(Part 2) Best electronic accessories & supplies according to redditors

I think EA has now fallen into one of the most common pitfalls of F2P games: They're targeting whales. People for whom spending $1000 on anything means so little to them that they don't care. Management looks at their sales numbers, sees that they do make a lot of money off the expensive stuff, and keep making more expensive stuff.

Problem is, it's a very short term mindset. When the regulars see how impossible it is to keep up, they leave until the only people left are the whales, and when the whales have nobody to brag to or play with, they'll eventually leave too. The fewer people that are playing, the less attention the game gets, the harder it is to replace players who quit.

With this game specifically, that scenario could be very bad for EA because Disney is licensing out the Star Wars brand for both profit and publicity. If it's generating negative attention or being used for for games that are being ignored, EA risks losing it when their contract is up for renewal.

Vote with your wallets. See a F2P game that has abusive pricing practices? Go play something else. It's not really much different than those insanely priced HDMI cables. The people who do buy are never going to be talked out of it.

Sony MDR-7506

They've been a standard for professional audio engineers for decades for good reason - and they only cost $79.99 on Amazon.

I've had mine since the mid-90s and have traveled around the country with them crammed in a backpack and they have held up like a champion. I keep saying I'll replace them with the same model if they ever die, but they just keep working.... The only issue is that the ear pad covering wears away over time, but this is easily fixed by purchasing BeyerDynamic velour pads. These pads are super comfy, and well worth the $23. They're not just a replacement for the original, they are an upgrade.

I'm going to take this in the opposite direction.

ALWAYS buy a cheap HDMI cable. They work just as well as the $200 Monster cables.

Edit: I cringed.

Great gift! Does it have to be Best Buy? You can often do better elsewhere or even better used.

Stereo Receiver or for music and movies/TV, an AV receiver with HDMI connections.

Then add Speaker Wire or Basic and 4 Ways to Strip Wire - wikiHow.

Home Audio Guides: Intro to home stereo systems • Zeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videos • r/audiophile Guide to Home Audio • Speaker Placement for Stereo Music Listening

Home Theater Guides: r/HTBuyingGuides FAQ • How to Set Up a Basic Home Theater System - Lifewire • How to Set Up Your Home Theater Receiver • Speaker Placement for Home Theater • TV vertically centered at eye level while seated • r/hometheater

You should have bought a better HDMI cable.

Yo guys, Steam link is $19.99 right now on Amazon if anyone's interested!!

I think the deal will end within 24 hours so be quick - saw it on the "today's deals" section.

I just placed my order (with a bunch of other stuff). Can't wait :D

DEAL IS STILL LIVE JUST SELECT AMAZON AS A SELLER https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B016XBGWAQ/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all

Lowest price ever, usually goes for $20

https://np.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/search?q=steam+link&sort=new&restrict_sr=on&t=all

Edit: Game UK also has the same price with cheaper international shipping than Amazon!

http://www.game.co.uk/en/steam-link-816924

$1000, that's cute. https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

Five feet of speaker wire is not as much as it sounds and 8ga is serious overkill for that setup. You can get terminated speaker wire or an entire spool for not much more. You will hear no difference with 16ga wire and you get so much more.

This just happened to me too. I simply went on to amazon and ordered a Mohu Leaf for $35 from the warehouse deals.

http://www.amazon.com/Mohu-Leaf-Paper-Thin-Indoor-Antenna/dp/B004QK7HI8

It picked up like 50 channels here. Best thing I purchased in a long time.

People already linked the other two $150 stereo receivers from Best Buy but there's also this one that you should be able to price match to Amazon for $130 (or just buy it from Amazon).

If you don't want a gigantic amplifier I also recommend the Topping MX3 for $94 at Amazon.

You're also going to need some speaker wire which is probably overpriced at Best Buy and some type of cable to get sound from your computer to an AV receiver if you don't want to use bluetooth.

ATH-M50S with velour DT250/280 pads

This pic shows the difference for anyone looking to do the "mod"

http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/product-gallery/B0016MF7W2/ref=cm_ciu_pdp_images_3?ie=UTF8&index=3&isremote=0

I also own a pair of these and if you want them to be comfortable you may have to grab some $20 velour pads. I have these as well and they make it far more comfortable to wear. I literally have these on for 8 hours after playing Civ and besides them being a little warm (Florida) they're super comfy.

You mean this isn't a good buy??

Also FYI for anyone who is looking into getting a Steam Link, it is currently on sale for $20.00 on amazon.

I was on the fence but decided to pick one up today :)

One of these bad boys

Not just Brick & Mortar.

This one.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Elevation-Lab-Anchor-Under-Desk-Headphone/dp/B00P31BMHG/

I love it, keeps my headset within reach but out of the way.

Sorry to hear that, hopefully though you're on the road to recovery.

So two options you have...

1. Use a controller with a 3.5mm headphone jack and plug speakers or headphone into that, or if it doesn't have that the Microsoft Stereo Headset Adapter, plug speakers/headset into that and the adapter into the controller
   
   
2. Buy a DAC, plug the optical/TOSLINK into the DAC and the other end into the SPDIF port on the back of the Xbox One, power the DAC using the USB port on the Xbox One and then plug your headphones/speakers into the 3.5mm port on the DAC. By DAC I mean something like this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/PROZOR-Digital-Toslink-Analog-Converter-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462798176&sr=8-2&keywords=dac

Pssh...that's still small time. Those guys need to get on AudioQuest's level: https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

100 euro power cable? seems legit

at least its not a 1000 dollar HDMI cable

Absolutely, and you can even get it for $20 today in the US from Amazon

Ok, maybe not amazons basics but you can acquire a cable which...somehow someone will buy.

Behold, beyond your wildest dreams does the ultimate ripoff exist


____

BUT WAIT

Could it possibly get any worse? YES

People really need to spend a little bit more money on sound in their setups. A real 5.1 surround setup can be had for <$300 and even the cheapest option will blow any soundbar out of the water.

Go with a slightly smaller TV even if it means getting a receiver and some speakers, way more immersion for your dollar than anything else. And modern stuff with CEC keeps controlling everything super simple, i dont even need my Harmony remote anymore.

In this case a $50 2.1 set of computer speakers is an improvement over the tvs built in, but not by much, and not helped any having them all on the same little shelf like that either.

EDIT: https://smile.amazon.com/Onkyo-HT-S3800-Channel-Theater-Package/dp/B01F3ENAOU/
https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y/
https://smile.amazon.com/Mount-MI-1214-Surround-Satellite-Capacity/dp/B003R0AXPW/

$303 with enough wire to go the long way around and speaker stands, so no drilling even. Even if you dont have the biggest TV itll make everybody want to have movie night at your place.

Same goes for the Steam Link (but they are temporarily OOS):

http://smile.amazon.com/Steam-Link-Pc/dp/B016XBGWAQ/

These get much more comfortable when you throw a pair of new pads on them. I went with these.

DO NOT USE THESE, they make it VERY easy to break your 3.5mm jack.

Instead, use something like this that separates the 1/4" section from the smaller jack:

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-MHE-100-5-Right-Angle-Headphone-Adaptor/dp/B000068O6B/

Alternatively, you can get this aftermarket cable:

https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Audio-upgrade-Sennheiser-Headphones/dp/B00KAKBHKM

You mean the Diamond HDMI cable that I paid nearly $1,500 for is almost exactly the same as one I could pick up for $5???

I can't believe people would just go on the internet and deceive others in order to sell their overpriced product! /s

Joking aside, I feel bad for people who don't know this and spend any more than $10 on an HDMI cable.

A link for the lazy.

That looks like the leaf. I tried it in my place but couldn't really get good reception. Well done OP.

Shit, even $50 cables are too risky for me. That's why I get the AudioQuest Diamond Braided HDMI Cable.

Monster cables are rookies with their $100 cables. I think you mean audioquest, makers of the $1500 HDMI cable.

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

Unless it was this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003CT2A2M?pc_redir=1406538610&robot_redir=1

dont forget this

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2FJF1RRE0QUS4&keywords=diamond+hdmi+cable&qid=1558727011&s=gateway&sprefix=diamond+hd%2Caps%2C198&sr=8-3

Wouldnt wanna sacrifice any quality..

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-211566803-Replacement-Single-Headphones/dp/B001DFX2OC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1422645236&sr=8-3&keywords=mdr-v6+replacement+pads&pebp=1422645255579&peasin=B001DFX2OC

or if you want to get fancy, these are pretty comfy too:

http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-EDT250V-Headphone-Pads-Black/dp/B0016MF7W2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1422645248&sr=8-2&keywords=mdr-v6+replacement+pads&pebp=1422645316011&peasin=B0016MF7W2

Quick note, that DVI-D to Display port won't do 144hz. You need https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Dual-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY or some other active powered adapter. They're usually 100 bucks or so. I was considering getting one because I had the same problem as you but I just bit the bullet and bought a new monitor.

I got the Mohu a few years back. I really like it.

Mohu Leaf

at a minimum you are definitely going to want something like this

AudioQuest Diamond 1m (3.2 feet) Braided HDMI Cable

I started with just a few things and then listed everything I see... sorry for the spam
(these are all things I have, feel free to ask any Q's)


- Mini Fridge - https://www.amazon.com/Danby-DAR026A1BDD-3-Designer-Refrigerator-2-6-Cubic/dp/B00MO6V96W/ref=sr_1_8?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1519347546&sr=1-8&keywords=mini+fridge


- Cup - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUBR8UH/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Air Cleaner - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BI4UQK0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Good Chair Mat - https://www.amazon.com/Black-Chair-Mat-Rectanglular-ABS-RC-4655/dp/B00D83MURM/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_229_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CMJS2EM6STF7XCCJZGWZ&dpID=51%252BWDnIRG0L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail


- Big Boy Ergo Chair - https://www.ergoexperts.com/collections/ergonomic-chairs/products/office-master-iu79hd-24-7-intensive-use-heavy-duty-high-back-ergonomic-task-chair


- Camera Mount - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CMLX1O2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Space Heater - https://www.amazon.com/Lasko-Ceramic-Heater-Remote-Control/dp/B00PYDGN18/ref=sr_1_17?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1519348189&sr=1-17&keywords=lasko+space+heater


- LED Lights - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LX9Z3LH/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Foot Rest - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EN9W3UY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Wrist Rest - https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=node%3D510182&field-keywords=lasko+space+heater&rh=n%3A1055398%2Cn%3A3206324011%2Cn%3A9425950011%2Cn%3A510182%2Ck%3Alasko+space+heater


- Underdesk Headphone hanger - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P31BMHG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Trash Can - https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Commercial-295700GY-Wastebasket-Rectangular/dp/B079WPRXXS/ref=sr_1_26?ie=UTF8&qid=1519348333&sr=8-26&keywords=trash+can


- Cat Bed - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJRCQBW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Keyboard - https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2164


- Keycaps - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/PBT-Backlit-Keycaps-109-Keyset-Top-Printed-Cherry-MX-Key-Caps-For-Tenkeyless-87-104-108/32842167507.html?src=google&albslr=220105582&isdl=y&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&source=%7Bifdyn:dyn%7D%7Bifpla:pla%7D%7Bifdbm:DBM&albch=DID%7D&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=708-803-3821&isdl=y&albcp=653478879&albag=34653160498&slnk=&trgt=75384829977&plac=&crea=en32842167507&netw=g&device=c&mtctp=&gclid=CjwKCAiA8bnUBRA-EiwAc0hZk62T3uqIKPVAUNx-ATVUQIzI8kscvB4UdNBR5dMpZ46l1gp9aoD38BoCNXQQAvD_BwE


- Mouse - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JPOLLTK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Mouse Mat - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0745N6CMD/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Headphones - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R99S14/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
& https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008POFOHM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Dac/Amp - https://www.jdslabs.com/products/48/objective2-odac-combo-revb/


- Speakers - https://emotiva.com/products/airmotiv-6s


- Subwoofer - http://www.outlawaudio.com/products/m8.html


- Mic - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KCN83VI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Mic Interface - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012MIVUQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Boom Arm - https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1194415-REG/o_c_white_ulp_mb_proboom_ultima_lp_adjustable.html?sts=pi


- Web Cam Alternative - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G9EYN26/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Lens - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDGB94S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- PC Cam Interface - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4SM7H6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Lights Boxes - https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Digital-Photography-Fluorescent-AGG883/dp/B0091HO1FS/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519348726&sr=1-10&keywords=16%22+x+24%22++soft+box


- Light Box Stands & Clamp - https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1327281-REG/ultimate_support_17637_jamstands_fixed_length_boom.html
& https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010CYHW4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Light Bulbs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IB8O2VU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'll make a list of stuff you need. For the best "bang for your buck" in the $200ish price range.

-----------------------------------------

Speaker wire. Amazon Basics makes great stuff. If you want, you can get 100 feet of it for an extra $2 I think. You can get those monoprice banana plugs if you want. They just help if you're going to be switching speakers around a lot.

Simple wire stripper. Should work just fine.

Cable to plug it in. That'll just plug the amp into a computer. And that cable is amazing quality. For real. I don't know what it is about it, but the moment I touched that cable I knew it was special. This isn't a joke either. You'll understand when you get one. Trust me.

50 watt per channel amp. This thing will be more than enough. I just like it because it is open box, so cheap. The same one new on amazon is $65. If you want to order from amazon, you can just get the smsl sa-36a. Same amp, just 20 watts per channel. Which, again, is plenty.

[Here's that cheaper smsl amp] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017W13OR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_U2NSBbTRHGFS5). I've got a few of them. They're great. This is what I'd go for if the other one is sold out.

Cheap but good little amp. I don't have one of these because I'm not a fan of the looks, but they get great reviews and a lot of people really like them.

---------------

Speakers:

Miccas. These things are nice for that price. In this price range, you really won't be getting anything better unless you go DIY.

Fluance SX6. These guys are big, but they throw a good amount of sound and some pretty deep bass for a pair of bookshelf speakers. Careful, they're pretty big.

Pioneer. These things are decent, but I think the Fluances would be better for this price. The SX6s throw more bass, which is good if you're not getting a sub. However, these are smaller.

Fluance signature series. I know, you said your budget is only $200, but you said if you need to spend more, then you will. These will sound better than all of the other speakers linked, however, that's not why they're here. I put them here for two reasons. The first is that they're front ported. Most people that are new to speakers might put them up against a wall or close to it, not understanding that the port needs some room to breathe. These have front ports so that's not a problem. The second reason, just look at them. If you really care about looks, these ones are the ones. They're beautiful. (My opinion obviously).

Oof almost forgot. Pleaae don't place the speakers directly on your desk.

--------------------------------

That's a lot. I'll sum it up with my opinion and why.

Amp: smsl sa36a. For close range, you don't need anything with more power. This thing will do whatever you need for bookshelf speakers.

Speakers: micca mb42x. Why? Here's why: for this price range, you won't notice a huge difference in any speakers, unless you get some bad ones. So, get the cheapest ones you can. Later on, if you can afford to upgrade them, you'll probably want to do that. Then you'll have a pair of $80 speakers that you don't need rather than a pair of 130 speakers that you don't need. Another reason I would pick the miccas is because they punch above their price range. Most people say they sound more like a pair of $125 speakers rather than a pair of $80 speakers. So, for real, they're good. Also, they're the smallest of the bunch.

Or, build a pair of C Notes and get something way better than any of these.

Hope this helps!

What a great view! Also, I really love the idea of the frame TV but I feel like that console underneath ruins the illusion because it’s such a “TV” setup. A little cable management molding and you could ditch the console for an even cleaner look.

