(Part 2) Best camera & photo accessories according to redditors

This is why I have dash cams in my cars.

If you don't want to spend a ton of money on good cams, get This one. It's cheap, but it records decent video and has a date/time stamp, and that's all you need to prove in court that someone cut you off/brake checked you to prove you aren't at fault.

Tip: Put in a 16GB or higher SD card and set it to 3min files. Works the best.

So a few months ago, I gave myself a budget of $5000 for everything I’d need to be a One Man Video Army. Besides an empty Lowell hard case and a pair of headphones, I had nothing in the picture above before commencing the buying spree. The grand total ended up coming to around $5500 or so but I’m pretty stoked to have stuck fairly close to my initial budget.

Here's a detailed list of everything in the picture above:

ITEM | WHAT I PAID | COST NEW | LINK TO BUY NEW
:-- | :-- | :-- | :--
Panasonic GH5 w/Rode Videomic Pro, 2 SD cards and batteries|$1,000.00|$1,500.00|B&H
Lumix 12-35mm 2.8|$550.00|$900.00|Amazon
Mitakon 25mm 0.95 Prime|$300.00|$350.00|B&H
Sigma 50-100mm 1.8|$750.00|$1,100.00|B&H
Tokina 11-16 2.8|$250.00|$400.00|B&H
Viltrox EF-M2 Speedbooster|$150.00|$200.00|B&H
Manfrotto 502 Video Tripod|$400.00|$400.00|B&H
Tripod Bag|$25.00|$25.00|Amazon
Panasonic XLR Adapter|$300.00|$400.00|Amazon
Sennheiser Wireless Mic System|$450.00|$600.00|Amazon
LowePro Camera Bag|$75.00|$75.00|B&H
Neewer 3-Light LED 660 Kit w/Fovitec stands|$350.00|$350.00|Amazon
Kessler Slider w/tripod head|$400.00|$900.00|B&H
Hoya 43mm Filter Kit|$35.00|$35.00|Amazon
Hoya 58mm Filter Kit|$40.00|$40.00|Amazon
Feelworld F570 Monitor|$200.00|$200.00|Amazon
Zoom H6 Recorder|$250.00|$400.00|B&H
Neewer 5-in-1 Reflector|$20.00|$20.00|Amazonn

Given my budget, there really wasn’t much debate over what camera would best suit my needs. I’m doing a lot of paid corporate and event video work, but I also shoot films and documentaries. So the GH5 made the most sense given its quality, versatility, and value. I can transport and operate all of this stuff without the need for additional crew, which is especially nice when a client doesn’t want to pay for that.

I’ve shot a few films and several paid gigs with this set already and it’s working out well so far. Happy to answer any questions over why I chose one thing over the other. We all have our preferences with equipment :)

That's a $26,000 lens.

So is the price tag.

https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-200-500mm-Ultra-Telephoto-Canon-Cameras/dp/B0013D8VDQ

EDIT: Yes ok, it's not that exact one. I should have added an aggressive pedant disclaimer. It's still not something the average enthusiast is going to buy, which was rather the point.

Have you seen the Amazon reviews and customer photos on that thing?
Pretty funny
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B0013D8VDQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_show_all?reviewerType=all_reviews&pageNumber=1

26USD dash cam from newegg. I got one for this very reason (along with catching other happenings that would be internet worthy.) Invest in a better internet.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=0GH-000G-00001

Edit: Reddit effect, sold out. Look here, its the same stuff. (I got mine from ebay, no problems.)
grandzooby found the same one on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/2-5-inch-Vehicle-Recorder-Dashboard-Camcorder/dp/B0053DDNW6

Also check:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=dash+cam&_sacat=0

This is the one I got, I'm very happy with it.

Sigma 200-500mm Lens

Hi there. This is a genuine antique Japanese sword. Specifically, it's a [hira-zukuri](#t "flat cross section") [wakizashi](#t "short sword"). Please read my owner's guide for details on care, photography, appraisal and restoration. In particular, we will need more (and specific) photos of the blade. Mounts and blades are related but separate topics.

The fittings are typical middling-level Edo period (1603-1868) work; the [fuchi](#t "reinforcing metal collar on the hilt") and [kashira](#t "metal cap on the end of the hilt") done in [shakudo](#t "a black alloy of copper and gold") [nanako](#t "lit. fish roe, many small dots hand-punched") have suffered some white/green corrosion suggesting this piece has been stored in a wet environment (garage?). The [menuki](#t "palm ornaments") are interesting, a gold basket and something else in shakudo? I can't quite see (also you've shown them upside-down). Again a bit of corrosion in the shakudo. The [tsuba](#t "hand guard") looks to be an iron example — as is common — with a pictorial scene; I am not an expert in iron tsuba, so you may want to post in the tosogu forum of the Nihonto Message Board for an assessment of which school/tradition this piece would fall into. Finally, the [habaki](#t "metal reinforcing wedge that marries the blade to the scabbard") looks to be two-piece silver, usually these are silver jacket over copper but we can't see based on these photos. [Saya](#t "scabbard") is a typical black lacquered piece, totally standard.

As to the blade: please read the guide I linked above and get us the photos listed therein, especially of the tang. The patina on the tang, file marks, shape, peg holes, everything tells a story — and with any luck, there'll be a signature we can cross-reference against records. Oh, and please carefully wipe down the blade with a microfiber cloth, e.g. camera cloth to clean off any smudges and the like so we get the best results from the pics. But don't do anything to harm the existing polish! Simply wiping with a dry microfiber cloth is sufficient.

However, even without that, I can tell you a couple things. Unless I'm mistaking smudges or oil or something for hamon, the thing that immediately stands out is the wandering, randomized, patchy splashes of [hamon](#t "martensitic white edge steel from differential quenching") in the pattern known as hitatsura. That pattern is classically associated with the Soshu (Sagami province) school of classical smithing, one of the five major categorizations of Japanese smithing traditions. Also, a broad (profile) but thin (cross-section) hira-zukuri wakizashi is typical of this school. They tended to do a higher-temperature heat treatment resulting in the formation of nie, coarse visible martensitic particles which form various aggregate structures and effects in the steel. Done well, it's very prized and beautiful; done poorly, it's seen as a bit uncontrolled. The difference is subtle and I wouldn't venture a final guess on quality from just these photos, but it looks decent if not exactly masterful.

My gut feeling right now is that we are looking at a sue-Soshu (late Soshu) piece, 1500s or later, by one of the Tsunahiro 綱廣 line. They are decent swords but most of the later generations are not masterpieces or exceptionally valuable. You can see some representative examples, some in hitatsura, here / here / here and here. This is a significant guess on my part, I practice kantei (a "blind" appraisal game) but am not exactly a master at it. I'm more thinking out loud than making an actual appraisal right now. Let's get that hilt off and see the tang!

Thanks for this video! Glad I could hear this with out having been there. A few production notes:

Please do some establishing shots before or after the interview, don't get all ADD on us and start zooming in on the Water Suppression tower and the Processing Building.

Make sure she's in focus... for a majority of the video, the background was in focus.

Clean your lens! Low contrast areas where there was dirt or water was extremely evident.

A small shotgun mic would go a long ways to help distracting audio from getting in the way. Something lightweight and inexpensive like this

Try J cuts for your audio if you do transitions/edits. The abrupt audio and rapid, random cuts were distracting. Either play the whole thing front to back, un interrupted, or make tasteful edits. No point in just cutting to cut. Always record the full event, beginning to end, never start and stop while recording as you can always take stuff out in post.

The text at the beginning should be simple, lower thirds, and un-distracting. Throwing it up there all willy nilly does no one a favor.

Again, I'm not ungrateful here, just trying to give you some tips to up your production value. You've already done 90% of the work by being there with gear on hand, let's help you take it up a notch so it can be more enjoyable for us to watch! Thanks for your time and effort, let me know if you have any questions about production notes in the future. I'm sure I'll run into you at OG2 :)

UPDATE: (no video until I've worked this out)

GO BUY A DASH CAM. THIS IS THE ONE I HAVE AND ITS $21. Just needs an SD card. And an optional better mount. Mine is mounted behind my rearview mirror so you don't notice it and its hardwired in the same spot as my V1 so it automatically turns on with the car and starts recording.

UPDATE (cont.):

I seriously had to take a few hours to cool off and enjoy my vacation. Unfortunately I got back to the hotel after the managers had left.

Just spoke with the front desk manager who runs the show at night while the actual hotel managers are on during the day. He was super professional about it. Albeit, he's completely powerless in the situation but he took control, called everyone and setup a meeting for tomorrow morning.

Notes:

• He was completely shocked by the video.
  
• I had to tell the valet how to drive the SMG tranny is on tape.
  
• When another gentlemen comes up to the car and asks if its his, he responds with a laugh and says "Nope, but its mine for now!"
  
• He peels out of the hotel.
  
• The car goes airborne twice. Once entering the garage. And again as he goes down a slope and launches off a ramp that meets a right turn entrance a parking level.
  
• The wheels are burning at least 3-4 times.
  
• The valet laughs at the end to cap it off.
  
  New things:
  
  
• The valet turned out to be the supervisor.
  
• The valet is outsourced by the hotel and carries its own insurance.
  
• The other valets all knew about my car.
  
• The ramp he flew off, leads to another garage that I was able to park in tonight with another valet. Meaning that, he intentionally launched it off there instead of slowing down.
  
  Possible Solutions Discussed:
  
  
• Hotel
  
• Valet
  
• Food/Beverage
  
• BMW Inspection
  
• Repairs
  
• Future Stays
  
  The conversation went really well but again he's not the person in charge. Anyone capable of doing anything knows about it and will have a night to figure out how to appropriately respond.
  
  Sorry guys, no video yet until I have an answer. Another update will come tomorrow morning.

$10 cheapy.

$20 budget. My recommendation if you can't go higher.

Game Pad Keyboard

Red Swing Line Stapler There's a newer version as well.

Cleaning Cloth for monitors and glasses

Speakers Get any kind really. This is what I have and they are good for the money.

Timer - for when you tell your SO you will do something or to remember the roast in the oven.

Extra Monitor. Already have one? Add another!

Still have money left over? Try these sites:

Think Geek

Dude I Want That

Here you go. This is the one my buddy used. You can't read the license plate off of the video, but it works well for $20. It gets you the big picture. It sets thing up into like 3 minute segments and will over write the oldest one automatically.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0053DDNW6/ref=shptrk_scth

Everyone is recommending something cheap like a blue yeti or whatever, and honestly those mics are highly overrated. Get literally anything by Shure, Sennheiser, or Rode.

Here's a very popular one.

Kostet sportliche 26k$.

I got one a couple weeks ago after seeing so many crazy dash-cam videos and having a few close calls caused by other drivers. The one I got was probably the cheapest going because I didn't really know if I'd find it useful or not. I'm happy so far. The viewing angle is rather narrow but its compact enough, and the built in screen is kind of cool.

http://www.amazon.com/2-5-inch-Vehicle-Recorder-Dashboard-Camcorder/dp/B0053DDNW6/ref=sr_1_4?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1406034520&sr=1-4

Holy moly that mobile site is hard to look at.

Better: http://www.amazon.com/2-5-inch-Vehicle-Recorder-Dashboard-Camcorder/dp/B0053DDNW6

Gosky Universal Cell Phone mount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013D2ULO6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I bought it in 2012. It was $36 at the time.

An RX100 and a Zipshot Mini, whole kit weighs 460 grams with 20MP 10fps burst while shooting RAW on a 1" sensor.

I sold my 5D classic and shoot with this exclusively now, it has completely changed my possibilities as I ALWAYS have this kit with me. I'll likely get a 6D of 5D mkIII for video in the next year though.

Yongnuo YN-560 III

and

Yongnuo RF-603 Wireless Triggers

and an 8 pack of Eneloops will get you more power than the two Canon's you mentioned. I've been using my Yn-560 v1 for 2 years and it's taken lots of abuse and still fires whenever I need it to. Don't waste the money on a Canon speedlight, really. You can get a pair of these, enough triggers to fire them all and enough eneloops to shoot all day for what you're going to pay for the one, base model canon flash.

These are MANUAL flashes - meaning if you want more light, you dial in more light. If you want less light, you dial in less. I shoot my camera in manual because I like to control the settings I use, I also prefer to light like that as well. The one TTL flash I had was a Canon 550EX and it was shit. The mount was made of plastic and nearly fell apart in the 8 months I used it.

I own version I and III. Have used the old one the most, but love them both. Built well and not so expensive I'm going to be PISSED if it gets broken.

Sigma have been at it for a while. They realized they could make a lens that Canon/Nikon wouldn't want to make, and then sell it in just about every mount they could.

Mid-range primes are a great example. Nikon won't make them because they undercut the high-end stuff. Sigma are more than happy to put out a 150mm f/2.8, or a 30mm f/1.4 -- both of those lenses are like eight years old but really good.

Then they have the super high end stuff that Nikon or Canon just can't afford to make for one lens mount. Stuff like the 200-500mm f/2.8 that costs upwards of $25,000.

Even their "low quality" stuff is good. I have the 50-500mm f/4-6.3 and I love it, you're not going to get a lens like that from Nikon or Canon any time soon. It cost me $600 used.

Sigma have been putting out really interesting stuff for a while. The only true "budget" lens manufacturer these days are Tamron, they are putting out perfectly adequate products in the same focal length range as the big guys, only for cheaper. Sigma & Tokina have been innovating for a while.

Getting a 100-400 f/2.8 or something similar would be crazy expensive and large. If you're willing to do the bicep curls and fork over the dough... I guess it can be yours.

http://www.amazon.com/2-5-inch-Vehicle-Recorder-Dashboard-Camcorder/dp/B0053DDNW6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408806355&sr=8-2&keywords=dash+cam

I'm with this guy. Be very careful.

Get a reflector. What's a reflector? This is a reflector.

How do you use a reflector? This is how you use a reflector

Second u/TwiztedZero: Zeiss disposable pre-moistened wipes (i.e. the same ones used for cleaning eyeglass lenses) are great for general purpose maintenance upkeep: amazon.com/Zeiss-Pre-Moistened-Lens-Cleaning-Wipes/dp/B0030E4UIQ/

If you use a cloth, go microfiber (i.e. never anything paper that sheds fibers): amazon.com/MagicFiber-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths-PACK/dp/B0050R67U0/

Canon 50mm prime lens + a lens hood. Theyre supposed to arrive later today (:

E: Beaut

Do yourselve a favor and read the amazon reviews.

Of course it's a Sigma lens. They make great telephoto lenses. Like this one.

I don't know exactly what model of rig they are using. This one is similar. But there are a bunch out there if you search iPhone rig.

The mic looks like a Rode video micro.

The light could have been anything. If you Amazon search for LED on camera light, you'll see a lot of similar setups.

/u/Jameson2912 - with a $300 budget, you can get decent camera support, a low light lens and an external mic.

If you can stretch your budget by $19, I recommend a [$179.99 Panasonic 25mm f1.7] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=182012172949&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg), a [$59 Rode VideoMicro] (https://www.amazon.com/Rode-VideoMicro-Compact-Camera-Microphone/dp/B015R0IQGW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) and a [$79.95 3Pod V3AH Tripod with Fluid Head, Quick-Release Plate and a 65mm bowl] (https://www.amazon.com/3Pod-V3AH-Anodized-Aluminum-Quick-Release/dp/B00F8VU3CQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).

This will give you a steady platform with smooth pans and tilts, improve the camera's low light performance and improve your audio quality (as seen [here] (https://vimeo.com/146584593)).

You might also want to subscribe over at /r/PanasonicG7 - lots of knowledgeable folks there who can help you get the most out of your new camera.

Hope this is helpful, good luck with your new camera and best of the holidays to you and yours!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I09WHLW x 2 - Speedlights - $56

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Wireless-Speedlite-Receiver-Universal/dp/B00A47U22U - Wireless Trigger - $19

https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4 - Light Stands - $29

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Professional-Universal-Speedlite-Umbrella/dp/B00JJJR7PY - x2 - Cold Shoe - $22

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0132I34K4 - Octobox - $23

https://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Premium-Shoot-Through-Translucent-Umbrella/dp/B005ODKMOC - Shoot though umbrella - $14

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW - 5 in 1 reflector - $20

That brings you for a full starting light setup that can be used for headshots and starting boudoir for $183. And you even have flexablity in there to use a 1 light setup with reflector or use 2 lights. You would want a few sandbags to keep the gear stable, but I am not including those in the price.

Now for a background setup

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E6GRHBO/ref=psdc_3444601_t1_B00MTF6ZVC

Is a good basic stand but hard to fit under your budget with the above lighting gear.

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Studio-Collapsible-Backdrop-1-8x2-8m/dp/B00UWL02PU is also an okay starting backdrop, Grey can be turned into white or black. I will warn you that you will need a fabric steamer to get the lines out, but that is pretty much the same however you go with cloth. Another more expensive choice is to go with seamless paper, I love working with paper, but it is an ongoing expense to use it.

Now if you are going to make this her studio all the time, they make http://www.homedepot.com/p/EUCATILE-32-sq-ft-96-in-x-48-in-Hardboard-Thrifty-White-Tile-Board-HDDPTW48/205995949 that you can use to make a great background. Or to me the better option if you are going to use a room as a full time studio, paint the walls, put down hardwood or laminate, and you have a great studio setup.

https://www.amazon.ca/Gosky-Universal-Phone-Adapter-Mount/dp/B013D2ULO6/

Picture info:

• 28mm
  
• f2
  
• 1/30s
  
• ISO 800
  
  Flash trigger I used:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HVTSTI8
  
  Flash that I used (On full power):
  
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LEAYXY
  
  Setup:
  
  All in a line:
  Tripod with flash on top of it (pointed straight at model with no diffusion) -> trampoline with friend on it -> me with camera -> large wall behind me.
  
  
  I had my friend (the model) stand where he was going to do the flip, and used the autofocus to lock on to him. I then set the camera to MF so that the focus wouldn't move around from there.
  
  My friend then grabbed two handfuls of snow and did a backflip while letting go of the snow. I took the picture when he came between me and the flash. The light bounced off the wall behind me and lit him up. Without the wall, it would have just been a silhouette.
  
  EDIT: Formatting

First off, congratulations OP!!!

According to the EXIF, it was taken with a Sony DSC-RX100.

I'm wondering if OP actually fiddled with the Program AE settings (half-press shutter and select settings), or just set it to P and clicked.

The composition is great, as is the lighting (which I'd guess is a lucky accident given my recent experience shooting in a hospital room). Without a good camera sensor, the image quality of this picture would've looked like noisy garbage, though. (Was noise reduction applied in Photoshop or is the Sony that noise-free at ISO800?)

I purchased https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFG14ZT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The bag they come with is quite helpful as I put my mouse and keyboard and cables in the same bag.

They are lightweight but feel pretty good (I've bought camera tripods in the past that had paper thin aluminum)
I only use this when I take my Vive out to a friends house or if I'm temporarily setting up the vive in another room. 99% of the time I use my vive its on my wall mounts.

Tripod shot is Panasonic Lumix DMC-GM5 running a Sigma 350963 60mm F2.8 DN prime lens.

Handheld is Panasonic LUMIX GX85 with Lumix 25mm F1.7 prime lens.

I use fnord's WebM premiere plugin to export clips from the original film in WebM VP9. GFYCAT doesn't convert them so you are seeing full quality on your end.

Thank you so much! I seriously appreciate it!

I use a Lumix G7 with a 25mm lens. It may not seem like a cheap setup, but comparatively it's a bargain! A lot of people use a Canon DSLR for videography but god damn those are expensive. This does what I need and more, I can't recommend it enough!

I'm a slave to Adobe unfortunately, it's what I learned early on, so I used Premiere for video editing. I'd like to convert to something free, or at least not subscription based. Any suggestions?!

For gifs, "GIF Brewery 3" all the way!

Yours for the bargain price of $28,999.00

. MSRP @ $38,000.00

It depends on the look you're trying to achieve in your photo. Invest in a reflector/diffuser and it will help solve a lot of problems when it comes to harsh shadows etc..

Here's an okay enough video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xIEYhDYeC_A

Edit: I think I just got what you're trying to say. If you the photographer should be in the shadow while shooting or if your subject should be in the shadow while you shoot in the light. If your subject is in the shadow the light on them will be more diffuse (softer shadows). If you're in the shadow and the subject is exposed to light, the subject will be more exposed with harsher shadows. I still stand by my previous recommendation with an addition of a UV lens and a lens hood because it still all depends on the look you're trying to achieve in your photo. These tools just help you have better control of the light that enters your camera and how it falls on your subject.

What you are looking for is a lavalier mic (also called a lapel mic). They come in several different varieties. Do you want one that is wireless or one that is wired? The wireless ones are nice if you are moving around a lot or doing commentary away from your desk. The wired ones are nice because they don't require a battery pack and you never lose signal (not really an issue anymore). Tehre are also some that are made to plug into your cell phone so that you can record onto your phone.

For the best quality of wired lavs I would go with an XLR setup. You will have to spring for a mixing board or an audio interface, but you will get better sound quality and the ability to adjust your sound on the hardware. I suggest the Audio Technica Pro70 or the Shure SM93. You will also need to add a board to that as well.

If you go wireless you'll probably be paying much more than $200 for a decent lav mic. Probably $300-600 just for the mic and receiver. You'll also need a mixing board or audio interface on top of that.

There are also some budget options, like the Rode SmartLav+ which is pretty good for the price and you can record off of your phone or the 3.5mm input on your computer. You won't get as good of audio or the adjustment as an XLR setup.

There are also products like the invisilav that allow you to wear the mic underneath your clothing to hide it. I would definitely do some research on how to wear a lavalier mic to get the best sound. They can be pretty tricky sometimes because they can rub against your shirt/jacket or the cord can rub and make sound. Best of luck!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0053DDNW6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427731761&sr=8-1&keywords=Dash+cam&dpPl=1&dpID=41GB83LsWWL&ref=plSrch

I bought this yesterdya and i'm returning it. It does NOT remote pan or tilt, which makes it pretty useless. I bought this one instead. Sane good quality camera, also has 2-way talk AND can remotely pan. It does ther same cloud storage and it's video quality is the same.

The big thing about the Circle is that it's chargeable and portable. But most of the time it's going to stay in one place anyways and you can just unplug and plug it back into another outlet. Not really worth the extra 70 bucks to me.

PLUS, you can't view the Circle on a mac. it is only smart devices like tablets or phones. Lame....

If you stick with the T5i an 11-24 would be a "waste" of glass - hear me out. Part of the reason that lens is so massive is the amount of glass and witchcraft it takes to design an 11-24mm lens to cover a full frame sensor with a flange distance of 44mm. The crop sensor will not be able to make use of all that glass

You'll save a huge amount of money and weight by going with the Canon EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM - though it's variable aperture it's optimized for crop sensor cameras. It's definitely not as nice as the 11-24; however, it's 10% of the cost of the Canon 11-24! Check out some sample images, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised with the performance.

Disclaimer, I'm a 5D4 shooter and I love it - so it's hard to advocate against going full-frame with a great piece of glass like the 24-70!

I own this and it's amazing. It folds up really nicely, supports my t2i even with the tokina 11-16 f2.8. It has a forever home in my bag, and is invaluable while traveling. I will not travel without it.

Absolutely real and a bargain at $26k https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-200-500mm-Ultra-Telephoto-Canon-Cameras/dp/B0013D8VDQ

I'm actually the husband from this shindig, but I would suggest making sure it has good lighting. Most likely the venue won't have a perfectly lit spot for a selfie booth all ready to go (honestly some places might, but check/make some preparations) I work in production so I set up a pair of 500 watt photo floods with some 45" umbrellas on a pair of C stands (any stands will do I just had these on hand) if you can snag some cheaper stands on amazon this is a really quick easy way to get pro looking light where you want it. There's also tons of ready to go kits on Amazon like this, but I can't really vouch for any of them specifically.

You may want to chat with your DJ/photographer and ask if they have any of this equipment and would be willing to rent it. If you don't see yourself using it again or don't want to be the ones to set up/take it down.

When buying camera lenses, $1600 is peanuts.

Probably not going to be a super popular opinion but somebody already recommended the GX85 so I'm going to go with a different camera. Assuming that the 500 pound budget is including a body and a lens getting something like a refurbished em10 mkII is pretty nice. Sure it's not the best camera as it doesn't have an articulating screen very limited video support, which the MKIII "solves", and no 4k. But the camera is going to go for $200-350 refurbished, the MkII is a beast of a camera at that price with Olympus's famous 5 axis in body stabilization. This also giving you enough money to buy a very cheap but good prime lens such as the Panasonic 25mm 1.7

>I would suggest giving the 50mm a try

That is not a good idea. You don't want the largest aperture, you want a fast wide lens. When you put on a closer lens like the 50mm you then have to cut your shutter speed down to keep the stars from trailing, so in effect you aren't doing much better than you would be at 18mm, and you have a worse picture as a result because you are capturing less of the milky way.

Here are some good cheap lenses well suited to this

http://www.amazon.com/Samyang-SY16M-C-Aspherical-Angle-Cameras/dp/B00DEI38PY/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=1-1&keywords=2.0

http://www.amazon.com/Rokinon-FE14M-C-Ultra-Canon-Black/dp/B003VSGQPG/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=1-1&keywords=rokinon+2.8+14mm

Oculus Quest Travel Case
Xbox One S Controller
Eneloop Battery Charger with 4 AA Batteries
Google Chromecast
RAVPower 2-in-1 Wall Charger and 10000mAh Power Bank
VR Cover Oculus Quest Foam & Interface Basic Set
Mamut Touch Grip
WIDMOvr Plano Lens Adapter
1.5ft Right Angle 3.5mm Audio Cable
Beyerdynamic Custom One Pro Plus Headphones
Koss KSC75 Portable Stereophone Headphones
6ft Right Angle USB-C to USB Cable
MagicFiber Microfiber Cleaning Cloths
LensPen
Kleenex Wet Wipes Germ Removal For Hands And Face

Here's how to solve your audio problems.

You'll need to pic up a Lav Mic and a portable audio recorder. I'd recommend a Rhode Smartlav and a Zoom H2

The mic clips onto your shirt and plugs into the recorder. You set your recording levels and other settings like sample rate and bitrate (may take some experimenting to find your ideal setup), hit record, slip the recorder in your pocket and do your thing.

Afterwards you should have a decent quality sound file you can drop into your video editor and sync up with your footage.

One note is that it's easiest to sync up the audio track to the footage by having another microphone in the room recording you just like you did in this video, but make sure it's recording to a separate audio layer than the game audio so you can delete it and be left with just the game audio and the Lav track.

Depending on how long your ceremony is your camera settings might be capped to stop recording at 30 minutes so if you don’t have someone watching it then it might not record the whole thing. Also, the sound will probably be pretty crappy so I’d recommend getting one of these and having your officiant or FH wear it:

https://www.amazon.com/Rode-smartLav-Lavalier-Microphone-Smartphones/dp/B00EO4A7L0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=rode+smartlav+%2B&qid=1568152167&s=gateway&sprefix=rode+smart+la&sr=8-3

I don’t have much of an opinion on it it’s rude or not to ask a friend to record it, but it is a lot of pressure to put on someone!

Short answer: Yes, it will sound awful.

I am a professional videographer, so I may not know the most cutting-edge Hollywood techniques, but at the level I work at I would never try that. Better to find a workaround to not need the audio. If you want to get serious, here's a decent option for $100. If you've got $500, you can get a Tascam DR40 and a Rode NTG2 and it will give you fantastic audio that's very adaptable to difficult locations (although not anything as windy as the OC)

50mm

Simple cheap and good all around focal length that will challenge you to move closer to your subject.

EDIT: Alternatively, you can go wide angle for a little bit more with the 24mm

The kit lens is good because it can zoom across a wide range of perspectives but bad because it's "slow" in light gathering terms. This means that you'll be less able to get non-blurry shots as the lights get dimmer (sun set, indoors, dinner time lighting, etc).

So my suggestion would be to, assuming you want to take photos at dusk/night, get a fixed focal length prime lens. These lenses are bad because they can't zoom at all and so you have to use your feet to zoom but good because they can shoot in significantly dimmer light.

But which prime lens to get? You can get them at a reasonable price in the zoom levels of: 15mm, 17mm, 20mm, 25mm, and 42.5mm. I'd say the way to go would be to buy the G85 with the kit lens, use it, and see which focal length you take the most photos at or your favorite photos at. Some people suggest taping the zoom lens to be fixed at a focal length of whatever prime lens you might buy and shooting with that for a week or so to see if you can handle being stuck at that range.

• 15mm https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-LUMIX-LEICA-SUMMILUX-H-X015/dp/B00J8H7H48/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=15mm+f%2F1.7&qid=1564608134&s=gateway&sr=8-2
  
• 17mm https://www.amazon.com/Olympus-M-Zuiko-Digital-Thirds-Cameras/dp/B00CI3R4VU/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=17mm+f%2F1.8&qid=1564608233&s=gateway&sr=8-1
  
• 20mm https://www.amazon.com/PANASONIC-LUMIX-MIRRORLESS-Thirds-H-H020AK/dp/B00DJS830Y/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=20mm+f%2F1.7&qid=1564608313&s=gateway&sr=8-3
  
• 25mm Lumix https://www.amazon.com/PANASONIC-LUMIX-MIRRORLESS-THIRDS-H-H025K/dp/B014RD6RC0/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=25mm+f%2F1.7&qid=1564608151&s=gateway&sr=8-2
  
• 25mm Olympus https://www.amazon.com/Olympus-M-Zuiko-Digital-Thirds-Cameras/dp/B00HWMP0XG/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=25mm+f%2F1.8&qid=1564608237&s=gateway&sr=8-4
  
• 42.5mm Lumix https://www.amazon.com/PANASONIC-42-5MM-MIRRORLESS-OPTICAL-H-HS43K/dp/B00H36U69Y/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=42.5mm+f%2F1.7&qid=1564608146&s=gateway&sr=8-2
  
• 45mm Olympus https://www.amazon.com/Olympus-Zuiko-Digital-Silver-Cameras/dp/B0058G40O8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=45mm+f%2F1.8&qid=1564608241&s=gateway&sr=8-3
  
  A lot of people are also of the opinion that using a prime lens as a beginning photographer will help you get better quicker by limiting the range of things you can do (no more zooming) and forcing you to think more outside the box.
  
  Personally, I like the 15mm range for all around shooting (it's similar to the perspective a phone camera would give you). And I like the 42.5mm for specifically taking portraits, which I do a lot of when hanging out with friends. The Olympus lenses are worth considering if you can save some money by going with them. Theoretically they won't autofocus as quickly, but the difference should be negligible (we're talking milliseconds here).
  
