(Part 2) Best video cables according to redditors

Hey all, I made a post last week wherein I said I would elaborate on my gaming setup, so here it is. Disclaimer: This is by far not the most practical or pretty setup, but it works for us and we improve on it when we can.


This TV is normally mounted to the wall of my friend’s bedroom. Luckily the mount allows for the TV to be unhooked fairly easily, and we place it on the dining room table on top of a towel so that it won’t scratch the table. We also wedge some books under it to keep it balanced. The TV is connected to the Laptop with an HDMI cable and a USB-C adapter


The TV is set up as an additional display orientated vertically towards the DM. We drag the window of the photoshop file on that display and keep the workstation part on the first screen, so the DM can can keep info about the map hidden. Last session our DM had traps hidden on a different layer, so when we sprung them he would unhide them and reveal a pit trap or a plume of fire. We also keep a layer of black with a layer mask on areas of the dungeon we haven't explored yet, that way the DM can erase away and reveal those sections to us. Sometimes he will keep the opacity on 50% to mimic dim light or use grey for a thick fog.


We also place a sheet of clear plastic to cover the TV to protect it from our miniatures. The DM screen holds index cards with characters’ names and AC on them which we use for initiative.


If you have a question then just reply to this comment. I will try to answer as many as I can.

For the 2 sensors on the wall above the computer I'm using 10ft USB 3.0 extension cables. For the 3rd camera I'm using a 16.4ft USB 2.0 extension cable, as well as a 6ft USB 3.0 extension cable because the 2.0 cable wasn't long enough. I have all 3 cameras plugged into the same USB controller on the motherboard. Since I'm using a 2.0 extension cable, the 3rd camera is running via USB 2.0.

I'm using a 10ft HDMI extension cable and a 10ft USB 3.0 cable for the headset. The extension cables are electrical taped together and secured to my desk using velcro straps. I have the headset USB plugged into a PCI-E USB card I bought because I was running out of USB ports.

It's worth noting that for the first couple of days, I was getting occasional errors where the it said the headset was disconnected and I would have to unplug the USB and plug it back in. Since moving the headset to the USB on the PCI-E card (off the same controller as the sensors) I have not had this issue or any other issues to speak of.

6ft 3.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

16.4ft 2.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KY9M51O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

10ft 3.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB PCI-E Expansion Card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

10ft HDMI Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the Nexus 4, we use a SlimPort cable to connect to any 1080p HDMI panel:

http://www.amazon.com/SlimPort%C2%AE-SP1002-Connect-connector-Supports/dp/B009UZBLSG

Mouse and keyboard are connected via bluetooth. USB OTG would be nicer, but the N4 doesn't support that standard.

Please note that the above description is an internal developer setup. The final product that we ship may end up looking different, so I wouldn't go spending $$ on peripherals at this time.

-Alex Chiang
engineering manager, ubuntu for android

You can ONLY get 144hz from the DVI port on the monitor. It's in your manual.

Get the right cable and you should be good.

Assuming you are talking about R-Pi, v3b.

All 32 bit and lower works flawlessly. This includes but is not limited to Genisis, GB, GBC, GBA, NES, SNES, PSX.

N64 is the most commonly discussed as it has a large library of great games that are also often 4x multiplayer. Most games work very well (e.g. Mario Kart), while some do not (in particular 007 Goldeneye).

Hardware:

• Raspberry Pi 3 - $36
  
• Samsung EVO 32GB Class 10 Micro SDHC - $11
  
• CanaKit 5V 2.5A Raspberry Pi 3 Power Supply - $10
  
• Addicore Raspberry Pi Heatsink Set - $5
  
• AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 3 Feet - $5
  
• Official Raspberry Pi 3 Case - $8
  
  
  Total cost so far, $75. You can get a less expensive case that also comes with the heat sinks bringing your cost down to ~$65.
  
  Cheap right? Well, the one thing that is going to cost you the most in any of these builds is the controllers.
  
  I like:
  
  
• 8BITDO NES30 Pro Wireless Bluetooth Controller - $49 (x4).
  
  When I first bought them, they were $36 each, and I love them. They work really well via the Pi's built in Bluetooth.
  
  Another great option that works really well are the XBOX-360 controllers. Wired ones run you $27 each brand new, and wireless are $34/each, plus one adapter for the set.
  
  
  In other words, four good controllers are going to run you $100-$200. Which is the bulk of most builds. In a childs-only build, I am considering either wired XBOX-360 controllers because of their awesome cord break-away feature, or going even less expensive with the $12 SNES clones, though that eliminates the ability to play N64 and PSX.

http://www.amazon.com/Component-A-V-Cable-Playstation-2/dp/B00005MDZD

Less than 10 bucks and you get it in 2 days for free if you have Prime

>and a VGA to hdmi cable (wtf right?)

Perhaps this is what you were looking for? /creepy smile

Mini-displayport

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-Display-Cable/dp/B013PWQPFS

I'm pretty sure freebullets is correct. See the poor amazon reviews for a similar product. It should be possible with an active converter, but I don't think a regular cable will do it.

Just an example https://www.amazon.ca/Intec-Component-AV-Cable-PS2/dp/B00005MDZD

And you would need a monitor/tv with component inputs.

pick yourself up a VGA-to-HDMI or DVI-to-HDMI cable (obviously depends on the kind of ports your computer uses).

power:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_WTxdxbG2WKX4D

Usb:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_YGxdxbPW3R45Z

HDMI:https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Commercial-Premium-Female-Extension/dp/B004C4SECG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1460784534&sr=8-1&keywords=Monoprice+Commercial+Series+Premium+10ft+24AWG+CL2+High+Speed+HDMI+Cable+Male+to+Female+Extension+-+Black

I used black electrical tape to group the cables together after stretching them out and it works great. I accidentally made the usb to tight and occaisonally it pops out during transportation but rarely so if your going to group them together make sure they have enough slack.

It is http://www.amazon.com/SlimPort%C2%AE-SP1002-Connect-connector-Supports/dp/B009UZBLSG ? In stock July 25, 2013.

>Video card must support digital signal output through VGA port function.

Which a lot don't; VGA is defined as an analog signal by spec. HDMI is purely digital. DVI-> VGA converters do exist, but thats because the C pins at the bottom of the DVI grid are analog pins. Some DVI connectors (like Apple's) don't even have those pins, and are thus purely digital, which lands you in the same soup as HDMI.



The only way to get a HDMI -> VGA is to use an active converter which can convert digital<-> analog, like this one.

I've successfully created a 10 ft (~2m??) extension beyond the break out box. Total cost was under $50. I have a 3.2m x 3.5m or so area and I have more than enough space. One thing I'd note is that the HDMI cable extension is HEAVY/THICK. After I put all the extension cables through the mesh casing, it makes the cable paclage very rigid. Still, this works flawlessly for me! Links to amazon below...

HDMI: Monoprice Commercial Series Premium 10ft 24AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI Cable Male to Female Extension - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004C4SECG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_2a4HxbGN1CTQG

USB: Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Qb4Hxb1AHSCGS

DC Power: Hanvex HDCA12 12 ft 1.3mm DC Power Extension Cable for Foscam, Agasio, Tenvis, Loftek Wireless IP Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_yc4HxbRGNZ5AB

1/2" casing sleeve: 1/2" PET Expandable Braided Sleeving- 10ft - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZATN3WI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Md4HxbR1Y7KTX

Warning: wall of text ahead. I'm going to recycle an older comment and make it more specific to your post.

It kind of depends. What CPU and GPU do/will you have? Do you have enough room to swing your arms while standing stationary? Do you like simulations, such as racing games or flight/space sims? These actually have an impact on the best headset (HMD) for you. I own the Vive (non-Pro), Rift, and Samsung Odyssey so my comments are based on use of all three.

Oculus Rift:

Lighter and easier to deal with. Has built-in audio. Some really nice platform exclusives, though there is a way to play those on the Vive. (More on that shortly.) Cheaper than the Vive, and cheapest option in general other than some Windows Mixed Reality HMDs that you should probably avoid. Tracking is, in my opinion, a little inferior to the Rift, even if you get a 3rd sensor. However, you can "fake it 'til you make it" on the Rift with only two sensors by mounting them in opposite corners of your play area. The Rift requires at least 3 USB 3 ports, or 4 if you add a 3rd sensor, so that's a lot of requyired ports. Seated/standing experiences work slightly better than roomscale, though this is something they've overcome with time. Games/apps purchased through the Oculus Store won't work on another HMD (barring 3rd party hacks/apps), limiting your future hardware upgrade options so buy any non-Oculus exclusives through the Steam store. Touch controllers are the current king for controllers, but Knuckle controllers for Vive/SteamVR are pending. (More on that shortly.) MUCH more pronounced "god rays" than the Rift. The business practices and politics of Facebook/Oculus are questionable, if you care about that sort of thing. Customer service is ticket-based only and there's no option for phone-based support.

HTC Vive:

The regular Vive is $100 outside your price point. The Vive Pro is more than double so I won't go into it much here. The Vive has significantly better tracking than the Rift unless you get at least a 3rd sensor, and even then there are sometimes issues. No built-in audio on the regular Vive but this is resolved with the Deluxe Audio Strap, albeit for $100 more. The Vive offers a better Roomscale experience, in my opinion. Games are purchased through Steam, which means you can take advantage of Steam sales, buy games at a discount (sometimes 80-90% off!) from third-party sites like Humble Bundle, Green Man Gaming, etc. Note, however, that the Rift is compatible with most VR games on Steam, too. You can also play Rift exclusives using free, third-party software called ReVive, but that this is not officially supported and YMMV. Not every game works. (Essentially, it tricks Rift titles into thinking a Rift is connected, and remaps the buttons to the Vive controller. However, since there are differences between the controller control types, this isn't always perfect.) Controllers are meh but work fine; just not as intuitive or comfortable as the Rift's. When (might be a while) the Knuckles controllers finally come out, they'll probably be the best. The Vive is more glasses-friendly but those who are just nearsighted won't necessarily need to wear glasses at all. There's a new wireless adapter that's nice but only applies if you're driving it with a desktop PC because it uses a PCIe card rather than USB. For non-wireless, however, one nice thing about the Vive is that the HMD only uses one USB 3 and one HDMI, and that's it. The Lighthouses (base stations) only need power and don't require USB. HTC support is both phone and ticket but is terrible either way. Some people have resorted to public shaming via YouTube/social media. YMMV.

Samsung Odyssey (WMR):

Higher resolution display, on par with the Vive Pro, which equates to a much less pronounced "screen door effect" (seeing the gridlines between pixels) than other HMDs. This is very nice for more detailed games like racing games or flight/space sims where you have to read a lot of small dials or text. Significantly lesser support for games and experiences. That said, just because an app doesn't explicitly state it works with WMR doesn't mean it won't work... but it might not. Controllers are pretty bad compared to the others. Tracking is also worse (uses inside-out tracking, so no sensors), but still significantly better than I thought it would be. This won't matter much if at all for seated or standing experiences; just for roomscale. The benefit is that you can do VR on the go with a gaming laptop. (At least a 1070 Max Q, though a full 1070 or 1080 is recommended.) The cable is significantly shorter than the others so, realistically, it's just a seated/standing experience. Roomscale is technically possible but severely limited. Also, there are specific cases (for example: archery games) where the controllers will end up out of view of the HMD's cameras, which will break tracking. Samsung's phone-based support is usually pretty decent, though I haven't needed it for the HMD yet.

Other Windows Mixed Reality HMDs:

The Lenovo Explorer gets some good reviews and sometimes goes on sale for as little as $170 with controllers. (Note: it can be found cheaper without controllers but you need controllers for most VR experiences, so...) It's important to note that the Lenovo Explorer (and all other WMR HMDs other than the the Samsung Odyssey) lacks IPD adjustment. IPD stands for interpupilary distance, which is the distance between your eyes. Everyone's eyes are a different distance apart but most WMR manufacturers didn't include this feature to keep costs down. However, using an HMD without the right IPD can cause nausea, blurriness, and headaches and can ruin your VR experience. I'd strongly recommend going with one that does. I haven't generally heard good things about any of the other WMR HMDs other than the Samsung Odyssey or the Lenovo Explorer. The others are relatively cheap but lack features, perform poorly, or both.

A note about VR graphics:

It really depends on the game. To avoid nausea, VR generally has to run at about 90 Hz, which can necessitate less comprehensive textures. However, people have done absolutely amazing things with VR to the point that you simply don't notice. A prime example of this is Lone Echo (Oculus only). The visuals are stunning, though I'd be remiss if I didn't mention the incredible story, method of teaching game mechanics, and the pure immersive feeling they pull off. Lone Echo is VR done right, and it feels like an AAA title. The Climb is another example of incredible visuals and reasonable immersion. That's the game currently making the rounds (again) of Reddit via this GIF. Skyrim VR is another example of impressive visuals in VR. Skyrim is somewhat dated, but yes; those incredible photorealistic immersion mods from desktop Skyrim work in VR and you can totally play Skyrim VR seated. All of that said... you are looking at a 1080p monitor magnified by relatively cheap optics no matter which rout you go. It's like looking at 1080p on a 70" screen from <4 feet away. You are going to notice the pixels, but you're also going to forget about it pretty quickly as you get distracted by the incredible experiences and other visuals. The only exception to this will be games with lots of detail like flight and space sims. Unfortunately, games like that really need higher res than VR can realistically provide right now. This may change with 20-series GPUs. For everything else, you'll probably mostly forget about the issue.

Roomscale:

Your roomscale abilities are going to be hampered by your small play area. Generally, the recommended minimum area is roughly 2x2.5 meters, if I remember correctly. Some roomscale games will refuse to launch with such a small area marked off. Others will launch, but you'll be unable to reach some things. Your play area will probably just barely suffice but you might need to "cheat" and mark off a slightly larger are than you actually have. The Vive and Rift both do Roomscale and seated/standing VR. WMR only does seated/standing VR reasonably well and is terrible at roomscale (due to the restricted cable length, not to mention poorer tracking) whenever you are able to make more room for it, and the controllers are much worse.

Cable lengths:

All VR HMD cables are a bit shorter than they could be. You can buy some extension cables, but some work and some don't... sometimes with no explicable reason. I've found that this HDMI cable and this USB extension cable work to extend the HDM for both the Vive and the Rift, and this USB extension cable works to extend the Rift cameras. If you decide to get both a Vive and a Rift, the extension cables I linked for the HMDs are able to go to the Vive's breakout box and then either the Vive or Rift can plug into that with success. The Samsung Odyssey does NOT work when plugged into the Vive's breakout box but I haven't yet tested the extension cables so it might work if the breakout box isn't present.

TL;DR:

At this point, my recommendation for first-time VR on a budget is the Oculus Rift. If you know you'll get into/stick with VR and can afford the Vive (so long as you can also afford the Delux Audio Strap), I'd recommend the Vive. The Samsung Odyssee is also a decent solution but at its price point I'd generally recommend the others unless the majority of your usage will be in highly-detailed simulators or similar games.

DVI is becoming less common.

You'll need a cable that has DVI (which is likely on your monitor) to HDMI or DisplayPort (both of which are present on your GPU).

----

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-DVI-Cable-Feet/dp/B014RWWURC/

I'm using this, and it works perfectly so far.

https://www.amazon.com/ivanky-DisplayPort-Braided-Display-Compatible/dp/B078HVDMW2/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_pd_title

Oddly enough, you can plug a Mini DisplayPort cable into the Thunderbolt port and it will work (they both use the same port).

I use this cable with my air's thunderbolt port to connect to my monitor. Cheap and works great. They also make Mini DisplayPort to DVI if your monitor doesn't have HDMI. Just search amazon or monoprice for a cheap one.

I tried the one you linked to and it didn't work for me either. This one works fine though: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes. It's MicroUSB and the SlimPort adapter is MicroUSB to HDMI

This. That particular item is currently marked as unavailable, but many apparently identical ones seem to be out there.

Worked perfectly whenever I've used it, although some apps won't display over an HDMI interface. Pretty sure that's a limitation of the app rather than the device, though.

I don't know if you can find "official" component cables.

But this should do.

When you hook the up, you have to go into the PS2 system configuration and change the video output. There are two options. Don't remember what they were called, but just switch to the other option.

oh so you're rich enough to own a PC nice enough to run fallout 4 and an xbox one but you can't afford anything else...
50 feet of hdmi costs 25bucks man, what are you on about?

http://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable/dp/B004GW25WY

$27 for 50 foot hdmi cable. may not be the prettiest way to hook up distant tv but it works.

personally i just have an old ass fuck pile of crap dell from 2005 hooked up to my tv for when i want to watch some movies or youtube etc

Note: I bought one last time and got a SINGLE-LINK DVI cable, which does not reach 144hz.

I would recommend buying one from Amazon, Like this one.

Forgot to mention: REFURBISHED MONITOR.

I've read that certain motherboards work better than others for extensions without power. That being said, my Odyssey+ with an Asus H170 motherboard has worked fine with this 6ft HDMI extension and this 6ft USB extension.

Must buy accessories:

6ft USB 3.0 extender

6ft HDMI Extender

I went for 6ft because I heard people had issues with picture quality degrading at 10ft+

Wall Charger for 4 AA's

8 rechargeable AA's

This HDMI extender works with the 980ti - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A30FLE2

I'm using it right now.

The USB extender is another story, still trying to find one that shows up as USB3 and not USB2

Something that I don't see mentioned yet - the Vive linkbox also has a mini-displayport connection that you can use to connect it to the computer, though sadly this cable is not included.
source

So your options are:

1. Get a displayport to mini-displayport cable such as this
   
   
2. Get a displayport to hdmi adapter (might be a bit more clunky)
   
   Most newer monitors these days use displayport as their primary connection, so it will probably be handy to have some connectors on hand for the future.

Any cable thats rated to the hdmi spec that is needed to push whatever resolution/refresh rate you desire. Big huge 'sheilded' HDMI cables are a con.

Using digital signals rather than analogue (think VGA), means the signal can take far more interference before it'll stop working. Generally speaking, only long runs (10m or so) should ever suffer from interference in 'normal' sized cables.

If you want to run 4k/60hz. HDMI 2.0 is what youre after.

This little crappy looking amazon cable will work as well as a £50 'super' cable.

