(Part 2) Best computer cables & adapters according to redditors
We found 2,012 Reddit comments discussing the best computer cables & adapters. We ranked the 201 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
![[2Pack] iXCC USB Type C to USB 3.0 Type A Adapter, Charge and Sync Cable, On The Go (OTG Host Cable) for Type-C Supported Devices (6 Inch)](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41qdKoxCxVL.jpg)
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but would a portable style dock like this be safer?
Since OP mentioned that one of the key flaws of the 3rd party docks is the non standard USB-C connector, this style that is not designed to be easy to slide in and out should be using a standard non custom USB-C connector.
I can't speak for the power negotiation part of this particular product though, just using it as an example of one that would fix the non standard connector part of the issue.
What's with the Amazon links being attached to a Youtube link?
For those looking for clean links:
EDIT: OP clarified why the links are buried in Youtube links since this post.
You don’t need a bunch of dongles. There are hundreds of options that combine all of them in to one.
I went with this Satechi adapter because it has anything I could need. They have cheaper versions with less ports too.
I also grabbed two of these Anker adapters in case I just wanted to plug in a single cable.
With these two options I can plug in 99% of accessories that I will ever need.
I went with the pro gaming elite bundle and it's a game changer.
I also bought this ravpower 26800 powerbank which the case was specifically made to fit and it fits like a glove.
It can also fit a spare set of joycons (complete with the bumpers attached), an 8bit sn30pro, this portable dock, and this small charger, complete with all cables required except the hdmi cable.
Full disclosure, that dock and compact charger works with latest switch firmware, but the dock has died once already and was replaced under warranty by the manufacturer. If I were to do it again I'd probably switch to the bionic all in one dock that includes charger, hdmi cable, and everything.
Edit: Bonus: I also attached a pro controller to the unit via this molded controller case attached to the satisfy case via the provided carabiner - or I would if this particular part of my setup wasn’t stolen.
Right, DVI-I has both digital and analog signals. DVI-D lacks a analog signal. You'll need an active converter. By active, this means there's a DAC used to convert the digital signal to analog. A regular adapter won't work. You should also notice it requires power, in this case from a microUSB cable.
They also make DP to VGA converters
Biggest question I have is why two desktops?
I can't speak to the room layout since you need those doors. However, If your monitors have the ability and you use both gaming machines yourself, I personally would do the following:
Do you have access to the computer? If so how much access?
You could install a simple key-logger that runs in the background and logs every keystroke made, then check the logs and you will have his password.
If you don't have that much access to the computer then you need to remove a couple screws pull out the hard drive and install it in another computer as a secondary hard drive. Once you locate/remove the hard drive in his computer it's as easy as using a tool like this http://www.amazon.com/sabrent-Converter-Supply-Activity-USB-DSC5/dp/B000HJ99DI to hook it up to another computer.
If you still can't access the files after doing that, then you need to hire a professional. PM me with any questions.
get one of these it's not a fancy enclosure or anything but it'll allow you to get the data off pretty much any drive in existence.
Hi Microsoft specifically recommends these adapters:
USB 3.0 Type C to HDMI (with Thunderbolt 3 support):
Source:
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/4039260/windows-10-mixed-reality-pc-hardware-guidelines
I think the headset cables are long enough to reach to the other side of the laptop to plug into the USB 3.0 A port - but a 3-foot USB 3.0 extension cord would be OK to use to optimize cable management. Keeping the adapters simple is probably a good bet as USB-type-C compatibility is ironed out. I recommend staying away from cheap, off-brand multi-function usb-type-C hubs that have hdmi+ethernet+usb ports all-in-one.
VGA uses analog signal while most modern GPUs/displays only use digital signal.
For DVI, there used to be three main types - DVI-A for analog signal, DVI-D for digital signal and DVI-I which was able to transfer both analog and digital.
So what EVGA means is imho that there are many VGA to DVI-I or DVI-A adapters, but it won't work.
If you really want to do this, you need an adapter with an active electronic component that will convert the signal. Something like this - https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Active-DVI-D-Adapter-Converter/dp/B01FL7H7HA unfortunately, these things are finnicky so even an active convertor might not work properly.
OK so I heard the Quest has a cable that is USB-C male on both ends.
Which means to plug it into a PC you need a USB-C female to USB 3.0 male.
Like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079LYHNSR
You just described DVI. DVI can also be used with HDMI with a cheap adapter.
You would need active logic to pull that off, and you aren't going to do that with the voltages from a 3.5mm Jack.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B079LYHNSR/
You could use something like this. The headphones should show up as a separate audio device on the computer. However, this may but work if the computer is really locked down.
I have This one that looks similar and does work with my switch as well as my lenovo laptop and android phone. It does need to be powered (recommended to use the original AC adapter that comes with the switch) to output hdmi from the switch.
Would it be better to purchase this (Refurbished) Insignia Switch Dock for $25, or this Portable Switch Dock for $26? I know a lot of people are concerned with some docks bricking the Switch, but a lot of people are saying the Insignia Dock is compatible with the Switch -- not sure about the Portable one though. What do you guys think?
My Switch has been charging really really slow. I left it over night charging and when I woke up it was only at 29%. I was looking through the setting for tops 2 minutes and it dropped another percent while charging, with the lowest brightness. I am using the cable provided with the pro controller since I didn’t want to bring the main usb with me. I also have been using a 3rd party dock cable that can be found here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JK9DFKH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_sR2SCbG4DE3Y2 . I’m not sure whats causing the problem in this situation.
I got you! (I don't know if this is it)
Belkin F3U200-08INCH DB15 8-Inch USB Joystick Adapter for SideWinder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000067RIV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_URMOybRDCDVCZ
Yes, something like this 3-pin to 4-pin molex adapter will do the trick. Note that this will only power the fan, though, and will not give RPM monitoring or control to the motherboard, so the fan will just run at full speed all the time.
According to Newegg the DVI port is DVI-D with HDCP support, meaning an adapter like this one should work
No HDMI port... FYI.
~~Grab one of these for $2 + Free Shipping. Has good reviews as far as I can tell.
http://www.amazon.com/Generic-GC2080-Adapter-Plated-Connector/dp/B000FUVNX8~~
Edit: see below for proper connector
yup. Both are digital signals so it's not much of an issue
https://www.amazon.com/Generic-GC2080-Adapter-Plated-Connector/dp/B000FUVNX8
This should help clarify what he means by dual link.
As for double ended he means it's a DVI-D-to-DVI-D cable as opposed to a DVI-D-to-HDMI.
And yes, it would need some sort of adapter.
No, that was not the adapter. That is a splitter (one output to two displays). You would need a DVI to HDMI adapter.
Depends on what type of hard drive it is. Is it a SATA drive? If so you can get a fairly inexpensive USB setup: http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Converter-Activity-Support-USB-DSC5/dp/B000HJ99DI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463397939&sr=8-1&keywords=sata+hd+to+usb
To get the data off, I use this sata to usb hub
Once the data is off, the OS would have to be reinstalled.
Its just a standard IDE drive. This device will alllow you to connect it to usb
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812232002
or http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-USB-DSC5-3-5-Inch-Converter-Adapter/dp/B000HJ99DI
Ow my! This is going to be awesome. Let me first answer your questions.
If something may sound "Chinese" to you, don't worry I will provide a lot of videos that probably explain what I type here (tomorrow).
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> The one I'm replacing is a Dell Dimension 8200 that's about 15 years old.
>> I've tried out hundreds of applications and have more than a dozen that I consider important enough that I'll have to figure out a way to transfer them and their data over to the new machine.
Okay, you're very likely still using IDE hard drives. These are old and we've by now replace those with much smaller SATA hard drives. SATA cables are much smaller and easier to manage and the SATA bus is also faster.
I can be sure that your oldie is taking a couple minutes to start up Windows, right?
Anyway, luckily you can buy devices these days that make transferring files over to a new PC or laptop very easy.
Sabrent USB 2.0 TO SATA/IDE. You plug the HDD with the data on into this device, then connect the USB cable to the system where you want to transfer the files too and tada! Depending on the size, it may take some time to write it all, but you can just let it sit and do it's thing no problem.
> Do you think I should wait for after Christmas sales or buy now?
Hard to tell, from what I've seen the last 2 years that I've been around. I never really noticed huge sales during any of the "sales" times. Of course there are exceptions and it's possible to find some very solid deals to save $50-200 on a $1000+ system. But I personally am not that convinced that it's "worth the wait". It's really hit or miss to find a product that you need on these sales.
The best thing to wait for is most often big shows or conventions. Such as CES (5th till 8th of January 2017), Computex (May 30th till 3rd of June 2017) and other smaller ones.
Because big companies like Intel, AMD, Nvidia, Asus, Corsair, EVGA, Samsung, etc. are often showing off new products or prototypes that come to the market right away or very quickly after those shows are done.
So with CES in less than a month, new products are very likely going to hit the market in about a month time. If you can wait for this, then it's certainly something to consider. However, I have no idea what comes out of it, most of these products are under NDA so we can mostly speculate and that's it.
Nvidia is going to very likely release their new flag ship gaming video card, the GTX1080Ti. But this is probably not worth buying for your use. It's going to be very expensive and almost half of your budget, which is just not worth it.
AMD is hopefully going to tell us more about their new CPUs codename Zen. They've given us some performance comparisons and a bit more specifications of their new 8 core CPUs, last Tuesday. But most of that was just confirming the most likely rumours that were floating around. No release date or prices yet, aside from "Q1'2017". Soo.. I hope that they'll tell us more on CES!
> California, USA
MicroCenter access? This one is in Tustin / Orange County. If it's within ~30/60 minutes drive it's certainly worth it to go there to save a good amount of money, especially the CPU and motherboards.
> I'll worry about the monitor, keyboard, and mouse later.
What kind of budget do you have in mind for this? We can help with suggestions here as well!
> If you could recommend a good all in one printer that would be nice too.
This is certainly not something we've got asked here often. But I have some experience with Printers. I am no expert tho!
In terms of my overal experience; Canon printers work just about fine enough, they're cheap and do their job.. most of the time. They do eat inkt like candy tho, but this is something most printers do.
HP is a brand I will avoid for Printers forever, bought a fairly expensive one that just would give me more problems than actually printing. The reviews on it where good enough to give it a shot, but I guess I got unlucky, support was terrible as well. It was all our fault! It was loud, sometimes "ate" the paper for no freaking reason and don't let me start about the inkt.
Replaced that one with a cheap Canon that's been working just about fine for more than a year.
However, the one brand that I trust and love, has been Brother. They're certainly capable of just doing it right! I've had a Brother printer at my previous job and it wasn't too cheap, but certainly worth the money. I am sure that that beast is still kicking and printing, faxing around like it's nobodies business!
So that's why I can recommend a Brother printer without much doubt: Brother MFC-L2700DW. It can also fax! As well as scan, copy & print even from your WiFi. You can connect the printer via WiFi to your router, which allows you to print with anything that the router can connect to, so you can print from PCs, laptops, tablets and even smartphones without needing to plug in any cable! Aside from the power cable of course.
> I want a RAID for backup
I am just going to say that RAID is redundancy, not backup! It's in the name: "Redundant Array of Inexpensive Disks".
While I understand that you call it backup, if your PC/PSU dies for some very odd reason, it could potentially kill both the HDDs that are in RAID at the same time and then you still lose all the files.
If you want to backup files, you should invest in a NAS (Network Arranged Storage) or a Cloud Storage. I personally don't feel comfortable putting sensitive data in a Cloud data center. But if it's nothing major, then feel free to use it. This means that when your house sets on fire and burns your PC & NAS, you'll still have files in the Cloud that you can access with any device.
But when you backup files to a NAS & cloud. It's very hard to lose data. RAIDs are good, but I don't recommend this often. Because once you start adding more than 2 HDDs, it's not going to be very valuable to RAID1 your HDDs (mirror). Thus then you should better look at RAID5/6 which is extremely straining on the motherboard it's storage chip and thus it's recommended to buy a RAID card. But those get expensive quickly, which is why I recommend a NAS!
I recommend to backup to a NAS (you can and most do use RAID here!) or a Cloud. It's the safest way to keep your digital valuable information alive.
> I have found that video on the motherboard is a nice feature to have when the graphics card decides to stop working the night before a deadline.
This is a shame, because for your use case. I would recommend a CPU that does not have on-board graphics. The whole platform does not have this.
But you can consider to buy a cheap $35 card and keep it out of the system in a box somewhere. In worst case scenario, you can use that when a video card suddenly dies.. However, video cards most often don't die suddenly, they'll start to show signs of "death" in terms of bad performance, overheating or just the screen getting artifacts.
> Ventilation matters more than color and I don't need any LED's or color coordinating.