That HDMI cable is shit. Get this one instead: http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M/

KEF Q100 ($250)

Micca AD250 DAC/Amp ($100)

Micca speaker wire ($20)

Dayton SUB-1000 ($120)

3.5mm to RCA cable (for sub) ($8)

Total: $498

This would be a solid, solid setup for really fantastic value.

Same price on Amazon in case you don't want to deal with GameStop.

Pretty typical sale price for this, so don't think you need to jump on it immediately if you're on the fence. We'll see this price again.

https://www.amazon.ca/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y

I love that they auto swap input. Genius

You don't need an outdoor antenna unless you're in a very rural area. Most indoor antennas will pick up stations within 40-50 miles. I just got one and I can get stations in RI and NH. Boston broadcasters are rock solid and I'm actually thinking of dropping cable.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QK7HI8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Hole in the wall and drop the cable down. Then put a wall grommet near your outlet.

Or one of the cable hiding plastic pieces, legrand makes a good one but make sure you use vinegar to remove them or else they’ll pull the paper off the drywall which Is a pain to fix.

Legrand


Wall grommet

Edit: forgot to mention that if you’re putting a power cable in the wall you’ll need a different cable to actually run through the wall to keep it in code as it is a potential fire hazard. Here is a good kit that would fit for this example

Topically relevant. Check the reviews.

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ

The 0's are OK, but after many copies, some of the 1's may start losing fidelity, so they become 0.9, then 0.8 and so on. Past a certain point the playback software will not be able to discern that from a 0, and will have to interpolate from neighboring pixels. The interpolation process will lower the resolution so the original 1080p will start looking like 720p.

You can keep the bits fresh by using ethernet cable from reputable manufactures such as Denon.

https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AKDL1-Dedicated-/dp/B000I1X6PM

Unfortunately they stopped making it so our videos are doomed to lose their 1's eventually.

But you can compensate for that by playing back the videos over a high-quality HDMI cable.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

My god, $7,000? I could buy five HDMI cables for that!

When you're feeling the inevitable buyer's remorse, just remind the people laughing at you that it was endorsed by Sylvester Stallone. Probably won't help, but worth a try.

Thats a VGA female to DVI male adaptor. You can get them at just about any electronics store. Here's one on amazon.

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The three channel you listed are just standard over-the-air "network tv" channels. You can pick those up with an antenna for free. I think they're actually pretty damn good HD quality these days.

I've heard the "leaf" antennas are good: http://www.amazon.com/Mohu-MH-110583-Antenna-Premium-Connectors/dp/B004QK7HI8

You can go crazy and get huge outdoor antennas, but I don't think most people need those. /r/cordcutters and /r/ota should have some pretty decent info you can search up.

• Denon AVR S530BT - $150
  
  
• Micca MB42X-C Center Channel Speaker - $70
  
  
• A Pair of Micca MB42X Bookshelf Speakers- $90
  
  
• Dayton Audio SUB1200 subwoofer - $164
  
  
• 100' of 16ga AmazonBasics Speaker Wire - $11
  
  Granted this is a TINY bit over budget but I really think a subwoofer and a center channel are important to give you the home theater experience.
  
  This would support modern codecs, Bluetooth/AirPlay etc be able to take hdmi in from your devices then send a single hdmi to your projector to feed it video.
  
  Later on when you have the $, buy another pair of the MB42X and use them as surrounds.

This is the cable you want to get to replace it.

Is this a good deal? AudioQuest Diamond 1m (3.2 feet) Braided HDMI Cable - $1,094.75

Yes, the cord that comes with it is crap imo. I got this cord recently for mine and it's fantastic.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAKBHKM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also applies to the Steam Link.

They're HS7's! I used these for my wall mount. Very sturdy and work perfectly. Def need studs tho. VideoSecu One Pair of Side Clamping Bookshelf Speaker Mounting Bracket with Swivel and Tilt for Large Surrounding Sound Speakers MS56B 3LH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X9O8SI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_y6M4DbGXM6NX5

For me, and I completely understand that this is a full throttle first world problem, it's about clutter and inputs. I already have 4 HDMI devices "connected" to a 3 HDMI input TV - and have to go pull cords when I want to use the extra one. A 5th would just add to that annoyance. That plus, more controllers I'd have to have laying around, more TV cabinet space I'd need to have to fit both devices... I understand these aren't deal breaking obstacles, but it would be nice to just replace one system with another and that be that.

Edit: took everyone's advice and got a switch. Just arrived: http://i.imgur.com/aDvMzUD.jpg

Here's the details of what I went with, for anyone curious:
Kinivo 501BN Premium 5 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p
http://amzn.com/B0049SCB2Y

> you get what you pay for.

You might be interested in this hdmi cable then

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT08E4/

The quality of the 0 and 1s that comes out of it is simply breathtaking.

Fuggin pleb, you can't handle my HDMI cable.

Nah you've gotta go Diamond! https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495904263&sr=8-4&keywords=diamond+hdmi

Couldn't really find what I was looking for specifically, so I scoured a few subs and saw numerous suggestions. Ended up purchasing the following items:

Dayton Speakers

Lepy Amp

RCA to AUX

Polk Subwoofer

Speaker Wire

Super happy with these purchases. All in all it costed just about 200 bucks. For me, it's all I will ever need. Crisp sounds and heavy bass when I want it. Would consider shelling out for a better amp, but the amp provided should be sufficient if you aren't blasting your music.

Additionally, if you do plan on doing an audio set up of this nature, use this image to guide you. Also note that the DAC in the image would be your RCA to AUX if you were to use the set up I posted. If you have any questions feel free to ask.

Your best option is to plug directly into your receiver if it has an HDMI port. If it does but they are full, you can get an external switch to change sources, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XUQU/. If neither of those options work, an audio extractor is your next option, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIQER0E/. This will still output HDMI video, but also send the digital audio out an optical port so you still get surround sound, though you will probably get a few milliseconds of lag, probably nothing too noticeable. In the magical event you don't even have optical, it still has stereo outputs which, for music, will be just fine.

Give me about an hour and I'll edit this comment with store links to what I got.

Edit: Here is the list

1. Receiver/Amp This is very basic and will only support the bookshelf speakers themselves. If you want to add a sub or center, your going to need a full on stereo receiver. WARNING - when plugging in the banana plugs into this receiver, i had to force them in a bit to make them stay in. I thought I broke it, but my friend who recommended me this receiver said thats how his is too. so if the banana plugs go in weird, its ok :).
   
   
2. Audio to RCA adapter. This is the wire to hook up to your PC. This could vary per setup. My setup goes from speakers to receiver, then receiver to PC with this cable. You could use RCA to optical cable as well. You have to make sure that if your PC is hooked up to your TV or monitor via HDMI to change the Audio input from hdmi to speakers.
   
   
3. Speaker wire This is how you connect the speakers to the receiver. and the best way to do that is with banana plugs
   
   
4. Bananna Plugs - Any kind will do and each banana plug hooks up to the wire differently. Some come with instructions, others you might have to google. I had to look at amazon reviews to see how mine worked.
   
   Total - about 40 - 50 depending on where you get your stuff.

Get an Audio Technica AT-LP60 + an amplifier + speakers + speaker wire. That's what I have and it cost me less than $180. Here's the Amazon links for everything I have:

Record player

Speakers

Pre-amp

Speaker wire

STAY AWAY FROM CROSLEYS OR ANYTHING WITH BUILT IN SPEAKERS. DO NOT BUY A RECORD PLAYER UNDER $80. IT'S WORTH IT TO SPEND THE EXTRA MONEY AND GET A SETUP THAT WILL SOUND NICE AND WON'T DESTROY YOUR RECORDS. Can't stress that enough.

Good on you for going with a gigantic screen. Plenty of upgrade potential sound system wise as well. What projector are you using? Short throw?

A few recommendations - bring those fronts down to ear level, and rears down to about the recommended height of 3 feet above ear level when you are sitting. You could use a stand for the left rear - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002HZHUCW/

If your worried about stand stability, use a barbell weight on top of the baseplate to weigh the stand down and make it more secure - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003072HC4/

Cable channels will help hide your cables really nicely - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015EDVVU/

> Audioquest Type 2 quad cable

Attention people out there on the interwebs reading this... don't buy this stuff. This is the same company that sells a $850 3 foot HDMI cable.

What bout [40 bucks] (http://www.amazon.com/Mohu-Leaf-Paper-Thin-Indoor-Antenna/dp/B004QK7HI8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420415414&sr=8-2&keywords=mohu+leaf)?

You'd need an HDMI splitter to send the output from one Roku STB to both displays. One example is https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS

I also really like these, great headphones at a great price. However the stock cords suck pretty hard unless you like grippy rubber cables. I picked up these as a replacement, and fully recommend them for anyone else who doesn't like the stock cable:

http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Audio-upgrade-Sennheiser-Headphones/dp/B00KAKBHKM?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02

It's a cable I got from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Audio-upgrade-Sennheiser-Headphones/dp/B00KAKBHKM

this baby: https://smile.amazon.com/Anchor-ORIGINAL-Under-Desk-Headphone-Stand/dp/B00P31BMHG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523683154&sr=8-1&keywords=the+anchor

Can you run them behind the wall?
If not, check out these covers, they can be painted to match the wall

Hi! I also have chronic pain/am disabled. I play Steam games with an Xbox One controller with the Windows 10 wireless adapter. (I tried the Steam Controller but it was bulky, not intuitive, and I basically hated it. lol. YMMV.)

I have my tower sitting in this cabinet, which I covered with this film to keep everything hidden. My husband cut out the back of the cabinet to install a fan / make room for the cables to come out of the back.

We used these cord covers to keep everything neat.

I use this wall-mounted swing arm from Amazon for my monitor. I push it toward the wall when I am done. (I put my chair/station in the corner for this to work.)

I sit in an IKEA Poang chair with ottoman, using this lower lumbar cushion and this coccyx cushion.

I use this mouse arm on the Poang chair, these cushions for my elbows, and a beanbag rest for my wrist (for when I have to use the mouse).

My keyboard sits on a shelf beside me and I pull it onto a lap desk (stored under my chair) for when I need to use it.

I also have a wall mount for my Xbox One controller.

I hope that helps! It took me a long time to get something together that keeps my living room still looking like a living room. :)

I wouldn't take amazon's prices as the market prices.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

> like this one

What the actual fuck? I mean, it doesn't even have Solid HIGH-DENSITY POLYETHYLENE INSULATION

HDMI hub to the rescue! http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1374698119&sr=8-2&keywords=hdmi+hub

Same price on Amazon if you want to avoid Steam's outrageous shipping.

Steam Link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016XBGWAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HOdoybG62B23J

Amazon.CA has it for 25.99 too....If you guys missed it at EBGames

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/

https://www.amazon.com/Steam-Link-pc/dp/B016XBGWAQ

http://store.steampowered.com/app/353380/Steam_Link/

Streams your PC to your TV, and has ports for controllers. Just make sure you wire it to your router with an ethernet and to your TV with an HDMI for no latency issues. Also make sure your TV is set to Gaming or PC mode.

Its also $19.99 on Amazon.

Amateur-tip: Use a wall cover kit like this to make them (almost) disappear.

source: Home theater snob.

How about a $1,500 one?

>* Audioquest :)

Idk, I traded my HD800s for this and audio has never been clearer on my 720p Insignia

IMHO: A subwoofer isn't optional when it comes to dubstep. You'll be missing all the low-end (which let's be honest, is why we're all here) if you omit a decent sub from you set up. As far as amps (I call these receivers) go, you'd probably be best off visiting your local pawn shop or anywhere you can get pre-owned electronics and picking something up. I got mine for under $100CAD and it has power to spare. For ease of set-up I'd suggest finding something with dedicated subwoofer outputs on the back. As for speakers, these or these will do right by you. Personally I use this subwoofer, and it has the juice to have my entire house shaking. Wires are pretty much standard in my experience as long as you're talking about a simple home listening system. These wires would do fine for your needs. If you want a proper listening experience dont use bluetooth speakers, and dont skimp on a subwoofer.

Hope that helps, my dude!

If you want to use the center channel you’ll need more than a basic 2-channel amp - you’ll need a home theater receiver. Any old 5.1 system will do. You should be able to get them used for well under $100. Their main downside is their size.

You’ll also need speaker cables - 16 gauge is fine unless you want to run them over 15-20 feet or so, then 14 ga may be an improvement.

Then run an aux cord from the PC sound out to auxiliary input on the receiver. You may need an adapter like this to go from 3.5mm to RCA inputs (or something that does a similar job).

No special audio interface needed if you’re not doing surround sound. Stereo input for the left/right/center channel is fine.

Not sure why my links came out all fucked up? Too lazy to try and fix it.

His.

Monitors: [Dell S2716DGR] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0149QBOF0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Triple Monitor Mount: [EZM Deluxe Triple Monitor Mount] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JG7G2E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s06?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Keyboard: [Corsair K70 Cherry MX Reds] (https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-K70-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B01ER4B8C8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526665446&sr=8-2&keywords=corsair%2Bk70%2Bcherry%2Bred&th=1)

Mouse: [Corsair Scimitar Pro RGB] (https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Gaming-SCIMITAR-Mechanical-Buttons/dp/B013KK9JOO/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526665487&sr=1-2&keywords=corsair+scimitar+pro+rgb)

Mouse Pad: [Razer Goliathus Overwatch Mouse Mat] (https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Goliathus-Overwatch-Mouse-Professional-Grade/dp/B01DXVKEJY)

Wireless Headset: [Steel Series 800 Wireless] (https://www.amazon.com/SteelSeries-Lag-Free-Wireless-Transmitter-Surround/dp/B016YGMH9U/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526665568&sr=1-3&keywords=steelseries+h800)

Speakers: [Audioengine A5+] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005OSR1C8/ref=twister_B00L3KRZS6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)

Speaker Mounts: [Audioengine DS2 Desktop speaker stands] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005STCILC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Desk Surface: [Ikea EKBACKEN countertop 98in] (https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80274864/)

Desk Drawers: Haha who am I kidding everyone knows that those are!

Lamp: [IKEA Hektar lamp] (https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40349376/)

Cable Management

[Raceways] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015EDVVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s06?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Velcro zip ties] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Desk Grommet ](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MX5TH4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Cable clips] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075WWCN1K/ref=detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Pc build specs

Case: NZXT H440

Motherboard: ASUS ROG Maximus IX Hero Z270 LGA1151

CPU: i7 6700k

RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 32GB

Power supply: Corsair RM series modular 1000W 80plus Gold

Power cables: Corsair custom sleeved in blue

CPU cooler: NZXT Kraken X52

Boot Drive: SAMSUNG 750 EVO 2.5" 500GB

HDD: 2TB Western Digital

GPU: EVGA 12GB Titan black

Hers.