Literally any usb c to hdmi adapter will trigger dex


A cable like this will work . https://www.amazon.com/uni-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-Pixelbook/dp/B075V5JK36/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=uni+hdmi&qid=1563963151&s=gateway&sr=8-1


If you plan to use dex for extended periods get a usb c hub with power input cuz dex drains your battery fast

Look at /r/retropie - it's more focused on these projects.

At minimum, you'll want: a [Raspberry Pi 3 ($35)](
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CD5VC92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Sb.pzbAZKNASG), a case ($7-$20), a power supply ($10), an HDMI cable ($7), one or two controllers ($15-$30 each), and a micro SD card ($22 for a Class 10 64 GB). There are a lot of threads about which controllers are best - I'm a fan of the wireless 8bitdo SNES30 / SFC30 (usually cheaper on eBay).

You don't need any programming experience to set it up, though you may need to edit some configuration files to set certain things up properly. I've built 2 of these to date - they play anything up to and including PlayStation 1 consistently well. N64 is very hit and miss, though Mario Kart 64 and Kirby 64 work well.

£8 for a HDMI cable isn't bad?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-2-0-Cable/dp/B014I8SIJY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1493510444&sr=1-1&keywords=hdmi+cable

https://www.amazon.co.uk/REALMAX-Premium-Quality-supports-devices/dp/B017FH8KDE/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1493510444&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+cable

I just got done building a new Kodi box and I have to tell you its the only thing I've ever built that's normie approved. And by that I mean my wife, kids, and a hoard of cousins.

I used a RPi 3 + LibreELEC and hats off to the LibreELEC team because the thing reboots in 17 seconds and I haven't had a single skip or buffer problem on 1080p video.

Part | Price | Link
-----|-------|-----
Raspberry Pi 3 | $41 | https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-RASP-PI-3-Model-Motherboard/dp/B01CD5VC92
Power Adapter | $10 | https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4
SD Card | $10 | https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Memory-SDSDU-032G-U46-Change-Version/dp/B00812K4V4
Case | $20 | https://flirc.tv/more/raspberry-pi-case-ke
Rii i8+ 2.4GHz Mini Wireless Keyboard | $22 | https://www.amazon.com/Rii-Wireless-Keyboard-Touchpad-Rechargable/dp/B00Z81U3YY
HDMI Cable | $06 | https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8SIJY
Ethernet Cable | $05 | https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-RJ45-Cat-6-Ethernet-Patch-Cable-10-Feet-3-Meters/dp/B00N2VISLW
OS | $00 | https://libreelec.tv
Total | $114 |

I think one of these should be on every TV.

I just helped a friend of mine build his own, it's very easy to put together yourself. Here's our component list, that you may find helpful.

Raspberry Pi 3B

Flirc Raspberry Pi Case Gen2

8Bitdo Sn30 Bluetooth Gamepad

SanDisk 32GB Micro SD

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable

NorthPada RPi3 Power Supply

Of course, there are many different cases and controllers you can use, you don't need to buy these specifically but it'll give you a good idea what you need to get started and what it will cost you when all is said and done. This is also assuming you just want something to play on TV. If you are a building a handheld, that's a different beast.

This is one I ordered and works well enough to get 4K HDR on my TV.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8SIJY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you're eyeing up a 5700XT, you can get converter cables that take care of that problem for you.

If i had this + https://www.amazon.com/VisionTek-DisplayPort-DVI-D-Active-Adapter/dp/B00DYRQXNO/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3JAD47QNQ7GC9&keywords=dual+link+dvi+to+displayport&qid=1550375342&s=gateway&sprefix=dual+link+dvi+%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-4 AND this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-DVI-Cable-Feet/dp/B014RWWURC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=dvid+to+dp&qid=1550375489&s=gateway&sr=8-3 would that work or no?

First, while it may not be ideal, you can get cables with the DP-to-DVI adapters and the screen still looks fine.


TNs are defintely better than they used to be, but so are IPS panels. They each have their pros and cons.

If you can go to a store with more than one panel type, I would try to go look at them in-person. After roughly 8 years using IPS displays, I'm very sensitive to the color shifts I see with TN panels. If it doesn't bother you, however, then you might be able to save some money on a TN panel.


I'll reiterate that you may want to try a new cable rather than buying new monitors however: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-DVI-Cable-Feet/dp/B014RWWURC/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=6JQ751TCKB2VVKKPVB8V

Yeah that question was in the FAQ; it will only run 144hz using the DVI cable. To answer your question, I'm pretty sure it will work with this, a DVI/DisplayPort cable.

Most likely an issue with the cable, but installing the driver won't hurt anything.

I use the UNI model and have no issues: https://www.amazon.com/uni-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-Pixelbook/dp/B075V5JK36/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?keywords=uni+ucb-c+to+hdmi&qid=1550504052&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr1

4k@60 to my TCL 43S405.

I ended up not needing a dock myself. I bought a Bluetooth keyboard and mouse that can switch between 3 devices and got a hdmi cable that has type c on one end and hdmi on the other off of Amazon. All I need to do is plug in one cable and I’m good to go (plus power if I’m low on battery)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075V5JK36?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-MK850-Performance-Wireless-Keyboard/dp/B01NAVO5PF

https://www.amazon.com/ivanky-DisplayPort-Braided-Display-Compatible/dp/B078HVDMW2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550509267&sr=8-3&keywords=ivanky%2Bcable&th=1 this is the one I bought, 1.4 display port compatible, gold contacts and better isolation than your average cheap cable.

EDIT: Are you using Display Port? Cause that's the only way it'll work with an Nvidia GPU. This is the display port I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078HVDMW2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought a cable from Microcenter which didn't work. The Amazon Display Port cable worked flawlessly.

Master List: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Ej9mOe5NamLldpfyFfXrqvLMZP-aG2Zi1su7QzPRNJY/edit#gid=0

Surprised you have never seen this list. It was posted on the Nvidia Reddit for maybe a week or two it seemed after the January update. [Also that flicker that is stated in the * section also happens with AMD GPUs it has nothing to do with Nvidia GPUs. It's a flaw in Dell's implementation with this particular panel]

Oh also the VRR does not work with an HDMI on Nvidia GPUs you HAVE TO use Display Port. With an AMD GPU you can use HDMI or Display Port. I have verified this with a RX 580 and an Xbox One X.

get the component cables

Just so you know they did end up making Composite cables for both PS2's and they are fairly cheap. So you can play your PS2 games with your HDTV if they have a composite cable slot. I have a huge ps2 collection so I will not be re buying all my games.

Link: http://www.amazon.com/Component-V-Cable-Playstation-2/dp/B00005MDZD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449245908&sr=8-1&keywords=ps2+composite+cables

SHADOW OF THE COLOSSUS

I'm serious, I played that for 3 hours today. so fucking good. Also, the Jak series. play 'em in order.

if you're using an HDTV, this is mandatory.

VGA's maximum resolution is 640x480 and is slowly becoming an artifact. Many "modern" devices ship without VGA ports. I'd advise against using anything-to-VGA. DVI is slightly better in that it supports much higher resolution but you're still left with the issue of audio. HDMI is the way to go, and you can get an HDMI 1.4a cable for just a few dollars from Amazon, Fry's or Microcenter.

Edit: That monitor supports DVI-d only so make sure you get the right HDMI/DVI cable. After looking at the specs of that monitor, it doesn't even support VGA so you'll have to get either an HDMI-to-DVI-d cable or adapter.

Edit 2: further research shows that monitor doesn't have a DVI plug but the manufacturer website says it does. You're going to lose some serious quality and I'm not even sure if HDCP will work but here is an HDMI to VGA cable.

Single/dual link isn't the problem. The problem is that one of the ports is DVI-D and thus doesn't send an analog signal which is why there's no picture since you're using a DVI to VGA adapter.

Can you connect the blank monitor to the card with a DVI cable? Otherwise you'll have to buy an active DisplayPort to VGA adapter (something like this).

Venturing a guess here, I'd say your DP->VGA cable is passive. Swap it out for a (preferable) active DP->DVI cable or active DP->VGA, and you'll be able to run four independent displays using each of your connections.

Technically that's a minidp port, but that should work fine. I keep one of these in my bag, personally.

Edit: To clarify, not that specific brand cable, but the same connections.

It's just a different type of port. It is better than HDMI and allows for higher resolutions than 1080p, but it's not used quite as often.

Here is the cord I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003OC6LWM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1380941200&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165

You can see it pretty clearly on this page, just below the charge port: http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/html/pbPage.PDPS/productID.286866600

Thats a DVI-DP though, wont support more than 60Hz.

This is what we are looking for:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003XYBA72/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1467248167&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dvi+dual+dp&dpPl=1&dpID=41eyIQM33ML&ref=plSrch

The USB works as a power source, I don't really know the internal setup, but I'm pretty sure there should be diagrams with the scheme explaining the differences, single DVI is basically just a rearrangement of wires for the new pins, whilst the DVI-D draws power to extra lines. I've been thinking about making one myself.

Ha! Found one: http://lookanotherblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/ADC-DVI_Wiring.png

https://gehrcke.de/wp/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/2000px-DVI_pinout.svg_.png

http://pinoutsguide.com/Video/DisplayPort_pinout.shtml

It looks like its doable if you have experience with making components.

edit: more info added.

For 1440p / 120Hz (or for situations like mine, with a higher resolution 2560x1600 / 60Hz panel) you'll need an active Displayport to DVI-D adapter (along with a proper dual link DVI-D cable). The common <$30 adapters are all passive DVI-I single link and max out at around 1920x1200 / 60Hz.

The two active adapters that pop up as generally reliable are the Dell Bizlink XT625 and the Startech DP2DVID2. They run between $75 and $120 depending on the retailer.

HDMI + USB + Power + Cable Sleeve = Good extension cable.

I use this setup on the HMD end of the Linkbox with no issues.

thicker HDMI cables mean thicker wire gauge. The thicker the wire, the less resistance. So in this case it will carry a signal better than the thinner one.

I use this 10' one and it is perfect. Thick HDMI cable.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Depends on how involved you want to get. Here it's all a matter of aesthetics, and if you want it to look good, you've gotta do the work. Fortunately, I did it for the first time myself, and it looks good and is worth it.

1. Take the TV off the mount. Go into the attic and assess the area directly above the fireplace. Should be easy to find based on the chimney, but if not (and there aren't any wires or duct work above it), drill a small hole in your ceiling right in the center of the fireplace, and poke a straightened wire coat hanger into it. This will penetrate the insulation and give you a good point of reference.
   
   
2. Buy and install a combo recessed plug and cable plate. If there's not much room behind the drywall, you can get shallower versions.
   
   
3. Run electrical power (12/2 Romex is sufficient for a flat screen) and a single long HDMI cable to your box. Wiring sounds difficult, but with a fish tape and a paddle bit, it's actually not that bad. DIY Network has a writeup here. If you're unsure of local code, or don't want to mess with electricity, you could run the power cable to the box, and then have a local electrician tap into an existing line with capacity (this should be much cheaper than having them do the whole job).
   
   
4. Run the other end of the HDMI cable to wherever you want your source boxes to be. Ours are in our coat closet. Use either an A/V switching receiver or an HDMI switch to control the source. Yes, modern TV's have multiple HDMI ports on the back, but for a clean and easy installation, doing 1 cable to the TV, and then switching at the sources is a much better solution than running a new cable through the attic for each device.
   
   Good luck.

Guess what?

They do make 50ft HDMI cables.

There's also hdmi splitters on amazon that can be switched using a controller, or physically flipping a switch on it.

EDIT: Amazon smile link! Get your cable and help out charity for the same price.

15 meters of HDMI cable. Not expensive at all.

• $800 ($800) for 1080p 3d projector (I have the older and now discontinued, H7531D model which while 1080P, did not support 3D. The newer model does, and has twice the lamp life of mine)
  http://www.projectorcentral.com/Acer-H6510BD.htm
  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009486
  
  
• $200 (varies) 120" framed screen - I built mine, pretty simple, used instructions from here: http://www.carlofet.com/build-your-own-projector-screen/
  
• $20 ($12) ceiling mount kit from monoprice
  http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10911&cs_id=1091102&p_id=3875
  
• $40 ($35) 50ft hdmi cable from amazon
  http://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-In-wall-Installation--supports-version/dp/B004GW25WY
  
• $60 ($100) OEM replacement lamp from ebay (this has gone up a bit since I bought mine, probably due to demand)
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/330885230688
  
  Sorry to hear about the taxes thing, hopefully you can find equivilents of what I have listed here. Let me know if you have any questions!

That's rich. Apparently, there's more: I could buy an awesome TV for the price of this.

vs. this

Fuck you Monster and Audioquest.

These have worked for me:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GW25WY/

ok from what im understanding here is that you don't have a "Active Adapter"
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DP2DVIS-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter/dp/B004SUO1GM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1372015294&sr=1-1&keywords=displayport+to+dvi+active

the Adapter has to be a Active

Hey man,

Thanks for the reply, think I'll set it up like this.

Would an adapter like this one work?

Tried to find an active one like people suggested but not too sure if that's what was meant.

Thanks

Get this, make an easy 120hz, thank me later

This is probably the wrong subreddit to state this is, but I've been having a great time just doing this on my phone. Plus my Snapdragon S4 Pro is smoother than the Tegra 3 in the Ouya. Admittedly, in the end the price (not including the phone) is similar to Ouya, though.

• Nexus 4
  
  
• SlimPort to HDMI adapter
  
  
• Dualshock 3 controller
  
  
• Sixaxis Controller app
  
  
• NES.emu
  
  I really like the setup. I think it's a big plus to be able to play any game on the Play Store this way (with appropriate touch mapping profiles, if necessary) or sideload any game, like Humble Bundle.
  
  That said, I really think Ouya's heart is in the right place, it would just have to deliver performance closer to what I'd expect from a tv-dedicated console. If it had a Snapdragon 800 SoC, I'd snatch one up in a heartbeat.
  
  Edit: Reading other posts on here, it appears you can sideload .apks to Ouya. I guess my only complaint is the aforementioned SoC.

> Android has audio-out over USB?
> Android has video-out over USB?

Yes.

I bought a ugreen hdmi extension, and an Amazon basics usb 3.0 extension, working perfectly. From Amazon.ca

Edit; links.

UGREEN USB Extension Cable USB 3.0 Extender Cord Type A Male to Female Data Transfer Lead for Playstation, Xbox, Oculus VR, USB Flash Drive, Card Reader, Hard Drive, Keyboard, Printer, Camera (6ft) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00P0ES0YE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9XWKAb6QCB1MD

UGREEN HDMI Extension Cable 6ft, HDMI Male to Female Extender Cord Cable Supports 4K 3D HDR for PS4/PS3, Nintendo Switch, Blu Ray Player, 3D Television, Roku, Boxee, Xbox 360, TV Stick etc (6ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A30FLE2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


I'm running a gigabyte z170 motherboard, and a GTX 1080ti reference card. All 3 sensors + headset are into motherboard, no expansion card needed for me.

I had endless problems with USB. Problem is it's different for everyone, many are fine with just their Motherboard's.


What I can tell you, if you want to run extension cables, the money no object solution (the only thing that go everything working acceptably for me) is the following:


Startech PEXUSB3S44V

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S


Also, found many of the recommended cables hit and miss but Ugreen's have been excellent. Always use the shortest you can.


For 2m I have these on one sensor and one on the Rift itself:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00P0ES0YE


I also have 1m and 3m version on my other two sensors.


To go with the 2m extension to the Rift (only if needed obvious) I used (again Ugreen):

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A30FLE2


Best of luck. Look forward to seeing you in there

I've been thinking about doing something like this.

As for the HDMI/USB extension, I have an Odyssey and have been using the 6 foot versions of these things with pretty great results so far:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

However, I've heard that going longer than something like 10 feet requires an active cable, but I don't know the specifics of it.

Do you also need the power cable? I believe the PS3 power cable will work. So will any Vizio TV power cord, as well as a few assorted electric razor cords, boombox cords, and some older printer/scanners. (This only applies to the fat models!)

As for the video cables... We need to know a little more about your TV. Does it only do composite (3 plugins) or will it also do component (5 plugins)? If it will do component, I'd go with those. It's a much clearer picture on modern flat screen TV's.

Composite cables (Amazon): https://www.amazon.com/PlayStation-2-Composite-AV-Cable-PlayStation2/dp/B00004U8QX

Component cables (Amazon): https://www.amazon.com/Component-V-Cable-Playstation-2/dp/B00005MDZD

Slim Power cord (Amazon, picked because of excellent reviews): https://www.amazon.com/Slim-AC-Adapter-Playstation-2-Pc/dp/B00255V7JQ

Amazon has sellers that have the Playstation2 component cable.

I used one for mine. This specifically should work with most HDTVs. I say most because I have no idea if a 4K TV for example has it.

What I'm doing, and this is the best quality PS2 video I've managed to conjure up on my HD projector, is using a PS2 component cable and a component-to-HDMI converter. There are a lot of different kinds of converters than the one I linked here. My receiver doesn't have HDMI, so I'm converting the receiver's component out to an HDMI hub.

While we are on the subject I was hoping to get some advice on component cables for PS2. The one I'm looking at someone said they had trouble playing PS1 games on the PS2 using this cable, is that normal or are PS1 games not compatible with them?

For reference this is the cables I'm looking at: http://www.amazon.com/Component-V-Cable-Playstation-2/dp/B00005MDZD

You're thinking of composite. Component is the 5 plugs, orange-blue-green for the video and a red-white for audio. Something like this, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005MDZD

Also, the plug for ps2 and ps3 cable is the same, so a ps3 compatible component cable should work with a ps2.

Buy something like this:

http://amzn.com/B00005MDZD

Turn on your PS2 without a disc inside. You can set the output to be CYMK and widescreen. It looks great and clear on an HDTV.

I used a cable like this to get a really nice-looking FF12 session. Some games support true HD settings.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_PlayStation_2_games_with_HD_support

Please explain more how you are trying to hook this up to your monitor. What you set was sort of confusing.

It looks like your monitor should have a DVI-D port (similar in shape to the VGA except it has more pins and is white in color), so you should be able to use one of these cables to hook up your PS4 to the monitor.

Display compatibility depends on your video card, because that's where you plug it in.

