(Part 3) Best network adapters according to redditors

USB pros: much easier to install, plug and play

PCI pros; faster speeds, more reliable

USB LINK: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Adapter-Archer-T2UH/dp/B00UZRVY12

PCI LINK: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Express-Adapter-TL-WDN4800/dp/B007GMPZ0A

An Alfa AWUSO36NH USB wifi card, an [Alfa R36 802.11 b/g/N Repeater and Range Extender for AWUS036H](https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-R36-Repeater-Extender-AWUS036H/dp/B004ZF0I3U/], a TP-Link 2.4GHz 24dBi Directional Grid Parabolic Antenna, and depending on how far away it is, a TP-Link 2.4GHz 24dBi Directional Grid Parabolic Antenna, and a TRENDnet Low Loss Reverse SMA Female to N-Type Male Weatherproof Connector Cable. You'll also need a tripod mount, and a meter long pole. This setup is very directional, but if you have a clear line of site, it's perfectly doable.

802.3af/at requires a handshake to deliver power, you'd need something like this to actually get useful power out.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-POE10R-Gigabit-Splitter-compliant/dp/B003CFATQK

A simple shut/no shut on the switchport would enable/disable power.

this is the one i use and it works perfectly! i use it to connect my laptop/desktop to bluetooth speakers and also to connect my phone to (those speakers). edit: (to my laptop, not my speakers lol)


http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GFX0PY/ref=s9_simh_gw_p107_d0_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=061ADVPMKWRRYXBGY6ZK&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1970559082&pf_rd_i=desktop

edit: if you have trouble with this, just go to their site and download the drivers.

Step 1) Cut the socket off C
Step 2) Cut the front of A
Step 3) Take out your soldering iron and wire strippers
Step 4) Buy https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ethernet-Portable-1-Gigabit-Chromebook/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E

I’m pretty sure the couple of people who downvoted this guy have no idea what they’re talking about

-something like this but it goes in the usb slot

X399 motherboard size, X399 motherboard pricing, X370 chipset.

I have a VI Hero. What's the point? It's the same X370 chipset with only 16 PCIe 3.0 lanes and 4 PCIe 2.0 lanes, only 1 M.2 SSD, same 8 SATA connectors, same gigabit — not 10 Gb — Ethernet. “Extra breathing room for videocards” isn't new either — VI Hero too has 2 slots separating its PCIe 3.0 slots. VI Extreme has the same SupremeFX S1220 audio as VI Hero.

Did I mention Crossfire/SLI works at x8/x8? And the motherboard costs $350 according to Asus https://www.asus.com/us/News/jTWOD9ZaAbcF5EAq I bet for the same amount of money you may want to get a Threadripper motherboard with X399 chipset which probably supports x16/x16 SLI/Crossfire.

The only thing I see being different is the number of fan pins, although VI Hero already had more than enough for a gaming prosumer tower. VI Hero supports custom water-cooling loops as well with its water pump and water sensor pins. Oh, and it looks like VI Extreme is a E-ATX motherboard so you will have to get a spacey case. VI Hero fits in regular ATX form factor.

There are literally 0 reasons to upgrade your motherboard. If you want Wi-Fi and Bluetooth, get Intel 8260 https://www.amazon.com/Intel-8260-IEEE-802-11ac-Adapter/dp/B0197W86IE/ or wait for 9260 to become available — it has Bluetooth 5.0. Well, and get some antennas as well. Or, if you are buying new, get VI Hero with Asus Wi-Fi module https://www.amazon.com/ROG-Crosshair-VI-Hero-Motherboard/dp/B072LX7WLN

In fact, if I were building right now, I would probably stick to $250 VI Hero since it's the same X370 chipset. And it's quite mature overall.

This is the adapter that is tested: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00BBD7NFU/ref=pe_3044161_189395811_TE_SCE_dp_1

I have ordered it as well to use on my LG C8. The adapter is said to be working despite the TV not recognizing it or showing the settings.

edit: made a table with the reported working results so far:

|Model|Adapter|Chipset|User|
|:-|:-|:-|:-|
|LG B7|CM B00BBD7NFU|?|cipher7777|
|LG B8|CSL B074THPF3L|?|wilberforceReginald|
| LG 65B7V|CM B00BBD7NFU|?|sliyk|

Just buy a usb to ethernet adapter!

Cable Matters USB to Ethernet Adapter (USB 3.0 to Ethernet / USB 3 to Ethernet / USB to Gigabit Ethernet / USB to RJ45) Supporting 10 / 100 / 1000 Mbps Ethernet Network in Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBD7NFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AufEDbNBKJMBS

• A book from No Starch Press
  
• An OpenBSD product
  
• Reddit Gold
  
• Ubertooth
  
• Alfa Wireless Card
  
• USB Condom
  
• Throwing Star LAN Tap
  
• WinRar
  
• Bitcoin
  

@frostlie You should definitely try this. Even in handheld mode, if you have a USB-C to Ethernet adapter, you should be able to play online.

Something like this should be adequate : https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E/

My apartment seems to have been designed with "no one ever uses anything but wifi" in mind so they made it so the only place you could put a router was in the closet. So I have to use one of these to get internet and it's reasonably fast but will occasionally start dropping packets like a motherfucker for a few minutes until it either goes back to normal by itself or you unplug it from the wall and plug it back in. I've been in games where I've just watched myself slowly rise from about 30 ping to over 500.

Get one of these. They aren't great but it's what you need. Runs off USB power so you stand a chance of not having to install electric.

UPDATE: The DM9601 USB hub is junk, the ethernet driver causes kernel panics and it appears to only be USB 1.1


TP-LINK TL-POE10R

Ethernet USB Hub

LED's and resistors from some kit I bought for an arduino

Good gigabit router : TP-Link Archer C5 - $77

Updated version : TP-Link Archer C1200 - $95 on sale at $70

Very good gigabit router : TP-Link Archer C7 - $90

The big metal thing up top is called Yagi antenna, which is basically just increases signal strength to nearby WiFi access points. Looks like this one

Connected to that is an external USB network adapter, looks like the awesome T-Link Archer or N150 connected to a USB extension.

​

So what OP is doing is extending range and connecting to a different nearby router, probably optimum wifi off campus or something.

​

EDIT: whoops, OP responded while i was typing. Didn't show up until now.

There's nothing specifically for Android and USB-C, but chances are a simple USB-C to Ethernet adapter will work just fine:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-1-Gigabit-Compatible-ChromeBook/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E

It is a bit expensive, but I trust Anker's quality, and it's Amazon, so it's pretty easy to return if it doesn't work.

a hem https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-1-Gigabit-Compatible-ChromeBook/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E

I'm 100% sure that is an intel 8260 wifi+bluetooth card.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Intel-Dual-Band-Wireless-8260/dp/B0197W86IE

CPU and GPU are under some copper pipe/plate.

But that already exists

Assuming you live in the dorms, don't use the WiFi, it really is utter garbage and I never had the patience to use it when I lived in Friely. If you have a device with an Ethernet port, your best bet is too use that, as it is much faster. If you happen to have a device without a Ethernet port, they make usb to Ethernet adapters such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00BBD7NFU

Hope this helps.

That device does seem to be available: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQRHQW4

The device doesn't necessarily have to be PoE capable. You could always run a PoE splitter (if it's active PoE) with an ethernet 4G modem/router

Or you can just get a PoE router and a supported 4G dongle like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G6FJM8I

You could get a bluetooth USB 4.0 dongle, here is the one I use:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007GFX0PY?pc_redir=1413280929&robot_redir=1

It has flawless support for OSX.

For the wireless card, I don't see many clients use anything other than 802.11 ac anymore. I'd suggest this card: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VEEBOPG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lived at UMass for 3.5 years. Played PC games all the time. Had a few different adapters, one rose above them all.

​

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CCMUN8C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

This sucker worked FLAWLESSLY! Still using it today with no problems.

While you could, it's non-standard and could destroy things that are plugged into it.

It's better to get a POE adapter like this one and use it instead.

Going by this article, this Panda USB Wifi Dongle appears to be fully compatible.

This thread from the Linux Mint forums also has some promising results if you require something faster. :)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CFATQK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003CFATQK

That's cheaper at $15 and offers selectable output of 5/9/12 volts, perfect for a fan. I used it with it's splitter counterpart to power a switch in a drop ceiling and it works great - I can't comment how well it works with a PoE switch, but it claims it is 802.3af compliant.

Using the Wireless Pineapple is the easy way of pulling off these attacks. I can assure you that they just utilize the aircrack-ng suite. You can buy an alpha NIC(network interface card) and Raspberry Pi. Although you can perform these on a laptop and a packet injection capable nic. You can either write a bash script, which is very easy if you are familiar with shell environment, and perform all the attacks plus more. Here is a script I wrote a couple years back that allow you to pull off some of the attacks. Also with some attacks that may not be included.

http://johnny-walker.net/scripts/wset.sh

How far is the shed from the house?

You have a few options:

• Bury a conduit with ethernet
  
  
• Wifi router or access point in shed with a high-gain directional wifi antenna
  
  
• Powerline adapters
  
  
• WiFi range extender
  
  Fastest, most reliable would be wired, of course. Also the most labor-intensive.
  
  Directional antenna could work well, assuming the shed has good line-of-sight to your existing wireless router.
  
  Powerline may or may not work (or work reliably), depending on how power is wired to the house and shed.
  
  Wifi extender would likely be slowest, and performance will be dependent on finding the right placement for the extender. It needs to be in range of your wireless router and the shed.

+1 for this hub.

Haven't run into any issues using it with multiple devices simultaneously (e.g. mouse + headphones + HDD), no random disconnections, no transfer speed problems from external HDDs, etc. And it really is incredibly compact compared to most similar hubs.

The only thing it lacks that some hubs have is a built-in ethernet port. That said, ethernet is usually only an emergency fallback solution these days, and the port dimensions would necessitate a much bulkier hub. You can always get a separate USB3.0 to RJ45 GbE adapter in case you want to carry it for specific occasions while saving space with the smaller hub most of the time.

http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Network-7260-HMWG-Wireless-AC-Bluetooth/dp/B00DMCVKMU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408124250&sr=8-1&keywords=intel+7260

I've bought multiple for different laptops. Works great.

I actually did this! If you want something that runs processes for a long time that you can walk away from (and is easy to remove the evidence), then it's a great option.

One caveat: If you want to do any kind of wireless hacking, I wouldn't get their suggested USB wifi. It didn't work for me. Instead grab this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EQT0YK2

I'm not techy enough to explain the why but it's the only model I could find at a reasonable price that could handle wireless monitoring required for hacking wifi signals.

The TP-LINK Archer C5 is a good cheap router.

If you have more in your budget, I'd go with the C7

And then, even better (imo) but more expensive, the Asus AC68U

It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!


Here is link number 1 - Previous text "so,"

Here is link number 2 - Previous text "so."



----
^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete

I'm having great success with my power line adapters I highly recommend them. I've heard people are having problems with the older generation powerline adapters though. Definitely go with 1200Mbps or faster.

These have been working great for me: http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-PL1200-100PAS-Powerline-1200/dp/B00S6DBGJM/ref=pd_sim_147_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41S1uTAeV1L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=10D8WC3JYRWPJVAJ70TA

1. Immediately! You don’t spin classes before, so you know what to expect. If the LB worries you, touch it and it’s gone from the screen. I low live classes, and think this is where the bike shines.
   
   
2. Absolutely. It will take a few weeks, but if you are controlling your diet and don’t increase calories with the peloton use, you will see a definite change!
   
   
3. Not qualified to answer—but can’t hurt to try!
   
   
4. You will be louder than the peloton if you have headphones on. The belt drive and magnetic resistance combined make a tiny, almost inaudible hum. Your breathing will be louder.
   
   
5. Hardwire. Your options are either the long cord, or a power line adapter. They work great!
   
   https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1200-Gigabit-PL1200-100PAS/dp/B00S6DBGJM
   
   
6. Not spin class, but gym. Tell them you’re moving?

This one apparently but it's not cheap.Also, this cheaper one claims to "work greatly" for Linux.

This is just my opinion, here are some "best of":

• https://www.pcgamer.com/best-usb-wi-fi-adapter/
  
  > This is a site that gets paid to promote items, although you probably can't go wrong with their choices
  
  
• https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/773852-best-wifi-adapter-for-a-pc-build/
  
  > linustechtips has users directly reporting their findings, and these are the most knowledge users for nerd things. little more reading involved here
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External-Antennas/dp/B00VEEBOPG/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1541883030&sr=1-1&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A4702745011
  
  > Personally, I'd get that one. It looks cool, and all the numbers are in a higher tier.

Few different build variants depending on your cousin's needs.

Note that this motherboard only has 2 PCIe slots, so you might not want to use a wifi adapter that's PCIe (I personally am partial to this IOGEAR ethernet-wifi adapter, but it's only 150mbps and the 300mbps version is more expensive at $44 bucks).

Special mention that the RAM is known to work with the motherboard.

　

4core/8thread CPU + 250GB SSD + 1TB HDD:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1400 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $157.49 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $77.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL - EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $93.99 @ Newegg
Storage | SK hynix - SL308 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $77.89 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $48.44 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Phoenix Video Card | $129.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $26.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus - PCE-AC55BT PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $31.90 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Cooler Master - R4-S8R-20AK-GP 28.9 CFM 80mm Fan | $4.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Asus - VS228T-P 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
Mouse | Redragon - Centrophorus M601 Wired Optical Mouse | $12.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $887.53
| Mail-in rebates | -$45.00
| Total | $842.53
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-26 04:04 EDT-0400 |

　

4core/8thread CPU + 120GB SSD + 3TB HDD:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1400 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $157.49 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $77.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL - EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $93.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Kingston - A400 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $51.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Phoenix Video Card | $129.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $26.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus - PCE-AC55BT PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $31.90 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Cooler Master - R4-S8R-20AK-GP 28.9 CFM 80mm Fan | $4.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Asus - VS228T-P 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
Mouse | Redragon - Centrophorus M601 Wired Optical Mouse | $12.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $903.08
| Mail-in rebates | -$45.00
| Total | $858.08
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-26 04:12 EDT-0400 |

　

faster 4core/8thread CPU with better cooler + 120GB SSD + 2TB HDD:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1500X 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $176.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $77.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL - EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $93.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Kingston - A400 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $51.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $66.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Phoenix Video Card | $129.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $26.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus - PCE-AC55BT PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $31.90 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Cooler Master - R4-S8R-20AK-GP 28.9 CFM 80mm Fan | $4.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Asus - VS228T-P 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
Mouse | Redragon - Centrophorus M601 Wired Optical Mouse | $12.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $899.58
| Mail-in rebates | -$45.00
| Total | $854.58
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-26 04:16 EDT-0400 |

You need to connect the antenna to a USB wifi adapter. The antenna on the wifi adapter takes an RP-SMA connector so you will need to buy an N-Type adapter as well.

I'd also swap the very expensive Wifi Ranger for the Alfa long range wifi receiver and Alfa wifi repeater

seen this one recommended. but not tried it personally, and it's not a tiny dongle.

Alfa Long-Range Dual-Band AC1200 Wireless USB 3.0 Wi-Fi Adapter w/2x 5dBi External Antennas – 2.4GHz 300Mbps/5GHz 867Mbps – 802.11ac & A, B, G, N
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VEEBOPG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vDJTBbX9DP7GH

Two options:

1. Get a set of Powerline Ethernet Adaptors. These allow you to run ethernet through the existing power lines in your home (without impacting their ability to deliver power), or
   
2. Get an external WiFi ethernet adaptor. This will plug into your PS4s ethernet jack, and will then connect to your WiFi router. A decent such adaptor is likely going to have better WiFi than is built into the PS4 (and you may be able to find one that has a better antenna as well).
   
   HTH!

I'll just leave this right here...

http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-Wireless-Long-Range-Screw-On/dp/B003YIFHJY


There aren't many better.

Damn, I can confirm this actually works! I already had the following adapter from Cable Works (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00BBD7NFU) which looks to be the black version of the one they discuss in that link.

I've just finished some testing on my B7 with UHD Remuxes of Lucy and Pacific Rim using the XPlay Plex client and the native Plex client. Both software clients are playing these high bitrate 4k Remuxes over Ethernet without any issues for the first time ever!

This has been the biggest issue I've had with my B7 since i purchased it in 2017 as I have all my video content on a large Plex server and was extremely disappointed to learn about LG's decision to go with a 100MB connector on its ports given the issues I saw with my high bitrate 4k files.

Great post, OP!

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 to RJ45 Gigabit Ethernet Network Adapter in Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBD7NFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hgxnzbFE98ZEK


Any USB 3.0 specific adapter like this is going to work fine.

No worries, I just clicked the little snoo on PCPP :)

If you want a build to grow on, this is a great place to start. Lots of flexibility for a CPU upgrade, solid power supply that will last a few builds, you definitely hit the sweet spot.

The only thing I would personally change would be swapping the wireless adapter for a power line adapter, like this.

I've used a similar model for a few years and have always been pretty pleased. No desire to go back to wifi anytime soon.

Ok, so you basically setup a router behind another router?

In your situation, you've created a second network, and what you want to actually do is setup your router as a bridge.

Just google your "routermodel# + bridge" and you should get some step by step instructions. Here's a general how-to

Hopefully your router is capable of being configured this way

edit: easiest way would be buy a powerline adapter and just use your router as an access point.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Wireless-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00JZFG6QS

TP-Link Gigabit Ethernet PoE Splitter Adapter (TL-PoE10R) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CFATQK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ce5JAbHA2T34C

Adjustable voltage too so you can use them for multiple devices. I use them to power a 5 port switch too.

If you want to use your CAT5 how about a "real" PoE splitter?

You just need to replace the switch in your central location with an PoE switch or use PoE injectors.

Power over ethernet is probably the cheaper, simpler and more reliable way to power the HDHR. So the cable run would go Ethernet switch > PoE injector > Cat 6 cable > PoE splitter > HDHR. The cost for both the injector and splitter should be less than $50.

Here's an example of a splitter:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Splitter-TL-PoE10R/dp/B003CFATQK

Nah that's just pure Ethernet. An Ethernet powerline allows you to connect to Internet via wall plugs. Just plug one module in near the router and another near you, one connected to your router and the other to your PC. Much more reliable than wifi, although it won't solve your phone problem. Although I guess you could connect that end to an extender? Well here's one for example: https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter-TPL-401E2K/dp/B004D9V8C8

Yep it's your WLAN. With an ethernet cable or power-line networking (something like this http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter-TPL-401E2K/dp/B004D9V8C8 no idea if that particular model is good, but something like that) your issues will likely go away. If you need to use wlan, it could be a variety of things. If the signal is just erratic, you could try putting your router closer to your PC or install a signal repeater (another router). It could also be that your router is bad, or your WLAN adapter is bad. You'll have to find that out. If your adapter is bad, the best thing you can do is probably to buy a cheap $35 router, install OpenWRT on it, set it to client mode and use it as an adapter. (You can put the router in your room and connect your PC over an ethernet cable to it.) That requires a bit of reading and configuring though, not everyone's thing.

actual throughput:
http://forums.macrumors.com/archive/index.php/t-1357800.html

http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter-TPL-401E2K/product-reviews/B004D9V8C8/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_img?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

http://www.amazon.com/review/R2HJHOCV9X9M2T/ref=cm_cr_quotes_dprb_1?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B008F537KC&nodeID=541966&store=pc

http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/the-best-powerline-networking-adapter-trendnet-tpl-401e2k/
"Let’s take a look at some benchmarks that demonstrate these issues. When SmallNetBuilder reviewed the Netgear Nano 500, they found that it peaked at a downlink speed of 134 mbps, while the TrendNet peaked around 120 mbps. But there’s a catch. That speed was measured when the adapters were plugged into the same wall outlet, minimizing any risk of attenuation or noise. When the adapters were plugged in on two floors at opposite ends of a home, throughput dropped to 49.6 mbps for the Netgear and 50.2 mbps for the TrendNet."

But it does work fabulously with this iogear bt adapter.

IOGEAR Bluetooth 4.0 USB Micro Adapter (GBU521) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GFX0PY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_3A7Hub14SNG7G

If you'll just be using a wired connection why not just drop the Wifi adapter and get a micro bluetooth adapter like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GFX0PY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you can plug in using a wire, I recommend doing so, as it is faster and more stable. You can pick your color/length for solid price here.

If you're in a situation where you can't plug into your router/modem, then wifi is your next choice. Something like this will work just fine, but if you're comfortable attaching a card to your motherboard, this will provide a stronger and more reliable experience.

A good way to gauge compatliablity is looking at Amazon reviews by using their keyword search.

It's has a couple reviews with Ubuntu users. Older reviewers (2013-2014) had problems. More recent reviews (2015-2016) seem to indicate it works fine. I'd imagine it's gotten improved kernel support since its release.

Edit: It's shipped and sold by Amazon. So if you do come across issues they'll refund and pay for return shipping within 30 days of purchase. So it's a good way to test it out without too many worries.

m/96 cqc 2000 hmak Backpack (Military)

Camo rain poncho / mini tent (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07MQPJ6WZ/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1)

alsvik sitting pad (alsvik naturecenter norway)

3 home-made 1 store bought Cat5 cabels (Homemade)

cisco serial cabel w/ usb adapter (https://www.amazon.com/Cisco-72-3383-01-Console-Cable-RJ45-to-DB9/dp/B000GL3MOY)

Extension cabel 4 socket (Hardware store)

Ninja black hair ties (Everything store in town)

Ridge wallet alu (https://www.ridgewallet.com/)

2 wifi adapters (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anewish-433Mbps-Wireless-Supports-Black-Gold/dp/B01G77I46G/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_23_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=03C7FX31M2RK737GXZ99)

2 Power adapters for usb (Came with phone)

mix of USB A -> USB B/C/mini C (Came with phone)

Pens ("Borrowed" from work)

Sticky notes ("Borrowed" from work)

ID Card in card holder (Work)

Homekey / Keys to mix of server racks closets(https://www.replacementkeys.co.uk/utility/server-cabinets/)

USB with windows (https://www.microsoft.com/software-download/windows10)

Nail clippers (Everything store in town)

Ethernet adapter (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00BBD7NFU/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=cable+matters+ethernet+adapter&qid=1568050801&s=computers&sr=1-4)

Bicycle light front and back (Everything store in town)

Leather holster for knife (came with knife)

Leather holster for lockpick (came with lockpick set)

Utility knife ("Borrowed" from work)

Wire strippers/ wire clippers ("Borrowed" from work)

Flat head isolated screwdriver ("Borrowed" from work)

Lockpick set (https://www.amazon.co.uk/20-Piece-Lock-Transparent-LockCowboy-Locksmiths/dp/B01CHWIP32)

Really banged up knife that has seen better days (Christmas gift)

and last my phone that took this picture (Huawei p30 pro)

​

If you have any questions please ask them, I'll do my best to awnser

Never seen a Surface like device with an Ethernet port. I doubt one exists. They are mobile devices so an Ethernet port is counter to it's primary function.

>absolute best (reliable & smallest) usb adapter for Ethernet?

Hard to say... reviews are scarce. There's this from 2013:
http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2415501,00.asp
Still a good choice and there are interesting options...
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B0095EFXMC/. 476 reviews 4.5 of 5

This from 2016 ... but 10/100??? Not fastest.
http://www.wirelesshack.org/our-picks-for-best-usb-to-ethernet-adapter.html
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00ET4KHJ2/ 804 reviews 4.3 of 5


Amazon popularity contest and products I have had good luck with
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00BBD7NFU/ 807 reviews 4.2 of 5

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC0H9IE/ref=psdc_13983791_t3_B0095EFXMC 584 reviews 4.7 of 5

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00AQM8586/. 767 reviews 4.5 of 5


So maybe the Anker model however... would you want fries ports with that?

This is what I currently use. It basically will switch from being an Ethernet adapter to being a read-only flash drive that has the driver on it if it detects the Ethernet adapter isn't being used or something along those lines. The adapter I linked is plugged into my dock and after I have my computer undocked for a while and I reconnect it, it must believe the drivers got uninstalled or something because it will switch from being an Ethernet adapter to being a USB drive in My Computer with the drivers. Immediately after you open the driver installer, it detects the drivers are already installed and switches back to being an Ethernet adapter.

I can deal with it, but end users won't be able to, so I'm looking for an adapter that doesn't do this. Problem is many sellers don't even advertise the specifics of this functionality, so I'm wondering if anyone has direct experience with one that doesn't have this

Sure.

My tv is LG65B7V

the dongle I bought from Amazon is at the following link;

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BBD7NFU/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_8?smid=A2HI77ZYQGGRR3&psc=1

​

Please keep in mind that I have also tried a usb 2.0 dongle which the TV didn't recognise, I randomly tried this 3.0 one (got the tip from the LG Wbos forums) and it really did the trick for me. I was going towards bashing-head-against wall frustration levels.

Hey do you guys think this will work with the Switch?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BBD7NFU/ref=crt_ewc_title_gw_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1AMUYYA3CT6HJ

If not can you recommend one because the Nintendo one is hella expensive and the amazon one says it'll take 4-5 months.

dell makes a usb to Ethernet dongle, and other type adapters can be found online for very cheap. https://amzn.com/B00BBD7NFU

It was this mini pci wireless card.

You're 2 wireless generations behind at this point. 802.11N is the most common nowadays, AC being the new kid on the block since Q3 of last year. You're on a G wireless router.

Time to invest in the future buddy.

Most here will suggest Asus, /u/v-_-v will probably suggest a Ubiquiti light + some WAP (starting to know you guys :D). I also have and Asus and I've fairly content with it. Tell us your budget and what your network looks like and we'll give you some more info.

edit: I use one of these on my lappy. Decent performance.

