink out of the sink, faucet, or the toilet. =)
My cats have this fountain. It's great! It bubbles at the top.
Hi TurbinePoweredVagina, sorry to hear about your kitty. I hope some of this information will be able to help!
First off, good on you for introducing wet food back into his diet! I also suspect that the change to all dry is triggering these blockages. The number one issue concerning cats with urinary crystals water consumption. Cats naturally have a very low thirst drive (as they get virtually all water from their prey, which is ~70% water), and often will not drink until extremely dehydrated. So a transition from a primarily wet diet (70-80% moisture) to a primarily dry diet (~10%) moisture would undoubtedly cause your kitty to consume less water. In essence, a uretic dry food isn't going to do much more for your kitty than if he were eating a generic dry food, as he is likely chronically dehydrated.
When looking for a canned food for your cats (and this applies to all cats, including healthy ones!), look out for a two important things:
Cats are by design, obligate carnivores (teeth shape, short digestive tract to minimize bacteria in prey). They haven't lived with humans long enough to evolutionarily adapt to the consumption of high-carbohydrate diets, and thus, their bodies still lack the necessary enzymes to properly digest carbohydrates. Note that most dry foods are very high in carbs (30%+), due to the necessity of a starch to bond the kibble together. As a result, high-carb dry diets (upwards of 30% - 50% carbs) contribute to maldigestion, hairballs, obesity, kidney diseases, high blood sugar leading to feline diabetes, and chronic dehydration leading to urinary blockages.
In terms of good common canned food brands, may I recommend Wellness (the 12.5 oz cans, look for the Grain Free yellow triangle) or EVO (13 oz cans)? The Wellness website often has promotions and will provide coupons for their products, and EVO offers a frequent buyers club, in which the 10th purchase is free. I find that buying the large cans in bulk (two boxes at a time) is enough to last my cat almost two months. They're pretty economical as the large cans (the EVO ones are $2.69 where I live, no doubt cheaper in the US) end up being around the same price if not cheaper than supermarket brands like Friskies or Fancy Feast, per gram. You should be able to find Wellness in big box pet stores like Petsmart and Petco, however EVO isn't as common and it might only be available in smaller or privately-run stores. If you're in a rush and need to get food fast, Fancy Feast actually isn't terrible; as their classic variety lacks grains and has named protein sources at the top of the ingredient list.
As the main concern with a cat with urinary tract issues is water consumption, here are a couple things you can do to alleviate his condition:
I leave you with some resources that you may find helpful:
tl;dr Cats naturally don't drink enough water so eating an all dry diet will cause dehydration and urinary blockages. Best solution is to switch to a primarily wet diet (grain free for optimum health), get a pet fountain, give tasty broth and lactose-free milk as treats, and add additional water to food during mealtimes.
Hope this helped. Best of luck to you and your little guy!
It's about half the price on amazon.
Declawing is the same as surgically removing the last bone from each of your fingertips. Learn to keep the cat's nails trimmed correctly. Too short and if a cat's not used to it, they can't walk, run, or jump without wobbling until they grow back.
Not all cats like scratching posts -- mine prefers cardboard, but not the 'on-edge' cardboard cat scratchers, so my dad helped me add a wooden 'tray' to the top of the post in which I place flat squares of cardboard cut from boxes. She scratches and sleeps there, and sometimes just perches there to watch out the window. Don't get a carpet-covered scratching post or pad unless you want to teach your cat that scratching carpet is a good idea. =P
I have a Booda Dome for a litter box -- she still tracks some litter. I don't think there's a system out there that will keep cats from tracking any. Some litters are better than others. Covered litter boxes are nice for the humans, but not all cats will adapt to the flaps. Some litters are lower 'dust' than others, and this is better for cats' lungs and humans' alike. =)
Not all cats will respond to catnip or all types of toys. My cat is indifferent to laser pointers, and only likes the actual fur-covered realistic mice. She doesn't care for bell toys, but those little plastic springs drive her nuts (when she's in the mood). Her favorite toy is a wooden wobble 'bead' in which you can place catnip. Also a Da Bird Feather Cat Toy which you can make flutter to sound like a real bird. I'd suggest the non-collapsible one, as I'd suspect my cat would pull that apart. =P
Talk to your vet about what food(s) are actually good for your cat. From my research, you want to avoid bone meal products or and 'meal' products as they include ground bone which is hard on your cat's kidneys. Also avoid grains. Turkey is better than chicken; not all fish are terrible, but you have to consider mercury levels. You should consider only feeding your cat wet food, but this is more expensive, and difficult to manage with hurried schedules. Mine loves kibble and hates having to give that up, so I leave that out all the time and supplement with a big scoop of wet food at night. (These are the best quality, least expensive per-serving foods I've found.) A 6-lb. bag of kibble seems to last my cat ~3 months. At four days (servings) per can, the 12-pack of 12.5 oz. cans last about 1.5 months. You'll need two snap-on plastic can lids. My cat adores salmon as you may see. =P
Not all cats will like all types of cat beds.
Mine LOVES water (she literally demands 'cat showers') and she likes to play with the dripping tub faucet, so next I'm going to get a cat drinking fountain. Cats in general prefer 'fresh' or moving water, so mine always wants clean water in her bowl every time.
Because no one cat will like every toy or bed or litter box, you may have to buy more than one. Talk to your vet about what types to try and how to encourage a cat to like what you buy. I put catnip on my cat's things -- that seems to have worked, but not all cats respond to catnip.
I got this one a few months ago. It looks dope. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0037NKDSG?pc_redir=1412054906&amp;robot_redir=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037NKDSG/
You can try to reduce portions. From what I have read, their stomach has size of their eyeball. 3 medium pellets (as Omega One betta pellets) or 1-2 big (if mouth is big enough, as New Life spectrum betta pellets). The same amount of food, but giving it time to be digested and moving south before the next feeding.
Emaciation theoretically could be due to internal parasites, but you can find shorter articles in search for fish diseases internal parasites. Some of them manifest in stringy poo, some in emaciation, the treatment is different, Prazi for worms and metronidazole for protozoans, both are available in fish stores and online, can't say about coccidia treatment, it could be sold under brand name, not generic name.
I have no experience with this, my fish had different problems.
What you can try too: keeping tank clean, including vacuuming detritus from the gravel, squishing moss ball like a sponge in the old tank water, keeping filter media clean, removing dying plant leaves, regulating light intensity and photo period for optimal for these plants growth. Planted Tank or Aquariums subreddits could help. Planted Tank can tell what to do when brown spots appear on java fern. Java fern roots have to be tied or lightly superglued to something (rock, wood, decorations) or kept down by some gravel pieces.
More water changes, slowly adding new water to allow fish to accommodate to it.
When feeding fish, watch that food was actually eaten, not lost in the gravel and sits rotting there.
For ammonia, from what I have seen online, it was recommended to keep a lot of fast growing plants as cabomba, moneyworth, elodea, hornworth, water lettuce, duckweed. But check their temperature range, elodea, hornworth and salvinia were dying in my tanks.
But with this amount of everything in your tank you shouldn't have ammonia at all, if lost food, decaying plants and waste was removed.
Nitrates are removed by water changes. You can make denitrator (cut water bottle with Seachem De*Nitrate or Matrix in it, set above sponge filter, you can see this in search for DIY biofilter), I tried, it helps, but water changes in small volume are better and easier.
Check by finger all internal surfaces in decorations, if there are sharp edges. My betta log had them, had to remove it.
Now testing stuff that can really help, if you can afford it:
API GH and KH test kit, most useful after ammonia and nitrates test kit. Results will be 1 drop = 1 dGH or dKH (degree of hardness). GH is most important, related to osmoregulation and health, see this, scroll down to kidneys. KH should be some to prevent pH swings, but not too high, harsh for the fish. You have to know them in your tank and tap water and make adjustments, if necessary. Aquarium subreddit can help with it.
TDS, measured by handheld pen, around $15 on Amazon, it has to have "Calibrate with NaCl" on the back, and 342 ppm calibrating liquid for it. I'm using HM TDS meter.
What does it do: bettas are low TDS fish, you can keep it this way by diluting tap water (if yours is hard) by distilled water and doing top off by distilled water too. You will have to keep an eye on GH and KH at the same time too, TDS could increase because of organics accumulation in the tank, if GH decreases, then more water changes are due.
Eventually you will see the dynamics of all of this and it will be not necessary to measure GH and KH frequently. With TDS it takes second to take readings, no problems with doing this even every day.
would this work to test?
https://www.amazon.com/API-GH-KH-Test-Kit/dp/B003SNCHMA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466430907&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aquarium+water+hardness+test
The API kit I bought had PH, high range PH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate testing, I thought that'd be enough.