According to NewEgg, the video card has two DVI-D ports. No HDMI.

Thus, you should buy a HDMI to DVI-D connector to plug your monitor into your video card. Voila.

Unless of course your monitor has a DVI port. DVI is preferred over HDMI, so go ahead and just buy a regular DVI cable.

PC to TV DVI to HDMI

You can get an hdmi to dvi cable. newer xbox 360s have hdmi, older ones dont.

http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-PCM-2296-06-Single-Cable/dp/B0007MWE1E

That will work just fine with one of these.

You do know VGA-to-HDMI exists? http://www.amazon.com/Video-Cable-Black-Support-Necessary/dp/B002TUC64W

Unfortunately if VGA is the only option on the laptop you wont' be able to get anything better than VGA quality on the TV. There are cables available but it's not going to magically turn your analog signal into cleaner digital one. You might as well continue running VGA.

The biggest thing here is making sure you are running the highest resolution possible that your TV supports. If it's a 1080p you should be around 1920x1080 or 1280x720 for 720p.

Ah shit, I linked a DVI on accident, the VGA to HDMI that I originaly posted had bad reviews

http://www.amazon.com/Video-Cable-Black-Support-Necessary/dp/B002TUC64W

VGA to HDMI does work.

Yeah, one like this instead will work for Displayport.

I have a triple monitor set up as cheaply as it can be done.
For the graphics card it must have eyefinity (im 90% about this, there may be exceptions but I don't know them). I don't think it works with nvidia quite yet so go ati.
I have a xfx 5830 that you can get for $130. My monitors out are an hdmi to one monitor, dvi to the second monitor, and to the oldest monitor I have an active display port to vga.

This last step is important and I will explain why it has to be active and to vga to stay cheap;

The reason it has to be active is because you already have 2 digital signals in the form of HDMI and DVI, so it has to convert it.

The reason it has to be VGA is because it uses less power and is easier to do so it doesn't need to be powered and MOST importantly, this adapter costs $25 for active displayport->vga compared to ~$100 for active to DVI.

My monitors are not all at the same resolution so I can't do the thing where it recognizes it as 1 huge screen. It is 3 seperate screens that I can control the positions of in ATI catalyst control center (the software side of the drivers... or something that comes with the GPU).

I am not sure about using both the DVI's and then the adapter that I link/ed but I don't see why not as the GPU sees the 3 ports as pick any two. Doesn't really matter as im sure at least 1 of the 1080 monitors has an hdmi cord.


Any other questions feel free to ask, and here is the link to the adapter that you need its not porn its just the link with a false name

side note; since doing my last batch of research, it seems there may be a chance of an active displayport to dvi... due to this product. May be irrelevant as i assume that the old monitor doesn't have dvi, but for anybody else.

it says "Connect a Single-Mode DisplayPort Enabled Computer to a DVI-D Monitor, TV or Projector" so it kinda sounds like it won't work with multiple monitors by the single mode statement... but not sure

You likely need an ACTIVE adapter. Passive ones do not transmit the "connection is live" signal, so often times a computer won't even know the VGA monitor is connected. That isn't an issue when it's a 2nd or 3rd monitor (for the most part), but is a problem when it's the only monitor.

Something like this would likely work for you:
https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B101B-003B-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter/dp/B003HC85D2

What's wrong with the current setup?

All you need to hookup the third monitor to your graphics card (provided you properly linked your current card) is an Active Displayport to VGA adapter. I.e.

http://www.amazon.ca/Accell-UltraAV-B101B-003B-Display-Adapter/dp/B003HC85D2

Someone may correct me, but I don't believe the Apple TV is capable of outputting an uncompressed 1920x1080 video stream.

Why do you need an Apple TV between the iMac and your TV in the first place? Why not use something like this?

Well, I see you've sent the adapter back...still I'll offer my experience. I own a late-2011 MBP (2.4 GHz i7) running OS X Lion 10.7.4 as well, and I run it through to a monitor with this:

http://www.amazon.com/Mini-DisplayPort-HDMI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B003OC6LWM/ref=pd_cp_e_2

I have had no hiccups with that. I also have an Asus monitor. I feel it must be something to do with your adapter. When I connected them up my first time, it detected both automatically. So don't worry, you didn't just throw money away. You can get this to work. Make sure that the monitor is turned on (I'm positive you're smarter than that, but you would not believe some people who don't do this) and also that your computer is plugged into a power source. I will monitor this thread for your update. Good luck!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003OC6LWM/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details

$9 Mini DisplayPort to HDMI and if you have a new enough Mac, it supports sound through DisplayPort as well. There's a list on the apple webpage for which computers are supported. I bought one and it works great.

This.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003OC6LWM/ref=redir_mdp_mobile

You need an active DisplayPort to dual-link DVI-D adaptor. If you only now bought the monitor. Return it and buy an XL2411P instead

Edit: adaptor example. They are pretty expensive. Make damn sure to read the reviews. Many are advertising dual link active adaptors, which technically have the port, but the additional pins aren't even connected.

Just FYI the same adapter is $70 from the Dell/BizLink brand (same OEM, so it's an identical product).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XYBA72/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_r.oCCbH3N786Q

You can also find them used on eBay for around $30–50.

You will have to use the DVI port to the monitor and the displayport to the GPU. Either one of these should work.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Dell-BIZLINK-DisplayPort-Adapter-Powered/dp/B003XYBA72/

​

https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Dual-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

You're not wrong - though if you're not on a slim budget going with a HDMI monitor and getting an adapter would be the best choice. Having DP basically adds 40$ at least...despite it being cheaper for the manufacture than HDMI Shrug

I personally just don't like adapters - I dealt with DVI/VGA/HDMI to DP adapters at work quite a lot for awhile and they were...finiky, especially the cheap,non-powered ones.

We ended up using these which are decidedly not cheap, but they were about the only thing we could get to work consistently.

It's also one of the few that can support the higher resolutions, most HDMI -> Display port adapters don't actually go over 1920x1200 IIRC. I think that requires a powered adapter.

i used to have two of these monitors, one dvi and one dvi->adapter. Side by side they were exactly the same. I know this because if I was dragging something vertically with one half on either monitor, they'd move in sync. So i guess the refresh rates were the same.

using this: http://www.amazon.com/Dell-BIZLINK-DisplayPort-Adapter-Powered/dp/B003XYBA72

If you check the Wiki for extension, there is the monoprice one.

Also you could go with a HDMI coupler + HDMI cable route. Like this one from monoprice and a quality HDMI cable like this one from Monoprice too.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Commercial-Premium-Female-Extension/dp/B004C4SECG

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH12O5I/

This is the one I bought and it's working fine for me.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My Monoprice 10ft HDMI extender works great! See the wiki, or here.

Depending on your computer placement you might need a usb3 extension cable for one of your sensors, your 3rd sensor you purchased comes with one but I needed a second one for my other sensor due to placments. This is also option but I grabbed a 10ft HDMI and 10FT usb3 extension cable fro my headset as well to help give me better range with more slack. Also some camera mounts for mounting your sensors on the walls helps alot.

For referance these are what I ordered, im in Canada so these are all Canadian links so you may need to find your local equivalent

10ft USB 3 extension cables (I use two of them, one to extend a sensor and oen for my hmd)
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

10ft HDMI extension for my hmd
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wall mounts for my sensors
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B072KGHX8X/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And because I had a lack of proper USB 3 ports on my computer I needed a PCI to usb 3 expansion card
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00ME7454O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am using this Monoprice HDMI extension cable. I know it is 10 feet and you only require 6 feet.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004C4SECG

I have had luck so far a few months in I extended 10 feet from Link Box to HMD. I'm using this hdmi https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004C4SECG/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have them wrapped up in a cable sleeve and taped securely

You can accomplish this in a couple different ways i think. If your display is using an HDMI input then I would probably just buy a Really Long HDMI Cable. If it is maybe an older display or computer and you need to use a DVI input you could using something like this: http://www.datapro.net/products/dvi-inline-repeater-booster.html

An electrician isn't what you're looking for and I'm not sure what you mean by "surround sound console". All you really need is a 5 channel A/V receiver that is HDMI compatible, a source for your media (Roku, Fire Stick, chromecast, game console, etc...), and HDMI cables to connect everything together. Judging by the horrendous way in which the power cable for the projector was run, I'm going to assume there is no HDMI cable going to the projector. If this is the case, you're going to need to pull an HDMI cable from the projector location to where your speaker wires end up. I don't know how far the projector is from where your speaker wires are coming out of the wall but I'm going to assume that they are in a closet adjacent to the lounge. Since you are only going to be using 1080p, an HDMI cable that is no more than 50ft will do just fine ( https://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-Wall-High-Speed-Cable/dp/B004GW25WY ). If running a cable is necessary and you are not comfortable doing it yourself, look for a low-voltage electrician/installer in your area. You could probably even use a general contractor since that would be a fairly easy installation for any contractor worth their salt. Once you have all your cables and equipment, hooking everything up is fairly easy and can be done by almost anyone with access to Google. Your projector also appears to be in need of an alignment.
Source: professional home automation and A/V integrator

Big Picture is just an interface - a different way to view the same list of games. If you are running the Big Picture steam client beta, you can access Big Picture on your desktop PC by launching steam and clicking the Big Picture logo in the corner. So yes, you need a dedicated PC attached to your TV if you want to use Big Picture on your TV. The performance of the games accessed via the Big Picture interface should only vary if your tv or cabling has greater latency than your PC monitor.

Personally, I bought a 50 foot HDMI cable to connect my PC to my TV when they were in separate rooms and it worked great. This is the first I've heard of HDMI over ethernet - that sounds pretty cool! I suppose it's really only useful if you plan on exceeding 50 feet of HDMI or if you have in wall Ethernet cabling already installed in your home. No idea how it would effect latency.

As for controllers, if you are exceeding 10 feet, going through walls, etc, then you are going to have trouble with many bluetooth devices. This is a problem I was never able to fully solve, and now my PC is next to my TV so it's no longer an issue for me. When it was, I usually used my 360 controller as my primary input device while on the couch, as I typically only played on the couch when I wanted to kick back and mash some buttons. I'd recommend getting a wireless 360 controller receiver. Mine worked fine traveling about 20 feet through 2 walls with no noticeable performance issues.

I feel you, here's my solution:

http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Xbox-Wireless-Controller-Windows/dp/B000KA5T6A

http://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-Installation--supports-Return-version/dp/B004GW25WY/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1369161450&sr=1-5&keywords=long+hdmi+cable

Did you buy an "active" adapter? You need one of those. This is the one I use.

You could try buying an Active adapter from Displayport to DVI?
https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-DVI-Adapter-1920x1200/dp/B004SUO1GM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Emphasis on the Active part.

I had this same problem. A fresh installation of windows fixed it for me.

On the other hand, the problem is most likely the converters you are using. They are known to cause issues. If a fresh windows installation doesn’t fix it, I recommend buying an active converter like this one. Read the description on the page for more info.

You will need an ACTIVE Display Port adapter to get your 144hz from the DVI to cross over. These from what I'm reading can be pricey (I'm finding anywhere from $40 to $140).

Here are a few examples that I found on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-DVI-Adapter-Conversion/dp/B004SUO1GM

​

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-DVI-Adapter-Dual-Link/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=pd_sbs_23_t_0/145-8304580-0948802?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00A493CNY&pd_rd_r=92198eb8-372b-45ce-af92-4f3d23bdd6c2&pd_rd_w=CkNMm&pd_rd_wg=pViOg&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=WSDA3D5CEW0R7J1GWASC&psc=1&refRID=WSDA3D5CEW0R7J1GWASC

I would buy one recommended by AMD: http://support.amd.com/us/eyefinity/Pages/eyefinity-dongles.aspx

This one specifically says it's an active adapter: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DP2DVIS-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter/dp/B004SUO1GM

(though mini display port is more common than these full sized ones)

It sounds like you'll need one of these. Note that this is an active adapter, this allows HDMI/DVI displays to be controlled by DP hardware.

Lets say you use the Samsung with this adapter, you can leave the Asus on its current DVI connection and the HDMI should then work with the TV.

Reading the reviews of the first cable looks to be a poor quality cable as others say they cannot get over 60hz using it.

Looking at https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Rankie-Feet-Monitor-Black/dp/B01KX5WX4W it explicitly states DOES NOT support 144Hz Monitor in the description.

You need something like:

https://www.amazon.ca/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DVI-D/dp/B007NJ0S1W

or

https://www.amazon.ca/Tripp-Lite-Digital-Monitor-P560-006/dp/B0001PFO1O

OK from what I am reading a good dual link DVI cable is probably your best bet for that monitor.

It's possible the cable they shipped with is cheap and not up to the task despite being dual link DVI.

It's also possible something is wrong with the monitor itself.

I would try this one, it's pretty cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DVI-D-Ferrites/dp/B007NJ0S1W

First review title is correct: "MUST BUY THE DVI-D Dual Link Cable TO RUN AT 144Hz"

Same thing with the 144Hz Acer monitor I picked up. Has to be DVI and they don't supply it.

Edit: Here's the DVI I got - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007NJ0S1W/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7XHJZS3J2S7MZVHSXRVS

I've been quite happy with this cable from Cable Matters.

It was recommended on the QNIX forums on Overclock.net, and seems to provide a strong signal. To be fair, though, I only used the stock cable for a few days, and still haven't OC'd over 96Hz.

Like the other guy said, Monoprice cables are also good.

The HP11 uses a funky "Slimport" HDMI port - $50 for just the slimport to normal HDMI.

http://www.amazon.com/SlimPort%C2%AE-SP1002-Connect-connector-Supports/dp/B009UZBLSG

Here's one for $30.

http://www.amazon.com/SlimPort-HDMI-Adapter-Connect-enabled/dp/B00DWGB6CU

And you'd still need the hdmi->DVI on top of that.

You can. Also, with lollipop I have been using the built in Google Cast feature, which works quite well.

Je suis débile.

J'avais pété l'écran de mon nexus 4 il y a quelques mois, le téléphone était devenu inutilisable, le tactile ne fonctionnant plus. Pas envie d'acheter un nouvel écran pour le réparer, je l'avais mis de côté. Et là, je me suis dit que ça pourrait être cool d'utiliser le nexus 4 pour le brancher en HDMI sur ma télé. Suffirait d'avoir une souris bluetooth et un truc comme ça, et roulez jeunesse.

J'ai réussi à trouver une appli me permettant de prendre le contrôle du téléphone via USB, pour vérifier que tout fonctionnait correctement. Et là, je me suis rendu compte que le téléphone étant rooté, certaines appli que je voudrais utiliser sur ma télé ne fonctionneraient pas. Qu'à cela ne tienne, je n'avais qu'à "dérooter" le téléphone, et tant qu'à faire, réinstaller une ROM pour repartir de zéro. Donc, je réinstalle une ROM. Je démarre le téléphone... Ecran d'accueil... Ah ben merde, comment je fais pour aller plus loin que l'écran d'accueil ? Ah ben je peux pas : impossible d'utiliser l'appli sus-citée : il faut activer le débogage USB pour qu'elle fonctionne, et impossible d'appairer une souris bluetooth : le bluetooth n'est pas activé par défaut. Je crois que mon téléphone ne me sert plus à rien.

Je suis débile.

Any decent quality thick 6ft extension cables should work fine for most cases, but with longer cables there's might be problems. I use these (USB 6ft. and HDMI 6ft.) extension cables made by UGreen and they works great with my Lenovo Explorer.

Manitoba here, these worked for me:

UGREEN HDMI Extension Cable 6ft

AmazonBasics USB 3.0 Extension Cable - A-Male to A-Female - 9.8 Feet

Sure, that was on the german website though.

https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B00A30FLE2/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B00NH134L6/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It depends on which hdmi standard it supports, how long your extension is and your graphics card, apparently. Search for hdmi extension in this subreddit. I remember that there was an FAQ on extensions as well. Tonight I'll add links to things I bought to my article.

This is the extension I bought.

The is wat i bought... i think its the same

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Would like to say this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 HDMI extension works well too! :)

I have the Aorus 1080ti and have no issues with extensions. I'm using separate cables for each though as I've heard some of those specific headset extensions can be a pain. I got these and so far so good -

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00P0ES0YE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edit: I clipped the two together and no issues with tangling and that. This also helps a lot - http://lightingandceilingfans.com/wp-content/uploads/imgp/regolit-floor-lamp-6-7275.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ordered both of these, based on Tyriel Wood's review of them, and said they're working great on his Ody+, and mine has too. No issues.

I'm only aware of a single product that supports 1080p @ 120Hz and its $90. Adapters like this don't have the bandwidth to do 1080p @ 120Hz and there is no adapter on the market (that I'm aware off) that can do 1080p @ 144Hz.

Here is a dual link one for $30:

https://www.amazon.com/VisionTek-DisplayPort-DVI-D-Active-Adapter/dp/B00DYRQXMK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466186418&sr=8-2&keywords=active+displayport+adaptor+dvi+dual

Anyway best bet is to wait for AIB boards that have DVI as well or that include the adapter.

Should be no issue at all, depending on the resolution (1080p should be super easy).

You just need something like this

cc /u/onastyinc

AFAIK most adapters are limited to 60hz.

>Can I use a DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI passive adapter / cable?

>>No. DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI passive adapters / cables do not actually exist. Even though most DisplayPort to DVI adapters you see for sale are labeled as "Dual-Link", all of these are fake, they are only Single-Link DVI adapters in disguise.

>>The DisplayPort connector has 20 pins, which means it can be used as a Single-Link DVI-D port via a passive adapter. However, Dual-Link DVI requires 25 pins, so a DisplayPort connector does not have enough pins to emulate a Dual-Link DVI connection. The additional DVI pins on "DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI" adapters are not connected to anything at all, they are just for show, for marketing purposes. It is nothing but a Single-Link DVI-D adapter dressed up to appear like a Dual-Link DVI-D adapter.

https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/729232-guide-to-display-cables-adapters-v2/?section=high_refresh_displays

*Edit: Found in the same section

If your computer does not have a native Dual-Link DVI output, then the only other way of getting a Dual-Link DVI connection is with a DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI active adapter. Please note that not just any DP-to-DVI active adapter will work; it must be a Dual-Link DVI active adapter. There are active adapters which only support Single-Link DVI, intended for multi-monitor configurations on some older AMD graphics cards (detailed here), and these adapters will not work for 1080p 120+ Hz.

DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI active adapters tend to be unreliable, and should only be used as a last resort if you have no other method of connecting. If you have not purchased your monitor yet I suggest you do not buy the XL2411Z or GN246HL, but instead get a monitor that has a DisplayPort input.

I have tested this adapter to work up to 1920 × 1080 @ 144 Hz:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DYRQXMK/
However, at 144 Hz I did experience loss of signal when turning the monitor off and then on again, or putting the computer to sleep and waking it up again. I did not experience any issues when running at 1080p 120 Hz instead though.

As always, active adapters tend to be very finicky and I cannot guarantee that the adapter will behave the same on your system. My testing was done with an AOC G2460PF and a Radeon RX 480 and GeForce GTX 1080.

You need the proper cable... HDMI 2.0, but you need at least a version 1.4 cable to support 4k. 2.0 for 4k with HDR

I had the similar issue. I bought a new HDMI 2.0 cable and that fixed the issue. Try a different HDMI. I’m currently using this one from amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_..CVDbNH3JDE8

Given the relatively low expense, yeah it'd be worth trying a higher quality cable. HDMI 2.0 isn't hard to find, here you go. :-)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[HDMI 2.0 4K ready cables] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) might help

> MSI GL62M 7RD-265

Yes, right in front of the HDMI port. Is this your laptop?

Edit: I'd suggest one of these

Unless they changed something about the box that your headset and your GPU/PC connect to, you should just use a mini displayport to normal displayport cable.

I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013PWQPFS/

The vive connection box has a mini DP port, so this way you can go directly into your GPU with displayport and cut out the adapter which is most likely the source of this issue.

Display Support:Dual DisplaysResolution Support:1920x1200*

Details:*This model simultaneously supports 1920x1200 on an HDMI display or a DVI display using the included HDMI-to-DVI adapter and 2560x1600 on a Thunderbolt or Mini DisplayPort display or even a VGA display (with an optional Mini DisplayPort-to-VGA adapter, which is compatible with the Thunderbolt port).

2nd Display Support:Dual/Mirroring*2nd Max. Resolution:2560x1600*

Details:*This model simultaneously supports 1920x1200 on an HDMI or a DVI display (using the included HDMI-to-DVI adapter) and 2560x1600 on a Thunderbolt or Mini DisplayPort display or even a VGA display (with an optional Mini DisplayPort-to-VGA adapter, which is compatible with the Thunderbolt port).

Source: https://everymac.com/systems/apple/mac_mini/specs/mac-mini-core-i5-2.5-late-2012-specs.html

Given the ports on this monitor, which appear to be mDP (1), DP (2), HDMI (1), your options seem to be to use a mDP <> DP cable or adapter to get the full benefit. The HDMI Port (HDMI <> HDMi) would give you 1920x1200 but a mDP port would give you up to 2500x1600 or in this case, 2560 x 1440. HDMI ports in the newer model Minis can drive higher resolution (5k I believe) because they are HDMI 1.4 or 2.0, but the '12 model uses an older 1.2 or 1.3 HDMI standard. So, maybe something like this.

I just bought a cheap AmazonBasics one honestly. So long as you're not putting stress on the cable it'll probably be fine.

If the Rankie doesn't work for me, then I may try and find somebody with an Oculus Adapter... And if I can't accomplish THAT...

I'll try:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07VC1X5F7/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=A2G19X1I62OYYL&psc=1
......
And then I'll try these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013PWQPFS/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
+
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0725636WX/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A1XBPHGHAXLHDG&psc=1

I thought you were exagrating with the price, surely they can't be selling them for that much....

Fuck my life

This is why I forced my parents to make an Amazon account. I do hope they kept the receipt.

Here you go:

• AmazonBasics USB 3.1 Type-C to HDMI Adapter - $17
  
• AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable, 3 Feet - $6
  
  The USB-C to HDMI adapter has a female HDMI port, so it won't plug in directly to a PC/monitor, hence the need for a cable with a HDMI male plug at both ends. I use mine with my desktop monitor, which is why I went for only 3 feet.

im sure the one in the box is fine, if not i was guided to this one when i got my 4k tv

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-2-0-Cable/dp/B014I8SIJY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1487209157&sr=1-1&keywords=AmazonBasics+High-Speed+HDMI+2.0+Cable

What OP said above. Amazon basics are literally £3.99.

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI 2.0 Cable - 0.9m / 3 Feet (Latest Standard) Supports Ethernet, 3D, Audio Return https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B014I8SIJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AChMzbRHPK3FF

Yes (see below), tested with a TV, both video and audio are transmitted.

Displayport to HDMI Adapter, Benfei Dp(Display Port) Male to Hdmi Female Converter with Audio for Lenovo, Dell, HP, Asus and other brand(Dp to Hdmi):

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Displayport-Adapter-Benfei-Display-Converter/dp/B017Q8ZVWK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506631957&sr=8-3&keywords=displayport+to+hdmi


AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI 2.0 Cable - 0.9m / 3 Feet (Latest Standard) Supports Ethernet, 3D, Audio Return:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B014I8SIJY/ref=twister_B019OVZSUM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I purchased a 7 inch unit with a 'Feelworld' sticker on it for $135 and it works surprisingly well. I also bought some batteries (Sony L series) and a charger as well as a magic arm and a carrying case. I am very pleased with it and the only gripe I have with it is that the power button is more like a standby button. I have to remember to pop the battery out so I don't end up with it being dead.

Here's some links:
Magic arm - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00QTIVL82/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8

Clamp - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CM5SNY0/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Case - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0196JV89C/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Huge battery (one last all day about) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00M3P9YBQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Inexpensive HDMI cable - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014I8SIJY/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Smaller batteries and charger - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CPYXQ2S/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And finally, the monitor - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SV5K9WA/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Let me know ow if you have any questions!

Hi,

I know it's been two weeks, but I thought you might be interested to know that Display port output does include a DVI-D signal, so you only need a passive cable (probably about $10) Also, my 2080 Super came with a DP to DVI dongle so I could use an existing DVI cable if needed. The $100 (active) adapters are for going from a DVI card to a DisplayPort monitor because while DP sends a DVI signal, DVI does not send a DP signal. This would work for an RTX card to a DVI-D monitor (but not to a VGA or a DVI-A monitor, but I doubt your 1080p monitor is analog)

If you have an RX550 I would recommend getting a nicer monitor. That being said, something like this should do the trick.

Yeah, that should work fine. However, you would be better off spending that money on a Displayport to DVI adapter. This would let you get 144hz on both monitors and free up the HDMI for your other devices.

Thanks for the advice. Would a USB-C HDMI work in place of Chromecast?

https://www.amazon.com/CHOETECH-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-ChromeBook/dp/B01LYS3Q5A $24 for a cable that does it.

I mean a USB to HDMI cable on amazon (way cheaper than retail) cost 20, the connector also powers the device so while 90 is probably on the high end of pricing the device itself isn't as cheap as what you may thing

So far I've tried
CHOETECH (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYS3Q5A/)
&
Insignia (https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-usb-type-c-to-hdmi-adapter-white/4480802.p?skuId=4480802)

The bestbuy "Insignia" brand does the job, however over the course of a week and using it for 4-5 hours a day, I had about 5-6 random "HDMI DISCONNECTED" messages.

The CHOETECH one I've been using since the 7th has yet to have that issue for me. So maybe try going with one that includes that actual HDMI cord and not just and adapter for better results. 🤷‍♂️

Sorry you're having problems with it. I just wanted to let you know it's possible. I've been connecting my V30 to my TV for a couple of months without issue. I've been using a cable like this.

USB C to HDMI Cable

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075V5JK36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_KyYCCbN3ZMFGG

Not sure if they removed it, but I found this and it has good reviews

https://www.amazon.com/uni-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-Surface/dp/B075V5JK36

For your PC -> TV, $20

https://www.amazon.com/uni-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-Pixelbook/dp/B075V5JK36

I bought this cable and people in the comments said it works on other phones also someone posted about using the cable for the razer phone thats why I bought it

https://www.amazon.co.uk/uni-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-Samsung-Grey/dp/B075V5JK36/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1525274651&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=uni+usb+c+to+hdmi&psc=1

Thanks for this. I wouldn't have even thought to try that. I tried it on my current adapter, and it's still doing the same thing. Also for reference, below are the 2 cables I tried previously which are very similar to the one richwest3 is using. I'm starting to wonder if my V30 that is messed up somehow because surely these cables are not the issue.

Cable 1: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075V5JK36/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cable 2: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073H9ZWDJ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB-C to HDMI is the one that I have been using for like 2 months no problem at all

There has been a lot of discussion on this in MacRumors and the Apple Support forums. I had it happen to 2 Mac Minis. Reinstalling Mojave from a CCC Clone did not fix it, leading me to think that Catalina updated some Mac firmware in the HDMI chain. To get 4K /60HZ working again, I got this USB-C to HDMI adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075V5JK36

This has been rock solid for me, but YMMV. I, and others, have open Apple Support cases on this issue.

I know it’s 6.6 feet, but https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078HVDMW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_E1owCbTWNN4XR should work. It’s a great quality cable.

ivanky DisplayPort Cable 6.6ft DP... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078HVDMW2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This one is pretty good

Most DP cords should work fine. There are some on amazon that advertise that they are compatible with 2k+ 144hz such as https://www.amazon.com/ivanky-DisplayPort-Braided-Display-Compatible/dp/B078HVDMW2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=displayport+1440&qid=1573855371&sr=8-4

I bought this. Showed up today. It does NOT come with a displayport cable. Fortunately, I bought a displayport cable before it arrived.
I have the same exact GPU as you. Took me about 10 minutes of messing with G-Sync and multimonitor settings to get it synced up at 155fps. Works great.

Unlikely... I think you just bought a cable that is for an older revision of DP. The "specs" on the website you linked are really lacking. It says "model 1.1" which could indicate DP 1.1 which is not fast enough for Vive.

You need to ensure you get a cable rated for DP 1.2. I personally use this cable with my Vive.

Why not just use a displayport to mini displayport cable? Like this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/dp/B013PWQPFS

I'm using an Amazon Basics MiniDP to DP cable with my 980Ti and I haven't had any issues. I never connected the HMD with HDMI and it's been working for the 3 weeks I've had it. Maybe you could try uninstalling drivers and then reinstalling and see if that helps.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/dp/B013PWQPFS

does it look like this?

I got the same monitor like a week ago. My HDMI cable I got from amazon said it was HDMI2 but I had the same issue as you. I bought an Amazon Displayport cable for like $10 and it finally gave me the option to do 144hz. So I would try that. I bought this one because my graphics card only had a mini DP port. Yours might have a full size though so I would check on that

It looks like your monitor has three inputs: (i) DVI-D; (ii) VGA; (iii) DisplayPort. And it looks like your laptop has two outputs: (i) HDMI; (ii) Mini DisplayPort.

If that's correct, you've got two good options:

• HDMI to DVI cable
  
• Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort
  
  For this application, either will work. If you've got the soundbar for the monitor, DisplayPort will allow audio to also be transmitted with the video, while DVI won't.
  
  

Yes, it will work, but do not do this.

Right next to that DVI port is a Displayport.

All you need is a mini Displayport to Displayport cable like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-Display-Cable/dp/B013PWQPFS/

Does the device you are connecting to the monitor only have a mini Displayport output?

Probably have to look and see what it comes with. I bet most don't and you will have to buy a cable.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/dp/B013PWQPFS

Maybe something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Thunderbolt-DisplayPort-Supporting/dp/B01DYFI1OE

or

even a simple TB3 to DisplayPort cable
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-USB-C-Supporting/dp/B01J6DT070 might work?

Your laptop has an hdmi and Mini DisplayPort connectors as well.

Connecting your monitor with a Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort cable would be your best bet and I would bet would get you the full 120hz @ 3,440x1440 resolution.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/dp/B013PWQPFS

I would run one of those for your monitor and treat your other connections separately. I would recommend using the mDP to DP cable and then run a dock off of your TB3 port for all of your other connections. Maybe one of the docks in this article would suit your needs?
https://www.gearhungry.com/best-thunderbolt-3-dock/

I would recommend using a complete cable that goes from DP to mini-DP, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/dp/B013PWQPFS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1490995544&sr=8-6&keywords=mini+dp+to+dp

For a few reasons:

1. That amazon one claims to be VESA certified (those are the people that make the displayport specification)
   
2. Every connection introduces noise and does not transmit the signal as well as a solid copper cable.
   
3. You're introducing an extra 3 feet using that adapter. The longer the cable the more the signal degrades.
   

Hi, we've seen this issue on some Dell and LG monitors before. Try swapping the HDMI cable + apple adapter for a MiniDisplayPort -> DisplayPort cable like this:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/dp/B013PWQPFS

Like this? Send a picture of the conector. What youbdescribe spunds like an A-B printer cable. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/dp/B013PWQPFS/ref=asc_df_B013PWQPFS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167151358503&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11324157099121488809&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031020&hvtargid=pla-281221827502&psc=1

AmazonBasics Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PWQPFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sl-VBbSKT333A

A cable with DisplayPort in both ends should do the trick, no? So Mini DisplayPort in your MacBook and a full size DisplayPort in your display.

Something like this I recon. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/dp/B013PWQPFS

​

edit: I misread and thought you talked about a 2015 MacBook Pro.

Would this product do it?
AmazonBasics Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PWQPFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6rkaCbA5XXJCF

You won't get QHD at 60hz through HDMI on the mbp. But this will do
AmazonBasics Mini DisplayPort to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PWQPFS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-Display-Cable/dp/B013PWQPFS

• 29UC88 isn't bad. If productivity is your thing, higher res = better. I'm a programmer who currently has 15" rMBP > thunderbolt display at work, and 27" imac at home (both 2560x1440). It's massively better than using the rMBP's built in screen. But the 29UC88 would be like chopping off 360 pixels at the bottom... not something I would want to do. I'm currently waiting on this guy who is on the truck for delivery: https://www.amazon.com/Acer-XR342CK-bmijpphz-UltraWide-FreeSync/dp/B01JYT9L4I/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503582336&sr=1-1&keywords=acer+xr342ck. It'll be the same height for me, but with an additional ~900px on the side which will be great for a 3rd window. Whether or not that's worth maxing out your budget for I can't answer. But it is one for consideration.
  
• In most cases you're looking for miniDP to DP like this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/dp/B013PWQPFS/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503582437&sr=1-2&keywords=mini%2Bdp%2Bto%2Bdp&th=1
  
• Cheap and well rated arm: https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Monitor-Adjustable-Articulating-STAND-V001/dp/B00B21TLQU/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C530FVQ33YXEMV839CA6
  
  EDIT: re: your neck and back pain. It's good your making your workspace more ergonomic. But there's only so much you can do there. Make sure you're taking frequent breaks if only for a few minutes.

How long have you had the 16?

This one would work, regardless of length.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PWQPFS/ref=twister_B01B1B67RG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

it's mini displayport. this is very basic audio focused for me, so I'm not really worried about getting granular about video cables.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-Display-Cable/dp/B013PWQPFS

No problem.

Yeah, that would work. I've mocked up a (very) rudimentary design of the solution for you:

https://imgur.com/gallery/SsLMTsi

​

Imgur cut off my text but the color code is:

Black = Product

Blue = Connection

Pink = Item To Buy (see below)

​

Products (including suggestions):

1. USB Computer Toggle Hub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXXQKGM?ie=UTF8
   
2. Mac Type C Dock With Charging and Display Out: https://www.amazon.com/QGeeM-Delivery-Compatible-Thunderbolt-Chromebook/dp/B07QXMNF1X/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=type+c+dock+mac+charging&qid=1574116707&refinements=p_36%3A1253503011&rnid=386442011&s=electronics&sr=1-6
   
3. HDMI to DVI: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8UQJY/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=techlens0e-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B014I8UL8U&linkId=707a16198e0572f08d2e77944f3adfb7&th=1
   
4. Mini DP to DP: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PWQPFS/ref=twister_B01B1B67RG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
   
   ​
   
   With this, your mac will be one cable connected to it for both charging and connecting to the monitor as the charger connects to the type c dock :-)
   
   Thank you for the sub!, didn't expect that. I hope to make some enjoyable content for you and spark some ideas! - speaking of my first video with the webcam kill switch includes how to mount the switch to the underside of the desk (which would be perfect for the USB hub - item 1. Will be super discrete and clean)
   
   PS - if you get this setup - post a pic here for me? :-)
   
   ​
   
   ​
   
   As for keyboard, i have always liked mechanical. Aukey do one that's pretty unoffensive looking:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Mechanical-Keyboard-Anti-Ghosting-Resistant/dp/B06XKV8R9Z/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=mechanical+keyboard&qid=1574117032&refinements=p_36%3A-4000&rnid=386442011&s=electronics&sr=1-11
   
   ​
   
   The Logitech G203 is on sale at the moment: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Prodigy-Wired-Gaming-Mouse/dp/B01M26YUKO/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=gaming+mouse&qid=1574117290&refinements=p_36%3A-4000&rnid=386442011&s=electronics&sr=1-5
   
   ​
   
   But so subjective - I have a corsair K70 Mk2 Low Profile with a Mionix Naos (will take a lot to make me change!)

That could be the issue. I don't see a Display Port 1.4 in the product description and the QA section is vague on this topic.

Try the Amazon Basics version and see if it fairs better. It is DP 1.2 certified.

AmazonBasics Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort Display Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PWQPFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yyH0DbBDD56WM

I currently use Amazon cables and the DP 1.4 cables definitely can hit 165hz on an older Acer Predator monitor that I had.

Wild, but it only goes to 75Hz anyways, so you're good to rock with HDMI.

Just get an amazon basics.

https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8SIJY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510940291&sr=8-1&keywords=3ft+hdmi&dpID=41mJoLIiC7L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

They need not be expensive. The Amazon Basics one will be perfectly adequate.

Thanks. Really? I see them all over Amazon. I also read this which is why I was asking.

You may as well get a HDMI 2.0 as im pretty sure they are all similar prices.

