(Part 3) Best camera & photo accessories according to redditors
We found 44,558 Reddit comments discussing the best camera & photo accessories. We ranked the 13,571 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
Plenty of options:
Versatile: Mobius ($70-100 USD) (Requires separate purchase: Power cable or hardwire kit + Micro SD card + adhesive Mount) + recommended purchase Super capacitor - Good video quality, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. No wifi/cellphone app. - This isn't the best dash cam in the world, but it is one of the smaller ones. It was made for the drone world, and repurposed for the dash cam world. Lacks Cloud feature. - No GPS - Lacks G sensor (because it is part of the drone world)
Budget Dual Cams:
Last year's Flagship Dual Cams:
This year's Flagship Dual Cams:
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Just to complicate things a bit more: BlackVue 1CH dash cams can not be upgraded to 2 CH. They will lack the rear camera port, as the 1CH dash cams are physically different than the 2CH versions.
Thinkware dash cams which have 1CH/2CH versions can be upgraded from 1 CH -> 2CH.
Look around for the best price. - Standard copy pasta.
Hi Nooby_Scooby, there is an ongoing Question thread is here for small questions like this :) You might find it interesting to read and there will always be people answering questions in there.
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As for your question, Why do you plan to buy a full frame body? You're spending more money now and carrying extra weight for the years until you upgrade to full frame.
I'm going to go against pretty much everyone in this thread and offer you this alternative advice :)
A lens like the 17-55mm f2.8 is actually an option you should consider if you're not upgrading very soon (i.e. next purchase or within the year).
Lenses like this have very good resale value especially if you buy them used. You would lose at most $100 from buying a new one and selling it in 2-3 years when you upgrade to full frame. If you buy used, and resell it, you probably won't lose any money and might even make money if you're a good haggler.
The 17-55mm f2.8 is about half the price and half the weight of the 24-70mm f2.8, and actually has a more normal focal length when on your camera. (Although some photographers might prefer to have a the longer focal length that the 24-70mm would have on a x1.6 crop)
In his how to be a good YouTuber video he mentioned that he gets them for about $19 and that it usually has a clip (he broke the one on his), so it is probably this or something similar.
Man, I understand when making YouTube videos is a hobby and people don’t want to invest a lot of money into it, but having bad audio ruins a video for me. It sounds like you’re really far away from the mic, then you get closer and it’s loud. Then there’s a hum/whine going the whole time. Lapel microphones are cheap and they improve audio consistency and quality while not being too inconvenient. Here’s one that seems to have pretty good reviews for a little more than $20. I know it seems knit picky to get stuck on this but to me the difference in quality of audio is what separates high end channels with a lot of production value from someone who just films something and uploads it.
They're not too expensive at $359.99 - less than a PS4 http://www.amazon.com/Orion-8945-SkyQuest-Dobsonian-Telescope/dp/B001DDW9V6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376678749&sr=8-1&keywords=xt8
I've made two recommendations before. I am not an astronomer, amateur or pro. I have been interested and have found some information about it, that's where these come from.
First order of business. Bigger hole is better. Always. Get the biggest diameter scope you can get. With that in mind these two have been suggested as great starters:
The Astroscan a good review from Dan's Data. It used to be cheaper, and normally was recommended before the next one, but now they're pretty close in price, but that one is still smaller and more portable.
The Orion Dobsonian XT8 Though really any 8" telescope would be good, but at 350$ for a well reviewed major name brand one is very nice.
Oh, and two more things, 1. get a book from somewhere. It's really important to know what's worth looking at, when and where. 2. find and speak with an astronomy club. They often have viewing events where you go and look through their setup scopes. That'll get you recommendations, perhaps second hand eq, and at the very least an idea of what you're getting into.
Edit: Wow, thanks generous stranger!
It looks like it's the cheapo Yi - I have four that I bought on Amazon for $120 during a sale. I have three in my house and one in my shop.
I love it - it even captures audio and mine function great.
So I feel like I have some advice to offer here. I work at a farmers market and the booth next to mine sells candles. I would say they make about $200-300 a day. I personally don't buy candles, but I'm obsessed with wax melts and know many other people who are as well. There's honestly a whole weird subculture around it and I've been known to spend $50-100 on them at a time when ordering online. I have three drawers full of wax melts and some of them are so sought after that there are selling and trading groups on Facebook.
The booth next to me at the farmers market sells their candles for $15 each or 3 for $35. Lots of people will really fall in love with two scents and then they can't help but spend another $5 to get a third. They do a great job of marketing. All the candles are just in clear, cylinder jars. They're not colorful, just white soy wax. They use cedar wicks. Their scents are really fun and unique and have cute names like Netflix and Chill, Gummy Bears etc. I feel like they have a variety of scents that appeal to people of all ages, but their branding is clean and basic enough to also appeal to anyone.
Looking at your page I don't even see what kind of wax you use. I don't know what your wicks are made of. I don't know if you're using essential oils, which you've blended into these fragrances or what your methods are for making these candles. I have to be honest, people care about these things A LOT. Hell, I've even heard people ask how soy wax is made. These people have all the answers to these questions and people really do want to know.
I'm not going to lie, I'm in my 30s and if I saw your candles I might not even stop to look because they look old fashion to me. They look craft mall/Americana/shabby chic at best. That's my cold hard truth to you. Also the scents seem to be mostly dupes of mainstream fragrances or just really basic stock fragrances. So they just don't seem special. Nothing on the website tells me why they're special. You don't even have like "your story" or anything on your page that I can find. Also your photos are grainy and dark and just not very appealing.
As for the wax melts, I know they're not the most exciting thing in the world, but some companies make them into that. My favorite wax melt company is The Bathing Garden. (www.thebathinggarden.com)
This is my last order from them. When I get these packages, it's like Christmas morning. They charge $3.75 for each clamshell. Everything is beautiful. The fragrances are limited edition and all beautifully crafted and blended. There are new themes and some fragrances are rereleased annually. Here's the kicker- they're so busy that the turn around time is SIX WEEKS. When I first heard this I thought what a horrific business model. I can't imagine waiting a month and a half to get an order from them. When I got that first order I about died. Everything was amazing. I've never smelled such smells. Since that first order I've almost always had an open order with them. I just got that order and I'm now waiting on another order I places maybe three weeks ago.
They do a fragrance of the month and it's hard for me to resist because its just there for the month and then it's gone. They describe their fragrances in great detail and give them fun names and create every clamshell into a work of art. It feels valuable when I get it. It feels and smells worth every penny.
I will honestly say their website kinda sucks and it's worse on mobile, but their stuff is so fabulous that word of mouth creates all the buzz they need.
Also my best friend makes perfume which she sells online. She custom blends her fragrances and they are released seasonally in themes. She offers sample packs and full size products. She is very successful even though people can't smell her items before spending money on them. Her descriptions are very through.
Start with better photos. That's super important. Get this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CX9S8A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MjtgzbWTZ49MH
The weird backgrounds aren't doing your stuff any favors. Maybe include some props depending on the fragrances. I sell nail polish online, which I make. Sometimes props can be fun. You can see that this photo was taken in the lightbox and it's fun and bright.
I hope this wasn't too harsh and is at least some what helpful. I've been selling nail polish online for four years and did over 11k sales on etsy last year. I woke a full time job and most weeks I only have one solid day to work on my polish business. I would say that branding and unique offerings/names are at least 80% of why my business is successful. I make it all really personal and informational and entertaining to buy products from my shop. Which is what I want when I buy something online.
Thanks! I do have a little lightbox, but honestly I've been a bit lazy lately. So I've just been throwing things on a piece of posterboard in either natural light or under the very bright LED lighting in my kitchen. And I use my phone (Galaxy S9) as the camera.
Hi /u/codyhart - I am a GH4 shooter. It is a great camera, but with a $3000 camera budget, I would buy a camcorder.
As you say, by the time you buy ND filters, a Speedbooster to compensate for the GH4's sensor size, an XLR audio solution with decent preamps and rigging (e.g., a top handle) to compensate for its ergonomics - you might as well buy a real video camera.
In your price range, I recommend a [$2499 like new Super 35 4K JVC LS300 from a JVC authorized dealer] (https://www.amazon.com/JVC-GY-LS300CHU-Ultra-Camcorder-Handle/dp/B00USBVISE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?m=A2G9URD6L8MGV6&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1487606994&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) with a [$238 Canon to micro 4/3 autofocusing adapter] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=351515840152&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) and something like a [used $264.93 Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 lens with a 30 day warranty from Cellular Stream via Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-17-50mm-Aperture-Standard-Digital/dp/B003A6H27K/ref=as_li_ss_tl?m=A3GMNP3CXMIPDP&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1487606647&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).
The LS300 has these features the GH4 lacks:
I have shot with this camera, it is a solid pro camcorder with the ability to produce high quality 4K video at a reasonable price.
Here are a few examples of the image quality this camera can produce:
Narrative
Music Video
Corporate/Commercial/Interview
Live Event
Wedding
J-LOG on Vimeo (please watch at 4K and your monitor's highest resolution)
1080p on Vimeo
J-LOG on YouTube (please watch at 2160p and your monitor's highest resolution)
Non-LOG Gammas on YouTube (2160p)
This camera is not perfect. It has a tiny viewfinder and LCD, so you'll probably need to buy an EVF - and, although it has 4:2:2 chroma subsampling, it is still an 8-bit camera.
But for less than $3000, it is the most flexible large sensor, interchangeable lens 4K Super 35 camcorder on the market.
Hope this is helpful and good luck with finding the right camera for your needs!
It's two parts:
The tripod adapter is just wide enough to hold the Switch, thought it's a very snug fit.
http://www.amazon.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-Sports/dp/B00DP1WYD2
Solid purchase
SMALLRIG Cool Ballhead Arm Super Clamp Mount Multi-Function Double Ball Adapter with Bottom Clamp for Ronin-M, Ronin MX, Freefly MOVI - 1138 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5XH4O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pRoSDbQBWA3SC
If you have good wifi i would recommend these Yi security cameras, they are both $40 and connect with just a micro USB cable & wifi. The smartphone app is awesome with these cameras, you get instant playback and you can set motion alerts.
https://www.amazon.com/YI-Wireless-Security-Surveillance-US/dp/B016F3M7OM
https://www.amazon.com/YI-Camera-Wireless-Security-Surveillance/dp/B01CW4BG4K/
Orion SkyQuest XT8
Canon: https://www.amazon.ca/Sigma-17-50mm-Aperture-Standard-Digital/dp/B003A6H27K
Nikon: https://www.amazon.ca/Sigma-17-50mm-Aperture-Standard-Digital/dp/B003A6NU3U/
Sigma makes two variants of this lens. You have posted eBay links for a Canon lens and a Nikon lens.
The focal range of the 24-70 is designed for FX cameras with a larger sensor. This lens on your camera would have a FoV equivalent to a 36-105 mm lens, which I consider too narrow at the wide end for "general use"/"walkabout"
On the flipside, the 17-55 mm lens would have a FoV equivalent to about 25-72 mm, which you can see is very similar to the 24-70, showing that they're lenses intended to provide a similar FoV albeit on different sensor formats.
The Nikon 17-55 f/2.8 is crazy expensive, however. I've never used one, but the Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 can be bad for $300 USD at a mere fraction of the cost. It's very highly regarded, so definitely check it out.
> I screwed up the settings by accident, but it's not that bad.
Here's an honest critique, not to be mean, but you seem to have an interest in taking good photos. I started on a Canon 60D, which shares the same image sensor as the T4i. All of my images of Cleveland were shot with that camera.
This picture has two/three things technically wrong with it; focus, blur, and grain. You can solve all three of those issues by shooting on a tripod.
Shooting on a tripod will allow you to take longer exposure than if you were shooting handheld (because it doesn't move). Because you can shoot longer, you can also stop your aperture down a bit. Most lenses are sharper when the aperture is slightly closed a bit (around f/5.6 - f/8, but vary's depending on lens). You will also be able to lower your iso, which will help avoid noise/grain issues.
Also, when shooting longer exposures, its best to avoid any camera movement or interaction at all. You can buy a "remote shutter release" to avoid touching the shutter button. Also, use "mirror lockup", to avoid movement from the mirror swinging when a picture is taken.
I encourage you to read how to take clear nighttime image, find a solid tripod, and attempt to retake the picture. Part of the fun of photography is growing in your skill and this is a great opportunity to do so.
To add to what /u/bard108 said - the preview you seen on the back of the camera's LCD screen is a JPG that the camera processes on it's own according to whatever picture style you've got the camera set to.
jpg vs raw
If you are shooting in JPG mode only, then the files coming from the camera should look pretty close to that on screen preview when you pull them off of the memory card, however if you are working in RAW mode you need to actually use a raw converter (Lightroom, Adobe Camera RAW, Capture One, etc) to get the colors where you want them to be.
white balance
In a few of your images on your website, it appears that you are either using the wrong white balance setting, or you are shooting with auto-white balance and the camera is guessing wrong.
Here's an article about setting custom white balance with Nikon cameras: Setting White Balance
If you are shooting RAW, I recommend getting a pocket sized grey card and keeping it in your kit. Take one photo for each different lighting scenario, with the grey card near the center of the frame and then when you bring your photo in to your RAW processor you use the white balance dropper tool on the grey card to get a neutralized white balance.
Neutral white balance might not be where you want to live (some images feel better if they are warmer or cooler) but it's a starting point for your decision making.
color space
If you ARE shooting in JPG mode, pay attention to which color space your camera is using. Generally you'll have the option to use sRGB or Adobe1998.
Adobe1998 is better if you plan to do editing on the JPG once it leaves the camera, but if you want to just upload the images to flickr (or wherever) without doing any edits whatsoever then sRGB is a better choice.
Anything you want to upload to the web needs to be saved in the sRGB color space because most modern web browsers only really understand that colorspace. If you upload something in Adobe1998 or ProPhoto by accident you'll usually get a weird color cast. ie sometimes skin tones look greenish which is no bueno.
(I will say it doesn't look like this is your problem here though)
calibration
Now... lets talk about that iMac, and color calibration.
Most displays are not calibrated out of the box. The ones that are will cost upwards of $1500 (on the low end) just for the monitor... so what i'm saying is you are almost definitely working on a computer that doesn't have a calibrated display.
That means what you see on the screen will almost never be a close representation of what you will get if you make a print of the photos you're working on.
You actually need a device to calibrate your display, called a colorimeter. The process is pretty simple actually.
You need to set your display at the brightness you prefer working at, and make sure your mac is set to not automatically adjust display brightness because otherwise you'll never be able to realy know what the image's exposure looks like.
Once you've done that, you can run the calibration software process (which is 99% automated and not complex) about once every 2 weeks just to keep things in line.
TL;DR The images you posted to flickr just look as though you need to bump the saturation slider in photoshop/ACR just a bit honestly - but tread lightly. A little goes a long way.
You definitely have a lot of work to do in terms of learning post production and managing colors, but I definitely recommend that you do your best to start by having a calibrated display, and managing your camera's white balance setting - otherwise most of your time spent editing will be for naught.
Viltrox L116T
Mobius dashcam if you want a descreet option
http://www.amazon.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-Sports/dp/B00DP1WYD2
Im sure you can find it a little cheaper if you shop around
You laugh...
I use the yongnuo 560
YONGNUO YN560 IV Wireless Flash Speedlite Master + Slave Flash + Built-in Trigger System for Canon Nikon Pentax Olympus Fujifilm Panasonic Digital Cameras https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00PGTOX26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZEe9BbWQAM1CS
This is highly dependent on your price range, but if you're going to be in it for $500 prizes, I'm going to assume you'd like to spend less than $1000.
In that case, you can't really go wrong with a Canon dSLR, especially the t series, their entry level camera. I think the newest version is the Canon t5i, but the t4i and t3i also shoot high quality 1080p video and you'll be able to find them for cheaper.
The Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera is increasingly popular in that price range, but I wouldn't recommend it to an amateur. It has a fantastic image but a high learning curve.
Nikon dSLR's are great too, but if you invest in Nikon lenses as a videographer, you're going to have a bad time. The majority of video camera bodies are manufactured for Canon mount lenses, so if you ever want to leave Nikon, you're kind of stuck or forced to use lens mount convertors.
With all of these cameras, lenses are arguably more important than the camera itself. With the Canon, the best bang for your buck is going to be a Canon 50mm 1.8. It's a cheap lens, but it has a great image for the price and is great in low light. If you can afford a good 2.8 zoom lens like the 17-55 2.8, go for it, but it's often near $1000.
You definitely want this 35mm 1.8 DX. It's a steal of a lens, and often the only lens I bring with me on my DX bodies.
Sports is the hardest thing to shoot cheaply, especially if it's indoors/at night. VR won't help you there -- it doesn't un-blur moving objects, it only prevents blurring from the camera shaking in your hands. Your best bet is most likely the 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6.
As for bags, I generally shoot out of a random backpack or shoulder bag. You can get a specialized camera bag if you want to, but I've found them to be overkill for me.
you dont want super zooms theres a huge trade off with sharpness vs range.
You have to look for AF-s or AF-p on the lens to see if it has the motor built in to AF. Nikon lenses will also note DX for crop sensors, not to mention the huge price diffrence for FF glass.
and this one doesn't.
Also if you want a complete replacement for the kit lens the Nikkor 18-140 f/3.5 is fantastic. Its our go to walking lens. Will give you more than enough reach IMO for anything short of wildlife shots in normal use. That's what we used for the egg hunts yesterday. I have seen it go for $300 recently but it is usually $500 or so. I can honestly leave it on our body 99% of the time.
The bulk of my IG page is that lens unless noted if you want some real world examples
Firstly, I don't recommend getting a telescope in that price range with photography in mind. You will be sorely disappointed-- to begin getting respectable photographs, it requires several thousand in equipment. There's nothing stopping you from just holding your phone up to the eyepiece and snapping a photo, but the results aren't going to be anything spectacular unless you're willing to spend exorbitant amounts of money.
That being said, the Orion Dobsonians are fantastic telescopes available at that price point. With your budget, you could get the Orion XT8 for $390 and still have some money left over for a Sun filter. It would get you amazing views of the Moon and planets (along with some nebulae and galaxies depending on light pollution).
The T2i is an excellent camera, I bought mine shortly after it was released and I still love it.
The image quality is on par with a 7D or 60D but it's much cheaper. The auto-focus system isn't on par with pro-level cameras and it has a mediocre continuous shooting frame rate, but that shouldn't be a deal breaker. I've used my camera to shoot college sports (baseball and basketball), wildlife, landscapes, portraits, etc. and it has always proved to be a capable camera. If you get it, I would suggest getting a vertical grip and then saving up for some nice glass.
While the kit lens is fairly capable for outdoor shooting, you might eventually consider upgrading it to Tamron's 17-50mm lens or Canon's 17-55mm lens.
It's fucking annoying and stupid.
I have got warned at Warriors games for my 300mm zoom lens and was told to put it away. It certainly is not a "professional lens" but it looks that way to the ushers. Their guideline at Oracle was "a lens longer than 3 inches". WTF?
And, at the open practice for the USMNT at Candlestick I was told I could not bring in that 300mm lens at all and had to take it back to my car. "NFL stadium rules" they said. So far at Buck Shaw it hasn't been an issue. I didn't even try to test the waters at the game at Levi... I brought a smaller 55-200 zoom and they didn't say anything.
A 70-200 is long to someone who doesn't see superteles on a regular basis.
I've had comments like "wow, that's a nice camera" and I've been called "guy with the long lens (it was just a 70-300 with a hood)."
I recommend one of these.
http://www.amazon.com/Orion-SkyQuest-Classic-Dobsonian-Telescope/dp/B001DDW9UW/ref=sr_1_25?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1299640242&sr=1-25
http://www.amazon.com/Orion-SkyScanner-TableTop-Reflector-Telescope/dp/B002MI8RXA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1299640190&sr=8-1
http://www.amazon.com/Orion-SkyQuest-Classic-Dobsonian-Telescope/dp/B001DDW9V6/ref=sr_1_19?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1299640226&sr=1-19
To be entirely honest with you, you should go for a light bucket. If you don't mind paying juuuuust a bit extra, I would go with an 8" Dobsonian. I've read in multiple places that it's the best bang for buck. You should start out, as heptapod said, with just a pair of binoculars and learn the sky. You can find many sky maps online and if you subscribe to Astronomy magazine, they supply you with a good amount. You can find an 8" Dob on Amazon from Orion for $329, which is a great deal. The larger the diameter of the telescope, the more light you'll be able to gather from the cosmos. There's many different things to check out when grabbing a telescope.
Check it: http://www.amazon.com/Orion-SkyQuest-Classic-Dobsonian-Telescope/dp/B001DDW9V6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=photo&qid=1266821888&sr=1-1
Look throughout some guides: http://findascope.com/
and others. I'm saving up for a 12" Dob. I'm also joining the local Astronomy club at the museum (The Neville Museum's Astronomical Society) which isn't a bad idea and you should look into as well. Good luck, and congrats on getting into an amazing field!
This was recommended to me before. Thoughts?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DDW9V6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2PH6H3705OL3F&coliid=I3E0J2WO5X7IGE
I've had mine about 2 months and it's scary to seee how many of these close calls would have been considered my fault.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BV68D_4w_xg
That's my little compilation. $100 is a small investment on your vehicle, it just seems alittle dumb to roll around without one
http://www.amazon.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-Sports/dp/B00DP1WYD2
I use the Mobius because it's discreet.
Currently I use just my iPhone. But, I’ve saved up some money and recently purchased this lapel mic. It should arrive in the mail this week. 😆
I would also recommend getting some kind of cheap boom arm mic stand to hold the camera. This is what I use. I started off with a small tripod stand, but the boom arm was a massive improvement in camera setups without a huge expense.
Good luck to them!!
The Spongeface kits are awesome, and require very little modification on the pack itself, have fun with it and take your time!
As for the battery you want something along the lines of this: https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=talentcell+12v&qid=1562712683&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
And some Barrel plugs to wire it with like these: https://www.amazon.com/43x2pcs-Connectors-Security-Lighting-MILAPEAK/dp/B072BXB2Y8/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=barrel+plug&qid=1562712775&s=gateway&sr=8-4
Also definitely check out GBFans.com! The forums are a really handy place to find info and parts of all kinds for Ghostbusters props of all types.
Aside from the lead-acid battery (which I think is fine, just heavy), there is a pretty long list of crappiness:
For the money, you're WAY better off buying something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1465616058&sr=8-4&keywords=12v+lithium+ion -- that will run your mount for the entire night without breaking a sweat (assuming you don't have to run dew heaters or anything), costs 75% less, and is small and light enough that you could actually velcro it right to the mount.
A camera in the same family would be one of the D7000-series cameras (D7000, D7100, D7200).
> She also wants a zoom lens with larger aperture and VR.
A common (affordable) suggestion for that would be the Sigma 17-50mm f2.8 OS. Good zooms with large apertures tend to be pretty expensive, it might be a good idea to consider a prime or two instead which will be much more affordable.
I have been shooting on Nikon for a while now. The D7000 is a solid camera. Going from my old D80 to the D7000 it was like stepping into the future. The full RGB meter and the 6400 ISO range make for some amazing shots.
Now as for lens that largely depends on your budget.
The 50mm will give you razor sharp images work in low light and is a great lens to learn on. If you ever move to a FX (full frame) camera is will work on there as well. On your crop camera it will be 50mm x 1.5 (crop factor) = 75mm lens. This is a little long for some folks which leads to our next lens.
The 35 is a DX lens (build just for your crop camera so it won't work well on a FX camera) but its a great place to start. This lens is a "normal" lens. Meaning it is close to what your eye sees. Its cheap and has many of the qualities of the 50mm.
I just picked up this Sigma a few days ago from Amazon and I can confirm its sharp as a tack. I honestly like this lens better than the 17-55 Nikon which is 1500 ish dollars. It has optical stabilization and is lighter than the hulking Nikon lens.
I have stayed away from lenses with, in my opinion, crappy f-stops. You can find cheaper lens out there but you will suffer from high f stops like 5.6 which will kill your ability to shoot in low light, and to isolate your subject and have real control over your depth of field. These lenses are great place to start and they will stay in your camera bag for years to come. There are more lenses out there from zooms to telephoto to macro if you give us some idea of what you want to shoot then we can help recommend a more specialized lens. Happy shooting.
You can buy $12 extension tubes, and a $100 50mm 1.8 lens that will take good macro pictures for your Rebel. Those tubes will probably work good with your kit lens, too, if you want to save even more money. Unless you really want a new point and shoot, this would be the route I'd take.
> do you guys think the AW will go any lower than 849.99 (price on microcenter)?
Watch /r/buildapcsales. This monitor gets posted almost weekly. $849.99 is fairly common, but we've seen a few posts in the last month or so where it's gone a little lower. Here's a few recent but expired examples:
I personally think that Black Friday through Cyber Monday will see this thing hit $799 again, possibly $779 for a new record low. Here's hoping!
Dell online will also price match most national retailers and etailers. I got Dell to price match Microcenter since there is no MC near me (I think they sold it online too, but Dell's online returns are as easy as Amazon).
> , but wondering if colorimeters usually go on sale— especially with Black friday coming up
Prices fluctuate, but I haven't noticed any big sales recently. As per my other post, here's the 3 to watch out for and their current Amazon prices.
Checking CCC for the price history on those, here's what I'm seeing.
If you have to buy today, the ColorMunki is the best value when compared to the other options, and compared to historical prices. If you can wait until the holidays, they all should hit some fairly low prices. I'd still recommend the ColorMunki as I feel it's the best consumer home-use colorimeter, but some like to splurge for the i1DisplayPro as it's a better long term option for multi-device calibration due to the better build quality, durability, and faster sensor.
I hear a lot of good things about the sigma 17-50mm f/2.8. It's pretty inexpensive and much better quality.
Yeah, this is what I'm considering too - what's best to learn on.
How do you figure out what is newer - is this the one you mean?
Sigma 17-50 2.8
Tamron 17-50 2.8
These are your standard options for that budget. Both have compromises. I went back and forth, umming and aahing over which to get. The Sigma is good but you can be unlucky on build quality. The Tamron is good but the AF is slow and noisy. The Sigma is sharp between A and B but sucks at C, the Tamron is sharp between X and Y but sucks at Z. And so on and so on. Neither of them will give you the sharpness of the 35mm 1.8 throughout their zoom range.
But the Sigma 18-35 1.8 ART will. It's out of your budget new, but I bought it mint-condition second hand for £400 - so you might find one closer to your budget that way. It is one of Sigma's new 'Global Vision' lenses, which is marketing speak for 'we've pulled our finger out in terms of build quality, sorry about that'. It is astonishingly sharp right across the zoom range, even wide open at 1.8: yes, as sharp if not sharper than the 35mm. The AF is fast, silent, and (in my experience anyway) accurate. It is built like a tank. It has FTMF. It looks the dog's.
The drawbacks are: it doesn't have the reach of a 17-50, obviously. In the end, I decided I didn't care: I used the Nikon 35mm 1.8 almost exclusively for 2 years and didn't really feel the need for a longer lens the entire time. Admittedly I don't take many portraits, but when I do I just shoot 3/4 length. As someone who leans towards landscape photography, I was more interested in the wide end. It's quite big as far as standard zooms go, and quite heavy, but I'm a grown up, I can handle it. The image quality more than makes up for it, and on my D7000 with a grip it actually balances perfectly.
^Yeah, ^I ^went ^there ^dasazz
Very specific personal recommendation that worked really well for me. Use it as a baseline, but there are plenty of options so compare this with other alternatives:
Check Canon's refurbished DSLRs to save some cash. There are usually good deals on those and they're trusted.
Poke around in Lonely Spec for great put together comparing a ton of lens options.
This all should put you around the high end of your budget. You can start everything with just the kit lens, and upgrade lenses when you can identify your limitations
If you're just looking for a timelapse, you can buy an intervalometer off of amazon for pretty cheap for most DSLRs. you may be able to get a cheap dslr for $200 or so with a kit lens off of craigslist, and then buy a decent tripod, intervalometer, and an AC Adapter kit. You could probably get everything for less than $400, easily.
my canon version is this: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Shutter-Release-Remote-Control/dp/B003Q9RERY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1492476395&sr=1-1&keywords=intervalometer+canon
A tripod for sure. Also, an intervelometer will open up more possibilities like remote camera operation (fire and forget) and time lapse.
Wow! You did an excellent job of explaining how DSLR users can easily get into astrophotography. Those are some great example pics too. I like the details like the icons for the equipment needed for subject you are discussing. I agree this should go in the sidebar here.
While following the links you provided I noticed that Gary Seronik, who wrote the howto on the barn door tracker, has posted another simpler design on his blog. I haven't built one yet but it's on the ToDo list.
And wow, that Dark Skies Finder site is amazing. Thanks a bunch for that link. I am thinking of heading to South Dakota to get me some dark skies. Any advice on getting a shot of an aurora? Go further north I suspect.
I'm not sure if you use affiliate links to Amazon but I like that method of supporting a web site. I'm using a $15 knock-off timer/trigger that you might want to link to. It's not fancy but it doesn't need to be.
Also, thanks for posting the Photoshop tutorials in 1080p. Great job. Subscribed!
Thank you! I use a photo booth like this
https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Photography-Studio-Lighting-AGG349/dp/B005CX9S8A/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?keywords=photo+booth&qid=1573929941&sprefix=photo+boo&sr=8-16
And I use a pixel 4xl to take my pictures. Usually the only thing I adjust in my photos is the lighting/contrast to make the background blend in more seamlessly!
I think the sigma 30 f1.4 would be a better choice. ( just my opinion)
Pros
Cons
If you're willing to pump out more money initially and save more in the long run grab a Vive/ Index and mount the basestations on clamp-on camera mounts mounted on support rods. That way you can mount the base stations above your head facing down without compromising your play space unlike tripods.
My current equipment :
Using these, I manage to get these : Album
I want to further my astrophotography, but realize I would need better equipment to better these.
Which of these would be best bang for my buck for a step forward with astrophotography?
I know a good answer to this would be 'everything', but I can't get myself to spend a lot of $$ at this moment. I could spend a few hundred on one of these, and then at a later point re-evaluate.
Thanks for hooking me into this awesome hobby!
I also have a 6000D and I actually loved the 55-250 before this issue I'm having. Everything was crisp and amazing value for the money. Check out these images that were apparently taken with this lens. With cheaper lenses like this, the some of the only things you'll be compromising are the amount of light you'll let in (or the widest available aperture), the focus speed (which was just fine on this one - you won't miss the speed if you haven't owned $1000+ lenses), and some clarity. But rust me, you won't regret buying this lens, you'll find yourself using it more often than the 18-55mm you own. Just so you know, the issue I'm having is likely due to dropping it, so don't worry about that.
for 350 bucks you can get an 8 inch dobsonian (very easy to use and to take with you places.)
http://www.amazon.com/Orion-SkyQuest-Classic-Dobsonian-Telescope/dp/tags-on-product/B001DDW9V6
Get an 8" classic dobsonian from any major manufacturer. I'd recommend this one.
A few reasons:
More questions can be directed to the "beginners" guides over at the side-bar, under "Looking for your first telescope?". A lot of us are biased toward dobs because of the value and ease of use. If you want to go for a tripod refractor, that's fine, but in my opinion you won't get much out of them other than planets, the moon, and some star clusters or globulars. Aperture is cheap for dobs.
If an 8" dob is out of reach in price, get a mini-dob or a good pair of binoculars. Don't get a Walmart telescope, those are garbage.
The Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 is about as best of quality you can get without spending the money on an L lens. It runs for $400 but you can find them going for much cheaper on eBay.
Sample shots
More sample shots
I was in the same boat and went with the Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 and it ended up replacing the 50mm f/1.8. I felt too cramped with the 50 on a crop sensor so I like having a wider option.
The new Canon EF-S 24mm f/2.8 pancake is another interesting option for not a lot of money.
These are the stands and I got these pivoting mounts so I can angle the lighthouses down a bit.
I have a bunch of these cameras. They are cheap, work great, and easy to use.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016F3M7OM/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483729038&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65
I really wanted Nest cams for my house, but at $200 a pop, that's a bit out of my price range. I recently picked up these [Yi Home Cameras] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016F3M7OM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) which are only $40 apiece but have many of the same features. It's a good buy for anyone looking to get a few home security cameras without breaking the bank.
Pick up one of these. It's a set.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And two of those. This is my set up for when I want to bring my vive somewhere, and it works perfectly. No wobble or anything.
Another option that you can use well after baby time, Yi home camera & Yi Dome Camera. It's practically the same as a Nestcam. 2 way audio, wifi and can be used on a cell phone and tablet. OH and it's $40!!!!!!!!! Can't go wrong.
this is the one i'm using: https://www.amazon.com/YI-Wireless-Security-Surveillance-US/dp/B016F3M7OM/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1497453385&sr=1-3&keywords=yi+camera
it can save to an sd card, you can view using their app
Yi cameras are dirt cheap ($39) and work well enough. They can even record locally on SD or you can view on your phone and record direct to your device. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016F3M7OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pm0SybTX1YA4H
Why wait? I got this camera because is live in a state that doesn't require notice for landlord to enter property and I kept finding the maintenance people in my room for "check ups". Works great and not too expensive. Now I love it because I can sneak on my dog at work.
YI Home Camera Wireless IP Security Surveillance System (US Edition) White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016F3M7OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_3ZeEUYNSqcAUg
We got a "security camera" instead of a baby monitor. I found them to be cheaper but better quality on Amazon. The one we got uses an app on our phones instead of a screen piece so I don't have to worry about misplacing it with my mom brain.
Eta: my SO can open the app when he's miles away at work and it works great.
YI Home Camera Wireless IP Security Surveillance System (US Edition) White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016F3M7OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ySbAzb9Z0AHC1
I've been trying out a Yi Home camera. It has a scheduler for motion alerts, selectable areas for motion activation. It has optional cloud recording but it also records to an SD card.
The camera isn't water resistant but it seems like there are a ton of outdoor housings for it. All in I bet you could get it done for well less than $100.
Yi Home Camera
If your apartment has wifi - https://www.amazon.com/YI-Wireless-Security-Surveillance-US/dp/B016F3M7OM/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503943457&sr=1-3&keywords=yi+camera that is $40, get a micro SD too for $14 https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDHC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-032G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q57T02/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503943550&sr=1-4&keywords=32gb+micro+sd+card Then you can get text alerts as soon as they enter the apartment. Then call 911 and tell yourself someone is trespassing in your apartment, then dispatch the police.
Sprinklers, Wasps, Fences, Cameras (mount 'em high) (in the air), Warning Signs, or a Dog
Lapel mics? Also called lavalier mics.
Well I wanted a Manker E03H Nichia but they're not on amazon anymore. :( So I'll take one of the Viltrox panels instead; I know people that do videography and such.
Canon's EF-S 17-55mm F2.8 is a great starter lens. It covers a wide to standard focal range, it's fast, has image stabilization, and by most accounts has image quality and edge to edge sharpness comparable to L-series glass.
Do not listen to the people in this thread who recommend getting a prime as your first and only lens.
Well, there's the Canon 17-55 f/2.8. It's only a little bit wider, but quite a bit faster and a lot better built than the 18-55. It's not cheap though.
