(Part 2) Best dash cams & navigation electronics according to redditors
We found 14,475 Reddit comments discussing the best dash cams & navigation electronics. We ranked the 3,305 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
[Reposting a shorter version of the video] The driver of the white car had his friend come to the scene of the accident and give a false report to the police officer, making himself a “witness to the accident“. The cop interviewed both of them first and then came to me, I told him that I had dash cam video but he wanted me to explain what happened first. I did and the officer looked very confused and asked to see the video. Apparently, the driver who hit me and his made up a wild story about me driving erratically and weaving in and out of lanes, ultimately ramming into his car. The officer was very close to criminally charging the “witness“ for providing false testimony to a police officer. Needless to say, the driver of the white car was cited for the accident and I was not. The officer did say that the DashCam video saved me from being at fault as he would have had to rely on the driver and “witness“ account of the accident which was wildly different from what actually happened.
Edit: I’m using the Roav DashCam A1, by Anker
So get a dash cam with a rear camera?
Edit: For those citing cost. This is the one I own. You'll have a fugly wire running to the back of your car, but imo it's worth it.
With that said always check your local laws to ensure they're legal.
Viofo A129, front and back cams. There’s also the Viofo A119 that’s just the front one
got mine for $100 off Amazon. records both front and rear, love it!
AUKEY Dual Dash Cam HD 1080P Front and Rear Camera
It was $97 when i bought it in July but looks like it's $130 now. still a great camera for the money.
Sure, absolutely! If you are interested, I'm going to write something up and post it with more details on what I did, but here is the parts list:
Parts List:
Pi Model B: http://www.microcenter.com/product/414588/Raspberry_Pi_Model_B
LCD: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045IIZKU/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Control PCB: http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/common-ground-dmg-button-pcb
3W Audio Amplifier: http://www.ebay.com/itm/221352271996?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Retropie (Emulation): http://blog.petrockblock.com/retropie/
You need a dash cam. After 2 hit and runs I got one. The last two people who hit me got to buy my car cool new stuff. The g1w-c is good and is around 55-65 on Amazon. The cheaper ones will be low quality fakes. Transcend 32gb micro sd cards seem to work the best.
I linked what I have below. There are two color choices. The black would be less noticeable.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MIO2KRC
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P8F3LD0
G1W Black Box
Cheap enough to get two, one forward facing, and one to face the rear. All you need to buy is a memory card and you're set. Remember to remove the protective film off the lens before using!
here are acouple ones to consider
Dual cameras
single camera
Not Cheap
You can already get them for $200. https://www.amazon.com/Akitio-AMZ-T2PC-TIA-AKTU-Thunder2-PCIe/dp/B00LTAUTHE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472936166&sr=8-1&keywords=thunderbolt+pcie+enclosure
The issue is that very, very few people actually want one.
He's using the Falcon Zero F360 HD DVR drive cam. The left camera is suppose to face the driver. I use this when I drive for Lyft or Uber. I sometimes have both cameras face forward but line them up so it's a solid wide view. Not a bad price for a discreet drive cam.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E56WY18/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496702909&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Falcon+Zero+F360+HD+DVR&dpPl=1&dpID=41HcYxHvzcL&ref=plSrch
Roav Dashcam A1
Roav DashCam A1, by Anker, Dash Cam, Dashboard Camera Recorder, 1080P FHD, Nighthawk Vision, Wide-Angle View, WiFi, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording, and Night Mode https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076GYGVY5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1uoBCbT13V6AG
Actually, what OP wants is a "high endurance" card. They are made specifically to take the constant temperature changes and overwriting of recordings. Regular cards don't hold up in dash cams at all, and it makes people think the cams are shit. You just need to use the proper card.
I use this one and it's good: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B9KTLJZ/
Additionally, I use a set with dual cameras, and it works great: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B075S7W6FR/
Plenty of options:
Versatile: Mobius ($70-100 USD) (Requires separate purchase: Power cable or hardwire kit + Micro SD card + adhesive Mount) + recommended purchase Super capacitor - Good video quality, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. No wifi/cellphone app. - This isn't the best dash cam in the world, but it is one of the smaller ones. It was made for the drone world, and repurposed for the dash cam world. Lacks Cloud feature. - No GPS - Lacks G sensor (because it is part of the drone world)
Budget Dual Cams:
Last year's Flagship Dual Cams:
This year's Flagship Dual Cams:
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Just to complicate things a bit more: BlackVue 1CH dash cams can not be upgraded to 2 CH. They will lack the rear camera port, as the 1CH dash cams are physically different than the 2CH versions.
Thinkware dash cams which have 1CH/2CH versions can be upgraded from 1 CH -> 2CH.
Look around for the best price. - Standard copy pasta.
Aukey duel dash cam. It was the highest quality duel cam set up that also shot 1080p30 that I found at the time of purchase earlier this year. It has insanely high quality low-light capabilities and was a wicked easy set up. Highly suggest it.
I've got two installed, the second one is for the rear both 32GB sd cards and hardwired with the ignition.
Dash cams installed
The front cam is a high heat capacitor, the previous ones I had lasted just past the two-year warranty, the Texas heat blows the battery up even under covered parking. It works fine for the price, up close you'll see plate numbers any movement not so much. Things do look farther away than they seem.
Real world videos
Beltway 8 Benz driver speeding
Benz driver getting cop karma
The rear cam is a cheap $25 Amazon lighting deal, now it is like $39 colors are muted, you can see if someone was on their phone at least.
If you want high end your Go Pro Black series is your choice and there are tons of Youtube videos on different budget priced cams.
I will tell you that the dumptrucks with the sign "we're not responsible for your windsheild", they are when you are three cars behind, didn't secure their load and you have video of their truck lossing rocks left and right.
Get something to protect you while driving and do not infrom any drivers when you're in an accident that you have a cam, let the insurance company catch them in a lie.
This is the one I have:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M592J9C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I haven't looked into them in a couple of years so there may be better options by now. I like this one though because it's fairly cheap (I don't care about the bells & whistles others have), and some of the parts are made by Sony. It's also lasted through a couple of GA summers, so it seems to be reliable.
This is a pretty cheap one I got on sale for about $42, works great! 1080p 30fps or 720p 60 fps
When you plug in the Switch power cord, you're going to get buzzing because of a ground loop. You'll need one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Wide-Angle-G-Sensor-Dual-Port-Charger/dp/B075S7W6FR/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549836433&sr=8-5&keywords=aukey+dash+cam
Same, been looking at the A129 though my A119 has been great. (Get a High Endurance card also, I run a Transcend. Bought a couple Samsung EVOs because that was all that was available locally, died within 6 months. This has been going a year and a half).
Protip: As a first dashcam:
Low budget: Yi Dashcam
Mid: Viofo A119
High: Viofo A129
Highest: Some Streetguardian/Blackvue shit with park assist and beams info to your phone if someone breathes on your car, at that level you should probably do some research.
There's a LOT of them out there but they use mostly the same components rebranded (Rexing, et al). I like these, just my opinion.
Edit: /r/Dashcam /r/roadcam
And if you want more security, I have the Roav (Anker) camera for my vehicle and really like it. It will even turn on if you vehicle is off if something hits it. And, for a good quality camera, it's relatively inexpensive.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076GYGVY5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Most dashcams record 24/7. I'd go on r/dashcam and find a good one. The one OP linked doesn't have the greatest reviews. This one
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Dashboard-Camera-Recorder-6-Lane/dp/B01M592J9C
Seems good
Edit: or the ROAV A1 someone else posted is good too. Really, if it has 25+ reviews and it has above 4 stars it’s probably pretty good. Watch some YouTube videos of the video quality just to make sure though
I couldn't find an affordable buttkicker brand package but I did find a great amp and transducer on amazon for 2/3 the price of the Gamer 2 (cheapest buttkicker) at just about $100. It works fantastically! I'll post links to the products if you care to see them.
Edit:
AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer by Aura Sound
Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output by Lepai
12v 6a Adapter Power Supply for LCD Monitor with Power Cord by LCD AC Power Adapter
https://www.amazon.com/Falcon-Zero-F360-HD-Mirror/dp/B00E56WY18
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075S7W6FR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mVlTCb0QGG3JH
I recommend buying the gps as well:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072BPP411/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jWlTCb7B3FYKM
It's the Anker Roav A1 Dashcam that I had replace my old Mobius action camera due to a sun-damaged lens.
Buy a decent dashcam and you can maybe catch a plate if you're ever in another hit-and-run. They're also great for when the other driver decides to lie about the details of the accident. That's happened to me, and I really wish I had a dashcam then.
Here's a good one for $50. The sidebar on /r/Dashcam also has good recommendations, including some for dual cameras, which record both front and rear.
Went with this, Rexing V1P. Did a good amount of research, this had the best amount of good reviews and good customer service response, as well as solid features. I will be hardwiring it into my car as well with their hardwire kit.
yes! I have that! hold on let me find it
is this what you're looking for?
This is why I'm glad I just picked up a dashcam.. Columbus idiots out in full force this morning...
Edit.. because some asked.. It's a VIOFO A119S with a Transcend 32gb card. Mounted to windshield.
I am glad it is since I live out here.
Thankfully they finally banned distracted driving now down here so no more people on their phones or doing shit when they are driving. We have enough of an issue with elderly or illegals driving around getting into accidents. But now we can cut down on the accidents once they start enforcing the distracted driving.
I noticed the driving out here is much more dangerous than in other places of the country. I had to invest in a dashcam system for my POV to protect myself.
https://www.amazon.com/V1P-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B01EX8ATKK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501646399&sr=8-2&keywords=rexing
For anyone curious to a good dashcam. It has survived the AZ heat which is awesome.
AUKey DR01. Got it on an amazon deal day a few weeks ago. First clip I've saved. Was cheap, great 'first dashcam' option for me. Found a power kit that I tapped into the cigarette lighter wiring, ran cable around the windshield to hide. Wish I could do a rear camera easily, but it's a convertible and I'm not about to go crazy with my 2-month old Benz. Maybe when my debt ratio decreases.
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Dashboard-Camera-Recorder-6-Lane/dp/B01M592J9C
Definately invest in a dashcam so you essentially have the absolute truth. None of this your story / their story. A dashcam costs ~130 dollars that has front / rear cameras and another ~40 dollars for a fuse tap kit you can hook up to the car's fuse by the drivers side. Having a cam just saves you the headache of going back and forth with the insurance for them to find out who is at fault.
Although the BRZ / FRS does have a hidden cigarette lighter in the glove box so you do not need the fuse tap kit. You can also do it in such a way where you will see minimal wires by tucking wires into the A pilar, etc.
5 days after installing a dashcam in my fiance's BRZ she gets in an accident that proved was not her fault.
Here's how you protect yourself with little cost:
Dash cam from Amazon
I just got one. Really nice piece of mind.
I just bought mine from here Amazon Prime Link
I found it in the OP's thread that this is crossposted from, he said it was one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFAK888/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
OP's Camera: Aukey DR02 D
Says it in the lower left text overlay.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFAK888/ref=sxts_kp_lp_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=AuDSi&pf_rd_r=HVEJVV06V2A2FRX090Z7&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B01MFAK888&pd_rd_w=PbXKk&pf_rd_i=viofo+a119s+v2&pd_rd_r=99254f5e-1c94-46cd-8fbf-29279992d8b8&ie=UTF8&qid=1542719098&sr=2
I'd highly recommend the ROAV A1. It's only $50 right now with a coupon and it's a great cam.
If you're looking for something a bit higher-end with GPS capabilities, better video quality, and an interior-facing camera, I'd highly recommend the AKASO Trace 1 Pro. That's $110 right now with a coupon. This is my current cam right now and it's awesome.
This is what I have:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076GYGVY5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And there is a 15% coupon. It is solid, has good enough quality and performs well at night.
Oh yeah, main reason I bought mine is because I got into an accident, the person that hit me admits to it to myself, others involved and police. Then gives his insurance a different story which made the process even longer. He eventually was determined at fault but it would of saved so much time.
I use this: https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-A119S-DashCam-included-Novatek/dp/B01MFAK888
Tucked away behind my rear view mirror and automatically turns on when electronics turn on in my car. I have it plugged into USB though I might plug it into a fuse. I never think about it until I want to grab a video off of it.
/r/dashcam has good suggestions.
Be warned. My Switch gave awful feedback when I went from headphones out to line in on my PC. I had to buy this to get rid of the feedback.
Aukey Dash Cam
I have the G1WH. It's not fancy, but it records 1080p video on a loop to a MicroSD and it's only $50. I suggest the rear view mirror stem mount, the suction cup mount that comes with it is slightly shitty.
For Dota you really should be set with just what's in your macbook. I know you can definitely run all of the borderlands games on that hardware as well, but an eGPU will certainly let you max it out and get higher performance. I am currently running a 980 off of my MacBook Air and it's delightful.
At this stage of eGPUs with macs there are a couple things to keep in mind. First, there is no out-of-the-box solution yet that isn't a ripoff. Most will require a little bit of tinkering, especially the cheaper solutions. This is not at all to discourage you, as there are a lot of great guides and some great communities, but just as a warning. Secondly, you won't be able to get the performance you're looking for on the internal display, you'll need to run it through an external monitor.
For your $300-400 budget, I would advise you to get the AKiTiO Thunder2 Thunderbolt to PCIe expansion chassis. It's $189 and is probably exactly what you need. It requires a very small modification to be able to power a desktop GPU, and if you get a card that has low enough power consumption you can run it all through a special Dell power brick (DA-2)with very minimal modification. The whole solution is actually relatively portable if you chose this option. So that puts you at ~$200-250 for the setup, then all you need is a graphics card.
I am quite partial to Nvidia, but they can run slightly more expensive, but they have other bonuses. Nevertheless, do your own research on what kind of card you want, from what you said anything from the 7xx and 9xx series would work for you, but honestly so could a couple 6xx series cards. As I said I'm not too knowledgeable on AMD so do some research when picking out your card on both fronts, just make sure it's power consumption will work with the set-up.
I am a huge eGPU advocate and if anything wasn't clear feel free to PM me or whatever and I'm more than happy to discuss it. If you're not keen on that, TechInferno has what is arguably the best eGPU community and knowledge/support base around. Definitely check them out regardless as they have a ton of guides and people probably in your same situation that will give you an idea of what you're looking at time/money/difficulty wise.
Cheers!
Edit - added links
This won't help you in your current situation but I highly suggest that EVERYONE get a dashcam for their vehicle... specifically this one. It's $60 and is designed for high temperature environments. I made a post just like yours back in May and someone suggested I get a dashcam... so I did. Luckily I haven't had any incidents since then but the peace of mind is well worth the $$$. Good luck getting this sorted out!
I've had a couple uber drivers rocking one of these:
http://amzn.com/B00E56WY18
The nice thing is that it captures both the front and rear view. If you're looking for one that's not mounted on the mirror and more discreet, Innov makes a great system that's perfect for both motorcycles and cars but a wee bit pricier:
http://www.innovv.com/#!the-k1/c3r6
This might be a better option if you want to solely use it as a dash cam.
I got myself a dash cam for situations like these. Nothing has happened to me yet but when it does I'll be glad I have a dash cam.
This is the one I bought: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HMNFWYW/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_evDkub0WEJGG6. It records crystal clear and super smooth 1080p video, and turns on and off with the car.
A119 is a great deal, <$100. I disagree with the "wouldn't spend less than $150" comment.
Fitting them is fairly easy. Power is the tricky part. If you have a lighter socket that switches on/off with ignition you can route the cable to it. The better, but more bother, alternative is a hard wiring kit to the fusebox.
Edit: https://dashcamtalk.com is a good source of information.
The new recommended one at /r/dashcam is the A119 I think. I bought the Black Box G1W-C before the A119 came out, and it was only $40 on Amazon, and runs perfectly. Only downside, is it's made by a Chinese company, and although the menu is in english, it's about as intuitive of a menu as you can expect from a Chinese company.
Link to the A119
Honestly, I almost have enough saved clips to make a video of stupid shit. So I'll post that eventually.
Edit: Also, it has been suggested, that if you get into an accident, and the other person starts lying to the cops, let them. Then pull out the footage and show them, get them caught in a lie, and bam, case closed.
Get a dashcam, turn it to you, and mention it if you're ever asked to leave your car (for approx. 10 minutes after turning off the engine). It records full audio.
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-C-Capacitor-Dashboard/dp/B00P8F3LD0/
It can at least calm your fears.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075S7W6FR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Love my roav
Anker Roav DashCam A1, Dash Cam for Car, Driving Recorder, 1080p FHD LCD Screen, Nighthawk Vision, Wide Angle Lens, Wi-Fi, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording, Night Mode, Motion Detection, Dedicated App https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076GYGVY5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7x2MDbSK1MZCG
I know it's not exactly WRX related but it will save you thousands one day if you get into a wreck
This Anker Roav cam was $65.Hell of a lot cheaper than a new Hawkeye WRX Wagon
Now on sale for $56
Dashcam is a cheap way to have an extra peace of mind. Definitely recommend it. Also they are low maintenance. I don’t ever notice mine because it sits in front in rear view mirror.
Regarding the price, I say go for a mid range. The cheapo ones can be unreliable and low build quality. The expensive ones tend to be too much and more than what most people need. A good mid range dual cam is the A129. Make sure to get a good SD card too, one that is optimized for video. Fortunately they are pretty cheap.
Installation is easy if you just plug it to your cigarette lighter. Then you just run the cable in your trim, which is super easy to tuck into at the edge.
The next level is hardwiring it to your fuse box. That takes about an hour and can be done with a YouTube video instructional. Or take it into a car audio shop and they can probably do it for $150 or so.
Hope this helps!
I currently use a Spy Tec A118 (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZ0GKVS) that looks pretty good during the day but the nighttime quality is not that great. When I have the funds I'll be upgrading to the Street Guardian SG9965GC (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00U0OJMYG) as it's the same exact form factor as the A118 but has much better internals, which in turns results in better nighttime footage.
Here's a great detailed report of the SG9965GC: https://dashcamtalk.com/sg9665gc/. One of my friends just installed this dashcam and it's definitely worth the upgrade.
A ground loop isolator, this is the one I bought
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Ground-Isolator-Systems-Included/dp/B01L1NP7YI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519603050&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=ground+loop+isolator
Be aware that in a lot of situations you may hear a humming/buzzing noise caused by ground loop issue. You can fix this(as i have) by getting a ground isolator like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L1NP7YI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Thanks for doing this, it helps.
4c.) I don't believe this was ever brought up during our discussions, but I had mentioned on stream that I always have my laptop up now right next to me with the stream to check the quality and potentially type back to viewers during down moments in the runs. I specifically had mentioned during the PSIII run where this moment happened that I was going to use my left hand to ban the user on my laptop (easy with a mouse) while still performing the button actions with my right. Incredibly simple to do when the fight calls for pressing one button to initiate your battle actions, and when they're all the same (no d-pad movement required). It's pretty clear with the amount of time I took to do this that I was doing it while the fight was ongoing, and maneuvering the mouse with my left hand on laptop to ban while attacks were being performed (nothing but waiting during this time).
4d.) This also wasn't brought up during the discussion, but again this is a common issue I would face where my audio from my microphone would be a couple seconds earlier than the stream output w/ audio, or sometimes 2 seconds later. It happens pretty frequently and only started happening more frequently once I changed to the low latency mode in Twitch (not sure if any correlation between the two).
4e.) I don't feel that my explanation was illogical during this at all. When I stream via Nintendo Switch (for the Sega Ages Phantasy Star I run), I have my capture card set to output to my PC speakers. This allows me to have my Switch output audio through my PC speakers without any delay, and also allows me to plug in my headphones directly to my main control unit of my Logitech Z906 speakers and avoid having to use an extension cable for headphones to my Switch. Within Streamlabs, I typically only had my Nintendo Switch output audio as I was using a headphone cable directly to my PC gaming monitor (that I use for the Switch as well). When I reconfigured all of this to bypass the monitor and go straight into the Z906, I forgot that I now needed to output speaker audio to the stream instead of just the Switch audio capture. I mentioned during this that I needed a specific ground loop noise isolator in order to perform the monitor bypass which can be found here but I think that may have been too much information and given too much truncation to make sense during the course of discussion.
4f.) I agree this was strange, but I typically only did one run per day streamed given the little time I have to stream (as mentioned at the beginning of each run usually). I have three children, one of which is 2 months old - I would typically do a run starting at 9pm and if I couldn't finish, then I just stopped the stream. Waking up at 5am to a newborn means no sleep, so 1 run was generally my max.
4g.) I agree, it was insane luck. I've had plenty of streamed runs over the last few months with insane luck as well - the WR runs were typically when everything fell in line. I have no explanation behind this but VODs still exist, so I can't help but think it's strange that everything I had ever done over the last few months was just a splicing ruse.
4h.) This also wasn't brought up during the discussion as far as I can remember. I was more than fine with the individual in question looking into this, and my only potential defensive stance on this point at the time was that I was trying to explain the various ambush rate percentages being such an incredibly low sample size as the user was comparing 3 different runs, all with wildly different rates of encounters and ambushes. I had mentioned during this conversation that if there's a 5% variance or less than it would be considered statistically insignificant based on scientific findings, and was met with quite a bit of hostility in pointing this out.
Sorry for the lengthy reply, just wanted to put this out here as well.
I have one of these wired to come on with the ignition. I've only had it in for a couple of months. Works great so far. I probably should have a rear facing camera too, but I figure front facing context is better than nothing at all.
Check out /r/dashcam for conversation about cameras and /r/roadcam for footage.
Probably possible. Not sure if it would be worth it. A dash cam with motion detection and an additional battery might be enough to ease you worries. I had one installed and it makes me feel a little better.
These were taken from https://www.reddit.com/r/Dashcam/
Best cam recommendations
Best value:
Best value Dual cams:
Budget dash cams:
Budget Dual Cams:
Dual Cams:
Speaking of dash cam, I highly recommend this one! I've had it two years now and it works great, hot summer days and blistering cold winters. The quality is 1080p, front AND back at 30fps. But don't skimp on the memory card. I got this beauty and haven't had a complaint since my last card, which was cheaper, went out on it. The only issue is it will hold 10 hours of footage. But you see everything in these recordings!
My current dash cam.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076GYGVY5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6grkDbNC6FVQY
If you want to spend double you can get GPS and MPH tracking as well.
Video I took with it. https://www.reddit.com/r/IdiotsInCars/comments/bri8vk/and_todays_award_for_eager_merger_goes_to_this_guy/
You'll have to invest in the Viseeo Tune2Air.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B52LLJ6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1457046860&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=viseeo+tune2air&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41TAudBjpFL&amp;ref=plSrch
I used the G1W-H($54.99) to take this video of a meteor I made a thread about over ago now. Basically the most recommended camera in the price range at the time and I've been happy with it. I did buy a different mount that I could cling it to my rear view mirror.
I know this won't help for your current situation, but consider getting a dash cam. Here's a reasonable one for ~$60.
What about the Monoprice DAC/amp? Not sure if it's available out there but it's not a bad unit with pre and lineout
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVVX2QW/
>This entire thread is entirely about price.
Great, my comments aren't.
>What I wrote was entirely true. It's only untrue when you failed to recognize the clear distinctions I'd made.
Your distinction was that no single external drive on the market is able to saturate 10Gbps, because you were under the false assumption that an external NVMe SSD doesn't exist. That's literally what you said. That's what I'm quoting right here, once again:
>AFAIK, there is no (external) drive on the market able to saturate 3.1 gen 2, and probably won't be for some time. Saturating it requires RAID, the fastest of NVME SSD's in a (non existent?) external NVME enclosure, or a large number of extremely high data rate peripherals.
Once again, that's not true. That right there is a single drive, and its capable of saturating over 10Gbps. So once again... you're wrong.
>Where again can we buy an NVME enclosure in which to place a Samsung 960 pro?
Exactly.
I literally just linked it to you in my previous post. What is your deal man? It's right here. Click on it. That is an external enclosure that full supports a Samsung 960 Pro.
I have hardwired Mini0801 and Mini0805 cams in my vehicle. Can't run them without A/C during the summer where I live, but they run 24/7 during the cooler months. I have an AUX fuse block in the engine bay, so I just ran them off that and connected to them via the proper USB converter. A converter like this would work well if you go my route.
As for letting the other guy know how much his parking job sucks, I use the Parking Turtle. I keep a couple copies behind the seat in a pocket. Yeah, it is petty, but someone needs to call some of these assholes out. I doubt they'll "see the light" and park correctly, but oh well...
I had the same issue and discovered it was the hardwire kit and not the camera after I dug through reviews and bought a different brand kit.
I originally bought the Spytec one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MH4ZVHO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Worked fine for two days and then would reboot constantly when it got cold.
I replaced it with this EDO Tech one and have had no problems in since. Note, the USB side of the cable on the EDO Tech is a bit shorter than the Spytec. Measure your length needed to make sure it fits okay.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L3XXRI0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Get two, one for each windshield.
My Dashcam turns off when I turn off my car. So it wouldn't have been on anyway. But having a dashcam is essential. You should get one.
-edit- My dashcam has those same functions and I bought the hardwire kit but it is connected to 12v switched so it doesn't drain my battery.
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-CB-Capacitor-Camera/dp/B00P8F3LD0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492953868&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=g1w-cb
Just a warning. It's pricey. https://www.amazon.com/Street-Guardian-SG9665GC-microSD-Supercapacitor/dp/B00U0OJMYG
This doesn't seem to be an uncommon problem. It's likely a ground loop issue related to less-than-optimal shielding. Some guy got his replaced and it came back fixed, however this tends to be a rather common issue with such thin devices, so I wouldn't get my hopes too high on a replacement being much better. I also have this problem, but got one of these and it fixed it wonderfully. While it would be nice to not need an external filter to carry around (though it's quite small), I'm perfectly happy with this solution. I've also found that turning on the 'lower headphone output' option in system settings makes it a lot less audible.
I guess installed is a strong word for "attached to my windshield with a suction cup." I got this camera which is pretty cheap and the video is good quality. There are some minor issues as noted in some reviews but it is a great deal IMO
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P8F3LD0?psc=1&amp;smid=A3BVA1L98F0PER
G1W dash cam. The one with the capacitor so the battery doesn't blow up.
Review
Amazon link
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P8F3LD0 - down to $58. I bought it over a year ago so I would do some research and get a better one possibly. Don't get me wrong though, this one is perfectly fine.
I got this one. So far it has been working well, though the suction cup takes several tries to stay stuck. It's usually the one recommended if you want a playback screen.
Yep. I got nailed by a guy who backed into me as I sat in a drive-thru this morning. His tone totally changed when I pointed to the dash cam. Totally trashed the rear bumper of his sedan, but only put a little scuff on the bumper of my rig.
Edit: my camera. Does the job.
Check out the SG9665GC V3, it's right in your ballpark.
Dual channels are better. What happens in the back of your car is also important. I recommend the Aukey DR02 D. It's the best budget dual setup that is reliable, good in any weather, has a stealthy look, and has good customer service support and a long 2-yr warranty. One thing to consider is that this device does not really support parking mode. I'd watch this and this review of the camera if you're really interested. To iterate the importance of a rear camera, here's a really stupid crash that I captured just a few days ago.