Monitor: [Asus ROG Switft 34in ultra wide] (https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-ROG-SWIFT-PG348Q-3440x1440/dp/B01C83BE6U/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526666082&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Asus+-+ROG+Swift+34%22+IPS+LED+Curved+QHD+GSync+Monitor+-+Armor+titanium+Plasma+copper)

Monitor Mount: [VIV duial mount] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CUW5HDU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Mouse: [Razer Naga Chroma] (https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Naga-Chroma-Programmable-Adjustible/dp/B01798WKTY/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526666200&sr=1-4&keywords=razer+mmo+mouse)

Keyboard: [Corsair K70 Cherry MX Reds] (https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-K70-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B01ER4B8C8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526665446&sr=8-2&keywords=corsair%2Bk70%2Bcherry%2Bred&th=1)

Mouse pad: [Razer Goliathus Overwatch Mouse Mat] (https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Goliathus-Overwatch-Mouse-Professional-Grade/dp/B01DXVKEJY)

Wireless Headset: [Steel Series 800 Wireless] (https://www.amazon.com/SteelSeries-Lag-Free-Wireless-Transmitter-Surround/dp/B016YGMH9U/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526665568&sr=1-3&keywords=steelseries+h800)

Speakers: [KRK Rokit 5 ](https://www.amazon.com/KRK-RP5G3-NA-Generation-Powered-Monitor/dp/B00FX7MMRO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526666262&sr=8-1&keywords=krk+rokit+5)

Desk Surface x2 : [IKEA Linnmon] (https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S39932699/)

Cable Management

Cable Rack: [IKEA Signum rack] (https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/30200253/)

PC Build specs

Case: Corsair crystal series 460X

Motherboard: ASUS ROG Maximus IX Hero Z270 LGA1151

CPU: i7 7700k

RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 32GB

Power supply: Corsair RM series modular 1000W 80plus Gold

CPU cooler: NZXT Kraken X52

HDD: WD 1TB

GPU: GTX 1080 ti SC

I've had my Sony MDR7506s for over 12 years and they are still going strong. You can replace the pads with higher quality ones

http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-Velour-Earcushions-MDR7506-Headphones/dp/B0016MF7W2

You can thank me in advance

If you don't mind spending more money on different parts for these headphones, these earpad and headband replacements are fantastic.

$14.99 on Amazon right now.

Steam Link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016XBGWAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jNX-zbJWASTTA

They're on sale right now.. $19.99 and $34.99. Free shipping on amazon. No one is going to under cut that here.

https://www.amazon.com/Steam-Link/dp/B016XBGWAQ/

option 1. get a fancy stereo that has HDMI passthough. you plug the CC into the stereo.

option 2. get a fancy doohickey - an hdmi audio extractor

option 3. run an audio cable out of the TV's headphone jack and into your stereo

Stay away from your second link, I got one of those and had trouble with it. I ran my PS3 through it and it would "black out" for a second or two every few minutes. Made gaming a pain in the ass. I attributed it to the fact that it leached power from the HDMI and didn't actually have a power pack. If that was indeed the case I would be cautions of the first option as well.

I ended up replacing mine with this and it has been working flawlessly.

We've been without cable for years. Between Netflix, Hulu, a decent HDTV antenna and torrents, I don't think we miss a thing. Sure, we may have to wait until tomorrow to see it, but we DVRed everything and watched it later anyway. If you can do without random flipping, go for it!

Thanks. It's a headphone anchor.
http://www.amazon.com/Anchor-Under-Desk-Headphone-Stand-Mount/dp/B00P31BMHG

Not sure if troll...but he linked to Amazon UK. You can buy it here if you live in the U.S.

Convert the optical to analog.

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/

and maybe this... but a splitter would work too.

https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3/

I don't know of a way to auto turn off the soundbar when you get sound.

However; you may get AV lag/sync issues when trying to convert to analog.

Steam Link is also $19.99.

EDIT: For Amazon Prime users only. Whelp - time for that free trial.

You just need a pair of clamp-on speaker stands like this.

You're off to a really great start! I have a few suggestions if you're looking for improvements. There are a lot of suggestions below, but that certainly doesn't indicate that what you've done isn't good. Rather, there are a lot of directions you can take the space and it's up to you to decide how to prioritize.

• I would NOT get a second cabinet in that same style for the other side, but you do need to finish that side with the speaker. I suggest a basket and plants (see below).
  
• I think you'd do great to change the curtains from a solid to a print to liven the space up slightly. The green color is fine, or you could go all-blue or yellow.
  
• Get a large basket to store the blankets in so they're not draped over the couch (unless you need them to protect the couch from pets or kids).
  
• I don't think the colors of your throw pillows on the couch really work. I'd stick with the blues and tans you already have in the room, but get a large bold pattern.
  
• Get at least 2 plants-- one small one to go on the little cabinet, and one large floor one to go on the speaker side of the TV.
  
• I'm not sure what the items on top of the cabinet are, but they're the wrong scale. Dress the cabinet up with stuff like a decorative vase, books, a large framed picture etc. Group items together in little clusters rather than spacing them out evenly, and try to vary the heights and textures.
  
• It doesn't look like a conventional coffee table would work, but you want somewhere to set a beverage down near the couch. I suggest getting one or maybe two narrow end tables to go by the arms of the couch.
  
• Lastly, I'd recommend getting a cable management sleeve to run along the floor on the speaker side to hid that power cord.

Something like this:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015EDVVU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Or for other jobs needing more width for more cables/cords:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015EA3NO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can then paint them to match the wall color. I have both of these products in my home right now and they're great.

Switch out the earpads. This is a common complaint with basic pleather earpads. They may be comfy and form-fitting but they don't breathe enough for some people (myself included).

An amazon customer image shows those Panasonic pads swapped out with Beyerdynamic 250 Velour replacement pads.

I just did the same "mod" with my Monoprice 8323s because the only thing $30 about those cans is the earpad material. Much nicer now with the velour. The $25 is a bit much for earpads as they're not as nice material as say the Beyerdynamic DT880's velour earpads but they definitely do the trick for me.

Get away from me, you filthy casual.

For indoor antenna its hard to beat the Mohu Leaf Paper-Thin Indoor HDTV Antenna.

Its about $40 on Amazon and provides the best quality reception of any indoor antenna I have had. (Some channels depend on your line of sight, particularly PIX for some odd reason).

EDIT: Amazon link http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QK7HI8/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You need an antenna.

Boston should have some great channels if you're near the city. Enjoy.

I originally did this install back in the day when these were first popping up and down, major credit goes to /u/zedix as I'm pretty sure he was the first one on Nasioc to start this whole trend for Subarus.

My first installation used a head unit that was tucked away behind everything. However the weak pre-amp, and the constant loss of settings (disconnecting battery), and lack on Steering Wheel controls really got annoying. So I set out on this Version 2 project.

*96svx.dc - David was an amazing resource with getting the required harnesses for an 08+, as my car came with a 24pin + 12pin adapter (premium nav) it was very hard to find 2 reverse harnesses that would make this install doable.**

• 2012 Nexus 7 - 1st gen
  
• Timur's USB ROM - in FI mode
  
• Typical Apps...
  
  
• Joycon CPJexr(CarPc Joycon Exr), converts steering wheel input into Keyboard strokes recognizable by the tablet. LINK
  
• Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 - 300watt amp with Molex input/output LINK
  
• USB Dual 80mm Fans with protective grill - LINK
  
• 3.5mm inline to RCA (dual channel) - LINK
  
• FiiO E10 USB DAC LINK
  
• Amazon USB hubs, cheap and easy to hack into - LINK
  
• Monoprice USB Extension Cables - LINK
  
• SanDisk Cruzer Fit 32GB - Stores Music - LINK
  
• Monoprice Micro USB OTG Adapter - LINK
  
• USB Y-Power adapter
  
• JDM 2-tone AV panel
  
• 12v to 5v DC/DC converters (You will need a couple of these, as they are from China they might be DoA)
  
• Other various adapters, and 14 ga wire for all of this to work..
  
  I created a double din sized Acrylic box from 1/4" sheets cut to size by a local shop... Here are the outer dimensions if you are interested in making a similar box to hold all of this.
  
  
• [OD] - 4" x 7" x 5.75"
  
• [x 1] - 4" x 7"
  
• [x 2] - 6.5" x 5.5"
  
• [x 2] - 4" x 5.5"
  
  Hardest part out of the whole install was coming up with the wiring scheme, as all of this is fed off of 12v ignition. The tablet needed to be able to charge, and the USB hub needed to receive power separate from the OTG y-splitter. I simply spliced into the cheap-o USB hubs and made my own DIY 5v USB hubs.
  
  
  
  
  

To build a system using the minimum recommendations from this sub, let's start with this diagram: http://i.imgur.com/Z8FMJ.png
DAC is optional, so is a subwoofer but I recommend one.

DAC: Behringer UCA202 $29.99 Link: http://amzn.com/B000KW2YEI

Amplifier: SMSL SA-50 $68.99 Link: http://amzn.com/B00F0H8TOC

Subwoofer: Dayton Audio SUB-800 $99.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B0063NU30K

Bookshelf Speakers: Micca MB42X $89.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B00E7H8GG2

Wire: 16-gauge Speaker Wire $8.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B006LW0WDQ

With DAC, this cable: Stereo Male to 2 RCA Male $5 Link: http://amzn.com/B00I0HPK6O

Without DAC, this cable: Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male $5 Link: http://amzn.com/B0094A1F3S

This is a great starter system, I would have loved to had something like this starting out.
All of these pieces can be upgraded, do your research. Look for sales etc. Good luck and have fun.

I advocate using component bookshelves speakers with a mini amp unless space is at a big premium. They are better engineered, have better bang for your buck, and have a much cleaner sound.

You have the added bonus that the speakers are more flexible for other uses and, if you wanted to go from 2.0 to something else, it's a pretty easy upgrade, ala: you don't have to pitch the old system and get something new. I think you'd find a good 2.0 system to be much more impressive than a lot of the gamer sound systems out there.

Polk Audio T15 Bookshelf Speakers

Dayton Audio DTA-1 Digital Amplifier

Amazon Basics Speaker Cable

Another note: A system like this will sound way fuller without a boominess that you'd get from most gaming 2.1 sound systems. All of my friends that I have recommended go this route have loved it!

DVI-to-VGA

1: Use a RCA->1/4" M-M cable

2: Buy some of these super handy adapters and use them with a regular RCA cable

I have never heard of "cinch cables", and a web search only turns up what are basically zipties, so I don't know what your friend is on about.

Bring an RCA-to-RCA cable, definitely, since you'll most likely be plugging your controller's RCA output into one of the RCA line inputs on the club's DJ mixer. But I'd also bring either an RCA-to-phono cable, or a pair of RCA-to-phono adapters, because sometimes you'll need to plug into a PA style mixer instead, which will use 1/4" phono jacks for its stereo line inputs.

I also carry an RCA-to-XLR cable - I don't need it very often, but it's nice to know that I'll always be able to plug in, no matter what kind of crazy situation I encounter.

Plug in to audio out-
Hosa CPR-202 Dual 1/4 inch TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 6.6 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O17/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eTqIzbXYC6G3A

• I started out with just trying to get it going on my laptop with kjams & a microphone.
  
• But that didn't sound good and look good, so I hooked up my laptop to my tv through a receiver
  
• But using my mic through the laptop mic hole, caused a delay between the audio of the song and the mic
  
• This is why you need a mixer. You need the sound of the laptop and the sound of the mic to arrive at the same time. I got this one. Mic goes in channel one, laptop goes in channel 3 or 4 (get the right cable)
  
• That mixer's output goes into my receiver now. My receiver allows to get the audio from a different input than the video. This was essential in my setup. I have a basic yamaha 4 hdmi receiver. I turn it to hdmi1, but get the sound from one of the audio inputs, where the mixer goes into (get the right cable)
  
• sweet, now I have music and mic arriving in my receiver, and it's going to the speakers and the tv is displaying my laptop
  
• now people are tripping over the mic cable and they want a second mic
  
• get yourself some wireless mics. the ones i bought are no longer for sale but they are "dual channel" and "uhf" or something
  
• now you need some songs though I have to say, just opening youtube and searching a song title + ' karaoke' works pretty darn well as well
  
• and some disco lights!
  
• my friends like it and say it's the best home setup they know
  
  
  Btw, nice effort on the è but you want the other one: fiancé
  It's easy to remember: é the stripe goes on and so does the sound. è the stripe stops and the sound is short
  
  

Wall mount stands

1. ssd https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAJ412U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
2. Hard drive https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IEKG2HM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
3. Graphics card https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814126109
   
4. CPU https://www.amazon.com/Intel-I7-6700-FC-LGA14C-Processor-BX80662I76700/dp/B0136JONG8/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1525461083&sr=1-5&keywords=i7+6700k&dpID=411v0MvpCaL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
   
5. Desk https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S19006323/
   
6. Monitor 1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VRCLHYS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
7. Monitor 2 https://www.amazon.com/Acer-R240HY-bidx-23-8-Inch-Widescreen/dp/B0148NNKTC/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1525460691&sr=1-1&keywords=acer+monitor
   
8. Desk mount https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AI2YGK4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
9. Speakers, they sound fantastic! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1ZTJJK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
10. Speakers mounting brackets https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X9O8SI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
11. External audio card for headphones: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZT7RE4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
12. Headphones, If you're into the bass this are the best. https://www.skullcandy.com/shop/headphones/bluetooth-headphones/crusher-wireless
    
13. Headphone stand https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUB8RJ5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
14. Phone stand https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QF1KDR8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
15. Mic https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0170NWLWY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
16. mic mount https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0170NWLWY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
17. Shock mount https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FQB3DD8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
18. pop filter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008AOH1O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
19. Camera https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXCDPPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
20. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXCDPPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
21. Keyboard https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016MAK38U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
22. Mouse pad https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FVPPE0E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
23. Ps4 stand https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015KJAQX6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
    
24. XOne stand https://www.amazon.com/PowerA-Charging-Stand-Xbox-One-Black/dp/B013JLB1IQ/ref=pd_sbs_63_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B013JLB1IQ&pd_rd_r=BD1B7QRYQ42ESY3F8MS2&pd_rd_w=uGnIp&pd_rd_wg=V2OJ4&refRID=BD1B7QRYQ42ESY3F8MS2&th=1
    
25. Plant https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/90207685/
    
26. Chair https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQKKS73/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
27. battle station more angles https://imgur.com/a/Ae2xEKl

Congrats! I love my 598Cs. They're going to be my go to headphones until Massdrop ships my K7XX :)

Now every I see the 598Cs I recommend getting this replacement cable.

It's worth every penny. Enormous upgrade over the stock cable.

"The Anchor" headphone hook. I own this. It's 2 years and running strong, I love it.

Just upgraded from my ATH-M50s. Well not price wise, but imo, soundwise.

I bought them for $50 off Newegg on Sale. Incase you haven't figured it out yet, they are the Phillips SHP-9500s.
__

First impressions:



Comfort:

• These things are super light and comfortable. Compared to my M50s, the clamp force is much lighter, and I don't get fatigued as quick from the clamp. Note that I replaced the earcups on my M50s with new earcups which definitely helped! But for $20 more, you could get the Phillips. After a bit you forget they're on your head.
  
  
• I find the earcups to be very comfortable, but the shape (Seal) maybe wraps a bit to wide for my tastes. I don't really mind it though and something I've gotten used to really quick, and maybe am starting to enjoy.
  
  
• They are a sweat magnet though, I will say that.
  
  ____
  
  Sound:
  
  
• Not going to go in depth with this, because many people have already said what needed to be said. But I will throw you some super quick impressions..
  
  Bass
  
  
• Bass is definitely not extreme or anything, but that's to be expected with opens. Honestly though, I really like the bass. I am not a bass head, and I think the bass on these are just right, it's clean, tight and sounds good.
  
  Midrange
  
  
• Mids sound great! Very smooth and detailed! Great for vocals in both female and male. Instruments sound great as well of course! Overall I really enjoy the mids on this. It's clean, detailed, relaxed.
  
  Trebel
  
  
• Trebel is very detailed, smooth, and crisp. Sometimes at higher volumes you can get a bit of sibilance, but not bad.
  
  Soundstage:
  
  
• I find the soundstage to be pretty good, not AMAZING, but compared to the m50s.. I find a definite improvement. Things sound more airy and open, and I find myself able to pinpoint instruments more clearly. As well as shots, footsteps, etc in games.
  