Amazon even has this 2.0 going to £4 https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-2-0-Cable/dp/B014I8SIJY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501980022&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+2

Hi,
Its easily solvable, I had the same issues, solved them in ten seconds.
Sonys cables (and MS X1 even if they look fancy) are uter crap.
I own PSVR, PSPRO and 4K OLED, so I had these blackouts, less than second each.
Well I got Amazon basic cables and it solved it.
BUT dont buy 2 identical length cables, if your PSVR is close to PSPRO, get 1foot or 1.5foot tiny HDMI cable (i dont think amazon has these, they have 3 minimum, but any HDMI 1.4 cable will do fine since there are no HDMi2.0 cables, thats advertising lie, HDMI consortium has only HDMI1.4 cables and they compatible with everything.)
So get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Your-Cable-Store-Foot-Plated/dp/B00474YRE0
And one of these: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8SIJY
No more blackouts guaranteed.

Worse case, [this] (https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8SIJY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1503348903&sr=8-5&keywords=hdmi+cord)

Meh hdmi is better than dvi but there is no need to spend much on one. Any hdmi will do. Oh look here's one for a whole £4.29! https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-2-0-Cable/dp/B014I8SIJY/

I'm in high school as well and I'm planning to do something like this but I don't want to buy stuff I don't necessary need. Basically the idea to have the Mac on a stand while next to the monitor (which is on a stand as well) is connected to it. There are also speakers, and I'll be using an old keyboard that I have (usb) as well as a bluetooth mouse.

So far this is what I'm thinking:

Laptop stand: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OOYECC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

USB Hub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A29Y8OP2GPR7PE

Basic speakers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GHY5F3K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

HDMI Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8SIJY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Thunderbolt to HDMI Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DRK2ZIK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1AMUYYA3CT6HJ

And finally, the monitor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IA9FXAO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I haven't decided nor found a good stand for the monitor so if anyone can help that'd be great. Also, anybody else can comment, I was just seeing if this was buying too much or is there an easier way. I have a nrMBP mid 2012 13'' for reference.

No these ones
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014I8SIJY/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1499712910&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hdmi+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=41mJoLIiC7L&ref=plSrch

Update:

Using AmazonBasic cables as suggested and an HDMI-DisplayPort Adapter, still stuck at 60Hz.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACWG11W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015OW3M1W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8SIJY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So... any suggestions that don't involve me spending another $100?

these exist;

https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-DVI-Cable-Feet/dp/B014RWWURC/ref=asc_df_B014RWWURC/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=293004044609&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8322150343954201181&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001455&hvtargid=pla-385806723487&psc=1

Display port to dvi cable.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-DVI-Cable-Feet/dp/B014RWWURC

Price History

• DP to DVI, Rankie 6FT Gold Plated DisplayPort DP to   ^PureLink
  ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.5/5 from 118 valid reviews Warning - Has potentially fake reviews
  CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
  
• AmazonBasics DisplayPort to DVI Cable 6 Feet   ^PureLink
  ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.3/5 from 223 valid reviews Warning - Has potentially fake reviews
  CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
  
  _
  These prices aren't just Black and White.
  ^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fd79yw0%2Fgpu_asus_tuf_gaming_rx_5700_xt_580neweggca%2Ff0z38dy%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**

What is the resolution of the monitor?

If it's greater than 1920 x 1200 (i.e. 2560 x 1440/1600), you likely need an active DP to dual-link DVI adapter, such as this one:

Startech DisplayPort to DVI Dual Link Active Adapter Converter

The active adapter will need to be plugged into a USB port to power it.

Otherwise, you will be fine with just a passive video cable such as this (much cheaper):

AmazonBasics DisplayPort to DVI Cable - 6 Feet

Like this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-DVI-Cable-Feet/dp/B014RWWURC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2A8CMTH9TSFXG&keywords=displayport+to+dvi&qid=1559238973&s=gateway&sprefix=displa%2Caps%2C177&sr=8-3

Why couldn't you use an adapter?

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-DVI-Cable-Feet/dp/B014RWWURC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549886286&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=displayport+to+dvi&dpPl=1&dpID=41RG8aiF4DL&ref=plSrch

Do your monitors only have DVI? If it does you can buy a hdmi to dvi or displayport to dvi cable. If your monitors have hdmi or displayport you can just get either one of those cables as any cables and cable combination(both cables are displayport, one is displayport other is dvi, one is hdmi to dvi and the other is dvi etc.) will work with multiple monitors.

This should work for you as long as you're not going above 1080p and 60Hz.

Honestly, If I were you I'd buy two, and use both monitors on the DisplayPort outputs, that way you know you've got the best chance of them looking the same. As long as you have two DisplayPort outputs that is.

That's absurdly expensive.

More like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014RWWURC/ref=asc_df_B014RWWURC5415000/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B014RWWURC&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167126093426&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2078740479952218050&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031936&hvtargid=pla-269747820399 should work

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-DVI-Cable-Feet/dp/B014RWWURC

This is the one I have

Hey simple question

I have an r9 290x and connected asus vs278q
With an dvi to dp cable (this AmazonBasics Verbindungskabel, DisplayPort auf DVI, Full-HD, 1,8 m https://www.amazon.de/dp/B014RWWURC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7QJyybX3R0D04)

Why does it not work ? I cannot get a picture on dp.

PS sorry for formatting I'm on mobile

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-DVI-Cable-Feet/dp/B014RWWURC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1502840575&sr=8-6&keywords=display+port+to+dvi-d+adapter

If you are using the adapter as pictured, axe it and get a single DP-to-DVI cable. Never use adapters/converters/bridges, etc when possible with video connections.

https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-DVI-Cable-Feet/dp/B014RWWURC/

If this cable I linked doesn't work, time for a new monitor.

You can get any adator you find, it doesn’t matter or if you want you can get a cable direct
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-DVI-Cable-Feet/dp/B014RWWURC/ref=sxin_2?crid=4L3TJT22CA14&keywords=displayport+to+dvi&pd_rd_i=B014RWWURC&pd_rd_r=e6aa09c8-3d49-4088-89a6-774a79a7a46f&pd_rd_w=10j4q&pd_rd_wg=07Q72&pf_rd_p=9b4743f4-63fa-45a4-a01a-8d596f1446b5&pf_rd_r=R2G71Z47DV7781QX8YCE&qid=1556376685&s=gateway&sprefix=display
This one will do the job.

How about this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014RWWURC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/CHOETECH-Thunderbolt-Compatible-ChromeBook-MateBook/dp/B01LYS3Q5A/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484609737&sr=1-3&keywords=usb+c+to+hdmi

will be common place to just use these

That laptop has a USB 3.1 Type C connection. Typically those also output digital video. That would be much more suitable than finding a USB-A with active circuitry.

I can't guarantee it, but I think something like these provides what you're looking for.

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-MOKiN-Macbook-Chromebook-Gold-Plated/dp/B06ZYKQDC4/

https://www.amazon.com/CHOETECH-Thunderbolt-Compatible-Macbook-ChromeBook/dp/B01LYS3Q5A

https://www.amazon.com/CHOETECH-Thunderbolt-Compatible-Samsung-ChromeBook/dp/B01LYS3Q5A

YOU MIGHT need thunderbolt not too sure chek if it is USB 3.1 then it may work dont take my word for it!

Not sure but maybe this might work if you plug it in to a monitor

Edit: scrap that. According to this thread, pixels don't support HDMI output.

Hmm, I just tried opening one of the product results and some mention that:

• it doesnt work for Lumia, such as this
  
  > . . .cable does not allow USB-C smartphones (Except Samsung Galaxy S8 or S8 Plus)or tablets to connect to a HDMI-enabled display, for example lumia . . .
  
  
• only supports a low resolution:
  
  > Lumia 950/950XL(Display Resolution Support Max.: 720p)
  
  ***
  
  So is there a concrete way to identify which C to HDMI cables work? Also Im confused as to what resolution support Continuum scales up to?

No, USB C to HDMI adapter. https://www.amazon.com/CHOETECH-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-ChromeBook/dp/B01LYS3Q5A

USB-B? That's never come on a laptop as far as I know. Does it happen to look like this? If so, that's a mini DisplayPort which would be a perfect solution for another display output. If you have USB-C, there's certainly a chance that you could do display out that way. You'd have to look at the specs for your machine to see what it supports. You'd just be able to use a dongle like this to make that work out.

Worst case scenario, you could get something like this dock here. That display out is done at a software level, so once you connect via USB 3.0 you'd have your display out and some extra USB ports to plug other things into (and since you'd need at least one extra port to plug your Rift since the dock would take up 1/3 of your USB ports, this would work out). I'm not entirely sure just how much CPU resources that would use, so keep that in mind if the CPU on your laptop is on the lower end, but it is another option to keep in your back pocket at least.

Im sure someone tested a USB C to HDMI Cable and it didn't work otherwise there would have been a lot of news saying it's possible

https://www.amazon.com/CHOETECH-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-ChromeBook/dp/B01LYS3Q5A

I'm thinking about getting a monitor to hook up my Dell XPS 13 to. Which one should I get? I was looking for monitors sub $150, and these four are what I've found so far:

Acer R240HY

ASUS VX228H

HP Pavillion 22CWA

ASUS VS228H-P

My thoughts about the monitors: I like the VX228H for dual HDMI (it'd be nice to be able to switch between laptop and switch without unplugging and switching cables from the monitor every time, but not having it isn't a dealbreaker), the Acer and HP both look nice too (I like me some small bezels), and the VS228H-P I'm not too sure about.

I plan on using this monitor for general use, slight gaming, and with the switch, so nothing too crazy.

ALSO, to connect the laptop to the monitor, do I have to buy this USB C to HDMI cable to connect the two? Or is there another, better way? Thanks!

the last 2 LG phones I've had have had mini HDMI output, you have to buy the cable separately though

look for something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYS3Q5A

>The previous MBP could easily connect to most.

How did it connect? A thunderbolt to HDMI cable perhaps? Gee this will be impossible with the new macbook... oh wait?

Please show me a USB drive that doesn't work with USB-C... ill wait.

Yes youre right USB sticks are super useful. If only there was an option for USB-C

This might work, but I'm not sure if the 6P is compatible with it.

Edit: It looks like it doesn't, and the 6P doesn't support video output. Source

If you don't need 4k @ 60Hz, this one will work [Link] (https://www.amazon.com/CHOETECH-Thunderbolt-Compatible-ChromeBook-MateBook/dp/B01LYS3Q5A/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1482888676&sr=1-3&keywords=usb+c+to+hdmi+cable)

https://www.amazon.com/uni-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-Surface/dp/B075V5JK36/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=usb+c+to+hdmi&qid=1565392876&s=gateway&sprefix=usb+c+to+hdmi&sr=8-3

This is the cable I use. I haven’t noticed any issues when it comes to quality.

What type of laptop is it? Does it have another port (ie VGA or USB-C)? If so, you can generally get another adapter for that port to HDMI.

VGA to HDMI

https://www.amazon.com/Gold-Plated-Compatible-Projector-Chromebook-Raspberry/dp/B07CTK4TH4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=vga+to+hdmi&qid=1565983474&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

USB-C to HDMI

https://www.amazon.com/uni-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-Surface/dp/B075V5JK36/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb-c+to+hdmi&qid=1565983517&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I guess there is?

https://www.amazon.com/uni-Thunderbolt-Compatible-Pixelbook-More-Space/dp/B075V5JK36/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1510867302&sr=8-9&keywords=usb-c+hdmi+cable

would this cable be fine to connect my SB 2 to Dell 4K?

I bought one for my projector.

USB C to HDMI Cable(4K@60Hz), uni... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075V5JK36?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Any monitor with an HDMI connection should work with a USB-C to HDMI cable like this one.

Since you’re using this frequently I’d ask yourself what resolution (1080p, 1440p, 4K), size (24-32”), and panel type are important to you, and see if you can find a monitor in your budget with those specs. I’d go to an electronics store and look at some if you’re unsure.

The monitor you posted is probably fine, but if you dropped searching for USB-C, you might find there are more options for you.

I am doing it today with my usb-c to HDMI cable. Works perfectly.

https://www.amazon.com/uni-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-Surface/dp/B075V5JK36
USB C to HDMI Cable(4K@60Hz), uni USB Type ... - Amazon.com

I'm not sure what you mean. All I can find are things like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/uni-Thunderbolt-Compatible-Pixelbook-More-Space/dp/B075V5JK36/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1550351717&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=hdmi+to+usb+c+cable&psc=1

Which only seem to be designed for changing USB C to HDMI, not the other way round.

I’m just using the Apple USB-C multimedia adapter with HDMI for one display. The other is just a HDMI to USB-C cable.

I get full resolution and refresh rates, 1920x1080 at 60Hz.

HDMI USB-C cable
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075V5JK36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-y3-BbPB3Y9W8

Displays
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GTV05XG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9z3-BbFT2D2E3

You'll need an adapter, or a cable that specifically goes from the USB-C/Thunderbolt 3 port to the HDMI/DisplayPort/Thunderbolt 2.

I use this cable for my desk at work, and then I bought a pair of them for use at home. https://www.amazon.com/uni-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-Pixelbook/dp/B075V5JK36/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543236448&sr=8-3&keywords=uni+usbc+to+hdmi

https://www.amazon.com/uni-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-Surface/dp/B075V5JK36 this works like a charm for me. USB C to 4K 60Hz HDMI on XPS 9370.

Just get a Usbc to Hdmi cable. There's plenty available on eBay or Amazon. The only thing you need to check is that the cable supports 4k@60hz for hdmi.

Here’s an example - https://www.amazon.com/uni-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-Surface/dp/B075V5JK36/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=usbc+to+hdmi+cable&qid=1570486971&sr=8-3

this one

It’s pretty amazing, never had any issues with it. It turns the monitor on like 3 seconds slower than native HDMI but it works well aside from that.

I don't believe so.

You'd have to go: iPhone (Lightning to HDMI) - https://www.apple.com/shop/product/MD826AM/A/lightning-digital-av-adapter

.. and then HDMI to USB-C cable into the Monitor - https://www.amazon.com/uni-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-Surface/dp/B075V5JK36/ref=sr_1_4?gclid=CjwKCAiAlO7uBRANEiwA_vXQ-x2v_w-tbQgg3l2uPHLNKYBgvKkOa76dq6dyR1OgIAQ0b-Fjz6S3YhoCDwYQAvD_BwE&hvadid=153631222293&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1014517&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=5479689917172431130&hvtargid=aud-840076997981%3Akwd-139069315006&hydadcr=18003_9429332&keywords=hdmi+to+usb-c&qid=1574712519&sr=8-4

I THINK that would work,. but never tried it.

There's an $80 converter that Wacom officially said works, but I'm also currently looking to resolve this exact issue for my fiance and her laptop, and have found a POSSIBLE solution ( https://www.amazon.com/uni-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-Pixelbook/dp/B075V5JK36/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519980480&sr=1-8&keywords=USB-C+to+HDMI ), and just posted here asking if people think this solution would work. It's a lot cheaper solution, and when you invest that much into something, you want to save as much as you can after! Lol. If I hear back before I see a response here, I'll definitely let you know!

Would it work if I bought a USB C to HDMI cable? Something like this.

Fantastic, this is very helpful!! Regarding your monitor setup: what exactly is the DisplayPotI? I have two monitors, and I believe each can be connected either via HDMI or VGA, so I suppose either option would work. So I'm assuming I'm looking for a cable that goes USB-C to either HDMI or VGA? Ands also, since its two displays, I would need to use both USB-C ports on the MB, right? and I also need one available for charging. which means I wouldn't have one available to connect the hub? Or I could use one USB-C to HDMI adapter for one monitor, and HDMI (from hub) to HDMI I suppose. Well in any case, I think I've got enough good information to go off of with your recommendations and find something that meets my needs. As long as the hub can support my monitors and mouse (and preferably keyboard), and be as easy as plugging in one cable into the laptop, than it seems like a cheaper and equally as easy alternative to a dock. Thanks again!

Edit: So I found these, based on your suggestion. Different brands, but I'm thinking going with either:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079DM6VH8/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B079DM6VH8&pd_rd_wg=lSUHl&pd_rd_r=H0VWS7K7YZYMZG9R9GXR&pd_rd_w=C5GGs

or

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076TJ7ZTH/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B076TJ7ZTH&pd_rd_wg=lSUHl&pd_rd_r=H0VWS7K7YZYMZG9R9GXR&pd_rd_w=C5GGs

for a hub. Not sure if one seems better than the other.

and then for the second monitor,

https://www.amazon.com/uni-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-Pixelbook/dp/B075V5JK36/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526664882&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+-c+to+hdmi

I think this should work, and allow it so that all I need to do is connect the hub, just as easily as docking it I would think, to make it my desktop

I have the i7 version and had the same problem. The issue is that this Intel chip can only ouput 4k/60hz using the USB-C display port. Using the HDMI port outputs 4k/30hz. You can buy a cheap USB-C to HDMI cable on Amazon. I bought this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075V5JK36/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Once I hooked it up to my 4k LG TV, it displayed properly at 60hz.

I still don't have the Razer phone I'm waiting for Razer Phone 2
But I use this USB Type C to HDMI cable https://amzn.to/2xuT2L9 with my Samsumg S8 for gameplay recording with Elgato 4K and it works great.
Sample video https://youtu.be/OWgIZy3rcSM

display port

Do you think this is a good option?

Have you updated the bios via via usb as well as updated the chipset drivers?

I havnt done too much testing but I ran FurMark for 15 min or so and it didn’t crash - be careful with FurMark it could do actual damage if you don’t watch the temps. For the record I’ve crashed in Fortnite, LoL, and in stardew valley when I clicked to close a windows notification >.<

Also about the positioning of the gpu, I noticed that it doesn’t quite fit exactly right and it does indeed get too close to the lip of the expansion slots. Idk if there’s a fix for that besides bending the case.. (which I haven’t done) try a new cable maybe I am using these ivanky DisplayPort cables, or open the case loosen the screws on the expansion slot and then lift up on the gpu CAREFULLY then put the screws back in. Could also try a vertical gpu riser if your case supports doing so.

Is this one good ?
https://www.amazon.com/ivanky-DisplayPort-Braided-Display-Compatible/dp/B078HVDMW2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=displayport+cable+144hz&qid=1566857891&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I have this monitor and was using this DP cable. I'm not really sure if its 1.3 or 1.2 but I tried using the HDMI cable from my second monitor and it worked perfectly fine on HDMI but I can only get 60 hz instead of 144hz. Today I went out and bought a new DP cable because I thought my current one was broken but I'm still getting no signal so I'm not sure what to make of that.