Or you could go off-brand and look at either the Sigma 18-50 or the Tamron 17-50
Rent the 17-55 f2.8
He did not have access to a huge telescope :)
That was a 70-300mm lens on his camera, something like this. Most "huge" telescope would not have a big enough field of view to image the whole comet.
http://www.amazon.com/Orion-8945-SkyQuest-Dobsonian-Telescope/dp/B001DDW9V6
This seems to be the starting point for a lot of people. simple to use, lots of room to upgrade, decent sized aperture. It's what I have and it gets my vote
I have a Sigma 17-50 f2.8 for my 700D (T5i) and I really enjoy it for dark/landscape photography. Great for general use too although it's got quite a large diameter so filters can be a bit pricey!
I also bought a cheap, off-brand filter kit to test them out and mainly protect the glass.
Oh man!!! Something like this?! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Q9RERY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YsFxDb33SQZJT
I didn't even realize that was a thing!! Of course it is now that I think about it... I was trying to take pictures of lightning and I literally sat on my porch for an hour taking 15 second exposures manually hoping to get lightning in it. This is super exciting and not crazy expensive. I assume I can use this method also for taking astro shots? Ive been doing it manually for too long... Thanks for the detail!
If you're not comfortable changing the firmware on your camera, an intervalometer like this one is a cheap solution to taking a series of exposures without needing to be near the camera.
The $20 Neewer intervalometer on Amazon is pretty hard to beat. It has several program modes and will work without batteries as a simple wired remote.
Just find the version that has the plug you need.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003Q9RERY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503934437&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=neewer+intervalometer&dpPl=1&dpID=41QMUZcPaLL&ref=plSrch
If you want to do automated HDR, look at a Pluto Trigger. It's pricey at $124 with a cable, but it works via Bluetooth and an app on your phone. 19 different trigger modes and extensible via ports.
https://plutotrigger.com/products/pluto-trigger?variant=26846149447
You need a tool to make sure the colors are accurate for sRGB colors. Something like this. Until you've done that, you can't be sure your screen is actually color accurate.
But as others here have mentioned, I think you're likely running in to a white balance issue. This is why it's good to shoot in RAW, then you can adjust white balance after the fact in Lightroom.
Every LCD panel is different. You need to get a calibrator and calibrate the monitors to be accurate and match.
https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-CMUNDIS-ColorMunki-Display/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491967748&sr=8-2&keywords=colormunki
https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-CMUNDIS-ColorMunki-Display/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503551583&sr=8-1&keywords=colormunki+display
$160. This thing is invaluable imo. Does all the work for you. That said if you want to use my ICC profile on your PC you are more than welcome to. Set your monitor to "Racing" mode and set the brightness to 27.
ICC Profile:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxFMoDVxOkvkYTZEc1lmNDduNW8/view?usp=sharing
How to install ICC Profiles:
http://www.digitalcitizen.life/what-and-how-install-color-profile-your-monitor-windows
(Scroll down to "How to install a color profile in windows")
Run it through the tests here: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/?
If you want something more accurate, get a meter such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-CMUNDIS-ColorMunki-Display/dp/B0055MBQOM
You cannot accurately calibrate a display by eye. Your perception of brightness and color varies depending on what you've been looking at. You can try looking through forums for an ICC profile someone else has generated. But remember, that was generated for THEIR display, not yours. Individual displays vary. That profile will probably get your display closer to correct than the defaults, but there is no guarantee of this.
Bought this set on amazon. Soon realized the light box is completely useless and doesn't give a professional lighting quality. I just use the lights (don't forget to bounce of the light off a white surface) and a table lamp I already own. Paired with my iPhone 6S plus camera, results look very professional and clean. Best of all this set up cost less than $50! I believe two of the LED lights are going for $30 on amazon.
Set up on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005CX9S8A/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Examples
(http://imgur.com/AZ4IQzS)
http://imgur.com/cjeQUfs
http://imgur.com/sbCfOxi
http://imgur.com/PvUI8ig
(http://imgur.com/CicP)
 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CX9S8A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJ94-fHMfAt1yQfGbeMQqOAS7c59mbiYt
 
Knowing the above, these photos aren't really that great, I just used the settings that I already had on. These could be greatly improved if I had taken the time to do so, regardless, I appreciate the compliment! Also even if you don't have a fancy camera and light box I HIGHLY recommend watching that tutorial series on miniature photography, a lot of people around the sub could learn a ton and greatly improve the quality of the pictures they post even with just a simple camera on a smart phone.
If your friend's dad ends up with a Q8 or other light with a tripod socket, you should explore some mounting options for his wheelchair.
Look around at the products labeled 'magic arm mount' or 'articulating camera clamp.' There are many designs. Here's one example on Amazon with dual ballheads to get you started.
Most of them have small knobs that take a bit of force to lock firmly into place, so take that into consideration.
You might also find something with a quick-release that could be left on the Q8. That would make it easier to mount/dismount from the wheelchair.
Be sure your friend buys quality 18650 batteries from a trusted seller!
Cheap but effective. Probably best bang for buck.
http://www.amazon.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-Sports/dp/B00DP1WYD2
This one has great stabilization firmware.
http://www.amazon.com/Action-Video-Camera-Sony-HDR-AS15/dp/B0090EC5MS/ref=pd_sim_e_7
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Replay%20XD/RPXD720CS/
This one is great for motorcycles because of the large sliding on/off switch
http://www.amazon.com/ContourROAM-Waterproof-Hands-free-Camcorder-Watersport/dp/B007W02PRM/
HTH
not bifl but really nice and really small is the mobius action cam. Takes some effort to set it up great image.
http://www.amazon.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-Sports/dp/B00DP1WYD2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412369613&sr=8-1&keywords=mobius+camera
Hey OP, invest in a dash cam. I use the Mobius Ation Cam. Mine is mounted inside the cabin in the middle of the car a foot or so behind my right ear. With this set up it not only shows the front of the vehicle, but it show's what I am doing inside the car. It is a much more realistic view of what I am seeing.
My setup
Head camera - UltraProX adventure cam 10.
Gun cam - Mobius action camera with zoom lens
Selfie Camera - contour roam 2
What i did for my second head camera is remove the ir lens to see full spectrum of the indoor arena. Video of the mod in use
Look into getting a Mobius Action camera. It's about half the weight of a GoPro session. 1080p video or stills. They also have a wide angle lens available too.
https://www.amazon.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-Sports/dp/B00DP1WYD2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503240904&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=mobius+1080p+hd+action+camera&psc=1
I got this one: http://www.amazon.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-Sports/dp/B00DP1WYD2
"Add a fuses" (plugged into power window circuit, which only turns off after door is opened), fished wire over to passenger side where I crimped on a 2 USB port 5V DC/DC adapter (VHB taped behind glovebox, grounded locally to a ground point -- check with a multimeter!), and ran a lengthy USB cable under the plastic trim to the cameras. You should be able to force the wire behind rubber seals along the door frame and up the A pillar. You should also be able to hide the cable in the seam between the rear seats and the flooring/felt.
Tip: If the wire falls out from the crack between the window and plastic trim, wrap a few loops of tape around the wire. Its increased thickness keeps it hidden and not dangling in front of your passenger.
I know this wasn't clear. I can draw a picture if you wish. I also did the same with my GPS, so the singular 12V socket doesn't have a squid of USB cables going all over the car. Note that the suction cups don't stay on well on hot or cold days. I used VHB tape to attach a camera behind my rear view mirror (onto the screen printed sun shade dots no less).
DC-DC converter
Add-A-Fuses (Though look for ones for your specific fuse variety)
VHB tape (used to attach the DC/DC converter; fixes the suctioncups not adhering well)
If you're feeling adventurous, I wanted to try to make a UPS for it using one of these. (For public parking lots / when car isn't on)
Searching around leads me to believe that the lighthouses won't draw much more than 1A@12V, but likely draw closer to 0.5A@12V most of the time. This decently reviewed, 6000mAh@12V battery on Amazon will get you probably about twelve hours of battery life.
I definitely think that sounds reasonable.
I have an s2, I mostly pump at the office too. I’ve seen a hack where you can use Velcro strips and this lithium battery to make the s2 portable - but I haven’t tried that myself. I did buy a car adapter which Ive used once when my mom watched the baby while we went on a date.
The cells are going to be re-wraps of something random. See the Q/A section of https://www.amazon.com/ask/questions/asin/B00ME3ZH7C/5
The original rating is 12000mah, which makes the original cell capacity 2000mah each. It's also listed as 3A mac discharge current. I see no way to tell if that limit is in the controller or the cells themselves.
Also, the cells appear to be in a weird 2p3s layout, but I can't tell by the pictures.
Note - these are likely connected by spot welded metal straps. Getting them separated can be a challenge, and getting new cells in place will require more spot welding or soldering, as I don't see any spring loaded contacts to allow easy replacement.
IMHO, use the power bank as-is. When it stops doing what you want it to do, toss it in a Home Depot or Lowes batery recycling box.
Personally didn't want wires everywhere, so I bought a cheap 12,000mAH 12v/5v USB power brick and velcro'd it to my sunvisor. It powers my dash cam for a whole week before needing charging.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You need some radio triggers. I love the YN RF-603's. Get the 'Canon' model ones, not the Nikons. They do a fantastic job, have decent range, and are way more durable than the cheaper 4-switch "Cowboy Studios" model. I have four of these little gizmos, plus a couple of the YN 560 IIIs and YN-560 IVs, which have built in Rx/Tx for the same spec.
I think YN might also have a new one out for Pentax specifically, but I haven't played with them at all, so... can't really make a recommendation.
And Go read strobist
http://www.amazon.com/YN560-IV-YN-560IV-Speedlite-Panasonic/dp/B00PGTOX26
https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C
edit : or this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H8F5HYJ/ref=emc_b_5_t
this one is quite cool:
12v + 9v + USB outputs... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01337QXMA/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1
I have a couple of computer fans I use on my dob and I use a battery like this:
https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=lithium+battery+pack&qid=1566324764&s=gateway&sr=8-6
And I bought the DC connectors like this:
https://www.cnaweb.com/2-1mm-dc-male-power-connector-lead.aspx?gclid=CjwKCAjwtO7qBRBQEiwAl5WC20VrLjHXGBXkCLMt44xbVpt3Up1zdyBDOrTEufdV_-4oIaX_5QjTaxoCLSoQAvD_BwE
Wired the fan to the connector and it now plugs directly into the battery. I built a splitter with one in connection and 4 out connectors so I can plug multiple fans using only the one battery. The battery lasts several nights, charges easily and is fairly small and portable.
I know using 18650s is trendy (and pretty easy if you use an amp board from Parts Express, they sell battery holders that plug right into the boards) but I’ve been a big fan of using a removable battery pack (with its own safety circuit), like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RNnoDbP0KDB6R
I built a mid sized boombox using these: https://reddit.com/r/diysound/comments/7ph3ck/update_pelican_550_budget_audiophile_boombox/
Using this type of battery makes it easy to swap batteries instead of recharging them inside the unit (I use industrial velcro to keep them secure inside the boombox), and like I said, they already have safety circuits. I like to put an externally visible volt meter on the power switch circuit so you can know how charged your battery is too.
One limitation is you’ll be limited by the amperage of the safety circuitry on the battery configuration you choose. With 18650s you can get a lot more wattage depending on how you configure them, with the battery I suggested you’re limited to 3 amps at 12 volts, so 3 x 12 = 36w total
I have a 5i and it will run all night on this. Plus the plug is correct for the mount. Literally just plug it in and you are set.
TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 6000mAh/5V 12000mAh DC Output Lithium Ion Battery Pack for LED Strip and CCTV Camera, Portable Li-ion Battery Bank with Charger, Black (Multi-led Indicator)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_a-5CDb6VKZY6E
I've had plenty of success with the Windcamp kit. I have yet to run it down completely while doing SOTA, but I don't usually operate for more than an hour. That said, I'm running 5w SSB the whole time.
For more juice, and if I care a little bit less about weight, I'll run the internal rechargeable pack in combination with this lovely little pack. There's also the option of just removing the internal pack in this case, but I like having a "reserve" battery.
At some point, I'd like to have a BioEnno LiFePO4, perhaps 6-9 amp-hours or so. And I'd combine this with some sort of solar charging setup. But for now, the above seems to cover most of my needs.
You can get one that outputs 12v already - something like this: TaletCell
I'd just buy this or something similar.
Here is one of the LED strips that I use. When you open up the packaging hold your breath as you get a nice smell of the factory the thing came out of, and it is depressing. leaving it over night to air out.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ASHQQKI/ref=twister_B07GKRQT3K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The LED track I currently use for the frame
I purchased some good adhesive backed Velcro from Big Box store and cut everything to fit the bike frame for easy install and removal if a light strip goes out.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use this battery pack for the bike frames and the smaller ones they sell for the wheels.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
There are some basic extender clips off amazon for the LEDs that "work" to connect the frame parts together but short of soldering all the extender clips are hit and miss, so find what works for you.
For the wheels you can do one of three things for installing.
1
Buy lots of strong adhesive ( a glue gun doesn't work that well and can melt/boil the glue tape the strips come on) and physically fit a square into a round hole. Glue the strips to the wheel frame so the lights are facing to the center but at an angle of the wheel. While the strips are bendable they are only bendable going up and down not side to side so parts of the strip start to bow-out but those spots can be forced into place with enough adhesive. The strips will start to separate from the wheel frame because physics dictates this can't work. It is what I did first to both wheels. The front side didn't work out but the back wheel has been holding together for the past couple of months.
2
Buy some clear flexible tubing from local box mart and some zip ties. Keep the protective adhesive tape on the LED strip so it can still slide into the tubing and use the zip ties to attach the tubing to the spokes. It will look like shit but it gets the job done. Also cut zip ties are sharp so it kind of turns the wheel into a shitty chainsaw.
3
buy a 3D printer to make clips to hold the LEDs to the spokes.
As for the power supply I temporary have some Velcro holding them to the wheel spokes, that I am trying to fix.
I couldn't find the exact one I had bought but here is one that looks identical from amazon and around the same price. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OB8QDbATX0Z44
Most people use these without issue it seems:
https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=pd_aw_lpo_267_bs_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JS4M0C51KHPDBD7YT0X2
Sure it does... plenty available, though not sure they have this specific model in CA: TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 6000mAh/5V 12000mAh DC Output Lithium Ion Battery Pack for LED Strip and CCTV Camera, Portable Li-ion Battery Bank with Charger, Black (Multi-led Indicator) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rHrVCbXV6V2H3
There's one in the newest line that's $120.
Edit:
http://www.amazon.com/GoPro-CHDHA-301-HERO/dp/B00NIYNUXO
Looks like its $130 actually.
Keep in mind that there are all different price points for the last two lines, so pretty much any amount you are willing to spend there's either a hero3 or hero4. Of course the features get better as you move up.
No, it only shuts off if it's not doing anything. It stays on for filming.
I don't really mind the 5 minute per file limit since most of my videos are short.
Have you seen this one? Only $130.
2 reasons I didn't go with that one are that I like the Cube's magnet mount, and the Cube is more pocket-friendly.
Just so you know, the new GoPro hero is only $129. It's essentially a lighter, WiFi-enabled version of their original GoPro. http://www.amazon.com/GoPro-CHDHA-301-HERO/dp/B00NIYNUXO/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1417198095&sr=1-1&keywords=gopro+hero
What about the basic GoPro Hero? Some limitations, but the price is right.
If it's an indoor location with no windows, you might be hard pressed to get nice images without a flash. The ISO performance on the d5300 isn't fantastic. I would look into possibly getting video lights, or a flash to light your images, you can pick up both from yongnuo pretty cheap.
The best moments to pick up here would be if she had family or friends she's interacting with, you can only take so many pictures of her getting her hair done before it gets boring. Look for laughs and interactions, good luck!
I would highly recommend the Yongnuo external speedlights! You'll also need wireless flash triggers to shoot with your flash off-camera (made for your camera brand) I personally like to shot through a white umbrella for close up portraits. You can find all of this equipment on Amazon :)
Yongnuo Flash: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PGTOX26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_B3jizbSQH5JC7
White Umbrella: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PEX8XE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_K8jizbZE9WMJ8
Flash Adapter for light stand: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TYDBYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_m9jizbNDJBSJ6
Light stand: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K69A0QY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_79jizb8EEAZAT
I can recommend wirelessly flash triggers too! What brand is your camera?
If you can get without TTL there are the yongnuo flashes, I've personally tried the yn560iv and the yn685 with their triggers. As for triggers you should use the YN560-TX. All of these must be the Canon versions (not the nikon ones).
With the trigger you can set your flash(es) parameters from it (without touching the flashes themselves) which is a big advantage once you've set the flashes in place, maybe inside a softbox, etc.
​
Don't buy the yn-622c-tx which, while it works on canon bodies, and it even gives you TTL with the yn685, doesn't even fire the flashes on M43 cameras, at least not on the olympus E-M10 and the Panasonic Gx85.
I've tried all of the above-mentioned yongnuo products on both of these cameras (E-M10 and Gx85), I'll add some amazon links to the products, I hope they can be helpful
​
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PGTOX26/ref=sxts_kp_bs_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=xMKtJ&pf_rd_r=Q1W0BDPWVAHWKBY1N9CE&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00PGTOX26&pd_rd_w=XGvyX&pf_rd_i=yongnuo+yn560+iv&pd_rd_r=1c36158b-ccf3-4d7c-b5e6-2c40cbbb898a&ie=UTF8&qid=1543588353&sr=1
​
https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-YN685-System-Wireless-Speedlite/dp/B0159PJL8C/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1543589021&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=yongnuo+yn685&psc=1
​
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KM1QZRY/ref=sxts_kp_lp_3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=xMKtJ&pf_rd_r=Q1W0BDPWVAHWKBY1N9CE&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00KM1QZRY&pd_rd_w=XGvyX&pf_rd_i=yongnuo+yn560+iv&pd_rd_r=1c36158b-ccf3-4d7c-b5e6-2c40cbbb898a&ie=UTF8&qid=1543588353&sr=3
24 mm f2.8 pancake. It is incredibly tiny, has a decently fast aperture, STM autofocus, and costs $150 with a Tiffen CPL (great for landscape shots) on Amazon. 24mm is a decent intermediate focal length on APS-C; not very wide, but not telephoto either.
 
If you needed a larger aperture there is the fully manual [Samyang/Rokonin 24mm f1.4] (https://www.amazon.com/Samyang-SY24M-C-24mm-Angle-Canon/dp/B007ELSCCQ) for ~$430 and is two stops faster than the 24mm pancake, but you lose autofocus.
 
You could also get a new or used Sigma 17-50mm f2.8. It won't be as sharp as the primes (it is still a top performing zoom) but it is more versatile; having a 17mm f2.8 option could be invaluable for landscapes on an APS-C camera.
 
If you wanted something even wider, Samyang/Rokonin make a 14mm f2.8 and a 16mm f2.0 that are both fully manual lenses. They run about $300 for the 14mm and $350 for the 16mm. Both are bitingly sharp and are perfect for landscapes/astro but might be a bit too wide for portraiture unless you like the wider perspective.
$1000 is more than enough to get a great camera and lens!
Buy this lens on sale now, with its pro features it's the best first lens investment you can make.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003A6NU3U/ref=twister_B0064I7J2E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This body also has lots of pro level features and will be perfect for you to learn on.
http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-D7000-DSLR-Body-Only/dp/B0042X9LC4/ref=sr_1_2?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1451087122&sr=1-2&keywords=nikon+body+only+d7100
I've got the Sigma on my d7100. I think it's great. I've not compared it to the Nikon one. The one I have is - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003A6NU3U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Do you shoot nikon or canon or etc? What camera?
For mac, Sofortbild is pretty cool. For nikons.
http://www.sofortbildapp.com/
If you shoot canon, consider checking out Canon's EOS utility.
Both of these should let you do timelapsing. My cameras have a built in interval timer, so I just used that for convenience.
If you shoot canon, you can also use a remote control unit that acts as the timelapse controller.
http://www.amazon.com/Timer-Remote-Control-RS-60E3-Canon/dp/B003Q9RERY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1323590140&sr=8-2
Hope this helps.
> or buy an intervalometer.
Definitely the best, and relatively cheap, option if one doesn't want to muck around with firmware.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Q9RERY
I use one of these and they work really well:
Neewer LCD Timer Shutter Release Remote Control
Lenses are classed by what they're used for, and at what price. For example, very telephoto/zoomed-in lenses vs wide-angle/zoomed-out lenses. Decent (read: not shitty) quality lenses come in prices ranging from around $300ish to really good ones over $2000. (The exception is the $100 prime 50mm f/1.8).
I actually recommend you to get fairly decent lenses, even if your camera is quite old. Why? Because you can always upgrade your camera in a year or two, and use the same lenses. Canon's been making the same 50mm f/1.8 for 20 years, your lenses will not go out of date anywhere near as fast as the camera would, and can be resold for about the same value if you bought it used. There are some very nice $300 cameras nowadays, such as the T2i deal that's been going on; much better than 10 years ago, where a new dSLR camera might cost a good portion of $1000.
"Beginner lenses" are generally ones that are fairly cheap/budget oriented. Your camera might come with a kit lens, which is a cheap, shitty 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6. It's kind of (but not extremely) wide on the wide end, and kind of (but not very) zoomed in on the telephoto end. It's also not very fast glass, which means it's a lot harder to take pictures in dim light.
People augment the beginner lens in many ways.
These are general gear tips for starting out. (I'm bored at work, my manager is missing today, and I have nothing assigned to code. Hope this helps)
The CHEAPEST WAYS.
You can take cheap Macro photos by taking your lens off the camera flipping it around and taking pictures through the opposite end.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mroth/24097346/
Or get extention tubes foe $14.
http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Extension-Extreme-Close-up-Digital/dp/tags-on-product/B003Y60DZO
That's Macro for someone on a college budget.
Here are some options:
$8 reversal ring
$10 extension tubes, $40 if you want aperture control (I forgot you guys don't have aperture control rings...)
$40 bellows
Summary: With your current lens I'd say the $40 extension tubes are your best bet as they allow aperture control. Getting true macro sizes will be best with the bellows and the reversal ring however you will want a lens with an aperture ring so that you can stop down to extend your depth of field. If you are using a reversal ring it doesn't even have to be a canon lens, just buy a lens that you can thread onto your reversal ring... in fact, here's a really good setup:
$40 bellows + $7 reversing ring + $3 46-52mm or 49-52mm step up ring + $30 55mm takumar = $80
With this setup you can go all the way to 3x life size and have full aperture control. Just be sure to use it on a tripod, (and you'll probably want to light it with a flash) extreme macro shots are tricky!
Another type of photography not mentioned (an one that I enjoy quite a bit) which relies heavily on a tripod is macro photography. These are some example of macro shots I have taken:
Colours
Coffee
Guitar
While a tripod is necessary in low light photography because it requires a longer shutter speed, it is vital to macro photography for that reason also, but a others as well:
But they do have some downfalls. Ones such as these (which I own) do not allow aperture control. You also lose a lot of light when using them, maybe 3 stops or so. Hence the need for longer shutter speeds.
I am going to try some light painting shots over the weekend when I have more time. I shall post my results.
The Canon 50mm 1.8 STM. Surprisingly sharp for the $100 I paid for it!
I'm using it with these extension tubes.
A macro tube lens is usually a series of adapters that will fit onto your lens that gives some extra space between the sensor/mirror and the inside glass of the lens (closest to your body.)
For example, shooting with my 18-135 IS II lens, I have a minimal focusing distance of 1.5 feet. So even when I have it zoomed out to 135 mm, I wont be close enough to get truly macro shots of my watches. You can see in my 500px profile some shots taken with a variety of lenses, but none of them would be considered macro shots.
I bought a Fotodiox macro tube off of Amazon that has three individual extenders and connectors for both lens and body sides of the extender. You can mix and match these tubes for a desired effect, but what it ultimately allowed me to do was focus very closely on my subject, and the far end of the lens was only about three inches from the face/backs of the watches.
Some tips/warnings:
Anyway, I hope these tips provide another cheaper option for those of you who want to take closeup shots of movements and watch details, but don't want to spend the money on a dedicated macro lens.
For further information, this youtube video demonstrates a lot of the same points I made above, and demonstrates the capabilities. NOTE: The tubes That Nikon Guy uses in this video are for Nikon, and are of a much higher quality, electronic pass through variety, at least I think so based on his comments.
Enjoy!
This goes for any camera, but a Giottos Rocket Air Blower or similar, and a microfiber cloth (don't use a dry cloth on lenses though, if you can avoid it).
If you're into macro-on-the-cheap, you can get a set of extension tubes, but I wouldn't consider them a must-have unless that's your thing.
Since OP is asking for lightened up advice... how about tricking out your lens cap with some gems, or stickers? Also, if you do sell your lenses like you mentioned in your edit, you could put a pin-hole in the middle of your lens cap and take photos that will show these accessory haters! Just make sure you don't hurt any of the gems when you drill the hole.
On a more serious note, you could check out extension tubes like this one to play around with macros.
You can adjust white balance to 6500 or rmaybe just buy a ColorMunki and download displaycal to try and calibrate the LG to whatever the Gateway is at.
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https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-ColorMunki-CMUNDIS-Accuracy-Calibration/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=colormunki&qid=1561949413&s=gateway&sr=8-1
The cheapest probe that starts pushing into pro territory is the X-Rite i1 Display Pro and they get much more expensive from there. Though without a 3D LUT box and the accompanying calibration software, your corrections won't be perfect.
Xrite makes a more budget model called the ColorMunki. There's also a line called Spyder but the xrites tend to be much better quality for about the same price.
dispcalGUI is actually a really solid open source piece of CMS software with very good color math behind it. It may be more fickle than Light Illusions, but it's a great option for those on a budget.
All this, however, is a moot point if your monitor isn't any good as you'll quickly hit the limits of most displays. Additionally, expect to calibrate frequently (once a month or so) as displays do drift - even those ones that come "factory calibrated" (looking at you Dell). Here is a decent introduction on what makes up a decent display.
I assume you mean the ColorMunki Display and not the Smile?
Get yourself a portable photo booth with lights. They are $40 on Amazon and will dramatically change the look of your photos https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Photography-Studio-Lighting-AGG349/dp/B005CX9S8A?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_3092063011
I was planning to, but decided to just buy one on amazon :P
This is the one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CX9S8A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's honestly a little small for 1/100s, but for 1/144s it works great. I may get a bigger version of this later on!
Hey me too! Just bought it recently https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CX9S8A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lighting is a huge part of it! Here's the lightbox kit I bought. It comes with two lights- they're not super strong, but again, they work just fine for my purposes and I've been perfectly happy with it. You may want to scale up to a larger size if you do bigger pieces on a regular basis... When I periodically have a larger thing (like the Mr. Coffee machine) I just say "screw it" and take lower quality pictures, or I set it up on a giant white piece of tagboard in natural lighting (during the middle of the day) so I can get a few shots.
>just do the dinner at night
So no sunlight. Only overhead lighting, which will cast shadows over eye sockets, nose/mouth, etc (directional lighting, straight down). People won't look very nice and if they're walking/dancing, you'll have a hard time keeping the images blur or noise-free.
If anything, get a flash and bounce it off of ceiling/walls. I think that's your only hope. You can get a Yongnuo YN560 IV for $69.00.
Great! Do note that you'll need to buy ball joint tops like these to allow for downward-facing Lighthouses!
I'm still using the super cheap suggestion. Working fine since April 5th when I got the vive. Two homes, one workplace, one convention center (next to walls because bass from concerts shaking the floor), one outdoors area under a gazeebo (against a support beam because wind).
$22 for 2 tripods:
http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4
$5 each for a mount you can swivel (buy two):
http://www.amazon.com/EXMAX-Tripod-Camera-Camcorder-Bracket/dp/B012FTXOW4
You also need something like these so that you can angle the lighthouses.
But to answer your question, no. You don't need anything else. But the lighthouses would be parallel to the floor, which can lead to bad tracking.
If you want portable this combination would probably work really well for you.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4
Combined with:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4
I really like these, Valve linked them in the Vive Dev Kit's manual. Just use a clamp mount in combination with them. http://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Support-System--144-Inches-3HAND5/dp/B000067S12
The only downside with those is the ceiling height limitation. They're also more expensive.
Recommend light tripods (as in tripods for lights for photography) for the base stations. Plus mounts to rotate them for each.
Like this
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Photography-Relfectors-Softboxes-Backgrounds/dp/B00K69A0QY?keywords=photography+light+tripod&qid=1537408011&sr=8-1&ref=mp_s_a_1_1
And this
https://www.amazon.com/EXMAX-Aluminum-Rotating-Lighter-Camcorder/dp/B012FTXOW4?keywords=rotating+camera+mount+tripod&qid=1537408217&sr=8-2&ref=mp_s_a_1_2
Don’t have these exact products so I can’t vouch for them.
Oh and you may want to consider some cleaning wipes and maybe disposable VR covers. Sweaty headset is gross.
light stands are generally cheaper as well :)
I got these ones:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M8SLI8U
with pair of these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4
Go to amazon and search "Yi Home Camera". Buy it for $40 and place it directly in front of the door. It plugs in to your wall, connects to wifi, and has a app for your phone so you can see live time or in the past. 720p HD quality. You can also set up motion alerts to send directly to your phone. Best investment I have ever made!
Edit for camera link: https://www.amazon.com/YI-Camera-Security-Detection-Monitor/dp/B016F3M7OM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510676310&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=yi+home+camera&psc=1
I totally agree with you on the risk and weighing that against the benefits. I was just referring to all the negative reviews on the Amazon product page. But again, I was more or less asking for opinions on whether its a legit concern. As you stated in your response, it seems its a necessary evil.
https://www.amazon.com/YI-Wireless-Security-Surveillance-US/product-reviews/B016F3M7OM
Has considerado microfonos de clip como este o este otro?
En general es cierto que los audifonos "gamer" son pesimos en su calidad de sonido y te conviene mucho mas comprar un audifono dedicado y un microfono aparte (sea el de una webcam, uno de clip, etc).
Hace tiempo que no reviso como esta el mercado de audifonos en Chile y no se que haya bueno en este momento, pero te recomiendo que revises por Mediaplayer o ve si hay algo decente en el [cyber monday de audiomusica] (http://cybermonday.audiomusica.com/#/category/audifonos-monitoreo). Por ejemplo, aun estando en oferta en Amazon, los sennheiser HD600 te salen como 280 lucas (impuesto + envio) y ahora en audiomusica tan a 245. Algo es algo. Yo tengo los HD600 y los recomiendo por completo, pero se que es un lujo gastar sobre 100 lucas en audifonos (y mas 200)
En general te sugiero que intentes buscar audifonos abiertos circumaurales. El posicionamiento de los sonidos mejora harto y eso ayuda en muchos juegos que aprovechen bien los canales de audio y el rango dinamico. No obstante, creo que casi cualquier audifono de marca reconocida tipo beyerdynamic, sennheiser, grado, etc le ganan si o si a cualquier audifono "gamer".
Lo ultimo que puedo decir es que averigues bien sobre que tipo de sonido buscas, y aparte de los juegos consideres que generos de musica escuchas. Hay gente que le gustan mas detalles en los graves, otros que sean neutros, algunos los prefieren con boost en graves y agudos, y asi. Puede que yo considere cierto tipo de sonido como "el mejor" pero tu los encuentres horribles. Recomiendo que te informes en lugares de reviews e idealmente pruebes algunos modelos (como en mediaplayer que te dejan probar casi todo) para tener una "referencia" a futuro.
https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Microphone-Omnidirectional-Recording-Conference/dp/B01AG56HYQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1502257714&sr=1-3&keywords=lapel+mic There's a great cheaper lapel mic.
Not at all!
We currently use:
3x Logitech C922x Pro Webcams
7x 3.5mm Lapel Mics
7x 3.5mm to 1/4in adapters
2x Mini Audio Mixers
1x USB-to-1/4in Cable
1x 1/4in to 1/4oin cable
For video, we just use the webcams like normal.
For audio, we daisy chain the two mixers with the 1/4in cable, and plugin each mic to their adapters and into the mixers. Use the 1/4in to usb cable to capture the audio out of the last mixer, and now you have a dial for each audio line, but only one audio input device to your PC.
It's not the best solution, but it is way less expensive than buying the hardware video encoding and digital audio mixers would have cost (by factors of 10).
Get some fill light dog.
There’s a chance that a 4x 18650 light like a BLF Q8 would have enough power, but that’s a hell of a runtime. It also may leave weird beam artifacts on the target (unless pure flooders or miles, flashlights don’t generally illuminate very evenly at short distances.) I don’t know how you’re transporting it, and you might want to prop a piece of steel in front of it, but I’d go for a deep-cycle 12v lead-acid battery with an LED light coupled to it. Depending on how close you can get to the target, a Viltrox panel light would illuminate it beautifully.
You should really get a prime lens if you're a beginner. I thought it would be a hindrance if anything, but the lack of zoom makes you WAY more conscious of your shot composition. The most recommended lens after the kit one is the "nifty fifty" a 50mm f/1.8 prime. Mine is a canon FD, I bought it off ebay along with an FD to EF adapter, cost ~80 bucks total (the EF-S version is only like 120 bucks either way).
If it's really burning a hole in your pocket, I'd go with audio and lighting equipment first, and then either a 24-70 or a 17-55
Your current camera is a crop sensor, how about the [EF-S 17-55 f2.8] (https://smile.amazon.com/Canon-EF-S-17-55mm-Lens-Cameras/dp/B000EW8074/)? It covers virtually the same range (27-88) as the 24-70, but for a crop sensor camera. It even has image stabilization. I hear you say something like "But if I get the EF 24-70, I can use it when I get a full frame" and you're totally right. But if you get the 17-55 used, you can re-sell it when you're done for about the same price you paid for it. Even better, it is half the price of the 24-70.
Don't get me wrong, I <3 my EF 24-70 f2.8L II and it is what I have on my camera virtually all the time. It is a fantastic lens. Nothing wrong with going that route! Just realize its like a 38-112 on crop. Not a big deal if you weren't looking for a zoom that goes wide.
It's not though. The Canon EF-S 17-55mm is far better than the Canon EF 28-135.
I can't really recommend the DX 55-300 either, especially for wildlife photography. I find the focusing to be highly inaccurate and slow, and that's with stationary subjects. It's most noticeable at the the 300mm end of the lens. Anything moving (like wildlife) is going to be really difficult to get in focus. The manual focus ring is also very touchy, which is something to consider if you'll be using it often. I still keep mine around for that odd graduation or other event where I need the extra reach, but most of the time it sits on my shelf collecting dust. That being said, I've heard good things about the Nikon 70-300mm. The AF is faster, and it's compatible on FF cameras. You also get the same aperture range as the 55-300mm. This is the lens I wish I picked up instead of my 55-300mm. Make sure you pick up the AF-S version I've linked if you have a camera in the D3000-5000 like I do. Those ranges don't have built in focusing motors and thus you need an AF-S lens. If you have a D7000 and up though, you can save yourself a bit of money and buy the older version of the lens. You forgo VR and a few other things, but save yourself $350. Good luck!
So i'm in the exact same boat as you, i'm not a pro by any means and i love my D7000. My only gripe is they software limit of 3 frame bracketing, it bugs the crap out of me. However, i'm sure my next upgrade will be a FX body so i have tried to balance which lenses i buy. I would recommend looking on craigslist for some used fast glass. You have to be carefull but you can find someone decent every once and awhile.