  I'd also suggest looking at used lenses (ebay or Amazon's used marketplace give me the best results). Anything in good to excellent condition that says there's no mold or scratches on the glass will perform fine. You can usually expect to save about 20% of the new price by going used, sometimes more. The majority of my lenses are used and I've never had a single issue.

I use this mount and this button with mine. It can hook up to spotters scopes and binoculars, though you may want to get a tripod mount for your binoculars if you use them. It's actually called "digiscoping" and you can get adapters for phones and cameras.

I'm sooooo happy with my G85. I've taken it around the world. Here's a list of things I've been keeping track of:

Microphones:

Get the Videomic Pro+. The differences are that the mic turns on/off automatically and it has a usb rechargeable battery.

Having to carry extra batteries are dumb. Especially when they're not rechargeable. Also, you WILL forget to turn the mic on, then your whole shot is ruined because NO SOUND will be recorded. Trust me.
You probably noticed that you can't look in the viewfinder because of the videomic. This Movo 4" bar will fix that.


Batteries:


Speaking of extra batteries, you're going to want more. There are two types: cheap non-decoded, cheap decoded, and OEM.

Non-decoded means you won't know how much battery you have left in the camera. Obviously that's dumb. Spend a little more and get decoded. I really like these OAproda 2 pack + charger. No battery lasts as long as the OEM, but it's close enough. Plus, the OAproda charger is much thinner than the others and charges via USB.

SD Cards:

I love these SanDisk Extreme Pro. I purchased the 128gb because I NEVER want to be in a position that I can ever possibly run out of space.

You'll want a way to copy the files to your pc. This Transcend USB 3.0 works amazingly, and it's $9 for a two pack.

Lens:

The kit lens is pretty damn good. But here are the lenses that you'll see people talk about all the time. Depending how new you are in photography/videography, you should know this: we have a crop sensor. It's not the end of the world. A majority of the people don't mind it. But when you're looking at lens sizes, you need to double the number in order to compare it with full frame camera's. But again, not a big deal.

Panasonic 25mm f1.7 - compared to the "nifty fifty" on a full frame (25mm*2=50mm). This lens works aaaaaaamazing in low light / day light / etc. But to get an idea of how 'zoomed in' it is, take your kit lens and rotate it to "25mm". That's how this lens is. Nevertheless, still such an awesome lens.

Panasonic 45-150mm f4.0-5.6 - I just bought this lens from Amazon Warehouse for $100. It's very well built and serves it's purpose (when I want to zoom in on something far away)

Rokinon 12mm f2.0 - Everyone loves this lens, but keep in mind that it does not have autofocus. Is it the worst thing in the world? No. But it's the only drawback so it's worth mentioning. I was doing some night time time lapses last night and man, this sucker was beautiful. It's WIDER than any other lens, so you'll capture more of the image but it DOES NOT have a fisheye effect (which is awesome).

DSLR Video Shooter's G85 guide was wellllll worth the $20. Most of it was pretty elementary, but I did learn so much more and started using about 90% of what he spoke about. Brilliant.

Camera/Lenses with that sharp of an image have to be a model's worst nightmare. Every single blemish and flaw taken from hundreds of feet away can be blown up and put on display for the world to see. Also, not that I really expected any different, but holy shit that's expensive.

Some time ago, the reviews on this product were just too hilarious...

http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-200-500mm-Ultra-Telephoto-Canon-Cameras/product-reviews/B0013D8VDQ/ref=cm_cr_pr_btm_link_2?ie=UTF8&pageNumber=2&showViewpoints=0&sortBy=bySubmissionDateDescending

Was posted elsewhere recently; but if you haven't seen them, the reviews on this product are hilarious:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013D8VDQ/

Get a foldable bounce for super simple fill or shoot in shade and expose for the skin

http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-110CM-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1324168094&sr=8-1

$13, with gold, silver, and white. I rarely use anything but the white, personally, but there are some occasions here and there where I've been very thankful to have the options. Not really a huge investment there, also folds up, and if you're a professional, well, it certainly helps you look the part. Perception is a huge part of the business.

Here ya' go

The Sony DSC-RX100 20.2 MP Exmor CMOS Sensor Digital Camera might do the trick.

Macro Extension tubes - ~$60

Yongnuo 560 III Speedlight - ~$70

The speedlight is fantastic and with a set of the radio triggers for about $30 it's a really cheap way to get the flash off camera.

Just a few more to add to the list:

18% grey card

Neewer TT560 flash

Neewer 43-inch 5-in-1 reflector

Tiffen Circular polarizer

7 ft. light stand

47" Speedlight Umbrella Softbox

Continuous lighting kit

New camera bag


[EDIT] Added more things to the list, as I think of things I'll continue to expand it.

For those looking to try this, the cheapest lens that'll give you solid photos would likely be this one: Rokinon FE14M-C 14mm F2.8 Ultra Wide Lens for Canon (Black) - Fixed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VSGQPG/

If you don't need a wide angle and are ok either stitching multiple photos or getting small shots, there are plenty of 50mm 1.4s that will give beautiful, albeit small framed, shots.

Neewer TT560 Flash Speedlite $36

there's nothing on here that's recommended unless you really need a flash kit for $40, IMO. It's a $15 no-name lightstand, bracket, umbrella, and a $20 used flash.

I can't recommend the Neewer TT850 speedlite enough for a portable kit. So much depends on your needs and budget though.

That's not an accessories list.. This is an accessories list:

​

Lens Spacer:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/702931500/oculus-quest-rift-s-lens-protector?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=oculus+quest&ref=sr_gallery-1-5&organic_search_click=1&col=1

​

Anker Battery Pack:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HBTY3Z2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Case for Battery pack:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075H2MQHF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Easy Magnetic Charging Cables:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R7SGSYD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Extra Lens Cloths:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050R67U0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Controller grips:

https://www.mamutvr.com/products/mamut-touch-grip

​

Headstrap:

https://www.amazon.com/boomprospect-Headband-Auxiliary-Breathable-Comfortable/dp/B07TMZ6KVG/ref=sr_1_19?keywords=oculus+quest+strap&qid=1562165011&s=gateway&sr=8-19

​

Also VRCover (Still waiting on something fluffier):

https://vrcover.com/oculus-quest-accessories/

Yeah, that is a bit disappointing. PSVR comes with a lens cloth. Fortunately I ordered a bunch back in January to go with my existing VR headsets.

​

These are high quality and pretty cheap:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050R67U0/

Ask and you shall receive.

>If you're going to crash, take the other guy with you.

Or get one of this.

For $20 at least you can show them you were avoiding someone. I know that due to the recording resolution is really hard to get a plate but at least you're not lying. With a 32GB memory($20) you have a 6 hours loop at max resolution (480p), and it records when you start your engine and stops when you turn off the engine, no weird installation required, just plug it in the cigarette lighter connector.

You can even set it to stay on for 30 min after you turn off the engine (internal battery) and record with a motion detector in case they bump your car while parked.

Works great for me. For $40 more, I was thinking to put one in the back now...

No, I am not Russian... :)

Here's a good one to start out with. Cheap and works well enough to avoid insurance fraud.

Fucking idiot pick-up driver, deserves to be shot. Still the truck driver could have stopped especially since this is an uphill. I know it would be extremely inconvenient.

Unfortunately the truck driver will get a preventable accident for this.

Oh also I do have a dashcam. $32 on amazon with memory card. It is not the best but it does the job. Audio recording is lacking but the video looks just like yours. I have seen these on sale at truck stops for $100.

I know it's been stereotypical to jerk off to the Panasonic G7, but after using it for two years as both a dedicated video and photo camera I've became extremely comfortable using it and can vouch for its superiority. This is the first camera I recommend to family and friends, and at $500 nothing can compare to it.

I'd recommend with the spare cash picking up the 25mm f1.7, its fabulous for the price and produces some amazing results.

Heres my website if you want to check out what I've done with the camera.

I went with the Panasonic 20 because I prefer a slightly wider FOV than 'normal' and wanted a more compact lens, but that's subjective. In any case, I like the lens. Not a great choice for action, not a great choice for video unless you have an external mic, but sharp.

If you prefer 25mm, consider the Panasonic 25mm f/1.7 as well. I've never used it, but it's supposed to be good and frequently drops to $150 on Amazon., though it's currently $250.

There is currently no 3rd party usb-c mic adapter in the market.

That being said the most popular mic is the
https://www.amazon.com/Rode-VideoMicro-Compact-Camera-Microphone/dp/B015R0IQGW

Fovitec - 2X 7'6" VR Gaming Lighthouse Mount Stand Kit - [HTC Vive and Oculus Rift Compatible][Adjustable Ball Heads][Includes Carrying Bag] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFG14ZT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dkhXBbJ8NC6FA

I use these. They’re $45.95 with prime, and they work very well.

I bought these for 45 on amazon, they come with a ball head mount for the lighthouse and a carrying case. You don't have to extend the legs very far either so they save space.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFG14ZT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_FR7rzb69NFTD6

I also have the 77D with the 50mm 1.8. I bought the 24mm 2.8 pancake lens and love it. Great cheap lens for all sorts of shooting. Love using it to take landscape shots but is also great for portrait shooting a subject up close.
https://www.amazon.com/Canon-EF-S-24mm-2-8-Lens/dp/B00NI3BZ5K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524755265&sr=8-3&keywords=24mm+2.8

The [24mm f2.8 EF-S] (https://www.amazon.com/Canon-EF-S-24mm-2-8-Lens/dp/B00NI3BZ5K/) lens is just a really good, fairly fast prime lens for really cheap.

Get the [T7i] (https://www.amazon.com/Canon-EOS-REBEL-T7i-Body/dp/B06W2GT5FT) w/ the kit lens, it should be much newer than what came w/ the other body if it is 8 years old. If you can afford the 18-135mm version and the 24mm pancake, go that route. If not, snag the 18-55mm version and the 24mm pancake.

Mission accomplished. :)

Edit: All that said, maybe instead of surprising her w/ an actual camera... how about surprising her w/ a rental of both the T7i and a good mirrorless camera, let her decide and then buy the one she likes? Mirrorless cameras are a ton smaller, so if the size of the DSLR stops it from getting used quite as much... a mirrorless might be just the ticket. :)

This is understandable because 50mm on an APSC camera is actually about 80mm, which is short-telephoto portrait lens territory. 24mm, 28mm 30mm and 35mm, is the golden focal ranges on APSC for general use, imo.

I personally shoot much more prime lenses and can fully recommend a Canon 35mm f/2 IS USM. This lens is equivalent to 56mm on APSC, and when I had it on my 80D, it was the perfect lens for me, for taking pics of the baby and capturing the environment. It has very fast AF, it's built quite well and has great image quality.

If you want something a bit wider, another excellent prime for APSC is the EF-S 24mm f/2.8 STM, "the pancake". Damn what a great lens this is for the price! Also highly-recommended. I owned this one as well and the only reason it wasn't my always-on lens is because the 35mm was more useful for my style. Great image quality, quick and quiet AF, and very low-profile and lightweight. It's a great complimentary lens to the SL2.

I've heard many good things about the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 as well, but cannot provide any personal feedback on that one.

For zoom, I can recommend the Sigma 17-55 2.8. I've used it for a short while and it was a fantastic lens for the price. Light, fast aperture, and inexpensive.

The Sigma 18-35 is a ridiculously good lens, with unreal sharpness, even wide open. Unbelievable piece of equipment. ALTHOUGH, i did have lots of AF issues with it when I had it. An additional Sigma dock may be required to manually calibrate it and update firmware. That will cost another $60. I've heard the latest firmware does solve a lot of issues with newer Canons but don't quote me on it. But these are things that can be fixed. One thing that can't, and probably the biggest issue I would have with it, is that this lens is MASSIVE. The f/1.8 aperture across the entire focal range makes for a big and heavy lens. To put it in perspective, it's twice the weight of the SL2 and using it as a primary lens may make the entire camera feel very unbalanced.

I recently broke down and did this.

This telescope. (Heavy but great optics)

This phone holder

iPhone 7 Plus

VSCO camera app to allow control of exposure, ISO, etc.

Gets me this on the second try taking pictures

You can get a 1080p camera with wifi for $99. This is what I use on my front door.

I have it setup to alert my phone and computer when anyone is at the front door, no matter where I am.

I agree with the two others, the Panasonic 25mm can be picked up cheap! Lens

I used to use commander mode when the only flash I had was a SB-700. When I got more into flash photography I bought two of these flashes and two of these triggers. I've had zero issues with the flash or triggers. They have ttl triggers also

The advantage the radio triggers have over commander mode:

• do not need line of sight
  
  
• have much longer range
  
  
• work well in sunlight
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

I started here. Read his "lighting 101" and "102" entries, then start on his blog. Really good info there.

As for equipment - you can get a huge start with a pair of relatively cheap manual flash-guns and either a cable or a cheap radio trigger. I use the YN and 285HV (notes about the 285HV ), and I trigger them with either optical triggers or these stupidly cheap radio triggers. Side note... the CBS triggers I've had to re-solder a couple of times. Wouldn't recommend if you're not handy with an iron. After that, most of the light modifiers you can fake. Cheap tupperware makes a good diffuser, foil and cardboard make good gobos or reflectors... Paper works reasonably well as a softer reflector.

And, of course, the usual thought and composition reminders. I shot most of these with a single flash bounced off either the wall or ceiling - just a single flash-gun can help enourmously. :D

For starters, I'd be glad to help you find the right camcorder!

Here is an option:

1. Camera: Panasonic HC-V770K Full HD Camcorder - A fantastic camcorder for the price, just about the cheapest still with good features. It is pushing the budget a bit but i think it would be worth it. 5-axis image stabilization, 1080p with slow-mo, wide aperture for low light, timelapse mode, and more.
   
   
2. Shotgun Mic: Rode VideoMic GO Lightweight On-Camera Microphone - A good small shotgun mic that does not require a battery (uses very little power from the camera).
   
   
3. SD Card: SanDisk 32GB Ultra Memory Card - 2 32GB memory cards should get you plenty of record time and allow you to off-load the footage from one card while being able to use the 2nd card.
   
   
4. Camera Bag: Ruggard Commando 25 Shoulder Bag - A great little camera bag that should fit everything you need in it. If you think it is too small, just step up to it's bigger brother the Commando 36.
   
   
5. LED Light: Genaray LED-2100 36 LED Compact On-Camera Light - A great little on-camera LED light to add more light if you think that is going to be an issue. It can totally be removed if you need to cut down the budget and you dont think you will need it. (a smartphone light would work in a pinch if you rarely need extra light)
   
   
6. Extra Battery: Panasonic Lithium-Ion Camcorder Battery Pack (3.6V, 1940mAh) - This is another battery of the same size as the included one. According to product specialists, it will get you ~1.5 hrs per battery. If you need to cut down on the budget, I would recommend cutting the extra battery and using the included AC adapter more often or using a USB battery pack to power the camera.
   
   For attaching the mic, slide the included detachable cold shoe mount into the slot at the rear of the camera until it clicks, slide the mic into the cold shoe and tighten the knob to secure it in place. For attaching the LED light, screw the bar into the bottom of the camera and attach the LED light to the bar similar to attaching the mic.
   
   If you have any other questions, do not hesitate to ask. I hope this helps!

I've been using the Pedco UltraPod for years. It has the advantage of attaching to your trekking poles to get ground shots.

I don't know what you have but I recommend the ultrapod, it has served me well multiple times. It has a strap that you can attach to trees/poles if you need to and I've found it to be reasonably stable for a small travel/table tripod.

Cool shot and smart idea with the hatpod :-) I've started carrying around the Pedco Ultrapod II and just strap it on the side of my camera bag. It has a small profile, very light weight, yet sturdy enough to do long exposures.

I would either keep what you have and not buy a lens, or buy the 25mm f/1.7 with the intent of selling at least one of your lenses to offset the cost.

Here are a few things I have and use:

• short plug - traveling with the long gray cable the charger comes with is a pain. This plug will work in the US, Thailand and China.
  
• peak design capture - I wear a backpack when traveling, this makes my camera always accessible.
  
• travel tripod - If you want a travel tripod and aren't sure that you'll use it, this is a decent choice. If you get this and the pd capture, you'll also want an arca-swiss compatible clamp.
  
  Other notes:
  
  You'll get about 3 hours of camera on-time. To get better battery life, turn off your camera when not taking pictures.
  
  To start, try to align 2 things in a picture: the subject of the photo, and having a pleasing/interesting background. A wide aperture can help with that, but isn't required.
  
  Try to get some practice taking pictures before you go, practice really helps.
  
  Starting out, try shooting in RAW+JPEG.
  
  Beyond that, have fun and take lots of pictures!

Really like the Ultrapod ii

f/4 is actually quite good for a lens of this size. Keep in mind that f-values are a ratio that you can use to calculate the actual physical diameter of the aperture opening. 1 stop larger of aperture would mean an opening that's almost equivalent of the front lens element which would make the 200-400 an extremely expensive and much heavier piece of glass.

If you want to know what a zoom lens with a really wide aperture would be like then look no further than this Sigma.

reviews for this thing are hilarious http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/reviews/B0013D8VDQ/ref=mw_dp_cr

Definitely this. Even learning to bounce flash can dramatically improve the quality of your photos. Some of my favorite photos that I've taken have been in large part due to the lighting used. A few yongnuo flash units, umbrellas, stands, and triggers and you can really get into some lights for cheap. They won't support high speed sync, ETTL, flash groupings, or anything like that which means you're setting everything manually. What better way to learn, though! For under 300 bucks you can get a 3 flash setup and start taking some really great photos. If bounce is your thing you can get the Yongnuo 565 which puts out tons of power and does a great bounce (was the sole flash in that second photo). The only thing I wish it has was high speed sync.

Good comments from u/thnikkamax - I'll add that for location shooting, a popup reflector or even a sheet of foamcore can make a big difference - if you can get someone to hold it. Watch some youtube videos showing how to hold and angle a reflector; and grab it yourself and look at the subject while you lift it, angle it, play with different heights and angles. Then tell the assistant "hold it like this". Usually up pretty high, and angled up, gives a natural look. Distance from the subject can control how much it fills in shadows. Some popups have a choice of white, silver, and gold - all have different looks. Gold is often good to blast hard light from the back on hair and shoulders.

There are a lot in this photo that is great, but you don't want to know what you've done right, correct? Maybe that's how I am :P

Things to consider.

1. The left side is higher than the right. Straighten the photo oh-so-little. There is a slope that is off-putting.
   
   
2. Either go fully silhouette or bring out some lighting in your face. You have great natural lighting, get a reflector and bounce some of that light towards yourself.
   
   
3. Idea: Try bracketing the photo a few stops.
   
   Otherwise, great shot. Keep shoot! I'd love to see more of your work.
   
   Cheers.

That raspberry pi looking thing is a Safecast radiation detector. To the left is a Zoom portable digital audio recorder. Camera is a Leica M9 with the badge missing on the front. Top right black thing is the UltraPod II tripod. On the bottom, second from left, velodyne pouch for in-ear buds. And below the Kindle is an NRGDeck external battery pack for recharging.

https://www.amazon.com/Pedco-UltraPod-Lightweight-Camera-Tripod/dp/B000ANCPNM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509546568&sr=8-1&keywords=ULTRAPOD

Man, I was just researching this today. It really comes down to your shooting preference and what you actually need (or want) a camera to do.

I haven't come up with a perfect solution because what I want is as follows:

• 16 oz weight limit "wet" (the whole shebang including lens, battery, card, whatever)
  
  
• Viewfinder is highly desirable if not mandatory
  
  
• WIDE WIDE WIDE - 20mm equivalent or wider (rectilinear, not fisheye)
  
  
• Reasonably fast lens (f/2.8 or faster)
  
  
• Largest sensor possible in the package (APS-C would be nice)
  
  
• Reasonable battery life
  
  
• Preferably sub $1500
  
  As far as actual models, I've been eyeing the Fuji X100F (which fails wide), the Nikon DL18-50 (which fails viewfinder... and being an actual camera for sale), or maybe the Sony a6500 (which will probably end up failing weight and budget once a suitable lens is attached).
  
  Other than that, I dig the Ultra-Pod II instead of precariously trying to balance on rocks.

Thanks! I get this question occasionally, so I’m just gonna copy-and-paste:

• Camera: Pentax K-70 Digital SLR
  
• Lens: Pentax smc DA 50mm f/1.8
  
• Strap: Peak Design Slide Light
  
• Tripod: Pedco UltraPod II Lightweight Camera Tripod

I got this alternative and I like it. You can't wrap it around anything, but you can strap it around most things! I've tried it with a three pound setup and it was secure.
pedco ultrapod II

As for the rest of my setup, I got this tripod head to put on that ultrapod
so that it works with my peak design capture (clip with the dual plate)[https://www.peakdesign.com/product/clips/capture/].

It trades a bit of bulk for more convenience so i think it's worth it.

If that's not big enough, there's always this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-200-500mm-Ultra-Telephoto-Canon-Cameras/dp/B0013D8VDQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542037644&sr=8-1&keywords=200-500+sigma&dpID=41uAOqLVCOL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

​

for some entertainment, read the reviews.

What I've been using if I need to go portable (i.e. battery powered and no other power source) and it's not a large scale production, I've been using a couple of these cheaper LED lights - http://www.amazon.com/Neewer%C2%AE-CN-160-camera-video-light/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381513337&sr=8-2&keywords=led+light - mounted on these cheap light stands - http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381514172&sr=8-1&keywords=CowboyStudio+Set+of+Two+7+feet+Photography+Light+Stands+with+Cases .

The lights can get quite bright, but they can also be used pretty dim, so I really like them for what they are. The colors aren't perfect, so in the past I've sometimes used actual light gels and taped them over the light (almost always using the diffusing filter). They run off AA batteries, or you could use a few different options of camera batteries.

You could use several different light stands, I just linked you to the cheap ones I bought for these lights. One downside of those particular stands is that the pole isn't completely circular, so you can't just twist it to get the light in the direction you want, you have to actually rotate the stand itself. Not always an issue, but could be a hassle in tight spaces or on uneven terrain.

Pick up one of these. It's a set.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And two of those. This is my set up for when I want to bring my vive somewhere, and it works perfectly. No wobble or anything.

You have to bounce the light elsewhere using reflectors.

Reflectors

These can reflect the light where you want or diffuse and deflect the light.

Also, ND filters help considerably if you’re shooting with a DSLR or Mirrorless such as the A7III

Buy a reflector and bring a friend! Hold it high and shine the sun back onto one side of there face =) Lighting is what makes a photo amazing, this is an easy way to create great lighting =) If you buy a reflector also try to shoot somewhere in the shade and not in direct sunlight.

http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-Inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414167413&sr=8-1&keywords=reflector

I got a couple of "light stands" and they work wonderfully. They're normally used for filmmaking, easy to setup and take down, but hold lights or other lightweight objects at whatever height/angle you need.

They're perfect for the Vive lighthouses; all you need is an adapter for the standard camera-tripod mount on the bottom of the lighthouse. Here's a bundle with everything included.

I would definitely recommend the Rode Videomicro. If want even better, plug the Videomicro into a Zoom H1 and you'll be set!

It might be possible but I can't come up with anything under $200.

The best I can come up with are:

Used Tokina 12-24 mm for $278 categorized as "EX" (excellent) condition
A used and rather beat-up Sigma 10-20 mm for $268 categorized as "BGN" (bargain) condition
A used Rokinon 14 mm for $276.21 (but realize this one is manual focus and doesn't zoom)

Here's my post I make when people ask what accessories and games they should look at for the switch; most are exclusives. I put puyo puyo tetris on the list because I have more switch pro controllers than ps4 controllers, so multiplayer is easier for us on the switch. Cave story+ has some things the pc version doesn't, which is why I listed that one.


Here's my switch starter kit:

Amfilm Tempered Glass Screen Protectors
RDS Switch Case
128GB Samsung Evo Select MicroSD Card
128GB Sandisk Ultra MicroSD Card
Switch Pro Controller
Ugreen Usb 3.0 to Ethernet Adapter
Magicfiber Cloths

I'd not want to be without any of these items.

Games:
Mario Kart 8 Deluxe
Super Mario Odyssey
Xenoblade Chronicles 2
Mario+Rabbids
Super Bomberman R
Puyo Puyo Tetris
Fire Emblem Warriors
Cave Story+
Zelda Breath of the Wild
Snipperclips Plus
Pokken Tournament DX
Azure Striker Gunvolt Striker Pack
Mighty Gunvolt Burst (eshop)
Blaster Master Zero (eshop)
Kamiko (eshop)
Golf Story (eshop)

I use these Magic Fiber cloths which are very cheap and work much better than the cloth that comes with the PSVR.

I also have a lenspen. My usual process is:

1. Use the brush side of the lens pen to brush any large dust particles away from the lens so you don't just rub it all over the glass and scratch the f**k out of it.
   
   
2. Use the magicfiber cloth to wipe away the oils that collect on the lens.
   
   
3. Use the lenspen tip to finish up by starting in the center of the lens and making little circles outward.
   
   Keep in mind that A) your PSVR lens get's oils all over it from your eye lashes and any fingerprints that might have accidentally gotten on there and B) lenspen hates oils and C) lenspen leaves a fine amount of carbon dust on the lens which you then push an inch away from your eyes.
   
   So use it sparingly.

A Pentax camera is a pretty good choice. They're not as popular as their Canon/Nikon counterparts, but they're always loaded with tons of features, especially for the price. The K70 is their newest midrange body (came out just 2 or 3 months ago) and the reviews have been decent so far.

As for the point and shoot you linked, I would say the G9x is one of the best point and shoots out there. I would certainly pick it over anything sub-$300 and I think it's well worth the extra $200. It's competition would be the Sony RX100, however for the same price I think the G9x is a bit of a better choice.

Got this for power and love it > Juicebox Battery for Blackmagic Cameras (Pocket 4K, Micro, Pocket, Cinema, Production & Video Assist) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073BMTFFJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6k.TCb6096Y6Z

Decent but cheap met lens > PANASONIC LUMIX Professional 25mm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014RD6RC0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I'll give that a look! Just to be sure, is this one of the line you're talking about?

Definitely go with the cheaper speedlights these days. A few Yongnuo YN 560 III's paired with the remote power control transmitter (here's a slightly cheaper limited option) will give you everything the more expensive canon/nikon speedlights offer, but hundreds of dollars less.

Brand flashes are some of the most overpriced items in photography. I wouldn't jump straight in with one if I wasn't sure I needed it.

People recommend YongNuo flashes for good reason - they are well built, do pretty much exactly the same job as the brand flashes, but are a fraction of the price.

You can go for a 560iii which is fully manual, or the 565 which is TTL; that is, the flash will adjust itself based on information gathered Through The Lens.

As you can see, the 560 is under £50 and the 565 is under £70, so even if you do upgrade, you haven't exactly broken the bank, and it will mean you just have 2 decent flashguns. Which you go for is up to you. TTL may be useful for parties where you going around taking candid or quickly posed shots in changing light, so if you can afford the extra 20 quid, go for it. If your budget is tight, the 560 will still do a great job - it's easy to adjust on the fly.

You will probably also want to look into light modifiers like softboxes (mini ones for on-camera, larger ones for off camera), umbrellas, light stands, and remote triggers. A more affordable flashgun gives you much more leeway in that regard.

As for learning how to use it, head over to The Strobist. And of course, you can always ask here.

It will get the job done! You might want to go for The 24mm for a really 'all purpose' lens though.

I really wish Canon had a 35mm in that price range

What lens does she have with the camera? I wouldn't really call lenses "accessories". What does she like to photograph?

Does she have a nice camera bag? Does she need any memory cards? Lens cleaning cloths or a rocket blower? Circular polarizing filter? Extra batteries?

Note, for the Rebel t7, the "nifty fifty" would actually be ~30mm. There is no Canon 30mm lens in your price range, but you could get the 24mm or 40mm instead. Each are $130. I would lean towards the 24mm.

I got an adapter for my smartphone to take pics... It works really well!

Gosky Universal Cell Phone Adapter Mount
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013D2ULO6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_z9jAybYPV6G5M

Really not purpose built, but what I'm using in this setup is an HP Elitebook with a microsoft 720p webcam (is actually the roommate's) literally just duct taped onto an Emarth 20-60x60. Alternatively to a laptop and webcam is to use your phone with something like this.


Better results could be had with better equipment, but it worked well enough for my purpose. Two side notes: For outdoors, reducing the camera's exposure settings helps reduce washout. The other thing is shoot and see type targets work well.

I got this one because I do PoE in the house and I loathe putting stuff on the wireless if they don't have to be there:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H2JFE5W/

There's identical version without the PoE for $10 less:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0145OQTPG

I don't let it talk to outside of my network though, so I had to set up a little open-sauce surveillance recording software on my server :)

I have a DS415+ with 4 X 6tb WD Reds (18tb total in SHR). I use it as:

• Plex server - I have 4 users I share with accross the country (no transcoding although it can handle 1-2)
  
• Surveillance - I have 2 X Amcrest 1080p cameras that record when motion detected and are wireless. Keep in mind that you get two free licenses per Synology unit. Any more and it will cost you a license per camera
  
• Storage - Two users primarily and access both locally and over the net multiple times a day (through the DS apps). Photos/videos/documents/etc.
  
• Cloudsync - synced with OneDrive
  
• VPN server - not running all the time but I do use it several times a week
  
  I did upgrade the memory to 8gb following this. I purchased the DS415+ a year ago coming from a DS213j that could not handle all of this simultaneously. I have been very happy with the setup and would purchase again in a heartbeat.

As long as the camera supports ONVIF and the NAS supports it, then you should have no issue with having the NAS record.

Most of the cheap cameras only support cloud recording because that's how they make their money off of you.

EDIT: Forgot to do provide a recommendation, if you want an indoor cam, something like this would work: https://smile.amazon.com/Amcrest-1920TVL-Security-Wireless-IP2M-841B/dp/B0145OQTPG/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=ip+camera&qid=1558804116&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Do you only have the kit lens for the ep3? If you have any sort of decent lens selection I'd personally stay on m43, at least for now. The lens selection for the M50 is poor, and canon just released a brand new lens mount that's completely incompatible with it. Some people are worried about the future of the system. It probably isn't going anywhere anytime soon, but it is a weird time to be buying into EF-M.

If you don't have any other lenses, you might want to think about whether or not you should be on an ILC system at all. A good compact camera with a fast lens like the LX10, RX100, LX100 or Canon G series will probably take better pictures than an m50 with kit lens or an em3 with the oly 12-40. If you decide to stay with an ILC, do you find yourself limited by your current camera? 24mp is great, but if you're not doing big crops or giant prints you might not even notice the difference. Generally speaking, investing in better lenses tend to have a bigger payoff than getting a new body, but if there's something specific about your current camera that's holding you back it might be time to upgrade.