But all the like, seriously fish and liveaqauria stuff keep listing preferred PHs so I was kind of worried when I saw that. They listed kribs as being OK to 8.0 at least so I thought they might be an option. Damn damn damn
Yeah i think the shells will grow back. No problem, glad I could help!
You should also get a hardness & carbonate hardness test kit.
It's general hardness and carbonate hardness. These two parameters are important in a shrimp tank. RCS need a GH of 6–8 and KH of 2-5. From the picture you posted, the white band below the head can be from lack of GH, too much protein, their growth is faster than their body can molt.
You can get a test like this one https://www.amazon.com/API-GH-KH-Test-Kit/dp/B003SNCHMA
Check this out https://www.aquariumcreation.com/blogs/news/setting-up-a-shrimp-tank when you can. It should give you a good overview of what your shrimp need.
Strips are inaccurate. The Master Kit is $22 at Petsmart, they'll price match their online price.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_o0rEDbS5WQW3F
The kH and gH kit is on Amazon, might be at Petsmart but I never seen.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003SNCHMA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_P0rEDbC12T7Z6
I use test kits from API:
pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, hardness
For their main food source, I use calcium-enriched algae pellets.
Not every cray will eat fish, so I wouldn't worry about that at all.
A 10 gallon might be ok for your crayfish right now, but it will eventually require at least a 20 gallon tank (ideally 30+).
Here are some steps you can take to help out your cray:
It's great that you're reaching out for more information. It sounds like you and your cray will really benefit from doing some more online research. Read up, there is a lot to learn!
The gh/kh test drop kits are available on amazon for 6 bucks with prime/free shipping, this was about 10 dollars less than my local petsmart. Also the master test kit is about 6 bucks cheaper on amazon as well. Good luck with your shrimps :)
... I don't work for amazon or anything, I just really like a good deal, and was kinda miffed at petsmart for trying to overcharge so much.
From my understanding, dH (German degree of hardness) is not a specific measurement but rather a conversion to/from ppm (1 dH = 17.5mg/L or ppm).
okay, i set out the cup to test it again tomorrow.
is this a good test? i can't get it right away but i'll do it asap. if it turns out my kh is too low, what can i do to fix that?
you can get the [api gh kh test] (https://www.amazon.com/API-TEST-Freshwater-Aquarium-Water/dp/B003SNCHMA) and that will give you exact numbers on how hard it is (gh) and the calcium in the water (kh)
Excel itself is simply a source of carbon for the plants - some love it, and some hate it (mostly mosses and algae related plants). Excel is a stand-in or supplement for a proper Co2 system - plants need Co2 to grow - fish will produce small amounts of Co2 and plants produce Co2 at night in small quantities, but a proper system will be needed to reach high levels of dissolved Co2, which may or may not be needed for certain plants. Adding Co2 will drop the pH in the tank, so it will need to be closely regulated - I'm not sure if Excel effects the pH. I do use Excel but my tanks all have Co2 regulators tied to the pH so any drop in pH would stall my Co2 and hold the pH at a stable level.
Plants need a lot of other things to survive. Different plants will need different levels of nutrition, but the primary ferts to look at would be carbonates/bicarbonates, minerals, nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.
Carbonates and Bicarbonates are measured as "KH", aka Carbonate Hardness.
Minerals are measured as "GH", aka General Hardness.
Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium are the main elements in most fertilizers, and are known as the NPK values or NPK ratio, see Labeling of fertilizer.
KH and GH can be tested for using simple tests such as the highly regarded API test kit. Most tap water has some level of KH and GH that's probably fine for most plants, but it's something to look into, and you should definitely be increasing both if you're using distilled or RO water. Aquatic life such as fish and invertebrates will need a KH and GH that match their natural habitat, most plants are more forgiving. Seachem sells both Equilibrium for GH and Alkaline Buffer for KH. Alkaline Buffer can also be used with Acid Buffer which converts KH into Co2.
As for general ferts, root tabs can be great, but you can also use liquid fertilizers, such as Seachem's line of Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium, along with Seachem Flourish. Whether to choose a liquid fertilizer or root tabs largely comes down to the kind of plant as some get most of their nutrients from the water column and some get them mostly from the substrate. A good indicator is where the roots are on the plant. If the plant mostly or only has roots below the substrate, then of course root tabs is a good option, but some plants will also have roots above the substrate which means they will be able to grab nutrients out of the water column with ease.
There are a lot of other trace elements that plants can benefit from, but the primary ones you need to look out for are NPK. Sorry to throw you into the deep end, so to speak, but Excel on its own is not nearly enough to provide proper nutrition for plants, and depending on your setup and what you're doing to treat your incoming water, you may not be doing enough to support a planted tank.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003SNCHMA/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_zVhlybM53ZDAG
Here ya go brother. Cheapest I've seen it. Comes with everything you need including glass vials.
Make sure you cycle your tank before adding the fish in. If you don't know what that is, read this guide: https://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles_51/fishless-cycling-article.htm
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As for the gravel issue, the problem with that coloured gravel is that the unnatural colours can stress out the fish, not that it is inert. Substrate is there to stop the fish from feeling stressed (it provides a more natural environment and doesn't reflect fish like the glass bottom does), to decorate the tank, to host beneficial bacteria that help with the nitrogen cycle, if you have bottom-feeding fish like corydoras to allow them to forage through it as they would in the wild and, if you have root-feeding plants, to provide nutrients for them. However, some plants feed through the water column instead, and if you do have root-feeding plants, you will probably want root tabs or a soil substrate to provide nutrients (this doesn't have to cover the whole tank). Gravel isn't normally what you would use to provide nutrients to plants, anyway, so it being inert doesn't make it useless.
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Shells and even some substrates can be used to add minerals to the water to harden it, but whether or not you will need this depends on what the water in your local area is like and the species of fish you are keeping. Bettas generally like quite soft water, so this probably wouldn't be necessary. You should be able to check how hard the water in your area is with a google search. If not, you can get testing kits for this such as this API one https://www.amazon.co.uk/API-CALCIUM-Saltwater-Aquarium-1-Count/dp/B003SNCHMA?th=1 You'll also want to research the preferred water hardness of whatever species of fish you are keeping. If you do need to raise it, you will be able to do it more accurately by using a product such as seachem equilibrium, or mixing magnesium and calcium yourself, but you will need to research how to do this. Shells and substrates that raise water hardness are normally used for fish that need extremely hard water, such as cichlids.
You can get a test kit for $8 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003SNCHMA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MlIaBb9KNMRDR
It's essentially performing a titration to test carbonate hardness (KH). That is the single biggest measure of the buffer you have that is keeping your pH stable. If KH is low, your PH is pretty much guaranteed to be unstable.
I don’t think you want an alkalinity tester, unless you’re looking at something that gives multiple types of read outs? This will measure KH. ppm and dKH are both measurements of concentration and can be converted back and forth. The API kit has a nice little table that directly tells you how many ppm is equivalent to a given dKH. There are probably tables online too
They got this one here! It's kind of big but my mom wanted to have room for everyone. And they LOVE it.
We bought this monster castle from Amazon. It's $120 now but I think we paid $99 at the time. Well worth it at either price. 2 cats, and the both love it. Gets them high off the ground, out of dog range. Huge. You need a good 3x3 spot for it at least.
My goodness we could be twinsies. We seem to have the same taste in cat trees for one thing. I don't know about you, but I picked that specific tree because my little guy likes to explore high spaces, and loves hiding in boxes. So between the height and the enclosures, it seems perfect.
As for an item off my list I'd like, this weight watchers cook book would be perfect. The used one, of course.
When I got my new job, I ended up having to leave my kittens with my parents. I had never left them for more than 48 hours at that point, so it's been really hard being without them. Every time I come home to visit them, I buy them a present to make it as happy an occasion as possible.
Last time I went home to visit them, I bought them this cat tree in blue (pics). The time before that, I bought them this bed.
Kitten appeasement
You got the wrong one. Got this thing a year ago and it's the best quality one I've ever seen.
Super cheap on amazon hey? $100 including shipping. The thing is massive.
Or if you like blue
Let her into your room! She'll be much happier with more space. I highly recommend having a cat tree or two in your place. Give her a box to hide in. Or even try one of these out!
KOJIMA Shark Round House Puppy Bed with Pet Bed Mat, Small to Medium (Gray, Small) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HRXQ90I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dcINybCJMQWEE
Don't prevent her from hiding, but do challenge her once in a while to be comfortable in different rooms and open spaces.
