(Part 3) Best hand tools according to redditors

Knife nut here. Allow me to expound.

Serrated vs Straight - Serrations are good for cutting tough soft things. Thick rope and such. Not much else.

Locking Blade with Pocket Clip - Gerber is awful. Avoid at all costs. Seriously. The construction is sub par and the materials are worse.

Kershaw is a good budget recommendation. Of the Kershaws, I would recommend the entire Ken Onion design lineup (the Leek, the Shallot, and the Chive are the three I would purchase myself. In fact, I own all three)

For the more expensive (and, frankly, gorgeous) options, I cannot recommend Benchmade enough. So many classy blades. In fact, Bechmade gets its own category.

Benchmade - Model 586: Aluminium + black G10 handles, AXIS lock, classy as fuck.

Bali-songs: Models 32, 51, 62, 63, and 67. Interesting little (and big) blades. Very fun, extremely beautiful, and a real crowd pleaser.

And that's all I'm going to type for now (at work). If you are interested, check out Benchmade, Knifecenter, and such. Feel free to head over to /r/knives /r/knifeclub for more information, or just ask me, here in comments or with a PM, if you have any questions.

Oh, and do be careful with those balis. They are partially toys, but very very sharp toys.

EDIT: I will add more when I get home late tonight if I remember to.

I only use the EZ-RJ45 ends now. Never going back to ones you can't push the wires all the way through.

I also use the special crimper designed to automatically cut excess cable off.

Hello all, in a previous post made yesterday, I had replied with a picture of a drawer of my Alex 9 unit and received a few of inquiries about how I made my drawer organizers. So, I decided to try my best to tell you how I did it. I apologize I wasn't able to make a complete step by step with a ton of photos, but this process was done over a year ago, and I wasn't really planning on doing it again since I finished!


Materials Needed:

Ruler

X-acto Knife

-I would recommend some extra blades as well-

--Foam Board (the more the merrier)--

Flathead Pins

--Contact Paper--


-The blades become dull fairly quickly, I think I used about four during the process-

--I was able to get a piece for $.99 at Michael’s on sale

---I decided to wrap each piece with contact paper because it makes it very easy to clean. In my actual vanity, I used fabric and it has gotten dirty and damaged and I 100% don't recommend it--


Template Materials:

Copy Paper or Grid Paper

Ruler

Actual makeup products


Steps:

1. I first made templates for each drawer. I found using grid paper to design the setup made it very easy, each block was marked as an inch. Using the actual product dimensions I was easily able to map out what could possibly go in each location. It’s nice to know that the height of a standard sheet of copy paper is the width of the drawers! Also, to note, I made sure to give a little space on each side of the product to give it some wiggle room. (The dimension of each drawer is 11.5"x20.5")
   
   
2. I then used normal copy paper to make a full-size map of each drawer. Then using that I transferred it onto the foam board. Measure twice and cut once.
   
   
3. Using a straight edge, I was able to make cuts of each segment. It's easiest to first cut the width of the product and then afterwards cut the height of each compartment making sure they all have a uniform width and height.
   
   
4. After each piece has been cut, I went ahead and wrapped every piece with white contact paper. Contact paper has a sticky back that easily allows it to adhere. Also, the back has its own grid so it was easy!
   
   
5. Once each piece was ready to go ahead and assemble, I made a new template. This one was to make a uniform depth of each compartment (my smaller compacts all had about 3/4 of an inch between each and larger had about 1 inch) A B. This also made it very easy to ensure I had a perfect right angle.
   
   
6. I decided to use flathead pins to connect everything together. I've seen previous YouTube tutorials that used hot glue, but that can be messy and difficult to work with. Also, if you ever need to redo something, you don't destroy what you had done. I used two pins on each side which really anchors the part. I will note, the tips of my index fingers went numb from doing this so much, but the feeling came back…eventually
   
   
7. Enjoy!
   
   
   Some other things to note:
   
   In my palette drawer, I created L shaped panels to allow for the palette to be better seen
   
   I also purchased from byAlegory a liquid lipstick and lipstick organizers to build around
   
   In my lipstick drawer, I purchased little glass beads to allow for the products to stand up better
   
   My paper towel drawer has a holder which I created using a wooden dowel and clay
   
   Also, I grabbed plastic liquid dispensers to easily get to my various liquids
   
   Managed to slice my finger open making little lids of acrylic to hold all my disposable paper products
   
   *Most of my other acrylic pieces have been purchased from MUJI
   
   
   I hope you enjoyed my ~teal battlestation~, if you have any other questions about it feel free to ask. And I'm sorry if it was unclear at all. And, I'm 100% aware I have a stupid amount of makeup that I've gotten over the years as a makeup artist, Sephora employee, and a true Make Up Addict.

I want to throw my hat in for the Lamy Safari - hear me out. Cost, flexibility and customization is the name of the game.

First, it's cheaply available. You can grab one from Amazon for $20, and each new nib is about $13. Converters are $4.50. Plus, there are so damn many floating around, replacement parts are never far away. So if you snap the body in a car door (too personal?) you can buy a new body cheaply and have all your nibs still work.

Second, the flexibility (not the nibs, obviously, they're stiffer than a preacher's peter). Each new nib makes it a whole new pen. The fine nib is great for notes, the broad nib gives you nice shading for those particular inks. Each of the different calligraphy nibs offers a completely different writing experience as well. The nibs are really easy to change on and off, as well as being portable and pretty durable. They're well made and write smoothly for the most part, though they do leave a little to be desired. But, you can fix that! So, onto....

Third, customization. I just started grinding my own Lamy nibs just to muck about. I mean hey, did you get into fountain pens because you just want something that JUST writes when you pick it up? Bic figured that out already; they really work great but that's not why we're all here. We're here for greater understanding and appreciation of craftsmanship. There's nothing mystical about these nibs, and as cheap as they are you can afford to experiment. It could be as simple as just making a sharper edge on a calligraphy nib to make better italics (my most recent project) - you have no idea how much better your normal, crappy old handwriting will look when you slap a 1.1mm calligraphy nib on your pen - it's like bringing out your inner Tolkien that you never knew was there! Or you could just slim down a fine nib to take super tiny notes on a notecard before a physics exam (my first project). The point is, it puts you in the driver's seat and it really doesn't take long. Sit down for half an hour, work carefully, stand up with a new pen.

Protip: throw nibs in a contact lens case, take them everywhere.

Check out this page on grinding for some basics on making your own experimental nibs (http://www.marcuslink.com/pens/aboutpens/ludwig-tan.html), then check out this inexpensive knife stone, which will work great for both rough shaping and medium polishing (http://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Combination-Knife-Sharpening-Stone/dp/B0000Y7LAS/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1420394243&sr=8-10&keywords=1000+grit+combination+stone). For final smoothing, I'm pretty sure the standard Goulet micro-mesh paper will be great, though I haven't gotten around to buying one myself (http://www.gouletpens.com/GPC-Micro-Mesh/p/GPC-Micro-Mesh).

I've been playing around like this for a while now. What I've gotten is a greater appreciation for well made, expensive retail pens. I've also gotten better at spotting crap. Once you've played around with your own pen, you'll know what you're looking at when you go to buy vintage pens in the future. You'll understand the basics, and then can make an informed decision. The best bang for your buck will be not making a bad purchase in the first place. Start cheap, work up.

Now that I've wasted everyone's time and all my wind, I do have to say the Metropolitan is a fiiiiiine pen, quite sturdy and writes like a champ every time. So there's that.

TL;DR I think customizing cheap nibs is a great way to start, but the Metropolitan is sturdy and writes as well/better than many pens three times its cost. The TWSBI has interchangeable nibs as well, is more upscale and you can tell the difference. The Vanishing Point is great, I have two, but the ink tends to dry out more quickly then in my other pens, and the new nibs definitely have a premium attached - they were $25 when I was in college, now they're $65 and the pen itself hasn't changed price. That ticks me off.

Edit Crappy spelling and a couple other thoughts that bubbled to the surface.

• Light: Streamlight Nano
  
  
• Lighter: Maratac Split Pea Peanut
  
  
• Multitool/Knife: Victorinox Classic Alox
  
  
• Pen: True Utility TelePen
  
  
• Whistle: True Utility Micro Whistle
  
  Some other things you may find interesting:
  
  IN1 Multitool phone case
  
  KeyDisk
  
  Fisher Bullet Pen
  
  Killzone 348
  
  Gerber Dime
  
  Rike Hummingbird
  
  

These are the things I bought. You could get by without some of the wire cutting tools. The crimper is kinda necessary, and I'd definitely buy the molex hand tool for pushing the wire into the SATA connector. Much easier than using a screwdriver.

16 AWG Guage Wire

Wire Stripper (you can get by without this)

Flush Cutter (probably not necessary but nice to have)

Crimping Tool

SATA Power Connector

SATA Passthrough Cap

SATA Terminal/End-of-Line Cap

Molex Hand Tool <-- buy the real thing, mimics on Amazon aren't as good

ATX Header Pins (these are 18 AWG which are a little small for 16 AWG gauge wire)

ATX Header Housing

Clockwise from top left:

OLPR Leather Minimalist Wallet

Nite Ize Steel Key Rack with Molle velcro strap and key ring

Attached to it are my 64GB Toshiba Flash Drive, Gerber Shard and keys.

Zebra Mini T-3 that I clip in the spine of my wallet

Fisher Space Pen Bullet

Generic lighter

Field Notes but in the dot-graph version

Military issue Victorinox Bantam, couldn't find black online

Nicron B10 Rechargeable Flashlight

Gerber Dime

First ever pocket knife, the Tac-Force Spring Assisted Knife

iPhone 8 Plus

This can be accomplished with nothing more than the following (no affiliate links):

• Japanese style saw ~$30
  
• El-cheapo Kanna Block Plane ~$14
  
• A few chisels, honed razor sharp ~$30-60 (I bought the Irwin Marples set with the bevel guide... VITAL in helping you establish a razor edge!)
  
• Sandpaper
  
• Finish. I used Watco Natural Danish Oil ~$9
  
• Not absolutely necessary, but helpful: Drill/Drill bits
  
  And the wood.. well, while purchasing some $2/board foot maple from a local miller (found on craigslist), I simply asked if he had some walnut scraps for wedges/inlays, he threw a bunch in (probably 10 board feet worth).

Ideas:
-Focus most of our energy on the subways and put the flyers behind the glass. This is the best place for waiting people to learn about Bernie.
-Place Bernie stickers on polls, garbage cans, etc
-Chalk about Bernie on the ground!
-I am creating a Bernie "bat signal" to shine from my balcony to the windowless face of a nearby brick building using this: http://www.amazon.com/WASING-Lumens-Rechargeable-Searchlight-lighting/dp/B00V5OI3KO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 AND a cardboard cut out of this: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0886/0470/products/bernie2016-magnet_1024x1024.jpg?v=1441046067 WITH THE DATE OF THE PRIMARY ADDED, cut with this: http://www.amazon.com/ELMERS-X-Acto-Knife-Silver-X3602/dp/B000V1QV7O?ie=UTF8&keywords=exacto%20knife&qid=1459182606&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2

the flashlight reaches really far and it works!

I have one of those xacto knife pens, I use it to carve designs into things and what not. But my secret purpose is to perform an emergency Tracheotomy if the time ever arrises. Hasn't happened yet.

Link

No. Learning to sharpen is tricky enough and these just complicate things by forcing you to maintain a relative angle between the knife and abrasive while both are moving.

I recently went through the exercise of teaching one of my friends how to sharpen his knives and he tried to skimp on getting a stone(net savings: $6). The stone he got was too soft and didnt cut well at all but at least it was a bench stone; meaning it was a stone you set on your counter top.

I strongly recommend getting a dual grit king waterstone.
This is a good example of a good starter stone:
https://www.amazon.com/KING-1000-Grit-Combination-Waterstone/dp/B0000Y7LAS/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1498550018&sr=8-7&keywords=king+stone

Eventually you will want another one that is higher grit to get a better polish and to flatten your other stone, but for now this will meet your needs for learning.

For anyone who's interested in that credit card knife, don't get it, it's flimsy as hell and cheaply made; but you could probably tell that since it's $2. I'd recommend this one instead: http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Logic-CC1SB-Companion-Serrated/dp/B0001WOKWQ

Every job I've had has been blue collar, or at least a mix of field and office work. Currently, I'm a woodworker, so I'm sure you can imagine how often things like splinters are a thing. I first started carrying the emergency knife when I worked at a climbing wall. It was there to cut a harness or potentially even a rope in the event of extreme emergency, but it was/is also good to have in case of a car accident or something (window breaker and seat belt cutter). I'm thankful that I've never had to use it. And that's what a lot of my gear is for. Things I want to have ready to use, while hoping I never do.

Emergency knife This isn't the one I actually have, but it's similar enough. You can find this same design in a multitude of places, at all different price points.

Normal use I also have a cheap little $6 Ozark Trail one that I've used for around 12 years or so. Long as you care for your knife, it will last and serve you well. You don't have to have a top-of-the-line one. I do greatly prefer the single-hand operation ones, though. They have the little pin near the base of the blade so that you can just slide it open with your thumb. And I usually prefer the liner lock, which allows you to unlock the blade with your thumb, and close it with your forefinger. With enough regular use, it all becomes one swift motion that you don't even think about

Swiss army knife I was gifted mine and likely wouldn't have bought it on my own, but I found myself very appreciative of it and think it's worth the money. If mine gets lost, broken, or whatever, I'll likely buy a replacement.

Bonus! Gerber multitool This has been on my key ring for 6 years. I use it almost daily, and think it is probably one of the best EDC purchases I have ever made.

It's possible to use a full yoke and throttle setup in VR as well. So you may want to look into this, it really is a completely surreal experience and very enjoyable.
The only downside that you may have is that as far as I'm aware, the Vive (or Oculus) can't render any setups that you may use.. yet. So you're pretty much flying "blind" in terms of the controls.

> Thinking of using TVs, would this be plausible?

Yes but not recommended. The drawbacks are the size, often not very thin bezels, weight & the overall panel quality & resolution is not high enough for when you're sitting that close to your flight sim.
TVs are mostly designed to be around ~10 feet away from you at least, which means that the pixels can be pretty large. A Full HD (1080p) TV at 50" doesn't look that bad when you're far enough away from it. The pixels are pretty huge tho, compared to a normal PC monitor that generally is around 21-24" for 1080p.

TVs also generally don't have other display ports than HDMI, which means you have to buy adapters. Not a big issue, but not that great.

---

• I'll provide my standard list of videos to help you understand why I suggest these products.
  
• I also give a couple of great guides to help you build the PC.
  
  ---
  
  Now a few key points!
  
  
• You''ll need a PC or laptop that got a USB type A with preferably Windows on it. This is needed to make your USB stick ready to install Windows on the new PC that you'll build.
  
• When you want to connect 6 displays to a GPU. You can actually do this with AMD, but you'll have to buy an DisplayPort splitter box.
  
  PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
  
  Type|Item|Price
  :----|:----|:----
  CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $204.99 @ B&H
  Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H170-GAMING 3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $87.98 @ Newegg
  Memory | G.Skill NT Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $32.98 @ Newegg
  Storage | A-Data Premier SP550 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $39.99 @ Newegg
  Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.97 @ Amazon
  Video Card | MSI Radeon RX 480 8GB GAMING X Video Card | $279.99 @ B&H
  Case | DIYPC Silence-BK ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ Newegg
  Power Supply | EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $82.62 @ Amazon
  Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $85.70 @ My Choice Software
  Screwdriver| Stanley Magnetic Screwdriver kit| $6.44 @ Amazon
  Flash Stick| Kingston 16GB USB 3.0| $5.50 @ Amazon
  | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
  | Total | $936.15
  | Generated by Kiwiandapple |
  
  ---
  
  

  Learn about technology in only a couple minutes!
  

  
  ---
  
  

• What is overclocking?: Here - 2:32 minutes.
  
  
• What is the difference between i3, i5 & i7?: Here - 4:32 ← Important!
  
• What is hyperthreading?: Here - 4:47
  
• What is turbo boost?: Here - 4:05 ← Important!
  
• CPU shopping guide: Here - 5:01 ← Important!
  
• GPU shopping guide: Here - 4:11 ← Important!
  
• How many cores do I need for gaming?: Here - 8:18 ← Important!
  
• What is a motherboard?: Here - 4:46
  
• Which motherboard is the best to buy?: Here - 10:07
  
• What is PCI-Express?: Here - 3:22
  
• DDR3 vs DDR4 speeds: Here - 8:01
  
• What are benchmarks?: Here - 5:21
  
• Pre-built vs building your own?: Here - 6:04
  
• Optical vs laser mouse: Here - 2:10
  
• SSD vs HDD: Here - 4:05
  
• What SSD To Buy: Here - 6:37
  
• What is resolution?: Here - 5:22 ← Important!
  
• Different panel types: Here - 2:29 ← Important!
  
• What is Free-sync?: Here - 5:29
  
• Case air pressure: Here - 5:21
  
• Case fan orientation: Here - 3:42
  
• What PSU to buy?: Here - 5:12 ← Important!
  
• What does 80+ mean?: Here - 3:02
  
  Likely that TechQuickie got even more video's that you can have a look at to get answers. It's a great YouTube channel for easy, quickly explained questions about PC tech.
  
  
  ---
  
  

  Guides
  

  
  ---
  
  Now before you have a look at all these guides. The best guide in most cases will always be your MANUAL. Some manuals are garbage, but most of them are more than good enough to be able to help figure out most problems.
  
  

• How to build an Intel 115x socket PC?
  This is my personal favorite because it goes in depth, but still keeps the video relatively short.
  It also got great camera work so you are able to follow all the steps very well.
  I decided to skip the start of the video. The reason being that the video is posted on 17th of May 2013, he gives the rationale of his selected parts at the start. This is a very long time ago, so the parts are very old, so no need to hear this out. But building a PC is still pretty much the same. No drastic changes.
  There are a lot of different build guides on the internet, but I really like this one. It's easy to follow.
  
  
• How to install a 115x CPU?
  Very simple and easy to follow guide again.
  
• How to install a 2011(-3) CPU?
  Again not too complicated. But be aware, every motherboard is different. If unsure, check the manual!
  
• How to install Windows 8(.1) or 10 from an USB drive?
  You have to download "media creation tool" which is located at the bottom of the page (blue button). Run that program with a 4GB+ USB flash drive plugged into a PC. Then follow the simple steps and the program will make the USB drive bootable. After that all you have to do is build the PC and boot from that USB drive to install Windows.
  
• How to set up your SSD & HDD?
  This video is another older video, but it works pretty much the same in Win 8/10.
  
• How to use Ninite?
  This video explains it very well, as well as their recommendations. For security I advise to only get Avira (if you don't mind to get an add every day; if you do mind - just use Microsoft Defender) & Malwarebytes. If you want to pay for an anti-virus; Webroot! Light weight; very high detection rate.
  
  

  Hope you like it and If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
  

  
  

Stanley has a similar design, it's not too bad, but the tool OP used is not really a screw driver, 99% of the time.

You might need this

Yes! Use these all the time with great success. You'll need the crimpers to go with them as they cut off the extra wire.

Even better, post it to /r/knifeclub.

It looks like it might have come from one or both of them originally though. That's a Kershaw Cryo II, one of the most popular budget blades out there

Edit: Actually after looking closer, the longer clip suggests it's the original Cryo, not the Cryo II. They're very similar though.

The Klein 11-in-1 Screwdriver is an amazing companion. The torx bit is perfect for the screws in HP desktops and the phillips bits have good bite.

Otherwise, you pretty much have that I would carry myself. I would add what /u/bitbucket87 mentioned for sure.

I just picked up a Spyderco Tenacious and absolutely love it. $42 on Amazon.

Coincidentally I also carry an S2. It's a perfect combo for EDC. http://i.imgur.com/PBgjSgB.png

Ez crimps!

Platinum Tools 100054C Clamshell EZ-RJPRO HD Crimp Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_P7PCub1BEN0HC

I have a leatherman brewzer, its barely larger than a standard key and it lays flat on my keyring. Also, believe me, if you're going to actually open bottles with it, you want it to be a thick piece of metal so it pops the cap off instead of just bending it. I have a gerber shard as well and it tends to bend bottle caps off because it is too thin.

Here's another similar thing, with slightly better ergonomics than the brewzer since you can quick-release it. If you can get past the "moving part" anyway.

Glue: Super glue. Plastic glue only works on very specific types of plastic, and not what PP traditionally uses (though that may change with the new plastic kits, I hear the TEP works with plastic glue, but not sure). You don't need any special type of super glue, it's basically all the same aside from the viscosity. There's basically no difference in performance between one of the expensive hobby brands and a general purpose super glue.

Brushes: In general you get what you pay for, but I would skip the branded brushes from the hobby companies. Some are good, but it's a crap shoot. Invest in some good red sable brushes from a real artist brand like Raphael or Windsor & Newton, and some brush soap. I am partial to these.. If you take care of them they will last basically forever. Good natural fiber brushes are more resilient than synthetic (in my experience), and hold their shape longer. You'll want to pick up a few cheap brushes for drybrushing, though. That will ruin the bristles. Size 2 is what I use for most of my painting. Don't get trapped in using tiny brushes. The sables will hold a fine point, even on the bigger brushes, and you want the large brush because it holds more paint in the belly and gives you more work time before it dries on the bristles.

Files: Just get a cheap set of needle files like this. However, you won't need them for a lot of things. Most plastic models can be cleaned up just by scraping an xacto blade along the mold lines (holding the blade perpendicular to the line), and even some metal models can be cleaned this way unless they are poorly cast. The files are just for the larger models or for badly cast areas.

Primer: There are too many choices here to really cover that, just use a little google-fu and see what you like. I have used everything from cheap krylon to brush on. Army painter primers are good if you are painting a set scheme because the tinted primer can double as a basecoat, but they are a bit pricy. I also use gesso sometimesas it is very humid around here, and that takes some of the variability out of the issue of priming models in a swamp.

Misc: I don't use a clamp, generally. I tend paint the models on the base. To hold them steady I usually just stick a glob of blu tack on top of a nearby bottle or object and use the bottle as a handle. Most of the time it's a can of primer I use as my handle, the larger / weighted object helps to steady the model in my hand. Blu tack also does double duty as "painter's tape" for me sometimes if I want to keep some section of a model free of paint. It's also good for removing dust from a primed model if you're like me and prime a huge batch of minis, then forget about them for 6 months.

If you're pinning models to the bases, you can also just stick the pin into the chuck of your model drill and use that as a handle.

I carry an Opinel No 8 everywhere i go. i use it to cut food and light gardening work (trimming, pruning, cut twine to tie up tomatoes, etc). "everywhere" includes backpacking, and any kind of travel. it's short enough and no spring assist, so it doesn't conflict with local laws when i travel.

when i'm backpacking i also carry a small wire key ring with the following:

Key Ring

Leatherman Micra

Gerber Shard

Streamlight Nano

if i'm doing any kind of campfire, then i bring a mora companion to do any processing that i'll need.

For starters, what condition are the miniatures in? Are they packaged still? Assembled but not painted? Are they painted already? Depending on where they're at will determine what you need to do first, so let's assume the worst and go on to the better.

If a figure is already assembled, you'll want to disassemble it. The best way to get the glue off in my experience is to soak the figure over night in acetone. When you pull it out, the glue should be easy to get off. You can generally find acetone in large volumes at hardware stores in the paint section. You can store the acetone and figures in a glass jar or any plastic container that has the recycling logo on it with a number 5 in it and PP underneath it.

If a figure is already painted, you'll then need to get the paint off, without damaging the figures. The best way I've found to do this is with Purple Power, which you can generally find at automotive stores: http://www.clean-rite.com/purplepower_industrial_strength_cleaner_degreaser.html. You can use the same type of container for this as the one mentioned above. Let the figures soak for a day or so, and use a junk toothbrush to get any leftover paint off.

Now that you've got the figures cleaned, you need to prime them. You don't need anything special for this, as long as it's good for metal, however, I recommend a spray on primer. My personal preference is Krylon's general purpose primer, and I prefer gray as opposed to white. You can usually get this in the same place you get your acetone, or you can get it at a hobby shop. http://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Stencils-Craft-Paints/Spray-Paint/Gray-Krylon-Indoor/Outdoor-Spray-Primer/p/1357

The next step is to get the rest of your supplies:

Super Glue: Can't put minis together without glue! I just use a bottle of Gorilla Super Glue. http://www.gorillatough.com/gorilla-super-glue

Painting palette: My preference is to use a wet palette for painting but there's definitely a benefit for having a dry palette available as well. Here's a link to a video on making a wet palette and the benefits of it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FmxJdZdKdc. In here, they use one from a manufacturer, and it's nice because it's easily closed, but you can just as easily and super cheap with a plastic plate (dollar store), and using a paper towel instead of a sponge. Just cut the paper towel to size, soak it, have a little extra water in there and put the parchment paper down, then add more water. This is what I personally do, and just stick it in the fridge when I'm not using it. If you have an option to make one that you can put a cover on though, that'd be best. For a dry palette, you can just get something like a ceramic tile from the hardware store for like, a dollar or less, and it's super easy to clean.

Brushes: You probably don't want/need to spend a lot on brushes, especially starting out. I'd recommend a few cheap brushes, generally you want the brush sizes to probably be between 20/0 to 2, and also get a small flat brush, preferably with a cat's tongue tip, but it's not necessary, as long as it's flat. It'll be very useful for dry brushing. My recommendation would probably be to get a variety of brushes from Atlas Brush Company: http://www.atlasbrush.com/brush-sets. I'd recommend Style 255-3PS, Style 55, and Style 58A. When your brushes start getting hard to work with, you can usually stick the tips in boiling water for a bit to get them back to shape.

Paints, Washes and Varnish: A lot of people prefer either Vallejo paints or Citadel paints by Games Workshop. My preference, especially since I use a wet palette, is to use Vallejo, though I use some Games Workshop paint as well.

In addition to this, you'll probably want some washes. I don't actually have experience with Vallejo washes - I've only used Games Workshop, but I prefer the washes in the type of container that Citadel uses as opposed to droppers, since I apply them direct from the container. I'd recommend at least Nuln Oil from them if you go with Citadel Games, though I'm sure a black wash from Vallejo is perfectly fine.

Citadel also has Dry paints, which are supposed to be good for dry brushing, but I've not had any experience with them. They may be a good idea for you as a beginner, since you'll probably not have very good technique when you first try to dry brush (I found myself, and still do a lot of times, using too much paint). You can usually find these paints at hobby stores, but at the worst case, you can pick them up cheap on eBay. There are sellers on eBay that have pick-your-selection listings, just search Vallejo Pick and you'll have results.