E: formatting
Weather was clear when the accident happened.
We use the Viofo A129 seen here which has a front and back camera. We haven't had to use it (thankfully), but the images are clear enough for me. I do need to move the rear dash cam down more as it's above the defrost lines.
I would highly recommend it as a sub-$200 dash cam.
It's a Viofo A119S. It records 60fps @ 1080p. If you choose this model, make sure you get Version 2. The version 1 had problems with getting sufficient power from USB, causing GPS to not work and spontaneous reboots.
What kind of cam is this? I am looking at getting one for my girlfriend's car ASAP.
Here is the model I have looked at in the past.
I had the same problem in my 06 sr5, I ordered a ground loop isolator and it made a huge difference. This is the one I used.
AUKEY Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Stereo Systems and Home Audio Systems, 3.5mm Audio Cable Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L1NP7YI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_k8aKBbE70D60J
I did this in my '08 Chevy impala. Use this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004CLYJ2I/ref=redir_mdp_mobile
All you have to do is plug in the cigarette lighter the and the aux plug. Read the instructions. It's fairly simple and useful. Also it can answer calls so you don't have to switch between stuff.
For extra win you can grab an NFC tag and you can program it to connect your phone and any other phone to it automatically so your friends and use their music if you want.
Source: my setup
If you have any questions whatsoever feel free to ask!! :-)
You're not going to be able to keep the cassette player. I'm sorry to break it to you, but for the same reasons you can't buy an 8-track player, you can no longer buy a cassette player. As pdb1795 said, you can always get a new stereo with CD/AUX, then use a walkman plugged into the AUX to play your tapes. But I suggest converting all your tapes to MP3 ASAP so they'll stop losing sound quality everytime you play them. Plus you'll be able to play those MP3s without a walkman on your new stereo.
New stereo (all harnesses and brackets included for free)
Amplifier
Wiring
Front Speakers
Subwoofer depends on how much bass you want and how much trunk space you're willing to sacrifice. It also sounds like you're getting it all installed professionally, which is a smart idea. So figure at least $250 for labor, likely more like $300.
For the best quality dual camera systems you will want one that records at 1080p both front and rear, and for that there doesn't seem to be anything presently available for under $200.
For under $200 and of lesser quality there are these:
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Dashboard-Accident-Recording-Detection/dp/B00LAAVVOS
http://www.amazon.com/Z-Edge-Camera-Recorder-Vehicles-Included/dp/B010H0SL9O/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464741278&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=zero+edge+dual+lens+car+camera
http://www.amazon.com/AUTO-VOX-Rearview-Recorder-Micro-SD-Included/dp/B01B4EQQXA/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464741380&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=zero+edge+dual+lens+car+camera
http://www.amazon.com/Falcon-Zero-F360-HD-Mirror/dp/B00E56WY18/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464741380&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=zero+edge+dual+lens+car+camera
http://www.amazon.com/Transcend-TS32GDP520M-Drive-Recorder-Suction/dp/B0147R9PDO
http://www.amazon.com/Dreamkiller-Camera-Mirror-4-3-inch-Display/dp/B01ABEHKSO/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464741748&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=HD+CAR+DVR+Rear+View+Mirror
http://www.amazon.com/Toguard-G-Sensor-Reversing-Detection-Function/dp/B01DG8LL4Q/ref=sr_1_3?s=car&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464741748&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=HD+CAR+DVR+Rear+View+Mirror
http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Mirror-Camera-Backup-Recording/dp/B00WR6ZQTK/ref=sr_1_4?s=car&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464741748&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=HD+CAR+DVR+Rear+View+Mirror
I have never had a dual cam setup so I would not know what to recommend. You can take a look at the options I've listed and decide for yourself. As you can see, most of them are rear view mirror type.
They exist.
http://www.amazon.com/Falcon-Zero-F360-HD-Mirror/dp/B00E56WY18?ie=UTF8&amp;*Version*=1&amp;*entries*=0
There are some that record out in front of the vehicle as well as in the car:
Do it. I use a Falcon Zero F360. It has two cameras - one facing out, one in, and it fits over your existing rear-view mirror.
I have mine set to record over a loop. If something goes down, I swap out the memory card.
I live and do most of my work in a single-party consent state. However, for when I cross over to another state, I do have stickers in the back seat that say "smile - you're on camera!"
I've never had a pax refuse to be recorded. However, I have had some ask what I do with the footage. I simply tell them, "if something crazy happens, I'll pop the memory card out and hang onto that footage. Otherwise, it all gets deleted." After I explain why I have the camera, passengers are totally down with it. Even the drunkest people understand that it's there for my safety.
http://www.amazon.com/Falcon-Zero-Incredisonic-F-360-Dual-Camera/dp/B00E56WY18
I have the Black Box dashcam that I got off Amazon. Got a 32gig microUSB for it and I plug it into the cig lighter (also plugs into USB). It turns on/off with ignition, but you could probably hardwire it into your map lights or right to the battery if you wanted.
I think it is when you can buy today one for $210
https://www.amazon.com/Akitio-AMZ-T2PC-TIA-AKTU-Thunder2-PCIe/dp/B00LTAUTHE
This is a $100 markup, for something untested, that you will have to wait for 6 months+ for.
This is the hardwire kit and this is the add a fuse
The add fuse will vary depending on the fuses your car uses.
I've had this one for 2 years now, no problems. This is a slightly newer version that has no chrome
If you're going to get one somewhere other than amazon, just make sure you're getting the G1W-C/G1W-CB. The C means it has a capacitor instead of a battery; it does better in the heat, but only is powered when your car is running (unless you wire it in to an always-on fuse).
NB: I only park out in the sun when I'm not at home or work. I have had covered parking at home and at work the entire two years I've had the camera.
How'd you hardwire it, into the rearview mirror? I thought about doing that but haven't gotten around to it.
I have the Black Box capacitor model just because it can withstand better heat supposedly. Had it for a year now and it's held up great.
Here is a link! I needed one on a budget that would stand up to the AZ summer heat. This was suggested several times but the front panel covering the display has fallen off (I think the glue melted) and it is already slightly warped where it hangs from the window. I've had just for about 2 months. Otherwise so far so good but we haven't gotten into real summer yet. amazon.com/dp/B00P8F3LD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IjX7CbQ6Q9ZHB
Clickable link
HERE is the same page, but without the sneaky referral link inserted.
Specifically this one (that page only shows the one camera and the amazon link doesn't work for me):
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Wide-Angle-G-Sensor-Dual-Port-Charger/dp/B075S7W6FR/
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Wide-Angle-G-Sensor-Dual-Port-Charger/dp/B075S7W6FR
This one is a but more expensive but it has a second camera to mount on the rear windshield as well. Might come in handy for getting rear ended and it might even capture cell phone use and stuff like that
That is a lot of money, but the magnetic removal looks good and Costco has a good return policy.
My first cam was a Garmin for a bit more than that Cobra and it's still the main cam in my DD. It's got speed/gps built in which I love.
For price though, we bought an Anker one for like $50 and it works great. It has a good and sensitive away mode that triggers if the car gets bumped which my Garmin doesn't have. Honestly, if you go with a name brand you'll be fine, or a not so known brand with good LEGIT reviews. Just gotta get that cam rolling to protect you from shitty people, and to entertain us :)
Roav DashCam A1, this one's in my wife's car, got two for front and back. $55 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B076GYGVY5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vjcRCbF7EZS2B
This one
But haven’t tried it yet so cannot vouch for it.
The screens he is referring to take a regular composite input, they are typically used with car backup camera installations. Only modification is removing the buck converter so they run on 5V.
These are commonly recommended.
I used this one, which doesn't come with a shell around it.
Bought [this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045IIZKU/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00) on amazon, I would say the resolution is good enough for gameboy emulation or something similar. For a headless install its nice to plug in if you can't get to a command line any other way, which is what I got it for.
Check this out on AMZN:
Belkin Bluetooth Car Hands-Free Kit for Apple iPod, Apple iPhone, BlackBerry,and Android Smartphones, US Version
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004CLYJ2I/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8
The 08 Toyota has an aux port. Just get a bluetooth module that connects to that. If you want a newer car then work this summer and save your money then you'll have a decent down payment to buy one for yourself. The better your down payment the lower the interest rate for someone young without much credit history.
Here ya go....Sundown E series 15 $165
Pioneer amp $170
box $150
wiring kit $ 60
Around $550 for everything, but you could easily knock off $100 of that just by building your own box. or still save some by finding someone on craigslist that builds boxes(every craigslist has 1 or 2)
What if you went with the Rexing V1p 2nd gen? It's on a huge sale cause of the Prime sale.
Either the Viofo or Rexing will be good. Viofo generally has better customer support but they aren't too different.
You might get a buzzing noise (ground loop hum) but you can eliminate that with a ground loop noise isolater.
I run the 3.5mm through one of those and into my PC's line-in so I don't have to move plugs around or change headsets, and I haven't had any issues.
I use a Thinkware F750 with rear camera attachment. Quite pleased with it. You can get front camera and rear attachment here in town at Best Buy or on Amazon. Has on board GPS plus other nifty features like lane departure and forward collision warnings. It also has a speed camera database. We got rid of our cameras years ago, but I got to watch the feature in action when I was in Phoenix a few weeks ago, and it works very well, with an audible distance callout.
If that's too rich for your blood, the Rexing V1 is an excellent alternative.
I very highly recommend front AND rear facing cameras.
Mine has already come in quite useful. It captured this carwash mishap.
I have not been in any actual accidents yet, but the sheer amount of stupidity on the roads is staggering.
You get what you pay for. You really gotta invest some decent coin, but again look at all of the dumb shit I've been involved in. It's worth it.
The go to for bang-for-buck performance seems to be the Rexing V1P. It has dual cam capability and GPS which allows speed readings, as well as GPS, for any liability purposes in a car accident.
Like anything else, the secondary accessories are just as important. Maximizing your micro SD card, and having a backup or two are very crucial. This summer has killed 2 quality SanDisks from baking in the sun through the windshield. A standalone wiring kit going straight to the battery also allows for 24/7 running time, and a more solid connection when you hit bumps or get into fender benders. Cigarette lighter adapters are always going to be flimsy.
edit: another word of advice is when looking at best sellers on Amazon, avoid cameras that only have 30ish reviews and has only been on the market for a few months. The China paid reviewer squads have seriously gamed a lot. If it's got over 200 4+ star reviews, it's probably been on the market long enough to be considered durable and of value.
It's a Rexing V1P. I've read 1 complaint on reddit somewhere, where a guy had left his in the car during a hot day and it got so hot it damaged the electronic on it. However, mine hasn't left the car so far and was in most of the summer. (I live in Oregon though, it doesn't get all that hot.) I'm not concerned because he mentioned the company didn't have an issue replacing it when he contacted them.
You could employ an audio isolation transformer between the NUC audio jack and your amplifier. For example : https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Ground-Isolator-Systems-Included/dp/B01L1NP7YI/ref=sr_1_13?crid=23LV06AA5GLO4&amp;keywords=audio+isolation+transformer&amp;qid=1564415768&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=audio+iso%2Caps%2C175&amp;sr=8-13
A not so expensive Aukey -
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M592J9C/?tag=rhodge11-20
Came with a great permanent 3m mount. Keeps it ultra stable and has never fallen off even in my lifted Jeep.
Always better to use amazon. Com more options better prices. Slightly longer shipping time
Option 1 (newer model, capacitor based, no battery)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07HVNCQF3/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile
Option 2 (this is the older capacitor based model and what I use)
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Dashboard-Camera-Recorder-6-Lane/dp/B01M592J9C
The suction cup mount is useless and total junk. Stick to 3m tape mount option or find a rear view mirror mount.
Smart rear view mirror: http://www.amazon.com/Incredisonic-F-360-Accident-Recorder-Dual-Camera/dp/B00E56WY18/
or a premium car DVR.
How about? https://www.navdy.com/preorder
$25 budget is going to get you... shit.
This one is roughly the cheapest "decent" one, and it's still not perfect. It's suggested here all the time. I've got one, and I don't hate it, though it does occasionally still corrupt videos or skip a few minutes here and there, which makes it unreliable. I can't imagine spending less than $100 on one.
https://www.amazon.com/Falcon-Zero-F360-HD-Included/dp/B00E56WY18/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522343827&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=falcon+360
To the op, that sucks. I'm sorry. It's wrong.
But now I hope you and everyone reading this will protect yourself by recording a video of everything that happens in your car!
GET A FUCKING DASHCAM
You don't even have to decide which one.
> The model I believe this driver used (and that I and a bunch of other old-timers in this sub use) has been sold as the Falcon Zero F360, Wicked HD WCD-5801, Black Box M1000, and now the Pyle PLCMDVR52.
> A year ago they were $150, now I see them going for as low as $75 (Pyle). EDIT: that was summer 2016. Prices have gone up again, perhaps because more people a buying them. But there are still some available for $100 as of July 2017.
> Falcon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00E56WY18/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=all
> Wicked: https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00TZ7H8TU/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=all
> Black Box: https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00WYH37CA/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=all
> Pyle: https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01GNL6R7Y/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=all
> Some include an SD card and some do not, so take that into consideration for price comparison. Specs says it only takes up to 32gb cards, but I put in a 64gb card and formatted it in the camera (apparently that's important) and it worked fine. YMMV.
> This cam is one of those items designed in China and offered for sale under a variety of brands in the US, all of which nobody has heard of. ;)
> Here's a review emphasizing it's technical limitations, but showing it's unique form factor and value for taxi drivers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eGt9yiHMJqU
> That YouTuber has a great intro guide to dashcams which I found very helpful:
http://www.techmoan.com/guide-to-dashcams/
> He's very tech and quality oriented, and as such recommends a $200 premium inside/outside camera, but it doesn't have the rear view mirror form factor, which is a real space saver.
http://www.techmoan.com/blog/2016/1/12/recording-inside-and-outside-the-car-with-the-transcend-driv.html
Searching around a bit, here's $85 free shipping, with 16GB SD Card.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Black-Box-M1000-Rearview-Mirror-Dash-Cam-Dual-Camera-Rotating-Lenses-Full-HD-Car-DVR-Video-Recorders-Wide-Angle-G-Sensor-60FPS-WDR-Night-Video-Motion/121437418
The G1W with a 16gb card. I'd probably opt for the 32gb in the future, but if it's just for accidents only and not youtube posting, 8gb should be fine.
G1W: http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A
I'd probably get the G1WH if I were buying today (wider angle, black bezel, tho I painted the bezels on mine with matte black paint):
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-H-Hidden-Dashboard/dp/B00HMNFWYW
like mentioned by /u/milan616 you could just use that cable. if you can still return the e09k, consider getting the monoprice desktop dac/amp for pretty much the same price. it has the usb input youre looking for
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW
You can hardwire it so it's always on. I'm using this kit on my G1W and if you tap it to an always hot fuse it'll stay on 24/7 without draining the battery.
The wiring kit and the add a fuse tap. Get whichever tap for your size fuse in your interior fuse box. Run the wires in the headliner and down the a pillar.
I recommend the a118c dash cam.
https://www.amazon.com/Dash-Camera-Vehicle-Hard-Wire/dp/B00MH4ZVHO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474857212&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=dash+cam+wiring+kit
https://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-Blade--Circuit-Holder/dp/B001QRSBW0/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474857229&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=add+a+fuse
I copied this from a response I got when I was researching this.
You need a hardwire kit. There's tons out there. Check ebay. I got one for $8. It will have a step down transformer and ideally, an inline fuse. It will have a red power wire and a black ground wire.
Hook the ground wire to some bare metal. Most likely there is an easy bolt near the fuse box under the dash.
Hook the power wire to a key-on/switched power source - as in, the circuit is only powered when the key is in the ignition, that way the cam doesn't run when you're not in the car.
One way to do this is with an add-a-fuse to an existing fuse in the fuse box. Insert red wire into blue butt connector, crimp with pliers. Replace existing fuse with addafuse (addafuse takes two fuses- old + new). Be sure to size the new fuse correctly. Should be 1.5-2 amps.
Run the wires up the A-pillar and under the roof liner for a concealed, factory look.
Something like this is perfect: http://www.amazon.com/Dash-Camera-Vehicle-Hard-Wire/dp/B00MH4ZVHO
I used one of these and one of these
Yes I do! It's a G1W.
It's mounted in front of the rear view mirror, with the USB cable run down the A-pillar and hard-wired into the dash. I actually glued the mount to the rear view mirror, but you can also buy a special mount.
I really like it. Only $60 and it's Go-Pro quality footage with great nighttime performance. Only cons are no GPS and the "G-sensor" is too sensitive and clogs up the memory card with random clips. So it has to be turned off.
EDIT: Here's some raw footage I happened to have on my hard drive.
I believe the high-quality, "name brand" version, by Street Guardian, is located here:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U0OJMYG
In addition, the Street Guardian one uses supercapacitors instead of lithium ion batteries. If you live somewhere where it can ever get above 100F (or 140F in your car in the sunlight), you'll want the supercapacitor version, not the battery version.
The Street Guardian SG9665GC is basically plug and play. Comes with a memory card too.
If you ever need to copy clips you just take the memory card out and use the card reader that comes with the cam.
Alright. Simply put there is not an out of the box solution for this. You would have to first figure out the extra hardware needed for the pi to drive the screen and then you would have to write the code to actually use the screen. That software would essentially have to function as a video driver which is usually used for dedicated hardware.
On top of all that the resolution would be very low and you'd probably have trouble even with a terminal.
If you want a small portable screen for your pi I suggest you get something like this http://www.amazon.com/3-5-Inch-TFT-Monitor-Automobile/dp/B0045IIZKU/ref=sr_sp-btf_title_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1374906800&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=ntsc+screen
It can be powered off of 12 volts though reading the reviews suggests that you can power it off as low as 5 volts.
Better Amazon link
I'm not sure if yours was a mobile link, or it's just my browser, just trying to help people out, hope I didn't offend.
$140 subs
$95 Box
$115 amp
$60 amp kit
You didn't give a budget, so I went with something middle of the road, high value setup. Walmart is an authorized retailer of Pioneer, so you get a warranty. Cranked up, it will drown out your stock speakers... but you can turn it down to suit your situation.
If you are looking for something that will blend in with a stock system and have no plans on upgrading everything else.... swap the subs, amp, and wire kit out like so.
I'm pretty sure they flog you here if you suggest anything other than Knukonceptz.
Cheaper kit :
http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1381424122&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=knukonceptz+4+gauge
Better grade OFC kit : http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1381424140&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=knukonceptz+4+gauge+ofc
mystery edit mofos.
Gonna be a tight stretch at that price point. If you could shake loose another $100 you could get into one of the subreddits most recommend set ups.
Sub
Amp
Power wire
Then you just need a sheet of MDF for a box and any other install accessories you may need.
http://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-WMA1000-Tune2air/dp/B00B52LLJ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1409093941&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=audi+bluetooth+adapter
The ipod-to-bluetooth adapter has to be a specific one. Unless the iOS software is present, Audi doesn't power the Bluetooth adapter, so it won't have electricity to turn on. I have the Viseeo Tune2Air because it mimicked iOS connection, Audi thinks I have an iPod/iPhone/iPad hooked up and powers the device and I connect Bluetooth for audio.
http://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-WMA1000-Tune2air/dp/B00B52LLJ6
A119S
I really suggest going for a Aukey DR02 (https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Wide-Angle-G-Sensor-Dual-Port-Charger/dp/B075S7W6FR/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523573542&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=aukey+DR02)
Doesn't use a battery so no swelling, also any dashcam with a battery will typically become unstable when the battery fails. Front and rear 1080p 30FPS. Takes up to 128GB Micro SD.
This would be my 6th dashcam after endless problems with other brands. This has been brilliant.
I'd be uncomfortable. Drop $100 on a motion sense camera to put in your vehicle and install it at a friend's house if you're worried about being approached while working on it in the garage. You'll feel better about it being there and it might even act as a deterrent if the person has less than good intentions.
This is the one I have and it's pretty good. Works as designed and the picture quality is awesome, but sometimes it restarts itself while I'm driving. It's not perfect, but I didn't want to pay more for perfect, either. Footage is easy to review on a laptop.
Can do just the front camera for $70 but I forked out for front and rear. Took me about 15mins to install. The second link is how to make it a motion-sense camera that turns on even if the vehicle is parked and off.
AUKEY Dual Dash Cam HD 1080P Front and Rear Camera
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075S7W6FR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mxLUDb7EG0DMP
AUKEY Dash Cam Hardwire Kit with Motion Detection Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J3BLFBN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BzLUDb93SVQAY
It’s the Roav A1.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076GYGVY5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vnmXDbM8HJKYT
I recommend this one for two channel if you want front and rear cams, if you want to record in-car I am sure /r/dashcam could give you ideas. I have an A119 that records only the front view but I love it.
Yeah it can be a bit overwhelming. There are a lot of options and unfortunately, a lot of shit cams from China.
The selection you have picked out is good. I think you did a good job picking out the features of each cam, so go with what’s most important to you.
Dual cams are certainly nice. Some things like GPS logger are more gimmicks than actual useful features. Also regarding app use, it’s generally slow file transfer for all apps.
I’d go with the Rexing V1P Pro or check out the A129 Duo.
Also, if your camera doesn’t come with an AD card, make sure to get a high endurance model like this SanDisk. Dashcams place a lot of read write cycles on the cards so regular ones fail often.
Sure, just search for Viofo A119V2. But here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MFAK888/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505078708&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr0&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=viofo+119v2
I would go with eBay though (but I am not from the US) as you get one of the best warranties out there. Literally any issues? Full refund or a brand new one shipped. But I am biased, I had very good eBay experiences and Amazon service was always a bit more cumbersome.
Then again, that's just my experience. Good luck!
You will also need a "high endurance microsd card". I would go with 64gigs minimum, and just Google "high endurance microsd" and pick a brand you prefer. I went with Sandisk High Endurance. Basically cams write data all the time and normal SD cards die way too fast under them. Don't sweat, the price diff between high endurance and regular is pretty small.
I just put this in my Tundra a few months ago.
AUKEY Dual Dash Cam, 1080P HD Front and Rear Camera, 6-Lane 170° Wide-Angle Lens, Night Vision, G-Sensor, Dual-Port Car Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075S7W6FR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_g-gKBbM87DF56
Works great, clear video. Puts front and rear videos in the same folder, front videos end with A rear videos end with B. I used a suction cup mount but they come with a sticker mount. Plenty of cable to reach the back (I ran mine behind the headliner). Doesn’t block bison as bad as my old G1W.
Get the one that OP has and I have as well
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Wide-Angle-G-Sensor-Dual-Port-Charger/dp/B075S7W6FR
I've had it for a year now no issues whatsoever, also on the plus side it's FRONT and BACK
I highly recommend the AUKEY DR02 D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075S7W6FR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V8h1BbPT7YQCX
It has front and rear, and is reasonably priced. Great quality as well.
I got a dashcam a few months ago, and while I hadn't bought it with his kind of scenario in mind, this would be ideal for such a scenario, in validating your story, the time you parked, etc.
Here's the cam I got it; there's a camera for the front and back:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075S7W6FR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_K85YTACYnZenz
There's an additional system to have it hardwired to take periodic photos while the car is off, but I've found that the outlet I have it plugged into in my car provides power even if the car is off, and to my pleasant surprise, after leaving it plugged in mistakenly overnight multiple times, I can say that the drain on the battery is small enough, even while recording constantly all night, that I've had no problems with starting it the next day. I've even had it plugged in and running for two consecutive nights without issue.
I personally use this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075S7W6FR
I personally use this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075S7W6FR/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You get a forward and rear 1080p cams.
No offense to OP but this is a better product for the same price. Anker makes great stuff
Roav DashCam A1, by Anker, Dash Cam, Dashboard Camera Recorder, 1080P FHD, Nighthawk Vision, Wide-Angle View, WiFi, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording, and https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076GYGVY5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_QHmO58pDnQSMT
Roav A1, has great support and warranty, gets firmware updates, works well.
https://www.amazon.com/Roav-Dashboard-Nighthawk-Wide-Angle-Recording/dp/B076GYGVY5/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542130835&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=roav+a1
I am currently using this one . Video quality is pretty good and you can see the footage on its mobile app. It's by Anker.
I would also recommend getting an endurance card rather than normal sd card. Like this one.
I second the Roav nomination. I have THREE Roav A1in my Bolt, Front, Rear, and Charge Port.
I've had them about a year and have had zero issues. I've pulled numerous incidents off the cameras and posted them online for my friends.
I paid about $43 each for them from Amazon.
Also, be sure you get good SD cards. Bad cards lead to no video when you really need it. I have these Samsung Evo Selects and have not had one fail yet.
Thanks! Getting more and more accustomed to it every day. Coming from an 02' WRX, performance cars have come a long way.
The dash cam is this one here, picked it up over the holidays for $50 on an Amazon lightning deal. Looks like it's a few bucks cheaper now. No complaints so far and has all the basic features. Bought my wife an Anker Roav that seems a bit higher quality in terms of fit and finish.
Did the install myself, pretty easy to run the cord under the plastic trim and siding so it's completely hidden up until it drops down from the windshield.
It’s actually a VIOFO A129. I drive a Nissan Murano but also have another car I haven’t wired up yet since buying this car so it’s just a custom watermark!
If you're looking to upgrade, I have the Viofo A129 Duo. It comes with a front and rear camera, and they're both 1080p!
Amazon links without the affiliate tag
This is the one I have. It's great. Supports up to 128g
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EX8ATKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XZhwCbA6PD6MY
I have this one in my pickup. You can see in the reviews some people have posted video footage. The LCD screen on the unit itself does suck but the videos themselves are great.
Rexing V1P 2.4" LCD FHD 1080p 170 Degree Wide Angle Dual Channel Dashboard Camera Recorder Car Dash Cam with Rear Camera, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EX8ATKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BYl6Cb10WX6Y7
ok since it is happening repeatedly you need to get a dashcam and a rear dash cam (might as well get 2 side dashcams as well). you need to video every second of you driving and if/when this happens again you have the evidence to post.
order 2 of these:
https://www.amazon.com/V1P-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B01EX8ATKK/ref=zg_bs_3248689011_9?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=TBXM26R2S3MR5XA0ZG09
I've been using one of these for broadcasting bluetooth audio from my switch. It works pretty well. If you do that and get some persistent buzzing get a ground loop isolator.
It would be ideal if the Switch just had bluetooth audio to begin with, but this has been an okay solution for me so far.
This may be worth a shot
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Ground-Isolator-Systems-Included/dp/B01L1NP7YI
Depends on the type of headset you have.
For example: I have a logitech g933. It is a wireless one that uses a usb bluetooth dongle. On the top of the bluetooth dongle is an aux port, and there's an aux port on my monitor that I put smash on. Now in order to get audio for me, all I have to do is use an aux cable, plug it into my dongle, and then into my monitor, however you will hear a low buzz or hum.
