(Part 2) Best audio & video connectors & adapters according to redditors
We found 5,249 Reddit comments discussing the best audio & video connectors & adapters. We ranked the 1,535 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Not sure where you are located but is something like this really that much more than Aliexpress?
https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Stereo-Coupler-Female-30ST-STFF/dp/B000I963FE/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3JK0LTUCTXVLJ&keywords=3.5mm+coupler&qid=1555937336&s=gateway&sprefix=3.5mm+co%2Caps%2C171&sr=8-2
Have touch controllers for dev, very hard to play QuiVr and turn around without very specific camera placement. Luckily touch controllers come with another camera and USB extenders are dirt cheap.
Mac Mini (2018 model), named NOSTROMO
Mac Mini (2010 model), named SPUNKMEYER
MacBook Pro Retina 15” (2015 model), named SULACO
Mac Mini (2012 model), named FERRO
Mac Mini (2012 model), named AURIGA
Both the 2012 Minis and the 2010 Mini are completely headless. Unfortunately, this means that accessing them via remote desktop gives you a measly 800x600 resolution. I use this handy little gadget on both of them to replicate a 1920x1080 display being connected. So, when I connect via Screen Sharing I get a nice big display.
MacBook Pro (2018 model), named APLC02XV5W1JGH5
iPad Pro 10.5", named APONE
iPhone X, named RIPLEY
LG Blu-Ray reader/writer in connected to NOSTROMO via USB 3.0, used for ripping Blu-Rays and DVDs
Sabrent USB 3.0 Dual-Bay Hard Drive Dock, also connected to NOSTROMO via USB 3.0
The microphone is a Yeti Blue with a Nady Pop Filter, coupled with a Logitech HD C310, used for Google Hangouts and FaceTime calls with the fam, and the occasional podcast. It is mounted on a RODE PSA1 Swivel Mount Studio Microphone Boom Arm and a RADIUS II Microphone Shock Mount.
The mousepad is an XTracPads Ripper XXL mousepad
The chair is a Raynor Ergohuman ME7ERG desk chair
I use Dropbox to expertly keep my content in sync. Due to the amount of content I keep in there, it is well worth the $100 per year for a Dropbox Pro subscription.
Additionally throughout the house, I have...
3 Eeros for my Mesh Wireless Network WiFi System
2 Apple TVs (4K), named ASH and CALL
1 Apple TV (4th Generation), named BISHOP
1 Apple HomePod, named DIETRICH
1 Nest Hello Video Doorbell, named HELLO
1 Nest Learning Thermostat, named NEST (yeah, original af, I know)
2 WyzeCam Pans, named WYZE-Kitchen and WYZE-LivingRoom
4 WeMo Smart Plugs, named WEMO-Foyer, WEMO-SpareBedroom, WEMO-MasterBedroom, and WEMO-LivingRoom
1 Amazon Echo Plus, named ECHO-LivingRoom
2 Amazon Echoes (First-Generation), named ECHO-MasterBedroom and ECHO-Kitchen
2 Amazon Echo Dots, named DOT-Office, and DOT-SpareBedroom
4 Google Home Minis
1 Brother HL-L2395DW Wireless Laser Printer, named LV426
1 PlayStation 3 Slim 120 GB, named HICKS
I have a total of 31 IP reservations according to my Eero app. This makes it a lot easier to manage my network, set up port forwarding, etc.
Just a recommendation:
Deadbolt Banana Plugs, 12-pair, By Sewell Direct https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006U3O566/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_ibvHwb6BEJBEG
"A wifi dongle plugged into this monitor here." Any more info on the specifics of the hardware?
Edit: Looks like Miracast or WiDi should work. And the one he is using in the video is this Microsoft Wireless Display Adapter.
This is what you need:
https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extender-Single-Certified/dp/B00G5RBX2Q/<== Only rated to send 200'https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Extender-Ethernet-including/dp/B00OZV04BK/ <== Rated to send 300'
Haha. Yeah, that signal is definitely dying somewhere closer to the computer. You need to install something like an HDMI-Network extender pair of devices. It basically turns the HDMI signal into an ethernet digital signal.... transmits it.... then converts it back to HDMI on the other end. Honestly, it's magical and I didn't know I'd never need one until.... I needed one. Caveat, you need to power each of the devices for it to work.
I'm the same background as you (IT with interest in home theater) and had never heard of it until I read it here in this sub a few months ago. I needed to run a monitor in a public area that was over 100' from a computer yet have the display driven by a dedicated machine.
You have a couple of options to drive dual 4K monitors.
I've used all three on my 9550 and they all produce dual 4K at 60Hz. As others have said, the HDMI is version 1.4, meaning that it can produce 4K but only at 30Hz.
I suggest getting a different 6.3mm to 3.5mm adapter, as the one that comes with the HD599 tends to put a lot of stress on the 3.5mm jack, as you may already have noticed. Something like this adapter from Sennheiser will work great:
https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-Cable-Adapter-Female-6-3mm/dp/B008JGWY2Y
The Grado adapter should work fine as well and is cheaper:
https://www.amazon.com/Grado-Mini-Adaptor/dp/B001DK1ZVO
And there are other adapters like this one for Hosa which are cheaper still:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-MHE-100-5-Right-Angle-Headphone-Adaptor/dp/B000068O6B/
Or just use the shorter cable with a 3.5mm connector that comes with the HD599 if you can. Anyway, that's a great setup to get started on the hobby. Now you can feel free to never visit this sub again to save yourself some (ok, probably a lot of) money.
When you do get the component cables, the red and white plugs need to go into a Y-adapter (like this one) to convert to 3.5mm minijack for the matching input on the OSSC.
Also, why bother? Why not use the native HDMI output from the GCHD? The OSSC seems like an unnecessary step to me, especially considering how little it seems you know about video stuff.
Micro USB to USB OTG Adapter Cable
> Do you have them?
I have them and their big brother, the HD 800.
> Do they induce headaches because of the band?
They are widely considered one of the most comfortable lines of headphones on the market, and I certainly agree. They are made of study plastic and ultra-soft velour. They do not induce headaches or irritate my ears, and I consider myself vulnerable to these sorts of things.
> All I need to do is plug them into the headphone jack on any fitting device
The stock termination is 1/4'' TRS (big headphone jack), which may not fit in your computer or other source player. The HD 558 ships with a 1/4''-to-1/8'' converter, but many people find it bulky. I recommend this Grado adapter cable, Grado being a headphone company we all know and love.
> and it'll output 7.1 warranted it's available?
Don't worry about how many speakers you're supposed to be hearing. If you're a fan of surround sound, I guarantee any (well-mastered) recording will sound phenomenal to you through these cans. Sennheiser headphones are known and praised for this quality.
Use one of these instead of the solid adapter if you need (I have the 595's and still haven't done a detachable cable mod because this thing works so well).
Ill have to test it out, but I would think that this would work. The original sega cable was just a yellow and white RCA plug to a 3.5 mm jack. I would try putting the video signal into the red plug first.
I use a USBOTG adapter + ThinkPenguin dongle + RepWifi for wifi and it works well with all apps I tried, though I might buy a different OTG adapter like this one because my linked one sometimes jiggles out of place.
I also use a ZeroLemon 7000mah battery (and its associated case), which is AFAIK the biggest battery ever made commercially available for the S3, and it works very well -- I usually get a few days out of the phone at least without resorting to a charge. It's kind of hard to find but people sell them on ebay.
The usage notes wiki page is helpful with some other tips for actually using Replicant as a daily driver.
I used two, both successfully, with my Chromebook Pro.
Anker USB-C to HDMI Adapter
Type C Hub ALLFU Aluminum 7-in-1 USB C Adapter
Very cool, thank you for the tips!
This is the grado adaptor you speak of yeah? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DK1ZVO?ie=UTF8&amp;at=&amp;force-full-site=1&amp;ref_=aw_bottom_links
I like the extension to avoid stress on the inputs.
Probably. Are the speakers hooked up to that right now? If your TV has a headphone/line out jack, you could probably use something like this to connect it to the receiver.
Yes, you can connect the phone to the rear of the PMA-500AE amplifier using an RCA to 3.5mm TRS adapter cable like this one.
You connect your phone to either of the CD, Tuner, DVD/AUX connections, and switch the amp to the correct input on the front (You can also use either of the ones marked "PB"). The one labelled "Phono" is incompatible, as it's for turntables.
Those are passive speakers requiring separate amplification, which the Mac doesn't provide.
You could use something like the SMSL SA-50. (I need to make a macro for that sentence.):
https://smile.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/
A cable like this from the Mac to the amp:
https://smile.amazon.com/Hosa-CMR-206-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O3B
Speaker wire from the amp to the speakers:
https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y
I have this setup, i.e. I'm using a monitor with only DVI input and outputting audio through my PC speakers. Here's what I do.
I use an HDMI cable with an HDMI-to-DVI adapter for video.
For audio, well, it's a bit more complicated. I use the Xbox's composite cable for audio, but first, you'll need this adapter. Now that gives us a standard 3.5 mm cable.
If you just want to use standalone speakers (or headphones), buy this adapter and plug your speakers/headphones into it.
If your speakers, like mine, are hooked up to your PC, plug the cable from the RCA adapter (first one I mentioned) into the line in, then have Windows "listen to this device" -- it's in the Sound control panel.
The trickiest part is getting both the HDMI and composite cables plugged into your Xbox, as the composite cable has a stupid ass tab to it that prevents both it and the HDMI cable from being plugged in. I had to resort to ripping the plastic casing off of the composite cable, which is probably your best bet.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Audio coupler/adapter?
Our team uses Victor SP's since we can't afford Talon SRX's, so CAN is out of the picture.
Do you mean "real Y cables" as in something like this?: https://www.amazon.com/PWM-Y-Splitter-Cable-Adapter/dp/B002OFP6QW
Edit: Will we be penalized for keeping our PWM cables soldered together?
You can use a Y spliter
Link
you can get a mini display port to display port adapter
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DP2MDPMF6IN-DisplayPort-Video-Adapter/dp/B003N3DTKY/ref=sr_1_18?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478815899&amp;sr=1-18&amp;keywords=female+mini+display+port+to+display+port+cable
Your problem is that in order to run 3 monitors with an AMD HD6000 series card anything more than 2 must be run off a display port. you can get an active(?) display port adapter to enable the 3rd monitor. This is because the internal hardware supports 2 DVI links, usually 1 is shared with the HDMI, and I assume your other is on an DVI -> VGA converter. I didn't hunt for the best deal on that adapter, look for good reviews from people that are running 3 monitors.
As with all AMD, any 2+ monitors require active adapters. Be it active to vga or DVI, ect....
Venturing a guess here, I'd say your DP->VGA cable is passive. Swap it out for a (preferable) active DP->DVI cable or active DP->VGA, and you'll be able to run four independent displays using each of your connections.
You can conect a controller to any android device as well. you need a Mini USB to USB adapter.
Not to put down your surface. those things are sweet.
It doesn't support USB OTG out of the box, you have to root it and use stickmount (and buy a cable for $1). With that, you can use any USB key as an additional storage to store movies for instance.
But the 8GB limitation could be an issue if your apps (and android system too) need more that 8GB total. Otherwise, you'd be fine with 8GB.
I vote use bananas. They make life so much easier once you have your wires cut and stuff. Try out these guys, spacing doesn't matter.
http://www.amazon.com/Deadbolt-Banana-12-pair-Sewell-Direct/dp/B006U3O566/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420811522&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=sewell
I bring the coils out to banana jacks then use Sewell banana plugs and don't see any issues. I used a thermal camera to watch the plugs after I put them in and they didn't get warm at all, so minimal IR drop across the plugs. I did use a screwdriver to bend the 'legs' out on the plug a little so that it was a very tight fit.
You can go big baller style with SMD magnetic terminals
As far as the interface to the sub itself, mine has terminals with allen keys and I soldered the other end to the tab on the terminals(removing the tab from the terminal first so I didn't melt the plastic cups).
Where exactly are you thinking about using ring connectors?
In a previous install I just used threaded rod through the box with fender washers and ring terminals. Solder is best, a high compression union second best. Banana jacks are ok for not too much power.
A ring terminal is fine if you crimp it good, put some anti oxidant on the unions and wrench down on it.
You can also use quick disconnects like this
My T440p can carry audio over MiniDisplay port. I use this MiniDisplay to HDMI adapter.
It works under Windows 7, 8/8.1, and 10. You may have to set it as the default audio out in the sound control panel.
Alright mate so their controllers will probably be plugged into the speakers via RCA cable (one red, one white), you’ll want an RCA to 3.5mm jack cable to plug in to your phone. Like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00B2HP1MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_b4pXAb4XC0DP4
Might not be correct as I’m still a newbie but that cable has the same connections as the back of my controller and will plug into your phone, so you can literally take the cable out the back of their controller then plug it into that cable from amazon then your phone
Hope that helps!