Not a lot of options if any.From what I gather you need to modify bios to allow other whitelisted (compatible cards)Have a read here.Then google compatible cards for your model after bios mod.Be sure you thoroughly know what you are doing before flashing bios.

http://forum.techinferno.com/lenovo-ibm/4668-lenovo-y410p-y510p-unlocked-bios-wlan-whitelist-mod-vbios-mod.html

Read this
https://outhereinthefield.wordpress.com/2014/03/08/replacing-wifibt-combo-adapter-on-lenovo-ideapad-y510p/

This card should be compatible
http://www.amazon.com/Intel-7260-HMWG-Wireless-AC-7260-Bluetooth/dp/B00DMCVKMU

Life is too short and USB adapters are cheap. Stop fighting with the EW-7811 and get something that is known to work: https://www.amazon.com/Panda-300Mbps-Wireless-USB-Adapter/dp/B00EQT0YK2

This installs the latest 64-bit Nvidia binary:

$ sudo eopkg it nvidia-glx-driver

If you wish to use Steam, you will also want to install the latest 32-bit version of the driver:

$ sudo eopkg it nvidia-glx-driver-32bit

https://www.thinkpenguin.com/gnu-linux/penguin-wireless-n-usb-adapter-gnu-linux-tpe-n150usb

Works perfectly out of the box, drivers are included in the kernel. Pricy though, 25$+10$ of shipping. I can confirm out of the box support with gentoo, Debian, arch, and Ubuntu

https://www.amazon.com/Panda-300Mbps-Wireless-USB-Adapter/dp/B00EQT0YK2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1550105348&sr=8-4&keywords=panda+wireless

Also works with the right drivers, I can confirm it works out of the box on arch, Debian and Ubuntu. A lot cheaper. 13$$


Both of these get 50Mbps down, I don’t know what kinda internet your playing with but these two work well.


This site works pretty well. Figure out the chipset of the device your looking at and look it up.

https://wireless.wiki.kernel.org

Here is a basic one for 14$. It will support all monitor and injection mode, it's still still pretty good for a basic wifi adapter.

Panda 300Mbps Wireless N USB Adapter

But if you to go to the top notch level and get the best of best wifi adapters. I suggest go with this one. It's super powerful with the fast Atheros chip, supports all the necessary modes, and it's still not an outrageous price.

Alfa Awus036nha

Either there is no built-in wireless adapter at all, or Linux can't see it.

You may have to buy one. In my experience, WiFi adapters can be hit-or-miss on linux. If you're lucky, you can go to the store and buy one and it will work out of the box. If not, you may have to return it to the store and try a different model, as many times as necessary until you find one that works.

I know on my old Dell laptop, it had a builtin wireless adapter that worked fine. When we needed to hook up a desktop computer at home to WiFi, we bought a cheap one from the store, and again it works out of the box.

Then the next time we needed to hook up an additional desktop to Wifi, we bought another adapter and it didn't work. That time we had to try at least 3 different ones before we found one that worked right.

Your mileage may vary. But whatever you do, don't waste time trying to get it to work if it doesn't do so out of the box. This is utterly futile; most mainstream distributions ship with all wireless drivers preinstalled have all wireless drivers readily available in the repository, so if you don't already have the driver available by default can't easily install the driver using the package manager, then it simply doesn't exist. Just take the thing back to the store for a refund and try a different one if it doesn't work.

Just make sure you buy from a store with a good return policy.

-----------------

EDIT: correction. Ubuntu actually seems to package firmwares individually, so you might have to find and install the proper firmware for your adapter. Or, if you don't know which one is the right one, just install all of them just to be safe, that should work fine too. Either way, they should be easily installable like any other package, if they exist at all. If you find yourself thinking you might need to do some kind of complicated workaround, don't. Just take it back to the store and try a different one.

-------------

EDIT 2: Or, you could just buy one specifically labeled as being supported under linux, that would definitely take the guesswork out of it. Like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Panda-300Mbps-Wireless-USB-Adapter/dp/B00EQT0YK2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482805974&sr=8-3&keywords=linux+wireless+usb+adapter

If you want one that's guaranteed to work with Linux, you'll probably have to order online. Most that you buy in stores are only labeled as working with Windows and maybe Mac; they might work just fine with Linux anyway but it's sort of a crapshoot. In those cases it's nearly impossible to know from the packaging, since sometimes even adapters that are marketed as the exact same product may actually use different chipsets internally.

I've always taken my chances with the in-store purchases due to convenience of not having to wait for shipping, but buying a specifically Linux-oriented one online would certainly take the guesswork out of it.

Then something like this probably - it's not Atheros, but it's Ralink (aka MediaTek), and works fine. It's probably as much as you're going to get for ten bucks.

Drop the wireless, buy pair of powerline adapters, wired connections, even ones that borrow your powerlines will usually net you better gaming ping times, etc.

Edit, ouch, downvoted, was only trying to help, Wireless is a horrid technology, and some people feel it's the only option. I'm here to tell you Powerline is the wave of the future. Obivously not for everyone, but I just upgraded my system in my bedroom and I'll never go back to wireless.

Actually, they are. But not like the example in this picture.

Netgear AC1200 Wi-Fi USB Adapter High Gain Dual Band USB 3.0

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MRVJY1G/ref=twister_B01HIS9M3M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-PL1200-100PAS-Powerline-1200/dp/B00S6DBGJM

Same price on Amazon, they usually get my orders right.

Yes, there are multiple USB WiFi adapters that will work with Linux. I just received a EDIMAX AC600 for a small work project that came with the Linux drivers on CD.

A co-worker also purchased an [Alpha Long-Range AC1200] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VEEBOPG/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_4tklDbRERW39Y) and has it working with Kali.

By no means is this an extensive list, but just a couple that I've seen success with in the past few days alone.

No not all of them come with the clip. My first Alfa card didn’t come with a clip. I just ordered Alfa Long-Range Dual-Band AC1200 Wireless USB 3.0 Wi-Fi Adapter w/2x 5dBi External Antennas - 2.4GHz 300Mbps/5GHz 867Mbps - 802.11ac & A, B, G, N https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VEEBOPG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vG4hDbF6ZJXR2 a couple of days ago and it came with the clips.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-1-Gigabit-Compatible-ChromeBook/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E

Sounds like you want something like This

You can use something like this that takes in a Wi-Fi connection and converts it to Ethernet

EDIT: This one doesn't support Enterprise :(

You can use a simple ethernet to WiFi adapter like either of these from IoGear:

Ethernet to Wi-Fi N Adapter for Home or Office, GWU627

Ethernet-2-WiFi Universal Wireless Adapter, GWU637

These are called "mesh networks" and Google is far from the only company that makes them. There is also the option of using powerline extenders with wifi access points on them. They have the advantage of being significantly cheaper, but require compatible house wiring.

It's possible to upgrade the Wifi card in the 7567, with the most common upgrade being an Intel 8260 or 8265. You can find them for roughly $25-$30 online.

Amazon Link to 8260: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-8260-IEEE-802-11ac-Adapter/dp/B0197W86IE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502720437&sr=8-2&keywords=intel+8265

Amazon Link to 8265: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-AC-8265-NGWMG-BlueTooth-Brown/dp/B01MZA1AB2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502720437&sr=8-1&keywords=intel+8265

>PCGenius101

good on you for catching his attempt. That is freaking creepy. Even better you shared.

If you are getting slow speeds, you can fix it yourself. Run a wire to your router first and see if its an adapter(wireless) or if its something in windows. IF the wired connection is all good, then check with the manufacturer about an updated wifi driver. Or, just get a cheap usb wifi adapter and be done with it.

​

like this one https://smile.amazon.com/EDUP-ac600Mbps-Wireless-External-10-6-10-13/dp/B01CCMUN8C/ref=sr_1_3?

there's an easy fix for that.

Yep as the other guy said, either get a motherboard with wifi built in, or get a simple USB adapter for wifi. Something like: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CCMUN8C/

Yes I do (Althought I always recommend Cable over Wifi ,but I'll just assume that isn't a possiblity for you :P )

The Archer T series are good. The 3 models come up as top, T6E , T8E , T9E. Some do 802.11AC wifi others don't. Depends on your router and home network if you would have any use for that.

Those are all PCI Cards you place inside your PC. The Asus PCE-AC68 also deserves a mention if we are talking about High performance Wireless cards. Althought its expensive.

You can also go the USB route, you'll end up with dongles like this Netgear AC1200 which is a excellent USB options, but once again pricey (See the trend, dont worry we are getting there)

A more affordable PCI Options would be this TP-LINK WDN4800 N900 or a USB dongle like this TP-Link WDN4200 N900

And if you are really low on funds you could go for something like the Asus USB-N13 for 18$ or TP-Link N300 which is only 11$.

Personally I'd recommend you grab the TP N900, either the PCI or USB variant would do fine , PCI is faster, USB is probably a bit more versatile as you can use it with any PC/Laptop. N900 gets great reviews all around and it supports 802.11N , should be plenty fast for gaming. One issue the N900 seems to have is Digital signage with W10 ,so you need a different driver than the official one to get by this issue and use 5ghz. Not sure if thats relevant for you.

Either way ,you see the trend, Asus and TP-link are really my go2brands for anything networking.

I realize I still gave you a ton of choices, might not be the most helpful, but atleast you'll have some direction to look.

Wireless adapter is pretty much a mass commodity product now. They are all pretty inexpensive (if you don't go for 4x4 ones). The #1 issue with them is the driver/os compatibility. You can check amazon review for a particular product for that (pce-i adapater tends to run into this type of issue more than usb one).

the 2nd issue, this is somewhat usb adapter specific is dissipation. some of those mini usb ones just aren't designed for continuous operation. I am using this one. It works

Wherever possible, always use wired Ethernet.

If Wi-Fi is your only possible option, then it doesn't much matter whether you have it built into your motherboard, on a PCIe card, or via USB.

Personally I prefer USB 3.0 Wi-Fi adaptors such as this one. They are easily movable from machine to machine if you ever want to repurpose it for something else later on.

Make sure whatever Wi-Fi adaptor you get supports 802.11AC and 5GHz networks.

I'd recommend this Netgear USB 3.0 / AC1200 for $26

Since it's 2017, it's a good idea to get something dual-band, 802.11ac-capable, capable of at least 2 spatial streams, and that uses USB 3.0 or better (USB 2.0 is too slow to keep up with 802.11ac dongles). Netgear is a long-established brand name in home networking, and hopefully that $26 price doesn't break the bank.

Okay I changed a few things to save you some money and get more bang for you buck.

• i5-6500 with the money you saved
  
• Dropped the CPU cooler. If you're not getting a "K" series CPU it comes with a cooler that will work just fine.
  
• You don't need a fancy motherboard trust me. This will do the job plus it supports DDR4 2133 Memory
  
• 8GB 2133 Memory. I have the same motherboard and I'm very happy with it.
  *Why pay more for the same SSD
  
• I guess you could be picky about a case, but lets be honest you don't need some fancy case that just hold your computer components together.
  
• Same monitor specs cheaper price
  
• PLEASE don't buy Windows 10 for that price. Microsoft offers a free upgrade from Windows 7 and 8. You can find it cheaper trust me.
  
• Don't get a PCIe WiFi adapter. A USB 3.0 adapter is going to work better you can get a much larger antenna plus the cord will allow for better placement. I have this one and I've very happy with it LINK
  
  PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
  
  Type|Item|Price
  :----|:----|:----
  CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $194.99 @ SuperBiiz
  Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $49.99 @ Amazon
  Memory | Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $26.99 @ SuperBiiz
  Storage | Sandisk SSD PLUS 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $41.39 @ Amazon
  Storage | Hitachi Deskstar 7K2000 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $54.85 @ Amazon
  Video Card | Gigabyte Radeon R9 380X 4GB WINDFORCE 2X Video Card | $224.49 @ SuperBiiz
  Case | Deepcool TESSERACT BF ATX Mid Tower Case | $33.99 @ SuperBiiz
  Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $74.99 @ SuperBiiz
  Monitor | Asus VS228H-P 21.5" Monitor | $99.99 @ Amazon
  Keyboard | Microsoft ANB-00001 Wired Slim Keyboard | $12.99 @ Directron
  Other| XBOX 360 wireless adapter| $15.99
  | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
  | Total | $830.65
  | Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-07 00:49 EDT-0400 |

I have these:

Wireless-AC 7260 for Desktop Network Adapter

Alfa Long-Range Dual-Band AC1200 Wireless

Rosewill RNX-AC1200UBE - Dual Band Wireless AC1200 Adapter

All work fine with an RT-AC66U.

I use this: https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00MX57AO4/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1467488433&sr=8-9&keywords=wifi+usb+ac

Note that the included usb dock is 2.0. I am still using the dock though as I have not had any reason to buy a usb 3.0 dock.

Here's 2 products I'm currently considering.

2.4Ghz 2000Mw antenna - $50 CAD

vs

5Ghz dual band Usb 3.0 antenna - $86 CAD

What do you think should I get? the more modern 5ghz dual band one or the much bigger and beefier 2000Mw antenna?

To be totally honest, if you're trying to replicate wifi, then use a wifi dongle.

These SDRs are not going to be able to provide the frequency range or the bandwidth you need.

You can get an Alfa wifi dongle (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MX57AO4/) for about $40, and using them in promiscuous mode will allow for more options akin to what you're trying to do.

To echo what /u/Just7 said, the wired network adapter and soundcard are unnecessary. You might also want to consider dropping the PCI wifi adapter and look into something like an Alfa, which is cheaper, tends to perform better, and frees up a precious PCI slot.

In theory, a high gain antenna talking to a normal access point will increase the range substantially. High gain antennas on both ends obviously are better. A repeater could be used if a reasonable place to put one and a reasonable source of power are both available, but where I'm sitting I can get the faintest bit of wifi on cool calm nights so I'm expecting a better antenna to solidify that connectivity.

I just ordered this so I'll konw in a few days how well it works with the stock antennas, if I can avoid buying directional antennas that would be super.

I would get a USB wireless dongle, USB extension, and a directional antenna. To make this work, the dongle must have a removable antenna. If shipping is not an expense, I would buy step-by-step, starting with the dongle, then extension, finally the antenna (and antenna mounting solution).

I have no personal experience with this equipment. It was chosen because of features (like replaceable antennas) and Amazon reviews.

Alfa AWUS036AC Long-Range Dual-Band AC1200 Wireless USB Adapter With 2x Dual-Band (2.4GHz / 5GHz) external antenna for Extreme Distance Connection - Up to 300 Mbps - USB 3.0 - AC1200 Wireless chip - USB desktop Dock Included

CableCreation Gold (Long 16FT) Super Speed USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable, USB 3.0 Extender USB A-Male to A-Female Cable, 5Meter/16ft, Black

Alfa APA-M25 dual band 2.4GHz/5GHz 10dBi high gain directional indoor panel antenna with RP-SMA connector (compare to Asus WL-ANT-157)

All together, this is 95 CAD, but I expect the first item will solve the problem. If you do get the high-gain antenna, try it as a replacement of each of the side antennas on the USB dongle. This is because one antenna might be more important to the device then the other.

I have the z97-E version which doesn't have integrated Bluetooth but I got a generic Bluetooth dongle working and this wifi adopter working with el cap.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MX57AO4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Have you eliminated powerline converters as an option?:

https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-PL1200-100PAS-Powerline-1200/dp/B00S6DBGJM

I made a post about this yesterday and somebody recommended this... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S6DBGJM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_W.cdAb83366N9

You get two adapters, plug one in by your modem and connect via ethernet cable and plug the other by your Xbox and connect it via ethernet cable. They talk to each other through your electrical system and I guess are as good as being hardwired to your modem.

I would try a Powerline adapter then.

NETGEAR PowerLINE 1200 Mbps, 1 Gigabit Port (PL1200-100PAS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S6DBGJM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ng9qzbWP9TJ3Y

Most motherboards don't come with wifi capabilities by default. You can, however, add wifi to the PC.

USB: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Adapter-Archer-T2UH/dp/B00UZRVY12/

Most of the new Xfinity combo routers are dual 2.4 and 5ghz. Look on the front of yours and see if there is a 5ghz status light.

If it does have 5ghz, see if your laptop (that works fine) also has 5ghz. Most new laptops and phones do. If it does, then you've figured out why it works for one device and not the other! The 5ghz frequency is much less crowded than 2.4 and is an absolute miracle in crowded apartment complexes where there are many hotspots.

If it turns out that the 5ghz works fine, then the simplest solution to your problem would probably just be to buy a new adapter for your computer that supports 5ghz

This should work just fine for you but you could also get This as an alternative.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/D8jVNQ

Good Value Pc with all of the components that you'd need to build the Pc and run it including a copy of Windows( except maybe a Wifi adapter if you wanted to ue the internet and didnt have ethernet , link here if you did need to purchase one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UZRVY12/?tag=pcpapi-20 )

​

If you need help with the build, guides like these https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhX0fOUYd8Q are excellent , however if you do have any problems during the build , reddit will be more than happy to help

Any commidity ~$15-20 USB dual-band wifi dongle would probably do just fine. Depends on how congested your wifi bands are, you may want to take a look using something like Wifi Analyzer (mobile app). One with a proper antenna may do better if your signal isn't as good, but I've used the tiny pinky-sized ones before in more suburban areas without issue. If you're packed in an apartment or dense living with a billion WAPs you may want better equipment on both the router and adapter side.

ex.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN725N-wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B0088TKTY2

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-T2UH-Dual-Band-Compatible/dp/B00UZRVY12

The cheaper no-name ones may still be just fine as well.

i have been there, look 99% global brands of Usb Adapters dont even have good advanced features like aggressive roaming, channel selection, mode and stuff, too limited.
I dont know what exactly you are trying to achieve here, if it's higher range because Hotel's AP is far from you then go with antenna based usb adapters no nano will save you,
if it's speed issues i doubt it has something to do with your Laptob, hotel bandwidth maybe limited,
unless you explain further i can't really help out..
if you want a blind suggestion for strong USB adapter
here you go :https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00VEEBOPG?ref_=ast_bbp_dp

I use power lan's to connect to my network, faster then wifi and better pings, have you considered this?

If this would also not an option, sometimes I use an USB high power wifi adapter

Alfa Long-Range Dual-Band AC1200 Wireless USB 3.0 Wi-Fi Adapter w/2x 5dBi External Antennas - 2.4GHz 300Mbps/5GHz 867Mbps - 802.11ac & A, B, G, N
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VEEBOPG/

This thing penetrante walls like crazy, and has an insane range.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VEEBOPG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dI8.Cb9ZDQDQ2?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf


You’ll need one of these. There’s YouTube tutorials for MAC address changing and how to remain undetected when you do this. Don’t browse anything that will get you in trouble.

Just a suggestion, there are so many other good products out there than C&A. Just make a VM of Kali and get any wireless card that can do monitor/promiscuous mode. It's just

​

Any alfa card should work i think but I use the following.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN722N-Wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=atheros&qid=1554314194&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUSO36NH-Wireless-Long-Rang-Network/dp/B0035APGP6/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=atheros&qid=1554314194&s=gateway&sr=8-8

​

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00VEEBOPG/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=AWUS052NH&qid=1554314402&s=gateway&sr=8-2

Do you actually want a docking station, or do you just want an ethernet port and HDMI port?

I have a Pluggable USB 3.0 docking station that I use at the office. It works well, but it isn't USB-C so I have to use an adapter along with it. I believe they have a USB-C version, but I use my docking station for a Windows laptop that only has USB 3.0 on it also.

I have a USB-C Adapter that I carry around with me that offers USB 3.0, HDMI, and pass through USB-C on it. If you look around, you can probably find one that has ethernet in it also.

For ethernet use on the go, I have a USB to Ethernet adapter.

There are lots of options out there below $100. It really depends on what you are trying to accomplish with them.

Here ya go

/u/scratchfury was probably referring to the older Apple Thunderbolt-to-GigE adapter. Sounds like you've got a USB-C model machine. In that case, Anker has one with decent reviews.

>https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ethernet-Portable-1-Gigabit-Chromebook/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E/ref=cm\_cr\_arp\_d\_product\_top?ie=UTF8

I didn't think I needed any other adapter other than this. Just wanted to make sure it would work. Just to make sure I've got you right, you're saying all I need is this adapter and the driver you provided and I should be good to go?

​

Thanks for the reply (:

Yes but the Ethernet connection from the computer to the AP. What is that speed 1 gig? If it’s 10/100 your bandwidth restricted

You’d want an Ethernet adapter like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E

And you AP needs a gigabit Ethernet port

Would using a USB C to Ethernet adapter work to connect to LAN while in handheld mode?

Something like this:
https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-Ethernet-Including-ChromeBook-Aluminum/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E

Here is a basic one on Amazon, looks like no driver needed:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-Type-C-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B01M4J1H1U

A lot on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=usb+c+to+ethernet&s=review-rank&pd_rd_r=d6dee4aa-b3ba-421d-8c05-5c0997c845ac&pd_rd_w=0wMAI&pd_rd_wg=ZWnvm&pf_rd_p=7be70e42-b5c0-4077-873a-35a472a6fbd4&pf_rd_r=A8D9RDB0W94KWDC28RC2&qid=1569954847&ref=sr_st_review-rank

I have had good luck with Anker:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ethernet-Portable-1-Gigabit-Chromebook/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+c+to+ethernet+anker&qid=1569954896&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I bought this for my laptop but turns out it works with my phone too but I have to turn WiFi off in order for it to be recognized

> The issue is that I only have one data port in my living room and it has to connect an Xbox, PlayStation, raspberry pi and smart Tv and I do not want to use a WiFi connection for each.

I got to thinking and there might be a way for you to get all this to work and to bypass the needing too hard wire the ethernet in for the DVR into the network.

So if you don't want to run another home run ethernet line just for the DVR I got to thinking and I remembered ethernet wifi adapters use to be a thing back in the day. You could turn on wifi on the ATT router then use something such as this
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Ethernet-2-WiFi-Universal-Wireless-GWU637/dp/B018YPWORE
Or pick up an Apple Airport Express (if you want 5Ghz connectivity) and then use wifi to put your DVR to that network. In theory that should get it back on the ATT network, you can put out your unifi switch in the living room and hook everything to it. Then put all the ATT boxes either wirelessly to the same ATT network or use coax.

That should fix everything as long as that ethernet adapter works as it should. Or you might be able to use a cheap power line connector as well.

Rough idea I have is to use a WiFi to Ethernet adaptor to feed into my own router and have my devices connect to my own router, since I cannot normally cascade the routers without an Ethernet connection. Using something like the IOGEAR Ethernet-2-WiFi Universal Wireless Adapter, GWU637 ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018YPWORE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sp6ZAbAT856DJ ).

I think that would work, but not 100% certain as I have not used one before.

A client bridge or something like this: IOGEAR Ethernet-2-WiFi Universal Wireless Adapter, GWU637 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018YPWORE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_q.20Ab6KTZP7M

Best option would be to run hardwired connection

You could try using a CAT5 to WIFI adapter (assuming that adapter supported the network's security methods).

Something like this might work - https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Ethernet-2-WiFi-Universal-Wireless-GWU637/dp/B018YPWORE/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ethernet+to+wifi&qid=1569328089&s=electronics&sr=1-3

So the printer has ethernet but you don't have a drop for it?

​

You want something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018YPWORE/

Agreed. Something like this would probably work. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01929V7ZG/ref=psdc_1194444_t1_B009WG6K66

Powerline networking might be an option. It uses the powerlines in your house to extend your network so you don't have wires running every which way. Here's an example of one of those products: Link

Here's one that also serves as a wifi extender if you need a better signal in a certain area: Link

You're dealing with unreliable wifi not only connecting to your extender, but also having your extender connect to your main router. I'd look into using a powerline adapter rather than a wifi range extender.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-802-11ac-Gigabit/dp/B01929V7ZG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1540394067&sr=8-5&keywords=Powerline+Network+Adapters

This not only keeps the wifi extender capability, but also provides an ethernet port, which is what you would want.

Here's a youtube video on how powerline adapters work.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ywQeJCa3jl8

Ditch the wifi repeater. That's no good for gaming. Replace it with power line network adapters. Here's one on the fancier side:

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-802-11ac-Gigabit/dp/B01929V7ZG

You plug in the base by the main cable modem/wifi router and attach it via Ethernet. Then you plug the other wireless hotspot in the needed area. You may have to try a few rooms if the signal is weak (houses have 2 phases of electricity, works best when the base and wifi extended are on the same phase). Lastly set the wifi repeater to have the same SSID and password, also make sure to select different and far apart channels. You can make the wifi worse if they are conflicting. For 2.4ghz use channel 3 on one and 11 on the other. For 5ghz use channel 40 or so for one and 130 for the other. Now computers will see many choices for wireless and connect to the strongest one.

In my old 1950's house (original wires) I get about 250 megabits over the powerline from one side of the house to the other (~75 feet)

Have you thought of using a powerline solution with ingegrated wifi? For best coverage install it in every room and configure small cell sizes (=reduced transmit power), so your devices will roam around in your house.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01929V7ZG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494167009&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=powerline+802.11ac&dpPl=1&dpID=41p08cCBcHL&ref=plSrch

You should consider of buying an 802.11ac compatible model for best throughput and to avoid the overfilled 2,4 GHz band.

Edit: of course you could use a wired connection over powerline aswell. I don't recommend to play games over wifi. You will have air congestion which leads to lag.

Look to amazon, 4 stars and up!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01929V7ZG

Seems to be good, there's cheaper options.

Get the newer intel 8265. It's $26 on Amazon link and free one day shipping (in my area anyways)

BIOS Version 1.0.9
Make sure you also downloaded the new BIOS that just released the other day
LINK (Assuming you have the 17R4 as your title says, but you wrote 17R3 in comments)

I cant find the 8265 either... but a ton of Intel wifi cards with all kinds of different names. I have no idea what the difference is.

For example this one is the best selling one on Amazon Germany https://www.amazon.de/WLAN-Mini-PCI-Express-INTEL-7260/dp/B00N7474CS/

and there are A LOT of different ones... this seems to be yours though https://www.amazon.de/Intel-8260-NGWMG-INTEL-Dual-Wireless-8260/dp/B0197W86IE

Amazon

Even if the warranty isn't over, there's nothing stopping you from swapping it.

The one my laptop uses is $19.99 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-8260-IEEE-802-11ac-Adapter/dp/B0197W86IE

I would say first try removing the Killer Internet Suite/whatever they call it and just leave the driver installed, not the additional software that they try to bundle with it.

