(Part 2) Best headphone adapters according to redditors
We found 3,336 Reddit comments discussing the best headphone adapters. We ranked the 633 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
https://www.amazon.com/Dongle-Dangler-headphone-accessory-keychain/dp/B01MSYT8HH
Only partly true... will require (mild) expense, but the headphone / microphone parts can be split : http://www.amazon.com/Extrasensory-Devices-ESDHW011-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B006T65CXE
(All-in-all, for 95% of people, it's better as is, and even less confusing as you'll never plug headphones into the microphone port)
OP is using this case, with built-in fan and heatsinks. I have the same one for my retropie and it's great.
Amazon shows plenty of sub-$20 options, some of which do have a clip. This one shows up right away:
https://smile.amazon.com/Griffin-Bluetooth-Headphone-Adapter-Controls/dp/B01HRYAP1K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1487865689&sr=8-3&keywords=bluetooth+headphone+adapter
It's intended to hold on to a headphone dongle for your phone.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSYT8HH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VLxLAb7RQHVN5
what I do is use my shitty in ear headphones and with a Headphone Splitter and then put my over the ear headphones on over top of my in ears and it blows my mind every time [4]
If you are willing to have some wires connected, you can get one of these and then attach one each of these to each output
There's nothing special about an SB powerbank, just needs DC out and the pro3/4/sb connector (and enough capacity for your particular needs). I have the QI and it can charge my SP3 2.5 times and my SB 1+ times.
Qi-infinity8482 cable included.
Intocircuit 26000mAh cable separate.
Lizone® QC 35000mAh cable separate.
eta /u/ygthb 's great suggestion:
MAXOAK 50000mAh 6 Port(5/12/20v)
I do use both a DAC and an Amp.
I use the Magni amp, and the Modi DAC by Schiit.
Magni: http://www.amazon.com/Schiit-SCH-07-Magni-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00CICPMA6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395407907&sr=8-1&keywords=schiit
Modi: http://www.amazon.com/Modi-USB-Digital-Analog-Convertor/dp/B00CICPN0K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395407907&sr=8-2&keywords=schiit
It is actually a Smraza. I like it so far, easy to assemble, stays cool and looks okay. I've heard the Flirc recommended though.
> https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Speaker-and-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00009WQSR/ref=pd_sim_23_8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VSXKK16GPHXJMY3HG5MK
DO NOT USE THIS TO COMBINE SIGNALS
Splitter cable are made to SPLIT signals (one input into two inputs) NOT to combine 2 outputs into one input!! doing this can actually damage the output stages of the connect outputs as they will try to drive each other!
for reference:
http://www.rane.com/note109.html
You could use a Y splitter. Single male 1/8" jack to dual female. Make sure to get the stereo version and not the one that splits out into dual mono. Found at any Radio Shack. Except they don't exist anymore, Amazon? Then you plug that into your computer, headphones on one side, speakers on the other. Skip the jacks on the speakers altogether. The output from the speakers would be for a headphone amp, or another amplified source. I don't think they carry enough signal to be useful straight to phones.
Edit: the link. And some more words
Checkout the iOttie Easy Flex 2. I was in the same shoe as you looking for something to be able to easily record (wanted to do time-lapse) and still be sleak.
This thing is simply awesome. It's such a small footprint, has great positioning options. As for the speed of placing your device and removing it? Holy crap, I tell my friends about it before they see it and they're still shocked when they finally see in person how stupid simple it is.
And yes, it works with the official dock (and can easily handle a whole range of devices).
Few ways you can go about it. If you have a USB audio interface, you can cop one of these and use that with your phone. There is also a version for 10 bucks less that doesn't include the lightning-thru port for simultaneous charging of your phone. I don't recommend that one, as any USB device grabbing power from your phone will probably drain the shit out of it.
You can also try the Sonic Port VX Audio Interface for iOS devices (it also includes a usb cable for use with standard USB ports). I personally love it as a small solution to on the go recording. It has a couple outputs, one for headphones and a dual 1/4" output for speakers or whatever. It also has a switch that enables direct monitoring, so you can listen directly without having to go through whatever app you're using to record. I like to use voice memos for its simplicity, as I was using GarageBand prior to having a direct monitor option, monitoring through the app, and hated setting it up each time.
Before you buy anything, try to think long and hard about the features you need to have, and which you can do without, because the range of prices for each iPhone recording solution is pretty wide, and the results varying. I would avoid going the line-in route, but that's also an option. Poor solution for recording the Volcas, even when it does work, simply for the fact that you cannot monitor while you record.
Things to consider: direct monitoring, recording quality, line-level input, multiple outputs, stereo recording, option to charge phone simultaneously. Good luck!!
if you plug it into the headphones, you'll hear audio but your mic will not work.
i think if you plug it into the mic port, your mic will work but no audio.
what you need is an adapter, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-Microphone-Headphone-Connector-Headset-30CM/dp/B0756CK9HG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524414338&sr=8-3&keywords=4+pole+to+3+pole+adapter
not necessarily that one, thats just the first one on amazon.
Dongle Dangler - iPhone 7 headphone dongle accessory keychain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSYT8HH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_S3ZgAbZ05YPZM
Amazon literally has dozens. If you want to hear opinions on which are best though I sadly can’t help as I don’t use one but think it’s a clever idea
https://www.amazon.com/Dongle-Dangler-headphone-accessory-keychain/dp/B01MSYT8HH
Found this on Amazon.
https://www.bolleraven.com/
https://smile.amazon.com/Wireless-Bluetooth-Adapter-QuietComfort-Headphones/dp/B01MTQGY69/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1541515267&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=bose+bluetooth+adapter&psc=1&smid=A3JIA99F8YWL7D
​
​
Yeah just buy an adapter. If you aren't using VOIP on your computer you're over complicating your situation.
Many of them come with dual connector or a way to switch to it - I believe some Razer ones do right now and I know my Astro A40's have a detachable portion for switching between the separate or combined connection.
Also I would assume things like this (although this one is bulky I'm sure there are smaller ones) would work:
http://www.amazon.com/Extrasensory-Devices-ESDHW011-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B006T65CXE
OR not buying them at all and just writing the same information on these..
That's just extension cable. OP is looking for something like this that will combine separate stereo out and mic ports into combo port like you have on mobile phones and newer laptops.
This controller:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Microsoft-Xbox-One-Bluetooth-Wireless-Controller-Black-6CL00005/111779721
This driver:
https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/3vuvg8/manually_download_xbox_one_controller_driver_for/cxqw6mz/
This USB Bluetooth:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005Z5HT2M/
I installed the driver and then ran the Windows 7 Bluetooth pairing thing and it paired up. Tested it in CEMU and it worked fine.
There are a variety of 26000mAh packs for around $60 that include the necessary output and adapters for charging laptops or just about anything. Just one example here.
So they want me to pay almost three times more ($200 total if you include the $50 power adapter, which is something you'll want if you use it regularly) for something that has half the capacity... the only selling point here is really the USB-C, and I still don't own a device that actually has USB-C.
Just seems like another overpriced offering from Razer, I'll pass.
try this... and use with these...
My wife loves me but not HD650 love :X
and would something like this work Magni Headphone Amplifier + Modi USB Digital/Analog Convertor?
What's your budget? I use a Schiit SYS but it's kinda pricey, and it has RCA jacks, so you'd need adapters.
Quick amazon search brings up this. Seems decent enough quality
EDIT: And another.
TBH, if you have any familiarity at all with soldering you could make your own for less than 10 bucks probably.
you need to get a line level converter. There was a great article on DJ tech tools about this awhile back. I've been using one connected to the Booth Out on my DDJ-RX, this gives me some gain control. I then run my booth monitors and the mains off the 2 main outputs.
Here's the line level converter I've been using to run audio into my iphone.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAW85ZG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You want something like this..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D82XXGO/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1518145017&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=3.5mm+to+1%2F4&dpPl=1&dpID=41jqoWgXcXL&ref=plSrch
Get a Griffin iTrip Clip https://www.amazon.com/Griffin-Bluetooth-Headphone-Adapter-Controls/dp/B01HRYAP1K
Or a Griffin Rockstar.
https://www.apple.com/shop/product/HLJV2ZM/A/belkin-35-mm-audio-charge-rockstar
Neither are free solutions, but they are solutions.
No.
You need a splitter like this one
(Note, I have no idea if that's a good product, just linked as an example)
Of the three case/fan/heatsink combos I’ve tried (all under $20 usd), this one works best but the fan is surprisingly loud:
For a quieter one that will still keep you from throttling while mining try this:
My google-fu is been on point today! AND it's friday!
https://www.amazon.com/Dongle-Dangler-headphone-accessory-keychain/dp/B01MSYT8HH/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7WFCHEJR4D8SCQA5RHJD
You can add a ~$90 adapter to the 25 to make them wireless.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01MTQGY69/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510015202&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Qc25+wireless
If your PC has two separate ports for a mic and speaker, you’ll need to get an adapter to plug them in.
Earbuds that have a mic and speaker on them have 4 poles on the connector (have a look at the plug, there’s 3 black bands separating 4 metal strips) while computer ports typically have 3-pole ports. That’s why when you plug in your headphones to the output port, your mic won’t work (because the 4th pole for the mic isn’t connected to anything), and why it also won’t work when it’s plugged in to the input port (again, the mic pole isn’t actually connected to anything.
The reason it’s picking up sound from the earpiece itself is because speakers can act as microphones by inducing a current along the wire when you speak at it. As you’ve noticed, it’s pretty poor at doing so though.
What you’re looking for is something like this
There are cheaper alternatives everywhere so have a look :)
[](Dongle Dangler - 3.5mm headphone adapter keychain for iPhone 7, iPhone 7 Plus, iPhone 8, iPhone X, Google Pixel 2 and more. (Chrome 1-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSYT8HH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_or3KAbRR3JEY8)
I just purchased this keychain to attach a lightning to 3.5mm adapter to my keys. I can't comment on the quality myself as it hasn't arrived yet but it has 5 stars over 31 reviews on amazon. I also purchased 10 lightning to 3.5mm adapters for a dollar a piece on AliExpress.
I have a pair and would advise against them. They have too many technical issues and are just not that impressive. Additionally, because they do not go in your ear they block very little outside noise.
I would advise using the Bose Quiet Comfort 35 I or II instead. Disclaimer: These are traditional over the head headphones. These are the headphones I switched too and have to say the sound quality is improved and the noise cancellation is incredible. They also work well for phone calls. I switched to these and the Pixel Buds have sat in my bag. The main difference between the I and II is that the II added a Google/Alexa assistant button.
​
If she wants smaller headphones/earbuds then consider something like the Apple Airpods. My fiance (who has an iPhone) loves them.
​
On a related note, I would advise purchasing her a dongle keychain as seen here on Amazon. It helps a lot making sure you do not lose the dongle. I am not recommending this specific one but providing it as an example. https://smile.amazon.com/Dongle-Dangler-Keychain-Accessory-Compatible/dp/B01MSYT8HH/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543535129&sr=8-3&keywords=google+pixel+dongle+keychain
It looks like that AV Mike-1 velcro and then zip ties to your headphones, not exactly the best for dual use of the headphones. I'd pony up the extra $75 to get one from a reliable company and a known quantity. In the grand scheme of aviation, $75 isn't a whole lot of money.
On another note the QC35 doesn't have user replaceable batteries so if they die in flight you lose all ANR with no way of getting it back until you charge them. UflyMike doesn't have a model for the 35s
My personal suggestion would be to pick up a cheap set of QC25s, a UflyMike or NflightMic mic and a bluetooth attachment for the QC25 if you really want wireless capabilities. You'll be out less money than using QC35 and have a headset that can accept AA batteries.
Bluetooth to 3.5mm out adapters are all over. You can go from expensive custom ones for particular models of headphones to super cheap like the little Vivtar adapter I found at Target for $10. The thing is so cheap there isn't even a product page for it.
This 3rd party adapter adds Bluetooth connectivity to the 25s
A bit easier than your suggestion :P
you need something like this, I'd assume.
https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-Microphone-Headphone-Connector-Headset-30CM/dp/B0756CK9HG
but a bt dongle probably does more or less the same, I'd imagine
I have this for your exact situation.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009WQSR?ie=UTF8&force-full-site=1&ref_=aw_bottom_links
Probably not sound very good but you can go real cheap and get one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Audio-Splitter-Speaker-Headphones/dp/B005GNQNHU
I use: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005Z5HT2M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 on my laptop & http://www.amazon.com/Medialink-USB-Bluetooth-Adapter-Technology/dp/B004LNXO28/ref=pd_cp_pc_2 on my Desktop pretty much plug in play om both
(Works great on Windows & Linux)
Also you will wanna grab this http://forums.pcsx2.net/Thread-DS4-To-XInput-Wrapper (Windows Only) or https://github.com/chrippa/ds4drv (Linux only) , gives you more control over the controller and enables the touchpad
https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488320683&sr=8-1&keywords=edimax+wifi+adapter
https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTD-300-Bluetooth-Energy-adapter/dp/B005Z5HT2M/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1488320707&sr=8-6&keywords=kinivo+bluetooth
Super expensive.
> Why not use mic combo jack one and main 1 for the Skype audio since Skype actually would see that?
> Sadly, I didn't realize that the headphone jack served double-duty as a Mic jack until I read this. 😆 Then I shouldn't need the LineLink cable at all, right? Is this the splitter I need?
I think I may have misled you but I'm too groggy to track the path and be sure I understand. I'm just talking Mic 1 (a combo jack unrelated to the headphones... I think, will revisit tomorrow).
> HOLY CRAP! Just discovered newers Macs can do S/PDIF via the headphone jack with a Mini-TOSLINK to TOSLINK cable!
You have no idea how much time I've sunk down this and similar rabbit holes getting an all digital path working. Suddenly you have clock issues else you get horrible clicking and sample rate issues and ...
But if you do get it working you get a noise free set of stereo ins/outs on the Scarlett... And the UCA202 I love so much has a TOUSLING out so a couple converters later you can approximate the benefits.
Really, this was a White Whale for me last year, Ishmael.
You linked to a TRRS splitter but don't see it now. There are two standards and one won't work. This will:
https://www.amazon.com/Extrasensory-Devices-ESDHW011-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B006T65CXE/
As will the Tascam iXZ and iRigs. This will work as well actually:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-C3M-110-Camcorder-Cable-Feet/dp/B00FC4Z5L8/
but the yellow is right channel and red is mic in. All these IOS and MAC TRRS adapters are wired
Tip: Left
Ring 1: Right
Ring 2: Ground
Sleeve: Mic
which has Ring 2 and Sleeve reversed for Android devices and a lot of the converter cables are wired for the Android/Nokia standard.
!
I have this iOttie, which I like because it is super compact and out of the way when not in use.
I bought an iOttie2 after getting turned off by the expensive cost of the ProClip. SUPER HAPPY with my purchase! Spring loaded holder works great and has never failed. super strong suction cup, has never fallen off my dash (not windshield) even in more spirited driving.