I personally think the best inexpensive camera right now is the Panasonic GX85. It's a great camera, an amazing value, and will work with your existing lenses. I think the best first lens for m43 is the Panasonic 25mm f1.7. It's $150, optically excellent, and great in low light. It isn't a zoom, but it's a useful focal length for lots of different applications.

The kit lens can get fairly wide, but it is limited to 18mm. I suppose if you have the lens, you want to go wider than that. 24mm isn't going to help to get your image less shaky. Your lens already covers that focal length, and the 24mm prime lens isn't image stabilized.

You'll get smooth footage out of a wide angle lens that is also image stabilized. For something wider than what you have, go with the Canon 10-18mm. That's a fairly inexpensive lens for what it is. It's made for Canon's EF-S mount, so it only works on the crop lenses like you have.

I have a Rebel T3i. I got my lens kit with it and was soon looking for more lenses, too. For cheap next lenses, two that I would highly recommend are the Nifty Fifty or the EF-S 24mm f/2.8.

The nifty fifty is a great lens and one that many pros even recommend. It's a good focal length to have to portraits and such and will work on even full frame cameras if she gets one in the future. The 24mm lens only works on crop sensor cameras (like the T5 your girlfriend has). But it's still a great cheap addition to her kit. I just used mine recently for a photoshoot with a model and the shots came out great. The focal length is good for portraits on a crop sensor. With the 50mm, I sometimes have to back away further than I'd like to frame the shot right. But the 24mm in the same situation doesn't limit me.

The 50mm also has the advantage of having a f/1.8. This allows some great shallow depth of field in the images she can take (blurry backgrounds) if she so chooses. It makes the subject pop more. Both are lenses I'm very happy to have in my bag. I don't think you can go wrong with either.

I’d say look at a Rebel t7i or 80D, and invest in some glass. You can pick up a 80D refurbished, 50mm, 24mm stm, a used Tamron 70-200 2.8 VC for under $2000 and that will be a solid base!

Refurb 80D Kit $779.20

50mm $125

24mm $149.

Tamron 70-200 used $799

$1853 Enough for some accessories

I have an 80D, same sort of deal. The current 24mm pancake lens from Canon does decently wide angles and has decent specs for the price (f2.8). It's like just over $100, like the nifty fifty. It's also great because of the low profile. A drawback for video is lack of image stabilization but I find it manageable at such wide angles.

Why do you want full frame? Just for the wider angles? I was considering this too not too long ago, and honestly, it's a whole boatload more money for something that composition and lenses can really help bridge the gap with and would be important for consideration no matter what gear you're using. Full frame is one of those things that I'd love to have down the line, but absolutely cannot justify given how amateur I am and expensive they get. Plus, pros use APS-C all the time. And M4/3 cameras are getting more and more popular and those are super cropped down compared to full frame and APS-C. I think there's a ton you can accomplish with something like a 70D... two people that I know who are actually making careers on this still swear by their 60D and use it all the time.

Another thing to consider for video is older manual lenses. I don't know how much you use autofocus, but older Canon, Nikon, Tamron/Vivitar, and other lenses can really be great buys on eBay, and I have to say that manual focus for video is a pretty useful thing to get down with and looks really great/artsy/whatever. These lenses can be really high spec for what they are and can be like $20, plus the cost of a converter for the EOS mount (like $9 I think).

I love this Veep clip, it perfectly summarizes how I feel when people with high end photo gear are condescending. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=paJqHPHLExo

Obviously go for what you want, but really consider the practicality of it first. I definitely considered full frame at first because of the exact notion that people who use crop are amateurish, and then I realized (a) I am amateurish lol and that's fine and (b) no they're not and they can capture great photo and video.

If you are looking at wide angle stuff for crop, here's two more I know are good:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K899B9Y/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002Y5WXE/

Just not super fast.

/u/HopefulUtopian helped me get some footing with video production basics so idk maybe he'll have more to add (he's one of those pro people, but not who I was referencing earlier about the 60D).

From what you're planning on using it for I think the t6i is probably going to be your best option. Some people seem to just be anti-Rebel, but honestly they boast a lot of features as long as you don't need a top lcd or lots of external controls. I still have my old t3i that is honestly one of my favorite cameras, especially for video. It's not the most advanced and is missing a lot of features that higher up canon dslr's have, but it's still a great camera.

I would definitely recommend putting more into your lenses than your body, and if you're considering upgrading to a FF sometime in the next couple years, it might be worth it to look for EF lenses rather than EF-S, since EF lenses are compatible with both crop sensors and full frame sensor bodies.

A favorite lens of many photographers is the 24-70mm f/2.8 L II because it has a nice range of focal lengths and is part of the canon 'L' series. However, it's priced accordingly and if it's not in your price range, that's completely understandable.

A very inexpensive lens that will give you much better results than the kit lens is the 50mm f/1.8 STM EF, which, at $120, is quite the deal. It's also featured on Ken Rockwell's Best Canon Lenses. It is a prime, meaning you can't zoom in or out, but I find 50mm to be a nice general focal length, especially for portraits and street photography. You might also consider the 24mm f/2.8 STM EF-S($150) for slightly wider angle, which can be nice on a crop sensor body. It's not compatible with FF cameras, but at $150, it's probably worth getting just for your t6i, especially if you aren't sure if you'll go FF anytime soon.

Check out Ken Rockwell's guide and maybe compare it to other guides online, there's a lot of people that have posted their favorite lenses or what they find to be the "best" lenses

Good luck!

Seconding the kit 18mm as probably wide enough, but if you're wanting really wide at that price range - here's a Samyang 10mm 2.8 or if you don't mind not having as fast a lens (less DoF options and need more light) a Canon 10-18.

My advice since I own the same camera - if you don't have it already get magic lantern installed. If you have trouble PM me and I'll walk you through. It gives you new options with your camera. Second, if you don't have a fast lens, get the nifty fifty - canon 50mm 1.8 and consider getting the new canon 24mm 2.8. These are fast prime lenses that will 1, challenge you to work on framing your shots since you can't just adjust the zoom, and 2, let you open up for more light, practice things like pulling focus, get some 'cinematic' shots with subject in focus and the blurry background (bokeh). Then invest in audio. At the very least a dslr shotgun mic like the Rode VMP or if you have a smartphone you can use, something like a Rode Smartlav. Better yet, spend next to nothing and make one out of a headphone/microphone combo for cell phones like this one. Tons of DIY projects on the web. Buy a really cheap cam stabilizer or make one. Same for jibs. Make a skateboard dolly shot rig.

I use one of these and it works great. Takes a bit of adjusting though to get the cam on view. Great low cost option.

Gosky Universal Cell Phone Adapter Mount

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013D2ULO6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8rJEybNN3TSPK

I've been doing the same thing.

CPC1100

Luminos eyepiece set (wide FOV)

cellphone mount

If I were you, I'd go with a microscope that has a trinocular view. It really helps to be able to view what your are taking images of through an eyepiece.

This is the microscope I use and I have no complaints yet:

https://www.amazon.com/AmScope-T490B-Magnification-High-Resolution-Microscopes/dp/B004QEFO1Q/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1524069091&sr=1-3&keywords=trinocular+microscope&dpID=41a90GOXjiL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

You can get decent photos / videos using a phone adapter if you're on a budget.

Something like this perhaps:
https://www.amazon.com/Gosky-Universal-Phone-Adapter-Mount/dp/B013D2ULO6/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1524069164&sr=1-4&keywords=microscope+phone+adapter&dpID=41riC-uLXTL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

What's an iPhone telescope?

You could get an ordinary telescope and get a mount to attach your iPhone to it, so you can take pictures though the eyepiece.
Like this

I use this one personally. Works great.

It can be pretty hard to get everything lined up if you're trying to hold the phone up to the eyepiece, especially if the focal length is smaller. The easiest way that I've found is to use the smallest focal length eyepiece such that your phone's camera can only see the lens and there is no rim showing. Then, to hold it steady in that centered position, it's handy to have a phone camera mount like this one. I reserve one eyepiece and align everything in daylight, which is less frustrating. When I want to take a picture, I align the scope with a different eyepiece, then switch out to the one with the mount attached to it. It's pretty crude but it has worked pretty well so far! I hope this helps.

There are a couple products that basically hold your phone in the right place on the eye piece, a few 3D printable designs and things like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013D2ULO6/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1 . Unless you have a DSLR and the 1 or 2 lens adapters to hook it up to your microscope, your phone is probably the easiest thing to use.

Unfortunately, a $300 purpose-built microscope camera is going to have far inferior image quality than modern cell phones. Something like this will drastically help with getting shots through the scope.

That said, I still use this camera more than mounting my cell phone. The image quality is inferior, yes, but the convenience and software available outweigh it. At your budget, you could certainly do both and let him decide when to use which.

Hope that was any help.

This one!

Edited to add that I got it centered on Polaris first, because chasing and centering on a moving target at 200x is an exercise in frustration.

Hello :-)


1) Eyepieces

Are you wearing glasses, do you have astigmatism, what eyepieces do you have (from your other telescopes)?


2-3mm exit pupil can be nice for many deep-sky objects.

• Depends on your budget, this could be a 15mm Gold line, a Explore Scientific 82° or even one of the 100° eyepieces... Something wide-field is nice.
  
  And of course just something lower magnification to enjoy wide-field. But depending on the light pollution conditions, do not go over 6-7mm exit pupil. Estimate how dark your sky is.
  
  
• So, a 36mm-42mm 2" wide-angle eyepiece can be very nice to have as overview eyepiece. E.g. the cheaper Erfle (70°, Explore-Scientific, GSO, q70, SWAN...) can work fine, or the more expensive Explore-Scientific 82° if you are willing to spend a bit more. Depending on the wide-angle eyepiece, these will show around 5°, while a 32mm 1.25" Plössl shows a maximum of almost 3° (which is still nice, and at $22.50 for the eyepiece, a lot cheaper).
  
  Despite it being an ED refractor, don't do it magnification wise. Less 1mm exit pupil does not gain much detail anyway.
  
  
• 7.5mm eyepiece 1mm exit pupil, 80x magnification, but you could get a 6mm (gold line $24-$35), 7mm82° Luminos, or 6.7mm (Explore-Scientific 82° ~$150) for example.
  
  80mm is limited for visual regarding magnification and seeing faint deep-sky objects due to the small aperture. Personally, I would enjoy the wide-field the most! :-)
  
  .
  
  (Exit pupil = eyepiece focal length divided by aperture ratio of the telescope)
  
  
  .
  
  
  2) Night vision
  
  Night vision reaches ~30 minutes to reach it's peak and is destroyed within a second. Use a dim(able) red light when reading maps. Cellphones with back-lit displays can ruin night vision even in red/night mode, but there are deep transparency sheets to cover your display.
  
  Eye patches can help and are cheap, you can get them at drug stores, pharmacies.
  
  For planets, you do not need to adjust to the darkness. In fact, the planets and especially the moon can be so bright they will ruin your night vision for DSO observations as well.
  
  .
  
  3) Astrophotography with iphone
  
  Consider getting a (used) DSLR.
  
  For a cellphone, you will need a holder to attach it to the telescope or eyepiece (random link, untested). You will need to take images through the eyepiece. It's easier with low magnification eyepieces as the exit pupil makes it easier to align the phone. Do not use the phone's digital zoom.
  
  Get an App with more advanced camera settings (not owning an iphone, I don't know if that advice applies to Mac-o-phones and how good the camera settings are regarding exposure and such).
  
  Use manual focus (or set to infinity) so you don't have to worry about varying sharpness.
  Also see http://www.universetoday.com/118527/iphone-astrophotography-how-to-take-amazing-images-of-the-sky-with-your-smartphone-tonight/
  
  Bright objects (moon, planets) are possible, deep-sky is limited to the brighter objects (Andromeda, Orion nebula, but especially star clusters such as h&chi Persei, Plejads... Double stars such as Albireo).
  
  .
  
  4) GoTo
  
  Not having that mount, I'll leave that to someone else. A quick search revealed a lot of videos for that particular mount on Youtube though.
  
  .
  
  5)
  
  I would separate the telescope from the mount, put the telescope in a bag.
  
  
  .
  
  Good luck, clear skies! :-)

Amcrest (formerly FOSCAM). Probably your best bang for your buck for indoor cameras with no monthly fees.

Amcrest IP2M-841 ProHD 1080P (1920TVL) WiFi IP Security Camera, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0145OQTPG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_QHXHxbZKM388M

I have an IP cam sitting infront of my tanks so I can watch them when I leave, that's how I'm able to count and make sure they're all good. :)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0145OQTPG/ref=sxts_kp_bs_lp_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=21B1o&pf_rd_r=12GS5PW18PBW9ABXCZSV&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B0145OQTPG&pd_rd_w=u0VUM&pf_rd_i=amcrest&pd_rd_r=ab67158b-001c-48ca-ad6b-e3b762f8f7e6&ie=UTF8&qid=1542416904&sr=1

r/letnotmeet has an official guide on the sidebar that has good tips as far as safety/physical security goes. one thing that's not on there are what's called "security bars" that you can buy from amazon. they block in doors/windows/sliding doors from being broken in while you're at home, like when you're sleeping.

i'd also consider posting on trollx for advice as well. there's some of us trolls who've gone through some shit and may be able to give good advice.

for restraining order, for one thing, he'll need the exact address of where he needs to stay away from. since he already knows her home address, i would just be careful putting on there specific locations that he doesn't know about, if that makes sense. restraining orders might only be half as helpful if there isn't some way to catch him violating it. i'd recommend some sort of night security camera. i put these on my tech wishlist after ppl recommended them on the recent r/aww post on the cat triggering the night camera:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0145OQTPG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3PDI6G88Q8ITA&coliid=I32NXUP8ELY3US&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MMRV1M/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3PDI6G88Q8ITA&coliid=IXT7HPA0HMC8D&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CW4BG4K/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3PDI6G88Q8ITA&coliid=I2NHMUTKAQWLNC&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QH0Q8J4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3PDI6G88Q8ITA&coliid=IYEA8OCV4N4GA&psc=1

as for stopping cold turkey or de-escalating, that's up to her. but whatever she chooses, and hell, even now, she NEEDS to be prepared for his possible actions when she does do it, cuz he's gonna get pissed, which might lead to silent insidious revenge or straight out attack.

that means not going anywhere alone, securing her house and car when she's alone, setting up apps that can be immediately triggered quietly to call for help, carrying pepper sprays/defense stuff depending on local laws, etc etc, there's a lot you can do. and making sure her friends/family/coworkers/employer knows -the more eyes keeping a lookout for him the better (show them a picture of him). these fuckers relish on getting the upper hand and she needs to get in control of the situation. (and yes, i know a lot of this stuff from reading that sub)

also, breaking and entering IS a crime, wherever you are. if she catches that on tape she's golden as far as restraining order or even straight up charging him with it. she should start a journal log, writing down exact dates/times/details of any event, small or big. if it ever goes to the police or court, it'll help tremendously. she can also low-key record conversations with him on her phone, just turn the indicator light switch off.

best of luck and safety to you and your friend.

-trollx

I can't comment as a owner, but I've heard quite a lot of discussion regarding the Amcrest and Amcrest Pro, 720P and 1080P respectively. I have three pro's sitting in my wish list at the moment. Seem to be a great value.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0145OQTPG/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_6?smid=AM1AKWRN957PC&psc=1

Order one of these and DON'T MISS IT!

I just picked up a Canon FD 50mm f1.8 for $20 and an adapter for $16. Of course with the crop factor it won't be 50mm but for $20 I thought I'd pick one up since everyone seems to love them.


My next pickup is going to be the 25mm f1.7 from Panasonic though. From what everyone has said on here it is a phenomenal lens for the price ($250)https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014RD6RC0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Dc-Hyb0BD5HX1



Of course I don't have experience with them yet, but that's what I've heard!

Link: https://www.amazon.com/PANASONIC-LUMIX-MIRRORLESS-THIRDS-H-H025K/dp/B014RD6RC0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510543667&sr=8-3&keywords=panasonic+25mm+1.7&dpID=31nQ7spiQmL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Currently $148 USD.

25mm f1.7 on sale now everywhere for $148:

https://www.amazon.com/PANASONIC-LUMIX-MIRRORLESS-THIRDS-H-H025K/dp/B014RD6RC0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496691361&sr=8-1&keywords=25mm+1.7

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ZIMEMW/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Just a cheap example. There are a variety of sizes/shapes so pick the one that makes sense for your kit. The idea is to reflect/bounce light onto your subject if you need better exposure or if you want to soften the light. Ones like this are multipurpose.

I purchased a 14mm lens, but I just realized it doesn't accept threaded filters. (https://www.amazon.com/Rokinon-FE14M-C-Ultra-Canon-Black/dp/B003VSGQPG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493230524&sr=8-3&keywords=14mm+lens)

Can I just buy a sheet of polarized paper and rotate it infront of the lens when I shoot? Any better options? Filter holders won't work because you can't rotate the filter, correct?

like this?

There's really not much out there for $300-$400 without doing a whole lot of scouring on the used market.

If you can wait a bit more I personally love the Rokinon [email protected], which they do make in an AF sensor and non AF sensor versions (both are manual focus though). The version that doesn't have the focus indicators is pretty risky to use,

From Rocky Mountain National Park a couple months ago:Img #1 Img #2 Img #3

I shoot almost exclusively at night. This photo isn't sharp because it is slightly out of focus. In-focus stars will look like this and your foreground at that distance should also be in focus. Focusing at night is obviously problematic. What I've learned to do is to find a bright star or a light on the horizon and use live view to focus on it. That should put your lens at infinity and if your foreground is far enough, it should be sharp as well.

If you stop down, don't go much lower than f5.6 or f8, any lower than that and you will have to compensate with longer exposures, turning your stars into streaks. Wider lenses are better for star shots generally, as they can see more of them while increasing. I use this great cheap 14mm f2.8 prime. A general rule to follow for exposure time on a crop sensor is 400/focal length, 600/focal length for full frame bodies. Sticking near this number will help prevent your stars from "pilling" or stretching out.

Shoot RAW if you can. If you can get Camera RAW with Elements, it will allow you tons of ways to adjust the image, most importantly white balance.

Pretty wide, pretty fast, not so cheap

Not as wide, just as fast, a little cheaper

Wider, Not as fast, Cheaper

Ninja Edit the non "cinema" versions are cheaper.

1

2

The Rokinon 14mm might work. It's around $250 new but it's manual focus. That being said, I was planning on selling my Canon 10-18. I bought it, used it twice, then immediately switched to Fuji so I'm looking to get rid of it. PM me if you're interested, it should be what you're looking for.

Thanks - I think anything more than hundred dollars on is going to be a hard sell for me on the wife.

The flash is this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LEAYXY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Regarding the conditions, I have no idea what to expect. I assume both indoor and outdoor - weather-dependent, of course.

Thanks for the links - I didn't see the giant list of links on the right. I usually browse via phone. My apologies for that.

http://www.amazon.com/Pack-MagicFiber-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths/dp/B0050R67U0/ work pretty well.

Order these in bulk, it's about a two week lifespan before you have to wash them again unless you wear glasses, then it's only one.

Either way, they live up to their name, I never use a cleaning solution and there's never any smudges/streaks on either my glasses or the Oculus after about 10-20 seconds of rubbing the lenses. I'm extremely neurotic about smudging, I hold my glasses up to the light afterwards and they honestly look brand new.

https://www.amazon.com/Pack-MagicFiber-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths/dp/B0050R67U0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474217415&sr=8-1&keywords=magicfiber

They've even got a money-back no questions asked guarantee. I'm not a spokesman or anything, these things just honestly changed my life.

Any microfiber cloth will do.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloth-Pack/dp/B009FUF6DM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494313077&sr=8-3&keywords=microfiber+cloth

https://www.amazon.com/Pack-MagicFiber-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths/dp/B0050R67U0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494313077&sr=8-4&keywords=microfiber+cloth

I bought those and found that they leave microfibers all over my lenses/screen. I would recommend microfiber cloths over microfiber towels, personally.

I only ever use two things to clean my camera gear:

Giottos Rocket Blaster - https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/259157-REG/Giottos_AA1900_Rocket_Air_Blower.html

Microfiber cloths - https://www.amazon.com/MagicFiber-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths-PACK/dp/B0050R67U0/ (Any well-reviewed cloth will do, this just happens to be the ones I ordered)

I never use any kind of solution or chemical, the closest I get to that is lightly breathing onto something which might have a stubborn bit of dirt which needs some moisture to aid removal.

Use the rocket blaster first and if that fails then move onto the microfiber cloth. The rocket blaster is the only safe way to use air on your gear- both canned and compressed air carry risk of damaging your equipment.

​

I'm curious about the pricing too (I also saw it was $120 when you commented). I looked up the cost of the things listed.

• Gerber Dime green/black - $16.02 new on Amazon
  
• Zebra F-701 pen - $7.20 new on Amazon
  
• NarwhalCo pens set of 2 - $11.95 new on their site
  
• 2.5" ratchet bit extension - about $4~ new on Amazon (counting out the other bits included in that listing)
  
• ARES 1/4" micro bit ratchet & mini bits - $14.42 new on Amazon
  
• Small length of black Gorilla tape - less than $1 worth of a full 1-pack price new on Amazon
  
• Glasses/screen cleaning cloth - comparable to $1.50 new on Amazon from a 6-pack
  
• Length of FireCord - less than $1 worth of a full 1 roll price new on Amazon
  
• Bic Mini lighter - about $1.39 new on Amazon from a 5-pack
  
• Sim card removal tool - about $0.50 new on Amazon from a 10-pack
  
• Kingston 32gb microSD card & portable USB reader - $20.94 new on Amazon
  
• CountyComm "Industrial Strength Survival Food Grade Tin" large topo design - $3.45 new on their site
  
  In total that's about $83.37 USD all new prices. Most include free shipping if purchased from Amazon. I did not include possible cost of that leather holster because the post currently does not say the leather holster is included or not.

MagicFiber

I bought some when I got my Gear, but I use them for my family's glasses and our phones. I thought all lens clothes were the same, but these clean better with no spray than any others with spray. I can clean most screens/lenses without any spray, but if it's super dirty, you can use spray with them as well. And they can be handwashed when they need to be.

These changed my way of seeing microfiber as just some simple cloth you could get anywhere:

http://www.amazon.com/Pack-MagicFiber-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths/dp/B0050R67U0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451975626&sr=8-1&keywords=magic+fiber

I got one just for the fun of it, but one quick wipe on my lens and i was blown away. Never going back to regular microfibers.

• For containers I just use 1 pint cheap plastic containers that soups come in or deli give you. I guess you can find a nice piece of Tupperware that is about that size, and a taller one for taller prints. You could probly just ask the Deli guys at a food store for a few empty 1 pint containers + lids.
  
  
  • 2 containers - one with pure IPA and one with clean water. Good lids that won't leak.
    
    
• 91% or 99% IPA for cleaning your build plate / resin vat / scraping tools / desk / etc. and for using in the print wash container. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ABPUGH0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• More gloves: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CF49NJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 My palm width is about 3.6 inches / 9.2 cm and I bought the XL which fit ok.
  
  
• More paint strainers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HQELZ7E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Better removal tools: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Also get some Xacto knives + extra blades + sand paper sheets in varying grit 300-400 count for smoothing off support marks. https://www.amazon.com/X-Acto-XZ3601-X-ACTO-Knife-Safety/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1527015690&sr=8-6&keywords=xacto+blade
  
  Try to find the flexible sand paper sheets that are meant to be hand-used. I found them in Loews 3m brand, this is the exact type of sheets i use: https://www.amazon.com/3M-COMPANY-28320SB-UF4-320G-Sandpaper/dp/B00PPD1CYA/ref=sr_1_7?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1527015867&sr=8-7&keywords=sandpaper+320+grit+3m
  
  
• Find a source for cheap paper towels. I use the real cheap paper towels that you find in bathrooms, the stuff that's really stiff and crappy. I don't use name brands such as Bounty or whatever because the higher quality kitchen paper towels leave behind bits of cloth dust, which is unwanted for cleaning the resin vat / build plate / LCD screen. You'll also go through shitloads of paper towels and the higher quality towels are a waste of money. https://imgur.com/7XeelfV
  
  
• Get a couple sunglasses cleaning cloths. Not the microfiber cloths with the consistency of a bathroom towel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009L77OXE/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B009L77OXE&pd_rd_wg=OcvWJ&pd_rd_r=3AAAFBB1202BXG3K8QN0&pd_rd_w=cwumx That's just an example - you can probly finder cheaper and better sized/quality towels such as: https://www.amazon.com/MagicFiber-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths-PACK/dp/B0050R67U0/ref=pd_bxgy_421_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0050R67U0&pd_rd_r=PR868R09NE2DQCC8NBVQ&pd_rd_w=0uPs5&pd_rd_wg=eAMNx&psc=1&refRID=PR868R09NE2DQCC8NBVQ
  
  I use these cloths on the LCD screen and the resin vat FEP sheet. After cleaning the resin vat FEP sheet and the LCD with paper towels, I give them a nice polish with the cleaning cloth to remove any other smudges or dust. Make sure to have a cloth dedicated to ONLY the LCD screen, as you want the keep the LCD screen pristine and free of dust and smudges.
  
  You'll also want a print curing station to harden the prints once they have been cleaned. I bought:
  
  
• A plastic cookie jar; clear plastic, round: https://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/store/product/oxo-good-grips-reg-3-piece-pop-canister-set/3262796?categoryId=12605
  
  
• UV LED Light Strip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZQZDBR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Heavy duty tape, such as duct tape or gorilla tape. I used black gorilla tape.
  
  
• Aluminum Foil
  
  

1. Wrap the LED strip around the plastic container to this effect: https://imgur.com/oB98Qxl . Make sure you wrap so that the power cable connector will be at the bottom of the container. Make sure you secure the beginning and the end of the LED strip to container with a piece of tape.
   
   
2. Wrap the LED'd container with aluminum foil - shiny side facing inward. Lay out a long piece of foil on the floor, shiny side facing up, just enough to cover the container's length once. Secure the beginning of the foil piece with a piece of tape, and then secure the end of the foil. Try to wrap without causing creases in the foil, keeping the foil as shiny and smooth as possible. Make sure your power cable plug in point is popping out and able to be plugged in.
   
   
3. Secure a piece of foil to the base, shiny side facing inward.
   
   
4. Secure a piece of foil to the lid, shiny side inward. Take a piece of tape and make a 2-sticky-sided loop to secure the foil. Make sure the foil is not interfering with the lid's ability to securely close.
   
   
5. Wrap the whole thing with your gorilla or duct tape. Make sure your power cable plug-in point is popping out and able to be plugged in.
   
   

I can very much appreciate the sentiment of wanting to clean and re-use the cloths. However, one of the best ways to scratch a lens is to clean it with a cloth with particle contaminates. IMO, it's just not worth the risk. I picked up a 6 pack of cloths on Amazon for a few dollars. I'm on my second cloth, and just keep the old ones around for cleaning cheap (entirely replaceable) reading glasses, and save the fresh ones for my VR lenses.

This is what I use specifically: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050R67U0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This one is not the best, but it gets the job done and is pretty cheap.

http://www.amazon.com/2-5-inch-Vehicle-Recorder-Dashboard-Camcorder/dp/B0053DDNW6/ref=sr_sp-btf_title_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1404912766&sr=8-10

It will take me a while to find the one that is higher quality and a lot more popular. Black something.

They can be amazingly cheap. I picked these up for each of my vehicles after my issues with being rear-ended by a police officer.

I can go on for hours, with similar stories of my home of 16 years. The following have been the best things I have ever done to combat my experiences:

• Home security camera's with a sample
  
• Dashcam with a sample
  
• Animal detterent (I use this with success and not on my 2 cats/4 doggies)
  
  Edit: I own/use a "pet trainer".

Nope not at all, I actively encourage them. I was one of the people in the other thread that said a radar detector would make me more likely to write a ticket. The big difference is intent. You aren't using a dashcam to break the law, you are using it to protect yourself. Big difference to me. I own a dash cam for my personal vehicle and use it ever day. Good peace of mind to me.

http://smile.amazon.com/2-5-inch-Vehicle-Recorder-Dashboard-Camcorder/dp/B0053DDNW6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408846794&sr=8-2&keywords=dash+cam

Yes, and it works pretty well for under $20.

I bought this one but /r/dashcam recommends this one

Not much help since you've already been in an accident, but after getting in a couple of accidents (none my fault) in the baltimore area I invested in 2 of these. One to cover the front and one for the rear windshield.

Search for "HD Car DVR 2.5 TFT LCD 270° 6 IR LED" on ebay, you can grab one for $20. Mine shipped from hong kong. It is cheaply made and has some rattles sometimes, but that is only on the video itself. It works very well and takes some pretty clear video for the price. You can set it to record until out of space or set it to record in 5 or 10 minute intervals and it will delete old footage as it runs out of space. I put an 8gb sdcard in mine and it lasts a long time.

Here is how it looks http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DuvGjOMmxSo which imo is pretty damn good for $20.

Looks like the same one is posted below from Amazon as well by TwistedMexi. http://www.amazon.com/2-5-inch-Vehicle-Recorder-Dashboard-Camcorder/dp/B0053DDNW6/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1376583384&sr=1-1&keywords=dash+cam

This looks like the same one on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/2-5-inch-Vehicle-Recorder-Dashboard-Camcorder/dp/B0053DDNW6

I bought this one a while ago. It's not phenomenal quality, but it's good enough to distinctly make out the license plate of a car in front of you. It's great for the price and the charger it comes with has an insanely long cable. I snaked it around my car so it doesn't dangle randomly. I can post a video tomorrow if you want to see the quality.

I would say this is a good list for those looking to take nice pictures on a budget.

But if you were going to be a photography student or really try to make a go at it i would stay skip the older lenses and just invest in a $125 or $400 50mm prime lens from your cameras manufacturer.

I also would say not to be scared to pick up a used one from a reputable dealer on ebay for a bigger discount

The sharpness, loca, ect will be better and all of the electronics (like autofocus) will work.

Canon T2i, which is an awesome camera, but the REAL winner is the f1.4 lens I use with it.

Really wonderful lens, the low light capabilities are amazing. Some of my other posts have pictures, almost all taken with that same lens.