Most hdmi cables can’t support that so I would recommend getting another display port here is the one that I use and works great while still being relatively cheap
ivanky DisplayPort Cable 6.6ft DP Cable Nylon Braided [2K@165Hz, 2K@144Hz, 4K@60Hz] Display Port Cable High Speed DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable Compatible PC, Laptop, TV - Slim Aluminum Shell, Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078HVDMW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nOjqDbV5PKJQA

The Ivanky one on amazon has great reviews and has served me well for the past few weeks that I've had it. It also comes with a lifetime warranty, which I was informed of by email after the package arrived.
https://www.amazon.com/ivanky-DisplayPort-Braided-Display-Compatible/dp/B078HVDMW2

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078HVDMW2/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_BzPXBb2ES2NM1

You want something with specifications and quality assurance

Have XB271HU made this year. 1070Ti. Quality DP cable from Ivanky

• Refresh rate set to 144 Hz (maximum) on desktop and at games
  
• Resolution is 1440p everywhere
  
• Games are always full-screen
  
• Deep Sleep is off in the monitor's settings
  
  Unfortunately problem still here. And it doesn't necessary happens in games or alt-tabbing.
  
  Three hours ago I left my PC in windows desktop and eventually it went to sleep. 5 minutes ago, just before writing this post I woke it up and was greeted with windows login screen with line cut in the middle and transferred to left edge, as always. No games involved.
  
  ​
  
  Thank you for trying to help anyway, I appreciate it.

This one is popular https://www.amazon.com/ivanky-DisplayPort-Braided-Display-Compatible/dp/B078HVDMW2/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=displayport+cable&qid=1559174329&s=gateway&sprefix=display&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

iVanky if you don't like the clips that you have to press to eject them. I've had some issues where some of them became stuck inside my monitor's port.

done that.

I bought and tried these from amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/ivanky-DisplayPort-Braided-Display-Compatible/dp/B078HVDMW2/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=2UKX58JABC7TH&keywords=dp+cable&qid=1556009677&s=gateway&sprefix=dp+ca%2Caps%2C194&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

+ other cable from different brand.

I have an ROG Swift PG279Q monitor and it looks like the display port cable died on me this morning as the HDMI port works and i get an image from my GPU

My question is there a cetain display port cable i need to get as a replacement? I'm aware of the different "versions" of Display Port and HDMI so does it matter whether i buy the Amazon Basics Display cable or this other brand one

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/dp/B01J8S6X2I/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=display+port&qid=1556036622&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&s=gateway&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/ivanky-DisplayPort-Braided-Display-Compatible/dp/B078HVDMW2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=display+port&qid=1556036461&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Thanks so would something like this displayport work fine for me?

Ok great info. I appreciate the clarification. I’ve found these cords which look right up my alley. DisplayPort Cords
I’ll check out a cheaper second monitor as well
Save some money that I can spend on the steam sale instead. Again really appreciate it!!

This bad boy right here

To be honest, not too sure what the UFO test is. I just went back and read your post. The model number is S2719DGF. The 155 is overclocked through OSD, works well with no issues, but it comes out of box 144. If you are talking about motion blur it has a super high rating on RTINGS, a 9.9. Its a beautiful monitor! I am rather busy with work and school, so I have played maybe about 20 hours or so of games since I bought it, but have been lazy and have not calibrated it or anything too time consuming. $319 is a steal, I just had them price adjust mine, since I bought it two weeks ago for $380 from BB. It retails anywhere from $300s to mid $400s. $319 is the lowest I've seen it.

I honestly love it! I have a RTX2060, and I normally do not get near the 155hz, normally like 100 to 120fps, but crystal clear image, decent colors (amazing post-calibration according to the internet), and great design. I will mention that BB and other retailers are claiming that it has a 8,000,000:1 contrast ratio, but that is dynamic, so not a true number. Freesync works great with it, now that Nvidia released drivers. Other than that, well worth buy if you are in the market for a monitor.

Link for Best Buy:

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/dell-s2719dgf-27-led-qhd-freesync-monitor-black/6293714.p?skuId=6293714

​

Link for RTINGS (Read this before you buy or if on the fence):

https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/dell/s2719dgf

​

Link for Display Port Cable since it does not come with one (I got this one and it works wonderfully):

https://www.amazon.com/ivanky-DisplayPort-Braided-Display-Compatible/dp/B078HVDMW2/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=displayport+cable&qid=1555286414&s=electronics&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1

Yes there is! Buy DisplayPort 1.4 cables. Here's an Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/ivanky-DisplayPort-Braided-Display-Compatible/dp/B078HVDMW2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=displayport+1.4&qid=1556579585&s=gateway&sr=8-5
I wish you the best gaming experience!

how about this?

Just bought this cable it looked good so let’s hope it works

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078HVDMW2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Love mine.

It's certainly worth a shot and isn't too expensive to try. I've recently picked up this cable and it has been treating me well.

Buy these cables (or similar ones) and hook up the ps2 with them assuming your tv has the inputs.

One of the reasons it looks bad is because all the video info is squeezed into that one yellow cable, so the quality gets degraded.


The component cables in the link send different parts of the video through different wires, so the quality is really good.


It wont look perfect, but it will look a lot better.

These are the cables I bought and they work fine.

http://www.amazon.com/Intec-Component-Cable-PS2-Playstation-2/dp/B00005MDZD

Gamestop used to sell a special component cable that would work with PS2, PS3, X360 and Wii, but I can't seem to find it anymore.

Better sit down, cuz I am about to blow. your. mind.

http://www.amazon.com/Component-%252fV-Cable-Playstation-2/dp/B00005MDZD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1325296137&sr=8-1

Sorry didn't see your reply before now. Here's a cheap set on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Intec-Component-Cable-PS2-Playstation-2/dp/B00005MDZD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370878620&sr=8-1&keywords=ps2+component

https://www.amazon.com/Intec-Component-AV-Cable-Playstation/dp/B00005MDZD/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1492445350&sr=8-2&keywords=ps2+component+cable

https://www.amazon.com/AVerMedia-Adapter-Component-Output-ET113/dp/B00TQ6ZCF2/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1492445372&sr=8-10&keywords=component+to+hdmi

I second the comment on component cables. I changed over to them on my HDTV this year and it was like a revelation. Well not that big a difference but all the blurriness went away. They're pretty cheap too. I got one at a local shop. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Component-V-Cable-Playstation-2/dp/B00005MDZD

Thank you so much!! :) Sounds like component cables might be the way to go for now then. If I was only doing PS1 games, I'd probably get SCART, but I'm doing a mix of PS1, PS2, and even some Gamecube games, and it sounds like component cables will cause the least amount of compatibility issues.

There is one last small question I have. I was looking at the PS2 component cables here, I noticed that the D-Terminal to Component Adapter that I can buy with the Framemeister has only 3 female sockets, when the PS2 cables have 5 cords. Is this normal, or am I looking at the wrong kind of PS2 cables or something?

Thanks again! :)

I initially bought these cheap ones on Amazon.

When I thought they were the issue, I went back and bout these used Sony brand cables on amazon

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005MDZD

Correct. In your original post, you state that your Thinkpad has an HDMI output. That means that you'd connect your Thinkpad to the Splitter linked above via HDMI.

From there, you would purchase two HDMI to DVI-D Cables, similar to these, and connect them to your two monitors that have DVI-D inputs. As mentioned by /u/Gimpyistaken, this will only duplicate video.

http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-PCM-2296-06-HDMI-Cable/dp/B0007MWE1E

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDMI-DVI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B001TH7T2U

You can get it done by connecting the laptop and the monitor with any of the above.

There are a plethora of HDMI to DVI-D cables on Amazon that you can choose from. Pretty much anything like this cable will do.

Well, I'm going to assume you want a standard 20 inch or so lcd monitor, which typically have hdmi or dvi, and a vga.

• Laptop is easiest, it should have a vga out, and a hdmi out. Probably best to use the hdmi or dvi.
  
• Now, I'm not sure what inputs the 360 has these days, I beleive it's vga port was replaced with hdmi, and if so, then it will just have to share that hdmi/dvi port with the laptop, unless the monitor has both. Also, this will probably be useful if it only has a dvi.
  
• Lastly, the ps2 does not have any digital out if remember correctly, so your best bet is to use a component to vga adapter, like this.
  
• Here is a fairly cheap monitor with dvi and vga.

So you won't buy a graphics card because it would require you to buy a 6 dollar adapter? Case in point: https://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-PCM-2296-06-HDMI-Cable/dp/B0007MWE1E

HDMI and DVI are electrically compatible, i.e. all you need is a cable with a DVI plug on one end and a HDMI plug on the other.

Like this. https://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-PCM-2296-06-HDMI-Cable/dp/B0007MWE1E

Your mileage may vary if you're trying to do anything with DRM, though.

How about HDMI -> D-DVI connector, might work? Randomly found this https://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-PCM-2296-06-HDMI-Cable/dp/B0007MWE1E

I'm actually looking for the form factor, which is the size in a nutshell, of the the power supply. There are primarily two types, ATX and SFX. Which one does your current PC use ?

Common dimensions : ATX - 150 × 86 × 140 mm / 5.9 × 3.4 × 5.5 in. SFX - 125 × 63.5 × 100 mm / 4.92 × 2.5 × 3.94 in. (W×L×H)

If you're planning to replace the case soon, I can suggest some if you want. My suggestion are based around build quality and airflow without being too expensive, included case fans is a plus. I reckon you'll stay with mini-itx (small form factor) cases ?


I'll put the top-rated Western Digital Carvier Blue 1TB HDD on the list for now, 44.89USD with 0.04USD price/GB. Somehow it's cheaper then the 500GB model (69.89USD) on PcPartPicker. If you'll get my recommended SSD in the future, you would need to reach for the M.2 slot, and doing so might require you to partially take apart the PC. If you have any trouble, just go on YouTube, tons of tutorials available. Reminder to move your OS from HDD to SSD.


It's fine if you don't have a monitor, but do know that if the TV doesn't have high enough refresh rate, you won't need such mid-high end graphics card to begin with. By the way, note that the part list includes new Mobo, CPU, and RAM.

Edit : Might as well ~ DVI to HDMI Suggestion 1 Suggestion 2

Do not use VGA.

Get a cable that has DVI on one side and HDMI on the other ... like this one.

This will allow you to connect your HDMI video out to your DVI in your monitor. DVI and HDMI both carry a digital video signal.

Here you go

Edit: I'm not familiar with the different standards for DVI, so make sure you're getting the correct DVI adapter (e.g. DVI-D vs DVI-I, single & dual link)

Ah thank you.. also, can I hook this up to my monitor from the switch? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007MWE1E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2C3T2TJLRN6F6 and not have problems with video output?

With a DVI-I to VGA adapter, a DVI-I to HDMI cable, and an HDMI cable, it looks like you would not be able to run that config.

They make DVI-D to HDMI cables. If you replaced the DVI-I to HDMI cable with that, you should be fine. The four pins on the DVI-I port that are not on the DVI-D port are what push the analog signal. Without those four pins, you would need an expensive set-top box to output an analog signal. The DVI-I port needs to be used for the VGA display, whereas the DVI-I to HDMI cable can be replaced relatively cheaply.

try this

Hmm, so you've tried inputing a vga to hdmi lead into the console before? My understanding is that Analog (VGA) to Digital (HDMI) requires conversion via something like this

Edit: Amazon Comments seem to support this belief.

Edit 2:
I know you didn't really ask for this advice but seeing as the converter looks to cost ~$20-25 and may actually result in lower quality (VGA can increase in resolution but loses sharpness as it is filtered by default) you might consider upgrading your GPU. That way there's no extra wires, you get a crisp clean signal, a slight performance boost, and it's all for about the same price and more or less guaranteed to work where the converter may or may not.

• Radeon HD 2400 Pro (current) + convert == 126 points $21.79
  
  Output = VGA
  
  
• XFX Radeon HD 5450 1GB DDR3 == 200 points ($35)
  
  
  Output = VGA, DVI, HDMI
  
  
• EVGA GeForce 210 1GB DDR3 == 185 points ($19.99)
  
  
  Output = VGA, DVI, HDMI
  
  
  That's just a two second search on Newegg. Like I said I know you didn't ask but I thought you might like the heads up before spending money that might unknowingly benefit you more elsewhere. Also to be clear these cards assume your current card is PCIe. Most of your card model are easy to tell with a quick google search if you don't know already.
  
  
  

> Still, generally speaking you don't have to look at system requirements when buying a console game.

You usually don't have to do that for gaming PCs, too. I've been gaming on PC for years, and I never once referenced system requirements. I used to manually adjust settings, but with nVidia's GEForce Experience software, I don't even need to do that, as it optimizes settings automatically based on your PC.

>I understand that newer PC's and Laptops will have HDMI out on them but I still see several people with older system's that are without one. And because they aren't using them for gaming I doubt they feel the need to buying a new one until their current one stops working.

In that case, you can buy a VGA to HDMI adapter off Amazon for $5 or a DVI to HDMI adapter off Amazon for $2.

I would not try an svideo personally. I have my 360 plugged into my tv using an HDMI cable. But if your going into a monitor that doesn't have HDMI, you could use a HDMI to vga or dvi depending on what you need, and then rca audio to rca female to 3.5 mm female, then plug in pc speakers to the adapter. Linked below are the parts. This is what I would try, I don't know that it would work.

Plug audio from 360 and pc speakers into this:

http://www.amazon.com/Manhattan-inches-Stereo-Splitter-3-5mm-Adapter/dp/B0009JFF7A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372430037&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+female+to+3.5+mm+female

Plug one of these HDMI cables into the 360 and the monitor:

http://www.amazon.com/Video-Cable-Black-Support-Necessary/dp/B002TUC64W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1372429330&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+to+vga+cable

http://www.amazon.com/DVI-HDMI-Cable-6ft-Male-Male/dp/B0002CZHN6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1372429391&sr=8-2&keywords=hdmi+to+dvi+cable

HDMI does carry sound, but dvi and vga don't deliver it. I hope that helps.

http://www.amazon.com/VGA-HDMI-Cable-6-feet/dp/B002TUC64W is the link to the one i bought. Yeah, I thought at the time is was too easy but for $4 I thought I would try. Now I would like something that would for sure work.

There are VGA to HDMI cords.

Like this?

Hopefully you can get your rPi doing great things!

Alright thanks! Now why won't this work exactly, if you could expand on the analog and digital bit?

Edit: Would an RCA cable like this work instead?

i have this but that also isnt working except on my tv (im probably doing somehting wrong idk)

can you tell me something i do need less than 10 dollars?

I believe I need a displayport with a VGA active adapter. http://www.amazon.com/Accell-UltraAV-B101B-003B-Display-Adapter/dp/B003HC85D2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1318283747&sr=1-1

Anyone know if this is correct?

Not sure if there is a passive one, but Iknow this one will work. I have it and it works great and allowed me to use 3 monitors with one 5770.

http://www.amazon.com/Accell-UltraAV-B101B-003B-Display-Adapter/dp/B003HC85D2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1318394867&sr=8-2

http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B101B-003B-UltraAV-Display-Adapter/dp/B003HC85D2

What's the brand and model # of your graphics card?

• If you're trying to plug in two VGA monitors, you'll likely need this adapter for the second one.

I was worried about that. In my experience, if the onboard video is being used it won't allow you to use the pci card, that's why dell covers them. But sometimes it works. its a motherboard thing. :(

http://www.amazon.com/Accell-UltraAV-B101B-003B-Display-Adapter/dp/B003HC85D2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344061458&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+to+vga

Best bet :/ other than purchasing a new video card.

You can also use a DP > VGA adapter like this. I'm sure there are less expensive ones out there too.

so something like this will work?

https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B101B-003B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B003HC85D2

Non-mobile: this would make the 295x2 work perfectly with your CRT monitor

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

this is not true... I'm using a display port to vga adapter to type this right now on Eyefinity...

Specifically this one

Thank you for the response, it does make sense. The only problem is dropping the money for another 5870 isn't practical for me. I was looking around and found this Display Port with VGA Active Adapter. Wouldn't that resolve the problem??

I've had good luck with AMD cards. This setup has a fairly ancient 5770 with a pair of dvi and minidisplay ports. I then have to inline an active adapter as my thrid display doesn't have a displayport.

Don't mean to be rude or anything but this would make the 295x2 work perfectly with your CRT monitor

https://www.amazon.com/Mini_Dis-HDMI-CB6-Mini-DisplayPort-Adapter-Cable/dp/B003OC6LWM problem solved

Don't know how old is "older", but this works for my 2008 mbp

It looks just like this, but its not 6 feet. I'm sure its the same brand as mine, but only about 5 inches long. I bought mine off amazon, also.

http://www.amazon.com/Mini-DisplayPort-HDMI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B003OC6LWM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I2C2WSYFK07OWY&colid=ERJRWF83N1LV

I'm your average broke college kid and I would love to have this to take back home with me for the holidays. thank you!!

> The device needs to work on WiFi without Internet access.

I don't think you're going to get that—all devices capable of playing Plex (Chromecast, Roku, AppleTV, Amazon Firestick) all require internet access, as the device is directly communicating with your server. Read this from the Plex support docs:

>It's important to note that the Chromecast streams content directly from the Plex Media Server (or Cloud Sync).

>When you use a mobile device or browser to initiate a cast, the content does not go "through" that device and then to the Chromecast; you're free to disconnect or turn off the casting app at any time if you wish to do so and that won't affect the stream.

Best solution for you: get a cable that allows you to hook up your laptop to a TV.

If you have a Mac, one of these will do it, if you have a newer PC, it may have a HDMI port so all you'd need is a HDMI cable. If the laptop is older and only has a VGA output, you'd have to get something like this that is capable of converting the signal.

this is the same exact one i bought. it is cheap and a descent length. what more do you want!

Yes those. If your monitor doesn't have one, somthing like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Mini-DisplayPort-HDMI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B003OC6LWM

or this:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?p_id=5106

Should work.