In order to remove this, you need to plug your aux cable into a Ground Loop Isolator
That will remove the buzz and hum, and will make it so the audio you get from your monitor (the one you are playing smash on) is clear and clean.
That's just my headset though. Someone else did a handy guide on how they set it up, with pictures. https://imgur.com/gallery/xXDXM
Hope this helps
Piling on to agree. I play mostly docked through a monitor with no audio output, so I've always got headphones in while docked. Definitely got some buzzing/feedback, but solved it with this isolator and have had no problems since.
Important to note that if you DO do this method you might have some crackle from the Switch. That's because Nintendo is incompetent and doesn't use high quality parts for their headphone connector.
If you do have that crackle/static, you can get around it by using one of these.
I have this one and I like it. Good FOV, good quality, decent in night time. Software seems pretty sane too, with hit detection, lots of configurable options.
I just looked it up and I've got [this camera](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M592J9C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1), which I got on sale for about $45. I don't really worry about it getting stolen. Cameras are getting more and more common now. It sounds like you don't have one based on your questions.
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I'd say when you're looking for one take a good look at the reviews and reliability for them from lots of people. You don't have to spend a lot (some you can get for $30 or less!) but it's mainly features and reliability. Some have shock sensors that will automatically record/save when it detects sudden, big movement (like a collision/knock), even when the car is off. Some have GPS with the ability to record speed, but I've read that it's smart to turn that off just in case it can be used against you.
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My biggest learning moments were resolution and video failure/reliability. For resolution I mean how much detail you can make out in the video. For obvious reasons you may want to be able to get license plate details from your recordings. The quality in my gif is crap but the original is 1080p and I CANNOT read plates with it. So I got into the habit of audibly reading plates out loud so it can be captured by the audio in the video.
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Video reliability: I don't always pull the memory card to grab a video file (like this incident) but twice now when I have the video was missing or damaged. It was frustrating because who knows how many other times it has happened but I never needed the video so I didn't know. And those incidents where I lost the videos or couldn't get them were small annoyances like the OP. If it was a serious incident and I found out after the fact that the cam had stopped recording or the file was corrupt or whatever else I'd be really upset. They could have been complete flukes but who knows. For that reason you may want to get a cam considered widely reliable by many and lessen that risk.
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But bottom line is that I think everyone should get a dashcam. It is nice to know you've got proof of an incident if something happens and also makes you a little more cognizant of what you're doing behind the wheel. I'm not a super expert at these things but I believe dashcamtalk.com is THE place to go to learn and get answers/suggestions!
I've used this one for a year and a half and I've been very happy with it.
Sorry for the late response.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M592J9C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I got it a little cheaper, maybe $50. Make sure you buy the correct SD card. Needs to be at least a Class 10 and U1 is better. I need to get a polarizing filter for it. Only frustration so far is actually with the car. Because of the radar cruise control I can only mount it in the corners of the windshield, but I currently think it's in a decent spot.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
A119S. I did a lot of research when I purchased mine a few months back. IMO it's the best bang for the buck. Capacitor works better than batteries in the heat as well, which is a bonus in hot climates. You can plug into USB or purchase a hard wire kit which plugs into your fuse box (takes 10-20 minutes to install).
The GPS is worth it as well if you wish to verify location and speed. Can also be easily disabled if for some reason you don't want it showing, same with the mic.
Make sure to get a good micro SD card as well.
This one: https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-A119S-DashCam-included-Novatek/dp/B01MFAK888
Here's a link to the latest version. I have version 1 and my wife has version 2 in her car.
https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-A119S-DashCam-included-Novatek/dp/B01MFAK888/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522270486&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=a119s+v2
Viofo A119S V2. I had the V1 and used my credit card's extended return policy benefit on it due to issues with the GPS mount that were only fixed in the V2 (V1 pinout inconsistent/gets stuck, lead to movement in mount [movement of cam while driving] and power loss). I also have a CPL filter on it.
im using the BW screen.
http://www.amazon.com/3-5-Inch-TFT-Monitor-Automobile/dp/B0045IIZKU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1344995756&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=3.5+lcd
But you will need a 9V~12V adapter. It runs well on a 9V in this case. I just hooked it up to a breadboard.
I use this, it's $16.99, but you need something like this to power it.
This is the most popular one used in the community
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045IIZKU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It might be the same one OP used as well.
There's a few different versions that people get but here's a wiki.
http://www.sudomod.com/wiki/index.php?title=GBZ_Screen
Thanks! GBA games perform rather well actually as well as GBC games. I was playing oracle of seasons and it seemed to run great! I couldn't figure out how to use the original gameboy screen so I purchased and modded [this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045IIZKU?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00) screen to fit my needs. It only draws about 270-300mA so it's not too power hungry making it a fairly good choice for this project. Unfortunately the resolution is crap and reading the small text in the OS menus is difficult.
I have a Flexsmart in my car, since I have no aux-in and I installed a Belkin in my wife's since she does have an aux port. They both work well, however the Belkin does sound better and seems to connect more reliably than the Flexsmart.
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Hands-Free-Bluetooth-CarAudio-Connect/dp/B004CLYJ2I
I used this guy for that and it was great. I stuck the little puck over the cigarette lighter hole and ran the wiring under the console and up into the storage compartment to connect to the 12V and aux there. You'll need a ground loop isolator as well otherwise as you RWC you'll hear alternator whine, something like
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/
I currently use this Belkin, but I think this one that came out more recently is better.
With the Belkin, I get in the car press the button and it will connect in about 1-2 seconds. I then press it again and it will launch whatever I used last to play audio (Google Music or PocketCast for me). I use it everyday. Really nice to not have to take your phone out of your pocket, take your gloves off, and mess with the phone before driving.
It also leaves the phone "wireless" so I can put it on the magnetic car dock without messing with cables, especially since the phone jack on my phone is on the top.
Get this. I've had it for over a year in my Cadillac and it works perfectly. Whenever you hop in just push the button and it's ready. The built in mic makes the speaker phone flawless too.
Belkin Hands-Free Bluetooth Car Kit for Apple iPod, Apple iPhone, BlackBerry,and Android Smartphones, US Version https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004CLYJ2I/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_q3tVub0FDH3GV
I just did this a couple months ago in my girlfriends car. She just bought a 2007 Honda Accord which did not have an input, so I installed one for her birthday. It's super easy. Note: The 2003 is the same setup as the 2007.
$105 plus tax with the Bluetooth adapter or $75 without. I installed it in her car in about 40 minutes. It's really simple to do by yourself.
Fiio makes some pretty nice budget and portable amps.
What are you looking for? For a introductory tube amp, I would reccomend the Vali + Modi amp/dac combo. They are made by Schiit, and their products are really good for their price.
You should definitely get an amp for those. Something like the Fiio E11? (I'm sure others can chime in with better suggestions).
Also, don't forget to let them burn in.
In terms of gaming, you want an open headphone since they give wider soundstage.
If you need a mic, Modmics are popular or you can get a desktop mic.
With all that being said, DT770s are definitely an upgrade over most if not all gaming headsets so enjoy!
Tek Syndicate also have videos relating to this topic
If you have 100$ to drop on a headphone amp, get something like a Magni or an E11 and simulate the effects of that thing with an equalizer. You'll get the same results and much better sound, and the effect isn't literally baked into the hardware if you ever want to get rid of it and just have a nice amp.
Sennheiser HD449.
If you really want an ear orgasm, combine them with any of FiiO's amazing headphone amps.
My combo: FiiO E11 + HD449 = ear bliss.
Detailed specs and frequency response chart:
http://www.headphone.com/headphones/sennheiser-hd-449.php
Example purchase links:
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1348252469&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=fiio+e11
http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-HD-449-Headphones-Black/dp/B005SNPV8K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1348252455&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sennheiser+hd449
I just got back into car audio. I am adding a single sub to my car and have done some research recently. Here is what I would suggest as a cost effective way to add some bass to your car.
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Alpine mono amp new at BestBuy for $99. It puts out 500 watts @ 2 ohms.
Alpine MRV-M500 Mono V-Power Digital Amplifier
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4 gauge amp kits or $19.45 on amazon.
SoundBox Connected 4 Gauge Amp Kit Amplifier Install Wiring Complete 4 Ga Installation Cables 2200W
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You will need a line our converter (LOC) to hook up the factory stereo to the amp. This one includes a control knob for the amp as well. This one is $19.97.
SCOSCHE LOC2SL Car Stereo 2-Channel Audio Adjustable Amplifier Add-On Adapter with Remote Control Knob
If you want a cheaper one you can buy this one for $7.94.
PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter
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You will need an enclosure for the sub. Since you are cost conscious, I imagine you want the most boom for your buck so I would go with a ported sub box. I prefer sealed but it is up to you. This one is $36.95 and has a decent speaker terminal.
ASC Single 12" Subwoofer Universal Fit Vented Port Sub Box Speaker Enclosure
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|Part|Price|
|:-|:-|
|Amp|$99|
|Amp Kit|$19.45|
|LOC|$7.94|
|Enclosure|$36.95|
|TOTAL before sub woofer, shipping is free.|$163.34|
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That leaves you $336.66 to spend on a sub woofer and installation if you need it. You could easily get 2 10's and a box and still have a lot of cash left.
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You can buy a used box pretty cheap on OfferUp or Craigslist as well as a quality amp and sub. I would not buy a used amp kit or a used LOC. However the amp kit you could simply buy the wire directly.
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You see a lot of people selling JL W3's online used. That is a quality woofer at a good price.
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I hope this info helps.
(Edit)
Here is the oxygen free wiring kit I purchased. It is a lot more but reasonable priced on Amazon for what you get.
KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit
Front Speakers: JBL MS-62C $180
Subwoofer: JBL GTO1214D 12" DVC $90
Enclosure: Scosche SE12CC $45
Amplifier: JBL GTO-3EZ 50x2, 500x1 $170
Amp Kit: KnuKonceptz KCA 4 gauge $30
RCAs: KnuKonceptz Bassik RCA $8
RCA Y-Cable: Generic $6
Total $529
This assumes you'd be keeping the stock rear 6x9s. If you wanted to upgrade those:
Rear Speakers: JBL GTO928 6x9 $70
Amplifier: JBL GTO-5EZ $245
Amp Kit: KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 gauge $60
RCAs: KnuKonceptz Bassik RCA $8
The upgrade to a 5 channel amp, the required upgrade to the amp kit, an additional set of RCA cables and the rear speakers tacks on an additional $183 for a total of $712.
You can also optionally upgrade to a 15" sub for an additional $31:
Subwoofer: JBL GTO1514D $114
Enclosure: Scosche SE15CC $51
In summary,
Front speakers and 12" sub: $529
Front speakers and 15" sub: $560
Front and rear speakers and 12" sub: $712
Front and rear speakers and 15" sub: $743
Personally I'd go with the 15" sub for $31 more. A 12" is probably just fine but you're better off buying a larger sub and turning it down than trying to get every last ounce of bass out of a smaller one.
I know you asked about an amp kit from Sonic, but I would highly recommend getting this kit from Amazon.
Some of the low end brands on Sonic that sell amp kits won't give you wire that's as thick as they actually it is (i.e. some '4 gauge' cables will have thicker sheathes and less wire than others). Knu Konceptz over-sizes their wires plus this kit is made with oxygen-free copper instead of cheaper copper clad aluminum, which would provide better current flow and OFC doesn't corrode as easily. It's a great deal for the price.
I would do something with Sundown E or Soundqubed. Amp I would do Rockford. Wiring Kit OFC.
For the box it is best to make or buy a custom ported. Sheet of plywood is $40 with glue and some screws you are lookig at $50 and an afternoon.
I have an old Alpine MRP-M350 in my car. Paired with SWS-12D4.
First you have to pick your amp. But it also helps to know how many Amps your Alternator puts out. My alt puts out 150 amps, which is uncommonly high for a sedan. The reason for knowing your alternator is because if you have a weak alt, you will get headlight dimming very easily. No one likes headlight dimming.
After you know how many amps you have to work with off your alt. Then you get an amp. Something like this is pretty middle of the road:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/alpine-500w-class-d-digital-mono-amplifier-with-low-pass-crossover-black/7551285.p?skuId=7551285
After you have you amp, you need a sub. Pick any dual voice coil sub. Dual four is good. When wired in parallel it makes it 2ohms.
https://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/1DVC_4-ohm_mono.jpg
Now you have sub and amp. TIme for wiring. You need a wiring kit.
https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=lp_3308787011_1_12?srs=3308787011&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491479560&amp;sr=8-12
You will want Oxygen Free Copper, not Copper Clad Aluminum. Pure copper is what you are after. Anything else is junk.
Now you have your parts. Amp. Sub. Fat ass wire (4 gauge).
Run the power wire from the battery to where ever you want your amp, most people put it in the trunk. Make sure you have the inline fuse holder close the battery, within 12 inches.
Next, from the back if your stereo, you are going to run two wires. A remote wire that leads to the amp. And pair of RCA cables also to the amp. Next you are going to run a ground to the amp. The ground is simple because most people just find a bare metal in the trunk and use that.
Then you hook the power wire to the power terminal on the amp. Then the remote wire to the remote terminal on the amp. Then plug in the RCAs into the amp also. Power wire gives the amp power, remote wire turns the amp on and off with your car so you dont drain the battery because its always on. The RCAS give the amp an audio signal. Lastly, you go back and install the fuse, in the in line fuse box near the battery. And now you have a complete circuit, and thus, a working amp.
This is what I'd do on that budget.
Sub: Dayton Titanic 12 $190
Box $57
Amp $166
Wiring Kit $50
Total: $463
With the little extra remaining I'd get a sound deadening kit for your trunk. You could also save money on the wiring if you never plan to upgrade in the future, but I typically like to go overkill on my amp and wiring the first time so future upgrades are a simple plug and play without having to run new wiring.
amp | wiring | woofer
This sub is arguably SQ oriented. You will need to fab a box. I've installed these a couple of times, they deliver. This is the lowest I would go.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005CIJBKK/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1396960996&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
Never seen that website before. That would be a bit overkill. The speakers look good tho.
If you're looking to save money you can go with something like this.
Amp
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BF6HY84/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502328240&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=2+channel+amplifier&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=510stvQfv1L&amp;ref=plSrch
Speakers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000P0PF9G/ref=mp_s_a_1_23?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502328354&amp;sr=8-23&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=6.5+coaxial+speakers
Now if you go that route you'll need an amp install kit. Knu koncepts of very well loved here. I have this same kit in my car.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005CIJBKK/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502328557&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=knukonceptz+4+gauge&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51T-yGZf9YL&amp;ref=plSrch
This will give you plenty of wire for when you add the sub + amp.
Someone lit the TSR signal, and thus I am here :P
I bought the Aura bass shakers and a Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier. My Bass shaker is rated for 50W, where the Lepai amp only comes with a 3A PSU, so I picked up a 6A PSU on the recommendation of someone in this subreddit, and it's been working fine (hasn't burned up or anything). I'm currently attaching it to a ford cobra seat, but just from the limited test use I've done so far, it works great. Definitely shakes my entire apartment when I turn it up.
The entire kit came out to about $90 after shipping, which I figured was a great price. I've seen someone recommend getting 4 amps and 4 transducers and mounting them on the corners of my seat, then running SimVibe to simulate each wheel independently, but I haven't tried that personally. Nor have I tried the actual brandname buttkicker, so I can't say how this solution compares. But I will say it adds a huge amount of immersion to Assetto Corsa.
EDIT: Oops, forgot the parts list:
AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer by Aura Sound - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZPTBI/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_VjzVtb1MV70BA
Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output by Lepai - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=asc_df_B0070Z87YO3169620?smid=A385A0XNQBW8HY&amp;tag=pgmp-401-100-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;creative=395109&amp;creativeASIN=B0070Z87YO
12v 6a Adapter Power Supply for LCD Monitor with Power Cord by LCD AC Power Adapter - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_tlzVtb1TKD73K?tag=viglink20241-20
Basically, there's two components to think about. An amplifier takes power and audio input (as stereo RCA plugs or a 1/8th inch jack) and outputs amplified audio (almost always as binding posts or clamps for speaker wire). Speakers take amplified audio as input (again, as binding posts/clamps for speaker wire) and make noise.
Active or powered speakers just means that you're buying the amp and the speakers integrated as one unit. M-Audio AV40s are a good example of this. Scroll down and you can see a picture of the back of one speaker. Power cord, RCA inputs, and speaker wire output to the other speaker.
Passive/unpowered speakers mean you're just buying the speakers, and you need to buy an amp separately. A good example of this is the Micca MB42x and Lepai LP-2020. Again, look at the back of each one to get an idea of how they're connected.
If you want simplicity, go for a pair of powered studio monitors. However, what you trade off with that is upgradeability - because monitors are integrated all-in-one, you can't easily add to them later on.
If you want to go the component route, I'd recommend a 2.1 amp (meaning it has outputs for 2 speakers plus a subwoofer) such as the Lepai 168HA. Add in some unpowered bookshelf speakers like those Micca MB42x, and you've got a great system for less than half your budget. Depending on how much room you have on the floor near your desk, you can also add a subwoofer, either now or at some point down the road. The Dayton Audio SUB-800 for example is small enough to fit under a desk pretty easily, and would still be within your budget.
https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=2.1+lepai&amp;qid=1564026642&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
Here's that same amp but cheaper.
Even with that amp or any similar amp it's not going to power the sub, but it can connect to it. A sub will have it's own amplification. A 2.1 amp like that will allow you to connect a sub that doesn't have high level outputs, like the MartinLogan Dynamo 300 for reference (has high level inputs but no outputs)
On the sub you linked, assuming you go with the Micca's and the Lepy LP-2020A:
Speaker wire from the amplifier to the subwoofer "high level input", then speaker wire from the "high level output" to the speakers. That sub allows you to connect it with pretty much any existing stereo setup.
Couple ideas for you:
Pyle
Lepai
Belkin Splitter
You'd be better off getting a pair of micca mb42x and a cheap amp like this one. https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520822446&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Lepai+amp#customerReviews
Take a look at XCarLink. People on Audizine have used it.
You can easily get bluetooth streaming with your factory head unit using a CoolStream or Tune2Air 1000 (if you have the factory iPod cable) or Tune2Air 3000 (if you don't).
Everyone recommends the ViseeO Tune2Air. I plan on picking one for myself for my 09.
You're going to want this exact model, and plug it into the aux USB dongle.
I've got a 2011 328i with no iDrive console and came across the same issue: Bluetooth pairing is limited to calls, and the USB dongle uses up my phone's connector (and provides little to no charge for my phone). Other standard Bluetooth adapters will only transmit audio, and the wheel controls / song display won't work. The Tune2air works perfectly: bluetooth connection for audio + calls, track names and wheel controls can change volume and skip, while freeing up my phone's connector to charge via the cigarette lighter.
Most people that don't have the MMI with navigation get this:
Bovee 1000 Wireless Bluetooth Music Interface Adapter for in Car iPod Integration https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B52LLJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pp9RybX85KTKT
It connects to your current 30 pin connector and you can control the music from the car.
http://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-Tune2air-WMA1000-Bluetooth-Integration/dp/B00B52LLJ6/
I use this to stream via bluetooth from my phone. It works great!
I haven't bought one, but I've heard that this works great. (plus it makes it bluetooth). Your car has two bluetooth connections with your car, for the phonecalls, and for the music. From your cars perspective it is still getting music from an iPod.
I found this info at audizine a few months back, so do a search there.
http://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-WMA1000-Tune2air/dp/B00B52LLJ6/ref=sr_1_1?s=wireless&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1371222376&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Tune2Air+WMA1000
Go with the wma1000 on amazon. You would only need an additional power source via cig port, but will stream using the iPod connector over Bluetooth.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B52LLJ6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Make sure you get a dash cam with GPS attached to it or built into the camera, I have this one and whats great about a GPS dash camera is it will have your speed but it also will always have the correct date and time since it always gets updated by the GPS.
Viofo A119s. It says at the bottom of the video ;)
I got this particular version as I think it has a Sony sensor which is better at night. It's done pretty well so far but the detail drops of pretty quick. You can only read plates up to about 2 car lengths. Still damn good for $100.
I have the same car and use one of these: ViseeO Tune2air WMA1000
Works well.
G1W-H, or if you're in a place that gets really hot and you don't want to deal with batteries exploding, G1W-C.
The Black Box company line of G1W Dashcams is suppose to be from the official manufacturer in the USA. They have a full line of products that all show official packaging and manuals. Most legit company it seems with an actual support email and website -
Original G1W $58.95 - http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-Original-Dashboard/dp/B00FONBG1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1409156204&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=g1w
Capacitor (no battery) G1W $58.95 - http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-C-1080P-Capacitor/dp/B00MIO2KRC/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1409156259&amp;sr=1-4
320mAh G1W $63.99 - http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-HD1080P-Novatek/dp/B00J2OVN74/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1409156259&amp;sr=1-2
H(Hidden) G1W $79.99 - http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Detection-Recorder-Technology/dp/B00HMNFWYW/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1409156259&amp;sr=1-3
Weird. I've bought four G1W-H cameras and all of them work perfectly with no gaps between files. Are you sure that you got a legitimate camera? There are a lot of knock-offs.
G1W-H is a great starting point in dash cams.
For a recommendation, I bought two of these last year after someone intentionally rammed my vehicle several times on the gulf freeway because I would not let him cut me off. they have proved invaluable since. i wish there was a way i could submit dash cam footage with a police report easily.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HMNFWYW/
I had my mechanic run the usb power to the car's battery so when i start the car the cameras start (cost me $30 to have this done). I have one in the front and one in the back. They are wide angle lenses so they capture quite a bit; and they have accelerometers that will write-lock a section of footage when an "incident" occurs.
my only qualm is that the quality could be better; but license plates and faces come out just fine.
YouTube compression even crushed some of the quality. It's a G1W-H, bought from here, took less than 2 weeks for delivery. I'd highly recommend it for the price.
It's just the Custom One Pro Plus, not two variants.
___
In my opinion I prefer the Custom One Studio/DT770/80ohm with any cheap dac/amp to fully power them such as this or this.
With the second one, you have to have an optical out on your pc, and you have to buy an optical cable.
Save up a bit and get the monoprice dac/amp combo: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW
This may be due to your on-board sound. Before spending, I would test out the headphones on a different PC/source. Make sure it isn't just the headphones themselves.
Then, when you are ready to buy, get an external dac/amp, basically an external sound card. Check out the Micca Origen($100), Fiio E10k($76), Monoprice Dac/Amp($80), and SMSL SD793-II($63).
Fiio E10k is the popular under-$100 choice (and deservedly so) but if you can find the Micca Origen on sale for less than $100 like it is right now on Amazon, it's good too. For a desktop amp, the Monoprice Desktop DAC/amp is decent for that price range.
Is it worth upgrading to this amp if I have this one already? https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
I have the HD600s.
It really depends on your budget.
You can get a decent DAC like this one on a budget http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-M2-Portable-headphone-amplifier/dp/B00KL3SACQ/ref=sr_1_18?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1427350827&amp;sr=1-18
But I'd recommend the the monoprice AMP/DAC brick http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1427350898&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=monoprice+amp+dac
For the money, it's got everything you'll probably ever need and is actually pretty damn good.
The most expensive "desktop" DAC I'd recommend is JDS Labs ODAC http://www.jdslabs.com/products/46/standalone-odac/
It's basically as good as a DAC can get before you start getting into the receiver world.
As for what standalone DAC/AMPs actually "do," the best way to sum it up is that a good DAC will eliminate any sort of noise being generated by your PC and accurately translate your digital signal to an analog one. Better DACs will give you a more accurate signal to work with but there's only so much you can do before you're just wasting money.
AMPs on the other hand, vary wildly in what they do. Some amps, specifically tube amps, will "color" the signal to be warmer. Some people like this as it takes the "digital edge" off of music, but they're really nothing a good EQ couldn't replicate on a neutral AMP/DAC combo. Bad AMPs introduce tons of noise and distortion into your signal, good AMPs don't. Good amps also offer better separation between the left and right channels. The sky is really the limit on AMPs when it comes to price to performance but the bulk of that performance is going to be in raw power rather than in quality.
A good standalone AMP would be the Schiit Magni 2 http://schiit.com/products/magni-2
Their DAC the Modi 2 is also REALLY good, especially for the money. I have the Modi v1 on my desk right now and short of buying an ODAC, I don't think I could be happier with my setup.
Hope this helps!
The technology is already pretty common. The only difference now is a newer version of Thunderbolt.
Well it's something you'd leave on your desk and unplug when you wanted to move around just like a PC.
apple/comments/31sa47/has_anyone_used_a_external_gpu_through_thunderbolt/
http://www.amazon.com/Akitio-Thunder2-PCIe-Box/dp/B00LTAUTHE
This works with TB 1 too. Obviously you'd need a GPU to stick in it.
https://www.amazon.com/Akitio-AMZ-T2PC-TIA-AKTU-Thunder2-PCIe/dp/B00LTAUTHE
There are also a lot of build guides out there. I have no idea if you're able to use one with your PC tho, and I've never tried to build one myself.
The wiring kit and the add a fuse tap. Get whichever tap for your size fuse in your interior fuse box. Run the wires in the headliner and down the a pillar.
I recommend the a118c dash cam.
https://www.amazon.com/Dash-Camera-Vehicle-Hard-Wire/dp/B00MH4ZVHO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474857212&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=dash+cam+wiring+kit
https://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-Blade--Circuit-Holder/dp/B001QRSBW0/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474857229&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=add+a+fuse
Most people suggest this one here I am using this but the capacitor version is always suggested over the battery. I haven't run into any issues so far. I can only see the corner of it poking out of my mirror so it doesn't obstruct my view.
I was able to hard wire it with these:
Power adaptor
Fuse add-a-curcuit
I followed this video for my install: https://youtu.be/kTZ6_guh6nM
I used this hardwire kit for my A119 dashcam: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MH4ZVHO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I recommend a G1W-CB
Black Box G1W-CB "Black Bezel" Capacitor Model Dash Camera - Heat Resistant - Full HD 1080P H.264 2.7" LCD Car DVR Video Recorder - WDR 140° Wide Angle 4x Zoom Motion Detection Night Vision G-Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P8F3LD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_37xGyb818ZP3F
It's inexpensive and mine is real reliable. I've had it running for 3 years now.
Add a wiring kit so you can hide the wire in the headliner and it will go on/off when you start the car automatically.
This is the one I have. The C means capacitor instead of battery since it gets too hot in Atlanta to have a device with a battery sitting on your dash all day and the B means the lens is black so it's less conspicuous.
I got This SD card. The camera supports up to 32gb. Don't buy SanDisk with this camera, they don't play well.
And I got this attachment which is way better than the suction cup option.
Lastly, make sure if you buy this camera it records in .mov files. There some cheap knock offs that record in .avi that aren't 1080p.
Hope this helps.
Dash Cam Here
Also has a polarizing filter.
