(Part 3) Best usb cables according to redditors
We found 6,307 Reddit comments discussing the best usb cables. We ranked the 1,529 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
I prefer my non Apple phone and their
$10$5, six foot, charging cables.Here are some of the chargers that are known to perform "GOOD" or "BEST" with the Switch.
---------
Best
Charger|Price (USD)|Link|Notes
--|--|--|--
Nintendo Switch AC Adapter|$29.99|Amazon US|This is the only charger you should use with the dock but it's big and doesn't work great with any phones
Google 18W Pixel charger|$35|Google Store|More portable than Nintendo's charger, great at charging phones too, 6ft detachable cable
Google 60W USB-C charger|$59.99|Google Store|Bundled with Chromebook Pixel 2, great for laptops, very long 12ft cable
Apple 61W USB-C charger|$69|Amazon US, Apple|Bundled with 2016 13" MacBook Pro, no cable included
Apple 87W USB-C charger|$79|Amazon US, Apple|Bundled with 2016 15" MacBook Pro, no cable included
RAVPower 26800mAh USB-PD battery|$74.99|Amazon US|Might charge much slower unless you turn off the Switch before plugging it in. Avoid the included bad AC adapter.
Here are some other links for the Pixel phone charger: Best Buy, UK version
---------
Good
Charger|Price (USD)|Link|Notes
--|--|--|--
Motorola TurboPower USB-C 15|$15.99|Amazon US|Non-detachable 5ft cable
SONEic 15W USB-C|$19.99|Amazon US|Detachable 3ft cable
HORI Switch car charger|$19.99|Amazon US|Probably the best car charger for now
Google 22.5W Dual Port USB-C charger|$39.99|Google Store|Two USB-C ports, includes one detachable 6ft cable
RAVPower 20100mAh USB-C battery|$57.99|Amazon US|
Apple 12W iPad USB charger|$19.99|Amazon US, Apple|Requires a USB A-to-C cable, better than any other USB-A chargers
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Cables
I won't list prices here since they fluctuate a lot. Some of the chargers listed above have a non-removable cable. All the others (except the iPad charger) require a USB C-to-C cable.
USB C-to-C: For the Macbook, Google, SONEic, and battery pack chargers listed above. Here are a few on Amazon: AmazonBasics,
Anker, Cable Matters, Aukey.
USB A-to-C: The iPad charger is the only one that gives good charging speeds with these. The 5ft cable included with the Pro Controller works. Here are some others on Amazon: AmazonBasics, Anker, Cable Matters, Aukey.
No matter which charger you use, it doesn't matter whether the cable says it's USB 2.0, USB 3.0, or USB 3.1. They all charge at the same speed. Just make sure it has the correct plug shape on each end, that it has good reviews at a reputable merchant, and that it's long enough for how you want to use it.
Gotcha buddy.
https://www.amazon.com/Console-Essential-Accesory-Ubiquity-Switches/dp/B01AFNBC3K/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=usb+serial+rj45&qid=1565091778&s=gateway&sr=8-3
This what I use. Imagine you are using Windows. Double check to make sure your serial port is showing up in hardware manager. If you can see the port in the program but it’s not connecting make sure the baud rates match.
Or you made need a USB to serial adapter if the array doesn’t have an rj45 comms port and has a db9 comms port.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Converter-Prolific-Chipset-CB-DB9P/dp/B00IDSM6BW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=usb+to+serial&qid=1565092473&s=gateway&sr=8-3
For the 2 sensors on the wall above the computer I'm using 10ft USB 3.0 extension cables. For the 3rd camera I'm using a 16.4ft USB 2.0 extension cable, as well as a 6ft USB 3.0 extension cable because the 2.0 cable wasn't long enough. I have all 3 cameras plugged into the same USB controller on the motherboard. Since I'm using a 2.0 extension cable, the 3rd camera is running via USB 2.0.
I'm using a 10ft HDMI extension cable and a 10ft USB 3.0 cable for the headset. The extension cables are electrical taped together and secured to my desk using velcro straps. I have the headset USB plugged into a PCI-E USB card I bought because I was running out of USB ports.
It's worth noting that for the first couple of days, I was getting occasional errors where the it said the headset was disconnected and I would have to unplug the USB and plug it back in. Since moving the headset to the USB on the PCI-E card (off the same controller as the sensors) I have not had this issue or any other issues to speak of.
6ft 3.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
16.4ft 2.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KY9M51O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
10ft 3.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
USB PCI-E Expansion Card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
10ft HDMI Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
5 things you can buy cheaper, elsewhere.
Seriously, how much do you think they're charge for that USB cable?
EDIT : To those saying USB type C is expensive, you're wrong.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Type-USB-C-Black/dp/B00S8GU544?th=1&psc=1
I would start by getting a receiver and downloading a simulation. It's a lot harder than most people may think. Once you're good at the simulator you can get a small quad for a low price. Personally I started with the Eachine Wizard . The receiver can be used on a PC using this
Very nice. I just got a Golf Alltrack SEL in Silk Blue Metallic (automatic) and have been mostly very happy so far. Everything just works as you think it would, the quality is rock solid, and the equipment level is astounding for the price you pay.
I had a rattle from the back that was pretty annoying: It turned out to be the rear cargo cover, so I took it out.
One small piece of advice: If you plan to use Android Auto
or Apple CarPlay, you'll need a good high quality USB cable. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07213D35X [update: I forgot iPhones use a proprietary connection; this will only work for Android phones.]Oh, and if you're in the U.S., I'm not sure if you know, but 2019 is the last model year for the 72 months/60,000 mile warranty. With 2020 models it is dropping to 48 months/50,000 miles (but including two years of free, factory-covered maintenance). I work from home and only drive 8,000 miles a year, so the old warranty is perfect for me.
Updated: So I posted on EDC 3 years ago back when I was working for a small Chicago based IT consulting firm with no flying that's the first photo. Second photo is my EDC I currently work for a very large Global Tech Consulting firm with weekly travel to the east coast.
I can include links to things if curious just ask.
not pictured:
Yes, I have all my cables extended.
Here are the USB cables I use for the sensor camera and HMD USB connections and [here is the HMDI coupler I use] (http://smile.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-Female-Coupler/dp/B00CJHXY0U?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00) plus a generic HDMI 6 feet cable from Monoprice I ordered some time ago (plus my 970 has a mini to norm HDMI dongle too). There is a USB extender cord packaged with the Rift that I use for the Xbox dongle.
Looks like all the dongles and extra cables work just fine.
I routed all the cables to the front so I can easily plug and unplug everything without crawling under the desk and scooting the PC around...
I think I would like a representation of the /r/kerbalspaceprogram auto-mod flair bot to be punched very much.
I'm in Orlando and don't fly home until Saturday, so I'd drop it in the mail then. This adapter appears to be of dubious build quality but is cheap and (when working) works fine.
$30 for this one but Blue makes fairly decent quality and reasonably priced audio components for home recording.
Here's a USB-A to USB-C cable for $6.95
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00S8GU544/
with this thing you can connect the usb stick in the micro usb port of the console, it don't have power limitation, so, you can use any usb stick what do you want, also, you can play with two controllers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDBPBTR/
How big is your planned playspace?
Additional sensors, cables to extend the headset USB/HDMI. Avoid going above 2m extenders as you may have issues and need HDMI repeaters.
PCI Card for people with substandard USB subsystems
These are the good cards which work for most people and are recommended by Oculus
StarTek 2 port card (1 controller) – Cheaper StarTek option that could be used for 2 sensors or a sensor and headset.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013HT6K3Q
Supported Inatek 4 port card (1 controller) – Don't get the 5 or 7 port card as the design is not really suited for Rift sensors.
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
Use the Inatek for your two front facing cameras and nothing else. Plug your third or fourth USB 2.0 camera and Rift HMD into your motherboard.
Supported StarTek 4 port card (2 Controllers) – Optional middle tier PCI card solution which can run all four sensors or 3 sensors and HMD. Equivalent to two Inatek cards.
https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00HJZE9VK
Supported StarTek 4 port card (4 Controllers) – Optional top of the range PCI card solution which can run all four sensors or 3 sensors and HMD. Equivalent to four Inatek cards.
https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00HJZEA2S
HDMI and USB Cables
2m HDMI cable that works for most extending the headset
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ519KC/
2m USB 3.0 cable that works for most extending the headset
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO
More cable options here - https://www.reddit.com//r/oculus/wiki/extension_cables
Edit: You again :) I've responded to 3 of your posts today :) Seems like you made a decision. Some more stuff below you could think about.
Replacement Interfaces, Covers and Foam Inserts
VR Cover is what you need when you have sweaty friends who leave your headset foam soaking wet and gross.
I'd recommend the new facial interface with easily swappable foam pads. Swap out that soaking wet foam in seconds for the next person using the Rift.
Alternatively you can go the cheap option of just a cover for the existing rift interface but it takes a bit longer (~30 seconds) to swap and is nowhere near as comfortable.
While the cheap option is great the newer facial interface and velour foam pads are much more comfortable and better than the stock foam.
All of the above are washable as well.
For glasses wearers that do offer the replacement interface in a "deeper" version but it may impact on the FOV (Field of View) of the Rift as your eyes are further from the lenses. I have never tried these.
Video explaining how they work and why they are different
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGeoPKTqKNo
Screen Protectors
These Healingshield 48mm curved watch face protectors work a treat if you want to protect the lenses from scratches. I was skeptical they might impact the visuals but I honestly can't notice them at all. Don't buy any cheap versions of these as they are usually flat and don't sit on the curved lenses of the Rift properly. These ones fit perfectly and have no issues with bubbling.
Mounting Sensors
If you want to mount the sensors in the corner of your room you can unscrew the sensors from their base and attach them to wall mounts.
If you have access to a 3D printer these. I use them for three of mine
or these
Get one of these, no adapters needed rj-45 to USB on the cable.
https://www.amazon.com/Asunflower%C2%AE-Cisco-Console-Cable-Windows/dp/B00RHDXDWA
It's funny you bring up minicom! It's one of those programs I completely forget about until I run into a hung up HP or Cisco switch. Sidenote this cable works out of the box with Linux http://amzn.to/2kEutDz I have one of these in the truck, one in my backpack, in my toolbag, and one in the shop at all times.
The thing that really has frustrated me about Solus is when we stack that distro next to the Ubuntus and the Archs of the world then we set people like the OP up for disappointment. That's sad to me because if you're not a heavy lifter in the distro world then the only way you really make it long term is if you are laser focused.
How many of us swear up and down by Clonezilla, or Khali Linux, BunsenLabs for example? When I need to clone a drive I don't even think of another tool, when I'm doing security and pen testing Khali Linux is THE standard, BunsenLabs lets me use my beloved and worshiped IBM ThinkPad 600x that I've had for 17 years.
They are all AMAZING practically irreplaceable distros and they will be around and successful for a long time because of that.
How many of us would use any of those as a daily driver distro, or compare them to Ubuntu? They can't really compete in that market and if they did we would all be worse off because we would loose out on those amazing laser feature sets that those distros DO offer.
In this entire discussion about if Solus could be a workstation daily driver we've missed what Solus is doing that NO other distro I've found is.
There is absolutely a market for that kind of distro. That market is not daily Ubuntu users, Arch users or Fedora users. It's users that want to treat their computer like an appliance because they need the computer to do that "one" or "two" things but those things are so critical it has to do them 100% of the time without failure. I've not found another distro that can meet that requirement.
You can just use any Braided micro USB cord. Like this one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SUX3XQC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DKgyxbV9HCY2E
No. What you said is:
> serial (ethernet type)
What you actually have is a serial cable with an RJ45 connector. This is not Ethernet. The serial cable requires a specific type of communication protocol, which is not compatible with Ethernet.