Try the toy distraction on your 2 year old cat. That's what I meant. If she's showing aggression, it's one of the best ways to distract her from the cat who's more shy.
Make sure the new cat isn't doing anything to provoke your 2 year old cat. If she is, that behavior will need to be adjusted before the 2 year old cat can be comfortable with her.
100% agree on the tuna. If you'd like to learn about cat nutrition, I highly recommend http://www.thecatsite.com for its active forums and articles on feline nutrition (they can also give great input on behaviors)
Here are two nutrition articles to get you started:
http://www.thecatsite.com/a/how-to-choose-the-right-food-for-your-cat
http://www.thecatsite.com/a/grain-free-cat-food-what-does-it-mean
You'll find that grain free high protein wet/raw foods are best for your babies as unlike people and even dogs, cats are obligate carnivores. (Here is some of that science: https://www.waltham.com/document/nutrition/cat/dog/differences-between-cat-and-dog/284/ )
My recommendation is making a small trip to an independent pet food store (not petco, petsmart, or even pet supplies plus) Take a look on yelp for good ones in your area. (Just search for pet food stores) If there are none, try Chewy.com. They sell all sorts of pet foods (you can filter by grain free) The forums on thecatsite are very good in terms of discussion of different commercial and home-made food options. (As you might be able to tell, I've done a lot of my own research!)
But yes. You are correct. Plain tuna does not contain the amount of Taurine (that's just one or the major ones) cats need to thrive. Fish generally is something you should stray from due to high mercury content and addictiveness. (Dry food is also very addictive and contributes most to obesity, digestive issues, UTIs, urinary crystals, and more)
And good! Yes, be creative in your ways to distract her! If she's not enjoying her favorite toy, try a new one. (Cats love Da'Bird and similar long (~3 ft) fishing pole type toys. ) Check out these links.
GoCat Da Bird Rod and Feather Cat Toys, Assorted Colors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BOVEU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wzINybW7DMFV9
Cats really jump for these types of long fishing pole toys that use feathers or other fur like parts. I do recommend always having a handy supply of strong duct tape to fix minor issues and strengthen the parts of well-used toys. (I had to tightly reinforce the end of the rod that connects to the string so the end piece holding the string wouldn't come off)
Petmate Jackson Galaxy Cat Crawl Solid Tunnel, Green/Orange https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O3GWKHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UDINyb34HXAEW
Great space for stalking and hiding during play
Nature In Hand Cat Play House with Catnip and Scratcher (Cat Scratching House) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AJAHOC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DFINybC4C5TWA
Triple function hide, stealth play, and cardboard scratcher. I have one that my cat loves! You can sometimes find seasonal looking ones on clearance at local pet stores (I have a gingerbread xmas themed one that I got on clearance for half the price on amazon) Cardboard scratchers, to me, are a must. Whether it's something like this or just by itself.
Nano Robotic Cat Toy (White/Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RWU17KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kyINyb5FX7DB2
This one is great if you have hard wood or tile floors. Otherwise, pass.
The idea here is to give them more enrichment, hide space, and ways to play.
That said, having more vertical space is also a really good idea.
You know how cat trees (especially the 6 ft ones) are like 200 dollars at pet stores?
Check this out:
Go Pet Club Cat Tree, 50W x 26L x 72H, Beige https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WGGWQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_awINybGSAA2EB
BestPet CT-9073 Cat Tree Scratcher Play House Condo Furniture Toy, 73-Inch, Beige https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NOL7OQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-wINybKYYYCDX
You can find more on amazon. Groupon or eBay are also good sources. Your cats will be more comfortable if they can observe their territory from a high place rather than hiding behind a toilet. I really do think it would help give them more confidence. You could even install cat shelves on your walls if you want to. But a cat tree(or two!) goes a long way!
Give them their own favorite places to occupy so that they are better able to share their space.
Non-mobile link: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WGGWQA?cache=ac906b1b18dfe0a371732a246143f392&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;qid=1412972418&amp;sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1
I'll link you the ones I've had that I can find...
The go pet 72" tree has been our longest lasting one, looks to be $77. It has the stupid ramps, but overall is a pretty good design imo. My cats have not been interested in the lower "condo", but one does use the upper condo.
This is our most recently bought tree, the armarkat 74", which I don't recommend. It's not sturdy: the base is very small, and the two posts in the top half are right on top of each other.
I'll hunt around and see if I can find the model one of our cats peed onfound it! It was also an armarkat. If you look at the picture, see that platform on the lower right, with short post and mini platform on it? Yeah that cracked in half pretty fast, it's only supported on one side. One of my cats also peed in the hammock, but she really loved sleeping in it until then.FUCKKKK I have one on the way from amazon RN. But the reviews are pretty good https://www.amazon.com/Go-Pet-Club-Tree-Beige/dp/B003WGGWQA/ref=sr_1_3/146-9235491-6738541?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494510298&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=cat+tree+72 I also read to put some wood glue under all the parts that you can and under the boxes to make it more durable.
He's about 11lbs or 5 kilograms. I think it should be something very similar to this one :
http://www.amazon.com/Go-Pet-Club-Tree-Beige/dp/B003WGGWQA/ref=sr_1_7?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453841631&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=cat+tree
These are all super similar to cat trees I've made:
http://www.amazon.com/Go-Pet-Club-Tree-Beige/dp/B003WGGWQA/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420558215&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=cat+tree
http://www.amazon.com/Go-Pet-Club-Brown-F68/dp/B007UI5LGS/ref=sr_1_7?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420558215&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=cat+tree
http://www.amazon.com/Go-Pet-Club-Furniture-106-Inch/dp/B0015EZEW4/ref=sr_1_55?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420558291&amp;sr=1-55&amp;keywords=cat+tree
Window hammocks are also pretty swell. And you can buy grass patches online!! If you decided to do a cat tree (which will give you lots of options for height and hidey holes) make it yourself!! Store bought ones are generally crap. All you need is PVC pipe, nails, boards, and carpet scraps (which can often be gotten for supa cheap at carpet installation places)
So is the downvoted guy right here or not? I happened to buy a cat tree from Amazon like 2 days ago lol. RUH ROH.
Edit: oh btw I got this one. Great reviews so surely it's fine. And my dad is a builder so that'll help lol. :)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003WGGWQA/ref=ya_st_dp_summary
They're pretty sturdy boards. Very heavy. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003WGGWQA?cache=ac906b1b18dfe0a371732a246143f392&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;qid=1412972418&amp;sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1
On my phone, don't know how to format that. But that's what I bought. It actually arrived in four days. Crazy.
I'm a fan too. I and several friends have this big bad boy, but they have smaller ones too. Actually, I have a smaller one of theirs upstairs and the bigger one downstairs. They aren't the most stylish but they get the job done.
Mine have stood up pretty well. The smaller one is a bit less steady than the bigger one, probably because it has a smaller base compared to height. It also probably wasn't put together as well.
I wouldn't call them the sturdiest of cat trees, though. Mine have held up relatively fine, except that the sisal has come unwrapped on one of the posts. And though the mice-on-a-string on mine have held up surprisingly well despite getting beat up routinely, most everyone else I know have had their mice strings break from cat abuse.
Still, they're my favorite, they are relatively cheap for the size and my cats seem to love leaping about them. They are second only to window perches for things that my cats enjoy.
use it gently
Not sure what your budget is, but there are a few suggestions I can make.
2. Make grooming easy with bribes! Healthy treats like Catty Shack or Greenies make Brush Time easier for both parties.
3. A lot of professional groomers charge an arm and a leg for cats (because of their arms and legs), so do the grooming yourself! You will need a Furminator, nail clippers, and cleansing wipes. Groom often, and invest in a scratching post.
4. As long as you are using a tool for grooming cats (i.e.: Furminator) you don't have to worry about overdoing it. Brush as thoroughly as you can, and stop when your brush starts coming out clean (or nearly free of loose hairs).
5. General tips: Buy the best food your budget allows. Preferably wet food, or a diet half wet food and half dry food. Go grain free, like Merrick and/or Soulistic. For a healthy, shiny coat I would recommend Pet Naturals' Daily Best; And to reduce hairballs, Hairball. Don't use hairball remedies that contain petroleum jelly, it will give your baby the runs :(
EDIT: Formatting
Adding to what everyone else said, get a washable cat bed and a furminator. The furminator seems expensive, but I haven't seen a single hairball since I've started using it. And, I am able to use it to clean the hair off of the cat tree.
The FURminator it's around 25$.