Very true that ventilation is important, but even more importantly are dust filters and that you blow out any dust that does manages to get through with some compressed air every 3-6 months. This will keep a PC alive for much longer compared to.. this scary stuff.
Luckily most modern cases of today have good filters that prevent this from happening!
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Stop talking already and give me a suggestion!
Sorry, I'll work on this tomorrow. I have to get some more sleep first.
If all else fails, you can get one of these to retrieve what ever you want from the hard drive directly.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HJ99DI/
I have an Asus 1060 6GB. It is working with this HDMI cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/
I'm also using this USB extender: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/
But, the USB extension would involve the motherboard more than the video card.
Here's one that claims 1440p:
Link
No, this makes absolutely zero sense.
If you really need some way to plug a "lagacy display technology such as HDMI, DP, DVI" to a laptop that somehow has neither, an adapter such as this or this might help.
I bought a USB-C to USB 3.1 adapter, it works perfectly. I think it was $6 on amazon.
This is it - https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=3PS19SDCM55G6&keywords=usb-c+to+usb+adapter&qid=1550622323&s=gateway&sprefix=usb-c+to&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
You can purchase a USB Type-C to USB 3.1 Female adapter. They're quite inexpensive on Amazon.
Something like:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549344669&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+c+usb+adapter
Listening to the Cobalt now. It's probably better if one has no experience with the Dragonfly Red. Since I haven't used the DFR, I'm a good candidate to have a better experience with the Cobalt.
The exterior containment (chassis?) and the logic board are not attached to each other, so there's some movement of the - chassis? - wiggling. Doesn't seem to affect anything in my use. The 3.5mm jack and USB port are both solid and have no give - unless you compare it to the wiggling chassis. While the concern over this wiggle seems overblown to me, I also understand why the concern is justifiable. It seems like a problem that could have been avoided by better or more exact measuring.
Getting low enough volume is an issue, because I have to carefully manually adjust the volume to slightly less than the first step on both Android and iOS. It's a minor concern. This is something I have to do with the (fake) Beyerdyanmic Xelento and Alclair Electro. Less so with the iSine 10, which I can tolerate one more step. Oddly enough, I can adjust the volume higher with the IMR R2 Aten. I also tried the Cobalt with Monoprice Monolith M1060 V1, and was able to get to a good volume for me. No clipping, but as a low volume listener, I'm not going to be pushing it with my gear.
I like the Cobalt well enough, but will probably sell it eventually. Is it worth the retail price? No. I probably couldn't tell it from a volume matched iPhone dongle (I'm not joking). Fortunately, my confirmation bias has set in, so I'll be using it for a bit. Currently happily streaming Tool's 10,000 Days from an iPhone through the Cobalt to the R2 Aten. Listened to Lateralus twice with the same combo. To Cobalt's credit, it doesn't get very warm, even in my pocket for all that time. Still, don't think I'll be recommending the Cobalt to friends I want to keep. Certainly not at retail price.
Oh, I also used this Amazon Basics USB-C to USB adapter and found no difference between that and the Dragontail except color, size, and shape. Seems to be an adequate alternative for me.
I'll add my experience as well since I just went through this Friday (and I'm also a scala guy, who recently came from a mac). I'll add a quick note that my primary goal with the dual boot is to use Windows for occasional gaming and Linux as my primary driver 99% of the time.
a) I wiped the supplied windows and reinstalled windows clean. I thought about keeping the install, but a couple screens into the setup was a Mcafee screen with my email address pre-populated and noped right out of there and wiped the disk. I think with Windows especially it's valuable not having to deal with all the pre-installed software. All the drivers are available here:
http://www.dell.com/support/home/us/en/19/product-support/product/xps-15-9560-laptop/drivers
I recommend downloading them all and throwing them on a usb as the wireless card doesn't work out of the box in windows, just run all the installers after the install. Before running the install, I recommend disabling secure boot and setting the hard drive to 'ahci' in the BIOS, otherwise the installer won't be able to see the disk.
b) I also have a 1tb hard drive and decided on a new 50/50 split between the two operating systems. Games are very large, so I wanted plenty of space for my windows install, additionally my previous linux install only had about 250gb, so I know I won't have any issues with disk space. However, depending on your uses this may vary.
c) You can read & write the ntfs drive just fine, however I personally don't like sharing underlying file systems between operating systems. I use a combination of dropbox and git, however I have almost no use cases that require any meaningful sharing of data between the two operating systems.
d) I use arch linux personally with XMonad. Arch linux is nice because you always get pretty up to date software and it allows you easy access to most software via the AUR. Since your a functional guy like me, you may enjoy XMonad which is configured using Haskell. At the start there is a steep learning curve, but in the end you end up with a highly customized window manager that you can bend to your will in any way you wish. Otherwise I'd recommend using XFCE or Mate, both of which are lightweight. I personally don't care for unity or gnome 3 at all.
e) cool, me too
f) Some general notes I'd add:
Good luck! If I think of anything else I'll add it.
I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XNS7W63/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
but even a straight USB-C to HDMI cable works (without charging though).
Mobo - Biostar Motherboard TB250-BTC
CPU - Intel 3.70 GHz Core i3-6100
Risers - Mailiya 6-Pack PCIe Dual Chip PCI-E 16x to 1x Powered Riser Adapter Card w/ 60cm USB 3.0 Extension Cable & 6 Pin PCI-E to SATA Power Cable
PSU - Corsair AXi Series, AX1200i
On the motherboard, you can fiddle with all the BIOS settings regarding mining, etc. I got hung up because I chose "6 cards" for mining. It did a weird POST screen and wouldn't boot. I put it on "More than 6" and it works fine (even though I only have 6).
On the Power Supply, you can just get any PSUs or any 1200W. I did notice it was pulling just over 1000W the other night but I didn't check which algorithm it was doing. There is another Corsair 1200W for $50 less than mine. I don't know the difference, but it wasn't available when I ordered, so I just threw down for $300.
Good luck! Let me know if you run into trouble and I'll look at my settings or whatever.
> I use wireless headphones how do I use them with the headset as many setup videos have recommend
you wont have to change anything and can just use your wireless headset as you do now. the headsets have a headphone jack but you are not forced to use it, the headset will just be an additional audio device in the sound control panel list like you probably have many other ones there already you dont use.
when you install the headset and software you may just have to select your wireless headset again as the default device.
the only other stuff you gotta think about as others have said here you will want to get the common pluggable brand bluetooth 4 adapter if you arent already covered and you also might want to check if your GPU's HDMI port is version 2.0 or earlier. earlier versions will either not work or limit you to 60hz instead of the 90hz the headset can do.
that was the issue when I got my lenovo MR headset I found my GPU was only HDMI 1.4 (radeon r9 290) so I had to get the Displayport to HDMI 2.0 adapter. (Club3D CAC-1080 Active DisplayPort 1.4 to HDMI 2.0b).
This is correct. DisplayPort to HDMI directly would be limited to HDMI1.4 speeds.
I used a Club3D CAC-1080 Active DisplayPort 1.4 to HDMI 2.0b HDR Adapter on my R9 Fury and it worked with a 6-foot HDMI2.0 cable to get HDR, but there was occasional flicker (I think that's right on the brink of what DP1.2 can do). However, with a 15-foot HDMI2.0 cable, I could only do 8-bit non-HDR from my R9 Fury, so I'd keep that in mind.
More fast speed use DP 1.4 to HDMI 2.0 4k 60hz cable.
https://www.amazon.com/CAC-1080-DisplayPort-Adapter-displays-4096x2160/dp/B077JB28KM/
I'm using this, and it works without problems for me.
I have one of those non-name brand USB C hubs from Amazon that works fine (DesertWest brand ?!). However, I actually don't use it much anymore since I found these USB to USB-C adapters. They're small and I keep them on my USB plugs so it's no big deal and it doesn't take up space or add cords. Here is one example: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Basesailor-Compatible-Chargers-Standard/dp/B079LYHNSR/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+to+usb+c+adapter&qid=1554209975&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Also, these adapters don't get warm like the hub would. I was always skeptical about plugging power into a cheap hub anyway!
Easily solved...
http://www.amazon.com/game-Adapter-Rockfire-RM-203-gameport/dp/B004HAX7OU
En amazon esta u$s 19, no se cuanto tardará en llegar, pero lo podes comprar con tarjeta.
Edit: acá hay uno mas barato: http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-F3U200-08INCH-Joystick-Adapter-SideWinder/dp/B000067RIV/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1JHGTV5ZF6N6WREG6RAZ
These are called 4 pin molex connectors. You wont find sockets on your motherboard to plug them into. Your PSU might have one or two though.
You have one in and one out on the fans coz you can daisy chain them. As in if your PSU has 1 4-Pin-Molex out, connect the fan to that, and you can connect a second fan to 1st fan's out.
There might be converters from motherboard pin to 4-pin-molex, let me look.
EDIT: here
Alright, so just hook up the case fan directly to the motherboard and see if it can start up. Maybe the adapter is defective.
I should have been more specific, but I actually meant this kind of molex adapter.
You should be able to hook up the case fan to PWR/SYS fan header on the motherboard, if its the small 3 pin connector and it isn't necessary to use an adapter in this case to plug into the PSU.
If you need more help reply or PM me.
So far as I can tell all those parts are compatible. However I'd look into maybe getting a different motherboard. The one you picked is fine, but if you'd be willing to pay an extra $25 you could get this one. It's got 4 slots for RAM instead of two, for a maximum of 32gb instead of 16. It also has support for USB 3.0, and SATA 6gb/s. That HDD you picked does 6.0gb/s, but your mobo only has 3.0gb/s so you wouldn't be fully utilizing that it.
As for the USB 3.0, that mobo I listed has two ports on the back, but also an internal connector for the front pannel of the case. However the case you picked doesn't have USB 3.0 ports, so you might look into getting one that does. This is the case I'm using. After the mail-in rebate it's a little cheaper than the one you listed, and it has two USB 3.0 ports on the front which is nice.
However, if you do decide to get that case and that mobo I should warn you about a few things. If not, then disregard this paragraph. First of all, the four fans that come with the case are really nice in terms of air flow, but that mobo has nowhere to plug them in, so you'll have to plug the fans directly into the PSU instead. That's not a big deal or anything, but you'll need to buy an adapter to do that. PSU plugs are called molex, and the fan plugs are just called three-pin (although some fans use four-pin etc.) I went to my local Microcenter because I didn't want to wait for shipping (didn't discover this until mid build), and they had one that was four 4-pin to one molex, which was perfect. It should look something like this, (the molex is the bigger plug, and the three-pin is the smaller one). Try and see if you can't find one that doesn't have an extra molex on it, and has extra three-pins just so you have less cable in there. Also, that case isn't ideal for mounting SSD, because of where it places the 2.5" mounts (won't affect you since you don't have a SSD). It was also a bit hard to install the optical drive in the top 5.25" slot simply because you have to push in two pegs on the side to remove the 5.25" panel, but there are little plastic things in the way of the very top one. I had to bend the panel a bit to get them out (also not a big deal, because you'll probably end up throwing that panel away afterwards anyway).
Also, don't just take my word for it. When you've modified your build, or decided that the one you have is good, make a new post so more people see it. I'm not the best in terms of giving advice on the best bang for your buck in terms of GPU and CPU, and others could help you there. ALtough i do have almost that same CPU. I've got the intel i3 2120. Here's my build in case you were wondering.
**EDIT*** Ok, so here is the exact cable I was talking about. Microcenter says they are out of stock, but you get the idea of what I was talking about.
Did the fan come with the case? If so check the case box and you should find a Molex-adapter for the fan(something like this or like this) so it will run off the power supply. It'll be a bit louder but if the front fan is the same as the rear fan it will still be pretty damn quiet even at full blast, at least my Spectres were.
better alternative is HDMI to DVI adapter
No, only DisplayPort connections can run multiple displays off one port.
HDMI to DVI adapters definitely exist:
http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Adapter-Plated-Connector-Female/dp/B000FUVNX8
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102908
faster than the 550ti for $10 more after rebate
that hard drive is made for laptops, it'll work just fine but you'll need an adapter plate to get it to fit in the case
you're buying a previous generation CPU and motherboard, not a problem so i'm just letting you know. you can get an i5 3570k and a z77 motherboard for a little bit more if you're so inclined
the HAF 912 is a cheap case disguised with molded plastic, the NZXT source 210 elite is a better case in every way for around the same price
power supply is overkill and kinda expensive, the corsair CX430 is $22 after rebate and will power your PC just as well
any video card that has DVI out will be able to output to HDMI with an adapter that usually comes in the box. HDMI and DVI have the same pins, so adapter (if you don't get one) are like $1 online: link. won't output audio though, so you'll need a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable if you don't have one already
Get an HDMI to DVI adapter? $2.19 on Amazon.