This depends on your budget but these are the lenses i own currently and they seem to cover most of my needs.
50 1.8 AF-S FX - A must have i would say, super sharp a great lenses but can be a little tight indoors due to the crop factor
Nikon 70-300 FX - I really like this lens. I think it focuses faster than the 55-200 my girlfriend has and i find it to be fairly sharp. The only downside is that it not fast glass, so gett a 70-200 2.8 if you want top of the line and are willing to spend $1500 more.
Nikon 28-70 Fx 2.8 - This is the older version of the 24-70 2.8 and i picked it up used off of craigslist. This has been my GO TO lens. Its a little heavy but i have used it as a walk around. I will say the only downside is the 28 is not very wide on a dx body and you can really tell the difference between it and the 18mm kit lens.
I have a range of DX lenses as well but my girlfriend usually uses those on her d90 and i wouldn't recommend them if you have the budget and know that you will upgrade to FX at a later date. I would almost recommend buying a used kits lens off of craigslist, a 18-55 usually runs $100 bucks or so. The reason being that its hard and expensive to find FX glass below 24. There is the 14-24 but that will set you back. The 18mm on a kit lense will give you that wide side for when you need it for super cheap and decent sharpness.
GL
It appears this model, used, is around 300 dollars. If you sell the 18-105mm, as well as the third lens, she can probably keep the macro lens, and not need to spend much to get the 70-300mm. Again, granted she doesn't need the wider prespective in that she loses by not using the 28-300mm. 28-70mm is a very common range, and valuable if she does any shooting indoors. She will find herself with her back up against the wall shooting with a minimum focal length of 70mm.
Honestly, that lens is not worth it, because it's a very awkward lens for most things on a 1.6x crop body, such as the 60D. 300mm on a 60d is the equivilent to >450mm on a full frame sensor, and is not really necessary. Even if it was nicer glass, it's just not a lens I'd want to own as one of my first lenses.
If you wanted a cheap lens, it's not the one I'd buy -- The "Nifty Fifty" -- http://www.amazon.com/Canon-50mm-1-8-Camera-Lens/dp/B00007E7JU is even cheaper, and I'd prefer it. As I'd also prefer the Canon 40mm fixed lens.
If you want a telephoto lens, the kit lens Canon 55-250 is a much better buy, http://www.amazon.com/Canon-55-250mm-4-0-5-6-Telephoto-Digital/dp/B0011NVMO8 and can be found MUCH cheaper used, because it's practically given away in many kits. Amazon has their refurbished price as within $30 of each other.
Yes, that would be a good start. Although the price is a little suspect. You can buy this from Amazon.com:
So $88 for New Vs. Used, plus maybe better warranty on the new stuff? Interestingly the bundle cost more on Amazon than buying the two separately.
PS - As a completely random note: When shopping look out for two "tricks:"
Check slickdeals.net, that is how I got mine.
Right now, if you buy the T2i from amazon with the 55-250mm IS, you get $200 off instantly (so the lens is almost free). Plus, if you buy a Pixma Pro9000 mkII with the camera, you can get a $400 AMEX card by mail. I did this and just sold the printer on CL for $250. I did a slightly different deal through newegg, but when it was all said and done, I ended up paying $420 for a T2i.
Also it is only $349 with Amazon Prime: http://www.amazon.com/Orion-8945-SkyQuest-Dobsonian-Telescope/dp/B001DDW9V6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1394664803&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=xt8
EDIT: Not Prime, but still free shipping.
Did you read the note at the top? (https://www.reddit.com/r/telescopes/comments/2f0goy/for_anyone_posting_what_telescope_should_i_get/)
Personal opinion: in this range you should be able to find an 8" Dobsonian telescope like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Orion-8945-SkyQuest-Dobsonian-Telescope/dp/B001DDW9V6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464104931&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=dobsonian+telescope
It comes with a couple basic eyepieces. And maybe a gift membership to a local astronomy club. Where are you located?
https://www.amazon.com/Orion-8945-SkyQuest-Dobsonian-Telescope/dp/B001DDW9V6
I've owned about a dozen telescopes and the best beginner telescope is by far the Orion skyquest, 8 inch. You can find them used on craigslist for half the price. https://www.amazon.com/Orion-8945-SkyQuest-Dobsonian-Telescope/dp/B001DDW9V6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491667181&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=orion+skyquest+xt8
Is this that model?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Orion-8945-SkyQuest-Dobsonian-Telescope/dp/B001DDW9V6
Hello & this :-)
The 5" table tops are neat entry level telescopes that already show a lot. Especially the AWB Onesky is very portable due to it's collapsible design. It has a few quirks, but nothing that can't be dealt with. The Mini 130 and z130 have contrast benefits due to the closed tube and secondary mirror holder.
There's also the xt4.5, at least for it's "2nd"/used/refurbished price (link) it's an alternative (a bit less aperture but benefits due to the aperture ratio -> smaller obstruction, easier to reach higher magnification, not as low to the ground...).
For $300-$305 you can get a 6" dobsonian, which has less compromises (the long focal length results in a "relaxed" aperture ratio of f/8 -> smaller obstruction, no visible coma, easier to make good mirrrors). The XT6 was available as refurbished/used/"2nd" for $225 once in a while.
I just checked Amazon, and while it's recommended to buy from a telescope store, there are some warehouse-deals (shipping returns, used returns...).
Sky-Watcher 8" for $266!
xt8 for $350
6" for $230!
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4
It depends on the size you had in mind (4). See the Size links.
3
A dobsonian will be the more sturdy choice. Most sets in this price-range are on a mount/tripod that's a bit too weak, as the next more rigid one would increase the set's price drastically. Focusing and tracking can be tedious.
2
What to expect in different telescope aperture sizes
5
The 8" is the best bang for the buck. Under dark skies, it can show the spiral structure of galaxies and details in nebulae otherwise invisible in smaller telescope. It somewhat fits into the average car (back-seat...) and can be carried by one person short-distance.
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> eyepieces
Most telescopes come with very basic accessories. One or two eyepieces would help him get the most out of his telescope. The choice of eyepieces strongly depends on the telescope you choose. Don't get an eyepiece kit (overpriced, mediocre at best).
For the 130mm table-tops, a 3.2 or 4mm HR Planetary ($35 china, $50 US) or at least a "Barlow" that doubles magnification is required to observe the planets due to the telescope's short focal length.
For the 6" or 8" dobsonian a 6mm "gold-line" is nice and cheap ($18 Aliexpress, $25 ebay, $35 @ Amazon, e.g. "gosky").
130mm telescope and magnification
130mm and maximum magnification, barlows
6" dobsonian vs 5" dobsonian
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A telescope can be a great gift, but it's also difficult to meet the expectations of someone else. A visit to an astronomy club or stargazing party is always a good idea - before buying anything ;-) Perhaps as gift with a "1 telescope" coupon ;-)
Does he have binoculars by the way?
Clear skies!
Thanks!
Was shot on a Canon EOS Rebel T6 body, using a Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 EX lens : )
Mon 18-55 kit de chez Canon ne me semble pas si super que ça... je me tate de le changer pour pouvoir faire des photos correctes. Pour ceux qui s'y connaissent, est-ce que le Sigma 17-50 est bon (ont dirait bien que oui) ou alors il ne vaut mieux pas prendre un sigma 18-200 pour plus de versatilité - même s'il est plus sombre et risque d'etre moins bon en piqué... et j'ai déjà un 55-250 (en plus du 50mm f1.8)
J'ai surtout pas envie d'acheter un objo pour acheter un objo, mais je veux une galette pour faire des photos de qualité quand même, donc j'ai vraiment envi de savoir si ça peut valoir le coup
I am a little bit biased because it is what I shoot on, but a Pentax either with built-in Astrotracer (K3ii) or with the extra Astrotracer equipment would be my recommendation if you aren't ready or willing to invest in something like an equatorial mount for your tripod. This is the body I shoot on, a little bit more expensive than the body you are looking at but for astro, I think it is well worth the extra investment.
As for lens, anything with a wide aperture (2.8f at least) and a wide angle lens. I pretty much haven't taken my Sigma 17-50mm off of my camera in a year or two. For a small preview, this body/lens setup is what I used to get this shot at the top of Loveland Pass in Colorado.
I use this one and it's fantastic: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DP1WYD2
Edit: Sorry, I was using my phone: http://www.amazon.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-Sports/dp/B00DP1WYD2
I have pins, key fobs, alarm clocks, clothes hooks, shades, and more.
In the end they all suck. In the end I use a Mobius. You will need a sd card but there are plenty of settings if you connect to a computer to help you setup. I belive even a motion capture. They are 1080p and are durable. When I am not needing it in the home I use it on another profile(you can have up to 3) as a dash cam(mount and plug needed) they are about the size of a deck of cards but I still feel can be hidden from site. Sorry it's family screwing you. If you come up with better be sure to post.
Edit: to correct size of product
Mobius Action Camera 1080P HD Mini Sports Cam - Standard Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DP1WYD2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_lM.CwbEZZSJ1P
Sony A6000 + the 18-105 F4 for general photography, this should be a good start and will get her a quality lens that will get her plenty of reach. This should be right around $1100ish
down the road she can add these options:
add the 35 f1.8 for great portrait photos with better background separation. Alternatively you can start her with this lens first, being smaller and lighter means she will be more likely carry it around with her.
add the 16 2.8 for hiking thanks to the compact size and theme parks, or just anywhere she needs it in a more compact size.
more size comparisons
I've been lusting over the A7s, it is the low light king. Not at all in your budget though. The D3200 probably isn't the best as it has troubles focusing in low light. The kit lens is a definite no no as it doesn't do well in low light. If you go DSLR go at least d5200 for $500 paired with the 35mm f/1.8 lens for $200. A refurbished d5300 can be found for $600 and would also be a great choice paired with that 35mm.
The Sony a6000 ($450 for body $600 for kit) is making a lot of noise in the mirrorless format at that pricepoint and can be paired with the 35mm f/1.8 at $400 for a total of $850, just above your budget.
On a crop you're looking for a 35mm. https://www.amazon.com/Sony-SEL35F18-35mm-Prime-Fixed/dp/B0096W1P5W
The 50 is much cheaper, but may be too tight. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DLMD5O6/ref=psdc_173565_t1_B0096W1P5W
You can get these poles, which are 15$/pop, and just as good, but a little bit shorter.
I also recommend this style of camera mount instead of the solid mount you recommend. Affords you a little bit more flexibility in mounting, these cost quite a bit more, but are way more solid/flexible.
But yeah, these extendable poles are amazing. Super cheap, portable, real easy to use. Plus, chances are you have a local harbor freight, so you can get em faster if you really want to.
Smallrig® Cool Ballhead Arm V4... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00DJ5XH4O?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I grabbed a few of these. They are modular so you can add more pieces. Basically means we can mount the camera wherever needed and then when done use it for my own camera setups. A bit less elegant but in all about buying stuff that will have a use once it's not needed for baby stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CRDD6Y/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DJ5XH4O/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Not sure if money is an issue but if you have some extra cash buy these and put them in opposite corners. These are amazing.
Also in college and I'm using these clamps with these poles. Works really nicely and I can move my setup between my home and college during breaks really easily.
I bought these adjustable support poles and these clamp mounts to hold the lighthouses to the support poles. Works great and this is how it looks (sorry for terrible picture, but its all I currently have available to me at the moment.)
I use these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ5XH4O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Mounted on these without the trays installed
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014X7ARI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Just set them up in each corner of my play area easy to take down if needed.
If weight is a possible issue for your build, look at getting the Mobius. Much lighter platform for recording.
I've never used them, but I've seen videos from people who use them. It's definitely 1080p, but I don't know more beyond that. It does take pictures.
Here is a link to the camera
Here is a rail mount for it
Here is the PEQ Mount for it
Here is the cap for the PEQ Mount, which is sold separately.
You'll have to work out mounting but check out the mobius action cam.
http://www.amazon.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-Sports/dp/B00DP1WYD2/ref=sr_1_34?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1411926605&amp;sr=1-34&amp;keywords=action+cam
Price is great, I've used them and the video is acceptable. Nobody will confuse your footage for a RED camera or anything but they work well in both low and direct light. Somebody does make a waterproof case for them of you're interested.
>Use it as a Driving Recorder; with the Magnet Mount and car adapter (Pro Package), the Mobius makes an effective dash cam. Camera can be configured that, as soon as the Mobius is plugged into the car power adapter it will start recording, no need to press record. With the Mobius’ video quality and wide angle view, you can read any license plate on the road with ease. Loop Recording mode is a very helpful feature, you no longer need to worry if you have enough memory!
If you have the money consider getting the sony 35/1.8:
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-SEL35F18-35mm-Prime-Fixed/dp/B0096W1P5W/
Maybe get it used if that's too much $$$.
With the crop factor it'll take the place of a "nifty-fifty" and is plenty fast enough to get good subject isolation. It's also stabilized so it'll help take pictures in lower light.
I'm also going to make an assumption that you're using the kit zoom and if that's so then a fixed lens will probably make you more comfortable coming from using your iphone and force you to process what you're doing more. The 35/1.8 is also significantly sharper than the kit.
Aside from that, setup your auto iso and you'll be able to just shoot in aperture priority pretty easily. If I remember correctly then you should be able to push up to iso 6400 with the a6000 and still be alright as far as noise goes.
I'm not sure about the specific feature set of those two cameras, but judging strictly by the low light performance, the Sony has an advantage of about 1 and 1/3 stops. This would be offset by the rather slow kit lens, as /u/iserane pointed out. A fast prime lens would cost you between 200 and 400$ (for example, this 35mm f1.8). It also gets a bit bulkier with those fast lenses.
I have an a6000, too. (You can see it in the pics). Absoutely amazing camera. I'd recommend the APS-C 35mm f/1.8 prime for the a6000. Incredibly sharp lens. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0096W1P5W/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457206508&amp;sr=1&amp;keywords=35mm+f+1.8+sony
Sony SEL35F18 35mm f/1.8 Prime Fixed Lens https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0096W1P5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NVsbzbX73A12F This? Just want to clarify.
Sony does have new smaller lenses such as the 35mm prime and the 20mm wide angle which are tiny. There are also the two Sigma equivalents that are just about equal or better in quality but they are a tad larger but still not nearly as large as traditional DSLR lenses.
I can wait and if it seems like it's worth it I can probably stretch my budget out a little. I didn't actually realise the A6000 was almost 2 years old! (Feb 12 2014)
Is this the lens you mean?
Thanks for the advice!
Chances are you'll want to angle them down for optimal coverage. You can mount them directly into concrete/brick. Just drill with a masonry bit and use anchors.
However, as another user pointed out if you are putting up shelves and they are wood you could just attach the mounting bracket right to the shelving or purchase a clamp mount like this, this or this. The bolt size is a 1/4 20 which is the standard for consumer cameras tripod mounts so you can find tons of mounting options out there.
If you search a bit you can find tons of mounting alternative threads like this.
Tripods or building support systems (combined with a clamp) seem to be the common solution to prevent drilling.
I've also mounted one of my base stations on top of a bookshelf using duct tape and this also works perfectly, though you'll need a shelf in the neighbourhood of your play area in order to be able to do this.
I wouldn't risk just taping them to a wall though. I've been contemplating to use a combination of industrial two-sided tape and nails (much thinner than a screw and it thus makes only very small holes in the wall) but decided to drill in the end, just to be safe.
I believe that most people drill them into the wall. You can use the mounts they come with for that and it's probably the closest thing to the 'official' way. That's just a case of put mounts on wall in appropriate place, make markings on holes, drill the holes and put in provided (or other) wall plugs, screw the mount on. Other people put them on tripod-like stands.
I've seen people put them on shelves/etc but in theory I believe they're supposed to be tilted down slightly which could be an issue on a cupboard. You could buy clamps if you've anything to clamp them on.
You could potentially mount them on a heavy L shaped piece of wood or something like that if that would go on top of a wardrobe or the like.
Lighthouses do vibrate slightly, so whatever method you use, it should be secure.
I got one of each to give myself some flexibility, both have worked great so far.
Smallrig® Cool Ballhead Arm V4
Smallrig® Clamp Mount V1
If you want the camera to just see whatever product, and arms/hands, it will need to be as close to directly overhead as possible.
But since you only have one tripod at the moment, I might suggest trying to place the camera as directly over your daughters head as possible. Have her sit, and then position the tripod legs so that the camera can be just above and as much out in front of your daughters head as possible, so that she will basically be sitting under the tripod.
Please secure the tripod, because I was 15 once and the thing might probably get knocked over at one point.
A better solution for this particular angle you mention would be to get two stands and a crossbar, such as those made for holding photographic backgrounds.
Add to that a clamp with 1/4-20 mounting screw and you can safely attach the camera to the crossbar, have it overhead, and not worry so much about things being knocked over. This also get the camera out of the way should you want to setup a second camera for shooting a different angle.
Clamp: https://www.amazon.com/SmallRig-Ballhead-Multi-function-Adapter-Ronin-M/dp/B00DJ5XH4O/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540209251&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=camera+mount+clamp&amp;psc=1
There are better and worse options, and since I don't know which camera you have at the moment, here is a generic type of mount that could work for the situation.
The background stand:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072BCNRTY/ref=sxts_kp_bs_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&amp;pd_rd_wg=E8goB&amp;pf_rd_r=JDNSYA2WH7VPFQXK5NWX&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&amp;pf_rd_t=301&amp;pd_rd_i=B072BCNRTY&amp;pd_rd_w=ydei2&amp;pf_rd_i=photo+background+stand&amp;pd_rd_r=78d3d95b-dba0-4370-b6ec-4ba5c7cac38b&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540209393&amp;sr=1
This is something cheap that would get the job done, and with the clamp would allow you to position the camera over the table.
However, if the camera is larger than a basic mirrorless a6300, another solution might be in order.
Here is an overhead tripod that might support a bit more weight if you had a full size DSLR:
https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Magnesium-Aluminium-Overhead-Professional/dp/B073ZC46SL/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540209508&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=overhead+camera+tripod
The problem being it doesn't allow for great positioning, just like your current tripod.
Hope these ideas help.
Why not use the screw? There's tons of clamps with 1/4"-20 thread that are meant to put lights and such onto various types of poles for film and such. I use them myself to mount my light houses onto vertical braces from harbor freight. (They have a smaller footprint than a light stand or tripod.)
Here's some examples of the ones I'm using.
Pedco 1.5 Ultra Clamp
This will grip even onto a very thin pole. For the record I mount them to these poles. Harbor Freight 2 in 1 Ratcheting Cargo Bar
Here's some other excellent multi purpose clamps but they need a ticker pole to mount.
Limostudios Super Clamp It's a clone of the more expensive manfrotto super clamp. They fit on the blue portion of the brace, not the thinner silver extended portion.
These clamps are pretty universal and you can get a number of different attachments for them. You could screw the lighthouse right on there but you couldn't really aim it without a ball mount or you could get an arm like this or this though that second one might wobble with the lighthouse motor. Arkon makes a good very sturdy clamp I've used to mount camcorders on for years though I've broken lots of the quick mounting plates over time. The arm is much stronger than the superclamp arm I showed earlier. There's also small clamps like this one
Also for the thread as someone else mentioned there are adapters. This is likely the adapter you need as that's the other common screw size you see. but I can't really know without seeing the tripod. Personally I prefer to use clamps and mount to poles anyhow, it gives you a lot of mounting options.
Buy a clamp like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ5XH4O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1.
Then buy a D-tap cable like this to power the monitor with the Ronin (or use a battery): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D0HPTRO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1.
Have you though about trying something like this? I've been using these for a few months now with very good tracking results. I like the small footprint and adjustability/mobility that they allow, without having to put holes in my apartment walls. They do cost a little more than some other mounting options, but I think they're worth every penny.
http://imgur.com/a/rUyBN
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ5XH4O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067S12/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Using these tripod mounts you could get away with mounting one on that fire sprinkler pole.
For those who would rather just throw money at the problem, here are products you can buy from Amazon to get to a similar setup without having to DIY anything:
FastCap 3rd Hand Support System 57-to-144-Inches, 2-pack #3HAND5
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067S12/
Smallrig® Cool Ballhead Arm V4 Multi-function Double Ball Adapter with Bottom Clamp & Standard 1/4" Screw - 1138
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ5XH4O/
Props for a good low cost solution, though!
These clamps
These poles
This is the setup I have in my room right now. One of the poles is in a corner of the room and the other is on my desk stretching to the ceiling. It makes for a nice portable and stable setup.
I use these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DJ5XH4O?psc=1&amp;ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
And these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CRDD6Y?psc=1&amp;ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
My setup uses 3rd Hand Support System and clamp mount and it's worked great. I've moved it a few times and haven't worried about the effort at all.
Quick support rod: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CRDD6Y/
Camera clamp mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ5XH4O/
Works great!
I will say that there's this smug feeling once you have one that makes it worth the trouble. If your girlfriend/wife/etc doesn't like the look of it, then do something creative to attach to the rear-view mirror so that it's not so visible. Or get something like a Mobius ( https://www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-mobius_regular_lens-Mobius-Action/dp/B00DP1WYD2 ) that is so small that no one can easily see it. You want to hardwire it, but if you don't want to deal with hardwiring it, take it to Car Toys on College and have them do it.
I'm fine with owning up to my mistakes but there are a lot of sleazy people who make stuff up to the police to avoid taking responsibility for their mistakes and my dashcam makes me feel like the next time some asshat does something idiotic and then blames it on me, I'll have proof.
Request footage here:
https://www.fcgov.com/traffic/
But most of the locations in the city they do not record or keep records for privacy reasons. But you can ask and if you are going to do so, then do it quickly... like today.
I have the Godox TT350S and the trigger that comes with it when you buy it in a bundle on Amazon and it works well in a studio environment but if you are shooting events/weddings I don't recommend it. It can be slow and the fill in a big open room is really lackluster. If you are comfortable shooting with a manual flash I recommend the Yongnuo YN560 IV because it's cheap and can be used as a trigger if you decide to buy more than one. The only thing is it isn't supposed to be compatible with the hotshoe on Sony cameras but in my experience it works fine. Also, if it stops working you can get a relatively cheap converter for the hotshoe.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PGTOX26/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X9M43N2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use these stands:
Fovitec StudioPRO - 2x 7'6" Classic Light Stand Kit - [Classic][For Photo and Video][Includes Carrying Bag] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNZJLG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_RqfDybS6P2MCN
...and these mounts:
EXMAX Tripod Mini Ball Head for DSLR Camera Camcorder Light Bracket Swivel 1/4" Screw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012FTXOW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_5rfDyb6KA2HPQ
They work extremely well for the lighthouses - you can't go wrong.
I found it easier to just get two tripods from Amazon, and a rotating mount for the top. Yours looks way cooler though...
I saw someone looking for one, so here's what I got:
Rotating mount: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012FTXOW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_o-w5xbBGDVPHB
Tripods: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002T50SD8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Q.w5xb8T2MRYA
Works like a charm.
Would these work for mounting?
http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4
http://www.amazon.com/EXMAX-Tripod-Camera-Camcorder-Bracket/dp/B012FTXOW4
This. I bought the exact same tripods and they work flawlessly. Although the tripods themselves won't allow for tilting of the lighthouse, so you also need to buy 2 of these puppies: https://www.amazon.com/EXMAX-Tripod-Camera-Camcorder-Bracket/dp/B012FTXOW4/ref=pd_bxgy_421_2?ie=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B012FTXOW4&amp;pd_rd_r=XRFY0Z3MEXXG005R4R7W&amp;pd_rd_w=dm3oZ&amp;pd_rd_wg=dxCH4&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=XRFY0Z3MEXXG005R4R7W
Tripod light stands from Amazon that you can find for around $30 a pair. That coupled with $5.00/pair adjustable ball and socket type mounts that allow the lightboxes to be titled. See below.
These:
Neewer® Set of Two 9 feet (260CM) Photo Studio Light Stands for Video, Portrait, and Product Photography https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4YR0BS
And these:
EXMAX Tripod Mini Ball Head for DSLR Camera Camcorder Light Bracket Swivel 1/4" Screw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012FTXOW4
Get something like this cheap mounting head and glue it or 3M tape it to the top of the pole.
The swivel means you can easily point it up/down, and the added height will mean the actual camera should sit just above your monitors, which will help the monitors not occlude the camera :)
Yeah I hope it's not an issue either. Looking at your link though that is for a single stand. You should get this one instead. Same company but two are included.
Edit: also get two of these if you do not want the pink ones linked above.
Well...hopefully you can place them on something high as the recommendations are what... 6ft?
To that I use StudioPRO Set of Two 7'6" Photography Light Stands with Carrying Bag for Photo & Video Studio https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNZJLG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_n45fybQ4J0NYQ
And
EXMAX Tripod Mini Ball Head for DSLR Camera Camcorder Light Bracket Swivel 1/4" Screw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012FTXOW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_l55fybBWW0C6G
Which works extremely well as I've moved my stations multiple times. The providers of the stand send them in a carry bag (further protected in boxes within). Easy to setup. Minimal space impact
I ordered two of these and they have been working great.
I needed the exact same thing. This is what I went with from amazon. They work great. One is the set of the tripods and the other is the mini ball head you will need for each lighthouse with the tripod.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/
I would also recommend extending the triple cable an extra 10 feet. You won't be able to keep the cable and HMD in the box after adding the cables, but it doesn't get tangled as easy and just works better when having other people try it for the first time.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FT9VW0O/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008JHB14/
I bought tripods as well for mobile setup. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
These go on top of the tripods and can then angle the base station.
I used these for the tripods and these for mounts. Perfect height, cheap, and works great. No issues at all.
Your brother should buy 2 sets of these. Up to 8' high and works great. Only about $50 total.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PEUA30/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M8SLI8U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Have worked great for me thus far and are relatively cheap.
Thanks for responding!
I linked the to Yi camera in the original post as an example, if you didn't see it here is a link. It's a camera that connects to WiFi using a QR code, and you can view it from your phone. Backs up into the cloud when it records footage.
When I say everything that goes into the IoT product, I'm talking about technical aspects and nothing involving lawyers/sales/marketing.
I have read a couple Instructables and Adafruit articles that show how to do this sort of thing on a Raspberry Pi, but that seems a bit different since it's essentially a computer, right? Also, they typically jump into 'hacking' instead of explaining components, how software works with hardware, etc.
Again, thanks for response.
I have these Yi Ant Cameras they are cheap and good quality. You can put a custom firmware on them which will shut off the Yi proprietary app, and will open up a RTSP web server. Then you can set up Home Assistant which lets you view cameras and will let you automate things when you come home.
I know these things require a bit of tinkering around but it's definitely worth it for the outcome. If you want some help setting up Home Assistant, reach out to the subreddit they're all really helpful people
i have 2 yi home cameras that i use and they are very easy to setup and great quality so far.
https://www.amazon.com/YI-Wireless-Security-Surveillance-US/dp/B016F3M7OM/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493218978&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=yi+home+camera
I agree with ShaggysGTI that a Raspberry Pi is a good option because you can also use it for a lot more than just photos, but I've also been using a Yi Home
camera https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B016F3M7OM/ (currently $40 but they occasionally have a sale for ~$35) and it works well. The only problem I had was late in flower when the plant got very tall and it wasn't possible to see much because of the fixed focus.
What neighborhood/part of town are you in?
I had a solicitor come by my place not too long ago trying to sell AT&T. I'm fairly certain she was legit as she didn't make any suspicious comments. I don't recall her wearing anything AT&T branded, however.
If you don't have any sort of security system, I can't recommend these Yi Home Cameras ($30 on Amazon) enough. Easy to set-up and controllable with a free app. They'll even alert you when they pick-up movement. Consider picking one (or more) up. You'll also need a microSD card to store video.
If she's a roommate couldn't she just have gone in the house to see if you were home?
Anyways, given your requirements most anything would work but you'll probably want some sort of cloud recording.
The yi ant cameras are cheap and will suit your needs. I generally wouldn't recommend them since there are some security and privacy concerns but with your budget you'd be able to get, well almost get, 3.
https://www.amazon.com/YI-Wireless-Security-Surveillance-US/dp/B016F3M7OM
Yi is a pretty well regarded brand so I would trust them a little more than the one you linked. If you want pan and tilt they have a version for $40 as well.
$40
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016F3M7OM/
Yas, dewit!
That is actually a really cool idea for a podcast! "Tales from the backseat" or something like that! They also make stuff for it! I found this on amazon as well as this. Totally affordable!
Alternative mic suggestion: Tascam DR-05 and a cheap lavalier mic like this
It's a lot more portable and versatile than the Snowball, but it will require you to sync up audio and video after the fact.
edit: honestly, even just the lav mic would help a lot
This one's good for its price
I've been happy with my PowerDeWise Lav Mic, good budget option at only $22
https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Microphone-Omnidirectional-Recording-Conference/dp/B01AG56HYQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1550863177&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=iPhone+lav+mic&psc=1 Thanks for the reply, this is the one I have, I'm not sure if it fits into that category.
https://www.amazon.com/Microphone-Universal-Sennheiser-Audio-Technica-200CM-Black/dp/B01IRCXC9S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537320528&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=ketdirect&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=412p1pN9CrL&amp;ref=plSrch
Or
https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Microphone-Omnidirectional-Recording-Conference/dp/B01AG56HYQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537320633&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=clip+on+mic&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=511anYrvUvL&amp;ref=plSrch
For what you're describing, the video camera sounds like it would be sufficient.
Rode's are OK, but I think they're a bit overpriced and not all that awesome for the price. For the money, Takstar makes a widely-touted knockoff that many people feel sounds better. It sells for about $25. Link here: https://www.amazon.com/TAKSTAR-SGC-598-Interview-Microphone-Camcorder/dp/B00E58AA0I/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537758700&sr=1-5&keywords=video+microphone
You also might consider a wired lavaliere mic. There are several on Amazon from about $20-30. I always have a few as backups and frequently use them as primaries, too. Here's one that's pretty highly rated: https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Microphone-Omnidirectional-Recording-Conference/dp/B01AG56HYQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537758700&sr=1-6&keywords=video+microphone
Best of luck!
&#x200B;
Would this work?
tried this once, they really don't last. it wasn't the exact same adapter but with feedback from people I know who try these, they all fail pretty soon. mic functionality is typically lost within a year and you have to buy another cable. it really adds up if you're a student gamer.
I'd say try to go for a nice, relatively inexpensive USB mic like this Fifine one or try to snag this $17 lapel one while it's on sale. The built-in microphone in Sony cans isn't too great anyway
almost anything cheap on Amazon will likely be better than your phone's mic. For example this one does the job just fine: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AG56HYQ/
test it out, try putting your phone an arms length from you and speak. Now do that while you move, go to the fridge to grab some foods and describe them at the same time. Play back and see how intelligible it sounds from your audience's perspective. A mic on you will almost always be better.
You can definitely do that, there are some cheaper ones on Amazon that I'm not sure on the quality of, or there's a Rode model that costs more but is known to be decent quality.
Personally since it's easy to return items to Amazon if they don't work well, I'd try the cheap one first and see how it goes.
adding onto this: I recently bought this mic for self tapes. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AG56HYQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's a super affordable option, and sounds 1000&#37; better than my iPhone mic. Nothing fancy but it does the job. I just tape it to the inside of my shirt and plug it into my phone and it works great. Before I used this mic, the volume on my tapes would go in and out depending on if I or the reader were saying lines (making the take unusable). I think my phone had trouble picking up the sound from two people. Problem fixed.
Thanks and congrats! Another milestone!
I've got to try that Viltron L116T.
Viltrox L116T
Great shot!! Product photography is 80% lighting. A few basic tricks if you dont want to invest too much:
1- A basic reflector kit (silver, gold, diffusor) will set you back about 30$ and can really help up your photography game. Alternatively, a 2x3 piece of glossy carboard, set like a dome over your watch, can act as a ghetto reflector and give you very nice results.
2- A LED panel such as this one lets you adjust both the intensity and the warmth of the light, which comes in handy when you want to match it with a secondary source of light.
3- You probably already know this, but RAW + Lightroom are your best friends if you’re shooting with a DSLR
Oh I found it! And the price dropped a lot! Here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZLM3QC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
PS - Does NOT come with a AC power cord. You need to buy that separate.
One of the good cheap lights is the Viltrox L116T. That should definitely be enough for your needs. It has adjustable color temperature and brightness, and can be powered by either batteries or a power adapter (neither included, but linked on the product page). I think these would provide better lighting than what you're looking at.
I had a large ring light that even at low settings just gave me headaches and got me tired fast. I had it angled as best I could but it was so large I couldn't do a lot. I tried diffusing it when it was facing me and it still happened. I moved it so it was bouncing off the wall instead of facing me.
I actually replaced it with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZLM3QC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01 (you need a power adapter too) and this is in the same spot as the ring light was (behind my monitor because I have no other room) but hasn't hurt my eyes. I don't know if it's just angled in a better way but it's significantly smaller even though the light is still as bright as far as I can tell.
Viltrox L116T(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZLM3QC/)
Thanks parametrek!
A friend uses this one with her Spectra and loves it. I never used it because I didn't know about it for baby #1 but may get it for baby $2 (whenever that happens). TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 6000mAh/5V 12000mAh DC Output Lithium Ion Battery Pack for LED Strip and CCTV Camera, Portable Li-ion Battery Bank with Charger, Black (Multi-led Indicator) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1UauDbEFXEF3G
It does say they have a BMS so it’s got some protection for the cells. I’m not sure if it would be full capacity for that price. I recently tried out this power bank/12v battery
Used Velcro to attach it to the back of my project. I’ve used it for a week and it’s still half full and you can always peel it off the Velcro and use it for a usb power bank.
This battery fits in the little elastic pocket and will run for hours on high.
TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 6000mAh/5V 12000mAh DC Output Lithium Ion Battery Pack for LED Strip and CCTV Camera, Portable Li-ion Battery Bank with Charger, Black (Multi-led Indicator) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pEJ2DbV5CXXJW
Good day. I am in the final stages of completion of a Pelican Boom Box and have a question about charging this [Lithium Ion Battery](http://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C) I have linked. If you click through the images you can see that I presently have the battery wired to a terminal block that goes up to a switch and the charging port on the exterior of the case.
For charging I used an [SAE socket](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031BOTFC?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s03) because that is what all the accessories on my motorcycle are powered by. I have replaced the end of the included wall charger for the LI battery (12V @ 1A) with the corresponding SAE plug. My goal is to be able to charge the case on AC from the wall plug, or DC from the bike or any other 12V outlet. When I spoke with a representative from the battery company they stated that 1A is the max amperage the battery should receive.
My questions are these;
Over all this has been a fun project and I look forward to version 2.0.
Build Link
If you look at Page 116 for the TechRef Manual the front battery port has the following pinout:
1 +5V
5 +12V
7 GND
8 GND
So something like this could potentially power it while fitting in one of the disk bays like the modems usually did
This has been recommended, haven't purchased, though:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B98J67O/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_25?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A2ND001GBQ4OXX
Also this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_6?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A24OIV2F0TL1K3
Here is the image set of my first set of mods. http://imgur.com/a/XptY6
Since then I have moved to an external power supply, and switched from the internal mic to a throat mic and an external PA speaker. The fans I used were 30mm x 30mm computer fans being powered by this power cell.
Couple additional thoughts...