I have one and seriously this is the best. If you have pets and still "try" to not having fur on you all the time this is the Shedding Tool you need.
Ok. I need this deshedding brush for my cat. it will make grooming her much easier as she has a thick double coat. This will make her more comfortable and It will also leave less hair to fall out on my furniture and carpets, so less cleaning for me and my friends with cat allergies might be more comfortable in my apartment.
If this is out of your price range, either of the phone cases would also be much appreciated. Because I drop my phone a lot and its only a matter of time before I break it.
Try getting a de-furminator and brush him on a daily basis. They love that stuff and it helps with shedding as well. I have this one and it works wonders. I suggest buying it on Amazon because Petsmart will rip you off.
Awwwwww. I just noticed your username! I feel the same way with two kitties that shed like it's going out of style. I have a Furminator that was recommended to me on Reddit by a professional cat groomer! That thing is seriously awesome!!!
https://www.amazon.com/FURminator-Long-Hair-deShedding-Large/dp/B0040QS3PO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=27MPMD21ST02M&amp;keywords=furminator+for+cats&amp;qid=1554772737&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=furminator+for+cats&amp;sr=8-3
I use this one on my cat. It’s a little pricey but it’s really helped a lot
It's been an unseasonably warm winter here so it's starting too.
The defurminator brush is really good for pulling loose hair. It's a robust grooming tool but even 2 minutes can get a handful of it.
Also for the super long haired coats, a groomer's comb is the best for separating the hairs down to the root and preventing mats.
I have four cats and those two tools along with a general slicker brush really help me manage. I had to shave down my maine coon due to gastrointestinal issues but still have two long haired cats and a short hair.
Long haired cats MUST be regularly groomed. Bring her to the vet or a groomer, buy a Furminator (make sure you get the long hair version, it's generally cheaper on Amazon than in pet stores), and begin brushing her regularly (but don't over-brush). And clip her claws, as well, that way she can't scratch you. Here's a good video on beginning to clip your cat's claws on your own.
If the cat is too stressed to be groomed, they can be sedated at the vet, and since she's fighting it I'd suggest the vet for now. But then regularly groom her coat and nails and get her used to it. You'll probably have to supplement with professional grooming.
My family's long hair cat had two completely different personalities between them figuring out you actually have to groom a long hair (this from a dad who has a cocker spaniel and gets her professionally groomed!) She used to be grumpy because mats HURT, now she's a cuddle bug.
PetFusion Ultimate Cat Scratcher Lounge (Walnut Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004X6UEH6/
Our cats are just obsessed with it. One of them is very protective of it; this is like the one thing in the house that he's decided is HIS, so he lays on it when he wants to be left alone. Considering you never know if your cats will like something you buy, it's surprising when you get two of them to agree so much.
We adopted two kittens from a litter of seven, born to a barn cat, who had no human contact until about 8-weeks old.
The male came around quickly. The female, however, would just hiss and run away.
Here are a few things that have helped:
I got my tablet, sat on the floor with a "husband pillow" and played YouTube videos of cats meowing. She came over to investigate the sound and sat on my lap. It was like magic. I can't explain it. My hypothesis is that the sound reminded her of being with the rest of her litter and maybe she thought I was her momma?
Try to avoid making direct eye contact. I guess it's a sign of aggression. When you do reach out to pet her, bring your hand from the side or behind. Reaching toward her head from the front or above can be perceived as an act of aggression.
Next step: get her to sit on the couch with us.
We have a large cardboard lounger she likes to sit on. This one. So I bought a smaller one that would fit on the couch between us. Then we bribed her with treats to get her on there with us.
The couch/lounger thing has taken a while, but now she jumps up there on her own, waiting for us to join her on the couch for dinner and TV.
She still doesn't like to be picked up or held. Next on my to-do list is to get her to sit on my lap.
The cat sounds like it's bored and has pent up energy. Pets are like little toddlers: If you dont entertain them, they will do it themselves and it can be destructive at times. Here are some things you can help redirect and expand say energy:
Hunt/play:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HHYRTCT/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009R3SFBC/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3NI31Y/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HBC5M6Q/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O127GZU/
Perches/things to climb/scratch
https://www.amazon.com/CatastrophiCreations-Deluxe-Cat-Playplace-Wall-Mounted/dp/B01EXLSKRQ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5TUVXU/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BA6LSK/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004X6UEH6/
These are just some ideas. Also go to your local pet store. If the cat doesn't like the new toy, usually they will let you return the toy for a full refund.
I got one of these: PetFusion about 3 years ago and my cat hasn't lost interest in it yet. In fact we got a kitten about a year and a half ago and he started using it immediately. Well worth the money and seems like it will last at least another 3-4 years.
My cat loves sisal posts but won't touch cardboard apparently! I bought her this fancy scratcher 2 months ago and she's only scratched it like twice lol https://www.amazon.ca/PetFusion-Scratcher-Construction-significantly-alternatives/dp/B004X6UEH6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=petfusion+scratcher&qid=1551210284&s=gateway&sr=8-1
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The reviews rave about how their cats love to scratch it and are laying on it all the time. My cat never does either. But she loves playing with toys in the holes so atleast its not a total waste :p
My dogs love their bed by Bessie and Barnie. It's so damn expensive (think about 125) but it's got a washable cover and it's super luxe. [see website here] (https://www.bessieandbarnie.com/)
[Favorite treats] (https://www.amazon.com/Zukes-Naturals-Roasted-Chicken-16-Ounce/dp/B000H0ZJHW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491847332&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=zukes)
Also we got a [KitNipBox] (https://www.kitnipbox.com/) and also the dogs love a [BarkBox] (https://barkbox.com/)
[Cats fave scratcher] (https://www.amazon.com/PetFusion-Scratcher-Cardboard-Construction-unverified/dp/B004X6UEH6/ref=sr_1_8?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491847932&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=cat+scratcher) This thing lasts around 6 months! Love it so much.
And if I may state, I do love our Roomba. It's pet related right?
*edit to add pure Roomba love ;)
In my experience, cats kind of do what they want but you can do some things to curb their behavior. If he likes catnip, you can put catnip in the places you want him to go. Also, you might find it beneficial to get him some more places that are "his" like a cat tree and a laydown scratcher. My cat is partial to this one and will lie in it all the time.
The key to getting him to know that you don't really want to hang out is to humanely give him signals that cats understand to say "hey don't get in my space." Yelling, setting him down somewhere else or scolding won't work because cats down understand that. You can try things like blowing air in his direction if he's on your lap, or get a squirt bottle to mist water at him if he's somewhere you don't like. Make sure it's a mist, and not a directed nozzle squirt.
As an aside, you should probably talk to your GF about this.
Hope this helps, good luck.
Try getting one like this one, this one or this one
Using catnip or catnip oil will make it more attractive to her. I can't guarantee that she'll never scratch the furniture, but most cats prefer things like this that have a better texture for scratching.
Owning two cats is really in many ways easier than owning one. They become lower maintenance. Of course you have to spend slightly more time feeding, cleaning the litterbox, grooming etc, but the cats are happeir, better behaved, and much more pleasant to spend time with, which in my opinion is worth the small amount of extra effort.
Maybe this? http://www.amazon.com/PetFusion-Ultimate-Scratcher-Lounge-Walnut/dp/B004X6UEH6/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449587113&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=amazon+cardboard+cat
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004X6UEH6
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make sure to check out the pictures in the customer reviews section: https://i.imgur.com/un9yTpc.jpg
This would make a nice gift. If you don't like that, then just about anything else from the same website would be nice. It's all sciency and fun, so I'm sure he'd enjoy it.
Species fall into niches and develop ecological status-quos though, which I think is what most ecological worry is about. It is very interesting though to realize that the system isn't self-contained. I like those ecosphere things, but I always found them a little misleading. They seem to represent a self-contained system, a circle of life that is a complex perpetual motion machine, but in reality it only works because of a constant influx of energy.
As far as conservation goes, I don't know if I would have cared if I got to see do-dos, but I'd feel like a dick if I deprived future generations of some of the cool stuff this planet has to offer. I'd feel worse if I contributed toward the particular undoing of humanity.
The next best thing in desk decoration culture!