HIGHLY RECOMMEND!
http://www.amazon.com/iOttie-HLCRIO104-Windshield-Dashboard-Holder/dp/B0099RGRT8/ref=sr_1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1373650406&sr=1-1&keywords=iottie+2
In my opinion, anyone who considered getting a power cover to extend their battery should considers these two following items:
http://www.amazon.com/GooDGo-Premium-Charger-Adapter-Microsoft/dp/B00HF5NUFA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398796509&sr=8-2&keywords=surface+power+cable
http://www.amazon.com/Intocircuit%C2%AE-PC26000-Compatible-Thunderbolt-Connectors/dp/B00BB5VQCE/ref=pd_cp_pc_1
These two should give you another 8+ hours easily, plus it can be charged much more freely. Power cover will only charge when attached to the surface, and will only do so after Surface is fully charged, while the external battery can charge at the same time with the surface. Plus the battery will works with other devices you might have on a pinch. It is also significantly cheaper.
The power cover come with a keyboard, though. Which is nice. But if you don't like the keyboard there are alternative out there where you won't get stuck with it just for the battery.
Keep in mind the battery is fairly big and heavy, but there are tons other alternatives out there that provides DC 12V.
You'll need a high capacity battery pack designed for laptops. I use this one, which seems to be no longer available, but maybe it will help you find something else:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BB5VQCE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Plus you'll need a compatible cable with a Surface connector. I use this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LRH99Y8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hope this helps.
I definitely found it hard, especially at first, and I still find it hard sometimes. I struggled at first because I tried running. No matter how much I actually ran I still hated it, and I hate it to this day. What worked for me was finding forms of exercise that weren't so uncomfortable to me. I found I really liked biking. I'm sitting down so it's barely like exercise and riding around town gives my mind time to wander (when I run I can only concentrate on how much it sucks to be running). The hardest part for me is waking up since it's the only time I can exercise and I take seroquel to sleep which leaves me hung over. I actually bought these NFC tags and the app Puzzle Alarm Clock and in the morning my alarm will not stop going off until I physically bring my phone to the kitchen and scan the tag I put next to my espresso machine. Then I make an espresso, splash some water on my face, and do some stretches to wake up.
Once you're used to waking up and working out for a couple weeks it gets a lot easier. I'd recommend trying to make an extreme effort to work out for two weeks and not let anything get in your way, and after that it will be easier. It also helps a great deal to have a workout buddy, since you'll disappoint them if you fail to show up.
>Bellari VP130
The Bellari tube preamp is quite hit or miss — it essentially applies RIAA equalisation using solid state technology, then simply buffers the signal through a vacuum tube to give a warmer sound. This is similar to taking a digital photo and applying an Instagram filter, as opposed taking it with a film camera in the first place.
At this price you would be better off going with solid state (NAD and Cambridge Audio make great preamps in your price range), either new or second-hand. You will definitely be rewarded by the accuracy — in any case, you already have a vacuum tube link in the chain; any more and you risk unwanted distortion.
Aside from this, I don't see why a separate phono is needed with an integrated amplifier like the one that you have chosen?
>Maverick Audio D2 DAC
The Schiit Modi costs half the price and is without a doubt just as good, if not better.
>some kind of RCA switch for switching between the DAC and the turntable preamp
While RCA switchers are widely available and cheap, this configuration would not be possible given that the Maverick A1
only accepts phono input. What you need is either___
edit: woops, I didn't see the line-in socket on the Maverick A1. Still think the receiver is a better option though.
Fiio makes some pretty nice budget and portable amps.
What are you looking for? For a introductory tube amp, I would reccomend the Vali + Modi amp/dac combo. They are made by Schiit, and their products are really good for their price.
I use a pair of Beyerdynamic DT-990 Pro 250ohms coupled with Schiit Magni and Modi for my headphone amp and digital/analog converter combo. The magni/modi combo is great for flat sound i.e doesn't add any extra sound qualities in the conversion or amplification (pro for some, con for others) and they power the 250ohm version of the DT-990 pros wonderfully. The DT-990 pros themselves are great metal headphones in my opinion. First off, they are the most comfortable headphones I've ever put on, I've worn them 8 hours a day for the past 2 months and sometimes forget they're even on. The soft velour earpads are fucking superb. Sound quality wise they're amazing as well. Massive soundstage, when I got them one of the first songs I played was Inside the Particle Storm- Dark Tranquillity and I was motherfucking blown away, and it doesn't hurt that they're good for FPS gaming as well. Amazing, punchy bass, but not overdone at all like you find in some DJ headphones. Good mids and nice highs. Some people find the treble on the dt-990s to be fatiguing but I've yet to come across that and even if I did I could get rid of the problem through the equalizer.
Have you looked into Shiit amplifiers? You can get an amp and a USB DAC, which works plug-and-play with the PS4, for like $200.
If this sounds like an option, definitely look around at other amp/DAC combos. Just be ready to overthink it until your head explodes...
That's the plan! I can't really record anything right now tbh, but I ordered a "Headset Buddy" from Amazon after seeing people talk about it here and on YouTube, which will enable me to record. Other than that I've just got an aux cable, a headphone splitter to listen + record at the same time, and the 3.5mm to iPhone thingy.
I use this adapter which converts line level signal to be readable by the mic input on your iPhone
audio cable adapter
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-6-35mm-Female-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B01D82XXGO/ref=sr_1_3
>a drum machine
Whenever you have questions like this, it immensely helps to tell us what drum machine you're using, and even what hi-fi set.
First, let's learn a bit about the plugs you may encounter
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RCA_connector , also called "cinch plugs" are the ones that are most likely on the back of your hi-fi set somewhere. These come in pairs; red and white for right and left respectively. The ones you can use are called "aux" - short for "auxiliary", i.e. from some device that is not part of your hi-fi set. Do not use the ones called "phono" - those are intended for turntables and expect a certain type of signal that adheres to https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RIAA_equalization .
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phone_connector_(audio) , also called jack plugs, come in several sizes but only two are commonly used: the 6.35mm (1/4") and the 3.5mm minijack. Since most (professional) music equipment uses the 6.35 stuff, you can substitute "jack" with 6.35mm and "minijack" with the 3.5mm one. The 2.5mm is not that common and used for headphones.
So one interesting thing about the jack is how many black plastic rings you see. When you only see one close to the end, it's a mono cable; it only has two wires. When you see two - one at the end, one in the middle - you have a stereo cable. Earbuds for phones may even have three, and that's so that they can have a microphone and a stereo set of headphones all crammed in the same wire, but with most professional music equipment, you'll only encounter the TS/TRS.
Here's where it may get a bit confusing: TS cables are always mono, and are unbalanced cables.
TRS cables can be used as unbalanced stereo cables, or as balanced mono cables. The whole balanced/unbalanced stuff is a can of worms on its own that I'm not going to talk about here, so for now when I talk about "stereo" cables, I'm talking about TRS - so two black plastic rings instead of one.
The RCA plugs are generally only available in a mono variant, so you usually don't need to worry about that.
What hi-fi set do you have?
Let's start with the hi-fi set. If you have an aux input, and if it has such a red and white RCA input, you need a cable that ends in that. If your aux input is a 3.5mm input, you need a cable that ends in a stereo minijack.
What drum machine do you have?
OK. Let's assume you have an Arturia Drumbrute.
https://imgur.com/Xx4cOh7
As you see it's got lots of outputs. Which ones should be hooked up and how?
At the utmost right, there are headphone outputs. On the Drumbrute, you can plug in either a TRS (stereo) or a TRS minijack; both will send out the same signal, and you have a nice volume control especially for the headphones. This is offered as a convenience; they could've offered a single TRS output and request you to buy an adapter like https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01D82XXGO/ (the link is purely for illustration purposes, not an endorsed product). This allows you to connect studio headphones (with a 6.35mm jack) or earbuds (with a minijack).
Headphone outputs are generally not suitable for anything but headphones.
Headphones are basically portable passive speakers; they need an amplified signal. While it won't break your hi-fi, it might cause the signal to be distorted. The reason for these to be separate is when you're using it live, you can listen to the signal in your headphones directly and send the rest to whoever's operating the mixing desk, so that you have your own volume control and all; basically a monitoring output.
Then there's the "Mix output". It's a single 6.35mm jack plug. There's a good chance (always double-check in the manual) that this is a stereo output. You can buy cables that go from stereo jack to a pair of RCA; in several cases these are only offered as stereo minijack, but with those adapters I've linked above, you can buy such a cable, an adapter, plug it in the mix out, and plug the other end in the hi-fi, and you're good to go.
The rest of the outputs are for the individual instruments. At that point, you should be looking for a mixer anyway.
What if you have a different drum machine?
Let's say you have a Roland TR8S:
https://imgur.com/7zPG2aN
As said, better to not use headphone outputs; but now the mix out is not a single output, but two. What can you do? Well - there are cables that have RCA on one end and a mono jack on the other. Those also come in glued-together versions so you only need one cable with two plugs on either end. If you have a hi-fi where the aux is just a stereo minijack, don't worry; you can get a stereo minijack to RCA cable, and RCA to mono jack adapters.
It is quite astonishing how many types of adapters there are; while it's better to have the cable just as one piece without adapters, one adapter is not going to degrade your signal. It's mostly a mechanical thing where a chain of adapters barely holding together only requires a yank in the wrong direction to break your equipment in a really bad way.
My drum machine is an SP404A. It has RCA plugs. Can I hook that up directly?
Yes - because it says "line out".
So that drum machine is for hiphop and I see people also using turntables and I'd like to do that too. What about turntables?
See the bit about using the phono input. If your hi-fi only has an aux input, get a cheap phono preamp; it turns a turntable signal into something usable for the aux inputs.
What if you want to hook up more instruments?
If you don't want to involve a computer, you need to get yourself a mixer. Lots of devices can do mixing; there are digital multitrack recorders that operate both as mixers and as recording devices. Mixing is essentially just a certain piece of functionality of adding signals together.
If you do want to involve a computer, you can get a mixer and run the stereo signal of that into a small 2x2 audio interface (left and right are mono signals, and something that offers a stereo input - either a separate left + right or as one plug - counts as a "2"), or you can get yourself a big audio interface that is effectively a digital mixer minus all the sliders and knobs, and run it in there.
So I've looked at some mixers and there's a new type of input on that mixer that you haven't described. It looks like a big circle with 3 holes. What's that?
Glad you asked! Those are XLR inputs. Instead of using plastic rings that may break off (the worst nightmare for anyone with a studio), they put 'm on 3 separate pins. These also come in a version that allows both XLR and jack plugs to be connected.
In general, those are used for microphones or for expensive gear that operates at higher voltage levels. Again, cables exist that can go from XLR to jack, but be careful with that; for some microphones, there's a 48 volt switch that works fine for certain types of microphones, but it'll fry others.
Do mixers accept turntable signals?
Generally not. Get a cheap phono preamp and follow the rest of the instructions.
Hope this helps! Don't blow up stuff, ask if you're not sure, and tell us what you've got.
Any 4-pole to dual 3-pole splitter should work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I3A47KM/
PC's don't use one port for input and output, as you just displayed.
If your headset only has one plug rather than separate ones for audio and mic, then you will need to get a splitter like this
As best I can tell, both of these headsets use a single plug for both sound and mic, correct? That won't work on PC without the proper adapter.
You need one of these.
You'll need a splitter
https://www.amazon.com/Smraza-Starter-Raspberry-layers-Heatsinks/dp/B01LWURJMI/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KKJYGAYH2SGC3EF437AR
no you need this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQZ2023/ref=asc_df_B01MQZ20235377818/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B01MQZ2023&linkCode=df0&hvadid=226131567976&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5790372779262372629&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9002003&hvtargid=pla-382920953199
They have a green male to 2 green female splitter if that’s what you mean.
They have ones that have red and green female jacks to combine audio and microphone into one black male end.
They have ones that have red and green male ends that split a black female jack.
Headphone splitter
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Speaker-and-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00009WQSR
Not sure why you'd use a quality mic on Xbox. But there you go
You can also use one of these headphone splitter and use BOTH MIDI adapters to sequence your Volca FM on ch. 1 and another on Ch. 2. I use this trick a lot to with the Keys and Bass. I like the sound from the Volcas more than the sound from the Circuit.
I was wondering if this would be all I need
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Speaker-and-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00009WQSR/ref=pd_cp_e_2
Is the thing you linked even um...the right kind of splitter you would want? Wouldn't it be more like this. The one you showed only takes one headphone but idk if I am just missing something stupid.
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Speaker-and-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00009WQSR
There are also passive mixers.
https://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX42-Stereo-Mini-Mixer/dp/B00102ZN40
EDIT: Technically, you can use one of these, as well, but I'm not sure what that would mean for the output... If it would still be stereo from each unit, or not. I think it would also mess with the volumes.
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Speaker-and-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00009WQSR/ref=pd_sim_23_8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VSXKK16GPHXJMY3HG5MK
Or combine 5 into one:
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-RockStar-5-Jack-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00904WS2K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503136561&sr=8-2&keywords=belkin+rockstar
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Speaker-and-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00009WQSR
Sure.
Most PCs have an 8mm (headphone jack) input for a microphone. By using a standard y-splitter cable available at many stores (wal-mart, Radio Shack, Best Buy) you can plug in more than one device to send sound to that jack.
You can put any audio files you'd like to play on your phone (a soundboard in this case is simply an app that let's you put several buttons on screen to play certain audio files easily, not an actual hardware mixer - you phone's media player will work fine, but may not be as intuitive for this use) and use a double-male 8mm cable to plug your phone into the splitter alongside your microphone. Then the phone audio and your mic will go through without needing any special software or keystrokes.
You can't play audio through headphones and speakers at the same time - however, it is possible to use a headphone splitter so you can both use headphones with the same port.
Get this. Connect the 3.5 mm cable from your monitor to one end of the female end. Do the same with a line running from the PC to the other open end. You should be good to go.
It sounds like you need an aux splitter like this.
I can tell you that almost every attempt I've ever tried at doing something like that has failed miserably. You'll be surprised how obvious just a few ms of delay in a sound is to you.
Someone may have a solution, but I've always found the end result of using one source and splitting it to be much easier than trying to produce multiple outputs. If you're already using a 3.5mm jack, just use one of these.
When you say "connected at the same time", I assume you just want them plugged in at the same time but not actually playing music from both at the same time?
Simplest option is to get a headphone splitter (https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Audio-Splitter-Speaker-Headphones/dp/B005GNQNHU) and plug your CCA and PC into the female ports and the the male jack into your hi-fi.
I had this setup for years when I used my Xbox and PC on the same set of speakers.
Alternatively you could use a 2 way AV switch. This requires you to push a button to select which source you want to send to the outline of the switch.
A regular analog Y audio splitter is the simplest.
If you want it done digitally, it is more trouble than its worth.
Maybe you could use a y-splitter like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GNQNHU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iIdNBbG96W9TB
Most audio drivers will automatically stop other ports from working if one port is outputting audio.
If you just need the same audio outputted at the same time jut get a $5 adapter like this or this
In-home streaming's demands are far from onerous. I'm able to stream from my gaming PC to my Intel Atom-based tablet at 60 fps over wifi without a hitch.