Parts list:
Amp:
http://amzn.com/B016I5F4WE
Battery:
http://amzn.com/B00ME3ZH7C
Speakers:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R14X2/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R14X2.html
Subwoofer was from an Altec Lansing computer speaker set, and the box can be had at any local military surplus store.
well i found this cameras that records at 720p 60fps.
This is more expensive and records 1080p 60fps
if you find this expensive, i will keep searching.
The very inexpensive goPro - gives me around 4 hours or so battery - this one is running at 720p 60fps but can do 1080p@30fps, but I find a lot of screen tearing. Here is a link to the exact one: http://www.amazon.com/GoPro-CHDHA-301-HERO/dp/B00NIYNUXO?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
And you can order pretty much any mount off Amazon as well depending on where you want to place it.
Is it the same Hero from Amazon for $95? https://www.amazon.com/GoPro-CHDHA-301-HERO/dp/B00NIYNUXO
hard to beat this GP it records at 1080p, has decent battery life. Check out my videos I recorded this one in 720p and it still looks great, i have another one at Savage race at 1080p and it looks damn good.
dont be afraid to buy an older model, unless you think you need 4K or something, the older ones work great and for a fraction of the cost.
> http://www.amazon.com/GoPro-CHDHA-301-HERO/dp/B00NIYNUXO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1413991836&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=go+pro
Claramente tendría que comprarse la versión argentina
> http://www.polaroidcube.com/
Yo me compraria la nueva GoPro que es bastante barata $129, y creo que es bastante mejor que la polaroid.
http://www.amazon.com/GoPro-CHDHA-301-HERO/dp/B00NIYNUXO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1413991836&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=go+pro
Duh, I didn't link what I was trying to here. Here
Sorry about that.
I currently use my S6 for all the vlogs I record since that's the only really decent camera I have. It's funny you asked this question because I'm looking for another camera around this price point.
If you bump your budget up like $10 you could get into decent cameras to start off.
The GoPro hero retails at $129.99 on Amazon, but you could maybe find it cheaper used on eBay or something. It'll shoot 1080 at 30fps and 60fps at 720. Only thing is that it doesn't have a lcd screen so you won't be able to preview any footage. This was my first choice since I was looking for an action cam. The wifi one is like $199 and will allow you to preview footage on your phone, but for that price you could get something else like the GoPro session that shoots 4k and is smaller.
The Nikon CoolPix L340 is like $130-ish on Amazon (probably cheaper somewhere else) . It has a fixed lense and shoot only 720p video. I'm assuming probably just 30fps.
There are also some Samsung point and shoots around this price and lower, but the out of the box sound quality is probably terrible. I'd go with with either the GoPro or the CoolPix to start. You could also jump up into the $199 range which starts to offer very good quality. OR....you could also buy one of those handy cams too lol. I have one and it shoots decent video (1080/720 w/ 24-60 fps), but I feel stupid using it outside the house. Hope this helps a little bit! Good luck in your vlogging ☺.
What is a good budget waterproof camera for photography? Would I jut fare well with this? https://www.amazon.com/GoPro-CHDHA-301-HERO/dp/B00NIYNUXO/
It doesn't have an LCD to view it...
lel, hardly man, just shameless self-promotion. Anyway I recommend either of these!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009CN8VRK/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NIYNUXO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
with http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0055J2XQK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
It's a GoPro Hero with a cheap wrist strap.
A few other people have been posting these too... check out these channels:
Get an external flash. If I'd bought one of those I likely wouldn't have had a strong urge to upgrade my two kit lenses as fast as I did. This plus these and you're set. I recommend buying rechargeable batteries, you'll need 4 AA for the flash, and 2 AAA per wireless transmitter.
Canon person, but a Nikon person should come and correct me if I'm wrong. :D It looks like a 18-55mm kit lens. What kind of nature shots does she like to take? More wildlife or landscape stuff? If it's animals, a telephoto would be great. Something like the 70-300mm or the 55-300mm. Those would be in the $300-500 range. Indoor events, it would be good to have either a faster lens (50mm 1.8 is a cheap start, ~$100-150) so that she can take non-blurry photos in dark conditions.
Alternatively, get her a tripod (good for landscapes that require long exposures) or a flash like the Yongnuo to play with for portraits/indoor stuff.
What sort of photography are you working on? Unless you're doing light painting, or desperately need portable hot-lights, flashlights are generally awful for photo work. They're specialized all wrong.
The biggest issue by far is simply brightness. If you're getting good results with a smartphone flash (which is roughly 50 Lumens), then certainly we can improve on things. The Zebralight /u/infinity526 suggests obviously improves on that number quite substantially, although I think this more-expensive variant would be a better option, as it has better CRI and a daylight color temperature.
But for photography, 900 Lumens is nothing. A pretty basic speedlight comes closer to a million lumens. And has variable brightness and adjustable focus.
Aside from having good photography equipment the real trick is getting your flashes off camera. Get a radio transmitter and flashes (two or three is a good start) which work with it. We understand depth through shadow, and on camera flash gives no real sense of depth.
I use this setup:
Yongnuo YN560-TX Wireless Flash... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KM1QZRY
YONGNUO YN560 IV Wireless Flash... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PGTOX26
You'll want a pelican case to transport your flashes and camera gear in as well.
And if anyone is interested, this is a series I shot using the above gear: https://flic.kr/s/aHskSTPDnC
Okay, here is a better list, sorry for the mess:
Flash -- around $65.
Transmitter --around $35
Light stand + umbrella + flash bracket // around $30. I got this one used for $20 on Amazon. There are different ones and with different quality.
Canon 24mm f/2.8 -- around $150
Canon 50mm f/1.8 -- around $110.
Also, Yongnuo makes their version of the 50mm ($50), the 35mm ($88) and some others. I can only vouch for the 50mm, I either got a great copy or it is just great.
Hey, I've been shooting some of the cassettes with /u/killallmusic above. Heres some tips. First, as others have said, OFF CAMERA FLASH IS ESSENTIAL. That goes for any product photography. By far, the best bang for you buck is the Yongnuo IV and the wireless trigger to make it sync here. They are fully manual so no TTL (which is a feature of more expensive flashes that auto set the flash output to the available light) but I'm a big fan of learning strobe photography with manual flashes. You'll get way better way faster and there are a MILLION places online to read flash tutorials to get you started and plenty of video guides to get these flashes synced with the controller. On top of that, another absolutely essential part is some sort of diffuser. Softboxes are most often recommended. I use the following with my shots. These are both very nice pieces of gear and you can definitely find cheaper options that will do just fine on eBay and Amazon. You can get away with 1 for sure but I usually end up using two sources, one for a key light and one for a fill to add texture back to the shadows. As for actually shooting cassettes, your biggest problem will be glare. Any light hitting at a 45 degree angle to your lens will cause a flare so just adjust your angle of the tape or flash until you get rid of the glare. Last tip, when it comes to light, the closer a source is, the softer the light will be. That might sound backwards but its true. So get that flash all up in its business as close as you can to the product. Check out the Strobist blog for an amazing flash primer course. Trial and error is the name of the game. You can see some examples at http://killallmusic.storenvy.com. The Coutoux and Jay Pray tapes were shot with the exact gear and method I listed above. Happy shooting!
I started with Yongnuo and half my kit still consists of it.
You go from triggers, to flash, to a trigger made to work seamlessly with their flash.
Highly Recommend espically for a first/beginner set up.
I am getting into flash photography and my first step is buying a flash then heading onto strobist.ive done a little research on cheap flashes that are within my budget and i have narrowed it down to the neewer vk750 ii and yongnuo yn560 iv.The flash would be used for indoor events for example weddings. I would like to know which flash is the best of the two.
I have used this Yongnuo flash on my E-M10 as well as off camera, being controlled by the 560-TX unit you listed.
Do not despair! There are some ridiculously cheap alternatives to expensive gear out there. Specifically in the lighting department. DIY techniques are abundant all over the internet and if you can add some artificial light to your photos, they can skyrocket their level of quality.
Yongnuo makes some extremely practical 3rd-party gear comparable to nikon's and canon's $150-$400 speedlights. I've used their speedlghts and radio transmitters for going on 5 years now and are very dependable and outrageously cheap compared to pocket wizards. 2 speed lights + 1 set of transmitters = $200.
50mm F1.8 is an obvious first choice for a prime lens. As explained by others, a prime lens is a lens with no zoom, it's fixed. It works beautifully in low light and it's perfect for portraits.
It's also cheap (Canon sells them for just a bit over $100), so it's a good starting point if you don't know what you want.
I also bought a Sigma 17-50mm f2.8 as a replacement for my worn out kit lens.
The lens you're asking about is the cheapest versatile lens, that's why it's included with most consumer-grade cameras. It's really simple, it won't last very long, but it's cheap and it does the job. Mine started getting a bit loose, not focusing on auto mode properly after some 30k shots. I was working as a news photographer at the time, so this was like 2 months. For a home user this would take like 2 years, maybe even more than that. It's definitely not a bad option, though. You can take beautiful shots with it.
When it comes to photography, it's 80% skill, 10% gear and 10% luck. Don't buy expensive lenses hoping that they'll magically make your photos look better. It's the other way around, you need to learn to make beautiful photos first. Then you'll see where that lens is lacking, then you'll know what you need to buy. Don't waste money.
It will be good for planespotting and wildlife (if that's what you mean by "natural"). I don't think 28mm is as wide as you think it is, especially on that camera. I think you'll be frustrated if you try to do wide landscape shots on it.
For that money, I'd probably do something like a Sigma 17-50 combined with the Tamron 70-300 VC. Make sure you get the VC version of the 70-300; there's a non-VC version that's only like $150 and is total crap.
The Sigma is definitely within his budget if you consider Amazon Germany
The sensor is the same for all of nikons cameras in the D3xxx range, even the d5xxx are the same.
When it comes to the final product your lense is going to be way way way way way more important than the camera body itself.
That being said If I were in your position I would find a used D3300 body or buy it cheap on black Friday. If you can do that, then get yourself a prime lense like the 35mm or 50mm f/1.8. The image quality will be like night and day. I found my 50mm for $100 on Craigslist.
If you really want zoom or primes sound too restrictive then get a Sigma 17-55 f/2.8. It's around $250 new but well worth it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003A6NU3U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9Sn7BbX57NZK7
If you want to spend a little more and get INSANE image quality get a Sigma 18-35 f/1.8 for around $600. It's like a zooming prime, the only one of its kind and its phenomenal when it works. Chances are you'll have to spend some time calibrating it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DBL09FG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1Qn7BbP45FKSJ
Good luck.
I think the first decision you have to make is does it make sense to stick with Canon or would it be better long term to switch to Nikon. The two biggest factors I would consider is price and availability. Do you have canon-mount lenses readily available to purchase? Or is it easier to get Nikon products?
If you decide to stick with Canon the first thing i would do is buy another lens or two - NOT a new body. I started out with a Nikon D5100 kit with two lenses (18-55 & 55-300) and replaced my 18-55 pretty quickly. The kit lens was fine, but the lenses I did end up purchasing really helped my images to step up a level (linked below for reference).
If you decide to switch to Nikon I would pick up a used body (best series you can afford) and a lens. I would not buy the D3400 kit, the lens is going to be comparable to whatever you have.
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I think you are pretty good, I would pair down as others said rather then fill up. I would definitely leave the 50mm at home. Then if you think you would use it less the 20% of the time leave the Tokina behind since the coverage/aperture is pretty well covered by your 18-300. I love my Tokina but I really don't use it as much as I think so it's just weight in the bag.
You say you aren't concerned about weight but I always regret a lens by the end of a long day of walking around. I also often bring the lenses with me but then leave it in the hotel room, that way my fear of missing a lens is assuaged.
You didn't list it but I assume a charger in there, I got a small USB based one that is easier to manage then the bulky one you get with the camera for like 10 bucks that does the trick and it plugs into a big 4 port USB AC adapter with a Euro Plug that I got which let's me charge phones and ipads at the same time from one socket.
If $500 is burning a hole in your pocket. The one thing I sometimes carry with me is a a Point and Shoot or a little mirrorless. I have a OM-D EM 10 with a Panasonic 20mm 1.7 pancake that fits in my wife's purse for when we go out to dinner. Don't want to show up at a fancy restaurant looking like a tourist. Only to wish you could get a shot of the square outside. In fact one of my favorite shots I took in Croatia was like this and it's hanging on my wall right now. However nowadays I usually even leave that at the hotel because my phone can do almost the same thing.
Also you may want to look at the Sigma 17-50 2.8 walk around lens which can be had for 200-300 bucks and that could replace the 1.8's and the Tokina. Sure it's not as good as 1.8 but you get a fair amount of light and shave 3 lenses from your kit.
That $500 is better spent on a few great dinners for you and your wife, or a day trip to a different city IMHO.
Also, my wife and I have a new policy where at least one day of the trip I leave the camera gear in the hotel and just use my phone. It allows me to enjoy the day and spend time with her and my Daughter and not my gear. I really recommend it. The world doesn't NEED your personal take on Vienna : )
https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-17-50mm-Aperture-Standard-Digital/dp/B003A6NU3U/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1VNX8IBCB1S1K&amp;keywords=sigma+17-50mm+f+2.8+nikon&amp;qid=1558120352&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=Sigma+17-%2Caps%2C194&amp;sr=8-3
Hey guys, I'm planing to travel to Thailand and I want to buy some new lenses for that trip. At the moment I only have my Nikon D5300 with the kit lens 18-55. The lenses I'm planing to buy are: Tokina 11-16 2.8 // Nikon 50 1.8 G // Nikon 35 1.8 // Sigma 17-50 2.8. I love doing landscape photography, astrophotography and portraits, but I can't afford all these three lenses and I don't want to travel with all that weight on my bag. What would u do in my situation? Thanks for the comments.
Have you considered upgrading the glass? Consider the Sigma 17-50 2.8 It's by no means a budget buster.
https://smile.amazon.com/Sigma-17-50mm-Aperture-Standard-Digital/dp/B003A6NU3U?sa-no-redirect=1&amp;th=1
http://www.bythom.com/Sigma17-50mm_lens_review.htm
Your best bet if you want to shoot the night sky at a budget is look for refurbished or used units (on the net - Amazon, Cameta, or your local classifieds.) From a very quick browse, if you want a dedicated night sky shooter, then the Nikon D3300 (refurb $295 from Cameta) and the Rokinon f2.8 14mm = 21mm equivalent ($279 new from Amazon) will let you take amazing night photos. The Nikon D3300 is a great low light shooter - large sensor, paired with a solid image processor. The Rokinon gives a large field of view (equivalent to 80° horizontal) and is fairly fast at f2.8. With this setup, all that's needed is you going to a nice location with little light pollution, snapping away in raw, and then maybe doing some required post-processing.
Also note that I've seen way better deals for the D3300 - seen it at $250 with Kit Lens after discounts and cashback, new, you might be able to find something like that with the Black Friday sales. If you need a more general purpose lens then the Sigma 17-50mm f2.8 (~300 Amazon) is a great alternative to the Kit Lens - it's faster at f2.8 and slightly wider angle 25mm-75mm in 35mm equivalent. Also, you could look for an equivalent Canon DSLR (1200D from the top of my mind) with a similar lens. Good luck!
Edit: Also note that ultra wide angles <20mm are really expensive new. The 21mm will get you fantastic results, or if you want panoramas, then you might have to stitch pictures together - an entirely different topic!
While my go to lens for someone with a crop nikon is the 35mm 1.8, if you want to shoot portraits, you want a 50mm.
https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-Standard-Aperture-Nikon-Cameras/dp/B01E38TZDC is a very budget friendly version that will auto focus with your camera.
As far as closeups, the cheapest way to up your macro game is a set of close up filters - https://www.amazon.com/Vivitar-VIV-CL-52-Close-up-52mm-Lens/dp/B004E54LBQ/ is a set that will work on your kit lens.
Now if you have a bit more money to spend - https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-17-50mm-Aperture-Standard-Digital/dp/B003A6NU3U would replace your current lens. It is capable as a starting portrait lens, and gives a wide amount of zoom. https://www.amazon.com/Vivitar-Close-Up-Macro-Filter-Pouch/dp/B004E580PY would be a set of close up filters for that lens...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B003A6NU3U/ref=olp_twister_child?ie=UTF8&amp;mv_customer_package_type=0&amp;mv_style_name=1
Oh, yeah I checked and I don't have the room for a 50mm. I'm considering getting this lens now. I'm not sure if a 35mm 1.8 prime would be better though.
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer%C2%AE-Shutter-Release-Control-Hasselblad/dp/B003Q9RERY
or
http://www.amazon.com/Polaroid-Shutter-Release-Control-Replaces/dp/B008FBMSWY
Ok. All the recent Canon cameras can take a cheap interval timer, which allows you to do star trails, nightscapes and wide field pictures. It will also be necessary for deep sky images, but that that you'll also want some way to track the movement of the earth. Pentax's K-r and K-5 can take a GPS unit that does this, which is nifty. But you're limited in the focal length and time you can expose for. A more robust solution is a German equatorial mount, like for a telescope, but you wouldn't need a telescope. If you get a sturdy one, that can track for a long time. But it's heavy and requires some setup. The K-5 can also take the cheap inteval timer, but for the K-r, you'll need one of those, and this http://www.gentles.ltd.uk/gentled/trigger.htm, which someone on here just recently told me about. It uses the IR port of the K-r for shooting. It looks cool but I haven't heard about any first hand experience with it.
As far as lenses go, as I said elsewhere, the Canon 18-55 IS is decent. Their 10-22mm is also good for really really wide angles, but expensive. The 50 f/1.8 is cheap and great optically, but at 50mm, you can only image about 12 seconds without trails, unless you point towards the north star(or south celestial pole). Since the stars move less there, you can image longer. You can use many old prime lenses to save money like M42 screw mount, Pentax, Nikon, or Olympus with just a metal adapter. But you can't use old manual focus FD mount Canon lenses, they wont focus to infinity. If you get a Pentax, you can use all old k-mount lenses, and m42 mount lenses with a cheap adapter as well. Old prime lenses are usually much better than the old zoom lenses.
To save money you could also get a used Canon XS better yet an XSi. They are both decent for astro. You definitely want Live view to help in focusing, which they both have it.
Some good concrete advice here: http://www.backyardastronomy.com/Backyard_Astronomy/BAG_Blog/Entries/2009/12/10_I_Want_to_Shoot_Deep-Space_Objects!.html
here http://astropix.com/HTML/I_ASTROP/TOC_AP.HTM . For more stuff. Also have a look at the cloudynights.com forums' astrohphotography section.
Let me know what further questions you have.
I prefer the $17 version
On the side of your camera there is a little port that looks like a smaller headphone jack. You get a remote control that plugs into that. Then you set the remote to take a picture every X seconds for Y shots. For instance, you could set it to take a picture every 6 seconds for 300 shots, which would take 30 minutes. Once you have your pictures, you use video editing software to create a video out of the frames, and voila, a time lapse video is born. In this case, you would have condensed 30 minutes into about 10 seconds, at 30 frames per second. That make sense?
Example remote [amazon]
The upper port on the left
The biggest bang for the buck is a tracker. It makes your pics 50x better. Even an older camera like the 30D with a kit lens on a tracker is better than a sweet 6D with a fast prime lens on a tripod.
Allow me to refer to my comparison of exposure times. Again ;)
With a modest telephoto lens you are limited to a couple of seconds exposure. Compare that with what you see at 60 seconds in my example above.
Tracker's are pretty simple. Add an intervalometer, so you can get a lot of vibration free photos.
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I'd grab an intervalometer from Amazon, and if possible set your focus ahead of time (set up your bike in the spot you want focus) use f/8 if possible. Have the intervalometer to start ripping away photos (can have it go continuously until manually stopped), make a run or two and go check it afterwards.
You can also find some fairly cheap "like new" film cameras on Craigslist along with some film.
Film cameras are the best and it will probably be very nostalgic to the person you are gifting it to.
I'm making the assumption that he has a Canon DSLR but you can find most of this gear if he has something like a Nikon, Sony, etc... One thing I love to receive to as a photography gift is more batteries! I use to shoot a lot of landscapes and I could never have enough of these.
Anyways, hopefully you find something for your brother! Good luck!
The Canon 450D can do longer than 30 seconds in BULB mode. In manual mode, just keep turning the exposure dial and after 30" you should see BULB. You will now need either software (BackyardEOS) or an intervalometer (something like this) to set the exposure timing in BULB mode.
As for your other question: one 5 minute exposure will resolve more signal than ten 30 second exposures. All other things equal the 5 minute exposure is better, but to get that 5 min. exposure you would probably need a good mount, accurate polar alignment, maybe autoguiding, etc.
Not too long ago I purchased the Tamron 90mm f/2.8 macro (amazon). I picked it because I wanted something for both macro and a sharp prime lens for portraits. I have been fairly satisfied with it and would recommend it. If you aren't interested in the portrait aspect, then I would probably get something longer than 90mm.
I'd suggest buying some extension tubes which can be found for cheap and would allow you to play with your current lenses at much closer distances to your subjects to help you decide what length macro lens you'd like to get (60mm vs. 90mm vs. 100mm etc.).
Well I checked again, something was recorded I guess (just the camera info i believe).
The macro tube is a very cheap metal tube which has a male and female EF mount (the receiving end and the actual mount, hopefully that terminology isn't horribly incorrect). All it does is it allows the lens to be held further than usual allowing macro capabilities in lenses that ideally wouldn't. There are no electrical contacts so the aperture etc cannot be changed - i open the aperture at its widest and then mount it on the tube, the display shows the aperture as '00'. Autofocus doesn't work either, so it's all manual focus with really narrow DOF.
It was one of these I believe.
What are some good cheap attachments I should look at for my Canon Rebel T5 starter kit? I've been looking at extension tubes for budget macro shooting such as this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y60DZO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HHIgybR2YZS6V . Anyone have any other hardware or products I should look into that is also budget?
from her camera list the Fotodiox Canon EOS Macro Extension Tube Set Kit for Extreme Close-up, fits for 21.49?
Look up how the lens manipulates light.
I suggest buying this: http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-10-MCR-CN-Kit-Extension-Extreme-Close-Up/dp/B003Y60DZO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1367801969&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=macro
Your 550D has an APS-C sensor, which means it's smaller than a full frame sensor by a factor of 1.5
What that means is whatever focal length of lens you get, you're actually seeing a x1.5 zoom version of it. Example: When you use a 50mm lens, you're getting 75mm out of it.
This kind of set a base for what focal length of lenses you'd want to get. For a full frame camera in general, my go to range consist of 35mm, 50mm, 85mm, 105mm, and 135mm.
So to get to your question, I'd probably go with a 35mm for you since it's the closest to 50mm for a full frame camera. That's generally a good medium shot, and you can get a fairly good DoF once you play around with it a little. If you do more videos and photos, then this is a good start.
If you are set on getting a 50mm first, I would definitely recommend you to visit your local camera shops, or pawn shops. Try to find a good nikon 50mm lens that's made in the earlier years. 70s, 80s, and get an adapter for it. The reason behind that is because at some point you're going to get a good enough lens that will cover that range, so spending a great deal of money for that range might not be your best option. Obviously, you can get the f1.8 canon, bang the hell out of it for $110 and call it a day and not worry. I'll be the first guy to tell you that's hands down one of the best deal you can get. I own one of those, and one of the nikon 50mm. They're both great in their pricing these days, I bought this almost 3 years ago, and I use it majority of every shoot on my 5Dmkii, all for $130 at the time. I found and bought this at a local camera shop for $150 like a week ago and couldn't be happier. The biggest difference and the reason I don't love the canon 50mm is that it's plastic. Over the years, the focus gear is losing precision and I'm having a tougher time focusing. Also the focus ring prevents you from using a follow focus on it, and on top of that, the glass element on that lens is just not a top quality glass, and so the picture color just doesn't give you that glow even in pre editing phase. Nikon 50mm is still selling this well, even though it's a full manual lens, because their older lenses are all in great quality, durable, and the glass elements are just incredible. Sadly, rokinon doesn't have a 50mm cine lens, their line up goes from 35mm to 85mm, mostly to serve cameras with smaller sensor sizes.
And one more thing, when you get a chance, get your hands on one of these. It takes some learning curve, but if you have a 35mm, 50mm, or an 85mm, this is gonna get you an amazing close up shot with tons of shallow DoF. You're not going to use it a lot, but damn if you don't have it when you need it! Word of advise on it though: Throw a shit ton of lights and close your iris, cause when I said a shit ton of shallow DoF, I mean your focal distance could easily be a nose length!
Hope this helps!
Edit: Typo
http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Canon-Extension-Extreme-Close-Ups/dp/B003Y60DZO/
These are the exact tubes I purchased...I have to say it's the best $15 I've spent on my kit :D
This is what I use
It's awesome. Definitely worth the 11 bucks.
Canon T2i. I used one of these on my Canon 55-255.
bonus bts pic!
If you don't care about GSync, the best deals currently are Nixeus and Pixio both ~615CAD after shipping+tax from amazon.com. They're both 27" 1440p 144hz IPS panels with Freesync.
If you're going to get a colorimiter I'd go for a ColorMunki Display as it's the same hardware as in the XRite i1DisplayPro with some of the pro software features locked. Spyders are overpriced in Canada imo, as well as slightly worse than the Xrite stuff.
Here you go
According to CCC, it's actually at a fairly low price point right now. I got mine for $100 on sale from b&h I think? But that was a particularly good price. Prime day is coming up so it's possible to see more of a sale but the current price is pretty good.
You don't need to get the more expensive X-Rite i1Display Pro. It's largely the same as the colormunki but has a few more "pro" features built in that you'll never use and it can calibrate faster. You'll do it only once every 6 months after the initial setup so the extra money isn't worth it unless you do color work and need to calibrate often. I would also avoid datacolor's spyder calibrators in favor of the x-rite's.
It really is just one of those amazing tools that you can buy and just have forever and it will earn its value back over and over.
Holla!
I am looking for a gift for my girlfriend. She is just starting out and her biggest bottle neck is a crappy laptop. She has a canon rebel t5 I think so that should be plenty. Her complaint lately is how her edited images colors are way off when she looks on her phone or a print when using her laptop. With this, I see there is monitor color calibrators so I was looking at this: X-Rite CMUNDIS
She is planning on getting a new laptop with her own money and I think the calibrator would be useful for any screen. I also thought about getting a external monitor. Once again she is not professional so I thought something IPS maybe ultrawide? LG UM57 25UM57
And also for a laptop she was asking what she should get so I looked for something portable/sleek, 1080p, ssd, and i5 + and came up with Zenbook-UX305UA
Basically are these good options for someone starting out doing as a side job?
Thanks!
It sounds like you need to calibrate your monitor. I would read up on it on google. I use this device to calibrate my monitors (there are also cheaper ones):
https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-ColorMunki-CMUNDIS-Accuracy-Calibration/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ColorMunki&amp;qid=1567110396&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-3
Ah, yeah, in that case it may help.
If you have the patience you should consider purchasing a colorimeter and calibrating your TV. You can do this pretty cheaply if you buy the Colormunki Display colorimeter ( on sale for $150 on amazon right now - http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-CMUNDIS-ColorMunki-Display/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408992805&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=colormunki ) and use the free HCFR calibration software - http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/1393853-hcfr-open-source-projector-display-calibration-software.html
The difference between a properly calibrated TV and even the best you can do by eye with a calibration dvd is night and day.
This is great: https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-ColorMunki-CMUNDIS-Accuracy-Calibration/dp/B0055MBQOM
Use it with displaycal software.
> Colormunki Display
Thank you for the amazing reply.
The Colormunki Display came out in 2011, right? It has better sensor even though it came out 4 years earlier?
Is this 2011 one, the one you're talking about:
X-Rite CMUNDIS ColorMunki Display CDN$ 168.99
Datacolor S5P100 Spyder5PRO CDN$ 187.16
The Spyder5 express is the same price as the 2011 Colormunki Display.
I usually don't use those items to clean my machine. But I am sort of strict when it comes to using the laptop. Like I never use it while eating etc. ThinkPads are fingerprint magnets. It doesn't take much effort to get it all greasy. I usually clean my machine once a week with a micro fibre cloth and some lens cleaning liquid, like the ones you use to wipe off TVs and such. And it seems to have worked well for me. I've seen people use those materials that you mentioned to clean their ThinkPads but I don't know much about them since I never used them. One thing I suppose you need to be careful about the X1E is the Carbon Fibre weave on the top panel. Refrain from using anything like a "magic eraser" unless you are 100% sure that it will not do any harm. But having a good personal hygiene helps to not go to extreme to clean your laptop. My slight OCD regarding having clean hands does help in that regard. :-)
For the calibration you need a Display Calibration hardware product like X-Rite or Spyder X. In combination with those hardware and the supporting software, you can colour correct your panels. I bought mine in Australia and they provide the option to have it calibrated directly from the factory. Although, not sure why that is even an "option". For a laptop this expensive it should come calibrated by default for everyone who picks the 4K screen. Also, what is the point of supplying one of the best panel on the market with your laptop where it is not properly colour corrected. Doesn't do justice to this beautiful screen. Anyway, that is just my thought. If you want I can give you the profile file on mine and you can try it out on yours to see if it makes any difference or not. But usually panel profiles differ for every panel, so better to have it calibrated individually. Also, professionals recommend that you calibrate your display every few months. I am thinking about buying one on eBay during Christmas sales, it is a one time investment and just might be worth it over a long period of time. Now all that remains is convincing my other half why I need a toy that I'll only use 3 or 4 times a year. For me, that is the toughest part in this whole "calibration" issue. ;-) .
Hope you enjoy your X1E for years to come. Cheers.
According to the specs you gave your current monitor has a PPI of 90.05 at an aspect ratio of 16:10. The most popular spec is 24" 1920x1080 aspect ratio of 16:9 which has a PPI of 91.79. So not far off to what you have.
If you want to stick to a PPI of around 90-92 you can try to look for 32" 2560x1440p 16:9 monitors. The UI size will be close to what you are used to, though I don't know of any with an IPS panel (which is important in your line of work).
If you want to stick to a 16:10 aspect ratio there's the Dell U2415 at 93.95 PPI.
Lastly, you could look into Ultrawides (21:9 aspect ratio). The Dell U3415W at 109.68 PPI looks good for productivity, but I don't know if you can deal with the curve as some designers can and some can't. Flat ultrawide like the LG 29WK600 is a good option at 95.81 PPI.
Use this PPI Calculator when researching monitors. Higher PPI = sharper image and more work space, but you will need to keep UI size in mind like you mentioned before.
Also don't forget to get a calibration tool like a X-Rite ColorMunki if you're doing professional work.
Buy a color calibrator, or do it very crudely (if you are selling prints I would not do this) and hold your phone next to your MacBook and use the basic software adjustments like contrast, gamma, and rgb settings to match it. A proper color calibrator will ensure your photos are accurate and as even as they can be across all screens. Some of the higher end ones even allow camera and printer calibration. Once again, unless you are just shooting for fun, id STRONGLY recommend actually buying a proper calibrator like these:
Datacolor spyder5PRO or the spyder5elite
x-rite colormunki display or the x-rite idisplay PRO
This is the light box I got. I love it because it came with everything I needed (including the lights and light box). It is very compact and portable. It wraps up into it's own carrying case with pockets for the lights and the camera tripod. It's pretty perfect for me!
https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Photography-Studio-Lighting-AGG349/dp/B005CX9S8A/ref=sr_1_12?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483465750&amp;sr=1-12&amp;keywords=light+box
I have this one , but I don't like it much and rarely use it anymore. I had a hard time with anything that wasn't tiny showing the edges of the box on the sides. Plus I still had shadow issues. And the lights that come with them get HOT fast, which sucks when you want to adjust them.
Instead I have a couple places in my house with decent natural lighting, 2 cheap gooseneck lamps I got at goodwill, and some black and white posterboard. It just seems easier to me, and the results are about equal. That is to say, my photos are decent but not fantastic.
From Penn State actually!
The light box I got from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Photography-Studio-Lighting-AGG349/dp/B005CX9S8A/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541632217&amp;sr=8-6&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=light+box&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51kJgTeh7IL&amp;ref=plSrch
This is a link to the light box i bought and i played around with the pro settings on my Galaxy Note 8. And a lot of trial and error.
If it helps though, I used this cheap lightbox and some extra flashlights to get the backdrop and lighting. However, I'd either wait for a price drop or look for that model elsewhere because it was only $22 when I bought it from amazon and it's almost double that now for whatever reason.
You could also pretty easily build a little diffused lightbox yourself. They work great for small items like beer cans.
I have this 16"x16" one. I put the lights on the outside and it works well. The fabric needed ironing. It might look wrinkly in some of my photos because I didn't iron it right away.
LimoStudio 16" x 16" Table Top Photo Photography Studio Lighting Light Tent Kit in a Box, AGG349 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CX9S8A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QQv8Cb1795CWZ
Here are some photos.
https://imgur.com/a/WG8lMdr
They're nice. Just make sure to get one that's large enough.
The one I got from Amazon (this one) is much too small for anything besides HGs. I don't regret it as I got it for a good price from Amazon warehouse but knowing what I know now, I'd've spent a bit more and gotten a larger one.
Oh and here is the mini studio in case you're curious: https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Photography-Studio-Lighting-AGG349/dp/B005CX9S8A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482707772&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=mini+photo+studio
This is a tab expensive but it was the first light box i bought and its been pretty handy https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CX9S8A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Couple things:
I recently bought a little light tent that works AMAZING for action figures. It's actually really cheap for the drastic improvement in your picture quality. Here it is on Amazon Just remember to shoot with as low an ISO as possible and compensate with a tripod and a slow shutter.
Also, I want to casually mention that this figure is on the ol'bay. Not gonna link to it but you can search for it if you care. :D
If you're going to build it, then you're gonna have to buy a separate camera. I'm sure you've heard of the GoPro, which a lot of people (including me) use. If you want a cheaper camera then a lot of people are having success with the Mobius Action Cam which is significantly cheaper (only ~$75).
Here's a comment I made to a similar post earlier:
>This frame is one of the cheapest options around. This frame is a little more expensive but you get better motors, esc's, flight controller, and a few other things that you will need (such as props). The previous frame is a clone of the Blackout Mini H which has top-of-the-line build quality, motors, and esc's, but is quite a bit more expensive. I have the blackout mini-h so obviously I'm a little biased, but it really is one of the best ones out there. There are other options such as the QAV250.
Aside from these options the link that /u/mstevenson10009 linked below contains all the other information you need.
Others have provided valuable recommendations, but here is one that I haven't seen mentioned.
Mobius Action Cam
Pros
Cons
In general, I'd recommend steering clear of anything with a screen that is cheaper than $100. With the only exception being an A119/A119S if you can find it on sale. I rarely hear of a Mobius failing just from normal use, and when it does fail, its usually because of intense heat, or external force.
Regardless of what you choose, you shouldn't have to pay more than $150 for a dashcam that does what you described. Let me know if you have any other questions,
Peace.
I noticed that the mobius by black box is $85. I work at SpyTec, and we have it a little cheaper on Amazon for $77. Our Wide Angle on Amazon is $75.
Not trying to criticize sidebar choices in any way. Just mentioning that we generally have a lower price, in case anyone wants to go that router. Our price for the G1W-CB is a tad higher, Black Box seems to have us beat there.