Get a stereo 3.5mm socket to RCA jack adapter:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/kenable-3-5mm-Stereo-Socket-Adapter-Black/dp/B003OSPTVU
and an rca socket to stereo jack adapter:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-connecting-Smartphones-Tablets-Turntable-Grey/dp/B00B2HP1MW
Then connect together with the rca sockets reversed.
You’ll be able to get the two adapters you need for next to nothing, linked items are just an example.
They do make a converter cable that has two phono plugs so you can plug in left and right and it converts it to a single headphone plug.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Adapter-Tablets-Computer-Speaker/dp/B00B2HP1MW/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=RCA+to+3.5mm+jack&amp;qid=1557844774&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-8
Pretty clean build! :)
Have you considered getting an extension for the PCI-E cable, so you don't have the extra connectors hanging down there?
They're SilverStone Tek sleeved extensions.
MoBo 24pin
GPU 8pin
GPU 6pin
CPU 8pin (Different than the 8 pin for the graphics card)
http://www.amazon.com/Micro-USB-OTG-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00D8YZ2SA
You could buy a USB OTG cable and keep a small mouse or trackball like this in your pocket. If can't think of any other way because of the OPO's screen.
http://www.amazon.com/YUMQUA-Y-01-Portable-Finger-Trackball/dp/B00X3LEJBE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463521272&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=portable+mouse&amp;psc=1
To add to this you can use an HDMI extender. You run CAT 5/6 between 2 boxes then break out to HDMI on the ends. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extender-Single-1080P/dp/B00G5RBX2Q/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521811367&amp;sr=1-10&amp;keywords=hdmi+extender
You can try a USB Video adapter. I use to use this back when I wanted to have 3 monitors but the computer only had 2 monitor output. Ive tried USB to vga but they sell usb to HDMI
I don't think you can get around having to use a dongle of sorts, but any miracast dongle should do the trick. They're usually powered by usb, and since most tv's these days have them then you never have to see any extra wires. Microsoft made one themselves: Amazon
There's a few different ones, like ASUS or Belkin but I think miracast is only for Windows 8/8.1. Maybe there's a workaround for Windows 7. Might be the same with the Microsoft dongle.
All this is wireless of course, and you would just have to output to external display. Hope that puts you on the right track at least!
This is what I do.
Had those cutting in and out issues, just bought a USB extender, and now it's all better. No issues at all.
The odd thing is, the bluetooth adapter seems to have problems when plugged into any system I've tried, PS4/PC(Front/Back/USB2.0/3.0)/monitor usb ports... but when I have it plugged into the extender it has no issues at the same distance. So... shrugs.
Edit: Something like this http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable--Male--Female/dp/B00NH11R3I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450933850&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+extender
@OP, this is the best approach and what worked for me, I have an older USB extension cable (just a 3ft male-to-female USB cable, something like this... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11R3I/ref=sxts_k2p-hero-vn_tr_lp_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8011851592090061987&pd_rd_wg=jCbR6&pf_rd_r=DVEH1AHD133DNTZW9REC&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00NH11R3I&pd_rd_w=JFXcW&pf_rd_i=usb+extension+cable+3ft&pd_rd_r=1270d36a-3c5b-405d-8fb3-2149487b3e33&ie=UTF8&qid=1526999446&sr=2)
My understanding is that the cable wiring is USB2.0 compliant and not USB3.0 and so physically limits the port to a USB2.0 connection effectively forcing the 3.0/2.0/1.1 capable port into 2.0 'backward compatibility mode'. As u/Vindalo0 said, it makes no performance difference if you use a USB2.0 extension cos it will be limited to 2.0 no matter what port you use (unless you can find a USB1.1!). You should pick the length of the extension cable run to allow you to move the adapter to the best location to pick up the BT radio signals from your controllers, line of sight would be ideal but just getting it away from the birds nest of wires behind the PC is a great start.
Yes it works. I'm using this: https://www.amazon.de/Anker-Premium-Datenhub-Ethernet-ChromeBook/dp/B071G83L1J/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=Anker+usb+c+hdmi&amp;qid=1563116902&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-6
But something like this should work too: https://www.amazon.de/Anker-Aluminium-Unterst%C3%BCtzt-Konverter-Chromebook/dp/B01MYUCWOK
Likely something you've already been through - but which USB-C to HDMI adapter are you using? The Microsoft one is one of the better ones, but a little overpriced.
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Surface-USB-C-HDMI-Adapter/dp/B076KRFB8X
The adapter has to be 4K compatible. I bought this one from Anker for about $20 https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Supports-Macbook-Chromebook/dp/B01MYUCWOK
Apple Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) to Thunderbolt 2 Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQ26QIY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YpZXDbS3ANW3X
For HDMI I have one of these and it's great: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MYUCWOK
For USB 3, I already owned a hub/ethernet dongle combo: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00PC0J1VC
To make it work with USB-C I bought a USB A -> USB C converter: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01COOQIKU
All of these work fine and are considerably cheaper than the Apple alternatives. Anker seem to be a good company when it comes to dongles.
So this Anker USB-C -> HDMI adapter advertises 60hz 4k. My new MBP arrives on Friday so I'll get back about the actuality of that, but I'd be interested to hear your experience. Otherwise my main 4k panel has displayport and I got a USB-C -> MDP as well, so should be fine.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MYUCWOK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Works great for me, using at 4k 60hz.
the anker one works perfect
heres my review
Nice!
Not sure if it matters, but this is the dongle that‘s working flawlessly for me:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MYUCWOK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_c6GYzbX398YAN
How can I see what color format (like RGB, YCbCr420, YCbCr422, YCbCr444) for my current resolution/refresh rate settings?
Background: I've got a MacBook Pro (2016) with the Radeon Pro 455 2GB. I've connected it to my Vizio 4K TV via this HDMI dongle. I want to find out the color format at 4K native resolution because I suspect chroma sub-sampling in action.
PS: AMD Radeon Settings is incredibly pointless at showing connection details. I see ads there instead of what refresh rate, x-y resolution, color format etc ... wtf?
I have this one and it works great at 4k60
Anker USB-C to HDMI Adapter, Supports 4K/60Hz, for The New Macbook/Chromebook Pixel and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYUCWOK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_wcx7yb8143E0F
What is the exact make and model of your cable? Most cheap and many not so cheap cables and docking stations will only support UHD at 30 Hz. I have an Anker USB-C to HDMI Adapter that works fine with my 9360: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01MYUCWOK/
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Sorry for the delay, I've tried so many I've lost count. When I check Amazon for Thunderbolt to DisplayPort usually it just says USB C and then Thunderbolt compatible. I posted here forever ago and was told the built in HDMI is 1.4 but if you go through USB C then it would be 2.0. My monitor has DisplayPort but my gaming PC connects to that so the other ports are all HDMI. I have tried DisplayPort adapters before also with no success but sounds like it might be due to HDMI. I just didn't want to have to manually switch the DisplayPort plug any time I change, but maybe that's the issue. Here's all the ones I tried without success on any:
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https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01MYUCWOK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B071VVZC2Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B074QLC62H/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B072M9LVZD/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07G82ZW1D/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Was about to try this one:
https://www.amazon.ca/DisplayPort-CHOETECH-Thunderbolt-Compatible-ChromeBook/dp/B01N11K30W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539183188&sr=8-1&keywords=USB+C+to+DisplayPort+Cable+4K%4060Hz%2C+CHOETECH+USB+3.1+Type+C+to+DP+Cable+%28Thunderbolt+3+Compatible%29+for+2017+iMac%2C+MacBook+Pro%2CDell+XPS+15%2F13%2CChromeBook+Pixel%2CSamsung+Galaxy+S9%2FNote+8%2FS8%284ft%2F1.2m%29
Are these the 2 products that you got?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SQ2CJUS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQ26QIY/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
To simply play files, most laptop or iPod, iPhone or whatever device is going to sound fine. Just buy from quality sources like the iTunes shop and you'll be fine.
If you were running any sort of DJ software, then a USB audio interface might be useful to give you higher level outputs and a dedicated headphone monitor connection. My recommendation if you go down that path is the NI Traktor Audio 2.
http://www.amazon.com/Native-Instruments-Traktor-Audio-Interface/dp/B00FYQFPFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404302468&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Traktor+audio+2
To help with your terminology, you'll most likely be plugging into a house mixer or amplifier input, and thus you'll most likely want a 3.5mm TRS to Dual RCA Cable, like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMR210-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000068O3B/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404302305&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=3.5mm+to+dual+RCA
...but do check what the inputs you'll be connecting to to confirm exactly what cable you'll need.
You can use this kind of cable to connect anything with a 3.5mm output to it.
For the PS3 , you can use an RCA to 3.5mm converter
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Console-Adapter-Convert-Single-Pc/dp/B0006U3ACY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1322799149&amp;sr=8-5
As for your TV box / DVR or whatever you can use the same thing, I dunno if you want to get 2 of them or just swap back and forth or what but I have it for my PS3 and it works pretty good
So let me get this straight it's stereo mini out of your laptop into the converter with L+R RCA out to 3 speakers with mono minis split L+R+C ?
Sort of like this? http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Console-Adapter-Convert-Single-Pc/dp/B0006U3ACY
Here's what I would do:
Something like this
Something like this
Something like this
edit: I still don't know if this would give you true 5.1 surround. ProLogic maybe. Maybe there is a switcher that has the same output as a computer sound card (3 headphone cord audio output) so you can go directly into the speakers.
I had the same problem about a year ago. After doing some research, I found this. Works like a charm.
It'll work. But you may need an amp of some kind. I'd buy that stuff first, because an amp is at least $20. An E5 would do the job most likely.
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Console-Adapter-Convert-Single-Pc/dp/B0006U3ACY
Also, use that instead. It'll save you from using that female/female 3.5mm adapter. I use this for my xbox 360.
Ever tried google?
Looks like it’s discontinued... [adapter](Logitech 5.1 Game Console Adapter Convert Rca Plugs To A Single 1/8 (Discontinued by Manufacturer) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006U3ACY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pXpcBbFPG9DH7)
If your tv has stereo RCA you’ll need a standard cable. If your tv only has a line out, you’ll need a 3.5mm stereo to RCA cable. Also easy to find on google.
true even if you dont have it its pretty much just an rca to 3.5 mm female adapter http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&amp;cp_id=10218&amp;cs_id=1021803&amp;p_id=663&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2 except you need a female end on the 3.5 mm side, http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Coupler-Female/dp/B000I963FE , all can be found at your local radio shack for prob non reasonable amounts of money :P
Now that you mention it, I guess something like this coupled with something like this would also work. It may not work as well though because there are not dedicated channels, so you could get supersaturation of frequencies and maybe distortion etc...
It would be something like this
Like I said though, the sound quality may be shit.
I'm currently using the SteelSeries Flux with this audio cable and built in boom mic. The Flux has a detachable cable, so you can use pretty much any 3.5mm cable to connect it to your PC. I'm not a fan of circumaural headphones, but they are very comfortable and the mic is crisp and clear.
You could also use the HD660's mentioned by /u/The-Real-Darklander with that audio cable and join them with a simple female 3.5mm to female 3.5mm connector. The boom mic is adjustable, so you can position it closer to your mouth if need be.
Do you have headphones with a volume adjusting knob?
If you get one of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I963FE/ref=oh_o04_s00_i01_details
... you can plug your rca to male jack into one end and headphones in the other end. The headphones will need the volume adjuster because that's the only way to change the volume. And it will be extremely loud by default.
If you are going from 1/4" male to 3.5mm male, we normally recommend the Sennheiser or Grado style adapter, that have a small amount of cable on them. These have the female plug for the 1/4" on one end, and the male 3.5mm on the other.
I personally use the much less expensive Hosa adapter, of the same style.
Ditto. They're cheap enough and the highest quality you can get without overspending.
Link: https://www.amazon.com/Grado-Mini-Adaptor/dp/B001DK1ZVO
Edit- added link to amazon
pretty sure that's the one I bought! http://www.amazon.com/Grado-Mini-Adaptor-Cable-Inch/dp/B001DK1ZVO/
You can use molex adapters (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812201009), but they run the fans at full speed. You can also get y splitters, but depending on the motherboard (it may not have enough power to run two or more fans off of the same header) you can usually run 2 off of one system fan header. http://www.amazon.com/PWM-Y-Splitter-Cable-Adapter/dp/B002OFP6QW
Don't sweat it. People on /r/buildapc and /r/cablemanagement are like cable management pros. My first builds were god awful for cable management.
I recommend velcro straps.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CI5YW4U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Zip Ties
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OK7P3G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Fan Y Splitter
http://www.amazon.com/PWM-Y-Splitter-Cable-Adapter/dp/B002OFP6QW/ref=pd_sim_e_1?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0CX8X7PFV070T22D69YW
I just did a quick search on amazon for the fan y spliter. I'm sure if you do a bit of research you can find a better deal.