You'll also want a varnish to seal your piece when you're done. I prefer to use two coats - the first one glossy, then the second one matte.

I recommend you get at least the following: White, Black, Red, Blue, Yellow, Green, Brown, Silver, Matt Varnish, Gloss Varnish, Black Wash

Flocking and Turf: Far from necessary, but if you want to make your bases have that grassy look to them, you'll need this. I use Coarse Turf - Yellow Grass, and then just soak it in the appropriate watered down paint, dry it out, and glue it on with Elmer's Glue. This stuff is generally available at hobby stores. http://www.sceneryexpress.com/YELLOW-GRASS-COARSE-TURF/productinfo/WD0061/

Antennas: A lot of BattleTech minis, especially older ones, should have antennas on them. If you have loose figures, the odds are they have been lost and you'll need to replace them. I've found staples work very well for this. If they're still in the package, you'll see a thin metal piece in there that looks like mechanical pencil lead; you'll just need to cut it to size for your mini. Additionally, these are pretty fragile once you glue them onto the mini unless you put a hole in the mini for it to go in. The best thing for this is to use a Pin Vise and drill bits http://www.amazon.com/CML-Supply-Micro-Drill-Chuck/dp/B001RJE3X8. However, I've gotten by just fine using a safety pin and thumb tack.

Files and razor blades: You may need some files and razor blades to get rid of flash (pieces of metal from the vent holes in the mold that may be attached to the figure still) and seam lines. http://www.amazon.com/ELMERS-X-Acto-Knife-Silver-X3602/dp/B000V1QV7O. Personally, I've gotten by with just the piece on my nail clippers that's there to clean and file your nails with.

Water dish: You'll need something to put your paint water in. I use 3 dishes: One for clean water, one for paint water, and one with water and dish soap in it.

Mini stand: You'll generally want to have something to put your mini on while you work with it. If you don't, you'll end up rubbing the paint and primer off of it while you hold it to turn it while you paint. This can be just about anything. My preference is to use something about the diameter of a hex that's a couple inches tall and use Velcro.

Now, you need to figure out what the hell you're doing with all this stuff. I'm far from an expert painter, and I've learned most of my techniques watching videos. You can find a lot of information on YouTube. Here is some good stuff to start off with: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL10C32CB2CD611E84

Hopefully this helps!

EDIT: I'm not the best best painter, in fact I'm still pretty new to this myself, having painted probably just under a dozen minis myself. However, I figured that'd probably put me in a good position to answer your questions as someone who's coming from the same place you're coming. That being said, this is my most recent piece - I just finished the base and varnishing it yesterday: https://imgur.com/a/Vj6fI (Unseen Battlemaster)

Links to the amazon pages for each product for easy access:

Gerber Dime

Gerber Shard

Sure here my take on your kit.

Much of your gear, is old school, thus real heavy, like things wrapped or made in leather. Seek to lighten up. Replace some with multiple usage instead of single use when possible.

You will increase your mileage with less efforts by reducing bulk and weight.

I love the pipes, I bring a few cigars myself. I like smoking stogies late at night by camp fire. Helps with bugs.

I would replace the 2 flasks with a single 3L water bladder.

Carry a box of Aquatabs, water filtering is not always enough. (Viruses in some context) and to cleanup/purify your water bladder.

The plastic spork (mine broke in the middle of a meal) with a titanium spork (exta long so it fits nicely inside those meal bags without burning or contaminating your meal on inserting your dirty camping fingers into your meal at each shovel full).

Substitute those meal bags with oatmeal and dehydrated fruit for breakfasts and lentils and rice, mixed with dehydrated mushrooms and vegetables for most meals. Made fresh at each site by simply boiling it in water with some seasoning, and is much healthier and low sodium and no preservative. It's less weight, more compact and each meal costing under $1.50 or less.

You can use Red Lentil, yellow or black , add rice, third of a cup of two colors around 1/2 cup total, add dehydrated veggies, shopped shiitake mushrooms or your favored dehydrated and chopped mushroom etc... Salt, pepper, etc, Fill water to the 500 ML mark, boil and voilà. You wont be able to find a cheaper yet healthy meal packed smaller, lighter and higher energy in any other way. This is a time proven recipe.

You can keep one or two envelope meals for when too tired to prep a real meal...

Add some energy bars, or protein bars for lunches, do not stop to eat, simply hike while munching on those, and you will never be hungry during hikes. Drink more fluids than usual.

You need a hat. (helps prevent heat exhaustion and heat stroke). Practice hat on in the sunlight, and hat off in the shades. It makes wearing a hat more bearable and reduces moisture loss.

You need bug repellent, and a facial bug net (depending on when and where, black flies can be a real issue).

Those simple meals should be complemented with "Electrolytes" boosters on hikes where you sweat profusely on hot days to replace fluids and other essential chemicals your body needs. Your sweat expresses chemicals that deplete your electrolytes and can make you sick to your stomach even though you hydrate, as water alone doest replace depleted body salts.

You have too many knives, you only need one. I substituted 3 of mine with a single mini multi tool and Light my fire knife which is so light my mini multi tool is actually heavier. You can sometimes find fully functional super mini multi tools in dollar stores for under $5.00 you really don't need anything more...

You need some para-cord (550 Lbs test). Great for surviving unexpected events or If only to repair shoe laces, hang food bags away from bears on a 15 foot branch or use as an line to secure a tent or tarp for day use on rainy days.

You need a small hiker's saw, with plastic handle (ultra light yet functional).

Ditch those gripless shoes and get real hikers, they provide real grip on slick even wet dirt, synthetics are ultra light, they breathe and you wont have any blisters. These look bloody uncomfortable for genuine long mileage hiking.

Get some carbon fiber hiking poles. (Costco has great robust light weight units for under $30.00)

Ditch the Kindle and learn mindfulness meditation. After all you are in deep wilderness in nature, learn to enjoy it...

Yubikey 4
 

Magpul Field Case
 

Spyderco Bug SS
 


Minimalist Brand Deuce Wallet
 

Ousi Leather Lighter Case
 

Previous EDC

• http://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Craftline-Allround-Utility-3-8-Inch/dp/B004GAVOUU/
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Allround-Multi-Purpose-Stainless-8-1-Inch/dp/B00CWMINNK/

Gerber Dime

Nitecore Torch

Parker Jotter

Opinel No 8

You're out 52c of your own money and have a full EDC :)

The ones I'd recommend to get as a first knife would be either the Ontario RAT 1 (was my first proper knife and got me into the hobby) or the Spyderco Tenacious.

Just choose which one of these you like better visually and you will be on your way (some of the best collections out there started from those 2 and you couldn't go wrong with either).

Good luck!

Cabling pro tip: get EZ heads and the specialized crimper. It's a little cost up front, but it'll make your cabling life so much easier.

Nevermind, Amazon show other crimps/connectors, makes perfect sense for low voltage wiring.

https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Professional-Compression-Ratcheting-Wire-electrode/dp/B00OMM4YUY

Get a manual precision/ jeweler's drill with a few bit sizes, such as this one: In-tool-home Precision Pin Vise Model Hand Drill Set with Twist Drill Bits Set of 11 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010BV7190/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Sya3AbWQQ6DFA

All you'll need to do is find a good-sized bit, attach it to the drill, place it against the desired spot and spin while holding in place with your pointer finger. Hope that helps!

A bit more expensive, but I'd have to go with my Leatherman Micra.

It's small enough to keep on a keychain, but it's versatile enough that I use it nearly every day. If you look around, you can find similar pocket-sized multitools for under $15, although I can't vouch for the quality of those. My Micra has lasted me a good 6 years so far though.

Maybe this( never used one so not a recommendation, just saying it is exists)

https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Micra-Keychain-Multitool-Stainless/dp/B000JCN0FG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=leatherman+micra&qid=1562642204&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Most people will suggest skipping GW for paint and hobby tools to save money. I suggest hitting amazon for a pair of flush cutters, set of needle files, and pack of testors model cement. Krylon camo black spray paint is a fine substitute for expensive primers. Vallejo paints are a top reccomended brand, and there is a conversion chart to convert old and new gw colors to vallejo colors.

A set of just standard tac marines is a great place to start, you'll use them for sure and theres plenty there to work on technique, hit up the warhammer youtube channel, as they have painting tutorials that are really great, watch as many as possible as each has something you can use even if they aren't painting space marine models.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FZPDG1K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1459352340&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=flush+cutter&dpPl=1&dpID=414t7uLh8KL&ref=plSrch


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013E68SU/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(Starting out you should be fine with just a zero, but if you really have moneh burnig a hole in your pocket a 1 and 00 would also come in handy eventually. Never leave your brush sitting in your water cup, don't let paint dry in your brush, and keep paint out of the metal part.)


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013D53CS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1459352997&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=testors+model+glue&dpPl=1&dpID=51QQU8wrc-L&ref=plSrch


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NPUKYS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1459352697&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=needle+file+set+for+metal&dpPl=1&dpID=412lincr%2B5L&ref=plSrch

Add an xacto and tube of superglue from your local superstore and you have all the tools needed to crank out perfectly acceptable models. I'll admit the brush is a bit overkill, but you're saving so much money on the rest of the tools, and a good brush makes the experience much more enjoyable, I suggest splurging there. Also don't bee fooled into buying a basing kit, regular old sand does just fine,

I'd recommend two pieces for your knife maintenance. A waterstone, for sharpening. And a ceramic honer. I also use two cheap mercer knife guards to keep the edges safe when transporting. With a bit of practice you can get scary sharp edges from a waterstone, just make sure you keep a very consistent angle.

If you are OK with buying brand new, a few popular options here are some suggestions with Amazon (USA) links:

• Gerber Dime
  
• Leatherman Style CS
  
• Leatherman Style PS
  
• Leatherman Micra
  
• Victorinox Classic SD
  
• Victorinox Tinker
  
• Gerber Shard
  
  There are many other popular "solid state" keychain tools like the Shard out there, but I did not want to list out many of those.

Phone: iPhone 5c + cheap Spigen case

Watch: Seiko SKX007 + Super Oyster II Bracelet

Wallet: Radix One

Keychain: Remove Before Flight tag, Sandisk Ultra Fit, Dollar Store Carabiner

Keychain Multitool: Victorinox Classic OR Leatherman Micra

Multitool: Leatherman Skeletool

Flashlight: Streamlight Microstream

Pen: Fisher Space Pen OR Modded Zebra 701

Yoyo: The Sage (for now)

First post, any questions or suggestions please feel free. Thanks guys!

https://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-2-Knife-Safety-Cap/dp/B000V1QV7O

So much more than just a bottle opener. Gerber-Artifact, I used to carry expensive knives but then just kept loosing them, so I got this to put on my key chain now. It's pretty sweet. and only $10

I have this Klein Tools screwdriver that hasn't had issues for several years.

https://smile.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-32500-Screwdriver-Driver/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1511207279&sr=1-2&keywords=klein+screwdriver

So this is what I have with me usually when going to work. Which is a 1h journey by high speed train, crossing an international border.

• The large knife is a Spyderco Native.
  
• And there is another Spyderco hiding in there too.
  
• The tiny flashlight is a Lenser K1
  
• The small flashlight is, I think, a Fenix
  
• 16 GB Thumbdrive
  
• iPhone 5S
  
• Beyerdynamic iDX 160 iE earbuds
  
• eVic Supreme eCigarette with a Nautilus Aspire tank
  
• A Schneider eXtra Document Pigment Pen
  
• A lightning cable
  
• Victorinox SwissTool Spirit III
  
• CRKT Eat N Tool
  
• Leatherman Squirt PS4
  
• A Victorinox quick-release key ring, released
  
• NiteIze key holder, keys, car key
  
• Bellroy Wallet
  
• Plasters Travel Kit
  
• Passport
  
• Maxpedition Pouch (and another, the MaxPedition EDC not shown)
  
  Link to highres picture What addition would compliment this EDC?

You could possibly save some weight with a couple little things like the spade, multitool, headlamp etc.

http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Dime-Multi-Tool-Black-30-000469/dp/B006M9NIDO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457458207&sr=8-1&keywords=gerber+dime

~ 2.3 oz saves 5.4 oz at $16

http://gossamergear.com/deuce-of-spades.html

~ .17 oz saves about 4.2 oz at $20

http://www.amazon.com/Petzl-e-LITE-26-Lumens/dp/B008AUBOTS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457458402&sr=8-1&keywords=petzl+e-lite

~ 1oz saves 1.2 oz at $30



No cost
Leave the wallet at home

saves 4oz

Don't take as much hand sanitizer. Put in a smaller dropper bottle

saves ~ 1.7 oz


Total saves about 16.5 oz or just over a pound for $66.


Otherwise if you want a big ticket item maybe the pack would be a good upgrade. http://www.zpacks.com/backpacks/arc_blast.shtml is 21oz at $325. But you might want to sort out your final tent before your pack so that you know your pack is the right size for your gear. tarptent.com has light weight tents for 2 people for under $300 like the squall 2 at a total of 34oz. that would save you about 30oz.

1. Spyderco Tenacious Folding Knife, G-10 Black
   
2. NiteCore SRT7 LED Flashlight
   with Stainless Steel Aggressive Crenulated Bezel Fit for Nitecore
   
3. STAR WARS x NIXON Boba Fett Unit SW Watch
   
4. Leatherman Tread Black Bracelet
   
5. Samsung Galaxy S5 (G900) Spare Battery
   
6. Coach Wallet - Got as gift, couldn't find much info. Burt's Bees lip balm and Jack Daniels Zippo.
   Keychain
   
7. Kingston Digital DataTraveler SE9 64GB USB 2.0 Flash Drive
   
8. Tile (Gen 2) - Phone Finder. Key Finder.
   
9. Gerber Shard Keychain Tool

http://smile.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1426042284&sr=8-7&keywords=crimper+rj45 73 bucks

[Image One]

This is an overall picture of what I carry in my backpack every day (non-work days as well)

The only item I don't get a close up on in this picture is my ranger-roll of an extra shirt, boxers, and pair of socks.

[Image two]

1. Deodorant - there are too many times where I forget to apply in my morning daze and realize once I'm in my car.
   
2. Deck of playing cards. In case the power goes out and I need some entertainment.
   
3. Uni Pipe-Shift Mechanical Pencil .07
   
4. Pilot Metropolitan Mechanical Pencil .05 I like to have both for sketching, the thicker lead helps with shading.
   
5. Pilot Metropolitan Fountain Pen, Fine Nib
   
6. Lucky Turtle, Also my Inception Totem :)
   
7. 128 GB Flash Drive - yes, it's real
   
8. Eraser - cuz art
   
9. Secret Santa Gift - Pen Twirling Pen I like to have things to fiddle with at my desk
   
10. Pocket Sized Moleskin Notebook that I write poetry in
    
11. Refillable Ink in case my fountain pen runs out and I don't have my ink bottle near
    
    [Image Three]
    
    
12. Razer Naga Epic
    
13. Old PSP case I use to store my mouse in
    
14. Travel Toothbrush
    
15. Kindle Paperwhite in a Faux Leather Case
    
16. Precision Screwdriver Set I bought at Radioshack
    
17. Laptop charger
    
18. USB Wall Charger
    
19. Mini USB Cables
    
    [Image Four]
    
    
20. Generic Sketchbook I bought at CVS - When work is slow and I get an idea, I draw it. Usually I tend to just free-hand copy images from the internet
    
    [Image Five]
    
    
21. My Personal Laptop Lenovo T440p that I got last year, this thing is a damn beast
    
22. Can of RedBull - I don't always need wings but sometimes when work is slow I start to fall asleep and this is needed
    
23. Filtered Water Bottle - Even IT Desk Monkeys need to drink sometimes
    
    [Image Six]
    
    This is my in pocket EDC, these things never leave my side
    
    Not Shown is my CellPhone which I used to take the pictured. It's a Droid DNA.
    
    
24. Razer Nabu SmartBand - Talks with my phone via bluetooth and will give me all my notifications on the mini screen as well as do the kind of generic fitness tracking that most fit bands do
    
25. Leather Wallet - Cash Money Yo
    
26. Pilot Metropolitan Gel Roller Pen - By now you've seen that I have three different Pilot Metropolitans. I love the feel of this pen and each version (fountain, gel roller, mechanical) I have in a different color to easily tell which one I am grabbing
    
27. Kershaw Cryo II - Best EDC Knife I've ever owned. I love the feel, look, and weight.
    
28. Car Key
    
29. 32 GB Flash Drive, This has my emergency geek tools on there as well as a few emulators, roms and minecraft (it stores all data on the drive)
    
30. House Keys.
    
    [Image Seven]
    
    This is my backpack with everything inside, it's a Northface Surge. They don't produce or sell these anymore. I got it about 6 years ago and it shows very little wear.

Night-Ize DoohicKey. It's probably the best I've ever owned. [Here.] (http://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-KMT-11-R3-DoohicKey-Multi-Tool/dp/B00FIX126K )

I'm not from California, but here are a few things you should bring:

-Warm clothes, extra clothes and at least 3-4 pairs of thick boot socks that has a wool mixture.

-Good boots.

-Gloves

-Wool cap

-Sun cap

-sunglasses

-Cutting tool (depends a lot on the environment you're in, but for the Cali desert, I think a knife is enough. Here's a good, sharp, affordable and safe knife: http://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Craftline-Allround-Utility-3-8-Inch/dp/B004GAVOUU/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1395556620&sr=8-8&keywords=morakniv)

-At least 3 different ways of making fire (storm proof matches, lighter, firesteel, magnifying lens, etc)

-Rope and cordage

-Water bottles and different ways to catch, store and purifying the water. Also, bring enough water if you're heading into a dry area.

-Shovel (very handy).

-Navigation: map & compass in ADDITION to any eventual digital navigation system.

-Cooking pot to kill germs in water, making tea, etc.

-Sleeping pad so you don't sleep on the bare ground because that will suck the heat out of you.

-Sleeping bag / thick wool blanket.

-Shelter.

-First aid kit with bandages and compresses.

-Enough food.

-Different tools to gather and catch food.

-Flares, signal mirror and other signal devices.

-Remember to have a good backpack that doesn't destroy your back.

-Cell phone and eventual solar cell charger.

And remember to tell friend or family exactly WHERE you're heading at and WHEN you are coming back. Try to give them updates on your position at least once or twice a day with your cell phone so Search and Rescue know roughly where you are.

You can also put a note about where you're going and when you're expecting to come back under your car's windshield wiper.

Edit: and before you go, try to learn to use your gear and try to gather basic survival knowledge.

Edit 2: Try to wear colors that stands out from the Cali desert so you are visible.

Edit 3: Always stay together as a group! Do NOT split up unless you absolutelly have to.

Edit 4: Mark where you're going so Search and Rescue can track you. You can lay rocks on the ground to form arrows to indicate the direction you're heading, tie pieces of fabric on branches, etc.

http://www.amazon.com/Mora-Made-in-Sweden-511/dp/B004GAVOUU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1370232883&sr=8-2&keywords=mora


1095 carbon steel, and this one can actually stand some pretty heavy abuse.

do you think the smaller mora might fit?
http://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Craftline-Allround-Utility-3-8-Inch/dp/B004GAVOUU/

The core material EDC, to me would be knife, light and cellphone. But cool keychain gidgets are really nice too.

So I'd say if you have a knife, a good flashlight would be next, then a backup knife and light (one is none, two is one). I like a multi-tool or SAK for my backup knife, and a keychain light for my backup torch.

(In case you're curious, after that I start considering footwear, gloves, hats and other clothing.)

(Sorry, I'm feeling a bit lazy, so you'll have to live with bare links.)

This one is pretty popular for keychain use: www.amazon.com/iTP-A3-EOS-Flashlight--Upgrade/dp/B006K5C2EG/

Fenix has single AA and 123 powered lights that are well regarded and compact:
AA: http://www.amazon.com/Fenix-E11-Compact-Lumen-Flashlight/dp/B005GW8UC2
CR123: www.amazon.com/Fenix-Compact-140-Lumen-Flashlight/dp/B005CWRB44

There are a lot of other brands worthy of consideration too, of course (Fourseven's mini, Jetbeam, Klarus, Zebra, just to name a few).

There are also a lot of much larger but more capable flashlights out there.

Keychain stuff is always nice:
I use these sliver grippers way more than I thought I would. The convenience of always having them around is unparalleled: http://www.amazon.com/UNCLE-BILLS-SLIVER-GRIPPER-TWEEZER/dp/B001KMSUA4
I've been thinking of getting this, I'm a little leery about that much stuff for so little cost though: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003A5E5IK
I love this style of keyring, but it's way cheaper on eBay: http://www.amazon.com/Vigilant-Gear-Aircraft-Cable-Ring/dp/B006ZSP1PA
Little one-piece keychain tools have become really popular, and I really like having a little prying and screwing tool always present.
The Gerber Shard is cheap but probably at least worth what you pay for it: http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-22-01769-Shard-Keychain-Tool/dp/B002ZK45IQ
This one has a bit more functionality, and is made of the magically delicious titanium: http://www.amazon.com/Schrade-Chain-Tool-Seatbelt-Cutter/dp/B004PQJ1QO

Keychain multi-tools can be good.
Here's one from Gerber: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006M9NIDO
Supposedly the build quality isn't as good as Leatherman's though: http://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-64010101K-Micra-Multi-tool/dp/B000JCN0FG

I'd also recommend looking for a glow in the dark lanyard.

A pen you can EDC is another "you're surprised how often you use it" item. I have an Inka and it's definitely alright, though a bit fiddly: http://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-Inc-Inka-Pen/dp/B001E6R6EM/
The biggest competitor is the classic Fisher Bullet Space Pen: http://www.amazon.com/Fisher-Space-Pen-Bullet-400B/dp/B000WGD13U

Something to write on is nice. I'm a real child of the digital age, but I still like having an analog recording medium on me. I prefer Pentalic's pocket size books to Moleskine's. They're a little thicker, but they have a flexible cover, and are usually cheaper. Here's one: http://www.amazon.com/Pentalic-Travelers-Sketch-3-Inch-4-Inch/dp/B0025TZ35Q but I don't know if it's ruled or grid or what. I also prefer a bright color cover to make it easy to spot.

Continuing on the writing stuff matter, a sharpie and/or a metallic (ink) sharpie are nice to have. You can get sharpies with stainless steel cases too, which feel nicer to hold, and you're a little less likely to forget somewhere.
Black (dozen): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IFEP
Stainless Steel: http://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Stainless-Permanent-Marker-1747388/dp/B001V9LQLG
Metallic: http://www.amazon.com/Sanford-39108PP-Metallic-Sharpie-Permanent/dp/B00119QWCO

I think everybody should carry some sort of bandanna. I carry an off-brand buff (tubular bandanna) and an olive drab shemagh.

I like to carry a small baggie of what I call MacGuyver goods. Paracord (bound up in a hanayawa right now), some gorilla tape and electrical tape wrapped around a card, super glue, a sewing kit, zip ties, twist ties, rubber bands, safety pins, binder clips, and a few 1 quart ziplock freezer bags. (Like hell I'm finding links for all of those.)

Yet another "surprising how useful it turns out to be" item is a small mirror: http://www.amazon.com/Coghlans-Featherweight-Mirror/dp/B0047QV44O/

Whistles are useful for warning people of fire or danger, or calling for help, so I like to carry one: http://www.amazon.com/Fox-40-Whistle-Breakaway-Lanyard/dp/B00544UJC6

A monocular is fun to have on your person. This particular model is really great because of its super low minimum focusing distance, which lets you use it as a sort of loupe. In regular mode it's good for looking for house numbers or your car in a parking lot, that sort of thing: http://www.amazon.com/Brunton-Echo-7x18-Pocket-Scope/dp/B000FKMTBS

I think that's all I could come up with off the top of my head.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007CK1MNU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dM.YAbQRPJRCP

I would personally stay away from SOG. They are not as bad as some people on here may tell you but they just can't beat Spyderco, Benchmade and Kershaw. I would stick to these 3 brands when starting a collection and if you want you can expand to other companies. For a price range of $80 you might be able to get a Benchmade Griptilian or Mini-Griptilian. Remember that there are a TON of black coated blades out there. There is even a Black Blade Tenacious which is what I am recommending to you.

I wish I was in your position though. I got into knives about 3 months after I got Eagle. If you get the right knife you can be the coolest guy in the troop or even be the 'knife guy'. Anyway feel free to ask any questions.

Japanese saws are great fun.
$42 Good for dovetails and fine work: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JW19U8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$37 Good for cutting up pretty much everything:
https://www.amazon.com/Ryoba-Double-Razor-Hardwoods-Woodworker/dp/B00BSQU9UQ/ref=pd_bxgy_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BSQU9UQ&pd_rd_r=V3Z49PY3ZZA2EPHVWECV&pd_rd_w=AqtIY&pd_rd_wg=C155B&psc=1&refRID=V3Z49PY3ZZA2EPHVWECV

Molex crimper

pin vise

I like King Brand Japanese waterstones like this but really you need to take a look for yourself. Same with knives. Look for something that is comfortable to hold and feels natural in your hand, in my opinion that is far better than to just look at brands and then look up reviews about: How quickly will it dull? How hard is it to sharpen? Price? Stuff like that.

The Kershaw Chive pocket knife.

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Onion-Chive-Pocket-Knife/dp/B0009VC9RW

It's utterly fantastic. I've been using one for over ten years.

Seconding that you should upgrade the knife.

There are a lot of good options, although I would recommend you shy away from the Gerber brand as they have some quality control issues, and have been running quite a few recalls (Including on that utility knife you're carrying). I was hoping to have a link for you to an article comparing their number of recalls versus several other companies but can't seem to find it currently. A quick googling though will show you what I mean.

For a list of nice knife options for less than $100 (and most around the $50 mark) check out some of these:

Spyderco Endura

Cold Steel Recon 1


Cold Steel American Lawman

Cold Steel Voyager

Kershaw Blur

Benchmade Griptilian

Ontario RAT 1 Folder

CRKT Heiho


I think these on top of the list /u/OC4815162342 provided should give you oodles of options!

Also if you want to upgrade that wallet of yours here are some options to look at.

www.Popovleather.com

Guy is also a redditor.

Leather Mimalist Wallets

Minimalist Wallets

Knife that doesn't take "long to get open."

Honestly most folders do not take long to get open in any way shape or form. You just have to use it and practice with it to learn the best/fastest/safest way to get it open. If someone told you to not play with knives, well if you wanna go around carrying a knife forget that. While you're at it take a self defense course or some martial arts classes that will help you better understand how to handle and use a knife in a fight.


