(Part 3) Best data storage products according to redditors
We found 29,223 Reddit comments discussing the best data storage products. We ranked the 3,978 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
And Ill just leave THIS here http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-DataTraveler-Predator-1TB-DTHXP30/dp/B00E65QM8O/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1427811497&sr=1-1&keywords=1tb+flash+drive
Why not a 1 TB flash drive?
Purchase external HD, plug in, never worry about space again.
EDIT: For anyone interested, I bought this one
Excuse me, sir. Have you heard about our lord and savior, Kingston HyperX Predator?
There's actually some good stuff in the mix:
I have a 32GB usb like that and everyone is all like "is that a bluetooth receiver? It's a usb stick? Woah how big? WHAT, 32GB, How much was it? Huh, $20."
EDIT: Just thought I would leave a link to the USB, it is pretty good and has fast file speed transfer(sometimes 15mb\s)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00812F7O8
EDIT2: Oh, and they are a total cunt to get out.
[2014] ( http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-DataTraveler-Predator-1TB-DTHXP30/dp/B00E65QM8O)
I came across this last night while browsing eBay. Thought you guys might like a chuckle. There's a load of them, even from Western sellers. If you read the small print, it's basically an 8GB flash drive with hacked firmware. Well I can dream...
Edit:
Apparently you can get 1TB flash drives, not for quite the same price though:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/HyperX-DataTraveler-Predator-Flash-Drive/dp/B00E65QM8O
Reminds me of one of my girlfriend's Comp class quizzes that just happened last month. I was helping her out since she didn't really understand or know a lot about tech. This was one of the questions;
> What's the highest capacity flash drive currently available;
>
> A. 16GB
>
> B. 24GB
>
> C. 64GB
>
> D. 1TB
Well since I know Kingston came out with a 1TB flash drive last year I knew for a 100% fact that D was the right answer.
Nope.
And worst of all it didn't tell us what the correct answer was and since most of the powerpoints the professor gives to her are labeled "2012" I bet the "correct" answer was B. I'm still pissed off.
They can, you can buy a 1TB usb drive
No one is buying them, so they aren't making many
I got a 256gb key for work, it has every single microsoft product on it, bootable, plus Ubuntu, RHEL and VMware and is bootable to install any of those OS's
Yes 4TB WD My Book. Got it over a year ago when it was on sale for $69. Never had an issue and don't notice it at all. Once set up is complete, it just works.
So starting from the ground up.
APC PDUs into two seperate circuits.
The cisco switch is the only device without redundant power. But again, it's only running IPMI which I can't make redudant anyway.
The 4 servers, 2 switches, and qnap are both each plugged into both PDUs.
I set up both Nutanix Clusters (3 node, 1 node). All the VMS on my 3 node are snapshotted and replicated to the 1 node cluster daily for 30 days and monthly for 72 months. Nutanix does not offer a way to export their VMS. No 3-2-1 rule for them.
I shut down a test VM on 3 node cluster and switched to the other 1 node cluster I was doing their data protection on. Hit restore and the vm came right back up on this 1 node cluster. pretty happy with that.
The VMS themselves back up their data daily to the QNAP using emcopy.exe. Qnap has backup software, I just haven't had time to get into it.
These clusters have been up and running for about 2 months. I finally copied all of the old data off the old servers and got them unplugged last night. That was a great feeling.
I am currently running 25 VMs (+3 controller vms). personal, friends, media, mysql, mssql, nginx, mongo, redis, domain controllers, dns, etc all adds up pretty quick. I am a developer by trade, so I have a lot of expermination and code all over the place.
Once pleasant suprise is that since most of my VMs are a clone and I am running the data dedupe, I am getting ~20:1 effeciency. I am only using around 2.5% of my logical data storage.
I refuse to do the exact math, but I am well over $8k into this.
So lets go back to my goals
no single point of failure.
Any cable can pulled and nothing turns off.
If any piece of hardware fails, all my vms continue running.
faster speed.
Nutanix has some voodoo. The VMs disk benchmark is faster than my NVME desktop.
Network copying gets 600mbps+ tends to slow down on transfers of serveral gbs. Needs to investigate more.
some sorta backup.
doing snap shots to secondary cluster.
nutanix allows file level restore from previous snapshots.
data copied to nas daily.
would like actual file level back up to nas eventually.
Since someone will ask. I am running between 4-5 amps on each APC.
Problems I have encountered:
Nutanix does not show the network cards in their web interface. They show up fine in the CLI?
2 Ram sticks were returning ECC errors. Used servers, this is a risk. Monitor your IMPI people!
Watchguard does not technically support Nutanix. So the manager shows a lot of warnings. Support said they are just warnings.
I somehow crashed a nutanix install on the satadom. Was able to get it re installed relatively quickly. requires a live cd to image the disk. I bought a 5th satadom to just have on hand.
No way to monitor the disk SMART info from nutanix that I have found yet.
Hardware List;
2x APC7900
https://www.amazon.com/APC-AP7900-Switched-Surge-Protector/dp/B0000AAAYH
​
Cisco SG110-24
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MDNHKQ4
​
2x QUANTA LB6M 24-PORT 10GBE SFP+
https://www.unixplus.com/products/quanta-lb6m-24-port-10gbe-sfp-4x-1gbe-l2-l3-switch
​
4x SUPERMICRO 1U X9DRI-LN4F+ SERVER
Dual E5-2650 V2, 128gb Ram (8x16gb)
https://unixsurplus.com/collections/1u-servers/products/supermicro-1u-x9drw-3ln4f-dual-intel-xeon-e5-2670-octo-core-2-6ghz-1u-server
​
4x Intel X520-DA2 10Gbps SFP+
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833106044
​
8x WD Blue 1tb SSD
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX
​
4x 16gb SATADOM
https://www.amazon.com/Supermicro-SSD-DM016-PHI-16GB-SATADOM/dp/B00NGBW5GM/
​
6x WD RE 2tb spinny drives (Nutanix 3 node cluster) (pulled from last lab)
2x WD RE 4tb spinny drives (Nutanix 1 node cluster) (pulled from last lab)
​
QNAP TS-432XU-RP-2G-US
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DWC85JH/
​
4x WD 6tb Red Pro
https://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Red-Hard-Drive/dp/B07B1HX5KN/
I always enjoyed this way of putting it:
>The iPhone 6 uses an Apple-designed 64 bit Cortex A8 ARM architecture composed of approximately 1.6 billion transistors. It operates at 1.4 GHZ and can process instructions at a rate of approximately 1.2 instructions every cycle in each of its 2 cores. That’s 3.36 billion instructions per second. Put simply, the iPhone 6’s clock is 32,600 times faster than the best Apollo era computers and could perform instructions 120,000,000 times faster. You wouldn’t be wrong in saying an iPhone could be used to guide 120,000,000 Apollo era spacecraft to the moon, all at the same time.
You could, technically, take the amount of computing power in an iPhone 6, and send 120,000,000 Apollo 11s to the moon. 120 MILLION.
Here's another. This is a picture from 1956 of a 5-megabyte hard drive being brought out of a plane.
Sixty years later, here's the biggest consumer-available USB drive, which is 200,000 times bigger in storage size. It just blows me away.
Also this one: http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Cruzer-Flash-Drive-SDCZ33-032G-B35/dp/B00812F7O8
You wouldn't pay $64.99 to get this data back? If this data isn't even worth that much to you then I guess this really isn't such a big deal.
Seagate Backup Plus Slim 2TB Portable External Hard Drive USB 3.0, Silver + 2mo Adobe CC Photography (STDR2000101) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FRHTTIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3wGPBb8W8P9FG
1tb version also $81 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K1J3C23/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
EDIT: Nevermind, this one is gone already. Went super fast.
Hello,
Congrats on your BTC find! The internet is a dangerous place, and you're talking some Buku money here. I have some suggestions for you for the moment, and I'm going to break it down a little assuming you are new to Cryptocurrency:
Please take the steps to secure those funds safely. Never give ANYONE any passwords, keys, or any other information about your Bitcoin. Once the money is transferred or lost you can't get it back. Try to keep this investment on the DL as much as you can because I'm serious, you'll have all these people coming out of the wood work trying to hit you up for money including your own family. Greed is a powerful thing.
If you have any additional questions on the Ledger process or the splitting process with the Bitcoin Cash (BCH) just fire away, I literally just did this last week for the umpteenth time and would be happy to send you a writeup on how to do it all. I previously was using paper wallets stored in a vault but the Ledger is so much better and safer.
Also, you're gonna get a lot of "experts" telling you what to reinvest this into. If you don't want to kick yourself later: Do not sell your BTC, do not reinvest your BTC into any other cryptocurrency. No Litecoin, no Ether, no Dash, Monero, Steem, Stratis, no ICOs (all ICOS are scams), nothing. A lot of people will also try to sway you off the Bitcoin "Bullet Train" and onto their slow fiat currency Donkey Express options like Mutual Funds and all that jazz "for safety". Hop on www.coinmarketcap.com and look at Bitcoin's chart but zoomed out to monthly and yearly. Keep an eye on those two charts only, smile at the haters, and send them on their way.
Take care and good luck! You have a bright future ahead of you.
You should get an SSD. 512GB, or better yet, 1TB. They've really fallen in price. Amazon has the WD Blue SSD for $115 and that's what I have. I'm crying (not literally, LOL) because I paid $300 for that. And it's amazing. I don't regret it. I mean, I know you're being facetious about 20 minutes to launch an app store, but with an SSD, you can go from your computer having been off a week, to you reading Reddit, in like six seconds flat. I'm not kidding. It's stupid fast. Your computer is probably faster than you think. The bottleneck is your hard drive. Replace it with an SSD, and let the app stores start when the computer does.
There are apps that combine all your games into one place, kind of like what Steam does, but for all the app stores, plus emulators. The main one I know of is called LaunchBox. Personally I think it's a giant pain in the knob, but I respect the hustle. I mean, I'm lazy. If I want to play a game, I just launch it from the start menu. If you launch the game, it'll launch any dependencies in the background, and that's that. It's never been an issue. LaunchBox is free, by the way, with a $20 pro version that does some cool shit. And the author sounds like a great guy. If you like what you see, definitely try it out. Maybe the all-in-one launcher thing is for you. I'm old school. Same with music... I don't do music libraries, I just play the songs out of my file manager. Old school. It's worked for ~20 years, why change it?
WD 4TB My Book Desktop External Hard Drive - USB 3.0 - WDBFJK0040HBK-NESN https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3RH61W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.-WQybX2CFSRM
I got it for like $100 several months ago. I just plugged it in and formatted it and never have had a problem.
Pick up the 1TB 7200rpm HGST drive for $55. Twice the space, a little faster then stock drive, runs very quiet and cool. Great upgrade, loved mind in my PS4 and pro before I went SSD
https://www.amazon.com/HGST-Travelstar-2-5-Inch-Internal-0J22423/dp/B00B4QESVQ
http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-DataTraveler-Predator-1TB-DTHXP30/dp/B00E65QM8O
even worse...
Is this the hard drive used?
Seagate Backup Plus Slim 2TB Portable External Hard Drive STDR2000101 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FRHTTIA/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_gO62tb16RZ1S4
Instead of that SSD, I would probably pick up an m.2 card as they are extremely cheap right now. I would go with the Intel 660p 1 TB. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GCL6BR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ptTPCbS4ABCAW
At the time of posting, this Sandisk 480GB SSD is only £50.99...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01F9G46Q8
...which isn't much more for a well known brand. Only downside is you can't make a swear word from the name, with or without a tipp-ex.
You do know that flash drives can be basically just the size of the connector right?
https://smile.amazon.com/SanDisk-Cruzer-Low-Profile-Drive-SDCZ33-016G-B35/dp/B005FYNSZA?sa-no-redirect=1
Get one of these and have an OS on it, plug it in the laptop when you travel and have USB as the first boot option. It is so small no one would notice it, when you want to actually boot up just remove it.
StarTech.com 12U Open Frame Server Rack - Adjustable Depth - 4-Post Data Rack - w/ Casters/Levelers/Cable Management Hooks (4POSTRACK12U) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P1RJ9LS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DoMTCb9DXNQTC
https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-DataTraveler-Predator-1TB-DTHXP30/dp/B00E65QM8O
A 1TB Thumb drive looks like it runs about $1200.
Unfortunately, pricing hasn't been released yet but I expect it to be more expensive than Samsung's 950 Pro M.2 512GB PCIe NVMe: $313.99 USD.
BGA SSD: 16 mm x 20 mm x 1.5 mm = 480 mm^3 = 0.48 cm^3.
Equivalent volume in gold: 0.48 cm^3 = 0.297567 troy oz.
Today's spot gold price: $1,215.20 per troy oz.
$1,215.20 x 0.297567 = $361.60 USD
Inventory:
pfSense:
Snort, pfBlockerNG, OpenVPN, Squid, ClamAV, Default deny ingress/egress FW, etc.
ZOTAC ZBOX NUC
Kingston 120GB SSD
Crucial 8GB DDR3L RAM
ESXi Hypervisor:
Skull Canyon NUC
32GB DDR4 RAM
Samsung 950 Pro 512GB M.2 SSD
Virtual Machines I'm currently running.
Splunk - Receives my FW, DNS, Snort, and OSSEC logs. I have dashboards to filter this data.
Snorby - Also receives my Snort logs. I like this a little better than Splunk as I can view packet contents.
OSSEC - I used this for file integrity and endpoint monitoring on my servers and desktop. Functions as a host based IDS.
Nessus - I use this every once in a while to see if there are any open holes. Otherwise, I just use nmap and iptables to close everything off.
Unifi Controller - for managing my AP.
Wireless:
Ubiquiti Unifi AP-AC Lite
Switch:
TP-LINK 8-Port Gigabit L2 Switch
RetroPi + Monitor:
RPi3
10.1 Inch IPS HDMI Monitor
My VMs, configs, and files are backed up to a HDD I keep offline. I'm thinking about adding a NAS into the mix for somewhere around 200-400 dollars. Low energy consumption preferably if anyone had any recommendations. :)
This is the best flash drive option for Wii. It doesn't overheat and it has great compatibility. It even works with UNEEK + DI, and most USB drives I've tested don't.
I could be wrong but the link from the OP looks like a referral link.
Anyhow posting a link to the same product via Amazon smile
https://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-SB-ROCKET-512-Rocket-Internal-Performance/dp/B07KGMBCKD/
Link to said Sabrent Rocket: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-SB-ROCKET-512-Rocket-Internal-Performance/dp/B07KGMBCKD
These are ST3000DM008 not to be confused with the infamous ST3000DM001 which are probably the worst rated HDD's on the market. In a similar situation to Corsair's CX line it's easy to tell by the product information and product branding that this is the newer drive.
For those that want to check out amazon reviews https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000DM008/dp/B01IEKG4NE
I'm by no means endorsing this product but I don't want to have people immediately start screaming about "SEAGATE 3TB DRIVES"
My thoughts too. The library of congress is under 20 TB.
You can now buy a 1 TB thumb stick if you want A Mars Mission has no reason NOT to bring copies of every written work ever created.
That all said, don't leave out the Red Mars series by KSR!
I'm 99% sure that it's not actually 2 TB.
The largest I know of is 1 TB and costs a bit over $1000.
EDIT: Found this, pretty much the same thing as OP has but a "Sony" - basically confirms it's fake: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWeceqSKVNE
EDIT 2: There's a pretty good deal on the REAL 1 TB one on Amazon
1 TB Flash drive: http://amazon.com/dp/B00E65QM8O
Yup, here's the link to the HDD used in the guide.
Typical Gig Bag:
https://imgur.com/a/MfXGy
Terrible deal. Spend $6 less and get a much better drive.
Kingston 1TB flash drive
Only $950.
i just made the switch from traktor and the S4 to CDJs and to be honest there is nothing more liberating than being able to show up with a pair of thumb drives and a pair of headphones and performing just as freeform as I did in traktor, albeit with 1/100th the library access (but hey, maybe one day I'll win the lottery and upgrade to the new shit).
I'll go down by about 20 bucks within the next couple weeks if you care to wait. the sale from bestbuy cycles up and down. You can also get a mybook from amazon if you need it now, which also has 256mb cache whitelabel reds in them. Do not get 4TB mybooks though, they will have blue/greens.
Why would people not be able to do that? At 1MB every 10 minutes, the blockchain grows by 52.5GB every year. That's not a lot. A 3TB hard drive costs under $100 today. If block sizes were upgraded to 8MB tomorrow, and blocks would instantly become completely full, that'll increase storage costs by over 12 dollars per year. You also have to keep in mind that hard drive capacities grow about tenfold every 5-10 years, so growing the size of blocks by 10x every 5-10 years won't result in any increase in cost.
Hopefully you didn't spend much OP. There is no such thing as a 2tb flash drive. Kingston currently makes a 1tb flash drive which costs ~900 USD but it looks gooooooood. A simple google search will tell you that sandisk doesn't make a flash drive of that size. It'll fill up way before that 100gb mark. I'd say around 8-32gb.
Wow I just found out that they actually exist. You can get one here for a whopping 899.99
It's very easy. Takes about 10 minutes. This is the cheapest option for a 2TB drive But you do need to remove the drive from the enclosure to put it in the PS4.
Price, its nearly twice as expensive
Samsung 850 Pro SSD $170
Samsung 950 EVO NVME PCIE $320
Well you could technically, if you slap one of these onto the $400-500 "console killer" builds: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-512GB-PCIe-NVMe/dp/B01639694M/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1449103311&sr=8-7&keywords=intel+ssd+nvme
Note that loading speeds are pretty much all about storage, and any of the builds on those ranges has more than enough CPU power to process the transfer. You could also RAMdisk it, but that'll probably be more expensive unless your rig's already running 32GB for some reason.
A few good SSD deals on amazon
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQ8RM1A
I bought this one didn't realize it was different
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQ8RM1A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is what I use. Its 4tb and under $150. I also think it loads games faster than the internal hard drive the xbox has, but I'm not too sure.
Whoa. Yeah. Not bad. Regardless. That's still more expensive. Right now for 128$ you can get 1TB Samsung M.2 SSD's.
x9 90$ = 180$, still more expensive. About the same as the HP NVME's really.
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-660p-1-0TB-80mm-978350/dp/B07GCL6BR4
Not to shabby. You're right. Regardless, it's still 32$ more. One could claim "Future proof", but it really isn't. By the time we're needing NVME speeds (I can't even imagine it happening within 7-10 years) in regular workloads, prices will be down more or something even better will exist.
But damn if that isn't a tempting price. Still got a M.2 slot open on my board lol.
Regardless:
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/intel-ssd-660p-qlc-nvme,5719-2.html
There's a reason they're so cheap. Almost half the speed of a Samsung NVME drive. Realistically, if the reason you want a NVME drive is because they're "faster" than SSDs, the Intel one doesn't make too much sense.
I dunno. The whole almost 4Gbps to me is the big deal about NVme. 1.8Gbps isn't too big a deal. My friend had 2Gbps years ago with a raid array of 4 500GB SSDs.
If you're gonna go NVME, might as well go Samsung or at least any that break the 3K+ mark.
your link takes me to amazon search here is the actual item's link-
https://smile.amazon.com/Intel-660p-1-0TB-80mm-978350/dp/B07GCL6BR4
thanks so much for the heads up, ive been waiting to grab an nvme. amazon works best as it will be here tomorrow!
Cheaper and better RAM.
Very slightly Cheaper, bigger and possible better SSD
Cheaper GPU(Although not sure about delivery costs)
I'm sure there are other case that are cheaper but looks are subjective so I wont bother linking any.
Any money saved for the love of god get a better quality PSU. Even if it is something lower end like a Corsair VS or Cooler Master MWE, neither are great supplies but better than any Game Max one I'd bet. Remember the PSU is the corner stone of your build, never ever try and save money on it.
WE CAN DO THIS! WE HAVE THE TECHNOLOGY!
Luke warm at best
​
$55 for 2TB all the time
​
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Portable-External-Photography-STDR2000101/dp/B00FRHTTIA/ref=sr_1_8?crid=216ZA4RJMHXVN&keywords=2tb+external+hard+drive&qid=1556030006&s=gateway&sprefix=2tb%2Caps%2C501&sr=8-8
You said where, not cheap.
This isn't priced too bad
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Adjustable-Levelers-Management-4POSTRACK12U/dp/B00P1RJ9LS/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1427124570&sr=8-12&keywords=12u+rack
That is entry level price.
FAT32 supports drives up to 16 TB. These USB drives come with a single 128 GB FAT32 partition already created on them.
Edit: Someone below reported that they received this drive as EXFAT. I got 3 of them last week as FAT32, so your mileage may vary.
http://www.amazon.com/128GB-Swivel-Flash-Memory-Storage/dp/B00O35H21I/
But you are better off paying a little more.
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-128GB-Flash-MUF-128BB-AM/dp/B017DH3O5A
2.5 inch
If you're going to go that route, pick up a Trezor or Nano Ledger S. A hardware wallet (cold storage) is the most secure.
e Trezor Nano Ledger S
Also $110 at amazon with prime shipping
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BQ8RM1A?vs=1
Warning: mobile link, don't know how to fix
Incase anybody was wondering here is what I am carrying:
Speck Iphone case/wallet holds 4 cards + 1 bill.
32gb Sandisk USB Drive
Leatherman Style CS
I originally did this install back in the day when these were first popping up and down, major credit goes to /u/zedix as I'm pretty sure he was the first one on Nasioc to start this whole trend for Subarus.
My first installation used a head unit that was tucked away behind everything. However the weak pre-amp, and the constant loss of settings (disconnecting battery), and lack on Steering Wheel controls really got annoying. So I set out on this Version 2 project.
*96svx.dc - David was an amazing resource with getting the required harnesses for an 08+, as my car came with a 24pin + 12pin adapter (premium nav) it was very hard to find 2 reverse harnesses that would make this install doable.**
I created a double din sized Acrylic box from 1/4" sheets cut to size by a local shop... Here are the outer dimensions if you are interested in making a similar box to hold all of this.
Hardest part out of the whole install was coming up with the wiring scheme, as all of this is fed off of 12v ignition. The tablet needed to be able to charge, and the USB hub needed to receive power separate from the OTG y-splitter. I simply spliced into the cheap-o USB hubs and made my own DIY 5v USB hubs.
Also on sale at the same price on Amazon, in case that's a preference.
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-240GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-CT240M500SSD1/dp/B00BQ8RM1A/ref=lp_10152137011_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1415030125&sr=1-5
No.
4tb for $120.
http://www.amazon.com/Book-Desktop-External-Drive-WDBFJK0040HBK-NESN/dp/B00E3RH61W
If you can go with this Intel Solid State Drive (SSD), 660P Series, 1 TB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GCL6BR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_R9BSDbA8SK3N1
So you haven't seen this yet huh?
I use a Seagate 4TB, I have about 230 games installed and it's at about 54% used, how much is enough is up to you.
Seagate Backup Plus 4TB USB 3.0 is the one I am looking at if I switch to 2.5" drives. They are $110 to $120 on amazon or newegg or similarly priced a number of other places.
Model numbers are STDR4000100 (black), STDR4000901 (blue), STDR4000902 (red), and STDR4000900 (silver), but the internals are the same.
Article on shucking them
It's also $100 on Amazon, which is a much better place to buy from. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01IEKG4NE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1
I just got mine on Amazon in 2 days for $85
Ledger Nano S Cryptocurrency Hardware Wallet
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J66NF46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_qOx6vkvNHlEpB
7200rpm
Amazon also matched it link
Estimated Total $1736 +tax and shipping
There're a few areas you could scrimp to get to $1500. This is basically my build, but I went with 4 nodes, a bigger switch, and a cheap 4 pack of longer cables (10gtek's 4 packs have a decent discount). If the price of the Intel 660p has your attention for multiple capacity drives, I suggest an x470 or x570 mobo that can do x4x4x4x4 bifurcation on the x16 slot and then use a quad m.2 board without a PCIe switch for them (ones from ASUS and ASrock are ~$100 which can negate any cost savings). There are boards with a PCIe switch that will work with the above board, but they're very expensive.
If you get a MikroTik switch, use RouterOS because SwOS apparently has bugs beyond what I experienced. If you get one of their PoE switches, be careful with non-PoE devices. Mine was working fine, but I triggered a bug in SwOS and it toasted some gear; I need to have a conversation with MikroTik and the seller to see what can be done about what got toasted.
Well, first off: OS X 10.11 El Capitan isn't the newest macOS version for your MacBook Pro. Your MacBook pro actually supports macOS 10.13 High Sierra. High Sierra can still be downloaded from the Mac App Store, it is just hidden. Here is the link to it (click this link in Safari only, not in Chrome or Firefox!):
OS X El Capitan went out of support in the fall of 2018, so it has been missing out on security for quite some time. Every major macOS version has 1 year of mainstream support (the time frame between its own initial release and the initial release of its successor one year later) and two years of security support immediately after that. Security support includes Safari updates.
Mainstream support for High Sierra has already ended, but its security support only ends in the fall of 2020. So if you update your MacBook Pro to High Sierra, it is still safe to use.
-----
You can speed your machine up by adding more RAM and an SSD to it:
Your MacBook Pro supports up to 16 GB RAM (2 x 8 GB RAM modules). A higher amount than that won't work due to a limitation in the logic board.
You need to buy RAM that matches the following specifications:
PC3-8500 1066 MHz DDR3, 204-pin
Those are some examples of RAM that should work:
-----
As for the SSD, your MacBook Pro supports every SSD that meets the following criteria:
Here are some examples of SSDs that should work:
Before you install the SSD, it is advisable to create a backup of the files you want to keep. Store them on some external drive.
You can then reinstall macOS either via Internet Recovery or a macOS 10.13 High Sierra installer USB-Stick (which is the last OS your MacBook Pro supports).
-----
As for the battery: The battery is replaceable in MacBook Pros 2010. However, you won't be able to get an OEM battery Apple uses, most likely. Those are sold out by now and no longer available, unless you are extremely lucky. There are third party batteries that work, though, like this one for the 13" version(!):
-----
> I also heard mixed things about the new butterfly keyboards, but overall it seems once you get used to them they make your typing faster? So that sounds good for me if it's true
The problem is less the feeling of the butterfly keyboard; beauty is in the eye of the beholder. The problem is that the butterfly keys sometimes outright fail if small particles - like dust - intrude under them. I have discussed the problem here (last paragraph):
Grab one while you can!
Back in Stock for now edit: Price-match for amazon went through if you wanna grab it there instead https://smile.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-500GB-SSD-WDS500G2B0A/dp/B073SBZ8YH
I use these. Fucking. Amazing. Sits almost flush and I have 40+ gigs (a 32gb and a 16gb). They would be PERFECT for your xbox as well, Buy 2 - $40 - extra 64 gb of HDD space. You put all your music in folders I just name the folder the CD or artist. I can then search by spelling. Technology is amazing.
Buy a separate hard drive and a USB-C enclosure. Pre-manufactured external drives have the ports soldered to the disk, so if the ports fail, you can't remove the hard drive and re-use it. It's always better to just put together your own external hard drive because of this.
Here's another reason for "making" your own external drives: Let's say you had an old, non-USB-C hard drive enclosure. You could easily just put the drive in a new USB-C enclosure instead of having to buy an entirely new external drive.
I can't find any info on this on Western Digital's website. Is there a place that lists the OEM drive inside of different external enclosures? I realize that a manufacturer like Western Digital might put different OEM drives (Hitachi/WD) into the same enclosure as long as the specs are the same. But still, it would be nice to have somewhere to check to see what you're getting inside that plastic.
Edit: finally found a phrase that gave me what I wanted on Google. "what drive is inside wd my book" was it.
>We can only guarantee drive capacity. We cannot guarantee a particular internal hard drive model, data interface, rotational speed, or cache size in the external hard drive enclosure.
Source from WD's website
That's crazy to me. That means that the $130 4TB WD My book might have a $128 5400 RPM Drive or potentially a $200 7200 RPM Drive.
They only guarantee capacity? That's crazy to me. I assume they do this so that when they buy another manufacturer's stuff like they did with Hitachi, they can get rid of old stock without having to worry about matching specs. That's honestly great news as long as they're selling the External at about the same price as their cheapest OEM drive. Some lucky guy is getting free random upgrades.
This 4 TB hard drive to hold all your anime.
For 80 more you can get a way nicer 4 post StarTech one with free shipping from Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Adjustable-Levelers-Management-4POSTRACK12U/dp/B00P1RJ9LS
Not the exact model I have under my desk, but I have a similar one from them and love it.
Not my blog, I came across this when searching for options for my own lab. At $99, it's not in the same ubercheap league as the $9 LACK, but with all the time and materials I see some people put into LACK mods, perhaps it's not that much more after all. Looks like it could manage about 10-12U, though limited to 50kg.
Also at that price, the BROR is approaching this $185 StarTech 12U, which lacks a top surface.
Thinking about pulling the trigger on this one. What are your thoughts?
If you're willing to shuck, you can get 4TB seagate drives from their externals for a little over $100. They're just barracudas inside (15mm, make sure you have compatible bays), but they seem fine to me. I shucked a couple of them a couple months ago and they've been fine so far. Better than my 1TB red 2.5s in terms of speed.
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Backup-Portable-External-STDR4000100/dp/B00ZTRXFBA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497015786&sr=8-2&keywords=seagate+4tb+external
Note that this is a SATA M.2 drive, so it won't be any faster than the 2.5" version. It's just smaller form factor. To get the speed gains, you need a PCI-E M.2 like this one.
Still a good deal! I'm just saving my M.2 slot.
the patriot scorch is nvme.. it isn't quite a fair fight
but keep in mind that drive is nvme 1.2 ... most are 1.3 now
if you want NVME, this Sabrent Rocket for 60 is MUCH better for an NVME drive for only a few dollars more
/u/paulatreides0, /u/jetjaguar124, u/WeAreAwful
This is not my best guide, but it is a guide. Refinements welcome.
I wish I knew where to post the refined version, because it seems wasted
on the ephemeral DT.
PC building notes, 2019 Q3
Introduction
This post is a a "guide" to PC building in late 2019. It is incomplete
in two senses. First, I make no special claims to authority or objectivity.
I'm just an enthusiast. I have only personally tested a fraction of the parts
listed below. Second, I am writing this before the Intel 10th-gen refresh
and before the release AMD's flagship 3950X. Those new parts may impact some
of the advice given below.
This guide is extremely opinionated. I will simplify and exaggerate to
keep things simple.
This post was written while drinking whisky and listening to
enka.
Internals
What's inside your PC
A PC has seven core components. They are,
and hard disk.
A word first on compatibility. The skeleton of the build is the motherboard,
and you have to make sure that every other bit is compatible with your board.
There are two CPU manufacturers, AMD and Intel; each has their own CPU
design and thus has their own motherboard type. RAM, storage, PSUs, and GPUs
are all cross-compatible with either AMD or Intel motherboards.
Motherboards come in different sizes. A case will be compatible with certain
size ranges. From small to big, these are ITX, m-ATX, ATX, and
E-ATX. You'll want to check that your motherboard can fit in your case.
CPUs
AMD's most current CPUs are the 3000-series Ryzen chips. There are a bunch
of them, but the only two you have to care about are the
The other options are the 3600X, the 3800X, and the 3900X. None of these
are interesting compared to the two listed above, and can be safely ignored.
Intel's current CPUs are the 9th-gen Core chips. I would only seriously
consider two of these chips,
and I'd ignore the rest. If you want to spend less than $350 on a CPU,
then go AMD. If you want to spend more than $350 on a CPU,
go Intel.