I got the Street Guardian SG9665GC for this very reason (among many others) as it has a supercapacitor and where I live temps outdoors reach 115F in the summer and I have not had any problems.
If you are new and overwhelmed you should check out dashcamtalk.com and look at their recommended devices. I have the A118C ("C" means it has a capacitor rather than a battery - I wouldn't bother with battery ones as they have lifespan issues) as it is a lot less conspicuous. Recommendation depends on your budget, but my budget preference is the A118C, you can get it off foxoffer on eBay for a bit cheaper than amazon.ca. Other sellers may give you a different build which has some audio issues. All versions should be able to take the firmware updates that are listed on dashcamtalk.
If you have a much higher budget and want/need better performance, especially at night, then you can go with the Street Guardian SG9665GC which has the same body style but a sony sensor, making it way better at night. Available on amazon here.
its a dash cam I got installed for car insurance purposes.
I have a Street Guardian SG9665GC v3 which sticks directly to the windshield. If you have a tinted strip at the top of your windshield then it's basically invisible.
It's powered by a standard USB cable, so I just tucked the cable into the headliner, then pulled the driver's side door seal and tucked the cable into the A-pillar. Ran the cable down to the fuse panel and plugged one of these 12v to 5v USB adapters into an add-a-circuit that has key-on-power.
As for the rear cam, I got a B40 camera (same form factor as the Street Guardian, with cheaper components inside) and ran a second usb cable tucked under along the edge of the carpet, up the C-pillar, across the rear headliner, and down to the back window.
I have this one. It's a bit on the expensive side, but the video quality is excellent.
But that being said, I've been spending too much time on r/roadcam and am starting to think I need one with a rear-camera too!
Thanks.
Your ST looks really nice too btw. I peeped your history. Never liked the older ones, but the newer ones like yours and the RS. Sweet Jesus the RS haha.
My dashcam is the A118-C. Got mine off Gearbest here. Which is actually on sale for $50 right now. It's a great entry level dashcam. Only issue I have with it is lens warp. The housing around the lens is plastic and when heated warps slightly. Which causes some focus issues.
Some of my videos during the day on my youtube show this. It's the right hand side that suffers for me. Other than that, it's an amazing cam.
Some other great entry level cams are the G1W and the Mini 0805.
If you like the form factor of the A118, but want better recording quality and build (metal lens housing that eliminates warping). You can buy the Street Guardian SG9665GC. Though it is a little pricier at $200. Worth it though. Here is a comparison between my A118 and the SG9665GC.
I am actually thinking about upgrading to the Street Guardian for my front and move my A118-C to the rear.
Dashcamtalk (link with comparison) is a great forum to get info about cams. There are many more than what I listed. So browse around and research some before buying.
Hope this helps.
Hey I just got the same car as you like 4 days ago! Yes it is a super annoying truth but no you can not play music through bluetooth. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B52LLJ6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 Buy this and you will be able to. I got one and it should arrive tomorrow. I will tell you how it works if you want.
whats the difference between that and http://www.amazon.com/Falcon-Zero-F360-HD-Mirror/dp/B00E56WY18/ref=pd_sim_107_2?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41HcYxHvzcL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=1Z3CBN2XWR860M1A012Q
other than the SD card and $50?
I run a Falcon Zero F360, but use their provided USB plugin. I don't notice the camera or plugin at all. Ran the wire through my roofliner, side column and inside the dash, until I got to the USB port (only 6-8 inches of cord showing at the bottom and top)
(comes with a 3 USB plug in, so you dont loose a port.)
https://www.amazon.com/Falcon-Zero-F360-HD-Mirror/dp/B00E56WY18
Falcon Zero F360 HD DVR Dual Dash Cam, Rear View Mirror, 1080p, 32GB SD Card (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E56WY18/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_EUxFwbV9E5DMA
I love this one. It plugs into your cigarette lighter and because it goes over your rear view mirror, you won't get an obstruction of view ticket from a cop if ever pulled over. It's also super easy to use and has two cameras (front facing and rear facing or you can both front facing) it uses an SD card and overwrites itself when it runs out of space so unless you want to save something off of it you never have to deal with the memory.
Edit: it also records audio, but you can turn that off if you sing in your car like me
OP said it what this one in the other thread.
Yo compré la mía en Amazon: Falcon Zero F360
Con esta, lo único que tienes que hacer es clippearla encima de tu retrovisor, y conectar la vaina al encendedor. Super fácil de instalar y de mantener.
https://www.amazon.com/Falcon-Zero-F360-HD-Mirror/dp/B00E56WY18
Recorded using this model: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E56WY18
This was the very first time I used it. On the freeway for 5 seconds and bam!
Would you recommend the "Hidden" one with a slightly wider view for $7 more?
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-H-Hidden-Dashboard/dp/B00HMNFWYW/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1411420325&amp;sr=1-2
Black Box G1W-H Hidden Dashboard Dash Cam - WDR 160° Wide Angle 4X ZOOM - Full HD 1080P H.264 2.7" LCD Car DVR Video Recorder - Night Vision Motion Detection G-Sensor - NT96650 + AR0330 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HMNFWYW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DlZCxbKNA836X
Well that was quite the word vomit from the Amazon app.
Seriously though. I have it. Got it based on recommendations from other users here.
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-H-Hidden-Dash/dp/B00HMNFWYW Best dashcam under 100 euro. You can order it at Amazon.de
My buddy has this and recommends it.
Says that there's lots of counterfeits, and to check /r/dashcam for sellers.
Of course there's a subreddit for that.
A lot of people I know are using this one http://www.amazon.co.uk/Car-Audio-Novatek-Detection-Recorder-G-sensor-Technology/dp/B00HMNFWYW
It's £25 and is packed full of features :)
I second the dashcam -- a decent one is less than $50 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HMNFWYW/montalia). Get two SD cards and swap them after anything hinky or questionable happens so you don't lose the record. It'll also give you some protection if you're in an accident and not at fault. No he-said/she-said about the color the light was if you have video.
I bought one a couple months ago and I love it. I've actually recorded one accident at an intersection already (luckily not my own) and was able to offer the footage to those involved and the police if they needed it. After doing some research I heard a lot of good things about the G1W. There are knockoffs, but the one I got from "Black Box" on amazon appears to be legit. I got the "stealth" one as well for less glare from it. Here's the links to everything you need it you want to pick up a good one for a good price:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HMNFWYW
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CES44EO
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JWGC29U
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L3XXRI0
If you've got prime (which you should because it's fuckin awesome. Seriously get it or find a friend with it and get on theirs) then this whole setup almost exactly a hundred bucks and you're all set to go.
PS, great car, how long have you had her? Sorry to see the damage.
> Even a lower end audiophile DAC changes the game.
I don't know how "audiophile" my Monoprice DAC is but yes, it's been a world of difference since I got mine vs on board sound.
edit: to the guy who deleted his comment, this one
to use the SA60 you could combine it with something like Monoprice desktop amp: usb/aux input, with both fixed and variable lineouts to send signal to SA60...this might be somewhat more expensive but would give you a better speaker amp as well as a higher powered headphone amp when compared to the all-in-one VX1
That would work, though it's probably overkill. If you're also using it to power speakers when not listening to headphones that could be cool. But, you might want to consider something with USB.
I use a monoprice headphone amp with my HD600 and it works phenomenally. https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW
Gotcha! http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW
Solid amp. Plenty of RCAs (ins and outs) and a nice volume knob.
Do you already have a headphone amp or happen to have a stereo amp or receiver with a headphone jack?
Lowest decent entry level Audio-Technica AT-LP60XHP $129 has a headphone jack for easy to drive headphones.
Or a better Teac TN-300SE Black or Walnut $150 with Coupon code SPIN in the shopping cart click "Have a promo code" above the subtotal on top. The Teac also has a built in phono stage preamp.
Then add a $100 headphone amp: [z]GUIDE[s] \\\ SEPARATE DAC & AMP & TUBE-AMP
Or under $100:
Or look for a better used turntable, often vintage 70s and budget in a stylus replacement $30 to $50 if it does not have a new one.
If it does not have a built in phono stage preamp, you will need to add one before the headphone amp, or use a basic entry level combo preamp and headphone amp, Nobsound T12 Phono Preamp Headphone Amplifier $35 or Depusheng PP500 $25.
Appreciate all this. Helpful to hear from someone who went through the same thing.
What about this amp for an even more budget minded person, though?
With 140mW at 32 Ohm (2.1VRMS) you cannot drive an HD650. I highly recommend you upgrade to a more competent headphone amplifier.
For the HD650 you ideally want something with 3VRMS power or more, for example the Monoprice Desktop Amplifier.
I have a similar setup. Buy these:
http://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice%C2%AE-PREMIUM-6-Feet-Stereo-Plated/dp/B001VIYYCK/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1448947514&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=rca+cable
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW
Have fun good sir, should be plug and play.
> http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW
Should be [$20 cheaper via Jet with the promo "NEWTOJET"] (https://jet.com/product/Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier-11567/f9210e741f7a4f4ab44cdd35e1e83aa0).
Edit: "NEWTOJET" may be expired. If so, "20NOW" should still work for $15 off, I believe.
I think a DAC would be useful over your motherboard audio. What you need is one with a line out connection to run to your amp. I would recommend the Monoprice headphone amp/dac: Monoprice Desktop Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVVX2QW/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_IAZzwb2V4C040
Honestly the mix amp and the fiio e10k most likely wouldn't output enough power to power anything over 64 ohm. Your best bet would be to get this monoprice amp that's $10 more then the fiio but is rated to power 16 to 600 ohm headphones with a gain selection. This would at least help future proof you for any headphones you get in the future. I hope this helps.
Monoprice desktop amp:
Monoprice Desktop Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVVX2QW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_g0LQCbY27BTDN
Nothing was Prime Day sale or anything, but I got these beautiful bastards and I'll be driving them with this. I could do a lot better with amps and DACs but I was already $500 deep so I'll settle with this for now and upgrade that stuff later. The wait until Tuesday night is going to be painful. Haven't upgraded in like 4 years.
Turn off ambient occlusion, shadows off, dynamic reflections to off, those are the biggest trouble makers (Even on recent cards). On Intel integrated models/lighting/textures also have to be low.
I've noticed the game when set to auto, even if it lowers below 50%, can be worse than locking it to 50% render scale manually (It can bounce above 50% when it shouldn't). re: tested it on an intel igpu, but I use an amd rx 480 instead.
Edit: The game doesn't allow lower than 50% render scale when done manually, so you'll have to set a lower non-native resolution than what your display actually is, while keeping render scale at 50%.
That said, I have gotten it to run 60 fps solid at the lowest possible settings at 1080p (50% render scale, lowest gfx settings) on intel integrated on a Skylake 6700k (desktop enthusiast cpu with integrated gpu). Like I said though, I use an AMD rx 480 instead though, because why splurge on a cpu and not gpu?
The game isn't CPU bound, so you probably could hook up a real GPU card via a thunderbolt to PCIe adapter to get the full desktop experience on the macbook pro under bootcamp.
example: https://www.amazon.com/Akitio-AMZ-T2PC-TIA-AKTU-Thunder2-PCIe/dp/B00LTAUTHE
Various types of connections to get it going but they have been out there. For quite some time.
Solution 1
Solution 2
Solution 3
For those of you interested:
This Akitio Thunder2 is mostly all you need to connect a discrete graphics card to your Thunderbolt 2/3 port.
A user named nando4, found here on TechInferno's DIY eGPU section has done a lot of work to make DIY eGPU's a reality.
All else you need is a PSU with a jumper, if your card uses more than PCI-Express's 75W and an enclosure if you use a particularly large card.
Beyond that, most guides recommend using an Nvidia GPU because their use of Optimus allows you to use your internal notebook display, not requiring an external display to use your graphics card.
However, there's also a performance hit of around 7-10% if you use an internal LCD.
AMD cards are supported if you're doing an external display.
With Windows 8.1, the device and setup is mostly plug and play, but there are workarounds if necessary.
The total cost for an enclosure plus Akitio plus a PSU, if you utilize the group buy on TechInferno is easily under $300.
This is a very affordable option to someone who uses a MacBook for software work, wants to game, but doesn't want to invest into a full desktop.
This is also amazing for the same person who wants something to carry to a LAN event, but doesn't want to carry around a large PC.
This is also great for someone who travels a lot, who has a notebook with TB ports, who wants to game while traveling for work.
This is also great for someone who does complex rendering, animation or editing or video work and doesn't want to carry around a Mac Pro.
Overall, this is just great.
https://www.amazon.com/Akitio-Thunder2-PCIe-Box-intended/dp/B00LTAUTHE
For 200 Bucks you are almost half way to a decent VR pc minus the GPU.
http://www.amazon.com/Akitio-AMZ-T2PC-TIA-AKTU-Thunder2-PCIe/dp/B00LTAUTHE
Here's my parts list
Akitio Thunder 2
NIVIDIA GTX 970 Mini-ITX
Corsair CM450
Cooler Master Elite 130 w/o PSU
PCIe to Molex adapter
90 degree PCIe riser
Here is a post on TechInferno about eGPUs. These guys are super helpful and have loads of tutorials. Still not a project for the faint of heart!
You would need a PCIe dock, they run about $200 like this, and a m.2 to PCIe size adapter, another $15 like this, and then you need a machine that has a thunderbolt port to use that dock.
Edited
I would buy this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LTAUTHE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465830352&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=akitio+egpu
Also scroll down when you open the link and find the "frequently bought together" and buy all 3 it should cost $264. It's the Akitio EGPU. Also the actual graphics card you will want to get the gtx 1080/1070, or 980 Ti.
The total should be under $1000
I can answer the dashcam wiring for you. Best way that I have found is to use a fuse tap like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Qiorange--circuit-Adapter-Blade-Holder/dp/B015GYN38A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464329991&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=fuse+tap
You will also need the appropriate fuse for that particular dashcam. And you will need a 12V to 5V converter for the dashcam. Like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Dash-Camera-Vehicle-Hard-Wire/dp/B00MH4ZVHO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464330070&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=dash+cam+wire
PS: Best part about this one is that you can install an inline fuse, which is much easier to find an appropriate rated fuse than it is with the automotive fuses.
Very easy. The hardest part was putting the damned A-pillar back in. You will need the add-a-fuse and a hardwire kit like this. The red wire will connect to the add-a-fuse wire and the black wire goes to ground (there's a bolt just above the fuse box that you could use as the ground). The add-a-fuse is pretty much making a single fuse slot be able to have two fuses on there; one for the original fuse and one for the dash cam fuse. And then the mini usb end obviously goes to the dash cam.
The A-pillar comes off pretty easily. Take caution though as there are air bags in there. You'll need to pry out the airbag logo clip thing and undo the T-20 screw behind it. Next, you just pull the pillar towards you and it should pop off. I zip tied the wires to some existing wires behind the a-pillar and away from the air bags. Then I just stuffed the wires under the front of the headliner and to the rear view mirror area.
No problem! I feel like there was another con or something else I wanted to say about it, but I can't remember....
Biggest complaint is that cigarette lighter power plug. It's huge, it's ugly, and if you bump it slightly it stops making contact and your camera turns off.
Im gonna install another fuses circuit into my fuse box and run this to it. I just haven't gotten around to it because I've never installed a new fuse circuit before and it sounds like kinda a scary task, haha.
finally pulled the trigger, it been a long time since i wanted one. The only thing that kept me from doing it was that i wanted it hardwire not freaking wires going to my cig lighter port. Well after spending 5 minutes on youtube it's not really hard at all... So i went out to my car to see what would to be done and doubt it will take me no more than 10 minutes to set up.
Just in case anyone want to know what i ordered for their selves
SpyTec A119 + GPS Logger 1440p Car Dash Camera
Spy Tec Dash Camera Vehicle Hard Wire Kit
fuse tap
Lexar High-Performance microSDHC 633x 32GB
There's no difference between the two cams in your cart.
Why not grab this hard wire kit? It's a bit cheaper. These things are pretty generic and should work for any camera.
Just searched through my old orders and coincidentally - or not - that is the exact one I purchased that wouldn't work in the cold (but in the UK);
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MH4ZVHO
So a good chance its the cause of your problem imho. I replaced it with a Nextbase kit which has performed faultlessly since (but I can't see them on Amazon.com);
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00XHYSQAC
I used this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MH4ZVHO
Bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MH4ZVHO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and tapped into the wiring for the overhead "room lights" using Scotchloks. As far as "good" goes, I just had to replace this as the last one for my A118 only last two years.
OP, my assumption is that you are looking for a very long cable in order to hardwire the camera? If that's the case you are probably wanting something like this: Spytec hardware kit
The kit is very long, definitely long enough to make it from a fuse box to anywhere in the front of your car. I recently wired two of those into my car, one for my rear cam as well, and I did have to splice in about 6' of wire to make it long enough. It was super easy to do though.
An easy way to attach it to your fuse box it with these: add a fuse 5 pack they plug into a existing fuse hole, and you put the fuse into the tap. It gives you the red wire feed you need for the hardware kit. The black wire for the kit goes to ground (and has a metal semicircle for bolting to an existing frame bolt, not pictured in the Amazon picture)
As far as memory car durability, try to get a MLC type memory made for dashcams (stay away from SanDisk Ultra). Here is a good article about it
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MH4ZVHO/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A8IQBBGLCSUJ7
Do you use the above power cord for constant power? I actually have this model in my amazon cart.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P8F3LD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QM8SBbPHD2J95
This is the one I have. I've had it for 3.5 years and the only issue I've had with it didn't start until a week ago. The date and time keep resetting so I have to set that up every time. It's kind of annoying but it only takes 30 seconds. I'll keep it until it dies fully.
You'll also need to get an SD card for it.
I know this doesn't help in the least bit now.
But for any future possible issues I highly suggest getting a nice always on recording dashcam.
This is the one I currently use.
It stays in my truck and is always recording, I have a 64 gig SD card and it will record for around 12 hours before starting to overwrite the oldest file, any knock or hit or sudden stop will lock a file from deletion and prevent it from being overwritten.
It has paid for itself 100 times over easily.
Many dashcams run fine on USB power - the 12V lead just converts the voltage down to 5V.
So you could conceivably use more or less any dashcam, paired with a mobile phone power bank (like this one), which would also be useful for other things.
The hot weather requirement makes me think something with a capacitor (e.g. G1W-CB) might be ideal.
Here is a link to amazon my_search. I'm thinking of getting it myself. Reading up on this subreddit, this model seems like a good bang-for-your-buck buy.
We have the Eyesite too, and it works fine. I mounted my dashcam on the bottom of the rear view mirror. It came with a windshield mount too. Here is the one I have in all my vehicles: https://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-CB-Capacitor-Dashboard/dp/B00P8F3LD0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478556456&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=dash+cam+capacitor
After quite a bit of research I went with the G1W-C because it has a capacitor built to withstand high heat, and I live in FL. For the price, it's awesome. Super easy to use and does its job perfectly.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TXR2P40/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481304175&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=dash+cam+black+box&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41m3ffJV8RL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00P8F3LD0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481304175&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=dash+cam+black+box&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41jiRifcioL&amp;ref=plSrch
Two very solid dashcams. /r/dashcam can be of help too! :)
http://www.amazon.com/Street-Guardian-SG9665GC-Supercapacitor-DashCam/dp/B00U0OJMYG?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=od_aui_detailpages00
This one
I use this dashcam and I like it a lot - picture quality is pretty good even at night - and it's definitely the better of the two I've owned in the past few years. That said I don't actually know a whole lot about dashcams so someone else might be better recommending one.
Whatever dashcam you get, I'd recommend getting one of these and plugging it into a USB port instead of the standard car charger because the car charger continues to power it when the car is off, while the USB ports turn off with the car. Otherwise you'd have to unplug it every time you turn the car off or leave it running 24/7.
This is the one I'm looking at getting soon. For anyone else here looking for a dashcam, make sure you get one with a supercapacitor instead of a battery. Batteries will fail in extreme heat (every summer) while supercapacitors will not.
I have the older model of the Street Guardian SG9665GC v3 2017 edition.
Buy the 12v to 5v adapter in the “frequently bought together” list. You will need the “add a circuit” too, but you need the micro blade one.
I have had to use my dash cam footage in a parking lot MVC (other party backed into me doing $5,500 in damage). It was really helpful to send the insurance company the footage.
+1 on the dash cam. I use two Contour ROAM3 cameras. 1080P and wireless; when the battery on one dies I swap it out on the go. They have helped me out a few times when I've been in accidents that were not my fault.
I also just had a Street Guardian installed in my daughter's car.
I have a Street Guardian hard wired in my 2012 F150. Haven't needed it so far but I'm very satisfied.
http://www.amazon.com/Street-Guardian-SG9665GC-Camera-Edition/dp/B00U0OJMYG
Join us over in /r/dashcam
This is the model I got: https://www.amazon.com/Street-Guardian-SG9665GC-Android-Supercapacitor/dp/B00U0OJMYG
I got the 64 gig one with out the CPL.
Here you go.
https://www.amazon.com/Street-Guardian-SGZC12RC-Performance-Supercapacitor/dp/B00TERYK5Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480384888&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=street+guardian
I have one of their all-in-one models and it is great:
https://www.amazon.com/Street-Guardian-SG9665GC-Supercapacitor-DashCam/dp/B00U0OJMYG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480384888&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=street+guardian
It is quite small.
This is what I use. It supports up to 256GB.
I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-DashCam-included-IMX291-Novatek/dp/B01MFAK888?th=1
It's been through 1 summer and have had no issues.
This is one of the ones I've been looking at upgrading to:
https://smile.amazon.com/VIOFO-A119S-DashCam-Updated-Novatek/dp/B01MFAK888/
Which one do you have?
It's Viofo A119S V2
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFAK888/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This one : https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01MFAK888/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Just look up A119 and you will get a ton of info.
It was pretty affordable.
I did my research on sd cards too, make sure you get one that works for dashcams.
Haha no way I got the A119S too with the gps module that records your location and speed. It records audio very well too.
I bought it last August, worked fine in the winter when it was super cold out because it doesn't use a battery.
For storage I got a Transcend 32GB High Endurance microSD card. From the little research I did they cost a little more than a normal SD card but are better for dash cams and such.
I'm satisfied with the purchase myself for $158 total it was a very fair price and the quality is good enough at 1080 60fps, wide enough to see drivers next to you, catches enough light at night or during snow/rainstorms to see license plates I have no complaints. Would be nice to have one facing out the back now though in case someone rear ends you or something.
I have this one - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075S7W6FR/ and it seems to perform very well, I can't compare it to the F770 though as I haven't used it, but you can see some footage from the linked one from other buyers and judge the quality for yourself.
Aukey DR02
https://smile.amazon.com/AUKEY-Wide-Angle-G-Sensor-Dual-Port-Charger/dp/B075S7W6FR
Aukey makes a quality one that is fairly inexpensive
AUKEY Dual Dash Cam, 1080P HD Front and Rear Camera, 6-Lane 170° Wide-Angle Lens, Night Vision, G-Sensor, Dual-Port Car Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075S7W6FR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CkM-Bb8YN1N8B
Little more than $100
We just installed this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075S7W6FR after review by techmoan. It's way more expensive, but it's a very nice dual cam.
Someone on reddit recommended the next base 422gw and his video was spectacular. I don't know shit about this kind of tech so I blindly bought it. Haven't "needed" it yet which is a good thing IMO. I like that it has higher resolution and a higher frame rate than some of the ones on amazon with higher ratings or more ratings. I think the viewing angle is a cunt hair lower than the highest rated cams on amazon (aukey dual dash cam, link below). I'll gladly have higher resolution and frame rate over view angle, but maybe I'm a renob for thinking that, idk...
Nextbase amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PV1Q979/
Aukey amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075S7W6FR/
AUKEY Dual Dash Cam HD 1080P Front and Rear Camera Car Camera Supercapacitor 6-Lane 170 Degrees Wide-Angle Lens Dashcam with Night Vision, Loop, G-Sensor, Motion Detection and Dual-Port Car Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075S7W6FR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jhfWDbB7RYYPF
Been using this awhile now. Quality is great. Well worth it.
The wiring is easy, (can tap a fuse for switchable current, use cig lighter, or tap a dimmable /powered mirror that has current for garage door switches, etc) and I've not gone wireless so to speak on my choices.. Best bang for buck currently out is the Aukey 2 channel system. It sells out quickly and the capacitor based cameras (can take more heat and cold ie last longer than battery internal based ones) w the sony sensors give a very good quality feed. They make huge advances in this tech realm about every year or so.. But I'm using the same wiring I had in place for 4 years now. I just change the cameras and SD cards (they have a limited amount of use, overwrites and there are cards meant for these types of dash cameras believe it or not).
AUKEY Dual Dash Cam, 1080P HD Front and Rear Camera, 6-Lane 170° Wide-Angle Lens, Night Vision, G-Sensor, Dual-Port Car Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075S7W6FR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pAe7Ab0ABS6N3
And the High Endurance card..i shop around and don't always go the Amazon route. Fuck taxes lol.. Getting around them online will be a thing of the distant past here verrrry soon.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1123508-REG/sandisk_sdsdqq_064g_g46a_64gb_high_endurance_video.html
I bought this one. I like it a lot. Plus, it uses a capacitor in stead of a battery, so you won't have to worry about a swelling, possibly bursting, lithium battery:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075S7W6FR/
It's not inexpensive, but this is the one I have. It has great night viewing capability and the cord for the rear camera is long enough that I had to wrap it in my compact car's ceiling to keep the excess cord away.
I'm sure you can find cheaper ones on Amazon if you read through the reviews, but I've been using it for about a year and I haven't had any problems with playback.
That camera is awesome but if you live somewhere that gets really hot in the summer (gets up to 100 where I live pretty routinely) you may want to consider getting a camera that runs off of a capacitor instead of a battery. This is what I got when my last one melted.
I'm using an Aukey Dual Dash Cam.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075S7W6FR/
I'm happy with it so far. Quality is good. Night vision seems fine.
I T-boned a guy coming out of a side street and my dash cam helped make sure he got the citation despite being the one who got hit (he failed to observe the correct right-of-way).
My son is 16. For Christmas he got https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075S7W6FR/ and installed the front and rear cameras before he ever had a license. We hope it's never needed but if so I sincerely wish it shows him as the innocent party in an accident.
Same position, so I ended up just getting this one by Anker because it was cheap and the samples look good. Like it so far, and I don't think anything more expensive would be worth it for me.
Roav DashCam A1, by Anker, Dash Cam, Dashboard Camera Recorder, 1080P FHD, Nighthawk Vision, Wide-Angle View, WiFi, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording, and Night Mode https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076GYGVY5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MVzCCbF3CDHAS
Are you shitting me? For $200 it better have gps. There are plenty of dash cams out there with mini cams meant for reversing that you could use for inside the car, if you are looking for a dual lens cam. This Dashcam by Roav/Anker is a great product. Comes with the right 32gb micro sd card you need for recording and it has WiFi to connect to your phone to display what it sees, as well as other info, in the app. It also has GPS built in, great feature for tracking your trips. Shock sensor, etc. I really like that you mount it and take it off the mount when you want, unlike others where you end up ruining the suction cup. One of my favorite features is how Anker really does look out for you by providing not only the MicroSD card but a 2-Port charger and a cable. This is by the same company but it’s a cheaper, A1. This one doesn’t come with the micro SD but if found a nice one for $7-10. It also has WiFi so it syncs with an app on your phone but no gps. They also give you a charger but only a 1 port. IMO you can spend a ton on some random dash cam or buy quality and from a company with great customer service aka Anker. If it’s dual lens you’re looking for, I’m currently shopping around as well finding draw backs with each one. If only Roav made one...