This will more than do the job:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD 2650 1.45Ghz Dual-Core Processor | $31.00 @ Amazon
Motherboard | *MSI AM1I Mini ITX AM1 Motherboard | $36.98 @ Newegg
Memory | *G.Skill AEGIS 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $38.70 @ Newegg
Storage | A-Data Premier Pro SP600 64GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $44.99 @ Amazon
Case | Cooler Master Elite 110 Mini ITX Tower Case | $39.99 @ Micro Center
Power Supply | EVGA 430W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply | $19.99 @ NCIX US
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $211.65
| *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-08-16 10:08 EDT-0400 |
For a Bluetooth dongle, try this dongle from Knivio ($8) -- it rates highly on Amazon.
There are these from intel that combines the two. Alernatively you could get the bluetooth, and wifi adapters seperately.
This doesn't really answer your question, but I bought this
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTD-300-Bluetooth-3-0-adapter/dp/B005Z5HT2M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1409122715&sr=8-3&keywords=bluetooth+usb
To use Wii Motes on the dolphin emulator (Gamecube/Wii emulator). It works really well and was a simple plug and play for me.
According to this review, it works fine with PS3 controllers.
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTD-300-Bluetooth-3-0-adapter/product-reviews/B005Z5HT2M?pageNumber=2
"
This was a great purchase for connecting my Wii and PlayStation 3 Dualshock controllers. I used Touchmote drivers for my Wii remote to use as a gyro mouse and it connected easily. Using the remote for 3 hours had no problems with the connection dropping.
I used the Xinput DS3 Wrapper for my Dualshock and played from a distance of about 15 ft."
They make wireless trackpads now. With a bluetooth dongle you can connect it to your PC. You'll need to set up the drivers on this page, though.
Cheap "Blootooth" USB dongle
Flagrama is right, but what kind of computer do you have? If it's a laptop, it probably has bluetooth built in already. If not, bt adapters like this one are under $10. You can also buy this handy thing that will make the pairing process easy and treat the Pro Controller like a 360 controller, so you can instantly use it to play tons of PC games (hundreds of Steam games, for example).
I was coming here to ask the same question. I'm hoping something as simple and cheap as this but would it be necessary to get the 4.0 version instead?
That is specifically designed to allow two audio-out devices. You need something designed for dual in/out splitting, like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Extrasensory-Devices-ESDHW011-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B006T65CXE
Just search for "headphone and microphone splitter."
The headphone jack will take an iPhone headset, and both the mic and headphone part works.
You can get adapters that split these two into two separate jacks.
http://www.amazon.com/Extrasensory-Devices-ESDHW011-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B006T65CXE
Something like this.
The iPhone has a TRRS connector (3 ring mini-jack) that combines both the headphone and microphone jack into one. The way to separate them is throught a headphone/microphone splitter. Since you're using the rode videomic, the one I highly recommend is the Rockit. It's only $12.95 on amazon and I prefer the design of this one prepared to the others. You can always DIY it too, if you don't want to wait for shipping with plenty of instructions on the internet.
With this splitter, you could use any mic & headphones you want
I've used this guy for about a year now (previously 5 and now 6+). I have a smaller car and no room on my dash so it actually mounts on the right side of the console sideways below the glove compartment. It never gets knocked off and it holds the 6+ with ease.
http://www.amazon.com/iOttie-HLCRIO104-Windshield-Dashboard-Holder/dp/B0099RGRT8/ref=sr_1_5?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1412957131&sr=1-5&keywords=iottie
Have you tried this?
I use the intrude easy flex 2. It's been a great mount but if you do mount it to the dash, you can leave a shiny ring where it used to be. In my miata I mounted it on my windshield.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0099RGRT8/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1407839050&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
There's also an easy flex 3 but I haven't tried that one out.
http://amzn.com/B0099RGRT8
I've been wondering about this issue myself. I did a quick google search and one thread on XDA said it might drain the battery a tad bit faster, but nothing too noticeable.
The big issue, however, is that once the screen goes off the NFC radio turns off. This means that if you turn your screen on and unlock your phone again, the tag will be read again. This might cause some issues depending on how you set up your NFC tags.
Also, fyi, there is an updated iOttie here. It doesn't have the bottom feet though if that's an issue for you.
I got this with an appropriate changing cable (they should come up on this page, but the company is XIEMIN) Intocircuit 26000mAh High Capacity Battery, link is https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BB5VQCE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6DsByb6RZR2YP the battery works great and I'm able to charge my SP3 more than once with it. I like it a lot
It's just a PoE injector, but yup.
On the bottom is a battery pack (it's a different brand but that's the same product as far as I can tell) set to 12v, plugged into the PoE injector and wired to a 24v step-up module for the phone, then into the phone itself.
It works very well, and it'll charge off of any regular 12v wall wart. I run a separate 2.4 GHz single-width channel on wireless N for VoIP stuff only. Mostly bridges for spots in that office where it was impractical to run wiring.
This particular phone was set up because... well... there isn't really a wireless version of this type of device, but a wireless Polycom was exactly what he wanted, so I hit up Amazon and said I could probably do it for a few hundred bucks.
I'm used to hacks like this being annoying as all hell and rife with problems. Turns out this thing works splendidly. I ended up building two or three of them. At which point I got sick of it, but hey, it is pretty fun to walk around with it and put people on hold :D
Hey, I have this battery: http://www.amazon.com/Energizer-XP18000AB-Universal-External-Smartphones/dp/B00CFHBV5E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396395743&sr=8-1&keywords=XP18000a
However, I bought it when it was a lot cheaper. Not sure why it's so high right now. You might be better served if you looked at Intocircuit 26000mAh now, since it's cheaper by 100$
http://www.amazon.com/Intocircuit%C2%AE-PC26000-Compatible-Thunderbolt-Connectors/dp/B00BB5VQCE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396395817&sr=8-1&keywords=intocircuit+26000
Though you will still need to get a attachment cable from mikeguyver. Or you can just buy the INtocircuit battery and cable set directly from him. http://www.mikegyver.com/Surface-Battery-Car/
I had this discussion here with a few folks yesterday, but there is at least one type-A battery pack out there which will deliver 2A to the switch, and probably more, though they seem to be non-compliant devices and/or knock-offs of Apple's USB charging "standard." I have this one and it does charge at a full 10w. I am pretty sure one of my other packs does as well. I need to grab a USB power meter to test it, but I am pretty sure it was charging while I was playing the one time I tried it. It seems like if you don't want to go with USB-C or USB-PD, you'll want to look for something which claims to charge Apple devices. For whatever reason, the switch seems to be happy to negotiate a full 10w delivery with the Apple standard.
Get these two things:
Intocircuit Power Castle
Surface Pro Power Cable
I haven't done incredibly thorough tests with it or anything, but it was able to fully refill my Surface Pro at least once during a long trip.
Cheaper than a Power Cover, more versatile since you can use it for other things, and provides more of a charge.
the Tab 3 is a relatively low-end tablet, and from what I hear, a little slow. but free tablet with LTE, so why not? 2 years of data isn't really a bad thing to be locked into. I think it's $10 a month for a gigabyte, and that should be all you need when you also have a phone. in fact, you might be able to share your data between the two devices. if you like it, but the Tab 3 is too slow for you, going for an LTE Nexus 7 down the line is an option for that data sim. a Tab 3 should be perfectly fine as a first tablet, and with the phone to show you what a faster, better device is capable of, you likely won't have any complaints.
what would you like app suggestions for? I've got a 7 by 7 grid on my tablet, and one page is full of games. I've got a page for SuperUser stuff, if there's an easy root method for your phone, I'd definitely look into that if you're comfortable with it. then there are my other miscellaneous apps. I have BaconReader which I personally hardly use. I prefer using Reddit from my computer. I have Dropbox which I mainly use to transfer files between my Android devices and my computer. pictures, APKs, links in text files, etc. I use Keep to take notes in school, from my phone or tablet; usually my phone, but they sync, which is very nice. anything I type on my tablet is on my phone and vice versa. and then there's NFC Task Launcher. I definitely suggest you get some NFC tags to play around with. they aren't expensive, and there's a lot you can do with them. play with the app, set up some tags, and think about having a sticker or keychain make your phone do what you set when you program the tag and tap your phone against it. and ES File Explorer to move stuff around. it's better than the Touchwiz file manager.
those are the basics. give me a category and I'll be able to suggest an app for just about anything else you might need.
Like these?
You may wanna try NFC tags. http://www.amazon.com/NFC-tags-Writeable-Programmable-Money-Back/dp/B00CE3IC74/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413480628&sr=8-1&keywords=nfc+tags
https://www.amazon.com/WhizTags-NTAG213-Adhesive-Backing-Keychain/dp/B00CE3IC74
There are a bunch of different brands. Then you just need a phone that can use them. I have a Moto droid 2.
Then you can program the tags to do all kinds of things with different apps on your phone. I have one on my desk that starts my work timer, one next to my bass amp that stops my "time to practice" alarm, one in my shower like I said, etc.
This has helped me immensely.
I use some WhizTags with Automate to turn on bluetooth, set volume and brightness for when I get to work, am heading out to the car, or when I get home. I really like the keychain tag but I only have use for about 3 tags so far. No issues that I know of, and they are overkill because I don't need that much storage on each tag. Literally all I write is a link to Automate so it is launched when the tag is scanned.
It depends on the computer, your music, and the rest of your audio gear. If your music is low bitrate or your amp/speakers aren't great they will hold you back more than the dac in your computer. If you do want a dac I would also consider the Schiit Modi it is very popular for budget setups on /r/headphones. (The D1 is pretty comparable but you are paying more for a headphone amp)
you should consdier getting a DAC. DACs are fantastic. Mine died, and i was going straight from the PC to the stereo, and it sounded like straight up butt. Once I got a new DAC it was a friggin revelation.
if you want to go cheap, a fiio D3 will serve: http://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405281051&sr=1-14&keywords=fiio+dac
after that, i would recommend a Schiit Modi: http://www.amazon.com/Modi-USB-Digital-Analog-Convertor/dp/B00CICPN0K/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1405281149&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=schiit+dac
it keeps going up from there (i personally run an emotiva xda-2 which is in the $250 neighborhood).
You need to get one that says it converts things to mobile phone 3.5mm jacks- the connecting two sets of headphones will not work.
Something like this will work, but you'd do well to shop around a bit more.
You need to pick up an adapter for it: headset buddy. What headset is it, out of curiosity?
Don't buy headsets if you want quality products. Especially not Turtle Beach, they're the worst out there.
Looks to me like you're looking for something around $100. Here's what you could have that would best everything at that price range:
Headphones: Sennheiser 518
Microphone: Zalman Mic
Headset buddy to put them together to work on consoles.
Total: $96.50-
If you don't have the funds right now and don't want to wait to get them... well get something as cheap as possible (like these IEM/mic: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005IF3CE8/) and wait until you do have the money to buy the above.
It's a combo jack, correct? You need a splitter for it to work.
https://www.amazon.com/Headset-Buddy-Computer-Smartphone-PC35-PH35/dp/B00ENFA3GO
Schiit SYS 2 input switch.
Other switches:
Or a preamp:
Any headphone amp can do the job if you have one. Otherwise the Schiit sys has nice aesthetics: https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Audio-SCH-13-Passive-Preamp/dp/B00K6Q2A4C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474215582&sr=8-1&keywords=passive+volume+control but a passive volume control such as this will work: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474215582&sr=8-3&keywords=passive+volume+control
Sound quality with monitors is going to be leaps and bounds better than the other two, even if they're close together.
Quick question, is an orbit basic alongside powered speakers and this pre amp enough for a working setup? ( https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Audio-SCH-13-Passive-Preamp/dp/B00K6Q2A4C/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&coliid=I2BULCT79T2UA1&colid=UYFI1XI4ZRID )
It's the Chromecast Audio
Best buy had them for $25 on blackfriday, I got 3 and have 1 in my bedroom, kitchen, and living room.
I can cast from my phone or Google home to 1 or all 3. It's basically a poor man's Sonos setup if you already have speakers.
Here is a link.
I got this in the living room to switch between the turntable and the Chromecast and to control the volume without have to reach behind both of my powered speakers.
Technically you only need this cable: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6
The downside is you'll have to rely on your phone for volume control then because the volume is set per speaker and adjusting it manually would be tedious. You can use this in between the phone and speakers if all you need is volume control. https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Audio-SCH-13-Passive-Preamp/dp/B00K6Q2A4C/
Use one of these with an XLR mic input. It's pretty foolproof.
You an also record line level into an iPhone with a good recording app (Rode Rec is a good one) and an attenuator plug like this. Cheap and great quality. You can use adapters to get from XLR, RTS, or RCA outputs. Because the phone is not grounded, there's no worries with ground loops or noise caused by the unbalanced input.
Hope this helps.
Do you have one of these ?
Headset Buddy Mic Line-Level 3.5mm Audio Input Adapter Cable for iPhone, iPad, Mac, Android, Soundboards and Mixers (iPhone-Mic-Line) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OAW85ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HHbBCbS98DMR0
if your ipad model has a headphone jack you really don't need an audio interface unless you really want Midi or multitrack recording... 7 dollar cable tricks your existing mic-in to be line-level.
​
https://www.amazon.com/Headset-Buddy-Line-level-Smartphones-iPhone-Mic-Line/dp/B00OAW85ZG
I use this cable
https://www.amazon.com/Headset-Buddy-Line-level-Smartphones-iPhone-Mic-Line/dp/B00OAW85ZG
to record straight into my iPhone, all you need is a 3.5mm aux cord and a headphone input (TRRS). It would also work to record into the MacBook with decent quality, but you will trade stereo quality for mono. If you want to maintain your stereo field, I highly recommend a 2 channel audio interface to record in left and right as 2 separate channels.
I think this is an electrical issue.
Nearly all smartphones use a 4-pin TRRS 3.5mm connector, with the pinout being headphone left, headphone right, microphone, and ground. Using a standard 3-pin TRS (the male to make auxiliary cord you mention) shouldn't work, because the microphone and ground end sharing the sleeve (this is the "S" in TRS, and the long part of the connector, closest to the cable.) and basically shorting out. Depending on the hardware, this might manipulate the ground enough to cause the quiet, distorted sound you ended up hearing.
Read more about TRRS at this Wikipedia page
I have had success with no this adapter:
Headset Buddy Line-level Audio Adapter for iPhone and Smartphones (iPhone-Mic-Line)
I used it to record a high quality voicemail from my computer to my phone. I'd first try it with no additional apps, btw.
You can just stab the meter leads into the speaker wires. You don't have to actually connect them together.
But yes. Multimeter leads----> LOC-----> RCA to 3.5 -----> iPhone/iPad. I'd recommend this LOC, because I know it's extremely flat response/sonically neutral. Also, if you really want to be safe OR already have an RCA to 3.5mm that you can reuse, pick up one of these. That will do two things. First, attenuate the signal down into your iPhone/iPad. And second, trigger the microphone input on the iPad/iPhone.
Mic band. I just meant you need a 4-pole 3.5mm connection. One with a mic line. Look closely at the pictures shown for the line level adapter I linked you to.
Why not record it with an external device such as the Reloop Tape http://www.reloop.com/reloop-tape-1202?___store=reloop_de&___from_store=reloop_en or an ipod/iphone (with some added hardware for recording https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00OAW85ZG/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1638&creative=6742&creativeASIN=B00OAW85ZG&linkCode=as2&tag=rwc-geschenkideen-21)? Both are easy to include in a DJ setup.