Edit:
Also, some food for thought. I know the mini 0805 is popular, but I think, in terms of amazon ranking and popularity, the A118-C sells 10x more than the 0805, and we get fewer issues with them overall, too. This coming from a seller's perspective. Take it as you will.
I have a mobius and have owned many other cheap keychain/dash cams before. The mobius is definitively the best for your money. Its EASILY programmable in any way you could want. THE DIRECTIONS ARE IN ENGLISH, which isn't too common with these things, and I've been running mine every day ALL day for the past 4 months and its never fucked up.
Go buy a mobius, you will not regret it. $75 can save you thousands, maybe even prison time. http://www.amazon.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-Sports/dp/B00DP1WYD2
http://www.amazon.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-Sports/dp/B00DP1WYD2
I'm also looking and researching good dash cams and here is what I have come up with so far:
Garmin Dashcam 55($200)
*GPS-enabled with automatic incident detection (G-Sensor) saves video footage on impact to show when and where events happened
THINKWARE X500D Dashcam($255)
Mobious ActionCam($70)
Yes, a Mobius cam. It's matchbook sized, 1080P and weighs a few grams. I use them on ultralight radio control helicopters that can't lift as much as a pigeon so it shouldn't be a problem. https://www.amazon.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-Sports/dp/B00DP1WYD2
This is a video I shot of my 130x helicopter crashing from a pretty good distance up. Good idea of the video quality. This heli is the size of a paper plate and weighs like 3 ounces.
I'm a week late and on mobile but http://www.amazon.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-Sports/dp/B00DP1WYD2
P.S. Here is the Mobius Camera I talked about...my Syma x5 lifts it just fine, I have it hook and loop'd on the bottom. The x5 comes with a "2mp" camera, which is that of your motorola razer from 2000
Of course the Hero 3+ Black looks nice but $330 for a limited use camera? Not gonna happen on my budget.
I'd prefer to stay sub $200
Any thoughts on alternative models like these?
http://www.amazon.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-Sports/dp/B00DP1WYD2/ref=sr_1_3?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1413469641&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=gopro
http://www.amazon.com/SJ4000-Recorder-Waterproof-Motorbike-Camcorder/dp/B00ISUNBPU/ref=sr_1_4?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1413469641&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=gopro
My only concern with those is limited mounting options.
I think the 50mm L lens you were looking at was the f/1.2 one, not the f/1.8? There's a f/1.4 in between them also
That means it lets in more light, therefore is more expensive. The focal length is the same, it's just faster. The faster the lens (the lower the f-number), the more expensive it will generally be.
There are some faster zoom lenses that are f/2.8 but they will be much more expensive than the kit lens and imho it would make more sense to buy different focal lengths primes if one needs that much variety.
I bought this when I was still fairly new and was shocked at how much better photos looked compared to the kit lens.
Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM Lens for Canon DSLR Cameras https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EW8074/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qjhLxbEPQ4GH8
Used they go as low as $500.
You're not going to have a constant use for 85mm prime with that camera (which works out to 136mm), unless you intend to shot lots of talking heads. Additionally, the lack of image stabilization means you can't even breathe on the camera during takes. For on location shoots, it's not the best investment.
If you want a fast, practical prime, get Canon's 24mm f/2.8 IS USM. On your body, it's right between a wide angle and portrait lens, so it'll work in many more situations.
If you want a cheap, but excellent zoom, check out the Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 VC, and compare it to Canon's 24-105 f/4. You won't see any difference with video footage at 5.6, and because the Tamron can drop to 2.8, you can be a bit more flexible with lighting.
EDIT: although I've never used it, this is considered the best crop-body zoom you can get, and, like the 24-105/24-70, it's flexible enough that you might not need much else.
Purely speaking on brands:
I recently did a lot of research into starting lenses and here are my suggestions :)
This lens is used for 'walking around' you can get some wide angle and some good portraits with it. It's very flexible.
This lens is very pricey. Look at Tamron to save the most money (I vouch for it) or Sigma for a little more, but less than the Canon.
Remember with crop ratio that changes the FL of a lens! Figure out if yo have one or not.
Simple rules of thumb? Save money. Wherever possible. But, always get the best glass you can afford. Glass is greater than body.
Hope this helps - if it does please pay this comment forward, it took a lot of typing so feel free to share with other people in similar questions :D
If you're looking for a higher quality alternative to you kit, then you can't do much better than the Canon 17-55mm f/2.8. Not an L, but it bloody well should be. Lacks in build quality but makes up with opticals.
Be warned though, it's an APS-C lens so it only works with crop bodies. Would not be usable on a 5Dmk2
I personally would go for the 24-105. It is a good lens and gives you more overall flexibility than the 24-70. I own a 24-70 and while it is an amazing piece of glass I do find myself wishing for a bit more reach relatively often. The 24-70 you are looking into buying isn't the f2.8 version, so it doesn't give you any obvious benefits over the 24-105.
If you don't have any intention of going full frame you could also look at a lens like this.
It gives you a bit more of a wide angle that you might need on a crop sensor camera, as well as better low light abilities with a faster f2.8 aperture. However if you ever plan on getting a full frame camera it would be wise to invest in glass that works for it.
Hope this helps!
http://www.amazon.com/Canon-EF-S-17-55mm-Lens-Cameras/dp/B000EW8074
I would recommend a EF-S 17-55 2.8f if you go for the 7D (will not work with a 5Dmrk2)
http://www.amazon.com/Canon-EF-S-17-55mm-Lens-Cameras/dp/B000EW8074/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1292814940&amp;sr=1-1
It's not a L series but for the price it is an excellent lense.
Edit: It is also an easy lense to use as it has a constant apature (how much light comes it to the lense) through its whole zoom range.
That's with the kit lens. I'm using the 17-55 IS USM
If you need a fast wide angle, check out the EF-S 16-35mm f/2.8. It's like the 16-35mm, but about $500 cheaper since it's designed for crop sensors. There are also a few fast primes like the Sigma 10mm f/2.8
If you're shooting in a lot of low light situations, I don't think f/4 is going to be enough.
As everyone is saying, buying good glass is a great investment. Keep in mind though that the L lenses are very heavy. And if this is going to be your primary lens also keep in mind that 24mm isn't very wide on a crop sensor.
Unless you want more zoom a 17-55 f/2.8 might be a better option:
http://www.amazon.com/Canon-EF-S-17-55mm-Lens-Cameras/dp/B000EW8074/
Everyone I know that has one loves it. The only issue is it's an EF-S mount, but if you're just buying your first real lens my guess is you won't be getting a full frame anytime soon, and could resell this lens very easily.
Excellent timing! I've actually been looking at the non-L Canon 17-55/f2.8 with IS. It's pricier than the L you mention (?!!), AND it's only an EFS, of course. But its USM AF motor blows my Tamron's screechy, plodding AF out of the water, its range (27-88) is marginally better and it has IS.
Confusion reigns at the moment. Upgrade body and buy an out and out lens upgrade, or just upgrade to somewhat better lens.
Buy used and save some money. Skip the kit lens if it makes a big financial difference because they're generally trash. Pick up a nifty fifty and maybe a third party zoom. This can be applied to any of those cameras in your list.
Now, for my advice. Do you have any friends/family who do photography? It might be beneficial to buy into their manufacturer so that they can help explain how to use your camera and you can borrow lenses. At this level, they're all about the same, though I believe that Nikon has slightly better ISO performance.
I'm a Canon guy myself. I'd recommend a T6i, Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM, and if there's any money left in your budget, a 50mm f/1.8. All used. You'll be very happy with that setup, I think, and the lens will cover a good chunk of the normal focal range until you get a feel for what you want to shoot.
Saying "I shoot manual" is false bravado.
If you want to control the depth of field, shoot aperture priority.
If you want to control/stop motion, use shutter speed priority.
I think your best bet in a lens would be a Nikon or Tamron 70-300. Be sure to get the VR (Nikon) or VC (Tamron) version. Used they are around $300. [Link here.] (http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-70-300mm-4-5-5-6G-Digital-Cameras/dp/B000HJPK2C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464050783&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=nikon+70-300)
Used from a reputable seller is fine.
What type of photography are you using it for? Those 70-200s are crazy expensive for a hobbyist. If you're taking pictures outdoors during the day, something like the 70-300 4-5.6 will be good for under $600. I actually bought a used copy of the Tamron version of that lens for $250. Make sure you get the one with the IR/VR/VC, thought. All 3 manufacturers make a cheap (~$150) version of the same lens that's pretty bad.
What's a good zoom lens that won't break the bank for an amateur photographer (will probably use it to photograph wildlife on hikes, etc.)? My budget is about $500. I'm looking at this Nikon 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6. The general consensus seems to be that it's quite good up to 200 and then isn't so great after that.
Are there any better alternatives? (I'm looking at the used market as well, and the above lens is about ~$350 there, and my camera is a D5600).
This 70-300mm will give you plenty of reach. From what I understand it's a pretty good zoom lens for the price, although a bit large. It should be a step up from the cheaper version. On the other hand, the 55-200mm is a budget option and a good compliment to the kit lens, however I have to say the build quality is very cheap. I don't really like using mine because it feels so plasticy. The optical quality is solid, though.
You could also get a superzoom like the 18-140mm. That will give you a ton of range in one lens.
Of course! It depends on your budget and what you want to photograph, but I highly recommend the 35mm f/1.8 prime lens. You can find it used for even less than the price listed ($200) as well. The lens is really sharp and decent for landscape and portraits. You can set your 18-55mm to the 35mm focal length to see what it looks like.
If you want a higher focal length than your 18-55mm, look at the 55-200mm lens. It is a kit lens sometimes bundled with the 18-55mm. There's also a 70-300mm if you want the extra 100mm range. These are usually best for something you need to zoom in on, like sports and wildlife.
If you want something super wide, I recommend either a Tokina 11-20mm or the Tokina 11-16mm. The 11-20mm is the sharpest and fastest autofocus of the two, but it is slightly more expensive. They are both good lenses. These are great for astrophotography, landscapes, and indoor architecture shots.
Here is an example picture of what different focal lengths look like. I hope this was helpful! If you have any more questions or want me to clarify something, let me know.
stretching the budget to the 70-300 VR gets you a step up in image quality and focus speed: http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-70-300mm-4-5-5-6G-Digital-Cameras/dp/B000HJPK2C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449091555&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=300mm+vr
You'll struggle with this indoors and night games though to, you really need a fast lens for that.
Thanks, that's useful, I agree. Yes, that's the lens (specifically this one).
I'm probably a ways off from a completely new zoom, although the 500mm lens looks real nice.
Hey, all.
I'm heading to Israel in a couple of months and have never been before. I'm extremely excited to do as much shooting as possible while there, but I'd like to make sure I have the gear to take the best advantage I can.
I own a Nikon D3400 camera with a kit lens I hardly use. I also own a Nikkor AF-S DX 35mm f/1.8G prime lens that I use for most of my shooting. I mostly do portraits and street photography, though I'd also like to do more architectural / landscape photography while in Israel. What I'm looking for is a recommendation on what kind of lens would be best for this kind of work, and perhaps even a specific lens that would fit what I'm looking for - budget is at most around $600.
This is what I'm looking at right now.
Thanks for any advice you can give!
I hope you meant $200 for the 55-250mm, that is not a $300 lens :)
I got it with my kit and while I haven't taken many photos with it yet, it seems decent.
Regardless of your reasoning, it sounds like you want to compress the elements in your scene so distant objects appear closer (larger) to the foreground elements (like the bridge). This can be accomplished by using telephoto lenses. Look into getting the 55-250mm.
The camera is a rebel t1i and the 1st, 2nd, and 4th pictures were taken with a EFS 55-250mm. The 3rd and 5th were taken with a EF 70-300mm
Lens used for the 1st, 2nd, and 4th pictures:
https://www.amazon.com/Canon-55-250mm-Telephoto-discontinued-manufacturer/dp/B0011NVMO8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493053705&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=efs+55-250mm+canon+lens
I found the exact lens i use for the 3rd and 5th pictures
https://www.amazon.com/Canon-70-300mm-4-5-5-6-Lens-Cameras/dp/B0001G6U3Y/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493053232&amp;sr=8-11&amp;keywords=ef+70-300mm
Do you like this one?
https://www.amazon.com/Canon-EF-S-55-250mm-4-0-5-6-Telephoto/dp/B0011NVMO8
Dumb question: What’s the difference between these two lens?
https://smile.amazon.com/Canon-EF-S-55-250mm-4-0-5-6-Telephoto/dp/B0011NVMO8/ref=sr_1_17?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541175274&amp;rpp=bsm%3A%2F%2F%0D%0ACanon++++++++%5ECANON%7CEOS+REBEL%5EEOS+REBEL%7CT6%5ET6%7Cdropdown&amp;sr=1-17
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EFILVQU/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A34XSYLZECTRUU&amp;psc=1
I’m looking for this size in a used lens. I’m a beginner, and have these two already.
EF 50mm f/1.8 STM
EF-S10-18mm F4.5-5.6 IS STM
And the 18-55 kit lens.
What are them pros and cons of this lens? https://www.amazon.com/Canon-55-250mm-Telephoto-discontinued-manufacturer/dp/B0011NVMO8/ref=sr_1_12?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491638324&amp;sr=1-12&amp;keywords=canon
Hoping to spend under 150. In general, what is a good second lens? A telephoto, wide, etc...
https://www.amazon.com/Canon-EF-S-55-250mm-4-0-5-6-Telephoto/dp/B0011NVMO8
https://www.amazon.com/Canon-EF-S-55-250mm-F4-5-6-Cameras/dp/B00EFILVQU/ref=pd_sbs_421_t_1/134-5466414-1810016?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00EFILVQU&amp;pd_rd_r=1dddaed1-c70b-4c21-b73a-7c43a7f32c18&amp;pd_rd_w=JDAGN&amp;pd_rd_wg=ZWFkR&amp;pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&amp;pf_rd_r=SSKMF1R1GSJFDCH4PDSG&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=SSKMF1R1GSJFDCH4PDSG
https://www.amazon.com/Canon-55-250mm-Telephoto-International-Warranty/dp/B00EP71ETU/ref=pd_sbs_421_t_2/134-5466414-1810016?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00EP71ETU&amp;pd_rd_r=1dddaed1-c70b-4c21-b73a-7c43a7f32c18&amp;pd_rd_w=JDAGN&amp;pd_rd_wg=ZWFkR&amp;pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&amp;pf_rd_r=SSKMF1R1GSJFDCH4PDSG&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=SSKMF1R1GSJFDCH4PDSG
Also, what is the difference between these except the last being international and no warranty? What would you suggest? I don't see a difference between the first two.
Here are the two cameras compared.
I have the T2i and I love it. The T2i can do 1080p HD video and the D80 can't.
I would suggest getting the 55-250 lens because it has IS which makes a big difference. I've heard the image quality of the 70-300mm lens is not as good as the 55-250mm lens. And its not that much more money.
hmmmm since she was looking for superzooms, I don't think she'll appreciate the 50mm as much because she already has that field of view, same goes for the 24mm. The only advantage they have for her would be the wider aperture, helping her with low light situations.
You could get her a fisheye lens like the Rokinon 8mm f3.5 but honestly you take fisheye lenses for maybe once or twice and you get bored with it. You could also get her a macro lens, but again, those are one trick ponies. Unless you see her trying low light photography and/or playing with depth of field, don't think primes would suit her at this moment. Primes generally are better performing, but I think she values versatility more than that little extra performance that you get out of primes.
Sounds like she could like the Canon 55-250mm f/4-5.6 lens. There's three versions of this lens (but don't bother with the first one). second one is bit cheaper at 195 new. third one is more expensive at 300 bucks new, but it has quieter autofocus, instant manual focus (meaning you don't have to bother with the AF to MF switch to get manual focus, you just turn the focus ring) and it can focus a bit closer than the second one (second one focuses up to 3.6' or 1.1m, third one focuses up to 2.8', or .85m).
It's not a big difference, but you do get a slight bit more functionality for that extra dough.
Well I hope you look into my suggestion. And tell her the first photo with the trees is fantastic!
I preface by saying I know almost nothing about photography.
My gf has a Canon Rebel T2i and recently we went on vacation to Iceland where she commented she wasn't taking the best pictures because she only had a kit lens.
I wanted to get her something around the $300-400. What would be the best bang for my buck? She likes doing wildlife and landscape photography.
I see these two lenses, are both of them together a good deal?
Zoom lens
Landscape Lens
Is there another lens in that price range that would be better than both of these combined?
Also, is it worth it getting a lens for a T2i, she was commenting that it was a beginner camera.
I am looking at 3 inexpensive lenses and I think I may have found the one. Haven't yet checked BH for some reason....(just realizing this now) anyway here they are. I think the refurbished STM is the best option.
STM 55-250
USM 75-300
55-250
I am very new but really want to play with something with range. I currently have a 50mm fixed. I love the pictures I get but either skill or the lens isn't allowing me the shots I want. Maybe both.
Imo, save up another $100 so you're in the $400 range and get an 8" dobsonian such as the Zhumell Z8, Orion Xt8, or Skywatcher 8.
Then you've got a big aperture scope in the dob that will show you some deep sky targets and clearer brighter views of the planets etc. and you can turn your 70mm EQ into your portable grab n go scope.
The next investment would be in better eyepieces, but the good news is any 1.25" eyepieces you buy will fit in both your old and new scopes.
Thanks for posting back. Is this the telescope that you were talking about?
http://www.amazon.com/Orion-SkyQuest-Classic-Dobsonian-Telescope/dp/B001DDW9V6
Anything you can tell me about it would be helpful. My dad has wanted a telescope for years and I really want to find the perfect one. Thanks!
Personally I'd get a dobsonian; more bang for your buck, but equatorial tracking can be pretty expensive with them. Without modifications though, you could get a sweet 8" scope for not very much.
I would say the best way to start in observing is to buy a simple Dobsonian telescope and a couple of Star catalogues. What you're looking for is the ability to gather a lot of light, not necesarilly magnification. Something like this will reveal many, many things:
http://www.amazon.com/Orion-SkyQuest-Classic-Dobsonian-Telescope/dp/B001DDW9V6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1310480268&amp;sr=8-1
Once you learn, and find you really enjoy it, then you might look at more expensive scopes or astrophotography. But the first fun...and it is fun, is to simply use your own eyes and hands to control a simple scope that gathers a lot of light. Good luck. If you have other questions please write me.
Well depending on how much they want for that telescope, you won’t want for much - it’s a nice piece of equipment with good clarity/contrast and intense magnification capabilities; your planetary view will be insane with the right eye pieces. If the other sub you’re referring to is r/astrophotography, they’re probably right - I haven’t looked too deep into AP on their level quite yet.
That being said, you don’t need an incredibly expensive telescope to get started, and astrophotography can be done on many levels. If you want to be able look at the Orion Nebula, but maybe be able to photograph Jupiter with a cell phone mounted to the eyepiece (after enjoying laying your own eyes on it, of course), this can be done for much less.
Hope this helps; reflectors are “cheap” (because they’re easy to make), if you aren’t sure about spending that much money to start out I definitely recommend going that route - either a dobsonian: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DDW9V6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xf5wCbC5CSXBS
Or if you’d rather the computerized “GoTo” scene (which requires calibration by “marking” 2 or 3 stars in the sky so the scope knows where you are): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZY9KOTE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0i5wCb6HWP53C
Both of those were just examples, obviously you can spend what you want on what you will. I don’t disagree with other people on buying “anywhere but amazon”, but I can’t be a hypocrite ;I got my $100 special (celestron astromaster 70AZ refractor... which I love lol) on amazon and it’s great for searching what’s out there. Unfortunately they also tend to have the best price.
If you feel like reading on your own, over at /r/astrophotography we have a pretty comprehensive Wiki geared toward helping you figure out which scope works for you. Keep in mind though it's with imaging in mind and not just basic observing.
Orion is a quality manufacturer, their gear is used pretty widely across the board with amateurs and enthusiasts for observation and astrophotography.
The first thing you need to do is have real expectations, all the cool space shots you see are always done with long exposures, usually stacked. This means that your camera sensor is opened up to accept a a lot of photons over a longer period of time, the resulting image ends up in way more detail and contrast than you would get with just viewing through the eyepiece. If you scroll down toward the bottom of this you'll see some comparisons of what you can expect to see.
If you don't plan on imaging, you essentially want the largest aperture scope you can afford, this will be a reflector like the one you linked. However I would look for a Dobsonian mount instead of a equatorial (tripod mount). You can get an 8" Reflector for just about $400. But this is a big footprint scope, heavier and not totally easy to tote around frequently. This is kind of a catch-22 because the way you will get the most out of this scope is to bring it to the darkest area possible, up into the mountains like you mentioned would be ideal.
A couple good examples would be either M31 (Andromeda) or M42 (Orion Nebula) both large and fairly distinct objects, M42 is actually the closest Nebula to us and that's one of the reasons it's so widely photographed and viewed. Andromeda with a 8' Reflector at a dark site would yield you something like this. On the other hand, an image from user /u/kindark with a less powerful scope but multiple stacked exposures was able to produce this. The former is more what you can expect to actually see.
> I am looking for a really good telescope that is between 100 to 150 dollars...200 would be pushing it. Does anyone have any good recommendations?
There is no "really good" telescope within your budget. An 8" Dobsonian would be ideal but it costs $330. Stretching your budget a little you could get a 4.5" one for $230.
Dobsonian is a type of mount - which is of the style: Alt-azimuth opposed to the other popular style: Equatorial
You can read about the differences here: http://science.howstuffworks.com/telescope5.htm
In short, Dobsonian style mounts are designed to be stable and easy to use but they're not ideal for long term tracking of objects in the sky for the use in say astrophotography. I would recommend this type for a beginner just because I find it easier to understand and use. It is also one of the cheaper solutions. Most Equatorial style mounts with a good telescope will cost you a good deal more than $300.
As for the 6" mirror. It's really quite simple. The bigger the mirror, the more light it collects and the better the image will be. Besides overall quality of the telescope, location, pollution, etc.. bigger is ALWAYS better. 6" is a good starting point. the XT8 (8" version) of the same maker is also a good choice, but would cost you a bit more than $300 - coming in at around $350 + accessories / shipping.
Take a look at these pictures: http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/product-gallery/B001DDW9V6/ref=cm_ciu_pdp_images_1?ie=UTF8&amp;index=1
Taken from a XT8. they will give you an idea of what you'll be able to see with these telescopes.
According to the OP this was taken with an XT8, which is a very modestly priced telescope: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001DDW9V6/
Yeah, I personally use this lens: https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-17-50mm-Aperture-Standard-Digital/dp/B003A6H27K/ref=sr_1_2?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465782554&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=sigma+17-50. It is pretty great for the price. you can find it cheaper on ebay as well.
Nope. Actually, comparing our lenses a bit more closely... I have a different model lol. This is the one I have
https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-17-50mm-Aperture-Standard-Digital/dp/B003A6H27K?sa-no-redirect=1
Sorry--I guess I glossed over the zoom specs (the 24-70) and just went by appearance. Nevertheless, great lenses!
I wonder if there are different versions if it, this is the one I have
Sigma 583306 17-50mm f2.8 EX... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003A6H27K?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Are you using a kit lens? If so, recommend upgrading to a better lens. I have a sigma lens that I’ve been quite happy with. It’s just an all around lens. Nothing specialized. I also am using a rebel T3. If you can afford it, look into lenses with even higher f-stops. Anything to reduce the time you need the shutter open.
Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 EX DC OS HSM FLD Large Aperture Standard Zoom Lens for Canon Digital DSLR Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003A6H27K/
Would really recommend a tripod and a remote shutter to minimize camera shake. Even pressing the shutter button can jostle the camera enough to ruin a photo. You can use the timer but that can slow you down and you might miss a good shot
Pixel RC-201 Remote Shutter... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005TCMW7S
Regarding focus. Plan ahead. Get your focus prepped during the day by focusing on some thing far off like mountains. Then lock that down with tape or something. Also turn off auto focus. If the lens has image stabilization. I’ve heard that if your camera is already stabilized, the stabilization in the lens could work against you because the components in the lens are allowed to shift in anticipation for shake.
Get rid of light pollution. Turn off your display and don’t use your phone. Get your eyes as used to the dark as possible.
Hope these help.
Do you plan on staying crop frame and enjoy the 18mm wide angle? This lens is optically stabilized which will help significantly with your videos.
If you don't care for stabilization and need longer than 18 I would suggest something like Tamron's 28-75mm 2.8. Very cheap for a full frame 2.8 zoom. I own one and it's incredibly sharp.
You could go first party with this, but you'll have to spend $900+
A Canon EOS 500D SLR; and I took the standard kit lens (18-55mm) with me, for weight reasons. It's my most versatile and my worst lens... Been thinking about getting the 17-55mm lens for long hikes, which is as versatile, a lot heavier, but also a lot better in quality.
> Do they make 1.8 EF-S?
The mount on the lens, EF or EF-S, isn't what applies the crop factor. It's the sensor on your body. Unless you have a full frame body, like the 5D, the 50mm f/1.8 lens will have a smaller field of view.
There are other prime lenses (fixed focal length lens) you can look at (scroll down to the 'Wide-Angle' section) if you want something wider.
If you want a zoom lens check out these lenses if you'd like to supplant your kit lens: the Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM Lens or the Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 or the Tamron AF 17-50mm F/2.8. (Disclaimer: I have not used any of these three lenses and cannot attest to their quaility)
Agreed that it all depends on the specific lens you are looking at. Taken with a grain of salt, I would trust user reviews, image searches from somewhere like pbase.com and photography-on-the.net to give you an idea of the what lens is capable of and what caliber/type of photographers generally use it.
Here is a search on that Tamron 10-24 from pbase.com
Personally, I have the Tamron 17-50 and couldn't be happier, given the price and the quality for my Canon XTi. However, I probably would have bought the Canon 17-55 f/2.8 if I had the money. I have used the Sigma 30mm and thought it was very good. I also have the Sigma 10-22 and my wife has the Tamron 18-270. The 10-22 can be fairly sharp and the 18-270 is pretty good for what it is. One can't expect tack sharpness and perfection from a super zoom like that.
.
tl;dr - totally depends on the actual lens model.
Hi ! My first camera was a canon 70D too ! A great all around camera especially if you are into videography. About what lenses you should get, you should definitely buy the nifty fifty, it is just a fantastic lens for its price !
If you are a video enthusiast, you should consider buying the Sigma 17-50mm f2.8 which has a great IQ, a nice optical stabilizer and a constant f2.8, video I made with the sigma+70d here.
Or if you can afford a canon lens, the equivalent that is this one.
Anyway, the 70D is probably one of the best camera out there to start. Make sure to read a lot of books about photography, exposure, etc.. And even consider joining /r/photoclass2017/ !
Have a great day !
I have a 5D with two lenses: a 24-105mm f/4 and a 50mm f/1.8. I'm really into astrophotography and I've tried it a handful of times with what I have but my results are below average. My camera's ISO only goes up to 1200 so I have to work with that.
I'm looking for a lens around $500, something like this. Would this be a good fit for astrophotography? Just want a wide angle lens with the largest aperture possible.
Thank you. I currently shoot with a Canon 70d. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DMS0GTC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1395845698&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40
For macro I use either the canon 100mm macro
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002NEGTSI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1395845750&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40
or the Tamron 180mm macro.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000AERK6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1395845816&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SX200_QL40
Most of the wider shots and room pictures are shot using a canon 17-55mm http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EW8074?pc_redir=1395684481&amp;robot_redir=1
Fisheye shots are with the canon fisheye 8-15mm
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0040X4OZU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1395845895&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SX200_QL40
> What about the issues I've seen with that tamron lens and its focus and sharpness issues?
They're real. But sometimes you risk more issues like that when paying less.
> Is this a good lens?
It's excellent but also takes up almost all of your budget.
What about the issues I've seen with that tamron lens and its focus and sharpness issues?
Is this a good lens?
You are MUCH better off with the Canon 17-55. It doesn't have a red ring around it but it's a phenomenal run-n-gun lens. We use it on REDs all the time.
Amazon pranked me a year ago. I ordered this lens:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EW8074/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And instead got a used sigma lens in the box.
Amazon got me a replacement after some confusion though. Same thing happened this year with some wireless headphones from Amazon. Someone returned some cheaper head phones in the wireless box. People suck.
It’s this one : Nikon 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6G ED IF AF-S VR Nikkor Zoom Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HJPK2C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4xNIAbRZJWGS8
I haven’t tried the AF-P lens but this lens is soft beyond 200mm. I’m considering upgrading to the 70-200 f/2.8 though.
Hi, i am wondering what the difference is between $150 lens and $400 lens. I have a nikon D3200 with kit lens rn and im looking to get the 70-300mm. Anyways, whats the difference in the lenses below:
The one im looking to get ($150): https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-70-300mm-Motorized-Telephoto-Digital/dp/B0012X43P2/ref=sr_1_12?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469401990&amp;sr=1-12&amp;keywords=nikon+70-300
The expensive one ($400): https://www.amazon.com/Nikon-70-300mm-4-5-5-6G-Digital-Cameras/dp/B000HJPK2C/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469402065&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=nikon+70-300
Another cheaper one: https://www.amazon.com/Tamron-70-300mm-4-0-5-6-Digital-A17NII/dp/B0012UUP02/ref=sr_1_4?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469402084&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=nikon+70-300
and this one but im not too sure
Consider the 70-300mm or 55-300mm or 300mm f/4 instead. The first is a very good quality zoom lens that will allow you to change zoom for framing, the second is a cheaper version of the same, and the third is a very good prime. I have the 55-300mm and I found that I use it for birds and such, almost 99% of the time at 300mm. I think if I were to reconsider the purchase I would go for the 300mm f/4, epecially because it allows the use of teleconverters. If you go for the 18-300mm, you sacrifice a large amount of quality in all focal lengths. It isn't worth it. With the budget you have for the 18-300mm, you can get the 70-300mm and gain quite a lot of quality or the 300mm prime and find yourself with an amazing birding/wildlife lens. If you stick a 2x teleconverter on there, you have 960mm f/8 lens on an APS-C body - basically a telescope, but also amazing for birds (but a little lacking in low light).
Is it worth it to buy FX lenses for a DX/APS-C camera?I'm looking at picking up this Nikon 70-300mm as my first decent lens beyond my kit lens that came with my D3300. I was told by a fellow photographer that I should just save the extra money and get something like this instead. I don't believe I'll ever be purchasing a full frame camera as I cannot justify the cost for a simple hobby. I'm mostly getting into photography just to get myself outside and off my ass. I also really enjoy a creative outlet and the post-processing stuff is very helpful in that regard.So long story short, does that Tamron lens really gain me anything other than a faster aperture and the ability to upgrade to a full frame body down the road, however unlikely that may be?
I shoot Canon, but for that Budget Nikon has a much better selection. Body doesn't matter so much, but a faster frame rate and more AF points will be helpful for birds. If you can afford it, I would recommend a d7200. If not, go for the d5500. You could even go super cheap and buy a refurbed older body (d7000 etc.).
The d7200 has a faster frame rate, more AF points, more cross type AF points, and a more rugged build. The d5500 has a tilty touch screen, and is much lighter. Most other differences are trivial (sensor is exactly the same).
For a lens, I can personally recommend the 18-200mm VR II DX f/3.5-5.6 (~$600). It's a great zoom for just about anything. If you need to get tighter, consider the 70-300mm VR
DXFX f/4.5-5.6 for a little less money. If you want to spend a little bit more, I also had a 28-300mm VR FX f/3.5-5.6 (~$1000), which is an absolutely fantastic, but extremely heavy lens. Also much more expensive.If your dad's only going to be shooting birds and wildlife, I would say the tighter 70-300mm would be great. For a do-all zoom, I would go for the 18-200mm or the 28-300mm if I could afford it.
These are just my personal reccomendations, somebody might have some better suggestions.
Here are the amazon links:
Nikon d5500
Nikon d7200
Nikon 18-200mm VR II DX
Nikon 70-300mm VR
DXFXNikon 28-300mm VR FXSee edit belowEdit: mistakes
Edit 2: I just realized there's an 18-300mm VR DX for the same price as the 28-300mm VR FX, which would make much more sense if you plan on sticking with DX. Optics should be virtually the same, just better designed for DX.
Most brands, whether we're talking cannon, nikon, pentax etc, will have both brand name and off brand macro lenses available. Sigma makes a pretty good lens.
As I said, my 70-300VR (which isn't a macro) will still take decent macros, so you don't absolutely have to have a 1:1 lens.
Thanks for the reply!
I've just never had luck trying to record with it.. I have a Nikon 70-300 that I use with it and while trying to record I just have issues with focusing and zooming smoothly etc..
This one?
Sorry to keep up with questions and links, but is thiswhat you're talking about?
I want to get a new telephoto lens, I currently have a ancient Nikon 70-300 without image stabilization and it's crap, and I am looking at the Tamron AF 70-300mm f/4.0-5.6 SP Di VC USD XLD or the Nikon 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6G ED IF AF-S VR
Should I bother with either of these? I don't want to spend that much money on another disappointing lens, but a really good telephoto is way out of my budget at the moment. I couldn't spend more than around $800 CAD (so like $3.50 USD - jokes, more like 500-600USD) and alternatively I just wait and save and take photos with other lenses and of other things. I'm a hobbyist.
is this lens the 70-300 vr https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HJPK2C/ref=twister_B01IDA4G3K?_encoding=UTF8&amp;th=1
Hi, this is a rather interesting question! First of, congratulations on your decision to get the D7100! There are plenty of Nikon Len(s) to choose from and given that you might eventually head towards more wildlife and landscape kind of photography you will need mainly 2 kinds of lens. This is based on my opinion and the thoughts may vary differently across different photographers.
Wildlife Lens:
Landscape Lens:
Quality of Lens:
Conclusion:
I hope some of my basic insights can narrow down your choice of lens and help you understand better based on the sources I have provided, alternatively you might wanna check youtube out too for extra information, there are lots of peeps there who do reviews :)
I shot stunning equine pictures with a Nikkor 70-300 VR on a crop camera. I would take your longest zoom. How far does your kit reach?
You generally have a lot of things going for you. Lots of light. The owners and riders have put enormous work into their horses and their sport. You are generally shooting up at the riders and they look heroic/equestrian
Treat it like sports photography and try and freeze them with 1/500th of a second or faster shots. Get on the end of the ring and shoot them oncoming with a long zoom. Think about what is behind them.
Could anyone explain to me the differences between these two lens? Could someone also tell me which would be better and why? The more detail the better! If which camera they will be used on matters... It'll be a Nikon D5200.
Lens 1: Nikon 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6G ED IF AF-S VR
Lens 2: Nikon 55-300mm f/4.5-5.6G ED VR AF-S DX
I have a friend that thinks its useless as well. I have had a few debates with her about it. I have this zoom lens
http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-70-300mm-4-5-5-6G-Digital-Cameras/dp/B000HJPK2C/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;s=electronics&amp;qid=1268238244&amp;sr=8-4
And while it wont work miracles in low light, it does help. Even in daylight it helps to get solid shots. These were both taken on a boat. Neither are good photos, just junk stuff, but help illustrate some VR help. The one was taken at 1/500 other at 1/1000 so the help may be dubious, but the one was at 300mm. Couldnt find any other long shots I took from a boat =)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23130820@N05/3486729087/in/set-72157617492273220/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23130820@N05/3535315600/in/set-72157618132893297/
Gear
Nikon 70-300 f/4.5G
Nikon D610
Hoya Pro ND 1000
Settings
1/4000
300mm
f/40
ISO 50
I also have a D3300 and I just received my 70-300mm. I decided on this after about 2 weeks of researching telephoto lenses. Since there are newer models of the lens the price of this one has dropped to a nice price range for my entry into a zoom lens. The autofocus is impressive for an older lens and the stabilization is nice, although it took some getting used to at first. It doesn't stabilize when not actively shooting. It only kicks in after autofocusing, or I guess, whenever pressing half-way down on the shutter button. It took some getting used to as my kit lens is always stabilized.