Congratulations on your birthday! However, regarding the lens, isn't the equivalent Canon lens actually cheaper (or at least the same price) than this? (I'm looking at http://www.amazon.co.uk/Canon-Lens-50-1-4-USM/dp/B00009XVCZ/)

I've just bought the Canon 50mm F1.4 from Amazon in the UK. In the picture, it has white detail (Pic here)

The one that has arrived has gold detail, which appears to be an older version. Is there any material difference or is this just trim? I could have got the older version from eBay for cheaper, but thought it best to get the most recent version, which is why I went with Amazon. I am tempted to return it, but would much rather get snapping with it! :)

Thoughts welcome! Thanks.

There may be better options out there, but I have this one and I like it. The ball joint is reassuringly firm and the legs are pretty solid when extended. When folded up, the legs form a V-shaped channel that lets the tripod rest stably against a rounded pole/rail/whatever, whether using the velcro strap or (as I sometimes do) simply holding the tripod against a rail during a long exposure.

I have one of those and I have a Pedco Ultrapod II and I prefer the Ultrapod. It just feels more stable, and it weighs less (4.2 oz vs 6 or so). Costs $18.50.

https://www.amazon.com/Pedco-UltraPod-Lightweight-Camera-Tripod/dp/B000ANCPNM/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1487616740&sr=1-1&keywords=ultrapod+2
I use this tripod for a variety of things, including astrophotography. It's ability to strap to poles/logs is really handy!

I have an UltraPod II that I really like. Pedco UltraPod II Lightweight Camera Tripod https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ANCPNM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yr.2Db46K6ADG

Positioned well, it’s sturdy enough for my Nikon D3100 with the zoom lens on it. I’ve never used the strap but it’s a nice option.

If money isn’t an issue, the Peak Design tripod that just launched looks really spiffy, especially in carbon fiber.

I did a 4 day backpacking trip last year and brought a canon 5d iv, 100mm macro f2.8L, and 16-35mm f4L is, and an Ultrapod I got on amazon.

Not the lightest setup but not bad. I could have left one lens at home but decided to bring the macro cause its such a versatile lens.

The tripod worked out great. I left the tripod attached to the camera, and rigged it up so I could hang it off my chest strap so it wasn't in the way while hiking.

I use an ultra pod

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ANCPNM?pc_redir=1408113610&robot_redir=1

Really sturdy, light, and can be fastened to pretty much anything. Also, it takes up nearly no space at all.

Advice:

I have a smartphone that has HD video recording.
There are many variants but I purchased a tripod and use it to record my tennis by mounting the phone to the fence.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ANCPNM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I find watching yourself play is vastly important in understanding how you move as well as what your strokes actually look like. I coach myself because I'm beyond my junior tennis years so this is an invaluable tool that has helped me hit better forehands due to noticing the distance between me and the ball was too close.

Interesting that they have no mention of camera or lens restrictions.
You should show up with this and see how it goes.

Short answer that does not involve buying new lenses: set the ISO to auto, shutter speed higher (1/500?), and exposure compensation at +1 (test and adjust).

Bonus, if your ISO isn't rocking it at 1600, put the camera in Av and stop down a little (f/8 maybe), and watch that the shutter speed stays high. You might have to take the ISO off of auto and put it at 800 or 1200.

If you want to buy a new lens, there's always the Sigma 200-500 f/2.8.

[You could buy a car or...] (http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-200-500mm-Ultra-Telephoto-Canon-Cameras/dp/B0013D8VDQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1418718180&sr=1-4&keywords=lens)

Honestly I just bought this. 2 for less than $25.

They're obviously very cheap but I'm not planning on moving them around much. They don't need to be durable.

I'm still using the super cheap suggestion. Working fine since April 5th when I got the vive. Two homes, one workplace, one convention center (next to walls because bass from concerts shaking the floor), one outdoors area under a gazeebo (against a support beam because wind).


$22 for 2 tripods:

http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4

$5 each for a mount you can swivel (buy two):

http://www.amazon.com/EXMAX-Tripod-Camera-Camcorder-Bracket/dp/B012FTXOW4

http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4

cowboy studio wireless trigger and maybe a pair of light stand

I use this tripod, but it does come with two tripods. Maybe you could find a solo elsewhere, but having two allows you to take your Vive to somewhere and set it up for demos. Did that at a friend's house a few months ago and it worked great.

Also make sure you have a mount of some kind to make sure your lighthouse can be positioned accordingly.

THIS ONE.

But honestly, Lightroom has the biggest effect if you ask me.

I am still relatively new here but have seen you guys give so much I can't help to think you are Santa Claus or something! I admire you!

Rasta, I heard you have an unhealthy obsession with Bane.. Let's just say I kind of got escorted away from my Uni for wearing my bane suit for an outdoor showing of TDKR!! :)

Gee I am making this so long! I think I could use a safety razor after some time I have spent on wicked_edge! this one particularly!

Also as a photographer I could use a reflector so badly! I just started doing fashion portraits instead of my regular street photography/landscapes and this is a must! I like this one for the price! (<$20)

And the magic words:
C'mon...gimme.

Consider a reflector. Small and cheap way to add some light for a photo.

Neewer 43-inch / 110cm 5-in-1 Collapsible Multi-Disc Light Reflector with Bag - Translucent, Silver, Gold, White and Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ZIMEMW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CZKwzb1X89KQ5

Maybe a few of these

Five of these, though you should sometimes, (I think usually), use China balls instead of the reflector.

Just one of these

Any of these you need that are either Rosco or Manfrotto. I think buying individual ones instead of large packs is smarter.

Clothespins, aluminum foil, and white sheets are all helpful and you can get them at Target.

That's all I use personally, but a lot of professionals, such as Rodrigo Prieto, use these, so if you have a thousand dollars to spare. On the other hand, short of occasional Arris in larger spaces, Roger Deakins tries to use mainly incandescents indoors, often with China balls, or China balls that have had half of them spray painted black.

Inside rigging is easy, but outside, sticking a two-by-four in the hole of a cinder block can work well.

Dont forget to get extension cords, power strips with circuit breakers, and maybe some plug in dimmers, though for incandescents, you should always dim by changing the bulb wattage and for those halogen work lights, they get way orange when you dim.

Also, I didn't include China balls because I could link you to ten dollar ones, or you could get them for a dollar each at Chinese gift shops, dollar stores, whatever.

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW/ref=sr_1_4?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1480092542&sr=1-4&keywords=REFLECTOR

I've used these for several shoots with great success. for 20 dollars build quality is great and i dont see them falling apart anytime soon. Unless youre going to be shooting a loooooot of portraits i wouldnt spend more.

You can get some cheap lighting stands that are typically used for filming, I ended up getting a pair specifically marketing the vive tracker boxes and they work great.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFG14ZT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

As far as the height, it's recommended to have them above your head at least, however when I play BeatSaber I have one above my head and slightly to my left, and one around waist level slightly to my right.

​

They're also a little bit heavier than they look and they do heat up at times at least in my experiences, adhesives might not preform very well compared to securing them by other means

The Deluxe audio strap is a good buy. It increases comfort by quite a lot.

Also, if you do not have stands for the lighthouses, I recommend getting some, as the brackets that come with the standard issue are not usable by any means. It also saves you from having to bolt the lighthouse to your wall. I use
these

The Rift sensors uses standard camera threading, ie 1/4-20 (1/4" diameter, 20 threads per inch).

It's convenient because it lets you use just about any camera tripod or mount for the sensors. For example:

Security camera mount

Camera stands

Selfie Stick

Here guys:

• Fovitech lightbox stands + ball head mount @ Amazon - $48.86
  
  
• Fovitech lightbox stands + ball head mount @ Ebay - $44.95
  
  
• Lightbox stands on a budget - $23.50
  
  
• Memory foam - $29.00

Don't search for a tripod. They will take up a lot of floor space as they have short neck, long telescopic legs. Search for light stands which have short legs, long telescopic necks. Some people may worry this leads to wobble. It doesn't. 1. I have already got this setup because; 2. As a photographer, i have a lot of light-stands and regularly put several thousand pounds worth of equipment on the them with no issue and complete confidence. If it can hold a studio strobe still, it can hold a small camera.

The only thing you may need depending on the stand is a cheap adjustable head for the top of the stand so you can told the sensor further down towards the floor.

edit: Someone already makes a lightstand build for vr with adjustable heads.
https://www.amazon.com/Fovitec-StudioPRO-Light-Compatible-Carrying/dp/B01MFG14ZT/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1486238594&sr=8-1&keywords=vr+light+stand

I think it's worth it to prepare how you're going to set up your sensors. The OG Vive came with wall mounts... But I went with stands

Fovitec - 2X 7'6" VR Gaming Lighthouse Mount Stand Kit - [HTC Vive and Oculus Rift Compatible][Adjustable Ball Heads][Includes Carrying Bag] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFG14ZT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_M5D-BbA0TD3TW

https://www.amazon.com/Fovitec-StudioPRO-Light-Compatible-Carrying/dp/B01MFG14ZT/ref=pd_sbs_421_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01MFG14ZT&pd_rd_r=S8HAGZSQH1BG7AYNWJAR&pd_rd_w=n7VeO&pd_rd_wg=P1HgC&psc=1&refRID=S8HAGZSQH1BG7AYNWJAR

not OP, but they look like the same ones I ordered: Amazon Link

at the time, I heard it was one of the best point and shoots you could get, the Sony RX100 I kind of love it. :)

I got this camera and love it.

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-DSC-RX100-Sensor-Digital-Camera/dp/B00889ST2G

Just don't get a big bulky DSLR. A lot of point and shoots these days are shooting great quality photos with HD video. And nice and sleek to fit into a pocket. I also have a little admin pouch type thing I can wear on my kit to slip my camera and other things into so I lessen the risk of banging it on something.

Sony RX100 is an excellent compact from reviews.

Paper to diffuse the light: I use tracing paper, cheap and effective.

Light source: realize you don't need a continuous light source for shooting stills. You best option is a couple (or more) cheap, manual strobes like Yongnuo YN 560 and a wireless remote trigger like Yongnuo RF-603NII. That will give you A LOT of light allowing you very good photographic results at low ISO and narrow lens aperture.

Check out Yongnuo, for instance this one.

http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Professional-Speedlight-Flashlight-Olympus/dp/B00BXA7N6A/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1394639311&sr=1-1&keywords=yongnuo+flash+nikon

You'll want to use an off camera flash. As a general rule, you don't ever want to use your on-camera flash. For about $100, you can get a wireless-enabled flash and a wireless trigger for it. Make sure your you select an appropriate model for your camera brand.

You would take a test shot without the flash to make sure everything that isn't covered by the flash is pretty much all black, then with those settings, shoot with the flash until you find an appropriate power output for the effect you're going for.

Why not spend $63 on a flash? Flashes are good.

https://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Professional-Speedlight-Flashlight-Olympus/dp/B00BXA7N6A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481695074&sr=8-3&keywords=yongnuo+flash

Shop lights from Home Depot... 37 bucks will get you 1,000 watts. They have cheaper configurations as well, put off a ton of heat tho.

As someone else has mentioned Yongnuo speed lights. I picked up three of the YN 560 III at 70 bucks a pop and have been very, very impressed with the quality and performance.

Those silver sunscreens for car windshields will work as a make shift reflector, then again so would white poster board.

I'm pretty sure rigging up a homemade snoot wouldn't take much imagination, or a homemade honeycomb style grid (straws perhaps? Google is showing me one with corrugated cardboard, clever).

It's getting to be the holidaes, LED christmas lights will be on shelves. Could use them to rig up a ring light perhaps.

This site covers some of what I touched on and more: http://www.popphoto.com/DIYLighting

But at the end of the day nothing works as well as lighting and equipment designed for photography mostly do to how much light you really need to be effective. Just think that the sun throws roughly 1000 watts per square meter, achieving that kind of saturation while still remaining useful can be quite tricky.

Alright, so let me try to break down your problem a little bit. You're running into a few issues:

• Lapel mics are usually condenser mics, which require phantom power.
  
• Microphone connections are usually "balanced"
  
  Condenser Mics
  
  Condenser mics are a type of microphone that operates using capacitors and other circuitry. The advantage is that they are smaller and generally more sensitive. The downside is that they require power to function.
  
  In studios / stages, the "phantom" power (48 Volts) is supplied by the mixing board or installed infrastructure. In field settings, you need a battery of some kind to power the microphone. This could be a belt-pack or a DI Box. You now can find condensers that are designed to work with smartphones; I'm not 100% sure, but I think they are using one wire in the TRRS connector for power.
  
  Balanced Signals
  
  Most microphones use a "Balanced" connection (XLR, TRS). A balanced connection generally uses 3 wires to send a single (i.e. mono) audio signal. The way this works is that one wire is the shield, and the other two wires both carry the signal (out of phase with each other). The benefit of this is that any noise introduced along the cable can be cancelled out when you compare the two signal wires.
  
  The confusion comes when people decide to send two (i.e. stereo) signals over the same kind of connector (e.g. TRS). In that case what you get is a neutral wire, a left audio wire, and a right audio wire. This is an "unbalanced" connection, and does not have the noise rejection property that balanced connections do.
  
  What you need
  
  So, if I may take a stab at describing what you're trying to do; you're trying to take two balanced audio signals (your two mics) and use them as the L/R channels in the unbalanced TRS connector on your camera.
  
  So, you need to first find way to power your mics: beltpacks, DI box, or other, then find a way to make them unbalanced, then connect them to a L/R TRS breakout cable.
  
  Make Sense?

Zoom H1/MB Registratore Digitale su Amazon 98€. Microfono lavalier 66€. L'audio è la parte più importante di un cortometraggio, puoi avere delle immagini scadenti ma se hai un audio perfetto (decente) ha fatto il 70% del lavoro. 😉

> The Hosa cable is is XLR to 3.5 mm, which is the standard size on practically every phone

Yes, but a 3.5mm TRS cable will line up with the headphone out connections, not the microphone in connections, because the phone's connector is TRRS. It will fit, but it won't work.

This would be your best option. If you're really set on using a dynamic mic, you'll need an adapter like this.

(I'm biased towards Sony and shoot with an A6500 and A7RII. I plan to preorder the A7SIII when it's announced).

I recommend the Sony RX100 VI if you want an all in one, or go with an A6500 for it's in-body stabilization, amazing low-light, 120fps slow motion/4k, and the ability to take some great photos as well. The lens on the VI is built in but is supposed to be really good but the A6500 allows you to shoot with different lenses to get the shots you want.

RX100 VI - https://www.trustedreviews.com/reviews/sony-rx100-vi

A6500 - https://www.trustedreviews.com/reviews/sony-alpha-a6500

External mic if you want better audio - https://www.amazon.com/Rode-VMGO-Lightweight-Microphone-Super-Cardioid/dp/B00GQDORA4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536635571&sr=8-3&keywords=videomic

Can't say about the a6000, but the built-in microphone really isn't bad on my a7r ii for vlogging purposes.

For a step up, people have been swearing by the Rode VideoMic Go, which doesn't require any extra batteries. In my opinion though, the Rode VideoMic series (Pro and Go) always gives a kind of low-level hiss that I find somewhat annoying. You can easily get rid of that hiss during post though.

Hi evilmonkey - the new [$298 Sony Music Video Recorder] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EVIBMR2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00EVIBMR2&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) might be what you're looking for.

Here are some examples of what it can do: https://www.youtube.com/user/MVRbySony/videos

It doesn't have a zoom lens, so it's good for small venues - but not so good for big concerts.

Another option would be the [$387 (on sale) Panasonic FZ200] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MB6ZX0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B008MB6ZX0&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), with its 24x constant f2.8 zoom and 2.5mm external mic jack.

Here is my FZ150 (the FZ200's older brother) with an external mic and a [$2 3.5mm to 2.5mm adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QU3JN4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000QU3JN4&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20): https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/p4I1G-p5nraBO7lfPcPFNcMeX8oU9O2UHnPDiRshn9E=w815-h543-no

The FZ200 is [not that much larger than the EOS M] (http://camerasize.com/compare/#349,351), and there's no way you'll get a 24x constant f2.8 lens for the EOS M for a reasonable amount of money.

Even with its internal mic, the FZ200 sounds pretty good at concerts: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3PkFNogHwiQ

With an external mic, you will get even better results. Here it is with the [$229 Rode Videomic Pro] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K8WPUQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004K8WPUQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0uQRJohR0lA

If the camera plus the Videomic Pro is too expensive, you might want to look at the smaller [$99 Videomic Go] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GQDORA4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00GQDORA4&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20).

Hope this is helpful,

Bill

SD Cards

According to Canon's website, the t3i can record about 22 minutes to an 8GB SD card. So a 32GB card should be about 88 minutes.

When shopping for an SD card I would always suggest a name brand for reliability. For your specific camera, any card labeled SD/SDHC/SDXC should be compatible. For shooting 1080P video you want at least Class 10 speeds (the little C with a 10 in it). Faster cards are still backwards compatible.

I would suggest something like this SanDisk 32GB Class 10. And I'd probably buy a couple, you never want to be without a spare card!

Lighting

I'm no expert when it comes to video lighting, I only do photography, and even then I'm not an expert. But as a techie, before buying expensive lights, I would just try to use some LED light bulbs in those stands you already have as they're a standard lamp socket, to get more light and less heat.

Perhaps something like these 20W bulbs? You can try any bulb as long as it has an E26/E27 base is no more than 45 watts.

Something like these LED flood lights might work since they're directional, but they're probably too wide to fit with the umbrellas on.

Lenses

Getting that bokeh may be difficult. There are five factors that affect background blur, one of which is sensor size, obviously you're not going to buy a new camera, so the sensor size is a fixed value.

To get more background blur you need one or more of the following, a lower fstop on your lens, a higher focal length, to get as close to your subject as possible, and to get the background as far away as possible. So your desire for a wider lens is conflicting with your desire for background blur, and it sounds like space is an issue.

Additionally, since you have a crop sensor camera, lenses are really more zoomed (by 1.6x) in than they would be on a full frame sensor. So your kit lens, I assume goes down to 18mm? So on your camera that is more like 29mm (about the same as a smartphone camera).

I don't necessarily know if I would recommend a wide lens for your application since it will lead to less background blur and will exaggerate facial features when up close, as shown in this example. Although background blur may be impossible if you're in a cramped space anyhow. So if you're going to attempt a wide angle lens, the Canon EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 looks like the best, most affordable option (I use Nikon gear myself, so I don't have personal experience), which is equivalent to a 16mm-29mm on your camera. However, that fstop number is higher than both your kit lens and 50mm, which means it lets in less light, which could be an issue.

Conclusion

Hopefully that information was useful and not too confusing. Feel free to ask for clarification if needed. Good luck!

So the hard part with your request is that you don't get much of the shallow DOF effect that you're going for with a wide angle. It is possible, just difficult.

Casey Neistat uses a 10-22mm Canon lens that seems to work well for him. I personally use a 10-18 Canon lens that works well for me during my shoots.

The EF-S 10-18mm f4.5-5.6 IS STM is one of the better ultrawides that Canon makes, assuming that's what kind of lens you're looking for regarding landscapes. It runs ~$280 new, but you can find it a bit cheaper at ~$240 if you opt for a refurbished model (you still get the same 1yr warranty as if you purchased new).

I have asked this question before but I am still as confused as I was when I asked it the last time. I am trying to decide between the 25mm and 45mm micro four thirds (so 50/90 for dslrs) focal lengths for a prime. I have taken shots at both focal lengths and I can't really decide upon which one to go with. I even tried taking a selection of the photos that I like the most from my collection and took a sum of the focal lengths and averaging it which gave me 35mm (70mm for dslrs). I am trying to get my first prime and I don't want to be disappointed once I buy it. I am looking at the Panasonic 25mm f1.7 ASPH and the Olympus M.Zuiko Digital 45mm f1.8

Can someone guide me through how I would choose what is best for me? I already own a M.Zuiko 12-50mm kit lens but I am really looking for something that I can keep on the OMD EM5 all the time when I am travelling.

I have been looking up websites and reviews and everything and both these lenses seems to be good. Here is my instagram in case someone needs to see the kind of photos that I take. I only started a few weeks ago, so there's not much in there.

Hoping someone can help me with this decision.

The Sony A6000 Hands down the best in that price range. You are going to want decent audio though so I would recommend also getting something like The Rode Video Micro.

youtube vlogging setups is also a great place to get some really good info!

Røde do the best in my opinion, this will be enough for what you asking for as long as you aren't an audiophile:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B015R0IQGW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jQVzyb0Q2900M

Also just check if you really need a microphone, most cameras have fairly reasonable quality now, especially for YouTube and such

[Rode's VideoMicro](http://amzn.to/2d9pZRN "Rode VideoMicro") may be a good option for your needs. It comes with a fuzzy windscreen which should help reduce wind noise.

You can use a flash bracket (example) to use accessories like microphones and LED lights with your camera. The bracket attaches via the camera's tripod mount and provides you with a couple cold shoe mounts.

Review by David Thorpe: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YiJJjgr3MzA

Adorama: https://www.adorama.com/ipc2517m.html?gclid=CJbiuY_MltMCFceBfgodJjUMUQ

B&H: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1182677-REG/panasonic_h_h025k_25mm_f_1_7_lens_for.html

Amazon:https://www.amazon.com/PANASONIC-LUMIX-Mirrorless-Thirds-H-H025K/dp/B014RD6RC0

Below are some affordable lenses that will make a world of difference for portrait photography

The following lens almost never leaves my camera.
https://www.amazon.com/PANASONIC-LUMIX-MIRRORLESS-THIRDS-H-H025K/dp/B014RD6RC0

Below is a very cheap lens that will give you so much blur it will be hard to manually focus.
https://www.amazon.com/C-Mount-Adapter-OLYMPUS-panasonic-LX100/dp/B01LCHOKPK

Older version:
https://www.amazon.com/Fotasy-M3517-Adapter-Olympus-Panasonic/dp/B005FDH1UO

You should check out the example pics for each lens in the review section. The lower the f stop and the higher the focal distance the more background blur.

As a M43 user I have to jump in and recommend the Olympus EPL7. It has 3 axis IBIS so taking pictures sub 100 shutter without a tripod is very doable. Its touchscreen enables you to change focus points as well as take a picture with a touch of a finger. Both those things just make usability so much easier.

You also said that portability is important. With a M43 kit, you will have a kit that is 40%-50% smaller than an APSC kit (even vs a Sony mirrorless). The thing with APSC mirrorless is that cameras are smaller, but lenses still have to be near the same size as your standard Canon or Nikon lenses. A m43 kit being so small, also means that there is no excuse not to bring the camera everywhere you go. For most people, they only bring their camera when they plan to shoot since the bulk makes it inconvenient.

The M43 system has one of the widest variety and fleshed out lens ecosystem out there. With 2 main companies invested, and many third parties also joining in, there are just so many lens options. I would pair this camera with a Panny 25mm that is on a nasty price drop at the moment. Cool thing with M43 is that you don't have to worry about shooting wide open, since the sensor is small enough to make most lenses sharp, even when open all the way. For ultimate portability you could go the Panny 20mm. This would make the EPL7 practically a pocket camera with super sharp images. I wouldn't recommend getting the 20mm new though as it is usually widely available on the used market at a lower price.

There is also /r/M43 if you want to check out more.

Get a nifty fifty in mirrorless style aka 25mm f/1.7 (http://amzn.to/2iUnOGd). But you don't need to get it immediately. Kit lens is enough for the beginning. Yes, you can your canon lens with adapter but no auto focus and aperture control.

Consider getting a G85 with a few cheap primes like Panasonic's 25mm f1.7, then. IBIS is really amazing for run-n-gun. I own the GH5 myself, and I rarely even bring a monopod/tripod out with me when I know it's going to be 'that' kind of shoot.

You won't have nearly as much DR as the BMPCC but you'll have 4k and a much more usable camera. You'll get more shots than you miss with the G85 as a tool compared to the BMPCC and that's ultimately all that matters.

Saved https://web.archive.org/web/20190719165945/https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014RD6RC0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i personally have the panasonic leica summilux 25mm f1.4 which is a beautiful lens! but the panasonic f1.7 is also awesome and a hell of a lot cheaper!! (amazon referral links)

The Panasonic 25mm f1.7 lens is an absolute steal at $150 or so, I had a lot of fun with it this weekend after getting it on Thursday. There are some documented issues on this lens with a thing called focus shift but (check my comment history) I ran some tests and wasn't able to reproduce any of the problems other people seem to have had. For a relatively small (on my GX85 the whole kit fits in my jacket pocket) and lightweight lens with good bokeh and sharpness with a wide aperture for low-light situations, fast autofocus, and the versatile 25mm (nifty fifty) focal length, I can't think of a better bang for your buck. You might get marginally better results with the Oly equivalent but not worth more than twice as much money.

As far as downsides to this lens, its focal length is a little tight for landscape shots (I'll still be using my 12-32mm pancake kit lens for those), and it's not as compact as the 20mm f1.7 Panasonic. But with the 20mm pancake being over $100 more, I couldn't justify it, especially with the problems the 20mm apparently has with slow autofocus (no bueno for street photography and shots of fast moving pets). I wanted this lens to take pictures of the puppy I'm getting in a month, and because I needed to add a solid fast prime to my collection (I'm a noob just like you).

Given all the research I did last week leading up to purchasing the lens, I would wager that the Panasonic 25mm f1.7 is as good a beginner prime as you can get on an m43 system and I'm happy to answer any questions you might have or take some test shots if you wanna see what the lens looks like :)

EDIT: Appears the lens has gone up to $250 on Amazon since I bought it last week, but looks like it tends to be go back to around $150 often based on recent price history: https://camelcamelcamel.com/PANASONIC-LUMIX-MIRRORLESS-THIRDS-H-H025K/product/B014RD6RC0

Panasonic G7 and Rode VideoMicro would be best for you. The Panasonic G7 shoots killer 4k, does 1080p at 60fps (for slow-motion potential), is compatible with a wide variety of lenses and if you live in the U.S. can be had for $699 brand new right now from Amazon with a lens included, or, if you're okay with like-new-in-box, B&H Photo/Video has it for just $599 with the same kit lens. Even if you don't live in the U.S., you can usually get a good deal if you shop around. I live in Canada where it normally costs $1000, but I got mine for $700 like-new-in-box.

As for a microphone, the Rode VideoMicro is cheap, small and great-sounding for the price. It can be had for $59.99 from Amazon if you're an Amazon Prime subscriber, or, if you're not, B&H also sells it for $59.99.

That combination would be the best way to go for people looking to get into video for under $1000.

I'm looking to get a microphone to attach to my DSLR for filmmaking, I just need a generally good all-rounder. Budget £75 but can go for more if you can persuade me of the benefits.

I'm looking at a couple of different RODE mics but it's confusing what the benefits are when they're so similarly priced -

https://www.amazon.co.uk/R%C3%98DE-VideoMic-GO-Camera-Microphone/dp/B00GQDORA4/ £50

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rode-VideoMicro-Compact-Camera-Microphone/dp/B015R0IQGW £42

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Camera-Audio-VideoMic-Rycote-Mount/dp/B00CAE8PM4/ £70

I don't know anything about sound so any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

It might be pretty under budget, but I got recommended the Rode Videomicro over on the /r/videography subreddit and have been loving it. It's just a standard shutgun mic, pretty small, comes with a fur and an antishock mount.

So far I've used it for filming crowds, which it handles decently, done some range testing outside with people talking, which it does very well, and I've done a voiceover for a documentary-like piece. The mic was really nice overall, but it suffers from phantom power, in that you have to use the camera's preamp, which is decent on the G7, I'd say.

$59 in the US, from Adorama.

[58€ in the EU, from Amazon.] (https://www.amazon.de/Rode-VIDEOMICRO-VMMICRO-VideoMicro/dp/B015R0IQGW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465681346&sr=8-1&keywords=rode+videomicro)

There's also the Videomicro's bigger brother, the Videomic. Don't really have experience with that one, but if reviews are to be believed, it does what the Videomicro does, just bigger and better. It's battery powered, also.

91€ in the EU from Amazon, although I couldn't find an option in the US for under a hundred.

Just my $.02

My favorite guides to budget film making are the old Film Riot videos and DSLR Video Shooter

For Audio I would personally recommend the RODE VideoMicro It is $60 or so and with a boompole it would be a great dialogue and sound effect mic.

Some of the cheaper light kits on Amazon (i.e. LimoStudio, Fancier Studio, Neewer) are OK? I use the LimoStudio kit and it works for small rooms but anything further than 8-10 feet is almost useless. I would recommend getting the work lights and wax paper mentioned by /u/potablepotents

Hope this helps, and I'd be interested in seeing you final project or working with you!

Rode video Micro is great too (lighter than the VideoMic Pro). Got one of them as well - it's a shotgun mic as the previous commenter suggested.

What are you using to film?

EDIT: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rode-VideoMicro-Compact-Camera-Microphone/dp/B015R0IQGW/

either this: https://www.amazon.com/RODE-VideoMicro-Osmo-Quick-Release/dp/B01CSAV5BC/

or this: https://www.amazon.com/Rode-VideoMicro-Compact-Camera-Microphone/dp/B015R0IQGW/

I can definitely say I'm jealous! I wish I could do what you're doing.

The quality of the footage is definitely nice and high, which is always important in vlogs, especially in travel vlogs. I definitely recommend picking up some kind of microphone to improve the talking quality, but it's honestly not bad. It's just the easiest nitpick to make. One cost effective mic that I've had repeatedly recommended to me is this one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015R0IQGW/?coliid=I27W1PR76WPIHS&colid=1T8AH88FFX71&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

The music felt fitting, and had that 'pop' music feel that is very appropriate for this type of video. I can agree with noodltube in that you should focus more on having the commentary match the clips (if at all possible), but I think the shots you did provide were really nice for the most part.

I would also suggest lowering the background audio as well.

Finding a format for videos, I find, is one of the biggest difficulties in creating content. I would suggest you heavily focus on determining what your format should be for future videos. This was just a trailer of sorts, so I'm not really criticizing this video as much as just giving you hopefully helpful hints for the future.

Keep giving it your all and I wish you luck on your journey! Sorry if my criticisms sound too harsh, I think you're off to a fine start.

I use this takstar (30$) - http://amzn.to/2rx9Qwe

Here's a sample video/vlog of mine on my g7 outside in chicago. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSsQcUmsflo&t


Short review: I think its best bang for the buck. For 30$ it's half the price of the rode micro and the quality is within 90ish% of the quality of rode and sometimes better. The only cons I would say is its a bit bigger, and the on/off is annoying sometimes bc I forget to flip it on and my video records without audio. If you got 60$ I'd go with the rode micro - http://amzn.to/2pYWFDk. Its smaller and easier to use.

This baby

Canon's offering shows better MTF resolution on borders than Sigma. If buying for a full frame sensor, this may push you to buy Canon. If you have a crop sensor, the Sigma may suffice.

Last I checked, Canon seems to be offering it's lens for much cheaper than Sigma.