I've wanted one of these myself since I was little, it's a tiny shrimp ecosystem: EcoSphere Closed Aquatic Ecosystem, Small Sphere https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005IZOB5M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UopizbPNQW0QA
There's a bunch of geeky options here: http://www.thinkgeek.com/homeoffice/geeky-office-supplies/
Amazon has a cool section of interesting workspace items: https://www.amazon.com/stream/0ee129b6-20d0-4bc1-b100-5fadf9e625b3/ref=strm_theme_workspace?asCursor=WyIxLjYiLCJ0czEiLCIxNDk1MzI0ODAwMDAwIiwiIiwiUzAwMTQ6MDpudWxsIiwiUzAwMTQ6MjoxIiwiUzAwMTQ6MDotMSIsIiIsIiIsIjAiLCJzdWIxIiwiMTQ5NTMyNzQ2NDc4NiIsImhmMS1zYXZlcyIsIjE0OTUzMjM5MDAwMDAiLCJ2MSIsIjE0OTUzMjg1MTI5MTciXQ%3D%3D&amp;asCacheIndex=0&amp;asYOffset=-231
You could always get him a Self Contained Ecosystem. I've heard good things about those.
Or on the cheaper side: A live pet moss ball in a jar.
http://www.amazon.com/EcoSphere-Closed-Aquatic-Ecosystem-Sphere/dp/B005IZOB5M
Name: "EcoSphere"
$60 - $410
Product Link: https://www.amazon.com/EcoSphere-Closed-Aquatic-Ecosystem-Sphere/dp/B005IZOB5M/
I think it is hard to say, but I found this And it says it will live for around 2 to 3 years.
I don't know why it will die off, if it's the water, the shrimp population or the plant, but I find it fascinating that this is possible at all.
But this is a very basic ecosystem with a basic lifeform with very basic sustenance.
An EcoSphere
I would pamper myself with this Ecosphere. I think it would be so relaxing to look at! Plus the whole idea of the thing is just cool.
Your jewelry is AMAZING!!!! The things I would do for that birds nest necklace... lol Thank you so much for the chance to win some!! Im super excited!
If I got Kitten mittens for my cat, I think she would murder me in my sleep. They would be so darn cute though...lol
HAPPY FOUR MONTH BIRTHDAY LITTLE LUNAR3!!! <3
Ogni animale ha i suoi pro e contro, a meno di non prendere questo
The Amazon page of the product itself says: "There is no feeding or water changes required. The average life span is between 2 and 3 years"
My gf has it in her tank using the lighting it came with which is three crappy LEDs. I mean they're bright but not like my Nicrew over the tank LED setup (which is also $20 and fantastic if you need lighting).
Gave her maybe a 4" cutting from my 5.5 gallon walstad and it branched out already and is probably 6-7" tall after a few weeks. No ferts, just one betta to shit in it for nutrients.
Looking to buy my sons and I our first Betta fish. They are 9 and 3 and I think it is something that we can enjoy together while teaching them some responsibility and work ethic in the process. Not looking to spend an arm and a leg, but would like the nicest setup available for $100 or less (including filter system and heater). I've linked a couple of aquariums below, but feel free to steer me in the direction of some others and/or better deals/quality. We are limited on space, so I won't be able to do anything more than a 5g tank. I've never owned fish, so I'm a complete noob here. Any and all help is appreciated!!!
http://www.petsmart.com/fish/supplies/aquariums-and-stands/aquariums/elive-3-gallon-aquaponics-semi-circle-aquarium-kit-40418.html?cgid=300065
Tetra 29095 Cube Aquarium Kit, 3-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CA7W7E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_s4p.ybQZFS8V8
Penn Plax Curved Corner Glass Aquarium Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069RR2CC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y5p.ybJPG54RG
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hawkeye-5-Gallon-Panaview-Aquarium-with-LED-Lighting-and-Power-Filter/55134441
I just bought a 2 gallon tank with a filter but do I get real plants or fake? And she has marbles at the bottom but are marbles safe and clean?
Also, she only gave him 2-3 little Betta fish pellets a day. Is there something healthier I can give him?
This is the sponge filter I currently have - SPonge
This is what I was looking to get (not at all sure) - FIlter
I forgot the exact name of the catfish but I believe they are Panda Catfish - or look very similar. This is 1 https://imgur.com/OkgmIJj the other one look exactly the same but about half again as big.
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I hve 2 air pumps. 1 came with the 3 gallon tank set up I got on Amazon - see Here (just realized its a 3 gallon not a 5)
And then I purchased an air pump - Pump
And maybe I got the name wrong for the glofish, the pet store I could swore said neon tetra on the tank but I have those and definitely not that - https://imgur.com/8xNmjPi .EDIT- You can see them better in the OP picture if you click on it. Reason I ask is because my Betta was going after them the first day and they seemed SUPER chill. I haven't seen them try to nip at anything so far. Although its been 3 days. Also the catfish was in the tank w them so I figured they would get a long.
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OK so the guy in the petstore told me i can have up to 20 fish in the 10 gallon. It's a private store not petco or petsmart/petland etc. Is that not the case then? I don't want to crowd my tank I was just planning on getting 2 more colors of the "Glofish" and that was probably going to be it.
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Thanks!!
I much prefer glass tanks, personally. I feel they hold up better and are less prone to scratches. Here's one that's a bit smaller but a good price:
Tetra 29095 Cube Aquarium Kit, 3-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CA7W7E/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_tXMrub0Y9NDCE
Also, with a square tank you'll have more of a footprint for plants and decorations etc.
Just my two cents. :) hope this helps!
Edit: try your LFS, too. I know mine sells 5 gallon cubes for around $25.
Hi! Thank you so much for sharing Jarrariums. I checked it out and it has tons of ideas and useful info. I'm not familiar with some of the terms you mentioned: spec, mods and spray bar. Forgive my ignorance, but I would love to learn so I can keep shrimp happy!
You can check the aquarium that I bought here
Thank you for all your help!
As someone that's gone thru the same scenario as you I'm going to give you some possible options you can take that will make things way easier on you. The initial investment may be on the higher side but it's the equivalent of a couple dinners and a movie for some high quality stuff that'll last a long time.
If that's too much money this is also a good budget tank: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-29095-Cube-Aquarium-3-Gallon/dp/B008CA7W7E/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506546844&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=aquarium+kit
yea divide it, keep in mind bettas do jump, or buy a really cheep 2.5 gallon tank. http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-29095-Cube-Aquarium-3-Gallon/dp/B008CA7W7E/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426133030&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=aquariums
http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-17771-Desktop-Aquarium-Black/dp/B00404FLME/ref=sr_1_23?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426133030&amp;sr=1-23&amp;keywords=aquariums
I’ll definitely look into that! I currently have him in this tank but might need something a bit bigger as he grows as well.
Do you think you could sneak in a 3 gallon?
I kept a betta in this tank with some success. The filter it comes with unfortunately has a high failure rate, but it worked well while it worked, and you can always upgrade to a better one.
Alternatively, if you can get a filter to fit the 2.5 gallon, it would make a huge difference for a fish in terms of water quality. It's just that most filters are probably going to be too bulky for that small a tank and too quick of a flow for betta or other small fish. Maybe a sponge filter? I've never used one before but I've heard them recommended a lot for smaller betta tanks.
Hey I'm looking to get started. I came across two Betta fish from a friend. Awful condition. Tiny tank, no filter, no heat, no light. I'm planning to give one away and buy a tank on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008CA7W7E/ref=s9_simh_gw_d0_g199_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=mobile-1&amp;pf_rd_r=1S17GHMD53Z8M6HXA2Z6&amp;pf_rd_t=36701&amp;pf_rd_p=2068141862&amp;pf_rd_i=mobile
Sorry in advance. I'm on my phone. I'm a teenager so money isn't exactly infinite. I was wondering if this was a good deal of not. Tips and advice would be nice too.
Not as fancy, but... Catit Senses 2.0 Self Groomer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3NI2PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_15qIAbW8SCPC3
I found one for $5 on amazon here
Amazon confirmed!
Catit Senses 2.0 Self Groomer https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00D3NI2PG/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_cmvUDb1NTCHWH
https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-50-Gallon/dp/B00DOG63OY
It's gone up a little since I purchased. Little creative home depot, I used garden hose splitter and tapped off my washer. The discharge ran into sump pit. I bought the extra float valve kit and let it fill a 5 gal bucket at a time that has a drain nozzle I drilled into the bottom. Works pretty well.
One of the first results when using Amazon is this.
Personally I use and can recommend the Dennerle RO system, but I don‘t think they‘re available outside germany.
Just FYI, you can pick up an RO Buddy three stage and a DI canister for the grand total of around $85 on Amazon.
Steer clear of tap water, even with the conditioner. As I previously posted elsewhere in this thread, tap water carries with it stuff that we don't care about, but our tanks do, like free silicates or cyano.