I love it so far. I have only taken it out once at dusk/sunset and the low light performance was excellent. I got a neat picture of a boat dog.
Follow up to the other comment I posted: I have a Canon T3 w/ 50mm 1.8 STM and the 18-55mm kit lens. I want more lenses such as something a step up from the kit lens, and a longer one for sports or wildlife. Thing is as a college student I don't have a ton of money to throw around so sub $300 lenses are ideal if still a little pricey to me. I liked the 55-250mm but hear it's not that good.
Any suggestions of lenses I should pick up, not just for my examples I gave but in general lenses that are good for the T3? I know it's kind of a hard question given my budget
Hey all,
Years ago I purchased a Rebel T2i that came with a 18-55mm IS lens. I then added on a 55-250mm IS II and a 55mm.
I haven't shot with them as much as I should have, but i'm now getting back into it. I'm about to add hood lenses to all of them (tip from a Youtube video I saw) and I will get out and start shooting more. My interest range from landscape, structures, portrait and anything really. I do have two questions though!
Thanks!
Hello everybody. I know there's probably not much you can do to help me with my current dilemma, but I really appreciate your help.
So here's the deal: I have about $200 to spend on lenses, and I have two I'm deciding between. They have very different purposes, quality, and benefits. I can't decide which one I'll use more. Here they are.
For this, the benefits are that it is very small, and very light. I'm going to Iceland soon, and I feel like having a small, very portable lens might be a really big benefit. Also, the image quality is supposed to be pretty good.
On the other hand, that focal length is already covered by my 18-55mm kit lens. Is the image quality really good enough to justify spending $160?
This has a great zoom range, and is perfect for taking pictures of cycling, my other hobby. However, it's really big.
Which should I get?
I know you can't solve my problems for me, but do you have any advice? In case it's important, I currently have a Canon t3i with 18-55mm kit lens.
You are right, lenses are definitely more important, especially because it seems like most of your shots will be landscapes, and you'll have plenty of time to set up the composition. You won't need expensive bodies.
Get a Canon Rebel; they're good cameras and will give you as much functionality as you'll be able to use - as this is your first DSLR.
As lenses go, I would recommend a Tamron 17-50 non-VC, which is on par with the Canon 17-40 L lens. Also, you might want to consider a telephoto; my suggestion for this would be the Canon 55-250 IS, which is also a great lens.
You don't state a budget, but one of the cheapest will be Canon's 55-250 IS:
http://www.amazon.com/Canon-55-250mm-4-0-5-6-Telephoto-Digital/dp/B0011NVMO8
It'll be pretty effective, and lightweight. The only way you could do better for a similar size range is to go for the Canon 70-300 IS - it gets you slightly more range but is definitely bigger and more expensive.
If you really, really want to go compact, the smallest I know of is Sigma's 55-200. Be aware that it doesn't have IS though, so keeping the camera steady enough may be difficult:
http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-55-200mm-Telephoto-Digital-Cameras/dp/B0001VQ12Y/ref=sr_1_42?ie=UTF8&amp;s=photo&amp;qid=1265079984&amp;sr=1-42
Also you might want to check with the particular venue about what kinds of cameras they will allow. Many of them have restrictions such as no lenses longer than 3 inches, or no SLRs entirely.
Hi guys, I am not sure whether this is a good place to post this, so please feel free to delete if it violates the rules.
I am looking to upgrade from a Canon T3 to a smaller, potentially mirrorless, camera. I would like to sell my T3 + gear and use that cash toward the new camera.
What is a reasonable price to ask for this stuff:
Canon EOS Rebel T3 Digital SLR Camera DS126291
http://www.amazon.com/Canon-Digital-18-55mm-discontinued-manufacturer/dp/B004J3Y9U6
Canon Zoom Lens EF-S 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6 IS II
http://www.amazon.com/Canon-EF-S-18-55mm-3-5-5-6-Lens/dp/B000V5K3FG
Tiffen 58mm UV Protection Filter
http://www.amazon.com/Tiffen-58mm-UV-Protection-Filter/dp/B00004ZCJI
Case Logic SLRC-201 SLR Zoom Holster (Black)
http://www.amazon.com/Case-Logic-SLRC-201-Holster-Black/dp/B001TZUS98
AmazonBasics Backpack for SLR/DSLR Cameras and Accessories - Black
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Backpack-DSLR-Cameras-Accessories/dp/B002VPE1WK
Generic 58mm Hood
Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Camera Lens - Fixed
http://www.amazon.com/Canon-50mm-1-8-Camera-Lens/dp/B00007E7JU
Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4.0-5.6 IS II Telephoto Zoom Lens
http://www.amazon.com/Canon-55-250mm-Telephoto-discontinued-manufacturer/dp/B0011NVMO8
Thanks!
> It sounds like the 250 IS might be the way I want to go for my specific needs at this point, though!
Do you mean this lens?
https://www.amazon.com/Canon-55-250mm-Telephoto-discontinued-manufacturer/dp/B0011NVMO8
I have the same lens, it's pretty great for the price! I wouldn't trade the IS for an extra 50mm. Also since it's discontinued, your only option is the new STM version of the lens. I think it's maybe $50 more than the older model, and should focus faster.
I shot with a 7D & my 55-250 mm lens which to be totally honest I don't love.
That would give you an advantage! 😃
I would recommend either the 70-300mm or 55-200mm. There's a price difference of course, but both great choices. Naturally a benefit of having an extra 100mm. Though make sure to get the lens with IS because it will make a difference. They do sell a 70-300mm lens without IS but I'd avoid.
https://www.amazon.ca/Canon-70-300mm-4-5-6-Lens-Cameras/dp/B0007Y794O
https://www.amazon.ca/Canon-55-250mm-Telephoto-Stabilized-2044B002/dp/B0011NVMO8
So you think a 70-200 would be good enough alone for just starting out?
No need to buy a 50mm prime lens?
This is the 70-200 I was thinking about buying for her. There is also this one. I'm not really sure the difference except for price.
This is the 50mm
Definitely consider the plastic fantastic (F1.8/50mm) and maybe this: 55-250mm f/4.0-5.6 IS.
Your response is exactly what I need.
I currently have a Canon EF 55-250 and a Canon Ef 18-55.
This is the amazon page and that's definitely something to consider. I already have this lens which isn't macro but it does well if a subject is 3.5 ft away
I think That's the wrong lens. You want the 55-250 is stm.
If you're going with the older one I'd get it from amazon
Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4.0-5.6 IS II Telephoto Zoom Lens (discontinued by manufacturer) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0011NVMO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OJEGzbCK605W9
Hello r/photography!
I recently saved up enough money to buy my first serious camera. This Cannon EOS Rebel T3 caught my attention and I keep reading in the reviews that it is an excellent entry level camera. Is that a true statement? I would be willing to shell out some extra money for this T3i if it would be a better buy.
This Cannon EF-S 55-250mm f/4.0-5.6 or this Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 seem like good lenses to go along with them, but are they too much to soon?
Again, this would be my first major camera purchase. Would this be a solid purchase or is there another cheaper camera that would be just as good?
I recently went on a once in a lifetime trip to France for two weeks, so hopefully I can provide some helpful advice/insight.
First, and I cannot stress this enough, have enough memory! I'd recommend bringing at least 16GB, if not more.
I brought two 8GB cards to France and transfered them to my computer each night. I never used the second card, however, if I wouldn't have had the luxury of transferring to a laptop each night, I would have quickly exceeded this.
If you are able to bring a computer or other means by which to back up your photos, I'd STRONGLY recommend it. It's great peace of mind to not have to worry about losing pictures or running out of room.
Second, DO NOT use the Auto mode, that just makes your DSLR a big point and shoot. A lot of people recommend using M(anual), but it can be a little overwhelming if you're not used to your camera. The Av (Aperture Priority) mode is great because it allows you to select the aperture value you want (which will effect what's in focus and Depth of Field) while automatically determining the rest. Constipated_Help gave you some very sound advice on exposure, so follow that if you're able.
Third, make sure you have the right accessories. A tripod would be great for landscape shots. The Dolica Proline is a great value at 40$. At least one extra battery would be good to have, especially if you will not be able to recharge during the trip. An Opteka t2i battery can be had for 12$, and works with your Canon charger.
If you can swing it, a new lens would be good to have since the lens is the determining factor of image quality. If you like to "zoom" and isolate subjects, you'll want a telephoto. The Canon 55-250 IS is a great deal at 240$. If you like wide angle, you'll need an ultra wide. These will typically run above 400$. I have a Tokina 11-16 and I am very pleased. As others have recommended, the Canon 50 1.8 is an incredible deal at 100$ and provides creative options with it's wide aperture.
A nice bag is also a good thing to have. You can buy either a messenger style, a holster or a backpack. Filters would also be nice, but they're not a necessity.
I hope this can help. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. I'd be glad to (try to) help! :)
For that budget the only one you can get new is the 55-25mm canon http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0011NVMO8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1410155994&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40
However there is the canon 70-200 f4 L non IS that would also work well, you will have to buy it used and it does not have image stabilisation (meaning you will need a fast shutter speed, but for sports you probably need that already) http://m.ebay.com/itm/221540457666?nav=SEARCH
If you can get the used 70-200 f4 L non is used for cheap near you go for that
Awesome! A user in this thread linked this lens as a suggestion on eBay. I'm always hesitant over buying over eBay over the fear of the product being damaged and possible long delivery. Would it be worth it over this lens I previously linked to you?
This lens is pretty cheap. It's a kit lens that came with my t3i. Took this photo with it today.
I bought this camera two years ago and have loved it. Feel free to ask me any questions about it.
Lowest price the 60D has ever been, probably because of the recent release of its successor, the 70D. Check out this page for more information on the lens bundle deals
If you're locked into purchasing from Amazon, you have these options for an 8" dob:
$355
https://www.amazon.com/SkyWatcher-S11610-Traditional-Dobsonian-8-Inch/dp/B00Z4G3PRK/
$390 but out of stock until August 4th:
https://www.amazon.com/Orion-8945-SkyQuest-Dobsonian-Telescope/dp/B001DDW9V6/
http://www.amazon.com/Orion-8945-SkyQuest-Dobsonian-Telescope/dp/B001DDW9V6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406655799&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Orion+Telescope
http://www.amazon.com/Orion-9851-SpaceProbe-Reflector-Telescope/dp/B0000XMSWK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406655799&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=Orion+Telescope
http://www.amazon.com/Orion-10019-IntelliScope-Dobsonian-Telescope/dp/B000E1TNGW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406655799&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=Orion+Telescope
Protip: follow NASA's rule. Bigger the mirror, greater the clarity.
What budget are we talking here? On virtually every astronomy sub/site you'll find this little beauty being recommended.
Check out Orion's 8 inch dobsonian reflector telescope. Its on wheels so you can roll it in and out of your home easily and they have a sale every year before xmas for around 3-400 bucks. I have their astro 90mm refractor and love it for its price and portability. One day ill grab that dobsonian too.
Edit: link for the telescope
You and others should look into buying a telescope and driving out to some dark skies to do some of your own observing. An 8" dobsonian like an Orion XT8 is affordable and allows you to see a lot of cool stuff. Join a local astronomy club too.
So right now I'm deciding between these three telescopes, including the ones you recommended (thanks!).
http://www.amazon.com/Vixen-39951-A70Lf-Telescope-Porta/dp/B0027VSSU4
http://www.amazon.com/Orion-8944-SkyQuest-Dobsonian-Telescope/dp/B001DDW9UW
http://www.amazon.com/Orion-8945-SkyQuest-Dobsonian-Telescope/dp/B001DDW9V6
Do you think that these are reasonable deals and prices?
Imho it looks vastly overpriced for what it is - the standard 650mm FL celestron tube with a computer mount.
Better would be this
Or maybe a dobsonian
Also allow some room to buy some eyepieces
Check out the links in the side bar.
According to this, it's an Orion xt8 $350 and it's great for looking at the moon.
Hi,
So I have been convinced not to go for the motorized telescope(as much as I like little motors going purr)
This has been recommended
http://www.amazon.co.uk/WATCHER-SKYLINER-PARABOLIC-DOBSONIAN-TELESCOPE/dp/B00B0GV1N8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449523596&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=sky-watcher+8
and it beats this
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Orion-SkyQuest-Classic-Dobsonian-Telescope/dp/B001DDW9V6/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449673307&amp;sr=8-18-spons&amp;keywords=dobsonian+telescope&amp;psc=1
Both are comfortably under budget, should I pick one or are there other Dobsonians around the €700 budget ?
Thanks
XT8
https://www.amazon.com/Orion-8945-SkyQuest-Dobsonian-Telescope/dp/B001DDW9V6/ref=sr_1_3?crid=D6DJI7P4OQ1D&amp;keywords=xt8+telescope&amp;qid=1575050736&amp;sprefix=xt8+tel%2Caps%2C203&amp;sr=8-3
Here's the XT8 plus (come's with better focuser and some extra things.
https://www.amazon.com/Orion-SkyQuest-Dobsonian-Reflector-Telescope/dp/B07KWKKN5C/ref=sr_1_4?crid=D6DJI7P4OQ1D&amp;keywords=xt8+telescope&amp;qid=1575050736&amp;sprefix=xt8+tel%2Caps%2C203&amp;sr=8-4
This is the Apertura AD8. It's pretty much the most recommended if you can afford it. It's the right size between being able to handle/portability (it's still huge though) and being able to see things. It's the one I wound up getting for my son/me. It comes with all the bells and whistles except some upgraded eyepieces, which you should get with any telescope you buy. I didn't want to put myself in the position of every time I pull out my telescope I would think "What if I had gotten the AD8..."
https://www.highpointscientific.com/apertura-ad8-8inch-dobsonian-telescope-ad8
If you get the 6" in a light-polluted area, you'll wonder "What would this look like under some really dark skies??" If you get the 6" in a really dark sky area, you'll wonder "what would this look like with an 8"??"
None of those are Dobsonians. Dobsonians are relfectors (Which is what they are) and a Dobsonian mount. Many people recommend the XT8. I personally have the skywatcher 6 inch dob
https://www.amazon.com/Orion-8945-SkyQuest-Dobsonian-Telescope/dp/B001DDW9V6
Is orion xt8 similar to z8?
The prices are almost identical.
This is taken from my Samsung Galaxy S6 camera through an [Orion 8945 SkyQuest XT8 Classic Dobsonian Telescope] (https://www.amazon.com/Orion-8945-SkyQuest-Dobsonian-Telescope/dp/B001DDW9V6)
That is some awesome advice. Other people are recommending a dob as well. Do you know any thing about this one?
http://www.amazon.com/Orion-SkyQuest-XT8-Dobsonian-Telescope/dp/B001DDW9V6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1369432158&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=orion+skyquest+xt8
Also, for $30 more they have this option which to me sounds like it might be worth it?
http://www.amazon.com/Orion-Classic-Dobsonian-Telescope-Beginner/dp/B003ZDEUS2/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1369432158&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=orion+skyquest+xt8
Or do you recommend any dobs?
Okay gonna [order the XT8].(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DDW9V6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)
And this as advised by another redditor, anything else I need besides maybe a case?
I actually was just saying that I need a new wallet because mine is falling apart! I would love the normal sized wallet.
A telescope of course!
How were you able to volunteer in Thailand? I got into Peace Corps. So I wanted to know how other people's experiences volunteering abroad are.
Why not get the Sigma 17-50/2.8 instead for £260 or even cheaper used?Ca dépend des modèles. Certains Sigma valent largement les Canon, pour un prix souvent plus bas. Il y a des tests très poussés sur les sites dédiés a la photo (focus-numerique.com, bhphotovideo.com, dpreview.com, etc...) où tu pourras retrouver des comparaisons Canon vs Sigma vs Tamron.
Le Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 EX OS HSM ou le [SIGMA 17-70MM F/2.8-4 DC OS HSM CONTEMPORARY] (https://www.amazon.fr/Sigma-Objectif-17-70-Macro-Contemporary/dp/B00AXZYY86/ref=sr_1_3?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500471685&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=sigma+canon) sont de bons objectifs, bien moins cher que le Canon 17-55 f/2.8.
J'ai commencé avec un Sigma 18-50 f/2.8 et je possède maintenant le Canon. La qualité est un peu meilleur certes, mais je ne trouve pas que ca justifie les 300 euros de plus et je recommande le Sigma sans problème. Pour photographier des animaux il faut souvent garder une distance et/ou pouvoir zoomer, et là, pas de miracles il faudra un objectif qui aille jusqu’à 300mm. J'avais un canon premier prix sans stabilisateur qui etait pas fou, là j'ai un Tamron 70-300 avec stabilisateur (env. 350euro) et ca fait le taf.
I just purchased a new lens, and I realize I have no real appreciative knowledge about lens filters. All I really know is that I have an inclination that it will protect the lens itself from damage. I usually shoot landscape (nature, parks), or nighttime (milkyway, stars). Is a lens filter like this one cheaping out? It seems to have positive reviews, but I thought I'd ask you all! I would like to protect the lens, but I don't want to degrade the quality of the lens. Thanks!
Maybe the 55-250mm STM if you want to go longer? It's got IS and is a good buy from what I've seen. Otherwise you could look at the 17-50 2.8 from Sigma. It's getting more expensive, but if you like the focal length of your kit lens it's basically a better version of it. Lets in 4 times more light at 50mm than the kit lens and has IS also.
Which zoom lenses would be best for night time street photography? I have a D3300 with 35mm prime which has been doing really good so far, but I'm thinking to replace it (although replacing a prime for a zoom for low light photos is a downgrade) with zoom lenses for the versatility because I've been increasingly needing zoom for the event photography I take at school. I've looked at the Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8, and Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8. I want to keep it under $600 in terms of cost, but yeah, if I were to replace my 35mm prime for zoom, which zoom would be the best for nighttime street photos?
I am interested in the Sigma 17-50. Is this the exact model by chance?
http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-17-50mm-2-8-Aperture-Canon/dp/B003A6H27K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421096907&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sigma+17-50mm+f2.8
EDIT: I sent you a PM.
Are you talking about This lens? It seems like something I would be interested in, how is buying lenses used? There are a few in the low mid 300 range that are listed as "Like New" that I could consider picking up.
I used to own a Sigma 17-50mm f2.8 with optical stabilization back when I had a t2i and was very pleased with it. I'd recommend it for a general purpose lens and a good upgrade from the kit. Amazon has used ones as low as $320. This lens is not designed to work with full frame cameras though.
http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-17-50mm-2-8-Aperture-Canon/dp/B003A6H27K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420669004&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=17+50+2.8
You can replace the Canon 18-55mm with a refurbished Canon certified STM version for $88, or if you want to upgrade, see Amazon or Ebay for a new or used Sigma 17-55 mm with a Canon mount; new is $297. Either is good, but if you were going to spend money, I'd recommend the Sigma. Once you learn more about photography, you can do more with the Sigma. In the meantime, look on YouTube for macro photography tutorials; you don't usually want to use auto focus in macro so the 18-55mm lens you have is fine for now.
Canon 18-55mm STM, $88 Amazon:
Canon 8114B002 EF-S 18-55mm is STM (Certified Refurbished) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L9IRHU8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_vfGTCb5KQM9P6
Amazon:
Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 EX DC OS HSM FLD Zoom Lens for Canon Digital DSLR Camera, $297 new: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003A6H27K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PgGTCbM90G4RG
Actually the Sigma is not too far out of my budget. Can you tell me why you recommend it among the enormous myriad of options? I found this on Amazon, is this model compatible with the T5i?
Thank you again for the advice, much appreciated!
If I was buying a new camera today, I'd get a refurbished body-only D7100 and the Sigma 17-50. I also already have use of a Tamron 70-200 2.8 VC for the time being, though, so I'd be looking to complement that lens. If you wanted a prime, the 35 1.8 can be had for just under $200, or you can look into the 50 1.8D for just over $100, or the 85mm 1.8 for about $400. Pair all 3 together and you have a normal lens and two telephoto options.
Really, though, if your friends have Nikon gear, I'd see what you could work out in terms of borrowing lenses, and maybe even cameras, to try out. If they're protective of their gear, see if you can at least tag along with them the next time they go out to shoot. It'll give you a better idea of what you like shooting and what focal lengths you will need.
Most of the lenses you mentioned have a good bit of telephoto zoom--out to 140, 200, or even 300. Good telephoto zooms aren't cheap, so a variable aperture superzoom like the 55-200 or 70-300 might be all that's in your budget. I've seen the 70-300 VR recommended a bit on here.
I don't know about bodycams per se. However, I do usually carry around a sport camera with me as part of my EDC. Of course there's my cellphone, but that could get rather cumbersome and distracting when trying to focus on your weapon.
Ridiculous? Not as much as you'd think.
Feasible? Absolutely.
With the low cost of sport cameras, it wouldn't take much of an investment to have one on you at all times. You can get relatively inexpensive cameras for $40 that work reliably and have options to continually record. Adding a clip for a pocket or belt wouldn't prove too difficult.
Even smartphones have apps that can be made to record with voice commands. Even better they can stream the video real-time to a remote location that backs up the video should anything happen to the phone.
What I am looking into is a mountable gun camera that either has an easily accessible button, or, perhaps even better, switches on whenever the gun is unholstered. Something like this would work with a rail system attachment.
While not an eliminator, this instructable shows how to add a micro USB charging circuit to a UV-5r.
Or you could always just replace the car plug end of the eliminator with a 6mm barrel and run it off of one of those 5v/12v hybrid power banks
This is the link I posted before, I believe:
https://www.amazon.com/INSMA-8000mAh-Rechargeable-Circulation-discharge/dp/B01C46AW8W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474906337&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=CCTV+battery
This is the other style, this one has a lower capacity, but they have them in higher capacities, as well.. Just a little more expensive:
https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474906337&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=CCTV+battery
From their website:
>Is there a battery pack that can be used instead of hard-wiring the harness to the motorcycle battery?
>
>There are several 12v battery pack options that can be purchased separately that will work with the ACH-1 connectors such as this option from Talentcell. Please read the specifications carefully and be sure to use a battery pack that does not exceed 13v and works with the ACH-1 connectors. The length of time these batteries will power the helmet in AC mode will vary, but you can expect the following approximate times:
>
>3000mAh battery should power the helmet for around 2 hours
>
>6000mAh battery should power it for 4 hours
>
>12000mAh should work for 6 hours.
Given the sizes and capacities of the modern lithium batteries, it should be possible to build one with a built in battery.
Seems like this would do the trick? https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=asc_df_B00ME3ZH7C/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=309836137809&amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=16566657222778969287&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9004287&amp;hvtargid=pla-403917176387&amp;psc=1
Hi, check this out.
Yes it is a for a Blacksys Ch-100b. The reason I was asking is because I am interested in wiring a 12v power bank to my dash cam. For example something like this, and I wasn't sure if I could connect the power bank directly with a 12v DC cable, or if I needed to splice that cable to include those fuses in between. Looks like I should include the fuses in between right?
Here is a diagram of how I plan to connect everything together. Does this look right?
These are the two batteries I was looking at so far
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00&amp;linkCode=sl1&amp;tag=reemedcoa-20&amp;linkId=191c1678d31e4d67fd9a7cc984426bce
https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP1270-Rechargeable-Lead-Battery/dp/B003S1RQ2S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496774277&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=12v+lead+acid+battery
I'm trying to use the speaker enclosure as my case so the lithium might be a better option due to size.
Depends how much local storage you want, as well as fps/resolution.
I think an easy/cheap solution would be a Wyze Cam with a little battery bank that has a 5v output to use instead of the charger as a UPS, like this one. That'd give you upwards of 12 hours uptime when the power goes out.
Wyze advertises max capacity SD card as 32GB which will only give you 2-3 days of HD video storage, but there are plenty of reports of using a 64GB or 128GB formatted to exFAT. If you do supply your own larger SD card, just make sure you format it with a tool designed specifically for formatting SD cards.
It looks like Grandmother requires 12V, 2A, DC
So, you want a lithium ion battery pack that outputs 12V and 2 amps or more.
https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/
^ that one is 6000mAh, so it’ll power Grandmother for something close to 3 hours. You can buy heavier batteries that have more capacity if you want. Be sure to check if your Moog requires center positive power (likely) or center negative. That’ll be indicated on your power supply.
Just remember we are random people on the internet, and this could void your warranty :)
To piggy back off this, a cheaper solution might be to just buy a 12v portable battery pack and car port adapter to charge it, though a jump start battery and solar panels are definitely solid investments if you don't mind spending a bit more.
Yeah I've looked very carefully at those cheaper options as well, and wonder if this lower-capacity one (6000mAh @ 12v) would be enough to power a mount and a USB cooling fan.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7C
Why not just use a 12V rechargeable battery pack? Converting DC voltages can be done efficiently, but I'd be surprised if a $10 device was designed with efficiency in mind. Further, connecting devices in parallel to increase current supply is usually a tricky proposition.
https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C
Capacity is directly correlated with weight and volume. Finding a smaller pack might indicate a fake capacity.
Would two smaller packs with a y-cable work for you?*
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*Safety related note: make sure both powerbanks or full or both empty before connecting.
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It's been suggested, but the 5" Raspberry Pi screen would work, but has a resolution of 800x480. Another advantage is it can be powered by a USB battery bank via the micro USB.
Personally I'd go with something like this 7" 1024x600 and power it via a 12v/5v power bank and you'd be in it for $95, but that's because I'd like a slightly larger image.
When I used to install security cameras I used a Photography external output as it has an included battery and is pretty simple.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME3ZH7C/
I believe it is the original. Here is the amazon link
https://www.amazon.com/GoPro-CHDHA-301-HERO/dp/B00NIYNUXO/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468899044&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=go+pro+hero
This is what my girlfriend got me two years ago for christmas, quite a bit cheaper than the hero 4 but honestly still takes great looking video. Only difference is you cant take the camera out of the case, can't change the battery, and has less filming options, but it will still do 720p 60fps or 1080p 30fps and take pictures, which is really all I needed.
Canon t3i and [Go Pro Hero](https://www.amazon.com/GoPro-CHDHA-301-HERO/dp/B00NIYNUXO/ref=sr_1_4? s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1469558033&sr=1-4&keywords=go+pro+hero)
http://www.amazon.com/GoPro-CHDHA-301-HERO/dp/B00NIYNUXO
This is what I'm using. I'm not looking to spend too much since I'm going to be using in pretty rugged conditions (8 weeks in remote Bolivia) so I think I'd rather run with the quality then upgrade.
The case doesn't seem like it's the kind that comes off but I'll see what I can do without breaking it.
So i'm looking @ getting a gopro for my helmet when i go riding my motorcycle & i was wondering what the biggest difference i wound seen between Gopro hero & the Gopro hero4 silver as of right now i just want it incase anything were to happen while riding. But idk later down the road if my friends wanted to see them i would edit them into a video like some motovlogers do i guess
Simply titled 'Gopro Hero'. Lowest priced one there is. Can't find it on the GoPro site so perhaps it's out of production.
https://www.amazon.com/GoPro-CHDHA-301-HERO/dp/B00NIYNUXO
They're becoming less and less expensive. You can grab one of the drones for $350 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00AGOSQI8/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=all (the ones from Amazon Warehouse Deals are just a bit banged up on the outside)) and the new GoPro Hero is $130 (http://www.amazon.com/GoPro-CHDHA-301-HERO/dp/B00NIYNUXO/). If you're looking to go more high end, look into FPV streaming, the DJI Phantom 2, the Zenmuse H3-3D gimbal and the GoPro Hero 4 Black. DJI even has a professional line that can carry DSLRs. It's definitely fun, but it's also really worrying, knowing that every time I launch I'm putting $1k+ in the air with huge potential for property damage. I've had some awkward conversations with neighbors. At the end of production for that video, I couldn't see the drone because it was so high up. We found it four days later about half a mile away. Right at the end was when the radio cut out. Try it out, but keep in mind that we live pretty close to some airports. The FAA says that all aircraft like this drone must be three miles away from any airports and must stay below 300 feet (one football field). I'd love to see what you get if you try it out. It'd also be a great father son activity as there's lots of maintenance, studying and practicing involved. Overall... GO FOR IT!
For 100? They just announced the entry level gopro that runs just a bit more money. I'd go for that over this. http://www.amazon.com/GoPro-CHDHA-301-HERO/dp/B00NIYNUXO/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1412694510&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=gopro
At that price point, you may want to consider spending the money on a rig for your phone. Otherwise you could check out the new base model GoPro Hero.
I would not recommend a webcam necessarily or any traditional style handicam near that price.
A GoPro like this plus a gimbal is around 300. I don't want it professional just better than putting an old phone and using the camera on it.
I second the go pro idea. Even the cheap one takes great looking video, and is waterproof. $130 on Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/GoPro-CHDHA-301-HERO/dp/B00NIYNUXO/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450334294&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=gopro
The most valuable things I have from my travels are my photos, and hawaii will take full advantage of that go pro durability.
The $120 model takes exceptional video and is more than enough for 90% of what people use them for.
Link
They start at $129. I'm willing to bet anyone reading this right now is using something that costs more than that.
http://www.amazon.com/GoPro-CHDHA-301-HERO/dp/B00NIYNUXO/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420315110&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=gopro
Not really doable at $300, but I can get you close.
Quadcopter
Camera
All prices are from a search I put near-zero effort into; you may be able to shave off a few bucks if you do some digging.
The Blade is the best of the 3 prebuilt quadcopters listed, the other 2 are a bit of a toss-up. DIY could net the highest quality, depends on your skills and how much effort you want to put in.
EDIT: Also worth noting that "good camera" and "FPV" sometimes don't mesh well. Stereotypically, FPVers fly fast and crash hard, while folks with "good cameras" on their quadcopters are flying slow, dangling the camera on a stabilized platform, taking pictures or video. You certainly can fly those camera rigs FPV, but it won't be the same sort of experience as FPV on a 250mm racer.
Gopro's starter package more expensive, but you get amazing video without having to buy their newest version.
Okay, slightly loaded question.
The new Go PRO Hero from the newer lineup is an entry model version at $129.99. It was made specifically to give people on a budget as much of the Go PRO functionality as possible on a budget.
Washington post article "Yes you can record the police." I use this GoPro on my motorcycle. I've been pulled over a couple times with it recording but have't caught anything interesting.
Let me know what you think of these ideas. I'd be more than happy to offer more suggestions :)
So I’m looking at the IV version on Amazon (can’t find the x) and it says its a master and a slave, does that mean I can use it off camera without any addition gear?
This is the other one I’m looking at
http://Altura Photo Professional Flash Kit for NIKON DSLR - Includes: I-TTL Flash (AP-N1001), Wireless Flash Trigger Set and Accessories
Agree w/ /u/fuqsfunny (I think I keep doing that w/ you heh, I'm new here) that they don't look that grainy or underexposed. The easiest solution is to do what you're doing, shoot raw, big aperture, and add noise reduction if necessary. Nothing to learn and spend. For a website you probably don't need super high res so the noise won't be as visible.
If you do want to go flash what kind of gear do you have? Assuming a canon or nikon DSLR a yongnuo yn560 IV for $70 is an affordable way to start with built in wireless triggering (to fire the flash off the camera). It's manual though so if you want TTL (where the camera choose the intensity of the flash for you) the YN568EX is $100 and the cheapest way to go. There's definitely a learning curve so prepare for that. I don't know if you're on some kind of deadline for this. No doubt a flash would give you more options if they're moving like stopping a jump in mid air but to make it look good it's not as easy as popping it on your camera. But, if you're already committed to photography in general you can't go wrong buying a flash even if you don't use it much on this project. It's an investment you'll use elsewhere for sure.
All that said, you're in control of the shoot right? This is as opposed to only observing a class and taking pictures. I say that because you may have the opportunity to pose them. If they could hold a position you could lower your shutter speed and ISO to get cleaner shots. I mean, this won't work for everything like the jumping or trying to get some real emotion during a spar but something else to consider.
Hello, relatively new Canadian here. I am planning on buying the Yonguo 560 IV! for about $100 in hopes of taking better portraits. What controller works best? the YN560 TX! for $60 seems to give me wireless controls but it requires batteries so I don't know how reliable that is, there is also just a simple trigger! for $40 dollars. Is there anything else I should be looking into when purchasing? Thank you.
If you already own that flash, then yes and use it. If you are looking for a flash to buy, I prefer the Yongnuo 560 IV. Though a manual flash can be hard to use at first, they are easier than automatics once you 'get it'.
http://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-YN560-IV-Speedlite-Panasonic/dp/B00PGTOX26/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463075359&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=yongnuo+560IV
As the other commenters mentioned, it should really depend on the situation and you should be making these kinds of decisions on a case-by-case basis. 4 speedlights in the corners could potentially work, but it would depend on the room. Additionally, you want to think about the type of light you are creating - do you want to point everything at the ceiling and have light everywhere, or do you want to have a kicker or two to shoot into to create some depth to the images?
If you only have one speedlight, on-camera bounce can provide decent results. However, if you're going to add additional off-camera units, my advice would be to invest in flashes with triggers/tranceivers built into them, such as the Yongnuo YN-560 IV line. They're incredibly cheap, reliable, and work perfectly for this sort of application. By doing this, you'll be able to trigger the flashes remotely (and reliably), with the additional benefit of being able to balance your output with the ambient light in the room, so as not to completely overwhelm it. Your batteries might have to be replaced once every 2-3 hours, depending on how bright your flash is set to. Buy some rechargeable batteries. You'll save hundreds.
My personal preference is to use a master flash on the top of my camera to light my subjects, and use it to control other off-camera radio slave units for additional fill or edge lighting (kickers) as the need arises. You get the flexibility of on-camera bounce with the look of multiple off-camera lights. It's the best of both worlds, I think.
Also, to your question about the light temperature, bare flash will show up as blue light in an image where the white balance is set to match most ambient indoor lighting, which is far warmer (usually tungsten). This will definitely create some weird-looking shots. You can easily get around this by gelling the flashes to the ambient light in the room, and I would definitely recommend it, no matter what lighting setup you go with. Just pick up a couple of gel kits off Amazon that include some CTO (orange) gels, and you'll be golden. In terms of bang for your buck, this will be the most effective way to improve the look of indoor images shot with speedlights.
Good luck with your shoot!
Here are a couple $70 ones to check out:
You could also look for a used Canon-branded flash, like the 430ex ii, used on Craigslist/Ebay, but since you're considering switching systems eventually, you may just wish to go with the cheaper off-brand flash for now.
I am about to get into flash photography and, wanting to hit the ground running, I will buy three flashes and related equipment off the bat. I have decided to go with the cheap Yongnuo flashes.