I've been carrying a knife on me since I was 17 and got a job in a bad neighborhood. Never had to use it once in self-defense but I've felt safer in many situations that have come up in life because it was there. Having said that, I don't recommend carrying a knife to everyone. It's not for everyone. My Mom had a friend who asked me about it once after taking some self-defense classes. She was the type of person that had a panic response to a new phone not working the way she expected. I told her flat out, don't carry a knife, it can and most likely will be used against you, and here's why. Knowing she was prone to panic she agreed and we agreed pepper spray was a better option for her.


I'd also like to say here, don't discount the whistle. A much overlooked device. When used against someone who is deliberately trying to do you harm it will be like pissing into the wind. However, when faced with someone like the OP was faced with, it has to power to make someone realize they need to move the fuck on as this is not playing out how they may have thought it would play out in their head. "Is that a rape whistle?! WTF? Bitch you crazy... drives the fuck on" Is what I imagine would happen in that scenario.


Disclaimer: I don't think you'd be crazy for blowing a whistle, I'm saying what I imagine would go through the head of a clueless motherfucker like that.

I was in a similar place as you. Here's what I got:

• Moleskine Notebook 2.5 x 4
  
• Fisher Space Pen
  
• Leatherman Micra
  
  I wanted a small EDC that I could fit into all my pockets. It's not for everyone, but it's worked out really well for me. I use the pen almost daily, and even though it's only my third favorite in terms of writing, always having a pen on me is awesome. The Mirca has been great for just having a decent pair of scissors and a pocket knife. The other features will pay for itself when the time comes. The notebook I keep in my back pocket with the pen. It goes with always having something to write with, I now have something to write on.
  
  I really should post my EDC soon, seeing as this sub was what inspired me to pick up those items.

The 3 things you need are:

• something to cut the pieces off the sprue -- an exacto knife will work, but flush cutters are easier to work with.
  
• an adhesive -- super glue works, but plastic cement is better.
  
• something to remove sprue nubs/mold lines from the plastic -- an exacto knife can work again here, but I prefer needle files. Much harder to make an error than when using a knife.
  
  That's pretty much it. If you want to dive in really deep I have a massive post that lists other tools and touches on a lot of customization that people have done. But none of that's mandatory, you can very easily forge ahead with just the 3 tools I linked above.

After a recent (semi-) failure of my normal EDC, I decided to upgrade my plier-ing options. Found this little number on AmazonKnipex Miniature Pliers with some great reviews and went for it.

It is quite a bit smaller than I thought it would be, but it seems very sturdy. At its widest it can grip a normal plastic bottle lid, which is quite the range to be honest for such a small tool.

It fits perfectly in my Maxpedition Micro case.

I also threw in a Stanley Pen Screwdriver to the basket, cause why not.

I do a lot of sharpening, and have used many kinds of stones, jigs, and gadgets. Many of the jigs and gadgets are junk, or slow, or high-maintenance.
For basic kitchen knife maintenance, it's worth it to learn to sharpen freehand with inexpensive waterstones. If you want to spend more money for better tools, spend it on nice big diamond stones. Don't spend money on sharpening machines, jigs, or gadgets. My personal sharpening setup is three 3x8 EZE-Lap diamond stones (Coarse, fine, and super-fine), and a leather strop with chromium oxide buffing powder. With this I can turn pretty much any piece of steel into a long-lasting razor blade. EZE-lap makes some nice double-sided diamond stones too that look great for kitchen use. Knife steels have their place (touch-ups between real sharpenings), but are not a complete solution on their own, and can be bypassed entirely.

For knives, anything that's not super low-end is good. It should feel great when held correctly. Most home cooks who've spent $200 on a fancy chef's knife would be just as well off with something like a $55 Henckel's Classic. Knives like that are good steel, easy to sharpen and easy to use. Most good knives require thoughtful maintenance. If someone needs a cook's knife but will not take good care of it, get them a Victorinox Fibrox. They're cheap, good-enough knives with handles that can survive the dishwasher. I also like knives from Wüsthof, Global, Shun, Mac, and many others. Modern knives are mostly excellent. As long as you avoid ultra-cheap options and exotic gimmicks, it's easy to go right.

• handkerchief
  
• iPhone 5s
  
• [Saddleback Leather ID wallet, dark coffee brown] (http://www.saddlebackleather.com/pocketidwallet)
  
• Fisher Space Pen, matte black
  
• Streamlight Nano
  
• Leatherman Brewzer
  
• Kershaw Ken Onion Chive
  
  In My Bag:
  
  Survival Tins --
  
  
• Plastic Baggie from REI (unavailable online, sadly)
  
  --Medical--
  
  
• Gauze pads, antiseptic wipes, bandages from $2 CVS first aid kit
  
• off-brand superglue
  
• whistle - Fox 40 Rescue Howler Whistle
  
  --Fire--
  
  
• Mini Bic Lighter
  
• Firestarter - Light My Fire 2
  
• Generic Kindling from REI
  
• strike-anywhere matches
  
• stormproof matches and striking surface from REI (unavailable online)
  
• gauze pad (for kindling and to keep items from rattling)
  
• Bicycle Poker Size Rider Back playing cards
  
  Other --
  
  
• Old Spice Classic
  
• "Rubicks" Cube, ShengShou Aurora 3x3 black
  
• Klean Kanteen Vacuum Insulated Stainless Steel Tumbler, 16oz -- I take this thing with me everywhere
  
• Klean Kanteen Pint Lid -- I keep this in my bag, only use it once in a while, but it's nice to have on hand.
  

I put a folding knife in that pocket. The pocket is so tight though that when I need the knife it is often too hard to get it out so I just walk across the room to get a pair of scissors...

There are so many knives and pocket tools, and what you like depends on how you're going to use it and what your general aesthetic is.

Trimming nails? Opening envelopes? Tightening screws? Cutting wire? Peeling oranges? Fending off wolverines?

Wood? Steel? Plastic?

Tell us what you want to use it for, and what material you prefer.

Here are a few of my favorites:

Great combination of tools, including good phillips:

https://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Swiss-Rambler-Pocket-Knife/dp/B000FNFXQS

Great wire clippers/strippers; good other tools:

https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Squirt®-Es4-Multi-Tool-Blue/dp/B0032Y4ITU

Classic three blade wood:

https://www.amazon.com/Buck-Knives-0371BRS-Stockman-Woodgrain/dp/B000EHYZNC

Classic metal:

https://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1600-Chive/dp/B0009VC9RW

Great small tool with a clip and good scissors:

https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Style®-Multi-Tool-Stainless-Steel/dp/B0032XVNMQ

A good quality pocket knife. Never knew how much I needed (or would use one) until I got one.

Something like a made in USA Kershaw. Great piece of gear.
http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Onion-Chive-Pocket-Knife/dp/B0009VC9RW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406647692&sr=8-1&keywords=kershaw+chive

That looks like a pretty standard assisted-opener, unless I'm missing something. Kershaw makes a few models that are a step up but won't break the bank. The Blur that /u/Clocktease suggested is a good one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009VCA0I?psc=1

For the record, I feel the same that the Cryo is too slippery - which is why I'm super glad Kershaw released a G10 version of it last year.

I also agree that the Tenacious is just a bit too big for EDC - and they do make the Persistence, which is a shrunken version of the Tenacious, with a 2.75 inch blade vs the Tenacious' 3-3/8 inch blade. If you wanna go even smaller, the Ambitious has a 2.25" blade. All 3 knives share a similar design (though the Ambitious is small enough that the proportions might look a little weird to some).

A few other knives of note that are standouts in the sub-$50 price range:

• CRKT Ripple - Ken Onion design with a more-traditional drop point blade, IKBS, 8Cr14MoV. Usually on most people's "Under $50" list.
  
  
• Kershaw Leek - Again, a little slippery and still Speedsafe but a slightly weaker torsion bar so not as forceful. Some people have issues with broken tips since they're a little thin, but this thing was the best under $50 when it came out.
  
  
• Ontario RAT 1 - At $25 this thing is a pretty great package, if not a little big. 3.5" blade, but it's AUS-8 if you don't like the 8Cr China steels (even if they are pretty similar).
  
  
• SOG Flash II - again, a 3.5 inch, AUS-8 blade. Assisted opening, but much less forceful than Speedsafe.
  
  
• The Kershaw Emerson CQC-6K has blown up since it's release and a lot of high speed low drag tactical types love it for EDC use. $25 makes it a pretty appealing choice and rock solid under $30.
  
  
• The Spyderco Delica 4 is just a touch over $50, averaging about $60, but it's also a go-to knife in the $50 for many people. VG-10 steel on this one is a big selling point.
  
  
• On the same hand, the Kershaw Blur is usually available for about $60, and for those looking for a big folder (seriously this thing is large) it's a great choice. Sandvik 14C28N as standard steel, also available with S30V for about $75.
  
  A few notes here
  
  
• You'll see a lot of sub $50 knives using 8Cr13MoV or 8Cr14MoV. The main difference is a little more Chromium in the 8Cr14MoV, leading to a little more corrosion resistance. A lot of people loved the Skyline, but there were a few issues with minor rust spots on the knives, leading to many companies switching to 8Cr14MoV for some of their knives (most of the budget Kershaws are 8Cr14MoV now).
  
  
• Kershaw has many many options for budget folders under $50, for all kinds of aesthetic tastes. The Chill, Thermite, Link, Oso Sweet, etc. I've owned a handful of Kershaws, and loved all of them, especially for the price.
  
  
• The 8Cr steels (13MoV and 14MoV) are pretty much on par with AUS-8, especially from CRKT, Spyderco, and Kershaw who all do a good job on their heat treats. There's a slight difference in hardness (3 to 4 HRC difference by most counts), but really they're nearly identical for all intents and purposes, mainly sharpening and edge retention. Some people just prefer AUS-8 because they don't like so called "China steel."
  
  
  ETA a few more links and some clarification of my still-awake-at-5am rambling.

Here is what I consider the bare necessities:

Radius block: Get one with the radius to match your fretboard. Attach self-adhesive sandpaper or use double-sided tape, mark your frets with a Sharpie, and start leveling.

Fret crowning file: Pick one that's the appropriate size for your frets. You can find info on what size to use on Stew Mac's site.

Needle files: These are just good to have. They'll be helpful to file the fret ends among other things.

Extra fine sandpaper/0000 steel wool: Once your frets are shaped, you will want to polish them. Steel wool won't give you the shiniest finish, but it's perfectly presentable. If you want mirror-finish frets, use fine sandpapers or fret erasers. ALWAYS mask your pickups or do your fretting with the neck detached from the body. You will end up with fret filings and steel wool particles all over your pups otherwise.

For tutorials and advice, check out r/Luthier or the Crimson Guitars YouTube channel.

> First, how do I patch holes in the plastic

You really can't unless you want to repaint the entire SNES case. You'd need to use Bondo, fill it, sand it, prime, then paint ... or spend $6 on a new shell and be done with it.

>how do I smooth out the edges of the holes I cut.

Use a fine grit file. You gotta remember that filing eats away at material too. Make your initial cut smaller than you need, then file it to the proper size.

At the very least get a set of channel locks and a 11 in 1, you can tackle a lot of handyman jobs around the house with those two tools.

https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Industrial-Strength-Klein-Tools/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Klein+11+in+1&qid=1568254385&s=gateway&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-VISE-GRIP-GrooveLock-2078709/dp/B000FK1R0W/ref=sxin_4_osp99-ebfabea8_cov?ascsubtag=ebfabea8-942a-40f4-a928-b0bcf10c1d47&creativeASIN=B000FK1R0W&crid=52N01XQTME7Q&cv_ct_id=amzn1.osp.ebfabea8-942a-40f4-a928-b0bcf10c1d47&cv_ct_pg=search&cv_ct_wn=osp-search&keywords=channel+locks+plier+set&linkCode=oas&pd_rd_i=B000FK1R0W&pd_rd_r=6a0d0353-d9d4-4a0b-91ae-ed1ec49454dd&pd_rd_w=tT9Vl&pd_rd_wg=skAr1&pf_rd_p=53eff971-6e12-4016-9864-b6dfd929b2b3&pf_rd_r=5QEVBGFZ82ZEBZJ4V0QZ&qid=1568254408&s=gateway&sprefix=Channel+Locks%2Caps%2C501&tag=gearpublish-20

Screwdriver and Nut Driver 11-in-1 Multi Tool, Industrial Strength Bits, Cushion Grip Handle Klein Tools 32500 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_S.9XBbS1RP5HN

At half the price, they are most definitely worth it!

Set wear hot hands are the best insulated work gloves I've ever used. You can hold something 400 degrees for a good 10-15 seconds before you start to feel the heat. It's a real leather too, which lasts longer.

If you're going to the UFT you might as well go for the full ratcheting version rather than ape ding that money twice. Personally I don't care for the UFT I use a Gator Grip socket on a short handled rachet with a swiveling head. Then I also carry a Mega Combo Wrench from The Light Source on my keyring.

Most screw drivers you find won't have a tether hole, I assume because you use them in a circular motion. For an all purpose carry look for a XX in 1, that has multiple bits all in one screwdriver. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_JsPOCbM5B9DK8 something like this.

Is also recommend looking at multi tools, I use a Gerber Center Drive because it has a bit driver to use real screw bits and I like it a lot.

Another good gift idea are flashlights. I'm always on the lookout for the next great flashlight.

I love my Spyderco Bug

The Spyderco Bug? Just a note, it is really really small. They have other knives in the same line that you may like more.

This Mora knife has become my favorite. Incredibly sharp and tough, at $9 you can buy several and stash them in handy locations.

I just got the gerber “dime” I like it so far. Gerber Dime Multi-Tool, Black [30-000469] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006M9NIDO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_XomnDbERXHC6J

At the moment I'm running:

TEC Centipede - Titanium ruler that's about 8.5cm in length. I measure things irregularly, but not enough to warrant a full tape measure which will take up more pocket space. Feels super well made.

Leatherman Micra - Just got it, and I'm torn on how much I like it. Whilst beefy, the scissors sometimes flex whilst cutting thicker items (so it goes between the blades laterally). I've never had this problem with my Classic SD, and may end up moving up to a 74mm Victorinox like the Executive for the sake of the bigger scissors.

Boker Vox Access Tool - Titanium prybar with a carbide glass breaker on the end. I've come from the SD Titanium Prybar which was bloody useless for nail pulling due to the groove literally being a 'V' without any guiding for nails, and the edge of the bottle opener kept digging into my hand when I used it. Although for it's follies, the tip lip is very thin (yet sturdy) and can get between thinner crevices than the VAT; I also drove in a couple of nails with the SD, and in seeing if I could unscrew a half in one with the VAT, I chipped the guiding groove for the nail puller (not severely, but it was kind of disheartening as I literally just bought it and didn't think it was much of a stress test).

Kershaw Pub - Technically this isn't on my keys, as I put it in the 'snuff pocket' in my jeans, it's beefier than the VAT for box opening, and the blade is about the same size as a Stanley blade. It's a bit of a different design and great for fidgeting. Not so great for fidgeting when people see you, but fun all the same.

I've currently retired:

The SD Ti Prybar - See above, a great little prybar, hampered by a frankly stupid decision to put a bottle opener on it. NOT EVERYTHING NEEDS A BOTTLE OPENER.

Victorinox Classic SD - A present which I absolutely love, however I'm in the pursuit for something 'beefier', although the scissors on this are second to none for all the little odd jobs I've had over the years.

Uncle Bills Sliver Grippers - Brilliant tweezers for splinters, however the first day I put them on my keys, and then sat on my keys, I hadn't put them in the holder right and they stabbed me in the arse. These tweezers have never been on my keys since.

Resqme Car Escape tool - Had it on the keychain, realised I'd only ever use it in the car, and now I keep it in the glovebox as I have the glass breaker on the VAT.

Leatherman Squirt PS4 - An absolutely fantastic multitool let down by a shit pair of scissors which have a lot of play between the blades. It results in a lot of rough cuts and ultimately spoils a perfect out of the box multi-tool. In the pursuit of better scissors and a lighter set of keys, I've currently retired this fantastic piece of kit.

Leatherman Brewzer - I absolutely loved this little prybar, but it broke in half when I tried to get a little shelf stud out of a bookcase, and it just shattered my confidence in the product to the point that I can't be bothered sending it in under warranty, as I know I'd never use it again.

Gerber Dime - I bought this at the same time as the Squirt PS4 because I couldn't decide between them. After taking them both out of the packing and comparing them side by side one after the other, it was instantly obvious that the Leatherman was just the better fit, so this was retired pretty much instantly and was gifted within an hour.

True Utility Keytool - First keytool I ever had and it was great for years! Practically invisible and as I only used it for the file, the mini screwdriver, and the thread cutter, it was fantastic. Never had an issue with the quality, and never had the need to take it off the key it was on, I only stopped carrying it because I don't use the type of key it works with anymore, and don't want to carry it round for the sake of it when I have so many other options. Great little buy though.

I'm probably going to buy:

Victorinox Manager - This is pretty much the best multitool for what I really need, and it has a pen. It's just 58mm and I really want a larger pair of scissors, however it has all the tools I've used recently, and it has a pen!

Another Prybar. As soon as I find a beefy titanium 80mm~ straight prybar which doesn't have a bottle opener on it, and instead has another useful purpose I'm going to get it. Hell, even if it doesn't have a secondary purpose I'll probably get it as well.

[S&W Shield 9MM] (http://www.smith-wesson.com/firearms/mp-9-shield-0)

[CYA Supply Co. IWB Holster] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IPNAW6U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Timex Chronograph] (https://www.express.com/clothing/men/timex-miami-chronograph-gift-set/pro/04741814/color/SILVER)

[Kershaw Leek] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009VC9Y0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Gerber Dime Multi Tool] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006M9NIDO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Klarus Mini One 130 Lumens Rechargeable Flashlight] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077VLY8R3/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[House of Jack Double ID Bifold Wallet] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UDPNBBM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Zippo Venetian Slim High Polish Brass] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000W34K5Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

3' Keychain Measuring Tape

Lip Balm/Comb

Gold plated Tungsten Carbide pinky ring

Extra 7-Round Mag

Off the top of my head things that are cool and don't break the bank:

Kershaw Cryo

Spydero Tenacious

Leatherman Wingman

Streamlight Microstream

Gerber Impromptu Pen

Spyderco Tenacious

Saddleback Leather ID

Moleskin

Pilot G2

Victorinox Farmer

JVC Marshmellow

Timex Weekender

Forgiven Wristband

SanDisk 8GB flash drive

Aircraft Cable Keychain

Gum

Keys

Some beat up $5 dollar case

Galaxy S2

Apple Watch Sport w/ Apple orange band

Fisher Space Pen

iPhone 6s 64g

Spyderco Tenacious

Slimfold Wallet

Ford Fusion '13 Key Fob

Keysmart

Olight S10

Field Notes Expedition

Platinum Tools 100054C Clamshell EZ-RJPRO HD Crimp Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k2Z6CbXKTBCPQ

This is what I use at work. Great tool. Really heavy duty. But also a pretty penny. Work bought em and I can say it is honestly one tool that I have that's quality.

These things are awesome.

Lol, alright for example:

• Spyderco Delica 4 FFG: For your price range this is going to be the "best" steel you can get in a near 3" folding knife (VG-10). By best I mean the best edge retention in a stainless steel. However, being over 2.5" in some places (Chacago for example) the knife will be illegal. Also, many people do not like the look of the spyderhole as it can be seen as aggressive in office environments. Also the FRN handles, while very strong, have a cheap/plastic feel to them.
  
  
• Spyderco Tenacious: Compared to the Delica, 8CR13MOV is a "worse" stainless steel (not as good edge retention, more prone to chipping during heavy impacts). However, the extra blade length is better for many outdoor tasks (breaking down tree branches). The handle is also G10, which is slightly tougher and has a much better feeling in hand than FRN.
  
  
• Spyderco Centofante 3: A more "gentlemanly" and "office friendly" version of the Delica with a slightly longer blade. Again, VG-10 and FRN.
  
  
• Kershaw Cryo II: Same steel as the tenacious. Metal handles slightly tougher than G10. Flipper action has "cool" factor. The blade grind makes the tip a touch stronger than on the tenacious.
  
  
• Kershaw Skyline: One of the most iconic of Kershaw's knives. Hollow ground blade makes it great at slicing tasks.
  
  
• Esee Izula: Skeletonized fixed blade. 1095 Steel is significantly better than the other steels listed at "chopping" tasks as it is not prone to chipping at all. It is NOT stainless and so the blade has a protective coating over most of it. The steel will require mineral oil/cleaning to prevent rusting.
  
  
• Becker BK 24: Similar to the Esee Izula but D2 steel which has better edge retention and more corrosion resistance than 1095. It is also much harder to sharpen. Many think the BK24's handle is also less comfortable, the sheath is worse, and there are less available after market modifications.
  
  
• Ontario Rat Series (linked the RAT I. RAT 2 similar but smaller): Ontario's version of the tenacious. Bladeshape generally more people friendly. Another very popular beater option.
  
  
• Morakniv Knives (there are MANY, this is just one): Highly regarded in the "bushcraft" community. High carbon steel (similar to 1095) with a scandi-grind which is great for field sharpening and woodworking. Only partial tangs so not advised to use for battoning tasks or chopping.
  
  
• Kershaw OD-2: Gentlemanly knife with great flipping action.
  
  There are a LOT more suggestions I could add...

Here are my personal essentials.

• Spyderco Delica 4: $60 VG-10 steel, comes in tons of colors
  
• Spyderco Endura 4: Larger version of Delica
  
• Morakniv Companion: $12-$20 A really awesome fixed blade, outperforms knives triple it's price.
  
• Victorinox Tinker: $20-25 classic swiss army knife, really great quality in general. Lots of tools but not too many so it's easily pocket carried.
  
• Victorinox Cadet: Smaller Swiss Army Knife, aluminum handles. Lots of colors.
  
• Kershaw Cryo, or Cryo 2: $20-40 steel frame lock, Hinderer design, good price, tons of colors. The Cryo 2 is the same as the Cryo just larger.
  
• Ontaro Rat 1 or 2: $25-30 Classically shaped folders with a very rugged build for a liner lock. The 2 is a smaller version of the 1.
  
  Also, you're going to want a sharpening system that works for you in the long run. I personally use the Spyderco Sharpmaker But there are tons of good sharpening options out there.
  
  P.S: You're going to get a lot of people hating on your Gerbers most likely, that's because they're honestly not worth it in the long run. They use very low quality steel for the price and they don't have the best quality control. I'm not saying your Gerbers are trash or anything. But they definitely won't last very long. Just about all of the knives I listed will last you a lifetime if you treat them right, and oil/sharpen them correctly.

You can get a Kershaw cryo2 for that price range and it's a solid knife.

Kershaw Knives 1556TI Cryo II
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AU6NWP4/

I bought this one and some random bits for it (not sure what they're called, maybe pin housing?), and everything works great.

$23 isn't bad. The end result is worth it, and it's much faster than soldering for me

Not sure about that one in particular but my friend has one of these and swears by it:

http://www.amazon.com/Klein-32500-Screwdriver-Driver-Cushion/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427291911&sr=8-1&keywords=klein+screwdriver

It's a pretty neat design and is quick to switch the drivers. It's also a Klein so it should be high quality.

I'm in the UK and have one of these on my keyring. I use it to cut open boxes etc often.

Legally you can carry larger knifes in public, I don't know the length. If they're fold out, they can't lock, not even at the tiny size of this keyring knife.

Edit You can also carry knives this small onto planes.

Nope.

Spyderco Bug SS Slip Joint Plain Edge Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003788U9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_5AyMwbG392X2E

Wow, I've been using it for two years actually, haha. No model number, but here's the Amazon link

Well the biggest issue is that they have a hollow handle. This means that the cavity of the handle is empty and can be dangerous/prone to breaking. Most people dislike the bear grylls series because he is somewhat of a poser when it comes to actual survival skills. However the knives have been heralded as comfortable and honestly they aren't as terrible as the benchmade fanboys make them out to be. I am completely sure you could use it just fine for most tasks. I actually have the folding version and while it isn't my favorite knife it isn't bad especially for 1/10 the price of a benchmade/spyderco. Even if the knife isn't ideal don't think for a second you couldn't use it effectively. Knives in general are really only a sharpened chunk of metal. Anybody telling you differently either wants your money or someone trying to convince themselves that $300 on a knife makes it somehow magically better or invincible.

Don't fall into the "I need a $200+ knife to survive" fallacy though many are the same and the only real thing that matters in any cutting tools performance is

• Material (most knives are cheap on this so just try to read up on steel/ hardness. You most likely do not want a stainless steel (high carbon instead). I prefer a 63hrc blade but then it will be brittle so you cannot pound on it without it chipping but the higher hardness will make it suck to sharpen but nice to hold and edge/get sharp. Also higher hrc-hardness can chip in cold climates so you might have to warm the blade. Most knives/axes are about 58 hrc which is a pretty good balance. Just remember there is no free lunch and everything has drawbacks. You don't need the best steel just make sure it will work)
  
  
• Geometry (For a camping knife you probably want a scandi or convex grind. Most knives are a double bevel which is cheaper to produce but doesn't quite match up to the other grinds. If you can't find one don't worry it isn't a huge deal just because you don't have a $500 knife doesn't mean you cannot cut a tree with it.)
  
  Ok there are more criteria like handle, finish, comfort,economy but generally those are the big two that determine how a knife will preform. Lots of manufacturers want you to spend a fortune but it just isn't necessary. Mora makes a great knife that has so many uses and is so cheap/replaceable you can almost afford to lose it (every penny saved can be spent on items used more often like a bag or boots). It is a bit small for "survival" but personally I would get a hatchet to serve as a larger cutting tool ( This one is $40 and made by hultafors bruks a pretty decent axe company and combined with the mora is still $50 total much less than some of the acclaimed knives). I don't buy into the big knife hype simply because I find them cumbersome to use for general tasks which I find myself doing much more of than hacking trees for survival. Your mileage may vary. If you really want a big knife the above suggested K-bar and Ontario are pretty great suggestions and the military style is very hard to beat for usability.
  

I have the Morakniv Craftline Q Allround. It's pretty great, especially for the price.

Get a basic Mora. They're made to be work knives. Sharp and sharpen easily. Won't last forever under heavy usage, but will last a good while and are soooo cheap to replace compared to comparable alternatives. (Few knives will last for ever under heavy usage anyway - you'll sharpen them away if nothing else.)

I'd go for the Mora Robust but you could also consider the Mora 511 or other cheaper Mora models for a thinner and slicier blade.