I have the Roav Dashcam S1 for the road. Great quality video and recording of sound. Easy to setup and use. I would assume the Roav Dashcam a1 would be just as good and it can face everyone in the car. https://www.amazon.com/Dashboard-Recorder-Nighthawk-Wide-Angle-Recording/dp/B076GYGVY5/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549496163&sr=8-3&keywords=roav
Keep in mind that you never want to underinsured and exposed to loss but you also want to make sure that you’re not overinsured and be paying for coverage that you’ll (hopefully) never need.
And you’re spot on about what you can and can’t control which is why a few months ago I bought this dash cam so that if I ever need to dispute an accident then there’s no doubt. It plugs into a USB port in my car and when I turn the car on the camera automatically turns on and when I turn the car off the camera automatically turns off after a minute or so. Without a doubt one of the best purchases I made in 2018.
Roav DashCam A1, by Anker, Dash Cam, Dashboard Camera Recorder, 1080P FHD, Nighthawk Vision, Wide-Angle View, WiFi, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording, and Night Mode https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076GYGVY5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6ANwCbR21NDT6
There are a number of car dashcams that have wifi to view/download clips (a hotspot that you log into with an app on your phone). They run on 5V (mini or micro USB connector), so you can use a standard phone charger to power them. They loop record, overwriting the oldest clip, so micro SD card size (and resolution setting) dictates how many hours it can hold.
One example, but if you search for wifi dashcam, you'll find others.
This is the one I use. I got a micro SD card with that had 128gb file size. Hope this helps. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076GYGVY5/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_Sgv3DbB49W5X8
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076GYGVY5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
On lightning deal right now, I have the same one. Super easy install, works great, pulls videos easy via app over wifi. Just needs SD card.
ROAV
For night, the A129 without the CPL is probably your best bet. Fortunately it's cheaper than the version with the CPL. Also, it's got the low light vision sensor.
This one has paid for itself 10x over in the two wrecks I've had within the past year. Once was in a parking garage and the other time I got rear-ended and pushed into the car in front of me.
It's an investment, but it's well worth it in my experience.
> A129
Further up, someone recommended the A129 which is a dual cam version of the A119.
https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-2-Channel-1080p-Camera-Logger/dp/B07CT6JPYW
Going to get this
https://www.amazon.ca/VIOFO-2-Channel-1080p-Camera-Logger/dp/B07CT6JPYW
Right now I have the A119 front only but I'm going to replace with this. One of my videos made the local news for road rage.
edit : check https://www.reddit.com/r/Dashcam/ on the right side.
I bought mine a few weeks back pieced together on Amazon. I saw that listing too, but I skipped it because it looks like you get 4 different types of fuse taps. And you need two of the correct type. So I think you'll end up with one fuse tap that works and 3 that are useless, but I could be wrong. Here's what I did:
$10 coupon brings it to $160 for the A129 with gps mount:
VIOFO A129 Duo 2-Channel Full HD 1080p 30fps Car Dash Camera with GPS Logger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CT6JPYW/
VIOFO A129 Dash Cam 3 Wire Acc HK3 Hardwire Kit for Parking Mode https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K83R5W1/
ABN Fuse Tap Fuse Holder & Fuse 2-Pack – 12V Add a Circuit Kit – ATM Low Profile Mini Fuse Blade & 15A AMP Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU59K90/
This is only ~$1.50 more than the listing you were looking at but it definitely has the right fuse taps.
This is what I would go with. I got the version without GPS for $10 less and immediately regretted it, so then purchased the GPS mount for like 12 bucks.
Amazon link for the lazy:
VIOFO A129 Duo 2-Channel Full HD 1080p 30fps Car Dash Camera GPS Logger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CT6JPYW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_b7WMBbVEFR1EZ
How do group buys work OP?
Viofo A129 GPS Dual Lens Dash Cam Full HD 1080P 140° Wide Angle Dashboard Camera w/GPS, Low Light Vision G-Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CT6JPYW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2gJSDb2JYRGV2
I highly recommend any dashcam period but I like this one since it’s well hidden, has both front and back, and you can view the videos on your phone by streaming them to the app. However the quality can be a lot better. So if you want quality over functionality I would recommend another one.
I use the Viofo A129. Had it for a few months now after upgrading from a different model. This camera is awesome.
Viofo A129.
I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U0OJMYG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Two important things to know: 1) If you use a different car adapter than the one included ( like if you want to power other things at the same time) you have to make sure you are supplying at least 2 amps. 2) It is supposed to be self erasing, but every couple of weeks it tells me the card is full, and I have to format it myself to start using it again.
Over all, I do recommend it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U0OJMYG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
comes with 32 gig card. lots of wire to property go around the windshield. Adhesive mounting bracket (suction cups fail out here in the heat, the 3M adhesive should hold up better)
The big plus is it runs off a capacitor and not a battery. Heat kills batteries and this model does without. It doesn't say the 140 degrees on the amazon page but it is in the manual. I bought an extra 3 years protection plan for ~10 bucks and never looked back.
I use the front-dashcam-only version of this one. Got it during last year's Prime Day (about the only good thing I got that day lol) and have been very pleased with it. Drivers in my city are complete morons so it's caught some interesting moments...
I use this Reving dashcam with a 64GB SD card I got for ~10 off of Amazon too. I've had it for about a few months now, and it's already paid for itself. I didn't get into an accident, but a lady ahead of me did where a man did an illegal uturn and she t-boned him with no chance to fully stop. I don't know if it was insurance fraud or what the guy thought he was doing, but I was able to present my footage afterwards and very quickly help the police determine fault. If I had to get another dashcam, I would get one with a rearview monitor / face monitor on it as well as one with motion sensing like this one. Check out r/roadcam for more dashcam action too.
I believe I have found the camera with 1080p on both cameras.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EX8ATKK/ref=sspa_dk_detail_8?psc=1&amp;pd_rd_i=B01EX8ATKK&amp;pd_rd_w=fdHEq&amp;pf_rd_p=10ebaf99-73de-4f5d-a994-e7f5fc52f86f&amp;pd_rd_wg=42xXH&amp;pf_rd_r=3CS0ZMVZKNFQJNV5V8R0&amp;pd_rd_r=5834fe18-29c3-11e9-950e-c9e76c8cf3b3
I know you’ve gotten a few suggestions, but I use this guy: https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B01EX8ATKK
It’s front and back and I really like it. I haven’t had to use any of the footage (thankfully) but it’s a good picture. Front quality is a bit better than back but it’s still good. Only real negative I have come across is with the rear camera at night, it can’t pick up much if there are too many headlights behind me. Day it’s perfect though. Don’t have that problem with the front camera with lights. It operates on looped footage so it will overwrite the oldest. You can do it in 3,5 and 10 minute increments (I think). It also saves any footage if it detects a collision so you don’t have to worry about that getting overwritten
I have a Rexing V1P which appears to be lower end compared to yours. The rear camera is just standard def, which is better than no rear camera at all, but high def would be nice.
I may have to upgrade sometime...would the rear camera on yours be mountable on a vertical surface? E.g. the rear window of a truck?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EX8ATKK/ref=psdc_3248689011_t3_B00X528FNE
my first dashcam
Rexing V1P 2.4" LCD FHD 1080p 170 Degree Wide Angle Dual Channel Dashboard Camera Recorder Car Dash Cam with Rear Camera, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EX8ATKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TvknybVZK3Q0Z
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EX8ATKK/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This model has worked great! A bit of cheddar up front but I think it's worth it long-term.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EX8ATKK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This one has worked for me. Decent quality night video, I bought it last may and it still works fine. The suction cup mount I bought falls off every once in a while so I think I'm going to go through the trouble of thoroughly cleaning the inside of the windshield and stick on the permanent mounting adhesive pads.
Finally on PC...
So here is what i Use:
Cable
and
Ground Loop Isolator
Welcome to noisy grounds, hissing and spitting since 1969.
Buy an RCA or 1/4" TRS ground loop isolator, run it between your sound device and the input of the monitors. Problem solved.
For TRS
For RCA
They are about $15. It breaks the ground over the RCA connection which will instantly stop the noise from your computer and DAC. Switching USB ports, and using USB filters are not the best solution and might not even resolve it. Isolation is a common thing to do when running 2vRCA between any 2 pieces of equipment (or using xlr)
The ground the speakers amplifiers have, the ground on the audio cable connected to that amp, the ground of your audio device whether USB DAC or pc, all of these grounds are different, they carry different stray currents and noise, and since they are not a common ground, they act like an antenna rather than a noise blocker.
By isolating the ground over the speaker cables you break the antenna in half and remove the noise.
You've actually just ran into the real reason why XLR connections are preferred in pro-audio. Because the out of phase wiring, allows a signal wire summation that cancels out the noise. RCA and TR don't do that though. TRS (can) do that as it's 3 conductor just like XLR, but it would need to be 3 conductor TRS on both sides of the cable. I know the 305's are TRS, but what you're plugging into probably isn't unless it's a mixing deck.
You can buy it here it’s like $40. You can get dual lightning or a lightning and aux like mine. Also if you charge from the car you may need one of these to keep the signal noise from the charger from going to the head unit. All in all it cost me like $150 with the mount and cables and in my opinion it’s worth it.
I went and bought a ground loop isolator for 15 on Amazon and it works perfectly fine. Here is what I bought https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L1NP7YI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_kWKVj3VWRUdgk
Edit: It gets a lot worse if you are using the 3.5mm as an input into a pc through line it. That's why I needed the ground loop isolator.
You can also do it through your PC. That way you don't have to use the xbox controller. I have it set up so the HDMI is connected from my switch to the display, then I use this ground loop noise isolator and an aux cord to run the sound through my PC into my wireless headphones.
Pick you up some ground loop noise isolators for your 3.5mm connections. I had the same issue and these completely solved my issue.
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Ground-Isolator-Systems-Included/dp/B01L1NP7YI/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=ground+loop+noise+isolator&amp;qid=1573793214&amp;sprefix=ground+loo&amp;sr=8-7
Keep in mind that you might have electrical/ignition-noise related whine. If so, this will take care of it, putting it inline with the aux jack:
https://smile.amazon.com/AUKEY-Ground-Loop-Noise-Isolator-Stereo-Systems-Audio-Systems-Included/dp/B01L1NP7YI
I use the Anker bluetooth-to-aux adapter and had to get one of these to get rid of the whine in the background when I hit the gas, etc.
I purchased a similar cable harness online for my 2006 3 hatchback, and it works really well. However, old 3's and 6's produce a lot of EM feedback, so you're going to need a ground loop isolator with 3.5mm jacks like this on Amazon. . Otherwise, if you're charging a phone or accelerating hard, the noise will be beyond irritating! I got one with a long cable so the people in the back seat can connect their devices.
Really? Like this:
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Ground-Loop-Noise-Isolator-Stereo-Systems-Audio-Systems-Included/dp/B01L1NP7YI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505104449&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=ground+loop+isolator
Definitely worth a try! Thanks for the tip.
You need a ground loop isolator likely because when charging the speaker(s) there’s a ac/dc conversion happening. Check this out. It has helped others with same problem. https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Ground-Isolator-Systems-Included/dp/B01L1NP7YI. Some say this ones better https://www.amazon.com/Isolator-Audiophile-Frequency-Without-Distortion/dp/B01N10AQ76/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3RV5RXTNPJ09E&amp;keywords=krypt+ground+loop+isolator&amp;qid=1555458843&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=krypt+g&amp;sr=8-3&amp;utm_source=share&amp;utm_medium=ios_app
You need a ground loop isolator, like this one
The lack of proper social features and the fact that the switch is so liable to electrical noise when docked and using headphones.
To elaborate on the last point. When docked (this is an issue for ME, I don't know whether is a general issue or not) and with the charger plugged into a noisy socket (could potentially be grounding issues for example), and then using headpones through the switch's jackport, i will hear a lot of noise. If I change the socket I use to one that is not a part of my extension cord, I will have a much more quiet experience (the sound will not be entirely gone though, but can be depending on the socket). The problem for me is that I cannot use any other socket with my current setup so I will have to opt in to buy one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L1NP7YI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
They are said to remove all this noise by some other switch users that suffers from this issue too.
Maybe a grounding issue? Every time I've had buzzing issues it was fixed by a Ground Loop Noise Isolator. They sell them on amazon for like 10$
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EDIT: I have this one Ground Loop Noise Isolator
Btw, forgot to mention this, but the dash cam is: AUKEY Dash Cam https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M592J9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BhKLDbX0NBQ26
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Degrees-G-Sensor-Detection-Dual-Port/dp/B01M592J9C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=aukey+dr01&amp;qid=1574745644&amp;sr=8-1
This is the camera that's on my dash
This is the one I bought recently. I'm on my 3rd in about 4 years. So far, no complaints except sometimes in warmer weather, the suction fails and it falls off my windshield. I should probably just take it down every day - but I'm too lazy to put it up and take it down every day.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M592J9C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've been using this one for a few months now. I really like, it's been pretty good. I recorded a crash on it within 2 weeks of having it lol
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M592J9C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Comes with USB power adapter with spare port for phone charger, also comes with two different mounts and mounting clips to run the wire around the top/side of windshield down to the front console for power.
Had it a few weeks or better no issues yet...
When it comes to long wires, I come up broke. But the A119s is both discreet and has fantastic recording capabilities. However, you do pay a bit of a premium.
The Thinkware F50 again, is a premium camera. However you can rest assured that the video quality is going to be solid, the audio will be... acceptable (however this is typical of dash cams, they're all equipped with poor microphones) and it's relatively discreet.
The XiaoYi is a little cheaper still and offers what the other two contenders do, albeit sacrificing a little video quality.
Are these still too expensive? Then you need to look at a cheaper brand, such as Rexing or Vantrue. These products typically offer good protection, but the reliability, quality and customer support is typically not as great as the other three brands.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;source=web&amp;rct=j&amp;url=https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-DashCam-included-IMX291-Novatek/dp/B01MFAK888&amp;ved=2ahUKEwj-p7_Dw9bjAhUUG80KHcRED8QQFjAAegQIBxAC&amp;usg=AOvVaw28AvFj1z-wb6l_4YdiL77f
It's the A119s V2. I'm really liking it so far!
$105 on Amazon right now, I've seen price fluctuate $95-105
I bought one about a month ago. This specifically:
https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-A119S-DashCam-IMX291-Novatek/dp/B01MFAK888
I have one of these in both of my cars and they are great but make sure that you get the second version. The earlier version had problems with the gps mount loosing contact with the camera and caused it to power cycle. https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-A119S-DashCam-Updated-Novatek/dp/B01MFAK888/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501651592&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=viofo+a119s
Cheapest: B1W ($47-55 USD)
Best value:
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link
Hey! I've been using this rearview screen with a Pi for a bit because I had it from another project. It's juuust unsatisfactory enough for me to say you shouldn't go for a teeny tiny screen like this model unless you're only going to use the text console, and you're willing to do some configuring to make it legible.
I suspect that something like the 7-inch screen would have a better resolution and be more tolerable.
Haven't installed it yet, but I picked this up.
BW 3.5 Inch TFT LCD Monitor for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045IIZKU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The one I use is https://www.amazon.com/BW-3-5-Inch-Monitor-Automobile/dp/B0045IIZKU. It says it takes 12v but it works fine with 7.4v. For audio I have an adapter so I can plug my headphones into the av cable audio from the system.
You can actually buy standalone screens that are usually used in cars, which can be extremely tiny while still supporting an RCA (red yellow white) connector.
From what I can tell, this is the model Axe is using.
He's right about the lag too; I used something similar back in high school and it was second to a CRT
BW 3.5 Inch TFT LCD Monitor for Car / Automobile https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045IIZKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AbZBCb47R967R
Is there any way to make this work?
here is a diagram of a night vision goggle setup using This camera and this display. seams like you could get it working fairly easily, if you wanted any thing other than night vision you would have to get a arduino or something.
This is the tutorial the diagram is from.
http://www.amazon.com/3-5-Inch-TFT-Monitor-Automobile/dp/B0045IIZKU This one?
I have used a 3.5 inch "backup camera screen" from amazon. It is low rez but it has a tiny controller board and runs off of 5v and the component video signal from the pi.
Edit: this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0045IIZKU/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511373767&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=backup+screen&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41qtbKk9UvL&amp;ref=plSrch
For safe shut downs, charging warnings, and charging status - Adafruit PowerBoost 1000 Charger - Rechargeable 5V Lipo USB Boost @ 1A - 1000C-Purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BMRBTH2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Shell used-Gametown® Full Housing Shell Cover Case Pack with Screwdriver for Nintendo Gameboy Classic/Original GB DMG-01 Repair Part-White (pick whatever color you want)-Purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1C2L1C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Screen used- BW 3.5 Inch TFT LCD Monitor For Car/Automobile – purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045IIZKU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 (side note here is that in order to make this fit nicer, I installed it upside down in the case.
Speak used - uxcell 16pcs 27mm External Magnetic Speaker Loudspeaker 8 Ohm 0.25W, purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010V4RAAW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 (do not put ANYTHING on the top of the speaker when you install or it will not work.
Prototyping bread board, I purchased from amazon but it is no longer available at the link.
I used this PCB for the buttons on 1 build, the drill guide is VERY useful for this project. - 4 Button PCB For Gameboy DMG-01DIY Pi Zero Made In USA With Grounds and Hole Guide BY:Atomic Market, purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JKJCQVM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
L-R buttons- 100 Pcs 6 x 6mm x 9.5mm PCB Momentary Tactile Tact Push Button Switch 4 Pin DIP, purchased at amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008420WOA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
28 Gauge Wire - Ribbon Cable - 10 Wire (15ft), purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R9SQQM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 (I recommend going to a smaller (higher) gauge than 28. 30 or 32 would have made it a lot easer but 28 will do.
Indicator lights, Uxcell a11092800ux0119 Uxcell (Pack of 75), purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F0TCXSW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 (these are totally optional)
Resistors and capicitors (audio), purchased from https://www.taydaelectronics.com Note: heres the guide I used for the audio too! https://sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=480
Old Gameboy game cartridge. For aesthetics.
Headphone jack, ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Socket-Audio-Jack-5Pin-PCB-Panel-Mount-Connector-PJ325-/400959590673
Volume wheel, ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-B103-16x2mm-10K-Ohm-Double-Dial-Taper-Volume-Wheel-Duplex-PotentiometerBS/293146992835?epid=11009192051&amp;_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amp;hash=item4440ec20c3:g:NZkAAOSw3h1ZUavq&amp;enc=AQAEAAAB0BPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qUCHDbWKwW7sKftQNu9OoIx7SAZoMMNoO7ZC%2BQU2m6tHizIeixg2Hdk8yQin%2B7yNcIdtTzT%2FneqdaLt1WntvDDMDNnZ9%2BCyBsPWRiKLCNPKdeaaZNnBjMoVA%2F0tK%2BtG7DVLtcUKV1a4ZUD8%2F3Lgu9eesPLoBiXZs77Vo7R%2FDaZVMV%2FquPTyLO%2FBFipuEkim1t7BIMiLOi2P3Z31r4yxIdLUw6SCVesvVeqBQuoKov776Dxzk8pUY7PZvu4Q3ULnqBWmlWXsKXc8iAp9juNxUBFHnDgW6A7iElTGYe0sQRXfFHW73jI62f5aO%2FnqGANNK%2F7KJlu474aR3Gae9%2FJCT%2FwoLqmBb4FfizrUJ6qKEuVeLAi31kJSoJXIv4msi3r0bMNSm2D7FL5DUBr0Bc4xsSPi7KFWI9AhmQjUn%2FsLVysgEKd8QEildi1DULaVOX11bv95PGoXvfAusYXSi5NQZk4oZJHr6QIjXu5w4e9Nd2lFtmG4ZB%2BkqROOwwliad72iafj6cbSLphBAjtWGZQVNbmcdKXG6S8h7cTVqt0aD4oej7%2BlDVihmo%2BV0Rc2MhA9FgkM%2BcyzPd0qc9vHvdxjpQUq&amp;checksum=2931469928353c744c25da8843a496116014d4766745
Micro SD card (16 GB minimum)
Female Micro usb Port, (I know I did buy these but I can’t find the link. I bought female micro usb ports to make charging easier.)
I want to say this is the battery that I used, specifically because after taking the shell off it was the perfect fit inside of a gutted Gameboy Game cartridge-https://www.bestbuy.com/site/mycharge-razorplus-4000mah-portable-charger-for-most-usb-enabled-devices-silver/6292246.p?skuId=6292246
3d printed button wells-http://market.sudomod.com/3d-printed-gbz-button-wells/
Extra buttons-https://www.retromodding.com/collections/gameboy
Screw bracket-http://market.sudomod.com/3d-printed-gbz-screw-bracket/
I got A LOT of buttons, glass screen shields, the other three builds button PCBs, some stickers, seriously a lot of stuff from https://store.kitsch-bent.com/ his store is unfortunately closed as he has had life catch up to him and has some shit to attend to. If he comes back online show him some love.
Stuff I got from kitsch
PCB board with LR input points
Buttons for X/Y (you can opt to just get replacement snes or an extra set of Gameboy buttons.
Glass screen that fit the GB shell after removing extra plastic
And obviously you should have a pi zero/w as well a shit ton of patience.
I know this is 3 months old.. BUT..
I used this screen in my nomad last week
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045IIZKU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
comes with adjustments for brightness etc, fits perfectly where the backlight goes. Also seems to keep the settings after turning off
just know, you're hitting the component video, so it's going to have a muddy picture.
I just got a second nomad from goodwill and fixed it, I MAY keep the stock screen in it until someone can get svideo or rgb to work
I don't know about any car stereos as I just use my stock unit but I do use this car kit from Belkin and it works great.
Belkin Bluetooth Car Adapter works great.
When i'm not in my car i use a rocketfish bluetooth headset
[less than 1 minute on amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-BlackBerry-Smartphones/dp/B004CLYJ2I)
Compare to the FiiO E11 alone on many popular sites for $59.99 - The extra battery and charger are almost free if you're looking to get a portable amp for your audiophile headphones. Honestly, these make a difference for the standard headphones too - they just benefit the audiophile builds further. http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES
The Sennheiser HD598 DrAquafresh linked is a great pair of headphones. Super clear, very comfortable, with that nice Sennheiser warm sound. Two problems though: they benefit from an amp, which is difficult for making them truly portable, and they're open, meaning they let a lot of sound in and out.
So, if you can afford a cheap portable amp like this FiiO, and aren't in loud areas, they're definitely the best option for you.
If you need noise isolation, I highly recommend IEMs. They will isolate sound much better than any "noise cancelling" headphones, while actually producing high quality sound. I have to say: avoid Bose if at all possible. There are much better options for the same price. See this buying guide to find a pair of IEMs for you.
If you don't like the idea of IEMs, most closed headphones will be pretty good at noise isolation. That buyers guide has a bunch of options.
The answer to that question is kind of technical so I'll do my best. First off your phone and your laptop both have an internal DAC (Digital Analog Converter) and a basic amp so why do you need another one?..
Using hifi headphones require more "juice" (learn about impedance) than the phone and laptop can provide. There's also a considerable interference that comes from the internal workings of the phone/laptop that's not shielded. The interference effects the sound noticeably. If you're running a lot of processes on your device while listening to music you'll hear a hiss.
A DAC/Amp like the one I listed above gives the juice your hifi headphones want + shields the craziness happening inside the device from effecting your tunes. That one is designed for desktop use and I use it primarily at my desk at work with my laptop. You can also consider a portable DAC/Amp like the Fiio E11 if you plan on using your headphones with your phone and want portability. In hindsight, I would've bought one of these Fiio E12 models which offers the same sound quality as the desktop model but as a portable.
I have a pair brainwavz b2 and I think they sound great. I use a e11 amp with them, but they sound pretty good out of the box as well. Also the cable looks cool
FiiO E11 Portable Headphone Amplifier ($64) and HRT Music Streamer II High Resolution USB D/A Converter ($149). Reviews here, here and here.
You're better off getting it from Amazon. I would never buy from eBay. Seems so unnecessarily sketchy.
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES/
Anything under $40 probably won't be enough for the 250 ohm version, but this one isn't too far above your budget and should be powerful enough
Personally, I don't bother with high-quality music on the go, but Fiio makes some affordable headphone amps that are the same size as a phone like this.
Schiit is an American company that makes excellent headphone amps and DACs but will be primarily for desktop use due to size.
Just so you know, a headphone amplifier is only necessary for phones that have a high impedance (the sum of resistance in the headphone's circuitry). From my own experience, my Sennheiser HD598 with an impedance of around 50 ohms does not require a headphone amp (one does help a little bit but it's not night and day), while the higher level Sennheiser HD650 (300 ohm impedance) definitely requires an amp to sound "good".
I don't really know much about IEM or Closed Headphones (my HD598 is an open-end design) which is what you would probably want for listening on the go.
Well the higher the impedance the harder to drive the headphones, thats the basics of it. In DT990s case the 600ohm is the best sounding one, but not by much. The DT990 250ohm premium is almost as good. The DT990 32ohms is also pretty good. You will only be able to tell the differences when listening to all three of them at the same time. But i think the one you were considering must have been the Pro 250ohm model, which is quite a bit different compared to its premium counterparts. It is more uncomfortable, has a smaller soundstage with muddier bass. It is also the cheapest at 200$. If I were you I'd go with the Premium 250ohm or 32ohm models. They both cost around 300$ new and run around 200$-250$ used(on Amazon via Amazon warehouse). If you get the 32ohm model you CAN skip getting an amp, as it wont be necessary, it will certainly improve the sound but wont be necessary. With the 250ohm premium an amp becomes a necessity. If you're going with a brand new 250Ohm premium then just get that along with a AMP+DAC like the E17 or if you want to go cheaper get the E11(it is the same amp as the E17 but without a DAC). You can skip getting a E9 as it wont give as much benefits and would unnecessarily push you overbudget. This should cost you about 440$ if you buy from Amazon(New DT990 Premium 250ohm + Fiio E17 or E11, with the E11 you'll be in budget but will loose on getting a DAC. Or you can get a used DT990 Premium 250 ohm(check out the 4th listing that lists it as like new, if Amazon says it is like new it means it will impossible to differentiate it from a brand new one) with a E17 to stay within budget
The M50s are fairly easy to drive, but ~$40 is a bit of a low budget for an amp, you could find a portable fiio amp used (like the e11) for about $40. As a matter fact, it is selling for $40 here.