You need to buy a separate adapter. You can either buy a USB to DB9 connector, or if you're certain that all of your switches are RJ45 serial connectors, you can buy a direct USB to RJ45 serial connector like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Console-Essential-Accesory-Ubiquity-Switches/dp/B01AFNBC3K
I'm not sure which Surface you have, so I don't know what ports you have available to you. But you can just as easily buy USB-C adapters if you have a USB-C port.
I went with good old Amazon basic stuff. Works great , no problems at all
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH134L6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01D5H90L4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I remember reading when I was purchasing my phone. It was my first USB C. I read some articles about charging cables and this guy explained that not every cable is the same and has some sorta designs features for fast charging phones. I got this cable and never had a issue.
Belkin F2CU032bt06-BLK USB-IF Certified 2.0 USB-A to USB-C (USB Type C) Charge Cable, 6 Feet / 1.8 Meters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WJSPFOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vy-1DbGTB0JY8
Also get the proper charging block
My meta bought 4 of these and put them all around his house. I have a couple now too. They are great. Make sure you get one that charges all your partners and metamours phones - he first inadvertently bought one that didn't have USB-C on it so my phone didn't fit.
https://www.amazon.ca/Chafon-Charging-Smartphone-Supported-Devices-Black/dp/B01DK13VZ6/ref=sr_1_8/168-1657450-5000027?ie=UTF8&qid=1484941866&sr=8-8&keywords=phone%20charging%20cables
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-Type-C-Micro-B-Cable/dp/B01LONQ7R6/
​
You need a USB-C to Micro-B cable if you want to use it without an adapter.
If you can hard wire your 4K stick, that would probably fix your buffering issues. My 4K stick was on 5 Ghz, and the access point is 2 feet away from it but it would still buffer on a 20 GB 4K movie. Since I hardwired it, it cruises on 90GB 4K HDR movies.
I got these:
UGREEN Network Adapter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYTSN18
Rii F1 Micro USB Host OTG Adapter Cable - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDBPBTR/
AmazonBasics USB Type-C to Micro-B 2.0 Cable - 15.2 cm - Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01LONQ7R6/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_i_vRfZDbD63DAKY
£5.99. Its just about long enough with a Samsung A50 size phone, maybe 10mm or 20mm longer would give a bit if slack
I brought my printer to school too. I never regret it because my friends and I avoid the printing fees.
A couple things, Rice has a separate IoT WiFi network which is supposed to be for things like consoles, voice assistants, speakers, printers. Not sure if I know a single student who has got it working.
For your printer, you need to get a cable. Not only would it ensure no one fucks with your printer, I don’t think we’re ~technically~ allowed to use wireless capabilities on our personal printers. My wireless Brother printer became a wired one simply through one of these.
Most of us go with a power cable that has an on/off switch.
Here’s one on Amazon:
JBtek Raspberry Pi Micro USB Cable with ON / OFF Switch - Easy Start / Reboot !
Tl;dr Once you set up the router with an ip address, you can configure it via ssh/telnet using ethernet.
Current and newer Cisco routers/switches do have a mini-usb connector for console access. Personally, I purchased a console cable that has a built in Ftdi chip controller and usb.
https://www.amazon.com/Asunflower%C2%AE-Cisco-Console-Cable-Windows/dp/B00RHDXDWA
Get 32 for sure - no question. Google made kind of a joke with a 16GB option.
I bought this case for it and it feels and looks great plus it provides a ton of protection: www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B015L26GY0
I would recommend getting a USB A to C directly from Google - you KNOW it will work. If you cannot get one directly from Google, then get this Belkin A to C cable because it is actually up to spec: http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-6-Foot-USB-A-Charge-Certified/dp/B00WJSPFOW/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8
This doesn't really answer his question.
An audio interface takes an XLR input or inputs and outputs it to your computer via USB. A typical audio interface such as the Xenyx 302USB will provide some functions such as zero latency monitoring, phantom power and built-in preamp/s. There are also very simple audio interfaces like this XLR to USB cable or the many cheap USB soundcard dongles you find online (I wouldn't recommend either of these options unless you are using a dynamic microphone).
A standalone preamp takes the signal from your microphone and amplifies it to a usable signal before sending it to an audio interface. You do not need a standalone preamp to use an XLR microphone.
XLR microphones also sometimes require "phantom power", which many audio interfaces can provide (THE AFOREMENTIONED XLR TO USB CABLE DOES NOT PROVIDE ANY PHANTOM POWER). This is often labelled on a button on your interface as "+48". If your interface doesn't provide enough phantom power, you'll need to also purchase a phantom power supply. Your XLR microphone plugs into the phantom power supply, then from the phantom power supply, it connects to your audio interface.
How much voltage (phantom power) do you need for an XLR microphone?
Now finally, to answer your original question, what do you need to use an XLR microphone? You need:
dug it up on my amazon history:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GLR0T2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LJKEXS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
With this I run the two extensions out to the breakout box. I use the short USB cable to go from the extension into the breakout box, then I plug the breakout box into an outlet in my other playspace. Then plug the Vive in like normal.
Guitar - 1/4" instrument cable - USB cable - computer. Then you also will need to connect the Solo to headphones or speakers. With headphones I believe it is a 1/4" output, so you may want a 1/4" to 3.5mm converter for headphones.
you mean a power switch? they make USB power cables with a built in switch.
just be sure to properly shut down the pi before you turn it off.
example: dozens of them on Amazon.
JBtek Raspberry Pi Micro USB Cable with ON / OFF Switch - Easy Start / Reboot !
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JU24Z3W
My car doesn't turn off my Echo Auto either. I wasn't so much worried about the battery. The problem I had was that my phone kept trying to connect to the Auto via bluetooth while I was in my house. I ended up using this inline manual power switch and turn it off when I'm at home: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JU24Z3W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use Anker. It's braided so it's very durable and it's pretty long. I've had it for the past 8 months and it still works just as well as the day I bought it.
https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-Braided-Tangle-Free-Gold-Plated-Connectors/dp/B00SUX3XQC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482346014&sr=8-3&keywords=anker+micro+usb+cable
I've been using the Anker brand, braided cables since I got the phone and they've been awesome.
Anker 6ft / 1.8m Nylon Braided Tangle-Free Micro USB Cable with Gold-Plated Connectors for Android, Samsung, HTC, Nokia, Sony and More (Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SUX3XQC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_VgWNwbQ0R2W8S
I have this simulator cable from Amazon and it works great on my flysky transmitter and Windows 10 pc. There are also cheaper options from banggood if you are willing to wait
Look at this link right here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000FIS86U/
That will get you a used Cisco Catalyst WS-C2960G-48TC-L for around $150.
That is 48 ports of 10/100/1000 with no PoE (which your current TP-Link doesnt provide either).
But it runs real Cisco IOS.
We can troubleshoot the shit out of your current symptom with a switch like that.
Yeah, you'll need to spend a day or three learning how to configure & troubleshoot it.
But we can get you up and running in about one hour.
Just be sure to buy a USB to RJ45 console port adapter (and a spare is always wise) like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Console-Essential-Accesory-Ubiquity-Switches/dp/B01AFNBC3K/
These three are good travel power banks. With the required USB-C cables they all cost ~$35. The Anker is smallest/lightest, but will merely extend play time by a few hours. The RAVPower and Tronsmart are larger but will charge your Switch's battery as you play. Assuming a transatlantic I'd recommend one of those two to get the most play time.
RAVPower 20100 USB-C + USB-C to USB-C cable is right at your budget. Twice the capacity and a good charge rate, but bigger and heavier.
If you're willing to push your budget up by $10 check out the iMuto 20100 USB-C PD + USB-C to USB-C cable. Twice as much capacity and a fast charge even while playing.
EDIT: As to your question about charge capacity. The Switch's battery is 4310mAh. So a 10,000mAh power will should recharge it up to two times (so ~7.5 hours of Zelda combined). A 20,000mAh should recharge it at least 4 times (12.5 hours of Zelda).
What you are doing is dangerous, I strongly recommend you just throw that dongle away.
You CANNOT go from USB Type-C to any other type of port with a dongle. That is explicitly forbidden by the USB spec for good reason, as USB C can supply such high amounts of charge, converting blindly to other ports can cause fires.
The short answer to your problem, is you're going to need to buy a USB Type-C to mini/micro USB cable, and not a dongle. The cable will know it's only a mini/micro port and be incapable of charging at the full USB Type-C speeds, but it will charge your speaker properly.
The dongle you own is trying to trick the USB C cable into working with a different type of port, which is why it could be very dangerous because the USB cable itself doesn't know what type of charge to properly send.
If you want to use a dongle, you have to go the other direction, with micro/mini to USB C, which will then limit USB C to the slow charge speed that the cable can actually handle.
EDIT: Just to note, since your pictures are very vague. If that Samsung charger does not have a detachable cable, you'll also need a different charger, where the USB C cable is detachable.
Here are some suggestions to get you down to just a single charger and 1/2 cables:
Chargers:
Cables:
As a final note, you can also find dongles similar to what you have already, but they need to be the opposite of what you have. The dongle should always have the male part as USB Type-C, with the female part being Mini or Micro, such as this dongle. Just be aware whenever you do that, you're giving up some potential charging speed, as you're then limited to the older cable's specs. For example, that Samsung charger you have might be around 18w if it came with a phone or 30w if it came with a Chromebook, but if you charge with a micro cable, it would be limited to somewhere between 5-15w.
If you're really worried about the cable, here.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYS6E
It's cheap and USB-IF certified. You can look it up here:
http://www.usb.org/kcompliance/view/USB%20Type-C%20Cable%20Certifications.pdf
I got this one for free with one of my remotes.
I have two of these and they are both working great:
Rii F1 Micro USB Host OTG Adapter... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GDBPBTR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
speaking of the mojo, I'm having trouble getting it to work with my huwawi mate 20 pro in USB audio player pro using AmazonBasics USB Type-C to Micro-B
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LONQ7R6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vThPCbCPM8D60
is it a cable issue? or am I missing something?
Is this what you were looking for? I have one and it has been a lifesaver.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DK13VZ6/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
​
As an example of what you need:
[AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB-A Male 3.1 Gen2 Cable - 3 Feet (0.9 Meters) - White] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYS6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eM59Bb70TGHNN)
I'd look on apple.com, but it's down right now.
Edit: apple.com version
Sure, it was this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07213D35X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Same problem here.
Using this cable - https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-USB-Male-Cable/dp/B01GGKYS6E/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Go to settings, connected devices and look at USB. When this cable is connected to a USB 3.0 port, it's greyed out and charging only. When connected to a 2.0 port, it detects the USB connected and allows to to change the setting (IE charge only, transfer files).
CC for those previously involved:
/u/cookiepolice
/u/Devil_Vagina_Magic
EDIT: Tested on a second PC, and same exact results. Works on USB 2.0 port, but not on 3.0.
Not sure why you would necessarily need so many ports. When I travel I carry this RAVpower battery and a multi-USB converter. Currently I carry my MacBook Pro USB-C charger to charge the battery/laptop (I hardly use the battery for laptop power), and have funded this Kickstarter with the hopes of replacing that as well. I suppose my laptop is a svelte 13" rMBP and if I had something beefier this configuration would leave me wanting
Here' the link. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003BMS5LK/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473348368&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65
I think the cable is this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BMS5LK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you want to future-proof your setup, go with something XLR based, and later down the road you can upgrade and replace stuff on the cheap.
I personally use an AT2020-XLR on a cheap mic stand that comes with a shock mount and built in cable (gets a bit squeaky after a few months of use, but only when fully retracting it), piped through a phantom power supply and an XLR to USB cable
A really good mic to go with would also be the ATR 2100 as it is both XLR and USB. It's a dynamic mic, so background noise won't be much of an issue. The price point is great, and it would be easy to expand on later. I personally have no experience with the mic, so take that as you will.
Generally HDMI is good to about 50 feet.
I would get a good 50 foot cable like this.
USB is good to 16 feet. You can get a USB active repeater that will add an additional 32 feet.. So as long as your rig is under 50 you should be okay.