A word about prior-gen chips. The AMD 2000 series (2700X, 2600) and the
Intel 8th gen series (8700K) are still viable at the right price. Look at
benchmarks. More on that later.
A word about lower-spec CPUs. AMD sells cheap CPUs that have integrated
graphics. That means you don't need to buy a graphics card with these chips.
As such, a build with the 3400G or 3200G can be extremely inexpensive. Consider
them for office use or basic builds that don't require heavy graphics.
I have personally tested them and they play 4K video flawlessly; they should
be perfectly adequate for basic tasks.
For scientific workloads, ask me to write another post. I can't cover
everything here.
Motherboard
Motherboards only accept either AMD or Intel CPUs, but not both, so you must
choose a board that is compatible with your CPU.
Once you decide between AMD or Intel, you can proceed to figure out which
motherboard you want. There are approximately six billion boards. For AMD,
skip the hassle and just buy the
Note the "MAX." The Tomahawk was released during the 1000- and 2000-series
of AMD processors. The MAX variant is compatible with 3000-series chips
out of the box.
For Intel, I know far less. Any Z390 board should be acceptable.
For AMD, the new X570 boards are available as well. They are pricey and
overkill for 90% of desktop users. Feel free to skip them. Look out for the
B550 boards that are to be released in 2020Q1.
GPU
There are two main manufacturers of GPUs: AMD and Nvidia. Confusingly, they
do not sell GPUs themselves, but market them through partners like MSI,
EVGA, PowerColor, Sapphire, etc.
The GPU stack is a little confusing.
That chart lists all of the main GPUs on the market, and if you count, there
are over 25 GPUs listed. Multiply 25 GPUs by 10 or so board partners,
multiplied again by the fact that each partner sells multiple types of the same
GPU, and you have a recipe for an absolute nightmare of a market.
The prices are only approximate.
Let me cut through the fog. You should buy one of
Pick your price point.
RAM
RAM is distinguished by its generation. We are currently on DDR4, with
DDR5 to come in either 2020 or 2021. This part is easy. Just buy
16GB of DDR4 3200-speed RAM and be done with it.
This kit
will set you back $75 to $85 depending on the day of the week and will perform
adequately for 99.98% of users.
Storage
In 2019, there is no excuse for not buying fast solid-state storage.
For 90% of users, you should buy either the 500GB or 1TB variant of the
Intel 660p and call it a day.
This reviewer
is 100% paid off by Intel, but he's also right on this topic. Buy a 660p
and rest easy.
For enthusiasts, the 660p uses new, cheap, somewhat fragile QLC NAND technology
and you might want to go with a Samsung 970 instead.
That does it for your boot drive. If you need further long-term storage for
music, movies, videos, games, etc, look into either Seagate or WD's 8TB to
12TB options.
I personally have a few WD Gold 12TB drives. They're pricey, but they're
enterprise-grade and haven't done me wrong yet. My firm, which buys storage
by the truckload, loves these things. They rarely fail.
I personally am using a 660p for OS, a second SSD for
some of my media, and HDDs for long-term storage.
Power
I have neither the time nor the expertise to get into a deep discussion of
power supplies. The topic is apparently very complicated. You should buy
something in the 550W to 750W from a manufacturer like Corsair, EVGA,
or CoolerMaster. Make sure it has the number of VGA connectors that your GPU
requires.
Case
The case is the place to really personalize your build. Try not to spend
more than $100, though; at the end of the day, it's just a steel box.
Peripherals
In some ways, the bits outside the computer are more important than the bits
inside. After all, these are the bits you interact with on a daily basis.
Monitors
Monitors are distinguished by size and resolution.
The resolutions available are 1080p, 1440p, and 4K. I recommend the following.
You may also care about refresh rate; the most common refresh rates are 60Hz
and 144Hz. These only matter for gaming.
One particular sweet spot is the "1440p, 27", 144Hz refresh rate" class. Look
up benchmarks and comparison videos.
Keyboard
Pick to taste. Some swear by mechanical keyboards. Others buy standalone
keyboards that mimic the laptop keyboard that they're used to.
Mouse
I have used the Logitech G500 and Logitech G403, and both are fine. They're
somewhat expensive and will run you about $70.
Sound
There are a million ways to fulfill your sound needs. For wired headsets,
the bone-stock recommendation is the AudioTechnica ATH-M50x.
For speakers, I can recommend the Klipsch 2+1.
For more earphone and headphone suggestions, ask me for an extended discussion.
Chair and desk
Don't neglect these. You'll be sitting at that chair for several hours per
day, and you'll use that desk forever. Measure how wide your monitors will be
and buy a desk accordingly. Go to an office supply shop and sit in a few chairs;
pick one that you like. Your desk and chair will last forever, so don't be
afraid to spend a little money here.
Advice
Read Logical Increments in its entirety.
Watch videos from real, serious hardware reviewers. I recommend
Gamers Nexus, Paul's Hardware, and Hardware Unboxed. Anyone else is either
subpar or bought out or provides worthless advice.
Do research, think for yourself, and ask me questions. I'll either give you
advice or point you to reliable resources if I think my advice would be lacking.
1 TB is available at Amazon @ 129 with the clip coupon
Meh, SX8200 Pro is cheaper.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07K1J3C23
For another $7.30, the Sabrent Rocket 512gb is much better.
I would suggest not doing what you are asking.
Keep the SD card you have. Get a USB drive. They're half as much, and you can add on to the space you already have.
Here is one that is ~$28. Compared to ~$55 micro SD Card..
If you keep your current card and get a USB, you would have about 160 GB of space combined. It will also save you $20.
In my personal experience, I went from a 32 GB card that was supported and worked great, to one step up to a 64 GB (same model, just a larger size). For whatever reason the card can't read continuously, which causes pausing while browsing and stuttering during PS1 movie intros. I ordered two of them, and both have the same issues. I did lots of testing, Pi 2 and Pi 3, 2 different 32 GB cards and 2 different 64 GB cards. The 64 GB cards just had issues with reading and occasionally writing. There were never errors, or bad writes, just delays which can cause pausing. Putting the PS1 games on a USB drive solved that.
Edit: If you're using all the ports on the Pi, then upgrading the card might be less of a headache.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-PLUS-Sata-Inch-Internal/dp/B01F9G46Q8/ref=sr_1_5?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1538150240&sr=1-5&keywords=500gb+ssd
According to Camel Camel Camel, Amazon's lowest was $88.49
​
Source: https://ca.camelcamelcamel.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000DM008/product/B01IEKG4NE?context=search
​
Edit: Changed $88.99 -> $88.49
If you need even more storage: 2TB for $65, shipped (2.5" USB powered) or 4TB for $100, shipped
(2.5" USB powered).
Here's an 8TB for $160, shipped (3.5" externally powered).
Guessing this for WD and this one for Seagate?
If you've got Prime you can get it from Amazon for basically the same price (came to $0.01 more for me).
Even with an SSD, it still takes way too long.
Having said that, I highly recommend getting an SSD. One of the best component upgrades you can make. I can't imagine ever going back to an HDD. They're dirt cheap nowadays too ($110 for 1TB).
As are 1TB flash drives, if you're willing to lay down a serious chunk of change.
Fixed link for not potato users
That's damn fat, that's probably 3-4 boards stacked. One I had that died not long ago had two boards stacked.
These 3 are ridiculous. Especially the micro sd one.
Flash Drive
SD
Micro SD
1TB is here now, 2TB not far away. But not much of a market for $2730 USB drives.
On amazon you can buy this actual 1TB one for $879USD.
Hows that rack? Ive been thinking about getting it. Is that the 12u one on amazon? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P1RJ9LS/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1JAYHJ4JB7V1Y&colid=AWG4AGG39ESQ&th=1
I got a external all the way back when I got into the beta that added external support and been using it on my Pro with rest mode since day 1 and haven't ever had to repair anything or run into any issues.
Drive I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZTRXFBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MfOPzbPVS2Z5M
Makes sense.
Blocks continue to increase in size- True, but at the same time, hard drive space and bandwidth is getting cheaper. Right now we're at 100GB or so worth of blockchain data. I can buy a 4TB drive on Amazon for $100.
That said, obviously the blockchain size growth can't increase faster than storage availability without causing some centralization. But we are nowhere there yet, and I don't think that's a valid reason to avoid a 2MB upgrade today.
Thoughts on that?
As for contentious forks, keep in mind BCH (an intentional fork to make a different currency) is different than 2X / Unlimited / Classic / XT (controversial attempts to change Bitcoin itself). This is an important difference. Right now the main issue of contention is the 2X hard fork- SegWit2x was an industry agreement to do a one time hard fork to 2MB and also activate SegWit. Now that SW activated there are those who say the 2X part should be abandoned.
However I'd point out that the 2X part carries strong support from miners and most Bitcoin companies. The only ones who really make it controversial are the Core developers, who are against it. If Core was in favor, just about any observer would agree that there is full consensus. However Core has made no plans or explanation for how or when a block size increase will be done (even though it's obvious one will be needed eventually, even with SegWit).
Thoughts on that?
As for BCH, I don't see it harming Bitcoin. Everyone seems to understand that BCH and BTC are now different, and obviously a lot of people like BCH as evidenced by its strong price support.
I think the bottleneck is the latency that occurs between geographically separated validators of the network. U have to give validators around 1,5-2 seconds and they also need some time to generate a block (process transactions) when they are assigned to it. Adding a small safety margin i guess 3-4 seconds is the limit and afaik Casper is aiming for exactly that.
It's a globally p2p network in the end. Thats why scaling horizontally with sharding is the right approach.
Btw: one of the fastest ledger close intervals i know can be found on the Ripple consensus ledger (~3.5 sec). I know their network topology favors centralization and currently the network is still run by 5 validators all controlled by Ripple but still: their tech is solid.
https://charts.ripple.com/#/metrics (Scroll down to "Ledger Close Interval")
Processing power only becomes important for the individual validator i think - the more ETH at stake, the more blocks will be assigned to that validator and the more processing power u will need to process all those transactions (and collect all those juicy fees...).
I remember Vitalik taking i wild guess that, depending on network usage, anything under 10k ETH could be staked with regular consumer hardware. My guess is that not only u will need a strong CPU but also quite a bit of RAM (which has become very cheap) and a fast storage medium ( NVMe SSDs are awesomely fast, around 3-5 times faster than regular SSDs)
Ubuntu 16.04 supports NVMe drives fine, My new computer has Ubuntu installed on a Samsung NVMe drive. The only issue is that hibernation wouldn't work unless the swap partition was put on a different drive.
The GParted included with 16.04 won't show NVMe drives unless you put the drive location in the launch command for GParted, which can make it look like Ubuntu can't see the drives. The other 'Disks' utiltiy and the installer both could see the drive immediately.
If you have the $$$: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07857Y17V/
If you don't: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07855LJ99/
or
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-128GB-Flash-MUF-128BB-AM/dp/B017DH3O5A/
Does it need to be USB 3.0? You said you'd like it to be discrete and extra small flash drives, in general, are slower. They often will not break USB 2.0 speeds of about 48MBp/s. e.g. Sandisk Cruzr Fit is one of the smallest flash drives I know of and dismissing it for being USB2.0 is senseless because it wont reach write/read speeds that fast. I don't know how reliable that hook will be for keychain use though.
The Sandisk Extreme on the other hand has a sturdy keychain hook, and would actually utilize USB 3.0 speeds. I'm also a fan of the Kingston Ultimate G3 when it comes to read/write speeds for cheap. However, neither are terribly small or discrete.
I think the Patriot Rage XT that scapermoya linked would be your best compromise between discreteness and speed.
I was in the market for a Chromebook a few months ago, but was holding off to see what came out in Q4. Then I saw the HP Stream and got excited, but it wasn't available in any local stores yet. (I didn't want to just order it online because I like to touch laptops before buying them.)
Then I saw the X205 at Best Buy last weekend, played with it for a bit, and snatched it up hella-fast. My wife has a Lenovo Yoga 2 and (minus the touchscreen) they are quite comparable.
Speakers on the X205 are super loud and sound great for the size of the laptop. Off to Windows is about 12-15sec. I bought one of those nano USB keys in 32GB to increase my storage of files too.
Use a smaller USB drive.
Check this out on AMZN: SanDisk Cruzer Fit CZ33 32GB USB Flash Drive (SDCZ33-032G-B35)
http://amzn.com/B00812F7O8
http://www.amazon.com/Super-Talent-Pico-C-STU16GPCS-Silver/dp/B001PPPIYM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1335781792&sr=8-2
they dont get much smaller than that.
or this:
http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Cruzer-Fit-Flash-Drive/dp/B005FYNSZA/ref=pd_cp_e_3
personally i actually prefer something slightly bigger because these are SO easy to lose.
Just buy a 16 GB flash drive for the esxi partition. I haven't heard any negatives for it yet, then you can use the ssd for more virtuals. I use this:
http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Cruzer-Flash-Drive-SDCZ33-016G-B35/dp/B005FYNSZA/
Yup I have better luck with usb 2.0 drives cruzer fit are my go to
USB sticks are hardly protruding nowadays.
People love creating problems where there's none.
I was going to get the one that you mentioned but I ended up getting this: http://www.amazon.com/HGST-Travelstar-2-5-Inch-Internal-0J22423/dp/B00B4QESVQ
Probably the best bet is filling up a 4TB mybook.
https://www.amazon.com/Book-Desktop-External-Drive-WDBFJK0040HBK-NESN/dp/B00E3RH61W
I don't know where you got 5TB from. Desperation, probably.
Also you'll need a list of shit you want/like.
Example. You could fill the entire drive with anime.
You will run out of space unless you provide specifics.
More specifically, NVME (which uses the M.2 form factor). I'd recommend this, which is cheaper than the Samsung, and just as good):
https://www.amazon.ca/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23
Yes, it's double the Crucial P1's price, but this is much faster and has higher endurance (ADATA's TLC vs Micron's QLC; see here for explanation).
Price is a bit high?? These are 125 brand new on amazon rn. https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=adata+8200&qid=1569843669&s=gateway&sr=8-3
The [peripherals list](https://laptopmeter.com/best-black-friday-2019-deals-for-laptop-backpack-mouse-mouse-pad-and-keyboards/](https://laptopmeter.com/best-black-friday-2019-deals-for-laptop-backpack-mouse-mouse-pad-and-keyboards/) has a few good SSD options and I think the ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1TB would be a good option .
Price History
CamelCamelCamel │ Keepa
_
Price of a Pawn, value of a Queen.
^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fbbvwnq%2Fssd_xpg_sx8200_pro_1tb_tlc_nvme_pcie_30x4_m22280%2Feklvrmp%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**
10% off code 10O55JEG also works with:
EDIT:
Same sale as 13 days ago I believe: https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/aje68a/ssd_sabrent_rocket_1tb_2280m2_30x4_nvme_phison/
Info credit to u/NewMaxx
> Here are a few things to note: The 256GB, 512GB, and 2TB SKUs are also on sale using this code. The bottom three SKUs have the same $/GB while the 2TB has a premium ($404.99). The product page can be found here. Uses the Phison E12 with Toshiba's 64L 3D TLC NAND, like many other drives: Corsair MP510, MyDigitalSSD BPX Pro, Addlink S70, and Seagate BarraCuda/FireCuda 510. The warranty DOES NOT stand up with other drives in this category, it seems. As high warrantied TBW is a selling point of E12 drives, this is a disappointment; I suggest anyone interested in this drive contact Sabrent for clarification. Due to the previous two points, this drive would mostly fit the "Prosumer & Consumer" workstation category: fast sequentials, quad-core controller for heavier workloads and higher IOPS, basically a budget 970 EVO 11 | 22. I don't necessarily think this is a good deal on any particular SKU/capacity, but it's worth posting so the information is out there for those making decisions. There are a lot of these drives now.
Swap SSD with Sabrent Rocket 512GB for only $2 more. More speed and no cables to deal with over 2.5" SSD.
if you have an m.2 slot on your build go for an NVMe drive. the adata drives that are on sale for this deal are SATA, which, although also is the m.2 form factor, are much slower than NVMe and don't take advantage of PCIe lanes that are available in almost all modern motherboards.
for $60 on a 500GB drive, don't get intel 660p, both because of speed and reliability issues. For $60 you can get
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-SB-ROCKET-512-Rocket-Internal-Performance/dp/B07KGMBCKD
which is a great consumer m.2 drive that will be fast enough for 95% of consumer use cases.
It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!
Here is link number 1 - Previous text "SSD"
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^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete
This is about the size of a 1TB flash drive. It's also not $15. More like $750.
Download http://enbdev.com/download_mod_reallife.html v0.290, and then get my preset on http://www.nexusmods.com/reallife/. Put all replacement .ini files into a new loadorder, and place it on a 1tb flash drive. I recommend this one, but you might be tighter and that drive is pretty chunky. Then shove it up your ass and your all set.
Edit: Happy cake day
I apologize, but I'm not seeing the model of the actual case housing everything. I like that it's mobile for a smaller installation. Could you share that info please? 😁
More searching... Is this it? StarTech.com 12U Open Frame Server Rack - Adjustable Depth - 4-Post Data Rack - w/ Casters/Levelers/Cable Management Hooks (4POSTRACK12U) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P1RJ9LS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MkfmDbWHYXAQZ
While almost all rackmount stuff is 19” wide, it’s the depth and weight you have to worry about. The r610 is almost 30” deep with cables and I think the HP isn’t much shorter.
The rack you linked to is designed for network gear and even some audio equipment. What you want is a 4-post rack like this 12u - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P1RJ9LS.
You can use a 2-post rack, but you’ll need to get the static rails instead of the ready rails. Which is your next question, rackmount servers normally need rails to be mounted to the rack and then the server sits down into them and are secured at the front of the rails with the rack ears that are on the rails and the server. The r610 uses these - Dell P223J 1U Ready Rails for PowerEdge R610 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00686MBE8.
There are some smaller racks, just make sure you’re getting one deep enough or adjustable enough to account for your servers and cables.
Now, without all the tracking BS!
That said, unless space is an issue, I wouldn't get one that small... You can get that rack's big bro (25U) for $50 more
If you're really planning for the future, and have the vertical space (beware basements!) you can get the biggest bro (42U) for $300.
Sure, one could argue that "I don't need 25U", but the real bite in the ass comes from when you need that 13th U, and it will suddenly cost you a damn decent chunk of change.
I deluded myself that "Oh, this will be enough space" (got the 24U, actually).... Yeah.... ran out of room... got a 32U (42U won't fit), and almost immediately I filled that up too.... wound up making my 24U into my UPS Battery rack....
My girlfriend bought me this one for Christmas and it's worked great so far. Really sturdy and adjustable to be deep enough for my Dell R710 without an issue.
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Adjustable-Levelers-Management-4POSTRACK12U/dp/B00P1RJ9LS
Edit: There's also a 25U version of this rack for $248 w/ free shipping
Second this. I have the 12U open frame rack and it's extremely study.
Either way I think OP is going to have a hard time meeting 27" unless the casters get removed.
Cheaper than buying the HDD alone.
(ST4000LM024 is the newer drive that's found in the Backup Plus Portable).
I'm not sticking up for the Mac but your argument is an uneducated one. If you'd rather have a 5400rpm 1TB HDD hybrid with a 8GB SSD you're making horrible life decisions. The SSD in the new MBP is a NVME SSD, not sure you know of the tech but this particular Apple over priced crap reads and writes at 3.1GB/s. That is bytes not bits.
It's faster than something like https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-PRO-Internal-MZ-V5P512BW/dp/B01639694M
Matter of fact Macs have had the lead in read write performance on their drives for years and still do. It's something I wish Dell and the like took more serious. You'll probably get about twice the battery life on the Mac compared to that Inspiron as well. Form factor and weight are no where near the same. Now a comparable build would be the Dell XPS 15. People need to understand hardware more thoroughly before speaking as if their experts.
Does your desktop's motherboard support M.2? If so, PCIe NVMe? https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-PRO-Internal-MZ-V5P512BW/dp/B01639694M/
It is only ~$100 more than an 850 Pro, but has 5x sequential read speeds. Make sure you read up on your motherboard and OS before buying. I've read reviews from people with motherboards that can't boot off of it, etc.
Otherwise, just an 850 Pro/EVO is fine. For mechanical storage, I'm currently buying 8TB WD externals (single drive, not dual!) for $250 and shucking them. Has worked out fairly well.
I've had one of these in my car 24/7 in South Texas heat for 2 years no problems.
Samsung 128GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive Fit (MUF-128BB/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017DH3O5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eUgMBbV6750DS
It does. Stay clear of it. There are alternatives. I prefer the samsung mini drive myself, but there are other choices (leef, etc).
The sandisk ultra fit pulls a slightly higher voltage than the others, hence its heat problems. Sandisk redesigned it (and I'm not sure if I have any of the newer batch), but there still seems to be some concern amongst owners, judging by reviews.
So why risk it? Sandisk makes great regular-sized usb sticks, but steer clear of their mini version.
Pelican SD Case for on-set.
A high quality SSD is probably a better idea for portable editing. Flash drives are usually pretty cheaply made (read up on SLC, MLC, and TLC flash storage). I personally have a laptop that has two HDD ports, and one has a 1TB Sandisk Extreme Pro on it for a portable work drive.
For NAS, I love my Synology DS1815+ with 8 x 4TB WD RED drives installed.
When I drive home from a job, a lot of times the footage I'm transporting is worth more than my mortgage to my client. It's important to do everything and anything to protect it.
This is also the same price from Amazon, if you don't like buying things from Newegg.
https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000DM008/dp/B01IEKG4NE
negative, it's 7200rpm. https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000DM008/dp/B01IEKG4NE
Amazon is offering the Ledger Nano S as a lightning deal for $69.99 if anyone is interested.
2.5” is the same price.
WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm - WDS100T2B0A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GMq3BbK1ZX6CD
I use this drive made by Samsung. It gets warm during use, but not hot to the degree I've heard about with the Sandisk drive.
Is £69 a good price for a 500GB SSD? this is one part that I've never looked into.
Yeah I just searched 500GB SSD on amazon and found another for £63 and a 480GB SSD for £55, this price doesn't seem special, is there something I'm missing?
You can get cheaper SSD via AMAZON. HEll you can get a 500 GB
Sandisk 480GB £109
Kingspec 512 £99 - Just as fast as the samsung
Kingspun do 380GB & 256GB
16GB of RAM is the Minimum
If your Motherboard can use an NVME SDD then i can recommend the Samsung evo 960
You mean like this?
Can also be found on Amazon.ca.
https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-ST3000DM008-BarraCuda-Cache-Internal/dp/B01IEKG4NE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482742430&sr=8-1&keywords=ST3000DM008#customerReviews
Same price here on amazon with free on day shipping
here is a link to the recent reviews (as recent as days and weeks ago) of it on amazon. Some say theirs died after a month of use, others mention a noise issue. https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000DM008/product-reviews/B01IEKG4NE/ref=cm_cr_getr_d_paging_btm_2?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=avp_only_reviews&sortBy=recent&pageNumber=2
Sweet, glad I waited to buy, cheaper than Amazon
Can I shuck this. $169. has been the price on amazon for a while.
First things first- a Solid State Drive(From now on referred to as SSD) is a storage device with relatively high speeds and lower potential storage capacity for the price, compared to a Hard Disc Drive(Now on referred to as HDD).
You’re generally not going to need an SSD for most games, as the speed of storage isn’t really dependant on your storage. Most data used by programs is loaded into RAM, which is much faster. The only benefits are cases where you may have a game with long loading times because there’s a lot of content to load into the RAM. This is fine though, sometimes it’s nice to have those short loading times for multiplayer games. In actuality, it’s best to have an SSD for operating system storage, so instead of a computer taking a few minutes to start up, it only takes a few seconds.
There are two product types of SSD you can purchase, and two form factors (sizes) you can purchase. If you can update with which case and motherboard you have(and also any other storage that’s coming with the computer, I could have a better idea of what you have to work with, however you’re probably looking for something along the lines of SATA, 2.5” and around 500gb. This is a good option if you have one(or more) HDDs to store pictures, videos, documents, etc.
If you don’t have other storage devices, a 1tb equivalent would be preferable. Alternatively, you could purchase the 500gb SSD and some HDDs to back it up. Or even go a bit further and only purchase a 250gb SSD to hold ONLY your OS and a couple other things.
In terms of price, keep in mind that price for digital storage(SSD) has dropped significantly in the last year, and is forecasted to drop another 10% this year possibly.
TL;DR: Search “500gb SATA 2.5 SSD” online and buy anything from Samsung, Western Digital, Crucial or ADATA.
Hope this helps!
WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB PC SSD - SATA... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBQMCX?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
They're all over Amazon.
Samsung 860 EVO 1TB - $168
Crucial MX500 1TB - $160
WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB - $150
SanDisk 1TB Ultra - $160
Note: we use affiliate links, it doesn't add anything to your price but it does mean that if you buy these parts through the links below, it helps us out!
**
So about as close as I can get to that sort of price, giving you more performance for your money (just by building yourself) is as follows:
Rather than a 6-core, 6-thread CPU in the your above build, we've gone instead for a 8-core, 16-thread CPU. This will give you far more performance for productivity and is one of the main keys with Adobe. The more CPU performance you can throw at it the better, so this is a bit of a no-brainer. AMD also provide a really good quality cooler in the box, so no need to get an extra one.
So we're very specifically jumping up here again to a lot more RAM (32GB) and it's a lot faster too. Again, this is a must with Adobe as when it renders video it'll dump the files through the RAM, so the more you have the better. Plus having this much helps with caching in general as well as overall multitasking performance.
Pretty much comes singing and dancing. However, when you purchase, make sure this has the recent BIOS update for the newer CPU you're buying. Newegg support are usually good for confirming this before your purchase just through their chat service, so if you ask them if this item of stock has the update to use the above linked CPU, they'll confirm that for you. (99% of new stock out there has had updated BIOS already now, so it's not really an issue, yet it's always worth double checking).
This part we can leave the same really. Adobe isn't super GPU intensive, preferring CPU over anything else, so this is powerful enough for anything your camera can chuck out. If you ever feel like doing a LOT more color grading, 3D animation work down the line, then this is the part you'd need to look at upgrading to something a bit more powerful. Yet until then, this is perfectly fine.
A large traditional storage as believe you me, you'll end up using it once you've finished with projects. Only use this for storage of files after you're done with them as well as installing your software onto this. This drive gives you double what you had in the above build alone, so it's more to fill up ;)
This is your "work" drive. So when you're working on video, store it on this. When you're saving your projects, save it on this. When you're doing the initial render (before storing it) do it onto this. This has a 1800MB/s read and write speed, so while budget is a bit of an issue we're going with a larger drive so you can use it for a lot of purposes. You'll eventually find your bigger upgrade here is having multiple M.2 drives rather than just 1, so you can run them in RAID for even better performance and data security but as that'd normally be in a much bigger build than the budget, this is plenty for now and gives far more fast storage than the original build.
An improved power supply to provide more overheads and power protection against things like surges and sudden power loss. Also fully modular, so it's again really easy to build with.
I'm more than a little impartial with this case as my current gaming build is in this but it's such a nice sleek looking case for everything.
Last piece of the puzzle. This just comes on USB so once you've built the PC, you just plug this into one of the USB ports on the front of the case and your system will go through the installation for you. Nice and simple :)
Total Price: $1262.92
That's about as good as I can do at first glance. The thing about PC building yourself is that it's very customization friendly! So although I've given this build, you could probably post in other places and get slightly different answers. Main thing is the CPU, RAM and giving you enough storage.
They're $123 on amazon right now. Just fyi. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K1J3C23/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jGe1DbCY8XDJB
I am using a Mid 2015 MBP, currently have 16GB of RAM in it (max it supports) and I just upgraded the SSD to a 1TB drive using the following two items :
ADATA XPG SX8200 SSD 1TB
SinTech nVME SSD adapter
I did buy this to put the current SSD in and to transfer data from.
NVME SSD Enclosure
​
About $185 total out the door.
The sx8200 pro is still $220 no tax
Or
WD Black 1TB for $199.99 from Canada Computers
This is a way better option: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-SB-ROCKET-512-Rocket-Internal-Performance/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sabrent+rocket+512&qid=1569342867&s=electronics&sr=1-3
Based on Toshiba’s BiCS 3D TLC NAND Flash memory, its read speeds performance speeds can reach up to 3450 MB/s. 512GB for $59
Looks good. IF you had not already ordered the video card, I would have recommended getting an 8gb version instead but if you got a good price its ok. Your motherboard has an M.2 slot, so I would get an M.2 drive like this Sabrent Rocket for the same price instead.
Main differences are controller and memory type. Memory types are SLC, MLC, TLC, and QLC, from most expensive to least expensive. This video explains it pretty decently, but it doesn't mention QLC. It's the same principle, just Quad-level, so one more than TLC. Slightly less reliable but a lot cheaper. If you're doing a budget build it's cheaper and plenty decent for most people, so something like the Intel 660p is a great deal.
​
If you want something with slightly better performance, longevity, and potential reliability for about the same price, the Sabrent Rocket is fantastic in terms of price/performance. Highly recommend it for most builds. Same controller and memory chips as the Corsair MP510, but a lot cheaper.
So do you carry a linux pc with you? If yes you can just create a partition and boot from that when you need to. If you absolutely need to boot from a usb you could get a drive like this and leave it plugged in all the time because it sits almost flush with the usb port. If you are set on EDCing a usb drive get something that is damage resistent with a cap like a Corsair Voyager to keep put lint and moisture from damp clothing.
Get this, you'll be fine - http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Cruzer-Flash-Drive-SDCZ33-032G-B35/dp/B00812F7O8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1375296323&sr=8-7&keywords=flash+drive
[Link for flashdrive] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00812F7O8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)
That's not actually an SSD, it's a SSD/HDD hybrid. These types of drives have negligible benefits for load time over a 7200rpm HDD and provide no benefit in terms in actual game performance.
You'd be better off purchasing a cheaper 1TB 7200rpm HDD like this one.
If you aren't bother about saving an extra second or two on load time you could pick up a 5400 rpm drive even cheaper (this is the speed of the default PS4 HDD).
I use this combo, very happy with it. I like the fact that it doesn't require an external power source therefore turns off when the xbox turns off and runs at 7200 RPM.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ID3FCRC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4QESVQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Same deal on Amazon.ca
I don't want to do the math to find out how much I've spent on SSDs, but it's WORTH IT.
But as for the 840 Pro jatorres suggests... considering the age of the machine it is going into, I'd look for a cheaper SSD that's still highly rated, like the Crucial M500 128GB or 240GB. link
High capacity thumb drives for really cheap are usually frauds. The thumb drive will report itself as 1TB to your computer or device, but will only actually have a much smaller storage size. Once the actual storage space runs out, you will run into huge problems with data corruption as your device tries to write to storage that just isn't there.
A 1TB hard drive (like the passport you mentioned) will be much cheaper than a legit 1TB thumb drive, and will probably be faster too.
EDIT: There are legit high capacity thumb drives, but they are very expensive. For instance, the 1TB kingston retails for over $1000.
Here's an actual 1TB flash drive. A lot more than $14.
http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-DataTraveler-Predator-1TB-DTHXP30/dp/B00E65QM8O/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1453996305&sr=1-3&keywords=1tb+flash+drive
Amazon
Rocky
Aliens
Bluetooth Headphones
Game of Thrones
Gears of War 4 Collector's Edition
Seven Samurai
Big Trouble In Little China Board Game
VR Headset
Samurai Champloo
Dredd or Dredd
Dead Rising 4
2TB Portable External Hard Drive
Aliens: The Set Photography
The Way of Kings
The Eye of the World
Army Of Darkness
Ash
RoboCop: Trilogy Collection
Cold Steel Tanto Pocket Knife
Return it and get THIS. No reason to go through all that trouble.