I got RO Buddie on Amazon. I hook it up in the shower and use 5 gallon water bottles I found at Walmart. It's really amazing how clean the water is! As I have mostly bettas and tetras I remineralize by mixing with my tap water.
https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-50-Gallon/dp/B00DOG63OY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519119901&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ro+buddie
You will want this. Tap water you say? That is the likely culprit. So you will need this, and this. After this your troubles should be gone.
There's actually this which I'm really thinking of!
Your link didn't come through for some reason, but this looks reasonable (~$100):
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G8GNWRY
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EDIT: actually this one is cheaper and will probably work fine (has decent reviews): https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-50-Gallon/dp/B00DOG63OY
I'm using an RO Buddie purchased from Amazon for $52 > https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-50-Gallon/dp/B00DOG63OY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=RO+Buddie&amp;qid=1558694883&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1
This works well for my needs.
I use it for my plants, have been getting ~4g every 3-4 days for a year and a half.
Aquatic Life RO Buddie Three Stage Reverse Osmosis, 50-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOG63OY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_R-YWBbBYBWAKF
It’s like this one but 4 stages. It says 50 gallons but it’ll definitely function properly longer than that.
I got mine for about $160 I believe. Mine included the PH+ mineralization stage. This one in link doesn’t have that but I guess price might of went up. Either way there’s one I see for $50. Get that one... at end of the day it’s gonna be much more cleaner than any other home filter and you probably won’t need the mineral stage
Reviews look good:
Aquatic Life RO Buddie Three Stage Reverse Osmosis, 50-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOG63OY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LWjvCbAV91QC1
APEC Top Tier Alkaline Mineral pH+ 75 GPD 6-Stage Ultra Safe Reverse Osmosis Drinking Water Filter System (ESSENCE ROES-PH75) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NWZ1RCK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fXjvCbJNVNDBP
I'm looking at these two RO systems. Should I pay extra for the four stage model at the cost of half the GPD?
4 stage 50 gpd includes deionization filter
3 stage 100 gpd
https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-50-Gallon/dp/B00DOG63OY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500572872&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=RO+buddie
I personally use this. After a year of use (I average 2-3 gallons a day, including the water I drink), I measure 5-6 ppm on my TDS meter, so well within range still.
I had issues for years with my tap water being around 500ppm from the tap, always caused weird deficiencies and growth. I bought one of these on Amazon for $50
Aquatic Life RO Buddie Three Stage Reverse Osmosis, 50-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOG63OY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JwCUCb7AP4JMR
Works great, been pulling the ppm down to 10 now for over a year on the original filters, takes about 4 hours to produce 5 gallons. I have mine draining into my laundry drain with the hose ran to a nearby shower to fill buckets up with.
Ah, it's actually a little more than $50.
https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-50-Gallon/dp/B00DOG63OY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480457897&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ro+buddie
This is a common one saltwater people like to buy. That's the cheapest one I know of that people recommend a lot. (I don't have this one.)
Keep in mind that you can drink RO water as well, and many people buy RO water systems not for fish but for drinking.
Don't use water conditioner. There is lots of other nasty stuff in your tap water other than chlorine. This is the ro unit I have. Get an auto shutoff and the di add-on.
http://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-50-Gallon/dp/B00DOG63OY
If you buy one off craigslist you will probably need a new ro membrane (they must be stored properly when not being used over a month) and pre filters which will run up the cost.
My replacement is something like $35 CAD on amazon. Since your tank is so small you'd be fine with a 50gpd unit. I keep a few 5 gallon water jugs filled for water change time, for your tank you'd probably only need one, and it would take ~2.5 hours to fill for your weekly water change on a 50gpd unit.
Something like this would be a great for cost-of-entry: https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-100-Gallon/dp/B00DOG63OY/
Membranes are inexpensive at 50gpd as well: https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-Membrane/dp/B00DOG656K
Yea, I ran into the same thing. Tons of different prices everywhere depending on what you want to get. I highly recommend this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOG63OY/ref=twister_B00DV4370M?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1. Great deal for the price and a lot of us over on the subreddit use it with great success. If you're looking for more help, you should come join us over on the Discord channel at https://discord.gg/kAdFSu5. There are tons of us over there and we're more than happy to help with anything we can.
Here's the cheapest RO unit I could find. Reviews all seem to be positive too.
I'm in the same situation, I got this one. It looks pretty close to yours but cheaper, if you want DI you have to buy that stage separately, i think it's around $30.
I've never had a problem with it leaking or anything, It also works really well. I don't have a TDS meter or anything, but I haven't had any algae blooms. I have to add about half a gallon a day to my 20 gallon to keep up with evaporation, so i'm sure I would have noticed by now if it wasn't doing its job.
The only things I don't like about it is that half the manual is printed on the box instead of in the actual manual. And that you need to buy some 1/4" tubing. Not a big deal, but eh, why couldn't they throw it in?
Thanks, I think I will buy a ro unit. Is this one ok?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DOG63OY/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1421600615&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41CF6VoMfQL&amp;ref=plSrch
As for a protein skimmer, what do you think is the best company?
The heat pad should be under the tank on the bottom to give some belly heat. Leopard geckos digest their food using belly heat so it would really help him out. The heat pad should cover about 1/3 of the bottom of the cage as well. Make sure to have a thermostat with the heat mat as well so it doesn't over heat your gecko! The one I use is this one and it's been working fantastic with no issues. I have the probe located in the spot where the gecko would lay down and when the temperature reaches the degree I've set it to, it'll shut off the mat allowing it to cool down and then it'll heat back up.
This is the thermostat I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TbOBDbQPSF1RG
I saw it recommended on a thread here, so hopefully it’s okay! If need be I’ll go up to something fancier, but most people seem to use something along those lines?
Purchase a thermostat to regulate the temperature of the heat mat. I prefer this style but there are lots of different ones out there. In fact I recommend getting one anyway as they are an important safety feature to prevent temperature spikes.
All you need is the slow cooker and a temperature control unit like this one or if your mechanically inclined the ITC-1000, and plug in the controller then plug the slowcooker into the controller then set the controller to desired temp and walk away.
But remember, you don't want the auto slowcooker. You want one like this with just a 3 way dial.
I set my slowcooker to low and the ITC-1000 to 112° for 5 hours, remove the yogurt and stick in the fridge.
You’ll have to figure that out once it’s set up. It would work well on the hot side but if the cool side is too cold with nothing over there I would center it. That’s the thing I need to tweak but haven’t yet since I’m going to have to remake my custom lid. Lamp currently on the hot side but my cold side is like 5 degrees too cold. Not a huge deal but something I’ll need to get around to. Like I said trial and error id just buy all your heating elements and then spend a day messing around with temp and placement. Also this is a good cheap controller for the heat mat if you don’t have one yet.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_r3e2CbAWWY9ZY
Just make sure the temp probe goes between the mat and glass
Century Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing, 40-108°F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qPpvCb49PSBWM
This is the thermostat we use to control the heat, we have it connected to a regular ceramic heat lamp
If it's that insanely cold inside I would use a 100w CHE in conjunction with 11 inch heat tape spanning the length of the bottom of the tank, possibly two strips side by side, controlled by a reptile thermostat with a temperature probe taped down in the tank directly over the heat tape on the bottom. That way you have a safe sustained temperature throughout the tank and the CHE can be used by your bearded dragon to effectively thermoregulate himself without needing to worry about cold spots.
&#x200B;
Heat Tape
Heat Tape Power Cord
Thermostat for the Heat Tape
We use this one for the heat pad, you set it at the temp you want and it turns the heating pad on and off depending on if it gets too cool or too hot.
And then we use this one just to monitor visually the temp and humidity of the environment. So far we’ve had no issues and they’re both fairly inexpensive.
Good luck with everything!
If your in the US i recommend buying this https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108%C3%82%C2%B0F/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=jumpstart+thermostat+reptile&amp;qid=1570753836&amp;sprefix=jumpstart+&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExMktDVDVZRk9GUDcmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA5ODc4MjcyUlpSWDNFTzQyUFFCJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA3MjMyOTIyMkdLQlpNSllCTEZRJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= and plugging in the under tank heater and setting it to 90-91 so you wont have to worry about the heat. Still always check that the high temp is around the number uou set it to but i notice that sometimes it can slowly get lower than what you set it to but then right back where it needs to be.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_edhYDb7408N40
This is what I use
Will one of these work as a thermostat for a CHE? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xqFXDb0BTJFVP if I put the probe somewhere near the top?
I use this with the standard zoo med or exoterra UTHs on three leopard gecko tanks and two snake tanks and have had good temperature accuracy with it
So I use a ceramic bulb (because I didn't wan't light to mess with the day/night cycle). and I have this automatic thermostat controller which I have set to keep it around 74 in her enclosure. This set up seems to be working well.