Toothpaste, like 3 backup deodorants, gallon jug of water, pack of clean hanes tees, like 5-10 rolls of quarters if he's traveling cross country (consider: street parking at meters also!). Garbage bags are useful for dirty laundry.
idk what type of music he makes but when I tour 1/4" to 1/8" adapters come in handy when laptops / shitty PAs are involved
If he reads, a book from his favorite author or a new game for his DS to help keep him entertained. If he gets sick, dramamine or other motion sickness tablets.
What does he play? An extra tuning key for drums or some extra strings for his guitar / bass could be helpful. If he's a singer, something soothing to the throat? Ginger Ale is my favorite.
Just spitballing here.
Desk arm mic stands are pretty dope and cheap. I have this one and it has worked well enough for how cheap it is.https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Microphone-Suspension-Broadcasting-Voice-Over/dp/B00DY1F2CS/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=desk+mic+arm&qid=1564619752&s=gateway&sr=8-7
Extra xlr cables are always nice to have around. A pop filter is also nice, though you probably need one with that dynamic mic you'll be using. Headphone extension cables can be nice depending on how things are set up on your desk, and how long your headphone cable is. The Focusrite Solo also only has a quarter inch headphone jack, so if you don't have an adapter you could pick up one of those
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-6-35mm-Female-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B01D82XXGO/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_267_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SQ828YGS55DGEP084TVVOverall you should be good though!
Edit: Also any kind of adapter to hook up the RCA outputs on the back of the Solo to your pc speakers if you have some too!
I think the absolutel simplest solution to this would be to get one of these type of adapters, and keep it on always. That way, the broken 3.5mm is never getting pulled on.
Other solutions include cutting the whole jack off and rewiring, but i'd try this first.
Like most professional audio equipment, the Blackstar ID:Core 100 has a 1/4" (6.35mm) headphone jack, rather than the 1/8" (3.5mm) jack used on most consumer audio equipment. Most headphones come with an adapter in the box, but if yours didn't, you can buy one on Amazon.
You should be able to just plug the monitors into the 1/4in monitor out, using the gain knob to adjust volume. What size jack are your monitors - 3.5mm? If so you can get one of these to plug them into the output on your mixer
Do you wanna know the only solution i found for people like us? Buy your wired hearbuds and connect it to one of this or similar https://www.amazon.it/dp/B01HRYAP1K?ascsubtag=AgEAAAAAAAAAAJJv&linkCode=g12&creativeASIN=B01HRYAP1K&tag=thewire0d-21
I always laugh when I see shit like this and the idiots funding it on kickstarter.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Griffin-Bluetooth-Headphone-Adapter-iPhone-x/dp/B01HRYAP1K
https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Hi-Fi-Home-Audio/Avantree-Bluetooth-Headphones-Handsfree-Microphone/B01LZRB8HJ
It's an overpriced reboxing on a piece of tech you can pick up for a few quid that has been around for years.
This is the one I have, I'm sure I paid a lot less for it tho: https://www.amazon.co.uk/KitSound-Active-Bluetooth-Wireless-Earphones/dp/B0063BJX44
Some quick Googling got me to this, which looks like the exact same thing, but half the price and with a micro-USB charging port rather than a micro barrel: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Griffin-Bluetooth-Headphone-Adapter-iPhone-x/dp/B01HRYAP1K
It has a built-in mic for calling using headphones, rather than needing a headset. I don't know if it would use the in-line mic if one was there, but I doubt it.
There are a couple of products out there. One is something like this, you simply plug your headphones into the adapter and go. There are other products that get rid of the wire completely but they won't work with your headphones because the AE2's have that weird shape for their input and, in typical Bose fashion, they use a 2.5mm input instead of the standard 3.5mm.
The first option is your best bet. They're inexpensive, have long battery lives (I used to have a Bluetooth clip like that and would easily get 16+ hours out of it), and will work with any wired headphone.
> They are about 20 months old now, nearing the 2 year mark and don't last more than 30-40 minutes (call or music) before needing to go back into the case.
And this is why I won't get Airpods, or any Bluetooth earphones/headphones that are expensive.
Because the battery will inevitably die / stop holding a charge for a reasonable time, and then you have to replace them.
If you want good earphones/headphones with the convenience of a Bluetooth connection then get yourself one of these and use it with a good pair of wired headphones (which you may already have). When the battery inevitably dies you just replace this little unit instead of your several-hundred-dollar headphones.
I use a Sena 10S and although pricey, I have found it worth the investment. It "just works", and although I primarily use it for music I like the added functionality of taking phone calls, and the intercom function is nice too if you're riding with others so equipped.
All that said, I've also used bluetooth adapters with good success. Upside to these is you use your own earbuds and the sound quality is great.
There are knockoff Sena-style systems too that I've seen, but I have no experience with those.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008AGQMQC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5QAQAbS0CENVC
Or this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HRYAP1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FSAQAb9NBJE8B
Helmet Audio - where are all the options?
I've been snowboarding for 25 years, but finally picked up a helmet this year now that we're introducing our young kids to snowboarding. So after getting my helmet I started looking to see what was available for wireless (bluetooth) setups. I was expecting more options than what's out there.
The Outdoor Tech Chips 2.0 seem to be exactly what I'd like, but are more expensive than I expected. Other companies seem to just re-brand this item. There are a few wired options out there that then use a bluetooth adapter. And finally, there's many items intended for the motorcycle crowd, Sena, that is even more expensive and seems like overkill for a snowboarding setup.
What is everyone using? Sticking it out with Earbuds? I was hoping for an open ear setup so that I can hear those around me, but still have some tunes.
Then you probably need an adapter like THIS because the headset wire has both the headphone and microphone parts combined.
The adapter splits the two signals. You plug one in your PC headphone jack and the other in your PC microphone or level in jack.
They'll work as headphones, yeah. If you want to use the mic on them too you'll have to get a splitter like this one
Yup, there are many splitters like this one you can use. KINGTOP Headset Splitter Cable 3.5mm Female to 2 Male for PC Computer and Old Version Laptop https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I3A47KM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ywDXCb5G0K4K6
You need this kind of adapter to split the headphone and mic into the two ports on the laptop:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I3A47KM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_z6XcBbS26E9M0
according to reviews, this seems like a great Y splitter.
STOP!... Here u go buddy: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWURJMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NDoBzbMJ3M4DX
Thank me later.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LWURJMI/
I bought this my first time around and I've loved every second of it. Running it with PiHole now and it looks like I'll be buying a second one!
Shoot, looks like I missed it!
I got this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LWURJMI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Dongle-Dangler-headphone-accessory-key-chain/dp/B01MSYT8HH
I've been looking into buying this. Hope this helps you.
This is a big help
Dongle Dangler - 3.5mm headphone adapter keychain for iPhone 7, iPhone 7 Plus, iPhone 8, iPhone X, Google Pixel 2 and more. (Chrome 1-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSYT8HH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-rn3Ab710GCHE
Dongle Dangler - 3.5mm headphone adapter keychain for iPhone 7, iPhone 7 Plus, iPhone 8, iPhone X, Google Pixel 2 and more. (Chrome 1-Pack)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSYT8HH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2lJZAbQ63H6R4
This is purpose built for exactly this purpose:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSYT8HH
If you find one you like you might pick up the piece that connects your dongle to your key ring.
​
https://www.amazon.com/Dongle-Dangler-Keychain-Accessory-Compatible/dp/B01MSYT8HH
There are cheeper options but this one seems VERY convenient. No carrying around something in your pocket.
https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Bluetooth-Adapter-QuietComfort-Headphones/dp/B01MTQGY69/
Price History
ReviewMeta: ★★★★☆ 4.2/5 from 904 valid reviews
CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
_
Always check the prices. The savings can be Knight and day.
^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fce572d%2Fheadphones_bose_qc2513495%2Fetzcxoi%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**
These can basically be turned into the q35 with this little adapter
Bolle&Raven Wireless Bluetooth Adapter for Bose QuietComfort 25 Headphones (QC25) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01MTQGY69/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UhOlDb5WTB4JE
You can also get it from AliExpress for $40
I paid $49 for it but it looks like it’s $54 now. The only thing I don’t like about it is if I forget to manually disconnect it, I can’t connect it to another device. So if I’m using it on my computer and decide to listen on my phone, I need to remember to disconnect it on my computer. But overall it’s better than having to carry a dongle around or buy a new pair of headphones!
Here you go https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Bluetooth-Adapter-QuietComfort-Headphones/dp/B01MTQGY69/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1538535441&sr=8-4&keywords=qc25+adapter
I have the Bose QC25s. They’re a god send. Also, if you have a wired pair and want Bluetooth this adapter is great. You can’t even tell the adapter isn’t a part of them. Like the above, I’ll sometimes use them without music. If something is REALLY loud, I play brown noise through them.
AirMod Wireless Bluetooth Adapter for Bose QuietComfort 25 Headphones (QC25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTQGY69/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JDA3BbR6YRWAD
Yes I’m having the same issue. I love my headset but it was causing constant blue screens and panic/kernel errors. I actually bypassed the usb card and purchased a headphone and microphone splitter from amazon. This is the one I bought
UGREEN Headphone Splitter for Computer 3.5mm Female to 2 Dual 3.5mm Male Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter Cable Smartphone Headset to PC Adapter (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZDDTH2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kCfwDbTE97SPX
I’m just waiting on the fix.
Maybe try this audio splitter out? I had this in the past when I wanted my audio interface to use the speakers on my computer rather than listening them through my earbuds and to use the mic on the earbuds.
UGREEN Headphone Splitter 3.5mm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZDDTH2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
So your motherboard has seperate audio ports for Headphone and Mic right? you can get an audio headphone & mic splitter for like $6: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Headphone-Splitter-Computer-Smartphone/dp/B073ZDDTH2/
EDIT: I'm surprised your headset didn't come with one. Both the Logitech headsets iv'e gotten came with a splitter.
So it never worked before?
Without looking at the details of this headset, I'm going to take a guess that it uses a combi jack. Meaning one plug (3.5mm) that goes into the PC.
The sound card on your PC has a green & red color coded jack for your microphone & 'speakers'.
Thus you need a splitter, like this.
Plug the right colors into the PC and you should have both sound & a working microphone.
You'll have to buy a splitter.
Something like this : https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Headphone-Splitter-3-5mm-Female/dp/B073ZDDTH2
No, probably not an analogue/digital problem simply a matter of the plugs are different. i.e the pc expects right,left in one plug and microphone in another,not in the same plug. That is why something like this adapter (google for one) 'Headphone Splitter for Computer 3.5mm Female to 2 Dual 3.5mm Male Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter' should work
It depends on what your computer or audio device supports. Newer motherboards and laptops typically have audio and microphone in one port. If you have separate speaker/headphone and microphone ports then you probably need that adapter.
Note that the adapter on our site only works with our wired Arctis headsets. If you buy an Arctis 7 or Arctis Pro Wireless you will need an adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756CK9HG/
>I can only hear things when I plug my earbuds into the green audio port. However, then my input doesn't work.
Well... of course? Green is ONLY an audio output. And pink is ONLY a Mic input.
You need an adapter to split the signals on your 4-pole airpods jack.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756CK9HG/
If you are using 3.5mm you can just do this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQZ2023/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_q9mGAbWCK5BV2
Yes! I had to get a headphone splitter for my computer. I bought a 3.5mm female to 2 dual 3.5mm male adapter.
This is what I bought: https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Splitter-Computer-Smartphone-Headset/dp/B01MQZ2023/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1509903350&sr=8-12&keywords=mic+and+headphone+adapter
[Headphone Splitter For Computer 3.5mm Female to 2 Dual 3.5mm Male Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter Cable Smartphone Headset to PC Adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQZ2023/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xaCWAb4M191NA)
From what I think you're explaining you'd need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQZ2023/ref=asc_df_B01MQZ20235424256/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B01MQZ2023&linkCode=df0&hvadid=226131567976&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6575203962263427076&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032178&hvtargid=pla-382920953199
Separates the mic and headphone connectors so your PC can distinguish the two.
Fairly certain the problem is that xbox only needs one 3.5mm jack for sound and chat while pc needs one for each which is why you are only getting sound
If your headset only has a single 3.5mm jack then you will need one of these
You need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Exclusives-Headphone-Splitter-Computer-Smartphone/dp/B01MQZ2023/ref=pd_lpo_23_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GNEZ1W134BS1F3EZKPEB
If you don't care all that much about your audio quality, a simple Y cable (https://www.amazon.com/Exclusives-Headphone-Splitter-Computer-Smartphone/dp/B01MQZ2023/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1503171393&sr=8-6&keywords=y-splitter+audio+cable) would be enough to get the job done. If you care about sound quality on both ends, a mixer would be needed, which would very likely be out of your budget to get a semi-decent one.
You'll probably also want 2 lengths of extender cords to have enough slack to connect to your controller and computer. I cannot guarantee the safety of the device headphone ports when doing this.
It has a trrs connector that carries both mic and headphones. You have separate ports for each. Need this adapter to work.
https://www.amazon.com/Exclusives-Headphone-Splitter-Computer-Smartphone/dp/B01MQZ2023/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1502383900&sr=8-5&keywords=headphone+splitter+male
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
https://smile.amazon.com/Exclusives-Headphone-Splitter-Computer-Smartphone/dp/B01MQZ2023/ref=sr_1_5
---
^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot
Oh I'm so sorry, I forgot about that.
Get two of these splitters.
Now use the F2F and M2M couplers and wires to split the headphone mic and connect it to a splitter that connect to the phone.
There, you have a bunch of wires, but it's cheaper then the other solutions.
Better yet, use this splitter on the headphone end and the former splitter on the phone end.
Total cost for my setup is $27, could be less depending on how you mix and match the wires.
Now, solved.
I would suggest you purchase a y adapter to separate out the microphone pole and prevent it from making contact.
you probably need something like this
Yeah I don't have the combined port so I'd have to get a splitter. Would something like this work?
Yes, I tried using the 1st party Xbox One over-ear headset+mic first. Then, I plugged my AudioTechnica ATH-M50xs and Sony ECM CS3 clip-on mic into an aux splitter and then into the controller. Same issue.
Your post has been reported for violating Rule 1 of this subreddit and I'll have to remove it.
> Rule 1: All requests that solicit product opinion or asks for purchase advice must be posted in our purchase sticky.
You are very welcome to repost your question in the stickied daily purchase advice thread.
Please make use of this format when you submit a request
__
NOTE: You need a new TRRS splitter
The contacts may be different, you'll need a splitter like this one. Or try the other comment before buying.
hey have you had any luck? I bought this one: but lo and behold the mic still doesn't work. I'm trying to figure out if it's a driver issue right now
People ridiculed me when I did this to mine, but I’ve had my adapter never fall out since for two reasons:
https://imgur.com/gallery/JtJpw
Dongle Dangler - 3.5mm headphone adapter keychain for iPhone 7, iPhone 7 Plus, iPhone 8, iPhone X, Google Pixel 2 and more. (Chrome 1-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSYT8HH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5kIIAbVGP4SHT
> i wish they had some kind of keychain connector
You can make one really easily. Just take the male end of a 3.5mm jack and put it on a key ring. Alternatively, you can buy one.