You'll want a 4-pin pwm splitter or better yet a sata-powered fan hub (for more than 2 fans), if you use a splitter, just make sure the fans don't add up to more amps than a that single mb fan header can put out (usually 1-2 amps max (depending on the mb), but check with the manual).
Any of them will work really, I have this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OFP6QW/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_TPd-wbTGQV6PV
Oh, you have those types of fan connectors. You need something like a Y splitter cable to get those to plug into the mobo.
Edit: And I completely missed the other question. That larger plug is a molex, you're probably going to need to find a splitter for it to a 4-pin (just like that y-splitter I showed you) and plug it into a fan 4-pin.
Edit Edit: Actually, it does look like there are some molex-to-psu connectors, but I'd think those were for running storage devices. It seems like overkill to me to plug a fan controller into the PSU; but I've honestly never had a fan controller to know.
Edit Edit Edit: lol; so, I found this molex-to-Y cable; so maybe that's how you were suppose to connect them. It just makes no sense since you didn't indicate that there was any power leading into the fan controller. The fan controller needs power, naturally, and then the fans should lead out from that. Is there another cable you're maybe missing?
I may be wrong, but it appears that you have both your GPUs daisy-chained through the same cables. You will want to remedy that by having each plug in each GPU plugged with its own power cable. So you will need 4 power cables going to your GPUs.
Also it looks like one of your CPU cooler fans is plugged into your motherboard via fan header. Instead, you may want to get this so you can have both fans controlled by CPU fan header.
Other than that, solid build.
That's a 2010 model. You'll just need a DisplayPort to Mini DisplayPort adapter http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DP2MDPMF6IN-DisplayPort-Video-Adapter/dp/B003N3DTKY/ref=sr_1_16?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463980977&amp;sr=1-16&amp;keywords=mini+displayport+to+displayport
I've just seen a video where this one works with Pro 13, I think I'm getting it: https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Video-Cable-Adapter-Black/dp/B003N3DTKY
So it should be a safe bet if you have DisplayPort on your GPU, but not sure if Pro 16 will be any different...
The only way to know for sure is to try it, but I don't give you good odds. You'd need to go from HDMI to MiniDisplayport, the only way I'm finding is an HDMI Male to Displayport Female and a Displayport Male to MiniDisplayport Female. If you have a local computer store that has those cables (or another combination) in stock you might buy local that way you can return them if it doesn't work.
I went trough the the same troubles.
You need two things: a hackintosh with and displayport output.
And an adapter like this
NINJAEDIT: fuck, this may only work if you buy an Apple Cinema Display with the mini displayport (so the older models)
Yes, that's what I got. I bought this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003N3DTKY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
But it's an add-on item, so you can only order it together with other items that total $25 or more. I'm sure any other adapter would work though.
alright i have an update:
This adapter solved my issue -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003N3DTKY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> active displayport adapter (100$)
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812340009http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-005B-DisplayPort-Single-Link-Certified/dp/B004071ZX0 Shouldn't this work?Create an Eyefinity group and you can have one big-ass desktop. Or, assuming you have an active display port adapter, you should be able to extend the desktop with three monitors. I just got a triple monitor setup going this week and it's just the regular extend desktop configuration that's needed.
I would first verify that you do have in fact an active display port adapter. A passive adapter will not work for three monitor setups.
This is what I used.
I doubt if there will any 5700XT variant that comes with DVI. I suppose the only pathway would be to use and active DP to DVI adapter - something like this for example - https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Accell-B087B-005B-UltraAV-Display-Certified-Black/dp/B004071ZX0/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1Y6KH8DPX0YZ1&keywords=active+dp+to+dvi+cable&qid=1567179295&refinements=p_72%3A419153031&rnid=1642204031&s=computers&sprefix=dp+to+dvi+cable+active%2Caps%2C148&sr=1-2
Make sure that whatever adapter/cable you get is active, that should make it possible for you to get your full refresh rate of 144Hz.
Hope that helps and all the best :)
Peace <3
I have a triple monitor set up as cheaply as it can be done.
For the graphics card it must have eyefinity (im 90% about this, there may be exceptions but I don't know them). I don't think it works with nvidia quite yet so go ati.
I have a xfx 5830 that you can get for $130. My monitors out are an hdmi to one monitor, dvi to the second monitor, and to the oldest monitor I have an active display port to vga.
This last step is important and I will explain why it has to be active and to vga to stay cheap;
The reason it has to be active is because you already have 2 digital signals in the form of HDMI and DVI, so it has to convert it.
The reason it has to be VGA is because it uses less power and is easier to do so it doesn't need to be powered and MOST importantly, this adapter costs $25 for active displayport->vga compared to ~$100 for active to DVI.
My monitors are not all at the same resolution so I can't do the thing where it recognizes it as 1 huge screen. It is 3 seperate screens that I can control the positions of in ATI catalyst control center (the software side of the drivers... or something that comes with the GPU).
I am not sure about using both the DVI's and then the adapter that I link/ed but I don't see why not as the GPU sees the 3 ports as pick any two. Doesn't really matter as im sure at least 1 of the 1080 monitors has an hdmi cord.
Any other questions feel free to ask, and here is the link to the adapter that you need its not porn its just the link with a false name
side note; since doing my last batch of research, it seems there may be a chance of an active displayport to dvi... due to this product. May be irrelevant as i assume that the old monitor doesn't have dvi, but for anybody else.
it says "Connect a Single-Mode DisplayPort Enabled Computer to a DVI-D Monitor, TV or Projector" so it kinda sounds like it won't work with multiple monitors by the single mode statement... but not sure
An active adapter is so expensive any more. Here is one that is recommended by ATI and is only $30.
This might be what you're looking for.
You can even get a Male-Micro to Female-Normal and hub shit up.
I did this yesterday during class, didn't take a picture then though.
This is literally what I did last year, so hopefully I have some helpful advice that will help you make the most out of it!!
First off, a phone with micro SD and HDD is super handy, you can file transfer when on the train travelling or whatever and don't need to worry about finding an Internet café or anything. I had an S5, super easy to switch sd cards and supports a HDD no problem. You can get the wire you need from amazon for like £2 so its not expensive! Like the dude above said, it takes a while but if you're on the train or whatever it doesn't really affect you much!
One thing you see way too much of on this sub is 'Lost GoPro' and as much as it sucks losing your baby, it sucks a whole lot more losing your pics/videos with it too, so I really cannot stress how good it is to backup as much as possible.
Secondly, I purchased one of these bad boys:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/TeckNet-PowerZen-15000mAh-Technology-Lightning/dp/B00FAU7ZB2
You can charge anything with a USB cable and it lasts a hella long time. Also when its flat you can just leave it charging for the day at the hostel and you're good to go again, it does something like 8 full phone charges so it really is ideal. Again, if travelling on the train (especially overnight trains as I found) you can just chuck your mobile on or battery packs and be sorted in the morning.
Don't know if you want advice on accessories or not so I won't continue this essay, but I seriously hope this helps you have an insane time like I did! Any questions fire away!
Edit: this is the type of cable I used for transferring from phone to hard drive
http://www.amazon.co.uk/female-Micro-male-Cable-Adapter-Black/dp/B005GI2VMG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425299751&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+input+to+micro+usb+cable
Why can't you just buy a <$1 USB OTG adapter and use it whenever you need to plug in your camera? Then you can get any tablet you want (I recommend the Nexus 7).
It can vary. The ones I bought are below. You flare out the wire then thread the plug together and the teeth bite the wire.
Sewell Direct SW-29863-12 Deadbolt Banana Plugs, 12-Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006U3O566/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vz0EAbAB0KQMT
You'll need banana plugs to connect this to a receiver : Deadbolt Banana Plugs, 12-pair, By Sewell Direct https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006U3O566/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zfztxbAMW2XYD
You can also buy pre made patch cables with banana connectors.
The sub will use an rca subwoofer patch cable.
I use these Sewell Deadbolt Banana Plugs with a Q5 (not Pro) and they fit just right.
If/when you decide to make your own: for speaker cables, these banana plugs work pretty great - add wire to taste.
Plain old 16 gauge wire you can buy at a hardware store will do just fine. The fancy high priced stuff is just jewelry for your sound system is all.
If your receiver and speakers have connectors like these...
http://s15.postimg.org/4evo0op5n/2016_01_13_14_31_49.jpg
You can either use bare wire ends or buy yourself some banana plugs to attach to your wire ends and plug the speaker cables in that way.
http://www.amazon.com/Deadbolt-Banana-12-pair-Sewell-Direct/dp/B006U3O566/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452713347&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=banana+plugs+12+pair
$9
I've used the official Apple one (certainly correct, removes all worry) and the Belkin one below without any problems.
https://www.amazon.com/Apple-Mini-DisplayPort-Adapter-MB570LL/dp/B00W5Q048A/
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Mini-Displayport-Adapter-F2CD029bt/dp/B00E9646RE/
And because I just looked through my order history to find those for you, here's the mini-Displayport to HDMI adapter, and a cable that I have also used successfully, for the other way of doing it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007B6YPAM
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0134V29UA
All of these certainly worked on my Mac Minis 2014, 2011 and 2010. Some are connected still, though my Minis are all rack-mounted now.
You're pretty much out of luck. If you were using a small 1080p tv, it'd be a different story
Although, now that i think about it there's likely a way to get the audio from the rca connectors to a 3.5mm jack
&nbsp;
E: Yeah, you'd need something like this
So what you'd do is just plug in the video connector to the hdmi adapter, and then connect the audio connectors into the adapter, and then connect it to speakers
Then one of these and a set of standard RCA cables should work for you.
>Are there adapters that convert the white and red (i think those were for audio) to something like a headphone jack or usb port?
Yep they're actually the exact same signal as 3.5mm headphones, just over 2 connectors.
1, 2, 3, and 4 - http://pcpartpicker.com/product/Gj6BD3/corsair-speakers-casp211na
They are worse than a set of studio monitors and a dedicated subwoofer, but if you don't want to put in the 2 minutes of effort they still sound good.
As for number 5 on your list, THX certification is pretty much pointless. Speakers can either cover a certain frequency and keep a fairly flat response or not.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVEIY4E
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-10-Inch-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B0002KVQBA
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YRA-104-Dual-RCAF-Y-Cable/dp/B000068O4Y x2
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Premium-Smartphones-Tablets-Theater/dp/B00B2HP1MW
If you reconsider the DIY method, you can purchase that stuff along with 2 standard RCA cables and be done in minutes.
Sorry I meant more a balance between the line in volume from your PC and the assistant volume? My concern being the pc sounds would be really quiet and then Google assistant really loud.
I couldn't find a 3.5mm splitter but if you went 3.5mm to RCA then you separate the left and right to separate plugs
3.5mm to RCA
Then reverse the process but only plug 1 RCA into each cable
RCA female to 3.5mm
switch your PSU to a EVGA G2 imo NEX has bad review for OCing and gaming pc usage
Could get these replacement cables, then : http://www.performance-pcs.com/cablemod-e-series-g2-p2-basic-cable-kit-black.html
(wow wish I knew they did partial kits before I bought a whole kit for $90).
Otherwise you can buy these extensions: https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Sleeved-Extension-Connector-PP07-PCIW/dp/B00B46XJ2K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469472820&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=silverstone+extensions
All you really need is CPU power cable, 24pin power cable, and your gpu power cables to be sleeved, rest should be fairly hidden.
That's kind of funny that they'd screw it up.
Have you tried jamming it in?
If that's not your style:
Two of these should suffice, but you're cutting into your $25 savings.
Actually it didn't, that was an amazon special.
Here you go: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XJQ6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Here's the GPU one as well, in case you were interested: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XJ2K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
LINK
They're Silverstone Tek Sleeved Extensions, they have most cables available in red white and black. They're not amazing quality but I think they look great for the price especially compared to custom sleeved cables.
The drive may have been corrupted the last time it was used, that is not properly unmounted.
If nothing else has been written to the drive, you can use a program called Recuva and attempt to recover the missing files.
https://www.piriform.com/recuva
In the future a simple OTG cable should be used, I'd be skeptical of that adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/Micro-USB-OTG-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00D8YZ2SA
There is a device where you can put an USB drive in the mini USB port of you cellphone.
It's called otg cable
https://www.amazon.com/Micro-USB-OTG-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00D8YZ2SA
I use the dslr controller app and a cheap usb otg dongle.
This lets you control everything, including focus, from your phone or tablet. For focusing, I zoom 10x on a star and then slowly adjust focus one tap at a time. The app sends a command to the focusing motor to move by the smallest amount possible, so it's literally the best you can do.
The cable you would need is a USB OTG cable; micro USB on one end, and USB-A female on the other.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8YZ2SA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AZPIBb3ENW154
You should be able to plug your old S6 into your computer to recovery any files on your internal storage (e.g., pictures, videos, files downloaded from the internet, etc.)
Copying app/system data (e.g., app settings, text messages) will be difficult. I'd recommend using Helium Backup (no root required) or Titanium Backup (my preferred app, but root required).