>I cannot justify 300€+
The prices on StarTech's website are always a lot higher than elsewhere.
Amazon's UK website has the rack for the equivalent of €215 (£189): https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00P1RJ9LS
On Amazon.es it's €229.87 and on Amazon.de it's €232.57.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00P1RJ9LS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492786812&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=server+rack&psc=1
He just put in a blank text object so the link was there, just...unusable.
You might want to check out the ODROID-HC1.
I have a Seagate 4TB 2.5" in mine, and it is fantastic for backups.
It can handle being a seedbox and Plex Server. Just don't do too much transcoding from it. (It got about 2FPS when transcoding 1080P H.264 -> H.265 in ffmpeg)
Hardware accelerated NIC is really nice.
One thing many people are not aware of, is that backup external drives are not meant to be on and connected 24/7 - well most of them. Quite often the controller fails after a period of time.
Not to say that is what is happening here, but what you described is symptomatic of such a failure. You could always try to get the drive into another case and you may be able to recover from there (unlikely but possible).
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STEB3000100/dp/B00TKFEEJ4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1499901663&sr=8-4&keywords=external+desktop+drive is made to work constantly, while something like that: https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Backup-Portable-External-STDR4000100/dp/B00ZTRXFBA/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1499901746&sr=8-14&keywords=external+backup+drive may have a shortened life if always on.
Look into shucking a seagate 2.5" drive. You should be able to get 4tb new for your 100 bucks.
Drive here: https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Portable-External-Storage-STDR4000100/dp/B00ZTRXFBA/ref=as_li_bk_tl/?tag=servecom-20&linkId=44d43abb0c2382a66295517dfbde2add&linkCode=ktl
more info: https://www.servethehome.com/seagate-4tb-2-5-sata-hdd-124-get-ready-density/
No. That M.2 drive is SATA. If you wanted a faster one, you would need to get an NVMe PCIe M.2 drive, like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-PRO-Internal-MZ-V5P512BW/dp/B01639694M
That being said, unless you're doing a lot of massive file transfers you'll never notice a difference. Like for gaming, there is really no advantage to having a PCIe NVMe M.2 SSD over a SATA SSD.
For those speeds the cost is not too bad really, sauce
Not him, but any 2.5in SATA drive should work. Here's some examples:
SanDisk SSD PLUS 1TB Internal SSD - $100
WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB Internal PC SSD - $110
Crucial MX500 1TB 3D NAND SATA 2.5 Inch Internal SSD - $108
Now if you wanted something with 2TB of storage, it's gonna cost you a lot more. See here:
Samsung 860 QVO 2TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD - $227
WD Blue 3D NAND 2TB Internal PC SSD - $225
SanDisk Ultra 3D NAND 2TB Internal SSD - $210
WD Blue 3D NAND 500GB PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm - WDS500G2B0A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Wp8xDbGTP4B7C
Have you checked Amazon? They usually have these SSDs along the same price tag. I’ve seen them 85-100$ USD. There’s a Western Digital version of that SSD for about 88$ USD. There’s also a Crucial version of that SSD for about 88$ USD on Amazon. Not sure if it’s more expensive in AUS on Amazon. Hope I helped.
Edit: I’ll link you the items I’m talking about
This is the WD model
WD Blue 3D NAND 500GB PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s 2.5"/7mm Solid State Drive - WDS500G2B0A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_I9xPBb4VDW1BD
I personally own the WD one and it’s been pretty good so far.
Crucial MX500 500GB 3D NAND SATA 2.5 Inch Internal SSD - CT500MX500SSD1(Z) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0784SLQM6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N.xPBb0HSAM8T
My friend owns the Crucial model and has told me good things about it.
Here is the Samsung model you’re looking for
Samsung 860 Evo 500GB 2.5 inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E500B/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AbyPBbF2HH21P
The WD and Crucial models read and write faster than the Samsung model according to the info on Amazon. And they’re cheaper. WD also has a M.2 2280 version of the SSD which is easier to install IMO and it’s the same price.
For far more knowledge I'll direct you to /r/buildapc. There's a lot of factors that go into it. But generally the biggest thing to consider is going to be method of interface with your mother board. I say this because there's basically 3 and each comes at a different price point:
Less expensive than PCIe. High end ones use PCIe. Lower end ones use SATA3. It's much smaller and is what most decent laptops would use these days. Honestly I'm hoping for PCIe M.2 in next gen consoles. Example
Also worth noting that IIRC the PS4 Pro uses SATA3 but the OG PS4 uses SATA2. Mechanical hard drives aren't going to be bottlenecked by SATA2, but SSDs would very quickly.
Or 500GB for a few pennies more...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B073SBZ8YH/
Spending $95 on a tiny ssd + hdd makes little sense at todays prices.
$115, Wd Blue 3d 1tb:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/
It's what I have as a good balance if cost/speed/size/reliability. No reason to be stuck with 2nd laggy hdd at 1tb.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=mx500&qid=1574969509&sr=8-8
​
This is better, its TLC, and it has a DRAM cache too. Much better than the QVO
https://smile.amazon.de/Blue-interne-Festplatte-Lese-Schreibgeschwindigkeit/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=sr_1_5?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=3RAYJBX3XR6XJ&keywords=500gb+ssd&qid=1562963585&s=gateway&sprefix=500+gb+%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-5
Solid State Drive, it is many times faster than your hdd, (Hard Disk Drive), and it WILL make your computer feel many times faster.
Edit: Your motherboard doesn't have a M.2 slot, so you will have to get a Sata SSD (Such as the WD Blue or the Samsung 860 Evo)
Edit 2: You could get a M.2 to PCIe adapter and a decent NVMe SSD (Such as the Intel 660p), this is by far the best option.
Your budget is going to determine which SSDs we can recommend. Asking which is the "best" is a very broad question.
​
Best? or like would be a fine upgrade for your use case? You see. A lot of this is going to depend on
​
It is compatible as far as I can see. Personally, I use this one https://www.amazon.in/500GB-2-5-inch-Internal-Solid-WDS500G2B0A/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=pd_sbs_147_2/261-0154709-7518766?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B073SBZ8YH&pd_rd_r=797c12fb-5d76-4c0f-89b3-d3fee504cbb7&pd_rd_w=CQ1yC&pd_rd_wg=7DSXf&pf_rd_p=87667aae-831c-4952-ab47-0ae2a4d747da&pf_rd_r=TYAF4HG35F8EJ9TSJ16E&psc=1&refRID=TYAF4HG35F8EJ9TSJ16E
There's no difference in price between a SATA SSD and a non-NVME M.2 SSD. An NVME M.2 SSD is a different story though.
Edit: They edited their comment to include nvme after I replied
I will always prefer Western Digital as I have never had any of their drives fail.
still crazy affordable
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-500GB-SSD-WDS500G2B0A/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1550017655&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=500gb+ssd&dpPl=1&dpID=41ZbeXqUbrL&ref=plSrch
Mods delete if not aloud. I ordered a WD 500GB SSD from Amazon.ca and to my pleasant surprise received a 1TB. Amazon slapped the wrong UPC on the 1TBs as seen in the photo. Try ordering one and if it’s a 500GB just return it.
Edit: fixed link.
I love the build, but there's one thing I'd definitely change and one thing you might want to look into changing:
The Hyper 212 Evo is a decent cooler, but I have some serious reservations that it can keep up with an HEDT processor, especially a 12-core. Nearly any AIO water cooler will do a better job, but this is the one I use on my 9900K.
The "maybe" change is much more straightforward: For the price, your 860 Evo is a good SSD, but you could have much faster storage for the same price by going with something like a 660p NVMe. This would also help offset some of the change in price to get an AIO water cooler.
Other than that, this is an excellent build! It's basically the HEDT version of my 9900K/Z390 Taichi Ultimate/RTX 2080 Ti build called KAIOKENxTEN, which I use for gaming and video editing. You won't be disappointed.
Yes, I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017DH3O5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7Is8Ab15A940W
And this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073GZBT36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4Js8AbZQ6SWJ2
To store games. Only game that gave me problems was Xcom. It installed on my USB but not the external ssd.
You don't have to claim DOA, just say you're not satisfied or its no longer needed. Amazon's return policy is quite lenient. Just, try to make sure the seller is Amazon, LLC and not a third party.
to OP... this flash drive isn't that big and allows you to save on some headaches.
I saw this yesterday but im not sure about the quality
You can also buy the ADATA SU800 512GB 3D-NAND on Amazon for $136.69+tax (old promo) but "1 to 2 months" shipping too: https://www.amazon.com/ADATA-SU800-512GB-3D-NAND-ASU800SS-512GT-C/dp/B01K8A29CS/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1501023092&sr=1-9&keywords=ssd&refinements=p_n_feature_three_browse-bin%3A14027459011
The Sandisk Ultra II 480gb for 137.99 (third party seller): https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01F9G46Q8/ref=sr_1_4_olp?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1501023092&sr=1-4&keywords=ssd
I need a SSD but im still not sure if im going to buy a 500gb or 250gb +hdd
Amazon is having a sale too in the US!
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-PLUS-Solid-State-Drive/dp/B01F9G46Q8
~$100 Off
A PS4 Pro has a SATA 3 connection (I still chose to utilize my SSD as external) and I definitely see more than a 10% decrease in load times. Final Fantasy 15 load times are about half what they were before.
Here's what I went with.
SanDisk SSD PLUS 480GB Solid State Drive (SDSSDA-480G-G26) [Newest Version] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F9G46Q8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_6wkdmjmmpCaHK
replace the case with one which can take radiators such as this, get a couple of sticks of 8gb ddr3 ram like these get a good aio cooler like this and get an ssd for boot drive like this all of these examples come to $469.93 and out of those a 120gb ssd would still cause a big speed increase and even a decent air cooler would improve the temps situtation.
Hope this helps
I did something similar recently:
$318 plus tax - I'm running nodes for half a dozen cryptocurrencies on it.
Better value than the SanDisk SSD PLUS 480g?
I need a new HDD for putting my movies, rendered videos, and some single player games. Should I get this or get a 7200RPM 3TB for $90 This One?
Please open your case. Don't be lazy.
Easy-to-follow instructions:
Purchase an $83 Seagate BarraCuda 3TB (Get the $60 2TB if you think 3TB is too much or too expensive; also the 4TB BarraCuda is currently only $12 more than the 3TB).
Get a SATA cable if you don't already have one. Plug into a SATA port on your mobo.
Connect SATA PSU cable and SATA cable to HDD, which should be in your PC. Turn on PC.
Format the HDD as GPT using the built-in Disk Management software (also known as "Create and format hard disk partitions"). Just go to the search bar in Windows and type it in.
Right-click the empty hard drive in the Disk Management and select "New Simple Volume".
Follow the directions afterwards.
Ta-dah! You have a new 3TB HDD to play around with.
Consider getting an SSD to speed up your overall system.
Seagate BarraCuda 3TB 3.5-Inch SATA 6 Gb/s Internal Hard Drive (ST3000DM008) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IEKG4NE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_u1c4BbJJWG5EV
I have been running this drive 24/7 since January , to run games off of and run my plex server .
The 3TB seagate barracuda costs almost the same as the 2TB.
https://smile.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000DM008/dp/B01IEKG4NE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482991255&sr=8-1&keywords=seagate%2Bbarracuda%2B3tb&th=1
Also, 64GB RAM is ridiculously overkill unless it's a server. Dropping down to 32GB won't make a difference.
Saw this posted on RFD, daily promo for August 17th, shipping is $9 but seems like there might be stock in stores.
Pcpartpicker: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/j28H99/seagate-barracuda-3tb-35-7200rpm-internal-hard-drive-st3000dm008?history_days=120
Seems like one of the lowest prices for this drive, DirectCanada had it at this price a day ago for a brief period as well, but I guess no one noticed.
CanadaComputers selling it on Amazon.ca for same price as well but with nearly $12 shipping: https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000DM008/dp/B01IEKG4NE
Pricematch at BestBuy possible (116.98/Online Only) ? http://www.bestbuy.ca/en-ca/product/seagate-seagate-barracuda-3tb-3-5-7200rpm-sata-3-0-desktop-internal-hard-drive-st3000dm008-st3000dm008/10587604.aspx?
I keep one of these in my bug out bag, along with a few hundred in small bills and some gold and silver bullion.
https://www.amazon.com/Ledger-Nano-Cryptocurrency-Hardware-Wallet/dp/B01J66NF46/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1518243369&sr=1-3&keywords=ledger+nano+s
Https://www.amazon.ca/Ledger-Nano-Cryptocurrency-Hardware-Wallet/dp/B01J66NF46/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=bitcoin&qid=1549748745&s=gateway&sr=8-2. This is good advice as well - Https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zNVDIz6Snw!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01J66NF46/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new
I don’t have an easy answer for you. I have been looking for an 8TB drive for some time now myself, and have spent far too much time comparing options. I would love to hear everyone’s opinion!
I also haven’t looked that much at encryption, hopefully someone here knows more about that part.
Seagate Expansion STEB8000100
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HAPGEIE/ - $150
Lacie Porsche Design USB-C STFE8000401
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075VP1PJX - $220
HDD (probably, based on forum reports): Seagate Archive HDD ST8000AS0002 (SMR)
Pros:
Cons:
Seagate Game Drive Desktop 8TB STGG8000400 – ($240)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07173WR4B - £165 (couldn’t find on Amazon.com)
HDD (probably): Seagate Barracuda (non-pro) ST8000DM004 (SMR)
Pros:
Cons:
Seagate Backup Plus Hub STEL8000100
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HD6ZLQ6 - $155
Seagate Backup Plus Hub STEL8000200
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01IAD5ZC6 - £158
(see https://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/7875/seagate-backup-plus-hub-8tb-external-drive-review/index.html, https://www.reddit.com/r/DataHoarder/comments/7fbkh3/the_seagate_backup_plus_8tb_no_longer_have_the/)
Internal 3.5” + USB Enclosure - $300
HDD (e.g.): Seagate Barracuda Pro ST8000DM0004 (PMR Helium)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07211QYRC - $280
or HGST Ultrastar He8 HUH728080ALE600 (PMR Helium)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q1IZJD8 - $240
Enclosure (e.g.): Ugreen 3.5” Hard Drive Enclosure
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076WQHK2G - $20
Pros:
Cons:
WD Easystore
Also HDD lottery.
(see https://www.reddit.com/r/DataHoarder/comments/7fx0i0/wd_easystore_8tb_compendium/)
WD My Book
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LQQHLGC - $170
HDD: Lottery.
Reports vary all over the place. Very old reports say HGST Enterprise Helium (Early 2016), Older reports (Mid 2016) say WD Red WD80EZZX (Good), newer reports (2017) say it’s a lower-performance white-label drive, some call it a WD Blue (?).
(see https://www.pcper.com/reviews/Storage/HGST-Enterprise-He8-HDD-Found-Early-Retail-8TB-WD-My-Book, http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/776633-8TB-WDBFJK0080HBK-NESN-vs-WDBBGB0080HBK-NESN, https://tinkertry.com/liberate-western-digital-8tb-from-external-drive-enclosure-to-save-big)
Neutral:
Pros:
Cons:
This was quickly put together. Comments and suggestions welcome! :-)
8 TB seagates externals are on sale at Amazon for 150 Just shuck the drive and you're good to go :P or keep it external.
Or get a mybook for 170, shuck it and keep the enclosure and you're ok for warranty. Just put the drive back into it before you ship it back and say you had to take it out for data recovery.
I use this 8TB
https://www.amazon.com/Book-Desktop-External-Drive-WDBBGB0080HBK-NESN/dp/B01LQQHLGC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1542908638&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=wd+8tb
SSD prices continue to drop... Black Friday could be interesting.
Team Group should be reputable but you may also want to consider the WD Blue for $179.99. You can get it on Amazon as well (Prime Only).
https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820250088https://www.amazon.ca/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX
Edit: Just noticed the 480GB version of the Team Group SSD is $77.99:
https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16820331049
I'd say:
CPU - Ryzen 5 2600 for $129.30 on Amazon
RAM - Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory for $65.99 on Amazon
GPU - Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1660 Ti 6 GB WINDFORCE OC for $279.99 on Amazon
Case - NZXT H500 ATX Mid Tower for $69.99 on Amazon
PSU - Corsair CXM 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular for $57.96 on Amazon
Monitor - Sceptre C248B-144RN 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz for $154.99 on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/Sceptre-Edge-Less-FreeSync-DisplayPort-C248B-144RN/dp/B07MTMCNLX/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2N0O44FUFH3W9&keywords=sceptre+monitor&qid=1568701318&s=electronics&sprefix=sceptre+moni%2Celectronics%2C190&sr=1-2
Total = $758.22
Those things are what I would recommend whole-heartedly, but the Storage and MoBo depends on you:
Storage:
- HP EX900 500 GB for $52.99 on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B2ZVJ5F/?tag=pcpapi-20
- Intel 660p Series 1.02 TB for $94.99 on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GCL6BR4/?tag=pcpapi-20
Motherboard
- If no overclock - ASRock B450M/AC (It has WiFi) for $74.99 on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SY8CMTX/?tag=pcpapi-20
- If yes overclock - Asus ROG STRIX B450-F GAMING for $119.99 on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FKTZC4M/?tag=pcpapi-20
​
Cheapest build I'd recommend is $758.22 + $52.99 + $74.99 = $886.20 but you have the option for a bit of extra storage and/or performance if you'd like.
How does something like the Intell 660p compare to this or the Silicon Power one? Seems like Intel would be fine for casual use, what is the usecase for these new brand ones?
Intel Solid State Drive (SSD), 660P Series, 1 TB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GCL6BR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BnjQDbN0NTN7H
I’d save a bit of money and go with a b450 board unless you absolutely need the pcie 4.0. this MSI tomahawk is good or this Gaming pro Carbon if you want wifi built in. The other things I’d swap is your ssd for an intel 660p. It’s cheaper and faster.
As for a cooler, with the black theme you’ve got going a dark rock pro 4 would look pretty sweet in there, just check compatibility with your memory for clearance.
For you or anyone wondering here is the build list, I used storage and PSU from old build. Also bought an NVME M.2 SSD 1tb for 100$.
Build List
SSD
For less money, this Intel 660p is over twice as fast with the same storage space.
This build is not very tight in terms of getting your moneys worth, but it's not necessarily bad, just that I think you could do more with it. I would switch out the evo 970 with an ADATA XPG 8200: link
After that I would consider downgrading the motherboard a bit since 275 for a MOBO is ludicrous unless you're REALLY into overclocking. Typically the way I look at MOBO's currently is if they have Intel Lan over realtek, if they have built in wifi, and if they have 4 RAM DIMM slots, and they have good VRM heatsink they are a top end board, so anything after that is probably a waste.
Next up, the PSU is a waste of money, you don't need 850 watts. If you're looking for a gold rated PSU you should be able to find one for like 70-80 bucks if you keep an eye pealed for sales. If you're looking for a high-end 650 watt PSU I'd recommend the Seasonic Focus+ Platinum.
Lastly, that case is really unnecessarily expensive for seemingly no reason. I know RGB is big right now, but there are way more affordable RGB options that will be just as good. I'd recommend the coolermaster H500P or H500M, the thermaltake h500i, or the fractal design S2.
Like I said this isn't a bad build, but there's a lot of 'fat' that could be trimmed to either save money or make an upgrade to a 2080 ti.
A bit late to this thread, but here's a 1tb, one of the highest rated on the market competitive with Samsung's drives, for $130 after coupon. 3500/3000 speeds and maintains them. I would have linked the Sabrent Rocket, but those run hot I've heard.
There are many other cheaper alternatives with same performance 40% off the Samsung 970 EVO price point:
addlink S70 1TB:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K7LRB2T?ref=myi_title_dp
adata Sx8000 1TB
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K1J3C23/
I'm quite happy with the two of these that I have in my PC now...
I bought mine two weeks ago, with the i7 and 16G of ram, if you get the 8G single stick you can upgrade later on. I upgraded my storage myself with an ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro which are significantly cheaper than Samsung EVO’s counterparts, in my case I wanted a 1TB nvme drive and the XPG was $163 compared to the +$335 upgrade cost of the similar Samsung nvme while also performing just as well or very close to Samsung nvmes in real world benchmarks so they are a good choice to consider if you’re trying to save a couple hundred bucks. Also, when i upgraded my storage on my own, not only did I save $172 but also got to keep the stock 240G ssd so that was a cool bonus.
Can't you get new ones for these prices?
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-SB-ROCKET-512-Rocket-Internal-Performance/dp/B07KGMBCKD/?pldnSite=1
Thats a stupidly overpriced SSD. $70 for 250GB! What is this? 2013?
Here:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KGMBCKD/?tag=pcpapi-20&pldnSite=1
Thats a fantastic SSD using the extremely popular Phison E12 reference design. Its very fast and reliable.
3600X is just 3600 overclocked, which you can do yourself, so not really worth it. I would look into Sabrent Rocket for your NVME (https://www.amazon.fr/Sabrent-interne-Rocket-performance-SB-ROCKET-512/dp/B07KGMBCKD/)
The HDD is perhaps the best bang for the buck HDD out there in the market. However, the SSD seems a little expensive for what it is. Seagate isn't the best company for SSDs. You can find a Samsung 970 Evo 500GB for $10 less and Samsung currently makes the best SSDs in the market. Other options include the Western Digital Black SN750 which you could easily find for the same price as the 970 Evo. If you want a cheaper alternative without sacrificing day-to-day performance, I would recommend the Intel 660p. It's a QLC SSD where there are 4 bits stored in each cell instead of TLC where there are 3 bits stored in each cell. This gives you lower performance but massively cheaper compared to TLC drives. Both the SN750 and 970 Evo are TLC drives therefore are more expensive than the 660p. This drop in performance is not noticeable at all if all you do is gaming, web browsing and the usual stuffs consumers use their laptops for. The Sabrent Rocket is also a great budget option for an NVMe drive. It's a TLC drive which you could find for as low as $70 for the 512 GB model.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-500GB-MZ-V7E500BW/dp/B07BN4NJ2J/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=samsung+970+evo+500gb&qid=1574009611&sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-SN750-500GB-Internal-Gaming/dp/B07MH2P5ZD/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=western+digital+black+sn750+500gb&qid=1574009748&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-660p-Solid-State-Drive/dp/B07GCCPD28/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=intel+660p+500gb&qid=1574009787&sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-SB-ROCKET-512-Rocket-Internal-Performance/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=adata+nvme+ssd&qid=1574010159&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFDU04zNEdHNU5WV0QmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA2MzcxODAxV0hSOEdRNFNIRVJaJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA5NDE1NzkzSFdYUDRJVDI4NEZUJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E3RH61W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1449281124&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=wd+4tb+external+hard+drive&dpPl=1&dpID=31aGPVAPJmL&ref=plSrch
This is what I bought a year ago. Works great. Most bang for your buck.
To expand on that:
2TB portable external HDD: $70
1TB portable external SSD: $310 - $397
1TB USB Flash Drive: $700? - $2.5k
The Amazon result was the only I could find that was selling a 1TB flash drive (ebay has them too, but ebay also has a lot of fakes); which I believe had a starting price of 700 dollars when it was first released. But given that nobody seems to sell them anymore, it seems this Amazon retailer decided to jack up the price.
There's a usb stick for every game if you've got the money to burn
Well i'm not sure what you mean by best.
SSD? Hybrid? Bigger size?
I will assume that you're looking for a bigger hard drive so here's a link on how to install a 2TB hard drive: http://www.reddit.com/r/PS4/comments/2cc3oj/created_a_beginningtoend_guide_on_how_to_install/
In that thread there is also the link to buy it:http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FRHTTIA/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_gO62tb16RZ1S4
This portable drive goes on sale sometimes and works fine with PS4. You also get a free enclosure for your 500gb drive you remove from the PS4 and can use that as the portable drive after you swap them.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FRHTTIA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yeah. You can either remove it from the case and use this one or do it via USB when 4.5 is ready.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FRHTTIA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487128257&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=2tb+external+hard+drive&dpPl=1&dpID=41Vg822qL1L&ref=plSrch
so whats the difference between this one and the one posted a few months back? im sure theyre both the same hard drive, just curious if theyre not
Do this. Then you put the 500gb into the enclosure and you have a 2tb ps4 and a 500gb external. This is also cheaper than buying an internal hdd like the other guy linked. Here's a link to the one you should get. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FRHTTIA
My rack depth is 30.25" using the Dell Rapid Rails. I could probably make it ~1-2" smaller but that would put the back of the servers basically touching the rear posts. I have a 25U StarTech, you should take a look at the 12U rack they make.
That rack you linked too at amazon is only 17 inches deep... the dell r710 has a mounting depth of about 30" if I remember correctly... so it wouldn't really fit in that rack, in fact, more than half of it would be out of the rack! A rack like that is more well suited for smaller things like switches and the like.
a rack that would work that's in that price range is something like this although it's completely open.
Also, I don't know what's so appealing about the server you posted on ebay, but you can find some that you'll find just as useful for much much
less money I don't know where you're located (other than you're in canada based on your links) but you might be able to find a used rack for much less.
now to answer your question more directly
yeah, you get a rack. then you have rails that connect to the rack and the server, that's what lets you pull servers in and out (usually) like these guys which are rails for an r710
Your rack will not come with rails. each server typically will use different rails (there are universal ones though, but they aren't as nice) sometimes your server will come with rails however! basically, the rails will clip in, or screw into the rack, then it the server will sit on, clip on, or screw onto the rails. you can see here, the rails holding up these servers and allowing you to nicely slide the servers in and out of the rack for serving or whatever
I picked up one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Adjustable-Levelers-Management-4POSTRACK12U/dp/B00P1RJ9LS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1463290503&sr=8-6&keywords=12u+startech
12u on wheels; can vary how long it is. Has square holes and adapters.
Not OP, but it's a 12U Startech 4 post rack, you can see the brand name on almost every photo. ;)
The UPS is an APC SMT1500RM2U, and the rack is a StarTech 12U Open Frame. Here's a link to the rack: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P1RJ9LS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You do understand that server is going to be hair dryer loud, right?
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Adjustable-Levelers-Management-4POSTRACK12U/dp/B00P1RJ9LS
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019SXSH2C
This is the rack I use currently for my lab.
It's light, it's compact, it's 4 post, and it has wheels!!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P1RJ9LS/ref=twister_B06XKZGX5J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The 25U seems to be on sale for the same price.
I'm curious why you didn't just go with something like this 12U 4 post?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P1RJ9LS/
Unless you needed it to be enclosed, but I think it would be less work to enclose this than it was to create all that contraption you made.
I have a pair of these reformatted as a ZFS mirrored pool: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZTRXFBA
They're connected to my laptop over its 2 USB3 ports and so far things seem to be working out decently: ~200MB/s sustained reading speeds, ~50-80MB/s writing (understandable as these disks are SMRs).
yes -- the dock http://www.amazon.com/DOCK-ToughArmor-MB994SK-1B-6Gbps-Mobile/dp/B00PBOOLFK (supports up to 15mm drives), and the drives http://amzn.com/B00ZTRXFBA (12.2mm)
Plus you end up with free SATA-USB3 cables afterwards :P
If you can swing the extra $20 this is a 4TB no power supply external:
Seagate Backup Plus 4TB Portable External Hard Drive USB 3.0, Black (STDR4000100)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZTRXFBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bXazzbPQBKNKP
I modified a Seagate Backup Plus 4TB Portable External Hard Drive Link and used a Sata extension cable similar to this Link.
Its passively cooled and I haven't had any problems yet.
http://imgur.com/a/4ix9v
Seagate 4TB // USB Powered, and you may need one of these
(Ladco HDD Travel Case)
also, just so you don't fuck your shit up... it'd be a good investment for your sanity.
Build a tower with a Titanium rated PSU, a low wattage embedded ITX board from Asrock Rack or Supermicro w/ ECC support, a 9211-8i in IT mode and 2.5" 4TB Seagate drives (can be had for $100 by shucking externals). Really low wattage even with the drives spinning 24/7.
Here's a nice little drive bay.
Here's a lower mobo that would works great FreeNAS
Shuckable Seagate 4TB 2.5"
So, wattage wise, the drives idle at 1.1W each, the SAS card is about 8W, the CPU is a 14W TDP so I'll use that for the whole mobo's idle... looking at ~32W idle for the whole system? Maybe 40W at most. Also low noise.
Edit w/ moar partz!
Here's a decent and cheap Titanium PSU, very efficient. 8.2 by JonnyGuru.
Cheap Dell H310 HBA which can be reflashed to a 9211-8i IT mode for use with FreeNAS.
I use this one. I have never worried about it filling up or had speed issues.
Amazon has it in black for $110 w/o promo code, although I think the pictures wrong.
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Portable-External-Storage-STDR4000100/dp/B00ZTRXFBA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479579340&sr=8-1&keywords=Seagate%2BBackup%2BPlus%2B4TB%2BPortable%2BExternal%2BHard%2BDrive&th=1
Seriously. For just double that you can get quadruple the amount of space.
Was 99 when I posted, $114.97 or so @ the next comment now back to $99 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZTRXFBA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499480688&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=STDR4000100&dpPl=1&dpID=31D6-C4d5NL&ref=plSrch edit: apparently I don't know how to reply to comments.
I've had a version of the second one (actually this one) for over two years and performed flawlessly. Not always connected, I plug it once a week to backup photos and documents.
There isn't much performance upgrade if you get a SATA based M.2, which are comprably priced to standard SATA 2.5" SSDs. PCIe NVME based M.2s are much faster and much more expensive.
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-PRO-Internal-MZ-V5P512BW/dp/B01639694M
For the love of God, if you have a $5k budget you shouldn't even be considering an HDD. Get 1 or 2 TB of SSD storage.
I recommend at very least getting this as an OS/Boot drive:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-PRO-Internal-MZ-V5P512BW/dp/B01639694M/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1474296366&sr=1-1&keywords=samsung+950+pro+m.2
Also, you could probably afford SLI Titan X's (Pascal) with a 1000W PSU. I recommend doing that.
I have an Acer 14 and I love it, good choice on that one. There really isn't that much advice to give, but for your external drive, I'd recommend one of these. It makes it easy to just keep in in the laptop 100% of the time without being annoying. And I did buy a mouse for my Chromebook, but I never use it because I found it to more of a hassle than it was worth, since you'd have this nice sleek laptop, and it would be really annoying to carry around a mouse with it.
Buy you a couple of these if you get the chromebook 14...no need for a sd card slot and these work perfectly...https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-128GB-Flash-MUF-128BB-AM/dp/B017DH3O5A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467393132&sr=8-1&keywords=samsung+128+gb+flash+drive
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-128GB-Flash-MUF-128BB-AM/dp/B017DH3O5A/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1480966711&sr=8-5&keywords=usb+3.0+128gb
My recommendation is to skip the sd card and use one of the high capacity tiny usb drives. The sd card is very slow. I have the 200 gb one and I took it out because it was just so painfully slow.
I use this one https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-128GB-Flash-MUF-128BB-AM/dp/B017DH3O5A
The downside is having the little nub stick out the back, but it all fits in the zip up carrying case.
I've always used the HP USB disk format tool to recover my flash drives. Maybe try that to get them working again. It's on windows though. I'm not sure about your boot errors. I installed using dual Sandisk usb 2.0 cruiser fit 16gb and it seems to work fine (11.2). There used to be an issue with 3.0 drives which is why I bought 2.0 just in case but I think that has been fixed now.