If that doesn't solve it, the recommended replacement I've seen floating around this sub is the Intel 8260, or its newer brethren, the Intel 9260

Some general rules of thumb (you'll probably already know):

• LAN > WiFi > Powerline
  
• 2.4 ghz > 5 ghz, if big obstacles like walls are in the way, doesn't really matter if it's the same room
  
  Usually i would suggest following combo as it is Miracast compatible:
  https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B016RU3T6S/ &
  https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0197W86IE/
  
  But as this would be the double of your price tag, i'd advise this one: https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Archer-T4U-Wireless-One-Button/dp/B00JBJ6VG8
  
  It does a pretty good job at some clients of mine.
  
  Please try to avoid Powerline Adapters, as they could do more "harm" then good.
  
  Common Promblems:
  
  
• They create a lot of noise in different frequencies, as they use between 2 and 68 Mhz for datatransmissions. Powercables are not shielded and that way you have a huge, radio jamming antenna.
  
• In some countries your Powerline Solution can be shut down by authorities if it disrupts your neighbours radio and you have to pay for the whole fieldop find your noise creating device.
  
• They have to be in the same powercircuit to function properly
  
• Turning on any device in that circuit could crash the powerlan connections (took us weeks to find out that the vacuum cleaner was crashing a clients printer connection)
  
• Speed is not really as "promised" or "advertised"
  

Intel Network 8260NGW 3rd Generation 802.11ac, dual band, 2x2 Wi-Fi + Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0197W86IE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0VotybGGZ71ST

On your decision to avoid the Kraken X62 because of its software, it's not a bad way to go. The software is super intuitive and the lighting effects look awesome, if you can get it to detect your AIO, that is. I would say CAM detects my X62 every 1 in 3 fresh boots, and the other 2 times it just doesn't acknowledge my cooler and I can't change the lighting or fan curves. I don't know know how good Corsair Link is, otherwise I could recommend you to check out the H100i/H115i since it has similar lighting features.

With regards to the motherboard, if built-in wifi is a necessity, you can do what I did and get the cheaper Hero board and just add your own wifi card. The Hero actually has an empty slot beneath the I/O shroud for an M.2 wifi/bluetooth card. This is the card I got, you'll also need antennas that connect to the card via tiny snap-on clips. The Hero's I/O shield has holes for the antenna that you have to punch out, and then you install the shield like normal and just screw on the antennas afterwards. Apparently the built-in wifi for the Code/Formula isn't too great, so this might be your best option.

Lastly, the Hero doesn't have too many internal USB headers, so if you go with that board then you'll need an internal USB hub which adds more slots. The convenient thing about this newer version is that the base is magnetic, so you can stick it wherever you want for ideal cable management.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VKQzbX

First of all, the 3600 (and pretty much all of the Zen2 cpu lineup) isn't a very overclockable chip, as it's already pushed pretty hard out of the box. Because of this, an upgraded cooler is rather unhelpful in overall performance. The motherboard was also a bit overkill, so I switched it to a good quality B450 board, which should be plenty for the 3600. It doesn't have WiFi capabilities built in, but you can get a cheap WiFi adaptor from Amazon (like this one https://www.amazon.com/EDUP-ac600Mbps-Wireless-External-10-6-10-13/dp/B01CCMUN8C/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3GXD2I0GBLHR0&keywords=computer+wifi+adapter&qid=1564539704&s=gateway&sprefix=computer+wifi%2Caps%2C142&sr=8-3) for cheaper than an upgrade to a board with WiFi. I also changed the RAM to a cheaper, higher frequency (3200mhz) kit. The gpu was changed to a 5700 XT, as it's much cheaper then a 2070 Super and competes and often surpasses it in performance (see https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-RTX-2070-Super-vs-AMD-RX-5700-XT/4048vs4045) , though you may want to wait a few weeks until non-blower cards come out. If you want to get closer to the $1300 USD limit, you could always go with something like this: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/fpbCmG/evga-geforce-rtx-2080-super-8-gb-black-gaming-video-card-08g-p4-3081-kr

Edit: Turns out a lot of people are having a lot of issues with the Tomahawk, so I'd recommend changing it to this: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Pq97YJ/asrock-fatal1ty-b450-gaming-k4-atx-am4-motherboard-b450-gaming-k4

One of the reviews for this one says that Windows 10 will handle it without needing anything else. Can't vouch for the truth of that myself.

​

https://www.amazon.com/EDUP-ac600Mbps-Wireless-External-10-6-10-13/dp/B01CCMUN8C?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

https://www.amazon.com/EDUP-ac600Mbps-Wireless-External-10-6-10-13/dp/B01CCMUN8C/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=edup+wifi&qid=1555794473&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I've also tried this, same results.

https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-Nighthawk-AC1900-Adapter-A7000-10000S/dp/B073JHHNJ9/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=edup+wifi&qid=1555794485&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Might be easier use PoE (Power over Ethernet). Even possibly convert a non PoE printer to one with a PoE splitter.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-POE10R-Gigabit-Splitter-compliant/dp/B003CFATQK/ref=sr_1_3

No link, but you can use a splitter for incompatible devices.

Edit: though why not link to that? Ie. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Splitter-TL-PoE10R/dp/B003CFATQK .

If the show has a barrel plug that is 5v, 9v, or 12v this tplink adaper is great. I have been using them for a while with great results. www.amazon.com/dp/B003CFATQK

Here ya go: TP-Link Gigabit Ethernet PoE Splitter Adapter (TL-PoE10R) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CFATQK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TGwQCbFW1QNSE

Yes. I prefer the USB option myself, because you can place the antenna independently of the computer, rather than being stuck with whatever signal you happen to get between your tower, desk, and wall.

I've got a few of these that I use for penetration testing of wireless networks. They're pretty beastly - you might want an AC variant, if your router supports 802.11AC

The biggest hurdle is that you will need a wireless card capable of injecting packets.

This is one of the more popular cards: http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-Wireless-Long-Range-Screw-On/dp/B003YIFHJY/

The one built into your computer might be capable, so check that first.

Tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RydsjNhUjdg

I like the Alfa AWUS036NH. It uses the RT2800U chipset and works nicely under both FreeBSD and Linux.

http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-802-11g-Wireless-Long-Range/dp/B003YIFHJY/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_2_2

Glad i could help btw for wifi hacking you'll need a wireless adapter that can inject packets... I recommend getting this http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-802-11g-Wireless-Long-Range/dp/B003YIFHJY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1413582408&sr=1-1&keywords=alfa or this if you want a longer range http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS051NH-Wireless-magnetic-Flex/dp/B003YHCRQQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1413582481&sr=1-4&keywords=alfa

Correct, a more sensitive receiver will pick up those fainter signals from further away. The issue is that the higher dBi gain an antenna is rated for, the higher directionality it is. The problem with getting too directional is that the cone of signal it is looking at could move around too much while on a boat. Tide, boat wake, people shifting on boat, etc, could all move the cone away from the area the access point is. You could try the parabolic reflector antennas, but you would select a dBi gain based on what the current antenna is. For example, if the antenna in your device is 2dBi (pretty common), look for a 9dBi directional antenna.

Alfa networks make powerful usb wifi adapters that include decent omnidirecitonal antennas, and this one here even has a good directional antenna included as well.

These are pretty crazy. Assuming that the wifi is sent by a decently powerful access point, and there is a pretty clear line of sight you can hit wifi at some crazy ranges. Now, the connection is going to be spotty and the the speed will be abysmal. Leeching wifi at 2km with a giant yagi would be a pretty sad life. I never said that it was a good idea, just that it can be done. Oh I forgot to mention, unless you have a license, it would be very illegal to use a yagi on a 2w transmitter since it would give unholy EIRP.

Think about it, our control systems are 2.4ghz and with directional antennas people can get like 5km. The taranis only has a transmit power of like 100mW which is comparable to many access points. All the things that our fancy dancy RC protocols do, was first implemented in wifi. We are basically flying drones with wifi.

I travel a bit for work, seldom overnighters that I'm staying away from home. For other reasons, I picked up a USB long-range network adapter and its done wonders for firming up weak signals and getting signals I otherwise wouldn't have gotten.

http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-Wireless-Long-Range-Screw-On/dp/B003YIFHJY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1382712089&sr=8-4&keywords=alfa

Get a directional wifi atenna like one of these and you will be able to connect to hotspots over a mile away:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YIFHJY/

These? Pretty sure it's magic

Either run a cable or use something like this. Powerline Ethernet will not be as good as running a cable. There are also "wifi repeaters" that you could set up to extend your wifi signal.

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter-TPL-401E2K/dp/B004D9V8C8

Plug one into the wall on the 3rd floor. Plug one into the wall on the 1st floor.

Works well with the device from this comment

If you have the inclination and want to do something a bit clever, you could use your old router as a wireless bridge. The basic idea would be to keep your new router as it is, set up the old router as an access point tied to the new one. Once it works, you can plug your Xbox into the old router and it will essentially function as a wireless card.

With my old modded Xbox, I just bought some powerline ethernet adapters to make it wired. Depending on the outlets in your house, you can get decent enough speeds.

Ethernet Powerline Adapters; something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter-TPL-401E2K/dp/B004D9V8C8

Flat Ethernet cable, or you could get a power over Ethernet kit, like this one.

http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter-TPL-401E2K/dp/B004D9V8C8

In case you aren't familiar with the product or concept, it's pretty much self-describing. It runs Ethernet through your electrical system.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power-line_communication

I know this wouldn't answer your direct question, but if you face any issues with concrete or studs, you can use the Powerline ethernet adapters.

Many companies make 'em -- I hate seeing cable running through my place. It was a perfect solution, and I just didn't want to try and run cable underneath my stairs, even if it is a very simple DIY.

397885 IOGEAR BT-4.0 USB MICRO ADAPTER 1 14.99 14.99
S/N:OU42USC2T04858

I bought mine from Micro Center.

Edit: Could buy from Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Bluetooth-Micro-Adapter-GBU521/dp/B007GFX0PY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407533745&sr=8-1&keywords=iogear+bluetooth

USB adaptors made by IOGEAR and GMYLE work OOB as far as you are using ordinary Bluetooth connection ( e.g. keyboard, mouse, trackpad and audio.) Unlike ones from osxwifi.com, additional work is required when you want to use Continuity functions with iOS.

• http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GFX0PY/
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007MKMJGO/

Bought this: IOGEAR Bluetooth 4.0 USB Micro Adapter (GBU521) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GFX0PY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_NiKsub048EE40

Works right out of the box

Unplug the wireless usb dongle that came with it, hard reboot OSX then plug the usb transmitter back in, preferably on a port closest to were the mouse is. check and see if the mouse behaves better when it's very close to the usb transceiver, if it works fine close then it's most likely interference. What I did is bought a usb extension cable and put the transceiver on the end of it and taped it under my desk right above the mouse.

If it's shit all around and works on other computers fine in the same room, then that points to the usb transceiver is not fully compatible with OSX. In that case, take 5$ and go purchase a new one that's guaranteed 100% solid on OSX.

If you search the r/hackintosh sub there should be many posts discussing which ones to get and which ones to avoid.

This is the one I use and it's generally praised in the community.
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Bluetooth-Micro-Adapter-GBU521/dp/B007GFX0PY/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

Double check with customer reviews that it's the correct model number that works with OSX, companies are known to switch the product up with a different cheaper chip after word gets out that they are using decent parts in them...


make sure your batteries are charged and no major source of interference, like a microwave, cordless phone or a powerbox is close by (even a powerbox on the other side of the wall will cause interference).

If the mouse is just dying from old age then pick up a corded mouse to avoid all this shite in the future.

Same here... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GFX0PY/

This would work and it’s BT4.0

I've used DS4 on my PC and Laptop. You just need a proper bluetooth adapter and that is it. FFXIV supports the DS4 controller without any additional software.

My laptop has bluetooth, but since it is 8 years old, bluetooth had issues. I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GFX0PY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And it works perfectly with the DS4 wirelessly on both my laptop and my PC.

You do not have to get the Sony dongle or use any software(but only if you are using the DS4 for FFXIV)

Swapping the card in a MBP should be straightforward, but the replacement card which will work will depend primarily on the year of your model, as the interface changed on newer models.

If you're trying to upgrade an older model, you might have to look for a 3rd party card which uses the same chipset as an official apple model but utilizes the correct interface (mini-pci-e)

Lookup an iFixit guide for your particular model - they should have clear info on how to replace the card.

As far as using an add-on dongle, I know that the GBU521 was a direct plugin-and-work model (at least the ones Amazon was shipping in 2013)

I don't own a Companion 2, so I can't say for sure, but I do own a companion 1 & wifi has always been super unreliable for me. I tried drivers for win 8, 8.1 & now 10 & it never wants to stay connected or connect at all. I finally broke down & bought a usb wifi adapter & it's been working perfectly ever since.

This is the one I bought back in 2015, they probably have nicer ones now:
https://amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Adapter-Raspberry-TL-WN823N/dp/B0088TKTY2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484011701&sr=8-3&keywords=wifi+usb+tp+link

TP-Link TL-WN823N N300 Mini USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0088TKTY2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

USB adapter is the only way, VirtualBox can't use your computer's built-in WiFi.

I recently bought this TP-Link USB adapter and so far it's been fine, it worked right away with VirtualBox.

Bit of a strange one. A cursory web search shows that it should work, but Broadcom cards can be finicky. So, if you're struggling, give this a go in the first instance:

Open up terminal and type:
>sudo apt install bcmwl-kernel-source

Hit Enter, type in your password, then hit Enter again. After that, restart your computer.

NOTE

If it is already installed (the output will tell you something along the lines of "package already installed") then do the following:

>sudo apt purge bcmwl-kernel-source

Restart computer, open terminal and do it again:

>sudo apt install bcmwl-kernel-source

/NOTE

If that doesn't work, you may find some help here, where someone has had a similar problem to you. In there, you may be able to find the correct package (driver) by following the links in that guide, or having a bit of an Internet search for them.

That being said, it seems to be a major problem with BT dongles across the board. Therefore, it might be ideal to get a dongle that is out of the box compatible. I have used TP-Link TL-WN823N in the past on Linux and it works flawlessly (it has also been supported in the kernel since October 2010). For the grand total of £6.99, it is a no brainer.

Best of luck!

My first search results for "Cable Matters" came up with

https://www.cablematters.com/pc-489-138-usb-20-to-10100-fast-ethernet-network-adapter.aspx

that explicitly states " This product is NOT compatible with the Nintento Switch." (Mispelling theirs.)

The 2nd adapter didn't say the same thing on their own site but did on their Amazon listing.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Ethernet-Adapter-Supporting-x/dp/B00BBD7NFU

Is it a different model?

It'd be interesting if it was just that particular build.

Visible in this picture by notebookcheck: http://www.notebookcheck.net/fileadmin/_processed_/csm_links_7ee57ece3f.jpg

Under "Connectivity"
http://www.notebookcheck.net/Lenovo-ThinkPad-X1-Carbon-2016-Core-i7-WQHD-Ultrabook-Review.162631.0.html

EDIT: Could always get a USB to RJ45 like this: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00BBD7NFU

This sounds like your Ethernet port on your motherboard is getting locked down to Fast Ethernet speeds for some reason.

If you're willing to throw $14 at it, grab one of these and see if that makes a difference.

In reality, you don't need most of it anymore. Serial port? Small USB-to-serial adapter, job done. Optical drive? Basically never need one, when you combine stuff like server iDRAC and IPMI with remote management, and OS installs can be done off USB sticks.

The one thing I do wish my Surface Pro had is an Ethernet port, but I've managed to work around that also (usb3 to gigabit adapter).

Battery life? Well, a HP Spectre X360 15 inch - what may well be the best laptop of 2016 in my book - will have all-day battery life, and 4 USB ports (one USB-C, 3 A), plus HDMI and DisplayPort.

Arguably, a 15 inch slim ultrabook like that and a serial port adapter and USB3 bluray will still be less to haul than some ugly old brick. And if you find yourself standing in a data center needing to operate it one handed, it flips into tablet mode with a touch screen.

https://www.amazon.com/VicTsing%C2%AE-playback-Blu-ray-External-desktops/dp/B014OSZF4Y

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Converter-Prolific-Chipset-TU-S9/dp/B0007T27H8

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00BBD7NFU - or better yet this, if you want more USB3 ports also: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B01J6583NK

But, in answer to your actual question, no, I'm not aware of an old school brick with tons of ports that's worth buying. A few accessories you can keep in the bag until you need them makes more sense anyway - in my opinion.

Well, unless you go to rugged or semi-rugged designs. They have to be so bulky anyway that they toss in a ton of ports.

http://en.getac.com/notebooks/S410/features.html perhaps or machines of that style.

Dell also makes semi-rugged. Panasonic Toughbook etc. But all these rugged models cost a premium. Then again, if you get stuck in a snowdrift, you can use them as shovels, so... :)

Or else, you can go all out! :) http://en.getac.com/notebooks/X500-Server/features.html

got to get those extra MB/s

If it's an under $1000 ASUS Ultrabook you're after, I'd go for the ASUS Vivobook V301LP. Light, high quality IPS display, dedicated graphics (albeit weak ones), and 8GB RAM. There is no ethernet port, but you can get a USB to RJ-45 Adapter

Right... just reporting back on my findings on this and also looking for some help.

I've not been able to watch 4K films on my TV up until this point.

FIrstly, I bought this adaptor:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BBD7NFU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I "forgot" my WiFi settings so the TV had no internet connection. Plex was showing "No Connection".

As soon as I plugged it in it started flashing and Plex started working again! So... result so far!!!

Then I tried to play a movie that had the following audio...

• Codec HEVC
  
• Bitrate 85343 kbps
  
• Bit Depth 10
  
• Chroma Subsampling 4:2:0
  
• Color Primaries bt2020
  
• Color Range tv
  
• Color Space bt2020nc
  
• Color Trc smpte2084
  
• Frame Rate 23.976 fps
  
• Height 2160
  
• Level 5.1
  
• Profile main 10
  
• Ref Frames 1
  
• Width 3840
  
• Display Title 4K (HEVC Main 10 HDR)
  
  The video was "direct play" but the audio (detailed above) transcoded and, unfortunately, it still buffers now and again?
  
  However, if I play another audio stream which is "direct play" then the film plays fine without buffering?
  
  Does anyone know what's causing it to buffer when I'm transcoding my audio??
  
  If I check the bandwidth, CPU and RAM whilst it's transcoding the audio, the bandwidth seems to spike around 260Mbps (the CPU and RAM seem very low and steady - around 20% for both). However, the bandwidth spikes don't seem to correlate with the buffering? It can go to 260Mbps and then drop to 150Mbps - then drop to around 100 and suddenly 'buffer'?
  
  Anyone know where to direct my attention next to fix it so that I can also transcode audio?
  
  (BTW X-play seems to be worse than Plex for some reason - unless there's settings in X-play I don't know about - I've only used it once before?)
  
  This is a massive leap forward as it is. Just being able to play 4K films is great. But it would be amazing if I could also play the proper audio?
  
  Thanks for your help :-)
  
  Note: TV is LG OLED65C7V

I have this one. Works perfect.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BBD7NFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

> Thanks for the reply! That is the install method I initially used to get the card running in the first place! The issue persists after following the instructions.

You know, I say this a lot but if you want a permanent fix pitch that Broadcom card and replace it with an Intel card. You can find Intel laptop wireless cards for about $25 - some manufacturers whitelist their WLAN cards in BIOS and they're a PITA to change but Dell isn't one of those companies. Bite the bullet, spend the $25 or so if you can and make the Broadcom problem go away :)

Here's an Intel 7260 for $22 -

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Dual-Band-Wireless-Ac-Hmc/dp/B00DMCVKMU

specs says it has a mini pcie so something like http://www.amazon.com/Intel-3160-Wireless-Bluetooth-Supports/dp/B00IOS19E6/ref=pd_sim_pc_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0A2RQXETPXGARWEHK2BK

or

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMCVKMU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A9RRFZDGAXG22

edited to one sold from amazon

or just a usb dongle if you don't wanna open it up.

I would start here, a friend upgraded an older model Dell laptop with this card with great success:

http://www.amazon.com/Intel-7260-HMWG-Wireless-AC-7260-Bluetooth/dp/B00DMCVKMU/

Intel AC 7260, just got it a few days ago, and it works fantastic. I recently upgraded from an Intel N 5300 which also worked. My RALink didn't work at all, but that's my bad for not having the technical proficiency to install it with a NetWrapper.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMCVKMU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You should look for Wifi adapter which at the very least explicitly lists "Linux" as compatible OS. There are enough of them out there, for example this one. If you want to be 100% sure just use UTP cable, it's the ultimate trouble-free solution.


Haven't heard about trouble with AMD cpu, but if you are looking to do gaming with that integrated Radeon HD 7540D, I've always heard gaming on Linux (at this moment) is a bit better/easier on nvidia. Though from what I can see that 7540D is not "great" for gaming anyway (529 passmark score), which is about the same as Intel HD4400.

http://www.amazon.com/Panda-300Mbps-Wireless-USB-Adapter/dp/B00EQT0YK2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453947185&sr=8-3&keywords=wireless+usb+network+adapter

I got my father this one when his broke, it works for him at least.

[usb wifi adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EQT0YK2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1413982857&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40)

pcie wifi adapter

Like one of these

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA6010KIT/dp/B00IBPLI48

I used this for a long time: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA6010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00IBPLI48/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1463523266&sr=1-1&keywords=tp+link+600

They are truly magic: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00IBPLI48/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1474256565&sr=1-1&keywords=powerline

Add another wifi access point to your powerline adapter in the bedroom. Full speed across your power system.

If a direct ethernet connection isn't possible, get a powerline adapter. For a desktop PC, WiFi is the last thing you use when there's no other choice.

About your USB WiFi adapter and WiFi router, there are only a few reasons for them to suddenly slow down: broken router, broken adapter, new high interference, too many users on the same WiFi.

Solutions:

• change the WiFi password in case someone unauthorized is using your WiFi,
  
• use a smartphone app to check the WiFi networks around you and select channel 1, 6, or 11 accordingly
  
• replace the router
  
• replace the adapter
  
  

I have used these in the past and they have worked extremely well. TP-Link's gigabit powerline adapters.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IBPLI48/ref=twister_B00RGP7N70?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I'm on mobile right now, but googling "smallnetbuilder" powerline or something like that should turn something up. I bought this one based on their review https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IBPLI48/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's exactly what I'm talking about. I bought some TP-Link ones 3 years ago and they've been great in 3 houses. I've used them to run internet to different levels or corners of the house and they've been great. Here's a link to the newer version of the ones I bought on [Amazon for <$50] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IBPLI48). . .

I was in a similar situation where I had significant packet loss and went the powerline adapter route. I purchased this TP-Link and it solved all my problems. Just keep in mind it is not as fast as a Cat6 cable.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IBPLI48?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Well "Everyone" doesn't think you need the fanciest possible routers and modems!
Many are using this modem and this WiFi-router or for a little more this one

Another option is this Asus RT-AC56U, another very good WiFi. These are refurbished, but still have a 2 year warranty. (I just now bought one!)

Any of the WiFi routers will work very well for you (pick one). The modem and one of the WIFi routers above will give you the most bang for buck and should work well for several years.

I suspect that your router is part of your problem. The WNR3500Lv2 isn't powerful enough for the fast internet of today. I'd suggest plugging directly into your ISP modem/router and see what sort of speeds you get. I'm guessing it'll be better.

If it is better plugged in direct to the ISP device then its definitely your router that is the bottleneck. I'd suggest an upgrade to something like the TP-Link Archer C5, TP-Link Archer C7 or Netgear R6300v2. All should be a big upgrade over the WNR3500Lv2 for a minimal investment.

I pay $59.99 for http://imgur.com/ubNp9bg
I pay for the modem rental, I never have throttle issues I have a 300GB Data Cap but it doesn't count for the first three months so you can use unlimited.

As of next month ill pay $30 more for unlimited data.

I would opt to not rent the modem if you have your own or plan on getting one.

If you need a suggestion this one
http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6141-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B00AJHDZSI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458157585&sr=1-1&keywords=Modem

Paird with

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZFG6QS?psc=1

I don't pay for cable TV nor plan on it now that Playstation Vue is in my area and cost way last for exactly what I want and need.

Three options.

the first/PCIe one is the cleanest as the device will live in the computer and make the desktop act like a laptop in respect to how wireless networks function.

• wireless ac via PCIe
  
• wireless ac via PCIe
  
  The second/USB one is pretty much the same but will have less performance due to antenna diversity and the USB interface.
  
  
• Wireless ac via USB
  
• Wireless ac via USB
  
  
  The third/router is probably the most ideal as it will allow the computer to continue using the onboard ethernet, and give you additional ports to plug other things into. It does have the complexity of having to switch the router into bridge/client mode, but that isn't very hard.
  
  
• Router in bridge mode
  
  As of now the OnHub/GF equipment doesn't interop directly. They are separate business units, and operate independently. It's possible they will integrate in the future but as of now they are on distinct paths from each other.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-C5-Wireless-Gigabit/dp/B00JZFG6QS

This guy works well, I have 150Mbps down and 10-15 devices connect to it. Also supports my Chromecast just fine. It sits upstairs in a 2BR condo and reaches every corner of the unit.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-C5-Wireless-Gigabit/dp/B00JZFG6QS

To be honest I had a hard time finding the perfect wireless adapter. No amount of specs would show the real world usuage of an adapter. I went through three before getting this one.

Netgear AC1200 Wi-Fi Adapter High Gain Dual Band USB 3.0 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00MRVJY1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bRWJAbGXH4XCA

It supports 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz. Has good range and data throughput. I would recommend it as the price has even gone down since I purchased it(I payed $95 after taxes, no shipping costs).

Never had an issue with it, never had to unplug and plug it back in. Great latency as all i ever did was play games using it. It even comes with a little dock and cable so you can place it on your desk if you like.

I would also encourage you to use an application like this:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.assia.sweetspots

You see when using a wireless adapter the data transfer rate can change with every inch you move your wifi adapter. This was a very critical thing for me to learn as I could get 120Mbps in one place but only 40Mbps two inches to the right.

So I used this app to find the perfect sweet spot and taped the dock in place. So I could always have the best possible wifi.