Because night time is probably when it's getting cold in your house you'll need a ceramic bulb or another heat bulb meant for nighttime. So the UVB bulb probably isn't worth messing with.
I just installed these inside my printer. So far, so good. I can keep the FEP and buildplate at a steady 75 degrees in a 45 degree garage.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I15S6OM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07573FKSG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I did have to FDM print an adapter to make it all fit. That's in a Mars. Not sure how it would fit in a Photon.
This light says 18 Watts.
What do you think the recommended wattage would be just in case I can find any for cheaper?
I don't know that much about Red Lotus in particular but bulb plants I grow outside have all they need to grow stored in the bulb itself, they can grow into a full sized plant in a cup of water without any soil. Your Red lotus may be using the nutrients in it's bulb to grow well even without bright lights. I would go for this Nicrew it's $40. It will give you light you need to to try more varieties
of plants and see them really thrive. If you want to save more money try a 30" LED shop light from Home Depot, don't worry that it's not made for growing plants, in my experience overall brightness(intensity) is much more important than wavelength(color temperture)
NICREW ClassicLED Aquarium Light,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ID3OK3S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share that’s the link for the light. The tank I got from petco
NICREW ClassicLED Aquarium Light, Fish Tank Light with Extendable Brackets, White and Blue LEDs, Size 28 to 36 Inch, 18 Watts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ID3OK3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d3xCCbERR8HW2
5 Peppered Cory
1 Angelfish
1 Gourami
6 Cardinal Tetra
1 Male Blue Ram
No issues with the fish in terms of aggression so far!
No idea what the plants are, just started dosing excel today.
This is the light I have, will it be OK for the plants or should I get something different?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ID3OK3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aQMQybDVK40K7
Thanks for all advice in advance :)
Nicrew LED Hood Light for Aquarium Fish Tank, Adjustable from 28" - 36" Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ID3OK3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_qnivbbLXikco4
It's got bad reviews from people in this sub before but... you can see the results.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ID3OK3S/ref=twister_B0772N6YMJ?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Tank is a custom 34gal tall. Looking to upgrade the old single 24in t12 bulb to led. As the t12 is simply not cutting it for my plants.
Trying to decide between a set of high CRI led floodlights, and a 18w Nicrew led bar.
The floodlights are similar to these, but cost $15 from my local electrical supply house. Using high cri philips LED. 5500K color.
Lookalike floods: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01LXRTJZ3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UK-TAbYC1JEJA
Nicrew: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01ID3OK3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SM-TAbXJHQ2Z5
As it stands, I'm looking to go with an mbuna tank (considering overcrowding maybe in the future to reduce aggression as some recommended) & no plants.
Lights: I was looking for a light that's just for a fish aquarium, not for plants since algae growth and all. The ones you suggested should still be fine? Plus, I came across this on amazon before I read your post, what do you think about this?
Filter: Would (2) AquaClear 50's be enough for a 50 gal. overstocked tank, since you mentioned 8-10x tank volume?
Also, your answer was very helpful to me as I'm looking to get started with my new tank, thank you so much!
Edit: Might be a silly question, but I was wondering, would it be risky to put 1 or 2 haps/peacock in my mbuna tank (considering going with a 50 gal.)
I am using this for my light. Struggling to find a hood as well for it though
NICREW ClassicLED Aquarium Light,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ID3OK3S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Old light from my 29 gallon, works perfectly fine, but decided to go with a more high tech lighting setup.
Local pickup only!
Here's the amazon listing for more specs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ID3OK3S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My lights. i dose 5ml for my 20g.
TheyMy plants don't show any deficiencies save for my red flame sword, they aren't as red as they should be.I think my light is good enough. I'm using a Nicrew ClassicLED at 50% for 8 hours (4 hours with a siesta in between). Nothing fancy, but works well, I think. But I really love the planted aspect of my tank and want to step up to the next level besides just doing root tabs and liquid ferts.
I just bought a 29g as well and had to upgrade my light. This is the exact one I bought and love it, it’s the same as my old one but bigger.
NICREW
Nicrew LED from Amazon
Aquarium light
Aquarium heater
Aquarium filter
Aquarium lid
Water Conditioner
Water test kit
And then you can get the aquarium (10g) at Petco
I strongly recommend live plants: Java ferns, anubius, Marimo Moss Balls, bacopa, cryptocoryne, Valisnaria, hygrophila, easy low light plants. Malaysian, Spider (not sharp), Mopani, and manzanita are all good types of drift wood for a betta aquariums
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ID3OK3S/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_in_o0_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
That makes sense. I had a light that wasn't powerful enough and my plants had a hard time surviving. The algae problem started a little while after I got a new light.
I have it on a timer from 7am to 9pm. I didn't think to shorten the time the light is on, now that it's more powerful. Is there a recommended time the light should be on?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ID3OK3S/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I use this light on my 20 long. Good luck so far.
Any low-light plant (java fern, anubias, etc.) will be fine. Check online to see which plants need to be planted in substrate and which ones will grow on other surfaces. I have both nana petite anubias & java fern in my tank - neither grows in substrate, so they're easy! My light stays on about 5 hours a day.
Thank you! Are there any other plants just like that? I also bought this light do you have any clue how much I'd have to manage the light to make sure Algae doesn't grow?
I bought mine here.
https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Carriage-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519150264&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=maker+select+2.1
An upgraded carriage plate is a must-have. It will help you achieve and maintain better bed leveling.
A 50mm blower fan with a printable shroud (e.g. the DiiiCooler) will make a big difference in print quality.
Beyond that, most things are luxuries or need-specific. For example, I love my Microswiss all metal hot end but you may not have any need for it.
Printed on a Maker Select V2 with the following mods:
&nbsp;
Micro Swiss all metal hotend
&nbsp;
Ciii cooler with radial fan
&nbsp;
Z-braces
&nbsp;
Upgrades Y carriage
&nbsp;
Printer settings:
&nbsp;
BamTack PLA
&nbsp;
Hotend at 215
&nbsp;
Bed at 60
&nbsp;
.2 mm layer height for body and tail
&nbsp;
.08 mm layer height for head
&nbsp;
100% infill
&nbsp;
Printed at 20 mm/s
Buy
($6)Wires:For the MOFSET mod
($1o)MOFSET
($6)Wire spades:For the MOFSET mod
($8)Assorted M3 Bolts:You need some for a few mods and for the bolts you will inevitably strip on this
cheapwonderful machine($13)Longer assorted M3 Bolts:For a few mods
($9)M4 Bolts:For one of the mods
($9)Metric allen wrench set:Had to order one of these since metric tools aren’t common round these parts
(~$20) PLA of preferred choice- You’ll run out of the sample bit quick so go ahead and order a roll or two to be prepared. You will note some upgrades require ABS so a small spool of that to your order will also help.
($6)M3 Lock nuts:Critically needed for a simple mod
($10)Threaded rod and nuts:Please note that this item seemed difficult to find online. I recommend going to your local hardware store and getting two 5/16” rods of at least 16” in length. They should have an assortment of threaded rod in various lengths available. Also note that the pitch of the threading matches the nuts you buy. Further instructions regarding this can be seen in Azza’s Z-Axis braces below.)
($6)9mm Wrench for the nozzle: Don’t wait for your first clog, go ahead and have this on hand to remove/change the nozzle. Note to only tighten/loosen the nozzle when heated.
Below is the order of printable upgrades I recommend but I suggest you mix in a few other prints along the way because this is a hobby after all and you should be having fun. It helps to have your quality as tuned in as much as possible for some of these so be patient and keep trying if you need to.
Print
Spool holder- temporary : Until you can mount your spool on top of the enclosure or any other personal preference.
Belt tensioner- print x2
Z-brace
Shielded stop button
Cable relocator : It’s a pain, but if you spend the time to do this and turn your extruder motor 90 degrees then you can get the full Z height without ruining your cables. It does involve opening all the cables to the PSU and feeding a few extra inches back through the cable chains.
Cable shroud : Looks nice if you do the cable relocator.
The following need to be printed in ABS:
M3 Bed Nut retainer: 10/10 upgrade. I know they look worse than the nice metal stock ones, but these help keep your bed level longer.
CiiCooler
Glass bed Holder
Now that the first major round of printed upgrades is done it’s time to shift to a few more supplies to pick up to really fine tune the machine.