Also the Scandi grind is good for carving.

I like getting the small things as gifts. Things I misplace or might not grab myself.

Gerber Dime Multi-Tool, Black [30-000469] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006M9NIDO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_pvcBxb58D4MMB

Aimkon iTP A3 EOS Max 130 Lumen LED Flashlight Cool White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BM5GQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_-vcBxb144A2CF

Frogg Toggs The Original Chilly Pad Cooling Towel, Ice White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CKCUSMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_DwcBxb22YD8AD

Leegoal Ultralight Backpacking Canister Camp Stove with Piezo Ignition 3.9oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_pxcBxbQZ4XD4G

NEW Bottle Clip Strap With Compass Camping Hiking Carabiner Water Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L3YOLDO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_pycBxbYD4T2JS

BINGONE Nylon 4-in-1 Drawstring Bags / Ditty Bag / Cord Bag Home Storage Travel Use 4 Different Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VM4HR6S/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_dzcBxbMF0HKZ8

WindFire® Mini Zoomable 3 Modes UV-Ultraviolet Led Blacklight Flashlight AA/14500 Rechargeable Battery Zoom UV Ultraviolet Blacklight Flashlight Torch with Features Money Detector, Leak detector and Cat-Dog-Pet Urine Detector (Battery not included) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S4CFB4G/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_KzcBxbEKNHQTQ

iPerb® Aluminum Alloy Tri-cone Shaped Tent Stakes Pegs 15g Each-Pack of 14 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LD2TIUM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_pAcBxbKVMRABT

Bluecell 16Pcs Red Color Aluminum Guyline Cord Adjuster for Tent Camping Hiking Backpacking Picnic Shelter Shade Canopy Outdoor Activity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUDFMI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_NAcBxb0GS1V7V

Nite Ize Reflective Nylon Cord, Woven for High Strength, 50 Feet, Green https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MMEHTC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_9AcBxbDAJPW6D

Nite Ize KRG-03-11 S-Biner Key Ring, Stainless https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MMEHWE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_NEcBxb41K6YTE

Stove, light, knife, cord, stakes, tensioners, blacklight for scorpion spotting for fun, water bottle clip, kee cool wet towel, ditty bags, micro s-biners. For mostly under 10 bucks, few under 20.

Pick some. That flashlight rocks my socks, but I have all of these things.

Leatherman Skeletool is a great item, which you should be able to get in that range. I got the upgraded Skeletool CX for under that from r/knife_swap.

If you want smaller try the Leatherman Style or Gerber Dime . The Style comes with scissor main tool or pliers.

Full size I’d suggest the Leatherman Wingman .

From left to right:

• Kershaw Leek Blackwash
  
• Olight S1R II
  
• Gerber Dime (used to be black)
  
• Rugged Rosaries WW1 Combat Rosary
  
• Rugged Rosaries 5-decade rosary jujube wood bead bracelet (currently unavailable)
  
• Some torch lighter I've had for years
  
• Travando money clip wallet
  
  and underneath it all is a plain cotton handkerchief that is very necessary when you're a sweaty person in a hot climate for most of the year and then for sinus allergies in the fall

For the same price but for greater utility, better performance, more ease of use, better safety, not looking like a weirdo or idiot, and so forth:

A cheap actual tool set if you need stuff for home or workplace to share-

https://www.amazon.com/Cartman-Orange-39-Piece-Tool-Set/dp/B00RF9J8DY/

If you want a hammer and axe for camping and home use-

https://www.amazon.com/Estwing-Riggers-Axe-Hatchet-Reduction/dp/B00DT0OSF6/

Light drywall cutting and nailing alternative-

https://www.amazon.com/Westward-6DWK4-Drywall-Hammer-Steel/dp/B004V06TOQ/

If you want the actual tool capabilities of the multitool part but not the weight-

https://www.amazon.com/SWITCHEDGE-Tools-Crimson-Pocket-Knife/dp/B0103JS8H4/

Better multitool for everything-

https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Dime-Multi-Tool-Black-30-000469/dp/B006M9NIDO/

Give Spyderco a try, you won't be disappointed. A Tenacious is just under your max budget.

Spyderco Tenacious

LINK

This one

Benchmade was out of my price range, so I went with Spyderco.

https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1509888305&sr=8-17&keywords=RJ45+crimp+tool

This is a professional quality tool, I wish I bought one a decade ago. I never run wireless anymore.

This is really expensive for a crimper, but the 'official tool' for those ends. It also slices off the passthrough bits when you crimp down. I had that crimper and the EZ ends at a previous job and the results were always positive and could even pass fluke tests super easy.

https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=pd_bxgy_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00939KFOU&pd_rd_r=C776B95H44EYJGZ5MECM&pd_rd_w=WcQxT&pd_rd_wg=WPTyb&psc=1&refRID=C776B95H44EYJGZ5MECM

FYI, a punch down tool to punch down those jacks like in the pictures attached to the OP is a completely different thing (and different skill) then what you need to crimp down the RJ45 connectors on a patch cable.

It's much easier to re-punch down the jacks then it is to crimp some patch cables, but if you would like to get into making cables, I would highly recommend getting an EZ-RJ crimper like this one on Amazon. With these (and the special connectors), you untwist the pairs and pull them through the connector and then when you crimp it will cut off the excess. Makes things MUCH easier, especially when you are just getting started.

its true, but I personally despise them with every fiber of my being.

https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_469_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VDZRX6KGVFGNYDJDCT67 tool is 72 bucks tips are 55 for 100

I have this crimp, and the matching ends and find reasons to use it :-)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_zaZ7ybBS2ZV1W

If you're dead-set on terminating with male ends instead of punching them down, try this instead: https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100010C-Connectors-Clamshell/dp/B000FI9VU2

More pricey, you need their special tool but it'll be the last one you'll buy.

Otherwise, do what everyone else said. Punchdown tool is like 10-15 online for a decent one. Jacks are cheap.

Kershaw Cryo 2. Decent multi-purpose knife. Good value. Won't beat yourself up over it if you damage it. Plus it looks sexy.

Kershaw Cyro II

Olight S15 Baton

Both end up being under $100 USD and both quality items.

Japanese Saw, I use this thing all the time and you can replace the blade when needed. https://www.amazon.com/Ryoba-Double-Razor-Hardwoods-Woodworker/dp/B00BSQU9UQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1510760504&sr=1-3&keywords=japanese+saw

It looks like a ryoba pull saw. I like the Gyuokucho Noko Giri, link below. These are great saws. I own this one and the Dozuki.

https://www.amazon.com/Ryoba-Double-Razor-Hardwoods-Woodworker/dp/B00BSQU9UQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497625925&sr=8-1&keywords=gyokucho+ryoba

I have this ryoba style https://smile.amazon.com/Ryoba-Double-Razor-Hardwoods-Woodworker/dp/B00BSQU9UQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549119655&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pull+saws+woodworking&dpPl=1&dpID=31c%2BDFCyb%2BL&ref=plSrch
I it works really well. Also unlike some of the others the teeth are set up for hardwoods. I believe that means they are slightly shorter then the softwood teeth.

I haven't looked at the HF models closely but have heard the blades are fairly thick for this style of saw so you don't get all of the benefits of a pull saw.

The Japanese saws are the best in my opinion.

Ryoba 9-1/2" Double Edge Razor Saw for Hardwoods from Japan Woodworker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BSQU9UQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-lSSzbN5D86T6

To use a hand planer, you need it to be really sharp (which that stanley one wont be) and you'd probably need a shooting board to aid you.

I would use a crosscut hand saw. A Japanese Ryoba would do pretty well, and it's not a splurge price-wise.

A straight cut isn't too hard to do free hand, but if you'd like to be precise, you can clamp a block (2x4, 4x4 cutoff) to your piece on the cut line and use the block as a guide to keep your saw straight. You could also buy a mitre box or a box and saw combo

• Field Notes Kraft Graph
  
• Justin Distressed Rodeo Wallet
  
• SOG Trident
  
• Leatherman Wave
  
• LED lenser P3
  
• Zebra f-301 compact
  
• Copenhagen Long Cut
  
• Keys
  
• Nite Ize DoohicKey
  
• Leatherman Style CS
  
• 2 Nite Ize MicroLock
  
• Kingston DataTravele 16GB
  
• Navy Blue Bandanna
  
• not in Picture
  
• G-Shock XL
  
• IPhone 6
  
• LifeProof Nuud

I'm partial to my Leatherman Brewzer - <$10.00 (I know limit was $5, but it's a solid cheap tool)

Also just saw this Nite-Ize - $5.80 that I just might have to pick up and see how it compares to the leatherman.

• Oliver Peoples OV5316SU Sunglasses
  
• Serman Brands Leather Minimalist Wallet
  
• Kent 20T Folding Pocket Comb
  
• Burt's Bees Beeswax Lip Balm
  
• Apple AirPods with ICARER Genuine Leather Case
  
• Nite Ize DoohicKey Multi Tool Key Chain
  
• Zebra F-701 Stainless Steel Retractable Pen
  
• Citizen Promaster Nighthawk
  
• Speck iPhone 8 Clear Case

I carry the Niteize Doohickey and it works great for what your describing.

Nite Ize DoohicKey Key Tool Keychain Multi-Tool, Stainless, 1-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FIX126K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BdAaBb625CY7M

There are a few things you'll need:

• An ATX/molex pin extractor - This lets you push the individual pins out from the connector so you can reuse the connector.
  
• A crimper - Unfortunately, you'll have to make new pins and that requires crimping. This is what I use.
  
• ATX terminal pins - The newly crimped pins that you'll insert into the connector.
  
• ATX connectors (optional) - If you don't feel like extracting the pins and reusing the connector, you can always just buy the connector. They're very cheap.
  
  I recommend checking out custom sleeving guides as they're essentially doing the same steps except that you're not sleeving. Here's Paul's Hardware's guide to sleeving where you can see how the pin extractor tool works (I forget at what time it happens) and pretty much the whole process of sleeving if you're interested. Here's a faithful FAQ to sleeving that can further answer your questions despite the fact that you're not sleeving.
  
  Good luck!

This is the crimper that I am using and its holding up very nice and works great.

These are what I use on the tevo and when I put the e3dv6 on the ender I'll use them there too....

I started them about 6 inches back up the wires from the hot end spaced them out so them aren't one big blob.... used different ones for different things so they can't be switched out and if for some reason a wire pulls loose it doesnt short anything... doing it I can swap out the hot end in minutes, do a PID tune and I'm off to the races.


Connectors and max current rating

Jst-sm for the fans and thermistor - 3amp
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTKD7P4/

Mini Tamiya type b for the heater - 10 amp
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XSD9JJQ/

Jst-xhp are the white connector for stepper motors - 3 amp
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTH46S7/

Dupont for the black on the main board - 3 amp
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CVYPDGS/

These for heated bed - up to 30 amps - solder only, not crimp
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H54LZN2/

Crimpers - get the right ones for the pin type in the connectors you buy, you can't use just any old crimper or wing it with these tiny pins and get a good connection that doesn't come apart when things move for hours

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1RFZZ4/
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YGLKBSK/
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OMM4YUY/


Since I'm on the subject heated bed wires - large enough to carry the current and with the silicone cover and fine internal strands flexible enough to not break with movement

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M9IXL5Q/r

i bought this one a couple of months ago:

http://www.amazon.com/tool-home-Precision-Model-Drill-Twist/dp/B010BV7190?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

In-tool-home Precision Pin Vise Model Hand Drill Set with Twist Drill Bits Set of 11

took just under three weeks to arrive. I don't use it a lot but seems to serve the purpose when I have.

Do you meen this https://www.amazon.com/AUTOTOOLHOME-Precision-Model-Drill-Twist/dp/B010BV7190

If you're happy with carbon steel, there are reasonable nakiri at €30 to €50 out there:

• http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nakiri-Kitchen-Knife-165mm-Kurouchi-Shirogami-Steel-Double-Edged-Japan-Black/262591519234
  
  
• http://www.ebay.com/itm/Japanese-Knife-Tojiro-Sushi-Chef-White-Steel-Shirogami-Black-Finished-Nakiri-F-S-/261548612811
  
  
• http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gihei-Japanese-Kitchen-Chef-Knife-White-Carbon-Steel-Black-Finish-Nakiri-Usuba-/252145118237
  
  > I don't really have whetstones nor the money to invest on something like that
  
  You can get a working whetstone for €20, maybe less. You don't need 5 x €100 stones.
  
  
• https://www.amazon.de/Japanischer-Schleifstein-Kombination-Körnung-1000/dp/B0000Y7LAS/
  
  ... or maybe a cheap fine diamond plate:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.de/Diamant-Kombi-Schleifstein-speziell-Keramikmesser-Körnung/dp/B00IG6E560/
  
  
• https://www.amazon.de/Am-Tech-Extra-Diamond-Stone-E2560/dp/B0057FDC9E/

Thank you so much for taking the time to write out all of that information. I'll try to find a cooking store around here and go ask about knives and maybe some cutting boards as well. :)

As for sharpening, do yourself a favor and throw away those auto sharpeners. They suck. They work for like 2-3 sharpenings then they don't do crap. (I'm talking about the ones with where you hold it on the counter and pull the blade through a "V" slot.)

Seriously though, go buy yourself some stones. They're not expensive and they'll last a lifetime.

I have this stone

https://www.amazon.ca/KING-1000-Grit-Combination-Waterstone/dp/B0000Y7LAS/ref=sr_1_16?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1521472898&sr=1-16&keywords=combination

And this stone

https://www.amazon.ca/Japanese-King-Knife-Sharpener-Whetstone/dp/B003Q377K4/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1521473012&sr=1-1&keywords=king+6000

They're like sandpaper. Start with the coarse stone and move your way up to the higher grits.

You don't have to be perfect when sharpening knives, but you DO have to be consistent. Your angle doesn't need to be perfect, you just need to have the SAME angle every time. I only got good at sharpening when I stopped TRYING to control the angle, and I just started trying doing the exact same motion over and over again. 15 passes on one side, then 15 on the other with the coarse stone. Eventually you'll feel a burr on the opposite side of the edge. At that point, you do 1-2 passes on the side with the burr. Then move up to the next grit. 15-20 passes here on one side, then the other, then move to the next grit. As for technique, I like the "push away" technique. Since knives have two sides, that generally means that on one side I'm pushing the knife INTO the stone, and on the other I'm pulling the knife across the stone. it doesn't matter, as long as you're consistent. (But be careful pushing the knife into the stone, you can and will cut a chunk off of the stone if you push too hard or get the angle wrong.)

Before you sharpen, fill the sink with water and let the stones sit in the water for 5 minutes. Keep them wet when you sharpen. (I usually will re-wet after 20 passes. It's less about keeping it wet and more about removing the steel/stone particles from the stone itself). (Some people like to use oil, I like to use water, it doesn't matter really.)

I will admit I had to do something like 80-100 passes (20 at a time) on EACH SIDE of my main chef's knife because it was dull as hell (because of sharpening with one of those auto sharpeners.), but in the end, it was the one to cut me :(

A couple of hints:

If you shine a light/the sun on the sharp edge of the blade, you should NOT see a bright reflection on the very sharp edge. If you see light reflecting, that means you have a flat/dull spot, and you should keep sharpening.

If you want to know if you have a decent angle or not, color the edge of your blade with permanent marker (don't worry, you can clean it off afterward with rubbing alcohol/nail polish remover (uh... be careful when you do that... that was how I got cut.)) Since the edge of your blade has ink on it, when you try to sharpen it, only the bit that you're grinding off will be shiny (since you removed that bit of ink). That way you can tell if the angle you're using is too shallow (not hitting the edge of the blade) or too steep (kinda... flattening the blade edge.) If you just do your best to match what was there (all of the ink on the edge surface is removed) you'll be fine. Again, not perfection, just consistency. Eventually you'll figure out what kind of edge you like (super sharp but not durable, or more shallow but more durable.) Also, certain steels like certain edges better. Nice steels tend to be able to hold a super sharp (shallow) edge for longer periods of time, where cheap steels will not be able to hold a super shallow edge at all, so you have to sharpen them with a steeper angle so that there is more "metal" on the edge. (With cheap steels, if you try to sharpen them super super sharp, the edge will just break off.)

Last hint. Eventually, if you use the stones enough. They'll get worn down. They will no longer be flat, and this is a problem. The way to fix it is to buy a diamond sharpening stone. Some people actually use these to sharpen knives, but I don't like them for that purpose. Now, these are more expensive than the stones themselves, but you probably won't need them for a while. Basically you just use them to flatten your stones. Just put them on top of the stone and rub back and forth. Eventually your stone will be flat and ready to sharpen again.

https://www.amazon.ca/DMT-D8C-Dia-Sharp-Continuous-Diamond/dp/B0001WP1L0/ref=sr_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1521473952&sr=1-13&keywords=diamond+stone+sharpener

Anyway, if you do choose to try to use stones. Just keep trying. You won't do well on your first knife, or your second, or your third. Sharpen your shitty knives until you can do those well, then go after your nice knives. It took me probably 2 years of using the stones (probably every 3-4 months) to get to a point where I can say "yeah, those are sharp."

Awesome! Thank you so much. This is the stone I have. I plan to practice on a cheaper knife (OXO chef's), is there any possible detriment to the stone, other than applying too much pressure? And do you feel that obtaining a 3000 grit is necessary for average kitchen duty, or is 1000 enough?

Tool Logic Credit Card Companion with Lens/Compass CC1SB - 9 Tools, Black, 2" Blade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001WOKWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kLGHAbZJW0ZBX

It's just there, can't say I've ever used it before. It was a gift from my wife years ago.

I believe its a credit card size function tool that you store in your wallet. I don't know OP's brand but this one is popular but if you're looking more at what OP has then this one looks pretty similar. I haven't tried either so I would look at the reviews before deciding to buy.

A multi tool that is the size of a credit card

Looks like OP has the Kershaw Chive. So I was mistaken, mine is a little bit longer, the Kershaw Leek. Great knives!

Kershaw. A little pricy in Canada, but you'll never need another one.

The kershaw blur has a fairly thick blade. So does the SOG flash II Tanto


That's all I thought of off the top of my head.

If you want assisted opening, Kershaw is your primary go-to knife company. Anything with "SpeedSafe" is their assisted opening mechanism. Bonus points is that SpeedSafe is legal in all 50 states (although the knife itself might not be due to length).

I would highly recommend the Kershaw Knockout. It's one hell of a nice blade with a slim profile (so it doesn't get in the way of reaching into your pockets and pulling things out), doesn't weigh much, and kicks hard when opening.

The Kershaw Shallot is still my favorite carry knife despite owning over a dozen production folders and knives that cost 3-4 times as much. It has a slight recurve in the blade, it's thin, it's an amazing slicer, doesn't weigh much, and deploys fast. It doesn't have left-hand pocket clip carry, however.

Another is the Kershaw Blur which is a bit of a beefier recurve bladed knife that is a non-flipper (deployment with thumb studs only). One of Kershaw's most popular models, after the Leek. Keep in mind that the grip-y "TracTech" inserts that the Blur has is kinda like more dense and rougher cork. It can tear up and wear away at your pant's pocket over time. Like the Shallot, it also does not have lefthanded pocket clip carry.

I've EDC'd a Spyderco Tenacious for about a year and I love it. If I had to replace it, I would easily consider another Tenacious, or a slightly smaller Persistence.

Part of me really wants a Leek but I'd also like a Kershaw Blur for the assisted opening, and if you can set aside an extra $20, you can spring for the version w/ S30V steel. All of these are within your price range.

I just added a Leatherman Micra and a Streamlight Nano to my edc to go on my keys.

For Light Carry:

• Leatherman Style PS - TSA approved or Leatherman Micra
  
  
• Fenix E12 Flashlight - I believe this is the successor to the EO5
  
  
• Zebra F-301 Pen or Fisher Bullet Space Pen - the stainless wears better in your pocket.
  
  
• Moleskin Volant Notebook
  
  
• SOG Flash I - if you can swing the extra $10 or get the cheaper pen, I HIGHLY recommend this knife as a very minimal yet practical knife. I've sort of chunked the rest and this one is with me all the time. Also very public-friendly size.
  
  

I've started carrying a Leatherman Micra and love it. I carry a yoyo everyday, so the tweezers and scissors get a lot of use. Different strokes/folks but I can't think of what I'd use small pliers for more than small scissors.

Invicta Excursion Watch

Chums Sport Wallet

UAG Galaxy S3 Case

Boker Plus Nano Knife

Leatherman Micra on Keychain

My EDC consists of:

• Corter card sleeve
  
• Corter belt (not pictured)
  
• Casio MDV106-1A with a 3 ring zulu strap from nato strap co.
  
• iPhone 5s
  
• Leatherman Micra
  
• Micron 01 black and red
  
• Kershaw 1730SS, also not pictured because I only really carry it on the weekends

• Lenovo yoga 2
  
• Steel Reveal Watch
  
• Bose headphones
  
• Oneplus one 64gb + Orange protective case (Now out of stock :( )
  
• Keyring catastrophe with a stellar USB and Mul-T-Lock key
  
  
• Leatherman Micra
  
• iclicker response tool (Think of it as a interactive powerpoint)
  
• Lenovo HDD
  
• Wireless Mouse
  
• Sandisk backup USB
  
• Xiaomi headphones
  
• Pilot Precise pen
  
• 2x Signo pens
  
• 4 spare Sanyo AAA's
  
  All in a Grid-It organizer
  
  
  
  

I prefer to cut my nails with scissor action, instead of clipping. I believe it is a cleaner cut and therefore healthier for your nails. It is also quieter. I sometimes cut my nails at work in the morning since I get to work an hour before nearly everyone else.

I've been doing that for years. I had trouble finding really good small accurate high quality scissors for this purpose. Cosmetic scissor seem good quality, but they aren't heavy duty enough for men's nails.

One day, out of necessity, I used my Leatherman Micra, while I was away from home.

http://www.leatherman.com/product/Micra

http://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-64010101K-Micra-Multi-tool/dp/B000JCN0FG



That is what I have been using since then, for over 10 years now. It is the perfect size and shape. It is very high quality, sharp, accurate and easy to use. It lasts forever. No rust or resharpening so far.

Although there's all kinds of branded equipment (from pin vises to knives to files) specifically for minis, you usually don't need to get the "official" stuff. Cheap pin vises (for drilling and pinning) can be found at any hobby shop, and my $5 set of files works splendidly.

That said, I did get the official wet pallette simply because it was much smaller than any non-branded ones and takes up less bench space. And, admittedly, I'm ok with paying for the convenience of pre-measured pallette sheets. If you wanted to try out painting with a wet palette (and you should!), you can make your own pretty easily.

You might also consider putting something over the table/desk/whatever you work on. So you don't get paint on it or accidentally cut into it with exacto knives. I just use a desk pad that I found at staples. That way I can also write notes to myself on it.

I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.

I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.

1. Using needle files and a pen knife, gently remove any spru from your miniature. You will have to be a little more careful than normal; I had one with a particularly fragile joint snap on me from an inadvertent touch, but generally they are durable. If you break any part of it, use superglue and gently brace the two parts together; Let dry over night and it should be just as strong or stronger than before.
   

• Needle Files
  
• Pen Knife
  

2. Next, fill a bowl with some warm and soapy water. Using a soft bristle tooth brush, gently clean the whole surface and rinse in warm water. You can pat dry, but I would still let the figure dry over night after cleaning. It is very important that you use a soft bristle brush; Medium or harder can scratch the surface of your miniature.
   
3. Once dry, coat lightly with a spray on primer; you'll need to get all angles. I prefer white as, with the black plastic, it is easier to see how evenly I've coated. Let dry. For me, this is over night due to my schedule, but it should be dry for painting in 2-3 hours.
   
4. At this point, you're clear to start painting. Use light coats. The thinner your coats, the more detail that will be maintained. You can use matte acrylic medium to thin the paints out. For me, this takes place over multiple evenings. However, if you find that you can switch between different parts of the miniature or between other miniatures as they dry, you can work continuously, switching whenever you need to let a coat of paint dry (5-10 minutes ish). I'll provide more thoughts on the actual painting in a response.
   

• Matte Medium
  
• Brushes ; On the last few I did, I just used cheap brushes from hobby lobby. However, this is the set I'll be trying out on the Catfolk I primed last night.
  
• Reaper Paints ; Reaper MSP is the line I prefer to use for most of my paints. For some technical paints, I'll go to citadel's line, but you can achieve the same results by getting your own base materials and mixing with your Reaper or other base line of paints.
  
• Color Pallete Design a color pallete for your project before you start!
  

5. Once you are satisfied with it's appearance and everything is dry, coat with a spray gloss enamel; give 3 or 4 coats in accordance with your products directions. For me, that's 15 minutes between coats.
   

• Glossy Enamel
  

6. (Optional) if you want to reduce the shine of the gloss enamel, follow with 1-3 coats of a matte spray enamel. This also has the advantage of being obvious when your enamel starts to wear off. If you see shiny spots on your mini, it's time to recoat.
   

• Matte Enamel
  
  
  

Give me a minute, I can link you to a comment I found explaining it in depth

EDIT: I'm just gonna paste it here. For reference, I,believe priming is coating it in a thin layer of paint to act as a base. Use black primer for darker results and white for lighter. Credit to u/pyrese

I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.

I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.

1. Using needle files and a pen knife, gently remove any spru from your miniature. You will have to be a little more careful than normal; I had one with a particularly fragile joint snap on me from an inadvertent touch, but generally they are durable. If you break any part of it, use superglue and gently brace the two parts together; Let dry over night and it should be just as strong or stronger than before.
   

• Needle Files
  
• Pen Knife
  

2. Next, fill a bowl with some warm and soapy water. Using a soft bristle tooth brush, gently clean the whole surface and rinse in warm water. You can pat dry, but I would still let the figure dry over night after cleaning. It is very important that you use a soft bristle brush; Medium or harder can scratch the surface of your miniature.
   
3. Once dry, coat lightly with a spray on primer; you'll need to get all angles. I prefer white as, with the black plastic, it is easier to see how evenly I've coated. Let dry. For me, this is over night due to my schedule, but it should be dry for painting in 2-3 hours.
   
4. At this point, you're clear to start painting. Use light coats. The thinner your coats, the more detail that will be maintained. You can use matte acrylic medium to thin the paints out. For me, this takes place over multiple evenings. However, if you find that you can switch between different parts of the miniature or between other miniatures as they dry, you can work continuously, switching whenever you need to let a coat of paint dry (5-10 minutes ish). I'll provide more thoughts on the actual painting in a response.
   