That looks like it could be a viable solution. I will have a PoE switch, so I could get by with only the splitter. My biggest question now is whether the splitter will fit through the hole required to install the Multisensor. I plan to run the wires when building, but may not install all the sensors straight away.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CFATQK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_3oeFybBS95X7F?th=1

I wish I could find this in a 48v to 5v version (for standard POE to RPi). I've been looking but haven't found one yet. Right now I'm using this. Holy smokes, the price on these splitters dropped by almost half -- I'm betting because of RPi users buying them. Ok, nevermind, I guess I'll just stick with the TP-Link splitters since the price dropped so much.

If you use these splitters though, the only way I've found to get them to work is to take the barrel connector cable they come with and cut it in half and join it (splice the wires together, solder and cover with a shrink tubing -- put the tubes on the wires before connecting the wires, doh!) with a snipped micro-usb cable that connects to the Pi power. Keep the cable length down to about 8-12 inches.

Personally I use a couple of these https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Splitter-TL-PoE10R/dp/B003CFATQK/ref=sxin_1_ac_m_pm?ac_md=1-0-VW5kZXIgJDUw-ac_d_pm&keywords=Tplink+poe&pd_rd_i=B003CFATQK&pd_rd_r=f6e89ffd-cc81-4d01-984a-b4bfe184b0fb&pd_rd_w=6FIm3&pd_rd_wg=Bubxo&pf_rd_p=7ffdbddd-e073-4cb0-834c-3e54bd44941a&pf_rd_r=0R42F6S8G05TJHX7FRER&psc=1&qid=1567022590&s=gateway

They're voltage adjustable between 12, 9, and 5v

Ethernet cables use thin wires which cause significant voltage drops over typical distances. For this reason, the designers of 802.3af Power over Ethernet chose 48V: higher input voltage results in more power getting to the device. Ubiquiti, Mikrotik, and others have their own nonstandard POE schemes but have generally agreed to send 15-24V – higher for longer runs, lower for very short runs. (Well, except for the Ubiquiti devices that require 48V because 24V just can't deliver the power required…)

Rather than hacking something together yourself at 5V, I would suggest this TP-Link kit. It includes a standard 802.3af injector and an 802.3af splitter, which can output 5V, 9V, or 12V onto a common DC barrel connector. You'll get gigabit Ethernet through it, it'll work over long distances (due to the higher transmission voltage), and it's standard POE.

I think this is a great deal at $20.

POE for SmartThings:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CFATQK splitter
plus
https://www.amazon.com/JacobsParts-Barrel-Micro-USB-Connector-Adapter/dp/B019CXCHNS for DC jack to micro USB

Could I use a deice like this to power a small POE switch?

​

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Splitter-TL-PoE10R/dp/B003CFATQK/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540385583&sr=1-4&keywords=hp+intellijack

Id go with something like this

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Splitter-TL-PoE10R/dp/B003CFATQK

if your that worried

has ce and fcc markings so it should be pretty safe

While that is mostly true, POE splitters do exist (and are relatively cheap). Just remember that POE is designed to power relatively small devices that don't draw very much power.

You could use something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-POE10R-Gigabit-Splitter-compliant/dp/B003CFATQK

Just hack a micro USB connector onto the power output and you can power your Pi safely from any 802.3af switch.

I recently dealt with Unifi G3 cameras and a 802.3af-only switch. My solution was to buy a load of passive POE injectors and these TP-Link POE splitters, saved 50% of the cost of buying Ubiquiti Instant-POE adapters.

I did exactly that with one of these TP-Link Gigabit Ethernet PoE Splitter Adapter (TL-PoE10R) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CFATQK

There is a box at the other end that splits it out into a regular power connector, pretty handy!

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Splitter-TL-PoE10R/dp/B003CFATQK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526833321&sr=8-1&keywords=tp+link+poe+splitter

It lets you select the voltage

home/proto you can chuck it on the plastic (aluminium will short it out) but for deployment definitely screw it down. if the box risers don't line up, you can mount pi to perspex first then screw or glue that to the box. wood is ok for proto but beware the fire risk..

a lot more drilling and screwing than the kits but that's half the fun ;p (and final product can be almost military grade with enough care)

these are also good'n'cheap poe if space not an issue

I set up something similar in my sister's house a few years back. As far as I know, it's still going strong. Injector at one end, a splitter at the other plugged into a switch (just make sure the power ratings are within specs).

I don't think the GS108T that /u/adamgerken mentioned existed at the time (or was too expensive).

I believe this is the splitter we used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CFATQK/

It supports 12V @ 1A, so should work with most 5 and 8 port switches these days.

Side note: I also use an 802.3at (PoE+) splitter to power my ONT, because I needed more than the 12v/1A the splitter above could supply. For this, I used a "PLANET NETWORKS POE-162S IEEE 802.3at Gigabit High Power over Ethernet Splitter" I picked up off of eBay.

Like /u/heeero said. I've used POE switches like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BSR4PU/
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CFATT2/

That sends power over the ethernet (POE) to your camera. Your camera needs to have POE on board, or you can use this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CFATQK/

That "splits" the ethernet from power, and you can use that to connect a non-POE camera to a POE switch. Very nice, small (like pack of cigarettes).

There's also this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZA0FU0/

That's non-standard POE, uses 20v instead of 40v. Can't use it with POE cameras or switches, basically a standalone thing. Very nice if you only have one non POE camera you want to hook up.

POE is really nice. The reliability of hardwire, the convenience of a single ethernet cord.

Is this device compatible? I know there is a lot of documentation on it regarding Kali.
https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-802-11g-Wireless-Long-Range/dp/B003YIFHJY

SD card and shipping & handling not included.

Hardware

pi zero - $5.00

pins - $8.95

[wifi adapter](https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG?ie=UTF8&ref_=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top) - $13.33

right angle USB ports - $5.64

USB battery - $3.99

micro-mini usb cable - $2.89

Total: $39.80

*I used an Alfa AWUSO36NH but the TP-LINK TL-WN722N should work. More information on compatible network adapters here.

The optional Illuminated LED shutdown switch makes this device easier to use but costs an additional $16.99 Alternately, you can ssh into the piratebox with a mobile device to shut it down.


Disk image

Here's a .img file for your convenience. Just install the image to an SD card (at least 4 gb) and run it in a Pi Zero to get started. Note: auto broadcast on FM isn't enabled by default so you'll need to add a cronjob as detailed in the guide if you want to activate this feature.

About

PirateBox software runs on inexpensive hardware to connect users over an offline wifi network. Join it and your browser redirects to a simple interface where you can share files, chat, and stream video.

Pifm is a small program you can install in a Raspberry Pi PirateBox, aka “pi(rate)box.” It can broadcast on FM radio to inform potential users about the PirateBox wifi network, play uploaded music, and with a USB microphone Pifm lets you talk live to your audience.

Improvements

The first version of this project was well received so I'm back to share design and documentation improvements. Pi(rate)FM Zero is now fully self contained. It turns on and off with a button press and can automatically broadcast information about the wifi network over empty FM stations at user defined intervals.

Controversy

The FM signal may be messy but it's also short range. The Pifm developers claim it can broadcast up to 100 meters. In my experience (with a 20cm antenna) it goes no further than 40 meters.

To my understanding this device is legal in the US under 47 CFR (Code of Federal Regulations) Section 15.239 and the [July 24, 1991 Public Notice (still in effect)](https://apps.fcc.gov/edocs_public/attachmatch/DOC-297510A1.pdf]. From the FCC's website:

>Unlicensed operation on the AM and FM radio broadcast bands is permitted for some extremely low powered devices covered under Part 15 of the FCC's rules. On FM frequencies, these devices are limited to an effective service range of approximately 200 feet (61 meters).

I experimented with a 100 MHz low-pass filter but the FM signal leaks through the network adapter. I'll continue to look into it. Pifm may cause interference but there shouldn't be any trouble if you keep it away from airports and don't attach massive antennas to it.

Why not use a car/smartphone FM trasmitter?

You totally could. It might even be better in some situations if you don't mind a slightly larger, more expensive device with an extra battery to charge. Keep in mind you'd lose the ability to live broadcast with a microphone or play audio directly from the PirateBox.

Going forward**

In my next version I'd like to improve the PirateBox interface and make a way for users to rate playlists while having Pifm automatically play the highest ranked tracks. Users could upload music and vote on which tracks gets played. It'd be your own personal short range interactive digital-analog radio station hosted on a private intranet.

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-802-11g-Wireless-Long-Range/dp/B003YIFHJY

Fuck da police

Radio is weird.
(tldr at end)
The overall power matters, but the concentration of that power matters. For example, if you're just talking normally, your voice can be heard decently near to you. But if you talk through a cone, your voice can be heard better, farther, but only in a limited area.

Directional antennas are the same way. They don't change the overall power being sent, but they change the concentration of it, making where they point effectively more powerful see: EIRP

So, yes, you may have a real problem wherein a directional antenna could get data to your laptop, but your laptop may not be able to get that data back to your antenna. One can focus its power, your laptop likely can't (Some newer standards and chipsets support beamforming, which is similar, but i'm discounting that).

Your distance is far, but it's possible. There are special setups for Wireless Internet Service Providers (WISP) that take distance into account, but easiest thing for you is probably to :

tldr: use a directional antenna like what you linked for your wireless access point, and something like this on your laptop http://smile.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-802-11g-Wireless-Long-Range/dp/B003YIFHJY?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage . Point them at each other, and you might have a strong enough signal, though the distance is still at the edge of what will work without more special solutions.

I would recommend the Alfa AWUS036NH. Does b/g/n and does it well. packet injection and all. I'm pretty sure it's industry recommended by now.

If you have a couple devices you want to hook up, I'd recommend the Nanostation M2 Loco and a cheap wireless router:

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-LOCOM2-US-NanoStation-loco-M2/dp/B004EGI3CI

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WR720N-Wireless-150Mbps-Internal/dp/B008IFXQIW

The nanostation gets set to Wireless Station/SOHO Router mode so your traffic appears to come from a single device, then the router is plugged into the nanostation to provide wireless and a pair of ethernet ports to plug your devices into.

If you just need the laptop to work, I'd suggest this alfa USB device:

http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-802-11g-Wireless-Long-Range/dp/B003YIFHJY

I'd grab the active USB extension if it needs to be placed away from your laptop somewhere. This would be the easiest to get setup by far.

Of course amazon has it: https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00V5KSIZS/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1487490494&sr=1-1&keywords=AWUS052NH


Although i would personally recommend the AWUS036NH: https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-802-11g-Wireless-Long-Range/dp/B003YIFHJY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1487490317&sr=1-1&keywords=Alfa+AWUS036NH

Do you have line of site? You could do directed wifi with a high gain antenna. That paired with some Alfa wifi adapters should get you 500m with line of sight.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YIFHJY/ref=psdc_13983791_t2_B0035BGNWU

Ive had a https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-802-11g-Wireless-Long-Range/dp/B003YIFHJY/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1541182556&sr=1-9&keywords=alfa+wifi+usb similar one a few years ago and it works amazing. Other similar ones can be had for 15-20$ and should be fine.

I read this entire post and I've found a few suggestions that might work.

• Switching the WiFi antennas on the router (if possible). Now this wont help during the night, but it should help during the day.
  
  
• if above is noticeable (Crazy owners and their cancer brain) or impossible (not removable antennas).. have you considered a USB wireless adapter? i have this one and i can get WiFi from like a half mile away at decent speeds. Also with this method its possible to steal (SHHHH DONT TELL) your neighbors WiFi. While this is illegal and I'm not advising you do it, it is a possible solution.
  
  
• I don't know how tech savy you are. But if you can get into the router, You could set up a hidden ssid just for your use.
  
  
• I don't know how rich you are either or what area you live in. But 3g or 4g mobile hotspots are becoming really cheap. you could use option 2 during the day and get all major downloading done and major internet consumption in, and then at night use this option.

Alfa 2000mw High gain WiFi Adapter - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YIFHJY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xfENub1YJ5Q1V

Comes with everything shown and was only used a couple times. $25

Just ordered this, thanks again for imparting your knowledge on me

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YIFHJY/

I tend to trust Alfa for external WiFi cards.

Speed: http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00MX57AO4
Range: http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-Wireless-Long-Range-Screw-On/dp/B003YIFHJY
Cheap: http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUSO36NH-Wireless-Long-Rang-Network/dp/B0035APGP6

lol I was joking, but come to think of it, if it's PCI-e module and not USB module, I might buy it. Do you know what model it is? Currently, I have one of these - https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-802-11g-Wireless-Long-Range/dp/B003YIFHJY

Couple of options:

• To mooch wifi from free hotspots / friends, you can do that with a regular laptop / phone. To boost your range, you'll most likely want a wifi booster of some kind. Traditional wifi boosters would look like: Big wifi antenna -> black box -> smaller wifi antenna inside the van -> your laptop/phone
  
• A cheaper version of a booster is to "make" one. Get a Yagi wifi antenna + a wifi adapter then connect the adapter to your laptop via USB. It's a bit more involved to do this for your phone. Just remember you have to point the antenna to the wifi source to get the best signal
  
• Get a 3G/4G/Mifi box which will connect to a cellular network and output a wifi hotspot you can connect to. If the signal is sparse, you can try getting a 3G Yagi antenna and plugging it into the 3g box though I'm less sure about that and am currently looking into it myself since those boxes typically have two antennas (one for receiving and one for transmitting I believe)
  
• Tether your phone to your laptop and get 3G/4G internet that way

I'm pretty new to using AirCrack myself, but I've bought this a few weeks ago and it works on Kali.

This is what I have.

Hi, the company i work for used to provide the authentication server for ARMP and Warrior networks, so hi from the past, but its been migrated to another service due to budgetary constraints I would suggest this:
A: Compalin compalin complain until they boost the signal or move an AP closer to your barracks
B: Get a high power transmitter USB wifi adapter I use this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YIFHJY/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Its a high power USB dongle (No compant relationship me, just what I use when traveling) comes with a directional and a 2000MX transmit power. I can connect to AP's about 1/2 mile away with 3 bars if pointed correctly. Remember NEVER boot this up without an antenna, it will go into a feedback loop and destroy the transmitter in the USB card. Good Luck.

I had never heard of powerline adapters before but would recommend it instead of a wireless signal. I bought this one and it was extremely easy to set up and was way more consistent than a wifi signal.

Actually, yes you can with special adapters. I use a similar model and they work well. http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter-TPL-401E2K/dp/B004D9V8C8

Here is ONE of MANY options for this-- http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter-TPL-401E2K/dp/B004D9V8C8

That should help you get started looking through the options to see what one might work best for you. I do not endorse any specific one. I suggest considering the price and reading the reviews.

Question 1 : Is it legal for me to string network cable over to location B so that I can avoid the hassle of trying to set up two networks?

Yes, just avoid punching through any firewalls, and make sure the owner of the building is OK with it.

Question 2 : If the above is illegal, what sort of solution would work best such that we're still able to operate like a local network over the Internet?

Any number of different ways. You could run Ethernet over Powerlines/outlets, such as http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter-TPL-401E2K/dp/B004D9V8C8. You could create a VPN to bridge the two networks together, etc.

Switch to a LAN. Get a better router. It's probably pioritizing other network traffic and lets your packets get dropped. Could try one of these which my brother switched to and now we're not fighting for bandwith.

You could get this instead if you do not need the wireless. Or you can plug a wireless AP into it.

http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter-TPL-401E2K/dp/B004D9V8C8

Ethernet over powerline like this: http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter-TPL-401E2K/dp/B004D9V8C8

In my experience they kinda suck to be honest. I'd prefer a MoCA setup like this: http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1419044553&sr=1-1&keywords=moca&pebp=1419044548886 which is over coaxial cable.

You have two options. A wifi extender, or Ethernet over power line adapter.

http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter-TPL-401E2K/dp/B004D9V8C8

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-N300-Wi-Fi-Range-Extender/dp/B004YAYM06

Sounds like the Motorola is not doing anything and can be unplugged.

Get a R9 380 instead of a GTX 960.

I'd recommend getting a 1TB along withe SSD.


Get this instead of a Wireless network adapter. It's really cool how they work and you should look a little bit more into them and find a cheaper one if that one is too much.

edit: 4 edits and I got the formatting right. whew.

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter-TPL-401E2K/dp/B004D9V8C8

Ethernet speeds, wireless accessibility.

Then yeah, that would be good. You may want to look at powerline ethernet instead. Hardwired connection without running wires.

you should first check out the app for android (and I think IOS too) Wifi analyzer. the app may see complex but its not to hard to use. Once its on you should see your wifi network, Walk around your house and see where the signal drops. That signal is measured in decibels you will see something like -30Dbm (perfect signal is around -35Dbm)

Ill bet you are correct as streaming really does need higher bandwidth levels. Honestly I would recommend [This] (https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter-TPL-401E2K/dp/B004D9V8C8)

the simple thing is that wifi still blows...sad but true. You can use your power lines in your house to send signal with that. Ethernet cable from your router/modem downstairs to that power adapter thing, and up stairs another power adapter thing with an Ethernet cable to your TV.

I live with my parents (17) and while I would love to run a really long Ethernet cable to my bedroom I have no idea how to work out the logistics of running it through the walls.



For now, wifi is the best solution.



I did try one of those Ethernet extender things that runs through your walls for a while. The speed was absolute ass and I have no idea why you wouldn't just use wifi.



(For those who don't know what I'm talking about, it was one of these things: http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter-TPL-401E2K/dp/B004D9V8C8)

Ok man, if you are trying to just play league, your graphics card is fine.

Wifi card - can you get Ethernet cable to your computer? If so, go with wired connection or get something like a powerline ethernet: http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter-TPL-401E2K/sim/B004D9V8C8/2

A couple of my friends are really into league and you need as low ping as possible for such games. Try to go for wired connection.

For low latency, I would suggest getting wired mouse as well.

You DO NOT need a sound card. Trust me.

You don't need to buy case fans either. The default config should be good enough.

Here is the mobile version of your link

I would highly recommend getting a Ethernet powerline adapter. For example like this http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter-TPL-401E2K/sim/B004D9V8C8/2.

If you need wifi what you can take a wireless router or access point (Ubiquiti has great stuff) and put it in bridge mode. Easiest way to do this honestly.

If you want a wired connection just plug in directly. If you need more than one wired connection you can take a wireless router and use it like a switch by plugging all devices in the LAN ports (do not use the WAN port). Alternatively, you can buy a switch.

Ah, thanks so much! I actually went ahead and emailed them and they linked me the one (and only officially supported) dongle that I should use.

For WiFi it really depends on what you get.

Personally I have this adaptor because it's cheap, small and works fine. I had to hunt for the OS X driver though, but I saved it to my dropbox here.

For bluetooth it's simpler. This worked right out of the box.

You can grab the PS3 Navigation controller from Amazon for $17.50. (There's also a knock-off version for $7, but I've heard rumors of unofficial controllers having trouble with SCP-DS3.)

Using a PS3 controller with the PC is a bit tricky -- some games recognize it, no problem, others don't, or only recognize half the inputs. To get around that, I use SPC-DS3. (It emulates the PS3 controller as a 360 one, and I've found it to be really easy to use, without all the weirdness of Motion-in-Joy.) You can use it wired with a standard USB cable, or wireless if you're willing to dedicate a Bluetooth dongle to controllers (most dongles work, I think, but I use this ioGear -- although, mine is the older version -- and have been pretty happy with it.)

I also use JoyToKey, which allows me to map controller buttons as keyboard (and mouse) input (so, I can use a thumbstick for WASD).

My mouse is a Logitech G602, which is currently $62 at Amazon. There are plenty of other mice that you could pick, but I like the G602 because (A) it's wireless; (B) it lasts about 3 months on just two AA batteries; and (C) it's the right size/shape and has the right number of buttons for my hand. Find whatever one works best for you.

One last thing about this combo: most FPS games that I play tend to use WASD for movement, Shift/Control/Space for running/crouching/jumping, and then Q, E, R, F, and X for various actions that you need to be quick about. That means you need 8 extra buttons between your joystick and mouse. The Navigation controller has 9 extra buttons, but you have to press seven of them with your thumb. I don't like to take my thumb off the stick and stop moving every time I need to reload, melee attack, throw a grenade, etc., so you're probably going to want at least 3 or 4 programmable buttons on the mouse. (Honestly, I virtually never change the DPI and I almost always use the scroll wheel to change weapons, so in an FPS I only really use 3 buttons, but in an MMO I use them all.)

You are right. I gave it a look and it requires Bluetooth 4.0 LE devices. Which is a shame, but I wonder if I get this and put it into my mac, somehow maybe I would be able to use it as a updated bluetooth.

"Allows any computer with a USB port to become a Bluetooth enabled computer" Hm.. I have Bluetooth 2.0

I am not sure about that, it would be a nice work around. Maybe I can find some more information on it somewhere, unless someone stumbles upon this thread and reads my comment with Bluetooth 4.0 LE knowledge and if it could possibly work.

I use the older version of this guy:
http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Bluetooth-Micro-Adapter-GBU521/dp/B007GFX0PY

I have the 421 model and it works wonderfully. Do not install the provided drivers, though; they suck hard and the Xinput tool needs custom drivers anyway.

This is what I use, in that I bought the dirt-cheap Lenovo Explorer yesterday on a whim, and didn't realize I needed Bluetooth.

I had bought this adapter a long time ago for something that I don't recall. Dug it out of storage, popped it in, Windows 10 auto-installed the driver, and I was ready to go instantly.

good news, tested my xbox controller, it works!
steps:
plug in the bluetooth adapter

sudo pacman -S blueberry bluez bluez-plugins bluez-utils

su (su into root as next command can only be run as root):
echo 1 > /sys/module/bluetooth/parameters/disable_ertm

enable auto-power on for bluetooth:

sudo nano /etc/bluetooth/main.conf

ctrl+w search "AutoEnable"

Uncomment it and change it to true, should look like this:

[Policy]
AutoEnable=true

sudo systemctl start bluetooth.service
sudo systemctl enable bluetooth.service

After that, open bluetooth gui (mine was located in MATE menu>system>preferences>hardware>bluetooth)

turn bluetooth power switch on in the gui
hold the sync button on the xbox controller until the light starts flashing quickly
in the app you should now see "Xbox Wireless Controller" --click it

in a few seconds it will connect! tested and working in steam :)

this should work with multiple controllers as each controller has its own MAC address which bluetooth uses to connect.

here's my bluetooth adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Bluetooth-Micro-Adapter-GBU521/dp/B007GFX0PY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491526206&sr=8-1&keywords=bluetooth+usb+iogear

with this adapter you'll need to make sure the controller is pointed towards the adapter, and im not sure how good the range is. worked fine for me for a few feet away but id suggest trying a different adapter that has better range. this just happened to be a spare one I had

I'm going to give this one a shot as it supposedly works on linux and has a 50m range:
https://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B01MZ21SC8/ref=psdc_3015437011_r0_B01MZ21SC8

it should ALSO be noted this only works with newer xbox controllers, and does not work with the xbox elite controller (the elite controller does not have bluetooth). it will say on the back of the box if it has bluetooth

texted in steam big picture and in rocket league - xboxdrv is NOT necessary


note: this should also work with ps4 controllers (will test, both of mine are charging atm)

I used the Iomega BT dongle. It worked fine in my Sierra install on a different Hackintosh.
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Bluetooth-Micro-Adapter-GBU521/dp/B007GFX0PY

I already ordered this

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Bluetooth-Micro-Adapter-GBU521/dp/B007GFX0PY/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540078169&sr=1-9&keywords=bluetooth+4.0

​

so that should work fine

What dongle is that? This one?

That TP-Link card should be compatible.

These are compatible with macos:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GFX0PY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=tonymacx86com-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007MKMJGO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=tonymacx86com-20

My previous Mac was the same, so I researched it as well. The tool is available on this site and for you requires a dongle based on the Broadcom BCM20702 chip. The ones they recommend are below:

http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-USB-Adapter-Bluetooth-USB-BT400/dp/B00DJ83070/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425415585&sr=8-1&keywords=Asus+BT400

http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Bluetooth-Micro-Adapter-GBU521/dp/B007GFX0PY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1425415585&sr=8-2&keywords=Asus+BT400

The page supplies the directions. Hope this helps.

I ordered this - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GFX0PY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 seems to work just fine in Yosemite. Does not seem to work at all in the bios. So there's that.

Okay, I couldn't wait to hear if anyone else was able to use this successfully with a 3rd party adapter. I'm using a custom-built Hackintosh with this adapter:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GFX0PY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It found it immediately, and works brilliantly.

Yes. I couldn't get the bluetooth working on the BCM943602CS card I have installed in one of my M.2 slots, so I just bought this USB adapter. I probably could have figured it out, but I just didn't want to deal with it.

I use this one
It works like a charm with my Wireless PS3 controller. You should be able connect at least two controllers per bluetooth adapter.

I use this one it just plugs in via USB and macOS recognizes that it has bluetooth and it has worked flawlessly for me so far. I use it to connect to apple wireless keyboard and Magic Trackpad.

That's apparently all it takes under 10.11 El Capitan, however the discussion here indicates that driver may not work under 10.12 Sierra.

Edit: According to the discussion thread here the TP-Link N300 Wireless Mini USB Adapter works under 10.12 Sierra with the drivers included in the thread.

Or should I get one of these internet usb sticks? https://www.amazon.de/TP-Link-TL-WN823N-Adapter-geringe-geeignet/dp/B0088TKTY2/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=wlan-adapter&qid=1566073853&s=computers&sr=1-6

Here you go mate. Use unregistered Windows 10, until you can get a cheaper copy.

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor | £119.97 @ Laptops Direct
Motherboard | MSI B450-A PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard | £79.99 @ CCL Computers
Memory | Team T-FORCE VULCAN Z 8 GB (1 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | £30.18 @ Aria PC
Storage | TCSunBow X3 240 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | £24.39 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £36.78 @ Aria PC
Video Card | XFX Radeon RX 580 8 GB GTS XXX ED Video Card | £159.00 @ Amazon UK
Case | Thermaltake Versa H22 ATX Mid Tower Case | £28.48 @ Amazon UK
Power Supply | Cooler Master MasterWatt 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | £53.09 @ CCL Computers
Monitor | AOC E2270SWHN 21.5" 1920x1080 60 Hz Monitor | £70.91 @ Box Limited
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | £602.79
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-07 10:27 BST+0100 |

Edit: USB WIFI dongle

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0088TKTY2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RRPsDb2EDQ0P2

I would really enjoy this seeing as I have slow internet and I absolutely adore gaming with my boyfriend (: Also. Elephant Barber :P Something about me. I'm working towards getting my GED so I can head into college. I wanna be a forensic specialist (:

There's not really much to say, anything £10 or under will suffice. I'd suggest looking at powerline adapters if your simply in another room and want a good connection.

