(Part 3) Best dash cams & navigation electronics according to redditors
We found 14,475 Reddit comments discussing the best dash cams & navigation electronics. We ranked the 3,305 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
A couple of ferrite chokes would probably fix this issue. They'll "choke" any RF coming off of the cable and stop it from fucking with wifi and bluetooth signals.
$45
https://www.amazon.com/APEMAN-Recorder-170%C2%B0Wide-Recording-Detection/dp/B07DLG9GFG/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=dash+cam&qid=1558305356&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Its the Blueskysea B1W. It’s one of the cheap Chinese models, but I’ve been really impressed by its performance.
Plenty of options:
Versatile: Mobius ($70-100 USD) (Requires separate purchase: Power cable or hardwire kit + Micro SD card + adhesive Mount) + recommended purchase Super capacitor - Good video quality, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. No wifi/cellphone app. - This isn't the best dash cam in the world, but it is one of the smaller ones. It was made for the drone world, and repurposed for the dash cam world. Lacks Cloud feature. - No GPS - Lacks G sensor (because it is part of the drone world)
Budget Dual Cams:
Last year's Flagship Dual Cams:
This year's Flagship Dual Cams:
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Just to complicate things a bit more: BlackVue 1CH dash cams can not be upgraded to 2 CH. They will lack the rear camera port, as the 1CH dash cams are physically different than the 2CH versions.
Thinkware dash cams which have 1CH/2CH versions can be upgraded from 1 CH -> 2CH.
Look around for the best price. - Standard copy pasta.
For $80 budget (cam plus microSD), just get this camera. It is basic for basic needs (covering your ass when it comes to insurance or court claims).
I promise I did your research, I've spent 6 hours and narrowed down to this given my cheap ass budget. Having to own it for 8 months, it's 100% worth it. I get great images, videos, emergency button works without issues, and I haven't had to reset the microSD either (some cam stop deleting footage on a loop - glitch). Also it sticks far harder than your bare ass on black leather of a convertible mustang in the middle of the day in LA - it will not fall or break your dash window.
Anyway, my two cents dude.
Wait, I'm famous??? Lol
And I was recommended the Apeman Dash Cam. I'm just not sure if I want to spend the extra $50 to get the rear camera as well. But I'm a bit tight on budget and have been recommended this one as a good cheap dash cam. It has great reviews, as well.
It's most likely not CB, it's probably HAM (amateur radio). Like /u/a_crazy_horse said, if you ask him, he will probably help you eliminate the interface, although he is not legally required to.
Your headphones and computer are a FCC Part 15 device, and must accept all unwanted interference by law, but that doesn't mean he's not a nice guy who likes solving problems like that.
Onto further diagnosing. Something is acting as an antenna for you, it could be the headphone wire, or any of the other numerous cables running into your computer. I'd start with ferrite chokes and see if that stops it. With the electrical wiring in your house being the longest wire that the computer is connected to, I would start with your computers power cord, then the headphones, but it won't hurt to do both.
In regards to other comments here, 4 watts is the legal maximum on CB, for amateur it is 1500 watts. Also, the police will do nothing for you. It's a waste of yours and their time to try. You can try the FCC, and they would probably tell you to talk to the neighbor first, which takes us back to the top of this comment. But ultimately, the FCC is responsible for things like this.
On a side rant, nobody ever speaks to their neighbors anymore when they have a problem, communication is wonderful.
I have both of these dashcams.
https://www.amazon.com/APEMAN-Recorder-170%C2%B0Wide-Recording-Detection/dp/B07DLG9GFG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=dash+cam&qid=1555423420&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&smid=A1FYYQ65E5PX24
Which is why I said "and a decent DAC". There is a market for higher-grade portable audio, as evidenced by dedicated external portable DACs and IEMs. Such a device could also serve those of us that want to keep all of their music on them.
> Macbooks already dominate the musician/DJ portable device market
Surely you see the distinction between a MacBook and an iPod for portable audio listening.
I was only recording in 720p. It goes to 1080p but because it's a two-way dash cam it fills up the memory card pretty quick. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0147R9PDO
I use this device! Highly recommend!
It's a GW1-C (link if curious: https://www.amazon.ca/Spy-Tec-G1W-C-Camera-Capacitor/dp/B00JJ3SQRI) )
I used to recommend E-Prance Mini 0803 or 0805 but it looks like they're not making them anymore. They're great little guys that you could hide behind the mirror and they were available under $100. These days if you're trying to spend under $100 I'd say trying this one.
Some other general rules for dash cams that you should follow:
And with AUX you can also finally get bluetooth, which is totally worth it.
I drive a early 90's toyota and picked up this bluetooth receiver for my car. Your stereo has to have 1/8in audio input(or an adapter), but it works super great and it's only like $23.
I have this one in my truck that I drive with ride-sharing for the added benefit of monitoring passengers: Vantrue N2 Dual Dash Cam-1080P Front and Rear Dual Lens Dash Camera 1.5" Near 360° Wide Angle Car Dashboard Camera Video Recorder w/ Parking Mode, Motion Detection, Front Camera Night Vision Effects https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WQ7K6C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dLuYAb5W4DR4Z
And this one for my car as it has a rear mount camera: Rexing V1LG Dual Channel Car Dash Cam FHD 1080p 170° Wide Angle Dashboard Camera Recorder with HD Rear Camera, Built-in GPS Logger, 16GB Memory Card, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LPV7G6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9MuYAb0PX2AA1
I ordered this hands-free mount from Amazon and it's a good one. Thanks to voice recognition I can say "Hey Google, load the TDOT Smartway webserver" and it'll pop up. And with Bluetooth, I can take calls over my car's stereo system instead of using my hands. If you have an older car without Bluetooth, you can add it for $18 with this adapter. I have one in my older Subaru, and it's good to go there. It has a surprisingly good microphone built-in, as well as a quick charger.
The Rexing V1
Tremendous reliability and great customer service.
A new model is out, featuring an in-built GPS and a rear cam, but it doesn't ship to India.
Hey, I got a dash-cam a couple of months ago and I had the same concern. I ended up getting this one because of its minimalist but functional design.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UUQD9L6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Its a capacitor style dashcam, so no worry of battery problems due to overheating (say if you live in a hot climate during summer) but the tradeoff is that it can't be set to record when you are gone.
Russian dashcams are why I bought one. Hopefully we can spread awareness so we start seeing more pop up.
This is the one I got. Note that this is the capacitor version. The normal one has a battery. I got this one because it gets really hot here and that would damage the battery. Battery version is slightly cheaper. Overall good for the price. It's the one that I see recommended most.
For everyone asking about dash cams, here are a couple of links that I think will help. They're really not very expensive and can be installed for free by you if you don't mind a little effort (or a wire to your cigarette lighter), or you can get one hardwired (with the wire tucked away so it's barely noticeable) for $50-$100 from a local car stereo shop. The good thing is they're small and don't really stick out like a GPS, so they're not really going to raise the chances of someone breaking into your car to get at it.
This is a wonderful review site for those of you who like to research things before buying.
Dashcam Talk Forum/Blog
Here's their best value cam in all black from Amazon.
Here's the one I'm using which is just a little more money but also a tiny bit better in quality (you won't notice a huge difference, I just like the style better).
And here's a 32GB microSDHC memory card that you'll need.
To address the question that usually comes up, they record in loops. That means they record in segments of a few minutes (usually 3, 5, or 10 minute files) and then once the card fills up, they start recording over the oldest files first. 32GB is usually enough space for 5 hours of recording. Yes, you can usually click a button if you record something (or get into an accident) that will tag the last file to not ever get recorded over. They do record sound as well. Neither of those have GPS but you can get some more expensive ones that do.
I'd totally recommend getting a dashcam if you're a driver in Houston as if there's ever an accident you're involved in and not at fault, now you have a very good chance at having proof that it wasn't your fault, which can go a loooong way with insurance. Also, you can capture stuff like op here did, along with you know, russian dashcam worthy footage on occasion. :)
Yeah, they should be required for our protection. I've been using the transcend 520, works great inside and out. Has infrared lights for night vision inside - Transcend 520 drive pro
Go for all BOSS BOSS audio master race. You get like 4000w for $20. Bump so hard that shit cray
Edit: On a less troll note, you might try something like this
Most case manufactureres skimp out a bit on the front panel wiring. There are old forum posts from the Windows XP era about custom fixes, which, like you mentioned, involves foil. Rear audio panel is usually not [as] susceptible to electrical interference, though.
Edit- some ppl say that ferrite beads or a ferrite core should help reduce EMI
It's the nicest head unit I've owned, but it still feels slightly dated. Weird shit, like there are two USB ports on the back and one is for iOS devices, and one is for Android, so if you want both you need to run two cables out from behind the dash. Even stock Chevrolet radios these days seem to support both out of a single USB. The interface is "meh", I don't love it but I don't hate it. The biggest thing I miss is a physical volume knob, but I would have had to get a smaller screen and I didn't want that.
Honestly the reason I got it is because of The Wirecutter's Review. If I weren't looking for CarPlay/Android Auto, I probably would have gotten a different one, but I love having Spotify & Google Maps in my car.
They're all teens, so probably some program AAA did that had parents install both a dashcam and cabin cam to monitor the driving habits of teens. They also appear to have G-Sensors monitoring the vehicle, to show hard braking and/or crashes.
Edit: One thing I didn't think about, there are also dual-camera dashcams that record the road and the cabin in a single unit. You could also simply get a dual-channel (dual-camera) system and mount the second camera in the cabin facing back instead of in the rear window.
You could use an FM transmitter that plugs into the cigarette lighter port in your car or install an aftermarket radio.
Might I suggest
Best $45 you'll spend.
I did this at first as well, but it bothered me not being able to charge while in the car. So I bought this. Only downside is that it can't invoke Siri, but I don't use Siri much anyway.
Yes, there is a version with a rear camera, I have one. This particular model has a GPS logger so you can pinpoint the location of a collision.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LPV7G6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apap_RthTF8tPaEhHZ
You're better off picking up a car "Rear view monitor" type deal for $36. It's probably the same thing, much much cheaper. Heck the buttons on the monitors look exactly identical. Note that these use the RCA connector so don't expect a hi-res display.
If there's one thing I've learned about the rpi, and other groups is that they're doing some serious price gouging on almost all of the accessories they sell.
I got this one and it's been really great.
This is a fairly common thing. You can attach ferrite beads to your headphones to mitigate this fairly easily.
Typically you would see a single bead installed at the base of the cable near the plug, but you may need to either install more further up or loop the wire through the same bead multiple times if it doesn't stop the music the first time. It also can't hurt to attach ferrite beads to all your cables on your computer/tv as well. Heck I ferrited my network cables (not that that helped me in my situation).
Rexing V1LG and a 128 microsd card are practically mandatory in this day and age.
Blueskysea B1W WiFi Mini Dash Cam Car Camera Vehicle Video Driving Recorder 360 Degree Rotatable Lens 1080p 30fps G-Sensor Loop Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0773FXVKL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GUycBbS0PKCBP
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLG9GFG/
Got that one to put in the loaner for the time being.
In my cars I have the BlackSys CH100B hooked up to the battery for parking recording. Quality is good but not the best, but the functionality is great. I did some research and it seemed like it would be the best fit for me at the price point. Have 4 of them between all my family members for 2 years now and no complaints yet. Make sure to get the right SD card though if you’re in a hot climate. I tried using a regular one and the video would cut out intermittently. No issues after getting the SanDisk High Endurance cards.
G1W-C has good quality, full HD and you can read licence plates. In daylight you could read ones of the cars going the opposite way at city speeds. At night it's obviously a bit trickier due to headlights of other cars blinding the camera. Reading number plates of cars going the same way is not too hard.
It also has a capacitor instead of a battery, so no dangers of overheating.
The downside is that the capacitor has just enough charge to save the last file and shut down properly, so just a few seconds.
Amazon link is just an example, there are lots of stores selling this camera. I got mine from China via Ebay, paid $45 in total.
Dashcam for insurance purposes.
Probably possible. Not sure if it would be worth it. A dash cam with motion detection and an additional battery might be enough to ease you worries. I had one installed and it makes me feel a little better.
These were taken from https://www.reddit.com/r/Dashcam/
Best cam recommendations
Best value:
Best value Dual cams:
Budget dash cams:
Budget Dual Cams:
Dual Cams:
modern one
I wasn't certain if we made contact or not.
Just in case, I wanted to pull over to make sure.
Dashcam is a Rexing V1LG.
The Yi is a good camera for the price and if you live somewhere cooler (England). Unfortunately, it loses focus in even mildly warm weather. I still think for most people the Viofo A119V2 for a $100 is a pretty good choice. I made a video way back that talks about some good choices. The only update I might make is switching our $60 general pick for the BlueSkySea B1W.
I got this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DLG9GFG/
I spent hour doing research and came up with a camera that was out of budget, so I figured "Amazon's Choice" outta be good enough in a pinch. Some settings took some tinkering (the G-sensor had to be disabled because every moderate pothole would lock video files until the card was full) but finally got it fairly reliable. I'm happy. :)
The day after I installed the it, a woman's car was burglarized right in front of my camera but the motion detection didn't trigger or catch anything. I was bummed; I could have been a hero!
I'm going to leave these recommended dashcams here for you when you're ready for it!
[Yi Dashcam @ 65 CAD] https://www.amazon.ca/YI-1080P60-Dashboard-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B01C89GCHU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523078644&sr=8-1&keywords=yi+dash+cam
[G1W-C - budget pick if you park outside @ 70 CAD] https://www.amazon.ca/Spy-Tec-Capacitor-Resistant-Recorder/dp/B00JJ3SQRI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523078838&sr=8-3&keywords=g1w
[B1W - adds parking mode & G-sensor] https://www.amazon.com/Blueskysea-Recorder-Rotatable-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B0773FXVKL
[A119 - best image quality you'll find under 300] https://www.amazon.ca/VIOFO-A119-Camera-Logger-Latest/dp/B01M28B92C/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1523078871&sr=1-4&keywords=a119
Front: Polk DB6501 $113.69
Rear: Polk DB651 $60.36
Mids/highs amp: Alpine MRV-F300 $138.69
Sub: Sundown SA-12 $194.99
Sub Amp: Hifonics BRX-1100.1 D $179.95
Total: $689 Rounded up, before taxes, box, and wiring.
polk db6501
Component | Recommendation | Price
---|---|----
Frame | ZMR250 | $38.00
Motors | SunnySky 2204 2300kv | $84.00
ESC's | MRM 12A Simonk | $46.00
Flight Controller | Naze32 | $22.00
Transmitter (TX) | Turnigy 9X | $60.00
Receiver (RX) | Turnigy 9X8C-V2 | Included with TX
Battery | 3S 1300mAh 30C | $11.00
Battery Lead | 16AWG Wire and XT60 | $2.00
Propellers | HQProp 6030 | $3.00
FPV Camera | Sony Boardcam | $26.00
vTX/RX | Boscam 200mW 5.8GHz | $40.00
Screen | 7" LCD | $28.00
Total | | $453.00 CAD
Notes:
I got this one and have been liking it. No problems with it yet and I can have it record 24/7 without having any battery issues.
Non shitty referral link
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XAV-AX100-Android-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B01MF9W0GU/
APEMAN Dash Cam 1080P FHD DVR Car... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLG9GFG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DLG9GFG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
That's the one I got, cheap AF
Not without an adapter. Some Minis don't have the package that allows for music streaming.
Does her car have a headphone jack, often called an AUX? If so you can buy one of these thingys and stick it on the dash. Unlike your #2 solution, it's always charged. Downside is she has to flip the radio to aux to hear.
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Bluetooth-Receiver-Magnetic-Microphone/dp/B0168GBMCY/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=anker+car+bluetooth&qid=1564611339&s=gateway&sr=8-13
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Bluetooth-Receiver-Magnetic-Microphone/dp/B0168GBMCY
I've been using this one for a while now and have been pretty satisfied.
I've been using [this one](AUKEY Bluetooth Receiver with 3-Port USB Car Charger and Magnetic Base, Bluetooth 4.1 Hands-free Car Kit for iPhone, Samsung, Android Phones and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0168GBMCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OgwTAbRJEDBP3) since last August. Doesn't have the cigarette charger integrated so I can connect it to the low power USB port that's built in to my car which frees up my cigarette outlet for my higher output dual port charger. Powers on and off automatically which makes using Bluetooth in my car pretty seamless.
Just pick this up and you'll probably still be able to use your external HDD without any signal interference issues:
https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Pieces-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B01E5E5IY4/
https://www.amazon.ca/Spy-Tec-G1W-C-Camera-Capacitor/dp/B00JJ3SQRI/ref=pd_sim_107_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=77H2Y05REZAN2MRRH01B
This one is really great for the price. There is also a black version without the chrome ring around the lense that is a little less eye catchy (FWIW I just leave the chrome one setup in both vehicles full time).
I would recommend the mirror mount but it does come with a suction cup mount. Just need to toss in a micro SD card. It's easy to hide the USB cable and run it to your 12v socket.
G1W-h
I got https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R3ABHXY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for my R56. It has been working great for over a year now. I can use my steering wheel controls and it shows the song info on the lcd display.
For the best quality dual camera systems you will want one that records at 1080p both front and rear, and for that there doesn't seem to be anything presently available for under $200.
For under $200 and of lesser quality there are these:
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Dashboard-Accident-Recording-Detection/dp/B00LAAVVOS
http://www.amazon.com/Z-Edge-Camera-Recorder-Vehicles-Included/dp/B010H0SL9O/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1464741278&sr=1-1&keywords=zero+edge+dual+lens+car+camera
http://www.amazon.com/AUTO-VOX-Rearview-Recorder-Micro-SD-Included/dp/B01B4EQQXA/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1464741380&sr=1-2&keywords=zero+edge+dual+lens+car+camera
http://www.amazon.com/Falcon-Zero-F360-HD-Mirror/dp/B00E56WY18/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1464741380&sr=1-3&keywords=zero+edge+dual+lens+car+camera
http://www.amazon.com/Transcend-TS32GDP520M-Drive-Recorder-Suction/dp/B0147R9PDO
http://www.amazon.com/Dreamkiller-Camera-Mirror-4-3-inch-Display/dp/B01ABEHKSO/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1464741748&sr=1-1&keywords=HD+CAR+DVR+Rear+View+Mirror
http://www.amazon.com/Toguard-G-Sensor-Reversing-Detection-Function/dp/B01DG8LL4Q/ref=sr_1_3?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1464741748&sr=1-3&keywords=HD+CAR+DVR+Rear+View+Mirror
http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Mirror-Camera-Backup-Recording/dp/B00WR6ZQTK/ref=sr_1_4?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1464741748&sr=1-4&keywords=HD+CAR+DVR+Rear+View+Mirror
I have never had a dual cam setup so I would not know what to recommend. You can take a look at the options I've listed and decide for yourself. As you can see, most of them are rear view mirror type.
Give the Transcend DP520 a look, it has both front and backwards pointing camera towards the driver. The CF-100 while it is a great dual cam, is meant to point from the rear window, and isn't meant to provide an interior view.
Blueskysea B1W
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0773FXVKL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_oJ8ESuTSxCNG8
The r/dashcam subreddit calls it the cheapest dashcam they can recommend. So I bought it. Wired it to the OBD2 with an inline switch.
I've got a 2009 AWD. I don't think there's a way of adding an in dash backup camera shy of adding an aftermarket unit, but the parking sensors have always worked great for me.
Bluetooth is for hands free calling only and not music. I've used this for over a year now and it's been great. It's all stored in my center console.
Mpow MBR2 Bluetooth Car Kits for Hands-Free Calling, Bluetooth Receiver/Bluetooth Aux Adapter 3 in 1 with Dual USB Car Charger & Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio System (HFP/HSP/A2DP/AVRCP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0739RGDFJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_n9poDbT0NKNK1
I bought this and I’m super happy with it.
Only thing is Siri is really muffled for some reason, but music is extremely clear, and I’m picky.
Since it stays plugged in, it doesn’t need charging. My phone pairs with it right when I turn my car on, and I say “hey Siri, resume podcast” and don’t have to touch anything. It’s nice.