I recently heard Freenas is now writing stuff to boot media more frequently which is causing more burnout on USB drives. Mine have been fine for a few years now on multiple servers and still going strong (knock on wood).
I think i used win32diskimager to write freenas iso to my usb drive so maybe try that. Other than that good luck i hope you get it resolved.
Default Raspbian Lite should be good enough for your purposes. Have a backup of the files on an external drive (get a small USB drive similar to this one), so that way in case the data does get corrupted then nothing is really lost.
I will note that there aren't really any distros designed to be shut down quickly, so you may want to look into using something like a small battery to control power to the Pi, then have the battery hooked to the car so it charges when the car is running. Then you can use a proper poweroff switch (I think you ground pins 5 and 6) to shut down properly and avoid corruption.
You might want to consider one of the low profile usb sticks. They are about the size of a wireless mouse receiver, so you could probably get by with leaving it plugged in all the time.
Something like this,
SanDisk Cruzer Fit CZ33 32GB USB 2.0 Low-Profile Flash Drive- SDCZ33-032G-B35 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00812F7O8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BWY5xb0Z56JSE
I have one of these, which seems to work quite well...
Doesn't stick out very far at all and can be kept in pretty much all the time. Of course, a drawback is that it uses one of your USB ports, which you may need for other purposes.
I've been using this in my truck for listening to MP3s. Sits snug and out of the way. A quick google search turned up this guy.
The read speed doesn't really matter much. Most head units do have a limitation on size though and it's usually measured in some arcane unit like number of folders or files. You can usually find that in the specs section of the manual. Also, may I suggest this USB drive instead? I have one and it's so much nicer than having something big sticking out of your dash ready to be broken off.
I have this 32 gb drive:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00812F7O8/
It is formatted fat32, but I honestly don't know what the file allocation size is, whatever it is in the package.
I also have a 2013 sonata (mine is a se). Mine resumes where I left off, reads tons of files/folders. It does lose the random setting if you turn the car off, but I think that is the car, not the drive. The cd player loses random settings as well when you turn off the car.
Anyway, if you can spring for it, I'd just buy the drive I linked above, leave it formatted as is when you get it and call it a day. I like that drive because it is so small you can almost close that cover over the USB port back down so it doesn't look like you have anything in there at all.
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
https://smile.amazon.com/HGST-Travelstar-2-5-Inch-Internal-0J22423/dp/B00B4QESVQ/ref=sr_1_1
---
^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot
Nice work op! I found [this HDD] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B4QESVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_JJ7Nwb6J57Y78) on Amazon for my laptop. Maybe take a look at it and see if you can find better ones in 3.5in. Best of luck!
I'd go with a 240GB SSD.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BQ8RM1A/?tag=pcpapi-20
120GB is enough for the OS, programs and a few games.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BQ4F9ZA/?tag=pcpapi-20
The 240GB is $48 more and you can fit around 10 more games on it. If you've played a game like Batman: Arkham Origins on both an SSD and a hard drive, you can see a big difference. It's much smoother.
A 250GB Samsung EVO
The EVO is the most popular SSD right now, striking a perfect balance between price, speed, and reliability. A cheaper option is a Crucial M500 which is still pretty good, but not as fast.
EDIT: Btw these are $10-$20 cheaper on Amazon, which is why I linked there, sorry.
This monitor if you don't need DVI: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-monitor-vn248h
The M500 is $110 over at Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-240GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-CT240M500SSD1/dp/B00BQ8RM1A).
The FX-6300 is $110 over at Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009O7YORK)
This is a better GPU for the $100 price range: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202081
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-240GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-CT240M500SSD1/dp/B00BQ8RM1A
This ssd is just as good and $20 less, you are seriously overpaying for yours. If you want to stick with the 840 evo I suggest lurking in /r/buildapc sales because it goes on sale for $70 every other week
Non-mobile link: http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-240GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-CT240M500SSD1/dp/B00BQ8RM1A
Also available on Amazon for $105.98 with free shipping.
If you want a nice display, the best display around is in the Acer Aspire V7-482PG.
It has an i5-4200U, 8GB RAM, 500GB HDD, Nvidia GT 750M graphics, and a beautiful 14" 1920x1080 IPS touch display.
It only weighs 4.4lbs and can get up to 8 hours of battery given the right conditions.
It's a great student laptop that has the backlit keyboard you're looking for and everything else, but no SSD. You have enough money left in the budget to upgrade the current HDD to a Crucial M500 SSD without going over budget.
You could even get an external enclosure to put the old hard drive in so you can just use it as an external hard drive. It'd also make the SSD install easier.
http://www.amazon.com/Drive-Security-Local-Backup-WDBFJK0040HBK-NESN/dp/B00E3RH61W
Same thing, same cost, but with Prime on Amazon.
I'm not the guy you're responding to, but at $99, here's Amazon's cheapest 3 Tb external:
http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STEB3000100/dp/B00TKFEEJ4/
Although if I were you I'd pony up the extra $18 and go for this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Book-Desktop-External-Drive-WDBFJK0040HBK-NESN/dp/B00E3RH61W/
Not only do I have more confidence in WD over Seagate, you also get an extra 1 Tb for that $18. Then again, if you don't care about brand, you can get 4 Tb for only $10 more:
http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STEB4000100/dp/B00TKFEE8K
Or you could go nuts and get 5 Tb for $129:
http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STEB5000100/dp/B00TKFEEBW/
There's no real good summary in the comments here, and I just looked into all of this since I'm in the same situation.
Nintendo recommends you use an externally powered hard drive, like this. The single USB port doesn't have enough power to use a more portable hard drive, like this, unless you have a Y-cable, like this. The Y-cable provides enough power to the hard drive for proper operation since there are two usb ports. The problem is that Y-cables can be hard to find locally, and you almost always have to order them online. Mine is taking 3 weeks to get here.
Flash drives can also be used, but Nintendo says that the constant writing and re-writing that occurs on the drive as a result of gameplay can eventually corrupt what is on the flash drive, possibly deleting data and save files. Of course, it's up to you what you do, but the general consensus is that externally powered hard drives are the most reliable way to go.
If you google "Nintendo Wii U Hard Drives" Nintendo has a whole page on it. Can't link to it since I'm at work.
I personally just bought this one.
I have no complaints on it. Choose your TB size on the page if you wish. I have linked the 4TB model. Its $148.22. 7200 RPM. USB 3.0, 3.5 inch hard drive size.
If you have a couple bucks to spend, just add another 4 TBs. Easy peasy.
4tb western digital drive.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E3RH61W?cache=a9d5a3856908422689dcffeed6a7e916&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1408546360&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1
WD has the same offer on Amazon if anyone prefers it to Seagate. Just got the 4 TB one myself and it works like a charm.
EDIT: Also this sale has been active for a few weeks now, it's not a cyber monday exclusive
I bought this one at the current price of $125. That's a hell of a deal for 4t.
I would seriously just buy this: http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Cruzer-Flash-Drive-SDCZ33-016G-B35/dp/B005FYNSZA
It doesn't fit flush into the Acer. Half of the SD card will stick out.
What some people do is upgrade to a larger capacity SSD. Or they buy a SanDisk Cruzer Fit USB drive that's about the size of a Logitech/Microsoft nano wireless receiver.
If you have storage elsewhere, or would be willing to go with a external USB drive, you could save a lot of money, space and power by going with the Intel NUC, youd also need the buy RAM, the Power cord, and a USB drive or mSATA drive. You'd be sub $250, and have no issues with 1080p in XBMC.
I have a 2011 R60 and decided it was easiest to just use a USB thumb drive for music. This is the one I have, works great. I also have a dual USB charger for the cigarette lighter to charge phones.
Well for the USB issue, I use a low profile USB drive This one actually and where do you have the microphone mounted?
as far as the cons...
consider one of these for your usb in the way flaw...
and for the washed out look with polarized sunglasses... thats pretty much going to be the case with any LCD screen
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Cruzer-Low-Profile-Drive-SDCZ33-016G-B35/dp/B005FYNSZA
this one is 128 gb and not much bigger.
On the bright side...
If you have a laptop or desktop computer, you can buy a cheap USB optical drive and copy all your CDs into MP3s.
Most of these new car decks have a USB port, and you don't need to plug a phone or iPod into it - you can just toss a bunch of MP3s onto a small thumb drive and plug that into the car's USB port.
a USB thats 16gbs is like $8 on Amazon. Not expensive at all in case someone here doesn't fulfill your request
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Cruzer-Low-Profile-Drive-SDCZ33-016G-B35/dp/B005FYNSZA/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1535816931&sr=1-3&refinements=p_n_size_browse-bin%3A1259715011
Are you looking for a closed project box ? Or a smaller USB?
I have a SanDisk Cruzer Fit. It's super-tiny (not much larger than the USB A connector), and it has a small metal loop on the back you can thread onto a key ring.
I can't speak to long-term durability, but it's so small and lightweight, it seems unlikely you could easily destroy/corrupt it with regular key chain carry. For $8 it might be worth your time to just give it a shot. With the way they fabricate these potted boards, it might even be reasonably water proof (assuming you dry it out before some of the metal parts start to significantly corrode).
Unraid OS runs off USB key like this one . All hard drives are for data only.
Take a look at their site for details, but basically you can mix and match your drives. So you can have 8TB + 6 + 2 + 1 + 320GB drives if you want. Eventually you can toss smaller drives for bigger and grow total space you have available. It's a very simple process. Once again Unraid has a pretty good wiki on how to do all that. I want to mention that each drive has it's own filesystem and all files are always intact (no striping), so technically you can yank a drive and put it in enclosure to move/recover files.
Your parity drive needs to be as large as the largest one in the array and it's the one that provides data loss protection if one of the drives shits the bed. Parity drive is optional, but you really should provision one drive for that.
Your parts look fine. I haven't heard of Avexir RAM brand before, but RAM is RAM as long as it works. Don't bother with CPU cooler. Pretty sure that i3 comes with stock cooler, stick with that, it's fine. You can always get that SSD later, it's not required.
You only need SSD (or just a dedicated drive in general) if you want cache drive and/or want to have docker containers for things like torrent client, plex, etc. It's a pretty nifty system. It's optional too. I didn't have SSD for a couple of months until I got sata expansion card to get more SATA ports. Speaking of which, your mobo only has 6 SATA ports, so you might need to get one too if you fill case with drives and want cache drive too.
Like others have said OP, You can use a cheap USB drive instead. I use this one and you can barely tell it's there. The Wii Us ports are only USB 2.0 just FYI. SanDisk Cruzer Fit CZ33 32GB USB 2.0 Low-Profile Flash Drive- SDCZ33-032G-B35 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00812F7O8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vvddAbC6F561V
Nintendoland sells for $25 on Amazon right now... so it seems if it is worth it to have 24GB more of onboard storage or not for $38. I would almost rather get a small flash drive like this that you can just keep plugged in:
http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Cruzer-Flash-Drive-SDCZ33-032G-B35/dp/B00812F7O8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1372261269&sr=8-3&keywords=64gb+flash+drive
Can you make the end a USB drive? the really small ones.
edit: Like this
I use this splitter and this flash drive. Just plug the splitter into the car, your phone into one side, and the flash drive into the other.
You can also partition the flash drive so that you can record off the Teslacam and play music at the same time, while charging your phone, all from 1 USB port.
Once I get the Jeda pad, I'm going to plug one of the chargers into the cigarette lighter, so then I won't need the splitter.
E: You could remove one of the ports, plug the splitter into it, and replace with one of the splits, with the other split hidden behind with the drive installed.
I was in the same boat. Here were my considerations...
and what i ended up deciding...
Based on the feedback so far, I'm leaning toward the Sandisk Ultra Fit.
In order of importance, my decision factors...
at least 1 day of videoat least 2000 miles of driving (over a month of driving) and reduce the number of re-writes.Thanks for helping me think it out.
discussion here
edit, changed recording time to distance driven, as it records while moving, not 24/7
You can get a low profile one if you're concerned about it sticking out. Sandisk makes a couple. I use this one. It doesn't need to be usb 3.
Compared to Sandisk's Cruser Fit
Transcend and PNY used to make them, called Internal USB Flash Module. Model fro the transcend was UFM-H. They are really too small to use these days, and expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Cruzer-Low-Profile-Drive-SDCZ33-032G-B35/dp/B00812F7O8
plus
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S
Is a cheaper, better replacement (specifically, those cruzer fits are known to be very good.)
Ah, gotcha. Personally, I would go with something like this in the front, then snake/extend the rear cable to somewhere more convenient for the phone.
I think something like this would work perfect for that. I think I may have a new project, I've got a 16gb and a 32gb laying around.
Ok, since there seems to be interest in doing this on your own so I'll give a quick run down.
And there you go! For much less money you can have your own unique vinyl toy that doubles as a USB drive!
Edit: I forgot to mention a few things. Other figures can also easily be used as your base. I'd highly recommend Super7 and other similar soft vinyl companies like Gargamel and Chiba Group for more unique designs for your base. Also, if you're into anime/games at all, you can easily use a full sized Nendoroid, but the process would be a little different as you'd be cutting non-hollow hard plastic instead, but the process would be much easier as you could simply glue the USB parts in. I also found a USB stick that meets all of the criteria for this that is quite cheap as well in SanDisk's Cruzer Fit series. But go crazy people, the possibilities are endless!
Sure!
The best way, in my opinion, is to pick up an inexpensive and small USB thumb drive (as opposed to using a phone or ipod) and simply load it up with .wma or .mp3 files. Those are the only two I know for certain it will support.
The advantages to this method are that it is cheap, it minimizes wires and devices in the vehicle, and USB flash drives are extremely hardy devices that can be left in the car year round.
While the car is off plug in the flash drive. After the flash drive is inserted, turn the car on and keep pressing the Source button on the steering wheel until the USB icon is shown on the iMID. The music should begin playing automatically.
The following is primarily intended towards vehicles equipped with the factory navigation & premium audio system and requires a fundamental understanding of Windows/Mac/Linux:
You can organize the folders, subfolders and the songs in the folders however you like, but the directory sorting on the Civic's audio system can be a bit unusual.
For example, if you put 3 files or folders on the drive named B, C and D and plug it into the Civic they will show up as B, C, and D in that order. However, if you later add a file or folder on the flash drive named A and plug it back into the Civic, you will see the files/folders sorted as B, C, D, A. This becomes problematic when you have a few hundred songs or folders and want a specific track. There is a program you can download to rewrite the directory structure on the flash drive and have them be re-sorted alphabetically but its far easier to simply put them on the Flash drive in alphabetical order in the first place. If you mass copy several hundred folders from your PC/Mac to the Flash drive it should, by default, copy them in alphabetical order preventing you from having to manually copy it all over and still have the nav screen sort the folders and/or tracks alphabetically.
I would recommend using this OTA DVR between your Cable box and tv (or xbox one) and a USB stick or USB hard drive, Any type of USB storage is needed for the DVR function. (it can hold up to 2TB max per drive)
Once your cable is gone, you can attach an antenna to it and continue to use the DVR with your xbox one for Over the Air channels with the xbox one guide.
Or you can get something like This TV Tuner stick for your PC and connect your Cable box to it and record shows on to your PC.
I don't know about movies but I'm at around 400 comic books (maybe more) 50 books and 20 or so text books plus 2-3 gigs of music and I've just about hit my limit.
I'm gonna buy another one of these to sit in my USBOTG http://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-Cruzer-Fit-32GB-SDCZ33-032G-B35/dp/B00812F7O8
I already have a 16gb and love it.
I hate having the USB sticking out of the console all the time as well. I ended up buying one of these. It is very small and hard to notice. It almost looks like an empty controller port.
I saw your other comment about chargers, and I have found it IS a little finicky there, with not all chargers working properly, or sometimes not getting enough voltage. Here are the other accessories I bought for it that have been compatible:
USB-C car charger
Anker power brick
flexible USB-C cable
tiny flash drive
I'm planning on using one of these... http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00812F7O8/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1348404036&sr=8-2 ...with a cable like the one linked above. Because of that, I'm also thinking of going for just the 8 GB model. Can't decide...
Without a hard drive I think you could still get quite a bit. At least around $650 - $700 from the right buyer. Putting a new 1TB HDD in there for about $60 might be worth it. I use eBay every day and have sold 30+ apple computers there - good photos help reduce potential returns or buyers remorse. Checking the buyer's feedback for their buying experience is a good way to avoid potential issues as well. Before selling I wipe the computer down with a high percentage alcohol wipe and I also include a charger. Let me know if you have any questions! GLWS
Ok. Was going to drop this on you:
HGST Travelstar 7K1000 2.5-Inch 1TB 7200 RPM SATA III 32MB Cache Internal Hard Drive 0J22423 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B4QESVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IBrIybNEHQND0
But just outside your range.
Buy a 2.5" bare internal drive, an external enclosure, put the drive in the enclosure and enjoy. This is a much better way to go because often when your typical passport type drives fail it's the sata bridge card that fails not the drive itself. You can then remove the drive and place it into a new enclosure or use a dock. Amazon links to the ones I use:
drive
enclosure
Not a problem
I use the 500GB version of this.
https://www.amazon.com/HGST-Travelstar-2-5-Inch-Internal-0J22423/dp/B00B4QESVQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467986038&sr=8-2&keywords=hitachi+7200+rpm+laptop
Installing an SSD in the PS3 won't make as big of a difference as you think. The SATA interface in the PS3 is archaic, and a nice fast Spindle HDD's performance would be imperceptible from that of an SSD, while providing you with a massive amount of storage.
Yes, it's an improvement though not a huge one. I've never tried that drive. I have this drive, it's the same manufacturer as the stock hard drive but this model is 1tb (a bit too small) and 7200rpm. It's dead silent for me though one review mentioned clicking. Maybe they're isolated cases?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B4QESVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_e5WywbN01SYNP
This is the 32Mb cache version with 1TB of storage. The 64Mb version will be a tad faster for $6 more US dollars because of how the drive is being used. Since you games are constantly accessing the drive, more cache will help a bit in speed but it's not necessary. I've seen this on amazon as low as $56 too so just keep a look out if it's a bit out of your price range. Plus the PS4 wouldn't be able to maximize an SSD's power since it's running on SATA II, which has a lower bandwidth limit than modern SATA III SSD'S
https://www.amazon.com/HGST-Travelstar-2-5-Inch-Internal-0J22423/dp/B00B4QESVQ
They don't make a 2 TB model though, you'll have to get a sketchy firecuda to get 2 TB
http://www.amazon.com/HGST-Travelstar-2-5-Inch-Internal-0J22423/dp/B00B4QESVQ/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
This would double your space for a little more than the cost of a new games.
please note that almost everyone that has this drive experiences a frequent and annoying "beeping" coming from the harddrive. no one knows why and their is no fix. just the price u pay for having the only 9.5mm 2.5" 2TB hdd on the market, made by a company that anyone with any tech experience whatsoever has sworn a solemn oath to avoid for all eternity
edit: might i make a recommendation: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00B4QESVQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1459342145&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=hgst+1tb+2.5%22&dpPl=1&dpID=415ntMkKY6L&ref=plSrch
I use this 1TB drive. Same brand as the stock hard drive so I felt confident in it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B4QESVQ/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Will this drive fit? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4QESVQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Any of them. That one looks kind of pricey for what it is... as in this one is cheaper with a better brand.
The PSU is overkill for what you actually need, unless the silent part is your main purchasing factor. For only £60, you could get a CX750 that would do everything you need it to do, including future SLI.
Also, a Crucial M500 240GB would be a good SSD option for £84.
That case is hideously overpriced. For £80 shipped, you could get a Define R4 that's just as good of quality and to me looks better.
[EDIT]: With the extra £55 you just saved, you could throw in a Hyper 412S for £27.
NP. That should make a pretty good gaming machine.
EDIT: if you even want to save more money for slightly less SSD speed you could go with a Crucial 240GB instead of the samsung. Well worth the ~$30 less IMO.
Not for the money, no. The i7 U processor and i5 U processor are essentially the same features, only difference is clock speed - which isn't really something you'll feel a big difference on, at least not nearly $300 worth of one. Were it an i7 MQ/HQ it'd be quad-core, so there you'd see a difference, but that's not an option on this system (due to power usage).
The system has 4GB RAM soldered, true, but there's one open DIMM slot that can fit up to a single 8GB SO-DIMM in. So the max memory for the system is 12GB.
Yea you could save about ~$100 installing your own SSD, if you're comfortable doing so. From Notebookcheck's internal look, it appears the 256GB they include is the Samsung 840 Pro, which is one of the best SSDs on the market, and retails for about $220. If you were to install your own, you could get a much cheaper Crucial M500 240GB for $120.
I got my 240 for $130. Not great, but nowhere near bad. I just didn't want to wait for the prices to drop any more because I needed the extra space. Also, did you but the PNY from Amazon? There seems to be many counterfeit PNY on amazon. My SSD was a crucial 240gb and it's currently $120, and definitely worth it. It works great, and is like half the price of the samsung and intel ones.
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-240GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-CT240M500SSD1/dp/B00BQ8RM1A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1396888334&sr=8-3&keywords=SSD
The Crucial M500 240GB is on sale right now. You also get 20% off on it if you're using the Amazon credit card and input a promo code (I'm not sure if this applies to Amazon UK though).
Also on Amazon.ca if you prefer for $89.99.
This one for example. It's available at different sizes, but if 250 GB were ok for you, this one should have a great price/performance ratio.
I've got the 512 GB version of the predecessor and it's great.
Yes there is room for an SSD. It (Mobo) does not have a SATA 3 port (Only Sata2?) i believe but it will still run very fast, about 200-300mb/s transfer speeds. You do not need an SSD really; It helps having it sure but its by no means a MUST. A harddrive will do just fine. If your able to pick up an SSD, go for it. Heres an SSD thats cheap and good.
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-2-5-Inch-adapter-Internal-CT240M500SSD1/dp/B00BQ8RM1A
It's helpful to have quicker boot times, faster program loading, and quicker data access but it should not affect the quality of gaming that much.
Samsung
Crucial
Thats cool, so would it just make sense to get a SATA II 3GB/s seeing as thats the type my motherboard supports? Or would it be better in the long run to get the SATA III 6GB/s?
Here's some examples I've been looking at
SATA 3GB/S - http://www.amazon.co.uk/OCZ-VTXPLR2-25SAT2-240G-240GB-Vertex-Internal/dp/B0085U6ZBK/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
SATA 6GB/S - http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BQ8RM1A/ref=noref?ie=UTF8&psc=1&s=computers#productDetails
Don't get that PSU. It is like a leafblower. I just replaced it today with a Corsair RM650 as I couldnt stand it anymore. Already RMAd it and there was no change in noise. Otherwise very good PSU.
You can get a Crucial M500 ssd from amazon for $109
A cheaper motherboard would work unless you need lots of sata ports.
Just as a side note, [Amazon has it for $119.99] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQ8RM1A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER) and is eligible for Prime.
Ordered from there because I had $60 in gift card balance.
What's the major differences between that and this? Except the warranty and read/write speed.
I'm not sure if this SSD is any good but they've just made it cheaper.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BQ8RM1A/
No problem! I got this one - the 240GB variant. Any smaller and it would've been too much work to keep junk off of it in the long run, and I didn't want to pay more than that at the time, or I would've gone bigger. The 240 was the right price for me at the time.
I also got this hard drive caddy that goes into the optical bay so I could move my stock hard drive to where my DVD drive was.
Then I symlinked some of the larger folders in my User folder to folders on that second drive. This article from Matt Gemmell helped me figure that part out.
Then for good measure I put it on a Rain Design mStand and got a detached keyboard, mouse, and a powered USB hub to make it easy to disconnect it and run out the door.
Can anyone tell me if it's worth the price difference over this deal?
I'm willing to pay more for better quality, but if it's negligible I want to grab the Crucial before it's up in 40 minutes.
Best/cheapest 4TB+ external hard drives?
Portable would be nice as well.
These are some I have been looking at:
1
[2](http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Portable-External-Storage-STDR4000900/dp/B0196J43TE?ie=UTF8&keywords=Seagate%20Backup%20Plus%204TB%20Portable%20External%20Hard%20Drive%20with%20200GB%20of%20Cloud%20Storage%20USB%203.0%2C%20Silver%20(STDR4000900)
3
4
I have this one. Works great, quiet, no problems. I went 4TB because there's no reason not to. You're gonna fill up a 1 or 2TB faster than you think as game files get bigger and bigger, BC ramps up, GWG continues at 4 games per month, etc.
Definitely the best deal here. One thing you definitely need to understand is that this is only going to be a 500GB system which really isn't enough space for most xbox one players. If you're only going to play halo on it, then that is perfect for you. If you know you're going to buy more games, then you need to start looking at external hard drives (EHD) that will work with your xbox. I got a 4TB WD My Book External Hard Drive which has worked really well with my xbox one and I got it on amazon for $98 https://www.amazon.com/Book-Desktop-External-Drive-WDBFJK0040HBK-NESN/dp/B00E3RH61W/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1473731188&sr=8-6&keywords=4tb+external+hard+drive+usb+3.0 (It was cheaper for some reason. Right place right time I guess) so I would just look around for a deal on something like that. You can research with a google search on what EHDs work with Xbox one if you have a preferred brand in mind. Up to you. That's just my two cents though. I started playing Halo: Combat Evolved when I was 10 with my older brother. I'll never forget those years and that's why I'll be an Xbox customer for life. Hope you and your son enjoy it!
Just recently are you getting some 3.5 external hds that can be powered only from usb. Alot of models will not function without an external power source, doesn't matter if its plugged into a 2.0 or 3.0 usb port.
This drive is the exact one I have https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81QyMtiyISL._SL1500_.jpg This is the link to the drive https://www.amazon.com/Book-Desktop-External-Drive-WDBFJK0040HBK-NESN/dp/B00E3RH61W. Unlike 2.5 inch drives that typically have a integrated pcb, most 3.5 internals are just internal 3.5 drives in an enclosure, and they just use a power brick to power them.
> It's primary use will to be used to backup game development files, that's pretty much it.
why not just get an external hard drive? it will be cheaper, more storage space, and lower power consumption.
http://www.amazon.com/Book-USB-Hard-Drive-Backup/dp/B00E3RH61W
http://www.amazon.com/Book-Desktop-External-Drive-WDBFJK0040HBK-NESN/dp/B00E3RH61W/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1453414918&sr=1-9&keywords=external+hard+drive
That's what I have 4TB. Works like a charm and I haven't had a problem with games at all on it.
Here you go: http://www.amazon.com/Book-USB-Hard-Drive-Backup/dp/B00E3RH61W?tag=wpcentralb-20&m1k=d_wp
Update: Apparently you can grab this 3 TB Samsung drive from New Egg (via Ebay) for $80 right now: http://www.ebay.com/itm/381043291273?rmvSB=true
http://www.amazon.com/Book-USB-Hard-Drive-Backup/dp/B00E3RH61W
I highly recommend it. Its what Im rolling with. Digital games also load slightly faster.
Thanks! This one https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-128GB-Flash-MUF-128BB-AM/dp/B017DH3O5A/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=samsung+fit+128gb&qid=1556470677&s=gateway&sr=8-3 or https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07D7PDLXC/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile?
Okay. You're confusing interface with protocol which is very common. The interface is the way you connect them-- M.2 goes straight on your mobo with a small form factor, while 2.5" are larger, easily portable, but require cables to connect.
nVME is a fast protocol that allows the SSD to make use of PCI slot speeds, meaning like way faster than SATA, which is the more mainstream SSD protocol. Here's where things get confusing: 2.5" SSDs (the bigger ones) only use SATA (slower), while M.2 SSDs come in both nVME (speedy and expensive) and SATA.
Of the two, go with the nVME. But tbh, if you don't specifically have an application for the extra speed you won't benefit from it. Boot times are like 7 seconds vs 8 seconds. Which is why I always say buy SSDs for price/gb!!!
For example, the MX300 comes in both 2.5" and M.2 form factors. It will be identical to these expensive samsungs for your purposes but you can get like twice the storage. There are many options to explore. I offer pcpartpicker.com as a good website to use.
I personally like both form factors, but M.2 is certainly easier to use.
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-480GB-SDSSDA-480G-G26-Newest-Version/dp/B01F9G46Q8/
random 2.5" i found 500gb
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX300-525GB-Internal-CT525MX300SSD4/dp/B01L80DH4G/ random M.2 i found 500gb
I just got one. They really do make a difference, especially if your system memory is getting full.
I got away with spending only $75 for 480GB
Be careful though.
I saw a lot of no name chinese knockoffs at $50 that I would not trust.
Your most cost effective route is to get a drive and a $10-$20 enclosure separately.
Last month i got mine on sale for $12 off.
Amazon.com: SanDisk SSD PLUS 480GB Internal SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm - SDSSDA-480G-G26: Computers & Accessories
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-480GB-Solid-State-SDSSDA-480G-G26/dp/B01F9G46Q8/ref=pd_gwm_cr_simh_1?pf_rd_s=blackjack-experiment-1&pf_rd_t=Gateway&pf_rd_i=mobile&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pd_rd_wg=T9fbq&pd_rd_r=ST92QT0JTXTFGHM7V1SR&pd_rd_w=xHntF&pf_rd_r=C3ZYYCCWR3Q3EDR2MGBC&pf_rd_p=4330ddf3-ae16-472e-a2ae-05b619e5e749&pd_rd_i=B01F9G46Q8
And
Amazon.com: UGREEN USB C Hard Drive Enclosure USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type C to SATA External Hard Drive Disk Case Adapter Housing for 9.5mm 7mm 2.5 Inch SATA I II III, PS4, HDD, SSD, 6Gbps Fast Speed UASP Tool Free: Gateway
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Enclosure-External-Adapter-Housing/dp/B07D2BHVBD/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?keywords=external+drive+enclosure&qid=1566190374&s=gateway&sprefix=exterlan+drive&sr=8-13
Dalla regia di /r/italyinformatica ci informano che gli hard disk meccanici sono roba demodè, aggiornatevi con SSD.
Sandisk 480GB 2.5" SataIII 119€
https://www.amazon.it/dp/B01F9G46Q8
Oppure
Samsung 500 GB SSD Serie 850 EVO 2.5" Sata III - 129,00€
http://www.ebay.it/itm/191659530604
Any SSD will be an upgrade. I believe the late 08 can go to 8gb of RAM, if it can, I'd do that with the SSD, you'll extend it a few years easily, though you're stuck at El Cap, I believe.