Something like this will do fine

Se sei neofita, lascia perdere. È semplice ma se non sai dove mettere le mani, ti consiglio questa: https://www.amazon.it/dp/B0088TKTY2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RD78Bb1BGH6K0

Altrimenti, potresti mandare una mail al venditore su Amazon e chiedere se possono montare per te una scheda di rete WiFi. (ovviamente pagando quel che costa la scheda, intorno ai 15-30€) rispetto alla chiavetta, la scheda di rete ti permette di avere una porta USB libera in più e la scomodità della chiavetta contro le gambe (se metti il pc sotto la scrivania).

For the build I've planned to just buy a standard/cheap wifi tp-link adapter on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0088TKTY2/?tag=pcpapi-20

Would be new for me if that wouldn't work but lemme know

Using this while the Ethernet is down in the student uni halls. Sometimes drops out very hard, should I invest in another card / adapter? Powerline's aren't an option either.

Yes, you have around two options (mostly)

1. Internal WiFi cards like this one
   
2. USB WiFi cards like this one

Ta réception sera probablement meilleure avec une "vraie" carte comme sur ton lien, mais si t'as pas envie de te casser le cul ces petits machins-là fonctionnent très bien. Je connais des tas de gens qui utilisent ça sur leur PC fixe parce que la box est pas à portée de câble Ethernet (ou genre s'ils ont pas envie de faire un trou dans un mur, ou si le câble doit traverser un couloir et tout le monde se prendrait les pieds dedans, etc.).

Just get one of these, follow the steps and you'll be good to go:
http://www.amazon.ca/TL-WN823N-Wireless-Mini-Sized-One-Button-10-4-10-8/dp/B0088TKTY2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1426569158&sr=8-6&keywords=wifi+adapter

That's a nice build but to be honest I'd drop the ram down to 8 and use the money to get a SSD. I picked up this for the wireless. Works grand.

This is a really great guide on how to get things going. You can use netflix, hulu, hbo go if you get PlayOn. I believe it is $19 a year or $39 for a lifetime pass. The site says $60 but I just checked and my prices are accurate. You can also set it up as a media server which is pretty cool too.

I've got a B+ on the way and this is what I'll be doing with it. I opted to get this keyboard instead of the Flirc, mostly because I can't see myself enjoying even a netflix search using my clunky tv remote. Also should be able to use a wireless adapter if an ethernet cable is not an option.

You can actually just get a USB WiFi adapter which works just as well as an internal card. This one is pretty decent but it depends on your WiFi connection.

Just save the effort and grab a wifi dongle that supported ...

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0088TKTY2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1525451612&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=tp+link+usb+wifi+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=310p-qdCPrL&ref=plSrch

You can download the drivers in windows and run them in the hack boom good to go that’s the one I use those driver also recognize my other cheap ac adapter but crashed during use you can try the driver there on the tplink website

No, you don't need a separate CPU cooler, the included stock cooler will work fine. However, it will provide a very tangible boost in CPU performance and longevity. I highly recommend it if you have the money to spare, and it's absolutely necessary if you want to overclock.

With that in mind, I don't think you should buy one for this build. It's probably worth it to spend more money on your GPU instead. Here's what I recommend:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 ATX AM3+ Motherboard | $109.99 @ NCIX US
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $77.98 @ OutletPC
Storage | PNY XLR8 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $109.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | XFX Radeon R9 280X 3GB Double Dissipation Video Card | $259.99 @ Newegg
Case | BitFenix Comrade ATX Mid Tower Case | $34.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | Corsair CX 430W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $44.99 @ Newegg
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $637.93
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-08-25 13:24 EDT-0400 |

+ this wifi adapter: http://amzn.com/B0088TKTY2

For a total of $653.93!

Breakdown:

• The 990FX chipset provides great USB3 speeds, and will allow you to overclock if you get an aftermarket cooler later.
  
  
• I prefer a single-channel 8GB stick to two dual-channel 4GB's, because, even though it's marginally slower, it depreciates MUCH more slowly, and allows for more future upgradibility.
  
  
• The XLR8 is slightly cheaper than the 840 EVO you suggested, and about the same speed.
  
  
• The 280X is a beast GPU. It should definitely be able to run CS:GO at 144fps.
  
  
• The case is not the best, but it still looks great (IMO). Shouldn't give you any problems.
  
  
• This PSU doesn't leave you much room to upgrade in the future. However, it is dirt cheap and semi-modular. Yay!
  
  Let me know if you have any questions!

Yep, something along the lines of this tiny one, or this bigger one (which would probably be more reliable at longer ranges).

Or a USB one (eg: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00BBD7NFU?psc=1)

Hey,

How about the ASUS Vivobook S410UN? It has:

• i7-8550U 4-core processor
  
  
• 8 GB of RAM
  
  
• 256 GB SSD storage
  
  
• 1080p 14" display
  
  
• MX150 2 GB graphics card
  
  
• Weight of 3.2lbs and battery life up to 8 hours
  
  The laptop runs Windows 10 Home. The laptop is very light and thin which should be much better for you. It has a decent battery life. It should be excellent for the uses you listed. It will be able to run CS:GO. No build in Ethernet, but you can get a USB to Ethernet adapter.

> Do you plug a gigabit ethernet adapter right into your gear vr USB port?

Sure, you can do that if you get hold of a Type-C to Ethernet adapter like this. Or you can get a more standard Type-A adapter like this and use it with a Type-C OTG adapter like this (you get one of these with the S8/S8+). And obviously you'd want a router/access point/host PC with Gigabit Ethernet ports if you want to avoid any bottlenecks.

To be clear though this solution will only work with S8 devices (and only with the 2016 and 2017 Gear VR models) because earlier Gear VR compatible phones do not support Ethernet connections (Samsung added it back for DEX). You can probably hack Ethernet support back into older phones if you're rooted but I can't help with that because I've never done it.

I guess it's easier to understand if I link some stuff.

You can get something like this cable, this adapter, this hub, or anything else that looks similar. They all do the same thing so it doesn't really matter which. Any of them can connect to the bottom of the Switch to let you plug USB stuff in. Switch has the same kind of port (it's called USB-C) as the recent Macbooks so a lot of these things say they're for Macbook but they work with Switch too.

Only some USB LAN adapters work with Switch. Here's a few examples: HORI, Plugable, Cable Matters, AmazonBasics. Any of these work the same so get whichever one you can. They all work with the dock too.

If you don't care about using a LAN adapter with your dock at all, you could also get this LAN adapter instead which plugs directly into the Switch without needing another adapter, but you cannot use it when the Switch is docked.

Does OS X show that the Ethernet is connected with a proper IP and should have internet, or that the cable is unplugged (or some other message) in System Prefs->Network?

Also, FWIW I bought this gigabit ethernet USB adapter for $20 for just such occasions.

There are USB Ethernet adapters that work well, look up something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBD7NFU

Few suggestions then at this point, in no particular order:

1. USB to Ethernet adapter instead of using the built-in: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00BBD7NFU/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1522086886&sr=8-8&keywords=usb+to+ethernet
   
   
2. Install your own internal ethernet: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-PCI-Express-TG-3468/dp/B003CFATNI/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522086941&sr=1-3&keywords=pcie+ethernet+card
   
   
3. Reinstall Windows 10 and make sure to install the drivers only (which may or may not actually fix the problem)
   
   I would recommend 1 or 2 as they are cheap solutions that should work without any further issues.

OK thanks, I'm just on day two of trying to plan my build.

So would you use something like this going into your switch?

The Cable Matters ones are pretty kickass

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00BBD7NFU/

This is what I use. It's cheaper, and it's not made by a bastard company that tries to fuck you in the ass.

If you have a desktop or a WiFi router you can use that as a middleman to bridge your apartment's connection to the Switch's WiFi connection.

For the desktop you'd need a second WiFi adapter or one of these with the USB end on the switch and the cat5 end connected to your desktop.

What you're saying here should work. Not clear on why the sonic wall is plugged independently into the switch. Not NATting with it?

Anyway, this is the kind of challenge that a home lab is for.... But ultimately I have to admit that I wouldn't do it myself.

I'd VT-d the USB controller to the VM and use one of these. Or switch the NIC out with a dual port version.

(The 1000Base usb3 nics are fu**ing amazing. Like Intel-on-a-stick quality data speeds.)

I have a B7A and I bought this Adapter:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BBD7NFU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

At first I didn't think it was working when I plugged it in it said "unknown device connected" and under network connection it said "not connected". However I opened up plex and I played a 4k HDR 100Mbps+ movie and it works great with no stuttering at all, and this is in plex, not XPLAY. Well worth it.

Just thing to note you have to forget your wifi SSID otherwise it will default to that.

EDIT. Just did a speed test on it. Was able to get 250 down. When my computer can get 300. So pretty happy, this was my only complaint about this tv

>No they don't, it's miniPCI-e. mSATA is for storage only, mPCI-e supports both the PCI standard and USB 2.0.

Intel makes msata chips for ITX boards, and you can buy them separate as well

You aren't going to find many laptops with a active stylus at that range
[maybe this] (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/sony-geek-squad-certified-refurbished-vaio-flip-14a-2-in-1-14-touch-screen-laptop-8gb-memory-black/3979765.p?id=1219094931057&skuId=3979765&st=flip%2014a&cp=1&lp=2) or an acer R7
You will need to replace the wifi card for the sony with something like this

If you want an asus flip

Also, what about this one? http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Network-7260-HMWG-Wireless-AC-Bluetooth/dp/B00DMCVKMU/ref=pd_cp_pc_1

What makes that ebay one the best to get?

> because "just put a new network card in it" isn't really an option for most laptops without replacing the motherboard.

And that's why I like laptops with easy-accessible network card. Just got a new AC Adapter for mine (too bad my network is Wireless-N).

Most current generation desktops are adequate for your usage case. I'm personally a fan of the Intel NUC form factor (link). This particular model is one of the newer options and would more than handle everything you will throw at it after adding RAM, an SSD, and optionally a wireless card. The total cost is approximately $590, or $710 if you upgraded to a 480GB SSD. You would also need to buy Windows (or use another OS of your choice).

That said, there are a few important caveats. This may not provide the absolute best value for your money on all fronts. I like the form factor, but you could get more for $600-$700 if you used the Toms Hardware Q1 System Builders Marathon, $750 PC article. By the same hand, that PC is massively overkill for your usage model- integrated graphics from both AMD and Intel can easily handle Netflix. You could probably stay around the $300-$400 price range with some help from /r/buildapc. That said, I still like the NUC since I can mount it to the back of my dumb but otherwise nice TV, attach a webcam and do tutoring/blogging/netflix/home theater stuff with XBMC with a clean looking setup.

I think if you're happy to spend the money, it's a sleek option. If not, the other suggestions here are also all very well thought out.

Ah okay. I'm assuming it's this one then... http://www.amazon.com/Intel-7260-HMWG-Wireless-AC-7260-Bluetooth/dp/B00DMCVKMU

awesome this was the advice i was hoping for. I was also looking at this card: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMCVKMU/?tag=extension-kb-20#Ask, however the one you suggested already has high ratings, and with your recommendation i think I'm just going to get that. Thank you!

Thanks for the tip.
Sorry. Here is an m.2 wifi card
http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Network-7260-HMWG-Wireless-AC-Bluetooth/dp/B00DMCVKMU
Which is listed as : PCIe Half Mini Card/ M.2 (NGFF)

I am curious about getting one because it would free a PCIe slot.

oh right, woops!

what types of things should i be looking for when shopping for the best internal WiFi-card?
i'm looking at :

1. http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Network-7260-HMWG-Wireless-AC-Bluetooth/dp/B00DMCVKMU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408124250&sr=8-1&keywords=intel+7260
   
   
2. http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TG-3269-1000Mbps-Gigabit-Network/dp/B0034CSUZ8/ref=zg_bs_13983711_4
   
   
3. http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Gigabit-Network-Adapter-EXPI9301CTBLK/dp/B001CY0P7G/ref=zg_bs_13983711_5
   
   

I would recommend GIGABYTE Model GC-WB867D-I. I've been using it for almost 5 months now and it has performed so much better than this cheap usb wifi adapter I had for a short time. On the Gigabyte, downloading on 5 GHz, it will be at a constant 30 to 35 Mbps. Whereas on the usb adapter, downloading on 2.4 GHz, it would constantly bounce from 30 Mbps to 5 Mbps. Really annoying when playing online with the ping jumping from 45 ms to 500 ms. My router probably plays a roll in this, but ill be switiching to a AC router soon.

Back to the Gigabyte, the wifi chipset is the Intel AC 7260 that supports 2.4 Ghz and 5 Ghz and Bluetooth 4.0. The 7260 a mini pcie, which fits in a laptop. You can buy just the Intel AC 7260 itself, but for a couple dollars extra, you get a black mini pcie to pcie adapter of you want to use it on a desktop.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DMCVKMU/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&smid=A3G4Z7JJ34B7QN

Is that the wireless card you are talking about? Will that card fully support Kali tools? I also have an external TP Link card I use with my Pwnpad which I like a lot.



My plan was to upgrade to a 128GB SSD (does the x140e support sata 6gb/s?) And at some point upgrade to better ram.

My biggest aversion to getting the C720 is that I picture it being a pain to get everything working. I have a MBP 2011 13" that I tried dual booting with Kali and while I got it working it was a mess. The Thinkpad is rugged, easy to upgrade and from what I can see well suited for Linux.

The best.. not sure. I bought one of these a year ago: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMCVKMU

It seems to work well. I think Intel may have a newer model but I haven't looked into it.

As the title says, I just put this card into my HP Pavilion 17-E118DX which is running Win 8.1 and I receive "Can't connect to this network" when trying to connect to my Linksys E2500's 5GHz wifi which is set on WPA2 Personal. (Before I added the new card, the laptop couldn't even see that channel, so I guess this is an improvement :p )

We tried lots of things in the other thread, and then it went quiet, can y'all fix it?

Let me know if you need more info, thanks!


EDIT: The issue seems to have been inadvertently corrected when I flipped the security to WEP to see if if would connect (it did) then back to WPA2 Personal. It connects just fine now.

go into device manager (you can search for it on your start bar) and look at what is under "network devices".

You can also look up your exact generation of dell inspiron 15 on google about upgrading wifi and you'll probably get hits.

I upgraded my N card to this ac card http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMCVKMU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

it was simple enough, but you have to be sure you have a screwdriver that can open your laptop.

i have this card https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMCVKMU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

it should max up to 430mbps

and

Thanks for the pretty thorough response. One thing I might try first when I get home is restarting the modem. Charter said it's been up for 133 days. I don't know if that could have anything to do with it at all.

Is there a chance that running dual band is messing things up? I tried switching to just 2.4 Ghz a while back and my laptop ended up having the issue my girlfriend was having. My wireless card (this one here) supports both bands.

It's a panda wireless USB wireless adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Panda-300Mbps-Wireless-USB-Adapter/dp/B00EQT0YK2

https://www.amazon.com/Panda-300Mbps-Wireless-USB-Adapter/dp/B00EQT0YK2/

unfortunately, it is not automatic. you have to download the source packages from tp-link via the link I provided and unzip it, then install the solus development group via the terminal command sudo eopkg it -c system.devel

once that is done you can follow the instructions within the tp-link source code to compile it. hopefully it will work for you. If you are unable to compile the drivers you can always pick up a $15 linux compatible usb adapter from amazon such as:

https://www.amazon.com/Panda-300Mbps-Wireless-USB-Adapter/dp/B00EQT0YK2

Yeah, that's when I switched also. One of these would probably be your easiest solution.

Panda 300Mbps Wireless-N USB Adapter https://www.amazon.in/dp/B00EQT0YK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7vP4CbW7M6XZY

This is the one I bought.

The cheapest one I know would be the "panda" . It's quick and easy to install and should easily work with any Linux software.

https://www.amazon.com/Panda-300Mbps-Wireless-USB-Adapter/dp/B00EQT0YK2?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00EQT0YK2

Do you have a spare USB wireless adapter you could temporarily use to facilitate Internet access for the 17.x install? Seems odd that both your existing wireless and wire access do not work with Linux Mint 17.x drivers. Even with my (almost 10 year old) stock Acer Aspire 1 Netbook, I had internet access right away. In fact, every flavor of Linux (from Puppy to Open Suse) I tried worked with my hardware. You could purchase at a wireless adapter for under $15. https://www.amazon.com/Panda-300Mbps-Wireless-USB-Adapter/dp/B00EQT0YK2/ or borrow one from a friend. What is your PC hardware build profile?

> That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.

I believe you ;)

> One thing I just came to realize, and I have no idea why I didn't see it before, but this PiDrive thing doesn't have an opening for the network cable, meaning I'd have to get a wireless dongle thing.

That's something I said as well in this reply:

>> On the other hand, the enclosure makes it a lot more difficult to connect other USB devices or an ethernet cable to the Pi.

The downside of the PiDrive enclosure, at least of the 6x6 inch one you've chosen, is that it doesn't expose any of the USB or ethernet ports directly to the outside. You have to insert the cable into the enclosure first and there's only one narrow opening for the power cable. You can see that in the official product overview video you linked to earlier (if you click on this link, it'll start at the relevant passage). I'm sure you can use that for a second cable, but after that it might be too narrow for more.

> I'd consider perhaps buying something as simple as a TP-Link TL-WN725N

I think the last point has already made this superfluous but I'll reply anyway.

Don't buy a nano adapter like that unless you put a device, if not directly next to the router, then at least in the same room. The wifi quality will probably be better than Raspberry Pi's own, but in many cases you can get extra stability and transfer bandwidth if you use a more substantial adapter. Yeah that may not look as impressive but I take better network performance over better optics any day.

I can suggest this page to you, it has a list of wifi products and how well they work with Linux in general. The link is filtered on USB only, but it has other lists too. Also, just in case you find this misleading, a "green" value means the adapter works well on Linux, not that it works out-of-the-box. Another important resource for this case is the Raspberry Pi list of verified peripherals USB wifi subpage.

Anyway, I did already mention some good chipsets for wifi adapters in the past (I mentioned that Ralink 3070, Atheros AR9271 and Realtek 8187 were the most common that worked well), but generally speaking you should buy hardware the other way around. Decide on a nice item, then research if it works on Linux and/or how complex it is to set up. If the results are good, great; if not, look for another product. Rinse and repeat until you've found one.

The biggest thing you'll have to learn if/when you become a Linux user yourself is that you've been incredibly spoiled in terms of driver support on Windows. On Linux that's a lot slower to come for your average consumer device/component and this often means you won't be able to buy the newest product. There's a high chance it won't work out-of-the-box and may even require some extra work of you.

If I had to choose myself, I'd either take the Panda PAU05 which is a bit bigger than its nano adapter version but still reasonably compact, or the Panda PAU09 if a stronger network quality is desired. The latter can either be directly attached to the USB port of the target device or the antenna placement can be freely chosen if the stand is used.

Try one of these

https://www.amazon.com/Panda-300Mbps-Wireless-N-Adapter-button/dp/B00EQT0YK2

They also have a smaller more compact version if that matters.

Check the blue image for the updated list of supported OS's.

I just picked up a Panda PAU05 to use with Kali in a virtual box via my Macbook Pro and it was totally painless to get running.

You'll need to buy an external wifi dongle - the internal MBP one doesnt work. I just ended up buying this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EQT0YK2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oh hadn't thought of that. I will have to shift it over to Ethernet after work to check.

I am using this adapter for wifi

I have 100 MB/S internet speed but my computer only gets 10. I am using this 300 MB/S USB adapter

I have an Archer C7 Router and don't believe it is the fault of the router, because my phone gets 90 MB/S when connected to the same wifi.

How can I speed this up?

This one has worked on every system and every linux distribution and or windows install I've ever put it on and it's fast too.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EQT0YK2

This one worked for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EQT0YK2/

I didn't use it much so I can't say if it worked well.

It's possible you can get your wireless working. It looks like there might be a kernel patch, and possibly an issue of secure boot keeping the kernel from using the chip: https://askubuntu.com/questions/765584/is-it-possible-to-use-broadcom-bcm43142-wifi-in-ubuntu-16-04

It is a desktop, custom built. I'll link to you the products to save you some time.

Motherboard
CPU
GPU
HHD
Power Supply
RAM (2 stick, 16GB total)
Wireless Adapter

Well the network name is Netgear-2.4-G, so I would guess so.

[This] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EQT0YK2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) is the wifi card I have, and it worked well enough at the last location I had it set up at. Strangely the bar strength doesn't seem to have changed.

It was actually the wifi dongle: https://www.adafruit.com/products/1012

It's a piece of garbage. It drops connection every few minutes. It won't even work on my PC, ssh just keeps timing out.

Swapped it out with this one that I had laying around and it's working beautifully.

How insanely frustrating to deal with this all week thinking it was a fault on my part.

so I don't normally recommend off-brand stuff, but these have been working very well for my mom and grandma for months.

I'm guessing this one?

Okay so I got like 2 questions regarding cable management.

1. This is my setup for ethernet right now and it's not the cleanest and it's damaging the crap out of the cable. I was thinking about getting a powerline adaptor so I could have cleaner cables without making too much of a mess. Does anyone have any recommendations or should I stick with awkward ass cables for the sake of specs? I game online extremely frequently and I need a stable connection for most of them, plus I intend to stream (Twitch/Picarto) in the future. Currently I'm getting 90-105Mb/s down and 20-25Mb/s up though direct connection to the router.
   
   I found three candidates, lemme know if there's a better one: First, Second, Third.
   
   
2. How could I get the cleanest possible cable mangement with a UPS like this? Is there a way to conceal this or make it look appealing?

The last building I was in was built 8 years ago, brand new wiring. Powerline adapters worked great for years, I had 4 of them connected for the router and three desktop machines. Not sure what else to tell you.

EDIT: Here are the ones I use:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA6010KIT/dp/B00IBPLI48

Are 471 reviews with a 4-star average lying to you? I think not.

I've had similar issues, and a huge difference was made from purchasing a set of TP-Link TL-PA6010 Powerline adapters. See the link below...

I don't read of these or similar as a solution very often, and I don't understand. My speed got a small boost, nothing huge....but the difference is the latency.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00IBPLI48?th=1

You get points for MacGyver-ing together working solutions, but are you here are some better and "more proper" ways of doing it:

1. Best case, if you can run in a single Ethernet cable from your bedroom out the living room, then get another wireless router and place that into the living room. Connect the two routers together lan (not wan) port to lan port. On the second router in the living room, going to the menus and turn off DHCP so that IP addresses will only be issued by the router in the bedroom. Boom you're done and everything will run fast and smooth.
   
   
2. if you can't run the ethernet cable, you can also replace the ethernet cable with power line networking boxes to use your electrical wiring to create virtual ethernet cable to connect the two routers as described in number one. This will cost a bit more then the cable and its performance depends on the type of wiring and stuff in your house, but you can work really well.
   
   
3. you can also get power line networking devices that have wireless or additional wired ethernet ports on the receiver box. For example, this one has a receiver box with four ethernet outputs that could accommodate your equipment in the living room without an additional router needed.
   
   
4. if you still want to go the wireless route, you can get a wireless bridge unit that will connect to the wireless signal coming from your main router and then distribute that to the additional wired devices in your living room.

I had previously been using a Netgear WNDA4100 but was having issues with packet loss and overall spotty connectivity. After looking into alternatives I bought the a TP-Link powerline adapter which I have been using for nearly a year, and I only have good things to say about it. This is the model I purchased but their are higher and lower tier models as well. http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA6010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00IBPLI48

Maybe ethernet over powerline would work for you!

What was the speed of the powerline adapters? You want to use 500mbps or higher.

The lower speed ones may be older models based on an older version of the "HomePlug AV" standard. You need to make sure you are using one with a newer version of the standard as it will have better error correction and if the line is worse, you will still see better speeds. A crappy line with the 500mbps adapter may still get 100mbps. But if you are starting with a 200mbps adapter, you are going to get much lower.

You will want to use something like:
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA6010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00IBPLI48 or
http://www.amazon.com/ZyXEL-Powerline-Gigabit-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00D7GF6NA

The Zyxel is most likely the better option.

It's doesn't necessarily have anything to do with the distance you are from the router, it has more to do with the throughput of the router. Game streaming requires higher end routers (like the AC models that you mentioned). While they're still fairly high in price, they are dropping slowly as they become more of the norm. You'll have a lot better success with streaming wired though if you chose not to purchase a new router.

If you are streaming to a laptop, upgrading that router would be my priority. That will ensure that you get the least amount of network lag. If you are like me and just streaming to another box in your house (I built a cheap $200 machine that I have connected to my TV), then you should look at these. What these do allow you to run ethernet, through your entire house, using power outlets. This would give you the ability to run ethernet, over to a box that you may have running with wireless connectivity.

Just a suggestion.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00IBPLI48?th=1

Is that product in the link you showed me the same as the one in this amazon one? They look different so I'm not sure.

For powerline, this one is good ($39.99)

If you have to get a wifi adapter then this one is probably the most worth it

you can, or you can do what I did and buy a powerline adaptor that plugs in near my router and then is plugged into the room with my link is located. Run the Ethernet cable that way to avoid the extra work of either hiding the wire or having it just sitting out along the floor. This is the one I bought from TP Link though it was on sale for around $30 when I bought.

Sure, I get your point. I wasn't expecting the advertised rates. I did a lot of research, and maybe the reason mine perform so well is that they're relatively close together, even though they were on different floors? I have the TP-Link AV600, which is actually last generation I think.

When I had 300mbps service I was in a different house, router and modem were on first floor, and I was on second floor, that's where I was able to get the 250mbps if my roommate wasn't on his computer as well. I was just as surprised as you when I got those speeds, as I had figured I might tap out around 80mbps.