Bluetooth is what you're looking for. I tried the same options as you and this is what works.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0769DXZTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_INeDDbNE0DA2H
That's what I use. Plug in the aux and the USB. Connect your phone to the Bluetooth and now you have all your music and calls through the car's speakers with a microphone for calls or Google assistant / Alexa. Also you can hide the wires and stick the controller to the dash for a more permanent set up.
Get one of these and one of these to connect to the tape adapter and you're all set. No charging anything or dealing with FM broadcasting.
I know it's a crazy hack, but I used that setup for years with my old car that had a tape deck and no AUX jack and it worked great.
I still prefer this setup even though my phone has a headphone jack (5T) because I can just get in my car and hit play. Don't even need to take my phone out of my pocket if I don't want to, though I usually use a magnetic dock.
http://smile.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459290714&sr=8-1&keywords=polk+audio+db6501 ..I've had these myself for 7 years and I love them. I have them and the db691 (3way 6x9) in my rear deck. The sound they produce is amazing, more so with an amp.
I'm /u/whitefeather14's friend. If it's solely for headphones and you're not looking to spend a lot, then I would strongly recommend something by Fiio. I have an older one, the FiiO E7. They don't sell this one anymore, but they have a newer one called the FiiO E70k. I haven't personally used it, but I can only assume it's like mine but better.
If it's a little more than you want to spend, then I'd look at the Q1. I've heard good things about these as well.
These are nice, because they double as a USB dac and a portable headphone amplifier. Which means if you're traveling or something you can plug your phone into it and still get the amplifier out of it, no need for a USB source.
If that doesn't interest you, then there's the FiiO K1, which is just a USB DAC, and does not have an analog 3.5mm input, only the micro USB.
Now, understand that any of these aren't going to be the greatest DAC ever. Sub $100 is pretty cheap for a DAC, and I'm pretty sure these are all 24-bit, with 32-bit being more or less the best you can get (There's some debate on whether or not you can hear a difference, but that's entirely a different conversation.)
If you do want something a little more pricey and nice, the Schiit Modi DAC and Magni amp are really quite nice. They also have a Amp/DAC combination for $80 which I haven't heard anything about, but Schiit is pretty good.
The one /u/whitefeather14 said is a PreSonus AudioBox USB. You probably don't want this, as it is primarily an audio interface for recording instruments and microphones, and isn't a dedicated DAC, though the DAC is pretty nice, and as a bonus has a 1/4in headphone out as well as two 1/4in outs for L/R powered speakers, such as studio monitors, if that's of any benefit for you.
As for the SMSL one you posted, I have also heard good things about that one, though it's a desktop unit and does not have an analog 3.5mm input.
Let me know if you have any questions, I'm happy to help.
Ever consider a powered sub? Like the infinity basslink or Rockford Fosgate https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZFBvzbVWXXRFW
They add lows without adding them to the car next to you.
[Formatted Example Response Post]
Component | Recommendation | Price
---|---|----
Frame | ZMR250 | $38.00
Motors | SunnySky 2204 2300kv | $84.00
ESC's | MRM 12A Simonk | $46.00
Flight Controller | Naze32 | $22.00
Transmitter (TX) | Turnigy 9X | $60.00
Receiver (RX) | Turnigy 9X8C-V2 | Included with TX
Battery | 3S 1300mAh 30C | $11.00
Battery Lead | 16AWG Wire and XT60 | $2.00
Propellers | HQProp 6030 | $3.00
FPV Camera | Sony Boardcam | $26.00
Recording Camera | N/A | N/A
Gimbal | N/A | N/A
Servos | N/A | N/A
vTX/RX | Boscam 200mW 5.8GHz | $40.00
Screen | 7" LCD | $28.00
Total | With FPV | $360.00
Total | Without FPV | $266.00
Notes:
I have the g1w-c https://www.amazon.ca/Spy-Tec-Recorder-Dashboard-Authentic/dp/B00JJ3SQRI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505660812&sr=8-1&keywords=g1w&th=1
Cheap. Very good quality. IF you're not happy with it too, easy to return with amazon but this has been the best dash cam I've owned. Can see plates easily.
VERY good Dashcam:
http://www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-STI_G1W-C-Capacitor-Edition/dp/B00JJ3SQRI
I have this one right here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ3SQRI?ie=UTF8&at=&force-full-site=1&ref_=aw_bottom_links
I've had it for a few months and it's worked without any problems. You set it up and it just works. Turns on when you turn your car on, off when it's off, loops in 5 minute pieces and deletes the oldest one as it records more.
https://www.amazon.ca/Spy-Tec-G1WH-Dashboard-140%C2%B0/dp/B00KZ0J452/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468877867&sr=8-2&keywords=g1w
I recently started using a Tune2Air and a phone mount with wireless charging that automatically grabs your phone (this one). It’s a fantastic combo. My phone connects in seconds and from there it’s exactly the same as having an iPod plugged in. Steering wheel controls even work!
It’ll run you about $130 for the two, but it’s worth every penny.
Ok so if you own these than you know that the earbuds meet at a hub. From bud to this hub the cords appear to be rubber and very flexible. Below that meeting hub the cord appears braided. The braided portion is relatively stiff and there are some users who report that it frays and/or kinks if repeatedly wound tightly.
I suggest you use the supplied carrying case and don't tightly bend the braided portion.
Now while these absolutely do not require any headphone amp to drive these things (a cellphone will easily drive these), I just for giggles paired them with my FiiO E17K that I use for my DT 990s and Sennheiser HD650s and they open up VERY well if not driven too hard.
This is my go to track to test any new headphones and earbuds I buy and the 1More Triples pass with flying colors.
This is a no brainer purchase if you are looking for sub $100 buds as long as you are careful with the cord.
May I ask what made you buy that specific model? Just wondering because I just bought my first dash-cam (waiting for Amazon to deliver), and I hope I got a good one.
There's so many out there that I didn't know which to get, so I settled on the Auto-Vox simply due to number and rate of reviews.
Your Sentra lacks support for something called A2DP.
Fun fact, bluetooth back in the day, was really only designed for very VERY low bandwidth, I'm talking like 768Kbits/sec, as a result it wasn't very good for streaming music through it, it also never was designed for stereo audio support, this was like early 2000/late 90s.
There never was a demand for it other than low bandwidth. Fast forward to smart phones and it was seen as a very useful technology for single channel audio (bluetooth headsets and such).
When it was implemented in cars back in the 2007+ model years, even smart phones really didn't use it for Stereo bluetooth yet, but the hardware was there for it to be supposed, and car manufacturers are usually about 3 years into development of a new model, so they can't simply stop the production line to put 1 new feature into the car, it would be a giant mess.
TL;DR, your car doesn't support stereo bluetooth. But you can buy an aftermarket radio that will replace the factory system if you want. probably will cost about $100+ or you can continue to just use an AUX cable. OR you can do this which will plug into the factory AUX jack and convert it to a bluetooth connection.
Sony XAV-AX100
Sony XAV-AX100 6.4" Car Play/Android Auto Media Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SYXTAb8EPE0QR
I've bought 3 of these so far I love it. It has Android Auto & Apple Carplay for those people who refuse to switch to android. It makes my shitty stock speakers sound really good.
[Sony XAV-AX100](Sony XAV-AX100 6.4" Media Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TmRzybWFCMVG9) would be my suggestion. Recently swapped my App Radio 4 for this and couldn't be happier. It's only crashed on me once, and when it did it restarted CarPlay itself unlike my app radio which would need the car to be restarted for it to work agin.
Rexing v1g,. https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B071LPV7G6/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_107_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SAA91RHTVJSQNM3EXJ8Y
Screw Lyft and whatever policy they may have about it (they don't) this is your vehicle and your security. You are a private contractor according to them, they can't tell you what kind of hammer to use.
I use this with a 128gb card and have been happy with it:
https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Drive-Recorder-Suction-TS32GDP520M/dp/B0147R9PDO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550783504&sr=8-3&keywords=transcend+520
I have a Transcend Drivepro 520. It has the "cabin" camera as well as the front facing one. Good if you want to drive rideshare. Also, the cabin camera rotates independent of the front facing camera so if you get pulled over, you just twist it and catch the interaction on video. It's not perfect (getting the video off the camera takes forever over wifi, for example, but you could pop the SD card out instead if you wanted) but it's done the job for me.
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Bluetooth-Receiver-Magnetic-Handsfree/dp/B0168GBMCY
i have one of these. they will route your phone calls to the speakers and the receiver is a mic. If u dont like the brand, there are a ton out there.
First thing you need is an OEM aux input
aux input
Then I picked up a Bluetooth module off Amazon and I have been enjoying Bluetooth audio in my '06
Aukey Bluetooth connection
Amazon link
I like this Bluetooth device because it turns off and on with the car and automatically connects to the phone. Plus it came with a 3port USB charger (one port is quick charge)
What kind of noise are you hearing? Is it only present when you have your charger plugged in?
Switch-mode power supplies almost always switch at frequencies far above audible, though there could be lower harmonics in the audible range. Are you listening to music over Bluetooth or with an aux cable/cassette adapter? In the latter case there might be some weird ground loop going on that causes noise.
In any case the first thing I'd try is a different USB charger to see if the problem persists. For phone purposes a linear charger would dissipate something like 7 Watts for 1A charging, double for 2A. That's quite a lot of heat. The "usual" figure of 500mA would give 3.5 Watts which is manageable.
Have you pulled the charger apart? Have any pictures or a link to your specific charger?
If you suspect the charger as a source of noise you could try adding a ferrite bead to the charge cable.
Try adding a ferrite toroid to the power cable. I had to do this in my car. Cleared the signal right up.
It’s caused by signal noise from the power line to camera interfering with the radio frequency.
It's a Sony XAV-AX100 You'll need this Metra Kit to fit the new stereo. If you have a Bose system you'll either need to bypass the Amp or get a line level converter. I started with the line level converter, the sound is better than the stock system but still not great. I plan on getting a new amp and speakers eventually. I just wanted bluetooth and Android Auto to start.
Most mid-upper level head units have the ability to plug in a backup camera. I think you'd be hard pressed to find a unit with Android Auto without a backup camera plug. Also, if it has Android Auto, you're guaranteed to have a USB port, as it's required, and all head units with the above mentioned features will most certainly have an aux input as well.
Also, I hear Crutchfield's customer service is top-notch. You should be able to give them a call with more specific questions.
Here are a few well-reviewed units I'm considering for my WRX with all of the features you listed:
Pioneer AVH-4200NEX
Kenwood DDX9903s
Sony XAV-AX100
This is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LPV7G6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uzd5AbGV8Y8TQ
And buy the hard wire kit to go with it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074PBPPPN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gCd5AbM6Z35YK
The thing's saved me $1500 and at least one other innocent driver $$$$ (he would have been found at fault if not for me providing dash cam footage to the insurance companies) when some idiot sped through an intersection and totaled his car.
Rexing V1LG Dual Channel Car Dash Cam FHD 1080p 170° Wide Angle Dashboard Camera Recorder with HD Rear Camera, Built-in GPS Logger, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LPV7G6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vw2yCbWGZD55B
• B1W ($47-55 USD)
One of the mods recommends this as the cheapest reliable option.
I have a Yi Dashcam ($45ish) that has done well in the Texas heat. It is battery operated, instead of capacitor, which is a downside.
this or
this
/r/dashcam sidebar has some other options and more information.
The recommended budget dashcams that offer Wifi include B1W dashcam (capacitor-based) and Yi Smart dashcam (battery-based). These two will suit most drivers very well and both are in the $50 price range.
Where do you live in the US by the way?
You don’t even need an expensive one. Get something like the B1W. There are even cheaper ones.
First of all, door speakers are not made for bass at all and that's probably why they are all blown.... The front speakers are 6.5 and the rear deck is 6x9. The headunit will power 4 speakers, so two front and two rear. The way the headunit does that is it has a internal amplifier. So for a substage you will need a external amp (depending on subwoofer). The RCAs on the back of the headunit go to the sub amp for signal. So for speakers, you said you have a tweeter mount in the front, so you will want a component set of speakers. Which means the mid driver and tweeter are separate as compared to something like a coaxial speaker. [Here] (http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ) is a nice of 6.5 component speakers. They are entry level but one of the best entry level. And for the back we will keep it Polk DB for all around the same sound, so [these.] (http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB691-9-Inch-Speakers/dp/B000P0R6KW) So with this setup you will have good clear sound in the front, and good sound in the back and should sound all the same, expect the front will sound better sense component speakers also have a separate crossover which filters frequencies so your speakers will play the correct Hz. Now about the substage we need some questions answered first. SPL (loudness), SQ (sound quality), or SQL (a mix)? Type of music you listen to? Willing to build a box? How much of the trunk space do you want to keep? Most, some, or "anything for bass bro" style which is none.
It looks like the stock locations can be easily modified to accept a 6.5" component set. Relevant threads here, here and a pic here.
This being said, the go-to on this subreddit would be the Polk DB6501s for the front and DB691s for the rear.
I'd spend the remaining $100 of your budget on sound deadening for the doors and rear deck.
These.
Received wisdom is that something like a Fiio E7 is the best way to go.
It provides a very good DAC and headphone amp, away from the "noisy" interior of the PC.
I've heard good things about the Rockford Fosgate P300-10 or P300-12. They aren't a tube per say, but a samll-ish sub box with a 300 watt amp built in. The 12 runs $250. https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=p300-12&qid=1563151399&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Here's two options:
A.)
sub and amp.
box.
Total: $166.03
B.)
amp and sub
wiring kit
Total: $209.79
You'll have to be thrifty @ $500, but I think you can put something together that sounds good.
I have a 5-channel amp in my truck with 4x 75w (only using two channels here) and 1x 350 w for the sub. It's plenty loud. The 5 channel is nice for simplicity, but doesn't leave any room to grow if you decide you need a bigger sub or something.
People talk about powered subwoofers on here once in a while, you'll find recommendations if you search. E.g. https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/
You might need to play with the sub position to get it to sound good in teh van (might resonate at some frequency in the back corner but sound better a few feet forward, etc. TBD. If you give it a few feet of cord, you can move it to the back fo the van when you''re listening to music ouside the back doors.
These are affordable and sound good: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANI3LAK/
https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KMM-BT322-Player-Bluetooth-sirius/dp/B07CNWRC65
I think you might need to spend at least another $100. My daughter has this and it’s pretty awesome as far as powered subs go.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B007AQ2W6W/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1520480494&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rockford+punch+300&dpPl=1&dpID=51gr0hNb2TL&ref=plSrch
I spent a little over $1000 for a phantom 2, a gopro 4 black, a 2 axis gimbal and a couple other random things like extra batteries and carrying case. The older model phantom 2 (I got mine on ebay) goes for a bout $550 with the remote and a battery but without the zenmuse gimbal. The gopro was $500. The gimbal was $50 from china and it works amazingly well. Just as good as the h3-2d imo. those three things are pretty much all you need to start getting some good shots. So for about $1100 you could have a very good aerial rig. If you're looking for fpv also you can find really god kits for around $300. I threw together a cheap FPV kit of my own with stuff I found on Amazon. $38 Transmitter/Receiver $26 Monitor $7 Antenna set $10 Gopro Video Cable $17 3s lipo
Here's my list in case it helps anyone:
This list clocks in at $325.86 but it also a setup for LRS including Turnigy TX/RX and building your own clover leafs. It's only $212.67 without the Turnigy TX/RX. You can build the same setup for 1.3GHz at approx the same price but hobby king doesn't have as big of a selection for 1.3 gear.
Here it is in america moneys:
http://www.amazon.com/RearView-Headrest-Monitor-Support-Rotating/dp/B007SLDF7O/ref=sr11?ie=UTF8&qid=1420562180&sr=8-1&keywords=7+inch+tft+display
Good for emulators on the pi as of their low resolution.
I've been flying RC stuff for a long time and built my quad - basically out of the ruble of other quads I have destroyed or upgraded.
There are now quads on the market that are ready to to aerial video right out of the box - look into DJI Phantoms.
Also check out the forums at http://www.rcgroups.com/ - there are a TON of knowledgeable people there.
If you are more...daring and confidant in your building skills look at http://diydrones.com/ or http://aeroquad.com/
I built my FPV set up with:
One of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SLDF7O/ref=oh_details_o04_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
One of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/18-x-13-x-6-aluminum-case-69315.html
And some black foam board I got at Michael's.
And the transmitter and receiver is: Boscam 5.8Ghz FPV System (TS352 TX + RX305 RX / 500mw)
With an upgraded antenna: Boscam 5.8Ghz Cloud Spirit Antenna
PM me if you need more info.
G1W-H, or if you're in a place that gets really hot and you don't want to deal with batteries exploding, G1W-C.
I used to use a GoPro but it gets too hot and has too short a recording time. And you have to manually turn it on and off. Not to mention the theft factor since they're so popular.
Get a G1W-C on Amazon from SpyTec. Video quality is superior to GoPro, IMO, though audio is worse. You turn your car on, it turns on, turn your car off, it turns off. Automatic overwriting. Set it and forget it. You can even hard wire it for 24/7 recording.
I use this one works alright.
https://www.amazon.ca/Spy-Tec-G1W-C-Camera-Capacitor/dp/B00JJ3SQRI
Here's one from a known reputable seller.
http://www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-STI_G1W-C-Capacitor-Dashcam/dp/B00JJ3SQRI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1453177131&sr=8-2&keywords=G1W-C
This model has the capacitor which is generally preferred over battery.
I have a [Spy Tec STI_G1W-C Full HD 1080P Capacitor Edition Dashcam] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ3SQRI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and it takes just a quick twist to point it at the drivers or passenger window. It will rotate 360°, the power doesn't run through the swivel fitting, it plugs directly into the camera body. On one of my cars the glass is more "steep" and you have to tilt it a bit to turn a 90° but it's good enough.
G1W-H $50
16GB Class 6 Card $10
I have this setup, works great. Terribly hard to beat for the price
60 bucks
Got one for my dad, and it saved him $1500 (and god knows what insurance premiums) within a month.
I'm looking at 2 budget dash cams: The mobius and the g1wh.
The Mobius fits neatly behind the rear-view mirror and seems like the most discreet option out there because of its small size. However it doesn't have an lcd screen if that's important to you.
I also like the G1WH because it's a bit cheaper but still has good reviews. It has a screen, however its not as discreet as the mobius and may not fit behind your rear-view mirror. But for 50+ bucks its a bargain.
Check out /r/dashcam or www.dashcamtalk.com for more dash cams. Theres many other options out there.
First you have to decide what type you want - battery or capacitor?
Capacitor ones are costlier but they work well under heat unlike the battery. (In Vancouver, I don't think I needed a capacitor based cam)
Then you can search for that type, I try wirecutter first: http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-dash-cam/
I bought this spy tec for 60$ from amazon.ca which is cheap but works great!
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00KZ0J452/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Price seems high atm. Bought twice little under $60 not too long ago
Take a look at XCarLink. People on Audizine have used it.
You can easily get bluetooth streaming with your factory head unit using a CoolStream or Tune2Air 1000 (if you have the factory iPod cable) or Tune2Air 3000 (if you don't).
http://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-Tune2Air-WMA3000A-Bluetooth-Adapter/dp/B00R2HZ1XU
Yes you need a vcds cable to get to the hidden menu. I don't know about activating Bluetooth through that, but here is what I use.
ViseeO Bovee WMA3000A Wireless Bluetooth Music Interface Adaptor for in car iPod Integration (AMI/MDI connector) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HxjxybA0RQD98
I used to use aux for playing music and recently I bought this bluetooth device which is special for MINI and BMW. It's bit pricey but very useful. I don't have to plug any cables to my phone except if I want to charge it. Also, you can use the bluetooth on your car for phone calls and this device for music at the same time. It also displays song info on the cars radio, if you have an iphone.
Edit: I use a cig. lighter usb charger to charge my phone since the usb on the car is very weak for charging.
I have a pair of Sennheiser HD 650's and a FiiO E17K Aspen 2 portable DAC.
Those two combined with the proper EQ settings for the headphones = fucking Nirvana.
That setup plus the FLACs from HDtracks is going to be my experience for the new album.
150 for an HD650 is a good deal and a properly amped HD650 is taking a huge dump on the HD598CS. But using the HD650 portable is not possible, due to its open back build and the poor isolation and high sound leakage that comes with it.