That should work perfectly fine for what you want.
Just remove the harddrive from your non-working laptop; connect the USB end to a working PC and the sata end to the hard drive you just removed and you should be able to access the hard drive as you would any other attached HDD/SSD.
You may have to take ownership of the folders (including other sub-folders as well, but that is also pretty straight forward. If you do run into that issue and need help, just ask.
Personally I use something like this as I am always having to access data for people whose computers have become damaged for whatever reason. It covers both 2.5" and 3.5" SATA and IDE. But if this is just a one-off data recovery mission, then the one you have linked to will do just fine.
You can also get an IDE to USB cable.
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-USB-DSC5-3-5-Inch-Converter-Adapter/dp/B000HJ99DI
The cable plugs into the motherboard in the white connector towards the left. Then the cable plugs into the hard drive, there's a latch on the top of the cable cable that should line up with the opening on the hard drive, plus it's keyed so you shouldn't have to many issues. The molex cable is sided as well, like a trapazoid so it will only fit in one way. For the power supply, you can use the old one to power just the hard drive but I thought you said the current power supply had a molex connector. If you still don't think you're able to do it right, you might be better off getting a IDE to USB adapter like this. I have one myself and it works well, I kept the box and it stays in a drawer when I'm not using it.
You should be fine with any old pata>usb adapter.
If they're from a windows xp machine, 99% positive they will be NTFS. You'll have no trouble at all reading them from any windows machine.
If they weren't failing, recovering the files is as simple as copying them to another storage device.
As for viruses, its nearly impossible to infect your PC just by having the disks plugged in. When you install them, before opening any files, just use windows defender to scan them manually if you want some peace of mind.
If the disk is encrypted, well you're probably shit out of luck.
Oh that's easy, they sell Sata/IDE to USB converters for less then $20 all over the place. They power up the drive and everything, no big deal. I got one for the same reason being modern PCs don't tend to have IDE anymore.
I use this one but I sure all of the different brands are more or less the same
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HJ99DI
Every USB port and GPU will function differently. The USB wattage draw is high enough to drop the voltage some across the cable. Some USB ports start out at 5.2-5.3 volts and they work better. Most "front" USB 3.0 ports already have a 18-24 inch extension and don't perform as well. The 10ft cables below work perfectly for me on a high end x299 rig with the 5v USB 3.0 and 3.1 that tap off the 12v bus. On another rig but the same odyssey + Headset the sound cuts out.
These are the best for for me.
Cable Matters USB 3.0 Extension Cable in Blue 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/
If the 10 foot has problems for you the 3ft or 6ft might work. Try the Cable on Each USB port first. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/
AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/
Also the controllers need high voltage batteries. If you use really good Panasonic Oneloop Pro's even they can give problems. When those NiMh's get down to about 1.2-12.5 volts (Even with 60% charge left) The odyssey can trigger a low battery warning and switch to 60hz mode degrading performance. https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-BK-3HCCA4BA-eneloop-Pre-Charged-Rechargeable/dp/B00JHKSL28/
The way around this is to run 1.6V NiZn Rechargeable cells instead. https://www.amazon.com/2500mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries-Battery-Charger/dp/B00WTRSTAU/
Thank you!
Yes all devices were recognized as 3.0. Here are the extensions:
USB
HDMI
I've got a 980Ti and I just bought these two extenders, both work fine for me.
10ft usb
10ft hdmi
If you do go down that route you might have to try several different cables to get them to work it seems to be specific to people's Motherboard and GPU. For me, 980ti, this USB 3.0, HDMI and HDMI Repeater worked. Regardless of what you choose definitely pick up a HDMI Repeater or a HDMI to DVI dongle, it seems to be the key factor to get extensions to work for a bunch of peeps.
I've been using 3 of these hung off a trashcan for 4-5 years now with no trouble. I think the key is that they're active
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Supporting-Technology/dp/B00EDSZYII/
​
Make sure you've read this article, there are a few caveats when using multiple displays on a trashcan and all these could be a source of your problem:
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT202801
Is it Mini display port or full size?
Mini: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDSZYII/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453060532&sr=8-3&keywords=active+displayport+dvi
Full size: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDT01TO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453060532&sr=8-1&keywords=active+displayport+dvi
Make sure you read the max resolution on the cables or adapters. I almost bought the 3 in one but I have a 2650x1440 monitor and that adapters max resolution is 1920x1200. All the devices listed so far are actually. This one http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-HDMI®-Adapter/dp/B006F8CPPE will do 2650x1440 if you need it. This one will do 3840x2160 if going to hdmi http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters®-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDSZYII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451112979&sr=8-1&keywords=mini+display+port+active+adapter. When searching search for mini display port active adapter.
Dammit, you're right, sorry.
Just checked my 1440p monitor with a cheap adapter, doesn't work above 1080p.. and it seems to be a limit of passive cables. I've found looking for apple accessories is cheaper, since they used mDP for years, this is a pretty cheap one with good reviews: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K0UDJFI
I'm not sure if it can do 60fps for you though, since it's limited to 30Hz at 4K. Your monitor seems to have a Displayport connector, a mini Displayport to Displayport cable would probably be the better choice, since there's no need for an active component.
You can use this Mini DisplayPort to HDMI adapter. DisplayPort can carry audio, so it will pass that through the HDMI cable.
If you read the specs of the Mini monitor it only displays up to HD in quality.
You'll need other hardware to get it to display 4k.
If your television set doesn't have a thunderbolt input, you're going to need 4k hardware to get from your Mac to it. None of it is cheap (expect to pay about $1k for something like this ultrastudio4k
You could try a Tbolt to 4k adpater. This is cheap and easy...
But it isn't truly what you should look at. Technically nothing is right on connecting to that TV for evaluative purposes. Using the $15 adpater (which is where I'd start btw) means that Premiere is outputting it as if it was another 'monitor' - wrong color space, OS interfereing with added color management.
But technically, color fidelity isn't important, because you're going to a consumer TV. Just try to get it 'close' to what you're looking at on screen. You'll never get it to match.
I have the exact same laptop and had the same issues as you mentioned. I almost gave up, but getting a good 4k mini DisplayPort to HDMI adapter worked. Thanks!
The one I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0UDJFI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
How are you connecting it? My T440s with base graphics runs my ultrawide like a champ with a MDP -> HDMI adapter. I used one of the HDMI adapters and an HDMI cable that specifically advertise compatibility with ultrawide resolutions, but I suspect any newish HDMI cable and adapter would work.
​
FWIW this is the adapter I got and this is the hdmi cable
i've added a 3rd monitor for some of the people I work with using a usb 3.0 displayport adapter
Here is an active adapter. I have no idea how good it works, but this is what you need.
https://www.amazon.com/gofanco%C2%AE-DVI-D-Active-Converter-compatibility/dp/B00RWFT8NG
You're going to need something like this then.
https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Pro-DVI-D-Active-Converter/dp/B00RWFT8NG?th=1
The 1080 dropped support for VGA so you'll need an active adapter to convert the signal from digital to analog.
I had the same problem when I bought my 1050 Ti. Basically, all you need is a VGA to DVI-D "active" converter, something like this.
That's a passive adapter, and won't work AFAIK (without the 4 pins around the bar, there's no analog signal at all to pass to the VGA side).
You need something like this, an active adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Pro-DVI-D-Active-Converter/dp/B00RWFT8NG
There may be an active DVI-D to VGA cable but I haven't looked in awhile, but a normal Active adapter should work - https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Pro-DVI-D-Active-Converter/dp/B00RWFT8NG
You were using a DVI Passive to VGA adapter which is why it doesn't work. Need an Active DVI-D to vga.
Looks like the same quality, but whats wrong with just buying something like this and using whatever cable you'd normally use...
https://www.amazon.com/iXCC-Adapter-Charge-Supported-Devices/dp/B017TJN22C/ref=sr_1_3?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1520936095&sr=1-3&keywords=android+usb+c+otg
It's way cheaper and it's the same damn thing. (First thing I found on amazon for usb c otg cable.)
Like this?
iXCC USB Type C to USB 3.0 Type A Adapter, Charge and Sync Cable, On The Go (OTG Host Cable) for Type-C Supported Devices (6 Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017TJN22C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5iEtybYM86TR3
https://smile.amazon.com/Plugable-Chromebook-Thunderbolt-Supports-3840x2160/dp/B01FIVSC6Y
Not at all.
The USB-C port on the Apple TV is for servicing purposes only. Not for regular users to use.
Even if it was a fully functional USB-C port, USB-C isn't magic.
It will only support what the host device actually supports.
Currently, there are no USB-C to HDMI 2.1 dongles on the market.
However, even when they become available, I guarantee you will not be able to just plug them into the Apple TV and get HDMI 2.1.
You must have seen HDMI 2.0 dongles like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Compatible-Thunderbolt-Supports-Resolutions/dp/B01FIVSC6Y/
Dongles like this are not magic. They will not automatically work with any USB-C device. They will only work with devices that specifically support sending a HDMI 2.0 signal over the USB-C port.
The host device need to be electrically wired to do this. The Apple TV 4K is not.
Additionally, the graphics in the device need to be capable of outputting a HDMI 2.1 signal. The A10X in the Apple TV 4K is not capable of that.
If your TV is HDMI, get this. As for the laptop, default suggestions are
ThinkPad P51:
Lenovo Corporate Store (33% off): Link
Review: Link
Precision 7520:
Dell Store: Link
Dell Outlet Store (Significant discount, filter by 'New): Link
Review (for last year's 7510): Link
And the HP ZBook 15 as the final option.
All 3 options come with a 4-lane TB3 that can output 4K at 60 Hz easily. Solid build quality on all options. And no, not all HPs are junk.
display port to hdmi adapter I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FIVSC6Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
does full 4k 60hz 4:4:4
Then I just paired it with an amazon basic cable 18gbps
Nope, the 1060 is purely DVI-D.
If your monitor only has VGA input then this adapter should work. I assume the monitor came with a VGA cable.
The OSSC is the best and probably most affordable solution and works 100% fine with a cheap Active DVI/HDMI to VGA converter. I have the one below.
https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Active-DVI-D-Converter-Black/dp/B01FL7H7HA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1487897614&sr=1-3&keywords=dvi+vga+active
It offers lag free upscaling at 2x, 3x, 4x, or 5x(1600x1200!) with the latest firmware. I's pretty incredible with the clarity you can get on 240p at 5x. I have mine setup to a HP p1130 (rebranded Sony Trinitron) for SNES, Genesis, Saturn, Xbox, and Wii using SCART and component where applicable. I then use my Dreamcast w/ VGA box and XBox 360 w/ VGA cable on the second input.
Don't waste your time with a Gnobes GBS-8200/8220. They don't properly process 240p (it considers it 480i material), end up with a lot of artifacts, and uses a scaler that introduces lag as well. Supposedly using a SLG will mask the visual issues a bit, but it still isn't ideal and once you add in the SLG to the GBS-8200 cost and cable adapter you start to get pretty close to a used XRGB2/3. I started out with a GBS-8200 but wasn't happy with the quality.
Ideally I'd try to get on the list to buy an OSSC. Another good option is a used XRGB2 or XRGB3 (B1mode) in line-double mode which takes 240p and outputs in 480p without introducing any lag. They work about as well as the OSSC, but can't do the higher integer multipliers that the OSSC can. I have an XRGB3 that I got before I was up on the OSSC purchase list and it was just as effective on a VGA monitor. Your only issue might be finding one, but they pop up on ebay and shmups forum for sale section from time to time. They could be less than an OSSC if you find a deal.
There are passive dvi to vga adapters, however your graphics card might not support them. Check to see if your graphics card supports DVI-I or DVI-A. If it does support it then there will be no loss vs a VGA cable.
Here is one such adapter.
If your GPU only supports DVI-D (Digital) then you'll need a more expensive active adapter. There depending on the adapter, there will be some difference.
Here's a cheap version (and clicking on the usb power cable will point you to a more "compatible" and expensive one).
That will not work. All new RX-4xx and GTX 10x0 cards have removed VGA support, so they require active converter.
Example:
https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Active-DVI-D-Converter-Black/dp/B01FL7H7HA
Yes there are. They're called DVI-D to VGA Active Adapters.
They look like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Active-DVI-D-Converter-Black/dp/B01FL7H7HA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480524729&sr=8-3&keywords=dvi-d+to+vga+active
If you're using a controller with a standard USB plug (USB-A),which most USB controllers are, you'll need an adapter that's USB-A to USB-C adapter. The Switch Pro Controller for example uses a USB-C cable to connect as a wired controller, so you can use a USB-C to USB-C cable to connect it to the Switch in tabletop mode.