  _____
  
  Overall the sound is very good in my opinion.. especially considering the $50. It's an absolute steal if you ask me!
  
  __
  
  Notes: Remember these are openbacked headphones, so not really made for public use as everybody will be able to hear what you're listening to, as well as you be able to hear all the noise around you.
  
  This isn't really a con, because it's how they're made, and it's to be expected. So if you're looking for public use, you should not be looking for a pair of open backed headphones.
  
  ____
  
  Extra Information: The intergrated amp you are seeing is a Cambridge Audio Azur 640a v2. I use for my Vienna Acoustic Mozart Grand speakers. I use the headphone port for my headphones. The dac that it's being run through is a Fiio D3 (D03K).
  
  

Amazon does not appear to have any Steam Links of their own in stock, at least on the US Amazon site. All Steam Links for sale are from third parties.

If you can wait until they have stock you can choose Amazon.com (currently the 3rd listing, the one with Prime) here, https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B016XBGWAQ/, and it will ship for $15 when they have stock.

Here is a store page link that forces Amazon.com as well https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

How big is your room? What are you using this system for primarily - music, movies, video games? A mix? Are you looking for a 2.0 system (two front speakers only), a 2.1 (front speakers plus subwoofer), or something bigger (adding in another front channel speaker, subwoofer(s), etc.)? Are you located in the US or elsewhere? See below for some start-up recommendations, from a fellow newbie located in the US..

• You'll need a receiver for your speakers - here's a good, budget-friendly recommendation - Denon AVR-S530BT 5.2 - that gives you the option to grow if you want to add more speakers later on
  https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrs530bt/denon-avr-s530bt-5.2-ch-x-70-watts-bluetooth-a/v-receiver/1.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw2dvWBRBvEiwADllhn8_oJ4E863EeDHkxQq-pwS5Arqe8KszbfNru2guYIJQfnCzLYYgqUBoCwCkQAvD_BwE
  
  
• You'll also need some speaker wire to connect your speakers to your receiver - this will work fine:
  https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1524063706&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=speaker+wire&psc=1
  
  
• You'll probably need an HDMI cable to hook up your receiver to your TV. If you have one already, you'll be good to go. Otherwise, Amazon or any other electronic retailer will have one for you.
  
  
• If you want more bass, you'll need a subwoofer. Depending on your budget, a BIC Acoustech F12 ($212) or a PL-200i ($300) are often recommended around here. I picked up mine from Amazon.
  
• Also consider some speaker stands so that you can position your bookshelf speakers at the correct height/location depending on your desired listening location.
  
  That's really all you need to get started. There are tons of more recommendations/options out there - just throwing out what I recently learned when getting my set-up going. Good luck!

You don't need anything special https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y

https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrs530bt/denon-avr-s530bt-5.2-ch-x-70-watts-bluetooth-a/v-receiver/1.html

Micca MB42X Bookshelf Speakers With 4-Inch Carbon Fiber Woofer and Silk Dome Tweeter (Black, Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E7H8GG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0KIMAbACJDP4B

AmazonBasics 16-Gauge Speaker Wire - 100 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vLIMAbNV7J12N

An HDMI audio extractor might be helpful here. https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E

i'm using a monitor too. i bought a J-tech hdmi audio extractor from amazon. plug in the WiiU hdmi to it and use a coax or optical to the sound system.
i've since bought a new receiver with HDMI inputs but this thing worked pretty well.

$60? Where they on sale? They're $100 today =)

Personally I only buy these 'cause they're the best: https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

They're a little pricey at $4500 for 15', but you can't compromise on the transmission of your bits, amiright?

/s

From the compared $1k HDMI cable.

I think that is an out of stock price... This obscene thing is real🙁

Edit: Hold the phone! That price is now a bargain.

Audio quest indeed.

People in this sub don't think 3.5mm cables make much difference (we consider a lot of 'features' in a cable to be snake oil), but obviously aesthetics and basic functionality are awesome. Put simply, a lot of people are anti-AudioQuest.

Now, the cables you made look sick, and as long as they're not crazy expensive, people would love to buy one. I know some people would like cables with integrated mics as well.

I don't have much experience with parts, but Philmore and Neutrik make some nice components. I'm sure wherever you source your parts currently do a fine job with audio (as long as they have them!).

EDIT: I don't know if I should bother giving you advice since you do an amazing job as is, but having cables that would pair well with existing headphones with removable cables would help. V-Moda, Sennheiser Momentum, ATH-M50x's would be killer products to target. Also, if you have any experience with making headphone pads, that would be a good market too.

A splitter would not work in this situation. You need an active HDMI selector switch, tons of them on Amazon if you search for that. This one seems to be pretty popular: https://smile.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/

Here's the best way to handle this. I'm making assumptions that you have a smartphone and the RCA jacks in your car's armrest.

Get the following.

• a wired to bluetooth transmitter
  
• a usb car charge port
  
• 3.5mm to rca jack cable (as short as possible)
  
• a cd player mount for your phone
  
  Take the 3.5->RCA cord and plug the RCA ends into the aux jack inside the armrest. Put the USB charger in the 12v socket that's also in the armrest. Take the bluetooth transmitter plug in the power (with the supplied micro USB to normal USB cord) and plug in the 3.5 end of the RCA cord to the jack on the transmitter.
  
  Once the car is on and the transmitter is powered up, pair your phone to the transmitter per the instructions that came with it. After its paired, put all the wires and the transmitter in the armrest and forget about it. You'll never have to deal with it again unless something goes wrong.
  
  Now take the CD player car mount, and turn it so it's horizontal. Put your phone in it and adjust the sides to make sure it doesn't slide out. Switch your car audio system to AUX and leave it there. The only downside is you can't control the audio from the steering wheel. The only thing you can do is adjust the volume.
  
  Now you have an always updated nav system that has guidance and the ability to listen to all your music via the car stereo. I wouldn't try any other BT transmitter. It's the key to the whole deal and I know that one works. The rest of the stuff is universal and pretty generic. You may have some/most of them already. You can really shop around for the USB charger, RCA cable and CD player mount and get the cost down more. The whole setup should be around $75 or less.
  
  This is by far the most effective, economical way to get what you want. There isn't really a way to update or modernize the stock equipment outside of buying a new car. I'm pretty sure that's by design.
  

The Mohu Leaf antenna is the one I use. It picks up stations from the two cities that I'm in the middle of, each about 30-35 miles away. Plus, it's made in the USA. They also make a powered version that is supposed to get even better reception, but I can't speak for that one since I don't have it.

I use that antenna and Amazon Prime or "other" streaming sites for movies.

Mohu Leaf

Just pick up something like this and plug it in to your phone and the receiver and you're good to go.

I use a HDMI Splitter for my setup when I record Gameplay footage for my Youtube Channel.

Currently I own this and never failed me since,
http://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=sr_1_5?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1450792526&sr=1-5&keywords=hdmi+splitter

It is powered but its good.

Meanwhile in Canada... Amazon.ca :(

$60 canadian on amazon

https://www.amazon.ca/Valve-Steam-Link-Windows-Linux/dp/B016XBGWAQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498239633&sr=8-1&keywords=steam+link

also on amazon for lazy fucks like me

https://www.amazon.ca/Valve-Steam-Link-Windows-Linux/dp/B016XBGWAQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479941810&sr=8-1&keywords=STEAM%2BLINK&th=1

Just did a quick check, and this works out to $23.67 us, which at the moment works out to about $32 Canadian shipped.

Here is the link for anyone who was interested.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I drew on your map for the hell of it :P Probably not necessary to do that to give recommendations, but it was fun. Witness!

C9 is a great TV, call it $2k.

I would get two subs. A pair of VTF-2 is fine, but go VTF-3 if you don't want to wonder if you got enough sub. I marked the corners in the image with 1/2/3/4, I'd first try opposing corners and see how that sounds and/or measures. $1150 shipped for the pair of VTF-2, $1750 shipped for the pair of VTF-3. For $600 more you get a pair of 15" subs and no wondering. I say $1750 on the sub category.

I've drawn your setup from the top, so I'll go ahead and tell you what I drew for speakers - it's probably hard to tell from the black rectangles :)

The fronts are a pair of Paradigm Premier 200B bookshelfs on short stands, so they don't look stupid up on that shelf. You might not even need the stands, if the 24" from the shelf gets the tweeters to your ear level. $1k/pair, 20% off right now so $800.

The matching 600C center channel is a BEAST and is also on sale for $800, front stage total $1600. I just can't say enough good things about this lineup, if you have a dealer nearby, go give them a listen.

The surrounds I've shown on swivel mounts turned inwards to face the seating. You can also aim them a bit out into the room for a less direct sound, but I find with modern receivers and decoders, this isn't necessary. I'd suggest a pair of Paradigm Premier 100B, $640 on sale for these, on a set of the sturdy and affordable VideoSecu side clamping mounts, $25.

Tops, again, Paradigm, this time the P65-R in-ceiling speaker. I'm actually suggesting these based on personal use. They are the flattest, best measuring speakers in my system, and never mind the aimable tweeters - these speakers are designed for good, even dispersion, and it's amazing how well they work. Aimable tweeters are there to make up for dispersion and placement shortcomings, and you will have neither if you go with the P-65Rs. Don't pay retail for these, ask the dealer for at least 20% off since you're buying a full set of speakers. If they say no, find another dealer. It's a poorly kept secret that Paradigm very seldom sells for full MSRP. Call it $500 for the pair.

For the receiver, I know people like to suggest buying a refurb from accessories4less, but I've heard too many horror stories about broken equipment and poor support. I'd suggest the X3500h from Crutchfield, a rock solid company that will have your back if anything is wrong with the gear. The receiver itself has plenty of power for my recommended speakers, and has the best version of Audyssey, XT32 - important to get the most out of your subwoofers in particular. The X2600h you mentioned only has Audyssey XT, which is rather inferior to XT 32. $600.

Totals, then, are:

65" LG C9 TV $2000

Paradigm Premier 200B Front L/R $800

Paradigm Premier 600C Center $800

Paradigm Premier 100B Surrounds $665 with mounts

Paradigm Pro P65-R Tops $500

2x Hsu VTF-3 Mk5 Subs $1750

Denon X3500h Receiver $600

Total before cables $7115

($10 subwoofer cables and any decent copper 14 gauge speaker wire are fine)

Now, all that said, I would strongly consider the 77 inch LG C9. You'd still be just under budget, and sitting as far as you will be, the extra size will really help the system come together. The only question is if you have enough vertical space over the center channel speaker. If you do, grab the 77" and don't look back :)

I also disagree on tops/Atmos not being useful if you only do sports and TV. Asides from native Atmos content, receiver upmixing with the Dolby Surround upmixer is really quite awesome. It adds an immersiveness to the sound that you just can't get with a 2d audio setup.

Buy a U-Turn Basic, Micca MB42 speakers, Lepai amp, Pyle pre amp and some cheap speaker wire

It's over your budget but this is about as cheap as you can get while still getting new high quality gear.

Just a heads up, you'll want to purchase one of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Audio-upgrade-Sennheiser-Headphones/dp/B00KAKBHKM) to go along with it. The wire that comes with it is 10 feet long and the 3.5mm adapter is huge and clunky.

Your TV doesn’t appear to have any RCA outputs, but there might be a headphone jack somewhere else on the tv. If not, you could get an SPDIF converter for the optical out PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio L/R Converter Adapter with Optical Cable for PS3 Xbox HD DVD PS4 Home Cinema Systems AV Amps Apple TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aPYvCbT1S2HBC

I used these [hybrid pads]
(https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Hybrid-Memory-Foam-Earpad/dp/B00ZGGG3KY)

They opened the sound stage a bit and retained the sound quality, while becoming much more comfortable. I think the mid bass may have diminished just a little, but after breaking them in, the mid-bass returned to normal. I imagine the pads flattened out, bringing the drivers closer to their original position.
These are the only closed pair of cans I own, now. I sold my M50x's, Shure SRH840's, and gave my brother my old Sony MDR's because I love the M40x's. I use these with a Fiio E07K, and Spotify 320kbps, when on-the-go. I mainly use the Fidelio X2's at my desktop and put the HD598's upstairs for the "family" computer.

Bottom line, the M40X and aftermarket pads (if you don't like the stock pads) should be the only closed back headphones you need unless you want to spend over $300.

Keep in mind, this is just my experience/opinion. As is everything when it comes to audio equipment.

Alright, by hybrid I assume you mean these: (amazon uk link). How do they change the sound signature of the M40xs compared to the original ones because I've really gotten used to it and don't want to make them sound like $20 headphones.

ATH-M50x's with brainwavz pads since the stock ones are thin and will fall apart after a year of heavy use. And a ModMic.

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR86/ - $150~

https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Hybrid-Memory-Foam-Earpad/dp/B00ZGGG3KY - $30~

https://www.amazon.com/Antlion-Audio-ModMic-Attachable-Microphone/dp/B00R98O6R4 - $50~

Of course if you already have a mid the ModMic isn't needed. OR for just twice the price cut the second cord attached to your skull and get an AT2020 and even a Scarlett Solo for the best sound possible.

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2020-Cardioid-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B0006H92QK - $100~

https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56CM - $100~

Specs

Case: Thermaltake Core P90 Tempered Glass Edition

Motherboard: ASUS ROG Maximus X Formula

CPU: Intel Core i7-8700K

GPU: (x2) Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 (SLI)

RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32GB (4 x 8GB)

HDD: (x2) WD Blue 4TB (RAID 1)

SSD: Samsung 970 EVO M.2 1TB

PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 P2

Water Reservoir: Thermaltake Pacific 300ml Reservoir

Water Pump: PrimoChill Enhanced D5 Pump

CPU Waterblock: EKWB EK-Velocity RGB

GPU Waterblock: (x2) EKWB EK-FC1080 GTX Ti FTW3 RGB

Radiators: (x4) EK CoolStream XE 120

Fans: (x4) Corsair LL120 RGB Fan

Tubing: Thermaltake Pacific 16mm x 12mm Hard Tubing

Fittings: Bitspower 1/4" Multi-Link, XSPC 1/4" Ball Valves, Thermaltake Pacific 45/90 Adapter Fittings, Kyerivs 90s, EKWB 45s

Desk: IKEA Karlby Walnut 74" (Primary Desk) & 98" cut to 44" (Secondary Desk).

Drawers: (x2) IKEA Alex Gray Drawer Unit

Desk Legs: Etsy SteelImpression 14 ga. Squared Steel Tubes w/ Plastic Bottom Caps (Custom Order: 27 3/4" Tall & 25" Wide) Flat Black Finish

Monitors: (x3) LG 34UC80-B

Speakers: Kanto YU6 Matte Grey

Subwoofer: Kanto SUB8 Matter Grey

Keyboard: Corsair K)95 RGB Platinum

Mouse: Corsair Dark Core RGB SE

Mouse Pad: Corsair MM300 Anti-Fray Extended Mouse Pad

NAS: QNAP TS-451+ 8GB w/(x2) WD Red 8TB (RAID1)

Monitor Mounts: VideoSecure Monitor Mounts

Speaker Mounts: VideoSecure Speaker Mounts

Monitor Power Brick Mounts:(x4)(one for my surge protector mounted behind monitors) HIDEit Power BrickMount

In-Wall Cable Kit: Commercial Electric In-Wall Power Cord & Cable Kit

Ambient Lighting: (x3) Luminoodle Professional Bias Lighting - Large

>http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

Guess what was in that cable's "customers Who Viewed This Item Also Viewed" section -> A Really Expensive Rock

:D :D Gotta love the customer Q & A section on that rock.