The "Dongle Dangler" ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
Disclaimer: Removing the jack was dumb as hell and the #1 reason why I didn't get a 2XL.
I've seen other redditors post links to something like this:
Dongle Dangler - iPhone 7 headphone dongle accessory keychain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSYT8HH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wDUcAbGEZM79Q
My guess is it would work with Android equivalent.
This is cool, looks more secure than this popular option.
Dongle Dangler - iPhone 7 headphone dongle accessory keychain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSYT8HH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3oDbAbC6HQDJJ
Or you could just get this lol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSYT8HH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CIDbAbY86RWHK
It's attached to this. It just snaps on and off :)
https://www.apple.com/shop/product/MU7E2AM/A/usb-c-to-35-mm-headphone-jack-adapter
https://www.amazon.com/Dongle-Dangler-Keychain-Accessory-Compatible/dp/B01MSYT8HH
Speaking of keeping it close and protected - I've been using this and it's been wonderful: https://www.amazon.com/Dongle-Dangler-headphone-adapter-keychain/dp/B01MSYT8HH
I always have it when I need it.
Ah, gotcha. I got one of these and keep it on my keychain.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B01MSYT8HH/ref=nosim/appleink
Curious to know if this is what I'm looking for, or if someone can point me in another direction. Not a fan of the noise cancelling aspects since I have to charge them:
Bose QC25 + AirMod Wireless Bluetooth Adapter for Bose QuietComfort 25 Headphones (QC25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTQGY69/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yUXEAbHZ4N4SF
Essentially looking for an on ear/ over ear headphones that can be used wirelessly and wired
> QC25 is corded
With the Airmod I've now ditched the cable on my QC25.
For $65 using this you can make them bluetooth. Myself, I just strap any flat bluetooth receiver I can find and I'm good. Fun stuff aside, I use them as my daily drivers and they're great. Maybe not $299 great, but at this price there is just no reason not to buy them.
I just ordered these. Great review.
https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Bluetooth-Adapter-QuietComfort-Headphones/dp/B01MTQGY69/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=5DD294TZGYRP9A4M80T3&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=f58829ef-ff4e-4868-b5c8-fe8c3bd9f769&pf_rd_i=desktop&linkCode=sl1&tag=jims03-20&linkId=aca2fd984cc3f0a658d0ade029db95e9
It looks like there are a few versions out there, but I have never tested them, and I can only find reviews for one version 🤷♂️
Hopefully, these reviews about the Airmod will be able to help you.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTQGY69
This is pretty ridiculous looking and not AA, but maybe someone with more knowledge than me could make it work with AA batteries. I just remembered reading how to turn your QC25 headphones into Bluetooth headphones when phones started dropping the headphone jack. This adapter was in the article I read at the time but it's got a built-in battery.
Only BT adapter I’d recommend for the QC25 is the Bolle & Raven AirMod, they made one for the QC15 originally and then when the QC25 came out they released one for those as well. It’s discrete and fits the headphones perfectly as it’s custom designed.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MTQGY69/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8Fn4BbH405DVG
https://www.bolleraven.com
I've seen people using these with a Bluetooth adapter for some years now. In fact, there is one specifically made for this thing:
https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Bluetooth-Adapter-QuietComfort-Headphones/dp/B01MTQGY69/
Can also use the Mi Bluetooth receiver, but it wont fit as well.
Duh, sorry.
This one:
AirMod Wireless Bluetooth Adapter for Bose QuietComfort 25 Headphones (QC25) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MTQGY69/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5dw2BbWZEP52N
I have this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTQGY69/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It depends if you'll ever be listening to music.
If you're looking for good audio quality then the Sony MDR-ZX660AP sounds amazing (blowing any gaming headset audio out the water), and has a great soundstage (directional audio). It's advertised as on ear but in reality it's very close to over ear, and for my sister it's fully over ear.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00U5WUOWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0FigAbDXECKJB
Combine that with a Speedlink Spes Clip-on mic or Zalman ZM-MIC1 Clip-on mic and you'll have a very flexible headset + mic setup.
Speedlink Spes - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004YEWC22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sIigAb53RXECX
Zalman ZM-MIC1 - Zalman ZMMIC1 Lapel Microphone https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00029MTMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kJigAbHBRWBRY
I also use the headphones with a audio/mic splitter, which makes the cable much longer than the 1.2m it comes as (quite short) - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B073ZDDTH2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LMigAbNDFHZRY
The one I linked is quite expensive for what it is, but it looks very sleek and you could always buy a splitter/extender that is longer and cheaper.
Just an FYI, we had to plug the mic into the PC rather than the controller and use a "y" adapter to split the connector into two inputs for the headset and mic. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZDDTH2/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_hXmhDbT6V5JZR
Should be able to use any TRRS 3.5mm cable like this one in combination with a splitter like this one
I can't watch the video right now, but another thing to check - most computer sound cards are only equipped with TRS jacks. Computers typically require the mic connection to be physically separate from the speaker connection. Rather than rewiring everything, you might be able to use a simple splitter with the PC.
On PC you will need to use the included USB dongle. Otherwise you need a splitter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Headphone-Splitter-Computer-Smartphone/dp/B073ZDDTH2.
You want something like this Basically headphone/mic combo jacks have a 4 pole connector but individual mics/headphones use 3 pole connectors.
Adapter that splits the headphone and Mic portions into 2 separate jacks
UGREEN Headphone Mic Splitter Cable 3.5mm 2 Male to Female (2x3 Pin to 4 Pin) Smartphone Headset with Mic and Speaker Combo to PC Adapter for Separated Mic and Audio Ports Computer Laptop (Black) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B073ZDDTH2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IqH-Bb3K66K2V
Or similar type cable if you can get one for better deal...
Interesting when I plugged in the audio jack separately and connected it as headphone it worked, and then i plugged in the microphone jack and connected it as microphone and they both now work. It is a bit cumbersome as the cable is a bit short. This was tested on the HyperX cloud ones.
EDIT: input volume seems to be very low.
If I wanted to use the other headset that only comes with only 3.5mm jack will I have to buy one off of amazon such as this
Guess what you need to make the buttons work again.
Another Adapter
Because you know. Portability is important.
Got some new Sennheiser Momentum 2 AEBTs and I'm wondering if I can split the single 3.5mm wire into separate headphone and mic 3.5mm cables so I can use it as a headset when I'm on my PC.
I'm thinking of something like this
Anyone know if this is possible?
Cheers!
Ps also just spotted this , not sure if that would also work
Is this a headset with the single combined plug? You'll need to use a splitter like this https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Headphone-Splitter-Computer-Smartphone/dp/B073ZDDTH2 to use the mic with a standard PC using separate mic and headphone jacks.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Headphone-Microphone-Headphones-connector/dp/B073ZDDTH2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=mic+and+audio+splitter&qid=1572296654&sprefix=mic+and+a&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExUTlBU1c2U04yMjY4JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDI2Mjk2MVNIRTVNOTZCRlRFTyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjUwMzg2M0U2Q0YwTFBCQUNQQyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl one of these
1080p144 or 1440p60, got you a 1440p144 monitor but if you cant get 144fps at 1440p you can always turn down some settings or switch to 1080p, youll be set for a monitor for a couple gpu generations at least and you can always upgrade the gpu for 1440p144 at a later time.
Youre also all set to overclock if/when you choose to (which i recommend doing right away since it will help you get more fps for your 144hz monitor).
The keyboard has a usb passthrough and i noticed your headset comes with a usb adapter/extender cable (at least the version amazon sells) so when you said headphone jack if you meant for your headphones and have that cable then you can get rid of the $10 adapter at the bottom of the list. If you are planning on plugging your headphones in via a single mic+speaker cable, you will need to buy another cheap adapter (such as this) since the usb to audio adapters i could find all separate the mic and headphones into 2 ports.
I just found a mouse that satisfied what you mentioned but there are soooo many options for rgb, adjustable dpi, and thumb rest youd be better off just looking through amazon if you dont like the one I found.
You didnt mention speakers so im assuming youre solely using your headset but the monitor i picked out also comes with built in speakers which while not the best are an adequate alternative if you plan to mostly use your headset. Alternatively you can get a cheap 2.1 channel speaker set for 20-35$ depending on wattage and aesthetic style.
​
Also in a couple months prices will have changed and amd is coming out with a new line of processors and gpus soon ™ so i recommend you nail down your keyboard and mouse choice and then ask for another build (less the cost of the keyboard and mouse) in a couple months or so for a more accurate price, also feel free to nail down the monitor as well to simplify the build process since they arent going to change much in the next two months either. Eliminating the keyboard and mouse (and to a lesser extent the monitor) will likely get you a lot more replies more quickly since keyboards and mouses are a lot more subjective than the performance metrics associated with tower components.
this should work if your headset has a combined (mic and audio) 3.5mm jack
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Headphone-Splitter-3-5mm-Female/dp/B073ZDDTH2/ref=pd_day0_hl_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B073ZDDTH2&pd_rd_r=4be04072-60f2-11e8-857f-ef2b1f8c4388&pd_rd_w=IQqEt&pd_rd_wg=39x1F&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=4014010564823900592&pf_rd_r=STR5X4VDRGSQ5GWPZYHK&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=STR5X4VDRGSQ5GWPZYHK
takes a 3.5mm mic/audio combined jack and splits it into separate mic and headphone 3.5mm male jacks
I've never had any of the boards I've used have combo jacks on the back.
https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Splitter-MillSO-Microphone-Headset-30CM/dp/B0756CK9HG This cable should work.
Does the earphone use an in-line microphone?
And these pair of earphones have one cable right, which is used both for audio and microphone correct?
If this is right, then you will not be able to use the microphone from the earphones to this laptop because it appears the laptop does not feature a 4-pole or whatever it was called headphone jack to support microphone and sound output at the same time.
Looking at the laptop I think I see one headphone jack and one separate microphone jack.
You will probably need some sort of adapter to get this working, which I've never done before.
Something like this would do the trick, but with the design of that laptop you probably need to buy a 3.5mm extension as well as the laptop stupidly has audio on left, mic jack on right.
https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-Microphone-Headphone-Connector-Headset-30CM/dp/B0756CK9HG/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511771677&sr=1-8&keywords=4-Pole+to+2-pole+3.5mm+splitter+cable
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756CK9HG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hzo4Bb3MEYW73
I guess this would be the same
In fact re-reading the description, it looks like it could well be the solution..
This looks to be a decent one on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-Microphone-Headphone-Connector-Headset-30CM/dp/B0756CK9HG/
It's hard to recommend a specific cable because all headphones have different size plugs and stuff, but you need a 4 pole aux cable for the headphones then a 4 pole female to dual male to split the audio and the mic signal.
4 pole will have 4 gold sections and 3 dividing lines: 1 for ground, 2 for left and right channel, and one more for the mic.
Like this
As for the splitter, something like this would work to split the single 4 pole into 2.
Most computers use separate mic and headphone jacks. If yours has both and you want to use those headphones with it one of these might be an option.
You're using phones with a mic, yeah? Three rings on them instead of two?
Need to split those off. That 3.5mm to 1/4" splitter you've got is made for stereo headphones, with two rings.
You need one of these to get that mic channel out of the loop:
https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-Microphone-Headphone-Connector-Headset-30CM/dp/B0756CK9HG/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QDBX735DZJ0DGKJ9J3AP
Or just a pair of headphones without a mic.
I have issues with TRRS plugs on the volume knob thing on my ZxR. I have to use a splitter to take the TRRS to mic and headphones.
This is the adapter I bought to make it work:
3.5mm Headset Splitter, MillSO Jack Adapter CTIA 2 Male to Female Y Splitter Adapter Cable with Separate Microphone and Headphone Compatible for PC PS4 Gaming Headset-30CM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756CK9HG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_O-tXCbD6CBTZP
You need an adapter. Like this.
Belkin white splitter: $3.99
Belkin black splitter: $2.90
Belkin white splitter: $2.38
Belkin black splitter: $3.09
A 3.5 audio splitter should work. Here is a link to a cheap one on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Speaker-and-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00009WQSR
I bought a y shaped one here on amazon and it works well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009WQSR/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_UXrMAb7XJ4GTN
would this 2 female to 1 male aux cord be able to take both a smart tv output and a monitor output and play them both through a sound bar? Not at the same time, i just don't want to manually switch out cables whenever i want to use my sound bar.
also: any good idea on how to keep wires against a wall? like nail in brackets? Im planning on running some wires from a cable box to the tv but they'd be going up the wall and over the entrance to my bedroom closet and then back down
Note: The points system is currently broken. We're working on it.
In case you missed it, click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.
There may be some questions still unanswered! Below are a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.
If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.
----
> The volume levels of my programs in sound mixer are adjusting themselves. Call volume setting is at do nothing, give applications exclusive control is off. What could be doing this?
>
> EDIT: I reset my audio driver to default and it stopped happening. However, I am still curious as to why it could have happened. I have alienware audio drivers.
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/71ygr9/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_23_2017/dneuns3
----
> would this 2 female to 1 male aux cord be able to take both a smart tv output and a monitor output and play them both through a sound bar? Not at the same time, i just don't want to manually switch out cables whenever i want to use my sound bar.
>
> also: any good idea on how to keep wires against a wall? like nail in brackets? Im planning on running some wires from a cable box to the tv but they'd be going up the wall and over the entrance to my bedroom closet and then back down
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/71ygr9/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_23_2017/dnf05tl
----
> Planning on buying an Nvidia shield for my under the tv box, but I'm also interested in the game streaming it does and have a question regarding it.
>
> I've got a 4k television, and my PC is a 2560x1080 ultra-wide. I'm I going to run into any issues with streaming from my PC to my tv since the resolutions are two different ratios?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/71ygr9/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_23_2017/dnf4rci
----
> What's a good wireless mouse that decently priced? Just for casual gaming, nothing hardcore.
> Maybe something in the 20-30 range
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/71ygr9/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_23_2017/dnf4zw8
----
> Could anyone recommend a good speaker for my pc that preferably costs under £30?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/71ygr9/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_23_2017/dnfqzcn
----
> How do you get the Custom flairs like "Nintendo Peasant" or "Retired PC Master Race" and get to choose your own colours?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/71ygr9/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_23_2017/dnfrqgd
----
----
I am a bot - This action was done automatically. Please direct any questions or concerns ( or bug reports ) to \/u\/eegras - About /u/PCMRBot
Fly away home.
this
No, the XLR's are inputs, not outputs.
No daisy-chaining is supported with those speakers.
If you really wanted to run all four (not sure why you'd want to), you could use a 3.5mm y cable then run a 3.5mm->RCA to each set of speakers.
Ah that sucks.
On a sidenote, you mentioned that you like having two sets of headphones for the audio.
Would another solution be an Bluetooth audio receiver (like this one from etekcity or from AmazonBasics) with a 3.5mm audio splitter and two headphones/earphones?
3.5mm audio splitter.
https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Audio-Splitter-Speaker-Headphones/dp/B005GNQNHU
https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Audio-Splitter-Speaker-Headphones/dp/B005GNQNHU
would an audio splitter like this work?
If you already have the optical from the apple TV to your speakers, why dont simply turn the volume on the TV to 0?
Most tvs has separate audio levels for different inputs, so when you change to another HDMI input it would reset the volume for that one, and turn to 0 again when going back to apple tv.