Correct me if I'm missing something, but it seems to be a no brainer for Canon 50mm f/1.4 to me.

The $100 50 mm lens is great. Takes some getting used to, having to zoom with your feet and all, but the quality is insane. I took this and this with the lens. However, it does have its drawbacks. I really would have liked to get a crisp shot of your skyline, so this just inspired me to cough up the money for the 50 mm f1/4. The f/1.8 is a great start though.

There's no Canon 50mm f/1.5, there are only f/1.8, f/1.4, and f/1.2.

Look at prime lenses my friend.

• You could pick up a couple fast (large aperture) prime lenses for $800. If you buy them used you can get three of them. Take a look at this page to see what Canon lenses are available. For example, I have used the EF 35mm f/2 (~$350) and EF 28mm f/1.8 USM (~$500) and they are both nice lenses.
  
  
• Even though the 50mm f/1.8 II is a great lens for the cost, the EF 50mm f1.4 USM (~$400) is a worthwhile upgrade. Faster, less CA, sharper, higher quality build, smoother focusing, etc. I love it for both photos and video.
  
  
• I do not own this lens, but the EF 200mm f/2.8L II USM (~$800) is a wonderful portrait and landscape photography lens. And because it's fast it can be used for action and event photography, however it is limiting because of its long reach.
  
  
• The EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM (~$600) is also a good lens. Great for both macro and portrait photography. There is also the EF 100mm f/2.8L IS USM. L class glass with IS for $300-$400 more.
  
  Regarding your Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8: If you're shooting wider than 15mm make sure you take off the hood, otherwise you'll end up with some funky vignetting. :)

about $350.

im not sure if its worth the exra $250 for just and extra f.4, unless you really need the extra sensitivity in low light...

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-Standard-Medium-Telephoto-Cameras/dp/B00009XVCZ

What is the reason for price difference between these two lenses
Lens 1 & Lens 2

I've got a Cannon T3i and assuming your kit lens doesn't get bashed in by Delta Airlines baggage handlers like mine was your next best lens should either be a 50mm or in my case I've been considering This baby. Keep an eye on lens release dates too because if something has been on the market for a long time it could be possible that the new version is about to come out and you can pick up previous iterations for cheap. I got my 50mm f1.4 for pretty cheap that way however the new lens that came out replaced the old f1.8 at the time.

Another good source for gear is craigslist since a lot of old film camera lenses and most of the gear will work on DSLR bodies. Unfortunately the lenses won't have auto focus or image stabilization but if you are taking scenery shots or pictures of things not moving they can be great.

Lastly if you are looking to get all fancy with your pictures you might want to consider buying a copy of Lightroom or signing up for Adobe's subscription service for Photoshop+Lightroom for about ten bucks a month. Personally for my value I just bought the straight license instead of the Creative Cloud because I can go a few months between actually needing the software.

Canon EF 50mm 1.4.

That being said BUY from a reputable dealer. BHPhoto, Adorama, Photoline, Amazon, Best Buy, those would be good places.

Some random place on the internet showing the lens for much cheaper, not a good place. There are scams with photography equipment from a place that owns many sites. They show their prices as much lower and when you order they call you to "confirm the order" and by confirm I mean they say things like "Well that version doesn't have the metal month, but this version for $80 more does, it also comes in a kit with blah blah".

Do not order from these places. Not only will you pay more or they won't give you the item (but they have your CC info) but you'll get a "grey market" item meaning it has no warranty.

EDIT: Here's the one you want, it's $350 after a post purchase rebate: http://www.amazon.com/Canon-Standard-Medium-Telephoto-Cameras/dp/B00009XVCZ

I would go with the Canon 50mm 1.4 - it is $300 exactly, it is IMO one of the best values in terms of bang for your buck/image quality and you will have lots of fun early on playing/learning with the wide range in aperture settings. Have you seen pictures where the subject stands out against a blurry background - amongst other variables, you get that at lower aperture values, 1.4 being the lowest for this lens. It will not help you much with wildlife, but it is a GREAT first lens to start learning with. One important thing to understand is this is not a zoom lens, it is a fixed focal length lens which means if you want to get closer to an object, you don't zoom in on it with lens, you walk closer to it with your feet.

https://www.amazon.com/Canon-Standard-Medium-Telephoto-Cameras/dp/B00009XVCZ

Just being a completely non-serious devil's advocate here, but if I had a 1D, I don't think I'd mind slapping this lens on it: http://www.amazon.com/Canon-Standard-Medium-Telephoto-Cameras/dp/B00009XVCZ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1291842746&sr=8-2

But yes, I do see your point

I've made due with this one, as it's good for the $100 range, but the focus ring is tiny and there's no distance indicator thingy. Again, I've done okay with it so far.

EDIT: Here's my videos, I believe I used the lens in most of the Toy Bombs video and anywhere in my videos where there is more depth of field. Sadly, I didn't use it in the Slenderman video, even though it was night, because I needed to zoom in and out quickly and it's in Las Vegas so, there's light everywhere. Just remember the 50 would have looked way better there.

If you can spend $400, this one has a better focus ring, the indicator, and it lets in more light so you can shoot at night a little better. I have a short that I recently shot using this lens (borrowed) but I haven't released it online yet. (waiting on music) We shot at night using only streetlamps and reflectors and it worked great.

EDIT: Sorry, I can't link the video, since it's not done, but here's a screengrab from Youtube:

I bought and traveled for a few weeks with an Ultrapod II and couldn't recommend it enough:

https://www.amazon.com/Pedco-UltraPod-Lightweight-Camera-Tripod/dp/B000ANCPNM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484291467&sr=8-1&keywords=ultrapod+2

It carries very easy and so it was always with me, whether I intended to use it or not. The best tripod is the one that is always with you!

I've been toting the same abused Canon Rebel XT up routes for about 4 years now and it's taken every kind of abuse you can imagine. It's been completely submerged in water 3 times, dropped from 10-15 feet twice, scraped up plenty of squeeze chimneys, survived sand dunes, etc. and it still takes great photos. I also almost dropped it off the top of Ancient Art when the strap came unlooped on one side while I was belaying - I barely caught it between my head and my neck before it took a 500 ft. fall. That was one of those, "are you in a safe spot!?" moments haha. Usually I just throw my old (almost equally abused) 50mm on there, but sometimes I use the old 18-55 kit lens that came with it. I've accepted it's eventual mortality, but I'll still be sad to see the little guy go when it's day comes. I have a normal manfrotto tripod, but if I plan on doing any tripod shooting on technical outings I usually just bring this guy along and it works like a charm.

Manfrotto Mini Tripod and Pedco UltraPod are the 2 that are about the same size.

There are several more conventional tripods that are made for travel and fairly small, but that would depend on your budget.

Yeah, lenses are always expensive. I usually go with at least a 18-200 and a wide angle, but each of those are 20+ oz. Thanks for the tip on the used a6000, I’ll have to look for one in the future.

This is the tripod I go with if you’re looking for a small one. 4.2oz

I use a trailpix universal. It uses my trekking poles and a single tent style collapsible pole for the third leg. It's definitely the lightest tripod solution around, but isn't perfect. It takes a minute or two to get it set up, and when in using my poles for my shelter I have to borrow a friend's so i can do my night photography.

I think i will also pick up one of [http://www.amazon.com/Pedco-UltraPod-Lightweight-Camera-Tripod/dp/B000ANCPNM] (these) which will be better for run and gun static shots while hiking.

This thing has been indispensable for me.

[pedco II](Pedco UltraPod II Lightweight Camera Tripod https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ANCPNM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1MHQybNPHG0B6)

If you are really into photography then I wouldn't listen to a lot of these people about not bringing your camera along. I would reconsider your tripod if it isn't lightweight. There are a variety of options if you absolutely want a tripod for time-lapse photos or long-distance stuff to keep steady. For example, I own this 1.2 pound tripod and pack it on day hikes. I also have a small one that weighs in at 4 oz and can take picks sitting on a rock, etc.

Edit:

I read your comment about your lenses. Unless your kit lens as a big zoom on it then leave it at home. The 14mm on the 35mm platform is going to give you really nice wide angle shots for those expansive views, and the 50mm will be good for up close stuff.

I've been using a Gorillapod for my GoPro and an Ultra-Pod for my a6000 when I'm out travelling. Definitely both on the short side but they both save on space and are ridiculously light. For me, I'd have the size and weight advantage since I can usually easily find something to elevate the tripods on.

I got this UltraPod II mini-tripod for my a6500 and 18-105 lens:
https://www.amazon.com/Pedco-UltraPod-Lightweight-Camera-Tripod/dp/B000ANCPNM/ref=cm_cr_othr_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

It's only about 7" tall (you said it didn't have to be very tall ...) but has a velcro strap that makes it easy to attach to fences or branches, so it's pretty versatile.

If you can, try and grab one of these "mini" tripods. I use this and I always carry it with my kit. It's by no means a replacement for a quality tripod, but for the small size and low weight it's awesome. For $20 you can't really go wrong with it.

edit: The plain UltraPod (non II version) is smaller if you are REALLY concerned about size, but I won't go smaller than the vII with a DSLR.

I use the Ultrapod . It’s very versatile.

Perhaps not what you're looking for as this UltraPod II is small, but it is sturdy and strong enough to easily support a DSLR camera with a speedlite mounted, and it fits in my bag very well. Here's a video review, and here you can find the included instructions. I don't dare to share with you the large tripod I have, because I rarely use it and honestly is light but not sturdy, and it has slided from time to time on slippery floors. Protip: I have noticed that using UltraPod it is easier for me to handle the camera when shooting videos, by simply mounting the camera on it but without opening its legs, as if it were a steadycam-thing.

Might I also suggest something like this little tripod so that she can get good shots even in low light: http://www.amazon.com/Pedco-UltraPod-Lightweight-Camera-Tripod/dp/B000ANCPNM

I like the ultrapod better than something like a gorilla pod because it more easily adapts to heavier cameras, and still gives amazing flexibility in positioning. Also, it's under $20.

I got the Pelican 1500 with the lid organizer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DYV9H/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00091R0S0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The factory camera tripod doesn't fit with all the other accessories so I got this portable tripod as well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ANCPNM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm not going to insult anyone here but we really need to start being more honest and less "rosey" about some aspects of VR, particularly Oculus users. The carrying case it comes in is better than a cardboard box for sure, it's much nicer. It's not really a carrying case in the sense that you could travel with it, which is what I'm assuming someone would need a case for. It has a string handle and a faux leather exterior. If you're not careful with it around the kitchen I could see it being almost completely destroyed. A Pelican can literally be run over by a truck, kicked around by airport security, and will even serve as a floation device if said airplane crashes. Overkill? Maybe, but you paid $600 for a VR HMD what's another $100. The 1500 fits the HMD perfectly, all cables/accessories, and (once I get dimensions) am 98% confident will fit the touch controllers as well.

If you're curious, the 1510 fits the Vive with all accessories perfectly and the 1400 fits the Gear VR with a Moga Pro perfectly. I have all 3 with cases and did a LOT of research.

Read the Amazon reviews for this lens.

https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-200-500mm-Ultra-Telephoto-Canon-Cameras/dp/B0013D8VDQ

>Well, I finally decided to spring for the Sigma 200-500 f/2.8. For under $30,000 I couldn't pass up the deal. I know, carrying a 37lb lens around may seem like a chore, but the savings in gas to drive to photo shoots more than compensates for it. I actually do most of my Florida and Georgia area outdoor wedding and landscape shoots from my rooftop now. The IQ is tack-sharp even wide open at 1000mm (w/ 2x converter, obviously) The issue I had, was when the FBI and Homeland security showed up at my house. I was shooting a wedding in downtown Orlando, which is only about 30 miles away, from my roof. The house was surrounded and guns drawn on me. You see, I live near enough to a major airport that the neighbors mistook it's green color and imposing size as some sort of ground to air missile launcher. I would strongly consider coloring it a light color to minimize thermal expansion during the day, and marking the side "Not A Stinger Missile". Also, it is a nice walk around lens for family trips to the zoo. Low light performance is superb. Most photos can be taken without flash, on a moonless night, following a massive power outage, by simply lighting a fart during the exposure. Experiment with differing brands of beans, as it affects the color temperature of the raw shot.

200 and above?

PhaseOne IQ250, or if they dont want a studio camera, how about the sigma 200-500 f2.8?

I found the perfect lens for you. It's cheap, compact, light and a focal range that you don't have a lens for.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013D8VDQ/ref=twister_B0064I7KAA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Amateur

Just...to put this into a little perspective....those sights cost almos as much as a Sigma 50-500mm telephoto lens. $1500 for this sexy thing: http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-50-500mm-4-5-6-3-Telephoto-Digital/dp/B003A6H2Y8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449557884&sr=8-1&keywords=sigma+telephoto+nikon

Of course you could always get a little crazy and go with the Sigma 200-500mm f/2.8 APO EX at $25,000

http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-200-500mm-Ultra-Telephoto-Canon-Cameras/dp/B0013D8VDQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1449557837&sr=8-4&keywords=sigma+telephoto

If haven't read the Amazon reviews for this lens, I strongly recommend it.

Sigma 200 - 500 F2.8 + Nikon D800

Means I can finally get some good shots at my kids baseball and soccer games.

Non-mobile link
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013D8VDQ/ref=aw_cr_t_photo6

I love the reviews you get on ridiculous lenses.(there were more last time I looked)

Another "old but gold"

Would these work for mounting?

http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4

http://www.amazon.com/EXMAX-Tripod-Camera-Camcorder-Bracket/dp/B012FTXOW4

I used the tape that I used to hang my curtains (much heavier than the vive sensors), but it's really hard to get it to feel secure because of the small amount you can actually apply to both the sensor and the wall while it's plugged in. My final solution has been these: https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4

They are definitely high enough, and if you buy the little ball adjuster thing that is the most commonly purchased item with those stands you'll be set. They are safe and secure and ive never had a tracking (or line of site between the two sensors) issue like I was having using the curtain tape.

Im using stand similar to these for the lighthouses.

These clips are also solid if you have something appropriate to clip them to.

Grats dude!

These look more then sufficient to hold the lighthouses.
http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4

http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

http://www.amazon.com/Eggsnow-Tripod-Bracket-Holder-Ballhead/dp/B00L23XN9O?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001WB02Z4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3CMJOVFRS6QRR&coliid=I1PA514E40S76H&psc=1


Two for $26

I recently purchased Amazon Basics Lighting Stands to mount the lighthouses on for my Vive and it has really made my experience better. Previously I was limited to a 6'x6' space just barely big enough for room scale, and had difficulties keeping track of my boundaries (I punched the back of my TV prompting the light stand purchase). It's so much nicer to be able to change the position of the lighthouses, and I can now play in a larger space and put everything away when I'm done with it.

I cannot wait until the wireless adapter comes out, I have a large 10'x10' space in my apartment just too far from my PC to use now, it's going to be perfect once the wireless comes out.

Anyone who has a difficult space for mounting the lighthouses or wants more freedom with their setup I really recommend the light stands!

Edit:

CowboyStudio Set of Two 7 feet Photography Light Stands with Cases https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001WB02Z4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_17wvyb1KS6JDT

I believe these are the ones I got, I didn't want to like from Amazon prime now as that may not be available to everyone.

Edit 2: just checked those linked above are the ones I have! I will say the base is somewhat bulky, I'm sure if you wanted to spend a little more you could get some nicer ones. But the general idea of the lighting stands is what I'm plugging rather than that specific product. I love the ones I have and won't be changing them out anytime soon, but if you're concerned about the base width and everything it couldn't hurt to shop around.

you might prefer something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4/ref=sr_1_6?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1480977230&sr=1-6&keywords=light+stand

goes to 7ft, smaller footprint, and you get a matching set for about the same price.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4

I needed the exact same thing. This is what I went with from amazon. They work great. One is the set of the tripods and the other is the mini ball head you will need for each lighthouse with the tripod.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/

I would also recommend extending the triple cable an extra 10 feet. You won't be able to keep the cable and HMD in the box after adding the cables, but it doesn't get tangled as easy and just works better when having other people try it for the first time.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FT9VW0O/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008JHB14/

These and this work quite well, if you want something easier to move around.

I just purchased 5 triggers, 2 stands, 2 umbrella mounts, and 2 Brollyboxes they look like the softlighter mentioned below. I spent about 145 total. I played with it earlier today these are straight out of the camera, if that isn't obvious hahaha.

Hey this is all "Free super saver shipping" because shipping sucks.

• Triggers X2
  
  
• Optical trigger just for shits n giggles
  
  
• Strobe mounts
  
  
• Brolly Boxes
  
  
• Light Stands

So your saying something like this?
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001WB02Z4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Its just I don't have much space and wouldn't those take more space than a bar?

| Total | Quantity | Price | Item |
| -: | -: | -: | :- |
| $130 | 1 | $130 | Green Screen Kit |
| $18 | 3 | $6 | CowboyStudio AC Socket and Umbrella Holder |
| $40 | 2 | $20 | CowboyStudio Umbrella with Removable Cover |
| $25 | 1 | $25 | CowboyStudio Light Stand Pair |
| $15 | 1 | $15 | CowboyStudio Mini Light Stand |
| $60 | 3 | $20 | Alzo 85 Watt CFL (5500K, 4250 Lumens) |
| $288 | | | Grand Total |

Above is a 3 point lighting with green screen solution that's within your $300 budget.

I use a similar setup for most of my daughter's youtube videos that we shoot at home.

Shooting light through an umbrella will make it softer than reflecting it.

85 Watt 5500K (daylight) CFL Bulbs are energy efficient and don't get terribly hot.

You can buy LED lights if you aren't interested in strobes, but you never know.. maybe you'll really take off! Before I got my strobes, I used these from Promaster for lighting smaller areas and they worked like a charm (keep in mind they can get a little hot - don't cook the baby!). But if you're interested in something a little more professional:

The strobe

I personally use a single AlienBee B800. You may be able to photograph newborns with a B400 (a bit more affordable, but pumps out a little less light) version since it won't require you to light many large areas.

The modifier

Then you'll need a modifier to put on it so you can spread that light around the set cleanly. I prefer to go with Fotodiox products, as they are cheap and affective. I own the Fotodiox 36" Octabox.

Then of course, you'll need decent light stand to put them on.

Depending on how you position your strobe, you may also want to get a little reflector disc so that you can bounce light into areas that are too shadowy in your shot. You can also just do this with a regular ol' white foamcore board.

If you can afford it, other than the case sucking - this would work great. Gives you options for silver, white, gold, black or shoot through white. I have had mine for a couple years, the case/bag sucks, but it works great.

http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-Inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398661374&sr=8-1&keywords=reflector

I have 2 pieces of advice that most new photographers tend to ignore (they usually worry too much about camera gear instead.)

1. Have a vision/idea of what you're shooting.
   
   Your friend has a clothing brand and you should think of how it should be portrayed. If its streetwear, then shoot in urban situations. if its bikinis, then the beach is perfect, etc. Once you have an idea of how you want to portray the clothes, think of which lighting situations would match it, such as hard lighting for a more dramatic look, or sunset for the golden hour look. Most of the time, the client will know what they want. Ask your friend to make a mood board, which is basically a collection of photos of how he wants the lookbook to look like.
   
   
2. Prep for your shoot.
   
   Get things ready before the shoot (this can be weeks to days, to hours before the shoot depending how much work needs to be done). This includes location scouting, weather prepping, lighting testing, equipment packing, hair and make up, posing references, props, etc. Have EVERYTHING ready almost to the point that you can start shooting right away once you get to the studio/location. If you are shooting in a studio, have the lights, backdrop, props, anything else you need, be ready. Don't waste time you could be shooting the model/product when everyone is ready but you aren't. If you are shooting on location, be prepared for the weather. Bring a 5-in-1 reflector if you want to have options on controlling light, such as a scrim/shade/silver/gold reflector. I can't get into any more details since every shooting situation is different which requires different tools, if you do know what situation you will be in and what you're going to shoot, then I might be able to tell you what you need.
   
   
   TL;DR
   
   DO NOT SHOOT BLINDLY. Prep everything and plan for the shoot. If you know what to shoot and how to shoot it, you will have a much better and easier time getting the shots you need. And it will show in the end product.

Hey, I'll try and answer as best I can, but others may have better or more accurate descriptions than me.

1. Many people will argue about this one, and I don't think there is really a right and wrong answer. You can make a great looking movie on an Iphone if you know what you are doing.
   
   But as for what makes a camera better? I would say control. The more functions you can control on a camera, the better. This is why DSLR filmmaking is so popular currently, because they have access to functions that many cameras don't have. Focus, Aperture, White Balance, Lens choices, etc. Being able to access all of these gives you more options as a filmmaker, which is what we all want, creative freedom, we all hate when we are limited by technology.
   
   Now many people talk about shooting Film vs Digital, or whether or not you are recording in RAW format for digital. A lot of this has to do with preference vs quality of camera.
   
   So I would say that a camera that is easy to control is the best. Hopefully I mostly answered that, if you want a more specific answer, just let me know and I'll try my best, otherwise hopefully someone else jumps back in here and describes it better.
   
   
2. This one is again up for debate. Here is what I think would be best. Get a camera first. Like many independent filmmakers, a DSLR might be the best option, I found a camera from Panasonic called the AG AF-100 that to me has been an amazing camera, and a few steps above the DSLR without costing that much more. But Canon and it's DSLR lineup is great! Grab a couple decent lenses with that too.
   
   I would recommend a small light kit, you can spend as much as you want on film lights, but don't feel ashamed to buy a few lights from Lowes or Home Depot. Lighting is a very important piece to making movies. I would also look into getting some reflectors, there are some really cheap ones on Amazon. I have found these to be helpful when shooting outdoors, since lower end lights are almost unnoticeable in the sun.
   
   Here is the one that many early filmmakers ignore, Audio. Grab a nice microphone and get some good sound with your video. The Rode NTG 2 is a pretty good mike. It's cheaper while still getting good sound. The ME 66 is a bit more expensive, but it's a hotter mike and gets better sound. Both are really good options. To go with your mike, if you have a little extra spending money, I would completely advise getting a Blimp. This Rode Blimp is great! If you want to shoot outdoors in the wind at all, this is the best option, otherwise you may have to re-record all the voice over in post.
   
   ~
   
   This post is getting a little long here, so I'll throw a summary at the end with a couple more items.
   
   Camera: Get a Camera, Lenses, Case, Tripod.
   
   Lighting: Get a couple Lamps, Reflectors, Filters, Light Stands.
   
   Audio: Get a Microphone, Boom, Blimp, XLR Cable, Recording Device, Headphones.
   
   There is always more, but these would be a good starting point. Not everything I recommended is needed to get started though.

I carry this 5 in 1 deflector / diffuser thing. Its definitely useful.

I often hold it myself with 1 hand or have the model hold it. As a diffuser its a bit more difficult but I sometimes use that as a diffuser for my flash. Good thing to have in your kit and it's relatively light and costs almost nothinf. It sits in the front pocket of my camera backpack.

I would ask for gift cards, i.e. Amazon and B&H, or money. You can save these up and get nicer equipment or build your own rigs. But a nice Tripod can make a huge difference. But honestly, it all depends on what you film. Such as me, I often shoot on locations so lenses with a faster aperture do more than a set of studio lights. Here are my recommendations for basic stuff to ask for Christmas:

CN-160 LEDs - about $30 (http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/) and of course some NP-F970 Batteries go along well for about another $22 (http://www.amazon.com/Halcyon-Replacement-NEX-EA50UH-DCR-VX2100-HDR-FX1000/dp/B008X9L6ZS/)

Extra batteries - The off-brand batteries work well. I have two and they are great

Extra Memory Cards - I highly reccommend Lexar as my SanDisks don't work insanely well anymore.

Stabilizer Rigs - The Mantis Rig Is A Great Rig for everything (especially starting) and is only $33 (http://www.amazon.com/Mantis-Folding-Rig-Fotodiox-Transformable/dp/B00AUKBV7G) Or if you want to get a glidecam-style I suggest the Laing P-4S stabilizer which is like $275 and includes a bag and weights (http://www.amazon.com/Quick-Release-Plate-Laing-Stabilizer/dp/B00G3TCYQK/)

And My Best Piece of Lighting Equipment - A Reflector which you can get for like $20. (http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-Inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW/) There's plenty of different sizes, too.

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ZIMEMW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mSc4CbNSK5KMC

If you have a tripod you can then use it to reflect the light right onto your subject so you can have the light source behind them but still have them lit well!

Seems like a decent kit, a tad expensive maybe for what you actually get though, but I'd invest in some grippage either way so you can shape the light. While softboxes do provide nice large, soft sources, they result in a lot of spill. Maybe get a couple sets of these and rig them with these if you can with extra stands. If you can get your hands on some duvetyne and blackwrap you could also probably make some DIY solid flags and barn doors. Basically, to make it look good, you'll want to sculpt the light, not just turn them on and point them in the right direction.

If you do end up using that kit, also be weary of using the provided fluorescent globes as they'll probably have a green shift to them. Easy to correct this if they're your only light source with a FLT filter for your lens but if you're going to be competing with daylight you should have some minus/plus green gel on hand to match them. As far as I know, those kinds of fluorescent globes can't be dimmed (if they are they start flickering) so if you want to be able to control the light output that way you should use incandescent (if you can find any) or halogen globes, some hand squeezers (dimmers) and some CTB/CTO gel in various strengths.

Zoom isnt a bad investment, but you might be right. Honestly, don't go gear nuts. Even with the advice i gave above which i think is a way to spend two grand thats not what id do. Id use what I already owned and find some other people and beg borrow and steal as much as i could. Spend that 2 grand on a actual movie, and try and put every dollar on the screen.

I totally get the concept of wanting to have gear for multiple shoots. But I think you will learn a lot from just jumping right in. Shoot a short for 50 bucks with your friends over a weekend. then shoot another for a hundred bucks, and build on that. After that use all you learned with the rest of the dough to make something longer. I know it sounds crazy, but you can do it if you budget and write the script around things you already own and have access to.

More than anything a project you believe in will last longer than any piece of gear.

But if you are dying to buy something start with some simple paper lanterns mixed with a reflector you can get some good looking stuff, great soft light, and you learn some basic lighting skills. You will still need a few stands. But you can get away with a lot with these because they are light. Use practical lamps and natural light to fill out your scenes.

http://www.amazon.com/Hanging-Lantern-Cord-Off-Switch/dp/B007RPRYF0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1452219709&sr=8-2&keywords=china+balls

http://www.amazon.com/White-Chinese-Japanese-Lantern-Diameter/dp/B0026XVQ3Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452219709&sr=8-1&keywords=china+balls

http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452219787&sr=8-1&keywords=reflector

Canon user here.

It seems you know exactly what you want to do and a $1,000 budget is a great start. I would look into getting a crop sensor camera, they're much cheaper than full frame cameras, granted you'll need to take a few steps back to compensate for the crop factor. You can learn more about the differences between crop sensor and full frame cameras here.

A big difference between crop vs full frame is the price point. A crop sensor is going to cost you around $300-600 depending on whether you buy new or used. A full frame will set you back around $800-$1000. You can actually pick up a 5DMK2 (body only) for around $500-650 on Craigslist nowadays. I bought mine for about $1000 3 years ago and it's price has significantly reduced since, but you may end up getting one with a higher shutter count.
'
I would recommend looking into Canon's line of EOS Rebel cameras such as the Canon T4i or the Canon T5i. They will run you anywhere between $300-400 for the body alone. Great starter cameras for anyone looking to learn photography. I started off with the T3i and had it for about 4 years before upgrading.

You're also going to want to save money for lenses. Since you're looking to landscapes, star trails, etc.. This makes your search a lot easier. You are definitely going to need a wide angle lens. Something like the Canon EF-S 10-18mm or along those lines. Lenses can be very expensive and with just a budget of $1000, it's going to be difficult to get one that matches your every need. I would recommend do some research to find a lens that best fits your need.

That's the Canon EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM Lens. $299 on Amazon.com

It's supposedly the only lens he ever uses for every one of his vlogs.

I'd get the Canon 10-18mm with IS for similar money. It goes wider, it'll autofocus and it has IS. Plus it's a little lighter - I think it's a better match for your camera. http://www.amazon.com/Canon-EF-S-10-18mm-4-5-5-6-Lens/dp/B00K899B9Y/ref=sr_1_1?

I preface by saying I know almost nothing about photography.

My gf has a Canon Rebel T2i and recently we went on vacation to Iceland where she commented she wasn't taking the best pictures because she only had a kit lens.

I wanted to get her something around the $300-400. What would be the best bang for my buck? She likes doing wildlife and landscape photography.

I see these two lenses, are both of them together a good deal?

Zoom lens

Landscape Lens


Is there another lens in that price range that would be better than both of these combined?
Also, is it worth it getting a lens for a T2i, she was commenting that it was a beginner camera.

I would buy 7DII over a 6D in a heartbeat hands down more versatile. But I encourage you to buy an older camera since you're just starting out the

BUY THIS 7D with a low shutter count only $600. Still a hell of a camera to start with, lenses are more important.

Canon 10-18mm lens $300

Canon 50mm f/1.8 $120

Canon 70-300mm f/4-5.6 $650 OR buy a 70-200mm f/4 IS L lens USED off FredMiranda, or buy a 70-200mm f/2.8L IS mkI L USED off FredMiranda I got my f/2.8L mkI for $1,300 last year the MKII goes for $1,900 or so used but wasn't worth the $600 for me.

Card reader $18

Then get some Sandisk 16gb or 32gb cards

___
Other stuff to think about:

Canon 85mm f/1.8 $360

$130 Flash

Tripod $200

Canon 50mm f/1.4

---
Big purchases way down the road

Canon 70-200mm f/2.8 IS mkII L $2,200

A 300mm f/2.8 or even f/4 wouldn't be a bad thing to shoot for either if you really want to do wildlife but not spend over $6,000 on a lens

Canon 1.4 teleconverter $500 this only works with L lenses buy this way down the road if you need more reach.

Canon 16-35mm or 17-40mm L lens

Thanks for the response. 90% of the photographs will be for the website, but there is a trade magazine doing an article on us in the near term. Basically, I need high quality images similar to what we have on our site: http://www.nativeoak.com. It will be a mix of wider shots of the cabinets in the room with the occasional closeup shot of particular cabinets.

I would prefer to shoot with a tripod and no flash, as that seems more in line with my experience level, has a quicker setup time, and makes nice images.