480 GB SSD for 130
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-240GB-SDSSDA-240G-G26-Newest-Version/dp/B01F9G46Q8/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1491107037&sr=8-8&keywords=480gb%2Bssd&th=1
Screwdriver kit (if you don't have one, you'll need a Phillips #0 and a Torx T5 or 6 for the hard drive nubbins, skip if you have one!) for 15
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015F734P0/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A13PRKMVKLJGWH
IDE/SATA to USB (if you want to copy data from old HDD to the SSD. Ignore if you want to start fresh) for 11.
https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Adapter-Converter-Optical-External/dp/B01J7MWD4M/ref=sr_1_18?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491107469&sr=1-18&keywords=ide+sata+to+usb
1660ti $279 (on amazon febuary 22, try to order quickly, i expect high demand)
2x4gb ddr4 (better performance than 1x8gb) $60 https://www.amazon.com/Patriot-Signature-2666MHz-PC4-21300-Heatshield/dp/B07BRYVFKL/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550653071&sr=8-3&keywords=2x4gb
b350 or b450 (no performance difference) $63 https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-480GB-Solid-State-SDSSDA-480G-G26/dp/B01F9G46Q8/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1550653358&sr=1-6&keywords=512gb+ssd&refinements=p_n_feature_three_browse-bin%3A14027459011
case (depends on your aesthetics) ~$35 https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Micro-ATX-Computer-Gaming-CASE-V06/dp/B01GSQ2I22/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1550653848&sr=1-2&keywords=computer+case
lepa n400 500w psu $40 https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6ZP3N68355&ignorebbr=1
sandisk 480gb ssd $60 https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-480GB-Solid-State-SDSSDA-480G-G26/dp/B01F9G46Q8/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1550653358&sr=1-6&keywords=512gb+ssd&refinements=p_n_feature_three_browse-bin%3A14027459011
Check r/buildapcsales, for price savings and when sales happen. you might pick some different components based off that. don't worry about brands too much, the internet is filled with fanboyism.
how do these compare to the sandisk ssd's that are currently on sale for £49.98?:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-PLUS-Sata-Inch-Internal/dp/B01F9G46Q8/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=EKSEWDS2X31WJNXZ78V1
Great deal new - https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-PLUS-Sata-Inch-Internal/dp/B01F9G46Q8
SSDs:
HDDs:
SanDisk SSD PLUS 480GB Internal SSD $60 on Amazon. That would be pretty easy. If you want to get them 1GB, Amazon has starting at $107
I would pick up whatever is cheapest per GB since you won't be able to utilize full SATA3 bandwidth either way. There's a 480GB Sandisk SSD on sale for $99 right now.
I wouldn't suggest a SSHD really, it's nowhere near as fast as a SSD, and only provides some caching performance bonusses over a regular HDD. And for the nearly £65 listed, you could get a 500GB SSD off Amazon instead
https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-PLUS-Sata-Inch-Internal/dp/B01F9G46Q8/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=ssd&qid=1554975287&s=gateway&sr=8-5
​
My bad on the case part, i had it mixed up with the bigger series they produce. The Arctic alpine should fit though.
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-480GB-Solid-State-SDSSDA-480G-G26/dp/B01F9G46Q8/
+
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJ3UJ2S/
I got the 480 gb SSD for $60, but you can get a 240 gb for $33 and it will work just as good.
Thanks for your time and research! I apologize, I was comparing the two different SSDs and I copy/pasted the wrong link. this is the correct link: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01F9G46Q8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468487161&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=ssd+new+version&dpPl=1&dpID=31-X%2BjRZTpL&ref=plSrch
Do you suggest I keep the SSD Plus (new) or a OCZ Trion 150 480gb?
I'm guessing you're not running an SSD?
I know you probably don't want to throw money at the issue but if you're not on an SSD it's a very beneficial upgrade. The SSDs that fit a 2011 MB are pretty cheap and it would really breathe new life into your mac.
Example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F9G46Q8/
Id get a 2tb+. They don't cost much more, and are faster than the 1tb ones and you have more space.
All deskto pdrive are sata and will fit fine.
RPM doesn't matter too much, the difference is small, and there is more to performance than rpm alone.
Id probably get this personally. https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000DM008/dp/B01IEKG4NE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524725783&sr=8-3&keywords=3tb+hdd&dpID=51iBtotsShL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
How does this compare to this one: Seagate BarraCuda 3TB 3.5-Inch SATA 6 Gb/s Internal Hard Drive (ST3000DM008) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IEKG4NE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wvFhAbNEJB9WJ ?
Instead of two 1TB/ 2TB toshiba get two of these: https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000DM008/dp/B01IEKG4NE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475258553&sr=8-1&keywords=3tb+hd
I just bought one and they are pretty fast. Solid 150MB/s file write when moving game files, read is very quick and can load big games like GTA V in a respectable time.
LEPA AquaChanger 240 103.6 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler -- Just get an air cooler, these "budget" liquid coolers can be louder and more expensive. It really isn't worth it if that is the case with this one.
Samsung 850 EVO 120GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive -- Forget the m.2, get a 240GB 850 evo ssd, 120 is pretty damn small. Leave yourself enough space to put core application on the SSD. You could also put your favorite game on it to speed up loading times.
These are just my personal suggestions.
Well, the drive pictured is the the one with high failure rates. If you can, return/cancel the order and get one of these: Seagate 3TB BarraCuda SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Hard Drive (ST3000DM008) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IEKG4NE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_H7e1xb5X0N4VZ
Appears to be an older model (ST3000DM001) and there is a newer model (ST3000DM008) with better Amazon reviews. But it's still a good deal on a 3TB 7200RPM HDD.
Edit: It may serve best as a secondary drive though, as /u/LasVegasWasFun pointed out that the Newegg reviews don't inspire confidence.
You can get a brand new Seagate 3TB drive for the same price, you might want to consider dropping yours significantly.
Then upgrade your storage space or delete stuff you no longer need? Storage space is very cheap nowadays, both mechanical and SSD (don't go for hybrids aka SSHD - they suck). The exception to this is M.2 which is still somewhat expensive depending on where you look. If you're on console, you can upgrade to a 7200RPM HDD:
https://www.amazon.com/Notebook-Laptop-Drive-Playstation-MacBook/dp/B010CBASS0/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1543407783&sr=1-5&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A4682011011
​
If you're on PC, you have some options, such as:
https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-Digital-SSDNow-SV300S37A-120G/dp/B00A1ZTZOG
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-Internal-3-5-Inch-ST3000DM008/dp/B01IEKG4NE/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1543408185&sr=1-3&keywords=3tb+hard+drive
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-250GB-MZ-V7E250BW/dp/B07BN5FJZQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1543408217&sr=1-3&keywords=m.2
Currently Amazon is selling a 3TB Seagate mechanical hard drive for $100. Is there a chance hard drive prices will go down even more for black friday/cyber monday?
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IEKG4NE/ref=twister_B01IK57UNQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
> Your storage drive sitting on your desk is not even in the same ballpark.
Do the bank's terabytes work differently?
Because the drives on my desk literally hold video files. That's why they're there.
So no, they're in the same ballpark. They're in the same seats, even.
> Bigger branches can have dozens of cameras.
Which is why I didn't say "Just use the ones from my desk." I allotted for several dozens of those drives.
> They are also in constant use, some of them 24/7.
I didn't come up with the numbers, I'm just responding to the guy who did. He claimed a single camera would take about a terabyte of storage. x3 for backups.
Here's his math:
> Some quick mafs later (900,000/8 60 60 24 90)
Already accounting for 24/7 use over a three month period. Are you arguing that only some of those will be in use 24/7? Great, the cost goes down even more.
But let's stick with his numbers, instead of the ones you're using which claim they'd need even less data. So 3tb per camera all in, for a 90-day period.
3tb hard drives that can sit on someone's desk are less than a hundred dollars
A dozen cameras means a dozen 3tb hard drives, or a dozen-hundred dollars (12 $100 = $1200).
That's $1200 for storage for a dozen cameras.
You have a huge bank and need 3 dozen?
$3600.
Oh, plus the desk to put them on.
Oh no, how will the bank survive with such a big hit to their budget.
And again, I'm just going off the OP's numbers.
e: if we switch to solid state drives which would increase those numbers a bit, but would still be an incredibly cheap* figure. But we don't really need to use solid state drives, because we have x3 drives specifically for backups in case of error or failure.
HDD is better "dollar value," SSD is dramatically better performance for load times, general feel, etc. But if value is most important, you can get 3TBs for < $100, easily.
If you don't need space, this is the best 250 GB SDD for < $100.
Or both: SanDisk SSD PLUS 120GB + Seagate 1TB BarraCuda for roughly $98.
Is it? Amazon and Newegg reviews seem to be okay. Are you referring to the Backblaze reliability report they put out every year?
Also being sold by amazon for same price..
https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-ST3000DM008-BarraCuda-Cache-Internal/dp/B01IEKG4NE
As far as I can see NCIX doesn't have free shipping so amazon is probably the better option.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01IEKG4NE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/offer-listing/B01IEKG4NE/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=new
Select the one from amazon
My build is mainly for lightroom/photoshop.
For the moment I got:
What I'm missing:
If you scroll down on Ledger's retailers page they link to their official Amazon Store. I only wonder why their Amazon page has them in stock but buying directly from their website is still sold out.
It's a physical USB that can store cryptos so you can set it aside and let the coin grow without having to worry about something happening to it, say you keep it in a computer wallet and your computer gets hacked and they have access to your wallet...if you have your crypto in the ledger they don't have access to or even know you own whatever is on it.
edit: https://www.amazon.com/Ledger-Nano-Cryptocurrency-Hardware-Wallet/dp/B01J66NF46
I appreciate the reply, I'm just starting to get on the ladder and it's quite a steep learning curve!
Is something like this a good thing to invest in?
I'm guessing the process would be buy on coinbase and move to my wallet over and over?
Or I can get it for $80 shipped on Amazon...
https://smile.amazon.com/Ledger-Nano-Cryptocurrency-Hardware-Wallet/dp/B01J66NF46?sa-no-redirect=1
Hodl on for dear life. People have money at stake and they all want yours. Welcome to the jungle.....and get yourself a Ledger Nano S before someone sticks a keylogger on your computer and steals all your coins from the comfort of their home.
This is where I had bought the ledger
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/Ledger-Nano-Cryptocurrency-Hardware-Wallet/dp/B01J66NF46/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543417415&sr=8-3&keywords=ledger
FYI Ledger Nano S currently $49 on Amazon for Black Friday
https://www.amazon.com/Ledger-Nano-Cryptocurrency-hardware-wallet/dp/B01J66NF46/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501770883&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ledger+nano+s
https://www.ledgerwallet.com/products/ledger-nano-s
Looks like the official site has the lower price. Both sources are operated/supplied directly from Ledger.
Ordered my ledger off of Amazon on Friday, arrived Monday. Free prime shipping.
Hey guys... I should probably know better by now and I'm almost embarrassed to ask this, but... is it safe to buy HD wallets off Amazon?
https://www.amazon.com/Ledger-Nano-Cryptocurrency-hardware-wallet/dp/B01J66NF46/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505489669&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=nano+s
I just bought a backup one. What I did: Go to Amazon, look at list of sellers, check the prime box (optional), find a good seller with lots of ratings, click add to cart. link to sellers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01J66NF46/ref=olp_f_new?ie=UTF8&amp;f_new=true
they've gotten a lot cheaper recently.
Instead, why not buy two of these, shuck the drives, and then have WD Reds for the same, or slightly less, per-TB price you would have bought the blues at? Only downside is you need to start out with larger capacities.
Easystores have a WD Red (sometimes white label which is a red drive with some quirks) NAS drive which is popular for 24/7 usage. These have either an archive drive or a barracuda drive. Archive drives are bad for frequent writes, but are good for backing up/storing once and reading many times as they use shingled magnetic recording. The Barracuda is a desktop drive, which is kind of the middle ground. If you are going to use this one as an external drive, it has a two port usb 3.0 hub in the front that the Easystore does not. Another alternative is to buy the WD Mybook which is guaranteed to have a WD Red and has a 3-year warranty. Currently @ 184.99.
If you don't find used, do you know about shucking? I just bought one of these for $189, removed it from the case, put tape over the 3rd pin and voila 8tb for 1/2 the price
https://www.amazon.ca/Western-Digital-External-Drive-USB-3-0-WDBBGB0080HBK-NESN/dp/B01LQQHLGC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2IIR164JP1P5N&amp;keywords=8tb+wd+external&amp;qid=1563547367&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=8tb+wd+ex%2Caps%2C138&amp;sr=8-1
After the drive is filled, if you add more to it or change an existing file, it has to go back and rewrite everything after the part of the data you are replacing, for that it can be horribly slow. I hate to imagine what would happen if you turned it off while that is still happening.
Basically any cheap Seagate drive is using this technology. That goes for 8tb desktop drives/externals, as well as 4TB and up 2.5inch drives.
Personally I'd go with something like this WD drive.
Why would you go with $160 for 6 TB Seagate Barracudas when you can get a higher quality WD NAS drive with 8TB of capacity for the same price?
Shuck these and they have drives similar to the WD Reds which retail for much higher:
https://www.amazon.com/Book-Desktop-External-Drive-WDBBGB0080HBK-NESN/dp/B01LQQHLGC
I see this one at Amazon for $183: https://www.amazon.com/Book-Desktop-External-Drive-WDBBGB0080HBK-NESN/dp/B01LQQHLGC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Does this means it's a fairly standard price or is the Amazon one different?
How cheap can you normally find this drive?
Thanks!
FWIW, I'm in Melbourne and recently price matched an 8TB MyBook drive at Officeworks to the current price on NewEgg.
edit The 8TB drives on Amazon.com.au are $266.52AUD shipped, might be worth checking Officeworks to see if they'll match that.
https://www.amazon.com.au/WD-Desktop-External-Drive-WDBBGB0080HBK-NESN/dp/B01LQQHLGC/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542075936&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=mybook+8tb
Amazon has 8tb wd external drives for $200. I'm not sure if they are shuckable though..
There are some listed as used-like new by Amazon warehouse for $180
WD 8TB My Book Desktop External Hard Drive - USB 3.0 - WDBBGB0080HBK-NESN https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LQQHLGC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_F7ltzbWTMQVQ0
If you are a digital media hoarder like me then you are better off with NAS where you can add hard drives as they fill up. Look at Synology DS418 or equivalent QNAP version.
This is going to be very expensive if you go this route with cost of NAS + multiple hard drives.
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Cheaper option is to stick in an 8TB drive like WD 8TB My Book. It often goes on sales between $110 - 120. If you are in US thanksgiving sale is close and you might get one then.
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My set up is an old windows home server holding all media/data which shares media across all my devices in home (20TB).
For the shield I just have a 128GB sandisk Ultra USB drive attached to it to expand space.
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You can use camelcamelcamel for alerts and price history.
There is a myBook currently on sale for 160 USD.
See the sidebar for WD Easystore compendium -->
Not really any "qualities" to look for.
Suggested Brands: Western Digital (WD) or Seagate
Connection: USB 3.0
Size: Larger than 256 GB.
Anything that fits that, will work. I use a [Western Digital "MyBook" 8TB] (https://www.amazon.com/Book-Desktop-External-Drive-WDBBGB0080HBK-NESN/dp/B01LQQHLGC/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=western+digital+external+hard+drive&amp;qid=1570487137&amp;sr=8-5)
But you can get whatever size you need.
No worries at all mate.
Here you go
https://www.amazon.ca/Western-Digital-External-Drive-USB-3-0-WDBBGB0080HBK-NESN/dp/B01LQQHLGC/
They are 234.99 at the moment, so if you want i can send you a $15off staples coupon (PM me). I did most of my price matching and buying in store. You just tell the teller that you want to price match to amazon.ca and when they price match it mention that you have a coupon (either print it or read out the code to them, which they will enter in the system and you will get $15 off after the price match)
As for the Mybook having Reds, check the this link
https://www.reddit.com/r/DataHoarder/comments/75070x/wd_8tbs_on_sale_again/do2vlel/
I have the 3rd model listed there (WD80EMAZ (256 MB Cache with Enterprise Sata Connector)
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Edit : oh wow down to $228.99 now. I guess buying couple more won't hurt ;)
Anyone know if the 1 drive version of this has the red drive as well? https://www.amazon.com/16TB-Desktop-External-Drive-WDBLWE0160JCH-NESN/dp/B01LQQHLGC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1 in which case, if you were just popping the drives out, wouldn't it be cheaper to get 2 of the single drive ones at $229 ea vs the dual drive one for $500?
Amazon canada has been selling at that price for months now: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01LQQHLGC/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB
I love how Newegg calls it a "sale" by setting their regular price $150 more than amazon, then claiming "sale" by setting it like everyone.
Is this drive better or worse than WD 8TB My Book Desktop External Hard Drive - USB 3.0 - WDBBGB0080HBK-NESN, other than price of course.
unsure :/ the 4tb also listed on the same page linked above was $90 yesterday, but has since gone up to $110.
Looks like Amazons version (WD MyBook) also looks to have a WD Red on the 8tb sku (per the reviews) has been hovering around $200-$210 since February.
https://camelcamelcamel.com/Book-Desktop-External-Drive-WDBBGB0080HBK-NESN/product/B01LQQHLGC
No problem. If you don't need SSD only, you can always get a good hybrid drive that will set you up with a couple TB of storage for a lot cheaper than a SSD. Still get a SSD to run for a boot drive at the least however.
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These WD 1TB's will get the job done for a cheaper as well. Their M.2 sells for the same price.
Wanting to get a 1TB SSD for my PC. I don't have a specific budget set, but I'm trying to go for the cheapest option that doesn't make major sacrifices to quality. I had the 860 EVO recommended to me, and I had the Western Digital Blue and Crucial MX500 recommended if they are more than $5 cheaper than the EVO.
Could I get a second opinion on them? Thanks!
The best non-Samsung SATA SSD is probably the WD Blue 3D NAND @ $180.
For what it's worth, there's really no issues dealing with Samsung warranty, so long as you know to contact TotalTS (Samsung's SSD service provider), and not Samsung Canada (who service TVs and fridges and the like).
I don't like that Hitachi 2TB hard drive. Not that there's anything wrong with the drive, but $35 price point and the drive model is almost 7 years old is just odd with me. I wouldn't be surprised if the warranty is already expired and/or you're really getting a reconditioned drive. I would find another 1TB or 2TB elsewhere, maybe a Seagate Barracuda 2TB.
Also, I would opt for a larger NVME SSD, maybe a 512GB. That 120GB will not last long and you'll fill it up with apps and documents very quickly. Probably this Sabrent Rocket 512GB NVME is what I would get instead.
Everything else looks fine to me.
Edit spelling
Looks pretty solid man. Could save some money by going to a sabrent rocket ssd with the same storage and same read speeds. https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-SB-ROCKET-512-Rocket-Internal-Performance/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=500gb+nvme+ssd&qid=1572218584&sr=8-9
Does have slightly less TBW then the samsung one.
Just goto amazon type in sabrent rocket.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-SB-ROCKET-512-Rocket-Internal-Performance/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmrnull_1?crid=3U5PRGVJP9WZ9&amp;keywords=sabrent%2Brocket&amp;qid=1556298437&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=sabrent%2Br&amp;sr=8-1-fkmrnull&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
They seem to be pretty exclusive, like not may vendors sell them yet. Not sure when the coupon drops but you could email them.
have you been to pcpartspicker.com?
You can start a build with that CPU and then select compatible parts based on price, reviews, and availability.
I just built a system based on the same CPU and motherboard. Here is the harddrive I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KGMBCKD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and the memory:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B2Y1N8B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and the power supply:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077V57T7K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I used an Inwin 301 case but I would not recommend it as the cable management is a little fiddly and the front panel has a giant LED plate that is not RGP controllable and can't be turned off or dimmed.
With your budget, you might look into getting him a 240mm all-in-one water cooler so he can plan with overclocking. Something like this would be sufficient:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hmBTwP/corsair-h100i-pro-750-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-cw-9060033-ww
WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm - WDS100T2B0A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zZc7Cb3KWDY0Q
Something like this. It would be way faster loading up games hell even windows and is less prone to getting screwed up. It would be worth it.
>WDS100T2B0A
Yes, just be careful not to get the M.2 or PCI versions. For example, this one should work on a standard SATA drive connector:
https://www.amazon.ca/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/
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This one is an M.2. style, which would *NOT* fit your board
https://www.amazon.ca/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0B/dp/B073SB2MXT
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The model #'s are pretty similar, but you can see from the pictures that they're quite different (M.2 is a chip style, whereas the standard SATA is roughly the size of a laptop drive). Note that while standard SSH's are the size of 2.5" laptop drives, most come with a little plate or whatever to fit a full-size (3.5") bracket for desktops
I suggested a more reliable motherboard because you don't want a 10 hours rendering to fail in the middle when the PC shuts down and restarts due to stability. I recommend getting an even better (and expensive) model but you're already reluctant to spend an extra cad$20 for the Aorus M.
SSD: sorry, I didn't notice it. Consider the mainstream WD Blue rather than the budget SSD PLUS.
Bought the wd blue 3D ssd from amazon and is working fine so far
Link for anybody who wants to know what ssd I got that is working now WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB Internal PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm, Up to 560 MB/s - WDS100T2B0A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ThHRDb8DGA0PP
Either WD Blue or Crucial MX500
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=1tb+2.5%22+ssd&qid=1572201841&s=electronics&sr=1-9
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-NAND-SATA-Internal/dp/B077SF8KMG/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=1tb+2.5%22+ssd&qid=1572201865&s=electronics&sr=1-10
I went pretty simple. I went with a WD Blue 1TB 3D NAND.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SBQMCX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It's reasonably priced, and you can grab a external case no problem. Now I have two external HDD. One with the games I don't mind a little bit of loading, and one for the core games I play routinely, like Destiny or Witcher 3. The best part of Xbox is being able to have not only multiple drives, but moving games from one to the other quickly and easily.
I was going to get two of these and put them in RAID0 instead of the WD Blue that is on sale but this one is limited to one per customer :/
WD Blue 1TB (for those curious):https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B073SBQMCX
Here's a great deal on a 750W PSU https://www.ebay.com/itm/EVGA-SuperNOVA-750-G1-80-Plus-Gold-750W-10-Year-Warranty-120-GP-0750-X1-/263997881387
Also I think this is a really good price for a 1TB SSD https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SBQMCX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Ok, so this PC build is a little over the $700, coming in about $800-ish after taxes. I did go with a Ryzen 7 due to the benefits of extra cores for graphic design and other workstation tasks that you may be doing in the future. This PC should run the vast majority of 1080p games at Maximum settings and can even handle moderate 1440p gaming. Every component is found on Amazon.
I also went with a more compact, grey design that really makes your build blend in with the desktop environment while still looking beautiful from the outside. The mATX form factor also means that your PC could fit into tight spaces.
Hope you enjoy this build.
CPU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B41717Z/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1GRTT9GHGRY0B&psc=1
GPU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RQ325DW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
RAM: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F6JPLJ2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
SSD: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SBZ8YH/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
HDD: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088PUEPK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
MOBO: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FKV5HWJ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
PSU: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-Modular-Warranty-110-BQ-0600-K1/dp/B01MTJTO2O/ref=sr_1_5?crid=34A5HCFYBJ315&keywords=600%2Bwatt%2Bpower%2Bsupply&qid=1565020347&s=electronics&sprefix=600%2Bw%2Celectronics%2C141&sr=1-5&th=1
CASE: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N99WHP1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
The M6700 is going to use a standard 2.5" laptop hard drive of any capacity. For pretty cheap, you could pick up an SSD. (I grab these ones for work:)[https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-500GB-SSD-WDS500G2B0A/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=500gb+ssd&qid=1563549308&s=gateway&sr=8-4]
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Pop that in, install windows again, and that will be a fantastic machine for what you want to do.
SSDs are like mega cheap right now and I've picked up 500 GB SATA ones for the builds I've done for others. If you're U.S. based this SSD can be had for 65 USD.
Which ones are the MCLs? these are explained as confusing marketing since their 3bit MLC is TLC. Are their SATA SSDs just exactly the same as the Crucial, WD, Adata, Kingston, SanDisk, etc.
Dude. You have an awesome computer. Lemme help you out. Hold please.
ESYNIC Hard Drive Caddy Tray 2.5" 2nd HDD SDD Kit 9.5mm SATA HDD SSD Adapter Optical Bay Drive Slot for MacBook Pro Unibody 13 15 17 SuperDrive DVD Drive Replacement Only https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15ZVKY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tmZJBbN8HT9YN
WD Blue 3D NAND 500GB PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s 2.5"/7mm Solid State Drive - WDS500G2B0A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JnZJBbC2V2VQ5
16GB Memory Kit (2x8GB) for Apple Macbook and Macbook Pro Mid-2012 PC3-12800 1600MHz Ram A1278 A1286 MD101LL/A MD102LL/A MD103LL/A MD104LL/A MD102LL/A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L3QE8G2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_coZJBbSXK3DXV
Samsung SSD warranty has been shit for years.
If anyone's looking for SSD makers with good service, I'd recommend WD. I've done several WD HDD RMAs painlessly and successfully. They're located in the GTA area so you don't have to pay too much for shipping. The turn around time were around 3-5 business days each time.
WD sells NVMe m.2 SSDs as well as SATA in 2.5 form factor and m.2. They are priced better than the Samsungs as well. I don't know too much about long term quality, but so far the reviews for these units are quite good. I personally run a WD Blue m.2 SSD as my game drive/storage. And clarify that I'm not a shill, I use a Samsung EVO 960 512GB as my main boot drive. I'm very happy with my Samsung EVO as well as my WD. I just don't like Samsung's warranty service.
You just swap the internal hard drive with the ssd. It’s about 2mins work to swap it over. There’s an access plate on the back to do it as well. Then you need to download the PS4 firmware onto a usb stick to then install onto the new ssd and that’s it really. Watch a YouTube video on upgrading PS4 to ssd. Simple stuff.
Western Digital WDS500G2B0A WD Blue 3D NAND Internal SSD 2.5 Inch SATA, 500 GB https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_B6S2Cb49E05AG
Yes, the UI will benefit as well. If you are looking for load time improvement absolutely snag an SSD.
I just snagged this guy
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-t5-500gb-external-usb-type-c-portable-solid-state-drive-alluring-blue/6026201.p?skuId=6026201
You may be able to go cheaper or smaller. The Xbox One supposedly only works with drives 256GB and up, but people have reported 250GB drives working just fine.
Your other option would be to get an internal SSD like this one
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-500GB-SSD-WDS500G2B0A/dp/B073SBZ8YH?keywords=ssd&amp;qid=1537845235&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa&amp;psc=1
And nabbing an enclosure like this
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-2-5-inches-SATA-Drive-Enclosure/dp/B01N5RLG2C?crid=2V660C4JJT86R&amp;keywords=2.5+hard+drive+enclosure&amp;qid=1537845347&amp;sprefix=2.5&amp;sr=8-4&amp;ref=mp_s_a_1_4
Could save you a couple bucks
If it's just a hard drive, any run of the mill 2.5" hard drive or SSD will work. They are not proprietary.
It would blaze with this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Western-Digital-WDS500G2B0A-Blue-Internal/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=500gb+ssd&qid=1571859884&sr=8-3
https://support.apple.com/en-ca/HT201608
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Unibody+Model+A1342+Hard+Drive+Replacement/1670
Well the size/speed will entirely depend on your budget. I can make some suggestions, but any SSD I'd recommend would be worlds faster than your current hard drive.
https://www.amazon.ca/Samsung-500GB-Internal-MZ-75E500B-AM/dp/B00OBRE5UE/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527704323&amp;sr=1-4
https://www.amazon.ca/Blue-NAND-500GB-SSD-WDS500G2B0A/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527704323&amp;sr=1-2
https://www.amazon.ca/Kingston-480GB-Solid-SA400S37-480G/dp/B01N0TQPQB/ref=sr_1_10?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527704418&amp;sr=1-10
I'd probably go with them in order - first being highest rated for speed and such. The second is also excellent. The bottom one is slightly slower (Not super noticeable) and MUCH cheaper. Great on a budget.
I've done all these updates/upgrades to my x250.
External batteries and chargers can be found on Amazon easily. For whatever reason the internal ones are all third party. I've use a third party internal battery and it worked fine, but degraded quickly (I'm actually looking to replace it again now). On the charger I like to get a longer cable for the wall to brick part. It's a standard cable you can get for a $8 and I highly recommend it. Link for the longer cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JBDY3GS
For a 16GB memory module, I used the "Mem Store" one from eBay and it works fine. Some places have reported certain memory modules don't work. That one does. It's about ~$80 right now. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Single-16GB-SODIMM-1x16GB-PC3L-12800-Memory-Thinkpad-X250-5TH-GEN-I3-I5-I7-ONLY/191609325156
Laptopscreens.com has a FHD LCD panel that works good. You can also find that seller on eBay. You don't need anything special to do the swap, although a few guitar picks helps to start the bezel. Just be patient when removing the screen bezel so you don't break it. This is the one I got: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-LCD-Screen-for-Lenovo-Thinkpad-X240-X250-00HM745-LP125WF2-SP-B2-IPS-FHD/282811633253
The SSD is pretty straight forward, just get a sata one in your desired capacity and swap it. I personally went for a WD Blue 500GB and it's been great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SBZ8YH
I agree with /u/xcyu SSD and FHD screen will be the most noticeable upgrades.
It's the same price on Amazon too, if anyone prefers: Intel SSD 660p Series (1.0TB M.2 80mm PCIe 3.0 x 4 3D2 QLC) 2 2281" (SSDPEKNW010T8X1 ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GCL6BR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ffKlDbRESY3HJ
Edit: Sorry, totally blanked on the promo code thing.
In your budget range, you should not think about pcie 4 at all. There's very little benefit to having it at this time.
I think your build looks really good.
If you where debating between the 2600 versus the 2600X, know that the 2600 access not only a slightly faster processor, but it comes with a better stock cooler. So it is worth the extra $25 at current prices if the money is not a burden to you.
If you have no more than 500gb of software and media to put on your new computer, then skip the mechanical hard drive for now and get a 1tb m.2 NVME drive for your new computer. https://www.amazon.com/Intel-660p-1-0TB-80mm-978350/dp/B07GCL6BR4/ When/if this drive gets about 75% full, then you can think about what kind of secondary drive you want to add next. This m.2 drive will plug into the motherboard, no cables at all.
Word yea I mean just grab 2 of these. Haven’t heard anyone say burn games in so long lol
Get two of these. Save the headache I the case of the extra wires. Also they are smaller and easy to store
LG Electronics 8X USB 2.0 Super Multi Ultra Slim Portable DVD Writer Drive +/-RW External Drive with M-DISC Support (Black) GP65NB60 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ODDE33U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2yvxDbZF4FD3G
Also swap one of your ssds out with this it’s faster and again less cables
Intel SSD 660p Series (1.0TB M.2 80mm PCIe 3.0 x 4 3D2 QLC) 2 2281" (SSDPEKNW010T8X1 ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GCL6BR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bBvxDbRA6WFB8
Same price on Amazon: https://www.amazon.ca/Intel-660p-1-0TB-80mm-978350/dp/B07GCL6BR4
Looks good. I'm +1 with everyone else who has said 'SSD' with the caveat of choosing a better SSD than the one you have chosen in system builder. The 860 is a SATAIII drive and at 500gb will fill with modern games fast.
If budget is an issue, I'd go this route instead.
(Newegg) https://www.newegg.com/intel-660p-series-1tb/p/N82E16820167462?cm_sp=SearchSuccess-_-INFOCARD-_-intel+660+ssd-_-20-167-462-_-1&Description=intel+660+ssd
or (Amazon) https://smile.amazon.com/Intel-660p-1-0TB-80mm-SSDPEKNW010T8X1/dp/B07GCL6BR4/ref=dp_ob_title_def
The Intel 660p (1tb) is not the fastest NVME drive by any metric but its still 3 times faster than any SATAIII based drive. Plus the extra room is well worth the extra +$20 dollars it would cost.
Again, everything else looks fine, especially if you already have a monitor/KB/mouse and OS. Good luck!
Intel 660p M.2 NVme SSD for $94.99
Great value and performance with 1024GB of storage.
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-660p-1-0TB-80mm-978350/dp/B07GCL6BR4
The computer with the best memory used during WWII (that I could find after just a few minutes of searching) was the Collossus, with around 6kB of data. The Z3 is the largest German computer and is just a little bit behind, but still rounds out to around 6kB. Here is an image of it next to a human:
http://www.rtd-net.de/Z3.html
Assuming the human is 6' tall, the computer has approximate dimensions: 6' x 6' (there are two cabinets) x 1'.