The Yongnuo is up to version IV, but I can purchase some used version III's for a bit cheaper. The difference between them is that the IV has a transmitter built in that can communicate with the other flashes remotely. If I am understanding correctly, this would eliminate the need to buy a separate transmitter (called the TX for Yongnuo).
Is there any benefit to buying three IV's or is it fine to buy one IV and two III's? The latter seems fine to me, but as I am new to all this, I thought it best to ask the more experienced in case I am missing something. The savings are minimal, but as I am about to buy quite a lot of photography gear, it should contribute to substantial savings overall.
I may purchase from a similar cheap flash company if I can find a better deal. If anyone knows and even more cost-effective way to get into flash, please let me know.
Link to the IV
Link to the III
I'd recommend the Yongnuo 560 IV: All the features (and power) of a Canon 580 EX, but at 1/7th the cost.
http://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-YN560-IV-Speedlite-Panasonic/dp/B00PGTOX26/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1456863143&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=560+iv
You can also read this site (I have no affiliation with whoever runs it):
http://improvephotography.com/gear/recommended-flash-photography-kits/
Hello, i come back with an other beginner question,
So i am buying my first flash for my Nikon D5200 and i came across this seems to be Chinese brand that offers good flashes (according to many reviews on youtube)
and i was willing to buy the Yongnuo YN-560 IV
so i have to questions:
1- what do think about it, do you recommand it?
2- is it compatible with my Nikon D5200?
thank you once again lovely subredditers :3
cc u/MrSalamifreak
Honestly, I think you’ll be unhappy going cheap in the beginning. You’ll probably want to upgrade later on, so you might want to save some extra money for better equipment. But if that’s not an option right now, I totally understand!
You really can’t go wrong with the Yongnuo flashes. Check those out to see which one fits your needs and is in your price range. These triggers are pretty decent. You’ll want a nice bracket for your umbrella and flash. These stands are also fairly decent.
Can someone explain to me the difference between these two flashes? YN560 - III & YN560 - IV. I'm trying to buy a flash I can use off camera. Will both of these do that? In another comment someone mentioned the need to buy a trigger separately to make that work. Is that the case for both of these flashes?
Hey folks -- looking for any advice on getting started with Flash. I have been thinking about picking up a YN 560iv because they are cheap. I have a Nikon F3 and an SB-16 flash that I am experimenting with right now for portraiture, but hoping to get more control and ease of use with a modern flash. Any reading material would be appreciated!
The flash I have has built-in wireless capability, my understanding is that using this would mean I would not need an additional receiver unit.
link to my flash
I guess I would need a wireless flash receiver for the 568 flash though?
link
Hi there, so I'm a flash newbie, but I want to buy a yongnuo flash to work with my Canon 5d classic. I also want to be able to attach the yongnuo to a tripod and fire that with a wireless trigger on my 5d in certain settings. I'm wondering what flash equipment I would need for this to work. I'm considering this, but I'm not sure it would work? Would I need something like this for it to fire the flash wirelessly? Is it simple enough to buy the yongnuo YN560-TX, attach that to my 5d's hot shoe, dial in the settings, attach the yongnuo YN560III to a tripod or wherever, then press the shutter button on my camera to activate the flash? Thanks for the help!
What are your thoughts on getting 2 YONGNUO YN560 IV's or 2 YONGNUO YN568ex ii's as slaves for my Canon 580EX ii? Do these flashes work well together? Can I set the power levels of the Yongnuo's from the Canon? I have not used many off camera flashes, and this seems like a cheap way to learn.
This or a Pair of them and This with a radio trigger setup.
I heard https://www.amazon.com/Sony-SEL35F18-35mm-Prime-Fixed/dp/B0096W1P5W/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491531110&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=sony+e+35 is a good choice also. Find out which focal length you like more.
Edit: there's also the https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1234027-REG/sigma_302965_30mm_f_1_4_dc_dn.html
No, it's this one.
I hear that's a popular lens but I like something a bit more open. I tend to lean towards the extra detail primes deliver. This would be probably more my speed: Sony SEL35F18 35mm f/1.8 Prime Fixed Lens https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0096W1P5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_Bx45wb33HE77B
By the way, have you ever used the BMCC? How much less flexibility does SLOG give over CinemaDNG?
Yeah, it is sure looking like that. It now says delivery date pending which seems like Amazon's way of saying I should have just gone to a camera store.
The Sony SEL35F18 35mm f/1.8, and Sony SEL16F28 16mm f/2.8 were delivered yesterday. Tomorrow I get the Sony VCLECF1 Fisheye Conversion Lens and Sony SEL90M28G FE 90mm f/2.8-22 Macro. Now they just get to taunt me as I do not have another E-Mount camera.
I'm guessing you mean a lens made for a 35mm film camera? You would just call that a vintage lens or a legacy lens. Calling it a 35mm lens is confusing because there are also lenses at the 35mm focal length like this
I think vintage lenses would work well for what you want to use them for. Here is a good list of good ones to choose from.
You can get a set of extension tubes like this as a cheap way to take macro shots. They will work with any lens but auto focus might be affected.
It might be an unpopular opinion around here, but you might also be better off getting a compact dslr...you could get quite a bit more for your price limit of $800...
>Noted! Obviously I need to do much more studying considering when I search for 30mm and 35mm lenses I get lenses that range from $75 to $3000 with obviously a variety of different technical details. Is there one of each you would reccomend on a tighter budget (sub $250 new - if that's even doable) so I can do a little reverse digging while I watch some videos/read guides? I think for the moment there is way too much information floating around in my head like others have said can easily happen. I definitely just need to get out and take some pictures.
They are talking about the sigma 30 1.4 DC DN for sony e mount (Amazon link) and the sony 35mm 1.8 for sony e mount (Amazon link). The sigma is about $330 new and the sony is $450, although you can usually find them slightly cheaper used.
The sub $200 30mm/35mm lenses are usually older manual focus lenses. These are cheap, but have no autofocus and usualy require an adapter to be used with sony (The sony you have uses e mount so make sure any lenses you buy are for e mount). There are converters from various mounts to the E mount that can allow you to use these other lenses. Some are very cheap so thats an option if you ever want to play around with different lenses. These are harder to use though since you need to manually focus every shot and may not give you the same photo quality as the newer modern lenses do.
The more expensive lenses are usually for for full frame cameras (bigger sensor than the camera you have). The Sony full frame mount is FE instead of E and while the actual mount is the same so you can use FE lenses on your camera, it's not really worth it since those are more expensive and usually bigger and heavier and designed for a larger sensor.
I am not sure that the Sony 35mm that you linked is the proper one for the a6300. It think you need the SEL35F18:
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-SEL35F18-35mm-Prime-Fixed/dp/B0096W1P5W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498126305&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=SEL35F18
It is the one I use in my a6000, and it is a great lens, but it is more expensive that they one you showed (yours is an A mount lens, whereas mine is a E mount lens). You can get it much cheaper, though (I paid less for it on Ebay).
One of the all-around lenses would be a good, versatile prime to start with. For example, something like this 35mm lens. To get bokeh you want to use large apertures - you can see sample photos from different lenses here. Here's one taken with the lens I linked above at f/1.8.
If you do get an a6000, note that the sensor's crop factor means that the a 35mm lens will be equivalent to a 50mm lens on a full frame camera (well, 52.5mm). Usually people talk about the full frame equivalent just so everyone has the same reference point.
35mm Sony
If your doing a lot of low light/handheld then you should get some sort of light.
The crop fact is going to bring that 35mm to a 52.5mm which is a great focal length unless you want to get a wider angle. In tight spaces it might be too long of a length.
Sony. get the A6500 and a sony lens. Maybe the 18-105 F4 if you really want that focal length coverage. That lens isint going to be great for low light but the 6500 is a low light beast. If you really need that fast glass you could go with the sony 35mm f1.8. In my opinion Sony is where its at right now, super portable and blowing anything in its price range out of the water!
I recently did a Euro-trip and brought nothing but the Sony a6000 and the kit zoom lens. It was honestly perfect for traveling. I was so glad to not be hauling around a full sized SLR. The distortion is really only bad when you are shooting at 16mm. I also just got the 35mm 1.8 prime lens and it is fantastic. I'm just a hobbyist though, so you may be a lot more picky than me.
Here are some sample shots with the kit lens while on my trip.
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-SEL35F18-35mm-Prime-Fixed/dp/B0096W1P5W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505092600&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sel35f18
Picked up this bad Larry the other day for my a6500.
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-SEL35F18-35mm-Prime-Fixed/dp/B0096W1P5W
It's purty good. I'm partial to my Rolinon 85mm 1.8, though it's a bit zoomed in for landscape
Quick question. Looking to upgrade my nex 5T to an alpha. I'm like the OP, not a professional just use for city and travel photography mostly and not a ton of video. Was thinking about the 6500 when it came out but do you think it's too much camera? I have these lenses
Sony E 55-210mm F4.5-6.3 Lens for Sony E-Mount Cameras (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNJWSDS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_d6kfybS0DYE0Q
Sony SEL35F18 35mm f/1.8 Prime Fixed Lens https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0096W1P5W/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_M6kfyb1SW4TC9
Sony SELP1650 16-50mm Power Zoom Lens https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0096W1PG6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_G9kfybT37WK5M
Would you still go with the 6000 body?
Is this lens the same as this lens? I wasn't too sure D:
Should I get this lens?
http://www.amazon.com/Sony-SEL35F18-35mm-Prime-Fixed/dp/B0096W1P5W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422330575&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sony+35mm+f1.8
I own the Sony Nex 6 and I've been wanting a 35mm lens for indoor shooting. I've been mainly using the kit lens and this is my first time buying a lens. Are there lenses with similar specs as the one I posted above? Wouldn't it be cost effective to spend $500 on a DSLR lens and just put an adapter on it?
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-SELP18105G-PZ-18-105mm-OSS/dp/B00ENZRQH8
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-SEL35F18-35mm-Prime-Fixed/dp/B0096W1P5W/ref=pd_sim_421_4?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B0096W1P5W&amp;pd_rd_r=M6Y227QVTB5Q0BMV9FGS&amp;pd_rd_w=ogf56&amp;pd_rd_wg=Qx7dq&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=M6Y227QVTB5Q0BMV9FGS
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-SEL50F18-Mount-Cameras-Black/dp/B00EPWC30O/ref=pd_sim_421_10?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00EPWC30O&amp;pd_rd_r=M6Y227QVTB5Q0BMV9FGS&amp;pd_rd_w=ogf56&amp;pd_rd_wg=Qx7dq&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=M6Y227QVTB5Q0BMV9FGS
I own the Sigma 30mm 1.4 http://amzn.to/2hSCySn , it is a sharpness beast at a great price. That is what I use for street photography. The Roki 24mm 1.4 http://amzn.to/2hSGe6x is a manual lens, if that matters to you. The Sony 35mm 1.8 http://amzn.to/2iCMNxU isn't quite as awesome as the Sigma 30mm IMHO, but the OSS makes a difference, especially in low light. If you had an a6500, I would not recommend the Sony over the sigma... due to the IBIS. In your case, however, I only have a slight preference for the Sigma. It's a close call.
Unfortunately... going wider than that generally comes with higher prices or smaller apertures, so you'll find you don't use them as often as you may think. The Sigma 19mm 2.8 http://amzn.to/2hSHUNn is a great, inexpensive lens. Rokinon makes a lot of good wide lenses, but again, manual focus. For Astrophotography, the Roki 12mm 2.0 http://amzn.to/2iRLIjz is hard to beat.
Best Budget options: Prime & Zoom. By far the most recommend and most liked by all of the people I know getting the a6300/a6500, hands down.
To complement DatAperture's answer the other option in the mirrorless market is Sony. The tradeoff is probably a bit better quality (the same sensors as in APS-C DSLRs) versus larger size and less lens selection.
For your budget you could get a very nice body:
Or a cheaper kit:
and then complement it with some lenses:
The Sigma ones are also available in Nex mount:
For my kind of shooting, on a backpacking trip of Europe I'd go for A6000+19/2.8+50/1.8. Fits in your budget. Is light and small. Gets you a wide angle for scenery and a 50 for everything else, including low light. If you prefer zooms you can get the A6000 with the 16-50 kit lens plus a 55-210.
I'm looking for a lens that will give me shots most similar to my favorite photographer: Cameron Hammond. I have a Sony a7 iii and I'm torn between the Sony 35mm f1.8 and the Sigma 30mm f1.4. Any tips?
Hi all! Preemptive thanks! And now...filter questions:
I've recently purchased a Sony alpha a6000 and I've got two lenses for it:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0096W1P5W a 35mm f/1.8 prime, and
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BPZD0M4 a 19mm f2.8 sigma wide.
The next things I want to buy are a couple of neutral density filters, and I really want a Lee big stopper.
My questions are the following:
Will any of the cokin series holders (maybe the p series?) work with these lenses AND hold the Lee seven5 big stopper (and other seven5 format filters)?
Is a polarizing filter (the $240 from Lee) worth it (that is, does shooting for longer exposures in the sun increase the strength/likelihood of glare)?
This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0096W1P5W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Another solution that I used for the Vive lighthouses (and will keep for the new ones I'll get with the full Index kit) is these poles:
https://www.amazon.com/Task-Tools-T74500-63-Support/dp/B000CRDD6Y
and these clamps:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ5XH4O
I decided to use these instead of tripods so that less floor space is taken up since I plan on leaving them up for a while.
Hers my setup. Not too detailed; but explains itself: I bought the parts from Amazon. Love it!
https://imgur.com/a/JNDM1
Edit: more details...
FastCap 3rd Hand Support System 57-to-144-Inches, 2-pack #3HAND5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000067S12/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_MUaqxbRQG7SBE
And
Smallrig® Cool Ballhead Arm V4 Multi-function Double Ball Adapter with Bottom Clamp &amp;amp; ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5XH4O/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_0Vaqxb4NED9MS
I second this. It was a perfect solution for me. Don't forget the clips for attaching. http://www.amazon.com/Smallrig%C2%AE-Ballhead-Multi-function-Adapter-Standard/dp/B00DJ5XH4O?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01
Smallrig came in handy for time lapses or just to record in awkward places where a tripod was required or somewhere or recording in a place where an extension rod would've come in handy but I didn't have it on me.
For example a railing or pillar with a nice view but it's too narrow to stick a tripod on. No problem. Clamp the rig on the railing or pillar.
I was at a restaurant where the railing and pillars were too thick for the clamp. Fortunately the outdoor chairs were narrow enough for the clamp and they were easy to move. There were tables but they were too low and I didn't have my tripod nor an extension rod around.
During a flight, I recorded video for the take off. I was able to clamp onto the window cover and sit back as the pocket was recording.
Kudos to Megatide for the suggestion https://www.reddit.com/r/osmopocket/comments/cv4vze/15_osmo_pocket_travel_accessories_tested_on/
Same thing I have except with this:
http://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Support-System-144-Inches-3HAND5/dp/B000067S12
and this:
http://www.amazon.com/Smallrig%C2%AE-Ballhead-Multi-function-Adapter-Standard/dp/B00DJ5XH4O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459314692&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=small+rig+clamp+mount
Adhesives don't work great, try one of these instead. I've had great luck with them and they don't take up all the room a tripod does:
https://www.amazon.com/UltraClamp-Assembly-Cameras-Binoculars-1-5-inch/dp/B000ABB4HC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482970706&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=camera+clamps
https://www.amazon.com/SmallRig-Ballhead-Multi-function-Adapter-Standard/dp/B00DJ5XH4O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482970706&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=camera+clamps
There are a few other similar types hit up the search phrase
camera clampson amazon.Thank you for all your input! I'll definitely try this set up out.
To mount the camera i was thinking about using a backdrop stand and attaching this to it:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ5XH4O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A22PRX6WI8E2K6&amp;psc=1
I did look at some of the DIY options earlier but most of them seemed to require drills and power tools that I don't have.
I'm talking about these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CRDD6Y and coupled with these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ5XH4O
I guess I should have called it a support rod...
The alternative was a pair of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/ and a set of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/
I used the tripods at first and they worked ok, but any time I stepped too close to the legs, the carpet would dip down just enough to make the tip of the tripod sway and cause me to lose tracking.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E5M39AW/ref=pd_aw_fbt_469_img_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0RP454C69QPZMS8GRPPB
Or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DJ5XH4O/ref=pd_aw_sim_421_3?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41AWo5dTWnL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL300_SR300%2C300_&amp;refRID=0PBEVVR0KBPMBASS63WW
I have the second one.
I still prefer the pole setup. I bought these quick release plates: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D268V8W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
and these ballhead clamps:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ5XH4O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
More expensive though...
With the spinning mirror inside I wouldn't trust it to 3M Command strip. If you don't want to drill holes in wall, then maybe a small mounting bracket like this could be used if you have shelves or something to attach to https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ5XH4O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use a couple angles: One on my jury strut and one on the tail handle, held on by these guys:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ5XH4O/ and
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GWBXL16/
Here's an example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RrlJyDAtnzA
You don't have jury struts in the 185, but I do know that someone makes a strut camera mount thingy. My system may work on your stringer, it's a cool view, but not super useful for most of the takeoff or landing run as it just gets pummeled by water.
> I'd say get Syma X5, 300$ won't get you anything worth the money AFAIK.
I ended up sending him these two recommendations:
>Option 1 - Racing Style
>
>"This is a really solid choice if he likes the racing style quads. It's very similar to mine, actually. Same carbon fiber frame and similar internal components, except it comes pre-assembled and ready to fly. Also includes a radio, which is good chunk of the investment.
>HI Full Carbon Fiber 250 mm Quadcopter Race Copter Racing Drone Frame Kit RTF +Radio... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016RPJ9AS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_XSTHxbM42H15D
>Get that and you still have some left over for a 3S Lipo battery and a möbius camera and he's on his way. It won't have an FPV camera, so he'll be flying line of site, but that's best anyway until he's practiced.
>Batteries:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SGYXD4M/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_FZTHxb0AWJ967
>Möbius Camera:
>Mobius Action Camera 1080P HD Mini Sports Cam - Standard Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DP1WYD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_O0THxb3N4HHDQ
>Option 2 - Camera Platform
>Surprisingly, this one was harder to answer. Camera platforms or your DJI Phantom Style quads must have some more sophisticated components in order to maintain stability and make them easier to fly. Or they're just marked up because, hey, Go Pro owners don't know better and can afford it.
>Anyway, this is the best option I could find, though it is $50 over budget. You get everything you need to go fly except a Go Pro, and it has a nice gimbal for one of those when he gets one.
>http://www.horizonhobby.com/product/multirotor/camera-carrying-aircraft-and-accessories/camera-platforms/chroma-gph-3-axis-with-dx4-p-blh8670
I've heard good things about the Mobius camera. Many FPV RC flyers use them, and they're durable.
http://www.amazon.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-Sports/dp/B00DP1WYD2
Yeah, it's not so terrible, I just think it's overly bulky, even if it looks svelt next to a GoPro.
If someone could make a Roam form factor with better imaging and dashcam-like abilities like recording in a perpetual loop and a button push to preserve a current segment I'd be pretty happy.
I'd still prefer it to be smaller and lower profile though. e.g. a waterproof, high quality Mobius.
Accelerometer control so it automatically starts and stops would be useful too. Not holding my breath for that.
I'd say neither.
Good major components along with good suggestions below mine. Dont forget the little things. Zip ties, battery strap, 2mm bullet connectors for your power harness. Shrink wrap to cover your bullet connectors.
Also I'm not to sure how well that setup will carry a GoPro. That top plate is made for something like this...
http://www.amazon.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-Sports/dp/B00DP1WYD2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1411065706&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Mobius.
Good Luck.
The mobius action cam gets good reviews
Here is a side by side of the video quality with a go pro, I'm sure it would be more than enough for what you want to do.
This is a very good camera
I used to use one, until I 'sploded it in a seriously gnarly crash.
It's an older camera, and I'm sure there are more modern cams with similar performance for less, but it's what I've used for a long time.
It seems he's using his phone, but there are a few really tiny action cams capable of 4k recording. This one doens't do 4k, but it does 1080p.
https://www.amazon.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-Sports/dp/B00DP1WYD2
I'd dress that bitch up to make it look like some whacky card protector.
I'm interested in getting a flash to start learning with and I'm ideally looking for one that I can fire remotely off something like a light stand. I'd prefer to stay around $100, and so far I've narrowed it down to these two but can't really tell the difference.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PGTOX26?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_4&amp;smid=A1NZ7IEFV816B1&amp;pldnSite=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OUU7W8O?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_8&amp;smid=A6EGA15UEFYEQ&amp;pldnSite=1
Any help / recommendations?
I have a Canon T3i btw.
Late to the party today!
Ok, I have a pair of the Yongnuo wireless transmitters RF-603 II C3 and the YN-468 II E-TTL speedlight. I'm wanting to add 1-2 of the YN560 IV flashes. The YN560-TX transmitter looks like a great value, but I'm wondering what my options are to keep my older flash in the mix.
Set it to slave mode and hope for the best? Doesn't LOOK to me like the two setups can talk to each other.
Another commenter mentioned the Yongnuo 560 IIs which is in my price range. How does this differ from the IV?
I also found this
Is This the flash?
I have these plus two of these which are cheaper if you need two stands. That said, anytime these are bumped, your whole world will shake around (and I suspect bumpings will be commonplace if your dorm is a typical on), so if possible, you should probably use shower-rod-style stands like what /u/Decapper linked, or one of these to set on top of a bookshelf or something, or clamps something along the lines of this.
Those kinds of mounts will work, but the included mounts should be fine. I had one mount start to droop so I just torqued down the ball joint some more and it has been fine ever since. I added an additional ball joint (like this) to each of the included wall brackets for easier aiming.
>Are you likely to need additional fixings for the tripod to use them with the base stations.
Yes. With most tripods you will need the additional ball mount to be able to angle the lighthouses properly.
I'm using these tripods with these mounts. They work well but extending them to the full height does lessen stability and causes tracking wobble. If I keep them at around 7' everything works fine.
Please note that I do not have my Vive yet (still waiting) but I have been addicted to this reddit and my advice is just from what I've read on here.
The stands will help. Is it a tripod? Keep in mind you might also need to buy a ballhead adapter for the top so that you can angle them downward as much as you want. You'll just want them to be 1/4" like this one: http://www.amazon.com/EXMAX-Tripod-Camera-Camcorder-Bracket/dp/B012FTXOW4
Regarding sweat, I ordered one of these, but haven't received it yet. You'll be waiting for a month or so to have it shipped: https://vrcover.com/product/htc-vive-pre-vr-cover-waterproof-for-exhibitions-sport/
As for watching 360 videos, I believe you need a program that can handle it. Virtual Desktop (on Steam) has a way to do it. If you visit their Steam store page, their video is kinda long (but worth it to see all the features), but in the second half they demo being able to copy and paste a youtube URL of a 360 video directly into it.
Besides Steam directly, the Humble Bundle store is a good place to get some more games. Their Spring sale is going on now and literally ends in less than a day so check out this reddit post for some games you may be interested in before it's too late: https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/4jw21f/humble_spring_sale_vive_compatible_games/
So overall, connecting it and getting up and ready went pretty smooth? There seem to be so many posts for errors, need of help, etc. it makes me worry what kind of trouble to expect once it gets here.
My other question was, you said for Audioshield "no lag at all, even when streaming". What part was streaming? I don't have the game yet so I just wanted to clarify if it wasn't a locally downloaded game or what.
Also, my gf is also always the cold one. Especially her damn feet. She will put them up against me in the bed and damn those initial 10 seconds of helping warm her up suck. She's lucky I love her :P
I bought these: http://www.amazon.com/Neewer%C2%AE-Studio-Portrait-Product-Photography/dp/B00L4YR0BS?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
and these:
http://www.amazon.com/EXMAX-Tripod-Camera-Camcorder-Bracket/dp/B012FTXOW4?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01
They work flawlessly and aren't expensive at all.
They screw right on. I use these myself that's why I'm recommending. Also you can buy these to tilt the lighthouses downwards like they recommend, but it works fine without them.
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Studio-Portrait-Product-Photography/dp/B00M8SLI8U/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458275004&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=light+stand
&
2 of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
You are welcome.
so maybe this one would be better since it is taller? http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Studio-Portrait-Product-Photography/dp/B00M8SLI8U/ref=sr_1_7?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457821397&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=light+stands+for+photography
Also is this the right kind of bracket thingy for the top? Or do I want something else? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&amp;smid=A334T5W1R4VWTT
If anyone is going to buy those mounts, buy them now because the ship date is a month from now. If you want some a little more expensive but 2 day, try these:
Ideally the lighthouses are supposed to be slightly angled down, but can work without the angle. Something like this should get you the angle suggested. http://www.amazon.com/EXMAX-Tripod-Camera-Camcorder-Bracket/dp/B012FTXOW4/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457026520&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=ball+swivel
If I understand what you are saying correctly, yes the tripod will provide you with much greater control over the orientation of the sensor because of its adjustable camera mount. The stand alone should allow you to rotate the sensor to face any direction, but does not provide for any tilt. The sensor itself has some tilt adjustment but not a whole lot. If you need more adjustment you would need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/EXMAX-Tripod-Camera-Camcorder-Bracket/dp/B012FTXOW4/ref=sr_1_6?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481042371&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=bracket+swivel
that would screw onto the top, and you would then screw the sensor onto it. Then you can put it at any angle you want, like the tripod allows.
Pretty much. I use these mounted on a couple of light stand tripods.
what about these? Planning on this since i have amazon prime
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003I6ENXS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=AK3KRUMMFC0QT
stands and mounts
They've come up a hair but still under 50 bucks. A great value in my opinion especially if you need to move your lighthouses around for any reason or can't or choose not to mount them to your wall. Also apologies on being a bit late to reply. Only just now saw this for some reason.
So I only know a few of these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Are just the tripods I use now.
Other than that, hope you get the answers you want. Cheers! (The Vive is awesome though!)
How much space do you have? When I first got my Vive I bought a couple of these lighting tripods and these ball-head adapters that somebody in the sub recommended and they worked great. Tripods designed for lights work better for base stations than ones designed for cameras because of the extra height, and they can also be easily folded up and stuck in a closet or wherever when not in use. You'll have to re-calibrate your area every time you set them up, though.
I'm using a pair of fovitec light stands and a set of ball mounts to angle my base stations
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HNZJLG4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478480623&amp;sr=1-1&amp;m=A3VAHM8ODBLF0H&amp;pi=AC_SX280_SY350_QL65&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31FDwaUTheL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B012FTXOW4/ref=pd_aw_sim_421_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=8W0E4PJH452VBEBTYDDJ
I'm using these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4
Obviously not as stable as a wall mount, but they're pretty good.
I'm not sure about motioneye but this camera + this hack might be suitable for HASS.
look for foscam/amcrest when they are on sale.
if you just want a simple set up camera, I would suggest
YI camera 720p
http://www.amazon.com/YI-Home-Camera-Official-U-S/dp/B016F3M7OM/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462473235&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=yi+camera
free basic cloud service, live streaming, small & light-- you can mount with just 3m tape to any wall.
$50 w/o microsd
There are many ways to go. The question is, to what level does she want?
Level 1. Scare the bad guys from the apartment door:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Barking-Dog-Alarm-HomeSafe-Safe-Family-Life-Build-System-or-Choose-Pick-List-/111123374457
sounds like a pissed off pit bull. Bad guys keep on walking.
Level 2: Interior cameras:
https://www.amazon.com/Mengshen%C2%AE-Portable-Detection-Included-Camcorder/dp/B014U8OV0M
hidden camera records to SD card.
Visible cameras:
https://www.amazon.com/Funlux-Wireless-Security-Surveillance-Camera/dp/B01HJKBBQU
note: needs 2.4 ghtz router.
Camera direct to phone:
https://www.amazon.com/YI-Home-Camera-Official-U-S/dp/B016F3M7OM
Level 3: Screaming alarm system:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3pc-Home-Alarm-Security-System-Door-Window-Wireless-Key-Pad-Panic-Button-Sensors-/191558668595
Level 4 would be a wireless or wired alarm system, but I don't think that is practical in her situation.
Isn't this exactly the same as this one?
https://www.amazon.com/YI-Home-Camera-Official-U-S/dp/B016F3M7OM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1475182092&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=yi
The Yi Home is like $40 and it should be good enough for what you need.
Yi home cameras on Amazon are pretty good. YI Home Camera Wireless IP Security Surveillance System (US Edition) White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016F3M7OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.iczzb5T3BQXX
Streaming to your phone? What would it be over, wifi? You can find a bunch of wifi capable cameras, but the latency is too poor to be useful to drive with
Forget about an alarm they are useless as a deterrent and neighbours these days don't care or react to an alarm going off. You need to lock your doors and windows with deadbolts to make it harder to get through. These criminals will never crawl through broken glass window for fear of being cut they are opportunistic and smash windows or doors so they can reach in and unlock doors and windows. Have window and door deadbolts stops this. If you want to catch them in the act I recommend you invest in one of these https://www.amazon.com/YI-Wireless-Security-Surveillance-US/dp/B016F3M7OM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492728762&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=home+camera&amp;psc=1 cheap and portable and easy to setup to record the little shit bags in action for prosecution. These cameras can be placed on window sills aimed out to driveway or place in front of entrance ways and will notify you in real time via email with capture footage. Since you are renting and landlord may not care about spending money on deadbolting all windows and door see if you can do it to your room its all about making it harder for them to get your stuff
If you want to go the budget route, get the yi home cameras. The 720p version is usually $30-40 each and the quality and motion detection is surprisingly really good. It does notifications of motion within a set time frame and records only when motion is detected. I integrate them into my smart home system with smartplugs to only turn on when everyone is away or when we arm for bedtime.
You can pay a monthly sub for 24/7 recording, but I just use a microSD. Unfortunately, they aren't POE, but wifi:
https://www.amazon.com/YI-Wireless-Security-Surveillance-US/dp/B016F3M7OM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502907543&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=yi+home&amp;psc=1
If you want a more sophisticated system, a lot of people recommend the netgear Arlo system.
Looks like he's using a YI Camera based off the logo on the bottom left.
https://www.amazon.com/YI-Security-Detection-Monitor-Control/dp/B016F3M7OM
https://www.amazon.com/YI-Wireless-Security-Surveillance-US/dp/B016F3M7OM/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482099215&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=yi+camera
Got 11 of those after BF for essentially free. I use them to watch my dogs during the day, they work great for the purpose.
I'm pretty sure they phone home to china though, and you have to use their app. (Their are hacked firmware's you can load)
I have these all over my house and they're great.
YI Home Camera Wireless IP Security Surveillance System (US Edition) White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016F3M7OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_saSryb25C8SQ3
These Yi Home ones are my recommendation. Install the Fritz firmware hack to keep them from phoning home and they're pretty darn good.
Yi Fritz hack link
You can pick up 4 for under $150 and while they're only 720P, I'd say image quality is on par with the dropcam (which makes sense because its a clone)
In other news, these little Yi cameras for indoors are really inexpensive at Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/YI-Home-Camera-Official-U-S/dp/B016F3M7OM/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452622633&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=yi+home+camera Here's a good example of actual video: http://sanfrancisco.cbslocal.com/2016/01/09/orinda-home-burglary-surveillance-video/
720P, 1080P gen 1, 1080 gen 2.
The gen 2 is supposed to have better hardware, but the physical design has changed from Dropcam style where the camera is all in the black puck that can be separated from the white frame, so I don't like it as much.
They all use the same app in Android.
i realize this is an old topic, but i just recently picked up some Yi Home indoor cameras and they are amazing value.
https://www.amazon.com/YI-Camera-Wireless-Security-Surveillance/dp/B016F3M7OM/
they're Dropcam/Nest cam clones. there is 7 seconds of cloud access and if you want to see more, you can stream it from the microSD card in the device. I have set it to record upon motion and there's a 32gb card in it that I heard can hold weeks of data. You could also have it record continuously however that would likely wear out the card faster. i am researching outdoor mounts but this is a great value over Arlo and anyone that doesn't want to overspend.
there was some concern about the chinese owning your 7 second clips or whatever. i am not so concerned about anyone knowing who visits my porch or backyard as long as i am aware, as well. it is the price of cloud computing.
other downsides are you are required to use their app vs. blueiris or your own app, however i understand there is 3rd party firmware out there that fixes this issue, if you want to flash that.
edit: Also ... a set of 4 Arlo cameras is currently $349 at Best Buy, if you're stuck on getting something that can work with Abode or your SmartThings
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/netgear-arlo-smart-home-indoor-outdoor-wireless-high-definition-security-cameras-4-pack-white-black/1668003.p?loc=0&amp;
It's a YI Home Camera. I have it hanging above my door. There is an awning covering it from the rain. My main complaint is that wind will cause it to vibrate and result in motion false positives. It did survive Hurricane Irma, so I can't be mad. I have the USB cord going in between the door and the doorframe. I have a USB extension cable to make it reach an outlet. I have a backup camera too, just in case that one doesn't catch the action.
Here is the mobile version of your link
Add a $12 micro SD card to one of these and you're all set for around $50: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016F3M7OM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506365520&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=yi+home+camera
I use the smartLav+ from Rode right now and feel it does the job and it goes for a fair price. If you want something even cheaper, I actually started with this cheap lav micbut it gets the job done as well as you can expect from a $20 mic.
I watched your horror compilation that started playing when I opened your channel - first impression. I like your editing style, it reminds me of this Markiplier video except with less shouting.
If you don't already (it doesn't sound like you do) maybe invest in an external microphone. Here are a few that I found on Amazon at different budgets and different equipment that you might want to look into.
Cheap starter mic, works with Apple Products
MidRange Mic that you can attach directly to camera
More Expensive, higher grade mic
[another mid range mic] (https://www.amazon.com/Shotgun-Microphone-Camcorder-Digital-microphone/dp/B00PLCO9T0/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468242974&amp;sr=8-15&amp;keywords=external+microphone) I personally am contemplating this one. I shoot with a Canon Rebel T3.
Hope this helps!
I don't really enjoy video game videos, but I found this entertaining to watch, even without having much knowledge of games. I went ahead and subscribed and hope to see more good stuff!
I'm deciding on a mic primarily for "corporate videos" (interviews with doctors) and potentially podcasts. I've narrowed it to the below and was wondering if fellow redditors had any input? I am leaning towards the PowerDeWise simply because of costs though I like that the shotgun mics would not be visible.
PowerDeWise
Rode SmartLav+
Rode VMGO
Rode VideoMic Me
This is my splitter:
Sennheiser PCV 05 Combo Audio Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IM36VU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5DVHDbWVRC5K4
This is my mic:
Professional Grade Lavalier Lapel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AG56HYQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The splitter is directly connect to the controller, while the headphones 3.5 jack goes into the green jack while the mic goes into the pink one.
I apologize for this part. I still have limited knowledge about parts. So, I initially connected the 4 pole jack of the mic into the plug, which did not worked. So I had to use the 4 pole to 3 pole adapter that was included in the mic set for the mic.
However, there is a feedback that could be heard during the mic test. This disappears when I touch the exposed metal parts between the splitter and pole adapter. But, it magnifies when I touch the exposed metal parts between the mic and the pole adapter.
I hope this makes some sense. I apologize for the wall text.
Disclaimer: I’m not an expert, I’ve been doing a tiny bit of research because I want to improve my videos but haven’t pulled the trigger yet. I don’t think for your purposes you necessarily need to spend a ton on a top-if-the-line mic. You can get good results for under $25. Not podcast quality, but good.