Here's the cable for it.

Here is what I found on Amazon. The reviews are hilarious too.

You'll need one of these to protect against viruses.

obligatory comedy cable reviews

Refurbished Yamaha RX-V473B 5.1 Receiver $299.95 (Free Shipping)

Monoprice Premium 5.1-Ch Home Theater System ~$270.00 w/ shipping

Monoprice speaker stand pair $15.01 (included shipping above)

100ft AmazonBasics 16-gauge speaker wire $9.43

15ft RCA Cable $9.99


Total = $604.38

So all speakers need to be 'driven' by an amplifier- meaning fed electric power to do their magic in addition to the sound signal. Powered speakers have the amp built-in so you just need to send the line-level sound (typically over RCA connectors) and the built-in amp will take care of the rest. Passive speakers, by contrast, do not have an amplifier, and expect one to drive them in addition to the sound signal. Almost always they are both carried over speaker wire like this (https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503097133&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=speaker+wire&psc=1).

Those Dayton speakers are passive, so you will need an amp like the one you linked. I'm not familiar enough with that amp to give an informed judgment as to whether that amp is powerful enough to drive those speakers.

Also, for background, what the pre-amp (or phono stage) is doing is converting the very weak signal coming from your turntable cartridge to the line-level signal that external amps or powered speakers would expect. It also reverses the RIAA equalization put on records to sound better- it boosts the bass an diminishes the treble compared to what's cut on the record itself (if it was pressed without equalization, the stylus would bounce around in the groove because of the bass, and the treble would be too faint to play back reliably).

Well either get an active adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A493CNY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Or spend that $100+ to upgrade your monitor.

It's a huge pain to set up port conversion on these monitors. You'll need an active DisplayPort to DVI dual link adapter, which cost over a hundred dollars and have been reported to not work consistently with 144 HZ. Other stuff, like passive DP>DVI or HDMI>DVI cables don't work with high refresh rates. The one DVI-D port on your card would work fine, but don't expect to get 144 HZ on the other monitor.

Here's one, read the reviews if you want more info.

well if its a 144hz monitor, it means the only way to get 144hz is through dvi dual link, since you only have dp and hdmi youd have to shell out about 100 bones for an active dp to dual link dvi adapter

You couldn't come close to buying the parts required for less than you can get an already made solution.

They are $40.
http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=pd_sim_e_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1Q03FZS4CHMQ7KZKC7EF

You can just get one of these guys for $30, it will extract the audio for you out of the hdmi cable into a 3.5mm port:

http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Registered-Trademark-Extractor/dp/B00G9FDJNA/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1418679514&sr=8-11&keywords=hdmi+audio+splitter

I have this one myself, I just use a $2 RCA to 3.5mm jack convertor cable in addition to it. That way I could use the optical 5.1 out in the future if I wanted to:

http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418679514&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+audio+splitter

https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Audio-upgrade-Sennheiser-Headphones/dp/B00KAKBHKM/ref=pd_bxgy_23_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=EHKPX2AWKNBQKM46QMSZ

IIRC the HD598 uses a non-standard connector for the plug that goes into the headphones. It's actually not 3.5mm that plugs into the headphone but rather 2.5mm.

The HD 598SE (black version on Amazon) comes with a shorter cable that is 3.5mm without adapter if that interests you.

Otherwise, I believe there are unofficial "replacement cables" for the HD 598 that you can buy (I believe there are some official ones too but you have to scour the Sennheiser parts site) that are 2.5mm/3.5mm

http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Audio-upgrade-Sennheiser-Headphones/dp/B00KAKBHKM

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZGGG3KY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The Steam Link also appears to be available at that price, but it's sold out. You can still order and get it when available, though.

Same price from Amazon as well, and let's face it, who has better shipping and customer service standards?

Steam doesn't support ARM, so neither will work. You'll need something that runs x86, or a Steam Link.

$20 on Amazon right now

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016XBGWAQ/

Both the Steam Link ($19.99) and the Steam Controller ($34.99) are the same price on Amazon now which might be a better deal when factoring in shipping costs.
Steam Link
Steam Controller

I have the Mohu Leaf and it picks it up great. but it also depends on what floor he is on, distance from the tower, etc.

I picked up one of these a month ago after cutting cable. I have it near a window and it picks up about 29 channels, though half or more are in Spanish. The local HD channels which is all I care about look great.

Yes to all of your questions, assuming that your TV has an over-the-air tuner.

I use another model, but the Moho Leaf is an antenna with very strong reviews. Or, start off with a $15 Radio Shack model.

This one is actually a lot better. I use it and it tunes ABC, NBC, CBS, FOX, PBS, and a half dozen other things in perfectly clear HD. I have it mounted behind my TV, but you can put it anywhere and hook it to your coax system.

I'll emphasize again that this tunes HD, which even on a cable provider like Comcast or Warner is usually an EXTRA charge. It's a great option for me since the only TV I usually watch is on the main networks.

If you live in an urban area, you will most likely get the signal to watch your major sports on ABC, FOX, NBC, & CBS in HD with this. I am watching Jeopardy right now and watching the hockey game tonight.

Put your zip code here to see what kind of signal you will get.

Couldn't you get a cheap HDTV antenna? The Leaf is phenomenal and picks up signals for me that are around 40 miles away.

Hey all!

This is probably old news for many of you but for those thinking of setting up GroovyMAME with CRT_EmuDriver, do it; you won't be disappointed. It is a little bit of mucking around but the fruits of your labour are well worth it.

Some helpful links that I've collected along the way:

GroovyMAME -- Get the latest GroovyMAME from here. This forum is also pretty active so if you get stuck, you may find someone else in a similar spot as you. A great resource!

CRT_EmuDriver -- Get the latest CRT_EmuDriver versions here. Also has guides for setting up based on your selected hardware / software setup.

Wavebeam Guide -- Excellent and comprehensive guide from Wavebeam detailing the entire setup (including software and hardware requirements). Given that it is over a year old, use it as a reference to give you an idea of what is involved. The hardware aspects are pretty much the same now, but some of the pieces relating to software you will want to seek more up-to-date info.


Buttersoft Windows + CRT / PVM Guide -- buttersoft's supremely thorough thread on hooking your PC up to your CRT / PVM. Lots of great info here.

GroovyMAME Setup Thread -- Recap's thread on setting up GroovyMAME. The guides and posts on the Eiusdemmodi forum are descriptive and thorough. In particular, you should read this post as it has useful information pertaining to audio latency (search for 'PortAudio') and I foolishly missed it the first time and wasted a lot of unnecessary time with ASIO4ALL.

As for my setup, before I begin, I will point out that it is not ideal for someone planning to avoid Windows and boot directly into a MAME frontend. For that, you should really consider a discrete card that be flashed with Calamity's ATOM-15 -- more info here. I went the way I did because I wanted to be able to keep my computer relatively versatile given that I already have a dedicated cabinet.
With that out of the way...I spent probably more than I needed to getting this up and running. I couldn't find a whole lot of info about people who have set this up on relatively "new" hardware. Most people tend to favour older OS's and discrete cards, whereas I was more interested in Windows 10 and an AMD APU based system after reading this post outlining the hardware behind the recent SkyCurser arcade game. Enough waffling on:

• Case: IN WIN BM643BK18PNU3
  
• CPU / GPU: AMD A8-7600 Kaveri
  
• Mobo: ASRock A88M-ITX/ac R2.0
  
• RAM: Ballistix Elite 4GB Single DDR3 2133 (probably should get another for dual channel)
  
  It is all hooked up to my Olympus OEV-203 via a VGA to RGBHV cable, with the H/V sync on a BNC Y adaptor (male to dual female). I am just running the audio through the mono speaker on the PVM at the moment using a 3.5mm to RCA cable with a RCA Y splitter.
  
  Hope this helps some of you. Good luck!

Yes, buy an hdmi spliter:
https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS

The mall with the value village has a lil used computer shop and there is one near the Mitsubishi dealership.

Alternatively. They sell a dvi to VGA adaptor dongle that was popular when dvi cards first rolled out and everyone still have VGA monitors. (Hell anyone with an old cards likely have them collecting dust) looks like this https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000067SOH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mb44Ab48H3T80

I have been using one with no issue on newer cards, OTV would absolutely have one to buy. Not sure if that fits your specific requirements but its my guess what you are up to.

EDIT: Corrected diagram based on suggestions below.

Made your solution plan into a diagram for clear graphical representation. The cables needed that Destiny probably doesn't have/didn't order yet:

• ORANGE line - RCA to 1/4" mono TS jack
  
  
  
• BLUE line - 3.5mm stereo to dual 1/4" mono TS jack
  
  
• PINK line - 1/4" mono TS jack to 3.5mm stereo jack

Four connecting your record player, you'll need an RCA cable with a ground cable; something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CRA-202DJ-Right-Angle-Ground-Interconnect/dp/B000PO1H80/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1473063914&sr=1-1&keywords=rca+cable+ground

The speakers you can connect with speaker wire like this one: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0WDQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1473064034&sr=1-4&keywords=speaker+wire
Just make sure you don't switch + and -

You'll need an amplifier, since those speakers are not powered.

This is a cheap amplifier, if all you want is for your setup to work.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007VMA6OU

And one of these 3.5mm to RCA cables to connect your turntable to the amp.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000Q6LSWM

And some speaker wire to connect the amp to your speakers.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B006LW0W5Y

edit: listen to rpbtz's response. The sidebar has everything you need to know at this stage.

2.5mm is simply a size for the plug. You can do TRS (or TRRS) on a 2.5mm jack for balanced stereo audio.

As an example Sennheiser uses a 2.5mm end on their headphone cables to plug into the headphones themselves. Here's a replacement cable for Sennheiser headphones that is a 3.5mm male to 2.5mm male.

Or just a new cable like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Audio-upgrade-Sennheiser-Headphones/dp/B00KAKBHKM

This cable is a great replacement for the stock, preference for shorter high quality cable for your desk to amp/dac.

https://www.amazon.com/NewFantasia-LYSB00KAKBHKM-ELECTRNCS-Replacement-Sennheiser-Headphones/dp/B00KAKBHKM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Can you tell us the brand and model of the TV or show us a photo of the connectors on the back?

I'm skeptical that the TV has RCA audio out. These days they typically only have RCA in; audio out will typically be a toslink optical connection.

And therein may lie the answer. If your TV indeed has a toslink "audio out" connection and your "old CD player" has an RCA "aux in" connection, then you can use a TOSLINK to RCA converter to plug the TV through the CD player to the speakers.

Disclaimer: I hate desktop stands. They take up too much space and rarely look good.

My favorite. The only thing preventing it from being perfect is screw holes on the top for clean mounting under a desk.. I can easily add those though.

Second favorite. Works great, has screw holes for under desk mounting.

Nice wall mount hangers. I like these a lot for wall mounting.

The old standby. Cheap and effective. I use a few of these throughout the house for hanging headphones. No, they do not cause damage or indentations on headphone bands.

Absolutely no prob :)


My mom reviews electronics for a living so we end up getting tons of new devices really often and generally need to find cables to match so things are being switched out and added in all the time. To make it more convenient instead of having to go sort through a box or into a drawer and untangle cables I wanted something super easy access to so that if i needed an hdmi , bam, I had one. Same with the others.

For the controllers I used Stick-On Game Controller Hooks 2 Pack. The snes and nes usb controllers are simply hung via a tack.


I got a simple ~$10 corkboard from walmart, used a label maker for the labels and then used CraZy TACKz 36tacks to hang the cables. I wouldn't recommend them though, a standard tack works better honestly ( In theory a hook is great but they loosen and then swing around making it a pain to re-orient them when you're taking things on and off frequently.)

The headphones under the desk is The Anchor Great adhesive, super cheap and can orient it vertically or horizontally which lets you fit two pair ( in my case one for skype/discord+gaming and the other for general use since it has better quality but no mic)

---
For anyone else curious about the other pieces of the set up:

the desk is Series A:72inch Desk by Bush Business Furinture.

The lights are EconoLed RGB 5M 3528 LED Strip Light 300leds

Mousepad is Reflex Lab Huge Gaming Mouse Pad

The headphones are :
SteelSeries Arctis 5 and Audio-Technica ATH-A900X

Monitors are : ASUS VN279QL and Dell U3417W FR3PK

Keyboard is : Razer BlackWidow X Tournament Edition Chroma

Mouse is : Razer Naga Hex v2

So far the Bose Sound True II for apple seems pretty good. Too bad the deal wasn't for the android variant of it :( https://www.amazon.com/Bose-SoundTrue-around-ear-headphones-II/dp/B0117RFX38/

Don't think Im taking a chance on those bose earbuds. All the reviews rip it's Build Quality apart. I mean IEM's are mostly plastic but how do you make it that bad lol.


Sennheiser 598's SE are back on sale for 110$ 10$more than the lowest. Pretty good if you want open back. https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-HD-598-Over-Ear-Headphones/dp/B0126HISOO/

Pink Cloud II's for 75$ is pretty good. One of the best gaming headsets for your money. https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset-PS4/dp/B00Y09G6H8/

Beyer Custom Street?!?! what are these? Bassier versions of the custom ones? Now even sure if it's a deal at 99$ https://www.amazon.com/beyerdynamic-Custom-Street-Headphones-Black/dp/B00UK7ZQXO/

Other than the usual cheap ass wood earbuds and shitty gamer headphones this sale seems kinda sad :(

So far pretty good for entry level stuff but that's the "amazon" usual so it seems with every big sale.


edit: So in 2 hours this is supposed to drop in price, anyone hear anything good about these? I might bite to try them out as I'm currently using shit for iems. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OQG7IC2/
--

8AM PST these are going to drop in price, I know they are very popular :P https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B1QENY/ DT880 250 Ohm O.o
--

832AM Brainwavs hybrid pads are lined up for sale https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZGGG3KY/

Agreed. We used these in our living room and they are great. You can paint over them too, to match the wall color. Legrand - Wiremold CMK50 Cord Mate II Kit- Raceways Cord Management Kit to Hide Cables, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015EDVVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_12kHAbT2Z56TC

Do some simple cable management. Something like this and you'll barely notice the wires...

Sennheiser HD 558

"Open" headphones, which means the outside parts of these headphones aren't solid. And because it's open...

• Sound leaks out, which means other people can easily hear whatever you're listening to even at normal volume
  
• Wider soundstage, which means you can better pinpoint where and how far the sounds feel like they're coming from (imagine you were in a decently sized concert hall with the sounds coming from all around you)
  
• Less bass, which means you won't get those headrattling wubwubs and explosive bass hits
  
• More treble, which means you can hear the higher sounding stuff like pianos and snare drums
  
• Do-it-yourself moddable, which can help adjust the HD 558 headphones to sound closer to it's big brother, the HD 598, and may help add a teaspoon of bass
  
  -------------------------
  
  Audio-Technica ATH-M50
  
  "Closed" headphones, which means the outside parts of these headphones are solid. And because it's closed...
  
  
• Sound stays in, which means other people won't be able to easily hear whatever you're listening to even at normal volume
  
• Smaller soundstage, which means it's more difficult to pinpoint where and how far the sounds are coming from (imagine you were stuck in a small closet with the sounds coming from the walls)
  
• More bass, which means the wubwubs and bass hits have some more "punch" in them
  
• Less treble, which means instruments like pianos and snare drums are less "crispy" and sound duller
  
• Default earpads are commonly swapped out since the M50 earpads can wear out, may be uncomfortable, or the ears can get warm over time.
  