3.5 mm outputs from TVs are made for headphones, so it probably wont change when changing inputs. Does the tv has an optical output?
Still, It sounds to me like you are using a passive 3.5mm splitter like this one to connect both the audio from the TV, to the audio from the dac. This is simple not the right adapter for this. This will most likely burn or damage the input of the speakers in the long run. You need some kind of selector to break the audio from one input. This will eliminate the delay you get. Something like this, and just switch as needed.
$1.51 - free shipping
http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Audio-Splitter-Speaker-Headphones/dp/B005GNQNHU
If you just want to play through both simultaneously, then a straight splitter like this would likely work.
I should have also added something else into this. I have a computer that I have splitting off to two TVs. Let me elaborate...
The video feed on both TVs comes from DVI->HDMI 50 ft cables, and they are connected to a video card with DVI. This is the video card that is installed on that desktop: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814129220
For the sound, I have a splitter connected on the back of the computer/motherboard. This is what that looks like: https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Audio-Splitter-Speaker-Headphones/dp/B005GNQNHU
Once it connects to the splitter, I have the 3.5mm cable connecting directly to the first TV. This second one does not have an audio input, and does not have analog RCA connections. I think the adapters that the others are mentioning may work better for this case.
You can use thi Audio Splitter. Both set of speakers will get the same output.
Ok, so, I took a look at one that seemed good.
This one is well within my price range and has glowing reviews:
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTD-300-Bluetooth-3-0-adapter/dp/B005Z5HT2M/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
Look good?
If you can't find one, you can always go this route:
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTD-300-Bluetooth-Energy-adapter/dp/B005Z5HT2M/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1464626305&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+bluetooth+mac
How can I connect my Apple bluetooth keyboard to my PC running Windows 8? I have [This bluetooth adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005Z5HT2M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and the drivers were installed automatically when I plugged it in. When I go to add a bluetooth device it cannot find my keyboard. It has 100% battery and connects to my mac just fine. I made sure my macs bluetooth was turned off as well. Any suggestions?
I actually just bought [this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005Z5HT2M/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) two weeks ago and it's doing fine. Cheap and easy, works well with the Motioninjoy drivers.
Apparently the ASUS Chromebox doesn't have integrated Bluetooth. Looking at the manual pg 17 it shows that in order to use a wireless keyboard/mouse you need a USB Bluetooth dongle. Which surprises me frankly. I don't have one of these but I'd think Bluetooth would be integrated in the box, or at least include the dongle. Maybe someone who owns a Chromebox can chime in here.If BT is not integrated or included in the package you're going to need to get a cheapo USB Bluetooth dongle like this one.Edit: Bluetooth is indeed integrated, but it must be enabled for devices to be paired. To to that, you'll temporarily need a wired USB keyboard/mouse. Thx akhalilx
It would be much easier and cheaper to buy a pair of in ear headphones with a microphone already there, but for your situation I think you will need some kind of splitter that is able to split the audio port into seperate audio and mircophone jacks.
I don't know where to get one, but this is close to what you would need: http://www.mycablemart.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=6022&gclid=CMz77sjL0dECFYE8gQodctUDzQ
Edit: I think this might work, I'm not sure:
https://www.amazon.com/Extrasensory-Devices-ESDHW011-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B006T65CXE
You need something like this.
You just need to get something like this. I'm sure you can find a cheaper one though, that's just the first thing I found for demonstration purposes.
This adapter also works, apparently
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006T65CXE/?tag=stackoverfl08-20
here you go
and another one
and maybe this one
hopefully one of those work
So your microphone has a mono 3.5mm plug? In this case, you'll need something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Extrasensory-Devices-ESDHW011-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B006T65CXE/
You might be able to find cheaper alternatives on amazon, ebay, etc.
What kind of split cable?
something like this should work..
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006T65CXE
The thing is regular audio splitters don't generally have the right connectors for the cell phone side.
Absolutely wrong. The Makers4Good Rockit has one plug and two jacks. One jack is the headphone output, and the other is the mic input. The input is mic level, so you have to knock the other output way back, but it works on all my iPads.
Makers4Good Rockit on Amazon
The issue is that the perfect headphones for him would likely be ATH-M40x/M50x but no inline mic, unless you get a modmic and this https://www.amazon.com/Extrasensory-Devices-ESDHW011-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B006T65CXE
The only way is to get this https://www.amazon.com/Extrasensory-Devices-ESDHW011-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B006T65CXE
Are you trying to record a phone? or a PS4/Xbox One controller? Either way you'll need something like this Splitter. Look at the bottom picture it has examples of plugs and what kind of adapter you need. But you'll need this to start with then you can use adapters to send out the stereo audio out to the mixer. The only thing is it will only capture the game sound and friends talking but not you (if you're using a PS4/Xbox One controller). If you can fill in more details of what you're trying to capture I might be of more help.
You will need to use splitter, like [this one] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006T65CXE/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1CGVTS2Q01082), to connect microphone with 3pin jack.
Info | Details
----|-------
Amazon Product | Rockit Headphone/Microphone Splitter
>Amazon donates 0.5% of the price of your eligible AmazonSmile purchases to the charitable organization of your choice. By using the link above you get to support a chairty and help keep this bot running through affiliate programs all at zero cost to you.
It's called a splitter.
http://amzn.com/B006T637G8
http://amzn.com/B006T65CXE
iOttie is what I currently use in my '15 I hadn't thought it would work with the dash the way it is, I previously had a similar mount in my Jeep Wrangler and this one works way better, more suction, better stick, and sleeker look. I'll post a pic tomorrow. It may not be what you're looking for, but it's worth a see.
I use a mount for my iPhone with Google Maps. I have turn by turn voice directions on Google Maps. I was going to replace my unit and was going to use this in the meantime but have found this to work so well that I am not planning on replacing the nav unit. Might work for you.
A cheaper route might be going with this desk/dash/winshield mount from [iOttie] (http://www.amazon.com/iOttie-HLCRIO104-Windshield-Dashboard-Holder/dp/B0099RGRT8/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top). It's not a minimalistic dock but it can mount on your desk and it won't go anywhere. You'll need a extra lightning cable but you can use this as a dock in your car too!
I have the ipad mini version of this and it's awesome.
i have this one and i love it.
http://www.amazon.com/iOttie-HLCRIO104-Windshield-Dashboard-Holder/dp/B0099RGRT8/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1382128164&sr=1-2&keywords=iottie+car+mount
[EDIT] oops. didn't read that you wanted something NOT for the dashboard or windshield. ignore this post then :)
I got the iOttie "easy Flex car mount 2" a few days ago and it's been great. The regular iOttie was too bulky for my car windshield where I wouldn't be able to use my windshield visors. This one, though, is pretty thin and extremely solid. The easy Flex 2 has their "one touch lock" and is only a few dollars more than the regular easy Flex. Totally worth the price imo. Link:
http://www.amazon.com/cell-phones-accessories/dp/B0099RGRT8
Edit: sorry, mobile link.
Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0099RGRT8
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
I use the iOttie brand. Have had a lot of luck with it in the past. Here is the exact one I have. Mine just sits in the storage space with the suction. Works well.
Car Mount, iOttie HLCRIO104 Easy Flex 2 Windshield Dashboard Car/De... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0099RGRT8/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_UkQ8ub1KVF1PH
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0099RGRT8/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_UkQ8ub1KVF1PH
iOttie to the left of the steering wheel, just above the config button.
It's weird to use my left hand for operating the phone, but my power cord tucks nicely behind the dashboard display and the phone doesn't take up any of my already limited window space. It works pretty well for me, all things considered.
This one http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0099RGRT8?pc_redir=1409579857&robot_redir=1
Okay, I can give a recommendation on a clamp style one - I used this one for years until just recently switching to a magnetic one. It held up well, was very secure, and didn't leave any marks anywhere. It's a little tricky to get the phone in one-handed, but you get the hang of it.
I have the iOttie Easy Flex 2 Windshield Dashboard Car/Desk Mount Holder. And it works well. It doesn't extend as far as I'd like but I don't encounter much vibration at all. It fits my OPO snugly using a Nillkin hard case and all TPU/bumper cases I've used. I recommend mine for the price, but would probably buy yours if I had to do it again. Here's the link:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0099RGRT8
EDIT: I should mention that the extension isn't a big deal since it discourages me from checking my phone while driving.
this one works well for me
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BB5VQCE/ref=abs_brd_tag_dp?smid=A2KV19AYUKS3X0 - 26,000mah
https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Charging-Charger-Microsoft-Surface/dp/B00O6UCGS4/ref=pd_bxgy_107_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00O6UCGS4&pd_rd_r=4MTYTFF0PQMFGCQS5M84&pd_rd_w=qA0Qj&pd_rd_wg=ATgn1&psc=1&refRID=4MTYTFF0PQMFGCQS5M84 this is the cable as this is a laptop charger and isnt bottlenecked by USB
Not sure what the budget is, but I'd recommend this guy.
Gare au voltage.
Ton portable à très probablement besoin de 19V, la plupart des batteries externes sortent du 5V (la tension de l'USB). Vérifie la tension d'entrée de ton PC.
Si c'est bien du 19V, des batteries externes existent mais coûtent cher.
https://www.amazon.com/BiXPower-Watt-hour-Capacity-External-Rechargeable/dp/B0087HW5YM
https://www.amazon.com/RAVPower-23000mAh-Portable-Charger-External/dp/B00HFMUBYG
https://www.amazon.com/Intocircuit-26000mAh-Capacity-Portable-External/dp/B00BB5VQCE
Ça sera peut être plus économique de prendre une seconde batterie de PC.
Grab a portable battery pack And jam it on your gear somewhere, run a cord.
This power pack charges the SP 1 & 2, not sure about the SP 3 requirements.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BB5VQCE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=32CFA6Z4X6WKX&coliid=IHR3LNLW4TTZF&psc=1
You have to buy the cord for the SP here.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I1AZWEK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=32CFA6Z4X6WKX&coliid=I3V041TNSWFQW8
You may be able to combine this with this to get the desired effects. Once I find $200 in my couch cushions, I want to grab both and see how well it can keep a Chromebook (with mobile data) running on my next camping trip.
http://www.amazon.com/Intocircuit%C2%AE-Notebooks-Compatible-Thunderbolt-Connectors/dp/B00BB5VQCE
It is a bit overkill...but it will do wonders. If you want something smaller let me know. I currently have this and love it.
Which version do you mean? This? http://www.amazon.com/Intocircuit-PC26000-External-Battery-Smartphone/dp/B00BB5VQCE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449762561&sr=8-2&keywords=intocircuit
That's a good deal. It's [on sale for $55.96 in the USA as well] (https://www.amazon.com/Intocircuit-26000mAh-Capacity-Portable-External/dp/B00BB5VQCE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).
Yep, Qumi Q5. I grabbed a 26,000 mah battery on Amazon. There's a menu option to set it to 4:3. It's on the last or second-to-last menu section.
As a big warning about that battery: I have not empirically tested the life claim.
This is what I have been using:
Intocircuit 26000mAh High Capacity Power Castle Portable Charger External Battery Pack
I've had this since the SP1. So far no problems.
If you want to look into automation at all, look into NFC tags. They take advantage of the NFC antenna built into the battery in most android phones (NFC can transfer small amounts of data instantly between devices by holding them back to back. E.g. Pictures, contacts, links, etc). You program the tags to do various tasks (like dim the screen and turn your phone to silent), place the tag somewhere useful (in this example, maybe next to your bed), then just tap the back of your phone to it and boom, it sends instructions to your phone. Lot of amazing things you can do with those tags. Definitely something to look into in the future if not now.
Some NFC tags so you can check them out
Sorry, I've only bought the key chain style because I wanted something durable and reusable. These NFC stickers get good reviews on Amazon so you might look at getting those.
NTAG203 Chip
Here, you can use these! $12 for 10 NFC tags.
These work great and are a lot of fun to use for all kinds of automation. I use an android phone and have a tag setup that will allow my friends to access my wifi by placing their phone on it.
You can buy some NFC Tags to automate some actions you usually do.
For example you put one of the Tag in your car and when you touch it with the phone it turns to Car mode.
When you get to the work you can have one tag in you desk that turns notifications off/volume down and turn data/wifi on/off
And when you get home you can have another tag somwhere close to your door so notifications is on again.
and so on
I got the ring 3D model here
I got the tags from here
I dropped the tag in acetone, and let it sit for a couple hours. After I pulled it out, I re-wrapped the coil tighter and superglued it to the ring. Then I put some black electrical tape around the chip for added protection.
It actually works pretty well, but the range was shortened quite a bit.
Hey guys,
The DAC and amp guide here seems a bit old and I'm a bit of a newbie so I figured I'd ask here.
Here is my current equipment at my work desk:
These are currently connected using a simple 1/8th to 1/8th audio cable, but the end result sounds awful and looks ugly as well since the 1/8th cable has to be plugged in to the front.
I would like to hook up the laptop to send audio to the speakers, I don't usually use headphones. The speakers use RCA and 1/8th as input, but I'd like to use RCA because those inputs are behind the speaker and won't clutter my desk. In an effort to accomplish this AND improve the sound quality a bit, should I get a DAC? And should I consider switching speakers or do you guys think these are ok?
Ideally, I'm looking for the DAC to run off of AC/USB power since I intend to leave it plugged in 95% of the time. A rotary volume dial would be ideal but isn't strictly necessary. Do I need something like these? And if yes, which one would you recommend?
PS - Could something like this Fiio D3 work maybe? Not sure what kind of adapter would be needed, but it seems unlikely.
Out of everything you have listed I think you should get these instead.
DT 990 Premium (250ohm):
http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-DT-990-Pro-250-Professional-Acoustically-Applications/dp/B0011UB9CQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1396410317&sr=1-1
ATH-M50x:
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR86/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396410360&sr=8-1&keywords=ath-m50
As for Amp/DACS:
Schiit Magni/Modi:
http://www.amazon.com/Schiit-SCH-07-Magni-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00CICPMA6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1396410429&sr=1-1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CICPN0K/ref=s9_simh_gw_p23_d0_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=042YMDTAE4G9HN1Q9AF0&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1688200382&pf_rd_i=507846
Some great USB DAC's (some with integrated headphone amps) to consider, from lowest price to highest:
What about this one? But thanks a lot for the info, I will definitely invest more time into researching on this topic. dont want to spend $400 on speakers and only get half the quality just because of sub-par input.
I would look at getting a better DAC, the DAC on a motherboard is usually one of the cheaper parts.The Behringer UCA202 is better than most motherboad DACs, and even sound cards. The Schiit Modi is really popular over at /r/headphones, and I also know that FiiO makes some quality DACs. Also, the aux cables don't really matter at this price point.
You could try rewiring your speakers and see if that has anything to do with the interference. If your looking for a DAC that connects to your PC and your AMP to get rid of the interference you could give the Schiit Modi a try. It is a high quality DAC that should give you better sound quality than your MOBO and should help with the interference. /r/audiophile might be able to help you out more.