I just threw on this Gigabyte HD 7970 on my new gaming PC and it works like a charm. It's well know, reliable, and has multiple ports. While it says it doesn't have two HDMI ports right off the bat, it has one HDMI port and 2 mini display ports. You can easily get either a converter, or a cable that goes from mini display port to HDMI (here is one that is $5 for 6 ft, cheaper than some HDMI cables). Mine even came with an adapter in the box, so I'd definitely consider this as an option.

decibel... This and since this is cheap maybe give something to some one else?

yeah. I cast the tab using that chromecast chrome extension, then hit full screen... which makes it go full screen on the TV, but not my computer (so I can talk to these wackos at r/phish)... This is from memory though, haven't done it since mexico streams.... As far as other direct ways, I've also connected my laptop to the tv via this very cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003OC6LWM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The only downside to that is that it makes it harder to talk to the wackos at r/phish during the show

I've been using C&E adapters from Amazon for years without issue:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003OC6LWM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Final edit for now: This method produces suitably high-res videos on the hard drive, but they lose a ton of fidelity when they get uploaded. I'll leave this up for now; hopefully someone can advise.

This isn't as ideal as an all-inclusive app, but there is a pretty easy way to do what you need if you have access to a MacBook. You would want to:

• Connect the MacBook to the projector (you might find this item helpful)
  
• Connect the iPad Pro to the MacBook
  
• Boot up the preinstalled copy of QuickTime Player on the MacBook
  
• Select New Movie Recording from the file menu
  
• In the window that pops up, click the little arrow next to the record button and change the camera to the iPad Pro
  
• Drag the window as needed for your projection
  
• Boot up ZoomNotes on the iPad Pro
  
• Make the QuickTime window full screen
  
• Start recording
  
  It seems somewhat involved, but it took me more time to write out these directions than it did to actually record and upload a sample video. Total cake after you do it once or twice.
  
  Hope this helps!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003OC6LWM/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

Seriously? They are like $3 on amazon.

Edit: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003OC6LWM/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?qid=1453383749&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX220_SY330_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=mini+display+to+hdmi&dpPl=1&dpID=31UyLpBdAOL&ref=plSrch

Most cables should work, but be sure to read lots of reviews. If the cable isn't properly shielded, you may run into interference issues with your WiFi on your MacBook.

This is the one I use and I haven't had any issues with it. Convenient having a single cable for video and audio when plugging into my TV.

Long-term you should just buy a 144Hz display port monitor. Otherwise this is about as cheap a good option as you'll get for converters. https://www.amazon.com/Dell-BIZLINK-DisplayPort-Adapter-Powered/dp/B003XYBA72

Most people here will be wary of recommending something and even the rules state "We are not a review site. Don't ask us to compare or recommend products". Also, the kind of adapter you need is notorious for breaking, sometimes before you even get it, leaving you with a passive adapter stuck at 1920x1200.

I would suggest trying /r/buildapc or /r/pcmasterrace. I found a few on Amazon that does this, but the ones with more than a 3 star rating are 60-120$.

Examples: 60$, 113$. These are just examples. I do not in any way recommend these, I have no idea if they are good or not.

Hi, the below adapter will work as I have suggested it to one of my users that had a GPU with single link DVI-D GPU only (GTX 760) and a QNIX qx2710 korean monitor. She came back to me saying that it's working perfectly fine. Although I doubt you will be able to OC your monitor using it.

The price is incorrect on amazon, when I linked it to her, it used to cost about 30 EUR, now it has jumped up for some reason. Try and shop around for this model maybe.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dell-BizLink-DisplayPort-Adapter-Powered/dp/B003XYBA72/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1477319183&sr=8-5&keywords=dvi+dual+link+adapter

edit: It is important that it comes with extra USB cable! Without USB those are just single link DVI-D converters and they won't be able to display anything (it'll be just full screen colors changing randomly).

You need a dp to dual link DVI active adapter. It will be a big block with an extra USB cable to power.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003XYBA72

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00856WJH8

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00A493CNY/

Only options. The cheapest dell one will work fine.

You need an active display port adapter as the monitor is dvi-d.

Adapter reference

DUAL LINK DVI is NOT "2 DVIs"
Commonly referred to as DVI-D it's just a different cable. You MUST have an active converter though. That link is for reference, now find what you need.

DVI chart

Edit - here's what you want. You will not find a better price brand new, these are expensive, it sucks I know, I have a DP to DVI-DL that I needed so I ponied up for one.

Those dvi-hdmi adapters don't usually have dual link dvi in them, which is what you need for high refresh rate. You just need to make sure you have a dual link adapter.

Apparently this would be what you want. YMMV.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Dell-Bizlink-Displayport-DP-to-DVI-D-Dual-Link-Adapter-Active-w-USB-OXT625/202726628346?hash=item2f3372dbfa:g:YiAAAOSwMs9dH5sM thought it's a mixed bag of results https://www.amazon.com/Dell-BIZLINK-DisplayPort-Adapter-Powered/dp/B003XYBA72

All the passive ones as the same garbage the active adapters cost $100>

https://www.amazon.com/Dell-BIZLINK-DisplayPort-Adapter-Powered/dp/B003XYBA72

And even these are borderline they are designed to support 2560x1600 which is a pixel clock of 268, you 340 or so for 1080p @ 120 even with reduced blanking.

I may be purchasing the Dell BIZLINK second hand later this week. Fingers crossed!

Sell/return the monitor.

This page list two DP->DL-DVI adapter that can get you 144hz, but look at the price.

https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/729232-guide-to-display-cables-adapters-v2/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ISVI3U
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XYBA72

Only if it's an active (powered with circuitry, not just a wire) one like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Dell-BIZLINK-DisplayPort-Adapter-Powered/dp/B003XYBA72/ref=asc_df_B003XYBA72/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309764501757&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=409452311959790720&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033283&hvtargid=pla-406638566812&psc=1

People say this one gets 144hz

What brand and model of monitor do you have? I’m surprised you don’t have a DisplayPort connection on your monitor. Even my old Asus VG248 has a DisplayPort and it came out back in like 2011 or something. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a 144 Hz monitor without a DisplayPort connection.

I think that is normal for this new generation. My 2080 Ti only has DisplayPort and HDMI. I think DVI is being replaced by DisplayPort. That being said outside of getting a monitor that supports DisplayPort, I’m not sure if you have many options. I haven’t heard of anyone getting 144 Hz running through a DVI to DisplayPort adapter unless it was a really expensive powered adapter, up to 100 dollars and even then it may or may not work. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003XYBA72/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

That’s all I have, maybe someone else has a better solution.

XFX R9 390 with the 10 foot version of this Monoprice HDMI cable : https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Commercial-Premium-Female-Extension/dp/B004C4SECG

also using this 10 foot USB extension: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U

I got artifacts with those HDMi cables. One cable gave me intermittent streaks. The other gave me snow on the left lens.

I used this cable and got no artifact: http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Commercial-Premium-Female-Extension/dp/B004C4SECG?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

I got this cable (https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Commercial-Premium-Female-Extension/dp/B004C4SECG) from the wiki and didn't try it yet but the cable is way too thick and too stiff. I will return it to find one like the UK of the wiki where is ultra slim. I have too that repeater ordered but from ebay, then I have to wait 3-4 weeks.

Here you go:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The HDMI cable is probably much better than the Bestbuy one since it's 24AWG (which is usually only used on longer cables). All in all the price is about the same with dollar conversion. You can get it a bit cheaper directly from Monoprice if you want to wait (it is the HDMI 24AWG commercial cable).

These ones worked for me.
I also have that Inateck 4 USB card though which solved my USB power issues.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00GV0MUJ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What did you use to extend the USB portion? I used these two and have no change in latency

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7S2FRE/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004C4SECG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You really gotta make sure the usb side is active (powered) usb 3.0, as far as I can tell that’s the only

Yeah works great, though the cable is REALLY thick. My only complaint is the power extension cable says it is 10', but it is actually about 2 inches shorter than the HDMI and USB cable which makes it slightly a pain to plug in. Other than that, no issues. Here is everything I ordered:

HDMI cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004C4SECG

Power cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H8Q8EGA

USB cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U

Sleeving: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UHQMYW

I'm having luck with this one. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've been very pleased with the build quality on these, though I've not done 4k with them. They feel high quality and are dirt cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-Wall-High-Speed-Cable/dp/B004GW25WY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484704969&sr=8-3&keywords=50+ft+hdmi

So just to be clear, I should have 2 50 foot hdmi cables with a repeater in between them?
And I think these hdmi cables look better:

https://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-Wall-High-Speed-Cable/dp/B004GW25WY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519238634&sr=8-3&keywords=high+speed+hdmi+50+foot

And a cat6a would be good enough for the usb extension?
There is 3(ish) things that concern me with this setup.
1)
I have stated this concern here
https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/7z3yai/usb_kvm_extender_problem/
And this would apply to the usb to ethernet extension.
2)
The hdmi repeater you linked to seems too slow.
The specs for it says max speed output is 6.0 Gbps, and hdmi 1.3 needs 10.2 Gbps.
3)
Lag, I plan on playing fps games and stuff on my desk and I can't have usb lag slowing me down.

I guess I'm confused - if the max usable usb length is 5m, then why do they sell 50' lengths?

http://www.amazon.com/HDE-High-Speed-480Mbps-Extension-Repeater/dp/B00GLZYG6M?ie=UTF8&colid=1TCP9F9SLAVIV&coliid=I1ZE7CT0N999FI&psc=1&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl

Ditto for HDMI: http://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-High-Speed-Cable-wall/dp/B004GW25WY?ie=UTF8&colid=1TCP9F9SLAVIV&coliid=I3HIWILOABOJUB&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl

I mean, I could probably do HDMI / USB > Ethernet > HDMI / USB connections, but it seems a bit silly if the full length cords are readily available and reasonably priced.

The thing about a repeater is that it would be bulky and above my door.

What would you think of this

What do you mean by not enough juice coming from the Gpu? I'm asking this because my current build has a 50 ft hdmi cable going from my Gpu(Gtx 1070 FE) to a TV across the room. How is this different in the Oculus?(I genuinely do not know) When I purchased this cable, I read some hdmi cables, because of how they're made, don't always output signal, especially if they're long(typing this from memory), so I made sure to read reviews thoroughly and the cable I purchased was capable of this. Would such a thing be possible with the Oculus? Or is it always going to be the same story?

Regarding the TV in your bedroom: If the PS3 in your living room is close to the TV in your bedroom, you could get away with a long run of HDMI... especially if you're just passing the cable through a wall. From what I've read, the general consensus regarding HDMI cable length is about 50ft max.

Here's a highly reviewed 50ft HDMI cable that's rated for in-wall installation.

If it's a really long distance requiring that you run the cable up a wall, over a ceiling, and down another wall, you'll want to run Cat5e or Cat6. If you decide to run Cat5e or Cat6, make sure you run two lengths of cable. You'll need both for the extender adapters. It seems the reviews on these adapters varies a lot, so look for a product with a decent amount of positive reviews. Most products appear to allow for a maximum cable length of 150ft to 200ft.

Question for you... if your PS3 is connected to the TV in your living room, how are you planning to connect it to the TV in your bedroom? Unplug and re-plug two separate HDMI cables? HDMI splitter?

Couldn't find anything about active but cables said category 2 1080p with deep color support. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004GW25WY?pc_redir=1408767100&robot_redir=1

Theater room can be a vr space as well, just buy a 50ft hdmi cable!

If all you want to do is salvage the monitor, you can try this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SUO1GM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this one at work for a 1080 monitor at 60hz. You can possibly get a
HDMI to DVI-D for cheap and then hopefully free you up to use a DP monitor in the future.

that is not an active adapter, that is a passive one, which is passing analog signals thru, which is why its not working. this is an active converter. Unless it says its an active converter in the name, its a passive converter.

So, this?

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DP2DVIS-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter/dp/B004SUO1GM

I believe you need an Active DisplayPort adapter. They're required if you want to use a combo of any 3+ dvi/HDMI combos.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DP2DVIS-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter/dp/B004SUO1GM

is this what you meant?
also oops it’s a different one but it’s still only 30

Wow, I would have never figured this out on my own. Thank you.

Would you recommend something like this: https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-DVI-Adapter-1920x1200-Converter/dp/B004SUO1GM

Or this: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Eyefinity-Technology/dp/B00EDT01TO

I just got an active Display port to DVI adapter for my monitor because My graphics card only has Display Port and HDMI and my Monitor has VGA HDMI and DVI. My old PC had a graphics card that had DVI so I could get 144hz on my monitor no problem but HDMI doesn't allow it. I plug the Display port to DVI into my computer and monitor and try upping the refresh rate, I'm able to do it but something pops up on my monitor saying "incorrect cable please use the dvi dual-link that came with your monitor" I have the Acer GN246HL monitor and GTX 1660Ti graphics card

​

https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-DVI-Adapter-1920x1200/dp/B004SUO1GM?th=1

This is the adapter i have so i guess it would be a possibility that its just cheap and faulty. i know i need an active display port adapter. do you have a trustworthy brand to buy? i do not see the plus' you're talking about on the cable. there is the D looking sign that is in the picture you linked but no plus' to be found. thank you for the help so far

I guess you could call this a success story, not with that GPU though. I got 4 monitors running from a GTX660 and a GT640 last year, and have been running it ever since without issues. I helped another redditor get a similar setup running 6-8 months ago, and just the other day he sent me a followup message saying that he upgraded to Maverick, and now has all 4 of his monitors running from a single GTX670 with no special settings (before Maverick he had been running the GTX670 with a GT610, I believe, but now he doesn't need the 610). I think I'm going to try upgrading to Maverick this weekend if I have some spare time, to see if I can get all 4 running from the GTX660.

EDIT: Update for anyone who cares. I upgraded to 10.9.2 tonight, and I now have all four of my monitors running from my GTX660. Two via DVI, one via HDMI-to-DVI adapter, one via Displayport-to-DVI adapter (side note: not sure if it matters or not, but it's an active Displayport adapter.)

would this work with it? https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004SUO1GM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1

All my stuff is here and plugged up, this kinda cheapo adapter is working fine currently. No real DRM issues seems like, no random turning off or green or anything when streaming. Thanks for your help again! Just thought I'd leave a note for anyone who may be having the same issue and find this.

The exact one I sprung for (purely based off the reviews that many people achieved 144hz through using this)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SUO1GM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yah, if you use display ports you need an active converter if you are going to dvi. I purchased this one and it has been working with no problems, they seem to average about $30. I would assume mini-display port is the same.

I just finished my first build. I have a Visiontek Radeon 5750. Dual dvi ports, video port, and hdmi port. I got it here http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5566524&CatId=3669
The thing is you need an ACTIVE adapter for the video card slot, I got that here http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SUO1GM/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details
Now I'm running 3 LG 23" (Scored them on sale, they were last years model) with the same i5 processor as you. So far I have been running Skyrim, Crysis, and Half life 2 (Not the most demanding games) all on Max. Hope this helps!
http://i.imgur.com/1zmjZ.jpg
(Sorry for the crappy cell phone picture)

Just to be sure. When/if I do get a new PC with a DVI port, should this cable work?

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DVI-D-Ferrites/dp/B007NJ0S1W/ref=sr_1_3?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1483484849&sr=1-3&keywords=dvi-d+dual+link+cable

Thanks

There's your problem right there. You need a DVI-D Dual-link cable for 144hz to work. Luckily they are super cheap:

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DVI-D-Ferrites/dp/B007NJ0S1W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464914893&sr=8-1&keywords=dvi+d+dual+link

More info on other possible cords you can use can be found here (TL;DR you need a Dual-Link DVI-D, a DisplayPort, or a HDMI 1.3 or higher cable):

http://www.144hzmonitors.com/knowledge-base/144hz-1080p-which-cable-do-i-need/

Hope this helps.

you will ned a dvi-dual link cable like this http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DVI-D-Ferrites/dp/B007NJ0S1W?ie=UTF8&keywords=dvi%20dual%20link%20cable&psc=1&qid=1464466840&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1-spons

This is the only cable type that you can use.

This monitor has a DVI-D connector on the back just like your graphics card. Just by a DVI-D Dual Link Cable and you'll be good to go.

You need a dual dvi cable then. You can get them for under $10 on Amazon, such as here: https://smile.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DVI-D-Ferrites/dp/B007NJ0S1W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498953976&sr=8-3&keywords=dual+dvi+cable

Send a request for replacement to BenQ, or order a new D-Link cable for ~$10:

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DVI-D-Ferrites/dp/B007NJ0S1W

cool.

so would this work? http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DVI-D-Ferrites/dp/B007NJ0S1W/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1421020371&sr=8-20&keywords=dvi+cable

Whether you have a GTX 780 or GTX 750 Ti, either way that card is going to struggle to run some modern games (Overwatch for example) at a solid 144fps, even on low settings. You want at least a constant 144 frames per second if you're running a 144hz monitor.

Luckily, your monitor also supports lower refresh rates (such as 120hz, etc). I would see what kind of frames you get and probably end up lowering the refresh rate to match what kind of frames you're getting. When you get a better graphics card or computer, you can turn the refresh rate up.

As far as hooking it up, the only port you want to use on your current graphics card is the DVI (white one). Your monitor will do 144hz with a proper DVI-DL (DVI Dual Link) cable. That's likely the only way you'll get 144hz out of it.

Buy something like this cable - https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Ferrites-Dual-Link/dp/B007NJ0S1W/

You might have DVI cable already around the house, but it probably won't be Dual-Link. Also, worry more about matching the amount of frames you get in games with the refresh rate, rather than just worrying about having to get 144hz.

Anyway, the bigger issue is you bought a fairly nice monitor, but your graphics card (and maybe PC, I'm not sure what CPU you have) will barely support it.

Also, don't screw around with buying an adapter. If you're going to stick with what you have, run the Dual Link DVI.

This one.
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DVI-D-Ferrites/dp/B007NJ0S1W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1452573183&sr=8-3&keywords=dual+link+dvi+d

Have you tried using a different cable or changing the dvi port? I had issues at first but I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007NJ0S1W?pc_redir=1397146182&robot_redir=1 And now I can run 120 without lines.. although. I usually stick with 96hz anyways to keep the pixel clock down, usually just go 120 when I game.