However, I'd honestly recommend saving up some extra cash and keeping an eye out for something like the Schiit Magni used on Amazon or Head-Fi. I've seen them go for around $70 used, it has much more power output than the FiiO and it will be able to handle higher end headphones if you decide to upgrade later.
KCA is Knu's code for copper clad aluminum which is aluminum wire with a thin copper coating. Kolossus Flex is OFC, oxygen free copper, and is good for 150A at 4ga. Pure copper is a MUCH better conductor than aluminum.
Hey there /u/theteg, glad to see you come by.
i would personally recommend a c2 audio threatcon 2 in dual 4 coils amped by a kenwood 9105d with a good 4 gauge wiring kit and a 1.5 cube sealed enclosure
i have personally used each one of these products and have had nothing but a great experience with each one of them
I have a 2012 accord, and the 08-12 have the same body style, so I know what you need and some potential problems you might run into.
You should replace the radio because it'll make a dramatic difference in the sound quality, same with adding an amp. Also, if you want to put quality speakers in, you'll need an amp or you'll risk blowing your speakers.
Problems you'll run into:
In your other post on /r/CarAV, you said you have a couple grand to spend, so I'm going to put a complete SQ system together that you'll be able to keep for a long time and move from car to car.
You probably can find some of this stuff cheaper on amazon, but they're not a registered dealer so you're SOL if something goes bad.
I'd go in to the store, get two quotes, 1) just to install all of this stuff you bought online and 2) what it would cost to buy everything from them with installation and see which is cheaper. The cost for dealers on door speakers and subwoofers is literally half of what they sell for, not head units though, they have very little mark up. Chances are the store might end up being cheaper if you tell them exactly what you're looking at online and how much you're planning to spend on it. Win-Win for you and the dealer, he get's business and you get a better price and similar quality products if they can compete with the online prices. Plus you'd be supporting a local business, unless you were planning on going to best buy, car toys, or something like that (don't do that, go to a local place). And if you buy all this stuff from a dealer and have it installed there, if anything goes wrong you can take it back and have them deal with it.
Speaker Amp $145
Save a little with this Knukonceptz wiring kit $50
Sub amp $150
Puts your total at $620. You may be able to find a cheaper speaker amp, I'm just a fan of Alpine, and I love mine!
I plan on buying this: https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550960855&sr=8-3&keywords=knukonceptz+4+gauge
&#x200B;
Everyone says OFC is the way to go.
here is that same kit on [amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B0058OENJ2/ref=sr_1_2?crid=29PELXXMWJLMP&amp;keywords=knukonceptz+kolossus+8+gauge+ofc+amplifier+installation+kit&amp;qid=1559105133&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=knukonceptz+ofc+8+gauge%2Caps%2C170&amp;sr=8-2), though if you plan on doing more you might just get the 4 gauge instead
You can do a (not perfect, but good enough) circle cut with a pencil, string, and jigsaw
Yes, it'd be fine on your stock electrical. I forgot to mention to get some good OFC power wire
I would get this wire kit instead: http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417578842&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=knuconcepts+4guage
It is Oxygen Free Copper and has a higher current capacity. The wire you chose has a max rating of 100Amps. Your amp has 120Amps worth of fuses on it. So you will want to get a better wire.
The one I posted should be perfect.
You want to get a d2 sub. That means it's dual voicecoil, 2ohms per coil. coils would be wired parallel for a 1 ohm final load. A 4 gauge amp wiring kit will be fine. I would spend the few extra dollars for a nice OFC (oxygen free copper) kit over a kit that uses CCA(copper clad aluminum) Here is a really good choice, has all you need http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1344479367&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=knukonceptz+4+gauge
The amp and subs I’m on board with for this budget but I wouldn’t get that wiring kit. It’s CCA power/ground
Spend a little more and get this
Build your own box but use proper glue not silicon. Titebond 2 is pretty much universally used by enclosure makers. Glued correctly you don’t even need screws - the glue is stronger than the screws, esp in MDF.
Here's another 4ga option that has speaker wire.
Since I'm assuming you're planning on 2 of those subs, switch out the amp for this and switch out the wire for at least this. That amp will put out 1000w at 2ohm (a final load from pairing 2x 2ohm DVC woofers like those) and that wiring kit will be able to handle all the power that amp can pull.
Depending on the features you want, you could go with a simple amp.
http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404996566&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=2.1+amplifier
You could obviously spend a LOT more, but that would get you started. Of course, this depends on the connections the speakers use. That amp uses normal speaker wire for both the speaker and the amp. That would let you plug in anything with a 3.5mm headphone jack using something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404996848&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=RCA+to+3.5
I personally would rather use the RCA inputs in the back, but you could use the 3.5mm aux jack in the from if you wanted.
Depending on your setup, you might also like using a mixer. I have a behringer Xynex802, this lets me mix my laptop, phone, and desktop microphone into my speakers, headphones, and laptop's input.
Best you can do is something like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=lepai&amp;qid=1465334470&amp;ref_=sr_1_5&amp;sr=8-5
It's a short term solution. At some point you are going to have to purchase a real receiver.
http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1409635171&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=2.1+lepai
This is what you're looking for
I would not get that device. You don't need the led and its overpriced for what it is. I have a lapei 2020 that works great but it wouldn't work with the sub.
This version has a sub output and will be all that you need.
Here are some thoughts.
Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6qmgzbWC487DC amp to power the speakers and easy to transport. https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-b652-air-6-1-2-2-way-bookshelf-speaker-with-amt-tweeter-pair--300-651?utm_source=google&amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;utm_campaign=pla affordable speakers that punch above their price. Polk Audio PSW10 10-Inch Powered Subwoofer (Single, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KVQBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5rmgzbW2A60XF and an affordable subwoofer. Run speaker wire to connect speakers to amp. Not sure what your media source is though.
I don't know if this is the cheapest or simplest option, but you could have chromecast audios at the receiver, TV, and PC ($35 x 3 = $105). This would allow you to turn on/off media for the three systems from any device with chromecast support, and you could set up a Plex server if you want to use your own library of content in addition to streaming sources.
Issues:
Can you give the model numbers for the TV, receiver, soundbar, and PC speakers? That would probably be easier than listing their inputs and features individually.
How do you connect the TV to the soundbar? If it doesn't accept multiple inputs, you'll have to go through the TV, which could be a problem.
For the PC speakers, you'll probably need a y-splitter to combine the PC and chromecast inputs so you don't have to switch between them.
The two-zone receiver is trickier, because I don't know how you could control A/B/A+B from your phone or PC. If that level of control is a deal-breaker, then it might be easier to get something like this for the second zone, which requires another chromecast as well ($105 + $35 + $25 = $165).
I've been thinking about doing something similar (3 amp+speaker systems in different rooms), and this is the simplest solution I've been able to find.
Yes, you just need an amp capable. The cheap 2 channel ones arent going to have a sub output usually. That requires a price jump.
But something like this combo will blow the pants off that logitech set
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-B652-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B002RMPHMU
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-1-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B001PNOH2I/ref=pd_sim_23_7?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B001PNOH2I&amp;pd_rd_r=HVF5NKWDYNW6JPNRBSEE&amp;pd_rd_w=u1mFH&amp;pd_rd_wg=GZfhZ&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=HVF5NKWDYNW6JPNRBSEE
this is a cheapy amp with sub out
https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520822446&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Lepai+amp#customerReviews
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0070Z87YO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518544998&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=lepai+168ha&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41HAXZahetL&amp;ref=plSrch
Would this be a better amp for the price?
I heard the subpac was good too, as was the buttkicker. But the subpac is expensive and the buttkicker was sold out lol so I bought the budget tactile feedback rig (Recommended by another /r/oculus member.) which included these three things. It also took a few wires and some tweaking but after mounting it to a chair, I love it
Get a Viseeo Tune2Air... plug it straight into the AMI, job done.
http://www.amazon.com/Bovee-Wireless-Bluetooth-Interface-Integration/dp/B00B52LLJ6
I have the Bovee adapter in our '09 e93.
Works great!
Bovee 1000 Adapter
Have this car and the Bluetooth thing bummed me out. I found a little receiver thing you can plug in to the iPod cable in the glovebox that you can use to play music over Bluetooth. You should already have a phone only version of Bluetooth for you car. (Standard feature IIRC)
Bluetooth thingy.
I have a 2012 a4 with the old iPhone 30 pin connector in the glovebox. If you have the same connection, I got this Bovee 1000 Wireless Bluetooth Music Interface Adapter for in Car iPod Integration https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B52LLJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JvTszbFEW1GT0
It is a little pricey, but works flawlessly and I can still use the MMI to control my music and see the song details and such.
http://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-WMA1000-Tune2air/dp/B00B52LLJ6
These work great, high quality, hence the premium. You use your y-cable with 30 pin connector. As long as it is an iPhone, you keep your steering wheel controls and audio descriptions on the control display.
I always recommend them to customers, everyone loves them. Avoid the other cheap ones available, they just don't work or sound horrible.
Depending on how much work and money you want to put into this, you can get a Dension Gateway http://enfigcarstereo.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/DENSION_GW51MO2.html and this bluetooth adapter http://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-Tune2air-WMA1000-Bluetooth-Integration/dp/B00B52LLJ6
Picked this up for my B8 S4, works like a charm. My iPhone will connect to both the Audi MMI for phone calls AND this bluetooth plugin for music.
http://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-Tune2air-WMA1000-Bluetooth-Integration/dp/B00B52LLJ6
ViseeO Tune2air WMA1000 -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B52LLJ6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I got this for my 2011 A5, never had any problems with it.
I'm working on smth similar right now (link) I doubt that an old lcd will work. Getting the right screen is one of the more frustrating things so far.
I'm gonna get a 3.5 screen meant for parking cameras in a car or smth (Link)
off the top of my head around 120-150 but thats assuming you buy everything online with free shipping and assuming you have access to alot of tools.
Pi Zero https://www.adafruit.com/product/2885 $5.00
LCD https://www.amazon.com/BW-3-5-Inch-Monitor-Automobile/dp/B0045IIZKU/ $15.50
USB Sound Card https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ $6
USB HUB https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Converter-Android-Samsung-Transformer/dp/B00OZDUTMM $6
Volume Potentiometer https://www.amazon.com/16x2mm-Double-Taper-Duplex-Potentiometer/dp/B00O9Y6Z70 $6
Mono 2.5w amp https://www.adafruit.com/products/2130 $3
ABXY PCB http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/common-ground-dmg-button-pcb-a-b-x-y-version $11.75
Power Boost 1000C https://www.adafruit.com/products/2465 $20
Female micro usb https://www.adafruit.com/products/1829 $1
female usb socket https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Female-Degree-Socket-Connector/dp/B00FH85SGG Free or $6
Stereo Jack https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Plastic-Stereo-Socket-Connector/dp/B00GLQAF7A $6
Slide switch https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-SS12F32-G7-Position-Switch-Solder/dp/B007QAJWYW $6
Membrane set http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/silicone-buttons $2.75
Extra button set http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/custom-buttons $2
28mm Speaker https://www.amazon.com/Metal-Inside-Magnet-Player-Speaker/dp/B00O9YG9GM $6.50
two single button pcb http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/easy_buttons $4.30
2300mah Battery http://www.microcenter.com/product/458057/2,300_mAh_Li-Po_Battery_and_Charger $15.00
> I found this https://www.amazon.com/BW-3-5-Inch-Monitor-Automobile
> gets good reviews from pi users
Link is not working for me. I think this is the product he linked to: https://www.amazon.com/BW-3-5-Inch-Monitor-Automobile/dp/B0045IIZKU
I've had a lot of luck using this tiny little backup monitor off of Amazon. BW 3.5 Inch TFT LCD Monitor for Car / Automobile https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045IIZKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lhLNybRFJ6ZEE
It's definitely inexpensive, a little cheap too ;)
I've bought through Ebay, bc robotics, aliexpress, banggood etc...
Most small parts like tactile buttons, power switch, volume wheels, rubber membranes, gameboy shells, and buttons were bought from ebay/aliexpress. Long shipping times but cheap prices.
I also bought the custom button PCBs from eBay. Although I did get one all in one board from Helder at sudomod.com
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232363938160
I bought my power boosts from banggood for a few dollars (works the same as adafruits but much cheaper)
https://m.banggood.com/37V-Liion-Battery-Mini-USB-To-USB-A-Power-Apply-Module-p-928948.html?p=9B1915347037201311DI
I bought 1 screen from Alibaba and two from geatbest. I prefer the gearbest screens. You can also find some 23$ screens on Amazon with prime shipping too. Which apparently will work.
http://m.gearbest.com/development-boards/pp_29447.html
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0045IIZKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nkSqzb14CJP3C
As for the batteries, amplifier, speakers, etc...i bought from BC robotics online store. You can get adafruit parts from them. Still expensive, but shipping isnt bad if you are buying lots. Plus they have a 5$ shipping promo on now. you can also find cheaper batteries on ebay, or like I did in one build i used a 9$ galaxy note 3 battery.
http://www.bc-robotics.com/products/
I've bought my pi zero's from the pi hut. They seem to have them in stock often and cost about 20 CAD after shipping and conversion:
https://thepihut.com/products/raspberry-pi-zero-w?variant=30332705425
(Seems they are sold out now)
That's all I can think of now. Let me know if you have any questions. Also browse through the sudomod.com forums or wiki for tons of info.
wait so this one you linked OP https://www.amazon.com/3-5-Inch-TFT-Monitor-Automobile/dp/B0045IIZKU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=undefined&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=3.5%22+monitor
the red is the power source and then it just has one audio wire ( white and the yellow being video ? )
It's this one from amazon https://www.amazon.com/BW-3-5-Inch-Monitor-Automobile/dp/B0045IIZKU you might have to modify it for it to work with 5volts
I picked up this 3.5"
LCD from Amazon. Unfortunately, I clicked buy before I measured. I think the biggest that will fit is 2.8". I'm currently looking for another option without having to spend double for the 2.8" touch screen Adafruit has to offer (since I don't care if it's touch screen).
I have not yet figured out how I'll do controls. I was going to wait until the blog author posts an official parts list. In the mean time I was going to pair it with my 8bitdo SFC30 controller.
I think a lot of people use this one for handheld gaming projects. It's a little bigger than you said and uses av instead of hdmi.
You're much better off buying an lcd with video input built in, that one is $17 on amazon and would be easy to wire up.
You'd probably end up spending more money trying to go the more DIY route and buying an LCD and LCD controller. I'm pretty sure Arduino has a way to hook up LCD though if you are so inclined.
How would you power a car monitor like this
Been looking at this. Probably would fit in a GBA or GBA SP case.
3.5 Inch TFT LCD Monitor for Car / Automobile https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045IIZKU
You can also pick them up pretty cheap on amazon.com, I got one that was 3.5inches for $15. but they have a larger one for only a bit more.
http://www.amazon.com/3-5-Inch-TFT-Monitor-Automobile/dp/B0045IIZKU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1375819632&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=3.5inch+screen
The components don't have to be that expensive.
With this configuration you're looking at ~$96 per seat, about half of your estimate.
When the Model A comes out the price will come down another $10. I'm sure even cheaper new components could be found and more savings could be had if used components were purchased or received as donations instead. It could be possible to get to the $50 level.
http://www.amazon.com/3-5-Inch-TFT-Monitor-Automobile/dp/B0045IIZKU
You can get larger sizes as well
I just ordered this one today for my own mini cab @ ~$17: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045IIZKU/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i05?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
In addition to what everyone else said, these resources got me up and running:
http://www.sudomod.com/game-boy-zero-screen-alternatives/ - overview
http://www.sudomod.com/wiki/index.php/Screens - specific options and tutorials
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0045IIZKU - the unit I bought for my handheld. Sudomod says that these devices vary, so you’re not ensured to get the same board I did
My screen runs off of gpio without issue, in any event, I just had to mod the screen following sudomod directions to support 5v.
I'm sorry, I couldn't find it at the time. Here it is though.
I used this one. It's cheap and it works but you need to solder it so it can run on 5v. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0045IIZKU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504033324&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=3.5+inch+backup+camera&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41qtbKk9UvL&amp;ref=plSrch
The screens inside aren't all the same so if you check over at www.sudomod.com there is a thread in the forums showing where people have soldered them based on the different guts. Hope this helps!
Looks like this is the screen.
amzn.com/B0045IIZKU
amzn.com/B076M399XX
It's fun as hell do drive, especially in town. I love that it was designed by engineers who were aware that horsepower is not a be all end all. I live in Pittsburgh and can accellerate onto the parkway and up hills as fast as my lead-foot desires, and it's really a joy to throw into a curve.
Before picking the two, I test drove a Fiesta, a Fit, a Soul, and an SX4. I'd have added the Chevy Cruze to the mix, but I wanted a hatchback and wasn't willing to wait for the 2012s to become available. The Fit and Soul were both roomy, but under-powered. The Fiesta had a numb shifter, the SX4 had a too-lightly sprung accelerator, and the Soul's shifter was placed so closely to the seat that I found myself banging my elbow against the seat every time I changed gears.
My only complaints with the Mazda2 are that the gap between 1st and 2nd gear is big, and it is less than desirable for tall people, which is actually not my problem: I'm 5'11, but most of that is leg, and the Mazda2 has great leg room for its size. Also, they managed to put speed-sensitive volume adjustment, 2 trip computers, a fuel economy computer, and an ambient temperature display in it, but no bluetooth. I ended up buying one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Hands-Free-Bluetooth-Versions-Smartphones/dp/B004CLYJ2I
i use this.
Here you go
Belkin.
http://smile.amazon.com/Belkin-Hands-Free-Bluetooth-BlackBerry-Smartphones/dp/B004CLYJ2I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416201209&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=belkin+bluetooth+car+hands-free+kit
works on my 07 camry
Getting bluetooth is easy:
http://www.amazon.ca/Belkin-Hands-Free-Smartphones-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B004CLYJ2I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418916461&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Belkin+Hands-Free+Bluetooth+Car+Kit+for+Apple+iPod%2C+Apple+iPhone%2C+BlackBerry%2Cand+Android+Smartphones%2C+US+Version
Haven't seen any with usb/sd input.
I actually have the receiver from the ajsnoopy's link, and it comes with a wall plug. This one is from the same brand and is made for cars (it plugs into cig power adapter and handles phone audio- unlike ajsnoopy's).
Prior to a time when I replaced my head unit, I used a Belkin device that seems to meet most of the specifications you are seeking. Tracks are controlled by hitting the button a specific number of times (once to start and stop, twice to move forward, I don't remember for going back):
Belkin Hands-Free Bluetooth Car Kit for All Versions of iPhone, iPad, iPad mini, iPod, iPod nano, iPod touch and Android Smartphones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004CLYJ2I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_mfpNwbYG06DME
I've been using this http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-BlackBerry-Smartphones/dp/B004CLYJ2I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1345044135&amp;sr=8-3
It works pretty well but I plan to get a nfc tag for my car mount to automatically turn on bt when it's mounted to streamline the process.
I have this one and it functions perfectly with my android devices. Based upon the description of yours (and the reviews), I'd expect it to also work with android devices. If yours doesn't, return it or work with Belkin support.
My car is weird about bluetooth (it only does phone calls), so I've strongly considered getting that HTC Bluetooth Clip thingy. But, to be honest, I'd probably go with something like this Belkin Bluetooth Car Kit (currently $44.79 on Amazon). It hooks up to your aux input and you transmit your music to it via bluetooth. The only downside is that you wouldn't get track information like you would with connecting directly to your stereo via bluetooth.
On a side note, I do have the Belkin Bluetooth Music Receiver (currently $20.09 on Amazon). It's the same concept but for home use. I have it hooked up to one of the inputs on my receiver, and any of my bluetooth-enabled devices (HTC One, iPhone, MacBook Air) can connect to it. It's super convenient!
I was in your same shoes about a year ago. The market for these devices has evolved considerably since then.
I personally own and use this one from Belkin:
Belkin Hands-Free Bluetooth Car Kit for Apple iPod, Apple iPhone, BlackBerry,and Android Smartphones, US Version
Like I said, I purchased that a year ago tho.
Recently I purchased this one for a friend:
Kinivo BTC450 Bluetooth Hands-Free Car Kit for Cars with Aux Input Jack (3.5 mm) - supports aptX
Its a little nicer in that it has navigation controls on top. The Belkin one requires multiple taps of a button for navigation and I have found it is hit or miss.
Here is one that is a little more discrete but doesn't have the USB port the others do that allow you to charge your phone:
Griffin Technology BlueTrip AUX for iPhone and Smartphones
Hope this helps!
Just an FYI, the 30 pin to lightning adapter from Apple actually contains a Digital to Analog converter chip, as analog audio is not available on the lightning port. That's one reason why it seems overpriced.
What I did was actually get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-BlackBerry-Smartphones/dp/B004CLYJ2I/
The audio goes Bluetooth to the device and the to the aux port of the radio. The main benefit is that for short trips I can play a song or two without even taking the phone out of my pocket.
As others have suggested, if it's a slightly older model it is possible that the built-in bluetooth will only support phone calls and not media. If that is the case, you will need to seek another route.
Just my two cents, if your car has an auxiliary audio in jack (looks like a headphone jack), then you can use a bluetooth adapter to wirelessly stream audio rather than plugging in every time. I use this model in my car and it works beautifully.
I've got a 2008 Prius that I've added bluetooth with out replacing the stock stereo. I bought this Belkin hands free kit purchase link and I was able to attach the button portion to the center of my stereo below the CD slot and then route the cables to AC vent then down underneath the carpet and into the center console where there is a AUX port and a power adapter. I'm not sure if the AUX port is standard in that year range. The setup works really well for me, its as simple as double tapping the button after you start the car. You can also control the music a bit with the button itself. The audio quality is decent but a noise isolator is basically a requirement for using the AUX port in a Prius. It probably took me an hour or so and I only needed a screw driver. Only the part of the dash with the vent had to be removed and a little bit of fiddling with the center console (I put the cables under the carpet).
Do you have it plugged in to a charger? My 08 Chevy 1500 would do what you're describing if I was charging the phone. I fixed it by getting this Bluetooth adapter
Edit: missed you saying it was while charging the first time around. It's not the phones fault, it's due to the way your car is wired.
Same here, 08 Mini with no A2DP support. Buy one of these. Works flawlessly with my android and accomplishes the same thing as having A2DP support.
Buy this if your car has a headphone jack
Yes it would be I have something like this and it's much better
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004CLYJ2I/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1414754417&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SY200_QL40
Her car does not have bluetooth, however I got her this. I didn't realize it had that ability built right in thats awesome! She's not against using voice commands so hopefully I can teach her how to reply handsfree.
So I opted for a new head unit when I wanted Bluetooth for my car, but I have a few friends with this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004CLYJ2I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496194074&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=bluetooth+aux+adapter+belkin&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41jObT4NNiL&amp;ref=plSrch
There might be better options out there though.
i bought this and it works great
http://amzn.com/B004CLYJ2I
Ahhh m30. I'm using the m50s but I had the same problem. I don't mean a big thing like that reciever, I mean a headphone amp with a bass booster function. This is what I use:
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1395606163&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=fiio+headphone+amp
You should definitely look into those two:
Beyerdynamic DT 770 PRO
Audio-Technica ATH-M50
I have the ones from Audio-Technica and am fully satisfied. Back when I wanted to buy some good headphones I originally planned on buying the DT 770 PRO from Beyerdynamics but before I could order them a friend told me that the Audio-Technica ATH-M50 were currently discounted - so I went with them.
You'll most likley need a portable headphone amplifier like this one if you want to use the Beyerdynamic DT 770 PRO with your smartphone.
You would want to use the composite cables that came with ps3.
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40645-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000J1H4VI/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1372095739&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=rca+to+3.5mm
using that you can get the audio to a 3.5mm jack
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E5-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B001P9EQH8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1372095704&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Fiio+amp
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1372095704&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=Fiio+amp
get yourself and amplifier so you can control volume.
plug the RCA->3.5mm into the amplifier input and plug anything you want as the output be it speakers or headphones.
This is what i use to get my HD650s working with my ps3 :D. It works quite nicely
Would the
Beyerdynamic DT 770 PRO, 250 ohms (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006NL5SM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=1M3AMBGK3OIPO&amp;coliid=I3JEXU45VJLNNF) be good to walk to and from classes in college with the FiiO E11 (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0053KWDES/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=1M3AMBGK3OIPO&amp;coliid=IZLOCH1VXRN7N) or is it awkward?
This is what i have. Has an amp to boost the volume, as well as the ability to adjust gain and an equalizer.
Im using Sennheiser 280 pros with this and its able to get very loud without distorting.
Edit:switched to amazon link
I did buy it a long time ago so there is probably a new version.
Actually, I just read a review over on Head-Fi and was shocked to find they say it sounds better than the more expensive e7!!! My man, I think you just picked out my next purchase. Thanks again! :D
Edit: I must admit, for an extra $30 the e11 is looking mighty tempting, too.
Not sure if you're onboard will be able to drive them to their potential.
The FiiO E11 will certainly drive your 50ohm headphones.
If you're looking for something a little more robust looking and desktop oriented, the FiiO E9 will drive most any headphone out there.
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES
is what I would suggest as something cheap-ish and basic, i'm currently running a E17 with MDR 7506's. Even if your phone has the capacity to properly power lower ohms headphones it's worth it to invest in a good amp.
That E11 is only a amp though, the E17 is a DAC and Amp, I use the E17 as my soundcard wherever I go, it's awesome.
Budget - About $200 can go a little higher if there is a real increase in quality.
Source - An amp ( The Amp ) and hten into my phone or computer. I will buy a desktop amp in the future.
Requirements for Isolation - They are for use at home at my computer mostly there is no real isolation requirement.
Preferred Type of Headphone - Full sized.
Preferred tonal balance - I like my sound to sound crisp and defined. I also like good bass that you can feel. I really hate it when songs sound almost muffled. My EQ's usually end up being a parabola shaped (u shaped). I hate it when the good bass sound comes at the cost of the rest of the audio quality. I also hate it when bass just ends up being a constant rumble (like what happens sometimes with the bass guitar) instead of sounding like punches if that makes any sense, but then again that may just be the songs themselves and not the equipment. I also like my guitars to great so when a crunchy guitar riff comes on I'm able to hear it well. Lastly I like vocals too. A well balanced sound with emphasis on the bass if it does not come at the cost of the quality of the other areas is what I'm looking for.
Past headphones - Siberia v2: Admittedly I did not buy these for music, they really suck in that department even with my portable amp they do not get loud enough and they have far too little bass and while they play the music nothing really stands out as good about them.
Sennheiser HD 7 DJ: I bought these last week somewhat an impulse purchase and I am not exactly happy with the sound, while it's better than anything else I own currently (I own Razer Hammerhead Pro's, Sennheise cx-300's and the siberia v2) I still don't think it sounds great. My car has pretty good sounding speakers. When I play a song in my car I can get both defined sounding guitar and great bass but with these headphones some songs guitar and/or vocals (most commonly guitar though) sounds like absolute crap. No matter what I do with the EQ I can't get it to sound right. I have 3 more weeks to return these if I choose to do so.