The HD650 is a headphone for desktop use only and using it with a portable amp does not make much sense.
If you really need a portable DAC/Amp and want to amp an HD650 the logical choice would be
___
Don't understand me wrong. The Fulla 2 will most likely work with everything you throw at it. But don't expect it to drive the HD650 while listening to Clair de lune with a track gain of +19dB
I went ahead and preemptively ordered this DAC/AMP, mostly because it's fairly cheap and has good reviews. I feel like I'm entering the audiophile rabbit hole from which there may be no coming back.
I just replaced the G1W in my wife's car with a A118/B40 capacitor. $100 shipped from Amazon: https://www.amazon.ca/AUTO-VOX-Dashboard-Capacitor-Internal-Recording/dp/B00UUQD9L6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467903549&sr=8-3&keywords=A118
I was not a fan of the G1W, it looks awful, hangs really low and blinds the driver at night since the screen turns on at power-up and you can't tuck it behind the mirror with the giant suction cup mount.
I installed the A118 last night, so we'll see how it goes.
https://dashcamtalk.com/b40-a118/
http://www.techmoan.com/blog/2014/10/26/the-a118-b40-wedge-dashcam-review.html
I have an A118C; stuck it behind the review mirror next to the remote starter receiver, and it just looks like part of the mirror, if you even notice it at all.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00UUQD9L6/
It's mid range for pricing & features but easy to setup / use.
A118C. Got it for x-mas. Comes with great reviews, and I love it so far! It's on the sidebar of /r/dashcam along with some other options, depending on what features you're looking for.
Not as nice as another person's GoPro though, but that's because the GoPro is a $500 camera, and the A118 is $70.
Here's the GoPro footage: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZfH6DHnGjw
I use a dash cam with audio, I have installed this in both my car and my wife's. I am not sure if it will help in every situation, especially with a criminal who knows how to manipulate the system but it's at least one more tool in the good guys tool chest.
I use the Transcend DP520 and it works great! Also has good night vision. It's a bit pricey, but WELL worth it.
Road incidents are part of why I decided to order a /r/dashcam . More evidence for liability, and gives me a personal incentive to be a better driver and not lose my shit at people since it's recording me too. I personally ordered this one since it has a front and rear cam.
Now, if only Amazon would ship the damn thing already; it's already in the delivery window.
https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Drive-Recorder-Suction-TS32GDP520M/dp/B0147R9PDO/
Get a decent dashcam. I have two of these in my car.
Or the cheapest, simplest solution: a Bluetooth to FM radio adapter that plugs into the cigarette lighter. They cost under $20 and work surprisingly well for both phone calls and music/audiobooks. Here's mine: https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-FM-Transmitter-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B07F2RTN5Z
I use this one. I've had no trouble with it and I love the clarity. The wire is extra long so you can tuck it into the paneling of your car and wrap it around to a power source. It looks really nice with no exposed or dangling wires. I also like that it automatically turns on and off with the car ignition so I never have to touch the camera. Just drive and forget.
I’ve been using this Bluetooth transmitter since April and it hasn’t given me any issues since
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0773FXVKL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm pretty sure my video editor is the problem though
Check this one out. It's the one I have. It has both a front and rear camera. Apparently it takes a specific kind of SD card like this one. Definitely glad I got mine as I do a ton of driving for work.
I would take a look at this.
https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Bluetooth-Receiver-Hands-Free-Isolator/dp/B0739RGDFJ
With a USB-A<--> C cable you can charge your phone, then connect via bluetooth to the adapter which will push the audio through the aux jack of your car. Should work way better than any Audio-->Radio transmitter.
Something like this is what I have:
Mpow Bluetooth Receiver Car, Hands-Free Car Kits/Bluetooth AUX Car Adapter 3 in 1 Dual USB Car Charger & Ground Loop Noise Isolator Car Audio System (HFP/HSP/A2DP/AVRCP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0739RGDFJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nFXIBbRHBC2B9
Powered by USB though a standard car DC port
Buy this.
Your call will have bluetooth. You will get serviceable handsfree calling, as well as the ability to play music when you enter your car w/o wires on your phone.
If you don't want to do a whole receiver install. I bought this about a year ago. Plugs into the auxiliary port, then you Bluetooth your phone it. It's also got an extra slot for charging.
TaoTronics Bluetooth Car Kit, Bluetooth Receiver, Bluetooth 4.2 Hands-Free Audio Adapter (Built-in Microphone, CVC 6.0 Noise Cancellation, 3M Magnetic Base, Air Vent Clip, Dual 2.1A USB Car Charger) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0769DXZTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HfJgDbAX5FGR0
You can either use a usb-c to 3.5mm adapter and go back to using an the aux cord or you could use something like I've linked below. Adds bluetooth functionality to your aux port. I personally use an fm transmitter (roav brand has been the best in my experience) but I know static can be an issue like you said.
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Microphone-Cancellation/dp/B0769DXZTV/ref=sr_1_13?crid=2JEEZRSN5A46A&keywords=aux+to+bluetooth&qid=1564523191&s=gateway&sprefix=aux+to+bl%2Caps%2C173&sr=8-13
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Bluetooth-Receiver-Wireless-Hands-Free/dp/B00O8FYUJA/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2JEEZRSN5A46A&keywords=aux+to+bluetooth&qid=1564523191&s=gateway&sprefix=aux+to+bl%2Caps%2C173&sr=8-8
My 09 ms3 GT does not have bluetooth from the factory, but it does have an aux jack, so I used something like this to add it
FM adapters have pretty crappy audio quality, especially if your car has an aux port already.
Something like https://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Microphone-Cancellation/dp/B0769DXZTV/ref=sr_1_8?s=wireless&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549639821&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=bluetooth+car+aux would be a much better option.
They have Bluetooth adapters for cars. I use one and honestly it works well.
This isn't the one I use a it same concept.
TaoTronics Bluetooth Car Kit, Bluetooth Receiver, Bluetooth 4.2 Hands-Free Audio Adapter (Built-in Microphone, CVC 6.0 Noise Cancellation, 3M Magnetic Base, Air Vent Clip, Dual 2.1A USB Car Charger) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0769DXZTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SR52BbY4C1DAC
The consistent dashcam voted best by /r/dashcam is this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Blueskysea-Recorder-Rotatable-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B0773FXVKL
I am happy with my Rexing V1LG. The camera is stuck to the plastic frame behind the rearview mirror and I placed the rear camera under the wiper.
It is a little bulky by today's standards, but it's discreet from the outside and doesn't impede vision. I have the hardwire kit, ran the line down to the A-pillar and used a fuse tap in the footwell fuse box. The front-to-rear wire runs behind the headliner and passenger side pillars.
I had some bad luck with the SD card. It ate through two of them pretty quickly, but the third card has stuck around for well over a year without issue.
Interesting, I'm using the hardwire kit directly into my fusebox with the V1LG. Might just be a Rexing thing after all. And thanks! My first submission after having this for a few months.
Blackvue cams are very nice. I run a Rexing V1LG and have no complaints.
yeah, I use this one: www.amazon.com/Mpow-Bluetooth-Receiver-Hands-Free-Isolator/dp/B0739RGDFJ/ works great. I haven't had the need for the grounding block but worth having jic.
I got this cheap option, works well. Will auto connect to phone on car startup, press play on it and will start playing audio. Has controls for next and prev. Also has a mic, but I don’t use that so can’t comment.
Mpow MBR2 Bluetooth Car Kits for Hands-Free Calling, Bluetooth Receiver/Bluetooth Aux Adapter 3 in 1 with Dual USB Car Charger & Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio System (HFP/HSP/A2DP/AVRCP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0739RGDFJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hu1DDbMR31Y17
Yeah you can charge and listen because it’s Bluetooth so it’s wireless! This is the one I got:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0739RGDFJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nls1BbY0Y3Q33
I have not used the mophie wireless charging car vent mount, so I cannot comment on that product, though it does look pretty neat if it works well. In case others comment and share a negative experience about that product, I wanted to share my setup for a few ideas.
I have an iPhone XS Max, so no headphone jack, and an older car, so no built-in bluetooth.
I use the iOttie Easy One Touch 2 Car Mount Universal Phone Holder to mount my phone to the windshield.
(I noticed you mentioned a vent mount, there are plenty of options available for that type of mount as well.)
Then, I use the Mpow MBR2 Bluetooth Car Kit - this allows me to play my music on my phone via bluetooth by connecting an audio cable into the Aux jack in my car and I can charge my phone using a lightning cable. I chose this model since it is powered via the car charger instead having to deal with rechargeable bluetooth adapters.
It may seem a little clunky, but it works well until I purchase a new car (I'm currently at 185,000 miles).
Products Mentioned:
iOttie Easy One Touch 2 Car Mount Universal Phone Holder for iPhone X 8/8 Plus 7 7 Plus 6s Plus 6s 6 SE Samsung Galaxy S9 S9 Plus S8 Plus S8 Edge S7 S6 Note 8 5 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JRGOKQ8/
Mpow MBR2 Bluetooth Car Kits for Hands-Free Calling, Bluetooth Receiver/Bluetooth Aux Adapter 3 in 1 with Dual USB Car Charger & Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio System (HFP/HSP/A2DP/AVRCP) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0739RGDFJ/
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Here's what I installed on my factory unit on my Mach to play tunes via my iPhone X + Spotify:
iSimple PXDX universal aux input + iSimple PXHFD3 harness for Ford + Mpow Bluetooth receiver/adapter + CD Player Phone Mount
I did upgrade the cig adapter from the Mpow unit to a double Anker unit so I can charge my phone at the same time.
All of this was super simple to install.
For some reason peripherals plugged into my cig adapter will stay powered on even if the ignition is off, so I have to plug/unplug the socket. I have to plug the lightning cable to keep my phone charged anyways, so this works seamlessly for me. Just hop in, plug in and my phone automatically connects to Bluetooth + my phone is right above my shifter for easy access/swiping.
Get bluetooth. https://smile.amazon.com/TaoTronics-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Microphone-Cancellation/dp/B0769DXZTV/ref=sr_1_6?crid=YXBBZY15TAGS&amp;keywords=taotronics+bluetooth&amp;qid=1564788035&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=tao%2Caps%2C163&amp;sr=8-6
For my 2008 Mazda 3 HB, I bought this Bluetooth receiver from Taotronics (Link ). So far it has worked out well and been more than usable. I would recommend it as it’s easy to install and use, and the sound quality is more than acceptable.
Get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Microphone-Cancellation/dp/B0769DXZTV/
I have an Anker Soundsync (similar but discontinued) and it's great, I can toggle songs without looking at anything. Only downside is it's a pain in the ass if your friends want to connect.
I had the same problem in my 2010. I found it to be bad even when it WAS working. I don’t have a fix, because I don’t believe one exists, but I can share my workaround.
I bought something similar to this this, and mounted the controls on the dash beside the stereo, and ran the cords along the trim and into the center console where it gets power and connects to aux.
It’s mostly unobtrusive, and far more advanced Bluetooth tech than was available 10 years ago. Biggest downside is you can’t make or receive calls unless the stereo is set to AUX (fine for me as I never really listen to radio or CDs when I can stream from my phone.)
The buttons on the puck replace the steering wheel buttons and can summon Siri to replace the clunky Subaru voice command interface.
Not perfect, but a far more useful form of imperfect than before, in my opinion.
I used the aux kit and added a bluetooth amp for 50 bucks.
Car connects when it turns on and can play music just fine without some bullshit FM transmitter. Cost $100.
All wireless and the voice works as well.
You wire everything into the armrest and I drilled holes for the transmitter placed just below the stick shift. Barely noticeable and I can switch songs very quickly;.
I thought I would be buying a double din setup down the road but I am very impressed with this setup so far. My phone can stay in my pocket all the music and calls work seamlessly.
I think if I did my speakers I would just add a 4 channel amp in the trunk and bybass a headunit all together.
Before I bought the bluetooth dongle I just plugged phone directly into the aux kit using it's 3.5mm. I thought the dongle would drop quality over the phones built in amp but I have noticed no difference and now it's fully wireless and has a built in mic for calls.
Here's my setup:
Aux Kithttps://www.amazon.com/iSimple-ISNI531-Automotive-Auxiliary-Infiniti/dp/B0072L7W7O/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=g35+aux+kit&qid=1571875449&sr=8-2
The amp- This one works great turns on and off with car.
https://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Microphone-Cancellation/dp/B0769DXZTV/ref=sxin_4_osp48-96dd736e_cov?ascsubtag=96dd736e-c0e4-4c96-99e7-fa0f3d21e869&creativeASIN=B0769DXZTV&cv_ct_id=amzn1.osp.96dd736e-c0e4-4c96-99e7-fa0f3d21e869&cv_ct_pg=search&cv_ct_wn=osp-search&keywords=car+bluetooth+receiver&linkCode=oas&pd_rd_i=B0769DXZTV&pd_rd_r=8d2fbcf6-71bf-405e-9764-04801f0a8240&pd_rd_w=D03Wj&pd_rd_wg=sXdZq&pf_rd_p=a23a388c-add5-49df-b293-a31ade89c6bf&pf_rd_r=1ZFRS8ED3NNK4AR3BD1X&qid=1571875483&tag=spyonsite-20
I really like the buttons on my Bluetooth adapter, if they would have added those to this device it would have been perfect.
https://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Microphone-Cancellation/dp/B0769DXZTV/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=bluetooth+car+kit&amp;qid=1555524900&amp;s=wireless&amp;sr=1-3
I ended up ordering this for my car: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0769DXZTV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I'm not sure what I'll do for normal use with earbuds, but that's not quite as high of a concern for the moment. I don't listen to music on my phone much.
Not OP but I use this one and its pretty stealthy behind the mirror
https://imgur.com/fH9oxTU
Buy a model 3, Tesla just released an update which enables the side cameras for recording during driving and parking :) /s
But I was also thinking about how to achieve this the past couple months. I would probably get another 750S-2ch or 900S-2ch and put the larger main cameras on the front and rear and the 2nd, smaller cameras on the side. Its pricey, but it would work and look fairly decent. Other options would just be buying two cheaper, low-profile dashcams like a DDPai or a blueskysea. The only issue with that is that the parking modes arent as robust as Blackvues, nor does it have cloud viewing.
Edit: Someone posted a thread about this setup: https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/4-channel-dr900s-installed-with-b-124-batteries-4g-hotspot.36822/
Hey buddy. I'm fairly new here just started driving for uber. Take a look at the recommendations they make on the right side bar here at /dashcam. I've been looking for a good one since last night. The transcend seems to be my favorite (obviously most expensive)@ $200 but I firmly believe you get what you pay. I wish there was a physical location to pick it up from other than Walmart (two that I've gone to have been completely sold out of all dash cams, not sure if I'm just unlucky) If you do decide to go online amazon has it for the low @ $149 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0147R9PDO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
Unfortunately next day shipping is $25 but that is still better than what reddit says and what Walmart is
Also, heres a review on it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z4HfYizRHiw. Please take into consideration that to upload the video the creator of the content had to sacrifice a little resolution, but it's still a very sharp image that you can expect to be even better when in your own personal use.
It plugs into the aux port and runs off a battery. You'll have to manually hold the button for about 2-3 sec to turn it on, but it'll automatically turn off so you won't waste power. I'd recommend it for cars that don't have Bluetooth connectivity. However, I'd stick with the stock Bluetooth that comes with your car, despite the audio lag imo.
If you prefer that it automatically turns on with your car, you can check this model out.
I have this one in my 08 Mazda 3 i Sport and it turns on and off with the car. It works great, with good sound as far as bluetooth goes.
it wouldn't be an FM transmitter if it plugged into the aux jack. It'd be a blutooth receiver.
I have this one and I love it. Works perfect in my 2007 Honda Fit with stock headunit.
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Bluetooth-Receiver-Magnetic-Handsfree/dp/B0168GBMCY
I have one of these and have had it for about a year now. It works pretty damn well if I do say. It only really controls forward, backward and hang up on calls and I would recommend a ground loop isolator as well.
No, you won't get audiophile sound or full steering wheel controls but it's a damn nice upgrade for $20-30.
Have you considered Bluetooth? If your car has an AUX (3.5mm, headphone) input but no built-in Bluetooth....
Here's a well-rated very small $22 Aukey Bluetooth-to-3.5mm device that would let you control Siri and music (skip song, repeat song) from a small paddle:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0168GBMCY
If you don't care about the Siri button or repeat/skip song, here are some cheap Bluetooth-to-3.5mm that work fine for streaming music for $2-$5, from US sellers on ebay.
And here's a fantastic Bose $70 one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NTUEDMY
If you have a 3.5mm jack, I bought this for my wife and it works very well.
I use this at the moment. Works great!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0168GBMCY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is what I have in my car. Have had it for 6 months and I've had 0 issues. 4.3 stars on Amazon. Pretty straight forward.
Plug in the power source into the USB adapter and then plug the 3.5mm jack into your AUX port. Whenever the car will power on it will turn on this receiver and search to pair with your phone. As long as your phone's bluetooth is on it will pair in the amount of time it takes for you to put on your seatbelt and get settled.
I look forward to your update :D Skookum as frig mate!
https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Pieces-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B01E5E5IY4/
Get some ferrite cores for the cable ends.
eBoot 20 Pieces Clip-on Ferrite Ring Core RFI EMI Noise Suppressor Cable Clip for 3mm/ 5mm/ 7mm/ 9mm/ 13mm Diameter Cable, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E5E5IY4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xHTwCbRC1B5SY
/u/wackyvorlon mentioned to the OP that ferrite beads on the power and signal inputs to the monitor might help, something like these:
https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Pieces-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B01E5E5IY4/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_bead
They're made to prevent high frequency noise from coupling into the power or signal cables coming into your monitor/TV. You might want to see if you have any on the cables coming into your TV, and if you don't, snap some on there. It might help alleviate the problem, but with EMI nothing is really guaranteed.
Cool beans :)
Might be able to improve results with the third party supply by wrapping the cable a few times through a big clip on ferrite like this https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Pieces-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B01E5E5IY4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543299320&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=rfi+filter&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A2C3AMRQC5GI7N
You can get bulbs that fit. They have an LED driver that the wiring harness plugs into. As far as brands, I've got no advice. I bought mine for cheap from some local guy that runs his business out of his house and I can't remember the brand.
Once your install is finished, you're going to want to check the beam alignment and height. You're also probably going to want to put ferrite cores around the wires as close to the LED drivers as feasible, or you'll get electromagnetic interference and your radio will play mostly static.
If you do your turn signals, you're going to need a load resistor (8 ohm, I think) in parallel with your lights so that you don't get a rapid blink.
Example of ferrite cores: https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Pieces-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B01E5E5IY4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=17U3NAHEZG6Q5&amp;keywords=ferrite+beads+snap+on&amp;qid=1557170122&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=ferrite+&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A2C3AMRQC5GI7N
You could try clipping a ferrite core to the ends of the cable, it should help remove excess RF interference.
Although, you'd probably have better luck switching to Composite A/V cables (if possible).
Try a better cable with ferrite beads.
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Hi-Speed-Ferrite-U023-003/dp/B008VOPCGY
Or get the snap on beads.
https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Pieces-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B01E5E5IY4
This looks like very strong switching power supply noise. It could be coupled into the SDR via the USB cable or received directly via the antenna. Where and what is the antenna in your scenario? Try turning off any number of electronics in the vicinity to see if it is a particular power supply. I use a USB cable with a built-in ferrite choke on it, and use extensions to get the SDR away from the PC. Getting the antenna away from the SDR will also help if the problem is coming via the USB cable. For lots of other wires like keyboard, mice, monitors, etc. I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E5E5IY4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s03?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1.
there are ones that do Android Auto, e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XAV-AX100-Android-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B01MF9W0GU/
There are three types of "Android" headunits:
You can't customize how it looks or behave, and you can only use the apps that are allowed to run by Google.
Sony XAV-AX100 6.4" Car Play/Android Auto Media Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ti5gzbYGHPH7W
Like I said love the looks but white backlight buttons kill it for me so either tint them orange
Plus for 400 you should be able to get 7" with nav and carplay etc in a pioneer Nex or kenwood
Sony XAV-AX100 6.4" Car Play/Android Auto Media Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QSVszb3541RSY
Get this instead.