US links for those in the states:
http://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-Female-Active-Extension-Repeater/dp/B005LJKEXS
http://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-Cable-1080p-Speed-Ethernet/dp/B008U7SLJW
I play Battlefield 1 on Xbox and will give you my setup:
I can't tell I'm not playing on PC.
absolutely but only very few HDMI and USB are actually working correctly with the Oculus. Let me find the ones that I got off amazon that work. A few months ago there was a thread with all the working USB and HDMI cables that are compatible if the 2 I link are not sufficient.
edit: found it company "cable matters" provides both USB and HDMI not just USB
On a side note. lots of people are finding ways to tie down the cable on the desk or down low. Just incase you do yank on it you don't damage your pc by having it fall over while running.
edit 2: If memory serves, not all lengths work from each company, something about supplied power?!?!? But I do know that the 2 I linked are 6 ft and both work with oculus.
I used these, 6 ft extension cables from my PC up to the corner:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use this:
http://www.amazon.com/JBtek-Raspberry-Micro-Cable-Switch/dp/B00JU24Z3W/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1465241282&sr=1-2&keywords=raspberry+pi+3+power+cable+switch
Generally I shut it down first before switching it off.
I solved the constant power issue with this cable
JBtek Raspberry Pi Micro USB Cable with ON / OFF Switch - Easy Start / Reboot ! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JU24Z3W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G-wADbE85XQRN
Buy one of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT0072/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the extension cables I use
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H90L4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH134L6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
Lastly, if you still have issues with 90hz even after buying the HDMI adapter then its probably also a power issue and you will need one of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm having the same issue with a 2018 Mercedes. I had a Pixel 2 with no issue, the Pixel 3XL was fine for awhile and now won't connect. It appears so resent update has caused the AA to no longer work or sync. I tried several cables and one connected for a minute and then the app crashed on the phone. It appears to be something with USB and the handshake process. The USB will only allow charging at times and when it tries to connect it says it failed on the car. I have reset everything on the phone, same issue. Even tried going back 1 version of AA, no luck. If you try to change the USB to MIDI or tether, AA tries to start again but then it fails to connect. Google has broken something and it is really frustrating!
​
UPDATE: I have tested this with various configurations and different AA versions. Google definitely changed something in regards to the reading if the USB port. I ordered 6 different cables and went to Mercedes to have the head unit updated. They did have an update, but it still didn't work. What did work, a new cable but ONLY a USB 3.0 cable. I ordered the USB 3.0 cable from Anker and it worked. Other cables from Anker did not. It appears it must be USB 3.0 and it now works again. Hope this helps!
This is from the AA team at Google:
We have some USB cable recommendations:
(*The links go to www.amazon.com: It’s for your reference. You can find them elsewhere This is not a Promo! :)
If you have Pixel phones, Pixel accessory USB-C to USB-A cable would also work well.
You need a USB C Cable to charge it. They sell it on Amazon. I bought this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S8GU544/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use this cable all the time, it works fine.
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Braided-Tangle-Free-Gold-Plated-Connectors/dp/B00SUX3XQC/
Sometimes I use this charger, it also works fine. The Surface 3 never draws more than 2.4A.
The Surface 3 charger is over rated (meaning it's specs are higher than needed).
https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Anker-Charger-PowerPort-iPhone/dp/B01LCDJ7LG
"From Best Buy"
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-USB-IF-Certified-Charge-Meters/dp/B00WJSPFOW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484515301&sr=8-2&keywords=belkin+usb-c
This is the cable I use, it was plug and play with my Win 7 PC and Liftoff/FPV Freerider. It's a shame it jumped up in price to $15, I paid $10.
https://www.amazon.com/RCmall-Flight-Simulator-Adapter-Flysky/dp/B01AAETLVY/ref=pd_sim_21_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01AAETLVY&pd_rd_r=JJYFZ6YYXMDF52ABDKFP&pd_rd_w=Ja8V3&pd_rd_wg=na9xB&psc=1&refRID=JJYFZ6YYXMDF52ABDKFP
RCmall Usb Flight Simulator Adapter Cable with 2.4G for fms Flysky SM100
That's what I use with my fs-i6x and FPV Freerider. Works perfectly
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAETLVY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
As long as it has a trainer port on the back, this should work.
USB Console Cable USB to RJ45 Cable Essential Accesory of Cisco, NETGEAR, Ubiquity, LINKSYS, TP-LINK Routers/Switches for Laptops in Windows, Mac, Linux (Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AFNBC3K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SNCKBb8F54K4K
You need a USB to serial adapter, like https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Converter-Prolific-Chipset-TU-S9/dp/B0007T27H8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499385175 or https://www.amazon.com/Console-Essential-Accesory-Ubiquity-Switches/dp/B01AFNBC3K/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1499385175&sr=8-8&keywords=usb+to+serial+adapter . Anything with Prolific will work, or SiLabs (also seen in Cygnal stuff). Both have OSX drivers. I think the Prolific drivers may be built in these days.
Anyway - Install the drivers and then you can use screen or other tools to attach to the tty, e.g.
screen /dev/tty.<something> 115200. All the USB to serial stuff will generally present as a TTY device in /dev.here you go.
I don't have the LED in it right now though. But it attaches with Velcro inside and has a little remote with it.
here's the charger
Not the exact LED but similar
Lindy for cheap: https://www.amazon.com/Lindy-Coiled-Cable-Transparent-31925/dp/B003BMS5LK/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=lindy+cable&qid=1563121194&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Zap Cables: https://zapcables.com/
Pexon: https://pexonpcs.co.uk/
Clark Kable: https://clarkkable.com/
Just to name a few.
Thanks! It's a coiled Lindy cable. It is only $10 in germany but still quite expensive.
http://www.amazon.com/Lindy-Coiled-Cable-Transparent-31925/dp/B003BMS5LK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1457082469&sr=1-1&keywords=lindy I got it when it was like 15 bucks, its usually on prime price for 8!
Lindy 2m USB 2.0 Coiled Cable, Type A to mini B, Transparent (31925) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BMS5LK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KIwBzb4H4BCA6
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BMS5LK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3QAPSUWTRR1KS&coliid=I22TOG32B6AWMN
Thanks! The keyboard is a Keycool 87 with Logitech G710 keycaps. The cable I’m using is a LINDY Coiled Cable.
I'm pretty sure that mic needs an XLR cable and some kind of mixer or audio interface that plugs into your computer. I could be wrong but I don't think the XM8500 is usb.
It seems you need to keep $ low so something like this would probably work:
https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Female-Cable-Instruments-Microphones/dp/B0050CEEIW
Though something like this would be much better:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Icicle-Converter-Preamp/dp/B001EW5YQS
Does the mic have a non-permanent cable? if it does, you could use something like this usb to xlr cable.
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Female-Cable-Instruments-Microphones/dp/B0050CEEIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398841494&sr=8-1&keywords=USB+to+XLR
Or if its a permanent cable, maybe something like these
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1398841671&sr=8-8&keywords=USB+to+mic
http://www.amazon.com/iLuv-USB-Audio-Adapter-iCB758WHT/dp/B007PFZEKY/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1398841671&sr=8-9&keywords=USB+to+mic
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Icicle-Converter-Preamp/dp/B001EW5YQS
This is a little better option.
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-feet-XLR-Female-Cable/dp/B0050CEEIW
This is really inexpensive, but will work.
Keep in mind, you get what you pay for with most things of this nature.
It's probably one of those 3 pin mics right? Those are XLR mics, and it probably is better quality.
HDE USB to XLR Microphone Instrument Karaoke Cable 3 Pin XLR Female to USB 2.0 Male MIC Link Adapter (10ft/3m) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050CEEIW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_c4W4ybWBR8PAE
You'll need that at the minimum to get it to work. You'll need to boost the audio in your editor though it'll be hella quiet.
Later on you'll need phantom power to get the volume where you want it but that requires another piece of kit.
Not the end of the world, it'll be ok man
Edit: mobile autocorrect is fun
I have one that looks like your picture and is an audio cable. The thick part at the usb end contains an audio converter.
It was cheap. It sounds cheap, but it works.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050CEEIW/ref=mlt_B000H7O9ZI_B0050CEEIW
> Welcome! Another way to receive while you're learning is through the use of web SDRs or buying your own SDR (an RTL SDR dongle can be had for even less than the baofeng!) that way you can also listen to HF frequencies.
u/TheInsomniac03: Linky links:
You can use up to 2 of the extensions for each RTL-SDR you have, to put it in a better spot for receiving signals, and away from the RF noise of your PC. The bandwidth of the RTL-SDR is 2 MHz so you will need 2 of them to cover the entire 2 meter band. To get started, you don't need anything except 1 RTL-SDR in the first link. You can get other stuff later if you decide you like it and you want more.
Like others, I've used these: https://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-Female-Active-Extension-Repeater/dp/B005LJKEXS/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1535800693&sr=1-4&keywords=usb+extension+cable+25+ft
For both smarboards and printers. Been a few years, no issues that I can think of. Powered usb is probably overkill for my purposes.
This is the 10m version of the brand I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LJKEXS
I bought a 32' USB extension:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LJKEXS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It works great. When you buy a long one, just be sure it's "active".
You can't extend your configuration with standard cable extension more than 5m before encountering problem with quality/signal loss.
You must use specific materials, for instance:
You can take a look at this excellent article for more informations:
http://www.rainfold.com/blog/how-to-extend-vive-pc-distance.html
I bought these two cables from amazon: Cord into the brain and the cord into my Android tablet/phone. You'll need to buy an iPhone equivalent cord, like this one. I had to remove the bottom piece of the plastic mount from the bottom of the snare to fit it into the stand. It's held on by three phillips head screws and comes off clean with no other connections involved.
I bought the smallest diameter snare stand I could find at Sam Ash. I'm pretty sure this is the one. You don't really need to separate your snare from the kit if you have good technique (I don't), but after awhile the false triggers on the other pads from my snare hits and the pad coming loose and rotating got annoying. Before I bought the snare stand, I put a piece of PVC pipe from under the snare pad to the floor to give it some additional support. This stopped the pad from rotating, but didn't do much for the crosstalk.
It's a good little kit for the money. I need to upgrade to the kick pad like you have. I don't like the feel of the pedals I have, but putting some extra compression springs under each pedal helped a lot. Got them at Lowe's for about $5. I just popped them into the same place the factory springs are with no issues.
My traveling kit is a Roland TD-9 with a VH-11 hi hat. Stuff gets expensive quick, especially with edrums, but it's really portable and my bandmates like the features the e-kit brings. I'd love to have the room and lack of neighbors for an acoustic kit one day, though.
edit: found a better iPhone cord for you.
You need two cables. A 'camera connection kit' to connect to the iphone.
https://www.apple.com/shop/product/MD821AM/A/lightning-to-usb-camera-adapter
And a USB A to B (printer cable) to connect that to the piano.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BCWALHM
Apple retired their 30 pin connector in favor of their 'lightning' connector some years ago. The iphone 6s plus uses the newer lightning connector. If you have a laptop or android device you should be able to get software on one of those if all you are looking to do is record your playing. You only need an iphone/ipad if you are specifically looking to use Yamaha's apps.
Not to push amazon, but this cable would work and any ferrite core for that size cable would be good, i would grab 2 one about 6 inch off the end and one just inside the cable storage area.
This belongs in the purchase help thread.
But since I'm here.
https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00BCWALHM
If you're talking about the DDJ-SX2, it should just be a standard USB A-B cable. Like this one for instance. Can find it at pretty much any electronics store, wal-mart, etc. Sometimes labeled as a USB Printer Cable
Have both a pro cable and regular usb. Not worth it, does nothing special. It's a lock-in fit. If somebody trips on your regular usb cable, the cable will just pop out, the pro cable will yank your stick to the floor. Here's a good quality 16 ft USB cable for 6 bucks, that's right 6 bucks.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BCWALHM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
Just a regular [A male to B male usb] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BCWALHM/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) the ones you use for printers and such.