If we stack the computers so they are flat against each other (the closest linear packing we can achieve) we get 20,000 miles / 1' = 106 million Zune Z3 databanks. This works out to approximate 600 gigabytes of data. This would fit in the horribly expensive, one terrabyte Kingston Datatraveler:
http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-DataTraveler-Predator-1TB-DTHXP30/dp/B00E65QM8O
So... yes.
UNLESS we can put computers side-by-side. (20,000 miles is a unit of length, not volume). This Scientific American article puts the human brain data storage at approximately 2.5 petabytes (2*10^15 bytes):
http://www.scientificamerican.com/article/what-is-the-memory-capacity/?page=1
If we put the Zune Z3 databanks in 4000 "columns" (for a total width of 4.6 miles) we can fit 2.5 petabytes, which is significantly more than any modern flash drive.
In fact, storing the 2.5 petabytes on a single system would require the 20 pB Titan supercomputer that debuted 2 years ago:
http://www.cnet.com/pictures/titan-supercomputer-debuts-with-20-petabyte-performance-pictures/
TL;DR: Yes if it is a single file column of machines, no if you actually have enough machines to store a human brain (which is 4.6 miles wide x 20,000 miles long).
Well, here's what I found on amazon. For the low low price of $915 (on sale from $2,310, so you know it's a heck of a steal!), one of these puppies can be yours!
Though, still not quite 2TB.
I very much want one of these... some day I'll give one to myself as a birthday present or something, but until then I really can't justify the cost.
edit: better yet, one of these
It can be done.
like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-DataTraveler-Predator-1TB-DTHXP30/dp/B00E65QM8O
~50k
Sure looks like a scam. The biggest flash drive I found on Amazon is 1TB from Kingston selling for US$879
We're close!
Not on Amazon anyway:
http://camelcamelcamel.com/Kingston-DataTraveler-Predator-1TB-DTHXP30/product/B00E65QM8O
I've been really happy with my Seagate 2TB External. Small form factor. Not bad on price, either.
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Backup-Portable-External-STDR2000101/dp/B00FRHTTIA/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1475029223&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=2tb+external+hard+drive
The 2tb is really really easy, don't let anyone scare you. A member of this subreddit even made a video of the process. Basically you take a screwdriver and pry the plastic enclosure open, then cut some tape. Voila! 2tb hdd.
I did it myself last weekend
The drive:
Seagate Backup Plus Slim 2TB Portable External Hard Drive with Mobile Device Backup USB 3.0 (Silver) STDR2000101 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FRHTTIA/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_fLpUtb1GFPRXF3F2
If that is the case, I recommend the Seagate backup plus slim: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FRHTTIA
You wont be able to self-assemble a cheaper drive of that capacity. A 2TB portable SSD is going to run you about $170 at minimum.
Here is the one I ordered. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FRHTTIA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Unfortunately its not on sale anymore. They go on sale for like $89 every once in a while. Its usually all over this sub when it does.
EDIT: Here is one! http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-STBX2000401-2-5-Inch-Portable/dp/B00ILALU9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415996674&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=2.5%22+external+2tb
i changed my internal HDD to this model (pop case and take out HDD), if your going for an external HDD could be worth your while going for the max amount of space you can get 6tb+
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Backup-Portable-External-STDR2000101/dp/B00FRHTTIA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496755577&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=seagate+2+tb+slim
Its a Seagate and I didnt lose any data. You just plug it in and it is added to the storage you have and you can choose wether the data is stored in the external or internal drive. The only issue is that data could possibly corrupt if say your ps was on rest mode and your power went out. But my power has gone out several times and I haven’t had issues
I used this one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FRHTTIA/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_gO62tb16RZ1S4
And I followed these instructions:
http://imgur.com/a/JF5jA
I think this is the best way to go about it because it lets you use you 500GB HD from your PS4 as an external hard drive. Instructions are also very easy to follow.
look for the seagate slim drive. seagate slim. http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Backup-Portable-External-STDR2000101/dp/B00FRHTTIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417734771&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=seagate+slim
http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Backup-Portable-External-STDR2000101/dp/B00FRHTTIA/ref=lp_595048_1_12?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451191062&amp;sr=1-12
To add to /u/zttz's reply, also avoid the 2.5" WD "portable" drives, as they have the same issue in his 'avoid' section. No SATA connector -- the PCB on these drives has the USB connector directly attached, and there is no way (that I've ever seen) to convert them.
Not sure if these will be available in Canadia-land, but this is the specific drive I've purchased / shucked for use in a 4-in-one hot swap cage. I picked up a couple of them, and if I recall correctly, they were in the 9mm height range...
I'm told the 4TB and 5TB drives are 15mm, but I've not purchased any of those...
Hard drive:
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Backup-Portable-External-STDR2000101/dp/B00FRHTTIA/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479694142&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=external+hard+drive&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_two_browse-bin%3A7817230011
I don't have this exact model, but I've been using Seagate hard drives for years, they never let me down.
As for games, Life is Strange, Metro Redux Bundle, Tomb Raider: Definitive Edition, Wolfenstein: The New Order and Wolfenstein: The Old Blood are very good and cheap games.
Here is the link for the 1.5tb hard drive:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDIU5IW
here is the link to the hard drive hard drive:
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822178340
Here is the link to the biggest hard drive you can put in your PS4:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FRHTTIA/ref=s9_psimh_gw_p147_d1_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=center-2&amp;pf_rd_r=0B846C3Z89RZEA42MNEE&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=1688200382&amp;pf_rd_i=507846
You have to open the 2tb case because samsung doesn't sell the hard drive alone.
I just bought this drive off the Prime deal, which ends up being a few dollars cheaper and also comes with the external enclosure that you can then put your stock HDD into. Does anyone know if the FireCuda drive is significantly better, that I should cancel my order and get this instead? I would think the drives should perform similarly if not limited by USB, but I'll gladly hear out anyone with real world experience on the subject
I got this and shucked it to upgrade my PS4 internal hard drive to 2 TB
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FRHTTIA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and as an added bonus I put the PS2 original drive in the casing so now i have plenty of storage on my console and a little extra in the USB drive.
There's this. Pretty good price to.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FRHTTIA/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_35?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Seagate Backup Plus Slim 2TB Portable External Hard Drive with Mobile Device Backup USB 3.0 (Silver) STDR2000101
cheaper than any other new drive, and I can reuse the enclosure.
gotcha. I got a mid-length rack at first thinking it would be enough. It doesn't even fit the "dell sliding rails", though it fits those rails I linked, it just means a full-depth server is longer than the rack.
So, TLDR, get a full length/adjustable rack like this.
Or put it on a shelf or the floor, it's homelab :)
Looks like it's the StarTech 12U
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Open-Frame-Server-Rack/dp/B00P1RJ9LS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=startech+12u&qid=1568679406&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Are those full depth or just switch depth?
This is a comparable Trip Lite enclosure for 12U 32inch depth(which is mid depth and not the full 36 like this one) I can't find any full enclosure new for under $450. Even the open 4 post ones are $200 range normally.
Amazon Rack 4 post, Comes in a flat pack and worth every $ent ! https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Open-Frame-Server-Rack/dp/B00P1RJ9LS/ref=sxin_3_ac_d_pm?ac_md=4-0-VW5kZXIgJDMwMA%3D%3D-ac_d_pm&keywords=Server+rack&pd_rd_i=B00P1RJ9LS&pd_rd_r=c9575c95-0ec3-4981-8fe7-62c414e7fbc5&pd_rd_w=T51LV&pd_rd_wg=01wPv&pf_rd_p=24d053a8-30a1-4822-a2ff-4d1ab2b984fc&pf_rd_r=D1EJ7W126SPPQ742TCYF&psc=1&qid=1572889682
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P1RJ9LS/
at that size you are very limited.
At your price range you are looking for the Startech 12u
And it looks like you get a black friday deal at Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Open-Frame-Server-Rack/dp/B00P1RJ9LS
Here you go
Here's the one I bought.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00P1RJ9LS/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I was trying to buy something local for cheaper but I couldn't find anything this small. I was getting sick of taking up space on the shelves so I just bit the bullet. It was more than I wanted to spend but I'm glad I did. Things are so much cleaner.
I got this one. Drops to around $100 occasionally. 4 TB gives much more needed space.
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Backup-Portable-External-STDR4000100/dp/B00ZTRXFBA/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485355242&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=4tb%2Bexternal%2Bhard%2Bdrive&amp;th=1
I've had two toshiba externals for about 2 years and recently picked up two seagate externals (all 2.5" ranging from 1TB to 4TB).
I haven't seen/experienced any issues with them. My one seagate 4TB acts as my photo dump drive when I travel. I've treated it pretty rough since I take it while camping and backpacking.
As far as software goes, check out Qiling. This will allow you to configure your backups however you want. You can do specific folders or entire images.
I don't use much in terms of backup software. I just have batch files setup in Task Scheduler to run and do file backups for me. I don't worry about images since I can rebuild my system fairly quickly.
I'd recommend running a 3-2-1 system if you really want to be good with backups. 3 total backups, 2 on-site, 1 off-site (in-case of fire, flood, burglary, etc). Backblaze is a great online solution.
I've successfully used/tested a SanDisk 256GB, Seagate 1TB & Seagate 4TB drives, none with their own power source & all via OTG.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZTRXFBA This Seagate drive is $59 and much better quality. It uses a 1TB 5400rpm Seagate drive so still slow but much more reliable. I'd rather use it than the Transcend one.
i happened to have the 4tb version of this:
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Portable-External-Photography-STDR4000100/dp/B00ZTRXFBA
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works well in all the ports on the dock, bus powered so extra power supply to mess with. Using exFat and seeing all 4tb with sx os 2.2.1 beta. write speed is only like 122 MB/s, but that's fine for me.
I don't have an R610, but I do have an R710 SFF. Here's my plan for storage. One 500GB SSD for VM storage (~$100) Then filling up the rest with 4TB ST4000LM016 that can be removed from these (~$110)
My R710 already has an H700, but you can also get an H200 is you want to do software raid. I'll probably be switching to an H200 eventually, but the H700 is fine for now.
As far as storage, the limiting factor is going to be the Perc 6i. Upgrade that first, then you should be able to get a decent amount of storage on there.
You have usb 3.0/3.1 ports so that'll work fine. I'll assume you're American.
Here's a couple of basic recommendations;
If price is no issue then this is probably your best bet.
This for more capacity and better price but slower performance.
However look around and check the specs and find something that fits your budget.
Trying to choose between this drive, and the Backup Plus, and this WD Blue. All are 4 TB, and will be used in my desktop (I'll remove the enclosure if I get the Backup Plus).
What do you guys suggest?
This one: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00ZTRXFBA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484318624&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=seagate+4tb&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31D6-C4d5NL&amp;ref=plSrch
Just took it out of it's enclosure and plugged the cable in, then put the 1tb drive in the enclosure and now have a 1tb portable drive.
It does actually fit internally but I didn't like the amount of heat and I thought it'd do better plugged in using a cable and now I can easily swap the drive if need be.
I used this Seagate Backup Plus 4TB Portable External Hard Drive from Amazon. You rip it open and use the drive from inside the case.
I followed this guide. http://www.rosswalker.co.uk/tivo_upgrade/#BOLT
Exactly. You're saving space in a tower build that already has plenty of room for 2.5" drives. The M2 2280 drives are still SATA III drives and have read/write/access times all very similar to current SSD's and offer no benefit other than space.
However the new NVMe drives have a PCIe bus (I believe?! I'm not super sure), but I know that their speeds far surpass current SSD's by a great margin. The issue is whether or not you'll truly be able to tell the difference. An SSD is already significantly faster than an HDD, this we know, but I can't tell you real world differences that you'll notice on an NVMe drives vs. a SATA III connected SSD. That may warrant some extra reading on your part to see if the price difference is worth it to you.
But just checking Amazon you can find plenty of results, but it seems like the Sammy pro's are the way to go.
I do agree 256 is pretty useless for what i do too. I really cant tell if its worth it or not cause both are great. I'm not sure how advanced you used windows, but in the power options you can limit the CPU usage to 99% and it almost completely takes care of the fan speed going up for no reason on the 2015 model. If the extra money on a new one isn't too big of a deal i would do that over used but thats just me.
You can't put in a second SSD cause there is only one slot, but what i did for the 2015 model i used to have is i just got one of these and never ran out of storage again. https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Solid-State-Drive-SD8SN8U-1T00-1122/dp/B0194MV300/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474683831&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=1tb+m.2+sata+ssd
if you do go with the 2016 Blade you will need the newer type of SSD like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-PRO-Internal-MZ-V5P512BW/dp/B01639694M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474683889&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=nvme+1tb
I went with the PCIE NVME M.2 SSD 512 GB from Samsung. Here is the Amazon link. It seems really fast as I am using it as the OS drive. I had no firmware issues or BIOS issues. It just showed up in the BIOS. I did update the BIOS of P50 beforehand. Please note ... you do need the M.2 tray. I found mine at CDW for about $14 each. I received it about three days after ordering.
Regarding the middle button on the bottom of the trackpad ... I am not really sure what it does. However, when I click it my cursor turns to a circle with a dot in the middle with the four arrows pointing in directions of the compass. Wish I could get a screenshot of it.
Not even sure what's up with your form:
> Do you prefer a 2 in 1 form factor, good battery life or best specifications to your requirements for the money? Pick or include any that apply.
>Best Requirements
Wtaf man. GET IT TOGETHER CHARLIE.
> Do you have a preferred screen size? If indifferent, put N/A.
>Look at last question
Last question says you prefer Windows..
I get the feeling this question is a troll but nevertheless, I'm going to give you a nice answer.
Programming doesn't usually require a hardware intensive machine, it doesn't need a GPU or a
penisvery powerful CPU but since you asked for such a high budget laptop in which weight doesn't matter I'm going to offer you a high-budget laptop and a low-budget laptop. The high budget lappy will last you approx 6 years and the low budget will last you 4 years approx.I shall, from this point onwards, assign nicknames to the laptops:
1500 USD ASUS ROG G751JY-VS71(WX) shall now be called "That popular fat guy in college"
The 800 USD Dell Inspiron 15 7599 shall be called "good guy greg" because it's great value.
Processor: Both of these guys have incredibly powerful processors but note that a high end notebook processor is equal to a mid-range gaming processor. The fatty can easily spit out 2.6 GHz with it's i7-4720HQ however the good guy can push out a very respectable 2.3 GHz with it's powerful i5 6300HQ.
I want to give you a tip, NEVER buy a laptop based on it's processor solely. Most people are fooled buy the fact that one processor is an i7 and the other is an i5, well here's a fact, the most powerful model of the i7 can push out only 3% more than the most powerful i5.
Both of these processors can run heavily processor intensive games like "Total war: Warhammer" and can compile code equally fast because the algorithm is usually bottle-necked.
Graphics Card: They both have very powerful graphics cards but the fatty wins this battle hands down. It comes with a Nvidia GTX 980M which has 1536 CUDA cores, versus the good guy which only has approx 640 CUDA cores, respectable but the 960M is no match. VRAM is not a limiting factor, in either of them, the only game that requires more than 4 GB of VRAM is The Witcher 3, which can still be run at high and only consumes about 3 GB. Even GTA V only requires 3.8 GB at it's highest settings. Both of these can run Overwatch at max with 50-60 FPS, though the 980M can probably push out 80 FPS.
The fatty is definitely much better in this regard if you plan on doing very hardcore gaming.
Storage: I know for a fact that coders lover SSD's, the good guy comes with a pre-installed 256 GB M.2 SSD, M.2 SSD's are some of the most powerful SSD's and 256 GB is more than enough. The ASUS (popular fatty) has an optional SSD slot, goes upto 512 GB in both of the laptops. You can get a 256 GB M.2 SSD for 200 USD or a 512 GB M.2 SSD for 320 USD.
When getting an SSD only opt for Samsung, they make the best SSD's with 0 flaws.
Other than that they both have 1000 GB HDD's (no, not 1024) but that should be plenty.
RAM: NEVER BUY A LAPTOP BASED ON RAM YOU FUCKING DIMWIT, IT'S UP-GRADABLE. JESUS CHRIST.
But yeah they both have DDR3 RAM. The ASUS has 16 GB while the Dell has 8 GB
Screen size: Coders ALWAYS prefer large screens so I got the ASUS with it's 17.3 inch 1080p display, you know the ladies love a big screen ;), though the dell has a comfortable 15.6 inch 1080p screen. But as a coder I think you will prefer a large display.
Extra: The dell has thunderbolt 3
Sorry if I hurt your feelings during the review. Pansy.
Youtube videos you should watch:
[SSD's vs HDD's](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQEjGKYXjw8)
[CPU vs GPU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kypaBjJ-pg)
[i3 vs i5 vs i7**](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLSPub4ydiM)
Good luck.
Awesome, I love the audio upgrade! Don't really need the type C connector
yetso this is a great trade off. Thanks!! I noticed that the Sniper has an M.2 connector. Would you recommend a NVMe? Looks like 4x-5x the real world read/write speeds and only 2x the price. You've saved me money from not wasting on an OCing battlestation, so would this be the best upgrade value? (instead of my 850 EVO for my OS/C: drive?)M.2 is CAPABLE of performing faster, but the one you pointed out performs identically to the SATA version. You don't see the speed unless you buy the ones with NVMe (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01639694M/ref=psdc_1292116011_t2_B00TGIW1XG), or even the "slower" 2.0 ones (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V01C376/ref=psdc_1292116011_t3_B00TGIVZTW)
Also, the SATA has a 5 year warranty while the M.2 only has a 3 year warranty. So if the performance and price is pretty much identical, the SATA would be the ideal one to buy as a normal OS drive.
M.2 is still a niche IMO. Yes, it's ridiculously fast and expensive, but you won't utilize the full potential if all you're going to do is boot Windows and load games. Video editing, post-processing, etc. is where you can see the benefits of M.2.
Maybe instead of a SATA SSD, have a look at PCIE NVMe drive
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-PRO-Internal-MZ-V5P512BW/dp/B01639694M/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467750072&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=samsung+960+500
And a 1TB WD Black
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Performance-Desktop-Hard-Drive/dp/B00FJRS6FU/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467750110&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=1tb++black
Usually everything loads instantly for me, maybe 5-10 seconds for certain things. I reccomend a samsung ssd.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01639694M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_qG7DzbGGYTRBY
this is what I have but I think they have newer+cheaper options like the 960 evo. STRONGLY reccomend not buying a cheapo brand ssd.
found this page on the NZXT site. It details the radiator space in your case.
You can mount the fury x radiator as your rear exhaust fan (it's a 120 mm radiator/fan) with zero issues, and the top of the case has more than enough room for your H100i. I am confident you will not have problems fitting both coolers in your case. If you're crafty enough, you can even put both coolers on just the top of your case (it has 3 120 mm fan radiator support). It's what I'm currently doing with my case; dual 120 mm cpu fan radiator and fury x radiator on top. This allows me to put the second fury x radiator in the rear exhaust spot. Be aware, AMD recommends mounting the fury x radiator above the card, so don't mount it on the front or bottom of the case.
Be careful with that parts list though, the 1409 total is quoting the fury x at zero dollars. It's ~650 on amazon, so expect to pay a bit over 2k for everything you have (remember to calculate tax, it's serious at these prices).
One last note, the performance increase from the 6700k over the 4790k is not huge (little less than 5%, and a 4790k will not be the bottle neck of your pc for gaming). If you need to save a couple hundred, get the 4790k (~70 dollars cheaper), 16 GB of DDR3 RAM (~70 dollars cheaper), and a compatible motherboard. Depending on the features you need, the mobo could be a bit cheaper as well. You might seriously consider getting the 4790k set up and spending that difference in cash on a M.2 solid state drive. The single fastest solid state M.2 on the consumer market is about 200 dollars more than your current SSD. Compare the two here and here. The 850 EVO has a mixed seq. read/write speed of 430 MB/s (which is great, don't get me wrong), while the 950 M.2 has a mixed seq. read/write speed of 1,574 MB/s.
If you're uneasy about your build, spend more time researching it and wait to buy it until you're 100% certain. The computer you have listed there will run, and everything will fit inside your case. Make sure you buy windows 10 on a USB since it looks like you didn't include a cd/dvd drive bay in your parts list (which is ok, I don't have one either).
If you have 8GB of RAM, I would just get a video card and a NVMe SSD.
It appears that your board will work with this M.2 adapter and matching M.2(M) drives.
Lycom DT-120, PCIe 3.0 x4 Host Adapter for M.2 NGFF PCIe SSD
Samsung 950 Pro MZ-V5P512BW 512GB M.2 2280 NVMe PCIe 3.0X4 SSD
By not buying the unneeded system upgrade, you can get the much more powerful GTX 1070. The GTX1070 is going to feel faster now, and last longer then the 1060 would have.
MSI GeForce GTX 1070 GAMING X 8G Video Card 8GB GDDR5
Your SSD will be faster and will be in the right shape for next-gen systems. These parts will go into your 6-core Coffee Lake system in 2018.
> When you say PCIe SSD do you mean those small flash ones that connect on an m2 port?
An m.2 port can be both. Either SATA or PCIe. For example the Samsung 850 Evo m.2 SSD is an m.2 SATA SSD. The more expensive 950/960 Pro or Evo series are m.2 PCIe SSDs. Just be aware that not every m.2 port is compatible with PCIe SSDs. The m.2 port needs a PCIe controller to support PCIe SSDs, otherwise they won't be recognized (same goes for SATA SSDs).
> Also should I have my OS running of the SSD if i have both HDD and SSD or just the files and editing software
Yes, the OS, your editing software and the project you're currently working on should be on the SSD to speed things up. If you done with editing, you can move the finished project to the HDD.
Issues I've found were...
I also have the best everything, fresh install, game is also on a 950 Pro which also houses the pagefile along with 32GB of RAM.
All drivers are up to date from chipset to graphics. So with that said, I can't think of any other issue other than a server side problem. Let's hope Wildcard can finally give a clear understanding as to what's going on and why these complications are coming up.
From my understanding the drive needs to be PCIE itself to get the faster speeds, its not just a different adapter. If you notice, some m.2 drives are way more expensive than others, those ones are generally the PCIE drives. The PCIE m.2 drives look different at the end, though they still fit into any m.2 slot, the 'key' pattern is different.
My motherboard actually only supports PCIE drives, even though the sata ones also fit into the same slot no problem, which is how i found out theres a difference. this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01639694M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 is an example of what a PCIE drive looks like.
I am running my Roms off a 128gb USB drive. It's a feature they added official support for a few weeks ago. USB drives are cheaper than SD cards, and it keeps your games separate from your setup, which makes things easier if you need something up and need to reinstall or something like that.
https://github.com/RetroPie/RetroPie-Setup/wiki/Running-ROMs-from-a-USB-drive
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017DH3O5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_uhpHyb45WQ99Y
Prepare for this post to be removed, they have pretty strict rules.
Anyway, I would recommend these 2:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-128GB-Flash-MUF-128BB-AM/dp/B017DH3O5A
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-128GB-METAL-MUF-128BA-AM/dp/B017DH3NOW
If you have a little more cash to splash I would add some sort of USB storage into your build. Even if you don't have a ton of roms (PS1 or Dosbox or DC), adding roms back onto your SD card if something goes wrong is a time consuming and obnoxious thing. Plus you won't lose your saves if using a USB.
In summation, I like having the game files/metadata and the RetroPie data separate.
Edit: I don't have it, but I've seen this USB recommended often.
I went with a really fast USB3 thumb drive--kinda the best of both worlds.
Your R/W speeds are going to be significantly slower with a microSD card compared to a USB3 thumbdrive or SSD. I chose this thumbdrive over the SSD because it's physically smaller than an SSD+powered adapter.
It's worked fabulously for me so far. It's plugged directly into the back of the Shield where it's 100% unnoticeable, and if I need to use more than 1 USB port for anything else I can always plug a hub into the remaining USB port.
But I would definitely go with either a USB thumbdrive or SSD over a microSD.
You can get one of these to double your storage space: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-128GB-Flash-MUF-128BB-AM/dp/B017DH3O5A
But seriously, get 256GB if you can afford it.
I've been using the Samsung 128GB for a few months with zero problems and no overheating.
I don't know that you're going to have luck with changing the SSD.
I bought a Samsung 128GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive for $41 that's the size of my thumbnail to permanently leave in my Samsung Chromebook 3.
That's where I installed GalliumOS. I definitely notice the occasional hangs because of it, but I wanted to leave my ChromeOS disk alone.
For $197, I fucking love this machine.
The Samsung Fit Drive doesn't get hot unless it's under heavy load, unlike the other options in the same form factor. Micro SD cards are another matter though. Like others have said, the one on the WIN reads slowly, and goes to sleep when it doesn't think it's being used, so you'll want to use a program that keeps it awake if you want to store games on it or something. It will decrease your card's lifetime a little though.
I guess some people don't have the storage for it? Or they want the assurance that they still have their games without hassle of re-claiming their account if something happens to their system? Some people also have slow internet.
For me, storage isn't an issue. I have a physically tiny 128gb flash drive inserted in my Wii U, which gives me plenty of storage.. and it wasn't exactly expensive, check the link to see.
Not only should it likely load faster from that than a disk, because it's essentially Solid State, but I don't have to wait for a shop to open up to pick up a physical copy, nor wait for the ridiculously slow delivery services in my area to bring me my package sometime in the late afternoon or evening. With any luck, I should be able to play Friday morning, unless the download servers are simply too bogged down.. that's why I'm kinda hoping for a pre-load.
I'm using a 128GB Samsung Fit, which is pretty low profile. It doesn't stick out as far as a wireless mouse dongle.
The only reason i'm using it over an SD card is that it's 128GB, and the largest SD card I have is 16GB.
I could pick up a similarly sized SD card for about $50 (which is about half the cost of the machine I'd be putting it into, lol) if it would perform better. I wasn't sure that there would be much performance difference on this hardware and I already had the stick, so that's what I planned to go with.
Read the first question in "Customer Questions & Answers":
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-128GB-Flash-MUF-128BB-AM/dp/B017DH3O5A/ref=sr_1_1
I got a 128GB Samsung Fit USB to compensate for the small SSD. No complaints so far.
I am using the MSI B450I and can confirm that it is working just fine with a non beta, stable bios. In fact, for the ITX boards the beta bios was working alright for me long before other boards were working well (looking at you Asus). The only downside is you need it flashed if you don't already have an older zen CPU.
I helped a friend build with the Gigabyte X570 and it's working just fine as well, it's a really great board. However, keep in mind you could really save some money and get the MSI board. Also, in terms of VRM's is the best you can buy. The fact that it just plain works (once you update the bios), is an added bonus considering how new everything is.
Concerning GPU, if you are willing to wait until next month, you will be able to buy open air coolers from other manufacturers. I don't have a 580, but my understanding is that it's fine. However, the 5700xt is much more powerful. I imagine that an open air Gaming X version from MSI will run basically silent. I'm sure other brands will produce silent amazing cards as well.
For memory, consider getting some Micron E-die, they overclock VERY well, and are only ~1mm taller than the LPX you have listed. Mine are running at 3600 cl 16 via MSI's "Memory Try It!" functionality. Basically, it's a single button overclock on your memory so you don't have to do it yourself. It's rock solid stable too.
Finally, concerning the NVME drive you have listed, it's 100% true that Samsung makes amazingly fast NVME drives and are arguably the best you can buy. However, are you really going to notice fractional seconds of load time over say a 1 or 2TB intel 660p? I'm currently running the 2TB 660p that I got for $200, and you can get a 1TB model for $95. That's double the space, for essentially the same performance. I understand the Samsung numbers are much higher, but those only really apply to specific applications like heavy database I/O. For day to day users and gaming, you won't be able to tell the difference. If you really want the 970 Evo because you want it, go for it, buy what you want. If you want more space for effectively the same performance, buy the 660p, I can confirm that it flies, and is amazing. I am so happy I bought it over the Samsung, because I have double the space for the same price and effectively the same speed.
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Hope this was helpful, and enjoy your Dan Case, it's an amazing case.
Your CDI pic is currently just your timestamp again and like someone else pointed out, the going rate is a quite bit lower:
https://www.newegg.com/intel-660p-series-1tb/p/N82E16820167462
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-660p-1-0TB-80mm-978350/dp/B07GCL6BR4
Edit: Saw edit. Makes more sense for 2TB.
Its on Amazon both 512gb and 1Tb https://www.amazon.com/Intel-660p-1-0TB-80mm-978350/dp/B07GCL6BR4/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?keywords=Intel+660p+Series+M.2+2280+512GB+PCI-Express+3.0&amp;qid=1549691597&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-2-fkmr0
One thing I'm noticing is the non-modular PSU. I would look at getting something that is fully modular, or even semi-modular. It's just easier to work with and I think easier to mantain better cord management.
For the CPU, I would take a look at the 9400 not the 9400F. As far as I can tell, at least in the states, the 9400 is the same price, it's just slightly faster and a bit newer.
The SSD - the 750 Evo seems more expensive than what it's worth. I would take a look at an NVMe drive like the Intel 660p. For 1TB of space, your getting something that is much MUCH faster and, at least in the states, is only $4 more expensive:
Intel SSD 660p Series https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GCL6BR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_85L2CbQP2JY6Y
Then, this way, if you get the faster Intel SSD, you can ditch the HDD, because you'll have 1TB as a boot drive and storage, most likely saving another $50 as well.
EDIT: Also, it seems like the case you're looking at is a full-ATX (correct me if I'm wrong) so then why are you going for a mATX board? You could get something a bit faster, better with cooling, and probably cheaper if you got a full-sized board like this one:
MSI Performance Gaming B360 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CBKQ75V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_agM2CbBWA8CJP
Same price in the USA as the board you've chosen.
Edit 2: Also, I can't find the PSU anywhere come to think of it. Don't buy a used PSU, that is one of the general no-nos, because those things deteriorate over time, what you think is a 500W is possibly only 350W to 400W. Stick with EVGA or Corsair even SeaSonic.
I gotta ask how long ago you bought an NVMe M.2 SSD, because currently, an NVMe M.2 SSd is virtually the same price as a SATA SSD.
Crucial MX500 SSD 1TB, the most common sata SSD I see recommended around here; $129.
Intel 660p SSD 1TB, the most commonly recommended consumer NVMe SSD; $109, with triple of the speed of the MX500.
It feels like a lot of people around here built their computers 6+ months ago and haven't checked the prices since; NVMe SSDs certainly used to carry a price premium, but these days they are barely any different.
SSDs can be made with different types of NAND flash. The EVO uses TLC NAND, and the QVC uses QLC NAND. QLC is slower, and has worse endurance. TLC is not top shelf, but better than QLC.
However, you probably won't notice a speed difference unless you're a video editor or have some other super heavy workload. Likewise, the endurance issue is not really going to be a problem for a normal user. Get the cheaper QVO unless you're editing 8k video all day every day.
Or better yet, get the 1tb Intel 660p for $109. It's QLC like the QVO, but uses the nVME connection, which is a faster than than SATA. An nVME QLC drive will be faster than a SATA TLC drive, as SATA is a bottleneck (one of the reasons why the QVO and EVO are so similar, the speed of SATA is a limiting factor). It also regularly goes on sale for around $95 .