Also, you can plug a mouse or keyboard into your phone via a USB-OTG cable like one of these.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEl1OfgJWzw
http://www.amazon.com/Micro-USB-OTG-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00D8YZ2SA
> OTG adapter
http://www.amazon.com/Micro-USB-OTG-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00D8YZ2SA
I bought this OTG cable but it was $4.99 at the time with Amazon Prime.
So I should get an hdmi splitter and split the hdmi output from the cable box to the splitter, then run 3 hdmi to ethernet extenders out to the tv's?
something like 3 of these: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extender-Single-Certified/dp/B00G5RBX2Q/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509549170&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=hdmi+cat6
and 1 of these: https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Movcle-Adapter-Powered-Certified/dp/B0180PPTNO/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509549474&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=hdmi+splitter+1x3&amp;dpID=311IVhqkBhL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
There are other ones that go longer for cheaper. It was just an example. And there are plenty of cheap HDBaseT pairs that will do 300ft. Here is one for $60. They also have a 400ft version for $130.
Its the full HDMI signal. No compression.
J-Tech Digital Hdmi Extender https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G5RBX2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_WmBIdBfjdHfJm
I tried it with a couple cat6 cables, a 2' and a 140' one.
I believe it is this one:
http://amzn.com/B00G5RBX2Q
If you are using a splitter you have only one HDMI connection and can have only one display on it. You can have two screens but since they are one signal split into two they'll show the same thing. If you have another display port in your laptop (hdmi/dvi/vga) you can plug that into the second monitor.
If your laptop has USB C you can get a graphics adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Multiport-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B01C316EIK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483866212&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+c+video
That'll let you use the second monitor.
Edit: My bad, I didn't see that there were regular USB 3.0 HDMI adapters: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H91BQ7Y?psc=1
If you can deal with a smaller form factor, the Gigabyte P34Wv5 would be the way to go if you want to keep the machine professional looking. You can also get much better battery life out of these smaller machines. It's still 14", so it's not a huge loss, just 1.6" of display size difference.
However, I don't think you'd want to have multiple displays all the same size as the laptop's. I like to connect mine to externals. You could get two of these, then put the laptop off to the side. or get 3 and connect one via USB. It has VGA, HDMI, and multiple USB ports, so you have a lot of options there.
would be very expensive to get dual monitor via just the TB1 to TB2 port that you might have. Get a TB to HDMI adapter(should be cheap)
Then use this for the second display
StarTech.com USB 3.0 to HDMI Display Adapter - 1080p (1900x1200) - Windows Only - Dual/ Multi-Monitor Video Converter w/ External Graphics Card (USB32HDES) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H91BQ7Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_4sYIDbFP6VTMG
Oops, I just checked our projector. its pure USB that gives the bad frame rates so you may be just fine with HDMI to USB adapter.
Anywho, that cable does not pass video. You need an adapter for that, not a cable. Read the cable description again:
>NOTE: Only support can provide charging, cannot pass the video data!
This is just an example of what you are looking for: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB-HDMI-Adapter-External/dp/B00H91BQ7Y/ref=sr_1_12?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486416319&amp;sr=1-12&amp;keywords=usb+to+hdmi
Does your desktop not have multiple outputs on it?
You can't daisy chain HDMI monitors.
Your options are to see if your laptop manufacturer has a first party docking station that has 3 outputs, or you could get a third party dock like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Universal-Docking-Station-Ethernet/dp/B00ECDM78E
The last option would be to get a couple of USB Video cards like these: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB-HDMI-Adapter-External/dp/B00H91BQ7Y/
Good luck.
If you don't want to use the dock, you can plug a StarTech.com Slim USB 3.0 to HDMI External Video Card Multi Monitor Adapter into a Hapurs 9-in-1 3 Port Portable USB 3.0 Hub, USB3.0 High speed SD TF MMC card reader with Power Switch.
You'll have HDMI, 3 USB 3.0 ports, and an SD reader.
You could get a usb splitter.
Also get a usb-to-hdmi adapter.
Try a USb video card. Like
thishttps://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H91BQ7Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495045462&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=usb+to+hdmi&psc=1
it isn't amazing but it works
Apparently there are.
Would you be after something like this?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Microsoft-CG4-00003-Wireless-Display-Adapter/dp/B00J9C2JDG
As far as I can tell, no, you can't project a Win10 desktop to a Roku device. My Win10 laptop sees my Roku Premiere+ but won't connect to it.
If you want to project your Win10 desktop to your TV, you're going to need a Miracast enabled device like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Wireless-Display-Adapter-v1/dp/B00J9C2JDG
> Is there a way to do this to stream various things variousthat would normally be on tv without the use of a media center?
Do you have a Netflix, Amazon or any streaming service subscription? Because that's what the Roku mainly is for. It's a device to enable you to view content from your streaming service of choice without needing a computer, phone or tablet.
They could repurpose the Microsoft streaming dongle that uses miracast for an Xbox steaming dongle that you plug into hdmi. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J9C2JDG?selectObb=used
There was a post a few months back about how someone attached their Z-Wave stick to a USB coord extender (something like this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH11R3I)
There was something with interference or what not, but I did it and it greatly improved my Z-Wave network. My lock showed up as dead all the time and now it never does. I would highly recommend giving this a try before anything else.
My dongle is plugged in a regular usb 2.0 extension that is plugged in the usb 3.0 hub at the back of my monitor. You can use any old usb extender, no adapter needed. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH11R3I
Its possible that it's not receiving a very good signal (likely because the signal would have to travel through the PC case itself). You can purchase a USB extender cable in order to plug into the back and still be able to receive a signal
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH11R3I/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496883926&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=usb+extender
These adapters are supposed to be able to support dual 4k:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Thunderbolt-Monitor-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B01ANR4CYE/
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Thunderbolt-DisplayPort-Supports-4096x2160/dp/B01F81EIBC/
Also, StarTech has a dock coming out in a couple of months but otherwise have not seen any docks that support dual 4k.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AAAU4WS
I have a Dell XPS 9550. I had a Dell TB15 Thunderbolt dock that, while great in theory, was nothing but trouble (Dell recalled them).
I recently got one of the adapters below and now have two monitors working very well with Fedora 24.
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Thunderbolt-DisplayPort-Supports-4096x2160/dp/B01F81EIBC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473800032&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=plugable+thunderbolt+3
This doesn't directly answer your question, but I noticed that the XPS 15 9560 is HDMI 1.4 and that HDMI 1.4 does not support 21:9 aspect ratio...
I try to stay away from the passive USB -> Monitor setups because of problems like the one you're having. I use the Plugable Thunderbolt 3 to Dual DisplayPort and have had great luck so far with dual monitors.
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Thunderbolt-DisplayPort-Compatible-Supports/dp/B01F81EIBC
Yes. You would need an adapter like this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F81EIBC/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3HIHADV23VGU1
It's all you will need.
You should be able to use Target Display Mode, and use a Thunderbolt 3 to Thunderbolt 2 adapter.
Hi Retropug, I have a Hades Canyon NUC8i7HVK 8809G hooked up to an Apple Thunderbolt Display using USB C.
The cables I'm using are:
Some notes:
Hope that helps!
Look at the proposed systems above both are small enough to fit on a desktop and are fairly cheap as well.
to quote: "
In an effort to cut down on some of the repetitive questions, here are the absolutely cheapest systems we are willing to recommend.
Accessories
For the JBL-based setup, here are some accessories if you want to connect the speakers directly to a computer without an external DAC:
For the Micca setups, you'll need this to connect directly to a computer:
If you're going for the Micca MB42X + SMSL solution, you'll also need speaker wire:
your TV is able to control the volume of the Analog audio outputs with its remote.
see page 31 in your manual on setting analog audio out to Variable:
http://cdn.vizio.com/documents/m60c3/um-m60c3.pdf
you can get a set of powered monitors such as the Vanatoo Transparent One's
http://www.amazon.com/Vanatoo-Transparent-One-Powered-Speakers/dp/B0080K2KUK
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMR210-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000068O3B/
http://www.vanatoo.com/support/connect-to-a-tv-directly#.VuRLeBiSNo4
and add in a subwoofer of choice IF you want to. you have plenty of budget left, if you choose to use it.
Sure will. It's no different than using a preamp with discrete outputs.
You will want to use something like this: 1/8" to RCA discrete L/R
Awesome! :D So it comes with a cable, is it different than the Hosa CMR-210? Would you recommend using one over the other? Thank you so much!
Not sure what the problem would be unless the RCA to 1/8" cord is not pushed into the speakers all the way, or is faulty. Sounds like you have it hooked up right. You should be using a Stereo RCA to 1/8" cord (like this one) plugged into the RCA output of the S2. In this case you probably want the booth switch set to "Main" and the level knob somewhere between half and full. Also go through the setup wizard to make sure the S2 is configured properly.
Complete noob here. On my desktop, I've had a logitech x540 5.1 system for around 9 years now. I'm looking to do an upgrade on a budget and am considering an SMSL SA50 AMP with Micca MB42X speakers. My reasoning is that with a decent amp like this one, I could always upgrade speakers in the future. My first question, which may be dumb, is will I notice a much of a difference over my previous setup? I never run my Logitech speakers at more than 50% volume.
Secondly, looking at the amp online, I see where I can connect my speakers with speaker wire, but I am unsure of how I would connect the input to my desktop and which cables to use.Finally, what are your thoughts on my plan as a budget choice? Thank you for taking the time to read this! :)Edit: will use this cable: https://smile.amazon.com/Hosa-CMR-206-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O3Ba
Hmm... weird I see you fixed it, what was the fix?
For your subpac... the scarlett 2i4 has two output ports for your output 1 & 2. You can hook one of them to your subpac and the other to your monitors. You might need a "Y" RCA -> 1/8" cable like this one: http://smile.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMR210-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000068O3B/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1427151468&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rca+to+1%2F8
The headphone jack of your mixer is an output. Never plug anything except headphones in there.
You need to connect the volca sample to the mixer inputs, using a stereo 1/8th to RCA cable like this:http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMR210-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000068O3B
You can also get this cable at radio shack if you still have one nearby, also any computer store will have them also.
Many pro/musician cables have the ability to pull apart all the way down to the connectors.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/
You can find ones like this TRS (1/4" Phono) or with dual RCA or even XLR - but I prefer TRS for longevity. Less chance of pulling out or bending/strain the connectors behind the speakers. (You can use those balanced inputs with an unbalanced signal from your stuff).
Ideally, you should get a balanced pre-amp (like a pro I/O) - then use balanced TRS or XLR to avoid line interference.
EDIT:
here's the RCA:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMR-210-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O3B/
Yes my PC motherboard does have sub out and it's connected via an RCA cable like this one
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O3B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
http://i1.ytimg.com/vi/5CKbXDuTQMI/maxresdefault.jpg
That was very informative, thank you for that.
Now I do want to confirm, my TV only has AUX and Optical output, so for the Fluance I would also need to get an AUX to RCA adapter right?
And lastly, what is the difference in audio quality difference when comparing optical vs aux-to-rca?
I really appreciate you answering my questions.
You can use an optical tos cable connected to an optical to RCA adapter then to an RCA to 1/8th cable and a 1/8th coupler if necessary. I do exactly this in my bedroom. Works great and the sound still comes from the tv too which is great too.
The problem you have with not being able to hear your friend is because the headset adapter is taking control of chat. If you only have the mic going into the adapter and you are getting audio from some place else you will not hear voice chat. The audio has to come out of the adapter as well.
I think this is what you have yes? http://images.highspeedbackbone.net/itemDetails/T777-1066/T777-1066-out04-kg.jpg
If that is the case and you are not afraid of a bunch of cables coming out of your controller here is a possible solution:
You will need the previously mentioned cable http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_u.W7tb0EYW852 you can plug the pink mic cable right into the mic end of that cable.
For the audio you need to turn your 3 other cables into a single stereo 3.5 with something like this http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Console-Adapter-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B0006U3ACY
in conjunction with one of these http://www.showmecables.com/product/3-5mm-Stereo-Mini-Plug-to-Dual-RCA-Plugs-6-IN.aspx?utm_source=google&amp;utm_medium=cse&amp;utm_campaign=933&amp;zmam=49733141&amp;zmac=5&amp;zmas=1&amp;zmap=933&amp;gclid=Cj0KEQjwgryfBRDn7cvY-pOit4cBEiQAB3nTbmJWQ7KJtba5nFTz0sX8K-fmBK5eu1LdzGdDV-EYz3oaAoz_8P8HAQ (you can find them longer)
You can even use the cable you said you already purchased so all of the cable mess doesn't have to hang directly off the controller.
Hope this helps.
Edit: you can also find this type of cable in just about any length if you need to extend the mic cable. http://www.amazon.com/SANOXY-STR35-CBL6-Stereo-Extension-Female/dp/B0017T9XDI/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408228231&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=3.5+extension+cable
Well, you could actually do this without a receiver, this is how I would do it (this isn't pretty):
This way your TV would be able to switch video signals for you. Since it's all analog audio, it would all go through the analog out RCAs to your Logitech.