Here are the links for all the extras I bought to set it up.
(the 16 ft extension is the one that came when I ordered my oculus.)
I can confirm that these 2 cables work together. (16ft.) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017COHTJ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Oculus Link: Working 6m/20ft Cable For $19!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tNVmk-qywnk&t=68s
Why don't you just get a PS with removable cord, and a switched micro usb cable?
Alternately, you could get something from Mausberry made specifically for the pi.
I have this one which is a dollar more but with free shipping for Prime members, works great: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JU24Z3W/
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JU24Z3W/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687402&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00GGX94JI&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0Q7NXVTC1M50PEWVX2HS
I've been using a DP to HDMI Converter in combination with an 1 meter HDMI extension cable and a 2 meter USB 3.0 extension cable.
I'm not sure about the HDMI cable it was laying around at home, i bought the DP->HDMI Converter and the USB extension on Amazon https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01M8PXNP4, https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00NH134L6.
I use this to get the required connections on the front of my PC to remove the headset when i let my cat in xD and for more comfort :D
I don't see any changes in performace with the extensions used.
7 foot one, (2meters) i bought a couple and they never gave me trouble with anything.
Edit: here’s a link https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH134L6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523240323&sr=8-3&keywords=Amazon+basic+USB+extension
It’s on amazon.com aswell
This one is the shortest one I'm using(6.5ft) without issues.
If it helps you at all, I ordered a 6' AmazonBasics HDMI extension and a 6' AmazonBasics USB 3 extension and tried them last night and they work absolutely fine. I can literally walk anywhere in my room now and I didn't even have to move my PC :)
I also really like how these should now act as a quick release so if my kids were to pull on the cables too far or something, it should come apart there instead of pulling on my PC. Here are the links to the ones I ordered...
HDMI: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H90L4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
USB: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH134L6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
People seem to think the apple cables suck. Mine have never failed. But anyways I just get a usb extender like
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NH134L6/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1466815545&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=usb+extender&dpPl=1&dpID=41Z2KFNsfLL&ref=plSrch
And attach the apple cable to it. I find that works for me
Sure, that was on the german website though.
https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B00A30FLE2/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B00NH134L6/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lots of people have issues with Extension cables. I had to go through several sets until I found a combo that works. Cannot guarantee it will work, but is good for me (USB 3.0 seems to be pretty finicky)
USB cable - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH134L6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
HDMI Cable -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQB2XO6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
wont Guarantee it will work because Geofff from Microsoft said that there is a lot of variance in the USB ports themselves when it comes to power delivery. WMR does not officially support extensions.
I can say I have been using my extensions without issue for several months now.
So some tips to get going:
enable
configure terminal
ip domain-name <enter something here>
int vlan # <-- This should be 1 if you're not going to be using vlans, otherwise give it an address on the vlan you want to use for management, and make sure the port your connecting to to manage the switch is on the same vlan or has access to that vlan via a trunk.
ip address <enter an IP address>
description is Managment Address
line vty 0 15
logging synchronous <-- if you get terminal messages while configuring it dispays what you've started typing after the message on a new line.
transport input telnet ssh <--- Can do just SSH if you don't want telnet access
exit
ip ssh version 2 <-- forces SSH 2 instead of older SSH1
crypto key generate rsa modulus 1024 <--may need to run this as just crypto key generate rsa, then enter the modulus at the prompt. I'd do 1024, or 2048, never the default of 512 (some would argue its too weak)
You should be able to SSH to that management IP now.
Recommend you purchase a serial console cable in case that happens again. That way you can recover the switch without needing to reset it to default settings.
This cable has worked well for me:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RHDXDWA/
There is a "console cable" used in networking and servers that is serial data in a Ethernet 8p8c (RJ-45) connector footprint. There are USB to Ethernet serial controllers. The one I have for my network lab is on Amazon and will run native in the Pi.
It's https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RHDXDWA/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o1_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is my favorite, and will work with the factory power block.
Cable Matters USB C to USB C Cable (USB Type C Cable/USB-C Cable) in Black 9.8 Feet for Samsung Galaxy S9/S8/Note 8, LG G6/V30, Nintendo Switch, Google Pixel/Nexus 5X/6P and More https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B071NFTWWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cTo5Bb3H5VGRD
This one has served me well in the truck.
Cable Matters USB-C Cable (USB A to USB C Cable / USB C to USB Cable) in Black 6.6 Feet https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00S8GU544/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vUo5BbVJ9P5K9
As I look back through my Amazon orders, all the cables I still have are from cable matters, and all my recent duds have been from cable creations.... Interesting.
I did try a few that didn't end up working. This is the one that works best for me
As an added bonus, my cats don't chew on the nylon wire for whatever reason.
First off, you should add me on Steam (I'm wigriff everywhere, but it might show J.C.Wigriff on Steam).
Questions:
Stocking Stuffer Ideas:
Since this is totally subjective, and you haven't provided criteria for who we're buying stocking stuffers for (Mom, Kids, Geeky Cousin Ted, etc.), I'm going to make my list very general so that it would fit anyone.
It was very nice to meet you. :)
Anker 6ft / 1.8m Nylon Braided Tangle-Free Micro USB Cable with Gold-Plated Connectors for Android, Samsung, HTC, Nokia, Sony and More (Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SUX3XQC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_CRwHwb6R66KE0
You specifically want the Anker Braided ones: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Braided-Tangle-Free-Gold-Plated-Connectors/dp/B00SUX3XQC?th=1
I don't even have one that shows wear yet.
Personally, I went with this Anker Cable.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SUX3XQC?vs=1
Sorry for the long read but...
I have a 32GB Sandisk USB Drive connected to my PSTV. And I completely agree that it is a headache, i have to pull it to the front of my tv stand unplug it then plug it in just to mount it each time. It is very annoying but ive been considering buying a USB Power Switch like this one: USB Power Switch That’s just the first one that came up on amazon. But anything like that would be the fix possibly for it. As long as it thinks the PSTV doesnt have anything plugged into it. But it would be alot easier to flip a little switch on and off then unplugging a cord then having to plug it back in. The only concern i have is the speed of the transfers over said switch may be slower (may be USB 1.0 or 2.0) if it even has data transfer in it, not just power. All these things im not sure of but there is certainly one that is out there to help.
Sorry again for the long spiel i just wanted to get my point across.
https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-Male-Female-Cable-Switch/dp/B00UR321B6
I bought this Belkin one from Amazon which is USB-C compliant and it's 6ft
I use it with a Nexus 5x charger and a Anker 10.000mah battery pack and it charges rapidly in both.
Some USB C cables and chargers are better than others. This spreadsheet has some notable good ones and bad ones:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1vnpEXfo2HCGADdd9G2x9dMDWqENiY2kgBJUu29f_TX8/pubhtml
I'd just stick to Google, Apple, and Belkin to be safe.
Additional Google 18w chargers:
https://www.groupon.com/latest-deals/gg-18w-plug-adapter-with-cable
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/google-18w-usb-c-power-adapter-white/6124709.p?skuId=6124709 (25% off if you buy 3 accessories)
Cheap USB C to A cables (to plug into car chargers, etc):
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-USB-IF-Certified-Charge-Meters/dp/B00WJSPFOW/
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Including-Matebook-Nintendo/dp/B01A6G0CTQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511413472&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=anker+usb-c+to+usb-c
You need a USB C --> USB C cable for the Rapid Charging. I just bought this cable from amazon and I have a car charger coming
huh. I'm having exactly the same problem. Started a few weeks ago after I used an A-C adapter. Won't charge from any native USB-C source. I need to call Google one of these days, I haven't bothered yet.
N6P.
I've got a weird issue.
I bought this micro->C adapter and this portable battery at the same time. Plugged in the C-C cord, charged my phone perfectly. I plug in the micro->C adaptor on a micro cord, charges fine. I plugged into my factory charger...nothing. This elicited a nice "wtf?" moment. But I was going out of town, so I used the micro cord and the adapter, worked fine during the trip.
Got home. Factory charger still isn't working. I flip the C-C cord around, and the charging icon quickly flips between lightning bolt and nothing. Another "WTF?" moment.
Well, maybe the cord went bad or something. Grab this charger and a new C-C cord. New charger and new cord doesn't charge at all. New cord on factory charger doesn't charge at all. Old cord on new charger doesn't charge at all.
Take it out to the car. 2.4A type C, no charging at all.
3 different USB-A chargers charge it fine with the micro-C adapter on several different A-micro cords, including the new Anker charger. The factory A-C cord does work fine.
What
The
Fuck
?
Did the micro->C adapter break something? And if so, why does the phone still charge fine when using it? Anything that would be rapid charging (>2.1A) fails completely. Anything not rapid charging works fine. RMA time?
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Including-Nintendo-ChromeBook/dp/B01A6G0CTQ/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492695841&amp;sr=8-18&amp;keywords=anker+usb+c+cable
There's a 3ft and 6ft
Can anyone verify that these fit properly and actually charge the phone? I bought some anker usb c cables from amazon that were advertised to fit my OP2, but they didn't. Upon connecting to my phone, they only went in 90% and didn't charge. I had to put a considerable amount of force for it to plug in, which wasn't worth it. I called anker and returned them. Now these monoprice cables look exactly like the anker ones. I'm worried these won't fit because the actual USB C port on the stock OnePlus cable has three silver prongs that are of equal size, while the anker and possibly this cable have a middle prong of much smaller size.
http://i.imgur.com/Dwbty7K.jpg
I have these and can verify that they all Turbo Charge the X4, should work fine for the 5X as well:
Double reply so you get a notification about this.
Using an old car charger (2.4A) with a proper USB-A -> USB-C 3.0 cable (this one https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6F3WHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) charged my phone from 60% to 100% in roughly 1 hour. The phone never said "charging rapidly" either, so you're not getting Power Delivery with that. I am buying a proper USB-C car charger later this week, I can DM you with an update on that.
Edit: Adding this as well in case someone else is looking for this info, but this what I dm'd OP:
Alright so I bought this cable: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6G0CTQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 and this car charger https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079MWXSS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
They both work great, fast charging and everything.
For what it's worth, this is also a good power bank: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079Z4RHZZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I just bought this cable from Amazon. I'm hoping it works and will update when it comes in tmorw. The description says it will work with the FS-i6.
I recently bought myself a Flysky FS i6X transmitter for about $50 and this cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAETLVY?ref%5F=oh%5Faui%5Fdetailpage%5Fo02%5Fs00&amp;redirect=true&amp;psc=1&amp;pldnSite=1
Plugged it into my Mac last night (just got the transmitter yesterday) and it works perfectly with both FPVFreerider and Liftoff. Maybe ask him if he would be interested in that. Tell him you will get him that stuff (and maybe a HubsanX4 to fly for real) and when he gets good with the sim, you can get him a better higher end quad. Once I get good with the sim, I'm going to get this: http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-Wizard-X220-FPV-Racing-Drone-Blheli_S-F3-6DOF-2205-2300KV-Motors-5_8G-48CH-200MW-VTX-ARF-p-1085802.html?rmmds=search with some goggles. I've always wanted to do FPV and then get an action cam to attach to it so I can record video. I'm personally not really into "racing" quads around, I just want to fly and take cool video.
>and a gaming PC with an asus z170 board I'd like to use as my console.
You don't access the console full-time. Usually you just use the console cable for:
Once the switch is set up, you just access it via its management IP over something like SSH.
>there is no way to connect a DB9 to RJ45 console cable to my board
I'm assuming your board has USB, and the switch comes with a console cable it looks like, so you can use either:
I use the latter. With an RJ45->DB9 adaptor, I'm able to connect to basically any switch, new or old.
Read the whole thing.
You will need a console cable if it didnt already come with one.