But if you're editing 8k video you'd probably want to upgrade to higher end SSD like SX8200 Pro or 970 EVO (but they're roughly 2x the cost)
The Adaata XPG SX8200 1TB is a good balance of performance/cost: https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23/
Review: https://www.anandtech.com/show/13112/the-adata-sx8200-gammix-s11-nvme-ssd-review
May be slightly over your £100 limit depending on the sale.
https://www.newegg.com/samsung-970-evo-plus-500gb/p/N82E16820147742
Link is just an example, but it's a solid drive. They go on sale occasionally. Doesn't get much more simple than that, no need for the two sata cables. It slides into a slot and is held down by a screw. The 500GB will hold your OS and a fair amount of games for around $100. I have a 250GB I use as a boot drive in one computer. In another I have this (again just for reference. Quite a bit cheaper than the Samsung and also well reviewed.
Then you can always add more drives at a later time if need be. You can link most game clients to different locations for games. So it won't matter for that.
Edit: Someone just posted this 500GB NVME drive for $50. Your board has two NVME slots it looks like. As long as you aren't planning on doing SLI or something crazy you'd have 1TB of storage for $100+ tax. Or do the logical thing and pay the $10 more for the 1TB version.
This is probably the best price to performance NVME SSD you cant get atm: https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23
Edit: I do NOT use affiliate links.
The Dell Precision 7530 (15") and 7730 (17") (also consider the newer 7540 and 7740) should fit your needs quite well as their processors are a big step up from the i5-4200M in your former laptop (better architecture and process node, more cores). They can also probably handle virtual instrument workloads at lower-than-usual buffers. Since they are business laptops their reliability is above average -- and oh, you get a fingerprint reader too!
This 17-inch Precision 7730 on Amazon should serve you well with a healthy amount of storage to start you up and three spare NVMe SSD slots waiting for you to populate. Also consider this 15-inch Precision 7530 on Amazon with two spare NVMe slots.
If stock runs out, you can always order from Dell:
17" 7730 and 7740 (newer)15" 7530 and 7540 (newer)
Some options to prioritize:
The xx40 models offer newer 9th gen Intel processors, which don't really make much of a difference when compared to 8th gen (unless you want to get a Core i9 -- a 9th gen i9 has eight cores while an 8th gen i9 has six).
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-500GB-Ultra-NAND-SATA/dp/B072R78B6Q/ref=sxin_4_ac_d_pm?keywords=sandisk+ssd&pd_rd_i=B072R78B6Q&pd_rd_r=6e48913a-82f5-47ee-a878-bba6330f0011&pd_rd_w=ouwib&pd_rd_wg=eDL6g&pf_rd_p=64aaff2e-3b89-4fee-a107-2469ecbc5733&pf_rd_r=9ZFFWMG7WH4XJZZRQ87D&qid=1563622854&s=gateway my ssd. Marginally (almost certainly not noticeably) faster speeds, but it's a trusted brand.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-500GB-Internal-MZ-76E500B-AM/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=870+evo&qid=1563623512&s=gateway&sr=8-1 Arguably the best SATA SSD you can buy, and is very reasonably priced. Well trusted, better technology than off-brand gives better random seek times etc. Definitely worth having. Maybe 10% faster in general than yours or mine
https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=adata+nvme&qid=1563623699&s=gateway&sr=8-1 The best bang for your buck if you're taking the next step up into the NVME world MAKE SURE YOUR BOARD HAS THE SLOT FOR IT. roughly 7 times the speeds of the first two ssd mentioned. Significantly higher price per gig
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-Plus-MZ-V7S1T0B/dp/B07MFZY2F2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=970+evo+pro+plus&qid=1563624021&s=gateway&sr=8-1 The flagship. Everybody seems to need one. Marginally better than the previous mention in reality. YOU WILL NOT NOTICE A DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE TWO UNLESS YOU ARE SPECIFICALLY TESTING THEM.
This thread is about month old so not sure if I'll get a response.
I bought this M.2 Drive for my secondary drive and it did not work. It either would not load windows from the primary after installation or the disk manager would not detect even if the BIOS did. What makes it different than the Crucial M.2 or the Sabrent both which have been claimed to work?
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I'm pretty much having this exact issue.
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EDIT: I returned the ADATA drive and bought the Sabrent. The Sabrent worked fine when I restarted my computer once after the installation.
Just to give you a heads up, your SX8200 Pro link got eaten by the spam filter. In the future, posting links without the URL suffix that contains search information will avoid the problem. Example:
> https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23
Cheers!
i want to buy the nvme for windows 10 and for some games
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so which is better?
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which is better from these 2? and which is faster?
https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-1TB-MZ-V7E1T0BW/dp/B07BN217QG
This SSD sits between a 970 Evo and 970 Pro.
ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1TB 3D NAND NVMe Gen3x4 PCIe M.2 2280 Solid State Drive R/W 3500/3000MB/s SSD (ASX8200PNP-1TT-C) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K1J3C23/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OUa5CbZM123VN
Curious, have you checked to see if its firmware is up to date? Also, I'm looking at other peoples postings of crystal disk mark on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23#customerReviews I don't know if you've checked it out yet. Seems your getting exactly what everyone gets if not better.
If you are about to spend 150 usd on a 1 tb ssd might as well get this one https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23/ Stellar performance and pricing.
Also the PSU seems a litlte expensive and too little wattage which may hurt on your next upgrade, i would suggest waiting for a sale.
For motherboards you dont need to go too expensive on them Z390 Pro is like 120 usd, get a better cpu cooler instead.
1440p 21:9 is hard to run, consider refurbished 1080tis
Going off of this list, you shouldn't have any real issues. The m.2 drive warning is just letting you know that any SATA drive plugged in needs to be on a different port than where the m.2 is going to disable. Check the motherboard manual, it should tell you when you're building.
The clearance warning for the cooler shouldn't be a big issue either, I've built with the Cooler Master 212 and Corsair Vengeance before and had no issues.
You can always go with a lesser m.2 drive as well to save a few dollars. Most people won't notice the difference between the Samsung 970 Evo and something like the ADATA drive (which can be generally found for less on sale) or the Sabrent drives.
If I'm incorrect on anything, someone please let me know.
If you buy from ADATA on https://www.amazon.ca/gp/offer-listing/B07K1J3C23/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new , there are no taxes, whereas you have to pay GST/HST if you buy from Deal Targets. You save 7$ and free 1 day shpping if you have Prime.
For about 50 bucks more you can pick up a ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1TB 3D NAND NVMe on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23
I've been using this as my main drive since Feb.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/ADATA-SX8200-Gaming-Solid-State/dp/B07K1J3C23
You can order them from Amazon.de with free shipping. They are around 900kr/120€ for the 1TB model, and much better than the p1/660p.
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07P9PCCHL?linkCode=xm2&amp;camp=2025&amp;creative=165953&amp;smid=A341W8HQ7F4J0J&amp;creativeASIN=B07P9PCCHL&amp;tag=geizhals10-21&amp;ascsubtag=MZ10CTMKy9YaecOcZyO1A
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07LGF54XR?linkCode=xm2&amp;camp=2025&amp;creative=165953&amp;smid=A3OPWMF9XBYSSI&amp;creativeASIN=B07LGF54XR&amp;tag=geizhals10-21&amp;ascsubtag=NFFBbRe3173wO0FuujP9Qw
even the better sx8200pro for 5€ more:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07K1J3C23?linkCode=xm2&amp;camp=2025&amp;creative=165953&amp;smid=A3JWKAKR8XB7XF&amp;creativeASIN=B07K1J3C23&amp;tag=geizhalspre03-21&amp;ascsubtag=QE7stJYH0ZYvgEE9KhPpmw
Intel 660p is slow better you buy 1tb Adata SX8200 Pro
https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23
Price only 162 USD
the ssd isn't bad but a well known brand may serve better. this is a little pricier but adata is a well known company and currently the fastest M.2 nvme pcie 3.0 ssd https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K1J3C23/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B07K1J3C23&linkCode=as2&tag=techy067-20&linkId=df95230ca0c61f24fd40f75ac35c90d6
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as far as that aio goes it will fit but will have to be mounted in front. if you wanted to mount a radiator on top you'd either have to pick a new case or smaller aio.
Amazon has a $20 coupon that can be applied, and tax doesn't seem to be charged when at the final checkout review in Ontario at least.
It isn't the lowest price according to CCC, which was very briefly $224.00. Unsure if it was also tax free at the time, or if it had coupons.
CCC: https://ca.camelcamelcamel.com/XPG-SX8200-Pro-Gen3x4-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/product/B07K1J3C23
Review: https://www.anandtech.com/show/13759/comparing-adata-sx8200-pro-vs-hp-ex950
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-SB-ROCKET-256-Rocket-Internal-Performance/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=m.2%2Bssd&amp;qid=1562277273&amp;s=gateway&amp;smid=A29Y8OP2GPR7PE&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;th=1
I would Add an m.2 nvme drive and it would be very good.
The ssd helps so much it will make the computer way faster
Switch this for your hard drive. You can always add a hard drive later if you need more storage
$60
Sabrent 512GB Rocket NVMe PCIe M.2 2280 Internal SSD High Performance Solid State Drive (SB-ROCKET-512) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DqQoDbPYNDV5B
The 500gb 860 evo is approaching high performance nvme prices, you might want to look at drives like the sabrent rocket, adata sx8200, silicon power or similar drive on amazon.
sabrent rocket: https://www.amazon.ca/Sabrent-SB-ROCKET-512-Rocket-Internal-Performance/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2H0D5TAUP2EK6&keywords=sabrent+rocket&qid=1568915130&s=gateway&sprefix=sabrent+r%2Caps%2C211&sr=8-2.
Also is the build 100% for gaming? if so then everything looks good, if not then go with a AMD R7 3700x and a B450 Tomahawk MAX instead of the intel stuff.
https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16822184773?item=N82E16822184773&amp;source=googleshopping&amp;nm_mc=knc-googleadwords-mobile&amp;cm_mmc=knc-googleadwords-mobile-_-pla-_-hard+drives-_-N82E16822184773&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&amp;&amp;gclid=CjwKCAjw_uDsBRAMEiwAaFiHa1dh1Yv7FUYS92iAhhDMpU3qRTJgDtOg9FfIar8k6ksVj2ATF3vycxoCmSwQAvD_BwE
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-SB-ROCKET-512-Rocket-Internal-Performance/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ref=asc_df_B07KGMBCKD/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=319216790773&amp;hvpos=1o2&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=5175878324573050050&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9032854&amp;hvtargid=pla-637438133190&amp;psc=1
Here's the links
Edit: Drop the 3600x for the 3600 and the 970, use the money saved to get a 1tb sabrent rocket.
It's not that complicated. https://www.crucial.com/usa/en/m2-ssds-common-questions
>Team MP32 512 GB M.2-2280
This is keyed for slots 22mm wide, and it's 80mm long. Thats the "normal" size for NVMe M.2 drives. It's commonly known as M.2 2280. This will fit your motherboard.
Regarding the x2/x4 this just means how many PCI-E lanes the drive will utilise for bandwidth. I don't know the specific technical information here but I am assuming as the drive does not reach the bandwidth of 4 PCI-E 3.0 lanes due to it's design, probably to save on costs it's only running off 2 PCI-E lanes.
Compare this to a higher performance NVMe SSD like the 970 Evo Plus which uses 4 lanes.
I suggest you look at the Sabrent Rocket if you want a drive that is higher performance but still relatively cheap.
The main thing you should understand is that M.2 is just the form factor, and an M.2 drive can be either PCIe/NVMe or SATA. A SATA M.2 drive is no faster than a normal 2.5 inch SSD, it just fits into the different slot.
I would recommend this M.2 NVMe drive to you. It's the same price as the SSD you were looking at, while being much better and faster.
r.https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-SB-ROCKET-512-Rocket-Internal-Performance/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sabrent+rocket&amp;qid=1572488046&amp;sr=8-3
If the WD Blue 1TB is a reference to a regular HDD, I'd recommend picking up a 1TB or bigger NVMe since your motherboard supports it.
You can grab 1TB NVMe SSDs for around $100 right now.
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-660p-1-0TB-80mm-978350/dp/B07GCL6BR4
Side note, consider getting a cheap nvme ssd instead of the sata wd blue. Like the Intel 660p https://www.amazon.com/Intel-660p-1-0TB-80mm-978350/dp/B07GCL6BR4/ref=asc_df_B07GCL6BR4/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=309707619534&amp;hvpos=1o2&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=5315756399419173996&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9031174&amp;hvtargid=pla-538210937989&amp;psc=1
Hello everyone. I'm looking to upgrade to an m.2 ssd. Can you guys just confirm for me if these parts are compatible?
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-660p-1-0TB-80mm-978350/dp/B07GCL6BR4/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_2?keywords=Intel+SSD+660p+Series&amp;qid=1550750235&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-2-fkmrnull
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Crossfire-Motherboard-B450-Tomahawk/dp/B07F7W5KJS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542056785&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=tomahawk+b450
I read on pcpartspicker that they are. However; it says slot #1 will disable 2 sata ports. I believe there are 4 on this mobo. So will sata ports #1 and #2 be disabled but #3 and #4 still functional?
Thanks for the help and sorry if dumb question.
Or $126 on amazon with prime shipping
Hopefully the last thing I'll bug you with, I think I'm almost done with the build. I went with the Intel 660 SSD and I don't think it works with the build, it's just a chip that you install directly into the motherboard instead of a box you mount and plug a wire in, and it doesn't seem to fit anywhere unless I'm missing something. I probably got the wrong type of SSD? I should have done more research
Basic pcpartpicker search tool. https://www.amazon.com/Intel-660p-1-0TB-80mm-978350/dp/B07GCL6BR4
Get intel 1TB 660p for the windows install drive https://www.amazon.com/Intel-660p-512GB-80mm-978349/dp/B07GCL6BR4?th=1&amp;psc=1
You have picked a full atx case so get a triple fan gpu
Ebay 1080ti
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Zotac-AMP-Extreme-Edition-GeForce-GTX-1080-Ti-11GB-Nvidia-Graphics-Card-GPU/153457790770?hash=item23bacc0f32:g:HpkAAOSwM5Ncunvm
(There are often cheaper listings as well)
Or new 2070
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Advanced-Overclocked-Graphics-ROG-STRIX-RTX-2070-A8G-Gaming/dp/B07JG7PX32/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=rtx+2070&amp;qid=1557207176&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-4
If you go the 1080ti route consider getting a 144hz 1440p display instead of the 1080p
Extra: 8TB ironwolf hdd for storage
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-IronWolf-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST8000VN0022/dp/B01M1BUBSO
Albeit slightly more expensive, I would also get an AIO (corsair h115i) instead of the dark rock cooler from be quiet, it's much easier to mount, is more silent for longer and doesn't block the LED lights off the motherboard, extra top fans will also help cooling the GPU if you top mount the radiator and set the fans to blow upwards
Looking to get an m.2 SSD for games. Deciding on either this WD Blue or this Intel one. Is there a significant speed difference to justify an extra $15? I don't mind spending it but I don't see a point in extra money if they're rather similar.
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-660p-1-0TB-80mm-978350/dp/B07GCL6BR4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?adgrpid=67221372474&amp;gclid=CjwKCAjw9L_tBRBXEiwAOWVVCYWuWQvY7h5zpiQRFOpf-2baX4xDy42RGrPNM7_W_YLKGy5g-xgLXhoCyfAQAvD_BwE&amp;hvadid=321591554577&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvlocphy=9027373&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvpos=1t1&amp;hvqmt=e&amp;hvrand=17303045267916012872&amp;hvtargid=kwd-577579479743&amp;hydadcr=20134_9346241&amp;keywords=intel+660p+1tb&amp;qid=1571836823&amp;sr=8-3
I bought it about a year ago on sale for 80$ or so.
Do you have any opinions on this?
|Component|Title|Price|
|:-|:-|:-|
|CPU|Ryzen 5 3600|$194 (Amazon US)|
|GPU 1|Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2080 Windforce|$699 (Amazon US)|
|RAM 1|(2x16GB) Corsair Vengeance LPX 2400|$142 (Amazon US)|
|Motherboard|Asus ROG Strix X470-I|$198 (Amazon US)|
|Storage 1|Intel 660p Series 1TB|$99 (Amazon US)|
|Storage 2|Seagate IronWolf NAS 4TB|$99 (Amazon US)|
|Power Supply|Corsair CX550M|$69 (Amazon US)|
|Case|Fractal Design Focus G|$55 (Amazon US)|
|Monitor 1|HP VH240a|$109 (Amazon US)|
| | | |
|Total Price|$1738| |
Instead of the expensive hdd and ssd check this.
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-660p-1-0TB-80mm-978350/dp/B07GCL6BR4
you can do a bit for bit copy (not really recommended, drivers and all that jazz)
I had to move my OS from HDD to SSD a few years back and used a tool called Corsair Toolbox and it worked a treat. It did require having both drives plugged in at the same time though.
What I'd recommend is that you take the data you need onto an ext disk, swap the SSD and the rebuild the OS.
Also, you can get this for cheaper and double the storage capacity. I have the 512 model and it's good!
The Intel 660P is just able the best you can get, apart from the Samsung SSDs.
Intel Solid State Drive (SSD), 660P Series, 1 TB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GCL6BR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NaGRDb5EDWEBT
looks great. have you seen this SSD? it might cost less than the 860
Not necessarily the best, but for your use case it should be more than enough.
Intel 660p 60 bucks for 500gb variant 100 bucks for 1tb.
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-660p-1-0TB-80mm-978350/dp/B07GCL6BR4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=Intel+660p+1tb&amp;qid=1555879252&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1
This one, it's not even up for debate, price to performance is way too good
Stuck between two SSDs: HP EX920 M.2 512GB or 1TB Intel SSD 660p Series
My build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/tgcrTB
Which of the two to get? I can get both for a similar price.
Benchmark comparison: https://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-660p-NVMe-PCIe-M2-1TB-vs-HP-EX920-NVMe-PCIe-M2-512GB/m602553vsm486240
Edit: Added links
I suggest using a NVMe SSD. Switching to that has dramatically changed how fast I load in starting the game, swapping servers and black screens load times. Now if you are talking about arena load times such as the long wait to get into a match, the set up below can't fix that.
---------------------------
This is the set up I went to with my Xbox One X if anyone is interested:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GCL6BR4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Could someone take a look at these two Adata NVMe SSDs and explain how they're different and why they're priced differently?
ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1TB 3D NAND NVMe Gen3x4 PCIe M.2 2280 Solid State Drive R/W 3500/3000MB/s SSD (ASX8200PNP-1TT-C)
ADATA SX8200 3D NAND NVMe Gen3x4 M.2 2280 Solid State Drive (ASX8200NP-960GT-C)
I currently have my OS and a few games on a 256 GB Samsung 960. Most games and other files are on a 7200 rpm 512 gb HDD. I mostly use my PC for gaming, some video downloads (no monster 4K files), and I dont do any media editing.
I am looking to upgrade the HDD to a 1TB SSD. Ideally it would be M.2 NVMe but open to other options. I have the option to ship US products to a US address and grab them.
I am looking for recommendations on what drive would fit best.
From brief research I've found the following:
Sabrent rocket (USD 100) - https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Rocket-Internal-Performance-SB-ROCKET-1TB/dp/B07LGF54XR
ADATA su800 (USD 133) - https://www.amazon.com/ADATA-SU800-Ultimate-Solid-ASU800NS38-1TT-C/dp/B01MR7FVM9/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=sx8200+pro&amp;qid=1562260212&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=sx82&amp;sr=8-3
XPG sx8200 pro (USD 140) - https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=sx8200+pro&amp;qid=1562260377&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=sx82&amp;sr=8-1
Seems like it’s sold out at the moment, but use the link below to change the capacity to 512gb, and the style to M.2 PCIe 1800mb/s. Make sure you buy from ADATA as the seller in order to get it tax-free
https://www.amazon.ca/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=xpg%2Bsx8200&amp;qid=1562160909&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=xpg%2B&amp;sr=8-2&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
It has been about 6 years since I built a PC. I am out of the loop on many things. Can you tell me why you choose that SSD? It seems slower than some out there for a similar price?
Such as this https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23?psc=1&amp;SubscriptionId=AKIAIPHVZTVH6LZ5BFZA&amp;tag=hawk-future-20&amp;linkCode=xm2&amp;camp=2025&amp;creative=165953&amp;creativeASIN=B07K1J3C23&amp;ascsubtag=t3-8960926228100124750-20
Does anybody know if the ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1TB 3D NAND NVMe Gen3x4 PCIe M.2 would work as well?
https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23?th=1#
I got really lucky during the Amazon Prime sale. I purchased a 1TB ADATA M.2 SX8200 Pro for only $100. https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23
My speedtests were pretty darn close to the advertised speeds. Despite some of the complaints about ADATA by Samsung fans, this has been a fantastic SSD purchase. I did have to be careful about which M.2 I purchased because I didn't have enough space for any of the M.2 with a big heatsink. I did apply the heatsink provided in the box. I tracked down a lot of the complaints only to find out they were for completely different products or they were installed without following instructions, like leaving the Optane setting enabled in the BIOS when they were trying to use the M.2 as a boot drive.
For the RAM, I chose Kingston (2x16GB) HyperX Impact Part# HX426S15IB2K2/32 I had to shop around to find the kit for $130. The 2666MHz speed and CL15 latency are right in the sweet spot for my processor. Plus, the sticks didn't have huge, preinstalled heatsinks. I don't ever want to dig through RAM specs again.
Do I need to worry about my MOBO's QVL for SSDs? I'm planning to snag this MOBO while it's on sale @ Newegg. I was hoping to grab this SSD, as it seems like a great deal, and has excellent reviews. The PRO 1tb model of the SSD is not on the linked QVL page, in fact none of the PRO models; however, the QVL does list the less than 1tb non-PRO models as compatible. I'm hoping to use this drive as my boot drive, and boot drive compatibility is my main concern for following the QVL. Should this matter? Thanks!
There is no coupon atm, it will show under the price when it's sold by ADATA here
When I bought it there was a $20 coupon and a couple weeks ago there was a $30 one. Keep an eye out they may bring the coupon back.
It's a relatively useful relevant product that significantly dropped in price recently.
It'll be difficult to find a good deal for one used.
Keep an eye out for sales like the XPG SX8200 Pro for $219.99 (no tax)
For gaming, generally you'll want a cheaper SSD, as game load times get significantly diminishing returns from increasing SSD performance.
Something like an Adata su800 for $95 is great if you really want to keep down costs.
There are other good choices that are somewhat better like the Western Digital Blue 3d, or the Crucial MX500, but they're also more expensive in the $110-130 range.
For $160 you could get the adata xpg sx8200 pro which is a relatively recently released nvme drive that rivals the popular samsung 970 Evo for the price of the much lower performance 860 Evo.
The biggest reason you'd want a more expensive drive is if you're often transferring files, especially large files. The higher transfer rates can save you quite a bit of time if you're doing a lot of moving.
But if you're just occasionally installing a new game and most just playing them? You probably want something cheap.
How does this compare to the XPG ADATA 8200 Pro?
If you're at all handy, it's really easy to do the upgrades yourself. Here's a YouTube video showing how. The video is for last year's 9570 model, but the upgrade process is identical. Skip the WiFi chip upgrade unless you have specific problems (rare) that can't be resolved with the process I linked above (exceedingly rare).
You have a ton of options for RAM and SSD - so many that it can be quite overwhelming. You have to be careful to get compatible memory, whereas basically any SSD that fits will work. Performance will be roughly the same across RAM kits, but the SSD has more of a performance range. I'll link some examples. Since your link is for Dell Canada, I'll just use Amazon Canada for examples because I know it works.
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Before you pick upgrades
If you can get the screen, processor, battery, and discrete graphics card you want simultaneously, start with 8 GB RAM and a 256 GB SSD and upgrade both aftermarket (go straight for 1 TB on the SSD upgrade). If you can't drop lower than a 512 GB SSD to get right screen/processor/battery/dGPU combination, instead go with the 512 GB SSD and keep that initially unless you know you need 1 TB. You can upgrade later, although it is a little tricky logistically - if you'd prefer to save yourself the potential hassle, upgrading to aftermarket 1 TB immediately is defensible.
Consider starting with 8 or 16 GB of RAM and, if the option is available for the rest of the config you want, a 512 GB SSD. If you get a model with 8 GB RAM, you can pull out the 2x4 GB sticks and put in a single 16 GB stick instead. If you decide you need 32 GB later, you can pop in a second identical 16 GB stick. (Two modules is technically faster than one, but the performance difference is negligible. Don't worry about it.) If the screen/processor/battery/GPU you want only come on a model with 16 GB RAM, just start with that and buy an upgrade later if you need more elbow room. Very few people need 32 GB - an example of that use case is if you're running multiple virtual machines simultaneously and have to have them locally rather than spinning up just what you need in The Cloud.
Similarly, though not to as great an extent, 1 TB is a lot of disk space. Do you need that much? If you don't have hundreds of gigabytes of media you want to store locally or keep >2 AAA games installed simultaneously, you're probably fine with 512 GB. Again, you can always upgrade later, although the logistics are trickier if you want to save all your old data.
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Memory
Crucial is a solid choice. Crucial's website has a nice compatibility picker for the XPS 15 7590, but since they don't handle Canadian customs for you, here's an Amazon CA link (32 GB selected, but you can pick 1x16 instead of 2x16).
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SSD
You need an m.2 2280 NVMe SSD. Nearly any SSD fitting those parameters will work. If you're going to aftermarket-upgrade the SSD, go straight for 1 TB (or more if you really need more). I have heard very good things about the Silicon Power P34A80 (review, purchase) and the Adata XPG SX8200 Pro (review, purchase). Note that the SX8200 Pro is double-sided, but it has been reported to fit and work just fine in an XPS 9570 and so should work in a 7590 as well.
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Display
You didn't ask about this, but since you're going to save a bunch of money on the RAM and SSD, consider whether your use case merits treating yourself to a 4K display for a fair chunk of the cost you just saved :-P
If you need >10 hours of battery runtime, skip 4K. Otherwise it's really nice. Text is amazingly crisp, which I have found lets me run at 175% display scaling and still read comfortably. (Windows 10 default is 125% for 1080p and 250% for 4K). There are a small number of applications that don't do well with UI scaling, which makes 4K a less-than-great choice for those, but you can always drop back to 1080p just while using those applications if you really have to. It'll look pretty good because 4K is an exact multiplier of 1080p.
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Base Models
I'm not listing prices because they change too frequently. Just check the links.
Hi. I guess you are a Prime member, can you please check out prices on these SSDs with Prime?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K1J3C23/ (currently $148-30coupon=118 for me)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KZNTZYB/ (currently $140-20coupon=120 for me)
I have an option to use Prime trial right now, and if these are cheaper with the membership, I'll use it.
SX8200 pro is $159.99 today
SX8200 pro is a good value. If you wait until ADATA gets it back in stock you can get it for 161 with no tax.
thank you so much I'll look into the Noctua cooler! Last question sorry to bother you, do you think a M.2 ADATA XPG SX8200 would be worth the upgrade over the mx500 or 860 EVO?
Thanks for your help. My B450 motherboard does have an M.2 slot, I think. At the moment I am looking at https://www.amazon.co.uk/ADATA-SX8200-Gaming-Solid-State/dp/B07K1J3C23/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=sx8200+pro&amp;psr=EY17&amp;qid=1574437106&amp;s=black-friday&amp;sprefix=sx+8&amp;sr=8-1
Good idea?
Everything looks pretty good, I changed RAM brand to get her an small upgrade to 3200mhz (same price)
I upped the PSU to 550w because it was actually cheaper.
I would consider an SSD change, but my favorite is about $50 more, this one is TLC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K1J3C23?tag=pcpapi-20&amp;linkCode=ogi&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
PCPartPicker Part List
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 2400G 3.6 GHz Quad-Core Processor | $119.00 @ Amazon
Motherboard | ASRock B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $78.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Patriot Viper Steel 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $64.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial P1 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $95.99 @ Amazon
Case | Fractal Design Focus G ATX Mid Tower Case | $54.97 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Corsair CX (2017) 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $44.99 @ Newegg
Optical Drive | Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $19.85 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $498.77
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $478.77
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-20 22:53 EST-0500 |
What is the largest file size you're loading in Solidworks? You will really only see a benefit of a Gen4 NVME if you're loading very large files, and very often.
Gen4 NVME's and modern high end SSD's perform very similarly in file access times, and there is no difference in file access times on a Gen4 NVME vs. a Gen3 NVME vs. an SSD. Honestly, you could put all the files on my SSD that I have on my NVME, and in 99% of the cases I wouldn't be able to tell you which drive I'm loading from, because it's so uncommon that applications are bottlenecked by storage bandwidth.
Depending on what you're doing in Solidworks, you will likely be better served by budgeting more towards a 32GB kit (2x16GB) of RAM, and getting a Gen3x4 NVME (an Adata XPG 8200 is a great mid-tier NVME that will likely do everything you'd expect from fast storage for Solidworks)
Also, the 5700 XT performs the same on a PCI-E 2.0 slot as it would on a PCI-E 4.0 slot, in fact even a 2080 Ti only loses 2-3 FPS at 4K on PCI-E 2.0. GPU's are just nowhere near needing the extra bandwidth.
I understand wanting to be up-to-date with a new build, but X570 is currently a very niche platform for people who need GOBS of storage bandwidth. Unless you have an endless budget, the way to get the most out of Zen2 is to go as completely overkill on the cooling as you can afford first, and then consider the motherboard second. Even most B450 boards will have the same boost frequency as an X570, simply because the VRM's aren't what's limiting Zen2 in most cases, it's the cooling.
If you have the budget for it, obviously a high end X570 and a high end AIO water cooler or open loop is great. However, if you'd like to save money and reallocate for the best performance, you can use a lower tier X570 in order to move more of your budget to water cooling, and you'll see the same performance as the high end X570.
Just some suggestions for getting the most out of Zen2 for your hard earned cash!
That was my thought.
Does it make sense to RAID the drives? Also, whats your thoughts on this SSD vs 970EVO.
ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro
Edit: Lightning deal is coming up very early tomorrow morning too!
I'm not saying you shouldn't have a backup solution, regardless of which model you use, just that the statistics of drive failures is not uniform. I understand that the EVO 860 and the SU655 aren't directly comparable, but the Samsung and Adata lineups don't exactly mesh up 1-to-1 and the SU655 had the most reviews/best statistics. Taking their flagship XPG SX8200 Pro, instead, still has 3.0% of the comments which are critical and contain the word "fail", but there are only 33 total reviews (compared to 310 for the SU655) so the statistics is poor to point of being unusable.
Instead of the 970 M.2 I would recommend the Adata XPG SX8200, it's still 1TB and crazy good performance for almost $100 less. Toms Hardware has done extensive research on various SSDs and recommends the Adata as the best overall. I love it in my build, just like how I love the Royal Trident ram in my build as well, if its in your budget I would upgrade to the 3200 ram as well.
I agree with u/Wirthless, definitely upgrade the PSU to at least a 700/750, since you're running a 2080 and i9. The bronze rating is the only thing I would hesitate about the one you chose. Seasonic is awesome, but go with their Focus line, which has a gold rating. Otherwise good build!
The MX 500 is one of the more popular SATA SSDs. I can definitely recommend that one. If your mobo has an M.2 slot, then you might consider one of these much faster SSDs for similar price.
Oh god, I just tried to find them on Australian sites... You poor bastards...
Well, I guess read this review of the BX 500. It doesn't seem like a bad choice, if that's your budget.
You can get a Sabrent 512GB NVME for $50 from amazon https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-SB-ROCKET-512-Rocket-Internal-Performance/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ saves you about $15 from the WD you picked and no rebate hassle.