• Matte Medium
  
• Brushes ; On the last few I did, I just used cheap brushes from hobby lobby. However, this is the set I'll be trying out on the Catfolk I primed last night.
  
• Reaper Paints ; Reaper MSP is the line I prefer to use for most of my paints. For some technical paints, I'll go to citadel's line, but you can achieve the same results by getting your own base materials and mixing with your Reaper or other base line of paints.
  
• Color Pallete Design a color pallete for your project before you start!
  

5. Once you are satisfied with it's appearance and everything is dry, coat with a spray gloss enamel; give 3 or 4 coats in accordance with your products directions. For me, that's 15 minutes between coats.
   

• Glossy Enamel
  

6. (Optional) if you want to reduce the shine of the gloss enamel, follow with 1-3 coats of a matte spray enamel. This also has the advantage of being obvious when your enamel starts to wear off. If you see shiny spots on your mini, it's time to recoat.
   

• Matte Enamel
  
  
  

For what your needs are I would say you need a hand drill and a hobby knife (xacto) not files. I have used a cheap knife from my local hobby stores to slice off iconography before and it is very easy although you do need to file off some remains. As for magnitizing you want a hand drill with the right sized drill bits. As for recommendations I recently got a pack of files off amazon for cheap that I am loving.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPUKYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vcZvyb0CSA63A

A basic needle file set
and some chainsaw files in different diameters.

Most local hardware/lowes/HD etc will have these so no need to order online and wait

For the fretboard scrape the heavy gunk off with a razor blade then wipe it down with naptha. Then you can spray a little guitar honey fingerboard oil on it if you like the look of darker fingerboards. You don't necessarily have to oil it, but I think it looks nice. Boiled linseed can be an alternative, but keep in mind it's a drying oil and will stay there.      

For the nut, a tusq but is a cheap and pretty much a drop in replacement. Bone nuts can get pretty expensive, and tusq is just as good if not better. There's precut fender style nuts for like $8.

If the frets are just a little tarnished, tape off the pickups with masking tape first. Then go 0000 steel wool->Dremel felt polishing pad with jewelers rouge->metal polish with a microfiber pad, then rub everything down with a dry part of the microfiber.

If they're totally messed up and divorced, uneven, etc then you can completely do the frets or take it to a shop. Level/crown/polish them. Regardless of the route you take I would probably file down any protruding frets that poke out past the fingerboard.

Anything perfectly level with some sandpaper to level frets, long granite scraps from companies who do countertops can be super cheap/free. You'll also need a sharpie, fret rocker, and straightedge. Make sure the straightedge is actually straight, cheap rulers generally aren't.


Any flat file for protruding frets. A small needle file with a safe edge ground on for dressing the ends after bevelling. For crowning use a triangular file with the corners ground smooth.  


Bevelling and protruding frets

Fret ends

Crowning

I listed cheap options to get started. You can always buy nicer ones. Stewmac, crimson guitars, LMI, and similar sell specialized ones for a pretty big markup.

Good idea, how does this look?

X-ACTO #2 Knife With Safety Cap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V1QV7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9vr1BbPFG2HDV

I hope you're sitting down.

To add to this:

Ultrafire Cree XML T6 LED Zoomable 5 Mode Flashlight Torch Lamp Zoom (Black)

Micro Sport Cord 1.18mm X 125 Ft Small Spool Lightweight Braided Cord

4pc Medium Size / MEDICAL ALERT - FIRST AID container PILL CASE Set - Key Chain - Water Resistant

resqme The Original Keychain Car Escape Tool, Made in USA (Blue)

Zak Tool Universal Handcuff Key Ring Holder Belt Clip (Various Models)

Gerber 22-41770 Artifact Pocket Keychain Tool

Pocket Ref 4th Edition [Paperback]

As much as I love the knife you linked to from SOG, this link led me to find this little tool. I think I'm going to get that.

Perhaps a Gerber Artifact?

Small messenger bag. Really all I need is my laptop, a few pens, my trusty USB SSD drive with everything on it, and a screwdriver. The times I need more tools, I have a toolbag I can take, but that's rare.

This bad boy is my most used tool

That's sounds great for a two-legger (forgive me if I assume too much).
I'm pretty serious about my socket set though. I carry [this](Craftsman 58 PC Universal MAX AXESS Mechanics Tool Set (Inch/Metric) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D4QI7XE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WKytybJPF57EE) strapped to the back of my power chair.
And I carry these as well. Along with a Leatherman and one of [these](Stanley 66-344 4-in-1 Pocket Screwdriver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014KMDZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3PytybZ26WCBS)

Edit; unfortunately I don't reddit hard enough to know how to fix those links. Sorry.

Klein Tools 92906 ProPack 6 Apprentice Tool Set for Trade Professionals (6-Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EKONLY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Qm5EAbQVA3JFH

That’s a good deal. It has lineman pliers, diagonal cutters, needle nose, wire strippers, and flat/ Phillips screwdrivers.

Screwdriver and Nut Driver 11-in-1 Multi Tool, Cushion Grip Handle, Industrial Strength Bits Klein Tools 32500 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yp5EAbSKE4D2A

This is a good all purpose screwdriver to carry around

Klein Tools NCVT-2 Dual Range Non-Contact Voltage Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qq5EAbTTZ8GYW

This is a non contact voltage tester and it might just save you some pain/your life

Channellock 440 12-Inch Tongue and Groove Plier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xr5EAbWNKDP5C

You should probably get 2 pairs of these. It’ll help you twist on couplings and stuff

Stanley 33-725 25-Feet FatMax Tape Measure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002PV66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Xs5EAbGVWXZDV

A lot of people like these tape measures for their larger claws

Klein Tools 98002BT Bottle Opener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00093GENU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4u5EAb52FZ742

This will help for when you go home

Through the resin making process the shipped product has an oily film that makes it difficult for glue and paint to adhere to.

When in doubt. Use a pin vise.

I bought this one. You can get it cheaper if you don't want prime shipping. The smaller bits are also great for drilling out barrels.

I just picked up on Amazon a pin vise hand drill set, some flush cutters (the ones I've been using aren't flush and it's been annoying when trimming off sprue bits), and a lighted clamp magnifying class set, total was about 25 bucks.

Heres a link to an article that you might find helpful

https://mikatan.goodsmile.info/en/2016/10/03/diy-nendoroid-repairs-part-1-removing-broken-joints/

​

As for the tools you'll need, they can be found here on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010BV7190/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y27JWS3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Good luck :)

There are tons of stones out there and most of them will work for you. I would recommend starting out with a hard stone that isnt going to dish. That way you wont have to worry about flattening or regrinding the stone. Personally I would recommend this as a beginner stone that is still very high quality and inexpensive. Its an oil stone so you will need mineral oil or something similar with it. The spyderco ceramics are also great stones as they essentially never wear out.

If your set on getting waterstones I would say for the fibrox to not go much past 2k grit. The king deluxe stones are good, the shapton ha no kuromaku stones are also good and much harder making them a little easier to learn on. I would recommend against getting something like naniwa professional/chosera or shapton glass to start mainly because of the price.

The honing rod is fine I personally dont use them but thats more of a personal preference thing. I would rather use a benchstone than a honing rod. However a honing rod can help maintain your edge and quickly touch up the knife. Using a honing rod you can keep a knife sharp for quite a while before needing to sharpen it again. Which is great if you have your knives sharpened by a professional not quite as important if you do it yourself and your knives arent super expensive.

A leather strop can help quite a bit when you are first starting out to help remove burrs, and do minor touch ups between sharpenings. If you want to get really good a strop will end up being more of a crutch that lets you get away with not properly deburring the knife edge.

​

a good tutorial video https://youtu.be/2Vu6Dq00v7I

ceramic stone

spyderco medium benchstone

waterstones

king deluxe 1000 grit

king 250/1000 combo

shapton ha no kuromaku stones reccommend 320 and either 1500 or 2k for these.

​

There are also arkansas stones which are great I would suggest getting the soft arkansas stone and using that as a finishing stone.

Does your King combo stone look like this? Cause I started out with one and it is ssssllllllloooooooowwwwwwwwwwww........ Like I could spend hours on it and never set a proper bevel.

Best advice I can give you is throw the damn thing out and get something else. I went with a Shapton Pro 1k which was nice and certainly did the job but it had a chalky texture to the feedback that I didn't really like. Then I upgraded to the Chosera 1k and it has been fucking amazing. There is a reason everyone (literally everyone) who hones razors for a living uses a Chosera 1k for bevel setting, the thing is smooth and huge and heavy and cuts fast without cutting too fast and can produce an armhair-chopping edge in short order, even can remove micro-chips with a little time and effort.

I would use the King 1000 sometimes to smooth out the edge before going to the higher grits, back when I still used the Shapton Pro, but I don't even do that now that I have the Chosera and I think I sold the King combo stone. I think I warned the buyer about it being a slow cutter, or at least I hope I did lol.

https://www.amazon.com/KING-1000-Grit-Combination-Waterstone/dp/B0000Y7LAS

https://www.amazon.com/Straight-Razor-Leather-Sharpening-Barber/dp/B00S2WVWTQ

https://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D2902-1-Pound-Buffing-Compound/dp/B0000DD35C/

Get these three things, practice, and never worry about not having a hair popping edge again.

This was my first stone:
https://www.amazon.com/KING-1000-Grit-Combination-Waterstone/dp/B0000Y7LAS/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?keywords=king+stone&qid=1556580863&s=gateway&sr=8-11

Knife sharpening videos that helped me tremendously:
https://youtu.be/kFhMGJYhYpU

https://youtu.be/PXMYoOp4IZw

Welcome to a new obsession.

I use a King 250/1000 and a strop with some buffing compound.

Oh I'm so sorry but I'm not going through a wishlist with 260 items. o_O

I'm going to guess you need this. =)

Isn't this sort of thing why they pass your wallet through the x-ray machine? It's still a metal blade, it will be easily seen.

This particular wallet knife actually looks somewhat impractical. Doesn't seem like it would hold up to regular use, and it's also only a knife. I've been carrying around one of these for a while now, and it's seen a lot of use.

I keep a altiod can full of real life survial item's

In it are

Moist towelts (3 of them)

neddle and thread

2 paper clips

1 mini tooth brush (those colgate wisp that have tooth past build in)

1 breath mint

1 stick of gum

1 match book

1 muti tool

In this case i would take out the moist towlet and clean my self.

Utility Key Tool

Reusable hand warmers

Pocket chainsaw

Credit Card Companion

Survival Grenade

Charge Key (Lightning)

Charge Key (Micro-USB)

Wallet Ninja

Card Sharp

Pocket Stash

I used to carry on of these when I was in High school so I didnt have a multitool hanging off my belt.

http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Logic-CC1SB-Companion-Serrated/dp/B0001WOKWQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421669951&sr=8-2&keywords=wallet+multitools

I always have this in my wallet. Yesterday when I went through security I forgot about it. TSA spotted it in my wallet and took it.

I used to carry this multi-tool in my wallet in middle school. Never thought much of it. One day in computer class I had to use the tweezers for something, and the computers teacher saw me take it out and expressed a genuine interest in what it was. I handed it to him and he comes across the 2" knife blade. He told me I shouldn't have this, went over to my class teacher, they talked for a second. Then came back, handed it to me, and said not to bring it again. I never did. As I think back on it now, I realize if I did this today Homeland Security would've been called.

Kershaw Chive is my favorite actual pocket knife. I love the brand and their speedsafe opening. When I was a little younger and thought I needed a protection pocket knife I bought a 4.5 inch bladed Kershaw that they seem to have stopped making.

Unfortunately, to many people, that is NOT a small knife. I carry every day, and that to me is on the larger side of EDC knives. Try carrying one of these. Far less threatening to ginormous pansy-asses like those two.

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Onion-Folding-Knife-SpeedSafe/dp/B017VDSKG4

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009VC9RW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1450905422&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=kershaw+chive&dpPl=1&dpID=31I9I11oy9L&ref=plSrch

The Kershaw Chive is 1.9 ounces and is slightly cheaper and significantly smaller. The Kershaw Scallion is slightly heavier at 2.3 ounces but is also slightly longer than the Chive. If you just look up "Kershaw Speedsafe" on Amazon you'll find pages of different Kershaw (king of the budget assisted knife) assisted knives to carefully pick from.

Finally, if you really like your BM Griptilian then you might want to get a Mini Griptilian, which is just a smaller version of the same knife. You can get it for $60 on knifeworks.com. If you don't like the sheepsfoot blade that I linked you, just search for "mini griptilian" and you'll see all the designs that they offer. You get the $60 price by entering the coupon code shown under the product picture.

I have been looking at getting the Kershaw Leek

But I think it may be too large for your requirements.

The Chive looks about right though.

If you like a bit smaller, I’ve carried a Keyshaw archive for years... solid.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009VC9RW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's $45 on Amazon.

the leek is prone to that problem from what i've gathered. i might suggest you re-profile it or get a different kershaw. i'd recommend the blur. it's a bigger and more capable knife imo. check it out next trip to walmart. i think youll like it.

My favorite in 40+ years of knife collecting: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009VCA0I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NhfnDbXC4J7PM

This answer assumes 1) you want a few knives to cover different uses and 2) you can dig in the couch cushions for $3.53 or you can wait for Amazon's prices to fluctuate just a little bit. The price on the Kershaw jumped $3 just while I am typing this up...

EDC: Kershaw Blur, $54.17. I'm a little goofy, and I like the serrated tanto even though it looks like ass. I assume for most people, they'd prefer the straight blade. I've had one for a few years, and it works great. Just the right size, comfortable grippy handle, and I love the opening mechanism.

Camping knife: Condor Tool and Knife Bushlore 4.375-Inch Drop Point Blade, $36.41. The QA on fit and finish is apparently an issue with this company, but I didn't notice any problem on mine. It's not going to win a beauty competition, but its a hard worker. One of the comments on Amazon says it's the AK-47 of the knife world. I'm inclined to agree.

Inconspicuous Folder: Opinel #8, $12.95. I don't actually own one of these, so caveat emptor, but they come highly recommended by the hive mind. It's a classy looking folder that you could carry around in your suit's jacket pocket or your briefcase.

DODOcase Durables Wallet for iPhone - Just started carrying this a few weeks ago when I found out my SwitchEasy Tone case was still allowing grit in and scratching the back of my phone. So far so good.

Fisher Space Bullet Pen - Always heard good things about this pen, it was smaller than I expected but that ended up being a good thing. Very happy with it.

Leatherman Micra - Perfect size for a keyring multitool, I can't deal with a ton of bulk in my pockets and this gets the job done. I'm considering modding some of my house keys on to it soon.

Standard VW keyring with keys, the USB dongle is a password key for my work laptop, nothing special.

I use a Leatherman Wingman as my daily carry, and I've used it everyday since I bought it. Amazon has it and several other models on sale.


https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Skeletool-Multi-Tool-Stainless-Steel/dp/B000XU9NXW/

https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Wingman-Multi-Tool-Stainless-Steel/dp/B005DI0XM4/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JCN0FG/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001T82R4Y/

these are the ones I use for reference

I don't know what to tell you with specifics for Spain, but I can give you some general info that may or may not be helpful to you.

First off, there's this link in the sidebar. It'll give you a bunch of options.

Your hobby knife and mouldline remover will be the same thing. The handles all function the same way. However, I'd recommend picking up some kind of hobby knife set so you get a variety of blade shapes to try and multiple handles to use. #11 blades are the standard, and I prefer X-acto brand, but your mileage may vary. Some larger blade sizes won't fit into smaller handles. Buy in bulk to save money. You can remove mouldlines with the back of a blade, rather than a separate tool.

Any kind of cheap and well-reviewed wax tool / clay tool / dental tool set will work for scupting. Same deal with needle file sets. And with your pin vise. The drill bits will break (for any set), though, and bits can be problematic to replace if you're not sure of exact sizing.

I used a glue stick to cover the box with paper and drew out the dimensions of the meter. After that I drilled holes to cut out most of the area and finished squaring off the hole with small hobby files, like the ones in the FAQ. These files: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6655-Needle-File-10-Piece/dp/B000NPUKYS/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1416093199&sr=1-2&keywords=tekton+files

That file? Not very well, no. You need one where the file pattern is present on the end of the file like the far-end one here. This means that you can get right in to the cap to smoothen it off!

I used a pair of wire cutters similar to these to cut the rest of the cap away to leave just the stem.

If you're LightningXI, I've just messaged you!

A cheap set works fine for plastic. Something with a grip like these should do.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6655-Needle-File-10-Piece/dp/B000NPUKYS/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1502283785&sr=1-4&keywords=needle+files

Here's a big fat messy shopping list I made for someone a while ago. You might find it useful too.

http://www.amazon.com/Quickshade-Ink-Warpaints-Army-Painter/dp/B00HC8D80W
Amazon.com: Quickshade Ink Set Warpaints Army Painter

http://www.amazon.com/Pacer-Technology-Zap-Zap-Adhesives/dp/B00SXJJ2QI
Amazon.com: Pacer Technology (Zap) Pacer Technology (Zap) Zap-A-Gap Adhesives, 1 oz

http://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0009RRT9Y
Amazon.com : General Pencil Company The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver 2.5 0z. : Brush Soap

http://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Wargame-Starter-Paint/dp/B01BJ55UDQ
Buy Army Painter Wargame Starter Paint Set - PLUS Promo Undead figure

http://www.amazon.com/280715-American-Accents-Primer-12-Ounce/dp/B00KZ6LLZW?
Buy Rust Oleum 280715 American Accents Ultra Cover 2X Spray Paint, White Primer, 12-Ounce

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6655-Needle-File-10-Piece/dp/B000NPUKYS?
TEKTON 6655 Needle File Set, 10-Piece

http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X3311-Precision-Knife-Blades/dp/B0000DD1N4?
Buy Xacto X3311 N0. 1 Precision Knife With 5 No. 11 Blades

http://www.amazon.com/Most-Wanted-Wargamer-Set/dp/B007H4YR8S
Amazon.com: 1 X Most Wanted Wargamer Brush Set

http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI
Xuron 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter: Wire Cutters

http://www.amazon.com/Milliput-Standard-2-Part-Hardening-Yellow/dp/B011BO9R5W
Amazon.com: 2 X Milliput Standard 2-Part Self Hardening Putty, Yellow/Grey

Edit: Of, and I used this guide for making my Thinner. http://www.reapermini.com/Thecraft/15 But I'm going to experiment more, because this is not perfect.

In addition to whats listed here:

Self Healing Cutting Pad

Roll of paper towels

Exacto Knife with spare blades

Mini Files

Pin Vise (aka Mini Drill)

nice!

I use jewelers files for the majority of my cleanup...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPUKYS/

What you need:

X-acto Knife: https://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-2-Knife-Safety-Cap/dp/B000V1QV7O/ref=asc_df_B000V1QV7O/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167119535166&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3576300261824586112&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9018839&hvtargid=aud-799728744414:pla-308484349331&psc=1

Chang of knife blades #11. You don't ever want to cut with a dull blade: https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/H-998B/Utility-Knives-and-Cutters/11-Replacement-Blades-for-H-998-X-Acto-Knife-Package-of-15?pricode=WA9175&gadtype=pla&id=H-998B&gclid=CjwKCAjw7uPqBRBlEiwAYDsr18MFtut5s8DKoa1EPpCHKfGuwUmYP0EN4khc-4M-UvalEfAyX71KMBoC-k4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

A cutting mat: https://www.hobbylobby.com/Fabric-Sewing/Sewing-Quilting-Notions/Cutting-Tools-Mats/Double-Sided-Self-Healing-Cutting-Mat---9%22-x-12%22/p/80665711

Glue. This glue, don't settle for anything less: https://brokenpaintbrush.com/plastic-glue/

Hobby Clippers to remove pieces from the sprue: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=asc_df_B00FZPDG1K/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198070022856&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13952833326321162249&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9053103&hvtargid=aud-799728744414:pla-382997837730&psc=1

Probably an Xacto Knife.

an x-acto knife works wonders when trying to cut rounded edges

I printed the giraffe on two sheets of 11x17" paper and taped them together (as seen in some of the other pictures for keeping track of pieces).

I then used a knife (similar to this one) to carefully cut out the triangles and leave the gaps... I messed up a few times and had to tape the map together.

I use a small x-acto blade to sharpen pencils. Like this

Just hold it over a trash can and shave away.

http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-74016-Basic-Tool-Set/dp/B000BMYWXI/

This is the only basic tool set I know of.

That said, I would recommend getting a nice spruce cutter:
http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-2175ET-Professional-Sprue-Cutter/dp/B001TMZ7QA/

X-acto knifes are essential, such as the #2 large blade which is probably the most essential tool you will need.
http://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-Knife-Cap-Silver-X3602/dp/B000V1QV7O/

Other miscellaneous tools you should get: Q-tips, fine and regular for cleaning tools, weathering with pigments, etc. Fine-tipped tweezers are also very useful. I recommend using Tamiya's extra thin cement, as well as regular cyanoadhesives for painted parts on your model. You will also definitely want some sanding tools, I recommend going to the Dollar Tree or w/e and getting a bunch of medium and fine nail filing sticks. They are cheap and work excellent on models. Tamiya also makes a line of very fine grit sandpaper (1,000, 1,500, 2,000, 2500, etc.) that can make a nice polished surface, as well as sand down thick paint.

Correct. I just did this in a 1x slot for an actual card and it worked great. Buy an x-acto knife. I bought this one on amazon and it works great! Took about 2 minutes to cut the back tab off...

I've heard great things about the gerber artifact

https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Artifact-Keychain-Tool-22-41770/dp/B001349MD8

I basically looked for something small that i won't notice in my pocket. I chose the Gerber Artifact over the Shard because I liked the extra blade on the Artifact.

Cheaper on Amazon.

Several people have suggested the Gerber Shard, but I would suggest also looking at the Artifact. It's the Shard with a tiny blade. It's perfect for opening packages.

Kershaw Ken Onion Blur as well as a Gerber Artifact.

I was just out with my family bowling, celebrating my birthday early before i go back to school tomorrow :)

[<$5 item] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014KMDZ0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=ET9F1H0BMZEE&coliid=I1R49O7XJF8KQ3&psc=1)

Moleskien or Write in the Rain style Notebook with these things clipped to it:

• Seven Year Pen
  
• Stanley Pocket Screwdriver
  
• Streamlight Pen Light
  
  So, that's my little comp repair kit, Light + Screwdriver fixed most things I need it to and pen and paper are to take notes and such.

The skeletool works well. Stanley has an equivalent, which I edc. Stanley 66-344 4-in-1 Pocket Screwdriver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014KMDZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MtX6CbNHGT4DH

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014KMDZ0 Greatest thing ever.

First off, many of these things are intentionally cheap, because I do tend to break and/or lose things, so... Here goes.
All have Amazon links, because that was what was easiest.


Jewelry:

• Elder Scrolls Imperial symbol arrowhead necklace - I made this from scrap a while ago for a basic metal-arts class.
  
  
• Kris knife necklace - Got this at a Renaissance Fest last year, and I also like wearing it.
  
  
• UP by Jawbone (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A17IAO0) - Really great sleep tracker, plug-and-sync
  
• Fitbit Flex (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BGO0Q9O) - The de-facto fitness tracker, wireless sync
  
  
• Pebble watch (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BKEQBI0) - Simple smartwatch
  
  
  Right front pocket:
  
  
• Frame-lock box cutter (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016KHW2W) - Was using a frame-lock knife, to open boxes. Replaced it with this, been happy since.
  
  
• Precise V5 RT (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E6A9M8) - My favorite ball-point pen. Looking forward to the arrival of a Lamy Al-Star fountain pen.
  
  
• Zebra M301 0.5mm (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BLC7FG) - Great intro engineering pencils.
  
  
• Galaxy S5
  
  
• Chapstick
  
  
• Pentel plastic eraser (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q4HQVU) - For the larger-than-one-character mistakes.
  
  
  Left front pocket:
  
  
• 4-in-1 screwdriver (similar to http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014KMDZ0) - Thin profile screwdriver. Awesome. Clips away in a corner and you can forget about it until you need it.
  
  
• Streamlight MicroStream (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00143JZ08) - Tiny little flashlight, amazing little clip. Clip it in a corner and forget it until you need it.
  
  
• Mighty Wallet (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036FN60W) - I keep it relatively thin in contents, and it's amazingly thin by itself.
  
  
• Sennheiser CX300IIs (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EZYMF4) - Some of the best little cheap earbuds. I have over-the-ears for desk-work, but these can go with me easily.
  
  
• Yubikey Neo (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LX8KZZ8) - For my 2FA needs, both on the phone and PC. I use it with LastPass.
  
  
• Spare AAA Battery
  
  
• 12" baton (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHDLF8E) - For self defense, since I stopped carrying a knife, and it's more actually useful for defense than my old knife was anyway.
  
  
  Wallet highlights:
  
  
• Band-aids - I chew my cuticles and pick at scabs. Bad habit. Nice to have these around.
  
  
• Bottle opener - Got this as swag from a startup I used to work for.
  
• Sewing kit - For emergency mending
  
  
• Guitar picks (I like http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002D0CGC)
  
  
• Safety pins
  
  
• Handcuff key
  
  
• Handcuff shim - Nice when handcuffs aren't double-locked; sometimes easier to manipulate than the keys.
  
  
  Left back pocket:
  
  
• Field Notes graph-ruled notebook (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006CQT2KU) - reasonably durable, cheap notebooks.
  
  
  Not shown:
  
  
• Keysmart Extended key holder (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JXQQNC6) - Nice to keep my work keys from jangling around
  
  
• Car keys

pay attention in class!

http://amzn.com/B0014KMDZ0

It's a pocket screwdriver that would be perfect for leaving in a drawer in the kitchen or in the glove box of the car :)

Thanks for the contest!

EDIT Bah! Well, it use to be an add on item, I guess it's not anymore :/

So how about this cool mini jelly bean storage bin that comes with jelly beans! It just looks awesome!
http://amzn.com/B005OB4XMQ

This guy is in all of my bags. I also carry a North Face Surge 2, it's pretty solid, has a lot of pockets, the laptop pouch is lined so my device never gets scratched up. I have some velcro cable ties that have been very useful at times, but I also go into a lot of rack rooms still.

I agree with the comfy shoes, and I also carry some hand sani and wipes.