You need a USB to serial adapter. That just changing the pins. This is what your looking for...
https://www.amazon.com/Console-Essential-Accesory-Ubiquity-Switches/dp/B01AFNBC3K/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=cisco+console&qid=1573919372&sr=8-1
Not OP, but here is a similar one I have https://www.amazon.com/CHAFON-Multi-Cable-Lightning-Charging/dp/B01DK13VZ6
I recently bought one on Amazon for $8, very nifty piece of tech
I'm currently using a chafon cable to charge my pixel 3.
There are some USB outlets at my work, so I just plug in the USB into the outlet and the type c into my phone and it charges with no problem.
https://www.amazon.com/CHAFON-Multi-Cable-Lightning-Charging/dp/B01DK13VZ6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540406037&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=chafon+cable&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=415EMZy%2BWmL&amp;ref=plSrch
first i got this:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCJUM6K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
which lasted a while till i accidentally got it drenched riding a fourwheeler and it died.
so i replaced it with this:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079Z4RHZZ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
i prefer the new one cause it has 2 full size usb out spots, so i can keep a usb-c in one for my phone, and then i have one of these:
https://smile.amazon.com/Charging-Chafon-Charge-Connectors-Charging-2/dp/B01DK13VZ6/ref=sr_1_3?s=wireless&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542288733&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=usb%2Bc%2Bmicro%2Bmini%2Blightning&amp;th=1
in the other side for charging misc things until the rest of the tech world gets their act together with the usb c standard.
Review of several, even different styles, with links, here.
Amazon link to the one closest to yours
It's basically the same as this
https://www.amazon.com/Chafon-Multi-Cable-Lightning-Charging/dp/B01DK13VZ6
the USB A is the input and the other ones are the outputs for charging, the female USB is probably just an unused hole in the plastic
I bought this multi cable usb adapter and an aftermarket charging cable, cut the extra usb micro off and soldered the end of the garmin one on. works fine with any device that may be with me and eliminates multiple cables from my bags.
I just tried to see if it would charge my phone and it does. Naturally the "quick-charge" didn't kick in, but it did start standard charging. Another way to test is to have one controller plugged into the player 1 slot & the 2nd controller plugged into the OTG cable. Just boot into stock and see if the 2nd controller is able to control the system when connected via the OTG usb slot. If not, then it's either the OTG cable - or not enough power is being supplied to the cable/system. Can you try a few different power sources to rule that out if you haven't already? Try a couple different phone chargers, the USB port on your TV if it has one, and also a couple different USB ports on your desktop/laptop. If all of those sources still fail to power the controller or charge your phone.... then it's absolutely the cables & I'd get a refund and either order the same cable I did from the link I posted above, or you can try your luck with one of these:
&#x200B;
For the top one be sure you get the Left-Angled version. For the bottom one, Right-angled is correct. Don't know why some manufacturers label them oppositely. Shrug.
https://www.amazon.com/CHENYANG-Adapter-Galaxy-Tablet-Angled/dp/B00M7X6XNG/
or
https://www.amazon.com/Fun-Home-Female-Adapter-SamSung-Features/dp/B013ENTY9M/
&#x200B;
Edit: Here's another cable people have had good luck with.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDBPBTR/
I use this one and I love it: https://www.amazon.com/Rii-Firestick-Compatible-Logitech-Keyboards/dp/B07GDBPBTR/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?keywords=otg+cable&amp;qid=1563660426&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=otg&amp;sr=8-11
I honestly now think we were just unlucky and got a bad batch of otg cables. Someone recommended me this one as it's apparently high quality https://www.amazon.com/Rii-Firestick-Compatible-Logitech-Keyboards/dp/B07GDBPBTR but they dont post to where i live. =/
Durability-wise, usually Anker's Powerline+ cables are good, but the ones with nylon-wrapping don't seem to support USB 3.1. If you're okay with not having the nylon-wrapping, this one supports USB 3.1.
I use this one: AmazonBasics USB Type-C to Micro-B 2.0 Cable - 6 Inches (15.2 Centimeters) - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LONQ7R6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LV3vCbMCVECVH
I have a cable on the way from Amazon for this purpose, since I will have to connect my new iPad to my 2013 MacBook Pro.
Here it is: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-USB-Male-Cable/dp/B01GGKYS6E
You do know that they make cables that do exactly that, right?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-USB-Type-C-Micro-B-Cable/dp/B01LONQ7R6
You could plug one end of this into the GMMK, then the other end into your Macbook. It's all "clean." The cable that comes with the GMMK isn't hardwired into it.
I believe it is an older version of a chafon cable
I started a thread in the Lenovo forums a few months ago and we were asked to provide bug reports and phone and car unit information, but as today no solution has been provided from Motorola.
Some users suggested using different cables. I tried most of the suggested cables but the problem didn't want to go away. Then someone suggested this Amazon cable (AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB-A Male 3.1 Gen2 Adapter Charger Cable - 3 Feet (0.9 Meters) - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYS6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ew0iDbC14VGG5) and I was not going to try it since the other cable suggestions didn't work. But I went ahead and ordered it anyway and just like other people have reported, I haven't had a disconnection since.
Ordered these:
Will report back this week.
If you take a picture of both ends I could tell you if it's our cable. Have you also tried connecting it to other USB 3.0 ports or flipping around the USB C connector?
Otherwise, there are other third party cables we've tested with our HD60 S.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGKYS6E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXFJANY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have a few others that are promising but have't done enough testing with.
The link to my dongle is under "Third Party Hub". I am using a USB 3.1 cable, don't know the brand. I've had it for a little while.
I'd try this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Adapter-Charger-Cable/dp/B01GGKYS6E/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=usb+a+to+c+data&amp;qid=1569786694&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYS6E
I use this one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDBPBTR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here's one that is still available and does basically the same thing, at least, seems to:
https://www.amazon.com/Rii-Firestick-Compatible-Logitech-Keyboards/dp/B07GDBPBTR
I just ordered this Anker A-to-C cable, USB 3.1 Gen2, USB-IF Certified. £8
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07213D35X/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I had the same issue. It occurred a few days after I upgraded AA. At any rate, I tried all of the suggestions, up to and including resetting my CRV system back to factory settings. Finally, I found the solution that completely fixed the issue: I upgraded to a newer USB cable. Since I bought and connected with Anker Powerline II USB-C to USB 3.1 Gen2 Cable(3ft) AA works perfectly again.
Mine works with this USB C to A cable and the USB C to A cable that came with this power bank. That's all I've tried it with.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07213D35X?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
That's the one I currently have and it works perfectly.
https://www.amazon.com/Rii-Firestick-Compatible-Logitech-Keyboards/dp/B07GDBPBTR/ref=sr_1_24?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1550131419&amp;sr=8-24&amp;keywords=usb+otg
You'll need an OTG cable just like this.
If you are a big spender, this one costs 5 cents more but looks much nicer.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GDBPBTR/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_Uy0nDb6RAMBZE
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GDBPBTR?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details
This is the cable that I use
And you have problems with the 2A one? (That's the only one you should be using)
If the power adapter is good and the usb stick is not the problem, then the problem may be with the OTG cable
This is a high quality one
https://www.amazon.com/Rii-Firestick-Compatible-Logitech-Keyboards/dp/B07GDBPBTR
Thanks so much for all your great work an incountless dedicated hours, Kyland God!!!
Everything is working here with no exceptions (played multiple games for hours):
Firstly I did a Kernel reset as seen in one of your last videos https://youtu.be/f1dYzSn480A
Keep on going!!
OP - have you seen a usb otg that works with fire 4k yet?
https://www.amazon.com//dp/B07GDBPBTR
also, most otg's are marketed to work with mice/keyboard
not for flash drives, so you sure that would actually work?
Can’t say as I’m still using this 1-port OTG. There seem to be plenty of options out there though.
Not sure what kind of issue you have here: works pretty much same way for me as with Windows/Linux machine. I am connecting my Glowlight Plus to my Pixelbook using this cable, turn on the USB mode on Nook when prompted and see Nook as removable storage in Files app. Can add/delete files without any issue. I have another cable somewhere - will try with different one to see if it changes anything.
P.S. This cable works fine as well and I don't have more usb-c <-> microUSB cables at home.
Bought it off eBay. Before that I used an Amazon Basics one.
> there aren't any C to micro cables.
why wouldn't these be made? https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-Type-C-Micro-B-Cable/dp/B01LONQ7R6/
Interesting. Never knew that. The only allow A to C or C to C cables? So if I want to connect a device with Micro B, the only "official" way is to use an adapter from C to A, then the A to B cable? Because C to B isn't permitted?
Does the USB IF certified here mean anything? https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-Type-C-Micro-B-Cable/dp/B01LONQ7R6/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=micro+b+to+usb+c&amp;qid=1567766426&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=micro+B+to+&amp;sr=8-8
If the same cable that charges your laptop won't charge a microusb device with the adapter, it's probably a bad adapter. I've used the AmazonBasics c to micro cable without issue from by a type c charger and a MacBook pro. Does charging your phone via the type c/lightning cable work?
Personally, I went the route of a multiport charger. I use this one. It's a little sketchy on delivering the full 60w via type c, but works great otherwise. Unfortunately, I haven't found a 60w option from a (relatively) reputable company. Closest I've seen is 45w or 30w.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-Type-C-Micro-B-Cable/dp/B01LONQ7R6/
so you're looking at something like this:
USB 3 port to this USB C connection https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-USB-Male-Cable/dp/B01GGKYS6E?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_3
this USB C female to female https://www.amazon.com/Poyiccot-Adapter-Straight-Coupler-Connector/dp/B072PR8Q4S
which allows you to plug this USB C to Thunderbolt adapter https://www.apple.com/shop/product/MMEL2AM/A/thunderbolt-3-usb-c-to-thunderbolt-2-adapter
into the interface. i would probably not want to send signal through all those adapters (if it will work at all) - I'd rather connect directly. I would get the USB version if possible.
The type is USB C, what goes in your controller
For example,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYS6E/ref=vp_m_pb_t2_cs_lp_B00WJSPB5A_pd?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B01GGKYS6E&amp;pd_rd_w=NlZmH&amp;pf_rd_p=8a525c37-da06-486f-a270-5b6189e34cb1&amp;pf_rd_r=92652b51-a79f-4a0c-b7e2-ba1148425cf1&amp;pd_rd_r=92652b51-a79f-4a0c-b7e2-ba1148425cf1&amp;pd_rd_wg=peELk
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-USB-Male-Cable/dp/B01GGKYS6E/ref=sxin_2
This probably works
Can't seem to find the 56K anywhere in the Amazonbasics versions.
I found this Anker one:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Charger-PowerLine-Resistor-Nintendo/dp/B01E9W8KYC/ref=pd_sbs_147_8?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B01E9W8KYC&amp;pd_rd_r=52c93943-c745-11e8-ad62-fd95c25bf5ca&amp;pd_rd_w=FImAx&amp;pd_rd_wg=5tBBF&amp;pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=0bb14103-7f67-4c21-9b0b-31f42dc047e7&amp;pf_rd_r=13P47PVFTX2W9FSZKACD&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&amp;pf_rd_t=40701&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=13P47PVFTX2W9FSZKACD
Connected to my desktop USB 3 port, will this charge at "good" levels?
Another Amazonbasics option, does not mention 56K but does mention 5v 3amp. Would this be enough to charge in most cases?
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-USB-Male-Cable/dp/B01GGKYS6E/ref=sr_1_1_acs_sk_pb_1_sl_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538596108&amp;sr=8-1-acs&amp;keywords=usb+a+to+c+cable
Thanks for the response. Just want to check do I need an adapter or can something like a USB-A to USB-C work? I was thinking something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-USB-Male-Cable/dp/B01GGKYS6E
Will a combination of this cable (https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Powerline-Certified-Samsung-MacBook/dp/B07213D35X/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=anker+powerline+usb-c&qid=1575151454&sr=8-5) and this passive extender (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH13UFQ/ref=sspa_dk_hqp_detail_aax_0?psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWjJGRTU4STRCOTRWJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjc0NTgzRVdVMTBDQlo1NEkyJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0ODQzMTExUDhIMzc1MkhRSzRJJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfaHFwX3NoYXJlZCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=) work with link? Since the length is under 10ft total and both are 3.0 or higher, it should.