Edit: I'd actually be interested to see if something like this would work for using multiple USB wire controllers in table top mode.
The HP-A4's RCA plugs are for sending music out to speakers, not for sending your music into the amp. For android phones, you'll need a USB-B 2.0 to USB-A cable and a USB-A to USB-C adapter assuming you're using a phone with USB-C like Samsung S8, or Note8, or a USB-A to Micro-USB adapter if you're using a older/cheaper android phone like Samsung S7, J3, etc.
USB-B to USB-A cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK
USB-A to USB-C Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYYT0/
USB-A to Micro USB Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LN3LQKQ/
No get USB c to USB a it should work and could connect your headset through charging port of controller. AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB 3.1 Gen1 Female Adapter Cable - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYYT0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_guwVDb0W1SS9X
I'm not sure what was wrong with your previous adapter, but this one looks like the right type:
https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0/
The details indicate that it can be used with a USB type-A flash drive, keyboard, or mouse.
Using this one
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01GGKYYT0?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image
But is that any different to the Anker one? You got a link?
Yes, plug in an adapter like this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGKYYT0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and route it under the Vive cable through the channel in the bottom, like this
https://ibb.co/epuHmn
I do a lot of the driver packaging, Windows image building at work, and test lots of NUCs, Surfaces, MacBooks, and other machines. my daily driver is a Surface Pro 3 using Surface Dock with two miniDP to DP cables (like the one you linked) driving two HP Z30i displays. In all the troubleshooting that I have ever done we have seen cables of questionable build quality sometimes work on a PC, but not work on a Mac, and the other way round. It took trying a handful of brands from our vendor before we found cables and adapters that worked reliably.
If your display came with a DP to DP cable, you might try a miniDP to DP adapter like this
https://sgcdn.startech.com/005329/media/products/gallery_large/MDP2DPMF6IN.MAIN.JPG
I think a USB-C to DP cable might be more trouble than it is worth, though I am wrong on occassion.
edit: co-worker had one of these https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Thunderbolt-Compatible-DisplayPort/dp/B01K51GM46 at his desk, tested it with my skull canyon nuc and worked without issue.
All it takes is a bit of Google-foo https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01K51GM46
Note that it will have to be an active HDMI 2.0 adapter. Passive adapters will not work. I'm using a combination of a cheap USB-C to Displayport dongle and the Plugable Displayport to HDMI 2.0 active adapter (https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8) to drive a 43" 4K Samsung at 4K60Hz from my XPS 9350, and it works beautifully. There are a couple of combined adapters now available as well, which adapt directly from USB-C to HDMI 2.0 and should do the trick, though I haven't used any of them myself. Here's one: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Thunderbolt-DisplayPort-Incompatible/dp/B01K51GM46
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01K51GM46/
$19.99
From this article
https://uploadvr.com/oculus-rift-s-valve-index-no-hdmi/
Thunderbolt 3 is essentially a enhanced version of USB-C. Which means that USB-C devices will work like normal. So all you need is a USB-C to Display Port cable or adapter.
Cable
Adapter
Yes, you can on the 2016 MacBook. You can absolutely run 4K with a monitor that has built in USB-C.
There is even 4K 60Hz HDMI output with an active adapter and with power delivery passthrough.
Cable Matters makes one for about $25 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNS7W63/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1ObFzb3PSYEB0
I am going to be buying these to items for my pocket 2 once it arrives
https://www.amazon.ca/Cable-Matters-Adapter-Supporting-Charging/dp/B06XNS7W63
https://www.amazon.ca/Cable-Matters-Ethernet-Gigabit-Supporting/dp/B01J6583NK
And possibly some of these too
https://www.amazon.ca/Spigen-Holder-Tablets-Compatible-Magnetic/dp/B07F1Z9WTL
Cable Matters USB-C to HDMI Adapter Supporting 4K 60Hz with Power Delivery in Black (Thunderbolt 3 Port Compatible) for Samsung Galaxy S8/S8+/Note 8, 2016/2017 Macbook Pro, Dell XPS 13/15, and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNS7W63?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
This one works for me. They have another one with HDMI USB and Ethernet that I'm looking at that should work, but I'm not sure.
I use this one for my HP X2 1013 G3 - runs 4K @ 60 Hz via both Thunderbolt 3 and USB-C ports. Surface Book 2 is listed as supported on product page.
USB-C to HDMI Adapter Supporting 4K 60Hz (Thunderbolt 3 Port Compatible)
Cable Matters USB C to HDMI Adapter Supporting 4K 60Hz & 60W Charging in Black - USB-C & Thunderbolt 3 Port Compatible for Samsung Galaxy S9/S9+, Galaxy S8/S8+, Galaxy Note 8, MacBook Pro and More
Hey u/jimmy_007vn,
Assuming you're talking about this PSU. If you are, this PSU can power 3 Vega cards and whatever risers you'd need. The risers will be connected to the SATA rails that come from the PSU.
Currently there are 3 types of risers:
Molex/SATA
SATA/6-pin
SATA
All three of these types of risers will be connected to the PSU rails directly. You don't need to buy a pin converter. You'll just need two power supplies and a power supply connector so that you can run 6 cards.
I have personally tested the Molex/SATA and the SATA risers, and I personally like the SATA risers. The Molex/SATA risers have melted twice on me, causing two GPUs to ruin themselves(this occured at different times). The SATA only riser is currently the best I have used. I have not had a melting issue like I did with Molex/SATA. I have bought some of the newer 6-pin risers to test after reading that they are supposedly safer than previous riser types.
The electricity used by the risers will be negligible, and you don't have to worry about overloading your 1000w PSU.
I hope this helped.
This is what a riser looks like, and then generally you get custom cases like this, although I generally build cases with the same design.
Club3d CAC-1080 adapter+Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable
Will this or this work with the gamecube adapter I know adapters work but does this one?
If you're printing the case yourself, it's perfect. I'd buy a small USB hub, and remove it's plastic housing.
You can plug the keyboard pcb into one of the USB ports on the hub. Plug the lights/whatever controller you need into another port, and then the cable where the hub would normally plug into the computer into a female-female that you mount in the case. Plug one of these into that, and you've got a USB c keyboard with lights.
Just got this earlier this week and it works great: USB Type C to HDMI Digital AV Multiport Hub, USB-C (USB3.1) Adapter PD Charger for Nintendo Switch,Portable 4K HDMI Dock for Samsung Dex Station S10/9/8/Note8/9/Tab S4/S5,MacBook Pro/Air 2018,iPad Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JK9DFKH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.insDbSJHYSQW
I bought the official power supply from Walmart last week when it was $15.99. So for $43 I have a great second dock/travel dock solution.
And that probably explains why my switch died 😔. I have been using a USB-C dongle as my travel dock which was fantastic until the day my switch wouldn't turn on or charge and I had to send it off for a month to get replaced. Guess I have to start carrying an actual dock....
Okay, I have this thing coming: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JK9DFKH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Which has the same ports as the Dock, so was gonna use that to get to the TV.
USB Type C to HDMI Digital AV Multiport Hub, USB-C (USB3.1) Adapter PD Charger for Nintendo Switch,Portable 4K HDMI Dock for Samsung Dex Station S10/9/8/Note8/9/Tab S4/S5 Travel TV Docking Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JK9DFKH/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_2p5WDbVCGY6S7
Thanks for replying. After posting this i went on a bit of a search and for only $5 more, I can get this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JK9DFKH/ which I think I'll get. It's a bit smaller and lighter and when i upgrade my Macbook Pro at the end of this year, will be compatible with that too.
​
Interesting that you don't bring the sliding bits, I find the joycons annoying to hold without them.
Just get a cheap/small adapter instead of the dock to travel with instead? I got this, works just same as the dock connector wise, just a lot smaller to travel with. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JK9DFKH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Other than the compact form factor, those features are largely available now in the form of USB Type C to HDMI Digital AV Multiport Hubs.
I went through a few before the one I stuck with. I kept this one because it was small enough to keep in my Switch carry case and one of the only ones that supported surround sound out of the Switch. But every one I tried worked fine for outputting over HDMI and charging using non-switch chargers. Works with my OnePlus 6T as well.
​
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JK9DFKH/
I use this adapter to use my phone as a portable workstation between work and home and, at least so far, it's been pretty flawless:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JK9DFKH/
I have a USC-c adapter that works great for my switch. You just have to provide power to the adapter. Mine is made by Reaka and I got it from amazon. It was called a usb type c to HDMI adapter. it was 24 usd and is as small as any USB adapters. USBC Adapter
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I use one very similar and never had any issues: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Multiport-Adapter-Nintendo-Portable/dp/B07JK9DFKH
I use it with this power adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07DVFQ1SV?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
No reports of bricking in the reviews and both items score “A” on Fakespot.
I use the combo for both traveling and a dock to a second TV in the house so they get used quite frequently.
Really hate to hear folks bricking their Switch - great analysis by OP!
Would this guy work?
I have a soundblaster audigy card with a gameport on it. Never use it, although, it's not the end of the world if you don't have one readily available: http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-F3U200-08INCH-Joystick-Adapter-SideWinder/dp/B000067RIV
A quick Google search is giving conflicting answers. I've found "There are no drivers so it won't work", "You need a special active adapter to get the FFB function (with no mention of said adapter)", I found a DIY breadboard adapter tutorial that'll get it working but it doesn't allow FFB, an official answer I found to the question asked on Microsoft's site is "It may not be supported".
Apparently the USB versions that came out later work just fine, it's the gameport that's causing issues, something about this particular one, it comes up as unsupported.
I got lucky, my Sidewinder FFB2 works just fine, it was plug and play.
​
Just stumbled across this right before I was about to post, go to the reviews and read the first one:
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Joystick-Adapter-SideWinder-F3U200-08/dp/B000067RIV#customerReviews
Here you go.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000067RIV
Use molex 4 pin. You can chain them together to add as many fans as you want!
Molex to 3 pin
Testing new things, I need your help.
> /r/theydidthemath has a neat 'points' system that I feel would be super awesome to have in our Daily Simple Questions thread. If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or if you cannot enter Unicode, use
!checkinstead )> This will score the user whose comment you replied to a 'point'. I don't know what these points will be used for or if this feature will be a permanent thing. This is where you come in. If there's a good response and it works like I want it to, this could be a great way to incentivize people helping.
Now, get out there and help some people!
-\/u\/eegras
----
In case you missed it, click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread. There may be some questions still unanswered! Below are a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.
If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.
----
> I have a 1TB HDD for mass storage (and 128gb for OS), being the PC enthusiast that I am, I want to run on SSD only storage from this point on.
> I want to get a 500GB SSD (750 EVO) this month, and the coming few months 1 SSD of 500Gigs at a time.
>
> Is this a smart idea or am I better off saving money for 1 big 1TB or 2TB SSD?
>
> In the netherlands, the 750 EVO 500GB is around 120 euros
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7p6jnr
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> I've just installed Windows 10. What are some things that I should remove? I found this thread but it's like a year old so I don't know if the same things still apply https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/3f10k0/things_to_removedisable_in_windows_10/
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7p5ss4
----
> hello
> i've got a problem with my pc but i'm not sure what it is
> my setup is
> 970 gtx
> i5 4590
> 2x8gb ram
> b85 mb
> anyway, its nothing unusual
> When i play overwatch on high settings my pc turns off after really short duration of playing. I don't get any fps drops or any weird things going. Same happend in word of tanks beta hd.
> Ive got OCZ 600W stealth stream 2 PSU, the power seems to be enough but as far as i looked for answers everyone says its psu. When i did a stress test in furmark it didn't turn off, my psu is a bit older then rest of my pc.
> Is there a way to check if its psu or any other component failing?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7p5iyg
----
> Are there any really clear UV reactive dyes I could use for my system? I just have clear distilled water in my loop but I'd love for it to also be UV reactive without making it also colored.
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7opu5s
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> What's an, or some, ideal rectangular tables for this space right here: http://i.imgur.com/y6KBwP1.jpg
> As you can see it's a pretty garbage table and I'm willing to get rid of it as quick as possible, as well as organize the things on the table.
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7oni4l
----
> Anyone know if the AM1M-A board supports hot-swapping?
>
> Also - how do you set a particular drive to be marked as external? is it done by the bios or os?
> Thanks
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7ojsn9
----
> Sata power cable on this CX 500 is too fat to be able to plug into the SSD, any recommendations on extensions?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7oe85n
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> Good place for buying custom sized mousepads?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7odl76
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> Where is AMD Catalyst Control Center saved by default? I want to overclock my monitor and can't figure it out.
>
> Edit. Advanced settings through AMD Preferences.