Buy this screwdriver immediately. A friend of mine gave me one when I bought my house and I use it religiously. Especially when it is something small like this and I don't feel like getting out my drill and drill bits. It is by far my favorite and most used tool as a home owner.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Industrial-Klein-Tools-32500/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536541144&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=klein+6+in+1+screwdriver&psc=1

Linesman

I have both of these Klein diagonal cutters
Angled
Straight

Needle Nose

11 in 1

Strippers

Too lazy to do the rest but I’m sure you could figure it out lol

A Klein 11-in-1. I use this more than any other tool. It's fantastic.

Or you could be cool like me.

Get good wrenches, socket wrenches and sockets because these are what you will be using the vast majority of the time. Make sure you get a set of short AND deep sockets too. I might honestly get deep socket first if you have to pick. Also get a 3/4" torque wrench and don't get the harbor freight ones of those. Amazon has good options here. If you spent all of your money on the above items and then added other stuff later you'd be well served. Buying a big kit seems attractive but really putting your money where you will use it the most is a better long term plan. Gearwrench makes good ratcheting wrenches for the price if you want that, but if you aren't willing to spend at least that on wrenches amount get non-ratcheting wrenches instead. Also this thing is one of the handiest tools I own. It's very well built and a very clever design.

Harbor freight does make some OK stuff but it's better to buy less critical things there. I have a set of allen wrenches that have been fine, and their impact sockets are actually pretty good, but you probably won't have an impact for awhile (which is good tbh).

How small?

Spyderco Bug SS

I have a spyderco bug on my car keys. And a christy slide knife on my truck keys.

• Phone: HTC EVO 4G LTE
  
• Watch: Seiko 5
  
• Knife: Rick Hinderer XM-18 3.5"
  
• Lighter: Zippo in Street Chrome
  
• Flashlight: Foursevens Preon 1
  
• Wallet: Saddleback Leather ID in Dark Coffee Brown
  
• Keychain: Car/House keys, Leatherman Carabiner, Spyderco Bug

Bug

> I'm too lazy to build a kit

Easy peasy. Just get a SOL kit for the small items. Then I would add a cheap sleeping bag and maybe a knife and Bic lighter and some bottled water. Done, for about $10 under OP's kit and you've got better quality stuff.

If you wanna get fancy, you could use the $10 to waterproof the bottom half of the sleeping bag to protect it from the damp ground. Then the Heatsheet can be your shelter.

I find there is one exception to the rule with knifes. The swedish Mora kniv is cheap and wickedly sharp. We have one in our boat which is in the sea for a bit over 5 years now and is still going good.

G-Shock GX-56BB Blackout Series Watches - Black / One Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GR7MF4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_jeGdRkXA4HHJ2

Silicone Wedding Ring For Men By ROQ Affordable Silicone Rubber Band, Black - Size 9 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VV7QNJR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WyhEAb9SSAYS9

Ruger LCP (carried if not in hospital)

Smith & Wesson K frame 38 Special vehicle EDC (not pictured)

BangTi Titanium Quick Release Keychain Set Super Durable (45mm+32mm Ti Keyring) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0197PL5AW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_nUCqrg1Tvd2hC

Recut small truck key for 2001 GMC Yukon XL

Maratac copper AAA light https://countycomm.com/products/copper-maratac-aaa-flashlight-rev-3

GUS Pill capsule GUS Mini Pill Fob, Made in USA, Stainless Steel Keychain Pill Holder, Emergency Aspirin Holder, Compact Design https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MY9JUME/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bEhEAbYAPF3BX

House key

Gerber Dime Multi-Tool, Black [30-000469] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006M9NIDO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_gvDoYJLF2Mhvl
(If traveling Gerber Dime Multi-Tool Travel, Bladeless [31-002777] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TBF5JC4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_SkE1gAGkchC9B)

DIY keychain pen http://www.instructables.com/id/Mini-BIC-Keychain-Pen/?amp_page=true

Spyderco Native Lightweight plain edge

Old monogrammed money clip

Chapstick

Multitool!

(jetzt auch ohne URL-Shortener - bearbeiten wär' einfacher gewesen)

Great! That's super helpful. Looks like as far as knives go, your best bet is to stick with knives that don't lock OR require two hands to open. Since you're a minor I'd abide by both actually, and stick to a two-hand open knife without a blade lock. Fortunately, that's fairly common on multitools that are great for EDC.

My favorite small multitool is the Leatherman Squirt PS4. A more budget-friendly alternative would be a Gerber Dime. Each of these are a fantastic EDC multitool. The Leatherman is especially capable. I use mine all the time. If those won't work for you, you can't go wrong with a Victorinox Swiss army knife and I think they're availible pretty much everywhere.

As far as a flashlight goes, I suggest one that's USB Rechargeable. That makes it really easy to recharge and always have plenty of battery. The most EDC frieldly USB rechargeable light I know of is the Streamlight Microstream USB.

I don't know if those are availible in Germany or what they cost over there, but that should give you some ideas.

Here are some things to look at.

Nitecore Tube 45 Lumens Blue USB Rechargeable Key Chain Flashlight with Lumen Tactical Keychain Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OY9TH16/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_t3pOub10WXEXQ

Nite Ize MLSA-M2-R7 Micro Light STS, Transparent Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BKVQ0NY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_.3pOub0NKPHCM

Tom Anderson TA-TP2BK Tactical Pen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JVVL0E/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_K5pOub08RTQ6Z

Gerber 30-000469 Dime Micro Tool, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006M9NIDO/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Z6pOub17X6032

Leatherman 831426 Wingman Multi-Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DI0XM4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_u8pOub102JY6T

Vivis™ Knight V1 6500mAh Slim USB Portable Charger External B... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LIYKGT2/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_u-pOub1Z4FX6W

Kershaw 8700 Shuffle Folding Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AU6NHVI/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_K.pOub17N93NB

Kershaw 1555TI Cryo SpeedSafe Folding Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0074FI28Q/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_fcqOub1Q7VBJX

I came back from backpacking through Greece, Bulgaria and Turkey (6 weeks) at the end of July/beginning of June-- Osprey 70 Pack, was my main, and their Daylite pack for lots of smaller trips where I would leave my main pack. This is something like my fifth backpacking trip but this one was more beach and hiking intense so my gear was tailored to it. I also needed to invest in a new pack, which is why I got the Osprey 70 (on sale!)

My pack was much bigger than I needed (I knew that from the onset having experience backpacking for several months already) but I enjoy the idea of having extra space if I needed it. Seriously, scope a pack out for a few weeks/months and look for sales, they will eventually come and you can snag something half off at least.

Basically a weeks worth of shirts, socks and underwear -- I have travel soap and a REI clothesline that I can use to wash anything I need. A pair of chinos and either dark jeans/chinos -- and a pair of shorts or two. A tank-top/swimsuit should be on your list, as well as flip flops.

For shoes, this trip I was mostly hiking so I took some hiking shoes (not boots because I still had times when I wouldn't be hiking), some thin converse and my flip flops. More than adequate for what I needed. Also, either a microfiber quick-dry towel or a cheap beach towel you can pick up most places.

THE BEST THING I CAN RECOMMEND (in addition to rolling clothes) is getting some stuff sacks to keep things organized! If you prefer cubes they make those too which are easier to transition into rolling shirts, and are easier to fit into traditional suit cases.

For the love of gaybros, get yourself a multitool right now if you don't have one. Something small that is easy to fly with, and has exactly what you need. I used to have a Victorinox Swiss Army Knife that I would use, but I recently got a Gerber Dime which I absolutely love. I spent a while in REI picking a new one out, and you know what... this was the most comfortable one for me to use; its tiny but folds out to a good size, and felt sturdier than some of the (much more) expensive ones. No Regrets with Gerber gear.

If you travel to cold climates sweaters (I got passed down a cashmere sweater by my dad that is unassuming and keeps me really warm, but has the benefit of being incredibly light and thin), I'd pack a sweater, a light jacket thats decently water proof, and an outer shell/completely waterproof/wind jacket. I have patagonia gear for that which is incredibly lightweight and amazing. They also make up 90% of my daily rain gear when It rains, so investing in some good stuff isn't just for trips.
Lightweight bag/rain cover is pretty good since I was planning on being outside a lot, but if you're going to be in hostels and so on -- you might not need one.

Go with the absolute tiniest toiletry kit you can. and get a small first aid kit. Seriously, you never know what will happen. Chap stick, bandaids, a small tube of moisturizer because traveling can make your skin go crazy, tylenol/pain relief.

Wierd, well here it is again:

Left pocket:

• naoLoop Pen (contents top to bottom, front to back)
  
• Fisher Space Pen Bullet with clip
  
• ATM card
  
• tri-folded cash roll
  
• drivers license
  
• Midori Memorandum Card
  
• spare phone battery
  
  
• cable lock key ring
  
• pill case
  
• house key
  
• Gerber Shard (optional swap [Gerber Dime]
  (http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-30-000469-Dime-Mirco-Black/dp/B006M9NIDO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376866627&sr=8-1&keywords=gerber+dime))
  
• motorcycle key
  
• (optional add Sandisk Facet)
  
  Right pocket:
  
  
• ThL W200
  
  (apologies for the blurry photo)

May I suggest the Gerber Dime? I have both this one and the Squirt PS4, and I keep coming back to the Dime. The clamshell opener, tweezers and superior bottle opener have won me over.

http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-30-000469-Dime-Multi-Tool/dp/B006M9NIDO

The List:

Hydroflask

Dell Precision 5510

Jaybird X2

Rayban RB3136 Caravan

Book at the Moment

Apple iPhone 6s

Spyderco Tenacious

Big Design Solid Titanium Pen

Yes I did, Amazon.ca to be exact. I went back to look at the amazon page and the seller is Spyderco.

Well depends how much you want to spend. I use this one everyday at work. I love it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007CK1MNU?pc_redir=1404742308&robot_redir=1

If you're getting a crimper, I highly recommend the Platinum tools ez rj-45 crimper and ez rj-45 connectors. This has changed my cabling making game.


crimprer

cat 5e connectors


[strain relief, optional but look prettt] ( http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034B3KYU/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_BLIrtb16NPMC2)



Platinum tool jacket stripper

Practice, practice, practice. Or more fool proof gear like these connectors and this crimper.

Second to getting the platinum tools crimp tool those are great, would also suggest you get the pull through connector ends very easy to use and you can recheck your colour code before your final crimp

https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU?crid=1BPQWP4GICET8&keywords=platinum+tools+ez-rj45&qid=1536422635&sprefix=platinum+too&sr=8-3&ref=mp_s_a_1_3

https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100003B-Connector-100-Pack/dp/B00DNKM6G0?crid=2AU8RW0EF1N7I&keywords=cat+5+ez+connectors&pd_rd_i=B00DNKM6G0&pd_rd_r=62b219cf-f59b-49ad-9e31-5cbbb26e8c5b&pd_rd_w=PkwH3&pd_rd_wg=1PVJk&pf_rd_i=cat%2B5%2Bez%2Bconnectors&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=0b7c5556-653c-43db-a261-6db082f2f29f&pf_rd_r=FNCCV7R79W4GZZ8MGXD8&pf_rd_s=loom-mobile-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=9701&qid=1536422911&sprefix=cat+5+ez&ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp

To each their own but I love using these much easier then any other type I have tried.

http://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100010C-Connectors-Clamshell/dp/B000FI9VU2

http://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU/

These and this crimper.

I will never go back to regular tips. EZRJ-45 all the way. It says Clamshell but they are not, they're single piece tips.

Platinum tools EZ RJ45 Eveything else is a pain in the ass.
https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00939KFOU&pd_rd_r=GYM8D6TQ33NZV9N4VDZT&pd_rd_w=aZQJ0&pd_rd_wg=RBSiX&psc=1&refRID=GYM8D6TQ33NZV9N4VDZT

Connectors
https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100010C-Connectors-Clamshell/dp/B000FI9VU2

This is the voltage detector pen that I was telling you about, /u/achstuff:

​

Klein Tools NCVT-2 Dual Range Tester, Non Contact Tester for Standard and Low Voltage with 3-m Drop Protection

​

These are the RJ-45 Ethernet jacks that I use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079K7XMGQ/

​

This is the crimper that I use (the wires pass through the jacks and then this cuts them)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00939KFOU/

​

And this is the tester that I use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQH4XPW/

​

I have some other tools which I can list, but this the base set that you'd want to use to get rolling. The nice part about these particular jacks is that their bin's outside label has the diagram for the T568B standard (which you'll want to use (assuming you're crimping both sides of the cable) unless you're trying to match T568A)

So being commo I know some good gifts for us nerds. I know you are going to spend some time making cables, so check this shit out RJ-45's that let you pull the wires though the RJ45. Well now that you got that, might as well buy the crimper with a cutting edge designed for those RJ-45's. I keep the Crimpers in a old PRC-127 radio pouch for easy attachment to my gear if needed too.

If you wanna feel like a cool guy with a gerber, but also need to run some cables? Well we got the Gerber Cable Dawg. Great thing about this thing is it has MAN's for you to get that supply guy who you have been nice too order them and comes with a MOLLE pouch to attach to your gear.

• UCP: 5110-01-598-2253
  
• Coyote Brown: 5110-01-598-2254
  
• MultiCam: 5110-01-598-2248

I'll bite. In my pockets:

• Koyono Slimmy wallet
  
• Kershaw Cryo II
  
• Generic eBay key clip
  
• iPhone
  
  Add the crap in my bag:
  
  
• Chrome Citizen (Citizen Kale color)
  
• Leatherman Wingman
  
• Mini Cree LED flashlight
  
• Field Notes
  
• 3x5 Moleskine
  
• Plaisir Platinum fountain pen

This has come in handy more than a few times...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0041FIR1E/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1416195164&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

And my everyday carry Kershaw knife.......http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AU6NWP4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1416195515&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Off the job...... http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-98002BT-Bottle-Opener/dp/B00093GENU

Kershaw Cryo 2 https://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Knives-1556TI-Pocket-Knife/dp/B00AU6NWP4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497505790&sr=8-1&keywords=cryo+2 the kershaw cryo and Ontario rat are pretty much the two higest regarded budget knives in their price category but the cryo has more of what your looking for.

Cancel the order and order this.

https://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Knives-1556TI-Pocket-Knife/dp/B00AU6NWP4

Best beater knife i've ever owned. Bet it's not much more expensive either. A quick measure here at my desk says it's only about 2cm shorter when open.

Kershaw cryo ii

Or

Spyderco tenacious

And a sharpener:

Smiths tri stone

Or

Lansky 5 stone system

Because a knife ain't shit if you can't sharpen it.

Crkt does makes a nice knife. If you're interested, this is what I carry, I highly recommend it. If you check out my post history, I made a little mini review of it a couple days ago.

I would recommend a Spyderco Tenacious I have one, and it is probably the most sturdy folder I have. If that is a little big, you could always go with the Ambitious for less length. Finally, if you want to go still smaller, a Kershaw Cryo 2 may fit the bill. But I only have personal experience with the Tenacious.

Right now on amazon you can get a Cryo2 for $30.

Your price range is pretty limited. Fixed knives are ideal for hiking not so much for a casual EDC.

Have you looked at the [Cryo 2 by Kershaw]( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d /B00AU6NWP4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1395338365&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40)? It's a fun knife, good for people with big paws and it's relatively cheap. (Not to be confused with the first Cryo, which is a smaller version of the 2)

Edit..I have huge paws, and happen to have a Cryo2 in my pocket for reference.
http://i.imgur.com/oVmlp09.jpg

They are $33 on amazon.

Been here lurking for a while and finally decided to post my EDC. Since there's been some discussion lately as to where people carry their EDC that is how my list below is broken down. Let me know if you have any additional questions.

Head

• Seahawks Superbowl Champions Hat
  
  Neck
  
  
• Seahawks lanyard with work ID, keycard, desk keys
  
  Left Wrist
  
  
• Suunto Vector in Military Foliage Green
  
  Front Left Pocket
  
  
• EZGO Slim
  
• KOBALT Multitool
  
• HTC One with White Otter Box Commuter Case
  
• Olight S15 Baton
  
  Front Right Pocket
  
  
• Carabiner with 4x Nite Ize S-Biners Size 0, Gerber Shard and KeySmart Standard Size
  
• Gerber Impromptu
  
• Kershaw Cryo 2
  
  Back Left Pocket or In-Hand
  
  
• Rite in the Rain Notebook
  
• Rite in the Rain Notebook Cover
  
  For those interested in the EZGO and KeySmart my opinions are as follows.
  
  I like the EZGOs form-factor, but after owning it for a while it doesn't 'stretch' at all for what's in there. I have two credit cards, ID, insurance and a punch card in mine and it's like pulling teeth to get anything out of it. Also, since it's made to fit cards, anything bigger than that can't be accommodated. As a result I have my CPL, vehicle insurance and KOBALT tool rubber-banded to the thing. I've been eyeing the Flipside 3X as a replacement, but their shipping is around $7 which is over 10% the cost of the wallet... hence my apprehension in buying one.
  
  As for the KeySmart, I've had it a couple of days and so far I dig it but with a couple of caveats. They include two keyblanks for Schlage-style keys. I took one of them to Lowe's to have it cut and there was an issue with the blank, as a result their machine could not provide an accurate copy. I purchased a key from Lowe's and they made it without issue. Not sure what kind of weird science is up with the blanks they included, but I would be leery of buying their 'lightweight' and colored blanks as you may have similar results. My second issue may be somewhat nitpicky, but it's next to impossible to open the door with one hand anymore. Hands full of groceries or mail? Well, you better plan ahead on getting your key flipped out prior to getting to the door, other wise you'll be settin' that shit down.
  
  Would I buy the EZGO Slim again? No. Would I buy the KeySmart again? Yes.

So there are two types of japanese pull saws. The dozuki, like you linked, is for finer items such as dovetails and such. The second type is the ryoba. These are 2 sided saws, one is filed for rip and one for crosscut which comes in handy. This is the type that you would more likely need if you aren't strictly just trying to cut dovetails/jointery. You could definitely use it to section up a piece of ply, however I will warn you that any hand saw is going to take you a long while section up sheet goods of any kind, especially something like ply with its interchanging grains.

Definitely buy tools based on the project(s) you have to do, but I think a good start would include:

Hand planer (Vintage Stanley Bailey is ideal)

A few chisels (Narex are a good option if you're on a budget)

Combination Square

Marking Knife (Stanley makes one that Paul Sellers recommends: Amazon)

Marking/Mortising Gauge(s): I think Crown is the only company making reliable ones with pins vs. the more common cutting disc.

Saw: I got this to start, its sharp as all heck, and has a crosscut and rip edge Japanese Ryoba

Woodworking with power tools revolves around the table saw. If you go that path, get the best one you possibly can. But used so your money goes father.

Woodworking with hand tools needs a few things:

• A saw. A $30 Japanese saw with crosscut blade on one side and rip cut on the other is a great way to start if you aren't already an experienced sawyer. If you want to buy local, don't buy the crappy ones from Home Depot or Lowe's. You can get a good one from Woodcraft.
  
• Chisels. Even the $10 six pack of chisels from Harbor Freight will work great. You have to sharpen a little more often, but it's much easier to get a keen edge.
  
• A pounder. This can be a rubber mallet, a nylon mallet, or a stick. My first project was making a wooden mallet. I used a rubber mallet I already owned while making it.
  
• A smoother. The best option is a bench plane (a used #4 Stanley, Record, or other pre-WWII plane is ideal; you can get fully restored planes on eBay for $75-90; you can buy a new Wood River at Woodcraft for under $150; or you can restore one (only do this if that process interests you). Stay away from new planes under $100). A secondary option is sandpaper. You will never match a plane's finish with sandpaper (literally glass-like), and some tasks, like stock removal, will be much more difficult or even impossible, but it is pretty cheap to get started.
  
• A sharpener. On the cheap, you can use the "Scary Sharp" system using sandpaper and some thick glass to get started (I use a glass shelf I bought at Home Depot when I want to sharpen with sandpaper). For more money up front but less over time, you can use whetstones (water or oil) or diamond plates (I have a cheap $3 eBay-special 150 and 400 grit diamond plates to flatten my water stones and for major material removal, and I have two two-sided waterstones with 400/1000 and 4000/8000 grit for most sharpening). A $15 honing guide can make things much easier if you have coordination like me, but you probably want to spend a few minutes tweaking it to get best results.
  
• Some marking/measuring tools. A marking gauge, a combination square (you will want to check and, if necessary, adjust it), a marking knife (a small pocket knife or utility knife works), and, maybe, a small tape measure. The tape measure gets used the least; most measurements are relative measurements made using the marking gauge.
  
  I'm a big believer in starting small and cheap and working my way up. With a few hand tools, you can get started for under $200 and have everything you need to make good quality stuff. The skills you learn with those tools will transfer to every project in the future, no matter how big. Fine joinery is the same, whether the boards are cut with a hand saw or a table saw, and you will never learn to read wood with a power jointer, planer and table saw like you will with a handsaw and bench plane.
  
  As you reach competency with these tools, you can decide how you want to expand your tools to achieve more. That may be more hand tools like a dovetail saw, additional planes, cabinet scrapers, etc, or it may be power tools with a table saw, band saw, dust collector, etc. Or it may be somewhere in the middle.
  
  Personally, I do this for relaxation, so a quiet shop and a face free of respirators and face shields is much better to me. Since I am in no hurry to finish projects, I use primarily hands tools (I have a few power tools from a previous life that I'll pull out on very rare occasions. I think often about selling them).
  
  If getting stuff done drives you, though, power tools are a great way to do that. It changes woodworking a little because it becomes a skill of setting machines up correctly (not a trivial skill!) to get the correct cut.
  
  The Wood Whisperer, who coined the phrase and, literally, wrote the book, Hybrid Woodworking, does a pretty good job blending hand and power tools. If I cared more about getting things done (and had the space and money to devote to it), that would be the path I would follow.

Ryoba 9-1/2" Double Edge Razor Saw for Hardwoods from Japan Woodworker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BSQU9UQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Gyokucho 770-3500 Razor Dozuki Saw with Blade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CEF5HC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_h4ZQAb8657W4D

Sorry for the crappy links, I'm on mobile. These are the two I purchased. They are fine for me!

I bought my Japanese saw from Amazon for less than $30

Ryoba 9-1/2" Double Edge Razor Saw for Hardwoods from Japan Woodworker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BSQU9UQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HpPUzbW5HV6CF

Yep it was this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BSQU9UQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's a few really good gifts that I got recently:

Highly recommended:

• Gyokucho Ryoba $39
  
• Pocket Tape Measure $4
  
• Trimming Plane $7
  
• Harbor Freight small clamps $3 ea
  
  Other really good ideas:
  
  
• Gyokucho 10" $41
  
• Center Punch $7
  
• Awl $4
  
• Scraper Set $40

And here's one for $5

and $7

and $10

Atwood tools are a collector's item. No different from buying an expensive stamp or an expensive coin or whatever.

So I don't get what your point is. People can only spend money on things that are 100% useful? That's stupid.

Then there's the whole "it's not just a keychain" argument, but you've clearly made up your (stupid) mind on that one so I won't even bother.

edit: nevermind, just looked at you're profile and you're just an idiot troll, so don't bother replying.

Maybe this? I’ve had one for years and it’s super reliable, plus it has no skulls 😂

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FIX126K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_59UYAbQGVZ9HG

I've lurked here for a while and thought I should make my first post.

I'm also looking for a better wallet similar to mine. I've checked out the Hitch and Timber Card Caddy, but can't justify the price. Any recommendations?

Any other feedback is also welcome :)

Small multi-tools (Pick one and goes in wallet front pocket)

• Vicrorinox classic SD
  
• Leatherman Style PS
  
  Flashlight (Goes in wallet's front pocket)
  
  
• Glaree Key-chain Flashlight
  
  Pens (Pick one)
  
  
• Pilot Metropolitan Fountain Pen
  
  
• Zebra F-301 Compact
  
  Wallet
  
  
• Cheap wallet from amazon that holds my flashlight and multitool
  
  Watch
  
  
• LG Watch Urbane
  
  Earbuds
  
  
• Symphonized NRG 2.0 Earbuds
  
  Phone (Had to Badly Photoshop it into the pic)
  
  
• Moto X Pure Edition with wood back and blue accents and a Poetic Affinity case
  
  On key-chain
  
  
• Chinese Suspension Clip with organizer
  
• Nite-Ize DoohicKey
  
• Sandisk Ultra Flair 64GB
  
• Truck/House keys
  
  Knives (Just my favorites. I usually just carry whatever knife I'm feeling that day)
  
  
• Ganzo/Firebird F7542
  
  
• CRKT Swindle
  
  
• Ontario RAT II
  
  
  
  Edit: not sure why photo uploaded with potato quality
  
  

List is as follows:
Watch - Casio Forester
Notebook - Field Notes Cherry Graph
Pen - Fisher Space Pen kept in fold of wallet
Wallet - Fossil Omega Bifold
Flashlight - ThruNite T01
Keychain - Lucky Line Twist
Keychain - NiteIze DoohicKey

Not Pictured: Samsung Galaxy Note5

All kept in a my father flor de las antillas box when I get home

Edit: formatting

Key tool super handy even if it's just for opening beer
Who doesn't like coffee on the go?
Car window break tool 2 pack! I like to keep an emergency kit in my car, you just never know!
Green tea kit kats, because: delicious
I'd prefer you surprise me! I have my wishlists separated by price :)

http://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-KMT-11-R3-DoohicKey-Multi-Tool/dp/B00FIX126K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1425437915&sr=8-3&keywords=keychain+pry+bar $4 and you won't destroy your knife. Get a carabiner for your keys and throw it on that.

Take a look at this wiring diagram. The only difference between this diagram and the maker select is that there is only 1 extruder and there are 2 separately wired z stepper motors. Both Z motors go here. One row for the first motor. The 2nd row for the 2nd motor. There should be stepper drivers in all the slots except the E1 slot. Your extruder should be on E0. The connectors you will want are Dupont connectors. Something like this kit will work. While you don't need this tool, it makes re-crimping the connectors a whole lot easier. You don't want each z motor on a separate driver as it will cause them to be out of sync. A multimeter is required to calibrate the vref on the stepper drivers. You can usually get one for less than $10. It requires doing some math and then checking the voltage on the stepper drive. Then you adjust the pot till the vref matches what you calculated. The motors will work at a higher or lower voltage, but it will not be efficient. A lower voltage will cause them to have low torque and a high voltage will cause them to produce excess heat(bad), noise, and torque.

I use this one which I understand is the one you linked is a copy of. I've only crimped <10 connectors (JST-RCY and dupont) but it works great.

mainframecustoms.com sells the molex brand pins as well as headers and quality wire for a good price. Go to Amazon and buy iWiss brand crimpers

You don't even need to buy wire, you could use the stock wires after you've shortened them. Just buy maybe 25 or so extra to get the hang of crimping before you start on your project.