Gaming is a totally different story from what the people here are buying their headphones for (mostly). Personally, if you just want a solid pair of headphones, I like and always recommend the Audio Technica ATH M50. Now, these will plug just fine into your pc BUT if you want some proper listening gear use the rest of that money and a bit more to get the Schiit Magni headphone amp and the Modi DAC. If they're gaming headphones though, you really don't need that.
Depends on your price range. A great starter DAC is the FiiO E10K which has a DAC and an amplifier built in, highly recommended
The next step up would be for the Schiit Modi although, it doesn't have a built in amp and requires the companion piece Schiit Magni
Those are the two I would recommend for sub $100 and $200
You could always try /r/audiophile and /r/headphones for more advice
I might try this I guess.
http://www.amazon.com/Consumer-Electronic-Products-Headset-Buddy/dp/B00ENFA3GO/ref=pd_sim_e_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=005TBEPFRV33JC2QGS0Z
The best piece of advice I can give you, is stay away from dedicated a PS4 headset.
Grab yourself one of these and then you have a few options.
You can either buy a PC gaming headset (going to be better quality than what you can find solely for the PS4). Or better yet, but a wicked paid of dedicated audio headphones, and a clip on mic. Since you're going to be using the cable I posted above, it's going to end up being a lot better quality for audio, and a mic is just a mic anyways.
There aren't any solid solutions that will be both device agnostic and inexpensive, unfortunately. If you end up sticking with the X360, my favorite has been the XBox 360 Wireless Headset. Alternatively I had an extra set of Plantronics M Series earloop and eartips that I stuck onto the 'set and I find them to be much more comfortable / better at remaining in place. In all, with the optional kit, can run you from $25-$40 (sometimes you'll find a dirt cheap sale on the communicators somewhere, especially for like the MW3 edition). Personally I wouldn't go any higher in cost for an X360 solution, unless you go full-blown with an Astro Mixamp Pro and a favorite, high quality headset (expect to spend anywhere from $200-$500 altogether, or higher if you go really nuts).
A solid, dollar for dollar, PC / PS4 solution would be to get the SteelSeries v2 paired with an adapter like this ($60-$80 solution, depending). The DS4 has a 3.5mm jack that will support in-game sound as well as chat. The downside to it is it's a little underpowered. A lot of people don't have issues with it, but I'm rather picky. Thankfully the SteelSeries v2 only has a 32 Ohm impedance and an accompanying low-ish sensitivity level. So they don't take much to drive, but still -- to me the sounds for anything on the DS4 are a little muddy. To forego it, you would need to spend a little more money. Next step up, which works great for the PS4, would be the Sony Wireless Gold for around $80, but while it's a great solution for the PS4 I find it subpar on the PC. To get better sound out of the PS4 you would have to go the Astro Mixamp Pro route.
For PS4 you could also go the opposite direction in pricing and get the $12 PS Vita Earbuds and just shove those in the DS4 jack. While still an inline mic (will be picking up a lot of ambient noise) these are far better than what you can get out of the packaged earbud / mic with the PS4. If your soundcard doesn't support mic input via the headphone jack and only has the separate 3.5mm, can always use another adapter that goes in the reverse. Or just simply save up for a different headset for PC.
It depends. Many single 3.5 mm jacks are combo jacks, meaning that they are both audio in and out. If so, you can use an adapter like this one.
Found it:
You need this off Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Headset-Buddy-Smartphone-Blackberry-01-PC35-PH35/dp/B00ENFA3GO
Then a regular Aux cable from PC headphone to the microphone plug of that thing above.
It's only a single plug or is it a double plug? Usually, 2 rings are for left and right audio and the 3rd is for mic afaik. If it has 2 plugs (usually pink and green) then you'll need a Y converter for it to work correctly like this www.amazon.com/Headset-Buddy-Computer-Smartphone-Blackberry/dp/B00ENFA3GO
If you can provide some pictures or details about the headset we can tell you exactly what you'll need
It's a splitter, pink end is mic, green end is for headphones and then the other end plugs into the 3.5mm headphone jack in the laptop. The adapter is called headset buddy and is on amazon: Headset Buddy PC Computer Headset to 3.5mm Smartphone Adapter for iPhone, Android and Tablets (PC35-PH35) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ENFA3GO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7syVAbC83RMTJ
You'd need something like this and hope your laptop supports audio input and output from a single 3.5mm jack.
I believe you are looking for this
Headset Buddy: PC Computer Headset to 3.5mm Smartphone Adapter for iPhone, Android and Tablets (PC35-PH35) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ENFA3GO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MXLlyb08PR2B5
You need an adapter that is CITA compliant. They can be found easily on Amazon, but beware of bad quality.
http://www.amazon.com/Headset-Buddy-Smartphone-Blackberry-01-PC35-PH35/dp/B00ENFA3GO/ref=sr_1_11?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1427812701&sr=1-11&keywords=headphone+adapter
I myself am a recent transfer from the 360 to the One, and I brought my Razer Charcharias with me. Bought the adapter, and the second adapter that was CITA compliant and it crapped out on me in about a month.
Honestly, I think it's a better idea to go with the XO4's that are made for the One, rather than bringing the old tech up to the new level. The removal of all that extra wire clutter is amazing, and it's a direct plug and play, no extra bs needed.
Not sure how the headset works for XBONE but on PS4 I'm using SteelSeries Siberian V2 (about $60-70) and using an adapter like this to plug into my controller. Has volume control and self mute but unfortunately it doesn't have separate controls for voice/game.
You could try the Schiit Sys passive preamp. Takes two sources and puts it into one audio output.
http://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Audio-SCH-13-Passive-Preamp/dp/B00K6Q2A4C/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408305192&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=Schist+sys
I assume you won't be playing both computers at the same time and expect them to both come out the speakers at the same time, yes?
I already have the DAC, that's why I'm trying to find a way to make that work, instead of buying something new, but I'm having trouble finding a suitable solution. Do you think this would work:
Buy 2 of these.
For the laptop, use a 3.5mm to RCA to connect to the ADC, and then a coaxial cable from the ADC to the DAC.
Same thing for the Xbox, but with a toslink cable from the ADC to the DAC.
This way I can switch between the Xbox and Laptop, AND I can increase the volume, and it only costs me around $30.
Or should I just spend around $60 and get something like this?
you just need a phono preamp and maybe a source selector to switch between the turn table and whatever other source you would want. The JBL's have a built in amp.
here is a phono preamp
here is a source selector
That sounds like a nice DAC. Since I have been really happy with the Topping TP-22 amp, I was actually looking at eventually getting the Topping D30 DAC (~$120) which I have read good reviews about. It doesn't have any analog input features though.
I have been looking up a few products that might solve my lack of inputs, and it seems hard to find a budget preamp with at least 3 inputs (or maybe I don't know where to look).
With just looking through Amazon, I did find a few inexpensive input switchers, and some of them have passive volume potentiometer nob.
The most basic products I saw were things like this $19 (after shipping) switch box, or this $25 larger switch box. Some of the reviews of this larger box make me question quality of that switch knob, but the general consensus seems that it's fine unless you're really trying hard to find flaws. The smaller 3-source box doesn't really have many reviews.
For about twice the price of that is this interesting $60 switch with a volume potentiometer. It took me a while to figure out why a passive device needs to be plugged in, but one of the reviewers explained very nicely that the powered circuit is for relay switches when changing sources and for powering LEDs. The audio path itself is completely passive.
For the same price of $60, there is a USA made similar product (Schiit Sys passive preamp) that looks fantastic and simple, but only has 2 inputs.
After finding that Schiit product, I began to look further into that company and was really impressed by this Schiit Saga preamp. It has more than enough inputs, but it doesn't really fit my budget right now at $350. Some reviews I read today suggest that it has a very transparent sound and the remote control volume control is a nice feature. Reviews noted that the tube feature (which apparently can be bypassed) doesn't really do anything hugely impressive to the sound, but at least no one complained about it (and it looks pretty cool).
And finally I found this Emotiva BasX PT-100 for $299, which is also more than I'm planning on spending right away, but the fact that it is a multi-input preamp along with a DAC, it would suit all my needs, plus more. This may be similar to what you have. One thing I noticed though with the Emotiva DAC is that the website says the USB input goes up to 24/96k, whereas several other DACs I was looking at (including the Topping D30) have USB input up to 24/192k. If you have any thoughts about this, I would be interested in hearing about it. The Emotiva does support that higher quality on the other digital inputs though. Overall the Emotiva may be the best feature-per-dollar item I have found so far.
I think if budget wasn't an issue I would continue to do some research to compare if the Emotive PT-100 alone would be just as good or better than pairing a Topping D30 DAC with the Schiit Saga preamp (which together would end up being at least $470+ depending on Schiit shipping). Right now though I'm going to try to keep the cost as low as possible and consider something $60 or less. (In other news... I ordered a Dayton Audio 12" powered subwoofer last week which should be here on Monday. I'm really excited about that.)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K6Q2A4C/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ICN48Q/
you can add a passive preamp
I have no idea about the one linked, I just posted it as an example.
I want more volume
I have a Project Debut Carbon, Audioengine 5 Powered Speakers, and a Schiit Mani Phono Stage.
I just hooked everything up, and I turned the volume up all the way on the speakers and, I'd want it to be louder.
Schiit Audio SCH-13 Sys Passive Preamp - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K6Q2A4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N5apyb0J3D0W6
Is this what I'm looking for?^^^^^^^
Essentially I would connect my Schiit Mani Phono Stage into this Passive Preamp and then back into my speakers for higher volume control?
A passive volume attenuator should work like this schitt one. They’re very simple.
Schiit SYS Volume Control and 2-Input Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K6Q2A4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LPjZDbF9M6917
I’ll try that out in a few minutes when I get home!
this is the current level controller I bought
but I bought this one today to work with the chrome cast audio I bought as well
Hey, I use Yamaha HS8's and I needed something that could connect my audio interface (Tascam US-1800 for computer audio) and my Apple TV (for airplay) to the the monitors. I got a Schiit Sys, which is a passive preamp that allows you to switch between two inputs and control the volume. Check it out, I love it and it does it's job really well, and it seems to be really well made. Maybe it can solve your problem. Here's a link to it on Amazon, where I bought mine.
It sounds like getting a line level output that I can plug my iphone into is a good idea. Would something like this be good? Or am I going down the wrong path? thanks http://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Audio-SCH-13-Passive-Preamp/dp/B00K6Q2A4C/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1452203068&sr=8-5&keywords=Preamp
http://www.amazon.com/Axxess-AALC-Controller-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B003FPD3IS
http://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O
http://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Audio-SCH-13-Passive-Preamp/dp/B00K6Q2A4C
Oh hey, I have the answer to this.
You can get a little plug in for your iPhone that is just a mic in adapter and will accept a line in. Playing audio over it while taking video will override your phone’s mic.
Let me see if I can chase down the adapter...
https://www.amazon.com/Headset-Buddy-Line-level-Smartphones-iPhone-Mic-Line/dp/B00OAW85ZG
This should be it. It’s fun as hell for making silly “Polaroid” music videos by playing a song you made from a source while just filming something happening.
Edit: Also it works even with the headphone adapter.
Got it. A product like this should do the trick, needing only level and possibly balanced/unbalanced adjustments...
https://www.amazon.com/Headset-Buddy-Line-level-Smartphones-iPhone-Mic-Line/dp/B00OAW85ZG
And in the 'targed ads are creepy' category: minutes after I posted the JK Audio reference above, I received an ad from JK Audio... a printed brochure IN THE FRICKIN' U.S. MAIL!!! How do they do that???!! (/s, of course.)
If your phone has an audio jack you can use a cheap cable like this, but if you need it via lightning I don't know if there's a cheap solution. There's the Line 6 Mobile In but that's $100.
Use this adapter to pull audio from your sound board. Makes the audio so much better than the internal mic or even quality external mics. Line In audio adapter for 3.5 mm
i use the headset buddy line in cord, works like a treat, only 20$ too (!!!!)
cop one here:
https://www.amazon.com/Headset-Buddy-Line-level-Smartphones-iPhone-Mic-Line/dp/B00OAW85ZG?crid=3BGPZCC2HTJIX&keywords=headset+buddy+line-level+3.5mm+audio+input+adapter+for+iphone&qid=1537290796&sprefix=headset+buddy&sr=8-1-fkmrnull&ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmrnull_1
Yup. It's a odd. A lot of those connector kids seem to be audio > digital, so you'd need an adapter to step the line out to an audio jack, then run it through a connector kit (like iRig), to convert it back to digital... it seems like you should able to cut out the middle bit.
I found this mic connector which might work...
It was this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAW85ZG/ ... it's always just been hit or miss!
adapter (tell me if it’s the wrong link)
I'd just use the one you're currently using, and get a 3.5mm to 1/4" adapter. A different/new cable wouldn't really affect sound quality if that's what you're looking for.
There are many options, probably your cheapest is to use a set of headphones (even a set of earbuds, even tho they'd probably suck for piano music) on the keyboard itself.
​
If you REALLY want to output to a computer and listen through the computer headset, you'd need to get a cable to go from the output of the piano to the line in of your computer - just know there may be latency induced in this setup causing it to sound a bit weird as you play.
​
I can't tell from the manual, but I'm guessing the jack on the psr-260 is a 1/4" stereo jack? Your current headset is it USB or is it 1/8"? if it's 1/8" and the keyboard has a 1/4" jack, you can get an adapter from Amazon fairly cheap like : https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-6-35mm-Female-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B01D82XXGO/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_267_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CG04RASEQKH0XXVPD71V
​
The most expensive path would be to setup a virtual instrument on the computer, get a MIDI to USB adapter and connect the midi of the instrument to the computer and use the virtual instrument to generate the sound as you press the keys - but this would require a bunch of extra hardware and software.
Okay, I saw your post in another help thread. It sounds like you have a headset that you want to plug into your PC. I assume your PC has separate ports for the headphones and microphone. Something like this would work. If the ports on the PC are 6.3mm, just add these adapters to the ends as required.
truthfully you dont need a dac/amp for the pc37x, it helps but its really unnecessary for gaming. I bought mine because i love to listen to high quality music and sound editing. But thats up to you to decide what you want, below are links to the things i would suggest
something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Conwork-Extension-Auxiliary-4-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B01DRQFF94/ref=sr_1_9?crid=50NIYL5HIDX6&keywords=3ft+microphone+cable+extention&qid=1558729567&s=electronics&sprefix=3ft+microphone+%2Celectronics%2C157&sr=1-9
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-6-35mm-Female-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B01D82XXGO/ref=sr_1_5?crid=18M6RPIPP89QG&keywords=3.5mm+to+1%2F4&qid=1558729595&s=gateway&sprefix=3.5mm+to+%2Caps%2C166&sr=8-5
> mic goes to channel 1 speaker goes to phones. The speaker goes to phones is what is throwing me off, should it not be the headphones (a40) that goes into phones through the TRRS adapter you suggested?
Yes that's exactly what I mean. The TRRS adapter would be something like this one. The headset goes in the base of the 'Y', and that splits the headset out to two 3.5mm ports- one is 'mic' (which connects the headset microphone to channel 1), the other is 'speaker' which connects the headset speakers to the Phones output. You'll want some 3.5mm to 1/4" phono adapters to plug into the board's 1/4" connectors.
Consoles are a whole separate issue. I can't speak for PS4 as I only have an Xbox.