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7oc2w8
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> EA is asking me to verify my game (BF4) but when i bought it didnt come with a verification code since i bought via origin store, is this normal?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7o8bmp
----
> so I own the Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case and I really want my setup to start going a color theme or something like that do I need to buy a new case with a window. Im kinda wanting to go black and red a little because of my brand new HyperX Cloud 2s any one have suggestions? Is there anything I can do to my current setup to make it start following a theme? here is my current build PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
>
> Type|Item|Price
> :----|:----|:----
> CPU | Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor | $110.99 @ SuperBiiz
> Motherboard | MSI H110M Pro-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $55.99 @ SuperBiiz
> Memory | Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $35.98 @ Newegg
> Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $45.89 @ OutletPC
> Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 960 4GB SuperSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card | $220.00
> Case | Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case | $54.99 @ Newegg
> Power Supply | EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $43.49 @ SuperBiiz
> Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit | $0.00
> Monitor | Samsung 2333T 23.0" Monitor | $100.00
> Keyboard | Razer BlackWidow Chroma Wired Gaming Keyboard | $145.28 @ B&H
> Headphones | Kingston HyperX Cloud II 7.1 Channel Headset | $91.99 @ Newegg
> Other| Tax| $60.00
> Other| Dell Premium 6-Button USB Laser Scroll Mouse J660D| $0.00
> | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
> | Total (before mail-in rebates) | $979.60
> | Mail-in rebates | -$15.00
> | Total | $964.60
> | Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-15 14:53 EDT-0400 |
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7o6g5c
----
> http://pcpartpicker.com/list/46wfyf
> Will these parts fit in the case? It's a Mini ITX build.
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7o5liu
----
> Is it better to use a fan splitter cable like this https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ that connect directly to the board or get direct PSU fan cables/passthroughs like this https://www.amazon.com/Alpha-Omega-148-0027-Adapter/dp/B000BSJGL0/ref=pd_sim_23_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BVYPBTJHZB4KKFH4C2HJ to add more fans than there are mobo fan headers? (Note: I'm not sure if either brand is reliable and will do research on what company makes the best of those cables)
>
> Also, why are LED fans cheaper than non LED fans?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7o5aw2
----
> I'm using my mouse with a bungee cord (for cable management) and the mouse cable is developing a small kink. Any tips for straightening these out?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7o4ngp
----
> I am using an NZXT Grid V2 fan controller, does anyone know if I have to actually be running CAM in order for my fan profiles to be active?
>
> And does anyone have any recommendations for a monitor mount/stand for a 27 and 24 inch pair of monitors?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_152016/d7o0x4k
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Flying_Spaghetti\ | 7
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rehpotsirhc123 | 6
Xolandi | 3
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ImpatientPedant | 2
ITXorBust | 2
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----
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Is it better to use a fan splitter cable like this https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ that connect directly to the board or get direct PSU fan cables/passthroughs like this https://www.amazon.com/Alpha-Omega-148-0027-Adapter/dp/B000BSJGL0/ref=pd_sim_23_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BVYPBTJHZB4KKFH4C2HJ to add more fans than there are mobo fan headers? (Note: I'm not sure if either brand is reliable and will do research on what company makes the best of those cables)
Also, why are LED fans cheaper than non LED fans?
It is difficult to see the three pin connection from the picture. I believe you are looking for the following.
​
https://www.amazon.com/148-0027-3-Pin-4-Pin-Adapter/dp/B000BSJGL0
Correct. There are various models of the fan and their controllers - I've found. The AZMtronics fans (pretty much the same fan, different board) connected via molex, but the board allowed for 2 fan settings (high and low). There is a 4pin OUT header...but that seems to be for if you wanted to connect an RGB LED strip rather than a 4pin connection.
Correct about the reset switch on the tower. The board transforms that switch's input to change the light setting...aka - red, blue, green, or pulse, or gradual color change, or off (I think there are just 5 presets total). Sidenote - that works because I'm using it now haha.
And yes, I agree - MOLEX cannot adjust speed. But what I was wondering was that IF I did NOT have a fan header in the LED system's board, can the molex connector be connected to an adapter that CAN control the fan speed?
AKA...would something like [this work...]
(https://www.amazon.com/Alpha-Omega-148-0027-Adapter/dp/B000BSJGL0/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1498778736&sr=8-7&keywords=molex+fan+header)
Molex from fans connects to adapter. Adapter pin connects to mobo. Other molex goes to PSU? Do I have this right?
The description of your case implies that those are LED lighted fans that should be attached to the front panel fan control.
Are there any other connectors coming from where your power button is located?
You will only need those fans if you plan on running the PC 24/7 but I get that you want them working anyway.
*EDIT: If there are no additional connectors from your front panel, you would need something like this I guess, to attach your case fans to the 3pin fan connectors on your board. Make sure there are enough fan connectors on your board first.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BSJGL0/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000BSN5TE&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0AE8004T5E542H78JPQ0
Looks much better.
A couple things to consider though.
RAM - I would change this to 2x4GB instead of 1x8GB. Yes in the future if you wanted 16GB of RAM (not sure why you would) you would have to toss your old sticks, but with only 1 stick you dont get the benefits of dual channel. In this situation, the benefits of dual channel are necessary.
GPU/Mobo/Monitors - So the mobo you picked only has two video output ports; 1 DVI and 1 HDMI. The problem is the monitors you picked only has VGA and DVI, so you wouldn't be able to plug both of them in. The easiest thing to do is get an adapter for HDMI to DVI. Another option is adding a cheap video card (An RX460 would suffice) to avoid the issue all together.
Cool cool, 1xDVI 2x DP. What you can do with this is pick up an HDMI-DVI adapter like this one and slap it into the HDMI output of the card. Bob's your uncle, now you're running.
e: if you have to, you can go to Best Buy, but I wouldn't recommend it because Best Buy is terrible. MicroCenter and Frye's are your best bets, followed by Amazon/Newegg.
> Still, generally speaking you don't have to look at system requirements when buying a console game.
You usually don't have to do that for gaming PCs, too. I've been gaming on PC for years, and I never once referenced system requirements. I used to manually adjust settings, but with nVidia's GEForce Experience software, I don't even need to do that, as it optimizes settings automatically based on your PC.
>I understand that newer PC's and Laptops will have HDMI out on them but I still see several people with older system's that are without one. And because they aren't using them for gaming I doubt they feel the need to buying a new one until their current one stops working.
In that case, you can buy a VGA to HDMI adapter off Amazon for $5 or a DVI to HDMI adapter off Amazon for $2.
Next-gen steambox revealed
> I'm all ears on how to plug a DVI cable into a HDMI port
Oddly enough, what the other guy didn't tell you, with his lifetime experience on working with computer hardware is that most of the DVI and HDMI protocols are shared. i.e. most of the time, the connector is irrelevant, just buy an adapter and turn one into another. Things like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Generic-GC2080-Adapter-Plated-Connector/dp/B000FUVNX8
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDMI-DVI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00NH11X64/
But I never remember which end is male or female, if I had to guess, I think end of the HDMI cable is male. That would make the second one the better choice. But I really can't remember about the DVI end.
The tedious differences between DVI and HDMI should not matter to you (or to your needs at least). HDMI also carry sound, DVI can also include analog RGB signal (etc)
Also the max resolution that can be carried aren't only dependent on the cable, the GPU do have limitations of their own. I can't find the specs of the Radeon HD 4600, I don't know if it can push 1440p.
Now for the driver issue, you're gonna have to buy a box of donut or a handful of cupcake and nicely ask the network peeps to come and install the right driver for the card, since cupcakes are so good, they would be so kind :)
You can get HDMI-DVI adapter. HDMI and DVI are electrically compatible, HDMI is basically DVI with audio and smaller connector.
https://www.amazon.com/Generic-GC2080-Adapter-Plated-Connector/dp/B000FUVNX8
Yes adapters are a thing. https://www.amazon.com/Generic-GC2080-Adapter-Plated-Connector/dp/B000FUVNX8
Any reason that you arent gonna just use the DVI port? As far as I know every 960 comes with one.
That's a bit of a relief, I was not prepared to buy a new monitor.
Any kind of adapter would do? Kinda like this?
Going from HDMI to USB won't work. And you can't daisy chain using DVI.
If you have HDMI output available on the macbook, you can get a HDMI-> DVI adapter/cable if the monitor does not have HDMI input.
Either something like this http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Adapter-Plated-Connector-Female/dp/B000FUVNX8 if you have a DVI cable.
or a straight up HDMI-DVI cable: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDMI-DVI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B001TH7T2U/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1418893883&sr=1-1&keywords=hdmi+dvi+cable
Whether or not the macbook will output to two monitors at the same time you'd have to get a Mac user to answer, but I can't imagine that it wouldn't.
Oh, sorry. I thought you were asking if I was using SATA or IDE.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Converter-Activity-Support-USB-DSC5/dp/B000HJ99DI
That's the adapter I have. I also have another Japanese one (that basically looks exactly the same) that gives me the same results (I bought a second one when I got here because I thought maybe mine was broken or the voltage being different was causing issues).
If you're just looking for an adapter, yes they do exist. I use one for hard drives all the time but I don't see why it wouldn't work with an optical drive as well. If you'd like, I could test it out later tonight.
I use something like this, Sabrent USB 2.0 TO SATA/IDE 2.5/3.5/-INCH Hard Drive Converter With Power Supply & LED Activity Lights [4TB Support] (USB-DSC5) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HJ99DI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_j6MCybNDNXQQ4
Well, this is all I found. http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Converter-Activity-Support-USB-DSC5/dp/B000HJ99DI?ie=UTF8&keywords=sata%20to%20usb%203.5%20inch&qid=1465437286&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3 . And if you're looking for 3.0, I'm all out of luck. Good luck.
As others have said, It's IDE and something like THIS is what you need.
Oh yeah, batching works fine too, its just cost vs time equafion. I have few dupe needs, so I spent under $300 and I have 3 clones going from time to time myself. Have fun cloning☺
edit:
Here's what I use by the way;it's just fine for my needs
http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STBV5000100/dp/B00JT0EGPW
http://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-eSATA-Components-SI-PEX40065/dp/B00AZ9T4F8
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Duplicator-Function-EC-HDD2/dp/B00IKC14OG
and lastly the ssd's external / internal
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Shockproof-Enclosure-EC-UK3B/dp/B0126RO1YK
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-512GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7KE512BW/dp/B00LF10KTO
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HJ99DI
Cheers.
Oh sweet, thank you very much!
Edit: Would this be a good one, being a one time use thing don't plan on wasting too much money. https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Converter-Activity-Support-USB-DSC5/dp/B000HJ99DI
try disconnecting all external devices first.
you can't access bios, is that correct? if so, last resort would be taking it apart and resetting the bios if possible, or take out the hdd and connect it to another machine via this
and remember: back things up regularly, so your boss doesn't kill you. solely relying on old machines is a bad idea.
Will that work for both drives?
And isn't this the same thing? https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Converter-Activity-Support-USB-DSC5/dp/B000HJ99DI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487776547&sr=8-2&keywords=sata+3.5+to+usb
It could also have come from a SATA to USB adapter, like this Sabrent one.
I have this old ipod gen 3 hdd. I'm trying to find an enclosure for it or some kind of adapter.
ATA is the same thing as IDE, right? Is this sufficient?
i did try to install linux as a duel boot i think it may have worked however linux confused me and i wasn't in the mood to learn how to use it at the moment so i just gave up on the linux. i heard it runs bad though.
quick question would you say either of these are good choices to get? i mean do they have good specs at first glance?
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-SATA-Drive-Converter-USB-DSC5/dp/B000HJ99DI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449650088&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=sata+ide&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/SANOXY-A12940-Drive-Adapter-Converter/dp/B001OORMVQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449650647&sr=8-1&keywords=sata+ide&refinements=p_n_condition-type%3A6461716011
should i go for more expensive? will these break down in like 3 days cause of the cost?
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Converter-Activity-Support-USB-DSC5/dp/B000HJ99DI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478063351&sr=8-3&keywords=ide+to+usb
I have this one ( https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Converter-Activity-Support-USB-DSC5/dp/B000HJ99DI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479680284&sr=8-2&keywords=sabrent+ec-ahdd ) and it works well enough. It's only $13 at the moment. You'll obviously need something to put the files on but it essentially turns your drive into a USB stick. Though the pictures don't show, it does come with a power supply and a few other adapters. Feel free to browse the QA on it.
Ha ha, been there too many times, that's standard laptop IDE drive, new motherboards not going to have header for that, so your best bet is to get that adapter, count me a sucker, but I think this exactly what you need for $12
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HJ99DI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481351840&sr=8-1&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=Usb+ide
Now, I'm not frequent Amazon shopper, so not sure if there's any restrictions on that. So, this is device that you need, at very good price, if there's no catch.
You don't have to spend $500 on optical cables like that guy.