(footnote)I'm not sure if your proposed TV can display a digital image and output analog sound.
Or, just get a receiver. But you'll need to get new speakers as well.
I use Microsoft's VGA adapter and it goes to 1080p on my 1920x1200 monitor.
For sound I use http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Console-Adapter-Convert-Single-Pc/dp/B0006U3ACY but for some reason it seems impossible to get cheaply (should be just a couple bucks).
This is the closest adapter I could find.
If you must:
Logitech 5.1 Game Console Adapter Convert Rca Plugs To A Single 1/8 (Discontinued by Manufacturer) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006U3ACY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dO0CCbQ33ZJCS
PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio L/R Converter Adapter with Optical Cable for PS3 Xbox HD DVD PS4 Home Cinema Systems AV Amps Apple TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vP0CCbGW2KH1Q
They make an adapter for this.
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Console-Adapter-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B0006U3ACY
The only way to get surround sound out of PS4 is by using either the HDMI or the optical out port. You can use all the cables and adapters you want, but 3.5mm jack and RCA cables will only produce stereo sound splitted among the speakers.
If you're happy to have stereo sound, you could get something like this
Looks like the back of logitech x530 speakers?
If so, think this is the one you need
You want an adapter box like this you can also get special cables if you don't want the adapter.
Will something like this do the trick? I have a 5.1 output on my motherboard that's hooked up to my 2.0 stereo speakers (using my old CD player at a "receiver" or some sort).
This is what you need
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Console-Adapter-Convert-Single-Pc/dp/B0006U3ACY
Also, since this is the same setup I'm currently using (I have a logitech 5.1 system designed for computers), you can buy this as well to hook it directly up to your HDTV
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0U008H8083&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-_-pla-_-NA-_-NA
What if I used pc speakers and hooked up the red and white composite cables to this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006U3ACY/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&amp;m=ATVPDKIKX0DER and then plugged in the headphones to the pc speakers?? Does this sound feasible??
In that case you could do something like this (doesn't have to be this specific cable, I think it may be a bit too long):
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Audio-Splitter-Cable-3-5mm/dp/B009NEX6SC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=undefined&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Female+female+female+auxiliary+splitter
And then put something like this on the male end to hook your speakers up to.
http://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Stereo-Coupler-Female-30ST-STFF/dp/B000I963FE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408305714&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=Female+female+auxiliary
A simple turn around will do the trick.
I would think something like this would work:
https://www.computercablestore.com/5-ft-audio-y-splitter-cable-35mm-female-to-stereo-males
you would probably have to buy this as well since I doubt your 2 sources are that close together:
https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable-leads/dp/B00OQ0R1KW
https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Stereo-Coupler-Female-30ST-STFF/dp/B000I963FE/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469963099&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=female+femail+coupler
This + this. You will also need this.
There's a very simple and cheap, entirely passive two-step adapter solution I'm using myself:
First, you need an RCA to 3.5mm adapter, one of these (although you can find it for cents if you're looking around a bit). This adapter was originally meant to go the other direction, but we want the opposite, so we need a 3.5mm double female coupler.
So, instead of plugging the audio into the converter, it goes into the above adapter. Plug your speakers or headphones into the other end of the coupler and you're done.
If you have a console like the PS2, Gamecube, Wii or original Xbox, I would recommend not using a composite to HDMI adapter, but instead a component to HDMI adapter. As the name implies, the image signal gets split into three different color channels via three separate wires, which results in much higher image quality and stability. These cables are more expensive, as are converters, but the difference is substantial.
With systems like the SNES or older, I can not recommend a simple HDMI converter, since the types of signals these systems produce are not suited to simple analog to digital conversion. I wrote a bit about this here, if you're interested. I go into much further detail in some replies.
Almost all converters introduce additional lag, but there are pricey ones that reduce the delay to almost nothing. What's your budget and which systems are you trying to connect to your monitor?
You'll need this and this and this and this.
Or you could buy an X12 headset.
This will work either way, and for multiple outputs into headphones. Plug the audio outs into the vacant slots and get a female to female 3.5mm cable to the main out to where you can plug in your phones. Here's a link for one:
https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Stereo-Coupler-Female-30ST-STFF/dp/B000I963FE
Something like this?
Because there'd be absolutely no way around that problem either, right?
https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Stereo-Coupler-Female-30ST-STFF/dp/B000I963FE
You can get a female to female 3.5 adapter and it'll work fine.
https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Stereo-Coupler-Female-30ST-STFF/dp/B000I963FE
One like that should work, but you can get some higher quality ones for a bit more. Just search '3.5 female to female adapter' for other options.
It's also a stronger lever. That 1/8" jack will get worse and worse eventually becoming unusable without jimmying it just right. The kind of thing that will drive you crazy.
I've been using the same adapter from Grado for 15 years.
Hum Maybe a Micca Origen+, another real nice piece of gear but alas only available in the US, since I live in France I've had to look elsewhere.
Or else just get an adapter but mind to get one with a chord as otherwise you'll be putting to much weight on the 1/8 mm input.
something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Grado-Mini-Adaptor/dp/B001DK1ZVO/ref=sr_1_26?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510911707&amp;sr=1-26&amp;keywords=headphone+adapter+1%2F4+to+1%2F8
I can help with the kid's keyboard part. This is pretty bootleg, but it'll work. I'm not the best at explaining things, if you need clarification, let me know.
If you can get something like this you can mount the female portion to the keyboard and create a more standard output (instead of being limited by the length of your created cable). edit: You can remove the speaker and use that newly reclaimed room to mount the output.
Hope this helps.
Cable for less stress, I use this one here
I've just bought this from Grado to use with Mojo
https://www.amazon.com/Grado-Mini-Adaptor/dp/B001DK1ZVO
Very nice, sturdy adapter, well worth the price (totally ~$22)!
This one https://www.amazon.com/CARDAS-Audiophile-Adapter-Female-Mini-plug/dp/B00EY2QPV8/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494418630&amp;sr=8-18&amp;keywords=6.3mm++adapter or this one
https://www.amazon.com/Grado-Mini-Adaptor/dp/B001DK1ZVO/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494418630&amp;sr=8-11&amp;keywords=6.3mm++adapter
I would reach out to Sennhesier, maybe your adapter is defective. I've owned a range of their headphones and they have always been tight-fitting.
Otherwise, the Grado adapters are well regarded - https://www.amazon.com/Grado-Mini-Adaptor/dp/B001DK1ZVO .
They are pretty efficient, so anything decent should do. I think a Schiit Magni 2 fed from your onboard would be your best choice, but something like a Schiit Fulla 2 or Fiio E10K would also do fine. You might even be fine running it straight out of your onboard sound. If you do decide to run it out of something with a 3.5mm jack, get an adapter like this to ensure that an accidental yank of the cable does not break anything. Solid adapters like this are a really bad idea.
Well, it depends on what you're playing from. I have the HD650 which is (imho) even better, but also more demanding. Does it sound it's best when driven from a decent amp? Hell yes. Does it still sound good when driven straight from my Macbook Pro, iPod Touch or Android phone? Sure! Not as well as being well driven by an amp, but more than good enough for me to enjoy.
The HD598 is easier to drive than the HD650. You should be fine in the initial going without an amp or dac unless your source is total crap. One thing is that the cable on the HD598 will have a 1/4" plug at the end and probably some 1/4" to 1/8" step down adapter. Quite possibly, it'll be one of those that'll put torque on the jack which I'm not too fond of, so plan to spend an extra $15 or so on a better one like this one from Grado
Ah good point
Radio shack has this for a couple bucks http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001DK1ZVO/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1368143673&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SL75
But yeah that is kinda silly
I can think of a variety of reasons:
They make Y splitters for cheap, they also have 3/1 splitters for around the same price.
A note on the case: The Corsair Spec 02 has a black/red theme and comes with 3 red LED case fans. It's also an ATX case so it would be better for future upgrades. It was also $50 last time I checked.
Another more important note: Both of theses cases come with at least 2 fans, and the build listed has 2 fans. The Gigabyte H110M-A only has one header for powering fans from the motherboard. I would recommend getting this, because it will allow you to power 2 fans off 1 header.
Easiest solution is a Y splitter.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OFP6QW
https://www.amazon.com/PWM-Y-Splitter-Cable-Adapter/dp/B002OFP6QW
They are both functioning and spinning as intended. Nothing wrong with them from what I see.
Also, could I hook up both fans into a single 4-pin y-splitter and connect it to the CPU_FAN header?
You can get a Y-Splitter- https://www.amazon.com/PWM-Y-Splitter-Cable-Adapter/dp/B002OFP6QW and connect 2->1. I have my two radiator fans on CPU1 and my two intakes on CPU2; I have a fractal R5 so pretty much the same setup as the define C. I would suggest getting one high quality silent wings 3 PWM high speed fan now and save up for another when you can. Better off getting 1 high quality fan than 2 eh fans, ie like stock
It should work fine, so long as it's not the "thunderbolt display" model. If your card has miniDP, you can just plug it in directly. If it only has full-size DP, get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DP2MDPMF6IN-DisplayPort-Video-Adapter/dp/B003N3DTKY
Yeah so I bought this one. http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DP2MDPMF6IN-DisplayPort-Video-Adapter/dp/B003N3DTKY/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406075412&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=startech+mini+displayport+to+displayport
I think mine may be faulty. It just outputs lines, and I know for sure it's a Cinema display since I have three cables attached with the mini displayport. I reordered one to see if mine is faulty.
This thread seems to indicate that it would, but like you said the other non-video connections (USB, camera, etc.) would not work. Your card has a DisplayPort output and Thunderbolt is essentially mini-DisplayPort, so all you would need is an adapter like this one.
I contacted Wacom support and they told me to try this adapter https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DP2MDPMF6IN-DisplayPort-Video-Adapter/dp/B003N3DTKY and that it should be 100% recommended while the other cable is not so I'll see if it helps.
Edit: also I just plugged the usb from the wacom adapter to my pc's usb 3.0 slot
This
There's this, but it's out of stock for awhile. I did see some third party sellers on Amazon still have it in stock, but YMMV. https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=29434 You'll need a display port to mini-dp adapter as well. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DP2MDPMF6IN-DisplayPort-Video-Adapter/dp/B003N3DTKY
Not dumb at all.
The new Cinema Displays (when they went LED, so ~2008) all use mini-DisplayPort (mDP) cables for video to the monitor as well as USB for the USB hub, audio, camera and other build-in features. Essentially, if you have a DisplayPort or mDP on your graphics card, you can usually plug-and-play directly to the monitor. I just plug it into the mDP on my GTX690 and it picks it up. In fact, if you have a DisplayPort on your card, you just get an adapter which allows you to convert from DP -> mDP and it also work great. From there, I installed Brightness Controller which, similar to OSX, allow you to completely control the brightness of the monitor via keystroke. Its great for late-night gaming or movie watching when you want to turn all the lights out.
You have a Apple LED Cinema Display, not the Thunderbolt Display. It uses mini-display port, which is compatible with display port.
I'm not sure how adopted mini-display port is in the PC world as far as adapters are concerned, but that's the interface you're looking for.
Maybe something like this? http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DP2MDPMF6IN-DisplayPort-Video-Adapter/dp/B003N3DTKY
That monitor won't accept video signal over USB.
Depending on the monitor then in all likelihood; sure, If it's one of those Thunderbolt models you might be able to do it as long as your gaming rig either has a thunderbolt port on the i/o (unlikely) or you can pick up a Thunderbolt expansion card (basically like one of those USB Brackets) for not ridiculous sums on amazon.
IIRC the majority of Apple's displays are just mini display port so you should be able to use just either an adapter or go one better and get a mini to full cable like these).
I feel you on this one bro, gotta hand it to Apple, those displays are simply beautiful. Also Yes, links are amazon uk, #ukmasterrace.
I already ordered one because I saw it work in a video.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003N3DTKY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Will it work though?
The GTX 970 has displayport. Your monitor should have came with a mini displayport to displayport adapter. Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003N3DTKY/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://youtu.be/rcRIXgogo3M
this should work
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0144NS4Z6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003N3DTKY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&amp;psc=1
A little late to the game but I got mine from an Amazon seller, here, and received it very quickly. Hopefully shopRBC is selling it at a comparable price.
It says right there on the newegg link that you posted that it "Additionally, the GTX 590 is capable of crunching the latest games at the highest super-sampling anti-aliasing while giving you full 3D Vision Surround support, or you can split up to 4 monitors up - all off of a single card"
I'm not to sure if it will work properly on non-sli motherboards, but I doubt it it would play well with AMD motherboards without SLI certification.