I'm thinking about getting the Canon EF-S 10-18mm

This one? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NI3BZ5K/ref=psdc_173565_t1_B00894YP00#customerReviews

Hmm, we'll I'd buy the 24mm lens new, which is $130, then get the best Rebel kit you can afford, which would be the T6i it sounds like. The kit would come with a basic zoom lens as well. Consider buying an even cheaper, older Rebel used (such as T3i) if you're not sure about photography as a hobby. Also consider the Rebel SL1 for it's tiny size with the 24mm attached.

I really enjoy this lens on my t3i: https://www.amazon.ca/Canon-EF-S-24mm-2-8-Lens/dp/B00NI3BZ5K/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536535825&sr=1-1&keywords=efs+24mm

Okay, here is a better list, sorry for the mess:

Flash -- around $65.

Transmitter --around $35

Light stand + umbrella + flash bracket // around $30. I got this one used for $20 on Amazon. There are different ones and with different quality.

Canon 24mm f/2.8 -- around $150

Canon 50mm f/1.8 -- around $110.

Also, Yongnuo makes their version of the 50mm ($50), the 35mm ($88) and some others. I can only vouch for the 50mm, I either got a great copy or it is just great.

Step back! Generally lenses are made with the same equivalent field of view for different sensor sizes (for instance, m43 is a 2x crop factor, and we have 17mm, 25mm, 40mm lenses instead of 35mm, 50mm, 80mm); the only time you should be running into field of view issues that using a more appropriate lens won't help with are when you get into super-wide angle. And if you're looking at doing portraits, you should be far away from that territory, since wide angle lenses will produce unflattering photos.

Since you're on an APS-C sensor, your 50mm lens will be more equivalent to an 85mm lens on a full frame, which is a pretty good focal length for portraits. If you want more environmental portraits, you might try something like the 24mm f2.8 (some photos on flickr here and here).

This could be a good pick. Wide enough for landscapes and group shots. Light, cheap, and sharp too. Only it doesn't have IS which could be a deal breaker if you're doing filming.

Check out the Canon EF-S 24mm f2.8 STM. It's only $175, sharp, has STM (which means quiet focusing for video purposes), and it's a convenient focal length for video.

50mm f/1.8

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00007E7JU


I really love this lens. It takes fantastically sharp pictures and has a wonderfully shallow DOF. You have to be rather far away though to capture entire cars within the frame so it can be a pain in the ass for shooting car meets or shows where lots of people are present and cars are packed in close together. For situations like that, I'd recommend this:

24mm f/2.8

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NI3BZ5K/ref=pd_aw_sbs_p_1?refRID=0RNG9BBEGCABCCW5VK5G

Do you already have a cellphone and a spotting scope?

The telescope eyepiece was designed to focus on an eyeball. The eyeball is actually quite inferior to the smart phone camera (CMOS sensor). With HDR, the stacking is done with hardware. There are a whole bunch of telescope eyepiece adapters, usually less than $20.
https://www.amazon.com/Gosky-Universal-Phone-Adapter-Mount/dp/B013D2ULO6/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_421_bs_tr_t_1/133-8554002-5688201?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Z8XCB6EE0BNZNFA6EC6J

The other nice feature of a smart phone camera is it can be controlled over Bluetooth from a laptop in the nice warm car with hot coffee.

No need to be fancy: https://www.amazon.com/Gosky-Universal-Phone-Adapter-Mount/dp/B013D2ULO6

https://www.amazon.com/Gosky-Universal-Phone-Adapter-Mount/dp/B013D2ULO6

I bought this mount about a month ago. So far it has worked pretty well. I took a picture of the moon about a week ago using that mount with my LG V20 attached to my telescope. You will want to use a bluetooth remote camera shutter as well.

Thank you very much! I use this: https://www.amazon.ca/Gosky-Universal-Phone-Adapter-Mount/dp/B013D2ULO6

It looks good. Of course, it won't be as good as attaching a dslr or a dedicated planetary camera, but it does really well considering its only 20 dollars.

Have a look at one of these. I have two different kinds, im liking this one best so far. The other one I have was the first Carson Universal phone mount.
Gosky Universal Cell Phone... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013D2ULO6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

If you have any questions about it, let me know.

There are cheapo mounts that will clamp down onto the eyepiece and then clamp onto your phone, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Gosky-Universal-Phone-Adapter-Mount/dp/B013D2ULO6/

You will have to line up the camera with the eyepiece first though, which can be a tad difficult in the dark.

These are great.

Something like this will let you take pics of the moon

https://www.amazon.com/Gosky-Universal-Phone-Adapter-Mount/dp/B013D2ULO6/ref=sr_1_3/133-6757998-2915363?ie=UTF8&qid=1527358550&sr=8-3&keywords=phone+to+telescope+adapter

For anything else sorry to say but you’d need a different scope

This cheap one on Amazon.

I use this one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013D2ULO6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478576632&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=gosky+universal+cell+phone+adapter+mount&dpPl=1&dpID=41Syg5BOS4L&ref=plSrch

It's okay, it can be a bitch to line up the camera with the eyepiece in the dark. It will probably make your scope heavy on one end so if you can adjust the scope so it doesn't drift all the time it will help.

My scope just has a twist helical focuser which tends to be kinda loose (it's just a threaded tube that goes up or down basically) when you have to crank the focus so that can wobble a little bit too but that's mostly an issue with my scope.

https://www.amazon.com/Amcrest-IP2M-841-1920TVL-Security-Camera/dp/B0145OQTPG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468434745&sr=8-3&keywords=wireless+camera

I don't have it saving pure video though. I have it taking a snapshot every 10 seconds.

I pull the data off the card once a month or so and keep it for a bit, then delete it.

When the incident happened, I pulled it right then and was able to burn the stills to a CD for the deputy that responded in about 5 minutes.

I have others on the house too but they are all static. This is the only one I have that pans around. I just have a setting on it that points it at the door. The others are static ones, made by Dlink, and they don't even make them anymore. I've had them for years.

I don't think its weatherproof, but I have it mounted well under an eve-it won't get wet there beyond more humidity.

Considering the light (then lack of it, the idiot decided about halfway through the break in to unscrew the porch light) the pictures came out pretty well.

I have since went to harbor freight and bought a solar security light. It stays dim till it detects motion, then goes bright. its way up high like the camera, and if you go to disable it, you're going to be facing the camera directly. But if someone decides to disable the porch light again, they will still be lit up.

I put up a much better security door, and have the other two doors in the backyard (behind a fence) getting changed out to the better one today. If someone decides to try again, its going to be a lot more difficult for them. The deputy thinks it was random, and I'm beginning to agree. I have everything well lit outside but the house is usually dark unless I'm up. I used to keep a vehicle outside when I had 3, but I since have sold it and the other two are in the garage. I'm guessing they cased it before I sold the vehicle. Seeing it gone, they figured I wasn't home.

We bought this a couple of months ago and absolutely love it:
http://www.amazon.com/Amcrest-IP2M-841-1920TVL-Security-Camera/dp/B0145OQTPG

We got a webcam rather than a 'baby monitor'. It works from anywhere on both iPhone and Android and it gets regular security patches. We got a cheap audio-only monitor for when we were around the house. When we heard baby start fussing we could pull up the app to see what was happening.

$58.

Everything you’re looking for.

You don't specify what or where you are trying to monitor (indoor, outdoor, in the rain, available power). But there are plenty of cameras that do what you do ask for.

If the camera follows the ONVIF standard, it can be captured by one of many IPCamera Apps that can pick up the stream. If you are in the Androidverse, I recommend this. I am sure there are similar Apple products. I have this app running on my Nvidia Shield, and if I'm watching the boobtoob, a couple button presses, and all 8 of my cameras are displayed on my TV.


Here are a few ONVIF cameras (just as an example).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0145OQTPG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_Ro1DzbPHDFZFE

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0SN42N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_mp1Dzb7PCXTSB

My wife and I went the IP camera route. It's basically a security cam that hooks up to your wifi and you can access it through an app on your phone. The image quality is much better. Amazon link

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0145OQTPG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_-dGYDb89RVMMR

Works well enough.

Unfortunately I can't give you a specific product, but what might work for you is an IP camera. Do a quick search on Amazon and see if that's what you're looking for. Something like this seems to have most of the features you mentioned.

Think I found my answer here!

https://www.amazon.com/Amcrest-IP2M-841-1920TVL-Wireless-Camera/dp/B0145OQTPG

Thanks!

I bought a house in March and had the intention of going all in on HA, but so far it hasn't exactly panned out. budgeting for a few good products as i go.

BUT, Here is what i started with so far. I've settled with silo'ed stuff so far. This is what i've done, others will probably have stronger recommendations though.

1. a good wifi router.
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z0V2NQ8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
   
2. Power meter
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XOZG0Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
   
3. thermostat
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FLZEQH2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
   
4. 4x wifi cameras
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0145OQTPG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
   
5. entertainment http://www.amazon.com/Sony-STR-DN1050-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B00JC31SEI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1452667821&sr=1-1&keywords=str+dn1050
   
   Yes, that's 5 separate apps on my own Note 4
   
   Next on the list is a zwave hub and garage door controller.
   
   

Amcrest ProHD 1080P WiFi Wireless IP Security Camera - 1080P (1920TVL), IP2M-841 (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0145OQTPG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_5mCLwb88J7KNV

I bought this a few weeks ago and it is absolutely great.

I'd suggest going for the 1080p ones, which are on sale for only 10 dollars more here with code "4S9MPCX8". Got an email from them yesterday about it.

Thanks for the advice. I currently shoot with my G7 and have the kit lens that comes with it, the 25mm F1.7, and the 45-150mm F4.0. I think it's a nice combo that covers all my bases. Upgrading to a GH5 or 5s would financially make the most sense for me. But if I make shit tons of YouTube money and upgrade to Full Frame, I'll let you know :)

This is great because it's so cheap. Basically gives a "normal" field of view, but the wider aperture can give you both a shallow depth of field and it'll let you shoot faster shutter speeds/lower ISOs in lower light. https://www.amazon.com/PANASONIC-LUMIX-MIRRORLESS-THIRDS-H-H025K/dp/B014RD6RC0

​

The 42.5 is a bit smaller physically, but is more a portrait lens, allowing you to have your model a bit further away for head shots at similar apertures to the 25mm, but with more in focus of the model compared to the background. It is more than double the price of the 25mm.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H36U69Y/ref=psdc_7161083011_t4_B014RD6RC0

​

I rented the 42.5 at the same time as the 14-140, and while I loved it, the 14-140 seemed more useful to me at the time because I already had the 25mm, but I will probably get the 42.5 at some point.

So with a $250 budget that gives us 2 or 3 options for lenses. As I mentioned before, I think the Panasonic 25mm f1.7 is your best bet. It's a good focal length (It shoots like a 50mm on a full frame camera) and is a really good price for what you get. As someone said else where in this thread, framing is what really matters in these scenarios, so any lens really will do the job for these scenarios. If you want a zoom lens though the two options that sit inside of your price range are Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 which is a pancake version of the kit lens that comes with the camera usually. This will keep your rig super small yet super versatile as well. Finally, if you have it, I would just use the kit lens. If you don't have it here is a link for it. It should do everything you need and is sharp enough for most people who would be using a G7. If you have any questions feel free to ask!

I've been shooting with a Panasonic Lumix G3 for the last few years and recently got myself the 25mm f1.7 lense because I love street photography. The pictures are turning out nicely but I really feel like getting a new camera around christmas. Does getting the GH5 make much sense? What recommendations do you have?

While I really love Canon (I borrow a 650D and the 50mm 1.8 from school all the time) and would love to change to DSLRs, I feel kinda bad "abandoning" a 250$ lense like that.

In case any Americans are going "damn, wish I had that deal," US Amazon has it available for $147 new: https://www.amazon.com/PANASONIC-LUMIX-MIRRORLESS-THIRDS-H-H025K/dp/B014RD6RC0?keywords=panasonic+25mm+1.7&qid=1539036733&sr=8-3&ref=sr_1_3

Requiem for a Dream!

It is truly a great film- amazing cinematography, haunting score, superb character development and connection. It definitely can be depressing, but I think the film's themes about loss, desperation, and unfulfilled dreams are just so poignant.

I really could go on and on and on about this film- and I actually have in other contests that ask about favorite movies, hehe. But I won't bore you this time! ;)

Seriously though, if you haven't seen this movie yet. Watch it. Watch it right now! =D

Here's my $5 item: some China Glaze nail polish

And here's my $20 item: These awesome reflectors! I'm a newbie photographer, and these reflectors would help me out so much with the work I'm trying to become skilled at. =D

Thank you so much for hosting this contest, by the way! As amazing as it would be to gift a $20 item to someone, I feel like it's really fun to spread the wealth! My vote is for four $5 gifts! Thanks again! =)

Go out a day or two beforehand (or even a couple hours before the shoot) and take some test shots on a stand-in subject. Find your exposure and write down your settings, position, etc. This way they're working on YOUR schedule and you can concentrate on a nice pose instead of the exposure.

I agree, shoot in aperture priority.

If you have shade (tree or a big translucent disk) and another reflector you'll be golden. Otherwise, maybe a dialed down flash could help fill in shadows.

Terrible translation on my part but I think the proper English term is reflector. Something like this.

It's great for the following (and I quote from their site):

1 Translucent surface for softening

2 Silver for the contrast you look for

3 Gold for warm tone and health

4 White to fill the shadow

5 Black to block out stray light

It's probably one of the most versatile products you can buy for such little money. Translucent is great for days with hard edged shadows. Gold gives you sunshine. Black can create shadows when there are none. (removing light is also shaping light)

Can do nothing but recommend it to you

Thoughts on Rokinon FE14M-C 14mm F2.8 Ultra Wide Lens for astro & landscape photography?

I have a Canon t3 with the kit lens and I'm looking at getting another lens that would be better suited for astrophotography and landscape photography when I go camping / hiking. I was searching around for a budget lens and came across this one. Does anyone have it / use it for the intended purposes mentioned above? Is it a good bang for the buck? Other suggestions are welcome.

https://www.amazon.com/Rokinon-FE14M-C-Ultra-Canon-Black/dp/B003VSGQPG

This is the EF-mount one that I recommend for your focal reducer: https://www.amazon.com/Rokinon-FE14M-C-Ultra-Canon-Black/dp/B003VSGQPG

The Rokinon 14mm 2.8 is $300 and works pretty well. Since it's fast and manual you can control everything really well while still letting in a decent amount of light. However it's pretty heavy and 100% manual, so you probably won't use it for anything that you don't have time to shoot.

Otherwise, the Canon 10-18mm is nice and wide, especially for $300 also. It has IS and focuses really quickly. On the flipside it's really, really slow and doesn't have a focus distance scale marked on it.

If you can swing it, don't overlook the 550d. It does very well as at widefield shots, DSOs, and has the added benefit of Movie Crop Mode which you can use for planetary imaging. The 18-55-IS lens is a nice little lens, and despite being a little slow, it's definitely enough to get you going.

The cool part is, if you end up upgrading your mount and getting a scope, it's versatile enough to where you don't need another camera to learn the basics of a different type of AP.

It also does HD movies and is a nice daytime cam.

There are a lot of lenses worth buying. The 50mm 1.8 is cheap, fast, and tack-sharp. I'd definitely recommend that one. All the other lenses I want are pretty expensive. For widefield/milky way shots, a lot of people seem to be using the Rokinon 14mm which seems like a lot of lens for the money. Haven't tried it out personally, but it gets good reviews.

I can try to tell you off the top of my head. The originals are at home on my laptop. Edited using Adobe Lightroom.

T3i in manual mode
Rokinon 14mm

ISO 100
F5.6, might have even been F8
1/400"

The sun was behind the trees around 3:30 in the afternoon, so I positioned myself where the top of the main part of the tree was blocking the sun.

There are some ~ $500 options that might be good for a photographer that already has a camera.

You can do /r/landscapeastro with a basic tripod and a wide angle lens. The Rokinon 14mm and the Rokinon 24mm are great lenses for Milky Way (widefield) astrophotography. With the camera locked down on a tripod you can do long exposures up to 30 seconds or so. You can shoot multiple exposures and stack them to reduce noise and bring out details. The lenses I linked to are fast and wide and have aspherical elements that makes them good for astrophotography.

The trick with shooting individual objects with a telephoto lens is that as the stars "move" across the sky during the night that motion is magnified in the viewfinder, so you have to shoot 1 or 2 second exposures so that the motion doesn't cause the stars to trail.

If you want to shoot with a telephoto lens you need a tracking mount. The motorized mount slowly moves the camera at the same rate as the sky, keeping the subject still in the viewfinder. This allows for longer exposures and better results.

There are some interesting low cost tracking mounts for cameras with lenses up to 300mm. I haven't used these (ended up getting a bigger mount) but I've seen some good results posted on the forums.

/r/astrophotography and /r/landscapeastro

SkyWatcher S20510 Star Adventurer Astro Package

Vixen Optics 35505 Polarie Star Tracker

iOptron SkyTracker Pro Camera Mount with Polar Scope, Mount Only

I was looking at this type of light duty tracking mount and what I didn't like is that you can't go "up" size-wise from there.

The next step up is a medium duty tracking mount like the

Celestron Advanced VX Mount

What I like about getting into a mount like this is that it can handle a decent size (and quality) telescope if you want to add that later. It uses the German Equatorial Mount (GEM) design that all top-of-the-line mounts use. So you're getting into a better class of mount that has tighter mechanical tolerances. You can use it with wide or telephoto lenses on your camera for now, and with a nice telescope later.

I recently bought a big ol' Atlas EQ-G tracking mount. It's $1500 new but I found a used one for $700. It didn't come with a tripod so I got a used Meade Field Tripod ($150) and an adapter plate ($120) so it was about $1,000 for that particular mount setup. I plan to use that with my Canon 400mm telephoto lens and expect to get decent pictures of Andromeda galaxy, Orion nebula and other deep sky objects (DSO). I need to tap some threads in the tripod and DIY a spreader and I'll be good to go. I guess my point is I got a heavy duty mount that will work with my existing gear and with a good sized telescope in the future. Worked for me, ymmv.

Check the classifieds at Cloudy Night forums for used equipment.

https://www.cloudynights.com/

Good luck!

Wait... what?!

Rokinon

Samyang

They are the same thing?! The Rokinon is much cheaper...

New lens buying advice for Nikon

I'm looking into buying a new lens to move beyond my kit lens from the Nikon D5300, my kit lens is 18-55, 3.6f.

I need advise on what new lens I should get... I do lots of night photography, long exposures and whatnot. I'd love to have something with a wide angle and large aperture size. Preferably keeping the price under $300. I dont mind a cheap feel or manual focus lens as long as the quality and functionality is great.

So far im considering the "Ultra Wide Angle" Rokinon 14mm 2.8f but I'd love something similar with a larger aperature but I havent found anything as of yet, any advise on what other lens I should look at?

Rokinon for those that are interested
http://www.amazon.com/Rokinon-FE14M-C-Ultra-Canon-Black/dp/B003VSGQPG

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003VSGQPG?cache=100bccda347ddf630eacf46b0eb77331&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1405376104&sr=8-4#ref=mp_s_a_1_4

What about that? You could snag a 2.8f for that budget easily enough, but another $50-100 more and you could get the lens you want.

Umm, I'm sure there are, but I'm not aware of any. I think I just googled some articles on how to do it. I already had the camera with a wide angle lens. I think the main thing you need to consider are:

• Get a camera with a wide angle lens and a tripod. I have a Cannon T3i with this lens: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VSGQPG/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• The wide angle lens is really important, but the camera body just needs a couple things:
  

1. It should be able to take RAW format pictures so that you can get the most out of your editing.
   
2. It should have the feature of either setting up a remote so that you can take the picture without touching the camera, or have a delayed picture setting that will let you take the pictures a couple seconds after pushing the button (this will prevent you from shaking the camera when you go to take the picture).
   
   

• One of the hard lessons I learned early on is that auto focus doesn't really work for these shots because they are at night, so you need to take a photo during the day to figure out where the lens focusing so that you can put it on that same setting at night. I wasted a whole night because I was trying so hard to figure out the focus.
  
  
• Time of the month and location are pretty important. You want to shoot in a place with low light pollution away from the city, and you want to time your shoot based off of the moon cycles. Pick a night with no moon because the light from the moon will ruin your pictures. Here is a chart of this month: http://www.calendar-12.com/moon_calendar/2016/june
  As you can see, the best time to take a picture this month would have been on the 4th or 5th. 1-2% moon light on both nights.
  
• Once you get all that stuff picked out, just start playing around with long exposures from 15-30 seconds. ISO (film speed at 1500-3000).
  
  There are tons of people that are probably better at it than me out there on the internet, but I thought I'd share my experiences (especially some of my mistakes) to help you out. If you end up getting some good shots, I'd love to see them. Let me know if you have any more questions and I'd be happy to answer them for you.
  
  -Phil

http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-TT560-Speedlite-Panasonic-single-contact/dp/B004LEAYXY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398216147&sr=8-1&keywords=neewer+flash

if you want to go the cheap manual route:
get these remote speedlite triggers
you can buy more of the receivers, just set them all to the same code.
get one of these for every receiver you have, or any flash set to manual
and get as many stands as you need for each speedlite/receiver combo. the sky is the limit.
also you'll need a crap ton of double and triple a batteries.

I love these things.

What's the point of taking photographs that suck? Tricks and techniques that require a DSLR are mostly just tricks and they won't make a fundamentally bad photo any good. Shallow depth of field, or creative control of shutter speed won't fix a fundamentally poor composition. First get good.

You can get very good with just a phone. Lots of people spend big bucks on expensive cameras thinking it will let them take great pictures. It turns out you can take bad photos with any camera, and you can take great photos with just a phone. If I were in a photography club with only a phone camera, I would want to learn to take better pictures with it than my uncle/mom/friend/etc can take with their big expensive DSLRs. It's fun to win, especially when you're an underdog.

Anybody who is excels at anything, photography or otherwise, has mastered the fundamentals. There are no exceptions. Fortunately, you don't need fancy equipment to learn some of the more important fundamentals in photography: composition and lighting. It's a rare photo that is good, but lacking in one of those areas.

Composition is easy to learn and hard to master. Google around. Read about the rule of thirds, leading lines, and so on. Learn to do each one well. Take lots of different pictures using each techniques. Combine techniques. Then figure out when to break the rules, and thus learn why they are important. A phone will work just as well as a DSLR here. Your only real limitations are inability to control depth of field and inability to change your focal length, and those aren't so important. At least, it's easy to find situations where you don't need those particular tools.

Lighting is also important, but it seems to get less blog space than composition. You can learn all the important things about lighting with very little equipment. You also don't need to leave your boring classroom as long as you have people and stuff. Do portraits. Do well-lit product photography.

You can study lighting without flash. There's a lot you can do with just a window, or the sun and a wall, or a lamp you can move around. Dig up some scrap cardboard for a gobo. Cover it with white paper and you have a reflector. Cover it with tinfoil and you have a different kind of reflector. Rembrant didn't have a flash.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2nNxaBA6ss

On the other hand, if you have even a little money to spend, you could learn about off-camera flash, even with phone cameras. For $40-$60 on Amazon you can get a cheap but powerful hotshoe flash with an optical slave mode that you can probably trigger with a phone's LED flash. Hotshoe not required.

For example:

http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN-560-Speedlight-Flash-Nikon/dp/B0079M711S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416351709&sr=8-1&keywords=yn+560+ii

http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Speedlite-Panasonic-Fujifilm-single-contact/dp/B004LEAYXY/ref=sr_1_federatedaps0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416351691&sr=8-1&keywords=flash

Add a mirror or your reflectors from above and your one light source becomes two or three. Clothespin a plain white T-shirt or tape a white plastic garbage bag to a bent wire clothes hanger and you've got a diffuser that works like a white umbrella. Attach a black plastic garbage bag to the back and now you've got a softbox with more control over the backscatter, so it doesn't bounce around the room and light up parts of your subject that you don't want lit. Just be sure not to enclose the whole flash body so you get enough light to trigger the optical slave sensor.

Now you can do this: http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html

One of the problems with phone cameras is that you don't have much control over depth of field. While you can't really blur out distracting backgrounds, you can use lighting to de-epmhasize them. See, for example, the first photo in the Lighting 101 link above. Can your Aunt who keeps her DSLR in Auto mode do that?

Here is a fairly universal kit I would buy:

• http://mpex.com/lumopro-lp605-compact-7-5ft-stand-w-ground-spikes.html
  
• http://mpex.com/lumopro-lp633-compact-umbrella-swivel-w-variable-cold-shoe.html
  
• http://mpex.com/westcott-43-collapsible-umbrella-with-removable-cover-15-folded.html
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Speedlite-Panasonic-Fujifilm-single-contact/dp/B004LEAYXY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415811732&sr=8-1&keywords=tt560
  
• http://mpex.com/dot-line-15-male-to-male-pc-cord.html
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Pixel-TF-322-Adapter-Dedicated-Flashgun/dp/B004RZ9MGC/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1415812753&sr=1-1&keywords=nikon+canon+hot+shoe+sync+adapter
  
  It uses a sync cord. She can get radio sync or something else later and really grow this kit. Also point her to Strobist 101 to give her instructions and ideas.

I picked up 2 of these flashes and this wireless trigger, and this(or similar) set of reflective umbrellas and stands. All that stuff is pretty universal and should work on most cameras.

It's nothing fancy, but it's less than $200 for the whole setup and it gets great results. I use the same stuff for portrait work.

The Tokina lens looks great, but unfortunately it's designed for a crop sensor. I can put it on my full frame camera, but it's going to leave me with a big black circle around all of my pictures.

How do I mount a speedlite to my sony a200 which uses it's own proprietary mount?
I recently got into photography with a second hand sony a200, I want to buy a speedlite but I realized that the hotshoe isn't the same on my camera as the ones on most flashes. I realize I need some sort of an adapter to use them but is that all I need? I was thinking about getting these two, keep in mind I'm very new to photography and I don't want to invest far too much money so I don't want to buy a dedicated sony alpha compatible flash that I can't use later in my life.
The speedlite I want
The mount I want
Is there anything else I would need to use the speedlite? Also with this adapter will I be able to use it as a regular flash/speedlite?
Thanks!

Thanks for the feedback! Using a Shoe adaptor isn't ideal but 2 hss flashes that work together for around $200 that both have decent guide numbers seems like a good deal to me; the nissin i40 costs more than this ($250) and that's the cheapest "native" hss flash you can get for mirrorless Sony cameras.

Getting an ND filter costs about the same as the flash, with the adapter that costs $22, that's about the same as a cheap flash so it's a tie in terms of price.

Nice thing is if I ever end up getting a Sony branded flash (Sony HVL-F32M or better), the 3600hs will work as a wireless hss slave.

Looking into getting an external flash finally and here are the options I found on Amazon that don't break the bank...any recommendations on which one to go for? I'm still a beginner and wanna try some flash photography but also will be doing an indoor party shoot where lights will be dimmed down so will need a better flash than the built-in one on my Nikon D5300.

1.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LEAYXY/ref=psdc_3109929011_t2_B00H84WRK2

2. https://www.amazon.com/Altura-Photo-Professional-Flash-NIKON/dp/B00H84WRK2/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1505793035&sr=8-1&keywords=external+flash+for+nikon&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011%2Cp_72%3A2661618011%2Cp_n_condition-type%3A6461716011

3. https://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Professional-Speedlight-Flashlight-Olympus/dp/B00I44F5LS/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1505793779&sr=8-1&keywords=yongnuo%2Bexternal%2Bflash&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011%2Cp_72%3A2661618011&th=1

If you have not done lighting before, you should really practice first, and you should simply buy before renting. If you don't know how to use basic cheap equipment, you'll have even more problems trying to use higher end equipment.

I would buy instead of rent, it's about the same price and if you learn how to use it properly you'll get the same results. The reason pro equipment costs a lot is not because it makes your photos better, it's because it's more reliable, quick, etc. Lots of pros don't always use pro equipment.

Neewer TT560 - $40

Flash stand with umbrella - $33

43" reflector - $13

Total: 86

Stand the model in front of a white background, put the Flash and umbrella at a 45 degree angle from the subject, hold the reflector on the opposite site to use as a fill. Use photoshop to turn the background pure white.

If you want to go super budget, buy 3 canlights from home depot ($7 each), buy 3 150w equivalent dailight CFL bulbs ($13 each), and a piece of white foamcore board ($1) for a total of about $70 depending on the pricing close to you. Use one can light as a key, use the foamcore board as a fill, use a 2nd can light as a background light, and the third as a backlight for the subject. You will of course need something to clamp the lights on. If you are doing full body shots you can use a white shower curtain as a diffuser for the key canlight.

Here's a lighting tutorial that you can use to get some ideas too. This site has a lot of tutorials you can check out. Ignore the pro equipment, it can almost all be swapped with DIY or cheap equipment.

Did some research, here's I think my bargain basement lighting kit, and good reviews too.

• $50 Neewer flash with wireless trigger. a nice manual flash that comes with a wireless trigger. You put one trigger on the flash, and the other in your camera's flash shoe, and bam, radio triggered flash.
  
• Neewer stand/shoe/umbrella kit for $33. It comes with three umbrellas.
  
• Rechargeable batteries for your flash. I've had good luck with my Energizers, and they are cheap at $13 for a charger + 4 AA's. I'd buy two of them because the cheapest price on a 4 pack is $11, so why not spend the extra $2 for the charger to have a backup charger.
  
  There, you're good to go for wireless flash for ~$100, manual flash power, works with any camera that has a flash shoe.
  
  If you can only spend $50, then just get the flash separately for $30 and the batteries. Then you can get the radio triggers, light stand, and umbrellas later when you have the money to spare.
  
  Also, eventually, you may want to get a larger umbrella - I use an Impact 60" convertible umbrella. Big, beautiful, soft light. I have two of these; they have 4.5 stars on amazon, great umbrella. They are a little unwieldy though; 60" is a big umbrella to deal with.

I am a huge fan of the Neewer TT560 - it is incredibly affordable and you can buy two of them and a Cowboy Studio remote trigger set for under $100. While you're learning about strobes I don't believe there is any reason to get anything fancier.

I don't think it's worthwhile to invest hundreds of dollars in higher end equipment until you can prove to yourself that you need it. Strobes are one of those areas where photographers often overspend by a huge margin.

I don't have a whole lot of experience with the built in flash as when I used it I didn't have much luck with it. It isn't very powerful but I have seen youtube videos showing how you can use it some what effectively. If you are using the kit lens you can use it straight on but if you have a longer lens, such as a Sigma 16mm, the barrel of the lens is so long that it gets in the way of the flash make the built in flash unusable unless you point it upwards and bounce it off the ceiling or such (again i'll refer you to youtube for more research on that). If you are looking for a cheap alternative to the built in flash I highly recommend a cheap $30 flash off Amazon (maybe even cheaper with the Amazon Day deals going on right now) and a cheap LED light for photography for extra light. I personally have this flash (for $30.99) and this LED light (for $34.59).