I extended an extra 10ft (for 25ft total) after the breakout box by spending $27 shipped - and I have a spare HDMI extender left:
www.amazon.com/SMAKN®-Extension-Foscam-Agasio-Wireless/dp/B00V5QY53Q
www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B008219UMI
www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Extension-Ethernet/dp/B00JJ517VI
I also recommend using a carabiner clip on your back belt loop to keep the cable away from your arms.
I use a USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable and plug in the unifying receiver in to it that way I can move it close to where I sit and I have no problems. Like this https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B008219UMI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1520717139&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+extension+cable&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_five_browse-bin%3A7800928011
Im waiting on a Technoskin carrying bag with compartments for charger and several games/sd cards.
I have this 10ft long usb extension cable that makes it so I dont have to hug a wall.
Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008219UMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oclkybHBZW5WB
I use these for my two front sensors that I’ve wall mounted without any issues:
Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable (USB 3.0 Extension Cable / USB 3 Extension Cable) in Blue 10 Feet - Available 3FT - 10FT in Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008219UMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TvycBbGJW4E8C
For my rear sensor, I bought the sensor through Best Buy and it came with a USB extension cable. I wasn’t sure if the extension was USB 3 or not so I just made sure I pulled it into a USB 2
Hope this helps!
So I ordered these two cables:
HDMI
and
USB
Turns out the 10 foot USB does not work on the Samsung Odyssey for me. I tried it in several USB ports and I keep getting the message to connect my headset. I tried it with a simple USB key and that worked.
Returning the 10 foot USB and getting the 6 foot instead.
The HDMI works perfectly.
I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and have had great success.
I've already managed it 20 feet with one of these I had lying around I had originally used with my CV1:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And a USBC to A cable I had but not sure the source.
This really is a case of experimenting and luck.
I've been using this hdmi cable without issue since May with my Asus strix 970
also using this usb extension
In the Radeon 200 Series we added the ability to support 3 concurrent non-DP connections. These must be connected to the system at boot time, and cannot be hotplugged while the system is on. The 290X/290 is the exception to the "no hotplug" rule (hardware reasons).
You can connect 2xDVI + 1xHDMI at boot and all three should work. The fourth monitor, if not natively DisplayPort, must be adapted with an active adapter and connected to the GPU's DisplayPort socket.
Here is an active HDMI-to-DP adapter. Here is an active DVI-to-DP adapter.
If that fourth monitor requires Dual Link DVI for maximum functionality, the active adapters for DL-DVI are considerably more expensive at $50-100 each. DL-DVI has more complicated timings and signalling that makes the adapter electronics more expensive.
Is your Mini DP to DVI adapter an "ACTIVE" adapter? That's usually the culprit.
Male DVI
Female DVI
So something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Active-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDSZYII/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502143135&sr=8-3&keywords=active+adapter+mini+displayport+to+dvi
Active digital converters are a thing...
Such as this: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDSZYII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420231885&sr=8-1&keywords=active+mini+displayport+to+dvi
I think the Intel guys are full of shit, but if that is what they are saying your next step is then meh. You need something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Supporting-Technology/dp/B00EDSZYII
Plus a DVI cable then too.
It happens regardless if the pro is docked or not, but I'm using the following display port adapters:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDSZYII/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E71GNBI/
This one works.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDSZYII
The cables you linked to on Amazon are not active cables. You will need to use the link that Smarmysnail post and click on the HDMI model.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDSZYII
Did the same thing so don't feel bad. I used this model by Cable Matters for my DVI monitors on the dock.
Is this one possible too? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K0UDJFI/
I have no personal experience with this, but:
/u/cybereality once recommended the Cable Matters Mini DisplayPort (Thunderbolt™ 2 Port Compatible) to HDMI Male to Female Adapter - 4K Resolution Ready. I see people in the answers section saying it works well.
This is the adapter I got which works pretty well. Still need to connect it to an 4k capable HDMI cable and run that to your TV but it does the trick.
I use this one. Works fine for me.
Cable Matters Gold Plated Mini DisplayPort (Thunderbolt Port Compatible) to HDMI Male to Female Adapter - 4K Resolution Ready https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K0UDJFI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_sVlQwbQ9Z3X79
> LG 25UM55 21:9 monitor
Thanks for the in depth answer!
Unfortunately the monitor i have (http://www.lg.com/us/monitors/lg-29UM57-P-ultrawide-led-monitor) only has 2 HDMI ports so using a DisplayPort cable won't work. This adapter (http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters%C2%AE-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B00K0UDJFI/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t) claims to support 4k displays so I will find out if this works in 2 days.
The laptop itself is a 13-inch, Mid 2012. Hopefully that isn't the issue.
Actually any cable like https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B00K0UDJFI/ do work since 4k@30hz (hdmi 1.4) is enough to handle the rift. I know i have no issues with my standard passive hdmi-dp adapter
If you mean you have a mini DisplayPort out on your laptop and you want to hook it up the original Rift, I've seen others suggest this adapter will work.
It is possible but rare, I have 2 rift headsets here trying them both on a Pcspecialist Defiance III with a 970M, 2 different issues in each set, old tv type interference on one (playable), image going black every 5/10 seconds on the other (unplayable) the only reason I'm testing is because the one headset (old tv interference) I first tried it with worked perfectly for about 4 hours the first time I used it but I can't replicate that again :(
For anyone reading this in future I got a "Cable Matters 4k mini displayport to HDMI adaptor" and oculus now works on my (pcspecialist Defiance III gtx 970m,
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00K0UDJFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Ultra-High-Definition-Graphics-3840x2160/dp/B00NI96S2O/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?gclid=Cj0KCQjwyerpBRD9ARIsAH-ITn9S5iYrO2RCVWgyqcvcam1-Aw2A8wAQdEYTs2GUr5s_6oo4pjMS5PcaAmTPEALw_wcB&hvadid=153647194986&hvdev=t&hvlocphy=9013459&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=7426096835121153808&hvtargid=kwd-24418085738&hydadcr=18008_9429944&keywords=usb+to+displayport&qid=1564166878&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExU0Y1VlJVNUk0SlAmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAyNzQ4NTcyNjNVVjYzTlYzVDc3JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxNDk4MDczMTJKSlJEVzRPNjg0JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== Would this work?
That's a displayport to HDMI adapter. Doesn't work the other way. I can't find a HDMI to Displayport adapter though. Since you're only using your motherboard maybe a USB to Displayport adapter is better for you.
Most HDMI / DisplayPort adapters are just one-way, converting displayport to hdmi. Years back I used a no name brand hdmi to diplayport adapter that worked for some things but failed for anything with DRM attached.
Maybe a USB 3.0 to DisplayPort adapter? But no idea if that would work for your system.
If your PC isn't a laptop, your simplest solution might be to look for a cheap video card to replace your old card. If your current video card is so old it doesn't have displayport, a cheap new card might be an improvement and run you less than $75. Better than using a questionable adapter that might cost you $50!
Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NI96S2O/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1427557902&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+3.0+to+displayport&dpPl=1&dpID=413kwsFzVkL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
that is a good indication of USB3. the adapters actually work reasonably well. this is what I use when working from home. it pushes 1440p@60Hz no problem (it can't quite manage 4k@60Hz--can only do 30Hz w/ lag--, but that's not surprising).
edit: I should say, I have no idea if those usb adapters will work with linux. I haven't tried. my linux box doesn't need an adapter. (work computer is a windows laptop)
How about this? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NI96S2O/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1427557902&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+3.0+to+displayport&dpPl=1&dpID=413kwsFzVkL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40
DVI-D is digital only and will not work with a DVI to VGA converter. VGA is analog and the DVI-I puts out both digital and an extra analog output, which the DVI-VGA converter can use. Most of your common DVI-VGA converters will not work with the DVI-D port.
What you need is an "active" DVI-VGA converter. It doesn't just connect pins, it actually contains an active digital to analog converter circuit. I've never had one of them, so hopefully I'm not missing something important. Here is a random one on Amazon for reference.
Side note: Dual versus Duel
Ye right, that's so NOT going to work.
What non-reference RX480 has is DVI-D. This thing outputs ONLY digital signal. If it was DVI-I then sure, you can use $3 adapter and it would work but with DVI-D it gets trickier.
You would need this.
Your graphics card should support 2 HDMI and a DVI input. Ditch the USB, and get a VGA to DVI or VGA to HDMI.
https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Pro-DVI-D-Active-Converter/dp/B00RWFT8NG
but why ?
What's the point, why would you want lower resolution and lower refresh rates? being a hipster?
How old is this "retro monitor", is it a full on 90's era CRT or older, as it does matter. If it's not ancient pre broadband internet era monitor just get yourself a DVI-DL to vga adapter similar to this if you are committed to this.
Yep, either a DVI-D to VGA or Displayport 1.2 to VGA converter will work.
The DVI-D output from the card is a digital signal. The VGA input on the monitor needs an analog signal. It looks like your adapter is just allowing the cables to connect to eachother. It is not changing the signal at all. You need a DVI-D to VGA adapter/converter that specifically converts the digital signal from the DVI-D/GPU into an analog signal. This will most likely require additional power to perform the change in signal. An example can be found here:
https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Pro-DVI-D-Active-Converter/dp/B00RWFT8NG
With how cheap monitors are I would suggest just getting another monitor that supports digital signals.
It feels wrong to use analong connections on such a beautiful monitor.
So, DVI-D Dual requires a powered converter. I actually use this converter and have had no issues. Make sure its the right type of DVI, better to double check than return, and it should work for ya.
There are DVI-D to VGA active converters like https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Pro-DVI-D-Active-Converter/dp/B00RWFT8NG
Yet buying a DVI or DP cable would be cheaper.
I personally don't think it would be a good thing to use two different graphic cards, consider one of them is just for your other monitor.
What I say you should do, and it's what im currently doing, is, to connect your main monitor (Acer), AND the 4:3 one to your GTX 970 card, it should have 2 DVI-D and 1 HDMI and 1 Display port input at the back. Get a VGA <-> DVI-D adapter, which is pretty cheap. This one for example Link. Or you could just go to a general electronics shop and get one for like 5$.
> At the moment I'm just using the explorer on my phone to download from Drive, then copy to Music from Downloads. It's tedious as hell (especially since I'm super anal about songs being in folders by artist, and afaik I can't copy full folders, just files) so if there's a better way I'm all ears!
I have many, many, gigs of music organized in folders by artist, and then subfolders by album, so I feel your pain! It seems like you have figured a lot of this out, but I'll share my thoughts regardless. Hope they help.
I have never used a chromebook, but they are cloud-based aren't they -- there are no actual files on your chromebook, just in the cloud on Drive? If so, that is the source of your problem because you can't drag/drop folders from Drive (as far as I know). Going one by one, even multi-selecting in folders, will take forever.
The easier way is to get the files on a computer (in folders) and then use either a USB cable or an app like Superbeam to move entire folder structures. Note also that if you have the files on a USB drive you can plug the drive directly into your phone and use the phone (you will need an adapter like this one). I keep all my music files on a 1 TB seagate drive, and I just plug the drive into my phone whenever I need to move some files onto my N5X.
If the only place you have your files is Drive, then I think there may be no way around the tedious file-by-file download.
If you have to buy a new controller, at that rate you're better off with any number of the available bluetooth controllers that work without issue. Don't need to specifically get a Sony one unless that's what you're going for.
I'm with /u/rube though, you're not likely to find a C-to-mini ITG cable. Though you might find a C-to-A cable and just plug in a standard mini cable to it. Something like this one or this one.
This adapter
This controller
Works with any of the GTAs I have (all of them in Play Store -- I'm a sucker for GTA < 4). Also allows you to navigate on the home screen of the Nexus 6p/9 and Pixel phone.
Something like this should work too.
Yup
iXCC USB Type C to USB 3.0 Type A Adapter, Charge and Sync Cable, On The Go (OTG Host Cable) for Type-C Supported Devices (6 Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017TJN22C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VhDUzbYYC9YXE
Dude I saw that, I'd love to try that. So is this everything I need?
https://www.rcplanet.com/fat-shark-rc-universal-av-cable-with-90-prong-fsv2003_p/fsv2003.htm
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017TJN22C?ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00&amp;redirect=true&amp;psc=1&amp;tag=viglink20264-20&amp;pldnSite=1
Plus the app?
I bought this specific ethernet adapter and this USB-C cable and it works great for me if that helps. I couldn't figure out why I was so much better at Splatoon 2 on handheld but terrible docked, so I bought the ethernet adapter to get the best connection in the meantime since I was playing more docked. Turns out it was ultimately TV input lag. New TV fixed that and I don't use the ethernet adapter often now, but it's nice to have an extra for the PC.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586/
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017TJN22C/
That won't work, since the XPS models lack a Mini DisplayPort connector, you would need something like https://www.amazon.ca/Plugable-Chromebook-ThunderboltTM-Supports-3840x2160/dp/B01FIVSC6Y/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485650405&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=usb+c+to+hdmi+2 this, since it's thunderbolt port uses a USB Type C Connector.