Looks good, the only thing I’d change is using a nvme drive instead of the Samsung evo because nvme drives run at way faster speeds than sata ones. This one will give you over 6 times faster read speeds and about 4 times faster write speeds for $20 dollars less. Samsung ssd’s are really overpriced.
Thank you so much! This was so helpful!
So for the ssd, is this one good? I'mm sorry, I'm extremely inexperienced, I know nothing about what the letters you typed mean I just tried to find something cheap with good reviews that matched! Also should I get the SSD along with the hybrid, an ssd with an HDD, or just the ssd?
https://www.amazon.ae/Sabrent-Rocket-Internal-Performance-SB-ROCKET-512/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ref=asc_df_B07KGMBCKD/?tag=googleshopp09-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=378718252021&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=463969155004527754&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1000013&hvtargid=pla-637438133190&th=1
Yeah is very easy to find good NVMe PCIe 3.0 x4 at better prices than SATA (60$), like THIS one or THIS, or even the CRUCIAL P1 (wish i think is worse than the other two, but is a better known brand).
Thanks for the replies.
Honestly, I've never used them, and the only experience I have is through my friend. If you're not comfortable using it then I wouldn't risk it. It was just a suggestion.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Rocket-Internal-Performance-SB-ROCKET-1TB/dp/B07KGMBCKD?th=1
This is the NVME drive. They have 1tb at $100, 512 at $59, and 256 $39. Looks like they also have a 2tb. My last build had a 256, and the guy who I sold it to eventually upgraded, but if you're already planning on using an SSD then you should be fine with the 256 only holding your OS. I believe boot times would be under 15 seconds, but I'm not 100% certain.
Yeh, but https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/?tag=pcpapi-20 vs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KGMBCKD/?tag=pcpapi-20 ?
You might look at this, I don't know.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/c9da2x/for_those_on_a_budget_still_wanting_to_get_to/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ref=twister_B07QJ7ZFQ3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
If you are trying to stay around 300 for your current build I would look at r5 2nd gen w/mobo and 3000+mhz ram. Pick up an m.2 nvme for your hd. Something like this.
Sabrent 512GB Rocket Nvme PCIe M.2 2280 Internal SSD High Performance Solid State Drive (SB-ROCKET-512) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bB6hDbX93NFA4
And you should stay close to budget. If you want a new graphics card that will be a different story.
You can get this if you don't have a MC near you.
Sabrent 512GB Rocket NVMe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8uFnDbT6MH77H
It's the same price as the inland premium and uses the same controller Phison E12
I don’t know what others’ experience is with the Sabrent rocket, but it’s so fast. I don’t know why anyone buys another NVME. I have the 1TB, so the write speed is faster than the 512mb, but even that is faster than the Intel.
Sabrent Rocket 512mb
Just my .02
I agree with etnguyen03, you should invest into an nvme m.2 ssd as they are easier to install and are also faster than regular sata ssds. Also check this out, you might be interested in a 2070 for 366$ right now on Amazon.
I would recommend getting an nvme drive with an nvme enclosure. I personally have a sabrent rocket nvme drive with a sabrent nvme enclosure. Comes out to be $100
Why a SATA SSD? You can go with a much faster NVMe one for about the same price.
I would switch out the Samsung 860 Evo for the Sabrent Rocket 512 GB it's not only cheaper but it's faster than any SATA SSD. Take a look at the MSI Gaming X 2060 Super, it's $430 at B&H and should be much better than reference. Though if the choice for reference was aesthetic I won't stop you.
Waiting for a good 5700xt to be back down near MSRP (such as the Pulse at $409, Gigabyte Gaming OC at $419 or the Nitro+/Red Devil at $439) would get you better performance if you won't miss the RTX features like new NVENC encoder (though really if you're using GPU stream encoding you should get a 3600 instead of a 2700x) and ray tracing. Drivers being buggy seems hit or miss.
I would also consider some Crucial Ballistix 3200 mhz kits that have a model number ending in AES. Such as this one as it means you can guarantee getting memory chips that tend to clock better/more consistently (Micron Rev. E). I'm not entirely sure what chips G. Skill is using for that kit.
I can't find it either. Here it is on newegg
https://www.newegg.com/intel-660p-series-512gb/p/N82E16820167460
Here is another one I was looking at, that is on Amazon. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07KGMBCKD/
Yeah. I would suggest looking into a Sabrent Rocket m.2 nvme ssd. They are much lower cost without sacrificing much speed. I'll edit this comment in a few minutes with a link for you.
Edit: I would go at least 512gb. 60usd.
Sabrent 512GB Rocket NVMe PCIe M.2 2280 Internal SSD High Performance Solid State Drive (SB-ROCKET-512) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ocPLDbY1VV2JR
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KGMBCKD/
Just as good drive for $5 more, but new
Looking into a suitable SSD. I'm leaning towards this -
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ref=psdc_430505031_t1_B07P7TFKRH?th=1
Its M.2 NNMe, good reviews affordable. Just want to make sure this is compatible.
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I'm at work, so I can't check what Ram I have, but I think its safe to guess from the Model and its specs that I have a 8GB DDR4 2400 mt/s SODIMM (260-pin?) and looking into also getting this which I think is compatible -
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-CT8G4SFS824A-PC4-19200-Single-260-Pin/dp/B01BIWKP58/
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If all this for under £100 can get me another year at of the Laptop, definitely worth it.
500 gigs go new for around $60-$70
Edit
Sabrent 512GB Rocket NVMe PCIe M.2 2280 Internal SSD High Performance Solid State Drive (SB-ROCKET-512) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iZkYDbFA9CV0D
GET THIS MOTHERBOARD INSTEAD AS IT HAS A WAY BETTER VRM THAT CAN HANDLE A 3950X OC https://www.amazon.com/Asus-Prime-X570-P-Ryzen-Motherboard/dp/B07SW925DR/ref=sr_1_1?crid=UOR2QTMTWTID&keywords=asus+x570p&qid=1572971920&sprefix=asus+x570+%2Caps%2C358&sr=8-1
OR THIS IF YOU NEED WIFI
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-TUF-X570-Plus-Motherboard-Lighting/dp/B07SXF8GY3/ref=sr_1_2?crid=UOR2QTMTWTID&keywords=asus+x570p&qid=1572971920&sprefix=asus+x570+%2Caps%2C358&sr=8-2
RYZEN IS NOTORIOUS FOR HAVING ISSUES WITH CORSAIR RAM SO GET ONE OF THESE INSTEAD
https://www.amazon.com/G-Skill-Ripjaws-PC4-28800-CL16-19-19-39-F4-3600C16D-16GVKC/dp/B07X8DVDZZ/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2XCCYAGMPGNW6&keywords=ddr4+3600&qid=1572972012&sprefix=DDR4+3600%2Caps%2C381&sr=8-5
OR
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WVT8SGF/ref=dp_cerb_2
SSD
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Rocket-Internal-Performance-SB-ROCKET-1TB/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=NVME%2BSSD&qid=1572972195&s=electronics&sr=1-6&th=1
THAT BEQUIET PSU IS WAY OVERPRICED GET THIS INSTEAD
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0650-Y1/dp/B01LYGFRL6/ref=sr_1_1?crid=FGOJGR74XJKV&keywords=evga+650w&qid=1572972243&sprefix=EVGA+6%2Caps%2C369&sr=8-1
GPU WISE WHY ARE YOU GETTING A 2060S, IF ITS FOR RTX THEN PLS DONT, MY 2080 SUCKS AT RTX.
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Graphics-256-Bit-Gv-R57XTGAMING-OC-8GD/dp/B07W95D5V3/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1FK3863HZDJT1&keywords=5700+xt&qid=1572972451&s=electronics&sprefix=57%2Celectronics%2C364&sr=1-5
GET THE 5700XT AS IT PERFORMS CLOSER TO THE 2070S FOR THE SAME PRICE (THIS ONE IS 10$ CHEAPER)
COOLER WISE,
IF YOU WANT AN AIO THIS ONE IS BETTER
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Liquid-Cooler-Cooling-400-HY-CL28-V1/dp/B01N16CAKN/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1OCFL4DYDBT86&keywords=evga+clc+280&qid=1572972539&sprefix=EVGA+CL%2Caps%2C345&sr=8-1
I'D PERSONALLY STICK WITH THE WRAITH PRIZM AS THERE IS NO NEED TO UPGGRADE UNLESS YOU WANT THAT SWEET 4.4GHZ OC. IF YOU WANT TO OC GET THE COOLER ABOVE
IF YOU WANT AN AIR COOLER, GET THIS
https://www.amazon.com/NOCTUA-NH-D15-chromax-Black-Dual-Tower-Cooler/dp/B07Y3CTQNT/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1QU9QXYJISXDX&keywords=noctua+nh-d15+ltt&qid=1572972675&sprefix=noctua+nh-d15+L%2Caps%2C338&sr=8-3
IF YOU LIVE NEAR A MICROCENTER YOU CAN GET WAY BETTER DEALS THERE.
Blue Snowball iCE Condenser Microphone, Cardioid - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014PYGTUQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3E1VDb7SC3D02
I’d recommend this for ssd:
Sabrent 512GB Rocket NVMe PCIe M.2 2280 Internal SSD High Performance Solid State Drive (SB-ROCKET-512) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2F1VDbDSH53F4
Will my PC fully support an NVMe SSD, such as these:
My PC is this Lenovo IdeaCentre 710
yes, gpu is my current one, i will replace it with a 5700xt or 2060 in a couple of months
for storage i'm looking at m2 Sabrent 512GB Rocket NVMe PCIe M.2 2280 (60€). total configuration will cost aroung 580-610€ (it depends on cpu cooler)
i'm living in italy
Is it this one? https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-SB-ROCKET-512-Rocket-Internal-Performance/dp/B07KGMBCKD
I have 2 of the 1tb Sabrent NVME m.2 drives in my 3700x build and am really happy with them. I think I paid around $110 each for them on amazon. here is the 500gb version which is $70 before a $5 coupon.
This or the Sabrent Rocket? Going 512gb for either, but they're both $60 + tax https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KGMBCKD?th=1
On paper they seem to be the same but have different controllers? Also would not really mind waiting.
Lol this is not the best build option but its a bit unique. This Asrock A300 case and board thing is tiny and uses laptop SO-DIMMs. If you want something super small this could be a fun and simple thing to build.
Asrock A300 Case/board/PSU all in one for $150
R3 2200G APU for $80
RAM Crucial DDR4 SO-DIMMS for $40
SSD 500GB Sabrent Rocket NVME for $60
Total: $330
Which specific power supply? If it's a higher end one, 3 years is nothing.
Change the SSD for a Sabrent Rocket. You can currently get the 512 GB version for $92 tax free with a coupon https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07KGMBCKD
What SSD would be similar to the Sabrent Rocket in terms of price and performance?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07KGMBCKD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have no idea what you just said but this is the product
I do like the addition of the cooler approach. I have previously melted graphics cards (don't ask)
I'd be keen to swap out the HDD for a larger M2, I really only need just a boot drive as I have an HDD I can bring over (apologies for not making that clear in the OP.. I have much to learn about this subreddit's ways).
Would you say the Sabrent 512GB from u/IHave47Chromosomes suggestion would work well or is there a better option?
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX
This is what I was talking about.
Okay, that means it's probably running around 16GB @ 2133Mhz which isn't bad. I'm guessing it's not single channel, are there two sticks of RAM inside of your PC?
If you're saying you'll do $200 for each upgrade, meaning a total for $400, I might actually do something like this:
WD Blue 1tb SSD ($120 Amazon)
Used/Refurb GTX 1070 ($200-$230 Ebay)
Doesn't have to be that particular 1070, they average that price on Ebay right now. Just get one with two fans as the single fan blower-style struggles in cooling performance.
Hey dude, Singaporean here as well! And For you I'll recommend getting a new case and Motherboard +CPU.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1W3wurvEJFEEZkES875Os6DHOT2RuYqFDGB9Bl1iH2ZA/edit?usp=sharing
here is a spreadsheet that I use for people I help to build PCs for, with prices for stuff from Sim Lim (because having local warranty is good). But yeah, this is just for reference. You can always try amazon esp to save abit on older Ryzens and RAM but RMA may be a bit of a pain just so that you are aware. But for cases, the techware Nexus is pretty solid choice and I think it's only $50 SGD.
https://www.tecware.co/nexus
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IIRC it's the same case that Aftershock uses on their more budget lineup.
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In any case, If I were you, I'll either wait for the Ryzen 3000 series if I want local warranty, or if I dont mind shipping from amazon and potentially having to deal with overseas RMA, wait for Ryzen 2000 sales on amazon after the 3000 series launches. Or get the 1600 from amazon now. since the prices of those have been crazy cheap these days and TBH it wont bottleneck your RX 580 anyways.
SSD wise, how big do you want it? a 500GB WD Blue 3D is like $100SGD now, so not too different from say a 500GB 860 evo once you add in the conversion rate + Import Tax+ Shipping. But if you wait for a sale on the 1TB 860Evo, those could be quite nice, since I've seen amazon sell those for 130USD during sales, which is quite cheap considering the lower performance 860QVO is like $200SGD right now from local distributors (and the failure rate on Samsung SSDs are so low that the RMA risks are minimal). as for the 860 evo, no reason to buy one of those in SG now since for almost the same price you can get the Adata XPG SX8200 Pro but with performance matching or surpassing in some areas, the much vaulted 970 Evo.
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Edit: Just saw the WD Blue 3D 1TB for $115USD on amazon.https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1LPKB9DX5EIHI&keywords=wd+blue+3d+1tb&qid=1557331485&s=gateway&sprefix=WD+Blue+3d+1tb%2Caps%2C354&sr=8-12
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=sxin_4_sxwds-bovbs?keywords=1tb+ssd&amp;pd_rd_i=B073SBQMCX&amp;pd_rd_r=5c3ac605-77ea-4306-846b-829039a4fc32&amp;pd_rd_w=JHRqY&amp;pd_rd_wg=7NDK8&amp;pf_rd_p=6f815202-382e-4ec6-865f-680b1de61340&amp;pf_rd_r=TZV3WCHWZ09WK2EK92TJ&amp;qid=1556687815&amp;s=gateway
Western digital Blue is great for gaming.
Was looking into getting an internal SSD. I was hoping for a 2TB but they are quite pricey. I noticed it was actually cheaper to buy two 1TB instead. Can anyone foresee a downside to this, apart from taking up another port in my PC? As it stands right now, the 3TB HDD it'd replace is already partitioned into two 1.5TB parts.
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Sorry if this is a dumb question, any notes appreciated.
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EDIT: Like this WD one for example. $163 for 1TB, while all 2TB hover around $400
https://www.amazon.ca/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ssd%2B1tb&qid=1551152612&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1
I would recommend buying a 500gb SSD then buying an HDD to store other games. You want to keep your SSD less than 70% full so that's why I like to go that route. However, if you want a 1tb SSD, any of these will work: https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-SSD-PLUS-Internal-SDSSDA-1T00-G26/dp/B07D998212/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ssd+1tb&qid=1571287955&sr=8-4 , https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Inch-Internal-MZ-76E1T0B-AM/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ssd+1tb&qid=1571287955&sr=8-3 , https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=ssd+1tb&qid=1571287955&sr=8-5
MX300 is $264. There's a WD for sale for $230: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX
edit*: I might go for the $350 intel SSD or something like that with speeds around 1900mb/s
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=mx500&amp;qid=1574969509&amp;sr=8-8
This is better
Would this be a good SSD to grab?
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-500GB-SSD-WDS500G2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ssd&qid=1572309357&sr=8-4&th=1#customerReviews
Any thoughts on this one? Seems like a good deal.
would this work?
> Typically those get used for running the OS?
These days the mSATA port is rarely used, because mSATA SSDs are less common and are generally more expensive compared to regular SATA SSDs (that are drop-in replacements for laptop hard drives). A quick Amazon.com search yields:
As you can see, a 500GB mSATA SSD costs slightly less than a 1TB 2.5" SSD, which means the cost per gigabyte is almost double. :O
One benefit of the mSATA slot is that it allows the X220 to have both an SSD (for speed) and an HDD (greater storage capacity) at the same time. My own X220 uses a 60GB mSATA SSD which is somehow able to fit both Windows 7 and Debian Linux, and a 1 TB hard drive.
Someone recommended this one which on sale for $900 if a Prime member and seems to work... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTHLX8C
Looks like I can also swap in the 1TB SSD I have... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SBQMCX
Is that correct?
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073SBQMCX
That's what I got.
What's the best value 1TB SATA SSD?
$125 Silicon Power 1TB SSD 3D NAND A55
$128 Samsung 860 EVO 1TB
(edits are adding additional SSDs to the list)
$134 WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB PC SSD
I need a new SSD for games my current 500gb EVO 850 that runs my OS is full from mostly games. I know it's bad to run SSDs filled to the brim since they have less cache/space to move data around to more evenly spread out wear on the drive. So I want to move all my games over to the 1TB SSD so I can actually edit photos/videos off the 500gb C: drive. Currently photos/videos on an SSD and I'll move a working folder to the SSD when actually working on a project.
My understanding is that MLC memory is more durable than TLC memory. Is there a significant difference between the two drives? Looks like they have pretty similar read/writes in real world performance. A little confused how the Samsung has 3bit MLC that sounds like what TLC is. I know it really probably doesn't matter at all. I'm leaning towards the Samsung since it has a longer warranty and my 850 hasn't given me any problems.
I juuuuust ordered the drive in the link below. Other than form factor, is there any difference?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073SBQMCX
Edit: I meant to reply to the M.2 comment.
I searched the Q&A on the Amazon product listing for this drive and a couple responses are saying it is in fact TLC.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SBQMCX
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-500GB-SSD-WDS500G2B0A/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=western+digital+blue&qid=1565669023&s=gateway&sr=8-8
I've become partial to these guys. I actually have 2 in my 2012 15" (one is in the optical drive bay) and set them up in a RAID0 config (this combines the two drives into one, so its twice as fast as just one SSD!), so my computer absolutely flies. I love it.
A solid stage drive, there more expensive but they load games and boot a whole lot faster, I would recommend a small dump drive for Miscellaneous items that you don’t need to load fast. Here’s a good one for example .
Would getting these two work?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SBZ8YH/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
and
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=psdc_160354011_t1_B071JBGGQ1
dang $260 for a 500gb is quite a bit. you can get this instead
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=twister_B076N3PP13?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Yeah you could absolutely do that if you are satisfied with how fast your pc boots up when you turn it on.
[I recommend this ssd](https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-500GB-SSD-WDS500G2B0A/dp/B073SBZ8YH/)
[Just incase get a sata cable.](https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-18-Inch-Cable-Locking-90-Degree/dp/B009GUXU52/)
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I would look on youtube for help on formatting for your pc.
You could go with a less powerful psu 600-650 would work just fine also blue has a 500gb ssd for 10$ less.
Blue SSD: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-500GB-SSD-WDS500G2B0A/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1550260497&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=Blue+ssd&amp;psc=1
WD has their blue one on amazon.ca for $90
WD Blue 3D NAND 500GB PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s 2.5"/7mm Solid State Drive - WDS500G2B0A https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZF39BbMKAN6TT
Ryzen 5 1600 - $80 at microcenter
AsRock B450M - $70 at microcenter
Rx580 4-8gb- $100-$180 used on ebay
CORSAIR Vengeance 2x4 3000mhz - $63
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0123ZBPDA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_VMc3CbBXQZK1W
Evga 600w 80+Bronze - $45
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DTP6QKG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_CSc3CbQ9Y4J2F
Wd Blue 500gb Ssd - $65
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_jVc3CbDXTM3VP
Sorry about the jumbled mess but the price for the parts would be $450-$500
NVMe makes a small difference in load times for your OS. NVMe just isn't worth the extra cost.
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I recommend the Crucial MX500 or WD Blue.
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0786QNS9B/
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBZ8YH/
Check out this one:
WD Blue 3D NAND 500GB PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm - WDS500G2B0A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fzx0CbHDFBSC9
Not sure what you mean by DRAM cache, do you mean get a DRAM SSD instead of something like a NAND SSD? Currently looking at https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B073SBZ8YH/
In what way are they too high?
I can get a 512GB SSD for $83 and thats for WD drive
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-500GB-SSD-WDS500G2B0A/dp/B073SBZ8YH
Now for this particular subset of Technology which is not an SSD. Its new tech and will take some time to come down in price like all other thechnology.
You just dont understand how damn expensive it is to make these chips... The facility that made these 512GB microSD chips likely started construction 4 years ago...
Hi there, u/Soybeanns!
Great choice on wanting to upgrade to an SSD.
If your laptop has an M.2 slot (Have a look on HP's support site at the manuals), why not try something like this.
If not, or you're not too comfortable with M.2, this does the job.).
On the RAM side, well, if you feel like it, you could. However, if all you're doing is MS Word and PowerPoint, 4GB is fine. Any more than that, have a look at how many SODIMM slots you have on Dell's manual, and buy any DDR4 SODIMMs that match.
Clean install would be just what you said.
Hope I helped?
Personal opinion: if you're replacing the drive anyway, upgrade that sucker to solid state. It won't cost you that much more and it's less likely to go out and the speed is 10 times faster. Trust me you won't regret it.
Grab a portable SSD from like samsung, they aren't that cheap, but they are super portable, durable, and fast. They aren't as high capacity as spinning drives, though.
Something like this, $100 for 500gb: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073GZBT36
Or you can build an external SSD yourself, take a bare ssd like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ and put it in an enclosure like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KYF1LLI
Link?
Nm found it
I could play on Medium with a 7 year old PC, with a GeForce GTX 760. So if you can't afford this PC and the SSD, go to your local PC shops/craigslist and see if you can find a 1-3 year old gaming PC, if it has 8 GB of DDR3 or DDR4 RAM, and like a GeForce GTX 960 or something better, you should be fine honestly as long as you can get a good deal on it. Then you would just want to buy a 500GB - 1 TB SSD drive and replace the (C:) drive with the new SSD. Honestly as long as the PC has an i5 or i7 processor from within the last 3-4 years, with just enough RAM, and a halfway decent graphics card along with an SSD, you should probably be able to play on High settings I would bet. Medium easily. Below is a link to an $81 500GB SSD that should be sufficient.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-500GB-SSD-WDS500G2B0A/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537858402&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=500gb+ssd
If you're not installing a lot of games. Western digital 500gb SSD is on sale now for $89
WD Blue 3D NAND 500GB PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s 2.5"/7mm Solid State Drive - WDS500G2B0A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8haOBb3TWDNC7
If you don’t want to use up an M.2 slot, WD also has a SATA III regular SSD for the same price.
WD Blue 3D NAND 500GB PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s 2.5"/7mm Solid State Drive - WDS500G2B0A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1ZbQBbBJC9PR
Edit: link was messed up
So this would work better?
> Looking for a replacement harddrive for my Acer aspire 5742. The drive 750GB. Can I put a bigger drive in, does it have to be the same size, what type is best? Kind of new at this?
It's 1 standard size for ALL laptops, regardless of 500gb or 750gb or 1 terabyte.
That is 2.5"
You can put in ANY 2.5" (2.5 inch) SSD or hard drive and it will fit perfectly.
Example of a valid option if you don't find one here:
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Momentus-Internal-Notebook-ST9750420AS/dp/B004MME0N0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521642608&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=750gb+2.5%22&amp;dpID=51%252B4IKXS5wL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
As long as it says 2.5" you're gucci. You can also even do a 2.5" SSD if you want something crazy fast... however they are MUCH more expensive.
You're also not limited by brand. Any 2.5" will do.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-500GB-SSD-WDS500G2B0A/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521642691&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=500gb+2.5%22+ssd&amp;dpID=4183lN8zQWL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Both are compatible, maybe you found the m.2 version of the western digital drive? The MX500 is a superb choice nontheless.
Here would be a link to the WD BLUE as a 2.5" SSD
Here is a link the the WD BLUE m.2 version of the SSD
I think and hope you got the 2.5" version of the crucial SSD
Basically you want to shove together this this this this
Thank you! What do you think of the WD Blue 500GB SSD? This is my first PC build so I don't have a feel for what works well in this case.
WD Blue 500GB M.2 SSD for $119 on Amazon...
Or Normal WD Blue 500gb SSD for $119
Hey man hope this helps. If you order anything through these links, you'll be helping me as well.
GTX 1080:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K5F8MJK/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=officialplayt-20&amp;creative=9325&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;creativeASIN=B01K5F8MJK&amp;linkId=55766126612d043a6d0e6f8508ac6c45
I5 8600k:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0759FKH8K/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=officialplayt-20&amp;creative=9325&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;creativeASIN=B0759FKH8K&amp;linkId=bf7e8b786b6ff8208104056aa29eb9e0
Motherboard b450m:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FWVJSHC/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=officialplayt-20&amp;creative=9325&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;creativeASIN=B07FWVJSHC&amp;linkId=03d939e6c900ad1d464efe0d5d6debd0
16gb ddr4:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013J7T5K6/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=officialplayt-20&amp;creative=9325&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;creativeASIN=B013J7T5K6&amp;linkId=587e075b516aa67ce713e56880269e42
Case:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071G4KDKG/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=officialplayt-20&amp;creative=9325&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;creativeASIN=B071G4KDKG&amp;linkId=907220bf8b0d546c78a320479da603b3
SSD:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SBZ8YH/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=officialplayt-20&amp;creative=9325&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;creativeASIN=B073SBZ8YH&amp;linkId=172009589e458560e648468ff1d3acb9
Hard drive:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IEKG402/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=officialplayt-20&amp;creative=9325&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;creativeASIN=B01IEKG402&amp;linkId=984c09a08358f7d3c9b21e3ec43a4628
Power supply:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017HA3RGE/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=officialplayt-20&amp;creative=9325&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;creativeASIN=B017HA3RGE&amp;linkId=782918ec82dc113a674dc8c00e2330f4
Monitor:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JZ66T3/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=officialplayt-20&amp;creative=9325&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;creativeASIN=B072JZ66T3&amp;linkId=00371d03d25f086803507596282f2df5
16GB (2x8) G.Skill Trident Z https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06WP4L3D7/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Just note that I had to flash the BIOS to the latest version before I could get it stable and get my RAM up to 3000Mhz
I liked the WD Blue 3D NAND because it was fast, but also well priced. There are certainly faster SSDs out there (Samsung ones especially), but the price/performance/reliability combo I thought was pretty good.
I haven't had a problem like this. But I did have an issue with heavy teamfights that would make me crash (was able to get back into the game though.) So I decided to upgrade my PC. Was running a 7 year old GPU before and upgraded to 1660ti. Will sort me for the next 5-6 years just like the last.
But mainly and the thing that I believe will help you is getting an SSD. I installed the new SSD and did a fresh OS install on that(deleted OS off old HDD). Then just reinstalled Dota, steam and other main programs to run on the SSD. That way I had the speed and performance of the new SSD but still had all my files from my old HDD which is now my storage. I'd recommend the WD Blue 3D SSD( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SBZ8YH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). I went for 500GB but you can go for anything that you feel is enough for your OS and programs you want to run.
(I can't tell you how nice it is not crashing and also launching and being able to use my PC in 30 seconds compared to 15 minutes.)
Hope this helped man and wish you the best :)
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Edit: link
Beastly! Now just get a SSD trust me! I have a fairly decent machine, nowhere near that nice but I put in a 500g WD SSD and it made a huge difference. I run Windows from it and install games to it. I download dump to the 1TB.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073SBZ8YH/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527369874&amp;sr=1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65
And it’s a good price
get this WD Blue 3D NAND 500GB PC SSD
Well, if you're bound for cheap 2.5in 1TB SSD I would recommend this one from SanDisk https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D998212/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CVeqDb2QGZNJ9 at $100 or if you have an M.2 slot I'd actually recommend this Intel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GCL6BR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lYeqDb3014NGJ at $95
The psu is fine, its just i wouldnt cheap out and go lower than 650w. The reason why i said the ssd is overpriced is becasuse you can get double the storage for a little over 50% more such as here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GCL6BR4/?tag=pcpapi-20 I wanted to make sure you know its a qlc drive, as some people buy them without realizing that its not as good as a tlc nvme drive. Getting the 1tb is important imo because the QLC flash slows down alot when its full, and 500gb would fill up fast (at least with me it would)
Sorry for formatting, on mobile.
Also, the i5 is not a bad option and is not that far off of the i7. If you want to save the extra cash, it may be a good option for you.
As far as upgrade go, I got the m.2 1tb Intel nvme ssd.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GCL6BR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3i7pDb4NJFDQF
Amazing performance for a reasonable price. Then I put the internal 256gb ssd from the xps into an external m.2 enclosure to use as a USB drive. I got this enclosure and love it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HCPCMKN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_7AJi73n5Ddapg
And as far as upgrading the ram goes, this corsair kit should serve you nicely. Reasonably priced and solid performance from a reliable company.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MRBKYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Cl7pDbD4QNBDQ
This is all assuming that it's cheaper to upgrade yourself I haven't researched exact pricing for the xps 13 recently, but the resources are here for you if you need them :)
Not building a PC but replacing SSD
Which one should I get
Samsung 970 EVO 500GB for $90
or Intel SSD 660p Series 1 TB for $95
For reference, this is for a MacBook Air with current speeds 300MB/s write and 750MB/s read
Consider this one: https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07GCL6BR4/?tag=pcp06-21
It's faster than either of those you listed and doesn't cost much more. The BX500 isn't a good idea as it's quite likely to fail.
by 660p do you mean this: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-660p-1-0TB-80mm-978350/dp/B07GCL6BR4
Thank you very much!
>intel 660 1tb SSD
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-660p-1-0TB-80mm-978350/dp/B07GCL6BR4
Is this the link? That does look like a pretty sweet deal.
This drive is the current hotness for SSDs, because of it's price to performance. It is under $100 for 1TB.
SSDs in general are all extremely fast drives but the are limited by SATA speeds which max out at 600MB/s transfer rates in theory. M.2 drives use either multiple SATA lanes (which leaves you less to work with) or they PCIe lanes which have much more bandwidth, allowing them to work at upwards of 3500MB/s. So your typical SATA SSD is going to have reads and writes at around 450 MB/s in reality and your M.2 drives are going to have reads and writes in the 1500-3000MB/s depending on the quality of drive. The 660p isn't the best one out there, but your average consumer won't know the difference between that one and a $350 one, because the technology allows it to perform so well already. And for the most part, the higher in price you go is really only going to give you better write speeds, particularly when the drive is near capacity. At worst, cheap M.2 drives are still beating SATA drives regardless of high utilization.
Is this a good SSD? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GCL6BR4/?tag=pcpapi-20
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-660p-1-0TB-80mm-978350/dp/B07GCL6BR4/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=intel+660p&qid=1564691637&s=electronics&sr=1-1
this looks like a pretty good deal, would this be similar in speeds to the gammix s11 pro? that's another one i was looking at
Thank you so much for the reply. I was wanting to go with this 1TB Intel 660p series m.2 SSD drive. It says it is a 2281"
I know very little about this kind of thing. Obviously the numbers are off by 1 but are they essentially the same thing?
looks good only thing I would change out would be the ssd go for this it's cheaper and much faster
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-660p-1-0TB-80mm-978350/dp/B07GCL6BR4
This is an NVME for cheaper than the MX500. It's super high rated too. Might be able to sub this in. Thoughts? Intel SSD 660p Series (1.0TB M.2 80mm PCIe 3.0 x 4 3D2 QLC) 2 2281" (SSDPEKNW010T8X1 ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GCL6BR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZfohDbP68D4R2
This board (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HRZKPXM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) with this drive (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GCL6BR4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)