  -----------------------------------------
  
  Both are pretty good headphones, and there are pros and cons to each. Just remember to consider what kind of music you listen to, what kind of games you play, and whether or not people will be around you when you're listening to stuff! If portability is a concern, the ATH-M50x can fold up into a more compact shape if needed whereas the HD 558 can't.
  
  And welcome to the audiophile world! Your wallet will cry!
  
  Come stop by /r/headphones whenever you want!

They are super durable- Once you get the ear pads replaced, they can last for years. I've had mine for a few years; used them at home and on the job (live sound) daily. They still work good as new. Great cans. I'm glad you like them!

I haven't tried socks, but I have used some of these with good results.

Well since you know so much about HDMI, you would know that this is the best one you can buy:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT08E4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fKtLBb1M0YP8M

definitely get a better cable
the pricier, the more colors, i recommend
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

on a more serious note, you need hdmi 1.3 or above for 144hz 1080p, for 60hz 1080p, any will do
make sure to not waste your money on cables, its a digital signal, it works or it doesnt work, thats all the difference between one cable an another

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

My guess is you bought one of those cheap unshielded ones. You should really invest in one more like this.

Dude don't cheap out on your HDMI cables, get this one

/s

obviously you haven't had the same experience as these Amazon Reviewers

I use this:

http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411660653&sr=8-1&keywords=kinivo+hdmi

You can get it in 5 or 3 ports...I have a PS3, PS4, Xbox One, Wii U and a Roku 3 plugged into it...works well.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000X9O8SI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1449517010&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=speaker+wall+mount&dpPl=1&dpID=41CfBRdEQ5L&ref=plSrch

Might be far enough away

Pro tip: don't worry one bit about people saying you need to get into your own place. The rental market is rough here in CA, student loans might be an issue and a higher value couldn't possibly be placed on savings. This isn't the midwest or the 70's, you're playing the cards as you see them. Good job.

Also hide those damn cables from the TV.

OP if you use this suggestion make sure that the extension chord is UL certified as you seem to use a lot of outlets. (I would go with a thick extension chord found at your Home Depot/Lowe's.) Finishing it off with this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015EDVVU

My suggestion would be get a [UL listed] surge protector and purchase and place it in this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E1E20AI
My method would allow you to lessen the visibility of wires and with a desk and great chord management (snaking the wires behind the leg) you can make it look like you have no wires or outlet box. The scented air freshener should be moved IMO as it wouldn't work in the linked box, if you opt to keep it you can leave the biege tap box and it on it with another outlet in the tap box for the surge protector.

Yeah didn't mean any offense by any means. I just had a 55" and upgraded to a 65", but that just looked way smaller than I remember my 55 looking.

I've bought about 5 of these kits for throughout my place, https://www.amazon.com/Legrand-Wiremold-Raceways-Management-Channels/dp/B0015EDVVU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521236692&sr=8-3&keywords=cable+channel but you only need a tiny piece so that may be overkill. They work great though and are paintable to match your wall if that's an issue.

I got these from Amazon. They work well although opening them up to add or remove cables can be a bit stiff.


Also, the planters are from Target. They come with fake plants, but I replaced them with actual succulents.

something like this looks like what op used

Here are some Beyerdynamic Pads that fit. The Amazon customer review pictures have some instructions on how to fit them, and this Head-Fi forum post has some step-by-step instruction pictures as well. I put the pads on my M50's, and I have really liked how they feel. I still think they sound good, but as with most things YMMV.

The Beyerdynamic DT250 pads are also a solution, which for many are the go to pads for the M50.

I got the velour pads like other people suggested a year or so ago and love them.

Here's a link for purchase: http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-EDT250V-Headphone-Pads-Black/dp/B0016MF7W2

> it's a hobby where it's easy to get carried away with spending money if you have it.

I'm pretty sure that is the definition for the word 'hobby'. Just look at audiophile stuff. $850USD for a 3' HDMI cable?? The signal isn't even analogue, only encoded digital, so there's no way for it to degrade without not working at all.

Yeah, if you want a fuzzy picture you pleb.

HDMI cables just like Motherboards aren't something you go cheap with unless you're a moron that likes regret.

Get one of these and you wont regret it. Make sure to get the 4 year warranty unless you like feeling like a fucking tool.

Edit: Don't believe me? read this Q+A.

Question: We are talking 'digital' audio, correct? 1's and 0's ... not analogue audio that really benifits from serious quality??!!!!

Answer: This cable is such good quality that it supports the transferrence of 0's, 1's and 2's. Also it transports dark matter at beyond the speed of dark matter. So good in fact that CERN have scrapped the Hadron Collider and replaced it with one of these cables.

If I'm ever rich I'll buy this just because fuck it

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4/

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1387589925&sr=8-1&keywords=diamond+hdmi

Lmao read the reviews

In all serious though gold and silver are used in pretty much all computers. Gold does not oxidize like copper.

Is it this one?

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-5-Port-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=kinivo+hdmi+switch&link_code=qs&qid=1568653868&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6909317011&rnid=6909315011&s=audio-video-accessories&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=1-1

It says it switches inputs automatically. Can you verify that works with turning the minis on/off?

There are 5 types of connector

So long as the thunderbolt adapter you're using is DVI (not VGA), you will need a single-link DVI-D cable (or a dual-link DVI-D cable, the adapter won't support it but it will work)

I'm assuming your monitors are flat panels (since you can get old CRT glass screen monitors with DVI-A sockets.. these are analog and rare!).

DVI-D will work with Mini DisplayPort to DVI Adapter

DVI-A and DVI-I might work with Mini DisplayPort to VGA Adapter and a VGA to DVI-A but this will require you monitor to work in digital (which all modern flat screens do) as well as Analog (not all DVI sockets support this, you can tell if it has 4 pins around the blade slot)

Basically, if you have a VGA adapter with your mac, expect more problems with flat screens that only have DVI

There's two types of DVI connectors: DVI-D and DVI-I. Only DVI-I is capable of an analog signal, but it looks like your card has that connector (double check me on that). If so you just need a simple DVI-I to VGA adapter like this https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-DVI-Cable-Adapter-DVIVGAMF/dp/B000067SOH

Make sure it's DVI-I instead of DVI-D by looking at pics of the connectors online, they are slightly different. If its DVI-i there's no conversion necessary and no input lag introduced.

I use an ultra basic setup to connect my LSR305 to my desktop PC which does not have a dedicated sound card (motherboard audio jack only).

I plug a 3.5 mm to stereo RCA female into the motherboard's audio jack and then use these RCA male to 1/4" TS male cables to connect to the speakers.

I've set up numerous jenky make-it-work turntable-to-soundcard lines to sample so I'll try to give you a few options...

(1) Any decent turntable without a built in preamp (look at beginner turntable guide) and this could be new or used --> into a preamp (this is necessary for this setup) --> run RCA-to-1/4 lines into the back of the Apollo Twin (line 1 and line 2), this will keep your left and right channels separately. You need to make sure you can record into both at the same time. You could buy adaptors for your RCA line or a specific RCA-to-1/4 cable. Note: I'm giving you links to cheap ones.

• With this option you could probably buy a decent used turntable for about $100 and a decent preamp for $50-100.
  
  (2) Buy a turntable with a built in preamp and do the same set up without a dedicated preamp. So, it would go turntable with preamp on running RCA-to-1/4 cable straight into back of your soundcard. Best options for a new one would be the Audiotechnica LP120 which is about $300 or the Stanton T92 for about $250-300. I personally think the stanton is slightly better on its stats but not by much and the stanton doesn't come with a hardcover, which kind of sucks. However, the stock cartridge on the stanton (Stanton V500) is a DJ cartridge that can take more damage and you can stop it, start it, and back cue and not worry about damaging the stylus or your records. The stock cart of the LP120 (AT95E) is a much better listening cart but you cannot back cue anything or start or stop on the fly without damaging the stylus.
  
  (3) Buy a turntable with a USB connection and plug in straight into your computer or the USB port on your soundcard (Edit: just realized not all of the Apollo Twin versions have USB inputs, so this might not be feasible, unless you plug straight into your computer). You could pick up Audiotechnica LP120USB which is about $300 or the Stanton T92 for about $250-300. USB port on turntables do not give the best sound quality however and you would probably better to go with one of the other options.
  
  Overall, I think option 1 would be the cheapest route and be a good option if you eventually getting into vinyl as a medium for listening. Also, these three options are specially tailored to your setup and there are other ways to do this. The best quality for vinyl to digital is to have a nice soundcard on a desktop that has dedicated RCA inputs and then you don't have to use adaptors.

If you want to use that NAD with the speakers, here are the instructions.

1. Turn off the NAD
   
2. On the rear of the NAD is a set of metal jumper connecting "Pre out" and "main in": http://i.imgur.com/ilwyLlc.png - remove these
   
3. Use this RCA to 6.3mm TS cable
   
4. Connect cable from 3. to the output you just freed up that is labelled pre out.
   
   I would like to point out that using the NAD is less than optimal:
   
   
5. If all you're connecting is a computer, the volume control in the computer is a lot better
   
6. When connecting like this, you've just connected a device that uses a lot of power for no particularly good reason. Again, if all you're connecting is a computer, and all you really want is a volume knob, you'd be much better served by a Schiit Sys or Emotiva Control freak (You may need some additional cables for both) - both of these devices will eventually pay for themselves if you have an electricity bill to pay
   
7. The NAD is also an ancient device, and it's not uncommon that it's worn, dusted and actually causes a degradation in sound quality unless you do some work to restore it to prime state. In which case, you could just have gotten one of the two new volume controls from above.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-202-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O17/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522242911&sr=1-3&keywords=rca+to+1%2F4

I have refurbished / reconditioned or otherwise repaired just about every component in my theater. The KEF speakers are all same era and generation, plus or minus a few years.

Front Channels: KEF 103/4 Reference speakers - owner replaced foam surrounds on the internal push/pull woofers - and I refurbished the ferrofluid in the tweeters. $175 off craigslist

Center Channel: NOS (new old stock) KEF Model 100 - found on craigslist. Someone found it in their garage, sitting new in box for 20 years. Refurbished the tweeter (ferrofluid replacement). $60 off craigslist.

Surround Channels: KEF C55 speakers that I found at Goodwill for $20. Complete cleanup - ferrofluid treatment of tweeters. Great condition otherwise.

Rear Channel: KEF Model 90 "center channel" speaker - bought this before I found the Model 100. Roughly the same speaker, but smaller tweeter than the model 100. Tweeter refurbed, cleaned up inside and out. I went with a 6.1 configuration because my room wouldn't benefit much from 7.1 - and the window placement made that difficult. Mixing 7.1 down to 6.1 doesn't change much. $40 off Craigslist.

Subwoofer: PA-120 Premier Acoustics 12'' Subwoofer had this sub for 8 years now, and love it to pieces. Very punchy, very powerful, very affordable. Weighs a metric ton - and customer service was top notch. (Amp malfunctioned after 6 years - got a new one from them free of charge).

Surround AV Receiver: Marantz SR6008 receiver I bought for $200 on ebay because it was 'for parts/not working.' The HDMI1 output (there are two) was burned out. Bought a new HDMI board from Marantz for a hundred bucks and the thing is good as new.

Speaker Mounts: The left C55 surround and rear channel are on custom made speaker mounts - the rear is half custom - mounted to one of the speaker mounts I got from Amazon.

Projection Screen: Custom 105'' Screen Frame and made from a canibalized Da-Lite screen I got for free from work. (was hiding in the plenum when we purchased our office space.

Projector: Benq HT1075 - bought new, because it's already so cost effective. Found it on sale at Frys for $699 a year ago. Very happy with this little projector.

Theater/Home Automation: Home Assistant running on an iPad 3 in the theater room. The iPad was sitting in a drawer, not in use for at least a year, and found an OEM apple dock for $5 on ebay for when it's not in use. I can control my Smart Things devices (z-wave dimmer) - MiLight LED strips behind the screen, in the EXIT light, and the bulbs in the uplight/spotlights in the room, I also integrated Broadlink RM2 support for controlling cheap 433mhz outlet switches for the air purifier, popcorn machine, and whatever else I need to control.

Movie Posters: Marketing department had a bunch of these frames in storage from an old PR campaign. Tore out the foamcore inserts, found high res posters, and ordered them on this silk-like fabric directly from China for $9 a pop. They look incredible up close, almost lithograph-like.

RGB Lighting: Generic RGB Strips I bought for $5 a pop on price mistake with Milight RGB controllers. Milight 9W RGBW bulbs I got for $13 each in $15 brushed steel uplights from Lamps Plus. All controled with the Milight WiFi controller through Home Assistant.

Seating was transitioned from the living room when we bought new sofas - raised the rear seating on 10'' platform. 12GA Speaker wire from my local wire wholesaler (similar price to monoprice). Looking for some carpet options - and have a lead on a local seller of OC703 for acoustic panels.

It's come a long way in a year - here's a before and after - December 2015 and April 2016 -- not the most recent, obviously - but I'm very proud with how it's coming together.

My 2 cents for a $1500 budget Coffee Shop...

• Simple 4 Channel Pre-amp w/ Phono - $80
  
  
• Apple TV - $100 For your Airplay needs.
  
  
• FM Tuner - $100 (You will need one eventually)
  
  
• AT Turntable - $230 Vintage would also work so look used to save some cash.
  
  
• RCA Distribution Amp - $30
  
  
• Dayton 12 Channel Amp - $500 Expandable later but I assume you will use 8 channels to start.
  
  
• Micca Motion MB42x I recommend four pair (8 speakers) - $320. Even a small coffee shop will be better suited with more, quieter speakers. Demo'd Here
  
  
• Speaker Mounting Brackets - $140 I HIGHLY recommend using the screw holes on the clamps to secure the speakers with small ~1" wood screws. THEN Secure the bracket to the wall with a safety strap. Liability covered.
  
  I recommend mounting these brackets up-side down so you can aim the speakers down at costumers. (presuming you have high enough ceilings to support it)
  
  $80+100+100+230+30+500+320+140=$1500 ON THE NOSE!

I just dropped $30 on the [Brainwavz Hybrid Pads] (http://www.amazon.ca/Brainwavz-Replacement-Hybrid-Memory-Earpad/dp/B00ZGGG3KY/ref=pd_cp_23_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=06BKT2GEM26M0CDDR1WR). The price for the Shures in Canada were $20, I love the velour on my HD598s so I just pulled the trigger on the Hybrids instead, thanks for your help though :)

Its on sale for $20 right now if anyone is interested.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016XBGWAQ/

I know it doesn't help you now but, Amazon sells the Steam Link. I can almost guarantee that your customer service experience will be better with them.

http://www.amazon.com/Steam-Link-Pc/dp/B016XBGWAQ

Your address probably wasn't even wrong, in the US, this happens to me with Fedex all the time just because they don't have time to come to my house and don't want to have to take responsibility for missing their deadline.

Steam Controller and Steam Link price matched at Amazon. Helps defer shipping costs with Prime

Steam Controller $34.99 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016KBVBCS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Steam Link $34.99 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

The offer is still available, just check under other sellers and makes sure to order the one from Amazon.com.

Honestly, if you want a meaningfully better 2.1 setup than the Z-2300 then you should go for a pair of bookshelf speakers, a subwoofer, and an amp.

Personally, I would even go for a AV Receiver rather than an amp.

One example of a "budget" setup I would recommend costs $406 and the parts are linked below:

• $80 Bookshelf speakers
  
  
• $150 AV Receiver
  
  
• $168 Subwoofer
  
  
• $8 Speaker Wire
  
  You can definitely save some money by buying parts used. Your local Craiglists will probably have deals on old subwoofers or AV Receivers.
  