Buy
($5)Radial fan: For CiiCooler
($5)Glue sticksThis and a glass bed is magic
($25)Borosilicate glass 8” x 8”
($26)Y-Carriage plate upgrade: This has been a nice upgrade as I now only need to relevel the bed every couple weeks instead of every print. Check out this guide for a ‘how to’ as well as a free upgrade by shifting your Y pulley over.
($15)rechargeable dehumidifier: For keeping in the bin with your opened filaments
($9)Extruder gears: Might be able to hold off on these, but will need eventually. If for some reason you have a Maker Select with metal X-axis blocks (V1 and V2, but not V2.1) then this is a must. You can follow this guide for a how to.
($28)Metal extruder plate and lever: Not needed, but nice.
($14)Noctua 40mm fan: Not needed, but makes the printer a lot quitter. A LOT quieter.
($50)MicroSwiss All Metal Hot End: The destruction of my PTFE tube by this point pushed me to doing this upgrade. If needed you can follow this guide for replacement. Remember to tighten/loosen when the nozzle its hot.
($6)Ceramic cotton: Tore off the stock one when replacing for the all metal hot end by accident. At least its thicker than stock
Now that the printer is in its final form, its time for the enclosure which is a stacked Ikea Lack hack.
Print
Spool holder
Pi Case
120mm fan cover
Fan grill
120mm fan PSU modification: I edited this to fit upside down since my PSU is mounted on the underside. This was nice since I blew the 40mm fan anyways so it made everything a lot quieter than before.
IKEA Lack filament guide
Webcam holder: This is one I designed specifically for the webcam I happen to have lying around. The camera mount piece can be changed out no problem though for what ever webcam you have or buy. The SketchUp file is included on Thingiverse for such purpose.
Buy
($20)2x Ikea Lack: Luckily there is one right down the street from me. I am located in North America though, so we do not have the STUVA, if you live literally anywhere else you may check in to this as an alternative.
($80)Plexi glass for enclosure: Could be cheaper alternatives, but it looks cool
($9)Foam pads for feet
($42)Raspberry Pi3: For OctoPrint. I also suggest using a different USB cable than the stock one provided by Monoprice or you will have issues.
($9)2x 120mm fans: Used for the power supply cooling and enclosure
($6)Rocker Switches so that the enclosure fan can be on for PLA, but off for ABS
($15)Dimmable LED lights
($10)8mm LED light connectors
Total:
$250 printer + $452 upgrades/parts + ~$80 PLA/ABS to date
My roommate and I got a Select v 2.1 a few weeks ago (most that ship out from any retailers are 2.1s now, you can tell because the bed leveling screws are thumbscrews instead of wingnuts).
Just to get it out of the way early, just print a filament guide. Enough said about that.
You're absolutely right about the z-brace, worlds of difference. We also did the z-extension, not quite as important but it gives you the full print height potential. The fan upgrade doesn't do much for PLA from what we've tested but it helps on overhangs for ABS and the type.
I've noticed ringing pretty recently, which is from the springs used for belt tensioning. You can print belt tensioners that use screws instead to help alleviate that.
Bed warping is an annoying issue as well, that'll have you leveling your print bed at least twice a week. We got a y-carriage and got a piece of glass cut 8" x 8.5" x 1/8" for a print surface, which you can just secure down with scotchblue tape. Glue stick on the glass helps with print adhesion.
And just some tips for the road: Do not underestimate the amount of bolts/nuts/screws you'll need. It'll take at least a week and a half to get all the mods you want done, and it will never feel like you're finished. Finding a cabinet or some kind of enclosure is nice if you need it in the same room as you do your daily stuff/sleep in (like if you're in a dorm). Print settings like temperature and speed do more for print quality than any mods you can find. You will fail most of your early prints while trying to find the right settings. The bearings used are kinda crap and they make a cringey crunching noise, but I'm convinced it isn't affecting the prints much, if at all.
Any other questions, feel free to ask. We don't have the most experience with it yet but we've gotten a feel for the ins and outs. Welcome to the club!
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
Basic model, very little flow that mostly goes up.
Double spongy action, with an outlet that can be placed above the waterlevel (even less flow!).
Corner filter, has more room for other types of filtermedia, a bit harder to clean depending on what you stuff it with. Has a cute little outlet that prevents our idiots from getting stuck.
I really like this one, it's quiet and comes with a valve
tubing
valve
---
^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly&nbsp;bot
So don't let them do that.
Cat scratches door - open door immediately and quickly and spash it with water from the sink. Alternatively, get a scat mat.
Dog barks/scratches - Tell them "No bark" or whatever you use to get them to not bark.
These two times are great for customizing your bunny’s area:
Guinea Habitat Guinea Pig Cage by MidWest, 47L x 24W x 14H Inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NJ0DPY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CYV1CbVAHCM28
SONGMICS Pet Playpen Includes Cable Ties, Metal Wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BLYMG6C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UZV1CbVTEE0R8
I believe they make things to cancel out noises for dogs,
https://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA
It might be an option, there's probably something cheaper or you can make something similar yourself.
> I got it in November 2017, I've only had to level it about a dozen time or so.
Is that supposed to be impressive? A quality machine NEVER needs leveling, unless it falls off a table or something. Not to mention 4 screw leveling is fundamentally retarded from a mechanical design POV.
> I haven't had any misaligned rod issues nor any problems with the Z screws being out of sync.
Trying putting it in a shared makerspace where an absentminded noob will twirl one of the Z screws, not realizing the clusterfuck they're creating and nobody notices for a week.
> The carriage is flat enough for all intents and purposes
LOL then why does amazon have half a dozen replacement parts like this.
Look it's an amazing machine for $250, but you're delusional if you think it's not garbage tier mechanics and electronics.
I don't have an issue with a $45 pet gate. The pet gate in particular, if you read the post, is only an issue because my family members who have grown up on a farm and taken care of dozens of animals think I would be babying the cat by placing these protective measures. Since I am living in their house at the moment, it would be a little difficult to override, but not impossible. The first thing I am going to do upon getting the cat is indeed to bring it to the vet.
To give an example of what an appropriate expense is (to me), I've already bought this water bowl for her. It's $42, but I would be willing to do this to prevent her from getting UTIs or anything else associated from dehydration. No one would comment on it, because it's unobtrusive. The gate on the other hand, cordoning off places that people actually walk through, is going to bring me a lot of trouble. As I've already stated, it's trouble I'm willing to deal with. They are not unreasonable people, but there is a cultural difference.
All I am asking is what the best option in this type of situation seems to be, since most of the advice I've researched on the internet seems to be directed at adult or baby kittens; not 6 month old cats. (Somewhat in between?)
If she got sick, there would be no expenses spared. I am well within my means to support a cat.
Which other part of the story sounds like an unideal environment? Why do you feel that I am rushing it? I am genuinely concerned; please do not take these questions as a defensive retort.
Do you feel that based on what you read, I should not be adopting a cat at all?
The purpose of the original topic was to ask whether or not I should seclude the cat: if anything an answer to this question in particular would be deeply appreciated.
ALSO it just occurred to me, would a pet gate even keep in a six month old cat?
Keep the cat in your own room.
Failing that, people are allergic to cat dander which originates from their saliva, not their fur/hair. There are specially made anti-allergy shampoo's for cats that specifically help with getting rid of said dander. The cat will not like this, but it does seem to help. Remember to wash the cat with luke warm water to the touch, anything else is probably too hot/cold. I would also purchase several HEPA filters and put them in various rooms. Comb the cat with this several times a week (trust me, other combs are not the same and not worth your time). I also picked up a Dyson animal vacuum for good measure but that may be overkill. Good luck!
Make life simple get this... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005IZOB5M/ref=asc_df_B005IZOB5M5072284/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;creative=394997&amp;creativeASIN=B005IZOB5M&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=167116240456&amp;hvpos=1o2&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=2728500186311727428&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9027617&amp;hvtargid=pla-305618836250
EcoSphere Closed Aquatic Ecosystem, Small Sphere https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005IZOB5M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AlPrzbRVAEX3A
Seems that they are $60 for a small but there is cheaper options
There’s a teacher who keeps a beta fish in her classroom on the desk.
You can’t go wrong with gold fish. They are probably the easiest fish to care for.
If you’re looking for zero maintenance might I suggest an eco sphere. There are several on amazon. They don’t require feeding or anything but sunshine. Fluorescent offices lights will be fine. I’ve had one for almost 3 years, I like it.
EcoSphere Small Sphere https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005IZOB5M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Njb6CbVNJWZZN
I hear bettas are a good fish for fish bowl, dosent even have to be a fish bowl get one of those small aquarium at wal-mart or so like these, these still give the ecosystem as a big fish tank compressed 10x small and tidy.