Anker has a million versions, the cheaper versions may not support fast charging. I have the PowerLine II USB-C to USB 3.1 gen 2 and it fast charges with the Samsung brick. However, I mainly use it for Android Auto. I wish Samsung would sell the official one on their site since the ones listed on Amazon have reviews that say they aren't OEM
No problem! If I had to make an educated guess, I'd get this cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07213D35X
That being said, I don't have a car with actual Android Auto (I run a emulator on a tablet with an OTG cable) so I don't have direct experience with it.
USB C is only a connector. If you think it supports "protocols" then you literally have no knowledge on this topic. There's nothing stopping companies from making a USB A cable and specing it to feature USB power delivery, and the 10Gbps speeds.
Hell, here's a A-C 10Gbps cable.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-USB-Male-Cable/dp/B01GGKYS6E
And likewise, not all USB C cables support all specs. Because once again, it's just a connector.
The PS/2 problem comes from using an old install, on new hardware. Hell, my USB 3 ports didn't work on install. Only my USB 2 ports did.
quite a few different options...
This one?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-PowerLine-USB-IF-Certified-MacBook/dp/B07213D35X
Would this be a good cable for data?
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07213D35X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_EptFAb8CC98Z9
I don't think those guys are still reviewing cables (Benson etc.)
Complete list of items in my kit:
Altogether this covers literally everything I need to use Quest anywhere. Once the travel case is zipped up, I can shake it around all I want and everything stays perfectly secure. I was a bit worried that the travel case might not have enough room for it all, but it's exactly the right size!
Are you plugging the Type-C part into your Pixelbook? If so, it's expected this does not transfer data. These sorts of [microB->to->typeC] adapters are unidirectional. Chromebooks do not act as USB devices, to the best of my knowledge.
If you are talking about the adapter itself [Pixelbook -> C-to-Afemale -> A-to-microB -> this adapter microB-to-C?] I would strongly suggest against chaining adapters like that. Dedicated individual cables are a much better idea.
On amazon! It appears to be out of stock right now.
Lindy 2m USB 2.0 Coiled Cable, Type A to mini B, Transparent (31925) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BMS5LK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FYDHAbAVAYF9Y
That's a Lindy cable. I bought mine on Aliexpress, but it looks like you can find at least the silver one on Amazon now.
and now they are on amazon with prime shipping. that's just great lol
https://www.amazon.com/Lindy-Coiled-Cable-Transparent-31925/dp/B003BMS5LK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511991624&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=lindy+usb+cable
Here is a link, Its not actually braided just looks like it in the photo.
Join the Lindy Gang!
And no problem!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BMS5LK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Looks like it's out of stock currently though. Some resellers, but I only paid $15 for it on PRIME when it was in stock. I'd add it to your watch list and wait if you can.
8$ US and it's Prime Eligible
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BMS5LK?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 Is the link to it if anyone is interested. At the Bargain price however they sell out very quickly so if it's in stock and you are interested i'd recommend ordering A.S.A.P
I'm thinking about buying a mic for discord, maybe streaming (emphasis maybe) and am leaning towards a dynamic mic because I've been told that they're better for reducing background noise vs a condenser.
If I get a dynamic mic with XLR out, what would be the okayest way to hook it up to my PC with acceptable input levels? At the moment, I'm considering this headset with the mic connected to the PC via this XLR to USB cable. Will that combination work ok, or should I be looking at something else?
The other thing I'm considering is this USB stand-alone mic and having game sound through my speakers.
I apologise is this isn't the right place to ask.
You could also get this:https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Microphone-Instrument-Karaoke-Adapter/dp/B0050CEEIW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524156261&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=xlr+to+usb+cable&amp;dpID=41L6q7XKxUL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch and then buy almost any dynamic microphone.
I'm really thinking about returning my Samson one.
Be careful with the AT 2020 When purchasing, there's a USB edition which is a lot more expensive and an XLR edition.
I'm thinking about returning the Samson mic and getting the XLR editon then buying this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/HDE%C2%AE-10Ft-Xlr-Female-Cable/dp/B0050CEEIW/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420498926&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=xlr+to+usb
Do you reckon it will work?
I would be more inclined to chalk this up to your el cheapo "XLR-to-USB" adapter. Should have read the 1-star reviews before buying. Many people have this problem.
https://www.amazon.com/HDE-feet-XLR-Female-Cable/product-reviews/B0050CEEIW/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_paging_btm_2?ie=UTF8&amp;filterByStar=one_star&amp;reviewerType=avp_only_reviews&amp;pageNumber=2#reviews-filter-bar
You get what you pay for.
I have an identical looking USB cable, using it with the included USB cord and then the breakout box with no issue.
Here is my cable: BlueRigger USB 2.0 Type A Male to A Female Active Extension / Repeater Cable - 32 Feet (10M) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LJKEXS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xKrqxbCX6E7M4
Sure can, I used this hdmi and this active usb extension. Works fine, room setup is a bit of a pig though (having to go back and forth between PC and headset) but other than that it's fine.
I can confirm this USB 2.0 Active cable 32' works with no observable lag. I just need a active HDMI cable now as my 4k 50' doesnt work at all and both 25' HDMI cables I tried work but has flickers and issues. But thanks for a great write up. Want to do full room VR in my spare bedroom without moving new PC.
https://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-Female-Active-Extension-Repeater/dp/B005LJKEXS/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467603251&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+extension+cable&amp;refinements=p_89%3ABlueRigger
While you are under the listed maximum of 5 meters, you are close enough to the max that some devices will not work due to noise/interference in the cable. You will need to try a repeater.
https://amazon.com/dp/B005LJKEXS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_U5-szbNMMS2WE
GPU: GTX 970, no overclock
CPU: Intel core 4790k
Motherboard: Asus - Z97M-PLUS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 32GB (4x4GB) DDR4 2400MHz, XMP enabled, no overclock
PSU: Corsair - RM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Operating System & Version: Windows 10 64bit
GPU Drivers: Clean install, ver. 384.76
Description of Problem: I am having trouble connecting my PC to my TCL 55" 4k TV. I have tried two different HDMI cables (one 50 foot length, one 35 foot length). I believe the length of these cables may be the problem.
Troubleshooting:
I have connected my PC with the two cables above to an older 1080p LG TV with success. I was able to connect my PS4 to my 4k TV with the same cables. I cannot connect my PC with the two long cables to my TV. My PC will connect to my TV with other HDMI cables, such as the one that came with my PS4.
I have tried changing the input option on my TV to "computer," changed resolution settings to from 4k 60hz to 4k 30hz. Any ideas how I may be able to get this to work with a 30+ foot cable?
I ordered this one and should have it tomorrow. I saw in the reviews for it that people have used it with the vive.
Edit: I found this in an old thread. 50' cables
HD webcams that are connected to the laptop just with regular usb?
Yes or via active usb extender cables such as
https://www.amazon.co.uk/BlueRigger-Active-Extension-Repeater-Female/dp/B005LJKEXS/ref=pd_lpo_147_bs_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=5XTF7EG145X9N1PZY2Z9
Any suggestion to which one? Could you suggest mics and mixer?
i use a cheap behringer usb mixer
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B008O516L0/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481858123&amp;sr=1-6&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=behringer+usb+mixer&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=61gv6f5oIkL&amp;ref=plSrch
many good quality mics available for under £100. you could even just use the mic on one of the USB cameras and do away with the mixer altogether if it was close enough to the person - audio quality will not be as good as using dedicated mics. if you let me know about the anticipated set up / scene you're wanting to broadcast i can advise in more detail
Is it possible to run DolphinBar using a USB extension cable? I recently purchased https://www.amazon.ca/BlueRigger-Female-Active-Extension-Repeater/dp/B005LJKEXS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481263896&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+cable+extension+bluerigger hoping it would work. It turns on the DolphinBar and that itself works, but I can't get the Wii Remote to sync when I use the extension cable.
Any recommendations? Anything 25+ feet is what I'm looking at because I plan on running this through my computer onto my TV.
These are the cables i've gotten that have not worked:
HDMI 1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031TRZX2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
HDMI 2 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HVRB9V4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
USB (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FFKHGR0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
Using this page I've now purchased the two below and will get to test them tomorrow and see if they work.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/wiki/cables
HDMI (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008D5EU6E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
USB (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LJKEXS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
I used this wiki:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/wiki/cables
Edit: from the wiki, here are the particular cables that worked for me:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LJKEXS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186H2JMA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
this
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00BCWALHM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484091393&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=usb+cables
You'll need a USB cable with a male A terminal on one end and a male B terminal on the other end. I've linked an example below. These cables were very commonly used to connect printers and scanners before WiFi connectivity took over the world.
Link: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00BCWALHM/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510401425&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=usb+cable&amp;dpID=41zzmCoojBL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Ah, my mistake. You'll want something like this then.
AmazonBasics cables are also a good choice and solved some issues I had with interference as well.
AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Cable - A-Male to B-Male - 16 Feet (4.8 Meters)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BCWALHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VYPozbNBZP6Q7
Based on the google image that came up when I searched for Roland A-300pro you need the USB A to B cable. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-A-Male-B-Male-Cable/dp/B00BCWALHM/
Its a standard printer cable, easy to find.
I bought 2 meter HDMI and usb3(x2) extensions, and have their 3 ends strapped into a neat bundle, this is then secured discretely to the leg of my desk (I use velcro to keep things portable). I then have one of these attached about 60cm from the plug end of the rift's cable that gets clipped onto a drawer handle when the rift is plugged in and in use to protect the rift cables from being yanked out (kids, pets, clumsiness). When not in use, I have the cables coiled under my desk or inside the same old 15" neoprene laptop cover that I keep my rift in. This then either sits on my desk or is kept out of the way on the floor, propped up against the wall/desk (or under my desk).
edit: I have a big, solid, bankers-type desk. YMMV...
I am using This and This and they work fine.
Would this work or do they need to be active? https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00CFL6ARO/ref=sr_1_cc_4?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481005336&amp;sr=1-4-catcorr&amp;keywords=usb+3.0+extension
It seems on the oculus setup guide I can use a 2.0 extension which I already have so I think I'll be okay. Thank you.
Funny, Two days ago I got a 6' USB 3.0 Gold Plated Cable Matters 2 Pack for $9.99.
I bought this pair of USB SNES-style controllers and this pair of extension cords for it. They're nice enough, but when I realized the Pi3 can do a decent job of running PS1 games, I started using a PS3 controller for it and the SNES ones haven't gotten much use.
I have not run any fighting games with it yet so I can't tell you if those SNES pads are any good for quarter-circle moves and stuff.
I use one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS
I couldn't go longer than a 6' HDMI extension without it.
I have used thse extension cables for the headset fine as well:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO
Here are the cables I am using for extending my cameras.
Here is what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00481GFH4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000A2AGZC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I got my headset used for $299 in like new condition. was used once for a demo
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073X8N1YW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1
3rd Sensor plugged into an USB 2.0 port on computer
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727WDPX6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Rechargeable AA batteries and charger
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JHKSL1O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
USB Expansion card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Headset and touch wall mount
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0781G75B5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Wall Mount used for rear left sensor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XR8DL7T/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Cable management system
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P7GJNP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Mount clip used for front left sensor on shelf
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MG4D3O5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
HDMI extension for headset, only one used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ519KC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
2 pack 6 feet USB 3.0 extension cables, one used for front right sensor and one used for headset
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Sensor ceiling mount used for front right sensor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IDCDZY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
3 foot usb 3.0 extension used for front left senor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S1B4W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Cleaning Cloths
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NR9S3EQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Oculus Rift Facial Interface & Foam Replacement Basic Set
https://vrcover.com/product/oculus-rift-facial-interface-foam-replacement-basic-set/
Photo of final setup
https://ibb.co/exkWXx
I have had no issues at all, this setup working very well for me.