  $400 definitely sounds pricey, but it's no more expensive than "premium" 2.1 computer speaker sets. For example Razor charges $500 for their top of the line 2.1 speakers. Those speakers are no better than the Pro Media 2.1. They just come with pretty lights on them.

I have my Switch, 360, and ps3 hooked up to my monitor using an HDMI switch, and an Audio Extractor. This works super seamlessly, I just turn on whatever console I like and the Hdmi switches and I am able to get digital audio out automatically. I use a headset mainly, one of my friends have a logitech z213 speakers and they sound pretty nice! Hope that helps!

I bought these a few years back. Turned me into a huge Sennheiser fan boy. The comfort and durability alone are notable. Add-in that the sound quality brings you into the realm of audiophile-grade and you have a huge reason to buy whenever they go on sale.

I have the 558 in my laptop bag for gaming on the go, a pair of HD518 for use with the Vive, and the Massdrop HD6xx on my main PC setup.

I've been wanting to grab another set for work, was hoping to grab the 598 and "complete the set." But this is tempting.

-----

I use the following replacement cables with mine:

• https://www.amazon.com/gp/B01IRCXC9S/
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAKBHKM/
  
  Along with this compact budget DAC/Amp for the 558 (Schiit Stack for the HD6xx):
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009WN7QT4/
  
  

I love the switch as well! However, I don't think anything is immune to criticism, and Nintendo has made a lot of weird decisions that are a step back IMHO.

Anyway, check this out, it may help with your HDMI situation. I will say it does get out of sync when you dock the Switch because of how the Switch "wakes up" when docked but does not necessarily send video output. If you leave it docked, you can basically switch from PS4 and Switch depending on which device is awake at the moment.

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522417904&sr=1-3&keywords=kinivo+hdmi+switch

I've had a bunch of thr cheap hdmi switchers and they all seem to die after 9 months after having issues with specific devices not working (ps3 and wiiu) from the start. I bought this one reccomemeded in a home theater subreddit and it has taken everything I've thrown at it with no issues: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049SCB2Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't need to use the remote often as the auto switching is solid. I put my chromecast on my tv and roku on the switch as running more than one always on device screws with the autoswitching.

Get a Harmony anyway, they are super awesome.

The major networks broadcast over-the-air as well as through cable. If you dont have cable but want to watch the shows, you would need an HD antenna attached to your television or TV tuner card in your PC. There is no monthly fee or cost beyond the antenna unless you want to add a DVR of your own.

What Aeroe does is moves the location of the antenna to their own data center and permits you to stream that same content over the interwebs to you PC or laptop. They justify the monthly expense by offering DVR service and "leasing" you the antenna.

I'm looking at the specs of your TV, and it DOES have an audio output.

Just use the headphones output! If your Home Theater has an analog input, you can just buy a cheap adapter and connect from your TV's 3.5mm output to your sound system's RCA input.

You'll just need an adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66

Hopefully you can find $2 more. I have this $22 splitter and it works fine.

http://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/

No worries, buddy. Happy to help. You don't need to worry about a preamp just yet, as your turntable has one built in. Just make sure you have the selector switch on the back of the unit set to "line" rather than "phono" and you're all set. As for connecting the speakers to the receiver, I managed to find a pic of the rear connections on the U310. It looks like they use spring clips to connect, so you're going to have to use bare wire.

First thing you'll need is a spool of speaker wire. I've had good luck with the Amazon Basics stuff, and it's about as cheap as decent wire gets. You'll need to strip a bit of the jacket off of each wire on each end. I do it by hand, but you might want to try a wire stripper if you're not comfortable free-handing things. Once you've exposed the bare wire, simply give each side a quick twist to secure them into separate threads and insert each thread into the back of the speaker, depressing the spring clip to allow the wire to fit into the hole and releasing it to bite down on the wire. As for the back of the amp, the procedure's the same if it has spring clips. If it has binding posts like the SMSL I linked earlier, you'll want to unscrew them a bit, wrap the bare wire around the exposed post, and tighten the post heads back down to create a nice, tight seal.

One word of warning on the off chance you've never done anything like this before. Remember to connect your positive (red) terminals on your speakers to your positive terminals on your amp, and your negative (black) to negative. The speaker wire makes that pretty easy, as one channel is marked with a little white line so you'll always know what's going where. Additionally, make sure your amp's left output is wired to your left speaker and the right to the right. Simple stuff, but it's easy to miss if this is your first time.

https://www.amazon.com/NewFantasia-Replacement-Upgrade-Sennheiser-Headphones/dp/B00KAKBHKM/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1542952049&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=Newfantasia+hd+598+cable

I have that one. Doesnt get tangled, sounds fine.

Get this:
http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Audio-upgrade-Sennheiser-Headphones/dp/B00KAKBHKM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419909124&sr=8-1&keywords=hd+598+cable

If you have a phone case or something that restricts the 3.5mm jack, get this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement-cable-with-Remote-Mic-connect-iphone-to-Sennheiser-HD598-HD558-HD518-/261280639444?pt=US_MP3_Player_Cables_Adapters&var=&hash=item3cd58a29d4

Give this cable a try.

I'm really enjoying the new Metallica album. The mastering/production is quite good. Death Magnetic borders on unlistenable with my 598's so I appreciate that they didn't make that atrocious mistake again.

Happy to be able to enjoy another Metallica album. Now if I can just stop wanting another pair of headphones...


Edit to include a link to the replacement senn cable for those curious.


1.2m Replacement Audio upgrade Cable For Sennheiser HD598 HD558 HD518 Headphones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAKBHKM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dYfmybV2RS73V

I got these a few weeks ago and the cable it comes with is pretty long...

Got these to replace the original cable, they work great.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAKBHKM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this. It works for both my Sennheisers and M50x. Although, you'll probably have the same issue as it's only very slightly smaller.

I would recommend an adapter like this. Just leave it on the end of your cable all the time and you won't notice it.

The Anchor - THE ORIGINAL Under-Desk Headphone Stand Mount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P31BMHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yXUMzbN8F3BPW

I personally use this and really love it. Saves some desk space, too!

https://www.amazon.com/Anchor-ORIGINAL-Under-Desk-Headphone-Stand/dp/B00P31BMHG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1525891693&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=anchor+headphone&psc=1

Here's what I've been using. So far so good.

LPT: Never, ever buy those shitty Logitech/Sony/Creative/whatever 2.1 speaker systems on Amazon for your PC

Instead, buy a cheap amp, some speaker wire and head to your local Goodwill to find some bookshelf speakers.

Boom. You now have high quality sound for under $50 that will blow anything you can find at that price point on Amazon out of the water.

Every Goodwill I've been in has had bookshelf speakers for sale, and if you're real lucky you can find some excellent equipment for dirt cheap. I found a pair of these bad boys for freaking $13 last weekend

Don't use the guitar amp for this project. If you're being cheap get the Lepai and some speaker wire. Add this adapter in too and you're out the door for like $35.

Amp:
http://www.parts-express.com/lepai-lp-2020a-tripath-class-t-hi-fi-audio-mini-amplifier-with-power-supply--310-300?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla

Speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B009IUIV4A/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&srs=3097377011&ie=UTF8&qid=1472956289&sr=8-1-catcorr&keywords=bookshelf+speakers

Wire:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0WDQ/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&srs=3097377011&ie=UTF8&qid=1472956231&sr=8-2-catcorr&keywords=speaker+wire

Roughly $88 for the combo, excluding wire

edit* You'll also want one of these to connect to your computer:
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=5597&gclid=CPrq4dXW9M4CFdQ2gQodeugApg

Surely my friend.

For those wondering what you'll need to get this setup, here's the other items I chose to purchase:

Table: Audio Technia 60 non blue tooth edition

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT-LP60-Automatic-Belt-Drive-Turntable/dp/B002GYTPAE

Speakers:
Micca MB42 Bookshelf Speakers With 4-Inch Carbon Fiber Woofer and Silk Dome Tweeter (Black, Pair)

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42-Bookshelf-Speakers-With-4-Inch-Carbon-Fiber-Woofer-and-Silk-Dome-Tweeter-Black-Pair/dp/B009IUIV4A/ref=cm_cr_dp_mb_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8


Speaker wire:
AmazonBasics 16-Gauge Speaker Wire - 100 Feet
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-100-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=cm_cr_dp_mb_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8


Mini-Amplifier:
Seeduck Lepy lp 2020a Class-D Hi-Fi Audio Mini Amplifier with Power Supply Lepy Amplifier LP2020A
https://www.amazon.com/Seeduck-Lepy-lp-2020a-Class-D-Hi-Fi-Audio-Mini-Amplifier-with-Power-Supply-Lepy-Amplifier-LP2020A/dp/B01HRR5AWQ/ref=cm_cr_dp_mb_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8

It was about $230 all together from amazon.

Sure you can piece something together, but it won't be recommended to purchase more than your main left and right speakers at your sub $350 budget. You can position yourself to add to it down the line by purchasing an affordable 5.1 home theater receiver. You can check accessories4less for decently priced refurbished units. Plenty of people around these parts have used them and they seem to be pretty good.

Something like this Denon should be $170 after shipping. Add in a few bucks for speaker wire and spend the rest on speakers.

I would say spend the rest on a pair of used/open box Polk S15 speakers. They're the new kids on the block that are fairly attractive, offer good performance for the money, and are at heavy discounts used quite often.

To that setup you can add a BIC F12 if you search your local craigslist, or once you have the money be on the lookout for the Dayton SUB1200 to go on sale for $135 on parts-express. After the sub your next addition would be the Polk S30 center channel that can be found for $130. After that come your surrounds which you don't have to spend as much moeny on. You'd either buy the matching Polk S10 or something cheaper.

Yeah it's a little more effort but it's fun to learn about and it's pretty modular. Plus decent speakers will last you as long as you want. The same can't be said for a proprietary system like that Logitech. Outside of bass bloat, even the base left+right speaker and receiver will sound better than the logitech. Once you add a sub it's no contest.

Edit: Something like the JBL B17 are also a good buy right now at $150. For a 7" woofer in a ported cabinet that goes down to 55hz I would expect them to be easier to drive than their 87db sensitivity though, that's interesting.

IMO in your home, it doesn't really matter. If you're running like 200 feet, then maybe it would be an minor issue. Everyone overthinks this crap for what, a $200 pair of speakers? If you've spent $14,000 on speakers, then sure analyze the hell out of it, otherwise you'll never tell the difference. If you crack your speaker open you're going to find (assuming there's a crossover) plenty of wiring that's far thinner than speaker wire. I buy this 16g from Amazon and have no issues at all with it.

Okay, you need some speaker wire (I'd recommend 16 gauge 50 or 100 feet like this) and some RCA cables. You can probably find decent cheap RCA cables at a thrift store.

Connect the turntable RCA plugs to the PHONO input jacks on the back of the receiver and connect the ground wire to the SIGNAL GND screw beneath the PHONO jacks. The white plug is left channel and the red one is right channel. Similarly, connect the CD player with an RCA cable from the OUT jacks on the back of the CD player to the CD IN jacks on the back of the receiver. CD players don't require a ground wire.

Cut some equal lengths of speaker wire and strip about 1/2" of the plastic insulator from both ends like this. Connect the stripped part of the wire with the white stripe to the FRONT SPEAKERS red clip on the back of your receiver, and the wire without a stripe to the black clip. Connect these wires to two of the small speakers. Make sure to connect white stripe to red clip and no stripe to black clip on the backs of the speakers. You should have sound now left and right.

You can connect the other two small speakers to the SURROUND SPEAKERS clips if you want to, but those are primarily used for movies.

What does the back of your sub-woofer look like?

Edit: Here is a link to the manual

Those are passive speakers requiring separate amplification, which the Mac doesn't provide.

You could use something like the SMSL SA-50. (I need to make a macro for that sentence.):

https://smile.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/

A cable like this from the Mac to the amp:

https://smile.amazon.com/Hosa-CMR-206-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O3B

Speaker wire from the amp to the speakers:

https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y

The turntable has a built-in preamp, so you do not need one. You will however need a receiver and speaker wire.

Or you can return the speakers and get a set of powered monitors. The powered monitors could be connected directly to the turntable. You will have to adjust the volume using the controls on the speakers.

Buy 14 or 16 AWG. It's just standard every day speaker wire you need. Nothing special. 18 would be fine too if you've already got it. If not, this is good.

If you're after fancy looking stuff, I just picked up a set of these. and they are beautiful.

Amazon Basics (http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y/) and Monoprice (http://www.monoprice.com/Category?c_id=102&cp_id=10239) make good, cheap speaker wire.

Good choice on the speaker. Those Chanes are amazing values: http://www.cnet.com/news/the-149-chane-a1rx-c-speaker-is-almost-too-good-to-be-true/ The tower version also won a shootout among $1000 speakers with some formidable opposition.

The next step down for subwoofers is the NXG BAS 500 (IMO the best subwoofer under $300): http://www.radioshack.com/nxg-nx-bas-500-12-500-watt-powered-subwoofer/55058551.html#.VIm1SjHF_T8 review here: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/speaker-subwoofer-reviews/67178-nxg-nx-bas-500-subwoofer-review.html

However, they sell like hot cakes and they're out of stock everywhere (Radioshack and Amazon are out of them). No idea when they'll come back into stock.

A good option for less than $200 is the BIC F12 and will save you some money: http://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-F12-475-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0015A8Y5M

Get yourself a nice little Amp like an SMSL SA-50, a 3.5mm aux cable to connect your TV's headphone out to the amp, and some 16 gauge speaker wire to connect amp to speakers. Bob's your uncle.

IF money is type, you can go with a cheaper amp, but the first one I mentioned is nicer unit that you can keep when you upgrade to a TV with an optical out.

Smsl amp ($52). If you REALLY want to go cheap you can get search for a lepai amp on amazon. Easily distorts but it works on the tightest of budgets.

Dayton speakers ($50.) (Lesser regular b652 for only $30)

Speaker wire ($11)

Then you will need an rca cable and a way to strip the wire. Most people have one lying around but they can easily be found at any local store. This will crush a pc speaker setup and you will have much more fun. The sidebar has additional options you need to check out too. I'm not sure what will be affected by you being in the UK.

Yeah just speaker wire and an amp.

This is a good 4 channel amp: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07537PW98/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

and some wire: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LW0W5Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For cords/wires you will need a RCA to 3.5mm cable something like this to connect your amp to your pc. You will also need 3 speaker cables such as these 1 for your amp to sub and assuming your sub will have a high level input and output, you will connect the other 2 cables to the sub and out to the speakers.

You could also make your own speaker cables as well which is a little cheaper by using this

For sub wise, I would consider a Dayton audio sub 800 or 1000 as a start.

Hi!

A friend of mine recently bought the Dayton B652-AIR, which sound phenomenal for the price. They're on sale right now for $50 from Parts Express. I haven't heard the basic B652, but the reviews seem to indicate that the AIR models are worth the extra money. They have a better crossover (internal circuitry) and an upgraded tweeter that's supposed to provide smoother treble and more clarity.

Second, you're going to need an amplifier to drive those speakers. Your previous system had a built-in amp. I recommend this little guy which is a barebones amplifier that produces nice clean sound and has a very small footprint and a reasonable price.

It won't amplify your headphones, though.

Something like this receiver would cover all your bases-- provide power to your speakers and your headphones as well.

If I were you, I'd just use an analog cable to attach my source (computer?) to the receiver.

Oh, and you'll need some speaker cable to connect the speakers to the receiver.

Do you mean splitter (view your PS4 on multiple screens) or switcher (switch between your PS4 and other HDMI devices connected to one screen)?