I bought the Rexing V1LG. I'm very happy with it, and it was a great value for a front & rear cam. This particular camera was recommended to me by someone who's had their Rexing for 2 years. Supposedly their customer service is also very good if you have questions or issues.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LPV7G6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apap_BEamgQT9gZaxe
Rexing V1LG Dual Channel Car Dash Cam FHD 1080p 170° Wide Angle Dashboard Camera Recorder with HD Rear Camera, Built-in GPS Logger, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LPV7G6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wx30DbMAG8KXZ
I have this one. Very clear and easy to use
https://www.amazon.com/Blueskysea-B1W-Recorder-Rotatable-Recording/dp/B0773FXVKL
this just got delivered to me. 2800 rupees in all but it requires a class 10 memory card or above so take that into account. I bought this from a different seller for a bit cheaper but it had free shipping as well.
Other than that we have this one which is recommended by dashcamtalk as a good budget camera. If you have a high budget you can go for this one. If you are on a tight budget but are not comfortable buying from Aliexpress this one might be for you. Other than that Viofo A118, A119 are quite popular in India as well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLG9GFG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AGQvCb8WHN63G
This is the one i use and i absolutely love it, has a mode for whem your car is parked and it monitors surrounding and the video quality is really good
Pro tip... try a bluetooth to FM transmitter. I had one a while ago, and they are very convenient. The one below isn't the one I have experience with... just a generic one that popped up on amazon when I searched for it.
Bluetooth FM Transmitter for Car, QC3.0 Wireless Bluetooth FM Radio Adapter Music Player Car Kit with Hands Free Calling and 2 USB Ports Charger Support USB Flash Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2RTN5Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_n33WBb1TZ92NK
There are a bunch of FM transmitters that are only a little bit bigger than a regular car charger, and have different higher powered USB ports on them that may work for you.
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This one is from Anker, it doesn't have any specific quick charge standard, but it does have "intelligent" USB ports. Usually these do a good job of keeping things topped up.
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GJ7DHMP
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There are some other random ones with 2 USB ports and at least 1 of them is QC3.0:
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https://www.amazon.com/Transmitter-Ainope-Wireless-Bluetooth-Compatible/dp/B07DMHMRV5/
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Transmitter-Hands-Free-Compatible-Electronics/dp/B0771M35KW/
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-FM-Transmitter-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B07F2RTN5Z/
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And this one, the FM transmitter controls are on a gooseneck thing, but the second non-QC3.0 USB port is 2.4A, if you care about such things.
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https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Transmitter-Wireless-Display-Compatible/dp/B0761NJRQY/
If you can not fix the aux port, this might be worth looking into: https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-FM-Transmitter-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B07F2RTN5Z
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2RTN5Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QmqQDbTK8KE71
Edit: linked my charger for the car that has Bluetooth built in.... Oops
This thing works far better and is less intrusive to the cab, while offering fast charging
My girlfriend has a Kia Soul and I wouldn't recommend it for camping honestly. It doesn't really work well for the poles and such that he will have.
One
Two
Three
You can use any one, but just make sure it has Bluetooth 5.0
This is the one I bought mainly because it doesn't stick out to far. https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-FM-Transmitter-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B07F2RTN5Z
Dashcams are great. I really like this one that I've been using. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DLG9GFG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've got an extra one of these in the box collecting dust if you'd like to buy it off me. I have one in my car and it's been great.
This is the one I got
Pretty awesome video, and my charger was just long enough to wire it around so it’s not in view. Nothing fancy like phone connectivity or anything, but definitely great value for money.
Edit: I just posted a video of footage you can see in my profile
Do you have a cigarette lighter?
Check these out!
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-FM-Transmitter-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B07F2RTN5Z/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=imden+bluetooth+fm+transmitter&qid=1573002425&sr=8-3
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I got this one for my car and it works well. It does have the occasional static while playing music which can be a bit annoying but it doesn't happen 100% of the time. Just a thought!
Do you have a cigarette lighter? Here's a bluetooth device thats works as an FM transmitter....no wires. Also doubles as a charger and you can skip tracks directly on the plug-in.
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2RTN5Z/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_BsvdCbWNHH58R
Just get one of these. I have it on my my own 05 Camry
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2RTN5Z/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_dK-LDb9ZHVHF3
r/dashcam
I use the B1W which is 40 bucks right now. It's a popular cheap option.
> The Polk components are quality but really need the additional wattage of an amplifier to sound their best
I hear this a lot and the more I learn about audio components, the less sense this makes. Any type of speaker is going to sound 'better' with an external amp in the right circumstances. IE, powering them beyond what your head unit's amp is capable of.
But, component speakers aren't some kind of mystical audio unicorn. They're essentially the same thing as a coaxial speaker (separate drivers to reproduced limited bands of audio). The difference between a coaxial and a set of components is A) a better crossover, B) a larger tweeter, and C) separate components so that the tweeter can be placed for better sound imaging. These features aren't anything to scoff at, but they don't require an amp to function.
OP shouldn't shy away from getting a component set because they won't have an amp. Especially with the Polk db6501 available for less than $130. Those speakers will still sound good running off of the head unit's amp. Particularly if he doesn't have second front channel speakers installed in the dash/A pillar/sail panel/upper door already.
This post isn't meant to attack you personally, just questioning the conventional wisdom that component speakers 'really need an amp to sound their best'.
In my opinion, you made a mistake with those speakers. Those are some of the more harsh speakers on the market.
Not to mention that they don't even have a legit Crossover, they are basically coaxial speakers not attached together. for another 20$ you could have gotten the extremely acceptable Polk-DB6501 component set which has nice mellow tweeters, as well as a crossover that gives you three tweeter level options.
I know i'm not helping much by telling you that you got bad speakers, but thats what i suspect.
But, one other possibility is that you have some funky wiring going on... did you use the stock wiring? I'm not sure what the situation is with that car, but if if came with a separate tweeter/woofer component set stock, they may have some sort of crossover built into the wiring. You might try running some new wire and making sure they are wired correctly.
I have the 4100NEX too. Love it.
I went with an Alpine PDX-V9 for the amplifier:
https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-PDX-V9-5-Channel-Extreme-Amplifier/dp/B007VSXGOQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493233218&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=pdx-v9
Polk DB6501 crossovers for the speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ
My sub is the slimline JL 10tw3-d4:
https://www.amazon.com/Jl-Audio-10tw3-d4-Shallow-mount-10/dp/B00EJWSLBU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493233136&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=JL+TW3
The box requirements are tiny for the sub, and the bass is amazing! The amp is really small but powerful.
Sound quality is awesome with the top on or off. I got the bass adjustment knob for the amp to help with this.
Front speakers, I think that's all you have to replace currently.
Rear, handles all of my bass nicely, although I do have a shallow mount amp and an Alpine M500 in the basement for a rainy weekend.
Or buy a pair of door handles from a R53 that had the H/K package and get yourself these!
That's my pick. I would personally just buy the H/K door handles that have the tweeter built in, cut out the grill and set those tweeters in there however you please. I tacked them in there with a smidge of glue from a glue gun, then filled the rest with silicone. Haven't budged yet. You'll have to run the speaker wires through on your own though. I can post instructions for that if it's required.
Edit: Link
From my personal experience, I jumped from the Behringer UCA202 to an Audioengine D1 now, since I bought a set of Beyerdynamic DT990 Pro's.
I played around with a friend's setup, and he really loved the Fiio E7 at ~$60
Portable, good looking and can handle your cans without breaking a sweat.
Sorry about that, I thought I linked it
I use a (hefty) Fiio E7 but I'm admittedly a snob about fidelity. Consider a smaller amp like the E6 if you want something with a smaller profile.
I don't really use the amp because I find the max volume inadequate —I use it to hear more details in the music. Fortunately, a headphone amp will do both, but I feel like there should be a software workaround to increase the maximum volume, if you don't care for having an annoying extra dongle on your phone.
I have a Fiio E7- works perfectly with Linux (pulseaudio under Fedora, Mint and Ubuntu) via USB (no drivers required) and has dual outputs and is portable. Sounds is great and works fine with all headphones as well. I paid $69 for it.
Micro USB Host OTG Cable with Micro USB Power
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CXAC1ZW/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_fNeaub0DNF2KH
FiiO E7 USB DAC and Portable Headphone Amplifier (Black)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003N0XDT4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_FOeaub1EY7PQ2
I'm using these
With this
And I've owned everything from TB x41s, to the this headset and even astro a40/50, but my current setup (which I got for $170) is by far the best I've owned.
I'm a huge fan of Fiio for this
http://www.fiio.net/en
(EDIT: looks like their website sucks, but Amazon carries a ton of them http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-USB-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003N0XDT4 for example...)
Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt Powered Loaded 12-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EubfAbY7QGTG2
So I have a 15" Soundqubed 1200W RMS subwoofer being powered with a soundqubed 1200w amp. The sub and box are so heavy in my trunk, and I honestly don't really want to listen to it loud because it hurts my hearing.
I am wanting to go with a smaller and more light weight set up. I am torn between getting an under the seat Rockford Fosgate subwoofer, this one to be exact: https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-PS-8-Underseat-Subwoofer/dp/B00Y3WKUX8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522712591&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=underseat+subwoofer+rockford+fosgate&amp;dpID=51c8j4HS70L&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
But then I am worried it might not be enough bass, and so I was thinking about getting a loaded enclosure and either 10" or 12", something like this https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522712633&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=rockford+fosgate+loaded+enclosure&amp;dpID=51gr0hNb2TL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Right now I have 2 kicker tweeters up from, and a 6.5" kicker 2-way speaker 60W rms each in each door. They are powered by an amp and sound really good, I just need some bass to compliment them.
Any advice on the under the seat sub? Should I get a loaded 10 or 12 inch over it, and if so...the 10 or 12? Thanks.
This will be much better for your budget you just need a amp kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_0xPAub0K3B7YD
Oh sure I was honest in saying you will eventually spend a heck of a lot more. Yet my point is that too many people think it's too expensive.
Fpv shopping list for one on a budget:
(Do your own research next time)
Monitor
7" TFT LCD Color https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007SLDF7O/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_NxCXub0G1JF6N
$27 hook you TX and a 12th source and you have video.
Now for the good stuff...
700 TVL Surveillance Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GMAAJY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_zACXub1JMVWMM
$30 strip the camera out and hook it up to a 3S battery. Your video. This is your basic over priced $60 Sony board camera.
Now for your TX/RX:
1.2G 8ch video transmitter and receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M7TBAZG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_3FCXub0RC8NSF
$65
I'm at $120 here. All prime and definitely not the absolute cheapest solution.
If you don't have a soldering iron go to harbor freight and pick one up for $10. Get flux and solder for another $10.
Build your own antennas, I did. Lazy people spend $60 on a pair of antennas.
My point is this hobby can be a cheap or expensive as you make it. I'm tired of the misconceptions with "drones", the media portrays us as idiots. Yet many of us are genius.
Use your creativity and build something cheap or buy something expensive but make the hobby what you want to make it. If you lack the technical skill to build, there are plenty of alternatives just be willing to pay.
This is the monitor for anyone who cares
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007SLDF7O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I'm trying to be able to display a grayscale picture stored on my Arduino mega 2560. The monitor takes a composite video signal. How should I start? What library could I use if any exists? Do I need to use an SD card?
Thanks!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007SLDF7O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1420054002&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51340p0rfNL&amp;ref=plSrch
This is what I will be using. It can run on a 3S battery and is only $26 bucks. Has 2 inputs too. Cant go wrong: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SLDF7O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I used This monitor mounted on a pvc frame. I used a lipo 5000mah 11.1v battery. I use the GoPro combo cable (because I already had it for external mic/power) and connect it to the RCA on the TV. You can get a mini USB to RCA adapter on ebay for a few bucks. Hope this helps!
EDIT: I thought you said Hero 3... sorry! I don't know what kind of connectors the camera has on it. I use hero 3 cameras with my setup.
it's possible, but the amount of extra equipment you'd need would outweigh and outprice the cheaper LCD option i mentioned earlier. You can get a 7" lcd on amazon prime for like <$25 like this http://amzn.com/B007SLDF7O and hook it up to the boscam reciever. Power everything with a 3s lipo.
You know you want to video all the idiots on the road... it's cheap: http://www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-STI_G1W-C-Capacitor-Edition/dp/B00JJ3SQRI
http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-dash-cam/
Last updated Sept 28, 2015. The Wirecutter "best of" articles seem to be very well researched and very thorough. They select the G1W as the best, with the reminder to be careful not to buy a fake.
I'd recommend looking at /r/dashcam for advice. I have this one but there are probably better, newer models available now.
Good ones can be had for less. Its hard to beat the G1w-c.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ3SQRI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Paid around $70, decent IMO wish it recorded speed and other GPS info
So basically it's this bundle here? http://www.amazon.com/Recorder-Dashboard-Dashcam-Authentic-NT96650/dp/B00KZ0J452/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=undefined&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=Novatek+96650+g1wh
I 100% AGREE.
Ive used this cam the G1WH for 3 years.
It has recorded 60,000km of driving in temperatures ranging from +40 to -40. ZERO issues. I get 4 hours on a 32gig card. Its self records/deletes on 10min clips.
Here are examples of my G1WH in action
Dash Cams GTA
Kavens World - Dash Cams
I've bought this for myself and family members. It's pretty basic as far as camera's go. Meaning it doesn't have gps functionality, wireless or bluetooth connectivity, or speed recognition. It's just a camera. It can display the date and time when you set it too and it records footage at a decent quality.
It records in good quality, has basic functionality and will automatically record over old footage unless you tell it not too so you don't need to worry about clearing the video. Just make sure you pull your clip before it overwrites, depending on the quality and framerate you might get like 20-40 hours of footage on a 32 gb sd card. You need to buy that separately. I'm not sure if you can change this but it will record clips and save them in 5 minute increments. It automatically starts and stops when you power on and power off your vehicle.
It's a capacitor based camera, not a battery. A battery camera will tend to last ~5 minutes or so after it loses power, which means that if you're in an accident where it loses power it will continue to record. A capacitor will last much shorter after it loses power. Capacitors tend to do better/safer in extreme weather. If you have a garage and park indoors at work or you're vehicle is always sheltered a battery might be better. Extreme heat and cold will both affect the battery.
It also records sound, you can turn that on or off if you don't want recordings to have you singing in the background.
Take a gander at various youtube reviews. The people who review this shit do it for a living and can really point out the high and low points of cameras and guide you to what's suitable for your situation.
My setup
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00KZ0J452/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 (which i see is now out of stock, but similar models will be good to I'd assume)
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B010Q57T02/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00OZ5OIFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002KL8J8W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Been using it since March and the camera has frozen probably 3 times in total, I just unplug to let it die and it restarts fine.
Good point!
Looks like it's the G1WH.
I got a GW1H a couple of years ago, and like it. There have been a lot of new entrants over the past couple of years though.
I bought one of these and it's been working well:
http://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-Tune2Air-WMA3000A-Bluetooth-Adapter/dp/B00R2HZ1XU
The only problem is it's an either-or situation, you can't answer phone calls on the MMI bluetooth if you're currently using the adapter.
I use an adapter called Tune2Air and it plugs right in to the AMI. It works great for me with both android and iPhone (with wifi off). The track info shows on the dash and skip buttons work even with Google Play Music on my iPhone. It works more reliably than a Lightning cable, and the occasional hiccup can be solved by reconnecting.
I got it in amazon, it was under $65.
Here: ViseeO Tune2Air WMA3000A Bluetooth Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/
I can pretty much guarantee that a normal USB dongle wouldn't work at all.
This has worked great in my 09 A4
ViseeO Tune2Air WMA3000A Bluetooth Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mzv2xbSZSRG4B
https://www.amazon.com/Bovee-Wireless-Car-Kit-AUDI/dp/B00R2HZ1XU
Get a Tune2Air. Will allow 2 connections to phone, one for calling and one for music. I have it and it works great.
As to why it allows one but not the other, there are different protocols for calling and streaming with bluetooth - unfortunately your Audi only came with the options for the calling protocol.
I’ve got this Bluetooth adapter in my 2011 Q5! I love it! It allows the MMI to still control the music and works seamlessly!
[](Bovee Bluetooth Car Kit for AUDI, VW, MB - Music Interface Adaptor for in car iPod Integration (WMA3000A AMI/MDI/MMI connector) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dAJ8BbFR4MGY7)
Bovee Bluetooth Car Kit for AUDI, VW, MB - Music Interface Adaptor for in car iPod Integration (WMA3000A AMI/MDI/MMI connector) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mElDzb7W3ED13
I would actually recommend this one
OP - Here's a link to this on Amazon in case you are having trouble finding it. This is the only product that I've seen that accomplishes what you're going for.
I opted for a $5 version that doesn't support steering wheel controls or song display and will upgrade my head unit in the future.
I bought this ViseeO Tune2Air WMA3000B Bluetooth Adapter to stream music as mine lacked Bluetooth streaming. You can stream Spotify or iTunes and works really great.
Haven't tried it personally, but heard good things about this. https://www.amazon.com/Tune2Air-WMA3000B-Bluetooth-Streaming-Connection/dp/B00R3ABHXY
I feel your pain with the 2009 nav unit, you are right that installing another din will leave it blank along with limited options for all the other stuff that is displayed, error messages, trip computer etc. after a lot of research, found it is easier to leave it in.
I don't have one, but for stearing wheel controls everyone seems to like (this)[https://www.amazon.com/Tune2Air-WMA3000B-Bluetooth-Streaming-Connection/dp/B00R3ABHXY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493424282&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=mini+cooper+bluetooth+adapter]
on my newer r56 without nav, I gave up on steering wheel controls use the phone mounted to the cd slot via (magnet)[https://www.amazon.com/Twist-Mount-Aluminum-Silicone-Universal/dp/B01D4VG7BW/ref=sr_1_3?s=wireless&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493424706&amp;sr=1-3-spons&amp;keywords=magnet+phone+holder&amp;psc=1] and a cheaper bluetooth aux with microphone. call quality seems to be better, and as it is a lot quicker for most tasks than the brake / idrive controls, even the steering wheel can't change aps and songs as quick with phone mounted right on the cd player slot.
I bought one of these for my 2013 Mini
Bovee Bluetooth Car Kit for BMW and Mini Coopers - Android and iPhone Music Interface Adaptor for in car iPod Integration (WMA3000B USB / AUX connector) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R3ABHXY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tCqLDbMJ3M4XC
The steering wheel controls and title text display are pretty buggy, but the audio always works!
If you find something better I’d love to know about it.
I had a gen 2 mini with only the 30pin radio cable. This allowed my iphone to connect via bluetooth and then could access the music via ipod controls in the radio...
At $200 you don't have a lot of options for Spotify capable DAPs as you surmised. An AMP/DAC would probably be the way to go if you're looking to put a little more juice into your current IEMs. FiiO is definitely well regarded in the price range you are looking at. I think the next best portable amp I see recommended regularly is the Oppo ha-2 at around $300 new. Like I said, I had buzzing with the my E18, but /u/AV3Nguyen didn't. I've seen others [claim to have this issue](https://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/5386ko/fiio_e18k_gsm_interference/ too, suggesting that it has to do with GSM networks, so it might not matter to you either way. Otherwise the E17K is a perfectly fine option. You'd even have the option to upgrade to the docking unit if you wanted. Your mileage may vary with all of this, of course, since a lot of IEMs aren't very power hungry. You might not notice much more than a bump in your potential volume, but it will future proof you should you want to pick up something that needs a bit more oomph.
The third option would be to put the money towards a slightly better phone with the features you want, unless there's a reason you'd prefer to have your music on a separate unit. The LG v10 and v20(not yet out) have good DAC/Amps, so those might be options if your carrier allows, though I don't know how much you were going to spend on the phone.
I've got the FiiO E17K which can currently be found at $100 @ amazon.
It's great for my needs. I mostly use it with the desktop at work and with my Asus Transformer everywhere else. With the Transformer I usually deactivate the charging function so the DAC won't drain the laptop battery. As for headphones, I have the ATH-MSR7.