Preferred Music - I listen to a lot of different stuff, Most commonly metal, rock, rap and pop. I however also listen to trance, electronic, jazz, and folk from time to time. I'll post a few examples below.
Metal
Metal
Rock
Rock
Rap/Hip-Hop
Rap/Hip-Hop
try these
Ok I got one more question for you, to get the most out of them would you recommend buying the amplifier? http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES/ref=pd_luc_bxgy_01_01_t_lh
I don't even use the base because the battery pack gets in the way.
So I can't find the 32hom version anywhere but I did find some deals for the 80 ohm, cheap enough that I could get a portable amp, such as this.
The prices I found were:
usedrefurb
used a few times - - looks like 250ohm, better?
wholesale from China
Any you recommend trusting or not trusting? Any other places you would recommend?
For the headphones, I would recommend the Klipsch X10. Here is a review from Head-Fi. These headphones have a pretty good seal so you get excellent isolation and virtually no leakage.
As for the amp, I'd go with the FiiO E11. Solid build construction, and it packs quite a punch. It only has a 10 hour battery life though, which can get annoying if you listen to music a lot.
These two products combined cost about $182 on amazon, though I'm sure you can find a better deal if you look hard enough.
The FiiO E11 portable amp should be a perfectly acceptable device to drive your DT-770's at 80 ohms. This is because 80 Ohms is not necessarily a high impedance so you don't need to spend tons of money on the actual amp itself.
Here's a link to the actual product: http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES/ref=sr_ob_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1375633942&amp;sr=8-1
I also recently purchased a DT 770 80 Ohm, it should arrive in 2 days, although I picked up an FiiO E07k AMP/DAC combo to go with it, thats about 90 bucks.
Instead of an E6 would the E11 work?
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES/
I've heard anything over 200 ohms will greatly benefit from an amp. Those headphones have even been bundled together with a fiio amp like this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0053KWDES?cache=5a525fc4f6e55beafe1dd0fde8e1e62d&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;qid=1410361843&amp;sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1
I was using a Fiio E11.
So you can see why I was having issues. Lesson learned, though; Don't cop out on an amp when you're buying $400 headphones.
I've heard people use this amp with the re400s and said the bass boost option helps. Can't speak on their behalf but it works for them.
So I’m sort of new to the audio setup thing, but I recently bought the AKG 7xx on Massdrop:
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/akg-k7xx-massdrop-first-edition-headphones
And I also bought the Fiio E11 (that I can return):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0053KWDES/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And I was wondering, should I get a better amplifier? The 7xx came with a large jack that looks like it goes into a guitar amplifier, while the E11 only has 3.5mm jacks ins/outs. I like the 7xx’s form factor and it’s very comfortable so I want to keep it, but I am not attached to the E11 at all and was wondering if I should replace it. Portability doesn't mean much to me, since I will use it mainly as an amp on my desk when I'm using my desktop.
Also, should I get a sound card for my desktop? Or is just plugging into 3.5mm jacks on my tower good enough for the most part? My budget is flexible but I want something that will do my current set of headphones justice.
Edit: Updated with LOC, OFC cabling and enclosure
Total ~$628.9
That's what I came up with. However, you're making a really good point about the factory HU potentially cutting off low frequencies. I understand that I'd have to get into the DSP area if that is the case ($150+ additions), then it gets serious!
edit: And yeah, I know that it's quite a setup for an "initial upgrade", but on the plus side it's mostly plug and play.
edit2: There might be better / cheaper amps that will work but I'm not too familiar with other brands.
https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=4+awg+knukonceptz&amp;qid=1562828478&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1
Plus 2 more RCA cables
For $1200 you can get a decent set of component speakers, 5 channel amp, and a pair of custom made enclosures for subs.
Pioneer 5 channel - 279 shipped
Wire kit - $60 shipped+ $20 extra for a 4-channel set of rca's
Pioneer TS components - $90 shipped
LCI7 line out converter - $114 shipped
We're at roughly $570 shipped without the sub+box+install. Do you want overwhelming bass for the low end, or something subtle to blend in with the mids and highs? A mix of both perhaps? Also, did you REALLY want that vehicle specific box for the extra trunk space? A shop could fabricate a fiberglass form fitting enclosure for typically $350.
To answer your initial question: No, an 8" sub and form fitting box is NOT worth $800 extra. In fact, the $1200 package is a rip off equipment wise since you only get tweeters + dsp/amp + 8" sub/box. What you're paying for is ease of use and pre-processed sound. You may want to go to the dealership and try to listen to a car with this set up anyways.
You won’t be able to see voltage drops normally, the amp may be getting voltage but not enough amps. Check continuity on the amp wire and make sure there’s not added resistance in the wire. Should be damn near nothing.
And I’ve always had good luck with the kicker kits and I’ve hear good things about the knukonceptz kits.
Normally when a client comes in to us and says that they have a amp cutting out and going into protect mode, we swap it with our shop test amp and sub, which is a kicker cxa 600.1 and kicker comp r 12” and we crank the shit out of it and see, if it cuts out with that system then we swap the wires and all is good, if it doesn’t we sell them an amp and sub.
KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Gg.7Cb5PNTECF
Kicker PK4 4 Gauge OFC Power Amplifier Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IFA6C1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fh.7Cb7E4TQZN
Amp: https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-GM-D8601-Class-Amplifier-Remote/dp/B00CFX58YI
Sub: http://www.caraudiobargain.com/b-stock-sundown-audio-ev3-10-subwoofer-500w-e-series/
Wiring kit: https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK
If you want a ported box, build it. Prefab boxes are 98% junk when it comes to meeting the specs of the woofer. Sealed prefab boxes aren't the best, but you don't need to match port size and all that, as long as the cubic footage is there it will be alright. Sealed isn't as loud as ported, though.
If anyone has other suggestions, feel free to tell me my selection was shit. I'm still soaking up knowledge.
Sure. Not the most knowledgable when it comes to wiring, so if I'm wrong hopefully someone will correct me... But I think a 4 gauge OFC kit will do you just fine, and KnuConceptz seems to be the undisputed king of wiring around these parts.
http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK
I’ll be the guy to give you some advise seeing there has been no post in 13 hours, I’m no professional.
$35 copper 6ga amp wire kit Walmart - Locally
$50 KnuKoncepts 4ga OFC amp kit Amazon
Only use OFC (Oxygen Free Copper) Wire
$127 Audio Controls LC6i LineOut Converter Amazon
This let’s you keep your stock radio and add the two amps
$140 Alpine MRV-F300 SonicElectronix
Power your new door speakers for increase loudness and clarity
$80/pair NVX 6.5” Component Kit SonicElectronix
Two sets would cover your doors, they are a high enough rms where the amp will not blow them as long as you have it tuned properly and it’s not turned all the way up! Distortion kills speakers! I would disconnect your rear deck center speaker.
$101 2X Alpine W12S4 12” Single 4ohm Subs SonicElectronix
$90 Ported Subwoofer Box- almost optimal size. SonicElectronix
check your trunk measurements you might have to go with a smaller sealed box*
$150 Alpine MRV-M500 Subwoofer amp SonicElectronix
You will be slightly over budget. Self install or nothing. Many areas to improve in the future. Goodluck
http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1375113174&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=knukonceptz
?
Let us assume that you are truly pushing 1000w. If we divide that by 12V (really 13+ with car running), your wiring will need to support 83amps at most.
Consulting the wiring chart (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-t4zqwB6AVEs/learn/learningcenter/car/cable_gauge_chart.html), depending on distance you will need 6 or 4 ga. wiring.
Given these specs and that I always over engineer, I'd go with this kit
http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1369242499&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=knukonceptz
which is $50 on Amazon.
Car Audio Newb
I bought a used Skar ZVX-8 dual 2 ohm 900 rms sub in a box and its currently wired to 1 ohm. I plan on getting an Audiopipe APCL-1001D as my amp (getting a good deal in it). Specs say it should do 1000 watt rms at 1 ohm, or 600 rms at 2 ohm.
My questions are, should I run it at 1 ohm or rewire the sub for 2 ohms? And as far as an amp wiring kit, would this be a good option, or should I just build my own kit with welding cable? Trying to be as cost efficient as possible.
actually, you don't use a subwoofer. That's for your ears. A buttkicker is for your chair to increase immersion. Take the audio from the game and send it to an amp that powers a device that turns the low frequencies into vibration rather than sound.
Budget version: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZPTBI/ref=pd_cp_0_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=BJXA2YJ27WEMSPYSWB7S
and the amp:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0070Z87YO/ref=pd_cp_0_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=BJXA2YJ27WEMSPYSWB7S
If you have the money, this also works and they have an even better one for a lot more money.
https://www.amazon.com/ButtKicker-Mini-Subwoofer-Home-Theater/dp/B0052AXFKK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469580568&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=buttkicker
Don't forget that this one also needs an amp.
Now getting the audio from the game to the kicker can be a problem depending on your system. If you run into problems, you'll want the audio software called VoiceMeeter. Free(donateware -it's worth it).
I have a simple cheap setup that i use for VR flight and racing sims. It provides a nice rumble, granted it's not as precise as something like simvibe but it gets the job done.
i have the following hardware:
Then i just use voicemeeter banana to sort out the audio. - https://www.vb-audio.com/Voicemeeter/banana.htm
I take the headphone/soundcard audio + VR HMD audio and route it to the voicemeeter virtual VAIO device, and make that the default audio device in windows. Also, I limit the bass frequencies on the output that goes to the amp/shakers using Voicemeeter EQ.
Hey, that's what I've got! It sounds great. Perfect for an apartment. Lepai makes an amp with a 68 watt subwoofer ouput. Get that and a passive subwoofer and you've got a pretty bangin custom 2.1 setup.
http://www.amazon.com/ANV-515-Passived-Sub-Woofer-Speaker-Silver/dp/B005CKN00U/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_7?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0HC0W7NCWY0AQB7RQVDW
Hi, I need help to power my new headphones (ath m50x's). I have the Lepai LP-168HA amp ( https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO ) for my speakers and have that connected to another sub woofer amp. I was wondering if there was a cord that would go from the speaker out that the amp has to an female aux cord. If more details are needed. Ask away, can also provide pictures if need be. Thanks!
No idea what you just asked me to do lmao.
I take the subwoofer audio out that's supposed to go into the computer and plug in splitters instead of a cable?
What do I do with the cable? How do I use that with an amp? :S
EDIT: Using this amp btw, http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO
I was going to use something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523319607&amp;sr=8-21&amp;keywords=two+channel+sub+amp
That should work, right?
What are you going to be connecting them to? A PC? TV?
You definitely need an amplifier/receiver, but what kind of equipment you use will depend on the audio outputs available on the device you'll be connecting them to. These are probably about the cheapest amplifiers that will support two speakers and a subwoofer, and they work well as long as you don't crank the volume up past 70-80%, but you'll need to be able to provide the audio signal through either a 3.5mm TRS (headphone) plug, or red and white RCA plugs. If you want audio from an HDMI source, you'll have to spend more (probably ~$100 minimum) for an AV receiver.
Several options.
You can buy a regular stereo amplifier and a subwoofer plate amplifier. Most sub plate amps have high frequency pass-thoughts so you put it between the stereo and the speakers to extract the lows.
You can buy a 2.1 plate amp. This way you can skip the amp on your desk for a cleaner look. They tend to be much more expensive for the wattage though.
Or if you want to try something more DIY you can try a 2.1 desk amp. Just pick the transformer/ power supply, a box, knobs, power and audio plugs. 1 2
You can also just buy premade 2.1 desk amps but I can't speak for the quality of chinese made amps. 1 2 3
I suggest just buying the Lepai LP-168HA
Honestly I would build a passive sub to go along with those OSs. Also I would go with a cheap amp like https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO
You can always upgrade later...
I'm getting ready to order a set of Micca MB42x and for the sake of future proofing for a sub was planning on using this amp. Most of these subs appear to be powered though, what does the setup look like when using powered and non powered components? Would I set the speakers up as usual then set up the sub separately?
How about this one? Looks like it's 40w x 2.
http://www.amazon.ca/Lepai-2x40W-Amplifier-1x68W-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_12?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417038573&amp;sr=1-12&amp;keywords=amplifier
I'm hoping to spend absolutely as little as possible to get the speakers working.
Wow thanks for the quick reply much appreciated! Yeah Elite is one of the main reasons for getting this. I already have a DK2 and HOTAS so this is kind of the cherry on top for immersion lol. I don't know a whole lot about sound but I am above average with computers and quite handy with tools so I'm sure I will get it all going nicely. Thanks again for your advice I think it has pointed me in the right direction. A couple more questions though;
How important is the crossover? I'm looking at this one here http://www.amazon.ca/Lepai-2x40W-Amplifier-1x68W-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417740400&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Lepai+LP-168HA it's a little more but has a built in crossover, and some extra power, worth it?
My soundcard driver panel has an LFE crossover frequency thing outlined here http://www.manualslib.com/manual/414988/Asus-Xonar-Dsx.html?page=40 maybe this is enough and I don't need to spend the extra money on the other amp? Not that the few extra bucks will make or break it for me. Thoughts?
I have the Xonar DGX soundcard and I only use Headphones if that makes any difference in what to get or how to set it up.
Those are pretty cool, but fairly expensive. For seated experiences, a decent bass shaker and amp can be installed into most chairs for around $100.
This is everything I bought for my setup, and it's great for Driveclub, Eve, and Rigs:
Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p2hvyb1DQKT6T
AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZPTBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z2hvybK1X2MTF
Pyle PSC1250 12-Gauge, 50 feet Spool of High Quality Speaker Zip Wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZX8N44/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G3hvyb889SGZP
Belkin Speaker and Headphone Splitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000067RC4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_b4hvybN63W7CQ
StarTech.com MU15MMS 15 feet Slim 3.5mm Stereo Audio Cable - M/M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004G3WCNK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_z4hvyb7PS049X
T-amp is the way to go, as others have said.
This one seems ideal https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478008165&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=lepai
You connect the two bottom black connectors and the two bottom red ones to create a "68w" mono sub output and it has the crossover control in the front. It's far more powerful than you need but it's small, stealthy, and I don't see how you would beat the price for amp+crossover.
This was what I was running before I purchased a receiver: LP2020A+ Amp and Dayton Audio B652
This is only 2.0, but it sounded great and it was less than $100.
You would most likely need something like this if you plan on getting a passive subwoofer, or this if you plan on running a powered subwoofer.
I highly recommend anyone new to home audio head over to /r/zeos and then /r/hometheater
Cool, so it's nice that you have both types of input. The "line in" jack and the four coax guys can be used independently. Therefore if you liked the small amp form factor you could get something like this, or go scrounge a thrift store for a larger unit.
I was in the market for a new computer speaker setup, and rather than go with a pre-built kit like the ProMedia 2.1 I decided to buy piece by piece.
I picked up a pair of the Micca MB42X's and this amp.
My question is... 1)How's the amp I picked and 2) How will it sound without a subwoofer? I plan on buying one but wanted to wait until I have more funds.
Also if anyone can recommend a decent lower priced sub to go with this I would really appreciate it!
Yes. Oops. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0070Z87YO/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478404297&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX280_SY350_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=2.1+amplifier&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41HAXZahetL&amp;ref=plSrch
What information are you looking for? I run four of these hooked up to this. I'm getting ready to hit the sack but if you can provide me with specific questions I can try my best to answer in the morning!
You need an amplifier. I use an Aura bass shaker with a cheap amplifier. Just match the watt ratings approximately.
Edit: also look at Voicemeeter if you want to duplicate an audio signal to two different outputs.
This setup is amazingly cheap ($80 to $90) and powerful...
http://amzn.com/B0002ZPTBI
http://amzn.com/B0070Z87YO
http://amzn.com/B003TUMDWG
All it takes is one to make a huge difference. Great with headphones on.
A hardwire adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Apple-Lightning-30-Pin-Adapter-MD823AM/dp/B014854UWG
Or Bluetooth: https://www.amazon.com/Bovee-Wireless-Bluetooth-Interface-Integration/dp/B00B52LLJ6/
2010 S5 with the 4.2 V8 and a six speed manual here.
Drivetrain wise, this has been the most reliable car I’ve ever owned. No issues with the engine/transmission. There is a lot of chatter out there online regarding carbon build up since it’s a direct injection engine, but I’ve never had a cleaning done (and I’ve asked my dealer multiple times if they felt I should get it done; bought the car with 28k miles on it in 2014, and it’s at 73k now). I feel like if I hold onto it for much longer I may force the issue with the dealer.
Can’t speak to the oil filter, I’ve always had shops do mine.
The only recurring problem I’ve had is the sunroof drains in the A pillars. Over 4 years of ownership, I’ve had both the driver and passenger side drain go wonky and cause leakage into the cabin. The repairs were sizable, since they had to take apart the sunroof due to it being non retractable (~$700 each time, mostly labor).
Realistically I think I’m averaging somewhere around 18/19 with mixed driving.
The V8 model natively supports Bluetooth calls, but if you want Bluetooth music, you can get one of these adapters and plug it into the MMI jack. Works pretty flawlessly. https://www.amazon.com/Bovee-Wireless-Bluetooth-Interface-Integration/dp/B00B52LLJ6
I got a 30 pin stereo Bluetooth adapter to use on the iPod interface, works like a boss. No issues being paired to this and the car at the same time.
Bovee 1000 Wireless Bluetooth Music Interface Adapter for in Car iPod Integration
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B52LLJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qH8QybM30SGZT
Yea you can skip songs, play/pause, and control volume from steering wheel and dash buttons.
If you already have the media cable then this (or something like it) is what you need
Bovee 1000 Wireless Bluetooth Music Interface Adapter for in Car iPod Integration https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B52LLJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Rer0Bb6WP6BTA
If you don’t have the media cable, something like this will probably be better since the cable is like $150 from the dealership (if I remember correctly)
Bovee Bluetooth Car Kit for AUDI, VW, MB - Music Interface Adaptor for in car iPod Integration (WMA3000A AMI/MDI/MMI connector) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uir0BbQ4F6KBT
Before you buy anything make sure you have the media port. Mine was located in the glove compartment on the left side.
I feel you man. I have the 3.2, I guess the exhaust systems for our cars are the same. Remus makes one, it sounds good, but $1200 for a couple mufflers and some tubing seems ridiculous. AMI is easyish. I did a bit of research, and it yeilded me this site. http://a6retrofit.com/ami-retrofit-audi-music-interface/
There is also this thing, which makes it possible to stream bluetooth to the AMI through A2DP, which is a minimal loss digital format. IE: no need for an iPhone or iPod to use AMI.
http://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-WMA1000-Tune2air/dp/B00B52LLJ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1412749229&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=tune2air
Aesteticly you can get a RS6 grille, I've heard mixed things about the ebay ones, but I think I'm going to give one a shot anyways, they are 1/4 the cost of a legit one, and if it fits horrible, I'll just go back to stock. http://www.ebay.com/itm/111419751154?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&amp;ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
There are VCDS mods too, and other tweaks.
I use this with my AMI cable on my Audi 2009 B8 A4 that might work for you. Spotify works and my phone are both connected at the same time.
ViseeO Tune2air WMA1000 by ViseeO
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B52LLJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_-Totub10HQVTW
This is what you want. You can be paired to the audi's bluetooth for phone audio and contact sharing and paired to this device for media audio at the same time. It won't show the track names for android, but it will appear as a media source, and you will be able to play your music through it and go fwd and backward with tracks. As for charging your phone, just use a regular usb charger in the console, then you don't have to mess with the glove box. I hope this helps.
I used this product Tune2Air (link below) to add bluetooth streaming to my OEM Audi RNS-e head unit. It works great, and sounds way bettter than normal bluetooth streaming. Hope this helps
http://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-Tune2air-WMA1000-Bluetooth-Integration/dp/B00B52LLJ6
Yeah, I hear you. I'm considering this.
Can you share which one you went with?
Right, the Nav is $650 USD all by itself.
ViseeO Tune2air
This is what you are looking for. There are probably other devices out there that are similar to this one.
>Get one of these. I use it in my 2011 S4 all the time.
>
>https://www.amazon.com/Bovee-Wireless-Bluetooth-Interface-Integration/dp/B00B52LLJ6
Hey so I am finally looking at this since my SiriusXM is expired now. Does it support android stuff because I despise apple and it just says iPhones and iPods.
I actually had this one originally:
https://www.amazon.com/Bovee-Wireless-Bluetooth-Interface-Integration/dp/B00B52LLJ6
and that was great because it hooked straight into the iphone connector in my Audi but since the BMW is looking for a usb and aux cord I had to buy a cord to adapt it (https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Audio-30pin-Cable-Iphone/dp/B00490OVM0).
I would go with the wma3000b as it's all ready to go without the adapters.
This works incredibly well. Sound quality is absolutely perfect. Sounds like it is coming from a wired connection not bluetooth to aux.
I don't know if anyone mentioned this yet, but I just got a tune2air with the BMW y cable for my 2011 335 and it works great!!
http://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-Tune2air-WMA1000-Bluetooth-Integration/dp/B00B52LLJ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420515676&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=tune2air
http://www.amazon.com/Goliton%C2%AE-ADAPTER-MASERATI-61120440796-61120440812/dp/B003P6DGMK/ref=pd_sim_cps_4?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0AAQZPAYGNBX4710FESZ
If your car came with the 30-pin iPod connection, you can just buy this adapter and be able to listen to music from your phone via Bluetooth. I have it in my E90 and it works great.
http://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-Tune2air-WMA1000-Bluetooth-Integration/dp/B00B52LLJ6
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B52LLJ6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This works pretty well. Used it in my A4 for 3 years with very few issues.
Look up tune2air I use it and I love it! Its made specifically for the audi mmi
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B52LLJ6?pc_redir=1395693363&amp;robot_redir=1
Just got one a month or so ago - a Viofo a119s. Nothing noteworthy has happened yet, but the quality is good from what I've reviewed. The shock sensor definitely works...it accidentally triggered when my wife was driving and got to the end of a repaving project.
Alright, thanks again.
Can you see what the difference in this $120 A119S and this $100 A119S is? They seem nearly identical to me. They both have GPS, and they're even sold by the same company. The only difference I can see is that the cheaper one has "compact" in the title and looks curved near the camera.
A few more (hopefully final) questions: should I go for the CPL? Is this a good hardwire kit?
I got this one https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-DashCam-included-IMX291-Novatek/dp/B01MFAK888
Easy to install. Takes fine video. Sample video
I have had this bluetooth transmitter plugged into my saddlebag 30-pin for two years on my XC, and it works perfectly with my previous iPhone 6 and now my iPhone 7+
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B52LLJ6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I am picking up my first Audi (2008 S5) tomorrow and would also like to know if Tune2Air is working with iOS 8.2.
Some are saying it works, others not...
I use the Falcon F360. Dual 1080P Cameras, decent night vision, easy to setup and use, and supports up to a 64GB memory card. Mounts on the mirror, and has a long power cable so it can be hidden.
I've had them in both my vehicles for 2 summers now and they are still going strong.
https://www.amazon.com/Falcon-Zero-F360-HD-Mirror/dp/B00E56WY18
> Falcon Zero F360 HD
https://smile.amazon.com/Falcon-Zero-F360-HD-Mirror/dp/B00E56WY18
Does anyone have any experience with the Vantrue N2?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WQ7K6C?psc=1
I'm looking at getting rid of my current dash cam the Falcon Zero 360 because it is a giant piece of shit. Whatever you do, stay away from this model or the other copycat crappy Chinese models, from what i found this is sold under a bunch of different names with the same hardware.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E56WY18/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have this one, Two swivel cams, one can see in the cab, the other the front of the vehicle. Super easy to install. Highly recommend. Be warned though that the instructions are very difficult to understand (unless you read Chinese or Russian).
http://www.amazon.com/Incredisonic-F-360-Accident-Recorder-Dual-Camera/dp/B00E56WY18/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418605891&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=dash+cam
http://www.amazon.com/Falcon-Zero-F360-HD-Mirror/dp/B00E56WY18/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450243941&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=rear+view+dash+cam
It is a little pricier than when I bought it, but there are similar models by different brands out there.
This is what I have my eye on.
So recordings from something like this can be converted to a 360° video?
Amazon. I got one that slips over my rear view mirror and shows inside the cab (I have it pointed at the center and half of the passenger seat, as well as the front of my car.
I love it! Had to get a different memory card, the one it came with didn’t work. Bought in August 2016, still works. I drive Uber sometimes and I don’t want to take chances.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E56WY18/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Yeah I need to test it out and also take it out of the car when I am not using it since its been horribly hot here.
I do IT for a living so I know my toys. We will see when I get it how well it works.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E56WY18/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
About 150 on Amazon. Dual cam. Rotatable. Poor definition. So, so night vision. Does what is purported to be. Clips over mirror. Most dont notice it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E56WY18/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495499510&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=Falcon+Zero&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41HcYxHvzcL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E56WY18/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have this one.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E56WY18/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Except it is of a previous Gen. The rearview doesnt work as well as you would think for my car during the daytime. Too much sun wont allow for viewing outside of the car.
I got this on sale for $100.
It's ok, but I know there are some much, much better ones out there. The cameras aren't very high quality and the rear facing camera is pretty much useless for seeing things outside of the car
I actually just bought one off amazon for like $120.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E56WY18/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I just got it a few days ago but haven't tried it out yet
Here is the mobile version of your link
http://www.amazon.com/Blueskysea-Detection-Recorder-G-sensor-Technology/dp/B00HMNFWYW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406424534&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=g1wh+dash+cam
> How else are we supposed to gawk at peoples lunacy?
Try one of these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HMNFWYW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=1BTTEHB7EH16Q&amp;coliid=I2TBWQFDMCC6NK
This one correct?
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-H-Hidden-Dashboard/dp/B00HMNFWYW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468100490&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=g1w-h
I have 2 of these and none experiencing the focus problem. Everything is clear as day. Might need to contact them for warranty or exchange it from your vendor.
I know the differences, but what's the major benefit? Just that a capacitor holds a charge more efficiently than a battery over time?
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-H-Hidden-Dashboard/dp/B00HMNFWYW/ref=pd_cp_e_1
I'm not overly familiar with tech stuff like this, but that seems like a steal for inertial recording and night vision.
I've only had mine for a few weeks, but I love it so far. I purchased mine as an upgrade from a [G1W] (www.amazon.com/dp/B00HMNFWYW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3CWQyb06CKB1G) I had before. I'm not too knowledgeable on specs and whatnot, But I wanted something reliable that wouldn't break the bank. The reviews were good, the price was right and it serves my purpose perfectly. I hardwired mine and it sits up and out of the way but within arms reach if I need to snap a picture for any reason. [Here] (http://imgur.com/q2iV9n2) it is if you're interested. I can also upload couple of clips when I get home if you'd like. Cheers!!
if you have this mount, it works just fine for civics:
http://www.amazon.com/SeresRoad-G1WH-Dashboard-Detection-Loop-cycle/dp/B00MGJCEQQ
its the ones in this picture that does not point far enough down:
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-H-Hidden-Dashboard/dp/B00HMNFWYW
if you look at the different pictures, they have two different mounts featured. one has the ball mount on the swivel connector, one has the ball on the arm connected to the cup (the one that does not work). the one that did not work is in this video of mine:
https://youtu.be/QhNcedEM5Tg?t=1m56s
you can see in that video, the ball is on the main arm, not the part that swivels. the "nut" and fat connector does not go far back enough on the end of the ball.