Bought this, coming tomorrow c:

I have a Qnix as well. Im able to hit 120hz 90% of the time, however I do see a little blue line artifact from time to time. Totally worth it though for the 120 hz. Every monitor is different though, your results may vary. I hope to Gaben you didnt buy the multi input version.

Also, the stock DVI cable may not be able to to output 120hz because it is of crap quality.

Here is the cable that I have and that others would recommend to allow you to get the most out of your monitor

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007NJ0S1W?cache=bb7e3aab995162e1c4a4516027226c6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1409070454&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007NJ0S1W

I got this one. 6 ft.

I thought that was the issue--so I switched to dual link DVI which is supposed to be able to support 1440, from single link. It came in the mail today and I thought for sure it would fix this issue but there was no difference.
The monitor does not have an HDMI port. I just ordered this for more bandwith so hopefully....

Could you borrow a slimport cable, maybe? I think that would give you video. http://www.amazon.com/SlimPort%C2%AE-SP1002-Connect-connector-Supports/dp/B009UZBLSG

Amazon.ca has had it all along, for cheaper than when the US one went on that giant price hike, available here.

The only legit Slimport I know of is this one. It's almost 3 times that of a MHL (since they don't work on our N4's) but there aren't too many manufacturers that make the Slimport. Trust me, i've looked around. Plus, it looks like Amazon restocked this model. It was sold out for awhile and people that had one, marked up the price to almost three to six times of the original.

http://www.amazon.com/SlimPort%C2%AE-SP1002-Connect-connector--Supports/dp/B009UZBLSG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370465301&sr=8-1&keywords=Slimport

Try a slim port adapter

http://www.amazon.com/SlimPort®-SP1002-Connect-connector-Supports/dp/B009UZBLSG

I actually think the Nexus 4 uses SlimPort instead of MHL. So something like this.

Maybe try a [slimport] (http://www.amazon.com/SlimPort%C2%AE-SP1002-Connect-connector-Supports/dp/B009UZBLSG) adapter? It should mirror the screen to anything with an HDMI input. As long as your digitizer works you should be able to interact with it, but I think you lose USB when it's plugged in.

This is what I found on Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/SlimPort%C2%AE-SP1002-Connect-connector-Supports/dp/B009UZBLSG/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Yes and yes, however there's another usb port on the adapter that you can plug your charger into so the device can charge while playing.

My experience with my Nexus 4 is that it pretty much maintains it's current power level while I watch an HD movie (i think it actually goes up a very small amount).

Here's the link:
http://www.amazon.com/SlimPort%C2%AE-SP1002-Connect-connector--Supports/dp/B009UZBLSG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374259586&sr=8-1&keywords=slimport+adapter

A few suggestions...

You can try installing an app called AirDroid through the Google Play Store online and accessing photos that way. Or you could try a slimport connector with a usb otg cable which allows you to hook into an HDTV and control your phone screen with a mouse. Good luck!

http://www.amazon.com/SlimPort%C2%AE-SP1002-Connect-connector--Supports/dp/B009UZBLSG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381328205&sr=8-1&keywords=slimport

Not sure why it's so expensive now, but I got one from Amazon for the same exact thing during the launch of the Nexus 4 for $20

It's also used by the Nexus 4 and Nexus 7 2013, some people prefer it over MHL because it can display 4k and uses internal power of the device vs needing a remote powersource

Amazon.ca seems to have them for $40 CDN.

You need a slim port HDMI adapter, this one has been verified to work with the n4, but I am sure there are others.
http://www.amazon.com/SlimPort%C2%AE-SP1002-Connect-connector-Supports/dp/B009UZBLSG?tag=notebookscom-20

Don't know if your local electronic store sells them but lots on Amazon or EBay.

Edit: obviously they are marking these up just a bit... I had a look at the price.. Yikes! Try eBay maybe!

The only one on the market is really the Analogix one. It goes in and out of stock on Amazon with varying prices. I got mine for USD $30.

I used this USB3 and this HDMI 2m extension cable, they work great on my Visor.

Rearrange the space as already suggested.


I used these and they worked perfectly

UGREEN 10373 USB Extension Lead... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00P0ES0YE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

UGREEN 10142 2 m HDMI HDMI Black... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00A30FLE2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


They do longer ones I only needed 2m for my setup

I am using This and This and they work fine.

I built a ceiling setup with these: Keychains, HDMI extension, USB extension. The cable can still twist from the rotation, so I use Cable Guardian to prevent it.

For 2 meters or less almost any decent cable will work, bigger than that you need active cables and hdmi repeater.

These are the ones I use and they work perfectly (6ft, 2m)

https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B00P0ES0YE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i use These for the sensors and this usb and this Hdmi for the headset.. they work well for me.

I use this 6ft HDMI and 6ft USB. They work great.

​

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00P0ES0YE/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This one:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've got it hooked up and around at the back now so it avoids the GPU exhaust. I've had no probs at all since then!

I'm using these and they work great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXZQSCN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got the Ugreen hdmi extension and it's working well so far. I also use their USB extension.

I used these cables from Amazon:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They're both 6 feet. Works fine with my Odyssey

For USB I use Amazon Basics 3m Passive cable. For HDMI I use this. There are more cables on the wiki from this subreddit

I use this, works fine.

Hmm just buy this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7S2FRE

It's what I use and have no issues with

For anyone lurking this is the HDMI cable I use as well https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A30FLE2

FINAL ANSWER:

As long as the Displayport to DVI-D Adapter is in fact a Dual Link DVI and the cable as well (easy to tell cus it has all the pins, with no empty row in the center) it will work fine at 144hz.

Active Displayport to DVI-D HERE

Dual Link DVI-D Cable HERE

Or, if I'm not mistaken, OP can use this instead. It should work, but is much less expensive. Here are Amazon and Newegg links and paging OP, /u/AwaisAlii.

you might want to consider using the display port instead. https://www.amazon.com/VisionTek-DisplayPort-DVI-D-Active-Adapter/dp/B00DYRQXMK/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1511659583&sr=8-14&keywords=dvi+dual+link

~~https://www.amazon.com/VisionTek-DisplayPort-DVI-D-Active-Adapter/dp/B00DYRQXMK/
~~
this is the cheapest adapter I found on amazon that supports dual link dvi d

and it still $30

$30 can be spent on a proper 144hz monitor which also has displayport.

THIS ADPATER DOESNT EVEN SUPPORT 1080p 144hz. i just checked ratings

$5 DP to DVI adapters dont support Dual Link DVI. only Single link or similar.

edit:
looking at the other adapters..

$66
https://www.amazon.com/Accell-DisplayPort-DVI-D-Dual-Link-Adapter/dp/B002ISVI3U/

$110
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY/

https://www.amazon.ca/VisionTek-DisplayPort-DVI-D-Active-Adapter/dp/B00DYRQXMK/ref=asc_df_B00DYRQXMK/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292981412351&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7496085971533809521&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000588&hvtargid=pla-459786185035&psc=1 is this ok? a customer confirmed it worked 120Hz

Will this allow me to run 144hz 1080p on my ACER GN246HL? It doesn't have display port, onyl dvi and I just bought a rtx 2060

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00DYRQXMK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xORgDb7FYF2CM

Hmmm... I'm thinking I could try this MiniDP to DP (female) adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNF0KF0/ with the VisionTek adapter you mentioned because the reviews are saying that it can work at 120hz https://www.amazon.com/VisionTek-DisplayPort-DVI-D-Active-Adapter/dp/B00DYRQXMK/

You need a DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI active adapter. Use this:

https://www.amazon.com/VisionTek-DisplayPort-DVI-D-Active-Adapter/dp/B00DYRQXMK/

Something like this would work, but it's pretty expensive: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499987705&sr=8-3&keywords=DisplayPort+dual+link+dvi

Supposedly this one is also a dual link adapter for a lot less money, so it might be worth a shot: https://www.amazon.com/VisionTek-DisplayPort-DVI-D-Active-Adapter/dp/B00DYRQXMK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499988035&sr=8-1&keywords=DisplayPort+dual+link+dvi

Sorry it didn't work. https://www.amazon.ca/VisionTek-DisplayPort-DVI-D-Active-Adapter/dp/B00DYRQXMK

If I were you I'd try with a $30 active adapter like this one. It should work with any recent video card like a 9 or 10 nvidia series.
If for some reason it doesn't, then you'll have to get a $100 adapter that comes with a USB plug for extra power.

If you call $30 super expensive then I guess so

Edit: If your monitor supports 340MHz over single link DVI (instead of the usual 165MHz) then you can go even cheaper. But that depends on your monitor.

This adapter should work.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DYRQXMK/

Actually it seems like lost people's solution is to go to display port anyways so you can probably just go with that. Seems that you would probably need the expensive adapters to get the full refresh rate although the one you linked seems to work for some. Here the reviews that mention refresh rate. The first guy has a very thorough review although I didn't read it fully through.

I went with This one, mainly because it wasn't $70+ but still seems to have all the things I need, with support up to 2560x1440.

I have tried a couple. I have a few HDMI cables and one displayport to HDMI. This is the HDMI cable I'm currently using: https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Cable-6ft-Connectors-PlayStation/dp/B00NQ9OQU2

My understanding is that there are better 4K HDMI cables out there that improve the set up. I could be totally wrong, but that’s how it was explained to me when I got mine.

Here’s the one that I got

Any way, could be totally wrong but might be worth looking into!

I was giving it a few days to see if the problem returned, but getting a new HDMI cable fixed my problem. The cable I was using before was the same one I'm using for my PS4 and that has no issues, but I guess it's just one of those things.

In case anyone is ever Googling this problem in the future (like I was), the cable that helped me is this one.

Yeah I have this going from the Shield to the receiver.

I have this one going from the receiver to the TV.

I've had nothing but trouble with the Amazon Basic HDMI cables.

It seems after a few months, they always start giving me the purple screen Unauthorized Content message. I started replacing the failed ones with this.

I actually replaced one today. Got the purple screen of death and I grabbed a replacement cable and it came up perfectly, I didn't even pause the movie I was watching.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8SX4Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought 5 of these when the Pro arrived for me. Only 3 of them worked, where as 2 others produced the black screen blink you may have seen others complain about.

I've seen a few say these work too https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uh4WBb612K2SD

But I always say, buy a few if you can, test, and return the ones that aren't up to par. Unfortunately, while they say they can do what they should, they are mass produced and not every cable is tested or even tested to work up to the full 18gbps speed 100% of the time. Thus, test a few and go with the best one.

I have an LG 4k TV and had intermittent black screens. Unplugging the HDMI and plugging it back in was a temp fix. Ended up buying a certified 2.0 cable from Amazon and haven't had the issue since.

Only $12.

HDMI Cable 6ft - HDMI 2.0 (4K @ 60Hz) Ready - 28AWG Braided Cord - High Speed 18Gbps - Gold Plated Connectors - Ethernet, Audio Return - Video 4K 2160p HD 1080p 3D - Xbox PlayStation PS3 PS4 PC TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uh4WBb612K2SD

Thanks for the advice, I'll give that a go tonight after work.

I'm currently using this HDMI cable for the main 4k display

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the side 1440p monitor I'm just using a generic DP cable. Sounds like the HDMI might be an issue?

These are what I am using:

HDMI Cable 6ft - HDMI 2.0 (4K) Ready - 28AWG Braided Cord - High Speed 18Gbps - Gold Plated Connectors - Ethernet, Audio Return - Video 4K 2160p, HD 1080p, 3D - Xbox PlayStation PS3 PS4 PC Apple TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_O7UCzbT1JWXPW

You could be using an HDMI cable that doesnt fully utilize 1.4a

get this

https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Cable-6ft-Connectors-PlayStation/dp/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1482191984&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+2+0+cable

>You need an hdmi 2.0 cable, which is $100, and Atomos is one of the few that makes them


Then why does HDMI.org state you don't need new cables above the existing High Speed Cat 2 cables? Why wouldn't this work?

HDMI 2.0 cables most certainly are real. I own this cable. It's really solid.

I use all 4k monitors now and made sure to keep HDMI cable lengths to exactly the minimum needed. These cables work great https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Cable-6ft-Connectors-PlayStation/dp/B00NQ9OQU2 so make sure you are using ones rated 4k60 HDMI 2.x older cables or splitters can cause issues.

I've used both of these without issues:

https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Cable-6ft-Connectors-PlayStation/dp/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1526569361&sr=8-7&keywords=hdmi+4k+cable&dpID=51DjmSvcvNL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Cable-Resolution-Bandwidth-Compliant/dp/B00SI1JA0Y/ref=sr_1_44?ie=UTF8&qid=1526569408&sr=8-44&keywords=hdmi+4k+cable

There are probably others. Just make certain it's rated for 4k60

Just get an HDMI 2.0 cable. I've found there really isn't much difference between the "high quality"and regular HDMI cables. Many different tests shows there's no real difference.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1524498826&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hdmi+2.0+cable

Something like this will solve your problem

I did not use the supplied cable. I used one that is probably older than 4k.

I picked up this one from Amazon. Will update Monday when the cable gets installed.

Could be, but I'm thinking it's something faulty with your Xbox's Netflix app, as opposed to the app as a whole. Like I said, I use it all the time without issue.

Not that you've asked, but this is the HDMI cord I switched to in case you want to test that. For me, it was test a new $12 HDMI cable, or unmount my 65" TV and send it back.

I bought this one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Why? I don't know. I figured I might buy a 4K TV, and maybe a Scorpio, at some point so I should have a cable ready. When I bought it the price was $11.

I doubt anyone but the most lazy/uninformed people actually buy Monster brand cables when they buy a TV. Best Buy employees probably talk them into it and they don't bother to check for better prices.

The cables i'm using are these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

while they don't specifically say it, i made the assumption they were.

I had actually bought some Blue Jeans Hdmi cables. swapped all of the over, and my picture was noticeably reduced.

Do the ones i posted a link to throw up a red flag?

I use these cables from Amazon, which work great between my Sony AVR, AppleTV 4K and Vizio M55-E0. I have no issues displaying HDR10 and Dolby Vision at 60hz, with Chroma Color set to 4:2:2.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sorry HDCP 2.2 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have These and they work great

Im not really an expert on monitors so I'm probably missing something. But cant you just buy a HDMI to DVI cable? DVI is very similar to HDMI and it does not need any adapters, just a simple cable with a HDMI connector on one side, and a DVI on another. I have an older monitor and have been using it with such cable for years. The monitor is 60hz only though so i dont know if this would work for 144hz, but i cant imagine why it wouldnt. But then again, my knowledge might be lacking lol.

https://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-PCM-2296-06-HDMI-Cable/dp/B0007MWE1E

http://www.amazon.com/Video-Cable-Black-Support-Necessary/dp/B002TUC64W

Alrighty, time for some critical thinking.

Facts we know:

• Capture cards have inputs.
  
• The PS4 outputs in HDMI and SPDIF
  
• You have a capture card
  
• HDCP could be an issue
  
• There are ways around it
  
• There are converters from HDMI to anything(DVI, Component, VGA, etc)
  
• You didn't try to Google this at all before posting here
  
  

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002TUC64W?pc_redir=1397347210&robot_redir=1

And if your setup doesn't support that cable then you'll need an actual converter which is a bit more pricey.

Might do better to just get a new monitor

You'll need a converter then

http://www.amazon.com/Dell-BIZLINK-DisplayPort-Adapter-Powered/dp/B003XYBA72/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1426289491&sr=8-9&keywords=displayport+dvi+dual+link

Yes I'm sure. Also I realize I actually purchased through amazon. Here is the cable I got. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GW25WY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a 15m hdmi cable and it works fine to my Panasonic tv in the lounge from a pc running a 1080.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B004GW25WY/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DP2DVIS-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter/dp/B004SUO1GM

you will need a active adapter to convert DisplayPort, Passive DOES NOT Work...

• https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DP2DVIS-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter/dp/B004SUO1GM/
  
• https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815129011
  
  should work, club3d, sapphire, powercolor, visiontek all make active ones

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007NJ0S1W/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think this is what I need for my dvi-d monitor ?

That's completely not true, the cable you linked will only do 24hz via 4k - so it'll be fine for media, but for gaming you want the highest refresh rate possible. Yes OP, you will need HDMI 2.0.

That said, it's also important to note what you will be gaming on, as the PS4 and Xbox One will only go up to 60FPS, even with their new upgraded models like the PS4 Pro and Xbox Scorpio (which if you're playing at 4k, actually go down to 30fps), so you won't be getting anything close to 120Hz unless you are gaming on PC, and even then, 4k@120 Hz is a lot of pixels to push, we're talking dual GPUs at this point. And if you did want to do that, it may not even be ideal because of the input lag caused by a TV.

TL;DR: get hdmi 2.0, they're cheap as well. But it probably won't matter for gaming as input lag is going to be a more influential factor.

It's the hdmi cable. I promise you.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQ9OQU2

Get this.

Not in any way. Here is an hdmi cable from amazon. That means you believe that plastic dock is worth ~$34 by itself.

Easily solved with $12!

Or $15 for the AmazonBasics one.

Edit: Nevermind; didn't even notice the max supported resolution for these is lower than 1440p. RIP.

Quick display port to DVI Google search rendered this.

AmazonBasics DisplayPort to DVI Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B014RWWURC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EOIxCb9C91VS0

what about a DisplayPort to DVI-D cable like this

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-DVI-Cable-Feet/dp/B014RWWURC/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506385323&sr=1-3&keywords=displayport+to+dvi

You are all a bunch of idiots.

If it were a surface, you all would be hypocrites and OP would be dumb for not buying the correct adapter. (also no HDMI port).

https://www.amazon.com/CHOETECH-Thunderbolt-Compatible-ChromeBook-MateBook/dp/B01LYS3Q5A/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484612751&sr=1-3&keywords=USB-C+to+HDMI

There... USB-C on the MBP already has HDMI out.

video: http://www.amazon.com/VGA-HDMI-Cable-6-feet/dp/B002TUC64W

.97 cents hdmi to vga
------------
audio: i use my ps2's multi-out audio cables (red and white) connected to a receiver as an aux input.

I have heard people use a SlimPort. Amazon link here. As mentioned below, 2012 model doesn't support video out. Didn't realize this at the time as I have never attempted it on my 2012 N7.

Any Bluetooth wireless keyboard should work. You usually just need to sync it with the N7.