It depends what you’re recording with. If you’re using a phone or other device with a 3.5mm (standard headphone) jack, and you are currently just using the mic on the device itself, I think it would be worth looking into a lavalier mic such as this one. You could buy the Similar Amazon Basics version to save even more. Or if you have Apple earbuds, you could just try using those as the mic is generally going to give you much better quality than the phone itself. Keep in mind if your recording device happens to be an iPhone 7 or later, you’ll need a lightning adapter too.
If you are using a device such as a laptop with a USB port, you could consider a USB microphone. I absolutely don’t know enough about these to make a recommendation.
Sorry to give unsolicited criticism, I just thought your video was really well put together and thought the audio quality could be slightly improved to let your voice shine.
I’m definitely going to try this recipe when I have the time btw!
What camera are you using?
My only problem is the music. Tone the volume down in post-production since the Avg (young) person have the volume on max and it killed my ears since I had headphone one.
Also, it seems like you are speaking loudly to me (audience) get you a mic that clicks on your shirt for better sound. When you are sitting down talking and next thing I know I hear metal being slamed around which distracts me from you.
You can plug it into the camera or into your phone and can grab that audio file and insert it into your videos in post-production.
Here are some: http://www.guitarcenter.com/Rode-Microphones/smartLav-Lavalier-Microphone-for-Smartphones-1404241162585.gc?cntry=us&amp;source=4WWRWXGP&amp;gclid=CjwKEAjwpJ_JBRC3tYai4Ky09zQSJAC5r7runvF-KIC3u7NS2LlFNXZOEEOxXthKj7fvkv1OP7OcpBoCtrvw_wcB
Cheaper:
https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Microphone-Omnidirectional-Recording-Conference/dp/B01AG56HYQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495859925&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=Lavalier++Microphone
This is what you need for the camera, here's the full review - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZBynLD7Kqk
As far as the mic goes, check this out - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AG56HYQ
When I made this post, I was under the impression that $50-$60 would be considered cheap for a wireless clip-on mic because at the time I only found $300s wireless clip-on mics. So far I found several options, being K031B and G130. These two are the main ones I'm currently looking at for options along with the wired PDW Clip-On Mic. I have rechargeable AA batteries so K031B needing batteries won't be an issue. There are other wireless mics I'm looking at as well around $30, but I'm checking to see if they work on PC, along with better pricing on other sites such as newegg.
If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or if you cannot enter Unicode, use
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This should be working, hopefully
In case you missed it, click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.
There may be some questions still unanswered! Below are a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.
If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.
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> If I runt my 2700 at 3.2GHz in Cinebench, if i wiggle the mouse it locks up for a second and then continus to run. Is that normal?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9lw7ga/daily_simple_questions_thread_oct_06_2018/e7ak7s8/
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> Any recommendation for a external blu-ray drive?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9lw7ga/daily_simple_questions_thread_oct_06_2018/e7b04m4/
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> Currently trying to decide on a mic to use along with my VR head set. Currently I'm looking at this wired clip-on mic as a light option to use with VR, I do plan to order a 5ft extension on top of its 11ft length, but I don't want to deal with dragging another cable along with my vr set. I'm looking at the K031B and G130 as a wireless option. Any advice as to which one I should pick from these three or are there better options out there.
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9lw7ga/daily_simple_questions_thread_oct_06_2018/e7b12tc/
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> can a hardware firewall go bad?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9lw7ga/daily_simple_questions_thread_oct_06_2018/e7bffae/
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> How can I fix losing signal with DisplayPort cable? Most if not all DP cables that I can buy are from shitty chinese companys. I have one from a reputable brand that's never losing signal. There is an option to adjust voltage swing in AMD Adrenalin, could that damage my gpu or monitor?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9lw7ga/daily_simple_questions_thread_oct_06_2018/e7bqt67/
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Ok, last question, I swear. I've narrowed it down to using a headphone / mic splitter like this, and using a lapel mic like this which doesn't need batteries. My question is, will this work? Or will there not be enough power for the output and input? much like what would happen if I tried to split it to two headphones at once
sorry if this question is dumb I just really don't know enough about this to figure out what search terms to look for
Yeah. One of these into your phone and boom: https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Microphone-Omnidirectional-Recording-Conference/dp/B01AG56HYQ/
Unless you have a really good/modern GoPro that you have insulated which is kinda finnicky.
I've been using an omnidirectional lav mic (Similar to this) connected to a cell phone for most of this year with poor results:
- With no ability to monitor the audio, the first few tries I went to edit and discovered popping and rustling noises from the lav rubbing against the fabric it was clipped to.
- Audio peaking. I used an app that supposedly brings the input level down, but it's still an issue.
- I tried clipping it under the shirt, sound was muffled and picked up a lot of rustling. I tried wrapping it in foam / tape like a guy on youtube showed, it picked up crackling from the tape. I clipped outside of the shirt, it picked up rustling and wind noise. I bought a deadcat, and it produced muffled audio.
Do you have any recommendations on recorder / lav combos? Would you recommend a directional lav over an omnidirectional? After my poor experiences with a lav this year I'd like to get a more dependable system.
I didn't want to spend much either so I got this lapel mic. Haven't really listened to myself but my buddy says it sounds fine. But you have to clip it to your shirt.
https://www.amazon.ca/Professional-Microphone-Omnidirectional-Recording-Conference/dp/B01AG56HYQ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=lapel+mic&amp;qid=1572444763&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-3
Do you use a gopro, and the gopro mic adapter?
Anyway, I use THIS and it works very well for what I need. Your welcome to check out my videos and see the quality for yourself. But for the price and ease of use I think its fantastic.
I think major distortion can happen due to your helmet and mic placement. But I was using a cheap mic and definitely noticed more wind noise before I switched to this mic. It sits right in front of my mouth now and as long as the mouth vent is closed you can just hear my engine and me when I talk.
Here's my setup. Looks like this. My lights are mounted using a 1/4"-20 camera gooseneck mount with a thread pattern that some microphone boom arms also use:
If your mic boom uses a 5/8"-27 pattern, then you might need this adapter:
Viltrox L116T
Let's try for Viltrox as usual :)
https://www.amazon.com/Viltrox-L116T/dp/B01KZLM3QC/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KZLM3QC
Thanks!
Does anyone mind if I jump on the bandwagon?
Thank you, Para!
Thanks for the giveaway!
and the viltrox l116t for me: https://www.amazon.com/Viltrox-L116T/dp/B01KZLM3QC/?tag=parametrek-20
The Viltrox lights are cool.
http://www.amazon.com/Viltrox-L116T/dp/B01KZLM3QC/?tag=parametrek-20
https://www.amazon.com/Viltrox-L116T/dp/B01KZLM3QC/?tag=parametrek-20
Viltrox L116T high CRI, variable color temperature panel light
Thanks!
http://www.amazon.com/Viltrox-L116T/dp/B01KZLM3QC/?tag=parametrek-20
Viltrox L116T
Manker E03H NWThank you for doing all these! Love the more frequent/lower priced giveaways. I really don't need a $100 flashlight anyways...
Thank you, as always!
[(https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-L116T-Dimmable-Bi-Color-3300K-5600K/dp/B01KZLM3QC/)]
Back down to Viltrox 116T prices!
https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-L116T-Dimmable-Bi-Color-3300K-5600K/dp/B01KZLM3QC/
That's good reasoning on lowering the limit. Thanks for keeping these going!
I love that you have light panels also
https://www.amazon.com/Viltrox-L116T/dp/B01KZLM3QC/?tag=parametrek-20
I've seen Adam Savages video using one of these lights. My dad would love this for our workbench.
Awesome and thanks! This looks interesting
https://www.amazon.com/Viltrox-L116T/dp/B01KZLM3QC/?tag=parametrek-20
Any other nice light panel would be cool too if the price changes or this goes OOS.
Thanks, Uncle Para.
Viltrox L116T
Thanks for all you do to support the community
https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-L116T-3300K-5600K-temperature-Brightness/dp/B01KZLM3QC
Thanks
https://www.amazon.com/Viltrox-L116T/dp/B01KZLM3QC/?tag=parametrek-20
Thanks! I'm in for a Viltrox VL116T.
Edited for the 116T.
Thanks as always Parametrek! Already have the 162 and love it, so will go for a 116. Viltrox :)
Hey, thanks for doing another giveaway! I'm in for a Viltrox L116T!
Thank you!
Since others recommended it:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZLM3QC/
Thank you!
Not the best but really damn good for < $100
http://www.amazon.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-Sports/dp/B00DP1WYD2
Mobius Dashcam?
http://www.amazon.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-Sports/dp/B00DP1WYD2
Mobius Actioncam; ~$77
http://www.amazon.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-Sports/dp/B00DP1WYD2
To be honest, that lens is complete ass. The Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 would be a really solid and affordable alternative.
That is precisely the right mentality to have. There are many people out there that lust over gear and they still have trouble with the basics. Keep your head up, keep shooting and you will improve.
I must also say that, personally, I'm biased towards prime lenses (single focal length). They tend to have excellent image quality BUT may not be very flexible. If you are looking for more flexibility (zoom lens) look for a Sigma 17-50mm 2.8. I've heard great things about this lens and will allow you to go wide and a bit narrow. It would be considered a significant upgrade over a kit lens.
New: https://www.sigmaphoto.com/lenses/standard-lenses/17-50mm-f28-ex-dc-os-hsm
Used: https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-17-50mm-Aperture-Standard-Digital/dp/B003A6H27K
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003A6H27K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I use a Sigma 17-50 2.8 as an every day carry and it works great.
What's the deal with lenses from Japan being super cheap on amazon? I'm looking at a $569 lens and it is $360 from Japan. There's a few other sellers as well from there with similarly priced lenses.
Edit: nevermind, now I see it is for full frame.
was looking for a more versatile lens to travel, as my 18-135 kitlens was really not sharp or fast enough. I was going to get a Tamron 24-70 f2.8 for around 600 euros. Until Someone suggested a sigma 17-50 f2.8 and I checked it out. Loved it, fast and sharp and versatile! Paid 270 euros. I use it for traveling, landscape and street photography. And use the prime 50 for portraits. Highly recommend it. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B003A6H27K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522534610&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=sigma+17-50mm+f2.8+canon
Looking for some lens suggestions. Will be traveling soon would like to upgrade the lens I have (Canon 70D with the kit lens Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM Lens)
Need an all around lens. Can someone please give any suggestions?
Saw the Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 EX DC OS HSM FLD on sale not sure if this would be good or if I should spend a few more bucks and get something better.
http://amzn.com/B003A6H27K
This combination of equpiment is used by a popular youtuber to make nail polish videos:
https://www.amazon.com/Nikon-D5300-Digital-Camera-Built/dp/B00FXYT12G
https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-17-50mm-Aperture-Standard-Digital/dp/B003A6NU3U
https://www.amazon.com/Nikon-Micro-NIKKOR-Vibration-Reduction-Cameras/dp/B000EOSHGQ
I'd like to have a setup that can take good close up videos of nails, but her setup is literally over $1500. Surely there must be a cheaper macro lens + camera combination? Hell, even the DSLR Isn't so bad to pay for, but that $900 lens is intense. I'm looking for alternative recommendations.
I have a 35mm 1.8 prime lens and a sigma 17-50 2.8 as my set up. They’re both crisp lenses and allow me to get most of the pictures I want to obtain. The low aperture allows for a nice bokeh. With the crop factor the 35mm is closer to a 50mm and the sigma is closer to a 25-75 which gives you a good range, not too wide or too zoomed in. The sigma is on sale at amazon for around 290.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003A6NU3U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_p8EzDbZF2WVH1
It depends on what you want to do with it. You have an APS-c camera, so your 50mm 1.4 will be more of a portrait lens (roughly 75mm equivalent) than a "normal" lens. If you like taking portraits, this will quickly become your go-to lens; though I will also throw out a recommendation for the Sigma 17-50 f2.8, which is also excellent and will act as a moderate wide angle-portrait lens on your camera, for a little over $100 more than the 50mm.
The 35mm 1.8 is a good recommendation because it's inexpensive and performs really well; but you don't need to buy it new. People offload that lens all the time when they move to an FX body, so you should be able to get a near-pristine one for somewhere around $120-$130 if you're patient.
edit: Sigma's is a 17-50, Nikon's is a 17-55.
That is the plan. This is the one that I would like to get
I'd recommend a lens with a wide zoom range. For lifestyle-type shots where you are shooting yourself/your friends/the journey from a more intimate perspective (read -- up close) and the occasional landscape, I'd recommend a lens that gives you at least a 18-24mm focal length at the bottom end. It's hard to take pictures of the car or your friends with a 200mm telephoto lens, unless you want an up close and personal shot of the pores on your friends' noses.
My 18-135mm kit lens that came with my Canon works wonderfully for me when I'm on trips. It's very versatile. The lens that I'm referring to is this (this is a CANON lens, it won't fit your Nikon):
https://www.amazon.com/Canon-EF-S-18-135mm-3-5-5-6-Lens/dp/B008UGMLWQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500062853&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=canon+18-135
.
Alternatively, for YOUR particular camera, I'd recommend something like this Sigma 17-50mm:
https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-17-50mm-Aperture-Standard-Digital/dp/B003A6NU3U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500062448&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sigma%2Bcanon&amp;th=1
The latter lens has a shorter zoom range (17-50mm) than my Canon lens that I mentioned, but you get a nice, low aperture of f/2.8 throughout the entire zoom.
A cheaper option that is similar to the Sigma lens that I mentioned above is a Nikon lens that can be found here:
https://www.amazon.com/Nikon-18-55mm-3-5-5-6G-Vibration-Reduction/dp/B00HQ4W4PC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500062981&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=nikon+lens+18-55
The Nikon lens listed has a variable aperture, and the lowest that it will go is 3.5. I'd spend the extra ~$100 and get the Sigma lens. You'd probably get a TON of use out of that Sigma for a long time.
Please feel free to reach out if you have some more questions. :-) There are some great people here.
do you find yourself missing the extra aperture at all compared to the 1.8 on the 35mm?
also what are your thoughts on this one instead? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003A6NU3U/ref=psdc_173565_t2_B000144I2Q
I suggest the Sigma 18-50mm
just a possible combo, with used prices from amazon:
_____
$1750
Is it this lens?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sigma-17-50mm-Optical-Stabilised-Nikon/dp/B003A6NU3U
35 1.8g https://www.flickr.com/search/?text=35mm%20f1.8g
sigma 17-50 f2.8 for nikon https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-17-50mm-Aperture-Standard-Digital/dp/B003A6NU3U?th=1
tamron 17-50 2.8 vc https://www.amazon.com/Tamron-17-50mm-Vibration-Compensation-Digital/dp/B002LVUIXU/ref=sr_1_2?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479243079&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=tamron+17-50+vc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gt0iMmC2qvo <-replace anytime he say 24-70 to 17-50 (24-75 equivalent in 35mm) and obviously it's not weather proof
sigma 17-50mm 2.8 lens has been great for me on my d5100. been a good all-around lens for traveling i've found and not a bad price point.
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I'm not a Nikon guy, sorry. But this one looks interesting.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003A6NU3U/
It's a zoom, but a 2.8 constant aperture one, and under $300 used.
Image gallery:
https://pixelpeeper.com/lenses/?lens=13315
In general, a prime would be faster with less distortion, but I'm not seeing any cheap ones right off the bat.
I'm looking to replace my Nikon 18-55 kit lens and I'm not sure on what to get. I've got a D5300 and mainly use my 35mm f/1.8, which I love, but I want something a little wider. I don't need anything extending into the telephoto range as I already have a 70-300 and a 150-500.
My 'dream' lens would be the Sigma 18-35 f/1.8, but it's beyond my budget. I'm currently looking at the Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 - is this a good choice? Is there a better option? Or should I wait & save up for something a little better?
I think MSRP is $669. Looking at the camelcamelcamel listing for it on Amazon, it seems to have dropped from $669 earlier this year to $369 over the course of several months. Even the Sigma website is advertising the $300 off though.
Now pretend you had selected 30 seconds in step 5. That's all there is to it. You can hold the button down forever and it will take one 30 second shot every 30 seconds.
The question is: How do you hold the button down for so long without having to actually hold the button down? That's what a remote release is for. Most of them have a mechanism to hold the button down for you. Usually you hold the button down then slide a switch up while still holding it down. The switch locks it into place.
I don't know if the IR remote you have as a "Hold" feature. It might not. But a wired remote release is very cheap. Here's one for under $7. Notice that the plate surrounding the button is actually a switch that locks the button down if you slide it upward.
However, if you're going to spend money, you may as well get a fancy one! That one is programmable, and will still work like I said above, even with no batteries. When programmed, you can do all sorts of things with it: time lapse, delayed shots, timed bulb shots. Even repeated, timed bulb shots, so you can take repeated exposures longer than 30 seconds, if you wish.
Here's a cheap one. I got the same thing for my camera just the one for sony instead. It does the job nothing really to say other than that lol.
something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Timer-Remote-Control-RS-60E3-Canon/dp/B003Q9RERY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1325360741&amp;sr=8-2
I've got the magic lantern now on my camera, but haven't took the timelapse function for a spin. ML is free, you might want to try that for a built in solution.
What do you think of this?
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer%C2%AE-Shutter-Release-Control-Hasselblad/dp/B003Q9RERY/ref=pd_cp_p_0
Neewer LCD Timer Shutter Release Remote Control for Canon 700D/T5i, 650D/T4i, 550D/T2i, 500D/T1i, 350D/XT, 400D/XTi, 1000D/XS, 450D/XSi, 60D, 100D, and Pentax https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Q9RERY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_28-IDb2K14JJ3
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Shutter-Release-Remote-Control/dp/B003Q9RERY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538492951&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=neewer+intervalometer+canon This is the one I have for my SL2 (200d) and it's great! Cheap enough that I don't have to worry about throwing it around, easy enough to use, and pretty darn handy!
I don't know of any tutorials off hand but you could just google "timelapse photography".
My setup was a tripod, Canon T1i DSLR, 8mm fisheye lens, and a cheap intervelometer.
A lot of newer cameras have timelapse functions built into the camera. GoPros, for instance. Otherwise you need an external intervelometer to trigger the camera shutter at whatever intervals you want to use.
My goal was to make a video about 1.5 minutes long so I made sure to use an interval that would equate to at least 30 frames per second in the final video, in order to have a smooth looking video. I shot for about 5 hours and came up with about 3500 individual photos.
To make a video out of those photos I used Adobe Premier and they make it pretty easy. I think(it's been a while) you just drag and drop them into the editor and it automatically creates a video clip which you then export.
To make the star trail photo I used a free program called Star Trails that stacks each photo on top of one another but only adds in differences between them. Photoshop can do this as well.
That one will work, but there are many less expensive options that are the exact same product, just branded differently.
I have this version, (as you can see, it's the same product) - only $18 - which works beautifully for any kind of intervalometry (time lapses) and also, the main button will trip the shutter remotely. If you have the camera in bulb mode, it's great for fireworks, since you can hold the shutter open as long as you like.
If you don't need any kind of intervalometry or programmability, but need to be able to hold the shutter open manually, this one is even cheaper yet. It's the one I use for fireworks.
You'll have to buy a third-party remote control that is compatible with your camera's remote port. I'm not vouching for it (I don't know how good/reliable it is), but here's an example of what you are looking for.
You might look into this camera release. It acts as a cable release and a time-lapse unit.
http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER®-Timer-Remote-Control-RS-60E3/dp/B003Q9RERY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1369785653&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=time+lapse+camera+release+Canon
You could also consider buying a remote shutter release (Here is what I bought for $20).
Having to press the shutter button will shake your camera and possibly make for a more frustrating imaging session, but using one of these lets you time shots and take pics without having to touch the camera body. I haven't personally used BackyardEOS or any of the apps but they offer similar (and more) benefits.
I actually just ordered one of these for my camera to see if it can do what I am thinking. Dunno but will give it a shot!
You can also pick up something like this pretty cheap, and just set it up to continuously take shots at your specified settings (0 interval).
I mean, if you're too lazy to sit there pressing the shutter release every 5-10 seconds.
This?
http://amzn.com/B00FP1BQ1Q
Or this
http://amzn.com/B003Q9RERY
I think a majority of Canon remote shutter releases work with most Canon DSLRS.I am wrong. Thanks /u/CarVac for correcting me.Unfortunately, there's not much that's cheap when it comes to photography.
"Macro" is a very specific form of photography. With the 50mm lens you linked I think the minimum focus distance would be at least 1.5 feet-2 feet. Meaning if an object is less than 2 feet away your lens will not be able to focus on it. That's the key to macro photography though, getting right up close and making small details bigger.
So while the depth of field of the 50mm you linked here will be much more shallow than the 18-55mm you own (at 55mm the widest you could go would be f/5.6) it won't do much better in the "marco" department.
With that said, you could get an extender tube. They super cheap but take a little practice to use well. Here's a shot of a penny I did using an extender tube: https://www.instagram.com/p/8jQi7XOwe2/?taken-by=sd_conrad
You can see the depth of field is so shallow, that because I wasn't shooting the penny head on the top of Lincoln's head is out of focus but the date is in focus. You'll need a tripod or a very very steady hand to be successful. It's hard to use but perfectly doable.
Here is the tube: https://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Canon-Extension-Extreme-Close-Ups/dp/B003Y60DZO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484930083&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=macro+extender+tube
Very cheap but not necessarily cheaply made. Although I'm paranoid and take great care there's no strain where the tube attaches to my camera body. I don't think you'd have to spend the money on a new lens to do macro stuff.
Lots of trial and error. Now I have an enlarger that I turned into a copystand with a $25 ballhead from ebay, a gooseneck lamp lit into an empty tissue box diffused by parchment paper and plastic from a milk jug. I was using a film carrier but I got something like this from B&H. I use about 0'8 second exposure and edit in lightroom, photoshop if I need it.
Edit/ I use these with my plastic fantastic 50mm on a t2i. Just have to stop down the lens to about f/5.0 before mounting on rings. I use the 14mm ring.
A ring flash typically mounts on the lenses filter threads so if the lens is reversed it will not be able to mount. Also I think an 18-200mm is a bit too heavy to be reversed without causing damage to the lens in the long term.
If you want my two cents:
I typically shoot with a normal zoom lens (35-80mm) or a prime lens like a 50mm or 28mm on a set of extension tubes and use a flash on a bracket. I also stick a softbox on the front of the flash to soften up the light a bit. Here's a great video that inspired me to take up macro photography and greatly influenced my macro rig
Also keep in mind that while using the extension tubes linked above, you won't be able to autofocus or control the lens aperture. If you shoot Canon there's a trick to setting your aperture on an unmounted lens. If you don't feel comfortable shooting In a full manual mode or without aperture control or autofocus. There are alternatives that allow autofocus and aperture control but I've never used these tubes so I don't know if they're worth the extra money.
If you have a 50mm lens, just get an extension tube. Doesn't need to be a fancy one with automatic features for this sort of work: https://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Canon-Extension-Extreme-Close-Ups/dp/B003Y60DZO
(1) I'm going to start DSLR scanning some rolls of film and I'm kinda perplexed about what kind of extension tube I will need for the macro portion of digitizing the film. I have a Canon Rebel t3i. Would something like this work? Fotodiox Canon Extension.
I just want something cheap and to get the job done. I have no plans to take this extension tube outside of the house for macro photography. Just want something that will get the job done for DSLR scanning.
(2) What kind of material would diffuse light best behind a negative? I've heard of this nylon diffusion fabric. Would tracing paper? Or a thin, white cloth work as well?
Thanks!
I have had this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y60DZO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IrcozbYYD0VTG for a few years until just recently ( got my first macro lens ).
It was amazing for the price. You need a lot more light because you can't control aperture but other than that, superb. Did thousands of macro shots with this tube.
Are you thinking of Macro Photography?
I bought this extender for $10 and it works wonders
The only downside is that it doesn't let the camera talk to the lens but that's no big deal because you can just get closer or farther away to zoom in and there is a little trick to change your aperture if you wish to do so.
Nikon D90 with a set of extension tubes and a reverse mounted, decently small aperture 50mm lens. It's also possible to mount two lenses together for even more magnification.
Ah, okay... so it seems like cheap tubes like this one don't have wiring built in, while pricier ones like this one do.
It seems like it would be so simple to just have the electrical connections, the cheaper ones could do it...
Oh wait, here's a cheap one with the stuff built in.
I just bought one a few days ago actually. I got it on Amazon for 11 dollars. Frankly, I consider macro photography to be mostly a novelty, something I wanted to get out of my system. Therefore, I think 80 dollar extension tubes are dumb. If you are serious about it, get a devoted lens, if you aren't, just play around with some cheap tubes. They are made of metal and feel solid, so I don't feel like you are putting your equipment at risk.
The lack of autofocus isn't a big deal. Lack of auto aperture is more annoying, but there is a cool trick to set it in advance: put your lens onto your camera as normal, set the aperture to what you want, hold the DOF button down, and then remove the lens while the DOF button is down.
I took this photo of my tv:
http://i.imgur.com/BTFpq.jpg
I got some other cool photos of quarters and other stuff, but I don't have them on me.
I just bought the first result macro extender from Amazon. It was about $13 and TOTALLY worth it. I've already gotten some awesome images with it. Highly recommend! Here it is!
Photography newbie looking for help! I was hoping to get a recommendation on which macro extension tubes to buy. I have a Canon EOS rebel T6 and any help would be appreciated.
I've decided between these two at the moment but would love to hear from anyone that has had experience with them before I make the purchase. And I'm open still to other products too!
Fotodiox Canon EOS Macro Extension Tube Set
Mcoplus EXT-CP Auto Focus AF Macro Extension Tube Set Lens Adapter Ring
My friend has a pair of red spitting cobras that laid 13 eggs which are starting to hatch and I can't think of better excuse to by myself some camera accessories!
Just gonna be straight up, I understood nothing after
> The filter macro option will distort your image and you will basicly be looking at a magnifying lens on top of your lens.
I am very new to DSLRs. Trying to learn more and more by watching videos on YouTube.
Maybe you can try explaining it in simpler terms? Thanks.
Saw another post in /r/canon about this. Is this what you are talking about in terms of extension tube set? I don't mind not having AF; I like manually focusing lol.
Extension tubes are the way to go for amateurs wanting to try macro out in my opinion. I got a set for about 10 bucks on amazon.
These work really well for me. They disconnect the lens from the body, so you won't be able to control the apature, but it really does the job. Here's a picture I got with them and a 25mm prime.
So, I just got some tubes to play in macro photography, and I think I am doing something wrong.
I stick them on my canon (SL1) with my kit lens and I have a very difficult time focusing. The tubes don't have AF ability, so I switch to manual, it almost seems as if my focus ring isn't doing anything. Also I don't seem to have any control over aperture. Putting on one of my primes (50 and a 24mm pancake) seems to work much better, but then if I am outside I find most of my shots seem washed out entirely—even at say 100iso and 1/250 speed.
Any thoughts or go to guides that might help me correct whatever error I'm committing?
I used the stock 18-55mm lens that came with my Rebel XS (kinda old, I know), but with this attachment between the lens and the body. It's super cheap, so there's no electronic pieces in the attachment, which means you have no auto-focus, and the f/stop is unchangeable. In turn, you can only get a sliver of depth in focus at a time, but it's the trade-off you take when you buy something so cheap. I'd buy it again in a heartbeat, though. I don't have the funds to buy a real macro.
Fotodiox Canon EOS Macro Extension Tube Set for Extreme Close-Ups
http://amzn.com/B003Y60DZO
There are also Nikon ones.
X-Rite ColorMunki Display (CMUNDIS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9aBIAbKFM74X2
Prolly expensive for most people to justify but I needed it for photography. Maybe you could get a used one to help with the price. It's a great tool and it makes the colors match my ips ultrawide.
I’ll check it out. It’s this right? X-Rite ColorMunki Display (CMUNDIS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T7dqDbT665KKK
Using a Colormunki Display.
http://www.amazon.com/Xrite-CMUNDIS-ColorMunki-Display/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1318325216&amp;sr=8-1
I use:
http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-CMUNDIS-ColorMunki-Display/dp/B0055MBQOM
Some may think I'm silly for dropping the cash on it, but when your ocd gets out of hand, it's been a life saver. No regrets. It creates a color profile based on your display after some testing that it runs through on their app, and viola, my anxiety is gone.
It is very likely that the default calibration of your monitor was pretty good.
With regards to actually calibrating your display, I have this and the best feature is the ability to dynamically adjust the colors based on ambient light. This makes a much more noticeable difference for me than simply calibrating the display once.
This is a decent budget one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0UmnDb3P3TRAG
Should use DisplayCal software anyway, so don't have to deal with the manufacturer software which is what all the bad reviews are complaining about.
>all i need to do is plug the DP cable that comes with the monitor into the 1.2 GPU port right, no special cables?
Yes that is correct.
Best way is use a colorimeter like this https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-ColorMunki-CMUNDIS-Accuracy-Calibration/dp/B0055MBQOM with calibration software, can get cheap old ones on ebay.
Nice. Thanks!
Which calibrator do you use? I am considering this one. What do you think?: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=37OHCI4Y1877Y&amp;coliid=I3JRNCS4JIAB1R
It was this one
If you are going to screw with white balance/color management system you need a meter and software. At minimum HCFR and a a colormunki display/i1display pro
http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-CMUNDIS-ColorMunki-Display/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421683481&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=colormunki&amp;pebp=1421683458220&amp;peasin=B0055MBQOM
If you get the colormunki however you cannot use commercial software like calman in the future.
If your tv has a RGB mode in the settings (it should) where it only shows the red green or blue channel. You can use test patterns and set color and tint atleast without any additional equipment.
I own this model. Highly recommended for the peace of mind. https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-CMUNDIS-ColorMunki-Display/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480961509&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=colormunki
is this it? http://smile.amazon.com/X-Rite-CMUNDIS-ColorMunki-Display/dp/B0055MBQOM
All of this is so true it hurts! It's very difficult to find information about the different screens out there. You're right that the info available is just about color space and not other aspects of quality. Also not all reviews out there are reviewing the IGZO model on the laptops that offer it.
Do you happen to know what kind of numbers or specifics I can look for when comparing monitors? Colorspace is easy, because it's a number I can find in the specs. What about display calibration? I've seen some that look like a funky mouse. Is it smart to get something like this?
Accuracy has been something i'm really worried about, but I'm not sure what metrics to look for.
Honestly at this point I'm leaning most heavily toward the XPS 15, but might wait for a new model.
Thinking that you might benefit from one of these.
Calibrate, then look at your previous attempts.
I just went with that one because it was the cheapest option. The Display price on Amazon seems to be much cheaper than the B&H price. https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-CMUNDIS-ColorMunki-Display/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478906924&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=colormunki
I recommend using a colorimeter to make a custom profile. I wanted better contrast and high saturation so I used one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0055MBQOM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 with display cal to calibrate for like 2.4 gamma.
I've been using a ColorMunki for two years now. Love the little thing. No need to understand how it works, I just put it on my screen once every few months and it does it's thing.
Did my new AOC AG352UCG yesterday :D
I use the colormonki by xrite, love it and made a huge difference when I used to print to my decent canon color copier. Also if you send files out for printing (adorama for example) you should get their color profiles and adjust your images as necessary so it will be wysiwyg.
Black and white probably not that big a deal, but for color it's great.
Every monitor is different, I used to go crazy seeing perfect color rendition on my screen, then looking at the same image on someone else's monitor and eeeekkk! I'm over that now, I reckon 90% or more computer users don't have any clue or care about it.
Thanks for sharing. This is pretty good if you have the stuff already laying around and don't mind keeping a bulky box around. I had been looking at some cheap setups on Amazon as listed below, but maybe a hybrid approach of getting a pre-made box that collapses and then using cheaper lights, including some I already have.
Just a world of caution, especially if you use halogen or incandescent lights with tissue paper... fire hazard, be careful there.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008JO1QGQ/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CX9S8A
LimoStudio 16" x 16" Table Top Photo Photography Studio Lighting Light Tent Kit in a... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CX9S8A/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_OndeAbQWW4CRQ
I heard this was a pretty good setup:
https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Photography-Studio-Lighting-AGG349/dp/B005CX9S8A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467387168&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=foldio
What is a good photo studio/light box for a starter who does not have much space in his house? I bought this because it looked like a good deal. I don't hate it, I just hate the amount of editing I have to do on the photos because of poor quality. Like this one I need to do a TON of editing to fix some of the imperfections.
I have this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CX9S8A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_onRXBbYRA0N0E
It's good enough but the fabric backgrounds were wrinkled which was annoying. You can see that in the photos. I'll show you some photos I took with it.
http://imgur.com/a/Wmauqy4
I looked on YouTube for where to put the lights. I hadn't thought of putting them outside the box. It makes a way better effect outside the box being diffused through fabric than straight on. Good luck!
Exactly. They also have lightbox styles such as this one. You can even buy 1 of these, cut up off each side and mount them in front of your lights. You want them to be a few inches off of the bulb to get quality diffusion and prevent the diffuser from melting/catching fire (be careful! Some lights get very hot). If you need smaller lights as well, Amazon has lots of all-in-one kits such this one
Natural, diffused light (a cloudy day) is best.
Do you have a tripod (essential).
Are you using the default camera app or something like Camera Awesome?
Something like this is really good: LimoStudio 16" x 16" Table Top Photo Photography Studio Lighting Light Tent Kit in a Box, AGG349
Although the lights are probably too yellow. Instead just use your painting lamp(s).
Here's what I use: https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Photography-Studio-Lighting-AGG349/dp/B005CX9S8A/ref=sr_1_51_sspa?keywords=light+box&amp;qid=1572890154&amp;sr=8-51-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyNktWNjdLSjhTT1NPJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDA5NzE0V0VRSk9CQ0ExUlVHJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2Mzg0MjIxSTBORFdUNVFQREVRJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmX25leHQmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
LimoStudio 16" x 16" Table Top Photo Photography Studio Lighting Light Tent Kit in a Box, AGG349 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CX9S8A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JMQQAb19A7TRG
Don't forget about lighting! Lighting is probably the most important thing with food/product photography. If your budget is really tight, I at least recommend picking up this inexpensive box and small but sturdy tripod to ensure sharp and detailed shots!
It's never too late! ...unless you glued parts together x_x
And Thank you! I use this:
LimoStudio 16" x 16" Table Top Photo Photography Studio Lighting Light Tent Kit in a Box, AGG349 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CX9S8A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EvGkybSDHRF61
but I found that 16x16 is a bit small for a model of this size, so I bought a larger tent separately. I used an iPhone5c camera
I've got the same item and am trying to recreate this shot with a similar quality.
http://i.imgur.com/MxQRWKS.jpg
My GF has a Nikon D3100 and I've been trying my best to replicate the shot, but am struggling mightily. I have no real idea as to what I'm doing and it seems as if the pictures my Google Pixel phone takes are much better. I've played around with the manual settings and have cycled through all of the preset options. I've tried with flash and without flash.
I also have this table top light box setup.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CX9S8A/
Here's a few examples of the pictures I'm getting.
http://imgur.com/a/tEWLj
I understand he's using photoshop as the shadows and edges are so clean, but how is he getting such a perfect edge? There isn't a single miscropped area within his picture.