JBtek Raspberry Pi Micro USB Cable with ON / OFF Switch - Easy Start / Reboot ! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JU24Z3W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ny0lDbS6MAQYT
I went with a switch on the cord. Much easier. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JU24Z3W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Wklnub1WK4X79
I've been using a RPi 2 & 3 for awhile. This is the setup I would recommend:
Here's a pretty simple fix that I use all the time.
I have the power hooked into my TV so it can only power on when I turn the TV on.
-JBtek USB Cable
Volume should always work..
This is what i use in the r56
and this is what i prefer for the r53
I also have this power switch, well not that one exactly, but similar. So I keep the bluetooth turned off when i'm listening to radio or turn off the radio so that my phone will ring if i get called, instead of sending the ringer to the bt.
Best sound quality is through a cable though. i don't notice anything on the stock system that I have in both cars, but on my friends cars with upgraded systems you can hear the compression over bluetooth on their aftermarket head-units.
EDIT: I use those because they give me play pause skip control. I've mounted them both near the radio so i don't have to fumble for the buttons to use them. The wireless one for the r56 has the benefit if a friend wants to play music, i just unplug the aux cord and hand it to them.
Bonus for the wireless ones, i have it secured to car via Velcro. 5 seconds later they're Velcro'd to my headphones while i mow the lawn. 5 seconds after that they're plugged into an aux cable for an old boombox i use while i lounge in the pool.:P
Oh, and they both support 2 phones connected at the same time, so gf/copilot/that friend with good music taste can play their music, without me having to disconnect mine.
If you end up having to buy anything to make what you are taking work, it might just be easier to buy this instead. I don't own one so I can't really talk to their reliability/ease of use.
Basically, I am asking if what I describe below seems like a reasonable thing to do...thanks! :-)
In my bathroom at home, the outlet only works when the light is turned on, which means it can't power a night light at night. To that end, I was thinking of some solution where I would power a nightlight with a portable, rechargeable powerbank, using supplies like those listed here...
Example Parts:
Cut off the other end of the USB cable (the end that won't go in the power bank), locate the positive/negative power wires, and wire them to the bulb.
I have seen some USB lamps online, but they tend to burn brighter than I am looking for. I would rather not drain the power bank by using a higher wattage than needed.
Amazon has tons of USB wallwart adapters with online switches. For example:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01F1LVZ0G/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484536719&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+switch+5v+3a&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=415%2BvIYXlmL&amp;ref=plSrch
Or just the cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JU24Z3W/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484536601&amp;sr=8-8&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=pi+power+supply+switch&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41UNb%2Bz8fRL&amp;ref=plSrch
What your talking about is my wireless charger that the Note is sitting on?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01H76NIAS?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Then I have 2 USB switches to turn charging on and off on the FiiO hardware so I don't wear out the USBs or possibly even break them.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JU24Z3W/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o0_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
this is the one i bought
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JU24Z3W?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
Try the 2m AmazonBasics cable: https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-Male-Female-Extension-Cable/dp/B00NH134L6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510679253&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=amazonbasics+usb+3&amp;dpID=41Z2KFNsfLL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Having said that; where is your bluetooth dongle? If it's incorporated into your motherboard, this is your problem; antennae are on the back.
Did that a year ago with a regular Antec 300. If you want more accessible USB 3 ports you could run an extension cable from a motherboard port on the back (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH134L6/) or use one of the front 5.25 bays (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008FJXGDQ/).
Something like this :
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00NH134L6/?coliid=I2KY505ND2Q5QG&colid=2YO33F72VBSTT&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00G33IVWM/?coliid=I14CMUGK8ISO4Z&colid=2YO33F72VBSTT&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
so I don't have pictures right now, as I'm still putting it all together, but what I plan on doing is buying a cubby shelf like this and then buying a Male to Female USB cable like this and wrapping up the USB cable that's connected to my wheel to sit on top of the desk. this way, i can run the Female to Male USB cable on top of the desk where I can easily plug in the wheel when I want to use it. then when I'm done, I just unplug everything from the wheel, disconnect the wheel's built in USB cable from the Female to Male USB cable, and store it in the cubby. the pedals will most likely just stay on the floor
That's an USB C cable. I was talking about USB 3 extension cable... This one should work: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NH134L6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1484600932&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=SL75_QL70&amp;amp;keywords=usb+3+extension+cable
I got this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00Y24IL6K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469990851&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=USB+3.0+hub&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41wRIiIH9CL&amp;ref=plSrch
Paired with this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00NH134L6/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I use an Amazon Basics USB3 extension cable with mine and have zero issues with clicks or pops.
In fact here's my whole chain
Windows 10
Asus ROG STRIX 270 motherboard with Intel USB3 controller eXtensible Host Controller - 1.0 (Microsoft) in XHC mode.
Anker 10-Port USB 3.0 Data Hub
Amazon Basics USB3 6ft extension cable
Just got this HDMI https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069A6UNQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and this USB https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH134L6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Works perfectly.
I picked this up the other day and it works very well I think. I just like that it is simple with no doggles.
http://www.amazon.com/Asunflower%C2%AE-Cisco-Console-Cable-Windows/dp/B00RHDXDWA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463782980&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Console+cable
No. I couldn't figure it out. I ended up buying this, and it worked without any tinkering.
I have this one and it's pretty awesome (assuming your Cisco switch uses this and not 9 pin serial). Works great with PuTTY.
Thanks, I'll keep you posted on it, and for anyone else for that matter too. I soldered the interface up this weekend, but alas, no luck so far. I shared ground between PTT, Tx, and Rx audio, followed known wiring diagrams for the RJ-45 cable, but I feel the colors on it may be backwards... I'll need to measure voltage across the cables, which I assume can be done by taking the DTR/RTS lead and putting the other probe on ground. It's time I don't really have right now, but I'm hoping to have it done ahead of the 220 contest this weekend.
Edit: Cable used no drivers needed, recognized immediately.
This one is working very well for me.
Link
This
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RHDXDWA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Doesn't require drivers for mac or windows
> This is the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RHDXDWA/
LOL - nice yeah me neither... - honestly I swear that's the one I bought the last time around but I'm pulling my place apart trying to find it :/ atm
e: Yeah I did! february 28th of this year - i'm gonna go crazy trying to find it haha
Just buy a longer cable since its cheaper, longer, and you get a new cable.
I just got these for future use with the Switch, the wall charger should be beefy enough, has total 39 Watts.
Aukey USB Wall Charger
USB C Cable
I also got this right angle cable if your into that.
USB C right angle extension
This is the microSD card I'm getting.
SanDisk 128 GB microSD
Also I like the Switch backpack.
Elite Player Switch Backpack
This is the one I've got:
Cable Matters USB 2.0 Type C (USB-C) to Type A (USB-A) Cable in Black 6.6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S8GU544/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yIYByb4KHNF3V
It's 2.0, but if you're just charging mostly, it works perfectly and it's super cheap. Pretty solid construction and materials too.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Type-USB-C-Black/dp/B00S8GU544/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;srs=13705622011&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486628621&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb-c&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_five_browse-bin%3A7800926011
Can anyone can help me price my Switch bundle? I'm in no rush to sell, I just never play the thing.
I'm selling the following:
So what do you think a fair asking price for all that would be?
I was thinking:
$419 total, do y'all think $400 would be a fair price for all that?
Should be USB-C, something like this https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Type-USB-C-Black/dp/B00S8GU544/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478029898&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+c+cable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00S8GU544/ref=pd_aw_sim_147_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=SNJMVP4Z3A702NKNJ26V&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=71w2HSp9kWL
?
I have been using various Cable Matters USB cables for years with no issues, I have nothing but good things to say about their products, nice quality at a reasonable price.
Buy an Anker Charger with Qi Technology and a good micro usb cable for unproved power conductivity.
https://www.anker.com/products/A2013111
http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00SUX3XQC
I always stand by nylon braided cables
You are correct regarding the internet connection being required for the Chromecast.
What about an android box w/Plex installed? I don't have much experience with them, admittedly, but something like this might work: https://www.amazon.com/Greatever-Newest-T98-pro-Android/dp/B07786HKN2/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518798925&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=android+box&amp;dpID=519PPlBu2fL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Then connect the android box to a battery pack: https://www.amazon.com/RAVPower-Portable-22000mAh-Li-polymer-Smartphone/dp/B01G1XH46M/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518799026&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=usb+battery+pack&amp;dpID=31p6oM25MUL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Keep the battery pack charging via USB and also keep the android box connected to the battery pack. If you are concerned with draining your car battery you can use an on/off switch - same goes for draining the usb charge pack.
Two of these would be all you need to switch on/off when entering/exiting the vehicle: https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-Male-Female-Cable-Switch/dp/B00UR321B6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518798833&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=usb+on+off
Sync to the Android box and enjoy offline...
EDIT: Sounds like your power to the battery pack is switched on/off by the key position, right? Then you could eliminate the first usb switch and not worry about draining your battery. Just turn off the switch between android and charge pack when exiting (overnight, for example) so you don't drain that pack.
I mean, there are cables with switches in them.
The case I have on the way has one built in.
Located here: Smraza 5 in 1 Starter Kit for Raspberry Pi 3 2 B with 9 layers Case, 5V/2.5A Power Supply ,1 pcs Fan, 3 pcs Heatsinks and Micro USB with On/Off Switch SW13 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWURJMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.KFDzbTV4WHQR
Or, this is pretty cool too.
JBtek® Raspberry Pi & Arduino Male to Female USB Cable with ON / OFF Switch - Easy Start / Reboot ! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UR321B6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dMFDzbSG5E427
Excellent diagram. I even take it a step further. The NVR has has 2 NICs as you diagramed, but one NIC is usb wifi plugged into a usb hub with an on and off switch. This way I can turn off internet access to the NVR. I don't do remote viewing and only require internet access for the occasional driver download or to share the captured video with other computers. My dream setup would be openVPN server with port knocking and networkable on/off power switch for the usb hub.
One of these cables did the trick for me, just gotta remember to switch it on/off when you enter or leave the car.
With USB, if the device doesn't have a switch, your choices are software mute, or disconnecting the mic. You can do the second with an inexpensive switch:
https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-Male-Female-Cable-Switch/dp/B00UR321B6/
I started with this but then switched to this so I could go multiple shows without recharging.
&#x200B;
Other supplies as needed:
these take you from 5v USB to 9V
these reverse the polarity to work with most pedals
these take you to 18v if needed
this is good for keeping an eye on your current draws and I had one mounted on my board initially to keep track of battery life. The larger battery pack has a battery meter built in I just align to shine up through a hole in the board so I no longer mount the USB meter.
this is what I use as a power switch
That Antec one is nice. The color temperature looks nice and I like that it's small and usb powered but apparently they don't have an on/off switch? Is there anyway to turn it off with software?
edit:
Did a little searching around and I think this would work.
Now if only you could control the color temp and brightness.
edit:
Found this which has three different white temps but no brightness adjustment.
Also if you search 'warm white led strip' you'll find some warmer colored LED strips that have brightness dimming but I haven't found any that have different white temperatures and brightness dimming.
You can over engineer a solution or buy
Switch: $6.99
Button - https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Micro-USB-Cable-Switch/dp/B00GGX94JI
Rocker - $5.99 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UR321B6/ref=psdc_464394_t2_B00GGX94JI
Plus a base adapter: $7.99 - you probably have one of these around your house though
https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Foldable-output-iPhone-Samsung/dp/B013US9FFY/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481952517&amp;sr=8-17
Keep in mind if you constantly pull power from a file system eventually you will have file system errors. Those can be fixed with efsck command. Google it if you encounter the issue ever or keep a backup image somewhere. I suggest you perfect it and do a dd of the card image. Look up dd command line for help there.