I just received this adapter today https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FIVSC6Y but I'm having some trouble. When the USB and HDMI are plugged in, the Windows Mixed Reality Portal says "Check your display cable. Make sure your headset's display cable is plugged in correctly."
Not sure if I'm doing something wrong, adapter is a dud, or my headset doesn't work. I haven't been able to use it yet.
> I was connecting to a USB to HDMI
This sounds like you are using a DisplaLink device which is a USB driven graphics adapter (there is a lightweight gpu in the device that does the processing). While they are decent devices, you will get better performance and more supported resolutions if you run the HDMI straight off of the internal GPU via USB-C to HDMI directly. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/CAC-1504-Chromebook-Thunderbolt-Supports-3840x2160/dp/B016QO8186
Or this: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-USB-C-HDMI-Chromebook-Thunderbolt/dp/B01FIVSC6Y
Not saying that was for sure your issue but if you are doing presentations regularly I would suggest getting something like the above.
This one works amazing.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01EXKDRAC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This also seems legit, but I am tempted to just have the Display Port Cable instead.
https://www.amazon.ca/Plugable-USB-C-HDMI-Chromebook-ThunderboltTM/dp/B01FIVSC6Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493836186&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+c+to+hdmi+2
Yep maybe try this USB-C to HDMI 2.0 adapter, with and without the dock
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Thunderbolt-Supports-Displays-3840x2160/dp/B01FIVSC6Y
If you aren't used to it you may not notice it, but after you use 60hz and switch back to 30hz it is very noticeable.
I picked up one of these to get 4k/60hz support and found it to be totally worth it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FIVSC6Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can certainly spend a lot on a displayport KVM switch, or, use a USB switch for your peripherals (plugged into a USB Hub) ala
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00JX3Q28Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and then use this on your MBP for video: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01FIVSC6Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 . It's HDMI vs Displayport, but with https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01EFQWP0C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 then I can also hook up my Xbox to the monitor.
Not amazingly cheap, but about a third of the price of displayport switch linked by mygocarp.
Source: am doing just that.
https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Active-DVI-D-Converter-Black/dp/B01FL7H7HA/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484854418&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=dvi-d+to+vga
https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-Gold-Plated-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484854457&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+vga
I am uploading the photo of the cable. I have w10, my motherboard supports 1 nvidia and 2 gpu cards. i just put it on performance mode. Here the cable's on gpu which i am goin to change to 1. http://imgur.com/nFUMHCv here is the adapter. https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Active-DVI-D-Converter-Black/dp/B01FL7H7HA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483980856&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=dvi+d+to+vga
HDMI to VGA
DVI-D to VGA
DisplayPort to VGA
Any of those will do what you need.
The 1060 does not support analog graphics at all, so the cheap, passive, DVI to VGA adapters won't work.
You need an active adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FL7H7HA/ or this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00879DM56/
https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Active-DVI-D-Converter-Black/dp/B01FL7H7HA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491338613&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=vga+to+dvi-d
It did not work.
That would probably work actually, and you're lucky in that the pi-zero can be backpowered thru the usb data port. AND it seems you can make it act like a gadget, which I didn't know.
https://www.rmedgar.com/blog/using-rpi-zero-as-keyboard-setup-and-device-definition
Making a portable hack gadget? Have fun with it.
Edit: I'd just make it into an A-type and use an adapter like this unless form factor is important. That way you can use it on A or C.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYYT0
I don't know if many cheap USB type C switches are available, but there are many regular USB 3.0 switches that could possible work with the correct adapters.
There may potentially be bandwidth limitations though, so be warned.
USB 3.0 switch: https://www.amazon.com/Female-Adapter-Macbook-Tablet-Mobile/dp/B01C43FUIW
USB C female to USB 3.1 male adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Female-Adapter-Macbook-Tablet-Mobile/dp/B01C43FUIW
USB 3.1 female to USB C male adapter: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0
This is a strange question, but if you were to buy a USB C to A device, could you pass through the Thunderbolt controller and have the guess access the USB device directly?
I could be wrong but I think you can use it as a regular USB port too. It's just if you want to push video through it then that video is tied to your iGPU. For you case, it's just another, hopefully separate, USB bus to try. Not that you need to try it but something like this would give you one last option:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0/
I now have a Mayflash GC adapter. Works perfectly. If I were to use a USB Adapter like this one, which lets me use the Mayflash on handheld mode, will that brick my switch or cause any other problems?
This one?
AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB 3.1 Gen1 Female Adapter - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYYT0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LhrTBbS3NCJTK
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0/ref=asc_df_B01GGKYYT0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167151358503&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11534603015747563071&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005488&hvtargid=aud-464976914866:pla-490647422152&psc=1
just get something like this, and keep it with your mouse, or like tape it onto your mouse cable
Nothing special on the LAN adapter required.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Network-Ethernet-Supports-Nintendo/dp/B00MYTSN18/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543469038&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=ugreen+ethernet+adapter
You'll need this to connect it directly to Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0
Multi-port stand/dock.
https://www.gearhawkstudio.com/?fbclid=IwAR3tcyAx6vb5vCFeHVVClS_QPiE9pPlWOr7Wxn-lFKkDV-VbMYKyqjIr834
Single port wireless adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Adapter-Nintendo-GameCube-Classic-Controllers/dp/B07JLF9PVG
Wireless GC-style controller.
https://www.powera.com/products/wireless-controller-for-nintendo-switch-gamecube-style-purple/
You could also get a stand for your Switch, and use a USB type-C adapter to connect any Gamecube adapter. The GC adapters only need the black cable to be plugged in for all four controllers to function, the grey end only provides rumble.
https://www.amazon.com/Compact-Playstand-Nintendo-Switch-Officially-Licensed/dp/B01N9RTMWS/
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0/
Lastly, there is another stand from Hori which comes with 4 USB ports and allows you to charge your Switch at the same time.
https://www.amazon.com/HORI-Nintendo-Switch-Multiport-USB-Playstand/dp/B01A827XHM/
Interior:
Apps/Software/USB:
You COULD try a USB type A to USB C adaptor if they make it. Then plug your 2.4ghz dongle into the type A end of the adaptor, and the type C end into the switch.
There's no reason to think that a PC headset would ever work on a switch though, so it would not be a for sure bet that this would work. It's possible it may NEVER have a workaround.
https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0
The Audio Technica ATR2100 is the most recommended beginner mic you'll find around here. It has a USB connection and an XLR connection, so your buddy can continue to use it if he decides to upgrade to an audio interface later on. (I just ordered one with the intention of using both at the same time for Skype reasons). He'll need something like this to connect the mic's USB cable to his phone.
I just did a quick Google and it does appear people are using their ATR2100s with iPhones and iPads. I suggest your buddy look at YouTube videos about it before committing.
Wait, what? Like this cable? https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0
I'm not sure how you connect your Xbox controller to your phone. The Xbox One OG controller is wireless, so to make it wired, isn't the controller cable USB Micro B to USB A male? You connected that cable to the one in the Amazon link?
You really need to look up your laptop specs and see if it has a TB3 port. But generally speaking, a USBC port with a lightening bolt means its a thunderbolt3.
IF that's what it is, this is the kind of adapter you need
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01K51GM46/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=thunderbolt+3+to+displayport&qid=1563416138&s=gateway&sr=8-7
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But for the adapter to work, your TB3 needs to be directly tied to your discreet GPU in the laptop and not the Integrated one which isnt compatible.
Just get one of the basic adapters like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01K51GM46/
I can't promise that that particular adapter will work well, as sometimes individual adapters have minor variations that cause issues, but several people mention it working well with the Rift S.
The odds of any particular one are good since they're not "active" adapters, they don't regenerate, translate or convert the signal. They're just physical adapters connecting the right pins. All the smarts is in the software on your computer and device.
The expensive ones you're seeing are usually for some other type of conversion where they have to do an active conversion, or act as a display adapter where there is none (like connecting HDMI over USB 2.0).
I'm not too well versed in VirtualLink, I believe it's a working group or committee standard developed by multiple companies, of which Valve is one. It's unlikely that anyone would be contractually required to use any port. The companies just work together to develop a standard that they're all comfortable using, and then they use it because they think it's beneficial. Sometimes it doesn't work out that way, sometimes a particular standard has too many issues and doesn't really catch on until version 2, sometimes they're just abandoned entirely for technical or non-technical reasons.
No VR headsets require VirtualLink, DP via DP, Thunderbolt or USB-C 3.1 Gen2 ports should support them all.
I suspected the same. Ordering one now. I found a CableMatters TB3 to DP adapter and CableMatters TB3 to DP 3feet Cable, Which one is the better option the adapter or a 3feet cable ( no lesser length available in India)?
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https://www.amazon.in/Cable-Matters-Thunderbolt-Compatible-DisplayPort/dp/B01K51GM46/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Cable+Matters+thunderbolt+3+to+display+port+adapter&qid=1558411924&s=gateway&sr=8-2
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https://www.amazon.in/Matters-DisplayPort-Supporting-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B01J6DWK6I/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Cable+Matters+thunderbolt+3+to+display+port&qid=1558411958&s=gateway&sr=8-2
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Thank You.
Cable Matters USB C to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K51GM46?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I have the same Mac as you and had some issues finding a 60hz adapter. Go with option one and buy a new adapter (something like this) . A TB2 to TB3 won’t work in this instance as it’s a display port connection and not a thunderbolt one (despite being the same connector shape)
This is the adaptor I am using: Cable Matters USB 3.1 Type C (USB-C & Thunderbolt 3 Port Compatible) to DisplayPort 4K 60Hz UHD Adapter in Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K51GM46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BOawybGWZBC38
And I bought this cable:
Cable Matters 3-Feet Gold Plated DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable, 4K Resolution Ready, (102005-3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7RP2QQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YSawybCK2XCS2
I researched and technically Daisy Chaining should work, but my second monitor is DVI, so I bought a Display Port to DVI cable and I can't get it to work for me. A newer monitor with Display Port in might.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Thunderbolt-Compatible-DisplayPort/dp/B01K51GM46/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482170078&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=usb+c+to+displayport
or
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B01J6DT070/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482170078&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=usb+c+to+displayport
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Thunderbolt-Compatible-DisplayPort/dp/B01K51GM46/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480856748&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb-c+displayport
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01K51GM46/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=usb+c+to+displayport+adapter&qid=1574358640&s=electronics&sr=1-5
Then just plug the usb into the motherboard.
I have used it a couple times and haven't had any issues other than a few moments of stuttering randomly. My guess is the laptop was downloading something or popping up an alert. This is the adapter I bought, if that helps!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K51GM46/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I am using it through the TB3 port. And I'm using this adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K51GM46/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
There are a few actual cables that do the connection without an adapter, but when I was looking for this one, they were all sold out. The CableMatters one works just fine and I haven't had any issues with it. 144hz was a game changer for me in FPS games.
Sorry if I am proving what seems like conflicting information. I checked 'System Information' and it tells me that I have a 'Surface Book 2' in the System Summary area.
I went to this: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/4052030/surface-usb-c and it told me that I have a USB-C port.
So, I went to Amazon and bought this guy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K51GM46/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 Obviously, my hardware isn't a Dell, but I took a chance that I could get a driver to make this work.
Does this clarify? I do appreciate any light you can shine on this.
Thanks.
I bought this to use as a dock https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Delivery-Thunderbolt-compatible/dp/B06XNS7W63/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504580717&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=s8+hdmi+adapter&amp;psc=1
But the switch doesnt seem to understand that it's supposed to output anything through the HDMI. To my knowledge, this is the exact same tech as the sfans dock and switchcon. With everything plugged in, the switch charges but it unfortunately doesnt try to display the image on the TV, and stays in handheld mode.
My current dock is busted and I know my switch is fine because it functions perfectly on other docks.
Can anyone help, please? I really can't afford to buy a new dock which is why I opted for this one.
Yup I do this all the time when I travel. Sentio works pretty well and Project Linda was using it in their demos.
I use this dock. Just know there's no input so you'll have to connect to it with Bluetooth devices. There are some docks that have usb input. I just like to make sure it has power delivery too. I also mount the phone on a fan grip so it doesn't overheat.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNS7W63/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KsBVCbPKA8D8Z
If you get a display port one, you can shoot 120 for into a high fps monitor too.
This one works!
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XNS7W63/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sonofa... I just tried it last night and couldn't get it to work, and it definitely did on Android 6 (now on 7). I have this one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XNS7W63/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it works like a champ on my Samsung S8+ so that could be an option, but now I need to figure out what happened to my Asus!