Crimp with pliers and solder works but is ghetto. The crimper is dirt cheap compared to years ago.

Like you said; Deans is best.

I boight a cheap hand drill for modeling off amazon ! It’s easier than it sounds tbh !! Patience is key. drilling is easy actually !

This is the one I have :

In-tool-home Precision Pin Vise Model Hand Drill Set with Twist Drill Bits Set of 11 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010BV7190/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SrBJBbRA7ZB78

I bought a nice little hand drill on amazon. It’s great for these things. I use it mostly to drill out the joints in hands and arms to glue in magnets. But there are some tiny drill bits that you can use for the gun barrels.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010BV7190/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RM61CbE51FS4D

Understandable, although you can get hand drills really cheap on Amazon. We're talking $8, for real.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/tool-home-Precision-Model-Drill-Twist/dp/B010BV7190/

Hope this helps! O7

I’m not sure if there are any detailed Instructions but it’s as easy as buying one of these, choosing a drill bit that fits the hole where the peg goes and using it to slightly widen the hole until the peg fits. 99% of the time it only take one pass through to work. That simple

Mini saws are pretty helpful. I bought the Olfa handle and mini saw set from Hlj. Pin vices are pretty similar but one with different size bit holders is nice for tiny wire bits or more conventional size drill bits. [This](In-tool-home Precision Pin Vise Model Hand Drill Set with Twist Drill Bits Set of 11 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010BV7190/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_76PPzbE7Y2ZTF) is pretty much what I have and works great. It's not expensive, but I've got a super cheap pin vise I bought and kind of hate so I don't recommend going ultra cheap.

Are you open to suggestions?

If you haven't already ripped the packaging off of it, my personal recommendation is to not use the Klein non-contact voltage tester (ticker). My experience with it was not good. It was unreliable and the on/off button is junk so the damn thing would never turn off, then it would sit and beep at me constantly while it was in my tool pouch. I finally got rid of it and bought the Santronics ticker. Easily one of the best purchases I've made as an electrician. It's always on, silent, and extremely reliable.

Also, for your hammer I would recommend one with a longer head on it like this one. The reason for this is because you will be doing a lot of work with deep 1900 boxes and 11bs (don't worry if you don't know what those are yet, you will find out soon) and if you're using fasteners that require pounding in with a hammer, you will need a different hammer than the one you have. If you're doing residential work and need to pound staples inbetween studs, you can just use the side of your hammer.

You can probably just return those gloves. You will (or should) be provided with work gloves (many, many pairs of them) at every jobsite you ever work at. You'll never have to buy another pair of work gloves in your life, I can promise you that.

As others have said, get the Klein multi-tool. The 32500 model is the one I use, along with some other commenters in this thread. They are cheap, you'll probably lose the tips every now and then, but it will easily be your most used tool, especially if you're doing a lot of devicing.

Another personal recommendation of mine would be the Ideal Tool Backpack for hauling your stuff around. Sometimes there's a lot of walking involved in getting to and from jobsites, and being able to carry your tools on your back is a lot nicer than carrying them in your hands. It's also nice having your hands free for carrying your lunch box around!

Congratulations on getting in! Keep up a good attitude and you'll do fine. Don't let anyone get on your nerves. 8 hours is 8 hours, make the best of it at all times.

You get what you pay for. I wouldn't touch a $40 cable tester, much less a tool kit.
You can spend money wisely, like buying a Klein 10-in-1 or 11-in-1 for PSTN/POTS outside work.
For precision drivers, Wiha is what you want- this is a nice portable set which works on the bench as well.
For crimpers I currently use an Ideal Telemaster but will be switching to an Amp. For cable testing I use a Fluke Cable IQ or LinkRunner.
Your tools need to be better quality that the amateurs that banged on it before you. You definitely don't want crappy tools to be holding you back.
If you are worried about theft, sign the tools out to individual techs and make them responsible for them. Part of the sign-out process should be an authorization to withhold the replacement cost from their paycheck if they lose anything.

I keep one of these in my kit, my friend has a picquic and it's nice however I find if I'm working on something that requires me to switch bits back and forth the Klein is better.
Klein Tools 32500 11-in-1 Screwdriver/Nut Driver with Cushion Grip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_TSy5wbW1531PA

> Klein tools 11in1

Like this one? https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Industrial-Klein-Tools-32500/dp/B0015SBILG

My Essentials for an Electrics call

Ultimate Focus Tool: http://www.fullcompass.com/prod/224936-StageJunk-7280-RT/

Adjustable C Wrench: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-in-Double-Speed-Adjustable-Wrench-96596/203467743

Screwdriver (multi bit) Similar to this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NM0LBGK3Q7YA&coliid=I3TJ4V0YRRN22T

Belt Tether: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007H6DRGO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Leatherman Surge: http://www.leatherman.com/surge-3.html#start=2

Mini Mag Light: http://www.amazon.com/MAGLITE-M2A016-Mini-Flashlight-Black/dp/B00002N6SL%3Fpsc%3D1%26SubscriptionId%3DAKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q%26tag%3Dduckduckgo-ffsb-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB00002N6SL

Gloves Preferably leather for heat protection when focusing, good dexterity for tying knots and I generally like a Velcro latch on the wrist to give a snug fit

klein I use this nearly everyday

Ran my own PC business for a couple of years.

Craftsman Mini Shop Vac. Make sure it blows and sucks. Put it in the corner of your workshop, extend the tube to your current project and kick the switch.

Screwdrivers: Klein 11 in 1 all the way.

Multitool: SOG Powerlock

When I was a field tech, mostly working with structured cabling and networking equipment I took the following along with me, some of these things are no longer needed with VOIP phones though:

• Klein Scissors, great for working with cabling. http://www.amazon.com/Klein-2100-7-Electricians-Scissors-Stripping/dp/B000VL03NC/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_2
  
  
• Klein 11-in-1 screwdriver (I actually had two) http://www.amazon.com/Klein-32500-Screwdriver-Driver-Cushion/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_y
  
  
• Harris puncdown tool ( I think fluke took them over though in quality) the little flip out hook is really useful when doing 66 blocks or panels - something like this http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-D914S-10061810-impact-EverSharp/dp/B000GA6QEI/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1377872619&sr=1-2&keywords=harris+punch+down+tool (You can get cheaper here, but I burned through the ideal ones pretty fast. The harris ones seemed to last a while).
  
  
• Multimeter (Fluke makes some nice ones)
  
  
• Cable Tester - this will do phone, coax, cat5/6 and isn't crazy priced. You can buy more remotes for it too: http://www.amazon.com/Test-Um-TP300-Resi-Tester/dp/B000J15CEE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1377872779&sr=8-7&keywords=test+um+cable+tester
  
  
• Tone and probe kit (sends a signal over a cable and you can use the wand to figure out what cable it is. Killer for unmarked cables. You'll probably want to take some jacks and make up your own adapters too) - http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-PRO3000-Tone-Probe/dp/B000FTADX0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377872864&sr=8-1&keywords=harris+tone
  
  
• Banjo adapter is nice if you don't want to make your own: http://www.amazon.com/Paladin-Tools-1902-Modular-Adapter/dp/B000099O64/ref=pd_sim_indust_13
  
  
• If you have traditional phone lines to deal with, a buttset (or linemans set) isn't a bad thing to have either.
  
  
• Some coax tools (crimper/stripper)
  
  
• A drywall saw
  
  
• A decent tool bag. I used a generic husky one from lowes.
  
  
• A drill (keep the charger in the bag) and a decent bit set
  
  
• A box of random screws and anchors
  
  
• Bigass roll of velcro
  
  
• Double sided tape
  
  
• ALL the connectors (in bulk)
  
  
• Electrical tape
  
  
• Pull string anytime you fish a conduit or a pain in the ass space, leave a string.
  
  
• Various standard hand tools, spackle isn't bad to have and a putty knife, I had a cheap soldering iron and some basic stuff for it too. Sharpies (a whole pack of them). A level, a tape measure.
  
  
• A label maker! Brother makes a bunch. Label everything!
  
  
• Flashlight. I carried two. One small penlight on myself (streamlight) and one that shared the batteries with my drill.
  
  Obviously this all doesnt go in one bag, but I had mine in my car/truck all the time. It'd be a lot easier in an office.

[Buy this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000DYVCX/ref=pd_aw_sbs_469_of_13?ie=UTF8&dpID=51g-Z1pBaDL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL130_SR130%2C130_&refRID=1H6ZNBA1E0MZHKZ6PSNA)

[And this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000X4KP4O/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1463466314&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=knipex+mini+pliers&dpPl=1&dpID=41HdNhgMdeL&ref=plSrch)

[And this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015SBILG/ref=pd_aw_vtph_469_bs_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1NT2WRRQR46AWYKGDRHJ)

Add in your knife of choice.

[And keep one of these in the trunk just in case something can't be fixed] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003LS4HZC/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1463468221&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=stanley+fubar&dpPl=1&dpID=216GABuqFaL&ref=plSrch)

Check out the spyderco bug I just got one the other day. Very high quality mini knife.

If anyone wants to know, I believe that its this Please correct me OP if I'm wrong

Would this and a small knife (Spyderco Bug?) fit the bill? Too many tools (without one being pliers) and finding quality is hard.

I bought my wife a Spyderco Bug and she loves it. Tiny, very sharp. Unfortunately she works for a lawyer and often has to go to the local courthouse. They missed it for the longest time. Truly remarkable, but don't count on it passing security.

This one is so small it looks kind of ridiculous, but it's smaller than a key and easily fits on a keychain.

The Spyderco Bug gets lost among standard-size keys…which I like

Spyderco Bug SS Slip Joint Plain Edge Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003788U9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kio7Bb329HR1W

How small of a knife would you be willing to purchase?
Any of the Spyderco Bug series would be a good choice. Priced right and come in different sizes.

[Bug](http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Slip-Joint-Plain-Knife/dp/B003788U9U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373555986&sr=8-1&
keywords=Spyderco+bug)

Honeybee

Grasshopper

All three deal


For opening boxes (cutting tape) any of those will suffice. If your cutting cardboard, then mostly the Grasshopper will do (although not efficiently)


Also an Opinel looks classy while still being functional. All different sizes to choose from too.

Gerber EDC Zip. Absolutely tiny, but pretty darn useful. Rarely do I need a larger knife. Hard AF to sharpen though, I have to take it apart. http://imgur.com/a/bwGIO

Spyderco Bug (12) Too small. Must be held like a full-size folder, which just doesn't work at this size.

Gerber EDC Zip (7-12) Love it. Thick enough to hold with a pinch grip, and small enough that I don't have to give any consideration to its weight. Sadly I have to take the blade out to sharpen it.

Rotring 600 0.5mm Mechanical Pencil

Sandisk SD Card

I have a few related items on my list.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003788U9U/ref=aw_ls_5_3?colid=368F5J8P3BJ0&coliid=I1667UJO8ZXVAE

a knife for cutting fishing line and other stuff that needs cutting.



http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006QF3TW4/ref=aw_ls_3_2?colid=368F5J8P3BJ0&coliid=I15QKLX8FD0MDT

water filter, who knows when I will need clean water while out hiking the beautiful land of colorado.


Thanks for the contest!

The cheapest one you can find on Amazon. Actually, just buy two.

Throw one in your trunk and forget about it until you need a knife one day.
Throw the other in your toolbox and use it for random jobs.

After a few months of using it you'll realize it's a great little thing and get another to take camping.

Edit:
I like this one because it's ~$8.50 and your fingers won't slip onto the blade under any circumstances. It's a little on the small side if you have big hands though.

For camping I like this one.

I got [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Mora-Made-in-Sweden-511/dp/B004GAVOUU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1372837994&sr=8-2&keywords=mora) one, I have not eally used it but the quality is great and was abe to shave hair out of box. Most higher end mora's are $15 ish. The Scandy grind makes it impossibly easy to sharpen.

Morakniv has done well for me

Mora knives are the exception to rule #3. I'm a particularly big fan of this little guy.

all the moras are nice. get a carbon steel mora classic if you just want a base model, or if you don't like the wood handle/traditional look you can grab the mora frost which is cheaper and has a nice and grippy rubber handle. if you wanna spend a bit more cash, they have a line of thicker blades, designed for specific bushcraft use (whatever that means) such as the mora bushcraft black. basically they don't make a bad knife. even if you get the cheapest mora utility you will not be disappointed.

your sog is legit though, i really like it. i've been meaning to add a combo straight/serrated fixed blade to my collection and the seal pup elite really caught my eye. good looking blade for sure.

>but at the same time I am not going to buy a 10$ knife and toss it next month

Buy a $9 knife...and keep it for a lifetime.

Looks like the Mora Utility Knife with a patina.

Here you go: 40+ ratings, 5 stars! $10 bucks

http://www.amazon.com/Mora-Made-in-Sweden-511/dp/B004GAVOUU

I've got this one for food prep. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004GAVOUU

It came shaving sharp and has stayed that way. This plus a dollar store frisbee, chopsticks, a spoon, a silicone baking dish and a cheap tea kettle are pretty much my field mess kit. I like the full size kettle because it is just fun to tie to the outside of my pack.

Five day hike? I think you'll want to find two bags; a lightweight one that you'll be happy with carrying; and a heavy comfy one (like the Field & Stream). Car camping is great! It's tons of fun and easy experience.

When it comes to my opinion and knives; I say you don't need much for camping. I personally use a leatherman micra. I'd recommend something small; even a box cutter. Avoid cheap knock offs (like cheap leatherman look-a-likes, swiss army look-a-likes) because they are impossible to sharpen and dangerous (the folding blades will fold closed right on your hand). If you have no other knife and no particular knife-need, aside from a general camping/hiking knife, then consider this one... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GAVOUU/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .

Now if you needed a knife for batoning wood, carving spoons, gutting deer, or some other particular purpose - my recommendation would change.

Renting a pack? I highly recommend it. It'll give you a chance to see what you like and don't like before you make the big purchase. A $10 pack rental is well worth it, considering packs sell for $100-300+. Also, temporarily trade out packs with your buddy when possible, even if it's only for half of an hour.

Amazon and
Gerber

I would be interested to know your thoughts. Ive had it on 4 trips so far and its worked great.

edit: Seems the reviews are tough on the pliers holding up with use. I use them to pull fishhooks which is pretty light work

Spyderco Tenacious

What is your budget and what type of blade are you looking for?

My favorite knife is the CRKT M16-13SF With the Auto Lawks feature, it becomes a veritable tank and performs like a full tang fixed blade.

I really like my Spyderco Tenacious as an EDC, does everything you're looking for.

The Kershaw 6034 Emerson Designed CQC-6K and the Kershaw 6044TBLK Emerson Designed CQC-8K are supposed to be really good, I haven't gotten around to buying but I am going to real soon.

If money is not an issue, then I suggest going for the Benchmade or Emerson route.

Fixed blades? Without getting too deep into it an ESEEor a Ka-Bar will last you forever.

Or you could just go with you know... An icepick

How much are you willing to spend on your knife? I'll list some personal suggestions:
-Zero Tolerance 0350- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002QFJLEI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KtvazbAND0VBR
$140
-Kershaw Knives 1556BLK Cryo II Framelock Black- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VGLC5ZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vwvazbC8VD0H0
$30
-Spyderco Tenacious Folding Knife, G-10 Black Handle, Plain Edge, Black Blade - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007CK1MNU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_txvazb93JM0N7
$40
-Benchmade Contego 810,- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007VIDCBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ozvazbC0ACM6D
$195

Hope this helps

Spyderco Tenacious

http://www.amazon.com/Tenacious-Black-Blade-Plain-Edge/dp/B007CK1MNU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1334068084&sr=8-2 not in your price range but its only 40 dollars and its an amazing value

There it is.

Spyderco Tenacious Folding Knife, G-10 Black Handle, Plain Edge, Black Blade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007CK1MNU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_fXnRwbCYVBDGJ

Personally I like having one large locking blade that is clipped to my pocket for easy retrieval and use and a multitool. I would probably refine the selection to something like a Leatherman Juice (more useful than the huntsman IMHO). Then add a nice EDC sized knife like the kershaw injection, ESEE Avispa / ESEE Zancudo, Spyderco Tenacious, or Ontario Rat or Utilitac II.

Not sure what you're budget is, but you're talking about less than $100 for the whole system at that point.

The Endura4 looks pretty good! I know this might be a stupid question but what would be the main difference between this and one of the cheaper knives like this Kershaw Emerson?

Is it steel type? Handle materials? Sharpness?

Also, what do you think of the Spyderco Resilience and Tenacious

Depends on your ends. If you're using fancy Ez push through Cat 6's like: https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100010C-Connectors-Clamshell/dp/B000FI9VU2 Then I'd get the platinum tools one to match https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=pd_sim_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00939KFOU&pd_rd_r=47RDY57AQH3AGVVSSR90&pd_rd_w=aewvk&pd_rd_wg=Fsm6F&psc=1&refRID=47RDY57AQH3AGVVSSR90 since it'll cut the cables off as you crimp.

Otherwise I'd go with Klein's. Their data cable stuff is very good.

I bought one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU

It has the A and B standards printed on the side of the crimper!


Also it uses these ends that make the job a cinch. When you crimp it cleaves off the excess wire.

http://imgur.com/a/8ixLE

1. Cordless Driver http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF680N2-Gyroscopic-Screwdriver-Battery/dp/B00DL7QDS2
   
2. RJ45 EZ Crimper http://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1423770419&sr=8-3&keywords=rj45+EZ+crimpers
   
3. Heavy Duty Scissors http://www.amazon.com/Clauss-18081-Titanium-Adjustable-Ultraflex/dp/B00270XY1I
   
4. Folding Box Cutter http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWHT10035L-Folding-Retractable-Utility/dp/B0051QIBGI
   
5. USB Serial Adaptor http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-USA-19HS-High-Speed-supports/dp/B0000VYJRY
   
6. Flush cut snips http://www.amazon.com/Xcelite-2178M-Heavy-Duty-Shearcutter-Diagonal/dp/B002M6U5JG/ref=sr_1_10?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1423770726&sr=1-10&keywords=flush+cut+pliers
   
7. RJ45 Couplers http://www.amazon.com/Connector-Modular-Network-Coupler-Adapter/dp/B00K836DHI
   
8. Fiber cleaning Tool http://www.fiberoptics4sale.com/p/6210MF.html?gclid=CjwKEAiAgKu2BRDu1OGw3-KXokwSJAB_Yy2Qe4jogMWd-DK7Gz5p5LfMkTCwda6IBgaEzluP7vm-ARoCl-7w_wcB
   
9. Hex bit set http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW2166-45-Piece-Screwdriving-Set/dp/B002JWSNIS
   
10. Light Meter http://www.amazon.com/Optical-50dBm-Locator-Male-LC-Adapter/dp/B00D6BVRN4
    
11. Multitool http://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Swiss-Cybertool-Pocket-Knife/dp/B00005ML8H
    
12. 1m SingleMode Simplex x8
    
13. 1m SingleMode Simplex x8
    
14. 1m SingleMode Simplex x8
    
15. 1m Multimode Simplex x8
    
16. 1m Multimode Simplex x8
    
17. 1m Multimode Simplex x8
    
18. Fiber Couplers SC/LC x8

Pretty close to $25

https://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Knives-1556TI-Pocket-Knife/dp/B00AU6NWP4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485216970&sr=8-2&keywords=Kershaw+cryo

My main EDC knife is a Kershaw Cryo 2 I love it because I'm a fidgeter too and the assisted opening action on this knife is very satisfying to me. Its a little more than $30 on amazon right now but I got mine for about $25 so they do have sales on them. Also its slightly on the heavier side for the size and I know you said you wanted light. Personally I like the heft. If you can find one locally somewhere I'd recommend picking it up and flicking it open a few times.

Kershaw cryo is nice, solid steel scales and a stop pin so you can't over stress the framelock and best of all, it's cheap for the quality

Well since this post, I've actually done a good amount of research and narrowed it down to pretty much two options:

The Cryo II because of the deep carry clip, good size, speed safe, and reputation


or

The Volt II for its awesome blade shape, tons of features, good comfortable grip, and pretty much perfection. I'm kind of in love with the Volt II. It's just so thick.. It would be my dream EDC knife if it had a grip like the Kershaw Chill with its G-10, diamond pattern handle and thinness. So, idk. I'll probably end up going with the Volt II, I just with the grip were G-10 and more EDC oriented

An excuse for a nice kershaw or similar company one handed knife would be "everything". I can't even keep track of all the times I use my knife during a given day, but not a single day goes by I don't use it for something. cutting, prying, backside to unscrew flat head screws, ect. there are so many reason to carry a good knife.

my knife: http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1556TI-Cryo-Folding-Knife/dp/B00AU6NWP4

in case that doesn't work: http://kershaw.kaiusaltd.com/knives/knife/cryo-ii

^also, never pay full MSRP on a manufacturers website. js

https://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Knives-1556TI-Pocket-Knife/dp/B00AU6NWP4

Kershaw Cryo II

Pogledaj na eBayu još. Ja ga kupio za cca 250 kn i prezadovoljan sam.

$20.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AU6NWP4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485025629&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=kershaw+cryo+2&dpPl=1&dpID=21YyqtxOCAL&ref=plSrch

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AU6NWP4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000G0JI34/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here you are sir. Nothing special just fun to get new knives

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BSQU9UQ/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I15OAS2TCLBJ8L&colid=SI9GEMOLWFP9&psc=1

good advice in this thread, but I can't believe no one mentioned the mack daddy.

I'm sure you've seen it on youtube, so its well liked. The replacement blades aren't very expensive so no need to send it around the world to get sharpened. It really is a great saw. I learned on sharp western Disston saws, but the Japanese pull saw came as second nature once I let the saw do the work.

Thats a good all around saw, but you might prefer the Dozuki (in related items) for dovetails and spline cuts.

Definitely get yorself out of the "cordless system" mindset entirely if you want to really get into decent woodworking. Cordless is really awesome for building a house or drilling in the attic, but you're overpaying for a benefit that you aren't utilizing. Cordless circular saw can make sense, but not a miter saw and certainly not a table saw unless you are a contractor or farmer (or have goofy power requirements, but I still maintain it's an exception requirement and not something any normal user needs).

A really really exceptional hand saw for woodworking is this guy -
https://www.amazon.com/Ryoba-Double-Razor-Hardwoods-Woodworker/dp/B00BSQU9UQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2MWJCIOPZF45&keywords=gyokucho+ryoba&qid=1566045150&s=hi&sprefix=gyokucho%2Ctools%2C208&sr=1-3


For reference, I do hobby woodworking and house upgrade projects. I have one power saw, a makita track saw, and an unreasonable array of hand saws (I think I have 11 or 12 different hand saws at the moment). Rarely do I want or need something more, a table saw at some point but only for repeatable cuts when I'm doing something with multiple specific rips.

Do you know if he typically buys higher end tools or mid range? I ask because he probably already has something similar but a Starrett Square would be an awesome gift. I don't own one but would be trilled if someone randomly gave me one.

You could go with either the 13A Double Square or the 6" combination square. Both are around $70 and he would probably use it every project.

I'll also never go without one of these saw in my shop. Ryoba Japanese pull saw

Does he use hand planes? Kinda expensive but this plane is seeing lots of use in my shop now: Rabbet Block Plane

If you don't have a sawzall, get one of these bad boys:

Irwin

or Ryoba

I have the Ryoba, it's an amazing saw. They cut on the pull stroke so it's easier to keep a straight line than a western saw. They also have flexible blades which make trimming flush a breeze.

For crosscutting and medium/large tenon cuts, I'd consider the Gyokucho Ryoba to be the best value saw out there. I've got a little Dozuki that I picked up at Woodcraft that I use for dovetails and small stuff, but that Ryoba is a workhorse for less than $30.

https://www.amazon.com/Ryoba-Double-Razor-Hardwoods-Woodworker/dp/B00BSQU9UQ

Here is what I use.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BSQU9UQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_lrBEwbCMEQW16

I would look at something like this. They get great reviews for the price and yes to ensure square cuts I would use a shooting board to get it dialed in after cross cutting.

From Top Left to Right.

Gearward Compact Survival Cord Mini, 25’
[http://gearward.com/collections/frontpage/products/compact-survival-cord-mini-technora]


Tucked inside the folds of the cord are: a micro neodymium magnet, a pen spring, a small safety pin.
[https://www.amazon.com/10-100pcs-Neodymium-Strong-Magnets-MarbellStore/dp/B01LZEJWVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484275063&sr=8-1&keywords=micro+neodymium+magnets].
Have actually used this for: fishing some ladies keys from a grate at the school before the janitor could show up. Also repaired a neighbour’s skate lace with the cord.

Night Ize Inova thumb light (three functions, bright, medium, flash)
[https://www.amazon.com/Nite-INOVA-Ultraviolet-Microlight-Clip/dp/B00CG17GDA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484275003&sr=8-2&keywords=Nite+Ize+inova]
Have actually used this for finding a lost earring in a dark movie theatre. Thought I would use it to find the locks on my house and car, but everything is pretty well lit.

Stanley Key Chain Tape Measure
[https://www.amazon.com/Toysmith-Key-Chain-Tape-Measure/dp/B000F4G5NW/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484274328&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=stanley+keychain+tape+measure+1m]
Have actually used this for buying a new sideboard from an antique shop. Knew the measurements of the room and used this to determined it wouldn’t fit in that room. LOL.

Nite Ize inka Mobile Pen
[https://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-Mobile-Stylus-IMP-M1-R7/dp/B00BAWSOD2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484275029&sr=8-2&keywords=Nite+Ize+Inka]
Have actually used this tons of times whether someone doesn’t have a pen, or for myself at the passport office or recently at the lawyer’s office.

Prime-Lite 5-1 Multifunction Keychain with Light
[http://www.prime-lite.ca/camping_outdoors/5-in-1-multifunction-keychain-with-light-24-852.html]
A new addition. I like the full sized Phillips screwdriver bit. Has a flashlight. Used it to open the bottom of my son’s new RC car’s battery compartment. Has a knife, too. Good for package opening. Not much else.

[Nite Ize DoohicKey Keychain Multitool]
(https://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-DoohicKey-Multi-Tool-Stainless/dp/B00FIX126K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484274688&sr=8-2&keywords=Nite+Ize+keychain).
Actually used this recently to pry open my frozen gas cap cover.