What you'll need to do is use the 3.5mm TRRS headset port on the bottom of your controller. If you have an older controller without that port, MS makes a plug-in adapter which gives you the 3.5mm port. You plug into that a TRRS Splitter (note this is similar to what you used for the headset, but the genders are reversed- the base of the 'Y' is male, and it goes into the device).
From there, we just reuse the connectors that go to the computer. The cable that connects the computer's speaker out to ch5/6 gets reused to plug into the Xbox TRRS adapter speaker out, and the cable that connects the board's aux send to the computer's mic input port goes to the Xbox TRRS mic port. If you want to keep both wired up you can, but you'll need a splitter for the Aux Send cable and another 3.5mm to dual mono 1/4 cable, this one will plug the Xbox's speaker out into Ch4/5 on the mixer.
BTW if you need a stereo 3.5mm to dual 1/4" mono cable, here's one. The white one is left, red one is right channel.
If you want to plug in Xbox, AND PS4, AND PC at the same time without swapping cables you will need a bigger mixer. I suggest check with me before you order one.
-----
You say the sound playing on the phones is 'off', do you mean it sounds bad or it doesn't play? I'm guessing maybe your TRRS adapter has the wrong genders on it and thus you aren't splitting things right...
You could also dump the A40s and go with a headset that has dual stereo minijacks natively like this one for $15. If you got that, you'd just get two 3.5mm to 1/4" phono adapters, use them to plug the green (speaker) plug into the Phones port and the red (mic) plug into Channel 1.
No reason an RCA to 1/8 converter wouldn't work that I can think of. Now for when it comes to 1/4 to 1/8, I use this and this
Combining audio isn't as simple as duplicating it unfortunately. You'll want something like this. The problem with this is that it uses 1/4 inch stereo jacks so if you have 3.5mm audio jacks you will need adapters to convert 3.5mm to 1/4 inch like these.
I didn't recommend the Korg because I don't have any personal experience with it. I really don't think you could go wrong with either though. Definitely watch video reviews for both and make the most educated decision you can. You can get an adapter for the headphone jack and use your normal headphones without issue. Something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D82XXGO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apap_ft4PvrNlCjEJv
I'm off to bed now but if you have other questions, you can reply to this or pm me and I'll answer when I can.
Unfortunately he can't just go from the Scarlett interface to the speaker/monitor without an amplifier. The interface is only powerful enough to send signal to the computer or headphones.
You'll need to set it up in this chain: Scarlett headphone out >> [1/4" to mini stereo] (https://www.amazon.com/Ugreen-6-35mm-Female-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B01D82XXGO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1478886878&sr=8-5&keywords=1%2F4+to+3.5+mm) >> [mini stereo to stereo RCA] (https://www.amazon.com/Gemini-PH62089-Stereo-Mini-Male-RCA-Male/dp/B0001GAOE0) >> RCA plugs into amp (search speaker amplifier on Amazon) >> lastly, go from amplifier to speaker/monitor ... the applicable cable for this depends on what type of amplifier you buy and whether it has raw copper outputs or 1/4" outputs. For 1/4" outputs use 2 of what theknyte posted, one for each speaker.
Audio setups can be annoying but this is precisely how I would do it.
Man, I'm still confused. Mind showing me exactly what I need on Amazon?
Edit: I ordered this for the headphones: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01D82XXGO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AKXVBT49GGF3B&psc=1
And I ordered this for the mic: https://antlionaudio.com/products/antlion-audio-xlr-power-converter
Is that correct?
Yeah it's a shame how hard these things are to fix. That's true, or even an adapter like this if you want to be able to use existing wired headphones
this thing fixes that problem
LOL what I use is a bit expensive, a SoundBlaster E3. I got it for it's variety of other features that were important to me and I use it mostly as a USB sound card + headphone amp... That I occasionally detach when I game in the living room, don't want to disturb anyone, and can't have cables my dogs might trip over.
The specific $20 model I spoke of above was: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N03YC49/
Edit:
Another one to consider, from a more reputable brand and with a more compact, cleaner design: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HRYAP1K/
I like this solution. Griffin Bluetooth Adaptor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HRYAP1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_U6fuOgYHuvL75
It works well with any headphones, and I just plug it into an aux cable for the car. Lasts for 5-6 hours per charge and can work while charging.
All I'm finding are phones like the ES100 or things like https://www.amazon.co.uk/Griffin-Bluetooth-Headphone-Adapter-iPhone/dp/B01HRYAP1K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1521496835&sr=8-4&keywords=bluetooth+adapter+headphone . Which completely defeat the point in getting a decent pair of wired earphones, it's all the downsides and none of the pros of getting wireless earphones.
Is there anything with the media control and mic, without having to pass the sound out through them?
GOD FSCKING DAMMIT.
Does anyone like Fiio make a battery-powered, bluetooth-enabled amplifier? Something like the E5 with bluetooth would be ideal. I'm sure there exists some adapter to go from USB-C to audio, but I do a lot of woodworking & garage puttering, and the addition of an adapter would be a failure point waiting to happen. But if I phone went in my pocket and stayed there (or plugged into the wall) and my headphones just terminated at a little clip-on doohickey...that wouldn't be so bad.
EDIT: I'll put away my angst, the future is now.
You could just get some helmet speaker like this and using a cheap bluetooth remote like this. You could also take apart some good headphones (maybe some Koss Porta pro's) and with some double sided tape, install them in your helmet.
If you happen to live in FL I could give you a BT headset. I have a pair of Uclear Vybe's that I stopped using ever since I got a Cardo Packtalk.
Bluetooth Adapter (has 3.5mm input to make wired-only headphones wireless via BT
Wireless cable to enable BT for MMCX-based connectors
You need an adapter to split the TRRS connector on your headset to a TRS headphones and TRS mic jack.
Like this.
You need an audio splitter for a headset like that to work. They are like $5 on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I3A47KM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_HJHyIlcvynzTY
Grab a microphone splitter cable with 2 males and one female. Link
What kind of headset is it? It sounds like it only has a single plug on the end, is that right? PCs often don't have a 'combo jack' to support single-plug headsets, you might need a headset splitter to separate the single combo plug into headphone and microphone plugs.
If it has a combo jack (the kind of jack used on a lot of smartphones, for example) then it can work. If yours has separate headphone and mic jacks then you'll need a headset splitter cable to use it.
You might need to install Asio4All in order to get it working right, though. It's been so long since I've tried this that I can't say for sure.
You could get an adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/KINGTOP-Headset-Splitter-Computer-Version/dp/B01I3A47KM?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_9
But be careful if you are using Apple earbuds as the positioning of the ground and mic is different (linked adapter doesn’t work for Apple buds).
As an example: https://www.amazon.com/KingTop-Headset-Splitter-Computer-Version/dp/B01I3A47KM/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_tr_t_3/131-0097483-2778019?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=15V8849FXBJJR8J1DYQQ
I got a message my other comment was deleted, so let me try again.
Gotcha. There is this one that separates the mic and headphones. And here is another with Prime shipping.
Something like this might work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I3A47KM/
But afaik there are two versions of the 4pin 3.5mm jack.
Not sure what the the PS4 uses.
Looks like you need one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/KINGTOP-Headset-Splitter-Computer-Version/dp/B01I3A47KM/
It might be a common issue with these headphones. One of my friend had static noise ONLY the dongle. I've heard some people have issue without the dongle.
I had a similar issue with Cloud I that doesn't have the dongle. Fixed it by installing a random sound card i had lying around, i didn't even plug the audio jacks into the soundcard, no clue why it fixed it. Also i noticed the static noise was only present when my foot was near the PSU power cable.
I don't think there are many fixes to it other than trying different ports in front and back of your case or maybe try buying extra PCI USB card or usb hub or something like that (it may or may not fix). You can also try rereouting some of your cables in and out of pc. Or you could ditch the dongle and buy a audio jack splitter, something similar to that one: https://www.amazon.com/KINGTOP-Headset-Splitter-Computer-Version/dp/B01I3A47KM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=headset+splitter&qid=1554846811&s=gateway&sr=8-3 . You will lose 7.1 surround but most people say that the surround isnt that great anyways and they prefer stereo.
Thanks for the reply, and sorry for the delay. I've been slammed at work and haven't really had a ton of time to troubleshoot.
​
I did a few more troubleshooting steps, taking your advice to try with a headset that does not require a splitter. I was also previously using an extender cable which I forgot to mention that was greatly making things worse, although it wasn't the sole source of the problem. Here are my findings:
​
I would say that there is almost no difference between the single plug headset + splitter and the double plug headset. So ranking everything in terms of what is causing feedback from most to least:
​
So it seems like my options are:
​
However, I have yet to find a way to completely eliminate feedback. So still looking for any help that anyone has to offer.
I got one of the Smraza bundles that has a power supply with a push button to turn it off & on.
I have a 3D printed NES case (http://pi-tendo.com/) that I enjoy though I wish it had a fan. I got it months ago before the whole craze really started so your case from Amazon is similar though a lot cheaper. When doing a lot of rewinding / fast forwading in SNES9x I've seen the thermometer icon come up on screen from time to time. I have heatsinks but I 'm guessing they are a little smothered because of the ventilation (or lack thereof).
That being said, I've built a few devices for people and I went with this and they've been very pleased: https://www.amazon.com/Smraza-Starter-Raspberry-layers-Heatsinks/dp/B01LWURJMI/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493057841&sr=1-14&keywords=raspberry+pi+3
Has a fan and heatsinks and you build it in layers, little more work to be done putting it together but no harder than making a Lego set.
I mean, there are cables with switches in them.
The case I have on the way has one built in.
Located here: Smraza 5 in 1 Starter Kit for Raspberry Pi 3 2 B with 9 layers Case, 5V/2.5A Power Supply ,1 pcs Fan, 3 pcs Heatsinks and Micro USB with On/Off Switch SW13 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWURJMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.KFDzbTV4WHQR
Or, this is pretty cool too.
JBtek® Raspberry Pi & Arduino Male to Female USB Cable with ON / OFF Switch - Easy Start / Reboot ! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UR321B6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dMFDzbSG5E427
I got this one below. It works great and the fan can run off 3 or 5v. Also the power supply cable with on/off is nice to have.
Smraza 5 in 1 Starter Kit for Raspberry Pi 3 2 B with 9 layers Case, 5V/2.5A Power Supply ,1 pcs Fan, 3 pcs Heatsinks and Micro USB with On/Off Switch SW13
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWURJMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_qUKuzbTCWKFKQ
Greetings!
I got the two-way mirror from a glass company called Academy Glass.
You can find boards of wood from most hardware stores, such as Home Depot.
The wood glue, stain, varnish caulking, screws, and nails were purchased from my local RONA.
The television was a used television.
The Raspberry Pi, micro-SD card, and Raspberry Pi Case were all purchased off of Amazon.
My dad already had the tools I needed, but you can rent these from some hardware stores if you need them.
I bought mine off amazon.
Smraza Case for Raspberry Pi 3 B+ with Fan Cooling and Heatsinks, 5V/2.5A Power Supply with On/Off Switch, Case for Pi 3B+ 3 Model B Plus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWURJMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gzvLBbGFQ301W
Thanks! Maybe I will get a fan after all. I like how this kit comes with everything https://www.amazon.com/Smraza-Raspberry-Cooling-Heatsinks-include/dp/B01LWURJMI but there are some bad reviews about the fan dying. Let me know if you know of a better setup
The case/Kit I bought for my Pi3 has enough space for a heatsink on the bottom chip along with 3 heatsinks total.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LWURJMI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm thinking about using this case as it includes a fan and a power switch. I'm a little worried about the switch because I've read around that it pulls restricts power to the PI. Suggestions?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LWURJMI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500219008&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=raspberry+pi+3+case&psc=1
Just get a headphone splitter. They’re 4-5 bucks.
Does the headset contain 1 connection for mic and 1 for audio? If so you need a Y splitter. https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Audio-Splitter-Speaker-Headphones/dp/B005GNQNHU
If it only has 1 connection for both audio and mic and you can't hear game audio, it might require changing something in the settings on the Xbox.
I wish I could help you out more but I don't own that headset.
http://www.amazon.com/Portable-Charging-Microsoft-Surface-Windows/dp/B00P3CIVYW/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1420612880&sr=8-27&keywords=surface+pro+3++charger
and
http://www.amazon.com/Intocircuit%C2%AE-Notebooks-Compatible-Thunderbolt-Connectors/dp/B00BB5VQCE/ref=pd_sim_sbs_pc_12?ie=UTF8&refRID=19YQY83P4RY2FG1534G9
I don't understand this. It seems like you are just selling nfc tags.
Why is this a kickstarter when I can just buy nfc tags here:
http://www.amazon.com/NFC-tags-Writeable-Programmable-Money-Back/dp/B00CE3IC74
The only difference I can think of is that from amazon I know I will actually get the nfc tags, and on kickstarter I would say there is like a 70% chance I will get the nfc tags, probably sometime next year. Also yours are more expensive.
Yep, magnetic induction, so printing a copy of the "coils" wouldn't do anything.
However, you could pull the data from a LD tag, then write it to a cheap non-LD tag...
Edit: Found a 10-pack on Amazon for ~$12 USD. They've got 137 bytes of memory, I don't know how much space LD data takes, but it they don't have any protection, it seems doable.
here ya go
I'm positive the Headset Buddy works. I ordered something very similar to the Startech product listed from monoprice, said it was CTIA but did not work with the headset adapter.
http://www.amazon.com/Consumer-Electronic-Products-Headset-Buddy/dp/B00ENFA3GO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410536941&sr=8-1&keywords=headset+buddy
Cheap:
https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O
Expensive:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K6Q2A4C/
Expensive #2 (XLR so adapters are necessary):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001PGMNRG/
Put one of these in between source and speskers, with appropriate cables and adapters.
Whatever headphones you get I recommend one of these to go with them
Converts your standard wired headphones into Bluetooth great battery life and sound quality
Good if other phones ever decide to go the iPhone 7 route
Griffin iTrip Clip Bluetooth Headphone Adapter With Controls - Play, control and talk on your smartphone without wires https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HRYAP1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BzHczb98YJ2XV
The dongle is only slightly annoying. You can get a keychain that has a headphone plug on it to put the dongle on. I always have one with me, here’s a link to anyone who is interested https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSYT8HH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_F0F4Bb0ZP5XY6
I have these with my QC25s and they work pretty well. OT, not for GA, but there's also these cool QC25 bluetooth adapters for general use that work really well. https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Bluetooth-Adapter-QuietComfort-Headphones/dp/B01MTQGY69
I think the Nflight plus the bluetooth adapter for day-to-day make the QC25s a really good deal for light/occasional use. Also really good for a passenger.
Cool thing about the dual-shock as opposed to the 360 wireless controller is that they can be connected via bluetooth (if your mobo has it, if not this can be really cheap). Or just use the cable, either way these are fun controllers.
Step 1: Download and install Motionjoy Drivers.
Step 2: Download and install Better DS3.
Step 3: Setup your Better DS3 profile (I used the Xbox 360 setup).
Step 4 (Bluetooth and therefore optional): Connect your controller via bluetooth. Buy something like this Bluetooth 3.0 adapter. I believe the dongle needs to be at least Bluetooth 2.0 to connect the DS3.