I don't really like using it with my phone as I find it quite uncomfortable to carry around both the phone and the DAC/AMP. And this is regardless of the size of it, it's just having two things with me... Meh, don't like. And the phone output from my Nexus 5 is more than decent (that's also because my headphones are very easy to drive, only 35ohm).
What I really like about this DAC/AMP is that it has a small equalization thingie (not like most of the devices which usually just have a bass boost switch). It provides +/- 10db of bass and treble in steps of 2db. For some reason, tweaking the EQ from the DAC instead of the PC player sounds better (maybe I'm just bad at EQ-ing). It also has two gain steps +6db and +12db. The overall build quality is great in my opinion. Only the volume scroll feels strange sometimes but I don't really use it much anyway.
Now, you didn't say much about your needs so I don't know if this fits your headphones requirements but it's an option. I also don't say you should buy this. Read around, see what's available and if you have the chance go somewhere and test some devices. You might like something else about a portable DAC/AMP.
That's why I use one of these to listen to music at work.
> good alternatives to these headphones with good bang for my buck
I got a chance to demo those Sonys. Can't say enough good things about them.
Also worth looking into Audio-Technica AT-M70X ($223). AT's new flagship monitor headphone with an amazing sound. Definitely gives the Sonys a run for their money, especially with such a competitive price. I might even like them better.
I'm also quite fond of NAD Viso HP50 ($249). Just an incredible closed-back can.
>amp designed for headphone listening, that I can plug into my Macbook pro and that is hopefully less than $100.
Nothing really worth looking at under $100. Maybe Creative E3 ($99) or Topping TP30 ($99).
However, if you save money on headphones by going with the AT-M70X or the Sennheiser Momentum 2.0 (which are on sale for like $149), you could put the money you saved towards a better amp/DAC.
So if we assume a budget of, say, $200 for an amp/DAC, you can step up to something like Creative E5 ($189), Fiio E17 ($139) (it's even portable!), or Topping TP32EX ($159). Fiio probably makes the best offering in this range.
good morning. i'm no expert, but would it be a problem driving 250ohm headphones with a 600ohm amp?
also, i would suggest considering a more portable headphone amp. if you're going to spend on some nice headphones, there's no reason to limit their use to at home because you've only got a clunky headphone amp that is designed to sit on a desk.
&#x200B;
Fiio is well known in the headphone amp market, and they definitely have more pocketable products.
https://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E17K-ALPEN-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00RPD7KP8/
&#x200B;
don't know if the amp you're looking at has particular features you want.
Not a PCIe sound card, but I have a FiiO E17K DAC/AMP for sale at £75.
There's some more info in the thread I made a few days ago.
Never dropped below £94.99 new on Amazon.
I would not get one that cheap with some of the reviews indicating it stopped working so quickly. Below is a link to what I've been using for almost a year (purchased last June), in Texas where it is about as hot as Florida. It has worked great for me so far and it keeps the date & settings saved even if I don't use my car for a few days (losing the date and settings was a problem with other capacitor based cameras I'd used). It is less expensive than the Guardian brand models, night footage might not be as good as those but it is adequate for me. I feel this one was a good deal. But there are plenty of good cameras out there.
http://www.amazon.com/AUTO-VOX-Dashboard-Capacitor-Internal-Recording/dp/B00UUQD9L6?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
EDIT: So, while that above link is what I am using in one of my cars and I've been happy with it so far, there are also other options such as this one just under 100 bucks that seem to have overall better reviews and more reviews. So, this might be even better, but I have no experience with it: http://www.amazon.com/Rexing-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_sims?ie=UTF8
AUTO-VOX A118C Dash Cam. Nothing fancy. It was affordable and gets the job done.
Yeah, it's this one here. It's a few years old so there's probably better alternatives out now but it does the job
thx for the reply, from what i've been reading thats what a lot of people sugges for this price range is there any difference between this and this
I take it this is the one you bought?
I have a Transcend Drive Pro 520 and like it quite a bit.
I've been recommending Polk db 6501 components, as these are a closeout model and on sale for about $115/pr if you check the web. By extension I would recommend the Polk db coax speakers of various sizes.
The Polks play very loud with minimal power (92db sensitivity), so 40 watts is plenty. The only problem you may have with them is finding a sub that can keep up.
I'd recommend adding front speakers and skipping the rear 6x9 holes, at least until you've added a sub and other upgrades. The rear speakers can be used as ambience speakers, but it's simply not necessary and only for passengers really. You can even use fairly cheap, full-range 6x9's (no tweeters) for the rears.
Normally you spend money on the front speakers and even go without rear 6x9's
That being said you can also save a few bucks on a 2 channel amp to run the just front speakers.
Shoving a pair of 6x9's in the rear dash when you have a 15 inch subwoofer in the trunk can sometimes be counter productive when you can leave the 6x9 rear speaker holes empty to allow the bass to more easily make it inside the cabin of the car.
Considering I have a round about estimate of your budget this is what I would do:
Sub amplifier:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_48?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468928854&amp;sr=8-48&amp;keywords=3+channel+amplifier
Subwoofer:
https://www.amazon.com/E-12-V-3-D2-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B01CZ4M9RA/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468929161&amp;sr=8-2-fkmr0&amp;keywords=sundown+e12+d2
Subwoofer box:
https://www.amazon.com/Atrend-12LSV-12-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013MWT12/ref=sr_1_10?s=car&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468929607&amp;sr=1-10&amp;keywords=12+inch+subwoofer+box
Front speaker amp:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R150X2-2-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HY84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468929435&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=2+channel+amplifier
Front speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB651-Certified-Speakers/dp/B000P0PF9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468929479&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=polk+audio+6.5
or if you can spring for a few more bucks:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468929479&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=polk+audio+6.5
You will still need an amplifier wiring kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Lightning-Rockford-Fosgate-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B00PB4BEE6/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468929693&amp;sr=8-12&amp;keywords=amplifier+kit
Why do I recommend this setup?
For the money you are spending and the music you are listening to this will be the best value.
The 15 inch kicker subwoofer you picked is ok but the 12 inch Sundown subwoofer will play lower and hit harder in the proper box. Ive installed both of these subs in the past and the 12 inch Sundown is a phenomenal sub and the Kicker is no comparison.
Subwoofer box:
The subwoofer box you picked out isn't really that expensive when talking about the cost of a quality built sub box. However, the box you picked out is a small sealed enclosure. This will limit the really low frequencies your subwoofer could produce if in a larger box. A lot of the time it is better to opt for a smaller size sub in a larger ported enclosure for producing low frequencies such as rap and dubstep than a larger sub in a small sealed enclosure.
Amplifier:
You picked out two different amplifiers. The sub amp I recommended has a higher rms output rating and better quality components. The amp for the full range speakers has the same better specs. You also picked out a 4 channel amp which is a waste of money when you can get more out of a 2 channel amp. 2 channel amps can still power 4 speakers if wired properly. Although, I would suggest forgetting about upgrading rear 6x9's and upgrade the front stage.
Front speakers:
The front speakers I recommended are some of the best sounding speakers I have installed at their price point. The front speakers are the most important more over the rear speakers because that is where you are setting. I recommended the 6.5 because I believe those are the requirements for your car. If not then opt for the 5.25 of the same line
Note: I am a professional installer with 22 years of experience and have installed more systems than most people ever get to hear in a lifetime.
For high quality sound on a budget I'd do things a bit differently. Get a good set of component speakers (like these) for the front doors and get a 2 channel amp to power them. Drop the 6x9s you won't need them in the coupe.
A head unit doesn't have a very good amp and the sound quality won't be very good, even at low volumes. Two speakers running off an amp will sound better (and louder) than 4 off a head unit.
A sub will need an amp. A good sub with a good amp will be a great addition and will improve sound quality but you'll need to spend an extra $250+ for everything (Sub, Enclosure, Amp, Wiring, installation) for something that's decent quality. I'd leave this for now as it doesn't fit into your budget.
I have pioneer head unit, Polk MM651s and a Rockford 2 channel amp, the sound quality is great. I plan to add a sub in the future and replace my speakers with components.
Based on your post, I was wondering if you even needed a head unit. If you need is AUX input, I wonder i there are amps with AUX input or if you can wire an iPod/Music Player directly to an amp without the HU. HU's really don't do much these days, I like my Head Unit it has all sorts f features but really 90% of what I use it for is to play audio over Bluetooth off my phone. Hopefully someone with more knowledge can answer this for us.
Thinking on getting either infinity or polk or one of these in the search
Oh really? this is the setup I got
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ
Edit I also have the speaker harness
You'd get better sound quality putting a 2 way component set up front and leaving your rears stock. This is what I'd go with on your budget.
Headunit $230
Sub $60
Box $45
4 channel amp $135
Front components $120
Total is $590, so a little over your $600 budget after wiring and adapters. If you run this you would power your front components using the first 2 channels of the amp, and you'd power the sub by bridging channels 3 and 4. You'd keep your rears stock and fade your sound all the way to the front for the best sound quality. This would be a pretty nice budget sound quality system.
For the fronts you would just have to buy 6x8 to 6.5 adapters for your vehicle and mount the tweeters somewhere, usually either your doors or a-pillars.
I see. Do you know of any speakers closer to the $100 mark? Checked my bank I got $390 to spend.
Edit: What would you say about these?http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ
I found them on the suggested FAQ
You mentioned you had a blueprint, is that a universal one that a craftsmen could use that would provide the best output or is it only for a specific spec/size?
Will check out those components, thanks.
To add onto this component, I saw these Polks on amazon for a good price.
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497924801&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=POlk+DB+6501
Would these work with the Alpine amplifier?.. i'm assuming they'd work with the one you suggested. Also, I was told (idk if this is bullshit or not) that when you are running two amplifiers, you want to have them be the same brand... is there any truth to this? Not that it's necessary, but preferred.
I somewhat have a hunch that this place has some deal/discount with Alpine which is why they suggest their products so much.
ALSO is this the rockford amp you are suggesting? --- would get this one if the amplifiers matching thing is bs
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497925174&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rockford+500.1+amplifier
So you have these? They look a little more complicated to install. If that's not them, what do you have? Remember I'm an audio-newbie, so anything that involves an amp or extra wiring confuses me.
Im open to it. Honestly I was think these Polks in the front at the most. Like I said, theres no reason to go full audiophile since its just a truck.
These look pretty good: JBL GTO609C Premium 6.5-Inch Component Speaker System - Set of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANI3LAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W6jHzbECF9SVW
For a few bucks more, I've also heard good things about these: Polk Audio DB6501 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component System (Pair, Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_r8jHzbT4S09VR
I have had these for years and just love them, would recommend every time!!
Thanks for the info. Do you think the MTX amp would be worth it in the long run (like, would the Power Acoustik amp die on me)?
Also: I've heard that these Alpines are great speakers and I am wondering if it would be worth it to shell out the extra $50. Or maybe I should go with these Polks. You seem to be pretty educated when it comes to audio; what would your choice be?
Nothing wrong with those components... how about a pair of these guys and one of these so they don't meet the same fate..
They are 6.5 and I found these recommended in a thread with a few upvotes: http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ
Does that seem like a good deal?
A few reviews I looked at indicated that some kind of spacing is needed such as a mdf ring. Is this what is needed in the car?
Taken from a previous post
> I'm planning on getting the Fi Q 12 sealed w/1100 RMS Hifonics amp powering it and have these as my speakers
Polk audio man. These cost a bit extra but would definitely be worth it.
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1369987553&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Polk+audio+db
I'm not sure how the tweeters come out because I haven't changed my speakers over yet. In shaa Allah. But I do have a fairly high end set of Polk audio woofers and tweeters with crossover so you're not crazy for going that route. I've seen people wire in the mini amps like the one made by alpine which I also have.
So I'm pretty sure it's possible to wire in all that stuff. These are the speakers I have:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000P0R6LQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1465262462&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=polk+audio+6.5+speakers&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41lSW9Ti-gL&amp;ref=plSrch
Update- I picked up this system: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P0R6LQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Ill let everyone know how it is.
Question: Does anyone know where the hell the front most Bose speaker is? It is 3.5 inch but I legit have no idea where it is
Here's what I ended up ordering, and I'm getting this installed by a local shop, so I'll buy the dash kit and sub wiring from them. They will also be building a custom box for the sub.
Sub: Kicker 10C124 Comp 12-Inch 4 SVC (single sub)
Amp: Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier
Front speakers: Polk DB6501 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component
Rear Speakers: Polk DB401 4-Inch Coaxial
Head Unit: Pioneer DEHX6600BT
These fit in an 04 WRX with a spacer so look for speakers this size. Decent speaker too though a little trebly.
It's the FiiO E7 USB DAC and Portable Headphone Amplifier.
links for the lazy
http://www.amazon.com/electronics/dp/B0006NL5SM
http://www.amazon.com/electronics/dp/B003N0XDT4
This is what I have. A lower end model would probably achieve the same effect but I can't say for certain. However using thay with a micro usb on the go cable works great!
This one and that one are a good place to start if you want a dac/amp
FiiO E7. It will let you take it with you as well, for when you want to use your headphones away from the computer.
If your'e looking at portable amps I recommend this.
Edit: Forgot that it was a two piece set, this is the portable that goes a long with it, they work perfectly hand in hand.
That's still for a computer, though. Looks too big to fit in your pocket. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B003N0XDT4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1344016364&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Fiio+e7) however would be good if you really wanted to take your huge ass audiophile headphones on the go and have them sound good. More than anything, I find that my headphones (Sennheiser HD 380s) are just too big to walk around with.
But if the device used to play is a computer, then Arve ,your comment looks pretty awesome.
In that price range the only things I can think of is the FiiO E7 or E10. Those are both a DAC and an amp though, so either will more or less replace the E11, although you could bypass the amp in either and run a line to your E11 if you really wanted too.
Alternatively, you could buy the ODAC from JDS Labs for $150, which would be your best option. It doesn't include an amp so you'll have to run it to your E11.
You could probably also pick up an internal pci soundcard (I see the ASUS Xonar thrown around a lot but I know nothing about it) for much cheaper. But I'm an external kind of guy, and usually internal sound cards aren't recommended (due to potential noise issues similar to what you are currently experiencing).
This will be my second time typing this out, since I hit the fucking Browser-Back shortcut on my mouse.
I wouldn't recommend the Koss Plugs as a set of mixing phones, even while travelling. The clarity is simply nonexistant. My suggestion is just to use them as a second pair to check out your bassline before you finalize a track. For something more balanced, you might want to set aside an hour or two and drag your eyeballs over this thread over at head-fi.
As an off-the-cuff recommendation, Velodyne vPulse have gained quite a reputation in the under-$150 category. they have plenty of bass output, but it's much tighter than the Koss, no muddiness. They also get plenty of compliments on the detail in the midrange/treble.
/r/Audiophile is a great resource, as is /r/Headphones, but to save yourself from shame, I will tell you ahead of time, anything called a soundcard will almost certainly get you laughed out.
Puts on top hat and monocle, raising a cup of tea with the pinky out
>A gentleman uses a DAC with a seperate Headphone Amplifier.
In all fairness a soundcard is nothing but a DAC with a built-on amp, though the integrated amp circuits are terrible, in terms of audio reproduction.
You can get a DAC and feed an amp with it, or you can get a DAC/Amp combo, which is a popular place to begin, and is a great solution for a personal digital studio, especially if you use your laptop as a creative device away from home. The most recommended (for good reason) is the FiiO e7. It performes both the DAC and amplifier functions, as well as including an input jack and a battery so you can stick it in your pocket and connect it to your ipod/phone/whatever and increase the quality of your portable listening as well (This bypasses the DAC and only uses the amp). The only drawback to the e7 is that the amp is kind of puny. Mind you it is still more powerful than whatever is built into your devices, but it can leave you wanting if you have some high-end, high-impedance headphones. To solve that, you can either get a FiiO e9 amplifier to leave on your desk and dock the e7 to when you are at home, or you can pick up a FiiO e17 which is almost identical to the e7, but with more juice to the amp. You mentioned a speaker setup at home, so you would also want a FiiO l7 line out plug so you could run the un-amped output of the DAC to your speakers. Keep in mind, none of this passes as "Audiophile grade" hardware, but it's certainly (digital) studio quality.
All in all, an e7 and a pair of vPulse IEMs would set you back about $150, give you the low-end you need, a full-up system you could pack in your pocket while you're on the move, and also boost the quality of your 8400's, and whatever monitors you choose at home.
I'll get off my soapbox now. Hopefully that gives you a head start on your research.
.
.
.
^tiny ^disclaimer: I don't work for FiiO, I'm not trying to sell you FiiO stuff, I don't even use FiiO myself. They just have a great reputation, and market at a reasonable price-range.
I don't think ANY motherboard has a good enough sound card for headphones because you can hear every background noise that poor insulation involves (and most motherboards have that problem). The problem with dedicated sound cards is that they're most of the time geared towards pros and very expensive and packed with features you won't need, I think you should get a USB DAC if you're not bothered by the fact that you're going to have something outside of the computer's case, the advantage is that you can use it on every computer you own while it still works. The FiiO E7 is a popular choice because it's portable and cheap for what it does (DAC + amplifier), you can get it on Amazon or elsewhere. If you want to go for a dedicated sound card, browse head-fi.org, I cannot really help you with that, I've never found them that interesting.
EDIT: btw, to answer your question about headphones, try the Sennheiser HD-25s if you want to get good isolation (so that you can use it in public and not bother anyone and not be bothered too much), they're excellent monitoring headphones for the price and nobody complains too much about the sound AFAIK, the main problem is the clamp, they can hurt after a few hours and over-the-ear headphones are more comfortable by design. If you're really on a budget or want to expand your possibilities, get Koss Porta Pros, they're cheap and they're really good for the price (less than 30$ IIRC), or Sennheiser PX-100, these are both smaller and more portable open headphones. Good luck anyway, and don't make the bet of not trying any headphones live before buying, I never regretted getting my HD-25s, but I wasn't aware that the clamp might hurt that much.
Here's a possible solution. Relatively expensive, though.
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-USB-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003N0XDT4
Sounds like you need an external amplifier instead - something like the FiiO E7 should work: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003N0XDT4
Or maybe the FiiO E5: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P9EQH8
Thx for the fast answer. I took a look at the schiit magni it appears to be a very good amp for little money. The problem is I live in Europe (sorry for not being specific in my question) so the amp+shipping would cost me around 150 $.
So I took a look at some over amps and amp/DAC's . What do you think about the FiiO E7 Amp/DAC
http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-USB-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003N0XDT4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1382207136&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Fiio+E7
If you want an amp, the Fiio E7/E9 Combo is really nice.
I have a pretty cheap portable amp (Fiio E7) that I use when playing music from my phone. Works surprisingly well.
I dont remember the impedence on 598 but if it is low enough, which I believe it is, I would only get http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003N0XDT4/ref=redir_mdp_mobile I run this for my akg401s if however you ever upgraded to something higher impedance say sen650+ you could simply get the amp that that dac plugs into later down the road (have listens to this setup on 650s and it's beautiful). Amp I'm referring to http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004M172FY/ref=aw_1st_sims_2?pi=SL500_SS115 .
Where I found the stereo lacked in my 12 WRX hatch, was the bass.
I put a 12 inch Rockford Fosgate in the trunk, and let the speakers only run mids and highs. It has improved the stereos sound greatly and didn't break the bank too badly.
The only thing I don't "like" about my MKVII is that it didn't come with a sub. How was your experience? Did you do it yourself or have a shop do it? What sub unit did you put in? I'm 99.9% sold on This one
but I was going to have a local car audio place install it because I hate the idea of screwing something up or having loose, rattling panels (from being removed and reinstalled) in my brand new car.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518320964&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=rockford+powered+sub
https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B0058OENJ2/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518321247&amp;sr=8-13&amp;keywords=ofc+amp+kit
There isn't a better deal. Dead serious. For what you want to spend, that's as close as I see anything worth owning. The amp kit isn't a fire hazard and the sub/amp is complete shit. It's not amazing, but at least you have an amp, sub and box that are going to work together for under $200 and you can add a few extra bucks to get an amp kit that won't burn your car to the ground or corrode into dust in 6 months.
Both items should have a warranty since the sub is "Sold by and ships from Amazon" and, well, an amp kit shouldn't need a warranty anyway but it's sold by Knu via Amazon so it's as legit as buying from them. Which you could probably do for the same price since it's not eligible for Prime anyway and therefore you can cut out the "middle man" as it were and let Knu keep more of the money.