In my current house, I've only got 100mbps service, as I couldn't justify spending the extra money for 300mbps. So I can't recreate those previous results now. What I can say though is that those same adapters are getting me ~115mbps when no one else is on the network. That's through Steam downloads, speedtest.net and speedof.me. I'm on the same floor as the router now, but not much closer. I can take screenshots when I get home if you want more definitive proof than my word.

I haven't noticed any problems when other electronics are on in the house. Ping rates like to spike at certain moments, but it was the same way for when I was connected up via ethernet directly to the router, so not sure where that's coming from, although I think it might be our chromecast causing it. I have two roommates, and we all play Rocket League together on our own computers each hooked up to their own AV600, and we've had no problems playing together online with that, our ping rates are usually around 30-60.

This was one of the reviews of powerline adapters that I remember looking at when I was researching. Looking at it now, I would think that their results are a bit higher than average, but overall it's still relatively accurate.

Powerline/Homeplug

I use
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA6010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00IBPLI48/ref=zg_bs_1194444_4

THIS! I recently did this in my home due to needing to move my router and wifi to another part of the house. It's getting me the same speeds as if I was plugged in directly to the modem. Make sure to get a gigabit adapter set. Here the TP Link one I used. It is also very small and does not interfere with the other power outlet where it's plugged in to. Make sure you don't plug them into a surge protected outlet or the performance can suffer. Best $80 I've spent on my network.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IBPLI48/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks again for all the help. Would any gigabit router work, like these:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Wireless-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00JZFG6QS

Or

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002YLAUU8/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1484172720&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=gigabit+router&dpPl=1&dpID=41CDHg%2BLqdL&ref=plSrch

Would I need to get the AC router in order to maximize performance or would the N router work just as well, as long as they're both gigabit?

Also, would wireless speeds go up at all with a gigabit router? Can wifi speeds get close to max (like 100-120) with a better router?

Ubiquiti is great, but you don't need to spend a lot of money on a reliable router. TP Link makes nice 5GHz routers for not that much money.

$48 - https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Wireless-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00JZFG6QS

$60 - https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-AC1750-Smart-Router/dp/B00BUSDVBQ

Just some ideas of what you can look into. If your current modem is a router combo you might be able to place it into bridge mode and connect to the WAN port of a router. That might require a call to your ISP.

• NetGear R6220
  
• TP-Link Archer C5
  
• TP-Link Archer C9
  
  All of these would exceed your 8 device requirement. Also it would "future-proof" you if you decide to upgrade from DSL to something faster. They all run off 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands. The 2.4GHz band is better for range as it goes through objects better. However the 5GHz outperforms at shorter ranges and also has less interference from other wireless devices.

The TP-Link Archer C5 for <$50 is generally considered the best value router. The modem depends on the internet connection you plan to use, for cable this Netgear modem for <$50 is usually considered the cheapest decent one. Do check with your ISP to confirm compatibility. Never ever buy those combo modem-router-in-one boxes, they don't work for shit.

Wireless card in laptop: Intel Dual-Band Wireless-N 7260
Ethernet: Intel Ethernet I218-LM

Wireless I am getting 120 Mbps, wired I am getting 87 Mbps. On my desktop wired I am getting 81, it is behind one extra gigabit switch.

I guess the wireless in my phone does suck. 120 is still 50% more than 80, however, even though 80 is still markedly more than what I am paying for (~30 Mbps).

Maybe my ISP is just having an issue of some sort. I am certainly surprised my wireless is performing better than my ethernet connection, however. My modem is a Motorolla Aris Surfboard, and my router is a TP-Link Archer C5 (https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Wireless-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00JZFG6QS/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=205M6828PZ5QES6R91VF).

The ports should be gigabit, but I am still getting better wireless speeds from my laptop.

Maybe I should wait a week to see if the "issue" resolves itself, because currently it seems both of my computers are getting higher than average speeds, and my Arch Linux speeds when wired roughly match that of my W10 desktop when wired. The wireless must just be a LAN issue.

you mean this one: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Wireless-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00JZFG6QS ?

Modem

Router

I know very little about networking but i've decided to finally buy my own crap instead of giving those assholes more money. This from what i can tell is a pretty good set up. Its not Extreme but it would fit most normal households and its future proof (right?) Not everyone can spend $200 on a router.

You have seen this:

http://wiki.openwrt.org/toh/tp-link/tl-wdr7500

Some more info:

http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-reviews/32498-tp-link-archer-c7-v2-reviewed?showall=%26start=1

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-C5-Wireless-Gigabit/dp/B00JZFG6QS

http://www.wirelessrouterhome.com/tp-link-archer-c5-analysis/

Maybe this one, if you still need it to have gigabit LAN ports at the router

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-C5-Wireless-Gigabit/dp/B00JZFG6QS

I just have a Linksys EA6100, & as far as connection speed goes I get anywhere from 585-867Mbps on 5Ghz AC. It doesn't have gigabit LAN ports though, but I don't have a lot of devices & none are wired. Haven't done speed tests for file transfers on the WLAN.

This is what I'm using and it works well.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-C5-Wireless-Gigabit/dp/B00JZFG6QS

I also have an expensive EA9200 Linksys tri-band router, but I had some issues with it so I'm not using it atm.

For that budget, I recommend an ARRIS SURFboard SB6141 and a TP-Link AC1200 (Archer C5)

I am personally running a TP-Link AC1900 (Archer C9) and a ARRIS SURFboard SB6183, which gets me even 5 Ghz Wireless everywhere in this 2 story big house, but the Archer C5 should be good too.

C5 looks like the same price as this one in the OP

https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Wireless-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00JZFG6QS?sa-no-redirect=1

I might get that but this router also has got great reviews at half the price seems like a newer model and uses the same ac technology. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZFG6QS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_8D3Qub1WZRQ75

Thank you for your replies. I may need a new router.. how is this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JZFG6QS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?tag=slickdeals09-20&ascsubtag=8c805c307ee611e6a3d90a5bf7764e230INT&ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sdsrc=staff

Thanks for the tips. I ended up getting this router and my wired speed went from 80 Mbps to 200. And my wireless speeds doubled

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JZFG6QS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JZFG6QS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

I'm using a TP-Link Archer C5 on a 100mbit down/10mbit up network.

This is a great review site for networking stuff.

http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/

Best reviewed AC1200 router $90
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JZFG6QS?ie=UTF8&tag=small0c-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00JZFG6QS

Best reviewed AC1750 router $130
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N2ROH0C?ie=UTF8&tag=small0c-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00N2ROH0C

If you go with a good higher AC router, you start pushing even closer to $200.

But check out that website, see some reviews. A 3rd ranked in any given AC category router will be solid, but who knows, might be a good bit cheaper.

I've really liked my [Netgear] (https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-AC1200-Wi-Fi-Adapter-A6210-100PAS/dp/B00MRVJY1G/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1484673616&sr=1-1&keywords=netgear+wifi+adapter) adapter when I used it for a while. It also supports beamforming so it could help a bit if your signal isn't the greatest.

You might check out this Netgear USB adapter. Netgear is a consistently good network device manufacturer. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MRVJY1G/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_8oNiDb7ZX7YET

Yeah, I haven't seen many adapters above $40, but the few I've seen have good reviews. This has caught my eye. The only thing I'm worried about is whether or not it requires wifi to install as it would take a lot of effort for my to get one on 2.4 GHz.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-AC1200-Wi-Fi-Adapter-A6210-100PAS/dp/B00MRVJY1G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483397819&sr=8-1&keywords=netgear%2Bwifi%2Badapter&th=1 this guy has worked perfectly fine for me for the past 3 years. currently running windows 10

You want/need an 802.11ac adapter that supports at least 2x2MIMO - look for something with two antennas. Generally going to be advertised as 867, 1200, or 1300Mb/s.

I'd probably get this, or if you absolutely want USB/save cash, this (but I suspect performance will be worse).

While Ethernet is best, if you must go with wifi, then look for a good USB wifi adapter (minimum 2 stream 802.11ac (AC1200) )

(Please, if you can, try to do a direct Ethernet connection, it will offer you the best possible experience)

Under ideal conditions, 2 stream 802.11ac, tops out at about 500mbit/s on the 5GHz band, and around 250-270mbit/s on the 2.4GHz band, though if you are far from the access point (even if just 20 feet + a wall, can easily drop the throughput to around 100mbit/s)

The main problem that PCI based wifi adapters on desktop PC's have, is the antenna location. The antennas are usually on the back of the case, and thus half of the signal path is being blocked by the case which acts as an RF shield.

While you can improve the signal by getting some longer coax cable and moving the antennas to a better unobstructed location, but you then get signal loss.
With a USB wifi adapter (USB 3.0 preferred), you can place the adapter in a good location and not have any signal loss since the analog signal is made digital before you suffer any line losses. (PS USB 3 wifi adapters will restart them selves if you connect to a 2.4GHz network, as USB 3 signals heavily at 2.4GHz, and thus the adapter drops to USB 2 mode to avoid raising the noise floor for the wifi)

If you want one of the fastest USB 3 wifi adapters, then you are looking at the netgear A6210
http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-AC1200-Wi-Fi-Adapter-A6210-100PAS/dp/B00MRVJY1G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416840946&sr=8-1&keywords=netgear+a6210

PS keep in mind that with both wifi, and powerline, as the signal weakens, the latency will increase.

If you want the best possible wifi connection, then the only option, is to use 2 wifi routers as a wireless bridge.

This is a benchmark of my R6300V2 being used as a wireless bridge http://i.imgur.com/3zK7rq8.jpg
(pretty much tops out at pretty much 702.7mbit/s, and due to the high transmit power on both ends (2 routers each pushing close to 1000mw ) the range is extremely good, which is another benefit of wireless bridges, a normal client will typically have around 100-200mw transmit power, while a good router will pump out close to 1000mw, they also tend to have better antennas, and better receiver sensitivity (which is usually why a higher transmit power router can improve range even though the client has a low transmit power)

I've used the usb based wifi adapter, so far it has performed well above my expectation.
This adapter is also compatible with Windows 10, which makes things smoother. As for performance, it maxes out my internet connection speed provided by my router even though the router is separated by multiple walls and a ceiling (I estimate to be about +5 meters away.)

NETGEAR AC1200 Wi-Fi USB Adapter High Gain Dual Band USB 3.0 (A6210-100PAS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MRVJY1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_4IM5xeVTtjEAI

Also remember, to use the AC feature provided, you must have a router that supports AC, mine doesn't =(

I bought this one.

NETGEAR AC1200 Wi-Fi USB Adapter High Gain Dual Band USB 3.0 (A6210-100PAS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MRVJY1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_J80yCbT47NSQR

I have one of these if you could throw me an extra $5 for shipping.

I'm trying to decide between two network adapters, which one should I get? The NETGEAR AC1200 Wi-Fi USB Adapter High Gain Dual Band USB 3.0 (A6210-100PAS) or the TP-LINK AC1300 Wireless Wi-Fi USB 3.0 Adapter (Archer T4U V2)?

You can grab a PCI-E 1x wifi card like so, or you can get a USB dongle like so. I'm not endorsing either of these products, simply showing as examples.

Don't know why I didn't think of this before. Theoretically slower throughput than an internal card, but still should have enough to handle pretty much any modern wifi. I would recommend using the wire portion in addition to the stick to get it away from the pc a bit as USB3 and wifi can have interference. Should be fine if you plug the wire in and put the stick on your desk. Can def be more easily removed than an internal, then you can put it in a briefcase handcuffed to your best friends wrist when you don't need it.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-AC1200-Wi-Fi-Adapter-A6210-100PAS/dp/B00MRVJY1G

Give this one a shot. If you have BB around you can return rather easily if it doesn't work for you. You do need a USB v3.0 port for it.

Not sure about cheap ones but these are some I've personally used

• WAVLINK 1200Mbps
  
• NETGEAR AC1200
  
• ASUS PCE-AC56
  
  
  In all cases. It's plug and play

I pay approx Rs. 3400 quarterly for 3 months.

I am thinking of considering this: https://www.amazon.in/Netgear-AC1200-A6210-100PAS-Wi-Fi-Adapter/dp/B00MRVJY1G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525798495&sr=8-3&keywords=wifi+adapter+ac

I bought one of these high gain dual band usb adapters

This is the list from the post. He bought the suggested parts.

Published on Jul 5, 2019

Gaming Benchmarks & Prices for this PC: https://youtu.be/L8hmFm_Z2NM Here is my step by step tutorial on how to build my $600 Spark V2 gaming PC! Links to parts, tools, and resources are below. How to install drivers on this PC: https://youtu.be/uDHeIx9CNxA How to install windows on this PC: https://youtu.be/AfC5ViBiRQM Social Media: INSTAGRAM: https://www.instagram.com/scattervolt DISCORD: https://scattervolt.com/discord TWITTER: https://twitter.com/MarcAranibar ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Parts List: Buy the CPU here: US: https://amzn.to/2RLpfGS UK: https://amzn.to/2IZGktR CA: https://amzn.to/2Xe48mu EU: https://amzn.to/2FINgcH Buy the CPU Cooler here: (optional) US: https://amzn.to/2NmbjVh UK: https://amzn.to/2YpAib8 CA: https://amzn.to/2LuP2BR EU: N/A Buy the MOTHERBOARD here: US: https://amzn.to/2Xa6VZb UK: https://amzn.to/2FJUYU1 CA: https://amzn.to/2NxkQJk (ATX version, cheaper) EU: https://amzn.to/2xjq00m Buy the RAM here: (different brand, same specs) US: https://amzn.to/2LzikiK UK: https://amzn.to/2IXjWkW CA: https://amzn.to/2JjrtJN (single stick, still 8GB) EU: https://amzn.to/2YjTgA8 (2800mhz, still fast though) Buy the GPU here: US: https://amzn.to/2ZXbCal (different model, cheaper) UK: https://amzn.to/2xmm3Z2 CA: https://amzn.to/2RLlVLI EU: https://amzn.to/2JgfXyG (different model, cheaper) Buy the SSD here: US: https://amzn.to/2Ls5ClV UK: https://amzn.to/2XftxY6 CA: https://amzn.to/2RQ59ve EU: https://amzn.to/2xlJstn Buy the PSU here: US: https://amzn.to/2XEqgWp UK: https://amzn.to/2xrGu6x CA: https://amzn.to/2XJW9gi EU: https://amzn.to/2XeVHlW Buy the CASE here: US: https://amzn.to/2XEwuWm UK: https://amzn.to/2xvOTpX CA: https://amzn.to/2NpVKMe EU: https://amzn.to/2IYym44 (Optional) RGB case fans: US: https://amzn.to/2XhH7z4 UK: https://amzn.to/2LsQmW9 CA: https://amzn.to/2XgfNMX EU: https://amzn.to/2J2T82u ---------------------------------------------------------------- PC Upgrades: If you have $25 More to Spend: (SSD Upgrade) US: https://amzn.to/2Nxsvaa UK: https://amzn.to/2Lzj8Ei CA: https://amzn.to/2RONZy6 EU: https://amzn.to/2LptJlc If you have $75 More to Spend: (CPU Upgrade) US: https://amzn.to/2XhOou4 UK: https://amzn.to/2FCNzpB CA: https://amzn.to/2XBPkxr EU: https://amzn.to/2XimLWs -------------------------------------------------------------------- PC Accessories/Building Tools: Handy Magnetic Screw Driver Kit: US: http://amzn.to/2Fdh03o UK: http://amzn.to/2FWsndf CA: http://amzn.to/2FROG3u DE: N/A Bios Speaker (for troubleshooting): US: http://amzn.to/2FokCi6 UK: http://amzn.to/2FokKOC CA: http://amzn.to/2oK2DsU DE: http://amzn.to/2FTLSmv USB Wifi Adapter: (For a wireless connection) US: https://amzn.to/2WsrqE3 UK: https://amzn.to/2JNrNDp CA: https://amzn.to/2M8FXk9 EU: https://amzn.to/2VVLEl8 PCI Card Wifi Adapter: (For a faster wireless connection) US: https://amzn.to/2XCtslr UK: https://amzn.to/2IYnnrw CA: https://amzn.to/2ZXccVz EU: https://amzn.to/2FHN65u Cat7 Ethernet Cable: (For a wired connection, fastest, plug into router) US: https://amzn.to/2W9dShq UK: https://amzn.to/2MfphaM CA: https://amzn.to/2W4XNt0 EU: https://amzn.to/2JK1DkP Windows 10 Home: US: https://amzn.to/2EByu7c UK: https://amzn.to/2HEIIWj CA: https://amzn.to/2YRlbqJ EU: https://amzn.to/2YRIxgc *Here's how to install Windows 10 for free on your own USB drive: https://youtu.be/AfC5ViBiRQM

is the problem the internet itself or that your devices don't pick up the signal from the router? in the latter case, I can recommend this extender. It's worked great for me. I live on a second floor with the Liberty modem/router downstairs. The difference is night and day since I got it. You can plug the antenna straight into your laptop or use the cable that it comes with and place it somewhere where it gets the best signal. The cable it comes with is only about 2ft however, so you might want to get a longer one depending on your situation.

As suggested by /u/JustinTheCowSP you need a better wifi adaptor, I suggest you looking into this, https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00MX57AO4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485586121&sr=8-2&keywords=alfa+wifi+adapter I myself have this adapter and have been using for 3 years now with no lag, strong signal and great speed. Also check your wifi adapter setting on your current pc, you might have to fiddle with some settings to get better signals.

When I was researching wifi in the past, I found that the receiver didn't really matter. What matters is the antenna your using. I'm not to hot on bandwidth limitations through usb 2.0/3.0/Pcie with wifi cards. I would assume usb 3 is better than 2 and pcie is the top dog. In your case I would assume they don't really make that much of a difference.

If you use the third one that you posted, and upgrade the antennas to a 9dBi antenna and screw those on instead of the antenna that came with the receiver, you will get a higher receiving range on your computer and a stronger connection. Not necessarily faster download speeds because, ya know, wifi. If you SOMEHOW are able to find the router, or eventually set up a repeater, you could buy another pair of those antennas and slap those puppies on, that may boost your range even more. At that point, if you're really concerned, you can try exchanging antennas until you get the best range for you and your computer. For now stick, with the Alfa wifi adapter and if you're not happy with your range, upgrade both antennas to the 9 dBi version. Those will definitely help you out. :)

If you're looking for a USB adapter, this one treated me well. https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00MX57AO4/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1466282629&sr=1-2&keywords=alfa+wireless+adapter

in USB 3.0 the speeds and rate at which those speeds were delivered were identical to ethernet. However, be sure that you wireless router is up to snuff, as gaming on wireless can be problematic.

Then your only option is to get a better antenna. Get a external USB WiFi dongle with big antennas, like this one.

What about if im at work and the wifi signal is weak, i dont have access to the router only my samsung chromebook?
I was looking for something like this
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=twister_B00HY63DNE
Would it work?
or this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MX57AO4?psc=1

i was looking at something like this
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MX57AO4?psc=1

I would bypass the bulit-in card and get a USB wifi receiver. I've had very good results with this style of adapter:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Network-AWUS036AC-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Connections/dp/B00MX57AO4/ref=pd_sim_sbs_147_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31OerUmBCBL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=1QKFY6V0YSW7GMR892YF

Get an external antenna. Either a +9 dB antenna that connects to your laptop, or connects to a long USB cable, so you can leave it by the window.

Something like this may work.

I haven't even looked yet, but I'll look right now and edit the post

Edit added shit below:

I'm thinking of getting this https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00MX57AO4

Yes I bought a AC adapter a couple of years ago this one specifically.

Unless you have the biggest house I've ever seen its not too far. Its just the cables you buy are generally short. Amazon/bestbuy and sometimes even walmart sell the really long cables. Make sure they have ends on them though or you will have to add the connectors yourself.

You could run the cable along the edges of the rooms. Behind the baseboard, ceiling edges etc. You could even run it through the walls if you wanted it to be sexy. Lots of youtube videos on it, but it will be the most frustrating thing you've ever done.

Have you considered buying an external long range wifi adapter like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-PCI-E-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1406702709&sr=1-3&keywords=asus+wifi+adapter

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00MX57AO4

As for power-line adapters they can have really bad gaming performance if thats important. Seems to depend on the wiring in the house and devices on that circuit.

It honestly depends on the usb adapter. I'm fairly experienced with it, because I only have wifi as an option.

I'm currently using a high gain, usb dongle from Alfa Network.

That thing boosted my wifi connection from -85 to -39. When I was still using my TP-Link dongle, I had 30-50 ms speeds from dongle to router. Now it's between 3-19 as I've just checked. Of course it doesn't come close to 1ms ethernet speeds, but it's more than enough for gaming.

I bet I could even increase the speed even further, if I would dump my isp router and get a proper high gain router instead.

What's a good wifi adapter for long range? I've been using this for a while but recently its been disconnecting alot: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MX57AO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_JRzqzbXWKXWCV

Does anyone know if this is any good?

http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Removable-Connections/dp/B00MX57AO4#

I prefer not to recommend, as what may work for someone may not work for you. WiFi is a very situational thing. But I'll give some more information:

First, find out if your router is running (802.11) AC or N or other (G/B?). AC is the most modern, N is still OK. Are you running a 5GHz network or a 2.4GHz network? Is the PC near the router, or a fair bit away? All this makes big differences to your choice of stuff.

If you do not think signal is going to be a problem (eg your phone is full signal in your room), a USB dongle is probably the most optimal starting solution. Preferably one that works fine on default Windows drivers, so you aren't installing unnecessary junk. One with a good cable to reposition as well.

If you think signal will be a bit weak, try the PCIe option. Reason is the antenna's are bigger and better, and if needs be they are replaceable with more suitable ones.

This little guy appears to mix the best of both worlds. However, I think you'd want a USB 3.0 extension wire according to the top comment...

I personally use a bridge. If you don't have reasonable network knowledge, don't go near one. Mine took a few hours over the course of a few weeks to fully stabilise and tweak. However, if you want a little challenge in the future, have a go. It'll be able to overcome most all issues people have with WiFi if you get it right.

Best no hassle solution. A powerline adapter and a pair of suitable length ethernet cables.

From a quick look at that picture and a little googling, looks like there is no internal WiFi. So I'm going to guess you are using a USB WiFi adapter.

The PCI slots in that computer are half height, or "low profile", so that will limit what you could put inside the case. A quick search on Amazon shows a few low profile WiFi 6 adapters, but they are from companies I've never heard of.

Unlike 802.11ac, most of the enhancements in WiFi 6 require support in both the access point and the client, so unless you are upgrading your router at the same time I wouldn't bother. It's probably a good idea to wait on WiFi 6 until the 802.11ax draft is approved by IEEE, which should be a only a couple more months plus a bit of time for products to be certified and make it into the supply chain.

My recommendation is to get a 802.11ac 2x2 USB adapter. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00MX57AO4/

The little stand it comes with let's you put the antennas higher up and away from the sheet metal in the computer, both of which will improve signal quality.

coax latency is already triple that of fiber,
so just get a good wifi antenna for your pc;
https://www.amazon.com//dp/B00HF8K0O6 pcie
there are plenty to choose from, but i would
advise getting anything where the antenna is
on a wire so it can be far away from the card.
https://www.amazon.com//dp/B00MX57AO4 usb

the deal where you can't wire between his modem
and your pc is kind of lame, considering the cabletv
company would have run another coax to your modem,
so either way - more wires getting tacked along the wall.

So the EagleTec keyboard is a recommendation from a friend who has one and swears by it, so I don't mind spending the £50 on that to be honest.
The screen I think you are right 21.5" might not be big enough I dont mind upgrading to a slightly bigger one for a little extra.
The wifi adaptor has been changed to this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Networking-Devices/Network-AWUS036AC-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Connections/B00MX57AO4/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&dpID=31OerUmBCBL&dpPl=1&keywords=long%20range%20wifi&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&qid=1501160785&ref=plSrch&ref_=mp_s_a_1_2&sr=8-2

But unfortunately I cannot go wired network in my situation atm, however, in the future it should be no problem.

I have one concern with the GPU you have put, and its probably just me being pedantic about the name but its called a 'mini video card' vs the 1050Ti non 'mini video card' does the fact its called a mini video card effect things?

I've ordered this one! Is this what you're talking about? https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00MX57AO4/ref=ya_st_dp_summary?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You could try using a Powerline adapter.

NETGEAR PowerLINE 1200 Mbps, 1 Gigabit Port (PL1200-100PAS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S6DBGJM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JoqJybN9M4M88

The performance will vary, from what I've heard, depending on your electrical network.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1200-Gigabit-PL1200-100PAS/dp/B00S6DBGJM

I bought two of these and use a steam link to play my PC on the couch. WiFi was not useable at all. But these work awesome! No lag at all.

They are kinda pricey be but I bought 2 used ones for $30 on eBay.

Here's what I use.
NETGEAR PowerLINE 1200 Mbps, 1 Gigabit Port (PL1200-100PAS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S6DBGJM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QsdiAb1NFQGQA

Along with a network switch.

I use these ones.

I have 4 of them; 2 in one building, 2 in 2 other nearby buildings, all on the same side of the same transformer.

https://www.amazon.ca/NETGEAR-Powerline-1200-port-Starter/dp/B00S6DBGJM

I use [this] (https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1200-Gigabit-PL1200-100PAS/dp/B00S6DBGJM) and it works pretty swell.

Preferably something with HomePlug 1200 compatibility, that's the fastest current standard. Can get ones that provide a WiFi access point on one end too, that'd be handy for things other than your desktop at that end of the house. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Extender-Powerline-TL-WPA8630/dp/B01A90CH4M/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1493189017&sr=8-16-spons&keywords=wifi+powerline+1200&psc=1

Or ones that just do the powerline to ethernet for a bit cheaper https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1200-Gigabit-PL1200-100PAS/dp/B00S6DBGJM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493188985&sr=8-1&keywords=wifi+homeplug+1200

Go with powerline adapters. They use the power circuits in your house to extend the network upstairs. Better performance than WiFi.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1200-Gigabit-PL1200-100PAS/dp/B00S6DBGJM/

You could look into a powerline adapter to have ethernet go through powerline.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-Mbps-Gigabit/dp/B00S6DBGJM/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1498434722&sr=1-3&keywords=powerline%2Bethernet&th=1

Havent used that powerline, but for the price/speed ratio it looks like garbage. If you can, take them back and pick up a netgear PL1200 or PL1000 adapter. A few dollars more than what you paid, but a huge improvement in performance. I swear by these powerline adapters, and they are the only ones a can say have worked very well.