None so far. I have 17 gpus on them right now. I am using mostly this brand: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074PS39BK/ref=psdc_3015403011_t1_B01N3UVJHM
Are my risers safe and good? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074PS39BK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074PS39BK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
seem to work well in my case.
I have 3 different types, one of which seems to be about the same as the first one you linked.
The second type is similar, but in red, and the third is the exact ones your second link points to.
I'm not sure why our experiences would differ like this, though there is probably a good bit of variation between superficially similar risers.
I'll do some more fiddling with my rig that uses the first type of riser. I don't think it'll change much, because I've always tried to use the VGA power cords when possible, exactly because I have been concerned about overloading SATA connectors.
I just tried it with my Acer ET322QK and the Club3D Display Port 1.2 to HDMI 2.0 active adapter, and it didn't work. I might try to mess around with the settings on the X, but I'm pretty sure it's a no go.
They do make a newer version of the adapter that supports HDR and Displayport 1.4 if anybody is interested in trying it, but it does state on the product page that the source system must support display port, so seems unlikely.
https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B077JB28KM?th=1
https://www.amazon.com.au/CAC-1080-DisplayPort-Adapter-displays-4096x2160/dp/B077JB28KM
You can enable VRR over diplayport in the nvidia control panel.
So the top 2 options may just be possible.
I wanted to get 1440p@120hz with VRR enabled from my 2080ti to my LG C9
Question: I have an RTX 2080FE and it only has one HDMI Port that has to be used for my monitor. I need another HDMI(2.0) for my WMR VR headset. Should using a Displayport to hdmi adapter like this work or is swapping the plug each time I use VR my only option?
This is the adapter I bought: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077JB28KM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_P947BbMJA09PZ
It looks like that Cable Matters one only supports 4K 30Hz and no HDR. That'll be a hard pass for me.
Good chance its the adapter yea, you might have to do some more research and find an adapter that people have specifically used for the rift. VR is very sensitive to adapters and extenders so find a 4k 60hz capable one and you should be good. Heres one that has some good reviews from people using it with VR. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077JB28KM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OQh6CbFB1T6SX
I use this one:
Club3D CAC-1080 Active DisplayPort 1.4 to HDMI 2.0b HDR Adapter (support displays up to 4k/UHD/ 4096x2160 @60Hz HDR) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077JB28KM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9NnZCbWSDQY8N
I accidentally bought a non active DP to HDMI and had the same issue you're having. Sent it back and got this one. Only asking because I made this mistake. Are you 100&#37; sure it's an active one?
The only way I can think of to check 90Hz is to play a low quality video on DeoVR Video Player and have it display FPS. It should cap out at 90FPS if you're in 90Hz mode.
You need an active adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/CAC-1080-DisplayPort-Adapter-displays-4096x2160/dp/B077JB28KM/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525841546&amp;sr=8-16&amp;keywords=displayport+to+hdmi+4k+60hz
Like this.
The newest versions of DP can do 4k at 120hz. So yes it's bs.
Port: http://h20195.www2.hp.com/v2/GetPDF.aspx/4aa6-9224enuc.pdf Page 3/5
Video showing HDR: https://1drv.ms/v/s!ArKGv9LOf89ctoFR5ATCPGDxBOQo2g?e=VzuB25
DisplayPort adapter used: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B077JB28KM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I don't see any problem for 5 years, unless there's a suddenly change in technology or trend. The progress of computer innovation has been slowing down lately.
It's highly unlikely that 8K video will become mainstream in 5 years. The 2018 MBA can handle 4K editing. Export time is definitely longer than a 2018 MacBook Pro, but honestly, I never just sit and wait for export, I use the time to go do something else.
Intel won't mass release any 10nm chipset until late 2019, and who knows if there'll be more delay. Even then, it will take another year or two to mature. There has been speculation that Apple may make Macbook with their own CPU. Even if that happens in a year or two, it will also take another year or two for software to maturely make the switch. Also, wifi6 is on the horizon, but ac isn't going away.
The USB-C ports on the MBA are also Thunderbolt 3 ports. When you need more performance out from the machine, you can always plug in a eGPU.
BTW, for moving onto USB-C, I bought a few USB-C to USB 3.0 adapters and just leave it attached to my devices and cables which I use the most.
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Transfer-Compatible-MacBook/dp/B078NKPGW9/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1549487928&sr=8-6&keywords=usb+c+to+usb+adapter+anker
Well, the reviews look OK on that one. What I do on Amazon is I use the review search feature to search for "MacBook Pro" in the reviews to see what people's experiences are with it. Seems like a safe order since Amazon should let you return it if something is wrong.
I forgot to include the adapter links you asked for. There are two kinds. One is a very compact adapter that is cheap and easy to carry around:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Transfer-Compatible-MacBook/dp/B078NKPGW9/
The disadvantage is the USB-A end can be so wide that it blocks the adjacent port. To solve this is another type is on a short cable to get the wide USB A-part away from the laptop body.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074DRG8RR/
As you can see these are often sold now in 2-packs for less than USD$10. Both kinds are so cheap I got a pair of both, so I have one of each type at the desk and one of each type in my bag.
Note that those adapters support USB 3 gen 1 at 5 Gbit/sec. This is fine for most things. But if maximum speed data transfers are a high priority (for example external SSD with USB 3.1 Gen 2 port), you could spend a little more to make sure you have adapter cables supporting the full 10 Gb/sec speed of the USB 3.1 Gen 2 ports on a current MacBook Pro.
Aukey is an OK brand and that should work just fine. Anker has has incredible customer service almost as good as Oculus so I try to stick with them if they have an available product but the cost a bit more.
'Best' probably involves a fancy RasberryPi setup, but I have found a process that works pretty well for me (based on advice posted here). I got a USB-A to USB-C adapter that goes directly into my phone. I have 'TeslaCam Viewer' on my phone and when I see that there are sentry events I review (and delete) them directly on my phone. That way clips don't pile up and if somebody hit the car I can potentially deal with it while they're still there.
Belkin makes a 3.5mm male audio AUX Jack to USB type A female adapter.
You can possibly use that with this: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Basesailor-Compatible-Chargers-Standard/dp/B079LYHNSR
> https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Basesailor-Compatible-Chargers-Standard/dp/B079LYHNSR
Wow. The ol' double dongle? Headphones (USB-C male) -> Dongle (USB-C female—USB-A-male) -> Dongle (USB-A female—3.55mm male)?
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Basesailor-Compatible-Chargers-Standard/dp/B079LYHNSR
https://www.amazon.com/Electop-USB-3-0-Type-Converter/dp/B07B47V967
You can try to convert to USB A from C instead. I don't know if they will work, I have never owned USB c headphones.
Maybe you can use a type a to type c adapter?
its not usb 3.1 though, but if you dont desperately need 10 gbit/s transfer speeds its fine. If you use this you have so many more options.
How long is your rtx 2070 and what are the measurements for the space thr case will be placed?
For sideloading, would this adapter work?
Are you referring to this?
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Basesailor-Compatible-Chargers-Standard/dp/B079LYHNSR/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=USB+A+to+USB+C+adaptor&qid=1569790665&s=gateway&sr=8-4
Sounds similar to the problems a lot of people are having with CarPlay including myself. I was finally able to fix it with going the route that someone else suggested. It seems as if there’s a problem with cars and the new iPhones recognizing each other as the new iPhone now is designed to use a usb-c charger. If you buy a usb c female to usb male adapter and plug that into your cars usb then plug the charge cable that came with your iPhone into that while your phone is unlocked it should work like normal. Here’s the ones I picked up that work. Only $9 for a 2 pack USB C Female to USB Male Adapter
>Apple USB-C dongle
I think I found it. So this:
https://www.apple.com/shop/product/MU7E2AM/A/usb-c-to-35-mm-headphone-jack-adapter
And then this:
https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Basesailor-Compatible-Chargers-Standard/dp/B079LYHNSR/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_rm?ac_md=0-0-dXNiIGEgdG8gYw%3D%3D-ac_d_rm&crid=1BC7JIT8UI79Z&keywords=usb+a+to+c&pd_rd_i=B079LYHNSR&pd_rd_r=43272f3b-89c0-4e17-8611-5b8523a248f3&pd_rd_w=X2CYE&pd_rd_wg=xmDJh&pf_rd_p=39892eb5-25ed-41d8-aff1-b659c9b73760&pf_rd_r=9RMZEBBH3M96DY7AKSKV&psc=1&qid=1573475130&sprefix=usb+a+to+%2Caps%2C183
Here’s a USB to USB-C Adapter that will work with the Lightning-to-USB-C cable your iPhone came with. Or if you have another old iPhone Lightning Cable with the USB plug on the end that will also work without needed the adapter.
Since my laptop doesn’t have a usb c port, would this adapter work?
Edit: oh wait or am I stupid and the usb c part would go into the headset?
i would probably forgo the headphone jack on your pc and opt for an out board DAC like the $8 Apple DAC and if you don't have usb-c get this adapter then get a 3.5 to RCA splitter and you're in business. Though if you wanted to add a sub that'd be a different conversation.
Is a USB C female to USB A male adapter a legit thing, or am I going to burn my house down and kill my loved ones?
For example, this type of adapter.
You'll still need valid adb drivers. Step 3.
Also, the included cable works great with usb-c; this adapter works great with regular usb.
I bought this from amazon.
USB Type C to HDMI Digital AV Multiport Hub, USB-C (USB3.1) Adapter PD Charger for Nintendo Switch,Portable 4K HDMI Dock for Samsung Dex Station S10/9/8/Note8/9/Tab S4/S5,MacBook Pro/Air 2018,iPad Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JK9DFKH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GWHuDbHCXEZVS
I didn’t want to carry a dock around for the kids when we went to friend’s house. Works great. Had it for 3 weeks. Have used it about 7 days in my home and elsewhere. No problems.
USB Type C to HDMI Digital AV Multiport Hub, USB-C (USB3.1) Adapter PD Charger for Nintendo Switch,Portable 4K HDMI Dock for Samsung Dex Station S10/9/8/Note8/9/Tab S4/S5,MacBook Pro/Air 2018,iPad Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JK9DFKH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cvisDbPQYK528
Maybe something like this?
Belkin F3U200-08INCH DB15 8-Inch USB Joystick Adapter for SideWinder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000067RIV/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_CwmYxbCHGHKP1
Better reviews on this one:
USB game port Adapter Rockfire RM-203 gameport https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HAX7OU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_3xmYxb6KA1WBA
I think you don't understand how these cables work. I use these adapters nearly daily. The steps you are offering are waaaay overboard, and there is an easier way to do this.
edit I googled the harddrive, and saw the full intact bottom. Forgive me, I thought the bottom cover was over top controller, but seeing this shot I know differently.
I would just use 3x 4K monitors and then DisplayFusion ($30) to make it really, really easy to snap windows to top left, top right, bottom left, bottom right.
Each quad would be the same as a 1080P monitor. 3 x 4K = 12 1080P monitors. For stocks and other non-gaming you could easily get a very large 4K monitor in the $250 range (32 - 42").
To drive it I would get 3 x 4K USB 3.0 DisplayLink adapters for about $80 each. Again, this is not a setup for gaming for but for stocks or surfing is absolutely fine. I have made a 4x4k setup that works excellent this way driving 52" cheap TCL's monitors.
you might need to pull an apple and get an adapter for USB C
Cable Matters USB 3.1 Type C (USB-C & Thunderbolt 3 Port Compatible) to DisplayPort 4K 60Hz UHD Adapter in Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K51GM46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qTCpyb1RD05MA
Does anyone have experience with Nintendo licensed refurbished stuff? I am looking to get a second dock and AC adapter on the cheap without bricking the console.
I would recommend Mailiya v006C, zero issues and very clean nicely soldered boards.
Mailiya v006C Wonderful risers.
Don't use Ubit v103C, those things are trash and caused me hours of headache. I opened 7 of them and only 4 worked. Poor soldering, splattered solder, missing solder, poor power. Even the ones that did work did not play nice with the MSI Armor series of cards. I wish I kept them longer to analyze but by the time I had enough I just wanted to get my money back. The ones here... do not buy.
Edit: Thanks for the downvotes. Fuck me for having a bad experience with your precious Ubit.
is a 2200g mobo case psu cheaper than a pentium + asrock deskmini. Is there anything that a 2200g htpc can do that my g4560 one cannot? i have a 4k hdr tv and i use this adapter
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017BQ8I54/ref=twister_B0784TP7M2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
i see they make a new one that does hdr.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077JB28KM/ref=twister_B0784TP7M2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;th=1
should i be getting that new adapter? id be able to watch 4k hdr youtube videos with that new adapter?