Might even been enough speaker wire in the kit to use to hook up the high level inputs on the powered sub without buying anything extra and you'll have the RCA interconnects for later if you ever buy an aftermarket head unit or end up using/needing an active line output converter or integration device.
What do I need to buy to make this subwoofer work with my mixer?
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=sr_1_1?qid=1563244767&refinements=p_89%3ARockford%2BFosgate&s=car&sr=1-1&th=1
I own this already but it's in my car & I might be able to salvage the cables used I don't think that's all I'll need?
edit: I see that it has an amp built in so I've got that covered but I still need a way to power it.
edit 2: I successfully removed all the cables from my car (what a fucking task that was). So I've got all that.
I ordered a P300 by Rockford Fosgate about a year ago. It's a powered enclosure and not a separate amp + subwoofer.
I had it installed at a local Radio Active and they tapped into the factory amp. It hits well enough honestly. I find I don't need a crazy amount of bass for small hatchbacks. I probably should have mounted it to the side because it does take up quite a bit of trunk space.
Amp
Sub
Box
You won't need a high level converter with this amp, but you will need a nice install kit
The sub and box go together, so I ignored "must come in box" because either you're installing yourself and you can put screws in wood, or you are taking it to an install shop who can do it for you.
If that is somehow really beyond your abilities, something like this will work. (still need a dedicated amplifier)
If you are considering the OEM Kicker setup, I'd look at the Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt instead.
Rockford fosgate 12 in powered sub
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462394225&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rockford+fosgate+12+in+powered+sub
Also I replaced the front speakers with the same brand. Kept everything else stock
Will do! :) when you say P1, are you referring to this combo: Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt Powered Loaded 12-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure by Rockford Fosgate http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Hzy2tb07YN0CV
Or this: Rockford Fosgate P1-2X12 500 Watts Dual Rms Subwoofer Enclosure by Rockford Fosgate http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004V9GR62/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_1Ay2tb1KTZ020 because I don't think that would fit in my car... Hahaha
Yes, everything still applies. I did not cover power and ground installation of the actual amp wiring kit, just the proper way to get your audip signal to your amp an sub. I'm using a powered subwoofer as well, a Rockford Fosgate P300-12.
While not necessary, its always s good practive to run your amps main power line from the battery down one side of the car, and the audio signal from your radio down the other side. This helps to eliminate the possibility of introducing DC frequency noise into your audio signal.
Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt Powered Loaded 12-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure
So if I purchased it on Amazon do they normally come with everything needed to install it? Or do they just normally assume that you have all of the wires/adapters already?
100 has Android Auto AND Apple CarPlay. Also has a 6.4" screen versus 6.2". The 1000 can have Sat Radio added. The 100 cannot. If you've got an iPhone and want the USB up front, then go for the 1000.
And even though your budget doesn't include the head unit, I'd still recommend that Key amplifier. Start with that. Head unit and amp. See how you like it. If you decide you want more bass after that, we can talk amp and sub. Maybe something like this?
youll need around $100 for install so youre looking more at around $200 for the rest.
check Craigslist first and see if you can find a sub and amp. check the sidebar for recommended brands and stay away from cheap stuff like Boss, Pyramid, Pyle, Rockville etc..
another option is to buy sub+amp sets. like this Rockford Fosgate. something like this wont rattle the block but itll sound good in your car.
i have this sub in a 98 extended cab. takes up quite a bit of space. i can post pictures if you would like.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=twister_B00A8F4TAY?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Do you not have the phone slot in the middle arm rest to stick your phone?
As for the sound system, I added a 12" powered Rockford Fostgate sub and it's night and day. Cost around $200 total and it sounds waaaaay better and has a quick release harness to easily pop the box out if I want the trunk room back.
I won't ever go back to not having an amp and sub. It really adds so much depth that the stock stereo lacked. It really makes everything sound better, podcasts, country, EDM.
This is the sub I bought.
I've never had a sub in my car, but I never knew what I was missing either. If you can afford the trunk space and like your music loud, I recommend it.
Thanks for all the responses guys. Definitely loving this subreddit, great community to be a part of. So I decided on a two-way speaker set up with a sub/amp enclosure for the trunk, and eventually in place of the soft top with a little fabrication. Speakers, sub, plus some speaker baffles and 8 gauge wire kit for the sub. I'll make sure to post a follow up, once everything's fine tuned.
edit - words
I decided to go with these speakers and this sub
Hmm, what about http://www.amazon.com/RearView-Headrest-Monitor-Support-Rotating/dp/B007SLDF7O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404768541&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=fpv+monitor ?
I actually found that Boscam I linked to earlier on Amazon for a little cheaper and it comes with free 2 day shipping. I try to avoid HobbyKing when I can find an alternative. I mainly just search HobbyKing for reviews and discussion on products I can find elsewhere.
Would that monitor be okay? I see it has the required AV inputs, though my confusion would be powering it. I still haven't looked into it a whole lot yet, because I'm on break at work right now and about to go back in but will read up more later.
The whole laptop idea seemed simpler to me, though I did not take into account issues when streaming. My main goal was to just have an easy, portable, battery powered 'monitor' to haul with me.
There's lots to choose from:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&amp;field-keywords=7%20inch%20tft
these are the ones I used.
We've just installed a system with a monochrome CCTV camera (£10) from eBay, lots of coax and a load of £25 7'' monitors (http://www.amazon.co.uk/ePathChina%C2%AE-Camera-Monitor-Support-Rotating/dp/B007SLDF7O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396316279&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=tft+colour+monitor) and a big TV for the green room.
Worked out very cheap and is a lot easier to 'make work' than an IP camera system for the less technical types.
not really, the built in FPV on the vision is crap, and the camera isn't that great, you made the right choice setting up your own rig and getting a go pro that you can actually use without your phantom. this is the monitor and i have it wired up to this battery pack. I spent about 170 total and have 3x the range and better quality than a vision or vision+
http://www.amazon.com/Boscam-600mw-Wireless-Transmitter-Receiver/dp/B00GWFUTSKhttp://www.amazon.com/Boscam-600mw-Wireless-Transmitter-Receiver/dp/B00GWFUTSK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452942935&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=5.8+ghz+video+transmitter
http://www.amazon.com/Dragonpad-RearView-Headrest-Monitor-Rotating/dp/B007SLDF7O
http://www.amazon.com/Output-Transmission-XiaoMi-Action-Camera/dp/B018I3SKDY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452942902&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=FPV+Video+Output+Transmission+Cable+Line+For+XiaoMi+Yi
You would be better off to use seperate fpv cam.The video he only uses temporary connections but this gives an idea of setup.You may be able to get all these parts at banggood if thats better,and transmitter receiver from hobbyking.This is about as cheap and good as it gets.This is just my opinion with little knowledge about fpv.BTW I have that monitor and quite impressed.The tripod I linked is pretty good aswell.
http://www.amazon.com/WT3110A-45-inch-Portable-Camcorders-Projector/dp/B00YMCMAMS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452943990&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=WT3110A+45-inch+Mini+tripod+With+3-Way+Head+Tripod+for+Portable+Tripod+Mount+%26+Digital+Cameras+%26+Camcorders+%26+Video+Projector+Floor+Stand%28Silver%29
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hdaXFAB_LrM
You'll want to look for a low-cost/low-spec 7" LCD TV, although sometimes it may be a 7" video display with no TV tuner. If you're in the US, this one on Amazon looks similar/identical to the one OP has for $26.20. It has a mounting/rotating assembly intended for car installation, although it looks like it should be able to stand on its own (similar to OP's photo).
Keep in mind that these are also low-res too, and you'll have to use the composite output of the Raspberry Pi for video. If you want sound, that might be possible too by connecting a 3.5mm to RCA jack cable to the Pi's headphone connector. Some of these have batteries too, although the one I linked to designed for car use may not. If it does have a battery and TV tuner though, it might also be useful as a battery-powered "emergency TV".
I have one of these that I bought on clearance for around US$25 a few years ago (from CVS of all places) sitting around. Previously I've given thought to using in a Pi project, but this post gave me a little bit of inspiration to give it a shot. Thanks OP!
Upgrader http://www.amazon.com/Camera-Monitor-Support-Rotating-Screen/dp/B007SLDF7O/ref=pd_sim_e_2
[Unformatted Example Response Post]
Notes:
Here is the screen I used. You can draw your own conclusions. Hehe
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SLDF7O/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It's a 7 inch. This is the actual monitor
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007SLDF7O?vs=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SLDF7O?colid=3FIAXDQH9G26G&amp;coliid=I18XOHTC9I1ZOL&amp;ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl
this is a decent screen for 25 bucks. if you want to order from china you can get it for under 20.
I plan on getting this one... And it has capacitor to handle the heat.
http://www.amazon.com/G1W-C-1080P-H-264-Capacitor-Model/dp/B00JJ3SQRI/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408301566&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=g1w-c+dash+cam
I use this dashcam.
https://www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-STI_G1W-C-Capacitor-Dashcam/dp/B00JJ3SQRI
It is working perfectly fine. I don't backup the footage everyday, will do it only when any incident happens.
A decent dashcam is much cheaper than you might think.
The G1W-C dashcam is awesome.
I use G1W-c (capacitor), it is generic and was on sale when I bought it for $50ish. https://www.amazon.ca/Spy-Tec-G1W-C-Camera-Capacitor/dp/B00JJ3SQRI you can play around with the firmware too. Takes decent video and most important thing for me is the capacitor, so I will never need to replace the battery in it and won't run out from depleted battery.
I got this'n, I got the capacitor-based one because it's supposed to hold up to high temperatures better, because Texas. So far it's worked pretty well, sometimes the loop recording doesn't work and it just stops recording when the memory card fills up. Just have to wipe it manually and then it's fine again. I use a 32gb card so it takes a while to fill up.
Look into a dashcam, i just bought this one and it works perfect for the price, here is a video that somebody recorded using it and i got my cellphone if they ask me to get out.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJ3SQRI/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_2?colid=1K48IXV3NSZLN&amp;coliid=I1LZLLWDC00MIA is the one I always see recommended this is the C model that uses a capacitor instead of battery to deal with direct heat. Drop the C to find the normal model. Its about $70. I'm saving to buy one
Here is the amazon link for the camera I purchased
not the exact one but, along the same lines.
G1WH in my Honda, A119c in my dads Jeep.
https://www.amazon.de/Spy-Tec-H-264-Car-Dashboard-Authentic/dp/B00KZ0J452/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491457934&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Black+Box+G1W-H
This is the one I guess?
Simple, cheap, and effective.
https://www.amazon.ca/Spy-Tec-Recorder-Dashboard-Authentic/dp/B00KZ0J452/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501893311&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=g1w+c+dash+cam
Mine isn't made anymore but here is it's updated replacement:
www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-Recorder-Dashboard-Authentic/dp/B00KZ0J452
It says 64GB microSD like mine did, but I never could find a 64GB SD that worked with mine. Maybe they fixed it in the update.
Chipset: Novatek NT96650 Chipset + Aptina AR0330 Lens
Lens Angle: 140° wide angle lens
Decode Format: H.264
Video Resolution: 1080P HD (1920 x 1080) 30fps, 720P (1280 x 720) 30fps,
720P 60fps/WVGA (848 x 480) 30fps, VGA (640 x 480) 30fps
Do you happen to know if the 2 a linked to are the real ones?
For example, Spy Tec: http://www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-G1WH-Dashboard-140%C2%B0/dp/B00KZ0J452
And Black Box: http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-H-Hidden-Dashboard/dp/B00HMNFWYW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452932558&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=G1WH
Spy Tec G1WH. Capable of wide angle, and 1080p/30fps recording. The way it works is that it records in 5 minute blocks - once it runs out of room in the memory card, it overwrites the oldest block. The caveat is that it doesn't play well with Class 10 micro sd cards, so I use a 32GB Class 6. I believe I have an 8-10 hour window of current 1080p footage, which should be more than sufficient.
I also purchased a dashcam hard-wire kit, in conjunction with an add-a-fuse kit. It might sound daunting to a layman, but it was actually incredibly simple to wire up. With it, the dashcam turns on when I turn the car on (I wired it in to the car stereo), and turns off when I turn the car off. This was necessary for me because one alternative, using a power adapter plugged into the cigarette lighter, wouldn't work due to my cigarette lighter always being powered, even when the truck is turned off. Also, my install is clean as hell - the only things visible are the cam itself, and about four inches of power wire running up to the headliner.
Here are the specific items I purchased, on Amazon:
Dashcam, $53 Prime
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZ0J452
Hardwire kit, $15 shipped
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S73FE8A
Add-A-Fuse, $11 Prime
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GKEXK2
Rearview mirror mount, $9 Prime
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JWGC29U
Class 6 32GB MicroSDHC + adapter if you don't already have one, $16 Prime
www.amazon.com/dp/B00IVPU7DQ
Running total for everything above, to your door, about $105. Install takes about ten-fifteen minutes by yourself. You can probably get a local shop to do it if you prefer, for a cost. Hell, I'd even lend a hand if you wanted, so long as you promise you aren't a total fucking weirdo.
Edit to answer your second question: Yeah, I like it. For $100, it's probably the best quality you'll find. With it installed, I often forget it's even there; it's tucked away behind my mirror. The peace of mind that it adds, should I ever need it myself, is great. Also, catching stuff like what's in the video is a huge bonus!
I bought spytec, cost around $60, records HD, works well.
https://www.amazon.ca/Spy-Tec-Recorder-Dashboard-Authentic/dp/B00KZ0J452
Thank you thank you thank you! Feel silly not knowing what it was called (ends up in a lot of wasted google searches)
I just ordered it on amazon with commonly bought together 32gb memory card thing. Less than $100, thank you!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZ0J452/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A867P1BBKCZM8
I have the Tune 2 air I got for my TTS a month ago.
Everything works fine. Get in car it starts playing music. I can use soundcloud mixcloud whatever I want. It also retains my normal Bluetooth functionality for phone calls. Pauses music to answer. Once the call has hung up it takes a second or two but the music starts playing again.
https://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-WMA3000A-Bluetooth-Interface-Integration/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485344576&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Viseeo+Tune+2+Air
As it is, it won't be able to play music over Bluetooth, all it supports is conversations over phone. The only way I was able to stream music over Bluetooth was with an aftermarket device plugged into the media socket.
You can find one here https://www.amazon.ca/ViseeO-Tune2Air-WMA3000A-Bluetooth-Adapter/dp/B00R2HZ1XU
Even then, it's unreliable. Sound cuts out and it's completely impossible to select songs through your MMI controls.
If you're sure that the 30-pin adapter is working properly, try this one rather than plugging your phone to the insanely short cable in the glove box.
https://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-Tune2Air-WMA3000A-Bluetooth-Adapter/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465825302&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=audi+mmi+cable
It looks like a good solution to me.
https://www.amazon.com/Bovee-Bluetooth-Car-Kit-AUDI/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/
2012 models dont support music Bluetooth streaming. That was introduced in 2013 models. I have a 2012 Audi S4 myself.
I bought an AMI to lightening port adapter. It's quite expensive around $120 and I have an ipod nano. I keep the ipod in the glovebox and can control everything through the MMI or from my center dashboard. Sort through playlists, artists, songs, album, etc..
Another option is this https://www.amazon.ca/ViseeO-Tune2Air-WMA3000A-Bluetooth-Adapter/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494965143&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=audi+bluetooth+adapter
You can buy this and it allows you to use spotify and if Im correct, change the song from your MMI but I could be wrong. I would do a bit of research on this bluetooth dongle to confirm all the functions available but I know a lot of people bought this and they say it works well.
This one works fantastic :
https://www.amazon.com/Bovee-Bluetooth-Car-Kit-AUDI/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4M365RWDH34BWRNH9FMT
Sorry im really stupid could i just remove the cd changer and install this
https://smile.amazon.com/Bovee-Bluetooth-Car-Kit-AUDI/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501118560&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=tune2air
in its place?
This is all you need!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ke41BbRQ2G0MC
Yea you can skip songs, play/pause, and control volume from steering wheel and dash buttons.
If you already have the media cable then this (or something like it) is what you need
Bovee 1000 Wireless Bluetooth Music Interface Adapter for in Car iPod Integration https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B52LLJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Rer0Bb6WP6BTA
If you don’t have the media cable, something like this will probably be better since the cable is like $150 from the dealership (if I remember correctly)
Bovee Bluetooth Car Kit for AUDI, VW, MB - Music Interface Adaptor for in car iPod Integration (WMA3000A AMI/MDI/MMI connector) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uir0BbQ4F6KBT
Before you buy anything make sure you have the media port. Mine was located in the glove compartment on the left side.
Also this one (on sale)
https://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-WMA3000A-Bluetooth-Interface-Integration/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1488002256&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=audi+q5+bluetooth+adapter
you need this
Instant plug in Bluetooth streaming audio
It's been great so far except it's a 2009 and I can connect my phone for bluetooth calling but not for bluetooth music and I bought this ami cable with an aux cord and it didn't work. thinking about getting this but It's so expensive.
To stream music with your iPhone, this will do the trick...
https://www.amazon.com/Bovee-Bluetooth-Car-Kit-AUDI/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521215619&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=bovee
As for phone calls, it should support that by default.
You’ll need to buy an adapter for the MMI system- if you look in your glove box, you can find the connector input to hook it up. Inconvenient but it works.
Bovee Wireless Car Kit for AUDI, VW, MB - Music Interface Adaptor for in car iPod Integration (WMA3000A AMI/MDI/MMI connector) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9-u0Db7P709H5
https://www.amazon.com/Tune2Air-WMA3000B-Bluetooth-Streaming-Connection/dp/B00R3ABHXY
I have an 09 non-iDrive 328i, and this is exactly what you need. Works well.
This is what I am using.
Bovee Bluetooth Car Kit for BMW and Mini Coopers - Android and iPhone Music Interface Adaptor for in car iPod Integration (WMA3000B USB / AUX connector) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R3ABHXY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q2fqDb4REA8FA
I used the cable setup below (2x’s), but it doesn’t provide any control and I had issues with the audio jack breaking.
Edit: orientation of previous cable listed from above to below.
Yes I just did this. https://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-Tune2Air-WMA3000B-Bluetooth-Adapter/dp/B00R3ABHXY
I use that. You may need a different model so do some research.
hmm but then how does this adapter work?
https://www.amazon.ca/ViseeO-Tune2Air-WMA3000B-Bluetooth-Adapter/dp/B00R3ABHXY
Need one of these. Sorry, I don’t have the link to the UK Amazon site.
https://www.amazon.com/Bovee-Bluetooth-Car-Mini-Coopers/dp/B00R3ABHXY
Do you have USB and AUX right next to each other (the "iPod" option)? If so, you can get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Bovee-Bluetooth-Car-Mini-Coopers/dp/B00R3ABHXY
If you have an Android phone, it connects for media audio and lets you use the steering wheel controls. If you have an iPhone, it does track info on the screen as well. The only downside is having to swap inputs from Radio -> iPod every time you turn the car on.
If you get one, and the sound quality is bad, this forum thread helped me get it fixed: www.mini2.com/forum/second-generation-interior-ice/251809-iphone-ipod-poor-sound-quality.html
Alternatively, you can replace the radio with a double or single-DIN unit, but it's difficult, expensive, and you lose some computer functionality. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8t-HhSD2_w
This is the one I use and it works great in my 2008 e90 335 w/iDrive. Just plug the USB and AUX in the jacks inside the center console and you're good to go. They also have a couple of different versions incase you already have the 30-pin ipad adapter or using another type of european car (Audi, etc..). It's been rock solid for me and has never given me an issue. Probably the first bluetooth device that hasn't given me at least one problem. lol
If you don't have Bluetooth for streaming but do have iPod integration in the centre console you need https://www.amazon.co.uk/ViseeO-Tune2Air-WMA3000B-Bluetooth-Adapter/dp/B00R3ABHXY
Edit: yeah I forgot I ended up getting this which worked for my 2015 r61 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R3ABHXY/ref=pe_825000_114657650_TE_item
This is what I use in my 2012 and it works really well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R3ABHXY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8HUbzbJS9VH5Y
I added this to my 135i and it worked. Make sure it works with your i drive
I can control music with the stock head unit and it routes phone calls to the incar speaker. Also it shows artist etc
I use this in my car and have no quality issues quatsoever.