​

There are a few scenarios in which I use these lights.

1. If I am indoors and there is some ambient light I will typically just use the flash on the a6000 which I then mount the a6000 on a tripod. It is great for group photos as I am still able to hit my focus, use a low ISO (typically 100), and not have to use f1.4 or f2. Typically your lens will be sharper around that F4-6 range in my experience.
   
   ​
   
   
2. If the room you are shooting in has no good natural light source or poor lighting and you want to use an ISO of 100 and etc I will use the LED light as my main light source. I find a constant light source gives my camera the ability to find the proper focus as the a6000 seems to have trouble finding focus when it is very dark. So if your camera can't hit the proper focus a flash won't really help all that much. Nobody wants a well lit photo that is out of focus.
   
   ​
   
   
3. Then you can also use them in combo. You can use the LED light as a constant light source and flash if you wish.
   
   ​
   
   I will say if I am taking photos of animals or people I never use the LED light as the constant light source can be overwhelmingly bright on the eyes where as the flash is just a quick, well, flash of light. So shooting stills might be best to use an LED light of sorts in your scenario. Again this is my experience of a hobbyist photographer AND if you want to do it on a small budget, by no means am I a professional and I always recommend people to do their own research on how to use their camera properly as there is great videos and guides out there from known professionals.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004LEAYXY/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hi guys can anyone help me? I bought an external flash ( Neewer® TT560 ) for my sony a6000. I use it but it is not synced to the camera shooting, so my photos are black. What should I do?

I've been thinking of trying this little cheap one for shits and giggles http://amzn.com/B004LEAYXY

and Im thinking about http://amzn.com/B0031AQ302 for macro.

I have an older flash thats huge, but the cycle time is just TOO DAMN SLOW.

He has some great deals!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050R67U0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Cxt4AbEH1J0V6

Just sayin

MagicFiber Microfiber Cleaning Cloths, 6 PACK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050R67U0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q7hzDbD43J4NS

I ordered these a while back and they have been amazing, comes with a bunch. I use them for my sunglasses, my GearVR, phone and especially my Surface Pro 4. They clean so well looks like new every time I wipe down before use!

http://www.amazon.com/Pack-MagicFiber-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths/dp/B0050R67U0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

I don't see why any decent quality microfiber cloth wouldn't work.

Here's some cheap ones I found for my glasses.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050R67U0

NO.


Alcohol on plastic lenses is a bad move. Plus these are rough paper which will physically cause abrasions on the lenses over time even if the chemicals don't. Use microfiber cloths like this.

https://www.amazon.com/MagicFiber-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths-PACK/dp/B0050R67U0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1549519855&sr=8-4&keywords=lens+cloths

Get a microfiber cloth, don't use liquid and you're all set.

https://www.amazon.com/MagicFiber-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths-PACK/dp/B0050R67U0/ref=sr_1_9?crid=2CWGYZ1LDC4FK&keywords=microfiber+cleaning+cloth&qid=1558965840&s=gateway&sprefix=microfiber+%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-9

I suggest buying some cleaning cloths like these -https://www.amazon.com/Pack-MagicFiber-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths/dp/B0050R67U0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486176509&sr=8-1&keywords=fiber+cloth
They are the best for removing dust and finger prints from electronics and you can clean and reuse them.

Yep, I see that grid pattern of smudges on both tablets I play PAD on.

LPT: Buy a microfiber cloth to wipe your screen. It works better than alcohol or wet wipes to clean off the skin oil that gets left on the screen. Plus, it's safer since you don't expose your device to water or caustic cleaning solvents. Here's an example of microfiber cloth: https://www.amazon.com/Pack-MagicFiber-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths/dp/B0050R67U0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1488223830&sr=8-4&keywords=microfiber+cloth

There's cheaper ones at Walmart or similar stores, as you don't really need one that's labeled for computer screens (that's just marketing so they can sell you a piece that's 1/4 the size of a normal cleaning rag for 2x the price).

No, I bought a pack of https://www.amazon.com/MagicFiber-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths-PACK/dp/B0050R67U0/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1520111223&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=microfiber+cloth&psc=1 (I had used them in the past for cleaning glasses and they were fantastic). Unfortunately the black ink seems to be bleeding into the TPE.

Please invest in a couple of these and use with a spritz of rubbing alcohol on that trackpad and screen. please?

The Spray got in contact with the liquid crystals of your LCD and killed them.
What spray (contents?) did you use? For the next display:
Use a microfiber every now and then.

i use these from amazon

a good additional gift to whatever you choose is micro fiber cloths, nobody every thinks about how dusty 2 screens can get, here is a link to some i bought and like http://www.amazon.com/Pack-MagicFiber-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths/dp/B0050R67U0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376327289&sr=8-2&keywords=micro+fiber+cloth

After cutting away at the nub with a design knife I just sand with 1000 or 1200 grit and once the nub is gone I use Tamiya compounds and a microfiber cloth to buff out the sandpaper scratches.



Here is a link to their compounds:



http://www.tamiya.com/english/news/news0401/news5.htm



Here is some generic microfiber cloths:



http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050R67U0/






Found a tutorial


http://www.kenzbuilds.com/intermediate.php?p=restore_sanded_clear_parts#

This is what I usually have on me.

1. iPhone 6s with Spigen Tough Armor Case - Case Link
   
2. Gerber Edict - Link
   
3. Sennheiser Momentum Earbuds - Link
   
4. Olight S30R Baton III - Link
   
5. Pilot Metropolitan - Link
   
6. Expo Wet Erase Marker
   
7. Moleskine Pocket Notebook - Link
   
8. Radix One Slim Wallet - Link
   
9. MagicFiber Microfiber Cloth - Link
   
10. Cheap Portable Charger until I upgrade to an Anker Battery

I got one, and about a year later it went to shit. It was supposed to record till it's full, then start recording over the oldest stuff and just keep going, never stop recording. It turned on when the car turns on. Well a month or so ago it has a little message "SD Card Full" on it, so I try the settings, but when I try to delete anything on the card the Delete choice in the menu is greyed out. When I try Format in the menu, it's greyed out. As if the thing is programmed to do this after a certain amount of time.

So I went to reset the thing hoping that'll fix it. It reset... into Russian. I'm pretty sure it's a firmware planned obsolescence for some shitty Chinese built Russian electronics.

So basically, spring for a bit higher than 30 bucks when buying a Dashcam. And the best part is, for the year I had it, I never needed it. But as soon as I didn't have it recording anymore, I actually had an incident with two assholes in a Shelby Cobra try to run me off the road intentionally and try as hard as they could to get me to wreck. It wasn't a "they sped up a bit when I went to merge" thing, either. For two miles these guys are standing up in their convertible, pointing, laughing, throwing shit, swerving between all three lanes like maniacs, bumping into my car and nudging me, suddenly swerving to get me to swerve off the road, slowly pushing my car to the left to get me to run off the road, etc. Truly terrifying maniac type shit. And the fucking camera wasn't recording. I got none of it. So all I could do was call services and give them their licence plate... I'm so pissed I went for the cheap dashcam.

EDIT:
THIS is the piece of shit I went for, although when I got it, it was more expensive. Do NOT get this garbage. It will only fail you when you need it most.

They aren't that expensive. http://www.amazon.com/2-5-inch-Vehicle-Recorder-Dashboard-Camcorder/dp/B0053DDNW6/ref=pd_sim_sbs_p_15?ie=UTF8&refRID=0P3CS0FC5FK458TGN25G

It's the DVR-027, all over eBay. Be really careful and make sure to purchase from a highly rated seller - there are a lot of knockoffs. The real ones seem to be in the $60 range nowadays.

Do NOT buy the Amazon ones - they are $20 counterfeits with horrible video quality and you never know what you'll get. (I actually bought two of them a while back and received two different models in the same casing.)

I've actually got two real DVR-027s and two counterfeit ones - eventually I'll get around to putting up some example side by side videos to show the differences.

This cheapie!

http://www.amazon.com/CTS-2-5-Inch-Rotatable-Camcorder-Camera/dp/B0053DDNW6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

12 bucks

Sure, it looks like they are even cheaper now. $16.94 with 16GB flash card.
2.5-Inch HD Rotatable LED IR DVR Video Camcorder with Camera Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0053DDNW6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_sJOEwbKWEQJTG

Just buy a quality mount so it stays put. The one it comes with is a bit flimsy.

I understand. If you do go for a cheap camera this one is about the only option you have left.

It's mostly a lottery if you will get something "decent" that's somewhat reliable or something that where the video looks zoomed in and looks pretty bad. In terms of MicroSD, I found Transcend to be the cheapest sold by Amazon instead of being sold by another seller, which assures you it's not gonna be fake. Transcend is a great brand too.

Edit: I found a Kingston that's also sold by Amazon, although I vaguely remember those cheap models not being compatible with it, not sure.

I've bought two of these for each of my cars (one front, one rear). Can't go wrong for $20 a pop.

http://www.amazon.com/2-5-inch-Vehicle-Recorder-Dashboard-Camcorder/dp/B0053DDNW6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1349044948&sr=8-1&keywords=dash+cam

I've been using [this one] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0053DDNW6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) without issues since September. It is really cheap and isn't spectacular, but it gets the job done.

>GO BUY A DASH CAM. THIS IS THE ONE I HAVE AND ITS $21. Just needs an SD card. And an optional better mount. Mine is mounted behind my rearview mirror so you don't notice it and its hardwired in the same spot as my V1 so it automatically turns on with the car and starts recording.

If your don't wanna get a dslr and your just getting into Vlogging I would get a Sony RX100 - great camera, good price.

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-DSC-RX100-Sensor-Digital-Camera/dp/B00889ST2G

Check out Sara Dietchy's video below..its old but she talks about it and gives some good info. she's a pretty well known vlogger and she has been using it for a while (even tho i believe she recently switched)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6Rfton2P4E - starts talking about the camera around 8:30

Hope this helps!

1st Gen - Amazing Photos and Video. $340 Used / $500 New

2nd Gen - APV + MultiShoe + Wifi and PlayMemories. $480 Used / $650 New

3rd Gen - APV +WPM + EVF - MultiShoe. $730 Used / $800 New

Ok, if all you want out of your camera is for it to take nice pictures on a vacation, be less than 600 USD and be portble, your best bet is a high quality compact camera like the rx100 (note there are 3 successors to it for more money of course):

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-DSC-RX100-Sensor-Digital-Camera/dp/B00889ST2G

Will a point and shoot take good quality pictures? Yes. Point and shoots will fall behind DSLRs image quality in 2 situations: low light and printing large images. If you want to shoot in the dark or print poster sized images, you will need to look elsewhere (and probably spend a lot more than $600). However, since you say a smart phone takes nice enough pictures, you will probably enjoy the better image quality of a nice point and shoot, but not miss the ability to print posters.

Do point and shoots fit your budget? yes, I picked one of the most expensive ones as an example. A S100 is even cheaper and still a great camera.

Are point and shoots portable? Yes. They can often fit in your pocket without discomfort (depending on your pocket size of course). That is more than I can say about a M43 camera. They are smaller than a DSLR, but not so small you can carryone around easily without a bag.

Based on what I have read from you, I would bet a point and shoot would serve your needs better than a M43 camera. However, if you intend on making photography into a serious hobby (i.e. willing to poor more money into it over time for better lenses and bodies) and want to take pictures beyond vacation photos, then a M43 camera might be for you.

What you have to understand is that M43 cameras and DSLRs are meant to be paired with expensive lenses. Buying a DSLR or M43 camera and not buying nice lenses is a bit like building a nice house on a shitty foundation. In a few years your nice house will start to crumble and while you spend all your money keeping it standing your neighbohr who spent more on his foundation can spend his money on a new pool.


So, ask yourself what you want out of the camera. Do you just want it to take better pictures than an iPhone? Get a point and shoot. Do you want to make photography into a serious hobby? Get a M43 camera and some starting lenses.

Here are some good starting lenses:

http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/the-first-micro-four-third-lenses-you-should-buy/

Can you see yourself buying 2-3 of those lenses in the next year?

I've heard many good things about the Sony RX100. It is compact, but many people swear by it. It's powerful for both professional looking video and stills. One of the only downsides is that is kinda pricey. Here's a review.

Sony RX100.

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-DSC-RX100-Sensor-Digital-Camera/dp/B00889ST2G I think

Is your moon criteria because you want to be able to zoom really far or that you feel only decent cameras can do that? I ask because if you don't need a long reach you could put more money toward a better camera/lens that's shorter.

If you don't need long reach and want a small camera a used RX100 will give you great quality for stills and video for under $400. You mention travel so I think for walking around it's great. It's a fixed lens though so you can't get more out of it down the line.

If you're thinking of it more like an investment and you'll grow into it over time you'll probably want to go with an ILC (interchangeable lens camera). Mirrorless will be smaller DSLR will be bigger. Just know that you're buying into a whole ecosystem because because lenses aren't swapable between brands. There are adapters but generally you lose things like auto focus unless you pay big bucks for an adapter.

For DSLR a used Nikon D3300 or Canon T6 is under $400. For mirrorless a used Sony a5000. There's also the micro 4/3's mirrorless systems but someone else would have to chime in for recommendations as I have no experience w/ them.

I should note that all my specific recommendations don't have a ton of reach (can't get far subjects). But what you save on that gets you incredible quality if you take the time to learn. Also w/ the ILC cameras you could get a telephoto lens in the future. You could get a cheaper body and get a kit that has 2 lenses one of which is a telephoto - used Nikon D3100 Kit or used Canon T5 kit for right at $400. You have to swap lens to go long. If you really want that zoom for cheaper or smaller overall size probably look at choices in this article.

That said if you're going to stay on auto mode all the time my recommendations are probably not worth the price premium since you won't get the most out of it. Save some bucks and get a point and shoot that's easier to travel with and you're more likely to take out and use. I will say the quality gap between camera phones and point and shoots is pretty minimal these days. You probably need to spend $300-$400 for the significant jump in quality.

I'd suggest checking out a sony RX-100 (Mk 1, not 2 or 3): amazon link. You can check ebay for lower prices as well. It's a compact all-around camera that has both landscape and macro modes. However, its 'macro' mode is not as close up as more serious 'macro' cameras (macro == close up photography). Video example of what the Mk2 can do, all of which the Mk1 can do

I looked into cameras several years ago before we did some big vacations. I ended up getting a Sony Cybershot RX100. I love it. It can essentially be a point-and-shoot, or you can use it in manual mode if you want to step up your photography game. This camera went to Australia, Iceland, and Finland with us and we love the photos it took. If you want a step-up from your cell phone but don’t want to go as big/fancy as a DSLR, this one is a great compromise.

Edit: misread and saw you already have a regular camera. This one still does a good job with video! It might make sense to combine picture camera and video camera into one product, less to have to keep track of.

The Sony RX100 has a great reputation as a budget video camera, but it's a point & shoot so it might not make the best option depending on what you want to teach. I think you can get a couple of Canon 60Ds on your budget if you want to teach camera-work specifics.

Do you want to teach cinematography or storytelling? For camera specifics, you might want to shop for more sophisticated cameras than the RX100. If you want to teach storytelling techniques, then you don't need a 60D for video; just about any smartphone will do. Depending on the smartphone, a few 60Ds may be cheaper. :)

Don't know what your budget is, but a Sony RX100 and maybe a Ricoh GR would fit in your pocket.

At around $400USD I would say you have three options:
Sony RX100 MkI, a Go Pro or your phone.

The S7 has decent camera quality, and while the RX100 will be more durable, I would opt to save the money instead. Image quality from the RX100 might be a little better (you'll definitely have more control over the image).

The Go Pro could definitely work. Those things are built like tanks, my mate takes one hiking and records some nice time lapses and video. However, image quality is poor (probably worse than your phone) and the fisheye effect looks out of place for a hiking video.

IMO, save the money until you have enough to get the RX100 MkIII/IV which will be a noticeable upgrade from your phone.

Edit: Also, the S7 has expandable storage, throw a 32GB micro-SD card in there and that'll be you set for storage.

I have a Sony RX100 (first generation one), and love it. The pictures are great considering it isn't a DSLR or mirrorless camera, and it is fairly compact which makes it perfect for hiking and traveling.

Would this prove sufficient http://www.amazon.com/Sony-DSC-RX100-Sensor-Digital-Camera/dp/B00889ST2G/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2O9N2DE21TNNF&coliid=I2P5IOZX1TLXLC

You can do a shit ton with a point-and-shoot and an Ikelite (or proprietary) case with a diffuser card, without bankrupting yourself.

Completely off the cuff, here's one option, a Sony RX100

and Sony Case (40m)

For all up around ~$700USD that will do 99% of the shooting that people do.

It shoots RAW for processing (requisite IMO)

It shoots with all kinds of flash adjustment

It shoots with all kinds of controls for exposure and aperture

If you want to get super fancy, you can even add a tray and a cheap video light on an arm to reduce backscatter issues and shoot with the light and not the onboard flash.

Personally I am a fan of Ikelite cases though so I'd search out a point and shoot that can shoot RAW and has the flexibility of a DSLR, a matching Ikelite case, and a sea&sea strobe. That would be a super fancy option.

I sometimes dive with an older Canon point and shoot that only shoots JPG and uses a diffuser card on an Ikelite case for doing portraits of divers/dive buddy groups. It's real small and light and didn't cost me more than $300 used from a fellow diver who just didn't use it anymore.

I've gone away from DSLR completely and now use a CILC (a6000) in an Ikelite case with a sea&sea strobe when I want to pretend I know what I'm doing.

You don't have to kill yourself or your relationships to go intermediate.

If you are wanting to vlog on it and record yourself, I would really look at that a6400. I have an a6300 and it is a great b camera for me on my gimbal. I have used it in the past for vlogging but you are really shooting blind since you cant check to see you are in frame or in focus. If you are on a budget I get it. Another good budget sony vlogging camera is the RX100. Those run about $400 on Amazon https://amzn.to/2SHo23E Hopefully this helps!

Yes, a Sony RX100 mark 1 used. Those with seller "Amazon Warehouse" are backed by Amazon's guarantee, you have a return period and everything. "Very good" and "like new" are usually in almost perfect condition.

I have a gig taking photos of a restaurant and food next week. I have the Canon 700D with 18-55mm lens, and this flash (YongNuo YN-560 III Flashgun).

Is my gear enough to take usable photos for a website? I'm starting out so it doesn't have to be ultra pro quality but decent enough to show the items at their best.

Yognuo makes some incredible flashes for the price - fully compatible with Canon, Nikon, etc. This is a superb flash, and this is the accompanying trigger for Canon 450D. There's a receiver built into the 560, but I don't think you can buy just one trigger.

http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Professional-Speedlight-Flashlight-Olympus/dp/B00BXA7N6A

Get this and start practicing. Play with the power settings on the flash and the settings on your camera for a proper exposure. You're going to want to go with a low ISO and fast shutter speed if your trying to freeze an active child. By the way, I'm also a m43 user and I love the system. If you're not on mu-43.com already, jump over and browse the forums, lots of very knowledgeable folks over there discussing these same topics.

The Yongnuo flashes are very well rated, reliable flashes, but if you shoot Nikon, you'll get more flexibility out of the sb-600. Be aware, however, that the sb-600 lacks a flash sync port. If you wish to use radio triggers you'll need a hot shoe adapter or modify the flash to add a sync port. Check out the YN 560 III as well.

Yongnuo 560 IIIs are pretty cheap and are often suggested.

You can get a refurbished with the 55-200mm lens and the wifi adapter for $400. Just got that exact kit myself and love it. Get that, a extra battery (12 on amazon) a cleaning kit (10 on amazon) a few memory cards, a http://amzn.com/B00BXA7N6A for a speedlight and a http://amzn.com/B01E56NBH8 50mm prime lens to round out your 600 bucks

Are you sure you're in the right focusing mode? You'll want AF-C (Auto Focus-Continuous). As long as you're set to AF-C, your camera will do its best to track you and keep you in focus. One thing to keep in mind is that if you're using the onboard mic, AF-C is going to make your audio quality even worse than it already is. The microphone on your D3200 will pick up the sound of the focus motor on top of your voice. If you're really serious about video and sound quality for your vlogs, you're going to want a lavaliere mic or a shotgun mic to give you professional sounding audio. You just plug it into the mic port on your D3200 and the camera will use your external mic over its internal one. The D3200 will produce some great looking video, but without an external mic your audio may not be usable (and it'll really set your video apart from the rest quality wise).

Yeah I've yet to find a Mic that works. I thought the S7 was TRRS, but I guess it isn't.

I've got the Olympus ME-51S Stereo Microphone and it works on my iPhone using the Rode SC4 TRS>TRRS adapter, but not on my S7 Edge.

Edit: Have you tried the Rode smartLav maybe?

Would love to hear if anyone else has managed to make it work.

Tbh I only watched for 10 seconds. The lighting is bad and the low angle of the camera is weird and you gotta get a [microphone] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EO4A7L0/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I5WH8R51T7AZC&colid=UWLSND0N5YXK)

I’ve had good luck wirh Rode’s model:
Rode smartLav+ Omnidirectional Lavalier Microphone for iPhone and Smartphones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EO4A7L0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1AmACbKFKYVRH

I'm not sure that it does - although that's a really good idea!

If you want a really cheap and actually pretty good lav mic solution then try this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rode-Smartlav-Lavalier-Microphone-Smartphone/dp/B00EO4A7L0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1538829280&sr=8-2&keywords=rode+smartlav

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rode-Smartlav-Lavalier-Microphone-Smartphone/dp/B00EO4A7L0/ref=asc_df_B00EO4A7L0/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309952060520&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14750880571118021847&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9073557&hvtargid=pla-352077295439&psc=1&th=1&psc=1 Rode Lav mic like this one! Apart from my recent video, where I had it too close to my mouth like an idiot but that's a fault of my phone, it sounds good!

g7, because:

1. it shoots 4k if you every wanted to in the future
   
2. it's screen flips around fully. the a6000's screen does not, so filming yourself will be significantly easier with the g7.
   
   i would highly suggest against using the onboard mic for any sort of interview. grab yourself one of these on the cheap and use your iphone as the recorder
   https://www.amazon.com/Rode-smartLav-Lavalier-Microphone-Smartphones/dp/B00EO4A7L0
   
   

As I suspected, your VO mic is a condenser. Treat your room and see if you get better results. If not, I’d go with a cardioid microphone. I use a Behringer xm8500 which you can find on Amazon for $20-30 depending on who’s selling it and if it includes an XLR cable. I also use a dedicated USB audio interface vs having one built into the mic. I started out with the Behringer UM2 which ran about $60 on Amazon. I’ve since upgraded to a Focusrite Scarlet 2i2 because it has some nice features I was after since I’d gotten more into the podcast. It ran about $110 as I recall. Yes, you’ll have separate components, but you’ll get a better overall sound and it’ll let you mix and match with different microphones for different occasions without having to worry if the mic can plug into your computer directly.


I don’t have any experience with the Rode type setup, but if you’re using the 3.5mm cord to plug straight into the iPhone, I don’t see why it would be poor quality. It almost sounded like the iPhone was using its onboard microphone instead of the external one. I imagine you’re using a Lightning-to-3.5mm headphone jack adapter, yes? What I’d check for is if that 3.5mm audio cord coming off the Rode receiver unit has 3 “rings” on it. Look at a set of headphones that have an inline mic. You’ll see on the plug there’s 3 rings. There’s 3 contact areas inside the jack - right audio, left audio, microphone audio. If that jack doesn’t have 3, it may not be making proper contact inside the plug and telling the iPhone “hey I’ve got an external mic here!” Hope that makes sense.

The picture of this lavalier mic has the kind of jack I’m talking about: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EO4A7L0/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_mG91DbNKN5GEE

Hope that helps!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rode-Smartlav-Lavalier-Microphone-Smartphone/dp/B00EO4A7L0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1458129244&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=rode+smartlav%2B&linkCode=sl1&tag=tomscottcom-21&linkId=ffcd2f9700cd18f5708f56f6e26a0b12

This is what was recommended to me. Whatever you end up choosing, good luck with your channel!

For most podcasters, video is only a worthwhile choice when the content communicates better in video. Comedy and tutorials are often like this.

But since this is for an education project, you don't need to worry much about how much sense the decision makes. :)

Here are the most important things for video, in order of priority.

1. Audio quality—microphone(s) and recorder
   
2. Lighting
   
3. Camera quality
   
   Microphones for video are usually more expensive, but they don't have to be. Your two main choices are wearable mics and shotgun mics.
   
   Shotgun mics are expensive and cumbersome, but they keep the mics completely out of the shot.
   
   Wearable mics, like a lavalier, can be hidden. But they're sound best if you don't try to hide them. My advice is to only hide the mic when you want something to seem real, like something dramatized. Otherwise, a discreetly visible lav mic isn't distracting.
   
   On the low end, I recommend the JK MicJ 044 mic. They're small, only $29, and get surprisingly good sound for their price. It'll easily connect to any audio recorder (like the Zoom H1). Or, you can get a TRRS mic/headphone splitter and connect a lav to a smartphone and record with an app (for iOS, I like Røde Rec). For something simpler but a little more expensive, the Røde SmartLav+ sounds great and connects directly to a smartphone.
   
   For lighting, be near a window on a sunny day. Get diffused sunlight (not direct) on your face to brightly light you. Otherwise, consider a cheap three-point lighting kit.
   
   Finally, your camera could be a DSLR, smartphone, or even an HD webcam. The camera actually matters least for your overall quality. Great lighting can make even a cheap camera look good.

That's cool. Was just checking you had considered the options... From an audio point of view, a voiceover will result in cleaner audio, but it sounds like capturing the moment is more important to you.

I'm not familiar with the mic you have... I looked at it on Amazon just now and it should work fine for you, but if it's too sensitive then you need to lower the gain (level) of the mic at it's input stage. Is it the Voice Memos app that you've been using? I don't think that has gain control. I believe the Røde Rec LE app is free and has input level control, so I'd give that a try. Or the PCM Recorder MK II app by TEAC/Tascam should do the same if you prefer that.

If that doesn't work then it's likely that the mic is just too sensitive for yoru application and you might have to consider another option. I don't have much experience with consumer lav mics, only professional ones, but I've heard people say the Røde smartLav+ is surprisingly decent for the price and it has headset mount available too.

Other than that, I think you'd have to step it up a level and look at a better quality mic and probably a hardware audio recorder.

You can definitely do that, there are some cheaper ones on Amazon that I'm not sure on the quality of, or there's a Rode model that costs more but is known to be decent quality.

Personally since it's easy to return items to Amazon if they don't work well, I'd try the cheap one first and see how it goes.

Rode Shotgun (if its in your price range, there are cheaper) http://amzn.to/2cqqWVA ($200+)
Takstar mic - http://amzn.to/2cqqA10 ($24) got really good reviews and claimed that it's the same manufacturer as the rode?
Recorder: H1 - http://amzn.to/2c6zbJS ($90)
Lav: Rode Smartlav - http://amzn.to/2cqofTU ($80)
Cheaper Lav - http://amzn.to/2c0jWh6 ($18) works just as well
Trrs - Trs adaptor - http://amzn.to/2c6zbJS ($15)

Hope this helps, check out my gear list if you have any questions!

https://medium.com/@IndiemarchFilm/wedding-season-gear-list-eda046d9749a#.rhqzcw6d9

Apologies these are the English Amazon pages, but I think you can search the Amazon product number on the listing to find it in your area.

Cable:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B004SP0WAQ?cache=ddd3f2d6e23583d64a92699c8d841dde&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1411460485&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

Smartlav:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00EO4A7L0?cache=ddd3f2d6e23583d64a92699c8d841dde&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1411460567&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2

Sadly, the [$79 SmartLav Plus] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EO4A7L0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00EO4A7L0&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) is a great mic - but it can only be used with a phone with a TRRS jack - not directly into your camera (which has a TRS jack).

Rode Smartlav+

TRRS Extension cable

Although I'll bet you've come across some nice wireless lav mics in your auction travels. ;-)

I don't have experience with GoPro specifically but I really like the Rode VideoMic

https://www.amazon.com/Rode-VMGO-Lightweight-Microphone-Super-Cardioid/dp/B00GQDORA4

Its hard this is the one I ended up going with http://www.amazon.com/Polar-Pro-Promic-Microphone-GoPro/dp/B00MFVO9L8/ref=sr_1_5?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1456874646&sr=1-5&keywords=gopro+mic

over this
http://www.amazon.com/Rode-VMGO-Lightweight-Microphone-Super-Cardio/dp/B00GQDORA4/ref=sr_1_8?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1456874683&sr=1-8&keywords=gopro+mic

If it were up to me, I would get a Rode Video Micro, which is around $40 cheaper than the Video Mic Go, (I'm going USD because that's where I am, not sure if you are GBP or what, but the price ratio should be around the same) and from most of the reviews out there seems to be a bit better all around, and it comes with a dead-cat wind breaker, which you would have to pay extra for if you got the Go. If you are shooting in a forest you'll want that to help break any wind noise coming in through the trees.

Here is a review comparing the Video Micro with the Video Mic Go and the Video Mic Pro:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSfDWCpRUk8

So case 1 is get a Video Mic Go for around $100 (https://www.amazon.com/Rode-VMGO-Lightweight-Microphone-Super-Cardio/dp/B00GQDORA4) and get a dead cat wind screen for around $30 (https://www.amazon.com/Rode-DDCGO-DeadCat-Artificial-Shield/dp/B00JG8IBW6/ref=pd_bxgy_267_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=X6C0TJQWT1W5RK1TW680) because you will absolutely need it if there is any kind of wind. That would be around $130-140 depending on shipping/tax/etc.

Case 2 is get a Rode Video Micro, which I personally own and really really like, and that is $60 AND comes with a wind screen, so for the money you have saved you could get a Zoom H1 as well and come out pretty close to the same price!
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1183909-REG/rode_videomicro_compact_on_camera.html
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1260111-REG/zoom_h1b_h1_ultra_portable_digital_audio.html
$60 for the mic + ~$80 for the recorder puts you at $140, so like $10 more. Not bad in my opinion. And it gets you the peace of mind of being able to monitor your audio, make sure that you don't have any weird interference or background noise since it has a headphone jack. Yes, you have to sync audio in post, but it is totally worth it in the huge jump in audio quality. This is basically the setup that I used for quite a while (H1+ Nikon ME-1 mic for me, so this setup is probably even better) and it is a really cheap option compared to what is out there (now I am using a Zoom H4n Pro + Sennheiser Lavalier Mics + Rode Video Mic Pro and some other gear as well,) and there probably isn't a massive difference between the two setups.