[Mini Bic Lighter]
(https://www.amazon.com/Lot-Bic-Mini-Multi-colour-Lighter/dp/B00863XN4I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484274798&sr=8-1&keywords=mini+bic)
To light cigs, mostly. Haven’t needed to start any urban fires. But… I wrapped over it a thin layer of [To-Go Gorilla Tape] (https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-6100101-2-Duct-Tape-Black/dp/B01M2AAGTZ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484274817&sr=8-1&keywords=travel+gorilla+tape) and generic electrical tape at the base. [I interwove the electrical tape through a generic (plastic coated) paperclip so that it acts as a keychain. Haven’t lost one yet.]. I used the duct tape recently when a poster fell down at my kids’ Christmas recital and I was able to peel a few pieces off for the teacher to put it back up.

[Mini Sharpie Marker]
(https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Permanent-Markers-Assorted-4-Count/dp/B000GOZXA2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484274852&sr=8-1&keywords=mini+sharpie+marker)
Used it recently to write a nasty note to a jerk who dinged my car. Also to get an autograph on a menu of an actor you’ve probably never heard of, but who was big growing up in Toronto.

[Generic Folding Travel Scissors]
(https://www.amazon.com/UCEC-Scissors-Xiaoquan-Slip-N-Snip-scissors/dp/B0199VSV42/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1484274914&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=folding+scissors&psc=1)
Sharper than I expected. I recently used this to save the day when my son refused to wear his new Christmas sweater for a family picture because the tags were itching his back. Snip. Problem solved.

[Gerber Dime Micro Tool]
(https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-31-001040-Dime-Micro-Tool/dp/B0079J51JU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1484274877&sr=8-4&keywords=gerber+dime)
Good to have this as it has pliers, but I haven’t used it other than to pull yellow lego heads out of lego helmets.

[Nite Ize Key Rack Locker]
(https://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-Stainless-Carabiner-MicroLocks/dp/B00FIX12AG/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1484274970&sr=8-1&keywords=Nite+Ize+Keychain)
A good way to keep it all together. These clips don’t lose their… clippieness.


So, I love this little EDC. Will continue to use it, thought I don’t see many ways to improve it!

I used those locking S Biners for a long time to carry my few keys and a Leatherman Brewzer, but I recently switched over to a Nite Ize DoohicKey. As I said I only carry a couple keys (my flashlight and multitool are bigger than keychain size), so it might not work for you.

I got Nite Ize keychain: https://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-DoohicKey-Multi-Tool-Stainless/dp/B00FIX126K/ref=sr_1_10?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1487548903&sr=1-10

It has now become my "go to" screw driver when I need to unscrew those little adapters that go on tripods as well as main tripod screws sometimes. Super useful because I'm always outside and it's not practical to bring a screwdriver. Plus I don't know how many times the can opening feature has saved my behind.

If it helps I've been using a dohickey for the last few months and I love it.

I literally own a product called a "doohickey"

Thanks! Right now I have the Nite Ize but the part that attaches to the keychain is a little too big for my taste. Other than that I absolutely love it.

• Glasses by BMEC
  
• Apple Watch Series 3 - Strap
  
• iPhone XR - Otterbox Symmetry
  
• Airpods
  
• Go-tcha for Pokemon Go
  
• Kershaw Barge
  
• Whipping Post Picker's Wallet
  
• Keys with Nite-Ize DoohicKey

• Victorinox Swiss Army Farmer Knife
  
• Braun Classic Mesh Watch
  
• Gerber E.A.B Knife
  
• Jack Spade Money Clip
  
• Maratac Stainless Steel Flashlight
  
• Kingston DataTraveler 64GB Flash Drive
  
• Nite Ize DoohicKey Tool
  
• Mophie Powerstation Plus
  
• Handgrey Titanium Carabiner

Paracord works well too, but it's just more difficult sleeving it without a threading tool. Mainframe sells that too, and I'm not sure which places will be much cheaper. Also I bought this crimping tool, and it works just as well. Just make sure you use the middle slot.

They're dupont connectors. You need a set of them like this and a crimper.

Dupont Crimpers

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752C431F/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0752C431F&pd_rd_wg=FC2o1&pd_rd_r=0GQ3GMPG08T6MJ62D7ZJ&pd_rd_w=N4O51

They're a style of "Molex" connector. You need to buy the connector, the pins and a crimper. Looks like the above kit has the style in the photo.

I have printed many of his components for my c-bot printer and his stuff is very well thought out. I went bigger and I am sure that I will run into some tech hurdles to overcome because of the size and weight of my bed but your excellent prints give me hope! For DuPont connectors I picked up an iswiss ratcheting DuPont connector crimper. Click Here

If you didn't get the ratcheting on it is worth the money. I would insert the connector. Crimp down until the tabs that grip the wire insulation would bow slightly, and then insert my wire and finish the crimp. Worked like a champ!

Not to sound too much like an Amazon shill, but here's what I bought:

IWISS Crimping Tools for Dupont Professional Pin Compression Ratcheting Modular Insulated Terminal Crimper Pin 2.54mm 3.96mm 28-18AWG 0.5-1.0mm2 with Wire-electrode Cutting Die

Hilitchi 560Pcs 2.54mm JST-XHP 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 Pin housing and Male / Female Pin Head Connector Adapter Plug Set

Dupont Connector Kit - 1004 pcs Crimp Connector Kit with Dupont Wire Connectors and Ribbon Cable - A Set of Male and Female 2.54 mm Dupont Connectors and Crimp Pins from Plusivo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078RRPRQZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QeG2DbPF16YMJ

IWISS SN-28B Crimping Tool for AWG28-18 Dupont Pins https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OMM4YUY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xfG2DbYRNREYR

I bought something like this and this crimper. It's not worth the cost for a one-off job, though.

You buy the $25 ratcheting ones from amazon.


I have some $600 - $900 crimpers, but DuPont like in the picture doesn’t require it.

There’s a lot of skill involved with it, don’t solder your wires to the pins, take the time and get good with them.


IWISS SN-28B Crimping Tool for AWG28-18 Dupont Pins https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OMM4YUY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eKYSDb81BFEFY

The original Maestro comes with all the connectors needed, if you bought a clone it may not. In that case just get yourself a box full. I soldered the connectors of the KF2510 to the original wiring loom which was very tedious work, even so I am fairly experienced with soldering. The much better method is to use a proper crimping tool, the one I bought of AliExpress just didn’t arrive in time…

Edit: no DuPont needed, the drivers are on board and properly wired up.

This is the crimping tool I'm using. It seems ok, and had good reviews on Amazon. I will say that I'm having a hard time with the "pre-crimp," in that if I go all the way to 3 clicks, it's too far, so I'm having to stop at 2 clicks. Not sure that's causing an issue, though. I'm using 18 ga wire.

Based on some of the other comments, I'm pretty sure I was carrying the sleeving up too far, and that was making it hard to get the pin in the hole. I've back the sleeving up/trimmed some of it down, and it's going a little better.

Thanks for the response!

Thanks! I've purchased these JST-HXP connectors and this crimping tool. Is that right?

When I was asking about this for the ender 3 /u/robbob2112b gave a very detailed breakdown on what they had done.


> These are what I use on the tevo and when I put the e3dv6 on the ender I'll use them there too....

>I started them about 6 inches back up the wires from the hot end spaced them out so them aren't one big blob.... used different ones for different things so they can't be switched out and if for some reason a wire pulls loose it doesnt short anything... doing it I can swap out the hot end in minutes, do a PID tune and I'm off to the races.


>Connectors and max current rating

>Jst-sm for the fans and thermistor - 3amp
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTKD7P4/

>Mini Tamiya type b for the heater - 10 amp
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XSD9JJQ/

>Jst-xhp are the white connector for stepper motors - 3 amp
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTH46S7/

>Dupont for the black on the main board - 3 amp
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CVYPDGS/

>These for heated bed - up to 30 amps - solder only, not crimp
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H54LZN2/

>Crimpers - get the right ones for the pin type in the connectors you buy, you can't use just any old crimper or wing it with these tiny pins and get a good connection that doesn't come apart when things move for hours

>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1RFZZ4/
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YGLKBSK/
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OMM4YUY/


>Since I'm on the subject heated bed wires - large enough to carry the current and with the silicone cover and fine internal strands flexible enough to not break with movement

>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M9IXL5Q/r

Kicks amiibo for $3.84

In-tool-home Precision Pin Vise Model Hand Drill Set with Twist Drill Bits Set of 11 for $4.08

Or this purse for $4.99!

You can pick whichever you like. I have a lot of add on items too. I also have a cheap WL with items $5 and less.

My bearded dragon that passed away last year

Yeah man, all you do is cut into some cork, super glue in some wire (in this case mine is 15 gauge I think?), find a drill bit that matches said wire and then drill where ever you desire on the mini for mounting. You can find hobby drill bits/vices online pretty easy. Corks I had lying around, wire I got from Hobby Lobby (general arts and crafts store) and my drill stuff I got off Amazon (link https://www.amazon.com/tool-home-Precision-Model-Drill-Twist/dp/B010BV7190/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510382874&sr=8-3&keywords=hobby+drill&dpID=51x%252B7gNAlgL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch ) EDIT: When I did my Primaris arms, I just drilled out the barrels and the wire fit perfectly in them too.

I just thought of something. It's a giant pin vice

In-tool-home Precision Pin Vise Model Hand Drill Set with Twist Drill Bits Set of 11 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010BV7190/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Qu7tzbZ934F2N

I got this one off of Amazon.

get something like this, with the drills maybe in your local measurements.

then a set of files like this or a complete set like that. than this strange substance.

consider this in case he gets funny. some collection of magnets like those. prices vary drasticly, again go for local measurement system. he will probably need 1x1mm, 2x1mm, 3x2mm. just check if the drills you got and the magnets fit size wise and the magnets have to be neodynium.

​

i am not very familar with skaven so i cant give much advice on models but i assume this one will make him happy. it qualifizes for "anything really cool", can be used to build different things he might like and you can use the stuff mentioned above to fill out the rest of the budget if you like.

​

this overrated book vendor in the links was just used as example of product and quality and prizes of products will vary drastically. with this stuff you cant make too much wrong with going cheap.

somebody from your country might offer you a good vendor. i cant really suggest specific products since they maybe are not availlable where you are from.

​

my most sincere condolences that you lost your partner to plastic crack :(

A small hand drill for better control. I would avoid power tools. Mark the spot with a pointy metal tool before drilling for good centering.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/tool-home-Precision-Model-Drill-Twist/dp/B010BV7190

You do you for the paint, but These things are definitely worth it. even just for assembling.

Betafpv sells these 4-blades, but they are a bit heavier than regular. They also have taller hub which protrudes further out of the duct, increasing the possibility of hitting something and damaging the motor.

So I ended up drilling regular whoop props with a small hand drill and a 1mm bit. It is easy to do and the results are great – no unbalance or anything, prop sits snug on the shaft. I recommend doing the same. This is the drill I used.

Down the line you might want to consider a small model drill for drilling out gun barrels with if you plan to do a lot of armor models. This isn't a necessity, but adds to the look of a finished model:

https://www.amazon.com/tool-home-Precision-Model-Drill-Twist/dp/B010BV7190/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482606813&sr=8-1&keywords=model+drill

Painting is a big part of model making as well, and weathering is the cherry on top. Vallejo's AFV system is a good place to start for basic weathering. These kits give you the basic washes and pigments with instructions for getting a pretty nice result.

https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Weathering-Yellow-Grey-Vehicles/dp/B00BATBLRG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482607023&sr=8-1&keywords=Vallejo+AFV+Weathering

Welcome to the hobby! I visit my local hobby shop on a regular basis and every time Im there I end up picking up a small bottle of paint or pigments to add to the arsenal. As you get into it you will see what you need and dont need according to your style, but with what you have posted and what has been suggested, you are pretty much ready to go! Have fun and don't forget to post what you do here on reddit! We wanna see!

I've got you, brother.

Amazon!!!!


In-tool-home Precision Pin Vise Model Hand Drill Set with Twist Drill Bits Set of 11 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010BV7190?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I asked this same thing and found a ton of good write ups on doing it yourself. If you have some cheap knives to sharpen or practice on its kind of an enjoyable thing to do. I practices on some super cheap knives and got them REALLY sharp.

http://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Combination-Knife-Sharpening-Stone/dp/B0000Y7LAS/ref=sr_1_4?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1411070704&sr=1-4&keywords=king+whetstone

This, some water and a rag. I know this doesnt answer your question, but i figured i would throw it out there anyway. I do have one Global knife that i am afraid to mess with that needs a lot of work....i think that one i will actually take to a specialist.

The bottom budget (or lowest you could go without blaming your sharpening equipment for failure) would be a Norton combination India stone or King combination water stone, plus some honing compound and a scrap of denim or leather glued to a block of wood for a strop.

Use a honing guide like this if you aren't comfortable trying free hand.

A tool is sharp when two surfaces (the back/face and bevel) meet at a sharp corner with ~0 radius. The edge is honed/refined on finer and finer stones to get a better surface finish and better edge retention.

Here are some tutorials with and without a honing guide. I recommend watching both, because each covers a different aspect of initial chisel prep.

On top of your sharpening equipment, work from both sides and use knife lines to prevent blow out.

This?

http://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Combination-Knife-Sharpening-Stone/dp/B0000Y7LAS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405430360&sr=8-1&keywords=king+k80

Your Mora has a Scandi grind, so you can easily sharpen it with a bit of practice and an abrasive surface. Get some Japanese water stones next (like the K-80) and learn how to maintain the blade.

Which Mora model did you get?

Your chisel is dull! I'd almost guarantee it :D buy a Japanese water stone, they are cheap and work very well:

http://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Combination-Knife-Sharpening-Stone/dp/B0000Y7LAS/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1415641430&sr=8-9&keywords=japanese+waterstone

A pretty cheap and reliable one I've been using is this King 250/1000 one. $20, 1000 gets me by (and I just picked up another King 6000 just because why not...)

https://www.amazon.com/KING-1000-Grit-Combination-Waterstone/dp/B0000Y7LAS/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1500401531&sr=1-2-fkmr0&keywords=king+350+wetstone

I've been using this for years now and it does the trick.

Would something like this do?

I want to sharpen my Kershaw Camber (S30V steel) I want it to be really sharp but not too expensive. I'm talking like I'll spend $20 on a sharpener. Do you have any suggestions?

King makes a 250/1000 even cheaper than their 1/6k. I haven't found many thoughts on it from knife nerds though.

I'd check out some offerings from toolsfromjapan (if you can wait a bit). There are some cheap Suehiro combination stones in suitable grits.

I started with this then got one of these for removing larger chunks.
*note the irwin one comes with a factory edge meaning it will need to be sharpened...so you'll need one of these and this to get that baby super sharp. then run it over the flat part of this and you'll be in like Flynn.

Also the flexcut slip strop if used every 20 minutes of carving (with any tool) will keep the edges super sharp for longer, meaning you dont have to go to the harsh stone right away. Also, note, when using the stone, to soak for at least 20 minutes before using. There are plenty of great youtube videos out there teaching proper sharpening technique for all sorts of tools with Water stones.

I'd also suggest a wooden mallet and a larger heavier one, or I just use a rubber mallet. Also while you're at it, grab a coping saw to remove large areas of unwanted wood. Make sure you have a vice to hold your wood or some sort of block device.

I'm still waiting on my carving knives from Here. They have a back order of 6-8 weeks! I got a straight (sloyd) knife and a hook knife for spoon carving and such.

So far that's where I'm at. Hope that helps.

Non-mobile: 250/1000 waterstone

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

Get a 250/1000 waterstone and you can use it to sharpen a $1000 Japanese steel kitchen knife or a $20 pocket knife and everything in between.

Most other things posted here chew off ALOT of steel and aren't the best choice. I use these professionally in the kitchen, and I use them for sharpening even my axes at home.

> Unfortunately my pockets are too full for a multi tool. I used to carry one until I wore it to pieces.

I wasn't talking about a multitool like a leatherman. I meant one of those credit card sized wallet tools like these:

http://www.amazon.com/Kikkerland-CD401-Classic-Survival-Tool/dp/B000P583I6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395675626&sr=8-1&keywords=wallet+multi+tool

http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Logic-CC1SB-Companion-Serrated/dp/B0001WOKWQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395675592&sr=8-2&keywords=wallet+multi+tool

http://www.amazon.com/Zootility-PocketMonkey/dp/B00D38N1OS/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1395675746&sr=8-22&keywords=wallet+multi+tool

These are fine for something to use in a pinch for rough measurements, which you can carry in your wallet, but if you need resolution to a tenth of a millimeter I'm not sure I'd count on these, they're basically glorified rulers. I'm not sure I'd count on that pocket micrometer either though as it's not from any established manufacturer and may be more of a "gee whiz" type item with questionable precision. How do you zero it for example?

This one on ThisIsWhyImBroke is pretty good for $20, although I'd buy instead a Victorinox SwissCard because I'm a big Victorinox fan. But you specified you wanted a knife not a multitool, and the first one has a big knife. The knife on the SwissCard is more like a letter opener.

Hello and thank you for the contest! I have a Tool Logic Credit Card Companion thingymabob that I would like to get for my cousin. It was in a private list, so I have moved it to my For Me list, so you can see it.

Share the love! :D

I'm late to the party, but I'm giving him a Thermos brand travel coffee mug, one of these, a really nice pair of wool socks, and a new, really nice set of clippers because he cuts his own hair. Pretty lame, I know, but we're practical gift-givers in our house.

Terrorist tool kit.

http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Logic-CC1SB-Companion-Translucent/dp/B0001WOKWQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1343862380&sr=8-1&keywords=credit+card+tool+kit

Swiss card (or this one by Tool Logic which I actually like a little bit better). Just put it in your wallet, they will NEVER find it ;)

This one

I highly recommend this instead. I've had mine for 2 years and use the knife at least thrice a week. No the blade doesn't have a handle, but I think of it more as a utility knife. It's great in a pinch and the construction is very sturdy.

I WANT THIS

There are tons of awesome goodies here. If I were the groom, I'd get the guys the shot glass checker set or the credit card companion.

Father: Does he have a smartphone? If so, there's a really cool airplane that can be controlled by a smart phone if he's into tech and gadgets like that.

Brother: This one was harder for me, but maybe a multitool like dzernumbrd suggested, since he's always working on things himself. There is one mutlitool that fits in your wallet which I think is kind of nifty. Maybe he will as well?

Good luck and happy holidays!

Sorry to hear that. Sounds like a 'workplace procedures' trap.

I always have three things: a pocket knife, a filled lighter, and a working pen. None of these are going to save my life or anything, but they come in handy for day-to-day stuff.

Pocket knife is a good thought if OP doesn't have one already.

Lots of threads around on them, and you can easily spend a hundred bucks or more, but I'd lean towards a cheap one. Anything you carry around with you all the time is likely to get lost eventually, and you don't want it to be totally irreplaceable.

Also don't get some freaky huge self-opening combat knife, people will think you're a psycho. And it'll wear holes in your pants. Something like the Ken Onion Chive is useful and won't look totally out of place in business casual clothes.

And the Chive for $24.49

When I read the post, the first thing that popped into my head was the Chive. They really are cool knives, HERE they are priced low enough to have them custom engraved (about $20 from your friendly neighborhood mall kiosk) with the initials of your Groomsmen!

Kershaw makes "good" production knives, and the Chive certainly is a cool design, it's different enough to stand out from the everyday groomsman gifts, I'd be happy if I got one! (because, I have three flasks, and 2 giant beer mugs from previous weddings I was apart of)

edit But that Case is damn sexy too!

The designer's name is Ken Onion

There's a Chive and Shallot

Kershaw's always good. Be sure to get a half-serrated blade, and it's very handy if it's an automatic, one-handed opening is helpful in a pinch.

I own a half-serrated one of these that has served me well:
Ken Onion Chive

What's great about the above knife is how non-threatening it is, people don't think you're a creep for carrying one.

This is a good knife too, it's just a bit longer and scarier:
Ken Onion Leek

Currently trying to cut some scraps using this knife and i'm having to do multiple passes to get a single cut. I've seen some Olfa Rotary Knifes thrown around and a Kirigashi but i'm not sure. Any advice?

Kershaw Cryo MODEL 1555TI 49.90 EUR on amazon.de

Kershaw Cryo MODEL 1555TI 22.30 USD/18.95 EUR on amazon.com


available here at an austrian shop for 77,90 EUR


in this case it's a chinese made Kershaw, but kind of a standard go to knive in that price range.

For US made:

Kershaw Blur for 89,95 EUR at amazon.de

Kershaw Blur for 44.95 USD/38.20 EUR at amazon.com

I'd go with a Kershaw. Good quality for the price. The Blur is a good knife, I have one. A Kershaw Leak is also a great knife. It's much more concealable.

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Onion-Black-Smooth-Folding/dp/B0009VCA0I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398115825&sr=8-2&keywords=Kershaw+Blur

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Onion-Black-Smooth-Folding/dp/B0009VCA0I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1397301659&sr=8-2&keywords=blur+knife

my edc is the kershaw blur, but I have the one with the serrated edge and I love it, its perfect in my opinion.

I bought 3 assisted opening knives:

• Leek - Ken Onion
  
• Flash II - SOG
  
• Some junky piece of shit - Smith & Wesson
  
  I'm not 100% satisfied with any of them. I like the SOG the best, but all of them have annoying locks on them that defeat the entire purpose of an auto opening knife. The purpose is to open them quickly with one hand. Well if the safety keeps getting turned on in your pocket then you end up fiddling with them.
  
  My brother on the other hand has a Ken Onion Black Blur and that seems to be a really good knife.

is s30v worth the $20 more?

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Onion-Black-Smooth-Folding/dp/B0009VCA0I/

vs

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Knife-Steel-Blade-SpeedSafe/dp/B0015ZXCT0/

Picked up a Kershaw Blur maybe a week or two ago. Kershaw's SpeedSafe opening is smooth as butter and the blade locks well into place with zero movement.

There's a version with a S30V blade for about $20 more. Overall, I don't have a negative thing at all to say about the Blur.

If you want spring assisted I'd highly suggest you look at the Kershaw Blur. It's spring assisted and only about $50. I think you can get it in S30V for a little more though. I've had it for awhile and it's held up really well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009VCA0I/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_pre_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not sure about the specific's but it's this one. I saw it cheaper on amazon so I hope I did good haha

In terms of pocketknives for every day carry I usually have my Kershaw Ken Onion Blur on me, which is a 3.4" assisted open lockblade and is perfectly legal to carry in your pocket. It's by far my favorite cheap-ish pocketknife I've ever owned.

That being said I carry it because I need it at work frequently, not for defense. Frankly carrying a knife for defense is a dumb idea and you're way better off just buying pepper spray if that's what you want a knife for.

Amazon acts as an escrow, so of course the money hasn't even been withdrawn from my account yet since it wasn't shipped out. If you look on an Amazon price [history] (http://camelcamelcamel.com/Kershaw-Onion-Black-Smooth-Folding/product/B0009VCA0I?context=browse) the knife has dropped to as low as $30 while being fulfilled by Amazon, so $15 isn't that extraordinary. And as I've stated earlier, it's not a mistake as much as we all want to believe that. There's no reason a shop would open for five days, take hundreds of orders for a vast array of items, and cancel all of them while changing shop name at the same time. And as stated earlier as well, on the Complaints Board (a place to check online stores for legitimacy via reviews) all of the complaints all follow the same fishy pattern.

Clippers? Do you mean nail clippers? Because those are incredibly uncommon on multitools. I can't think of one off the top of my head that has one.

The other tools all show up on the Vic Classic and the Leatherman Style CS, Micra, and Style. None of those have pliers, though. You didn't mention them, but if you want pliers, a knife, and tweezers on the same tool I think the Gerber Dime is one of the rare few (only?) to do that. Despite being Gerber, I hear it's OK, but take that with a grain of salt; I've never used one.

EDIT: Misplaced an "a".

This is my preferred knife/multitool for backpacking. It has everything I need at a small weight. I like the scissors for most things, the knife for slicing cheese, the nail file for cleaning my nails and the tweezers for if I get a splinter.


https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Micra%C2%AE-Multi-Tool-Stainless-Steel/dp/B000JCN0FG/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1465912636&sr=1-1&keywords=leatherman+-+micra

I do not have 100 karma (you know what to do), but I would like to submit an entry nonetheless. A Leatherman Micra, please.

https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Micra/dp/B000JCN0FG/?tag=parametrek-20

Looks like a pretty useful little tool for a altoid kit. Less than 20 bucks on Amazon.

You could upgrade your Razor to Leatherman Micra or possibly a Leathermand squirt.

LEATHERMAN - Micra Keychain Multitool with Spring-Action Scissors and Grooming Tools, Stainless Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCN0FG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SYX2Db6S1KMCN

LEATHERMAN - Squirt PS4 Keychain Multitool with Spring-Action Scissors and Aluminum Handles, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032Y2OT6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rZX2DbQEYNZT3

Could go classic with Victorinox SD and make it even more streamlined with a Mermaid or Galaxy pattern.

Galaxy Classic SD Swiss Army Knife by Victorinox https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079F2QXQP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_U2X2Db84Z188Q

https://www.bladehq.com/item--Victorinox-Classic-SD-Swiss-Army--99540

Even more streamlined you could get a victorinox mini champ.

https://www.bladehq.com/item--Victorinox-Alox-Mini-Champ-Swiss--64501

Honestly, I have had two items very similar to this one and almost never use them. It sounds lazy, but it's generally too much of a pain to fish any of the tiny tools out of your wallet to do any job they could actually perform. Generally, it just ends up being faster/easier to find another tool or make due without. That being said, I use the Leatherman Micra I have attached to my keychain on a daily basis. It's got better craftsmanship than any credit card multi-tool you'll buy, and the fact that it's all one piece makes it easier to use IMO. Plus it's not that expensive, so why not just splurge and get something nicer? Link below if you're interested.

http://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-64010101K-Micra-Multi-tool/dp/B000JCN0FG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333398657&sr=8-1

You're sort of in between price ranges. If you're careful, you can get some decent knock-offs and some of the smaller genuine products in the $10-$30 range (Leatherman Micra for the win), and for $70 or more you can get all kinds of good stuff (I've seen some Beltrame stilettos in this neighborhood), but there's a bit of a valley in between. To further complicate things, engraving can add a lot to that price, and if you're talking about a knife or multitool that's physically small, there tends to be a good chance it will get lost.

My suggestion would be to either bump into a higher price range, or go for the smaller multitool and some lingerie.

Utility key sucks. Only decent tool on is the micro phillips.

Some examples of keychain Multitools.

Victorinox Rambler

Leatherman Micra

Leatherman Squirt

SOG Crosscut

Ask me if you have any questions.