ViseeO Tune2Air WMA3000B Bluetooth Adapter for Streaming iPod/iPhone/iPad to BMW/Mini with original AUX/USB Y-Cable Connection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R3ABHXY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nAasybQ7S6MRN
It says iPod but it's any Bluetooth device. I've had my android tablet hooked up to it
I'm so sorry! It's a 2009 non xdrive?
So I think I can get any cable, but it had to have an adapter change the media from digital to analog?
Or I can get a y cable with a blue tooth adapter
So either this:
https://www.google.com/search?q=61122287642&amp;rlz=1CDGOYI_enUS670US670&amp;oq=61122287642&amp;aqs=chrome..69i57.1009j0j8&amp;hl=en-US&amp;sourceid=chrome-mobile&amp;ie=UTF-8#imgdii=xA4SkwZu0AQB9M%3A%3BGEJ0fzEmoH_8ZM%3A%3BGEJ0fzEmoH_8ZM%3A&amp;imgrc=GEJ0fzEmoH_8ZM%3A
Or this:
ViseeO Tune2Air WMA3000B Bluetooth Adapter for Streaming iPod/iPhone/iPad to BMW/Mini with original AUX/USB Y-Cable Connection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R3ABHXY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iI0zybCRT7T7K
Either of those work?
It all depends on if you have the Media package otherwise you can only use bluetooth for phone only.
Do you have a usb port in the glovebox?
That being said, you can just buy an adapter that plugs both into aux and usb.
This is the one I have and it works perfectly.
I feel your pain, as I had a BMW that didn't have enhanced bluetooth. (So I couldn't listen to music through my phone.) There are so many products that claimed to work, but didn't deliver. The cassette/bluetooth things are a pain, those Android systems LOOK cool, but it's a crap-shoot about how well they actually work (not to mention take away from the stock look of the car,) and who still uses auxiliary cords anymore? I can relate.
Sadly, I too admitted defeat and was only able to solve the problem when it was time for me to get another car.
FYI: Don't waste your time on this (or anything that looks like it.) It won't stay connected, and will be more trouble than it's worth.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R3ABHXY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Not a trick so much as a way to get modern bluetooth audio in your "dated" 2009 BMW nav. Check out http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R3ABHXY -- it works brilliantly if you have ipod integration already.
if you have an iphone 7... this is necessary
I have a 2011 535i. I'm very happy with ViseeO Tune2Air WMA3000B Bluetooth Adapter, you can connect your iPhone via bluetooth and still see track information on iDrive. All other functions (receive calls/skip tracks, etc) work perfectly as well.
For me now it's almost as my bluetooth connection was native to the car and I forget I'm using an adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R3ABHXY/
It's not perfect, but it works. I've used it for 3+ years.
That would work perfectly. That way you aren't running the signal through two amp circuits.
Another option would be to go with a Fiio E17K, which has a 3.5mm line out which you could hook up to your speakers. It's smaller and more geared towards being portable, but I use the original E17 and it sounds great.
I have a Fiio Alpen 2 that is supposed to work on OTG for digital transfer of the music to the DAC/AMP (which is how I use in on my PC) but I've never got that function to work. It comes with a short headphone jumper cable though. Has plenty of power for my ATH-M50x's which are 38 ohms, the Crushers appear to be 32 so it would work well.
My best use of it has been with a tablet so my wife and I can watch a movie on planes with a splitter cable. The battery is good for 10+ hours on a charge.
$110, so dead on budget. But, unsurprisingly for a portable, it only has line out and headphone out. So same features as e.g. the $67 SMSL SD793-II. I really want a usable volume knob -I'm unfortunately using an Alessis RA-100 and, as I'm sure you can imagine, having a knob for each channel is a huge pain in the arse outside of a studio environment.
Hey guys, I recently got my first pair of "nice" headphones (Sennheiser 598 Cs) and was looking into getting a DAC/amp for them to use with my PC. I know this isn't specifically about headphones, but are there any good DAC/amp combos you would recommend?
Budget is ~$100, but any suggestions are welcome. My only caveat is it needs to have an AUX In port so I can route my mic through for reference audio. I've been looking at this one, but I have no experience in this area.
To drive headphones you'll need a USB DAC and a headphone amp. For $100 you're probably looking at a combination unit. The Schiit Fulla 2 fits into your budget.
You could also consider the Fiio E17K.
If you sit far from your console you'll also need a long cable!
If you got the Schiit Magni 2 you definitely need an amp because it only has RCA input. Most people get the Schiit Modi 2 with it, hence why they call it a Schiit stack. The Schiit combo isn't very mobile at all.
If you are looking for something to also use with a phone as well as on the laptop I would suggest the Fiio E17k or if you just want a laptop setup (for like working in an office) you could consider the Schiit Fulla 2.
I wouldn't worry too much about trying to find the "perfect" amp because most $100+ amps will be more than enough to power most headphones. Your computer
is technically enough to power them though it would sound much better through an amp/DAC combo (either as a single unit or separate amp and DAC units).
Sup Fam,
I currently own this amp:
https://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E17K-ALPEN-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00RPD7KP8
Is there a way to use this such that I can connect it to a CRT and get in game sound?
Looking for something more portable so the E09k might not work but through the Amazon questions I came across the Fiio E17K ALPEN 2 USB DAC Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RPD7KP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xcNHzbAVTGQE2
Might try this option.
Should I get the Fiio E17k DAC/Headphone amp or would I be better off going with something else? I'm looking for a dac with a headphone amp for no more than $100. I would like it to be portable and have an aux in. Is this my best option or should I go with something else?
https://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E17K-ALPEN-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00RPD7KP8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481228769&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=e17k
I'm not sure where you are getting 27 CAD. On Amazon.ca it's $178 CAD... https://www.amazon.ca/FiiO-E17K-ALPEN-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00RPD7KP8. Anyways if you can get it for that price why not go for that?
Budget is 100$. Headphones are ATH-M50xWH. Looking for a USB DAC for my Galaxy S5. Any help is greatly appreciated. I've been looking at these which are a little over the budget but I might be able to swing it. I love bass but I don't want it to distort or silence/quiet any treble.
Hi there,
from personal experience I'd recommend the Sennheiser ie80 ($200 USD) with the Fiio E17K ($100 USD). :)
I went a seperate route.
Once I got my speakers (w/ receiver), I bought a Fiio E17k AMP/DAC and a bluetooth adapter.
I plug the bluetooth adapter into the input on my AMP/DAC, and connect my receiver to the output from my AMP/DAC. Works great for playing music from any bluetooth device. I also have the AMP/DAC plugged into my PC via USB to use as a soundcard, and just have to hit the input button on the AMP/DAC to switch from AUX(bluetooth) to USB(computer).
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GPV7AH4/ref=s9_dcbhz_bw_d0_g23_i1_sh
This is a super basic amp and portable. You may also want a DAC (Digital to Analog Converter) as well assuming it's for a desktop computer setup.
This should be a decent intro level DAC/Amp combo: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QLPJM/ref=s9_hps_bw_g23_i2
I went with a Creative Sound Blaster. It replaced my broken headphone jack and improved audio. Just don't use the software. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004275EO4/ref=s9_hps_bw_g147_i16
And I also have this Fiio for using my Sennheiser HD280s at work. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RPD7KP8?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
I'm pretty sure this is it. I like how I can hide it behind my mirror. The quality is decent, and it has a battery that allows the camera to continue to record for a certain amount of time after the engine is shut off.
Most of the time I forget it's there until something fun happens on the road. Have had it for over a year and the peace of mind is worth way more than the cost of the camera.
Edit: Looks like for $15 more you can get one of a similar format that is more favorably reviewed. Rexing.
Here is the link It is nice and sleek, not too noticeable in the vehicle. Great Quality!!!
Edited* You can also purchase a hard wiring kit, I wired mine into my mirror.
I have an A118C & like it. Good picture & fits all requirements you listed.
EDIT: Although, the rear cam is of lower quality come to think of it.
I may spend 29 bucks on amazon for a replacement= hd cam for the rear
In case you don't want to do what is often suggested here (wire into the fuse box), maybe I have something for you.
I got this for my 2017 hatch. The cord it came with was long enough. With camera mounted just to the passenger side of rear view mirror, the cord runs along top of windshield to the passenger door frame, tucked along the trim down the front of the door frame to the bottom, under the passenger seat, and into the center console. It really only has maybe a few inches of slack, it's actually quite ideal length. The only spot it's really visible is where it crosses from the upper corner of the windshield to the door frame. There's a seam in the interior there so I'm sure it could be hidden but I didn't want to start taking pieces of my interior off in order to get the cord behind without causing damage (I mean, at that point you may as well go the fusebox route).
Is this the model you went with? I see several on Amazon but it seems there's half a dozen "A118C" with minor differences and all of the lower priced ones have about 3 stars. This one seemed to rank a bit better and have more info
https://www.amazon.com/AUTO-VOX-Dashboard-Capacitor-Internal-Recording/dp/B00UUQD9L6/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502665119&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=A118C+dash+cam
Since 2016 - it was this one - out of production now but it's newer A119 versions are available. It's been parked in the Phoenix sun for about a year now and where I moved from before was quite toasty too.
I also use a Roav in my jeep
higher quality video but it has a battery - I do keep that car garaged and out of the sun.
Transcend 520.
There are cheaper cams for sure, but most don't have the in-car video. I actually bought a more expensive one than this Transcend, but it doesn't do in car video so looking to replace it with this one...
/r/Dashcam
Best cam recommendations
---
Cheapest: G1W-C(B) ($56 USD)
Best value: Xiaomi Yi Dashcam ($70 USD)
Discreet: A119 ($90 USD)
Versatile: Mobius ($75 USD)
Budget Dual Cam: BlackSys CF-100 ($95 USD)
Discrete Dual Cam: Blackvue DR650GW-2CH ($355 USD)
Night vision: Street Guardian SG9665GC ($209.95 USD)
Taxi/Uber Cam: Transcend DP520 ($195 USD)
Rules
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Reddit members who are also Retailers are NOT Allowed to Post links to their site / eBay listings / Amazon listings / Aliexpress listings /etc. This is a common sense and anti-SPAM rule, but it was asked to be spelled out.
Also please do not post Dailymotion.com and Liveleak.com links, only Youtube, and the content posted must not come from any "compilation" channels (ones dedicated to uploading stolen content with no permission from the owners of the content), please post the original link, not a reupload, unless the original is not available.
See Also:
---
www.dashcamtalk.com
www.dashcamtalk.com/forum
/r/Roadcam
/r/carcrash
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^(Bot created by /u /el_loke - )^Feedback
https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Drive-Recorder-Suction-TS32GDP520M/dp/B0147R9PDO
Thank you again for your time and help with this. It looks like I will have to compromise some features. The car is sometimes left in the garage days at a time. Perhaps a dual camera setup like cabs/ubers have would catch the sides of the cars so at least I could identify the vehicle type.
The Transcend DP520 that is recommended at the right looks almost perfect, but the interior facing camera is only 110 degrees, so it might not capture what I want. https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Drive-Recorder-Suction-TS32GDP520M/dp/B0147R9PDO/
I bought the Transcend DP520 and tried it for the first time last night. Worked way better than expected. I normally tend to drive at night and the video inside and out looked pretty good.
Transcend 32GB Drive Pro 520 Car Video Recorder with Suction Mount (TS32GDP520M) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0147R9PDO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CZVNzbVT75BP1
$150, but totally worth it.
https://smile.amazon.com/Transcend-Drive-Recorder-Suction-TS32GDP520M/dp/B0147R9PDO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521819910&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=transcend+520+pro
Yeah just shop around to find a dashcam that would work good for you. I use a Transcend DrivePro 520
https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Drive-Recorder-Suction-TS32GDP520M/dp/B0147R9PDO
Then plug it in and suction cup to your window and you're good to go. Make sure you read reviews before making your purchase.
You didn't mention a range you consider inexpensive
I have heard good things about the Drive Pro 520 it is $186 USD
https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Drive-Recorder-Suction-TS32GDP520M/dp/B0147R9PDO
[here you go] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0147R9PDO/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
I just purchased a Transcend 32GB Drive Pro 520 Car Video Recorder with Suction Mount (TS32GDP520M) a couple of weeks ago. So far I am well pleased with it, it's on Amazon for $148.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0147R9PDO/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1
I did my NA with a Bluetooth dongle plugged into a Pyle amp.
I used one of [these](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0168GBMCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_bdgFI4fdB9fNN
) Because it has controls I can just push instead of having to manipulate my phone.
Grab one of these guys. Would make your life easier not having to plug in a 3.5mm anyways. Note: I still disagree with Apple's decision, just presenting some alternatives.
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Receiver-Charger-Magnetic-Handsfree/dp/B0168GBMCY
Problem solved?
AUKEY Bluetooth Receiver with 3Port USB Car Charger, Magnetic Base and Handsfree Calling for IPhone, Samsung and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0168GBMCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wbs0xbAX0Q9JS
Edit: Someone else beat me to the punch :(
You can connect to Crankshaft using bluetooth, but only using Android Auto. You might wanna add a bluetooth/ aux thing. I used this in my older car that had an aux input but no bluetooth. https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Bluetooth-Receiver-Magnetic-Microphone/dp/B0168GBMCY/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2F18XGGMBRLB8&amp;keywords=aukey+bluetooth&amp;qid=1569240324&amp;sprefix=aukey+b%2Caps%2C148&amp;sr=8-4
I don't know anything about any of that, but in mine I just purchased a $15-30 bluetooth receiver that works extremely well. In the e90 in particular it's nice because you can leave it plugged into the arm rest socket.
The unit is really just the controller piece, which you can stick anywhere on your dash (I stuck next to the iDrive wheel).
I'm talking something like this: https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Bluetooth-Receiver-Magnetic-Handsfree/dp/B0168GBMCY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493952251&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aukey+car+bluetooth
AUKEY Bluetooth Receiver Car Kit with 3-Port USB Car Charger, Magnetic Base, and Built-In Microphone for iPhones, Samsung Phones, Tablets, and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0168GBMCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0vQvCb1HFJZTS
At least throw me an upvote! https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Bluetooth-Receiver-Magnetic-Microphone/dp/B0168GBMCY/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542897404&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=aukey+bluetooth+receiver&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41Br9mllEuL&amp;ref=plSrch
Try this one - can run it off the constant power in the console, and the aux in Port is there too. Only downside is no steering wheel control, but it does have a puck that you can control it with:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0168GBMCY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_ZmHxCbJ621GY0
The dashboard cracking can be prevented by either covering it, or not exposing the car to rapid changes in temperatures constantly. Mine is not cracked, and I don't have it covered either but I may cover it in black alcantera if I swap out my seats for the beige alcantera recaro seats that I have been lusting after for about a year.
The homelink does also cause battery drainage when it malfunctions, thought yes it is easily replaceable, even removable. It's not necessary, and the Bluetooth capabilities are just for calling, no media. I installed this in the car for calling and music playback, it works great. My homelink works fine but I find it useless so I unplugged it.
I find the TL Type S to be one of the most elegant sedans ever made. If this car was made RWD, it would still be giving the E46 M3 a run for its money in all aspects. I feel as if Honda one-upped BMW in that time period with a FWD sedan like they did to Ferrari with the NSX back in the 90's.
I have been using this for a few months and it's working flawlessly with iPhone 6 and iPhone 7 https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Receiver-Charger-Magnetic-Handsfree/dp/B0168GBMCY/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479238592&amp;sr=1-1-catcorr&amp;keywords=aukey+bluetooth+car
Oh I know. I own one of them. I just don't like how it disconnects frequently and takes forever to regain sync to my device. The AUKEY I'm talking about would allow you to have your cake and eat it to.
Device I'm talking about.
Basically you would leave everything in the center console, it would give you the exact same controls as the one you have now, make it to where it's only one bluetooth device connected at once, AND you'd be able to use your hands free phone from it as it has a mic on the control puck. Yeah, it's got one wire going to the puck, but trust me. It's one of the best solutions out there. I've been through a bunch and this one has worked and looked fantastic for over 6 months now.
depending on if you have the AUX jack or not, this works really well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0168GBMCY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Use an IEC splitter cable with a clip-on ferrite. The IEC splitter allows you to neatly wire up all of your power supplies from a single cable. You can fix it in place on your pedalboard, so you'll only need to plug in a single power cable to run all of your Pedal Power units. The ferrite will help dissipate RF interference coming from the mains wiring.
While you're at it, get yourself an outlet tester and a GFCI - it could save your life.
So just to update a solution
eBoot 20 Pieces Clip-on Ferrite Ring Core RFI EMI Noise Suppressor Cable Clip for 3mm/ 5mm/ 7mm/ 9mm/ 13mm Diameter Cable, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E5E5IY4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jSjtDbE8GC63P
you could try throwing some ferrite beads on your line. If it got any better you'd know it was interference.
Put these everywhere.
https://smile.amazon.com/eBoot-Pieces-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B01E5E5IY4/
I picked up one these to run the USB from my Astro mixamp to my Xbox. I was having the same issue and this fixed it. They're plug and play too, no drivers. It is 50 bucks though so maybe not the most economical solution.
Look in to ferrite cores too. I have these wrapped around almost every cord I own.
Audio Quest Jitterbug
Ferrite Core
Just thought of something else... What about Bluetooth? Have you paired your Echo with something that could be transmitting to it? Could someone else have paired with it who is nearby when you hear the voice(s)?
Going back to potential RFI, I'm with /u/moronmonday526. Put a ferrite or two on the power cord and see if it helps. Also, try a different outlet in a different room.
If you have a battery base, you could just, of course, unplug the AC adapter and confirm/rule out that as a source (basically acting as an antenna).
FWIW, I haven't had any RFI with either the Echo or Google Home when I transmit (I'm one of the ham radio guys moronmonday mentioned). That said, we hams tend to be good at tracking down RFI and most hams are willing to lend a hand to help out a neighbor. Have any around you could call on? I doubt his/her radio is getting into your Echo from your description, but they can lend a hand in sniffing out the offending source if it is RFI.
Edit: fix link
are you talking about plug and play leds like these?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H6NZ7D8/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZDQ8BK/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1
what brand did you use, and would you recommend it.
also ferrit beads like this?
https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Pieces-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B01E5E5IY4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527192099&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=ferrite+beads&amp;refinements=p_72%3A2661618011
Try these from Amazon -- they worked for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E5E5IY4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
culprit is likely the cable/wire that feeds into your powered speakers. keep this very short. If that doesn't help, pick up these http://amzn.to/2wKQ7vB and clip to the wires as close to the speaker inputs as possible. Helps even more if yu can loop the wire through the beads like this: https://www.quantumbalancing.com/images/cp04.jpg
I've been struggling from audio noise/pops as well. I recently decided I wanted to build an all-in-one console out of a lunch box, the 7" official screen, this battery bank as well as these speakers and this amp to run off GPIO pins. After some struggle I finally got it to work; however, the crackling and noisy audio was still present like using the headphone jack. I tried doing the additions to the config.txt file for dither and pwm modes but they didn't do anything. I also can't seem to do sudo rpi-update from the console.
Today I have some snap on ferrite cores coming in so i'm going to see if that helps. If that fails I'm either going to give a USB adapter or the in-line ground loop linked by rhinofinger a chance.
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XAV-AX100-Android-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B01MF9W0GU
My favorite ddin until the current excelon stuff.
I had been looking at this [Sony](http://www.Sony.com/ XAV-AX100 6.4" Car Play/Android Auto Media Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sqJEAbGVBM331) unit on Amazon until I heard the new kenwood and jvc models will support wireless Android auto. Those were announced at CES last month.
I actually ended up going with a $15 phone mount :p definitely still considering upgrading in the future though
My eyes are still set on this slick little number here.
I saw this on sale today, apparently works great with carplay, check it out: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_0nuvzb86JX9GK
Android Auto/Apple CarPlay headunits are out there. yeah, it does suck to have to consider buying one to replace Toyota's Headunit right out of the gate. But hey at least you have the option.