All of AMD's videocards since the 5000 series (even the low end cards) support atleast 3 monitors off of one gpu. But with the AMD videocards unless you have a monitor with display port built into it, you'll need an active displayport adapater. Avoid getting a passive adapter which while much cheaper won't work properly with 3 or more monitors.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004071ZX0/
Works up to 1920x1200 and has been tested/certified/whatever by AMD to work with their cards. Dual-link adapters are more expensive if you have a larger monitor.
Alright, I think I'll order this Accell adapter.
I'll post back once I receive it and try it out.
Here is a list from AMD single active link active and dual link active sections of the list should be fine, anything that's not passive. Direct link to an adapter taken from AMDs list.
will I need to get an adapter like this?
or can I just plug them all in? i dont think they are the same resolution
I have used both of these with success:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009YC3W1Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004071ZX0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/SANOXY-Female-On-The-Go-Adapter-Samsung/dp/B005GI2VMG/ref=pd_cp_cps_3
Trying one of these.
On top of that, you can also plug your DS4 into any Android device (I am assuming 4.0 or higher, but not %100 sure on that), and use it as a controller with very little configuration by buying this little doohickey:
http://www.amazon.com/CNE13028-Female-Micro-On-The-Go-Adapter/dp/B005GI2VMG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1394749159&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=usb+to+usb+micro
http://www.amazon.com/SANOXY-Female-On-The-Go-Adapter-Samsung/dp/B005GI2VMG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1345939512&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=sanoxy+usb+2.o its cheap but shipping takes a long time cause its free
Couldn't find one that was bent the other way. Looks like the only option on amazon is a straight one http://www.amazon.com/SANOXY-Female-On-The-Go-Adapter-Samsung/dp/B005GI2VMG/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1346259018&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=usb+otg
https://www.amazon.co.uk/female-Micro-male-Cable-Adapter/dp/B005GI2VMG
and plug in a usb mouse.
Have you had any issues with any application and a mouse or keyboard?
I have this cable SANOXY USB 2.0 Female to Micro USB Male OTG(On-The-Go) Cable Adapter for Samsung Galaxy s2 i9100
I have a rooted stock Verizon SGS3. Mass store seems to work fine.
I just tried using a mouse and everything seemed to be fine. One minor issue is that when using the mouse with the stock camera app, the mouse movement would only work correctly in landscape. If in portrait, up-down mouse movements would be left-right movements. And vice versa.
I tried the mouse with the ucam app and it was the opposite. Portrait was fine, but landscape stuck with the portrait mouse movements.
EDIT: Firefox, QuickPic and a few other apps worked fine in portrait and landscape. The camera apps were the only ones I saw issue with, but I didn't go through everything.
http://www.amazon.com/SANOXY-Female-Micro-On-The-Go-Adapter/dp/B005GI2VMG
and a 6' USB extension:
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Hi-Speed-Extension-Cable--Female/dp/B001MSU1FS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1367994833&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=6%27+usb+extension+cable
Buy this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GI2VMG/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And connect a USB mouse!
Not really, I've only ever bought two and they were just the highest reviewed on Amazon. This (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GI2VMG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) is the one I bought and I've never had any issues with it. It looks cheaply made but it works for me. ¯_(ツ)_/¯
I know this cable works, but shipping takes for ever. Don't know if you have to order from amazon uk or not, but they ship worldwide. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GI2VMG/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00
If you root, you can get sixaxis app which connects wirelessly.
Otherwise, get a micro USB to USB adapter like this one.
Here is the mobile version of your link
I set up my 7.1 with these Sewell Deadbolt plugs. They are fantastic.
http://www.amazon.com/Deadbolt-Banana-12-pair-Sewell-Direct/dp/B006U3O566
Also, is it worth getting a set of these?
http://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Direct-SW-29863-12-Deadbolt-12-Pair/dp/B006U3O566/
I think they will work with the Dennon but I wanted to make sure. I really need to pull everything apart and clean up the wire runs and I thought having good connectors would help. Right now just the bare wires going into back of receiver. Any other suggestions for cleaning up wire runs in general? I have a crap-ton of stuff in my TV cabinet - PS3, cable box, receiver, airport extreme, two network hard drives, headphone remote receiver, power strip, etc....
I have been putting together a 5.1 system, and was wondering if you would be able to take a look at it! Maybe something you would recommend other than what is here. This set up is a little more than I wanted to spend, but from what I have read about each piece, it seems to be worth it. Any advice is appreciated!
Denon S500BT
BIC America F12
Micca MB42X Center
Micca MB42X BookShelf
Fluance AVBP2 Surround
A few questions I have:
Sewell deadbolt-style plugs
Really easy to set up
I use these. I find that the ones with only four points on the plug tend to get loose. These have a more secure plug.
Edit: just realized that they're the same ones you already use. I've had these for a year and they went through a move and I haven't had any issues with them.
Wow I've never heard of those before and it looks like that is exactly what I need. Thanks so much! I'll be getting these.
First of all, thanks, I'm gonna bookmark those banana plugs for next time I need to buy some. Extra safety = awesome.
I agree that full metal banana plugs are kind of nuts. I use these Sewells which are mostly plastic and are awesome or if I'm using full metal banana plugs I tape or shrink wrap them for insulation.
In case we yank the cable from the speaker end, it is almost guaranteed
to form a short circuit and then only the amplifiers protection circuit can
save it. There is also high likelihood that when that happens and the
amplifier is set to high gain
Yeah and no. It's not quite as bad as you say, is it? Music is very peaky; even with music playing there's usually like 1W or less actually being sent to the speakers even if you have a powerful amp. And if no music is playing, it's essentially 0W.
I've accidentally touched the plugs together a bunch of times, because I'm an idiot. If no music is playing nothing happens. If music is playing the receiver/amp has always flipped right over to protection mode. (Eventually, yeah, I learned from my mistakes and that's why I use the insulated plugs now)
I don't have any available HDMI/DVI ports to use but I do have two extra Mini-DisplayPorts. Would a Female HDMI to Male Mini-DisplayPort adapter work? For Reference, I'm using a MSI Twin Frozr 7950.
Thunderbolt to HDMI
Thunderbolt to VGA
Thunderbolt to DVI
Yeah. My fiancee was just playing Stick of Truth on our 56" Samsung. You just need a cheap mini displayport to HDMI adapter.
Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/PNY-A-DM-HD-W01-Mini-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B007B6YPAM/
I'm away from my Mac right now so I may have the name wrong but I purchased (4.99) an app on there called Sofaplay that pushes MP4 videos to the Xbox One. I also have a HDMI adapter I use to mirror my Mac screen to the Xbox one by removing my cable box HDMI and placing it into [this] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007B6YPAM/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Db6wtb0ZC8JXG).I'm sure there is a cheaper one. Either way works I use Sofaplay when I am too lazy to get up and use the adapter.
This one's held up solidly for me: https://www.amazon.com/PNY-Thunderbolt-DisplayPort-Adapter--DM-HD-W01/dp/B007B6YPAM/
You have the exact same logic as I had, I got my mouse, keyboard, and HDMI-Mini DisplayPort hardware for well under $130. I can take a picture if you want to see them for size etc.
I got the Logitech Tablet Keyboard for Windows for $39 (now $43.75). I got this one specifically because of the layout of the Ctrl key (can't stand the Fn key being on the outside). I use it daily and it works great. Only downside for me is you have to use Fn to press the F-keys, but I quickly got used to it. The included case is nice if you want to throw it in a backpack or carry it naked; but once I got my smaller bag, I put the case away and just carry it to keep down weight and size.
I got the Microsoft Sculpt Comfort Mouse for $23. Its a nice compact mouse that is made specifically for Windows 8. I carry it around with the rest of the stuff. I usually use the pen, but when I am using my Surface as a media box, it's really nice to have.
And for good measure, I got the PNY MiniDisplayPort to HDMI for $10. But really, you could probably go with almost any option. I decided to go cheap, but not the cheapest, and this one has been working great for the past few weeks.
Unless it's changed in the last few years, in order to use an hdmi with a Mac, you'll need an adaptor to fit the computer's video out. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007B6YPAM/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_TOQYub14MZT6S)
Full Cable
Adapter Only
I've had one of these since my SP1 (now have SP2) and it's worked like a charm! I've carried it in my bag everyday, and it works with my friends' macbooks as well quite nicely. Plug this into your surface -> HDMI to VGA cable-> Monitor.
Voila! (results not guaranteed)
This is also handy for presentations in a pinch/when you want to display stuff on a TV that only accepts HDMI and not VGA.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007B6YPAM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Works fine. I've had no issues with it.
I'm doing it the same way you are, except with this adapter. I'm actually starting to think that adapter is the problem, seeing as it's advertised as "Full 1080p HD video". I just ordered your adapter, fingers crossed it will work!
To clarify. You are going from the playstation to the monitor from [these] (http://sr.photos3.fotosearch.com/bthumb/CSP/CSP688/k18660421.jpg) cables. And then from there, you are taking an aux cable from the aux port of the monitor and plugging that into the Bose Companion set? If that is the case, I don't believe that is how that is designed to be used. You want this instead.
Hope this helps!
I use this cable https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Adapter-Tablets-Computer-Speaker/dp/B00B2HP1MW/ref=asc_df_B00B2HP1MW/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=226131567976&amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=11892104208795377907&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9014324&amp;hvtargid=pla-392941865005&amp;psc=1
Plug the systems RCAs into this cable, then plug the 3.5mm into the speakers headphone jack :D
Would this work?
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Adapter-Tablets-Computer-Speaker/dp/B00B2HP1MW/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=RCA+to+3.5&amp;qid=1564433767&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-9
Hard to tell without looking at the back of the receiver, but those two RCA's are most likely input cables. Your TV audio out is optical or 3.5mm. Try a cheap 3.5mm to RCA female cable. Plug 3.5 mm into your phone, and RCA female into those RCA cables. Once you have everything plugged in, play music on your phone and set receiver volume to ~50% and phone volume to ~75%. Cycle through all of the inputs on the receiver. Once you find the one that works, move the 3.5mm cable from your phone into the "audio" port on your TV and you will be good to go.
Cable: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Premium-Smartphones-Tablets-Theater/dp/B00B2HP1MW
TaoTronics Long Range Bluetooth 5.0 Transmitter/Receiver
1Mii B03 or B03 Lite
Bluetooth Transmitter Receiver V5.0 aptX
Adapter Cable:
3.5mm Male to 2 Female RCA
3.5MM Male to 2 RCA Female
Ok so I ended up actually trying that, but it is not working, so I don’t really know what to do...
I bought the adapter: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00B2HP1MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_0vA4DbMX65MQG
I connected it from the turntable to the soundbar. Soundbar was set to AUX on the turntable, I tried both line and Phono.
No sound. Any idea why?
thanks!
SCART cables are all pack a punches from retro gaming cables. In and Outs.
This is what I'm using for the headphone to audio splitter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2HP1MW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is the VGA to Dreamcast cable - https://www.ebay.com/itm/401507311093?ViewItem=&amp;item=401507311093
They’re extensions.
Silverstone Tek Sleeved Extension Power Supply Cable with 1 x 8-Pin to PCI-E 8-Pin Connector (PP07-PCIW) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XJ2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IfqGAbDA47D5Q
yeah, but pricey:
https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Sleeved-Extension-Connector-PP07-PCIW/dp/B00B46XJ2K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1517935401
or this one for a bit less: https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Sleeved-Extension-Connector-PP07-PCIBR/dp/B00H45K3M4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1517935401EDIT: connector looks wrongI have a few, they are well made. It's an 8 pin to 6+2 extension
Yes! Exactly! [I think I found one, but it's only 8 inches. I guess that could work.] (https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Sleeved-Extension-Connector-PP07-PCIW/dp/B00B46XJ2K)
Link to the extensions I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XJ2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iCjLybA71DJ02
There are what I personally have in my system, they are white cables with black connectors:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XJQ6/
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XJ2K/
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XJRK/
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XKLA/
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XKK6/
I actually only bought two 8-pin PCIe cable extension and a 24-pin Motherboard cable extension since all of the other cables are hidden.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XJQ6
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XKK6
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XJ2K
Will do. I saw a build on part picker that used these to resolve that: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XJ2K/?tag=pcpapi-20.
What do you think about two of these with an EVGA 550 GS power supply? Are these things plug and play, as I know that if you try something like Corsair sleeved cables on an EVGA PSU it can break some parts, and vice versa etc. Are extensions safe to use?
EDIT: Just read up on it now, apparently it's compatible with all PSUs. Just a little cautious just in case lol.
I used these silverstone cables for both the motherboard power and the 6+2 PCIe power http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XJQ6/ref=oh_details_o05_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XJ2K/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Thanks for the reply! I'm using these which are pretty reputable brand.
Like this?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B46XJ2K/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1449842309&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=psu+extension+cable&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31AzohUFmeL&amp;ref=plSrch&amp;th=0
No, that shouldnt be necessary, the 6+2's will work, just take the +2 off. And I had the same issue, I have the same PSU but no big companies make sleeved cables for it. I would recommend these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XJQ6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XJ2K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
silverstone cable extensions, theyre cheap, work with any PSU and look great, just attach them to the end of the black evga cables from your psu. Have them in my system and love them.