G1W-H. (Harder to spot from outside the car).
Do you happen to know if the 2 a linked to are the real ones?
For example, Spy Tec: http://www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-G1WH-Dashboard-140%C2%B0/dp/B00KZ0J452
And Black Box: http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-H-Hidden-Dashboard/dp/B00HMNFWYW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452932558&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=G1WH
I have this one. Apparently it's the same ones that the russians use in all their cars. It got good reviews. It's the upgraded version of this reviewed one and it's matt-black so it's easily hidden. Great deal for $70.
The G1WH is pretty popular also.
This one has lasted me 2 years. Get a 32gb memory stick and you should get 5+hours of 1080p video.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HMNFWYW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HMNFWYW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It was cheaper, but it's gone up in price. Night time quality is great, looks just like what you'd see out the window pretty much.
I went with this [one] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HMNFWYW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1), it has served me well for two years. It comes recommended on dashcamtalk.com.
I use one of these and it works perfectly. Example videos can be found on my dashcam YouTube channel (not the cycling ones though!).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HMNFWYW/
This is the one I have- it's $60- but well worth it.
Do you mean this? https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW
or this one?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M4VJNR4/ref=psdc_10980761_t1_B00KVVX2QW
also https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472741816&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=monoprice+headphone+amplifier
Hello, all. I'm planning on stepping my audio set up by a notch. Currently I have a pair of Pioneer SP-BS22-LR bookshelf speakers (https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-BS22-LR-Designed-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B008NCD2LG) with a subwoofer from a cheap Insignia 2.1 combo powered by the Lepai LP-2020A+ Amp(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049P6OTI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1). And the headphones I have is the Sennheiser RS 170 Wireless Headphones.
Components I want to upgrade: Headphones, sub woofer, a DAC and an amp to drive the new headphones.
I see the Massdrop HD6XX for $200 and am interested, then I also see the DT990 Pro 250 ohm for $125 from Newegg and now I'm hesitating which one I should get. As for the Dac/amp it could be a combo or separate devices, but I'm wondering if therw's a way for me to connect both headphone amp and my speaker amp to the same DAC output(Could the Monoprice 111567 Desktop Headphone Amplifier be the solution to this? https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW). Finally I want to get a decent sub woofer to go with the bookshelf speakers.
Ah yea sorry I didn't notice that you only wanted closed lol. Well the best DAC/Amp (that is also cheap) I can think of is the Monoprice one.
> https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469992339&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=monoprice+dac+amp
The reason this thing is better than most cheap dac amps is because it's not USB powered. So it might not be the best solution for a semi-portable set up, but I think it's good if you really need a DAC/Amp.
Grab the Monoprice amp from Newegg. $100ish. Great sound for price, mine died fast, but I'm in the minority there.
Grab a Modmic. $60ish. Absolutely fantastic.
And, the headphones themselves..... HD 599s. Decent price, good sound, absolutely atrocious looks. And a removeable cable.
You can upgrade all of this (except the modmic, that's basically perfect) for even better, but there's a good start.
I'm currently working on sourcing and testing all the "external sound cards" I can get my hands on (i.e., DAC/AMP with mic pass-through) but I don't have full data there yet.
Like this guy?
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW
I'm wondering if I need something in between as far as features go, as I'm realizing that I'd really like to be able to run a basic microphone input through the device as well. Just a 1/8" or 1/4" type connection, nothing fancy like the XLR connections. Wouldn't ever be used for anything more than online voice communications.
Okay, found some mix-and match pieces that will do the same thing for less:
This headphone amp has multiple inputs and pre outputs for your speakers:
https://smile.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW/
https://smile.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/
You'll need cables: a toslink cable from the TV to the D03, an RCA-3.5mm cable from the D03 to the 111567. A USB A to USB B (large) (also known as a USB printer or device cable) from your PC to the 111567. Maybe a 3.5mm adapter for your headphones. Whatever cables your speakers use to connect to RCA jacks.
I've found two other options over the stack you're using and the Audioengine D1 I mentioned:
Sometime last year, I bought a used monoprice amp and an used smsl a50, I recently noticed when my speakers are at low volume it creates a quiet static sound. What causes this and how can I fix it?
Speaking strictly functionality, that is what I want... but it's hideous. Lol. Thank you for the recommendation.
I think I'm leaning towards something along these lines but I still have to plug and unplug the headphones. At least it would be on top of the desk.
Currently I have this amp and I'm getting interference through the AUX cables and not the usb side. Is there a different amp that has multiple USB channels?
So this amp is what you're recommending? Will it be good for gaming and such? Thank you!
Like people have said vinyl is a for those who love to tinker, and to hunt for that new record or upgraded component. If you just want to be able to listen to great sounding music and not worry about the stuff in the middle, download some FLAC files, buy a nice USB DA converter and enjoy, there is noting wrong with digital audio. If you still want to see what its all about, surf the craigslist list, get a turn table. then get a $30 pre-amp from Amazon, and a small headphone amp. the one i linked to actually has a built in USB DA converter so you can get your good sound card too. That will be the cheapest way to get in to vinyl, for just over $200 if you end up having to pay a high price for the turntable on craigslist list. those components i linked to with a decent vintage turntable and your nice headphones will sound great.
Pre-amp: http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-PP400-BEHRINGER-MICROPHONO/dp/B000H2BC4E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422075043&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=phono+preamp
headphone amp: http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW/ref=sr_1_23?s=audio-video-accessories&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422075678&amp;sr=1-23&amp;keywords=headphone+amplifier
Hmm, I'm not sure I'm really recommending it as much as letting you know that it exists. :) There are a few reviews of it on the net, including a rambling one from ZReview. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TUFQgodxyNk
Here it is at Amazon.
Nice! was looking for either the monoprice one a friend told me it was great for the price, or the O2 from massdrop.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW
Thanks for the response! What are your thoughts on the HD650 compared to HIFIMAN HE-400I - currently at $250.
Also, I'm not very familiar with amps, so would an extra $100 investment be worth it, or would the ones you recommended (I think these) be just fine?
How cheap and what is the impedance of your headphones? If $100 is reasonable then I recommend these two units.
$100 - Micca OriGen
$105 - Monoprice Desktop Headphone Amplifier.
E10K is what I'd recommend, because it should have the power to drive any headphones you get, since some models have a 600-ohm impedance which need a load of power to use. The E10K can drive any future headphones you get just fine. The alternative to that is the Monoprice version which has even more power but can cost a little more.
The E12 is designed for portable use so I can;t guarantee it'll every headphone you get.
Hmmmm, looking at the Fiio E10K on Amazon after I made my last post and saw that instead of the normal $74.99 it sells for, it's now listing at $99. (I am hoping this is a temporary price jump).
The Monoproce Dac/Amp combo is $79.00 and gets some good love. It Might be worth a look.
Okay so I think that instead of the SD 793ii (ill return it) I'm getting the monoprice DAC and headphone amp, It seems like it would solve all of my problems, but I just cant seem to find the smsl-50 in a black finish anywhere....anyone have suggestions for something other then the SMSL at around the same price point in black finish? Or I could just get a cheap stand alone DAC for the signal coming out of my computer and buy This headphone amp. I will be listening to both my Turn table and Mac Pro Tower through the system.
Edit: words and stuff
Instead of getting a sound card just get a DAC.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KVVX2QW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Much much much better sound and analog volume controls.
not sure I got this one and I like it https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KVVX2QW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Would it be a good idea to pick up something along the lines of the Monoprice Desktop Headphone Amplifier for the HE400i?
Akitio Thunder2 PCIE Box
https://www.amazon.com/Akitio-AMZ-T2PC-TIA-AKTU-Thunder2-PCIe/dp/B00LTAUTHE
Akitio Thunder3 PCIE Box
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&amp;sku=1273177&amp;gclid=Cj0KEQjw6am-BRCTk4WZhLfd4-oBEiQA3ydA3kayYapBVG5W5mbmU6gTnC8xE4MhSEuK5LOtBiBL0pkaAh7Y8P8HAQ&amp;is=REG&amp;ap=y&amp;c3api=1876%2C92051678162%2C&amp;A=details&amp;Q=
http://www.amazon.com/Akitio-AMZ-T2PC-TIA-AKTU-Thunder2-PCIe/dp/B00LTAUTHE/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462741869&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr0&amp;keywords=atikio+thunder2
https://www.techinferno.com/index.php?/forums/forum/113-implementation-guides-apple/
Oh, okay.
I saw this https://www.amazon.com/Akitio-Thunder2-PCIe-Box-intended/dp/B00LTAUTHE/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Akitio+thunder2&qid=1563918555&s=gateway&sr=8-2 and all over youtube, it says you can use it. It shows in the title "Not intended for the use of graphics card) so what exactly does that mean?
And also when I asked Apple Support they said that the T3 to T2 is like if you have a T3 (on your mac) and you have something that's T2, you can do T3 -> T2. They said that if a device is T3 and you have T2, it won't work that way (afaik).
Hi Escape_Pilssken!
Recently I have been looking into building a eGPU for my dell m3800 precision laptop. I Reddit searched the Akitio Thunderbolt 2 external PCIe port and your build post came up. I use my laptop for CAD and can run games at medium settings (GTAV, 720p, 45FPS) however I have trouble running any game more intense than GTA. My computer has a thunderbolt 2, so thats a start and i have been looking into other parts. Now I see you use it for mac but have read it does work with windows. As of now this is my shopping list..... Akitio,
http://www.amazon.com/Akitio-AMZ-T2PC-TIA-AKTU-Thunder2-PCIe/dp/B00LTAUTHE/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458307550&amp;sr=8-1-spell&amp;keywords=akiitio
Power supply,
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Continuous-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_3?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1GNV44JSQF1C20V1ACSH
PCIe risser,
http://www.amazon.com/PCIE-Powered-Flexible-Extender-Bitcoin/dp/B00GUKRX6S/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1GNV44JSQF1C20V1ACSH
and most importantly, GTX 960
http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Overclocked-GDDR5-Graphics-GV-N960IXOC-4GD/dp/B0167OW8M0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458308437&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=gigabyte+itx+960
Is this all I need? am I overlooking anything? I assume the akitio comes with a thunderbolt 2 to thunderbolt 2. I am not the most tech savy when it comes to hardware so i just want to make sure im not missing anything. Also from what you can see will this card fit or will i have to leave it outside the box?
Thats all I can think of now, so thanks for our help!
Blankdeck31
What do you actually want to play? I have a retarded laptop with SLI 980Ms and the power is still somewhat lacking.
You may be better off with something like this, depending on what your playstyle is.
I remember looking at those awhile ago - looks like there are even cheaper ones now.
check out this forum
the market for egpu is finally reacting to the demand for cost effective egpus. after some research i am considering the Akitio Thunder2 PCIe Box priced at $211. ill need to read more but it is possible to upgrade the riser to support full length cards, the psu, and a case for around $90.
So for around $300 you have a system that will support graphics cards for years to come. I think people want a system around the $200 range but I have an apple cinema display monitor and would rather buy a windows copy for bootcamp rather than a shitty dvi to tb converter(~$100) if I built a pc.
otherwise called an eGPU.
If you have the correct ports on your lappy it is a stand alone box with power supply that you put a regular GPU in then connect to your pc for an upgrade.
there are many models, I just grabbed a random link for sample:
https://www.amazon.com/Akitio-AK-T2PC-TIA-AKTU-Thunder2-PCIe-Box/dp/B00LTAUTHE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1432996428&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=akitio+box
Personally as someone who is going to be facing this same problem within the next 12months/year I am moving back to a gaming pc and cheapo lappy's. I don't regret the choice of a gaming laptop at the time I got it as it really did fit the situation, but i also went into it fully expecting it's life span to be shorter then the average comparable desktop.
I think the better option is a desktop since this problem can be avoided easier for less cost when it is time for an upgrade. think of it this way, _ ok you solved your immediate problem but it could cost north of $500 to do it if you want a powerful card, THEN a little more time goes by and something else needs an upgrade, be it ram or CPU or even windows, NOW your stuck, as nothing else but the OS can be replaced really. so now you not only have an old laptop you have an egpu and case sitting around doing nothing or you end up taking the card out to put in a better desktop.
I see very limited reasons where an Egpu is a better choice.
You can drop a 10gbe PCIe card into a Thunderbolt enclosure. Still quite expensive, but could do i.e.:
https://www.amazon.com/Akitio-Thunder2-PCIe-Box-intended/dp/B00LTAUTHE
+
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solarflare-SFN5122F-Dual-Port-10GbE-PCI-E-Server-Card-/201262999161
There are also Smalltree cards that use the Intel X540 chip, and the hackintosh community has made their drivers work with cheap vanilla Intel X540 cards.
https://www.amazon.com/Akitio-AMZ-T2PC-TIA-AKTU-Thunder2-PCIe/dp/B00LTAUTHE/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481327927&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=gaming+dock
Let me pop this here then, go down to the reviews and you can see that verified purchasers have said that it works fine with gtx 980ti, which means it will work fine with any of the new pascal lineup. Also, to add to that, it uses thunderbolt, and is compatible with ANY device that uses thunderbolt. Still just barely over $200, clocking in at $219. I actually have some personal experience with this enclosure, and its completely fantastic as far as performance goes, and its very easy to install, and it also has additional fans to air out the card even better than it would be cooled in a small-mid sized case. Also, it says its a 35w power limit, but its compatible with power supplies, and so it can be easily setup to handle more power.
This one is $219
You can probably find more information online, but...
Parts used:
Once everything's put together, connects to your laptop via Thunderbolt cable. If you've built a desktop computer before, you'll easily be able to figure out how to put this together. If you haven't, I don't recommend attempting this.
Ok, so from the HD 5000 you'd get about a 50% bump in performance. Ok but I think you could do better. The GT 740 is a low-end graphics card, which often means you're getting less value than a midrange card, which are a little bit more money but a lot faster.
Is your goal "as cheap as possible" or do you have a budget?
It seems based on your parts list that you were willing to spend at least $65 on a GT 740, $50 for the cheapest Corsair 450W PSU depending on which model you meant, $170 on the thunderbolt adapter, and $70 on the other part. Minimum Total: $355. So I'll go with that.
Get that Thunderbolt->PCIe adapter for $217.
Get a powered PCIe riser, that's $7
Get a power supply, this EVGA 500W is $40 without rebate.
That's $264, leaving $91 for a card. Let's say you can spend $90-100. My top pick would be the R7 265 for $100, but I'd go with either the R7 360 or GTX 750Ti. These cards are more like 300-400% faster for only a little more money.
EDIT: Here is a guide from someone else doing it, they recommend EVGA brand Nvidia cards, which would be a little more money. Here are some good ones. With either of these you could get away with this $27 power supply instead: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-power-supply-100n10400l1
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-video-card-02gp43753kr
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-video-card-02gp42957kr
So any laptop with a thunderbolt 3 port will work with a dock? Do you know some good docks that are on the market today, which isn't DIY or some hacky / cheap stuff?
I can't seem to find much, except this one: https://www.amazon.com/Akitio-AMZ-T2PC-TIA-AKTU-Thunder2-PCIe/dp/B00LTAUTHE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 which is a brand I've never heard of, has reports of cards not fitting and stopping working after a week.
Sounds like the Bizon is a modified version of this:
https://www.amazon.com/Akitio-AMZ-T2PC-TIA-AKTU-Thunder2-PCIe/dp/B00LTAUTHE
Which you can add your own power supply to and use whatever card you want.
I have a 5K iMac, i7 4GHz and I'm looking at these right now.
\^this! Go and get you a Macbook 15" or an iMac 21.5" or 27". They aren't so expensive anymore. I got an iMac 2011 21.5" for only 200 CHF (200€).
The CPU`s were way better than this one in your MacBook Pro 2010.
But only buy one with an i7 Quad Core, they have enough Power.
For the GPU you can buy somethings better for your iMac/MacbookPro or Mac mini. You can buy a Thunderbolt 1/2 GPU Adapter, they weren`d so expensive anymore. Take a look here click me . They work with Thunderbolt 1, too.
I would chose the iMac.
Akitio Thunder2 PCIe Box
EVGA GeForce GTX 750Ti
This PSU
This Script only required for macOS, Windows should be fine if installed in EFI
How about this? The top review says it can work with a eGPU
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B00LTAUTHE/ref=mw_dp_cr
SECTION | CONTENT
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Title | SUPERCHARGE your New MacBook Pro !!!
Description | External GPUs to upgrade your 2016 MacBook Pro. Do they work for Gaming? Adobe Premiere? TB2 Enclosure - http://amzn.to/2ihik8F (modified) TB3 Enclosure - http://amzn.to/2izdRvK Laptop skins from https://www.dbrand.com INSTRUCTIONAL GUIDE MacOS MBP 13/MBP 15 using TB3 1 - Connect TB3 eGPU to MacBook Pro 2 - Run TB3 enabler script - https://github.com/KhaosT/tb3-enabler 3 - Install automated GPU driver kit - https://github.com/goalque/automate-eGPU 4 - Download Mac Nvidia CUDA drivers if nee...
Length | 0:05:32
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After finding out which fuse is an accessory 12v one, that's really all you need. One of these will allow you to draw power without having to do anything messy or splice wires. The + (red) wire for one of these gets connected to the add-a-fuse and the - (black) gets grounded to something metal on the vehicle. You can tuck the wire behind the a-pillar cover and up through the headliner, then drape it behind the rearview camera out of sight.
In addition to /r/dashcam you can check out dashcamtalk.com. It sounds like you want an out-of-the-way install, like an A118C next to or behind your rear view mirror. Add to that a hardwire kit with low voltage cut-off to prevent draining the battery if you park for a few days. The power cable will tuck behind the headliner and pillar and go to the fuse box. You'd need to know how to install that or have someone do it for you.
Step 1: Buy a hardwire kit for a dashcam. Here's one I found via a simple amazon search, but you can choose anything that works.
Step 2: Watch this video, or just search dashcam hardwire install on youtube.
Step 3: Carry out the the task at hand.
Hardwire kits are readily available and are pretty cheap. You just need to figure out what type of fuses your F150 uses and get a Tap-A-Fuse kit with the same style fuse. The link below is a typical generic hardwire kit.
https://amazon.com/Dash-Camera-Vehicle-Hard-Wire/dp/B00MH4ZVHO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474136883&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hard+wire+kit
This is the converter. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00MH4ZVHO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_O7kKM4d3Am7He
The blackvue is popular and sounds nice, but I didn't feel the need for the wifi or cloud features. So I went with a pair of Rexing V1 cameras, front and rear. For power I made a y-cable and attached it to the extra 12V connector in the headliner compartment. Then I ran power cables through the headliner. The front cable is pretty much out of view. The cable for the rear camera runs exposed for several inches from the rear pillar to the back window — not ideal, but it doesn't bother me.
A year later, I'm happy with the Rexing. Video quality seems fine. I haven't had to use it for anything serious yet, but it helped me identify an object that whacked into me on the freeway.
Here are some of the parts I used. If you do your own installation, pick up some micro2 fuses. It's easy to blow one while working on the power supply. You'll also need a multimeter so you can identify the correct wires for 12V power.
https://www.amazon.com/V1-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MH4ZVHO
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058DN7B8
Spy Tec Dash Camera Vehicle Hard Wire Kit
Right, I understand all that. But do I need to get a fuse for the second slot (the dash cam slot) in the fuse tap since the hardwire kit that connects to the fuse tap already comes with an inline fuse?
The hardwire kit already has a fuse on the positive cable.
https://www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-Dash-Camera-Vehicle/dp/B00MH4ZVHO
12v-5v converter with in line fuse. I wired mine up to my powered mirror up in the headliner.
You can get a dash cam hardwire kit on Amazon for around $10 that have a 12v to 5v converter built in here's one. They're not very hard to install
This one.
I was able to return it too. I don't wanna say they suck because it's "frequently bought together" with the A119. Maybe the unit I received was just defective
Presumably so, yes. I'm getting this hard wiring kit... http://amzn.to/2956YhD, which is similar (exact?) to the one u/beth6han recommended.
Ha... I also wired it up with Spy Tec Mini USB Dash Cam 10 Foot Hardwire Kit for A119 A119S G1W G1WS, so no annoying cigarette lighter plugs.
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-CB-Capacitor-Camera/dp/B00P8F3LD0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483832531&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=g1w
I own the regular G1W, but this is the one to get, worth every penny. Get one.
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-CB-Capacitor-Camera/dp/B00P8F3LD0/
G1W works great
Get this
If you want to hardwire
Get a micro SD memory card (up to 32GB).
That's a total of about 90 bucks. If you can install yourself your done. I've had this for 2 years. Never had to officially use it. Recorded some crazy and funny things though.
This is great for peace of mind. If this dude never had a dashcam, he would have been fucked for all those tickets especially the one where he is following to closely.....to a cop car! With this video, he will probably have to pay for no license plate, and just remove the tints.
Consider picking up on of these inexpensive dash cameras. I'm happy with mine. It loops and records over the oldest file, starts when the car starts, stops the same way. Set it and forget it, but have video when you need it. Great extra bit of insurance.
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-CB-Capacitor-Dashboard/dp/B00P8F3LD0
I have had the GW1-C in 3 of my vehicles for the past 2 years. Also installed 1 in my father's truck about a year ago. All of them are still going strong no issues. SD cards are still working fine also.
*
Just a G1W. Amazon. Even though the raw video quality isn't -that- great, it's a fairly handy cheap little thing. Before getting it I looked up reviews for basic ones and this was pretty much the de facto entry level cam.
This is the camera i use facing forward:
A118C Car Camera, CiBest Dash Cam B40C Stealth Capacitor Edition 1080P HD Video Car Dashboard Camera Motion Sensor G-sensor WDR Night Vision Loop Recording No Internal Battery 170° Super Wide Angle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VLSC3WS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_-Z1lybFXKDCET
This is the one I have facing backwards:
Black Box G1W-CB "Black Bezel" Capacitor Model Dashboard Dash Cam - Heat Resistant - Full HD 1080P H.264 2.7" LCD Car DVR Camera Video Recorder - WDR 140° Wide Angle 4x Zoom with Motion Detection Night Vision G-Sensor - NT96650 + AR0330 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P8F3LD0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_f11lybAK01K7Y
You would need to add memory cards.
Crap, I got the model wrong in the title. This is the exact camera: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P8F3LD0
Another option that costs more but will yield better video and is more discrete: Street Guardian SG9665GC v2 2016 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U0OJMYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0WrMxbBYSTX8A
Depends on budgets and needs:
High end: Black 2 channel
http://www.amazon.com/Blackvue-DR650GW-2CH-Built--Wi-Fi-Recorder/dp/B00MC56AXM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463874060&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=blackvue+dash+cam
Mid range: Street guardian. Sony sensor is good in low light compared to cheaper modesl
http://www.amazon.com/Street-Guardian-SG9665GC-Supercapacitor-DashCam/dp/B00U0OJMYG/ref=lp_10150278011_1_1?srs=10150278011&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463874182&amp;sr=8-1
Low multiple cards: Mini 806 (i have 803). Easy to have multiple bases and just move between cars
http://www.amazon.com/Dashboard-Camera-SplashETech-Smallest-Recorder/dp/B00XKM5A96/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463874025&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=mini+dash+cam
Mystery budget: aukey looks to have a 0803 rebadge for $60 worth a look
http://www.amazon.com/Rotatable-Camera-Recorder-Versatile-G-Sensor/dp/B01B2VO218/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463874025&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=mini+dash+cam
Discrete: Street guardian has this model that is hard to find but allows you to mount on dash and have a remote control mounted elsewhere.
https://streetguardian.info/products/digital-video-recorders/dash-cams/sgzc12rc-remote-lens-camera.html
Appreciate the advise, just purchased the Street Guardian
Si vives en el calor del desierto sonorense:
https://www.amazon.com/Street-Guardian-SG9665GC-Supercapacitor-DashCam/dp/B00U0OJMYG/
En el DF, hay una tienda de electronica en la plaza donde esta metro chilpancingo (segundo piso), venden cosas muy interesantes (as seen in tv) y baratas.
/r/Dashcam
Best cam recommendations
---
Cheapest: G1W-C(B) ($56 USD)
Best value: Xiaomi Yi Dashcam ($70 USD)
Discreet: A119 ($90 USD)
Versatile: Mobius ($75 USD)
Budget Dual Cam: BlackSys CF-100 ($95 USD)
Discrete Dual Cam: Blackvue DR650GW-2CH ($355 USD)
Night vision: Street Guardian SG9665GC ($209.95 USD)
Taxi/Uber Cam: Transcend DP520 ($195 USD)
Rules
---
Reddit members who are also Retailers are NOT Allowed to Post links to their site / eBay listings / Amazon listings / Aliexpress listings /etc. This is a common sense and anti-SPAM rule, but it was asked to be spelled out.
Also please do not post Dailymotion.com and Liveleak.com links, only Youtube, and the content posted must not come from any "compilation" channels (ones dedicated to uploading stolen content with no permission from the owners of the content), please post the original link, not a reupload, unless the original is not available.
See Also:
---
www.dashcamtalk.com
www.dashcamtalk.com/forum
/r/Roadcam
/r/carcrash
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Sorry for asking but have you tried to google it? Simple query to google "dash cam 256gb" return me a bunch of options, one of them is here: https://www.amazon.com/Street-Guardian-SG9665GC-microSD-Supercapacitor/dp/B00U0OJMYG
This is the camera I am using. I actually bought it in person from Jon, who is the USA distributor of Street Guardian cameras (he lives in Carson city).
I used to have the Mini 0803, then the 0805, and now this. The mini 0805 wasn't a bad camera, it just had reliability issues and would randomly stop recording. I wanted something better, and the Street Guardian came highly recommended.
Since we have the same car, I can tell you more detail about where I ran the wires and where I mounted the camera, just send me a PM.
The one I have is this one, which is $200 but there's a cheaper option with the same body style here. The cheaper one just doesn't perform as well at night because the sensor isn't quite as good, but it should be more than sufficient for most people.
That cam is glorious.
It says street guardian, is it this one?
It's probably not a really popular item for thieves to target specifically, as it'd be hard to unload it or get much for it if you did; not really a lot of demand for used dash cams. There's always a chance some really desperate and not very bright junkie might be tempted by it, or someone who broke into your car looking for other valuables might swipe it as well, though.
I've a Street Guardian currently, and while they aren't readily available here, there are many cams with a similar small profile; you can mount it up behind your rear view mirror and it's much less visible from outside than some big dangly G1W-format cam unless you're looking closely.