Sony makes a really good one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nutTybC5BGJBD
But it clocks in at $500.
Really wish Toyota would throw their bullshit entune system out. Unless you are Porsche, all infotainment systems I've seen are ugly, slow and looks like it was programmed in the early days of the internet.
i am having the Sony delivered today:
https://smile.amazon.com/Sony-XAV-AX100-Android-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501081891&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sony+android+auto
I'm digging the interface on the Sony units. Anyone have any experience with them? Looking at this one particularly: https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XAV-AX100-Android-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500478091&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=sony+head+unit
I started with this
Sony XAV-AX100 6.4" Car Play/Android Auto Media Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HfZNBb13XS1Q1
Then bought this (in black)
http://www.jassperformance.com/shop/2DIN_Adapter_Stainless
And finally got these, so I can put it back to stock after:
https://www.carid.com/american-international/aftermarket-radio-wiring-harness-with-oem-plug-mpn-mwh856.html?singleid=16758971&amp;url=78706468
Put that all together and you have a modern looking and sounding navigation system in your NA I don’t know about you, but I had been using a cassette adapter, and this is a big upgrade. All it takes it a little soldering and stuffing wires away.
And as I continue to browse, I see this deal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LPV7G6 which includes a rear camera. Not a capacitor though. Didn't look like much of a deal at first then I saw it was 55 off in cart.
&#x200B;
So... many... choices...
I have been using the Rexing V1 for a couple of years now. I like it pretty well. I am currently considering upgrading to the V1LG which has front and rear camera. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LPV7G6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tPFLAb9B7JB48
A Rexing. It’s alright.
A story as old as time, very shitty though.
Ideas for next time:
I use this https://smile.amazon.com/Blueskysea-B1W-Recorder-Rotatable-Recording/dp/B0773FXVKL on my highlander and Dodge charger is good for the price and recommended on r/Dashcam
Usually the battery in dash cameras are not easily replaceable, but it is doable. Just not sure it's worth it. Plus, you can't even be sure it's 100% the battery.
If you can get the camera to turn on again, try manually defaulting the cameras settings in the menu (should be a default option). Worth a try.
If your looking for cheap, I wouldn't recommend anything cheaper than the BlueSkySea B1W. Seems to get decent reviews and it's a capacitor based camera, so no battery.
https://www.amazon.com/Blueskysea-B1W-Recorder-Rotatable-Recording/dp/B0773FXVKL
Got two of these B1W for around $100.
I have the Rexing V1LG Dual Channel and it works great!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LPV7G6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iZSPCbT0YANVX
I use [This] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LPV7G6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) version of Rexing and it hasn't failed me yet.
Ran into the same problem when the Note 9 went on sale and I jumped ship, but this mount and this Bluetooth adapter saved the day for me.
This was my first thought after getting my WT. But scrap that idea. Go pick up this thing (link below) and save yourself some money. It works wonders in my WT!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0739RGDFJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_V-QkDbVR7ZAEE)
I absolutely love this one
it works pretty good and looks really nice in my car, small and unobtrusive
there sometimes it doesn't auto connect but you just have to click the button and it only takes a couple seconds to connect
This looks great. Does it auto-start your music as well as soon as it reconnects? (assuming it's only been a few minutes or so)
(EDIT: That looks like it's possible a knockoff? No labeling. This looks like the same Mpow one and only $5 more)
There are many, look on Amazon. Personally I liked the Sony RM-X7BT, but they have discontinued it in the US and probably other markets. Look for something like this https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Bluetooth-Receiver-Hands-Free-Isolator/dp/B0739RGDFJ. These type of adapters don't have a battery, they're designed for cars, so they can turn on and off with the ignition (if your car turns on/off the 12V sockets; mine doesn't). This particular set comes with a ground loop isolator, which you may not need, you'll only need it if you hear static or whirring (from the engine).
Bear in mind that these cheap ones will likely sound like butt with calls due to not prioritizing mic quality, and using the old BT narrowband standard. Since the BT Hands-free Profile 1.6 (circa 2011), BT has been able to do wideband or "HD Voice" quality, but not all manufacturers use it, and good luck finding one that advertises it.
I liked the Sony one because the BT receiver/mic was separate from the controls so you could position it better. The control unit is completely wireless and battery powered, and IR so it needs line of sight, but on the upside the battery lasts very long, and unlike BT remotes, it doesn't need to go to sleep, it just always instantly works, like a regular TV remote. The mic quality was also excellent and noise reduction top notch, I tested it by recording directly on my computer connected to Hangouts and going for a drive. I went that far. It also has HFP 1.6 with wideband, as all modern Sony BT devices, and even has an external mic input. If you can find it and the price is not too expensive for you, I recommend it.
If you have aux in this is what you want
&#x200B;
Try to avoid fm transmitters at all costs. I had a similar one to this and it worked great.
$14
$26
Personally, I'd splurge for teh $26 unit since it has the ground loop isolator, and hands free calling, but the cheaper one offers less clutter.
Like I said, whether you have a headphone jack or not, I'd definitely consider either of those a good investment. And it has the bonus of making the lack of a headphone jack in your car an afterthought.
Okay sweet that's the same as mine!
https://www.gtacarkits.com/product/audi-a4-s4-2006-2008-iphone-aux-kit/
Buy the "Pure bluetooth with AUX" version of this thing, it's an easy install, the most difficult part is getting the cables you want to come through the glovebox, I had to get an old wire coat hanger and bend it around to grab the cables and pull them into the glovebox so I could access them with the radio locked into place.
My one complaint is the bluetooth quality isn't great, you may not notice it depending on the type of music you listen to and your affinity for sound quality. Personally it bothered me a bit so one of these things is a cheap fix for that:
https://smile.amazon.com/Mpow-Bluetooth-Receiver-Hands-Free-Isolator/dp/B0739RGDFJ
The first one has terrible sound quality. I have one. I also have 2 of the second one. It's better, but meh. Here's a better option
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0739RGDFJ/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519478050&amp;sr=2&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=2972398022&amp;pd_rd_wg=tOgIw&amp;pf_rd_r=VRBNC3VMF6363DN935Z6&amp;pf_rd_s=mobile-sx-bottom-slot&amp;pf_rd_t=9701&amp;pd_rd_i=B0739RGDFJ&amp;pd_rd_w=EJ2pA&amp;pf_rd_i=bluetooth+receiver&amp;pd_rd_r=26542ff8-8a0d-40af-a4ae-48364224b9c4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65
Route the Bluetooth mic to your visor or something
TL;DR -- OPTIONS:
1. BT-->Aux car kit adapter, with a big button that, when held, gives voice assistant prompt. also handy for pause/resume without reaching for stereo deck.
2. Physical Mic-button on my Pioneer stereo unit.
3. Eventually finding and troubleshooting why my Android phone won't listen to mic for ambient "OK GOOGLE" requests when screen is locked/asleep. I'm not there yet.
---
Option 1.
Before I bought my new stereo for my new-old-car, I bought a highly-recommended MPOW BT-->AUX car kit from Amazon after scouring reviews.
I hated it.
It directly led to me shelling out almost $500 for a new head unit, steering control adapter and enough cabling to wire a space shuttle prepping to go into orbit.
BUT I haven't yet returned it to Amazon, and after admiring its One Big Button on the face of the thing (and the elegant magnet mount) I figured "what the hell."
My Android phone still paired with it automatically, even while also paired to the head unit simultaneously.
I pushed the button and it paused my music.
I booped the button again and it unpaused.
I pressed it firmly for FOUR OR FIVE FREAKING SECONDS and it promped me with the Google Assistant cue. Success.
---
Option 2.
I checked the PDF manuals online (pg's 26/27) and found the following Pioneer AVH-series head units have essentially the same instructions for "Voice Recognition (for iPhone)" which appears to have the correct equivalent behavior for Android devices (and I'm assuming the other NEX series models have the same button):
AVH-2440 AVH-2400 AVH-1440 AVH-1400NEX
[AVH-2440 AVH-2400 AVH-1440 AVH-1400]
(https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/AVH-2440_2400_1440_1400NEX_OpManual062918.pdf)
That fat little bumblebee logo on my stereo was actually an obvious Mic emblem the whole while. This is technically a physical button that will consistently prompt my Google Assistant, even if the button is smallish and doesn't really lend itself to pressing without looking (I'll orient my hands against the 'Eject' button seated to the ride of it).
---
Option 3.
I think the holy grail would be if I could figure out why the menu for (Android P) Settings-->Assist App (Settings)-->"Voice Match" grays out "Access with Voice Match" in order to access Assistant any time even if screen is off.
If anybody has experience with this, I'd love to hear about it.
I have one of these Bluetooth adapters in my Mazda. It plugs in to the aux input and it has physical buttons and a microphone on a small unit with a magnetic release that you put somewhere convenient. You could connect either your Android or your iPhone to it and then the other phone to your car's Bluetooth. It's a kludge but maybe it will accomplish what you need.
I was told that my 2017 Alltrack would accept two simultaneous Bluetooth connections, but that appears to be incorrect. Interestingly, the instructions for that Bluetooth adapter also say that two simultaneous connections are possible, but I haven't been able to get it to work either. Bluetooth is just bad.
I'm not discounting the problem at all. I completely agree.
Have you looked at the car Bluetooth adapters?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0769DXZTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.L33AbA1WWYSD
I don't endorse that one specifically, but I've been using one for years in my car. Automatically connects when I get in, they're pretty excellent.
Maybe you could get an updated Bluetooth dongle thing for the cars aux? Like this one?
You can use something like this to get Bluetooth, it's what I use.
TaoTronics Bluetooth Car Kit, Bluetooth Receiver, Bluetooth 4.2 Hands-Free Audio Adapter (Built-in Microphone, CVC 6.0 Noise Cancellation, 3M Magnetic Base, Air Vent Clip, Dual 2.1A USB Car Charger) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0769DXZTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.DiSDbT4SGVTF
I’m not sure it works with cars that have built in Bluetooth, but I bought this Bluetooth adapter of Amazon. Plugs into my Aux port. Then it shows up in the Bluetooth settings on the Watch itself. Pair to it, then I was able to start pairing. If you car has built in Bluetooth I would start there and try, but I can’t speak to any results.
Here's my setup:
I do not even take my phone out of my pocket. Before you try this, see if your power source (the cigarette lighter?) turns off when the ignition is off. if not, you'll have to plug/unplug the thing every time you get in the car and that can be annoying. My honda turns it off, so it's perfect for me.
Get this.
https://smile.amazon.com/TaoTronics-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Microphone-Cancellation/dp/B0769DXZTV/
You can run the wires behind the dashboard to keep the cables out of the way. Personally, I put a car power adapter back up there too. The only thing that is visible is the control interface.
This shit's amazing. Added benefit, you won't get charging frequencies / noise / static feedback playing back on audio while you're charging.
You'll want something like this then
Option 1
Option 2
I'm in a similar situation, but I have an adapter that I have to press a button to pair to the phone. So I start the car, phone connects to car Bluetooth, then I press the adapter and it connects to it. Somehow audio goes through the adapter and calls automatically go to my car. I didn't do anything special, it's been that way since day one. Can't find my specific adapter but it's similar to this one.
I got this one and was very happy with it BlueSkySea B1W
BlueSkySea B1W is affordable, on sale at $40 right now on amazon.com and may fit your needs....has all your request built in
For more reviews and suggestions...goto www.dashcamtalk.com
Here’s my setup, it’s expensive but having the piece of mind is worth every penny.
I have the Blueskysea B1W. It’s $55 on Amazon and has a nice app where you can view and download video.
> BlueskySea B1W
Check it. It fails a lot, just like my old G1W, which should have been a good one, but wasn't.
Like I said, it's a ripoff, it isn't good. I don't know what else to tell you.
Get a reputable cam, good card, be done. BlueSkySea is pretty shit.
Wait, shoot, I just realized there are two subs. There's /r/dashcams, and there's /r/dashcam.
The singular one is way more active, and its suggestions might be better. It's suggesting one for $55. https://www.amazon.com/Blueskysea-Recorder-Rotatable-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B0773FXVKL
It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!
Here is link number 1 - Previous text "B1W"
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^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete
https://www.amazon.com/Blueskysea-B1W-Recorder-Rotatable-Recording/dp/B0773FXVKL?th=1&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-Included-Optional-included-Certified/dp/B01M28B92C
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Author: /u/ohNole
Title: I purchased a phone charger off of Amazon and it broke my phone.
Original Post:
> The charger in question is here. I plugged my phone in and it went black after a few minutes, then went into this cycle of showing the Apple screen then going black again - over and over until it died. Tried the phone this morning and to no avail - same thing. My phone's battery is shot, the home button/finger scanner is not functioning due to lack of power (can't do hard reset), and the phone won't turn on.
> At the least I want Amazon to cover the price of the replacement battery (if that's the solution), but what happens if the phone is shot? Is amazon liable? The page even specifically says, "Smart output current pairs all cellphone and tablet, safely charging to your device without damage to the battery."
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What you could do, it's not the most recommended solution, but you could buy one of these Bluetooth to FM transmitter. One like this.
Basically, you connect your phone to it using bluetooth, and the device then creates an FM signal you can tune in to with your radio. They're not the best probably, but they're cheap and will work in every car that has a cigarette lighter and an FM radio.
=
I bought one for my Mazda 6 since the radio I have is not compatible with the AUX mod and it works great.
The only real problem is that it's pretty prone to interference. If you're playing on frequency 99.90, but there's another channel on or near that frequency as well you're gonna have interference.
I just put mine to the lowest frequency it would go, noone broadcasts there over there so sound quality is great.
I have this one and it works like a charm while being way less bully than a lot of alternatives. It also has fast charging.
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-FM-Transmitter-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B07F2RTN5Z/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=car+bluetooth+fm+transmitter&amp;qid=1571348386&amp;smid=A1UG625Q3HPL82&amp;sprefix=car+blue&amp;sr=8-3
direct u/mnluxury11 spam-bypassing link
Please report this post and user u/mnluxury11 to the mods for breaking the rules for personal profit.
You should look into something like this then!
on my 2015 S I ended up using a BT --> FM adapter for my podcasts.
something like:
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-FM-Transmitter-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B07F2RTN5Z
it mostly worked fine (music sounded like ass)
Yes absolutely. Highly doubt they would believe I hit a couch on the highway haha.
I have this one... APEMAN Dash Cam 1080P FHD DVR Car Driving Recorder 3 Inch LCD Screen 170° Wide Angle, G-Sensor, WDR, Parking Monitor, Loop Recording, Motion Detection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLG9GFG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nqvKDbMH5K4JS
Best part is that it locks the 5 minutes if it detects a collision, using vibration I think.
they are not. the second one is exactly what you are asking for https://www.amazon.com/Blueskysea-Recorder-Rotatable-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B0773FXVKL best value B1W no gps connects to phone.
Just bought on Amazon, just make sure if you do get one, it has a capacitor and not a battery. It'll suffer the Texas heat better. The one i have is cheap, but it works well enough until I upgrade to a higher quality that has both front and rear cameras.
This is the one i got. Works well. And very easy to install.
APEMAN Dash Cam 1080P FHD DVR Car Driving Recorder 3inch LCD Screen 170°Wide Angle, G-Sensor, WDR, Parking Monitor, Loop Recording, Motion Detection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLG9GFG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DjmkDbMC7VEQT
Le Dashcam for $31.99 APEMAN Dash Cam 1080P FHD DVR Car Driving Recorder 3 Inch LCD Screen 170° Wide Angle, G-Sensor, WDR, Parking Monitor, Loop Recording, Motion Detection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLG9GFG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rhnqDbQBPN2XQ
yeah! as for a dash cam, i have a $40 one from amazon that works amazing. maybe something like this drones are a little more pricey, but i’m sure this would be a good price range.
For his sleep: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XC5NR52/ref=psdc_10671043011_t3_B01ICK7ZHU & https://www.walgreens.com/store/c/zzzquil-nighttime-sleep-aid-warming-berry/ID=prod6113873-product
For his achy calves: https://www.amazon.com/Air-Compression-Calf-Leg-Massager/dp/B07R6Q957V/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=6PEK8DBDLC5I&amp;keywords=leg+massager&amp;qid=1570115189&amp;s=home-garden&amp;sprefix=leg+mass%2Cgarden%2C240&amp;sr=1-3-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyQlBZUzhEQU1WVjNDJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTIwMzkwRU5XTFpPTUVVUVRKJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1ODE4MDExMlhMSzNZTjdNM1NOJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
The current government state: https://www.amazon.com/Donald-Trump-Toilet-Paper-Presidential/dp/B079HHSTSS/ref=sr_1_4?crid=183IFKQ358DKV&amp;keywords=trump+toilet+paper&amp;qid=1570115305&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=trump+toil%2Cgarden%2C247&amp;sr=8-4
People texting and driving: https://www.amazon.com/APEMAN-Recorder-170%C2%B0Wide-Recording-Detection/dp/B07DLG9GFG/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=104QZU4N9VVVG&amp;keywords=dash+cam&amp;qid=1570115350&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=dash+cam%2Caps%2C241&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFPNTdOUzhUSDlDN0UmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA5MjQ5ODUzTlFMQVg4WjczRFZKJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyMDg0NTEzS0QwWjROMlJOWEdPJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
Generally pretty satisfied with this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076GYGVY5/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_u1YTDbD6X6EWW
Bought this one first and was dissatisfied with the image quality so I returned it:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLG9GFG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_U2YTDbM3D46BQ
If your looking for cheap i went with this one on amazon and it hasnt had a problem yet
APEMAN Dash Cam 1080P FHD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLG9GFG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_82LWCbZTWZ325
Like others have said bluetooth fm transmitters are the way to go. Here’s what I have in both my cars
I would think about a radio transmitter like this:
[](Bluetooth FM Transmitter for Car, QC3.0 Wireless Bluetooth FM Radio Adapter Music Player Car Kit with Hands Free Calling and 2 USB Ports Charger Support USB Flash Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2RTN5Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_r-vxCbEZJNJH1)
As long as your radio works
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2RTN5Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oE15CbMQQK46J
What about a decent Bluetooth radio transmitter?
I have recently bought this and it works perfectly.
Also, if you are in the US, use this website to find the best station in your area
http://elecurls.tripod.com/fm-free.htm
You could possible look into getting a bluetooth fm transmitter (example). This will allow you to connect your phone to the bluetooth fm tranmitter then you could use the radio to transmit your sound from your phone.
Bluetooth FM Transmitter
If there is an aux plug somewhere you could plug your phone in there. Otherwise get a “car radio adapter for phone”, which converts your phone’s audio to an fm station, like this one.
Hopefully you have a smartphone with music? If you’re wedded to cds and have an aux port you could use a portable cd player, but this is probably the right time to join the 21st century.
https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Pieces-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B01E5E5IY4
Product descriptionPackage included: 20 * cable clips (with 5 different size included) for cord with 3/ 5/ 7/ 9/ 13 mm inner diameter
Helps reduce EMI on AC power lines. Black plastic enclosed ferrite core for 5 mm AC power cords. **Great for cutting noise on USB, firewire, phone, power cord, coaxial, audio, video cables, etc.**This rectangle ferrite Bead can be widely used in a variety of Data cables, USB cable, telephone line, network line to **shield external electromagnetic interference.**Easy to install with double snap clips; Reduce electro-magnetic interference and improve signal integrity. Easy structure and convenient installation. Just clip it on and you will get clearer signal and faster data transmission.
First, replace the head unit. You can do this for less than $100. Example: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130X6800BS/Pioneer-DEH-X6800BS.html?tp=5684&amp;avf=Y order this and you'll get the dash kit and wiring harness for free.
Next, add some bass. Get this subwoofer/amp combo, it's the best you'll get on a budget. With a new head unit, you'll get RCA outputs for the sub.
Actually go with the G1W-C. It has a capacitor instead of a battery.
Here is a test footage.
http://www.amazon.com/G1W-C-1080P-H-264-Capacitor-Model/dp/B00JJ3SQRI/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1407818037&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=g1wc
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0739RGDFJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lB6TCb588FQJF
I haven't personality tried these, but
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-FM-Transmitter-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B07F2RTN5Z/
For $20 you can get a Bluetooth adapter that works in any car. Why would you need an aux cable?