It should be. Something like this is what you're looking for, then just plug in a mouse and transfer your files. If you can't put them on the computer for some reason, I'll show you another method.
If anything, use USB so it'll recognize it as a keyboard and not a mic/headphones.
But why not just buy a USB OTG cable for like $5 and plug a normal keyboard into your phone with no work required? It's a much more simple solution.
If you have an OTG Cable, next time your at your mates place you should be able to plug their iPhone into your android phone using the OTG cable and a Lightning cable and import the photos as if the iPhone were a camera.
EDIT: If you live far away from each other this could be a problem, other than that, this is by far the simplest solution.
Don't you have a pre-made route somewhere that we can check out? :)
Should you want to upload your riding history while touring, you can get a USB OTG cable if you have a USB on the go capable smart phone (most Androids are nowadays, dunno about iPhone).
For example: micro USB OTG cable: https://www.amazon.com/Micro-USB-OTG-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00D8YZ2SA
or USB type C OTG cable: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Macbook-Chromebook-OnePlus-Devices/dp/B00ZWN64RS
I use it with my Edge 705 while touring and my One Plus 3 phone and it works great for downloading the GPX history files to my phone.
Not as far as I know. Might be possible since is a USB mass storage device. I'd try it with this: http://www.amazon.com/Micro-USB-OTG-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00D8YZ2SA I believe a male to make USB cable goes against spec.
https://www.amazon.com/Micro-USB-OTG-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00D8YZ2SA
OK, no problem, I just needed to understand what you need.
You need an OTG to USB cable. And it needs to NOT be at 90 degrees. So NOT this http://www.amazon.com/eForCity-Micro-USB-Adapter-Cable/dp/B005QX7KYU .
You want something like this http://www.amazon.com/Micro-USB-OTG-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00D8YZ2SA . I'm not positive this particular one works, someone recommended one to me 2 months ago but I can't find that link right now.
Once you plug that in, you plug in your hard drive to that and then you should be able to access your hard drive. I suggest using Kodi or Archos to access your video files in a Netflix like setup. There are probably other options also but I have used these two and they are good.
If you want to hook other USB things up, you need a usb hub to connect to that otg cable, then your hard drive and other things would go to the hub.
That help you?
Get one of these, and one of these. Also there is no need for the all caps. Just ask the question like a reasonable person.
normally, one of the signals will cut out just briefly enough for the desktop to detect a lost connection which makes it refresh so then the other TV (and desktop monitor) briefly flicker. I'm sorry, we haven't though to take any pictures/vids.
the TVs are 4k capable but we are happy with 1080p, which is what we have been using.
We used J-tech as seen Here for the baluns.
We did two up close tests.
One with the TV on the floor (it flickered)
and with it mounted on the wall and the desktop on a table beneath it. In the 2nd setup on the table, I think was one of the only times we didn't see it flicker.
We have tried substituting a Apple laptop using a micro display port and my personal desktop with an HDMI port and both fell victim to the TVs flickering.
Not Wi-Fi but the best I could think of is. And bear in mind this is Totally Theorerical. You could get a pair of Ethernet over Power Line adapters (best rated you can find) and then do HDMI over ethernet with a set of converters. In Theory this should give you enough bandwidth for 4k if your electrical wiring is half decent.
Ethernet over Power
TP-Link AV1200 Power Line https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y3QYTS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dyEhAbCXSTHD7
Hdmi over Ethernet
J-Tech Digital Hdmi Extender By Single Cat 5E/6/7 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G5RBX2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OzEhAbZK031FP
If you're feeling up to running some cat6 - you can always get one of these (and some cable):
https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extender-Single-1080P/dp/B00G5RBX2Q/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523337226&amp;sr=1-2-spons&amp;keywords=hdmi+extender&amp;psc=1
If you get an extra 21.1 remote (or repurpose the current tv2 remote, just sacrificing control of tv2), you can actually program it to operate tv1. You just have to flip the little number (after taking off the battery cover) to "1" and make sure the little toggle is set to "uhf". (the benefit of this being you wont need line of site to operate tv1)
Flip open the cover on the front of your receiver and hit "system info" then hit record on your newly repurposed 21.1 remote to pair the remote with your receiver.
Yes, if you get a sling adapter you should be able to see most if not all of your subscribed channels using dish anywhere - basically it uses your internet connection to upload compressed live straight from your receiver, over the internet, to wherever it is you are - so having a decent upload speed can help - at least 250kb or so upload will work for the mobile app.
https://www.mydish.com/dish-anywhere/sling-adapter
Just be aware that the 722k is pretty much an obsolete receiver at this point - the only people eligible to get it are people who have it and get it replaced because it stopped working - or customers who have the older 525 and do a migration.
An alternative is to get the hopper, but only get it for two tv's. Get a wifi joey - it costs the same per month as a regular tv and has only a one time "fee" of $25. You can then move that receiver throughout your house - just needs hdmi and power. This is usually your most economical choice if you want to pay for as few tvs as possible.
There's a selection of HDMI over Cat6 adaptors on Amazon. Apparently you can now get ones that require only 1x Cat6.
Note that these usually need to be direct cables from point A to point B. They are not ethernet so you can't run them via a switch, over WiFi, or anything else.
I would try something like this: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extender-Single-1080P/dp/B00G5RBX2Q
Amp: https://smile.amazon.com/Pyle-Hydra-Marine-Amplifier-Waterproof/dp/B000N5T0T4
Extender: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extender-Single-Through/dp/B00G5RBX2Q/
&#x200B;
Switcher: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-VS221HDQ-Automatic-Priority-Switching/dp/B00IUCVUB8/
We have one of that switcher, and one from the same company that's HDMI or VGA in instead of 2 HDMI.
Ethernet cables can carry HDMI video
Theoreticals are above 25' for signal degradation. Then it depends on the vendor and quality. I'd say 25' is your max, and anything above that you'll want to use a HDMI extender.
https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extender-Single-1080P/dp/B00G5RBX2Q?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1
Something like that. I actually just installed one about a few weeks ago. Works really well!
when it comes to video scources(with todays tech) you always want to go wired. in my expierance wirelss never works and is unrelaible even in the expensive options. but hdmi to ethernet adapters are affordable like this one. ive used them before and they work well. but if your stuck on wireless, id reccomend the extron elink 100, this one uasually works if the 2 point have line of sight if they can see each other and nothing comes between them they will uasually stay connected but it is something youd have to check every time you try to use the video scource. but like i said if you want reliablilty always go wired.
Thank you for the links. I just want to be sure I understand the products you are linking me to. The first one is basically 2 convertor boxes and you would plug a short hdmi cable from the splitter into an input box, then in lieu of using the 50 ft hdmi cable, you would use a fiber optics cable through the wall to connect the 2 boxes together, then plug another short hdmi cable from the output box into the TV.
Would this work?
https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extender-Single-Certified/dp/B00G5RBX2Q/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505843153&amp;sr=8-16&amp;keywords=hdmi%2Bextender&amp;th=1
If so, it'd be kind of pricey to set it up using these as I would need 2. Any chance of getting better 50' hdmi cables fixing this?
20 meters is a long ways, most things would be not cheap - you'd probably look at some fibre. OK I just did a quick look on Amazon, not too badly priced for consumers, the ones we use at work are I think around 300$
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G5RBX2Q/ref=psdc_3015395011_t1_B001PT1A7C
Oh, yeah just doing 1080p here. These are the ones I use, but they do have 4k ones that you don't need two ethernet ports for.
1080p w/o IR: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G5RBX2Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
1080p w/ IR: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0764KX3JR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The ones that support 4K are at-least twice the price basically and if you want HDR 4:4:4 and all that jazz.
There is definitely a solution. What you need is a balun at both ends. A balun will let you stream HDMI or audio or both over your ethernet cabling.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00G5RBX2Q/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_23_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=PWHP9VMFH2W8R9KXV2FS
Doesn't work like that. The only protocol that is capable of daisy-chaining is DisplayPort, and that's only supported on extremely high end monitors, and even then everything has to be DP, you can't mix in other standards, especially not VGA. VGA is honestly completely dead on basically all current products.
If you only have the 1 HDMI output, you'll need to pick up a USB video adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H91BQ7Y/
Those USB adapters like that are really low power, so you'll really only be able to do some basic office work and video playback on the monitor using it.
USB "graphics cards" with audio support is your best option as HDMI soundcards sadly is not a thing.
I currently have this one and it supports 5.1 audio.
If you just need stereo, the slim adapter is a cheaper alternative.
Yea, both Zoom and Meet have in-app pickers for which devices to use. It's very easy.
No HDMI usually, I just use the laptop's screen. You can find USB to HDMI adapters that you can plug into the hub, there are also USB mini docks that do this kind of thing. Also class compliant.
For example, both of my laptops are USB-C, so I have a mini USB-C dock with all my VC stuff plugged into it.
For screen sharing, I just use the built in sharing that Zoom and Meet provide. No need to get complicated and try and do HDMI capture.
Everything that's needed is built in to it. You usually have to install the drivers first then connect it and away you go. Here's an example of one I've used a few times.
Many laptops will only support 2 displays due to GPU limitations. A dock may be your best option, but a USB to video adapter might work as well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H91BQ7Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FIGUBb69MJ4PN
You're talking about something like this, right?
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB-HDMI-Adapter-External/dp/B00H91BQ7Y
It should work. I set a USB to VGA up for someone on their laptop ages ago and it worked surprisingly well.
That said, if this is a desktop you're probably better off putting in a video card. These things are mostly meant for laptops that don't have that option.
Yeah sorry i didn't post a link. This one will work great for either of those laptops.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB-HDMI-Adapter-External/dp/B00H91BQ7Y/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1550785108&sr=8-12&keywords=external+video+card
I looked for some docking stations but they don't really make modern ones as much. They're normally built for a specific model but i guess these took over the market instead because of how universal they are.
Just edited the post, but would this work?
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Wireless-Display-Adapter-v1/dp/B00J9C2JDG
Should mention I'm not using it for gaming, using it for work and productivity.
You could try this adapter (https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Wireless-Display-Adapter-v1/dp/B00J9C2JDG.) with a digital monitor or TV along with a wireless keyboard/mouse combo. I have this logitech keyboard and it works great. https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Touchpad-Internet-Connected/dp/B014EUQOGK/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468945681&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=logitech+wireless+keyboard+and+mouse
That is a typo. I couldn't fix it. I meant this https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Wireless-Display-Adapter-v1/dp/B00J9C2JDG . It allows you to cast/airplay anything on your Surface to a tv.
Any Miracast adapter should work, or a smart tv with miracast built in. I use the official (and overpriced) Microsoft adapter . It plugs into an HDMI and requires a powered USB as well for the extra juice, you can plug that into the TV accessory port or a wall socket. Really any Miracast dongle should do the trick.
On the real tho - I set these up at work all the time for meetings and so forth. no software is needed just search "connect to wireless display" in windows 10.
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Wireless-Display-Adapter-v1/dp/B00J9C2JDG
This might be what you need.
Yeah rooting and using one of these would probably be your best bet.
Here's a guide on how to enable Miracast support after you've rooted.
What you can do, if you don't mind lag (gaming wise, it's ok for browsing etc), is buying a miracast dongle (Microsoft's example) use the hdmi output for one of the displays, while simultaneously casting to the second display using the dongle.
Do check if your laptop supports miracast though. If in the "project to" menu, you have a "connect to a wireless display" option, it does.
As far as I know, the splitter that ggagagg suggested only duplicates a single signal to two screens, and the ability to daisy chain screens using a single output is only available to Apple's thunderbolt.
In my experience trying to deal with AirPlay in any kind of educational environment, it has been terrible and unreliable. I don't think this is a good replacement option for a SmartBoard.
I've seen many people complain about the same kinds of issues (choppiness, frequent disconnections, other odd software issues) with mirroring the display to the Apple TV in educational and enterprise environments, so I don't think it's something that's just isolated to our network, either. But maybe others on here have had different experiences.
In general, I've found that few, if any, of Apple's products play nice in an enterprise environment.
Unless you already have a wide iPad deployment or are invested in iPads, I'd strongly suggest avoiding purchasing any Apple products. A similar solution to what you're looking for might be to use a Windows touch screen device (such as a Surface or Surface Pro) with a Miracast-enabled device.
Many TVs and especially projectors have incorporated this feature, and for those that don't there are relatively inexpensive dongles available from Microsoft that are intended to work well with Windows.
You can do this with an Android phone and a Microsoft wireless display adaptor, no WiFi access point needed.
http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-CG4-00003-Wireless-Display-Adapter/dp/B00J9C2JDG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453822613&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=microsoft+wireless+display+adapter
Similar to chrome cast but works a little better for presenting things or reading websites and documents. http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-CG4-00001-Wireless-Display-Adapter/dp/B00J9C2JDG It may be something that will work for you.