As far as your no internet issue. when you have the pc plugged in, go into your modem settings and look at the ipv4 client table, see if your PC has been assigned an IP address. Also, do you have dhcp enabled or are you using static IPs? one more, what speed do you get from you ISP (not ACTUAL speed, but what speed package do you pay for)

Edit: I guess more than a few dollars difference, I was looking at the 4 port model which is ~$60. But still, well worth it if it'll solve your problem

This is kind of related - but I made a home office based around a desktop that does not connect to wireless and it's in an area of my house far away from the router/modem. Picked up one of these rather than running a 1,000 ft ethernet chord through my walls:

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1200-Gigabit-PL1200-100PAS/dp/B00S6DBGJM

Most of the bandwidth is taken up by the PLEX VM, transferring files from the seedbox to local storage, and some light web browsing. Other than that there isn't much network usage for this machine.

Do you have a recommended adapter? I found these that looked pretty decent:

TP-Link AV2000

Extollo Ethernet Powerline LANSocket 1500

NETGEAR PowerLINE PL1200-100PAS

TRENDnet TPL-420E2K

*edit: formatting

it'll cost you about $80 to "set up." You can get cheaper models that have less bandwidth, this is the one that I personally am using right now.

Ridiculously simple, you just plug one end into your router and into the wall, the other into the wall and your PC, and it works. The only way it won't work is if your power lines are on separate circuits within your building, so check that by flipping breakers off one by one. If your router turns off at the same time as whatever you have plugged in in your PC room, you're good to go!

I use wireless on my Netgear Nighthawk AC1900, And it works great. I decided to run a 50ft Ethernet just to test out how much better it could be with a wired connection, and the difference was negligible. If I sat down and picked it apart I could see a difference, but playing a game, I couldn't see or feel anything different.

If you want to go with the PoE, the general consensus is to aim for a 1Gbps kit or more. And the one you linked is way more expensive than the 1.2Gbps Netgear one [here.] (http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-PL1200-100PAS-Powerline-1200/dp/B00S6DBGJM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1449589822&sr=8-3&keywords=netgear+power+over+ethernet) This has been in my wishlist in case I wanted to upgrade, But I haven't felt the need to.

Edit: Clicked save before I was done.

Just to confirm, the room is not outside the house from the drawing, correct? I would personally use a Wifi-Extender and see if that works. How big is your house in sq ft to your room? (meaning how much square feet does it take from your router/modem to your room)

What type of router/modem do you use? I use a Wifi Extender in my house as well. I currently use a Netgear one which is this https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wi-Fi-Range-Extender-EX2700/dp/B00R92CL5E?th=1 that goes up to 1000ft but you can get less or more depending on price. (Amazon has this exact model for 600 sq.ft currently on sale) I do recommend hardwiring if you can but if not these extenders work great. I would determine how weak the signal is at the very weakest spot and measure the square footage on how far you want the signal to go. This way, you can keep extending the signal. I have Netgear Wifi Extenders in my 4500 sq space and it really works well to extend the signal and to get fast speeds.

If you are interested in easy hardwiring and not Wifi, I attached this short text below. I hope this helps!

In my bedroom, I use a NETGEAR Powerline Adapter 1200 MBPS. https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1200-Gigabit-PL1200-100PAS/dp/B00S6DBGJM This can be on the pricy end at $75.00 currently on Amazon. Personally, I prefer the Adapter more in my opinion because you can hardwire a switch to it to have multiple devices rather than running a jack or many cables. You can never go wrong though with a direct modem/router connection for devices.

behold basement greatness

in short the ethernet is run over the electricity in ur home. sure beats running CAT5 everywhere!

Ah. Well the good news boils down to two things that you've already figured out.

Get a better stand-alone router and use that. Honestly if your hardwired devices are no issue, which I realized not long after I commented, then you shouldn't have to worry about a new modem at all. Just a good stand-alone router.

Aside from that, for any devices that can be hardwired (laptops, desktops, consoles) you can always get a powerline adapter. Especially for a console.

If your home is massive then for phones/tablets you can bridge routers or get range extenders.

Right now I'm using a netgear powerline adapter for my desktop and our old xbox 360 is hardwired to our second router.

For how our apartment is set-up it's the only way to avoid running cables in inconvenient places. Also, my husband is much happier with his wifi signal on our second router in the bathroom compared to the 1st router's signal. So there's that.

This is the powerline ethernet adapter I picked up, it's a bit pricey, but I wanted to future proof for a bit.

I'm using Netgear's PowerLine 1000, but there's also the PowerLine 1200 that has up to a 1200 Mb/s speed for like $10 more.

Ill tell you what, I had This netgear Version and they were as good as useless. I had them between the router and the esxi host and storage box that I have and doing anything from the router side of the pair was painfully slow. As soon as I replaced them with a cat 5e cable my speeds went from about 2MB/s all the way up to 15-18MB/s on average just on downloads alone see here

My upload is terrible but thats Comcast's fault. I had them in the same room on the same breaker and they would constantly report bad connection even though they were one outlet away from one another - which was infuriating having plex stutter to start playing and just dont even try to skip ahead 30 seconds (wired LGTV Plex app)

I would say only use ethernet adapters unless its 100% necessary, otherwise figure out how to run a cable through the wall, along the baseboard or down through your basement because it is certainly worth it.

Have you looked into powerline adapters? It transmits your network through your power so you don't need to run a wire, or get another router.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S6DBGJM

Plug one in downstairs next to the router, plug one in by you. Should help your speed.

Built looks good, although is you don't mind spending an extra $15 I would go with the TP Links AC600 for the wifi adapter. This one has a very strong signal and is dual channel, so if your router gives a 5ghz signal you can connect to that and it should be much faster. I bought this 2 weeks ago and it has been working well.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Adapter-Archer-T2UH/dp/B00UZRVY12/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1485831701&sr=1-1&keywords=tp+link+ac600

Yes, but that nano can't do packet sniffing/monitor mode.

If you want a real Kali powerhouse, try a TP-LINK TNxxx with an atheros chipset

This

or This

depending on your budget, and you'll have some great fun with ettercap and all that stuff

No idea whether it's built in, but a USB adapter like this

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wireless-Adapter-Archer-T2UH/dp/B00UZRVY12/

is generally better due to the ability to reposition it a bit.

The long-run solution is running ethernet or setting up MoCA or the satellite equivalent, but that's more expensive.

What router do you have? If it's the one given by Google, you'll get best speeds using an 802.11ac wireless card. [This is the closest I could find] (https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wireless-Adapter-Archer-T2UH/dp/B00UZRVY12/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1467728527&sr=1-7&refinements=p_36%3A1500-3500) that was near $20 and also from a good company.

EDIT: [I also found this, but it doesn't have an antenna, which might mean reception trouble.] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LCACS0C)

1. Desktop 2. Yes, this one
   3. Yes 4. Yes, starting tails normally.
   
   I should also note that I tried using the rfkill list command in root terminal, and nothing comes up.

Yes something like the TP-Link AC600, for example...
TP-Link AC600 High Gain Dual Band USB Wireless WiFi network Adapter for PC and Laptops (Archer T2UH) https://www.amazon.com.mx/dp/B00UZRVY12/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kvImDb5BWJ1AK

Thanks for the feedback https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-T2UH-Dual-Band-Compatible/dp/B00UZRVY12 this is the one I have and it lags there are only about 2 walls I between my pc and the router so idk what to do about positioning?

Would you recommend the 4800 for a computer on a shared network with a bunch of others (2.8 and 5ghz) and a signal that needs to go through 2 (albeit thin) walls? Looking to get this for myself but debating between it and a cheaper TP Link USB wireless adapter (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-T2UH-Wireless-Supports/dp/B00UZRVY12/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456960207&sr=8-1&keywords=TP-LINK+Archer+T2UH+AC600)

I really need some help here fellas. So I bought this adapter here for my brand new PC and I have had some really annoying things happening. I have tried every piece of troubleshooting I could find on the internet and the problems are just not going away. My PC is 10 feet away from the router and neither my phone or my crappy Toshiba Satellite from 5 years ago have any problems connecting to the internet. I am however running Windows 10, which I think is probably the root cause of all this frustration. So here are the problems I'm having:

• DNS Probe Error in Chrome, saying it couldn't find the internet. This is with a full signal strength connection to my home network.
  
  
• I get a prompt from Windows saying it cannot connect to my home network, even though again it has full signal strength. After putting in my password, it says connecting for a few minutes, then I get the error message.
  
  Now these are the things I've done to try and fix these problems:
  
  
• Update/Reinstall Network Adapter Drivers
  
  
• Different USB ports
  
  
• Turned off power setting that enables Windows to turn off the network adapter to save power
  
  I'm really hoping someone can help me out because this is just such a bummer. This is my first PC and everything with the build went relatively smoothly asides from this fiasco. A few other things of note:
  
  
• If I get the DNS Probe Error in Chrome and restart my computer, I get the "Can't connect to Network" issue.
  
  
• I can resolve the "Can't connect to Network" issue by restarting my router, but then I still get the DNS Probe Error. If I reinstall drivers and restart, the same sequence of events take place: DNS Probe Error > Restart > Can't Connect to Network.
  
  Thanks in advance guys.

TP-Link AC600 High Gain Dual Band USB Wireless WiFi network Adapter for PC and Laptops (Archer T2UH) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UZRVY12/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Xio9mA3UsB5u7

If you’re just looking to plug into usb and play away I’ve used this one for over a year no issues and matches my white look.

This: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Archer-T4U-V1/dp/B00JBJ6VG8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1505975750&sr=8-4&keywords=tp-link+wireless+adapter

Or this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Adapter-Archer-T2UH/dp/B00UZRVY12/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1505975750&sr=8-6&keywords=tp-link+wireless+adapter



Really anything TP-Link will be all you need. Just set a price point and desired speed.

Ive used Belkin and Netgear for years with constant disconnects but never had an issue with my TP-Link N600.

Sadly you can´t find those where I live in, only through the internet can you buy one.

However, I found this one. It is available in physical stores not very far from me. I guess this one is what I look for?

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-T2UH-Dual-Band-Compatible/dp/B00UZRVY12/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=TP-LINK+AC600&qid=1555690522&s=electronics&sr=1-1

Usually my go to option if none other exists. Last I looked (don't use wifi anymore on PCs - google wifi is good shit) these did a good job:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-T2UH-Dual-Band-Compatible/dp/B00UZRVY12/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1527396809&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=tp+link+wifi+adapter&psc=1

Thank you for this. This saved me a good amount of $!

I'll perhaps looking into a longer ethernet cable as suggested.

Could you provide advice on something like this High Gain Wireless Dual Band USB Adapter would be of any help if plugged into my laptop?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UZRVY12/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use that one for my iMac

EVGA 500W Non Modular PSU $36

Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 G1 $409.99

MSI Z170A-Pro $107

Vengeance LPX 8GB DDR4 DRAM 2400MHz $45

i5 6600K $235.99

TP-Link AC600 Wireless High Gain Dual Band USB Adapter $24.99

Thats a total of: $859. That still leaves you with some room for your case and a hard drive or a solid state drive. If you have Prime, you'll get everything in two days for free (Student Prime, Trial). Dont forget the CPU FAN! Coolmaster has the 212 for $27 or so!

EDIT: I had posted it as a comment to your post again instead of as a comment to you reply, but I fixed it hopefully before people saw it!

This one is great

Have you verified your broadcom chipset is packet injection/monitor mode capable?

I ended up picking up an Alfa this one for ~$45 dual band as well runs faster than my wifi on my mac. With another card I can continue to do things online & capture/do whatever on the Alfa at the same time.

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00VEEBOPG/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549756310&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=alfa+awus036nha&dpPl=1&dpID=414MIvj0FGL&ref=plSrch

These are great if you're running Linux or have any plans on doing package captures.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VEEBOPG/ref=as_at?creativeASIN=B00VEEBOPG&linkCode=w61&imprToken=EbAumYDZv3il.gf5l0-W-Q&slotNum=11&tag=wireless2018-20

Aircrack is safe but you will need a wifi card capable of packet injection. In Aircrack, you can isolate a single wireless network and send deauth packets. Which de-authenticates devices which are connected to that WiFi network. Essentially, they are disconnected. You can deauth for a short amount of time or let it run indefinitely.

Alfa makes some pretty good wireless cards.

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00VEEBOPG/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2U5GVB6F1JKU9&keywords=alfa+wireless+adapter&qid=1556828344&s=gateway&sprefix=alfa+wire%2Caps%2C185&sr=8-3

Alfa Long-Range Dual-Band AC1200
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VEEBOPG/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_vR8OBbQ4FQYPE

Works in monitor mode too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VEEBOPG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3IjNBbM0H5C3N

Stick it in a bag to hide it.

Step 1: Get this (or something similar):

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00VEEBOPG/ref=pd_sbs_147_t_0/136-2705769-8042210?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00VEEBOPG&pd_rd_r=5d6fe997-2011-44da-89ef-9cd8d8b333f7&pd_rd_w=8t2q7&pd_rd_wg=hSGDO&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=5QCM0YQK5SA3E2DWH9NR&psc=1&refRID=5QCM0YQK5SA3E2DWH9NR

Step 2: Connect the antenna to a computer, install the drivers, and then use the new wifi antenna to connect to your apartment's network.

Step 3: Download and install a wifi hotspot software (see below) on the computer which will allow you to share the connection from the stronger wifi antenna with your other gadgets (e.g. ps4).

https://www.howtogeek.com/214080/how-to-turn-your-windows-pc-into-a-wi-fi-hotspot/

I use one of these and am able to get wifi from across the street from starbucks with at least 3 bars when I am working on the road and need to use my laptop. I've used other extenders but this one seems to be the best especially if they are using a 5ghz AC wireless router.

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00VEEBOPG/ref=pd_sim_147_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00VEEBOPG&pd_rd_r=4FN6YFJ0VHKTTB8HW1XX&pd_rd_w=BYSKr&pd_rd_wg=28XDM&psc=1&refRID=4FN6YFJ0VHKTTB8HW1XX

I have this one
https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00VEEBOPG

You have to compile the driver in order to use it.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00VEEBOPG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1CSD37BFGDG5P&psc=1

The linksys ac1200 wusb6300 is a good choice if a traditional form usb wifi adapter is what you're going for, or for even more performance, at double the cost, the netgear nighthawk ac1900 is an even better choice that should have slightly better range due to a somewhat adjustable antennae. The netgear model is also among amazons top selling wifi adapters which coupled with that price tag indicates that it is a very good purchase.

If you dont mind a cable and an external dongle that has to be somewhere then this thing with a very long name is both popular on amazon and among online reviewers.

Im assuming you live in the US of course and im not entierly familiar with that market as im european

Try this guy:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-1-Gigabit-Compatible-ChromeBook/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E

Yah, at work I use my CalDigit dock for ethernet. I have this at home if I need to connect to my switch: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ethernet-Portable-1-Gigabit-Chromebook/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E works fine at 1gbit... just be sure to install the drivers off Anker's website.

usb c to Ethernet Adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RMhgzbK5H39GV

I use an anker usb c to ethernet dongle from Amazon

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-1-Gigabit-Compatible-ChromeBook/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1538543479&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=anker+ethernet+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=31hBV-ZIvwL&ref=plSrch

Yes, you would have to buy a USB type-C to Ethernet adapter or a USB C to USB 3.0 adapter and a Ethernet to USB 3.0 adapter. I would recommend getting this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gmHXBbXCHSPEE

my external HD fried on me and as you are aware there is no ethernet jack on the new touchbar MBPs. All the reviews for
and adpator say it is barley faster than wifi for data transfer.

Without knowing more about your ingest workflow it's had to say, but you might be well served with a Pegasus R6/R8 or similar. That'll give the bandwidth to be ingesting a few cards at once and be duplicating to a portable drive that can go back to editoral. The fewer volumes I have to manage the easier I find staying organized. One 30TB volume seems a lot more manageable than 6 4TB drives floating everywhere. If you go the RAID/NAS route make sure you don't go too small.

A RAID could also be easier on the AEs if the DIT cart can be connected to the SAN and ingested that way. Instead of a couple hundred Mbps you could get in the Gbps range. Remember that standard gigabit ethernet won't be the answer for high speed transfers.

I know you have three laptops for ingest, but I'd try to build the cart around one laptop copying footage. Again, fewer moving parts is easier to manage. Having a utility laptop that can tackle other tasks is often useful. If you need to make proxy files in the field look into a NAS solution instead of a RAID so you can get two, three, or more computers hitting the storage concurrently.

---

On top topic of a DIT cart, put some thought into a cart. What it should have. I'd be looking for a big heavy UPS on the bottom to give the thing some stability. Maybe an APC2200? Not sure how worried you are about weight...don't use that if you're flying with it. Get your own network going on there if you have multiple computers. Also add a Thunderbolt dock and power strip on the top to give you more USB ports and power for all the travel drives that will show up. I'd connect drives to a laptop in the middle and look for a way to put a laptop on an arm on the side of the cart too. Needs to collapse down so the whole things is self-contained for transport. I'd use the middle laptop for copying and the side laptop for proxy creation.

Make sure you have all the cables on hand. Thunderbolt 2, USB2 B, USB2 Mini-B (old GoPro charging), USB2 Micro-B (old Android charging), USB3 B, USB3 Micro-B, and finally USB C. I'd have 1 each on the USB2 variants, 2 each on the USB3 variants, and 3 of the Type C variants. Gauge your own need for Firewire 400, Firewire 800, HDMI, Ethernet, and the requisite dongles. Might be wise to have a USB-A dongle and maybe an Ethernet dongle on hand for the Touchbar laptops. Even if you don't have a Touchbar they're coming. It isn't that much money (comparatively) to keep these kinds of things in a drawer, but it can make a huge difference if you have it on hand.

I'd probably trick my cart out with a mass charger and some Lightning and Type-C cables. Hit all the cables with some orange gaff or some sort of mark so that people don't carry them away. Might even tape the phone cables to the cart. Might seem excessive, but if you set that up people won't be filling up your power strip with their chargers or plugging their phones into your ingest station. 10 ports might be more than you need, especially since people shouldn't be using their phones too heavily on set, but the goal is to make sure your power strip isn't used on phones.

---

As for software, you'll have to consider your needs and what fits them best. I'm not a lot of help on that front. Haven't messed around with the options too much.

To add to this, I just recently bought this adapter and have had no problems with it. It also matches the laptop!

Anker USB-C Unibody Aluminum Portable 1-Gigabit Ethernet Port Network Adapter, 10 / 100 / 1000 Mbps Compatible, for MacBook Pro 2016, XPS, ChromeBook Pixel and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3fKHzb1RM4EMJ

I can't think of an option that checks all the boxes (but maybe one exists).

What about the [Acer Swift 3] (https://shopineer.com/laptops/Acer-Swift-3-8th-Gen-Intel-Core-i5-8250U-15-6-Full-HD-8GB-DDR4-SF315-51-518S)?

• 8th Generation Intel Core i5-8250U Processor (Up to 3.4GHz)
  
• 15.6"
  
• 1920 x 1080
  
• 8 GB RAM
  
• 256 GB SSD
  
• Windows 10 Home
  
• 10 hours battery life
  
• 4.63 lbs.
  
  It also has good build quality (aluminum case) and an IPS screen for wider viewing angles.
  
  This latest gen quad core CPU should be great for general use and it can also handle some light gaming.
  
  It lacks an ethernet port, but you could get a USB-C dongle, something like [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/Anker-USB-C-to-Ethernet-Adapter-for-USB-Type-C-Devices-Including-the-new-MacBook-2016-ChromeBook-Pixel-and-More-Silver-Aluminum/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E).
  
  Alternatively, there is also this [14" config] (https://shopineer.com/laptops/Computer-Upgrade-King-CUK-Acer-Swift-3-Stellar-Blue-Ultrabook-Lightweight-Laptop-LT-AC-0162-CUK-002) if you want something more portable. It also has a larger SSD.
  
  For more options you can check this [list of laptops for general use] (https://shopineer.com/laptops/top-lists/best-laptops-for-general-use).

https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-Aluminum-1-Gigabit-Compatible-ChromeBook/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E

They very much do

Devices are increasingly less durable and repairable yes...but how many people buy a hobart mixer over a kitchenaid mixer? You can't just make things more repairable with more durability for the same price/form factor.

Either it's a vast conspiracy in which fairphone, google's project ara, the overall trend in the industry all simultaneously are colluding to make things less repairable and less upgradeable OOOOOOOOOOR maybe that's just what makes the most sense.

Laptops used to be literally double the size they are now, so of course to get them so much slimmer they had to make them less modular.

Wow ifixit has a battery repair kit for the macbook retina...it's a savings of 80 bucks and only like 3 hours of your time...such savings. Or alternatively https://c.slashgear.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/macbook-guts-600x3701-600x370.png how do you think you could repair this?

The designs don't get smaller and more integrated to screw people over trying to repair devices, they get smaller and more integrated to lower manufacturer cost and improve profile. Outside of cracked screens and replacing batteries (which is priced reasonably, as most shops use non-OEM batteries if they're significantly cheaper than apple) who really has their camera module go bad? Or wants to upgrade their 3.5mm jack.

Honestly from the sounds of it android is becoming as locked down as apple. Electronic fuses that trip and remove all warranty support. Locked down bootloaders. Apps not working if you're rooted. I used to do that when I was on the Android train, and still support that, but in general the security concerns (banking on your phone etc.) make that a non-starter for most people.

You've worked for companies that don't let you use wifi to access their servers, but are cool with you bringing in a random computer as long as it's via ethernet? What the hell lol. That's terrible security practice. I'd be waaaaaay more concerned about some person with malware on their PC hopping on our network than some dude camping outside trying to crack WPA2 or something. Even if you did need ethernet https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-1-Gigabit-Compatible-ChromeBook/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E boom 20 bucks and you'll never have to care again. I bet fewer than 1% of macbook users actually end up needing it.

If the vast majority of people don't have a need for X, while it might suck for me personally to have it eliminated, I understand why it's being done. I also understand if my needs are less mainstream I'm going to need to pay more $$$ to afford it.

That's why I have a kitchenaid professional instead of an artisan mini, and I may upgrade to an absurd 2,000 dollar hobart. Mainstream products cater to mainstream audiences at mainstream prices.

Redditors want big phones with a big removable battery and removable storage and a headphone jack. But what about the average customer? Who is more in tune with the average customer, the largest marketing/tech companies in the world that sell billions of dollars of phones a year, or some random redditors?

I'll let you in on a secret. Consumers are voting with their wallets. They're buying the iPhone 7, and the many other android phones without a jack. Once Samsung makes their W1 competitor, it too will eliminate the headphone jack.

Anyway we'll see. I really doubt we'll see a comeback of the 3.5mm jack once Android OEMs figure out an alternative to the W1. For now though I think the dramatic expansion of bluetooth device is telling that consumers are moving in a bluetooth direction.

Or, you know, just this:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-1-Gigabit-Compatible-ChromeBook/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E

USB-C can do many different things, most of which require some sort of accessory/adapter/dongle/connector/whatever you want to call it. I have this one for ethernet:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZZ6NW5E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'd get yourself an ethernet adapter, they're pretty cheap and way faster than wifi. I use mine for backups regularly. I got https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZZ6NW5E/ works well enough.

What USB-C NIC were you able to get running? I picked up an Anker one but was still unable to get ESXi to recognize it after loading both of these VIBs:

https://www.virtuallyghetto.com/2016/11/usb-3-0-ethernet-adapter-nic-driver-for-esxi-6-5.html

https://www.devtty.uk/homelab/USB-Ethernet-driver-for-ESXi-6.5/

I bought this one when Apple was out of stock for weeks on end. Works flawlessly with no drivers needed.

Okay, so the phone is mandatory in this scenario, got it. In that case you could maybe use something like this. That would connect to your phone over WiFi, then spit out wired ethernet on the other side allowing you to use whatever WiFi AP / router you want for all the rest of your devices.

Too bad it only does 2.4
I've been a fan of this for 2.4. It's a bit more money, but incredibly small:

IOGEAR Ethernet-2-WiFi Universal Wireless Adapter, GWU637 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018YPWORE/

There are always items like this, too. I've never used one, so I have no idea how well it works -- or doesn't work. Of course this assumes that you are getting a good signal where your DVR is located.

So I know this isn't a direct answer for you in finding the cellfi duo booster but it's a solution I worked out for my friend who lives in an apartment building such as yours with only wifi.

I picked up one of these off amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018YPWORE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_L13wDbPEHHXG3

And as long as your wifi network in the apartment building is just a simple you enter a password and it doesn't have a webpage for you to sign in (RADIUS or a captive login portal) then you can configure it to connect to the wifi network giving you an ethernet port that has an internet connection, he then plugged that into his cellspot and has had great results from what I've heard.

Again this isn't T-Mobile advised at all but its somthing I used to help my friend out who moved to an apartment with no service on the ground floor and no ethernet ports in his APT.

Something like this? (But hopefully cheaper) https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Ethernet-2-WiFi-Universal-Wireless-GWU637/dp/B018YPWORE

IOGEAR Ethernet-2-WiFi Universal Wireless Adapter, GWU637 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018YPWORE/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_8tijDbDZY993T

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Ethernet-2-WiFi-Universal-Wireless-GWU637/dp/B018YPWORE

A wireless bridge (like this) somewhat works around the problem, but only somewhat. Take the bridge and connect it to the WAN port of a router (that is not wireless or has the wifi disabled). Then, you can run ethernet cables to the router. The bridge gets an IP address from the college's wifi, then you get internal IP addresses from your router.

Very specifically note this will do NOTHING to help with wifi congestion issues for being able to connect to the internet (or anything on the WAN side of your router).

You can if you have multiple pucks, and that one is part of the mesh. if not you might be better off looking into a wifi to ethernet adapter, something like this https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Ethernet-2-WiFi-Universal-Wireless-GWU637/dp/B018YPWORE

Things like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018YPWORE/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_j3vCDb7ZRSMT6

What do y'all think of this?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018YPWORE/ref=twister_B0087NUEJ4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I can only guess that the users are using WiFi to connect to the network? If so then hooking the printer up via a Ethernet -> WiFi bridge (a lot of extenders do this too).