Inline USB Switch I bought this switch for the usb fan I keep on top of my external 3TB HDD to keep it cool. Same reason, the fan doesn't need to be running when my xbox and HDD are off. Its a slightly less bulky solution you might consider.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UR321B6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This would help you with shutting your LEDs off during the night or if you get board of them.
It's likely that's an always on outlet. See if your car has an ignition only outlet and switch to that.. if not, you can buy one of these if you want to simply keep using the lighter outlet and USB. You'll have an option of turning it on/off without unplugging, but it's manual so you'll have to remember to do it.. I did that for a few weeks and then upgraded to hard wire to a ignition on/off fuse.. Spent 5 minutes on the project.. Used this and this with a A119S without an issue..
This cable from Belkin is by far the best one I have tried. It also supports fast charging.
is it this one?
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-F2CU032bt06-BLK-USB-IF-Certified-Charge/dp/B00WJSPFOW
with usb 2.0?
I recently read that there are some issues with some USB C chargers delivering the wrong power output (or something).
I just ordrered this Belkin charger which is recommended by Leung, however I also read this:
> Benson has spoken about Quick Charge so much, Artem at AP said that Benson has “vehemently targeted” them. Google has even gone so far to update the Android requirements to avoid proprietary charging methods.
> Please, please steer clear of Quick Charge chargers for devices designed to use Power Delivery.
Since Oneplus has quickcharge, is the cable linked above compatible with my phone?
My stock wire in my OP2 got lost and I had to replace it with this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WJSPFOW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It's been working fine for me so far. Also, it is longer than the normal wires so that works great too.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WJSPFOW/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;th=1
So do you think this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CJ90J6O/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 charger I just bought will be okay? Also this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WJSPFOW/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 cable as well.
Just to make sure (due to all the complications I've heard about USB-C)...
I recently bought this USB-C to USB-A cord for my incoming Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WJSPFOW/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
This cord will work with this power bank, right?
Yea they're approved. Also longer than 1ft. example:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WJSPFOW
Also check out these links, maybe you'll find something here
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1wJwqv3rTNmORXz-XJsQaXK1dl8I91V4-eP_sfNVNzbA/edit#gid=0
https://usbccompliant.com/
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Devices-Including-ChromeBook/dp/B01A6G0CTQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468525809&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=usb+c+to+usb+c
Yeah, I understand why you'd wan the Innergie, but I'd go with the iVoler in my opinion, iVoler for home and Innergie for traveling to uni/work. But if you're on long trips I'd bring the iVoler.
I purchased this cable as a 2nd back up and is works well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6G0CTQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_5dAGxbVPE7449
Nope, if you're buying this USB-C power bank, then you need a USB-C to USB-C cable, like this well-rated one. The one you linked to is a USB-C to USB-A (or USB 3.0), this would only trickle charge your Switch even though you had bought a USB-C power bank.
All anker cables like these support fast charging. Sorry, i did not post the usb c ones you are correct. But they will work 100%. Also i have usb to usb c adapters and they still work perfectly .linked them below :)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01A6G0CTQ/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_OE49ybEGJ23EY
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01AHKYIRS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_eF49ybNHC3FPQ
> What type of USB-C cable do you use?
I use an Anker PowerLine one, specifically this one. I have had no issues and really you can't go wrong as long as the cable has good reviews on Amazon.
>Also, what wall charger do you use to charge the battery?
What you've heard about the wall charger is valid. I mainly use the Switch AC adapter to charge it because using microUSB takes FOREVER to charge the battery. However if you want a seperate charger that isnt the OEM AC Adapter, something like this should work fine.
The key is to look and see if the charger supports USB-Power Delivery and can output 15V 2A. If a charger does that and has good reviews, you're set.
Try the Anker powerline branded ones they are the gold standard and family priced as well black or red.
2-3 meters is tough to find I guess. I went with this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6G0CTQ which suits me fine for $8. I had bought a $25 as well but tested both and found no difference so I returned the more expensive one.
I am a big fan of Anker products. I've bought portable battery packs from them, cables, adapters, without issue.
Here is a usb-c to usb-c cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6G0CTQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Here is a usb micro to usb-c adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AHKYIRS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Here is a great car charger that supports fast charging and other usb types:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G5B069C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I've bought all 3 of these products and had no issues (been a few months now). The usb micro to usb-c is nice because now you can re-use all of those cables from your old phone you have laying around.
Yeah it's a pretty common cheap tx for beginners. I can't find any mode 2 tx on Amazon. I think this one is a mode 2 so should work.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744DPPL8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cpaSBbFCTAAFP
And here's the cable you need for use with simulators or any game.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AAETLVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XuaSBbYTBB400
Or if you want a better Tx that's 'futureproof' consider paying more and getting a Taranis Qx7. It's about 100 bucks and both the hardware and firmware are better in quality and there is gobs and gobs of support online as it's one of the most used TX in the whole RC hobby. Plus there's no extra adapter cable needed to use with Sims. Any micro USB cable, plug it in to your PC and it's auto recognized by most Sims.
https://alofthobbies.com/frsky-taranis-q-x7.html
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XQWQ7C3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fMaSBb5CRX90A
Also do yourself a favor and get this cord for your transmitter it allows you to play pc drone simulators with your transmitter and helps you get better when you're new to prevent crashing as much
You need this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAETLVY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 and to put it into student mode. Mine works with FPV freerider and the DRL sim
I am not sure that receiver will work with the wizard but This one is what I use and it works great. I use This cable to connect to my pc and it is just plug and play.
I just set mine up today. Checkout this cool walk-through on the eachine wizard.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2Q2KdhtmFA&amp;t=1584s
If you bought the radio drone combo like I did, you will still need to bind the receiver to the radio and set a few things up in beta flight. Super important you setup a fail safe for your drone or you can kiss it goodbye if you loose signal.
Also if you are completely new to racing drones, I highly recommend you pick up an adapter cable so you can hook your radio up to computer for flight simulators. It will save you a ton of money because you will crash.
Here is the cable I am using with my FS-iA6B controller:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAETLVY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is the flight simulator I am using:
https://fpv-freerider.itch.io/fpv-freerider
Having a hell of a time trying to figure out getting connected to my PC with this cable and the fs-i6 controller.. looks like i need drivers for Win 7 but can't find anything online. Any suggestions?
Resetting Catalyst Switches to Factory Defaults
https://www.cisco.com/c/en/us/support/docs/switches/catalyst-2900-xl-series-switches/24328-156.html
&#x200B;
USB Console Cable
https://www.amazon.com/Console-Essential-Accesory-Ubiquity-Switches/dp/B01AFNBC3K/ref=sr_1_6?crid=YZQA4LLNYATX&keywords=usb+to+serial+adapter&qid=1568230551&s=gateway&sprefix=usb+to++ser%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-6
Usually switches run RS-232 over RJ45, not Ethernet. We usually use a combination of a USB-Serial adapter and DB9 to RJ45 Rollover
But I also see now we have USB to RJ45 RS-232
Then we connect using
screen /dev/ttyUSB0 9600you'll need something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Console-Essential-Accesory-Ubiquity-Switches/dp/B01AFNBC3K
If you have a serial port you can probably find something similar with serial. Not all console cables are the same though, the pinout for a juniper cable is different from the pinout on a cisco console cable.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AFNBC3K
works great with my cisco devices
You will want to hook into the MGT port with normal ethernet, then then follow the Using Telnet section.
The console port will require serial, which can be used with something like this that integrates the usb-to-serial and RJ-45 adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Console-Essential-Accesory-Ubiquity-Switches/dp/B01AFNBC3K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539109077&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+serial+cisco
Edit: you can also use the WebUI from the MGT port
https://smile.amazon.com/Console-Essential-Accesory-Ubiquity-Switches/dp/B01AFNBC3K
I ordered a couple of the USB to RJ45 off of amazon and they are great. Way better than using the adapters and messing with cables. Works with both my mac and PC out of the box.
i just get the green prompt,btw this is what i am using:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AFNBC3K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These switches are not meant to be configured using a UI. Usually these are setup to use SSH (or telnet if you are ok with your password being sent unencrypted) or SNMP. There is a GUI option for these but you have to make sure to load the correct files and set it up for it, it's not default and you may need a service contract to download the right files. The reason for no UI is that it's not necessary and can actually slow you down if you need to configure a lot of these at a time. If I need to add a command to over a hundred switches, I don't want a GUI. I would want to push it via SSH or if I do have to log into every switch, I'd have the commands needed in a text editor so I can copy and paste.
&#x200B;
These switches by default out of the box are usually configured using the console port on the back using a special rs-232 to rj-45 cable. There are some USB to RJ45 Serial Cables out now that will allow you to connect.
If you're really hung up on the cable problem and don't want to drop the extra money on a current gen. I highly recommend one of these Multi USB cables. One cable to carry around and has everything you could possibly need. I always carry this in my bag.
https://www.amazon.com/CHAFON-Multi-Cable-Lightning-Charging/dp/B01DK13VZ6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=chafon+multi+usb+cable&amp;qid=1563825486&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=chafon+mult&amp;sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DK13VZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_ec.XAb5BDGP0K
everyone should buy this https://www.amazon.com/Chafon-Charge-Lightning-Connector-Smartphones/dp/B01DK13VZ6 then we'd all have cords!
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Chafon 6 in 1 Multi USB Charge Cable with Type C,Lightning,Mini,Micro,Connector for Smartphones - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DK13VZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FEQXzbSHTP8D6
Here's a more updated one.
You don't need to be in awe. I know what a microphone is, and I know exactly what I'm going to do with it, just didn't know the cable wasn't provided.
My intentions are to record singing in my computer. I don't think I'll need any mixer, so my doubt is: do I only need this cable: http://www.amazon.co.uk/HDE%C2%AE-10Ft-Xlr-Female-Cable/dp/B0050CEEIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1380916642&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=XLR+to+USB or this one: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pulse-3-5mm-Jack-Plugs-Mixer/dp/B003OSS71E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1380918041&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=XLR+to or do I also need some sort of interface?
Thank you for your time.
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00CFL6ARO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425587307&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+extension+3.0
I suggest heating cable with a hairdryer a little to form a proper shape.
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RHDXDWA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
---
^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly&nbsp;bot
Cable Matters Ultra Slim Series USB-C Cable (USB-C to USB) in Black 6.6 Feet.
USB-A to USB-C is capable of 5V 3A.
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-USB-IF-Certified-Charge-Meters/dp/B00WJSPFOW
i use this cable, it seems to be quite a bit higher quality. it's also the same price as that 2-pack that everyone loves, but i figured why get two when this one looks nicer and i only have 1 psc and don't need a second cable. haven't actually been able to compare it to the 2-pack tho as i don't own those cables, but i can say for sure that mine feels hefty and nice!
There are plenty on amazon in the uk both in amazon basics and popular brands like anker and belkin
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-PowerLine-USB-IF-Certified-MacBook/dp/B07213D35X/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+c+3.1&qid=1569912315&s=computers&sr=1-3
https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-Double-Braided-Nylon-Type-C/dp/B07D7NNJ61/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=usb%2Bc%2B3.1&qid=1569912342&s=computers&sr=1-14&th=1
This exactly. To be more specific for OP, the USB cable you need was probably in the box. If you lost it this should do the job.
Most likely. Where are you plugging that cable in?
Chances are your laptop only has audio out, and that cable needs an audio-in. the easiest thing would be get a USB to XLR adapter, something like this
I wouldn't ever charge a Type-C phone with an A-C cable because most A-C cable manufacturers still aren't USB-C compliant.
I hate to be that guy, but this is why OEMs tell you to charge with the cable that came with the phone. If you really need extra cables, you could always pick some up off Amazon. I'd go with Anker's PowerLine brand.