Oh you didn't want wires. Woops.
Your best bet is probably a Miracast device.
Such as this microsoft dongle
If you need wireless apple support, your easiest solution looks like an Apple TV. There are other ways, but they, like a chromecast, involve having people download shit.
EDIT: Or you could build a tiny computer to act as a server for something like Airserver
I have approved your comment this time, but be sure in the future to sanitize any retailer links, removing referral codes. They'll get caught in the spam filter and nobody will see your comment.
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-CG4-00001-Wireless-Display-Adapter/dp/B00J9C2JDG?tag=bom_tomsguide-20&amp;ascsubtag=site:tgus%7Ctid:147915926479298
becomes
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-CG4-00001-Wireless-Display-Adapter/dp/B00J9C2JDG
or simply
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J9C2JDG
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NH13K8S/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1422641587&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31HKeRjr5qL&amp;ref=plSrch
And
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00J9C2JDG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1422641464&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX200_QL40&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31UWcTUY5VL&amp;ref=plSrch
Sounds like using an extension cable from a 2.0 port might take care of it for you then. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11R3I/ref=twister_B00SIT9PRO?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Though I haven't used that so I can't say it will definitely work.
No. That is not possible. The keyboard will have to be connected to the PC itself. Depending on your router, the USB ports on the router can be used for sharing a flash drive, external HDD, or even a USB printer.
Why do you want to connect with the router though? Did you want to make the USB dongle for the keyboard further away from the other USB ports or connect from longer distance? If so, you could probably try using a USB extension cable such as this one, and maybe connect from further away a little by having the receiver a bit closer to you, but I'd recommend doing the other things like checking interference, trying another computer, and/or trying another keyboard first. You could try it if you want though.
>I would, but the charge cord is like freaking 2 inches. I can't keep it connected to any of my PC ports easily.
Yes, the length is ridiculously short. How about a USB cable extender?
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH11R3I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495844465&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+cable+extender
Need anything More specialized than this?
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH11R3I
I have the hotas with that cable from amazon. It works well
Glad to hear it! Hope you enjoy it, it's really cool! If you run into tracking issues with the controllers I definitely recommend these two things (and using them in a USB 2.0 slot if possible):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11R3I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11R3I
not that clunky i think, it's what i'm using
It's a 3B because I already had one.
This is the USB cable I used, right now it's holding itself in place but you could probably push it if you plug a cable in hard enough, so I might use black silicone to hold it
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NH11R3I?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title&amp;th=1
I've got this adapter - https://amazon.com//dp/B01F81EIBC/ and it works fine for dual monitors (has a dual-hdmi version which is about $20 more expensive). If you'll go for a more expensive dock, the HP Elite thunderbolt 3 docking station with a 60w adapter will be a very good dock - it has dual display ports, several USB 3s, audio jack, LAN, daisy-chain Thunderbolt 3 port and will charge your XPS when it's plugged in (don't be fooled by the proprietary-looking thunderbolt cable there, it's a dummy, any TB3 cable will charge your laptop with that dock, I've taken the cable apart, and tried others).
Thunderbolt 3 to dual displayport adapter, then displayport cable to each monitor.
Here's an example adapter that I've used in the past: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Thunderbolt-DisplayPort-Compatible-Supports/dp/B01F81EIBC
>Such as? For what price?
According to reviews "Plugable Thunderbolt 3 Dual DisplayPort Output Display Adapter for Thunderbolt 3 Systems" supports two 4K 60Hz monitors & 5K. Customers with XPS 13 (9350) have reported it working also: http://plugable.com/products/tbt3-dp2x/
I'm just interested in the screens, not Wi-Fi, ethernet, sound or other peripherals.
$91.39 on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Thunderbolt-DisplayPort-Supports-4096x2160/dp/B01F81EIBC/
Edit: There's also a StarTech.com version available via accessories.dell.com for $100: http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=us&amp;l=en&amp;s=bsd&amp;cs=111&amp;sku=A8933680
The UK versions of this seems to claim 60Hz too: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plugable-Thunderbolt-DisplayPort-Compatible-Supports/dp/B01F81EIBC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493114845&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=thunderbolt+3+to+dual+hdmi
I've ordered an XPS 9360 and am very concerned about being able to run dual displays using DisplayPort. Has anyone tried Plugable's Thunderbolt DisplayPort adapter? https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Thunderbolt-DisplayPort-supports-monitors/dp/B01F81EIBC
I'm not an expert on this, but maybe you could use something like this [Thunderbolt 3 Dual DisplayPort Output Display Adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Thunderbolt-DisplayPort-Compatible-Supports/dp/B01F81EIBC/) if you want to connect two external monitors.
Maybe there are other / better ways of doing it as well.
Hmm, none of those sound too easy.
I do own this: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Thunderbolt-DisplayPort-Compatible-Supports/dp/B01F81EIBC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
I use that to drive 2 2k displays at work. I'm wondering if I can test the available bandwidth by hooking it to 2 4k displays. Would that provide sufficient evidence?
I'll probably end up using this to drive dual 4Ks at 60HZ
I trashed my dock and bought an adapter for my displays and am using a USB 3.0 Network adapter (Dell branded) and bluetooth keyboard and mouse as my docking solution...
Here's the display adapter I'm using; works like a champ, didn't even need to install drivers:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F81EIBC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
EDIT: I'm on XPS 15 9550
Defenitely! Use one of those options:
The cable for WD15 can only support 4k @ 30Hz
Same with the HDMI also only 4k @ 30Hz
You would need to get a thunderbolt adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F81EIBC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Also the TB16 seems to be pretty good in terms of bugginess from what I have read at least.
In CH too. Getting it from the US personally. Don't like the EU layouts. If you buy from the EU stores you can send back to the EU stores. I think the central point is in the UK as far as I'm aware. If you bought it through the EU the laws require a 2 yr warranty. Not sure about CH laws regarding this though (or if it's part of the EU trade agreements). In the US changing HDD does not void warranty. I'd imagine it's the same here as long as you don't break anything in the process. I will be doing the same thing with the 960. For video I'm going to get this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F81EIBC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Hope you like dongles :-)
https://www.amazon.com/Apple-Thunderbolt-USB-C-Adapter/dp/B01MQ26QIY
https://www.amazon.com/elago-FireWire-Adapter-MacBook-Computers/dp/B003L4P872
PS. I still doubt Sierra has support for AMD graphics in 2019 MBP, and without accelerated graphics this can cause lag, even in audio?!
> thunderbolt 2 to 3 adaptor
This? https://www.amazon.com/Apple-Thunderbolt-USB-C-Adapter/dp/B01MQ26QIY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=thunderbolt+2+to+3+adapter&amp;qid=1569186039&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
I have solved this problem for myself. New iMac instead of MBP, but still using a USB-C port. It may seem a little intense, but this method works, and it works better than any cheapo Chinese VCR to USB dongle you can buy online.
Here's the hardware and software you'll need to get a good capture:
Hardware
If you're looking to just capture the VHS, ignore all the uber-elite perfectionista online. Get a working VCR, and clean the video heads if you feel confident enough to do so.
This is the box that your Mac will recognize as video playback hardware, and that MacOS will support for capturing without paying extra for software. Worth the price, I promise you. This is the investment part of the process, and is what enables your Mac to even see your VCR. This is the most important piece of hardware.
Don't be tempted into buying composite to HDMI/DVI/USB/USB-C/Thunderbolt. Plugging these into your VCR then into your Mac will result in failure -- your Mac won't detect that it's connected into a VCR. You'll be plugging this into your ADVC,
Capture Software
Hooking Everything Up
Capturing
Here's a video of the Capturing process in action: https://youtu.be/VFy-gAJ3wtk
Good luck!
Thunderbolt 2 Ethernet - https://www.amazon.com/Apple-Thunderbolt-Gigabit-Ethernet-MD463LL/dp/B011K4RKFW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540852371&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=apple+thunderbolt+ethernet&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=11jOHzBzFAL&amp;ref=plSrch
Thunderbolt 2 to 3 - https://www.amazon.com/Apple-MMEL2AM-Thunderbolt-USB-C-Adapter/dp/B01MQ26QIY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540852412&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=thunderbolt+2+to+thunderbolt+3&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=21TovN-97mL&amp;ref=plSrch
Just buy an adapter. Apple Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) to Thunderbolt 2 Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQ26QIY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8VeWCbSK4HMHQ
I just got the official Apple one from Amazon. Aparently some third party ones can cause problems.
https://www.amazon.com/Apple-Thunderbolt-USB-C-Adapter/dp/B01MQ26QIY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=thunderbolt+2+to+3&qid=1573417867&sr=8-3
I just looked at the LG monitor through their website and it does use Thunderbolt 2 which is older than the Thunderbolt 3 on your Razer Blade.
Thunderbolt's confusion stems from it's use of Mini DisplayPort for the second generation (Thunderbolt 2 monitors will not work over MDP) and it's use of USB-C for gen3 - phones can have USB-C but not thunderbolt, for example.
Thunderbolt 3->2 Adapter
USB passthrough should function fine.
Just bought this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MYUCWOK
Someone said it worked...
Yes, Thunderbolt 1 and 2 used Mini Displayport as it's physical Connector, Thunderbolt 3 switched to a superset of USBC.
Thunderbolt 1/2 to Thunderbolt 3 Adapter
Best way to think about Thunderbolt, It's a port that let's you access a PCIe 3.0 X4 Slot (at 22Gbps) inside your computer + 10Gbps USB Gen 2 + 8-12Gbps of Displayport bandwidth. (Yes it's way over 40Gbps, which is true, and yes the PCIe bandwidth is limited to 22Gbps, even though it's PCIe 3.0 X4 (Which is 32Gbps) you only get 22Gbps, although, it's possible that could change with future revisions, PCIe 4.0/5.0 CXL)
Thunderbolt = Access to high speed bandwidth, no other port can do that.
correct, that is why I am trying to figure out how to get my ssd drive to work with thunderbolt 2 port instead of the usb 3.0
I have these two parts now, and need the correct external enclosure
for the ssd to work, and I can't find one on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0TQPQB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQ26QIY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I don't use a hub, I use two USB-C adapters.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MYUCWOK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C316EIK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
yeah you're right. I had to change some of the exact products to work for Macbook.
So as of now, I'm running an Apple Thunderbolt 2 -- Thunderbolt 3 converter (because I have a 2015 macbook that has Thunderbolt 2). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQ26QIY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
That will go into a Thunderbolt 3 -- Dual HDMI adapter that is made to work with Macbook. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075T9ZQH4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Then there will be two HDMI cords going from that adapter into both monitors.
The HooToo will just connect with a USB C connection directly to the laptop so that I have easier USB and SD card connections. So I'm not having to put stuff in and take stuff out of the Macbook itself all the time.
Have you used this specific USB-C to display port adapter with another computer and actually gotten 4K/60Hz out of it?
To get 4K/60Hz from USB-C you need very specific adapters like this one:
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01MYUCWOK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-XFEDb2SMETSP
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Supports-Macbook-Chromebook/dp/B01MYUCWOK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495379426&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb-c+hdmi
https://www.amazon.com/Apple-USB-C-Digital-Multiport-Adapter/dp/B00VU2K10G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495379426&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=usb-c+hdmi if you want a "mini dock" that has charge pass-through.
https://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-USB-C-HDMI-Adapter-GX90M44577/dp/B01N24315M/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495379426&amp;sr=8-25&amp;keywords=usb-c+hdmi the official
Displayport? No, HDMI to USB-C. So you can use an HDMI cable and USB-C adapter (say, if you already have an HDMI cable):
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Portable-Supports-Chromebook/dp/B01MYUCWOK/ref=sr_1_3
Or the better option is just to use a USB-C to HDMI cable:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Convenient-Adapter-Samsung-MacBook/dp/B07DBZYM8C/ref=sr_1_4
You have this iMac, right? Same as mine. It connects via the USB-C (and the monitor has HDMI and some other stuff):
https://support.apple.com/kb/SP760?locale=en_US
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Supports-Macbook-Chromebook/dp/B01MYUCWOK/ref=pd_sim_147_26?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B01MYUCWOK&amp;pd_rd_r=Z2HM1RDZ54SZ4ND8K2XE&amp;pd_rd_w=xqsOz&amp;pd_rd_wg=ipe31&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=Z2HM1RDZ54SZ4ND8K2XE
I've been very pleased with this one.
Anker USB-C to HDMI Adapter, Supports 4K/60Hz, for The New MacBook/Chromebook Pixel and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYUCWOK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_p2xUBbF22PQT0
http://www.amazon.co.uk/female-Micro-male-Cable-Adapter-Black/dp/B005GI2VMG
get a mouse?
Do you mean this?
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH11R3I
Or, you know, just buy one of THESE THINGS for a dollar and not have to destroy your tablet.