Just my opinion, but I think that you would end up with better audio the second way, and the audio really makes the movie. Bad audio and a good video image/story still generally is a bad video.

This is what I'm looking to get when I'm in need of an ext. mic. Decent price and good quality, but it still doesn't solve your low-profile mic request.

Im new to the game as well, but so far these are the things I have picked up for my G6:

first, i bought a G6 kit that came with some handy stuff

I have also purchased

A slightly better tripod

A flood light

Battery pack for said light

Variable ND Fader for filming out doors

Rode shotgun Mic

Zoom H1

Lav mic to go with the H1

Headphones to listen for levels

Triple Mount Hot Shoe

Backpack to hold everything

This is just a fun lens, and its cheap the 50mm means its a 100mm equivelent, so its for really tight portraits, but the low aperture is good for low/light and for a very shallow field depth. When I am able to use it, this lens produces the most popular results when i post them online.

new strap cause the one that comes with the G6 sucks!

What i want to get:

A bigger zoom lens I am mostly interested in videography(weddings etc), and this would be good for back of the house shots)

The M 3/4's "nifty fifty"

Depends on budget, but considering he's using the onboard mic, anything will be an upgrade. I don't know what camera he is using so I don't know what kind of input he has. But you can find wired lav's for an 1/8" jack for pretty cheap. You can go wireless for $200ish. Or you can just put a shotgun mic on the camera for $70? BH is a terrific resource too :)

If you're just needing Natural Sound, then the Rode VideoMic Go will do you fine. It also picks up decently well in interviews.

However, even if you have that Shotgun for interviews, to make them just that much better, use a Giant Squid Lav Mic connected to a Zoom H1. It's a phenomenal entry level Lav setup that is decently affordable.

Let me trow my two cents into the ring.

When you say HQ video I assume you mean 1080p. That can be had much cheaper and that at good quality. More than good enough for a studio setting and interview work.

This is a good perspective by Casey Neistat on gear you need:
https://youtu.be/nLSUrTxquyE

With that being said, what most people forget is that lighting, the audio, knowing how to setup and just a little prep that can make all the difference.

In all honesty you could just buy this:

• CANON VIXIA R500
  
  
• Photo Studio Lighting Kit-3
  
  
• Rode Videomic
  
  
• Zoom H2n
  
  
• RODE invisiLav
  
  Now you are at $790.96. Bottom of your budget. Now make improvements on your kit. Maybe get a whole different camera, get another light, or additional Zoom Audio recorders. The H1 is my backup to a H4.
  
  Buying a high end camera is no guarantee that you get good video if all other factors are not right!
  
  Most important are the people that will do the interview. Do yourself a favor and broswe some youtube videos like these:
  
  https://youtu.be/LWpwgDqSkQw
  
  https://youtu.be/E26xv-bZfUU
  
  
  Best of luck!

I had a friend grab a Rhode mic that he used on his GoPro at Electric Forest Festival and he said the audio turned out pretty good.

For years Canon had a nice lens (still available) that was 10-22mm focal range. It wasn't budget but you could find them used easily enough.

Now they have an actually budget level zoom with a 10-18mm range

https://www.amazon.com/Canon-EF-S-10-18mm-4-5-5-6-Lens/dp/B00K899B9Y

Having to step back to get a building in frame is not your sensor size, it's your lens. The RX100 looks like it is a pocket camera with a fixed lens, so you get what they give you. The SL1 can have the lens removed and replaced with different styles of lenses for different purposes. What you'd want is a wide-angle lens like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-EF-S-10-18mm-4-5-5-6-Lens/dp/B00K899B9Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409795133&sr=8-1&keywords=10-18

Edit to add: The SL1 DOES have image stabilization. The difference is on the SL1 and lens-removable cameras in general, the stabilization is in the lens, not the camera body. The default lens options that comes with the SL1 has image stabilization built in.

Sorry about that. Mondays. 😩

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015R0IQGW

It depends on the shape of the room, but I know people are fans of the contractor poles. They have a smaller footprint and are sturdier. Here's a link I found: https://basereality.co/blogs/guides/htc-vive-mounts-stands#tssktssk-contractor-pole-setup

​

Personally, I use generic cheapo tripods from amazon. This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFG14ZT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

​

Pros: Cheap, portable, easy to setup, works as intended, owned since day 1 Vive, and comes with a travel bag.

Cons: not sturdy if someone is walking around they start wobbling (which is not pleasant to experience while in VR), easy to bump into, and bigger footprint.

your audio is not that bad actually. yeah it can be better but ive done worse lol My audio is finally on point now.

wait ...is that why you have the ear bud in....thats your mic? I bought a great boom mic. I have a lav too if im in a crazy area or dealing with a lot of outside noise.

i like your content i like how you have clips of the actual movie. I wanted to do something with movies but Idk how to get the movie without buying it. blaaaah. i aint tryna steal it. lol

some ppl would be put off by the swearing. Im not but i get that complaint too in my vids.

your thumbnails- good that your face is in them. make your letters bigger. use the space wisely. easy to see and highly recognizable ya know.

boom i use. not too expensive https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015R0IQGW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have these tripod stands: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFG14ZT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

They are amazing

my suggestions:

1. For room-scale setup, a minimum play area of 2 m x 1.5 m (6 ft 6 in x 5 ft) is required. That's if you're up and walking around. If you have more space, great. If you are going to be seated, you don't require this. Definitely figure out how/where you're going to mount your lighthouses - I'd recommend camera mounts like this for a booth setup.
   
2. For your audience, I'd recommend Google Earth VR (it's free and awe-inducing - can be played seated), Tilt Brush (also awe-inducing but room scale), The Blu (solid short demo), Apollo 11 Experience (for history buffs), and Titans of Space 2.0 (can also be seated, and the sense of scale in this one is pretty incredible). As far as games go, I always go to Space Pirate Trainer and Lucky's Tale (via the Revive overlay, free still from the Oculus Store I think?) for people newer to VR. Careful if you don't have a lot of space with SPT, you don't want someone smacking innocent bystanders with a Vive wand.
   
3. I'm personally curious as to your ideas to incorporate VR into genealogy. I think the audience of VR enthusiasts here skew toward the gamer, but there's a lot of VR 'experiences' that I believe have only scratched the surface of the possibilities of VR.
   
4. Maybe /r/virtualreality/? I dunno, this is as good a place as any I think.

I bought these light stands to mount them on: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFG14ZT/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have tried putting the stands on both hard wood and carpet -- the carpet seems to dampen some of the vibrations coming from the lighthouses.

I'll try taking the lighthouses off the stands, and I'll also try one of the lighthouses away from the glass-covered desk my computer is on.


What seems weird to me is that the tracking works well when I'm facing 90 degrees from either of the base stations, and my headset never has any tracking issues whatsoever.

I think any light stand set will serve you just fine. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MFG14ZT/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496917911&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=light+stand+vive&psc=1 This one even comes with the mounts you need. I can't remember the brand I am using but I have a setup that's nearly identical to these.

I purchased this and they seem to work great for the price.

If I understand correctly, you will either be standing or sitting in the same general location in the room. If this is the case, you will be fine with the light house positions unless when you sit there is something blocking the line of sight to the lighthouse (high backed chair, furniture ,etc). I don't anticipate this being the case as you position them in opposite corners, diagonal from where you generally face so that you can position them to minimize any obstructions.

​

If you wanted to do a room scale play area somewhere in the room, you would need to move the lighthouses. To do this the best way, get light stands. I got these from Amazon Fovitec Light Stands for this purpose. I have a large room scale play area near my computer. When I want to play DCS or Elite Dangerous, I move the lighthouses around my desk where my HOTAS, rudder pedals and keyboard are. It's a bit of a pain but it's not that bad. DCS is incredible in VR. You will never be able to play it any other way.

​

General advice on setting up is to follow the directions as it's pretty simple. Main mistake I hear people making is plugging things incorrectly on the connector box (this has cables to the PC, power and the tether to the headset). Have a look for some videos if you are uncertain, that's what I did. Play the free game The Lab as it's a great introduction to the basics of VR and is a lot of fun with some cool things to discover in it.

Fovitec StudioPRO - 2x 7'6" Light Stand VR Compatible Kit w/ Ball Head Mount - [HTC Vive and VR Edition][For Photo and Video][Includes Carrying Bag] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFG14ZT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_jlmuoMbN69aPU

Really nice set, collapses easily and comes with a carrying bag.

Use the tripod things so you can take it all down after your session.

I'm in the same boat with holes in walls. I had mine on some tall lamps, but the lack of height caused some tracking issues. I got these (comes with two): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFG14ZT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


and they work really well. The only downside is I can't get the stations all the way into the corners due to the width of the base, but that's a small issue.

Amazon! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MFG14ZT/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491964367&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

I did a bunch of research and there is a lot of good things to say about the Rode directional mic. I just ordered one for myself.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015R0IQGW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

>Yes but what kind of stands for monitors?

Something like this. Of course, it doesn't actually have to be those, it just needs to be something to hold up the controller-tracking monitors lighthouses.

If you don't want to mess with your walls, a fine solution is to use tripods similar to the ones for photo lights. For my Vive I have these for my dorm's common room and they work just fine. When I'm home and I have less floor space in my room I use these clamps to secure the lighthouses to my closet door and lamp, and they're perfect. I actually prefer these over the tripods as there's no risk of knocking over a tripod.

​

I assume both products are compatible with the Index Lighthouses because afaik they use the same standard threaded mounts as the Vive.

Very nice! These are the stands I got. The picture shows a very wide footprint but if you extend that bottom all the way out it actually creates a very narrow footprint (12" diameter)

Edit: They actually sell a "VR Edition" of these stands if you also want the tiny mounts.

Not trying to shill or anything, but these are extremely well priced. I have the non-Vive version. But looks like they've since made a VR version!

I demo my Vive alllll the time and they have proven incredibly useful.

These are the ones I use, they were recommended by another user on here, before I purchased them. Work perfect. $45 for the set.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFG14ZT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fovitec StudioPRO - 2x 7'6" Light Stand VR Compatible Kit w/ Ball Head Mount

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFG14ZT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are what I use. Quality is surprisingly good.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFG14ZT

I got these, and they work great. They take up maybe 1 square foot of space.

These are what I use.

it means the HMD lost view of your lighthouses. Position your light houses better. I highly recommend getting some tall photographic light stands and getting them up above you.

I use these for my lighthouses and they've worked a treat: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFG14ZT

I tried command strips, and my base stations just fell after 5 minutes. I got stands and they work great:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFG14ZT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFG14ZT/

This looks similar, but looks like they've price gouged a little because people are buying them for VR, they're a little more expensive than what I paid for a very similar product.

The ones I own are KONIG brand but they're not on US amazon, only UK.

[I ordered these](http://www.Fovitec.com/ StudioPRO - 2x 7'6" Light Stand VR Compatible Kit w/ Ball Head Mount - [HTC Vive and VR Edition][For Photo and Video][Includes Carrying Bag] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFG14ZT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_B1DtybVXQ2CXE) been working perfect

Depends on how you feel about camera Pod's but this is what I used. They allow you to change the height of the sensor's. I did have to use one USB extension cable for one of the two front sensors. The third sensor comes with an extension cable and I bought enough stands to put that one on a camera stand also. Here is the link to the Amazon items I used. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFG14ZT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought these light stand/tripod things for mine. It is $45 for the pair, and they come with the ball-joint so that you can set the sensor at the right angle, while with other stands you tend to need to buy them separately. I went with these because the kind of poles that mount by applying pressure to the ceiling and floor were more expensive over all, weren't going to be helpful when trying to set up in a room with high/slanted ceilings, and they might damage the "popcorn" ceilings in my house.

I do have two thoughts though that you can consider about these before deciding. First, there are some internal springs that seem to sometimes decide to ring quite aggressively due to the vibrations from the base station (usually fixed by tightening the bolts). The second is that the tripod base may force you to decrease your play area, or in my case they get in the way of moving my desk chair out of my play area, so I am constantly needing to move the tripod, so I basically have to rerun the room setup every time I go to use my Vive. Neither is too much of a hassle, but they are both things to keep in mind.

Edit: You can get the pair of stands for slightly less without the ball joints, but then you won't be able to set the angle at all, and a pair of ball joint adapters on their own will make you end up spending even more.

I also have an HTC Vive with the deluxe audio strap. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFG14ZT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 are great for mounting the sensors at an ideal spot.

>It's a residence, so I can't be putting anything to the walls.

Unless you mean that it's physically not possible to mount them, you probably actually can mount them to the walls. Nail and screw holes are usually considered part of normal, reasonable wear & tear. You can always spackle them at the end of the semester, too. But hell, IANAL.

Otherwise, you can always buy a cheap camera/light stand. I'm using these.

SECTION | CONTENT
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Title | Galaxy S8 vs OnePlus 3T - Speed Test! (4K)
Description | Samsung Galaxy S8 Plus vs OnePlus 3T speed test! Can the S8 overcome the 6gb RAM in the 3T or will the 3T charge the S8 plus' beast status? Subscribe! (it's free!): https://goo.gl/aKmpu8 Gear to make this video: Camera - Panasonic G85 Amazon link: http://amzn.to/2pUFUdj Mic - Maono Lav Mic Amazon link: http://amzn.to/2pTr1tE -or- Rode VideoMicro Amazon link: http://amzn.to/2qOHMnC Follow me for more tech and car stuff: Instagram @timmers_em1: https://www.instagram.com/timmers_em1 Twitter...
Length | 0:08:36






****

^(I am a bot, this is an auto-generated reply | )^Info ^| ^Feedback ^| ^(Reply STOP to opt out permanently)

I don't know what the best microphone for the 2XL is but I have been using this microphone with my DSLR and thought I'd try with my 2XL: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015R0IQGW

This cable works with my 2XL / dongle: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L6C8T22

Just got the new Google camera a few days ago so haven't been able to play with it a lot. it works. Sound quality is very good but the audio level is very low making it basically unusable. Haven't found a way to turn up the mic gain.

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Title|Overcoming negative mental health
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Comments|6
Description|Overcoming negative mental health is not easy, it's a journey but there is a destination. In this video I share a bit of my story. How I got to a bad place and how / what I did to get back out again. ⤶I hope this video can inspire and help you take some steps forward to eventually become free of negative thoughts and habits to live your life to the fullest. Having overcome your mental negative health! - With that, have an awesome day friend!⤶⤶This video was recorded using a Canon EOS M50: US: https://amzn.to/2Kxbw6J ⤶UK: https://amzn.to/2P5VKhA CA: https://amzn.to/2UzLeFi⤶Microphone - RODE VideoMicro: US: https://amzn.to/2DbOig1 UK: https://amzn.to/2Zaez87 CA: https://amzn.to/2X8V3Xw⤶⤶Looking to start a YouTube channel I recommend using the analytics tools⤶VidIQ: https://vidiq.com/#_l_yv⤶TubeBuddy: https://www.tubebuddy.com/AlexTheAnder⤶⤶DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.⤶⤶⤶⤶In this video Alexander Grans talks about his life before, through and after high school. How he ended up with negative mental health, but then overcame it through various means. How negative thoughts, negative feelings and depression can be turned around, with certain steps.

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A lac mic is sounding like the best option! I do have this shotgun Rode mic:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B015R0IQGW/
But I'm worried about it being clipped on top of my camera - wouldn't that pick up the whirring noise of the lens autofocus?

Cool, Thank you!

Do you think the wireless mic would be a better option than something like this?

Rode VideoMicro Compact On-Camera Microphone with Rycote Lyre Shock Mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015R0IQGW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A17MC6HOH9AVE6

Can you eleborate on comprehensive audio setup?

I'm trying to think of ideas of how filming my teaching this could work audio-wise. I could potentially re-add the music in post production and maybe have the voice audio mic so loud that the music in the back wouldn't show up at all.

My goal is to create videos of me teaching my group yoga classes to post it on YouTube so people can take the classes with us if they choose. I'm hung up on the audio and also getting into music copywrite stuff for youtube. I create unique playlists to teach to for each class and it is a big component to the teaching. If I can integrate the music the classes will be more interesting, dynamc and fun.

Any Ideas or suggestions anyone has is appreciated! I've been trying to sort through this for a while now...

Perhaps this?

Fovitec - 1x 7'6" VR Gaming Lighthouse Mount Stand Kit - [HTC Vive and Oculus Rift Compatible][Adjustable Ball Heads][Includes Carrying Bag] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFG14ZT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZQtlDbQD144P3

I’m about to buy a Vive once my computer comes in the mail. Any suggestions would be great for games!

Also I see these things: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFG14ZT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_a.3mDbZCBJ7TM
Are these something that I should get or does it not matter?

I have light stands with ball mounts: Even so, the lighthouses worked fine before I angled them down. I'd still recommend angling them down for optimal low height tracking though.

Here's the link. Can't format it properly on mobile.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFG14ZT?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Regular camera tripod connectors will fit fine, but will be a little short for the usual configuration near the ceiling and toward the corners of the room. We use these at work:

https://www.amazon.com/Fovitec-Lighthouse-Compatible-Adjustable-Carrying/dp/B01MFG14ZT

At home I have mine attached to the wall directly, and the wall mounts are included with the kit.

The MSI Trident 3 with a GTX1060 is above the minimum specs for running VR applications but I haven't tried it myself. I suspect some applications will run fine, especially those with relatively low polygon counts, while others will stutter and make you feel sick.

You'll have to try things out and see what works for you.

If you have a laptop and use some portable stands there is no need to spend more money on another set of lighthouses. It takes just a couple minutes to do a room setup.
https://smile.amazon.com/Fovitec-StudioPRO-Light-Compatible-Carrying/dp/B01MFG14ZT/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498764315&sr=8-3&keywords=vive+stands

Haha, glad you're enjoying it. If you don't want a permanent mounting solution in the living room walls, you can consider picking up a few photography light stands like these: https://www.amazon.com/Fovitec-Lighthouse-Compatible-Adjustable-Carrying/dp/B01MFG14ZT/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537591613&sr=8-3&keywords=vr+stand

(note, these have an adjustable top for the sensors to screw into, some stands don't which makes them hard to adjust for vr use)
They'll give you a portable solution with enough height, and you can take them down easy when you need your living room back.

Of course, you can always go the route of using wall mounts to attach them directly, depends how far you want to go with it.

Oh and don't forget to check out the free content it came with, robo recall, lucky's tale, marvel powers, dead & buried, echo arena, medium, and anything else as well. Superhot is another top pick, as well as lone echo- theres a lot to see!

My vive is coming in tomorrow.. I also ordered these: https://www.amazon.com/Fovitec-StudioPRO-Light-Compatible-Carrying/dp/B01MFG14ZT/ref=pd_sim_63_16?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01MFG14ZT&pd_rd_r=9B4MAM0PZJR9R2ZP35P0&pd_rd_w=jYkSl&pd_rd_wg=eMkMY&psc=1&refRID=9B4MAM0PZJR9R2ZP35P0

Will report back on the level of success. I could drill the mounts into the wall but given the fact that I'm renting, I dont' want to patch the holes up when I leave. Some people are saying the 3M command strips are strong enough to hold them as well but with the strips, you can't angle them easily.

i wonder if this "vive vr edition" will work with oculus sensors too (same brand as the one you listed):

https://www.amazon.com/Fovitec-StudioPRO-Classic-Light-Carrying/dp/B01MFG14ZT/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&qid=1482768396&ref_=sxts1&sr=1&th=1

I just bought these which are 7'6" but there is an 8'6"version (here)

Vive seems really good. If you want more mobility with the vive then I'd recommend some stands like this. The stands allow you to setup without drilling into walls.

I would go diagonal corneros for 360 , 15 foot active usb extension for the rear sensor. Get a couple tripods if u don't want to put holes in the walls like these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFG14ZT

Hey guys! First time checking out this subreddit.

Current camera: Canon T5i

Current lenses:

• Kit (Canon 18-55mm)
  
• 50mm f/1.8
  
• Canon 55 - 250mm
  
  
  Two questions:
  
  1: I wanted to get a wide angle lense for doing some star photography / landscapes / cityscapes. I was torn between these two lenses:
  
  
• Canon EF-S 10 - 18mm IS STM
  
• Canon EF-S 10 - 22mm USM
  
  I don't really care that the 10-18 is mostly plastic, given the lenses I already have. But, I didn't know if the 10 - 22mm would be worth it. It also seems to be lacking IS but would it be more versatile having the extra 4mm and toting it around for the day?
  
  2: While I love the prime 50mm I have, I find that it's incredible zoomed in for obvious reasons. I see a lot of amazing pictures taken (suggestive/tainted opinion, photos of which I aim to take) with prime lenses around the 20mm's range. These two lenses I was interested in and didn't know if they are more "wide angle" than they are actually for candid/portraits and a good reliable daily shooter:
  
  
• Canon EF 24mm f/2.8 IS USM
  
• Canon EF 28mm f/1.8 USM
  
  Again, I'm running into the IS or no IS problem. Didn't know if people have had experiences with either.
  
  Thank you!

I'm not sure how wide your dad wants to go, but you could check out the 24mm f2.8 for $150.

If you think he would want to go wider, maybe spend a hundred more than you want to and get the 10-18mm.

So I have a Canon T3i and a 50mm f/1.8 II. In the near future, I will be purchasing a new lens. I'm still a newbie, so I don't really have a specific style and I just shoot what's in front of me. I've been doing predominantly street photography and auto photography, but i'm also looking to branch out. It's come to my attention that I should have a wide angle lens in my arsenal as I was begging for a wider perspective when I went to my first auto show a couple weeks ago. It made framing weird, and I had to move back which was quite inconvenient in a packed show like that. I also love landscapes and views so I want something wide to capture those as well.
Here are some of the choices I'm considering.
Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8

Canon EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM

Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 EX DC HSM Lens

Tamron AF 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5 SP Di II LD Aspherical (IF) Lens

There are also a couple lenses that I have stumbled upon that are not as wide, but have a longer focal length which may double as more than just a wide-angle.

Tamron SP AF 17-50mm F/2.8 XR Di II LD Aspherical (IF) Lens (really have my eye on this one!)

Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Standard Zoom Lens

This is all a bit confusing for a noob like me, so any help is appreciated it. If you feel like there is a better option, please do recommend it to me! And also, i'm on a working-class student budget.

One last question, how do you feel about used lenses. Just curious towards your experiences as i feel like they can be bargains. Lenses are built to last a long time if they're taken care of right? Sorry for the long post but thanks in advanced!

Not sure, here's some online sites for reference:

https://www.usa.canon.com/internet/portal/us/home/products/details/lenses/ef/ultra-wide-zoom/ef-s-10-18mm-f-4-5-5-6-is-stm


https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1051476-USA/canon_9519b002_ef_s_10_18mm_f_4_5_5_6_is.html

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_productid=202283398&_sop=12&isRefine=true&LH_ItemCondition=2500%7C3000%7C4000%7C5000%7C6000&LH_Complete=1&LH_Sold=1&rt=nc&_trksid=p2045573.m1684

https://www.amazon.com/Canon-EF-S-10-18mm-4-5-5-6-Lens/dp/B00K899B9Y

There are a couple of differences. The Sony A5000 is a mirrorless camera whereas the Canon 100D is a DSLR. Therefore the Canon 100D will have a larger form factor. Here's a nice resource for comparison.

In terms of differences between a mirrorless and DSLR, without getting technical, the main one is that generally you are paying a premium for a smaller form factor. DSLRs are generally more rugged, do the same job as a mirrorless, but they are larger and so are their lenses.

Also, the 100D is actually slightly smaller than other DSLRs. A 1200D is slightly larger, has the same features, and is slightly newer (2014 vs 2013) and also a bit cheaper as it's larger. My recommendation for you at your budget of ~$450 is to go the used/refurb route.

For the camera I'd get the Canon 1200D - about $250 used, you can probably find it cheaper in the Black Friday sales. For the lens I might go for something general purpose like the Tamron 17-50mm f2.8. The reason for choosing the Tamron is that it is a zoom lense - covers multiple focal lengths. At the wide end, it's the equivalent of 27mm or 66° horizontal viewing angle. This is pretty standard for the wide end of a zoom lense and will be ok for taking landscapes. If you want a better wide angle lense, consider the 10-18mm Canon f4.5 lense. This lense is slower a f4.5 (i.e. has a smaller aperture - lets in less light), however it has a horizontal viewing angle of 95° - a lot better than 66° before. Take into consideration though that while the Tamorn won't be as wide angled, it will be capable of letting in more light (better at taking the northern lights/night time photography), and will be better at taking portrait photos (you want a larger aperture to get a better blurred background.) Ideally you would get a combination of lenses - such as the Canon 10-18mm and a dedicated portrait lense for awesome background blurs - however this would fall out of your budget. Good luck on finding a camera!

Looks to me like this -
http://www.amazon.com/Canon-EF-S-10-18mm-4-5-5-6-Lens/dp/B00K899B9Y

This lens or this lens are great all-round and good in lowlight. Half of my album is with an equivalent lens like this.

If you're into ultra-wides (the other half of the album is an ultra-wide), then this lens is great, and this lens is even better but more expensive.

Those two focal lengths have carried me for the past 4 years without me ever feeling the need to get anything else. That being said, this lens I think is a must have for all Canon users. At just over $100, it will deliver great results in lowlight. Honestly it might be the best bang for buck lens in all of photography. And because it's so cheap, plus you're getting the camera free, I might even recommend getting all three, if that's in the budget.

If you want to be a little more conservative, here's what I would do: Get one of the first two I linked, shoot and play around with that for a while, and see what you find you need next. Do you want something a little more zoomed in for shallow depth of field and delicious bokeh? Get the 50mm. Do you crave getting some sweet wide shots? Get one of the ultra-wides. Let your needs decide what your second lens is, because it's a very personal choice and no one can know what you want to shoot until you try it out for yourself.

Software: Adobe Lightroom is all I use really, and it's all you need. It's designed as an all-in-one management, editing, and publishing platform.

Good luck!

I couldn't find the rokinon 10-18 but the canon one is also like $300, is that one better than canon http://www.amazon.com/Canon-EF-S-10-18mm-4-5-5-6-Lens/dp/B00K899B9Y ?

So I have had my T4i DSLR for a while now, and I am looking to get a new lens. I got it with the 18-135mm STM lens.

I want to get more into photography, specifically landscape shots, a lot of cool night scenes, and some timelaspes. I am also going to Europe for several months and am looking for something a bit smaller than the 18-135 that will be more comfortable to carry around.

Two lenses I have came up with are the Canon EF-S 24mm f/2.8 STM Lens and the Canon EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM Lens.

Now in terms of price I am definitely more comfortable with the 24mm as I am just getting into photography more.

One thing I am worried about with the 10-18 lens is it being too wide for a lens that will act as my primary one. While it may be nice for those landscape shots, would it work photographing places in European Cities like London? Also, I have read the 10-18mm takes sharper photos, is this true?

Let me know what you think I should pull the trigger on.

I have a Canon T2i with the stock lense. I really want to up my night sky/milky way photography game, but am tight on money. I understand I need something wide angle and fast. I've looked at the following options. I really wanted to stay below $300. I may buy a new Canon at some point, but its going to be years, so it would be great if the lense would likely work with a future Canon. This may sound silly, but since I'm an East Coast dweller, dark skies here are rare, another reason why I can't drop gobs of money on something that will only be useful when I'm out west. So something in between would be welcome too. I'm totally fine with refurbs too. If anyone knows a cheaper resource.

https://www.amazon.com/Canon-EF-S-10-18mm-4-5-5-6-Lens/dp/B00K899B9Y/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_421_bs_lp_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=SZXV4HWRB075AJ8RGZWR&th=1

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/769532-REG/Rokinon_FE14M_C_14mm_Ultra_Wide_Angle_f_2_8.html

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/423714-REG/Tamron_AF016C700_17_50mm_f_2_8_XR_Di.html

I think these are all compatible with the T2i, but I'm running into alot of conflicting information.

Though not a fisheye, the Canon 10-18mm ultrawide might be more useful and is fairly inexpensive.

So, the old kit lens on my T1i has officially crapped out (it was 7 years old, rip little guy) I've mostly self-taught the absolute basics and just dabbled and had fun on road trips and vacations. However, now I'm starting to take an interest in getting back into basic photography. I've started visiting friends around the US and gone on hiking and backpacking trips and really want some memorable shots.

I just ordered myself a nifty 50mm lens for $125 off Amazon, as well as a tiny tripod and a lens hood and polarizer. However, now that I'm going hiking more often I'd also like to invest in a decent wide angle lens for some beautiful landscape shots.

For the kinds of shots I want to take (mountain shots, landscape, scenery) is it worth it for me to get the 10-18mm or just stick with the basic 24mm? Any advice is welcome :)

Edit: a couple words

I own a 70D with a 50mm f1.8 STM lens on it - and only that lens. I was wondering if there was another ~$300 lens that has the ability to zoom, but won't require me to move around too much when photographing. I hang out with my friends quite frequently and capture it all through the 50mm, although lately I have been finding it more and more inconvenient when trying to take a group photo or generally pictures in small places - there's no room to move around much with the 50mm. I was looking at this lens, but wondering if there was any other lens that could fit the need I'm trying to fulfill ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K899B9Y ). Thanks guys!

I'd go with the EF-S 10-18. $300, you could supplement that with an 18-135 in time and have a pretty great range.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K899B9Y?pc_redir=1411930780&robot_redir=1

The Canon EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM Lens, I think is the best bang for your buck. It's cheap ultra wide angle lens with optical image stablization.
Sample shots taken with GH4 and this lens: link.

If I were you I'd go out and try to shoot some landscape photography with your 18-55mm lens and take a look at the shots afterwards to determine if the wide-angle is necessary. 18mm is pretty wide and would work well for a lot of landscape shots but you go shooting with it and if you think you need a bit wider then go for it!

Getting a telephoto lens would, like you said, give you a wider range of shots and would be great for wildlife photography when you're out shooting landscapes and spot a deer, or other animal.

Another lens you might want to consider is the Canon 50mm f/1.8 which is great for portraits and it's only $110.

There's this bundle here for $350 it includes the 10-18mm lens you mentioned as well as the 50mm lens I mentioned.

Some other options:

Canon 24mm f/2.8 which is a lot of people on this sub recommend as a good general purpose lens. ($150)

Samyang 14mm f/2.8 is another highly recommend wide-angle lens mentioned on this sub, manual focus only but it's cheap! ($300)

Edit:

Also, check out this thread from yesterday! It was basically asking people from this sub what their favorite relatively cheap lens were and I found it extremely helpful.

This lens is also cheaper on Amazon

Canon EF-S 24mm f/2.8 STM Lens https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NI3BZ5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wAmAyb7SGSE9S