Ex: https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Ethernet-2-WiFi-Universal-Wireless-GWU637/dp/B018YPWORE

As far as I can tell the printer comes with Ethernet baseline (not an add-on), just not WiFi networking according to the spec I found. One problem you will have though is if you have each user using a VPN they probably wont be able to see the printer on the leased network you are using without some tweaking.

Best is a stand alone wifi box (IIRC, these are also called a wifi game adapters) placed in a weatherproof plastic utility box and run CAT-5 or -6 down into the underground area through conduit,

It's likely not ideal since there might be some restrictions your work has on the phone and because you'd be spending money, however, there are options like ethernet to wireless adapters if you cannot find a location.

Wifi to ethernet adapter.

sample adapter.

The are many other options. If you have an old router sitting around, you might be able to flash that with tomato or another firmware to convert it.

Hm. I'm actually really not sure whether it will fit. I have the same wifi card and for me it did not fit in one of my mATX builds - it fit just fine into the board but it would collide with the psu below. But it might very well work for you! Depends on psu height and the case, hard to predict. Maybe something to try out.

If it does not fit get a wifi ethernet bridge like https://www.amazon.de/Ethernet-2-WiFi-Universal-Wireless-Adapter-GWU637/dp/B018YPWORE instead. A router should also work, if you have one available.

Something like this might work

But running wiring to the printers is a better solution

Yes, and actually they do make them. Here

I use SMOS and IOGEAR Ethernet-2-WiFi Universal Wireless Adapter, GWU637

Draws power from USB port on board and connects to Ethernet port on board. 100% uptime for me.

Thanks, I think this is the route I may have to take.

Appreciate the help - do you think the model suggested above (this) would do the job?

As a phone company worker, I would have him move that modem for the charge and then invest in some high end "plug link" home adapters. Link [powerline adapters](NETGEAR PowerLINE 1000 Mbps WiFi, 802.11ac, 1 Gigabit Port - Essentials Edition (PLW1010-100NAS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01929V7ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9CiCybR7ZZ53T)

This question should be asked in /r/HomeNetworking not here but idgaf so...

A router can be used as an access point if you can connect them via ethernet, not wireless. That would be your best option. If you can't connect the two routers via ethernet then what you're after is called a range extender. This device will pickup your current signal and extend it. Here's one to get you started: NETGEAR N300 Wi-Fi Range Extender, Essentials Edition (EX2700)


Better than a range extender would be a powerline access point like these: 500Mbps or 1000Mbps

I went to reply to your question in r/networking, only to find it deleted lol

This might be an option
NETGEAR PowerLINE 1000 Mbps WiFi, 802.11ac, 1 Gigabit Port - Essentials Edition (PLW1010-100NAS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01929V7ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_N3JkzbVYNRJST

It's a powerline adapter, which aren't the most reliable things, but one unit would plug into your router and the electrical outlet, the unit with the antennas would plug into an outlet in your room. This would transmit the internet connection through the electrical wires to the unit in your room, which would transmit a wireless signal.

The NETGEAR PowerLINE 1000 Mbps WiFi, 802.11ac, 1 Gigabit Port - Essentials Edition (PLW1010-100NAS) offers WiFi as well as Ethernet as far as I can tell. The WiFi option makes a lot more expensive.

I added a wireless repeater that plugs into a wall outlet to solve the same problem. One end plugs in near my router and connects via cat 6. The other end plugs into the dead spot and works like a champ.

something like this should work great.

I have a detached garage and just installed a Wired Spotlight Cam last night. My Chime Pro didn’t work for extending the Wi-Fi to the garage. I instead am using powerline adapters. Works great.

NETGEAR PowerLINE 1000 Mbps WiFi, 802.11ac, 1 Gigabit Port - Essentials Edition (PLW1010-100NAS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01929V7ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_19w-BbG2AFJC7

Not all of them. There are some that have wifi as well.

I know powerline is not the most recommend solution but I’ve done a few for people in your situation. I’ve used the Netgear one and it’s been rock solid for every one I’ve setup. I always make sure the both devices are in outlets on the same phase of the panel and not plugged in to a power strip.

NETGEAR PowerLINE 1000 Mbps WiFi, 802.11ac, 1 Gigabit Port - Essentials Edition (PLW1010-100NAS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01929V7ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Xdk0CbJVGRP6N

Okay so the short answer is, you can get ones that do both, or just ethernet. I have been looking at the original one you posted, https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-802-11ac-Gigabit/dp/B01929V7ZG. This one has an ethernet port but also creates a wireless network, correct? It just doesn't state this clearly in the specs.

I'm in the UK so I don't know if this works in the US, but having bought four Google Wifi pucks I think I might have been able to get a similar result from Powerline + Wifi, which is about half the price.

The nice thing about PowerLine is that it either works really well, or it's complete garbage. As long as you don't have the type of AFCI breakers that mess with them, and if your outlets are on the same phase, they then to be rock solid. Buy them from someplace with a good return policy, plug them in, and see if they work in your environment.

I have two sets of these, so two that have built in wifi and two that are just the ethernet.

• Non-wifi 1: Connected to my router on the 1st floor
  
• Non-wifi 2: Cconnected to my wife's computer on the 2nd floor
  
• Wifi 1: In the living room, 2nd floor, ethernet port unused. Roku4 connects to this with wifi.
  
• Wifi 2: In detached garage/workshop, ethernet port unused
  
  The router and both wifi powerline adaptors are set to the same SSID and password, and laptops/phones switch between them as needed.
  
  You could get the pair I linked above, or you could skip the wifi part and just get this pair.
  
  I also had a pair of these that worked just fine. The only reason I replaced them was because I wanted to add the wifi capabilities.
  
  Remember that the default encryption is identical for every device shipped from the factory. That means anybody who owns the same device could access your network by plugging in to an outlet on the outside of your house, or in another apartment in the same building. Leave the encryption alone when you're first setting things up, but make sure that after you've got it all working and you're happy with the performance, you go back and change the encryption so that only your devices will work together.

Don't listen to Coreinkb. He is being silly. There is a way to connect your modem to something that will create WiFi. It is a weird setup, but it might work.

Here it is: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01929V7ZG/ref=twister_B01CVB6252?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Edit: No guarantees the powerline adapter would work. I'm just speculating. Your best bet would be to buy a WiFi router.

You can use an extender. If you have TV downstairs you can use a Coax splitter and the Verizon extender that uses MoCA to get full speed and signal down there.

https://www.verizon.com/home/accessories/fios-network-extender/

You can also use a Powerline extender in order to create a wifi network in the basement. This is slower as it uses the power wiring in your house in order to create a connection, but it is a little bit cheaper than the extender.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01929V7ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M7G1DbAM7MBJG

Only 50 on WiFi when next to the modem is troubling.

Make sure it's not throttling WiFi. You still may want to talk to Comcast about it.

For the WiFi to your room try a Powerline Adapter - one end plugs into the modem. The other end goes in your room. Something like this:.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01929V7ZG

The other option is a bit more expensive: A Mesh Network. You can get ready made ones (Google, Netgear, TP Link) or make one yourself by connecting a couple of Wireless Access Points together.

The Mesh Network would make WiFi better everywhere in the house, as opposed to just your room.

Wifi radiation patterns from monopole antennas often look like a doughnut laying flat. It could be the room you're having issues with is sitting more or less in the hole of the doughnut.
Don't get a range extender, they're absolute garbage - trying to repeat a weak or unreliable wifi signal is going to throw speed into the crapper and will probably be just as spotty.
I'd suggest an Ethernet Over Powerline kit with a wifi AP on the remote end like this one on Amazon.
It's easier than running new ethernet cables and still gives you wifi on the remote end.

We're currently using this for our setup which seem to me very similar to the Nano-Stations. BUT there is no external router per se' aside from the piece with antennas that plug into the wall. Would you think it's possible for me to just buy a separate router and plug it into the "Extender" and that would help anything?

The biggest complication is that the "Extender"/plugin piece does not seem to reach to the main house as it just won't connect. I'm not sure if that's an issue with what we're using or not. The less I have to buy right now the better.

There are many options that exeed gigabit speed. There are even packs that have an access point built in the recieving end so you can have the best of both worlds.

Looking around at powerline ethernet adapters it looks like you can get up to gigabit speeds with them, and seeing as how I have 100mbps up and down that should be more than sufficient.

Any recommendations as far as brand or model goes? Looking at Amazon I see this one and this one have high reviews. The Netgear one is probably overkill since the expanded wifi capabilities are pointless since it's only one room over from my router.

you are correct in assuming how it works.

a better option for you would be to get a powerline adapter kit

Project is mostly done - disappointingly simple.

We have cable internet coming in, 100mbs to a MTA modem/router. That sends out WiFi to the local room, (middle of house) but doesn't get the two far ends, the garage and master bedrooms.)

Directv is also installed, ran with coaxial everywhere. Nowadays Directv sets up a series of WiFi emitters, and each TV has a 'mini genie' box to pick up that WiFi and bring video/sound to the TV. This avoids the need for lots of cable drops, and lets you move equipment around easier.

Played with running internet through the coaxial used by Directv, played with running extra coaxial and using MoCA, running Cat6 and setting up drops, looked at Ubiquiti, looked at several other items.

Ended up with four of NETGEAR's Powerline adaptors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01929V7ZG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Plugged the wireless one into the router and wall socket, dropped a WiFi capable powerline AP in the garage, Master bedroom, a couple on each end of the upstairs bedrooms. Deliberately didn't name them the same as the main router, but otherwise they all have the same SSID and password as each other. Go anywhere in the house, and you pretty quickly lose the signal from one but come within the range of the next. Due to the house construction there are sharp dropoffs between rooms so simply going through a door is enough to force your device to switch APs.

/shrug Cost $400 and was pretty painless. The house was built in 1965, and they're running rock solid.

I tried a few different brands, ended up liking Netgear's the best. And as they're sold in sets, I have a handful of wired adapters for any rooms or areas that need a hardline. (One room doesn't have wireless capability, but now I just pop one of these in the socket and run a ethernet cable.)

I almost wished I paid more for a pass-through plug.

I was really looking forward to setting up Ubiquity through.

Oh are you talking about lag with a Bluetooth mouse? That's a problem with the Wifi card causing interference with Bluetooth on 2.4GHz networks. The only resolution is to replace the wifi card. I got an Intel 8260 for $30: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Network-Generation-802-11ac-Bluetooth/dp/B0197W86IE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485122666&sr=8-1&keywords=intel+8260

> 7265


I don't know what that is I was referring to the XPS 13 9350 Developer Edition


I have the Intel 8260 it will work in the 9350 as well.

The Z170M Mortar doesn't support an M.2 drive. It has an M.2_WIFI slot which can only take a type "E" M.2 card for WiFi something like this. If you're looking for a board that you can use an M.2 drive on, you have to look at something else.

Try replacing the killer wifi module in your laptop. I've heard the Killer chips have shoddy drivers. https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Network-Generation-802-11ac-Bluetooth/dp/B0197W86IE is a common recommendation

I just bought an 8260 as a replacement (8265 and Killer 1535 have MU-MIMO support which I have no use for). Took me 10 minutes to do it myself.

Amazon Link

My 512GB 950 Pro (NVMe) is great, but so is the 1 TB 850 EVO (SATA) that I use as an external backup drive. SATA-based SSDs are no slouch; they're still way faster than magnetic hard drives. Just get a good M.2 SATA drive for a reasonable price, and then when you do eventually get a new machine, NVMe drives will be cheaper and just one of several other improvements you'll get by that time (for example, USB-C/Thunderbolt 3, 4K hardware acceleration). Just because a newer technology exists doesn't mean your old system is any less useful.

When the 9350 came out in October 2015, NVMe was a new, cutting edge storage technology that had just gotten out of the data center and into the consumer market.

My 9350 is not without its own set of setbacks. When I bought my computer, I wanted one with 1080p (better battery life, and matte), 16GB of RAM, and Intel Iris (better integrated graphics), but Dell didn't sell such XPS 13 configurations in the US. The only way to get 16GB of RAM or Intel Iris was to also get a QHD+ touchscreen, which is glossy and has significantly less battery life. Also, just last night I found out that the 9350's USB-C / Thunderbolt 3 controller is a low power version that can only do 16 Gbps for data (Thunderbolt 2 speed), not the full 32 Gbps data speed that Thunderbolt 3 is capable of. And because I have Skylake and not Kaby Lake, I can't watch 4K Netflix or 4K Blu-ray (the new DRM requires Kaby Lake or newer). There are always going to be limitations on older hardware, but eventually you'll get a new system that will have those benefits.

Just upgrade the SSD if it would offer a meaningful benefit (in terms of capacity, or in terms of eeking out a meaningful amount of more speed from SATA 3). You can also upgrade your WiFi/Bluetooth module for better range/speed and MU-MIMO (enables MU-MIMO compatible access points to talk to multiple devices at once, instead of rapidly switching between each device like WiFi has traditionally worked). The Intel 8265 does that and is available on NewEgg. There's also the older 8260 which is very similar but lacks MU-MIMO (which your router may not support anyway). Or you could think about other ways to improve your overall computer setup, including things like a better computer chair. Good back support makes a much more significant quality of life improvement than NVMe vs SATA, and doesn't get outdated over time.

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Network-Generation-802-11ac-Bluetooth/dp/B0197W86IE
https://m.newegg.com/product/index?itemnumber=9SIA2F85A99807

The 8260 is only 25 bucks on amazon, not a huge investment and is probably what i will end up doing: https://smile.amazon.com/Intel-Network-Generation-802-11ac-Bluetooth/dp/B0197W86IE/

The upside is the xps 15 is easy to work on, so replacing it should be a snap.

Just say fuck it. As soon as there is a WiFi problem grab one of these

I believe most m.2 wifi cards will work in that slot. Most of them are compatible with both E and A-key m.2 slots.
For example https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Network-Generation-802-11ac-Bluetooth/dp/B0197W86IE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488246464&sr=8-1&keywords=intel+8260 (it shows both E and A key holes)

I can't guarantee this will work (especially because i have no idea how you would mount the antennas connectors without modding the I/O panel or using a pci-e expansion slot thing which would require pretty long antenna cables), or that it will recognize the wireless adapter at all. But it should at least fit in the slot.

I would definitely like to use this for a wifi/bt m.2, because I'm pretty sure this m.2 slot is running off SATA controller, meaning I wont need to use up pci-e lanes for wifi/bt. (SATA allows up to 6.0Gbps, which is faster than 99.9% of peoples internet connections. its more than enough for wifi and BT simultaneously). I'm not fond of the usb dongle wifi/bt adapters, they are often less reliable in my experience.

In the latest desktop PC I built for myself, I used this (m2 wifi adapter). they are usually used for laptops.

I'm looking into getting [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0197W86IE/). There was one review saying it worked under Linux out of the box.

Does a 8260 work?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0197W86IE/ref=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_0

It's not sold anymore, or the exact model isn't. They have a new updated model.. https://www.amazon.com/Intel-8260-IEEE-802-11ac-Adapter/dp/B0197W86IE

Intel 8260
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Network-Generation-802-11ac-Bluetooth/dp/B0197W86IE

After reading threads and some blog posts I decided to also pre-order an Intel wifi card to replace the out of the box Broadcom.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0197W86IE/

Edit: link

It would repeatedly drop connections while being in the same room as my router. I swapped out the standard Killer Wifi card with this beauty and haven't had a single issue since.

https://www.newegg.com/abs-computer-technologies-mage-m-ala109/p/N82E16883102699

This is a pretty good deal it is currently on sale and is $200 off. As well you are roughly only paying a $75 builders fee and as well you get an included 3 months of Xbox game pass for pc so you wont have to be paying for games. As well it comes with a keyboard and mouse. As well as glorious rgb if your into that. :) I would pick this up if I was in the market. One thing it does need is a wireless network adapter if you need wireless. Either an external usb or internal pci. Since it sounds like you are too afraid to hold hardware so I would just buy external network adapter. This one has good reviews. (https://www.amazon.com/EDUP-ac600Mbps-Wireless-External-10-6-10-13/dp/B01CCMUN8C/ref=sr_1_19?crid=4BUW6GNKLDHQ&keywords=external+network+card+usb&qid=1566443084&s=gateway&sprefix=external+net%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-19)

Ah, a two-in-one. Well majority of the people here will recommend running an ethernet cable for maximum performance. But, if you would like to try a wireless wifi adapter you could potentially get better speeds with it. Here's the link.

Also for a example for the wireless adapter https://www.amazon.com/EDUP-ac600Mbps-Wireless-External-10-6-10-13/dp/B01CCMUN8C/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=wireless+adapter&qid=1567290648&s=gateway&sprefix=wireless+adap&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyUzlLR1RCNFRRTVUxJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjk5NzYwMTdCVE41T1pITjQxTSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjg3Njk0MlI5WkVYUU5DTUtCWCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Something likethis is probably good enough. You can also adapters similar to this at Walmart

Essentially yes, but yea, 45$ is a bit much... But that's the scope of the idea that I'd want to do if able.

​

EDIT:: If it could be this price and just a printer USB connection, that'd be the dream of what I want to do.

I recommend this: https://www.amazon.com/EDUP-ac600Mbps-Wireless-External-10-6-10-13/dp/B01CCMUN8C/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=Wireless+USB&qid=1562678967&s=gateway&sr=8-4 For USB, And this: https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Beamforming-Technology-Archer-T4E/dp/B07NFMSGGR/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=pcie+wifi+card&qid=1562679043&s=gateway&sprefix=PCI&sr=8-5 For PCI-E

Ah nuggets, then I'd suggest either this or this

They are still somewhat cheap and should work perfectly with no issues :)

Price History

• Wifi Adapter ac600Mbps EDUP Wireless Usb Adapter 5.8GHz/2.4GHz Dual Band   ^PureLink
  ReviewMeta: ★★★★☆ 4.2/5 from 2069 valid reviews
  CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
  
  _
  Don't En Passant these deals.
  ^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fredditdeals%2Fcomments%2Fcze6cd%2Famazon60_off_edup_wifi_adapter_600mbps_promocode%2Feyxsbb1%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**

here



I get about 40-50mbs when In my room, you don’t need to install drivers or anything. Not a WiFi expert or anything but it works my needs

One of my Desktop machines is an AM3+ and I bought a $15 EDUP USB 3.0 WiFi adapter from Amazon.

It uses a RealTek driver: rtl8812au

I use Ubuntu and that driver is in the repositories. Before I connected the EDUP I used Synaptic to install that driver, then plugged in the EDUP & rebooted and it came right up.

EDUP Wifi Adapter ac600Mbps Wireless Usb Adapter 5.8GHz/2.4GHz Dual Band 600Mbps Usb Adapter 2dBi External Antennas.

Its been working great for me.

But you have alot of choices.

​

Optiplex (i5-2400/4gb ram/ 250gb hdd psu/ OS) 85

• https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Optiplex-990-MT-PC-Quad-Core-i5-2400-3-10GHz-4GB-RAM-250GB-HDD-Win-7-Pro/372475062332?hash=item56b93e683c%3Ag%3AfsoAAOSwgVBbyegR&LH_BIN=1
  
  4gb ram - 12
  
  
• https://www.ebay.com/itm/Micron-4GB-1Rx8-PC3-12800U-DDR3-1600MHz-Desktop-PC-Memory-RAM-computer-dell-hp/173596172714?hash=item286b2361aa%3Ag%3AuWAAAOSwB9FbyTSJ&LH_BIN=1
  
  
  Gpu: Rx 460 2gb - 50
  
  
• https://www.ebay.com/itm/SAPPHIRE-Radeon-RX-460-DirectX-12-11257-10CPO-2GB-128-Bit-GDDR5-CrossFireX/263998376730?epid=20024740734&hash=item3d77878b1a%3Ag%3AsMMAAOSw-eJbysmd&LH_BIN=1
  
  
  Total -150
  
  .
  
  .
  
  
  Extras (non essential):
  
  
• thermal paste to replace CPU paste.and GPU paste. :)
  
  
• mx4 is good, relatively cheap, non conductive and will last quite a while. 8.5 :) https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-MX-4-Compound-Performance-Interface/dp/B0045JCFLY/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1540018610&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=thermal+paste&dpPl=1&dpID=31cQ7xWo6aL&ref=plSrch
  
  
• I'd upgrade to SSD at some point. (240gb ssds can be found for like 35-40 on r/buildapcsales occasionally)
  
  
• adata 655 240gb - 38 https://www.amazon.com/ADATA-SU655-Internal-ASU655SS-240GT-C-Version/dp/B07DNK59SG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540017936&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=adata+240gb&dpPl=1&dpID=41rHM8vNLuL&ref=plSrch
  
  
• A USB wifi adapter is like 10-15 on Amazon
  
  
• (this one is 16 but has good reviews) :) https://www.amazon.com/EDUP-ac600Mbps-Wireless-External-10-6-10-13/dp/B01CCMUN8C/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540018010&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=usb+wifi+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=41alBdpBIEL&ref=plSrch

Other suggestions: Try a usb Wifi dongle - something like this: https://www.amazon.com/EDUP-ac600Mbps-Wireless-External-10-6-10-13/dp/B01CCMUN8C/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1542795665&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=usb+wifi&psc=1



or - can you use a network cable between the router and PC.

https://www.amazon.com/EDUP-ac600Mbps-Wireless-External-10-6-10-13/dp/B01CCMUN8C/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1542583319&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=wifi+adapter+for+pc&dpPl=1&dpID=41alBdpBIEL&ref=plSrch

USB WiFi Adapter

https://www.amazon.com/ac600Mbps-EDUP-Wireless-External-10-6-10-12/dp/B01CCMUN8C/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_107_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2WZ8YRGKCTJG5D16JQYA

I don’t know how it will work for you since you’re further away from the router, but a usb wifi dongle has worked quite well for me: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CCMUN8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NXTzCbKN51W8H

I’m not sure how its performance would rate vs having a wifi card, but I don’t notice any problems with download speeds or ping.

Here's a USB solution:
EDUP WiFi Adapter ac600Mbps Wireless USB Adapter 5.8GHz/2.4GHz Dual Band 600Mbps USB Adapter 2dBi External Antennas Supports Windows XP,Win Vista,Win 7,Win 8.1, Win 10,Mac OS X 10.6-10.13 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CCMUN8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7-UBCb7C6X9M8

Or here's a PCI-E adapter(best option):
TP-Link Archer T6E AC1300 PCIe Wireless WiFi network Adapter Card for PC , with Heatsink Technology https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016K0896K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PaVBCbS48ZYBK

Cheaper PCI-E adapter:
TP-Link TL-WN881ND N300 PCI-E Wireless WiFi network Adapter card for pc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pcVBCbRPYH5ZK

https://www.amazon.com/EDUP-ac600Mbps-Wireless-External-10-6-10-13/dp/B01CCMUN8C/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1535881480&sr=1-3&keywords=usb+wifi

this for example?

just asking, because driver support. any WiFi USB dongle should work, although you probably want to get one with an external antenna and 5ghz support.

something like this or that

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CCMUN8C/

600 mbps and gets decent 100MBPS in my hotel in the morning when it's quiet.

​

not bad for 14 bucks.

I use this one https://www.amazon.com/EDUP-ac600Mbps-Wireless-External-10-6-10-13/dp/B01CCMUN8C/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_tr_t_2/139-7745584-7699347?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WW69QYAFHCPRBY5DQQHE I've been using for 5 months and it easy to install but i believe most of usb wifi adapter do not have full bar wifi connection.

https://www.amazon.com/ask/questions/asin/B01CCMUN8C/3/ref=ask_ql_psf_ql_hza?isAnswered=true

​

Do all USB internets work with any PC that has a USB drive? Do I need certain ones for certain mobos? Will the above work for just an ordinary PC?

This is the usb adapter I use. It's cheap and the problem definitely could lie there, but I wasn't having the weird 60 second issue when using the old router.

I also took an old laptop and tested the new network with pingplotter, and while I'm not noticing any packet loss, I am getting spikes in ping every 1 minute 5 seconds.

This does not support Bluetooth as that would cost a little more than your price range.


Amazon Link

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CCMUN8C?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title

Sorry, try that one.

Yes, that one has dual m.2 support.

This is the one I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CCMUN8C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looks like its only USB 2.0? That's probably my problem. What PCIe card would you recommend?

Yeah, I know it's not a popular opinion but I feel that my logic is sound. As far as I can tel, the only reason people go PCIe is because of the speed difference between PCIe and USB.

The Gigabyte should be fine, I have my preferences but I really don't think that you're going to notice a difference. I've personally had good experiences with TP-Link adapters like this one. I haven't personally used this one but I'm a fan of Alfa products.

thanks again. so spending just $17 will really improve my speeds? i figured you were going to link me some really expensive hardware

this is the one i have right now

Typically if your USB wireless adapter functions and your network sucks... It's not a safe bet to assume correlation causation with drivers and updates. It's typically your home network.

Consider looking into Ubiquiti's line of UNIFI products. Or you can find your own brand you may prefer which sell "Access Points". Then I would wire all access points to a central area.

You haven't told us how large your house may be or what physical barriers you may have..



If you really believe it's your USB wireless hardware that may be the source of the issue, I would heavily recommend something like this ALFA NETWORKS RT2800 USB Iteration.It should be natively supported across most distributions.

Good luck. Reply if you have any questions.

The Intel 8260 is actually way cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-8260-IEEE-802-11ac-Adapter/dp/B0197W86IE and still a few bucks cheaper after adding one of this PCIe mini to PCIe adaptor (with antena):https://www.amazon.com/Allytech-Wireless-Network-Ethernet-Converter/dp/B00SMLYKI2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503694854&sr=8-3&keywords=Mini-PCIe+to+PCIe+Adapter

https://www.amazon.com/Fenvi-Wireless-Converter-wireless-included/dp/B0144KJJ7Q/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1503694854&sr=8-5&keywords=Mini-PCIe+to+PCIe+Adapter

I've used this USB adapter before and it works very well.

If you have fast internet (Over 400 mbps) and a router that supports these speeds, then you might want a faster PCIe card such as this.

Is this one a good one?: https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-802-11g-Wireless-Long-Range/dp/B003YIFHJY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1467622581&sr=1-1&keywords=alfa