I'm just not sure why many people would need a three-way HDMI splitter for their PS4....

If you're looking for a switcher, I've been using this one for almost 5 years. If you want something under $20, this one seems to have good reviews.

Got this guy set up just recently; pretty happy with it for the consoles I have hooked up.

Kinivo 4K 30hz + 1080p 60hz for 3,299₹ (proper seller, with warranty, Appario Retail) - Amazon link

Kinivo 4K 60hz for 6,289₹ (not an official seller, no guarantee or warranty) - Amazon link

I've had good results with Kinivo HDMI switches and Harmony remotes. I haven't used the UHD ones, but the FHD ones work great.

Kinivo FHD HDMI switches

Kinivo 301BN (3x1)

Kinivo 501BN (5x1)

Kinivo UHD HDMI switches

Kinivo K300 (3x1)

Kinivo K500 (5x1)

I use this one. Switches automatically as well as with the included remote. Had it about a year, works great.

Kinivo 501BN Premium 5 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xQTfvb00CX835

For more modern consoles you would need a HDMI switch. Same concept, but different connection type.

I splurged and got a little pricier one: http://amzn.com/B0049SCB2Y

I was going to get a cheap 3 input one, but the 3 input from this brand wasn't much more. And then once I had that it wasn't much more for the 5 input. I too had three devices and one input, so I decided to get the 5 input switcher in case I added a device in the future. Now I'm glad I did since I'll be adding a chrome cast.

I've only had it for a few weeks so I can't give you a long term review, but so far it's worked great. I just have my Wii U and PS3 plugged into it right now and it automatically switches between the two. I don't think it will work with a Roku though, because the always on screensaver thing will make the switcher think it's always playing something. It comes with a remote control to switch manually. My TV has 3 inputs so I'll be putting the chromecast in one, Roku in one, and the switcher in the other for all my gaming systems and cable box.

Help from the more knowledgeable would be appreciated. I live in zip 23508--here's an AntennaWeb map of the area.

I've got a non-amplified [Mohu Leaf antenna] (http://www.amazon.com/Mohu-Leaf-Paper-Thin-Indoor-Antenna/dp/B004QK7HI8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1405344490&sr=8-5&keywords=antenna) mounted in a first-floor window facing south. The antenna is connected via a 25-foot good quality coax to a Tivo box.

My reception is terrible. Lots of pixilation and audio dropouts.

My research led me to think that the Mohu Leaf was an adequate device for my situation. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

Save more and drop cable completely. I promise you won't miss it between Netflix and Hulu. You could also get something like this if you find yourself missing broadcast channels or the news. One time purchase, and it's free TV from then on! Plus, over the air signals are actually of higher quality than what your cable provider compresses and sends to you.

I live right outside Baltimore and have used one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Mohu-MH-110583-Antenna-Premium-Connectors/dp/B004QK7HI8

It works very well and the picture is great.

You can use this site to figure out the best place to put your antenna based on the direction the stations are coming from
http://disablemycable.com/station-finder/

There are outdoor antennas as well that you could get but in my opinion the Leaf indoor is the easiest

Here's an indoor HD antenna:

http://www.amazon.com/Paper-Thin-Leaf-Indoor-Antenna/dp/B004QK7HI8

I cut the cord 6 months ago, went from paying $140 a month to $35, I got rid of everything except internet. It was a no brainer, can't believe it took me that long to get rid of cable.

For television, I got the Paper Thin Leaf anthena from amazon and it works perfect.

http://www.amazon.com/Paper-Thin-Leaf-Indoor-Antenna/dp/B004QK7HI8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333694970&sr=8-1

We only have over air signal, and we swear by our Leaf. It's inexpensive, looks great, has the strongest signal of the 5 we tried, and gives us lots of channels. We watch about 20 channels, and more are available that we just didn't program.

I'm at Camelback and the I17 and only have a little trouble with distant channels during severe storms.

I just did a ton of research on which TV antenna would work best in the north/east sides of Atlanta. My $20 Target version wasn't cutting it and I wanted something a little bit better.

This one comes out on top. Apparently you should stay away from amplified antenna if it's kept in doors, as the amplification can actually keep it from getting more channels. Amplification is better for outdoor antenna and a money-making gimmick for indoors. With this Mohu one, I jumped to getting almost 90 channels from the 50 or so I was poorly getting with my cheapie one.

We have one similar to this. Mohu Leaf 30 TV Antenna, Indoor, 40 Mile Range, Original Paper-thin, Reversible, Paintable, 4K-Ready HDTV, 10 Foot Detachable Cable, Premium Materials for Performance, USA Made, MH-110583 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QK7HI8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ej8-Ab87CRMHE

This is what most people are using successfully for OTA in the US:
http://amzn.com/B00I2ZBD1U

I recommend this antenna: http://amzn.com/B004QK7HI8

Edit: Oops, you already have an antenna. Oh well, Ill leave it there for others.

Yep. You need this. https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66

Use headphone out on the back of your PC into the AUX port on the receiver. Start with the PC volume low and the receiver volume low.

PC: Green Audio Out 3.5mm Port -> Surround System: Audio In
You'll need the right cable for it though. Example

However, that might only be standard audio.
(I never messed with out style audio, I just use ToSLink for my audio.)

So the magni 3 has rca inputs.

So my set up is computer --> optical --> smsl 793 dac --> rca --> magni 3 --> headphones.

The smsl 793 is actually a dac/amp combo but I found it underwhelming with my 6XX, luckily it has a line out if you only want to use the dac portion. I've had it for years but they were only pushing 32 and 80 ohm headphones before and would really struggle to reach listening volume with 300ohms.

However a dac is not necessary. You could very easily take the 3.5mm jack into a split rca into the magni, then hook your headphones to that. You'd just need this cable between your pc and the amp.

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66

Many people recommend a dac simply because it can make an improvement in sound, will help avoid electrical interference since the signal is over USB or SPDIF (Coax & Optical), and can help if you have a noise floor issue (hiss) and jitter.

Most modern dacs in computers are fairly decent, and the the built in amps are not terrible for headphones up to 32-80 ohm range. But once you get into those high ohm, you have to get an amp.

I think you nailed it.... I'd bet that's a headphone output port on the stereo system... most stereos use L/R (red and white plugs) RCA jacks for audio input... try those stereo ports in the back with a 3.5mm to (L/R) RCA cable...

This cable

Edit: Easy test with zero monies spent... cut the stereos fm radio on and plug headphone in... if you get audio out of the headphones it's an output jack.

No problem. I have my living room PC connected to both a 75" tv and a 23" monitor. Here are a few headaches I went through you can avoid:

1- Dual monitors only work well in duplicate mode.

2- CableCARD and dual monitors don't work well thanks to the fuckwits that implemented DRM. If you're using dual monitors (say, with a desk near your tv), use a splitter such as this one which enables use of both screens.

3- If you're going to use WMC as a movie jukebox, use these instructions to enable playback of .mkv files.

4- You can use Remote Media Center to stream all video, music, pics and even live tv from your home to any Android/iOS/browser, regardless of where you are, but you'll need a minimum of 2.2GHz dual core and 8GB of RAM (basically any these days current PC outside of an Atom or AMD E-series processor-equipped one), along with a web connection with no less than 5MB/s upstream for it to work effectively.

5- You'll never find a truly-perfect all-in-one remote. I have a full keyboard and mouse at the desk, and use this as a couch keyboard/mouse combo, and this as a remote. This remote isn't available yet in the U.S., but seems to perform the function of all 3 (remote/KB/mouse). Stay away from cheap all-in-ones from amazon. I've gone through 8 of them.

a Splitter, takes the same HDMI signal and sends it to 2 Output devices.

a Switch, Takes Multiple HDMI signals and will let you switch between them to go to 1 HDMI input.

you seem to be a little confused about what exactly you need.

The thing you are presently using will definitely not work. It's the "wrong way". You have 3 Inputs and 1 output. The goal of the splitter you are trying to use is to plug multiple devices in 1 tv. For example, plugging 1 Xbox one, 1 Xbox 360 and a Blueray player in the 3 "Inputs", and the "Outputs" goes in the TV. Meant to be used with TV that doesn't have enough HDMI input to plug all your stuff.
You will need something more like this: http://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=sr_1_5?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1450792526&sr=1-5&keywords=hdmi+splitter or any splitter that has 1 input and 2 output. Check for that controller range tho to make sure it will work out.

Kvm stands for Keyboard, Video, Mouse and it would do exactly what you're looking for. However it is somewhat pricy.

If you don't mind pressing 3 buttons you could buy an HDMI merger, and have that feed into a splitter, and have a USB splitter.

Basically you'd need these: (Merger) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pPfXzbWDY8YB9

(Splitter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tQfXzbWGDZ84V

(USB Switch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JX3Q28Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jTfXzbJRTASXT

And about 4 HDMI cables.

All in all it should cost you about $100. It's ghetto and would look silly but it will work.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HXFARS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what you need. I have it. It works great.

I use one of these to strip HDCP for recording/streaming with PSTV:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HXFARS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a splitter and it works great. Mine is powered, so I suggest that as well. Heads up, the active monitor gets a 2-3 second black out when you power up the 2nd TV that is receiving the signal. Not a big deal, but can mess you up if playing and don't realize it's coming. Here's the one I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HXFARS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
edit: spehlinng

HDMI Splitter

Capture Card

Hi, I actually had the exact same dilemma as you and about a month ago went for a 2.0 setup.

In the past I've tried a variety of computer speakers and nothing cut it. I never tried a soundbar, but I am super happy with my 2.0 setup.

So here is my $200 set up (big thanks to Zeos for helping me learn and pick out the parts):

$109 manufacturer refurbished Denon AVR 1513 receiver:

http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavr1513/denon-avr-1513-5.1ch-home-theater-receiver-3d-ready/1.html?_escaped_fragment_=specifications#!specifications

$80 Micca MB42x bookshelf speakers:

http://amzn.to/188rnsc

$9.43 Speaker wire:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=YEA53M3RQ14Z&coliid=I31E8R7IOVMB4E

This is the wire stripper I bought but it is no longer available for prime so I would get a different one:

http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-2078305-Vise-Grip-5-Inch-Stripper/dp/B000JNLUQ6/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1394413512&sr=8-13&keywords=wire+stripper

Maybe get this one (but any will probably be fine):

http://www.amazon.com/Gardner-GS-40-Milwaukee-Clipper-Stripper/dp/B00004WLJX/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1396936022&sr=1-11&keywords=wire+stripper

Lastly, banana plugs for the wires. Optional, but nice to have ($10.96):

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-High-Quality-Copper-Speaker/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394413889&sr=8-2&keywords=banana+plug

Total: ~ $250 with tax and shipping and whatnot.

One last piece of advice:

I originally tried the popular Lepai amp and hated it. I just couldn't get the volume I wanted from it.

I am going to be using this article plus my own personal experiences in the 7 years I have been collecting: https://www.techradar.com/news/best-turntables


Turntable: Audio-Technica ATLP120USB Direct Drive Professional USB Turntable Price $229.00 (On Sale at the time of this writing) it comes with a built in Pre-Amp so you are good to go. This is one I have been eyeballing myself.


Amplifier: Yamaha R-S202BL Stereo Receiver Price $149.95 (On sale at the time I am writing this). This is the one I personally use and I love it. It has multiple channels so you can allow for growth. For example I got a stereo cd player at the local thrift store I am trying to upgrade. I just need RCA Cables to hook it up which I do.


Speakers: https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-T15-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B002RJLHB8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 Price $49.98 (Sale at the time I am writing this)


Wire from speakers to Amp: AmazonBasics 100ft 16-Gauge Audio Stereo Speaker Wire Cable - 100 Feet Price $13.49


Headphone Adapter (Trust me you'll need this if you want to listen to music via headphones) Adapter Price: $7.99


Subtotal: $450.41‬ plus taxes. I think you have wiggle room on the speakers, but I searched for high rated ones. If you need help setting up your Turntable and Stereo please feel free to reach out and I can help! :D

These are the pads I purchased.

> doesn't cover the ears that well at all

You could always get better pads. It should decrease the shallowness as well. Youd be surprised at the quality increase from new pads. Try the brainwavz hybrid pads they will fit right on the m50x.

Thanks I really like the SS of my M40x and don't want to lose out on any more bass. Got these hybrid ones for 6 bucks more and canceled my previous order.

Taking a look, you may or may not be aware of this

You may consider a 525gb mx300 for your ssd but other than that it looks really good for what you want.

https://www.amazon.com/Steam-Link-Pc/dp/B016XBGWAQ

Here is my build list formated for reddit

Group | Name | Price | Quantity | Total | Link
--- | --- | --- | --- | --- | ---
Pc | (Everything Inside the case) | | | |
$1,601.62 | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $347.00 | 1 | $347.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012M8LXQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Cooler Master Hyper D92 54.8 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler | $44.80 | 1 | $44.80 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NXLYE4G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $171.49 | 1 | $171.49 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012N6EW6G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $129.99 | 1 | $129.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OTJZTZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.99 | 1 | $97.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAJ412U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Hitachi HD​S723020BLA​642 | $58.00 | 3 | $174.00 | EBay
| EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $459.99 | 1 | $459.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I60OGUK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| EVGA 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $90.39 | 1 | $90.39 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYK1CC6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| XFX AMD Radeon HD 5450 1GB | $29.99 | 2 | $59.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005IUW7YE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| PWM Female to 4 x PWM Male Computer Case Fan Splitter | $6.50 | 2 | $13.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DYQRFY6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Sabrent 2.5" SSD & SATA Hard Drive to Desktop 3.5" | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UN550AC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 80MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 2 | $0.00 |
| 92MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 4 | $0.00 |
Monitors | | | | |
$744.66 | Seiki Pro SM28UTR 28-Inch 4K UHD 3840x2160 | $195.69 | 1 | $195.69 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013XWQF28/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| AOC e2460Sd 24-Inch Widescreen LED Monitor | $142.99 | 3 | $428.97 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C99MUHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Dell 17" 5:4 | $30.00 | 4 | $120.00 | EBay
Cables | | | | |
$137.77 | Cable Matters Gold Plated DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable 10 Feet | $11.99 | 1 | $11.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H3Q5E0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Cable Matters Active DisplayPort to DVI Male to Female Adapter | $19.99 | 2 | $39.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT01TO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| DVI Male to Female 90 Degree Adapter Connector | $4.43 | 3 | $13.29 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008X0ZJZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 15ft 28AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable - Black | $10.47 | 3 | $31.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2760&seq=1&format=2
| 15ft Super VGA M/M | $5.69 | 4 | $22.76 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10201&cs_id=1020101&p_id=3622&seq=1&format=2
| 15ft USB 2.0 A Male to A Female Extension | $1.87 | 5 | $9.35 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030304&p_id=5435&seq=1&format=2
| 25ft hdmi cable | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SKVMHI4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Desk Accesseries | | | | |
$263.49 | Perixx PX-5200 Cherry MX Blue | $72.91 | 1 | $72.91 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NY45NCY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Logitech C310 Webcam | $31.93 | 1 | $31.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LVZO8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Lapel Mics | $6.50 | 1 | $6.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJOIHE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| FingerPrint Reader | $12.58 | 1 | $12.58 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHHP7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Mouse Pad | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GB0IF50/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Headset Func HS260 | $79.99 | 1 | $79.99 | https://www.amazon.com/FUnc-FUNC-HS-260-1ST-fUnc-HS-260/dp/B00HH3H83U
| Altec ACS 54 - Speaker | $0.00 | 1 | $0.00 |
| Logitech G700S | $50.59 | 1 | $50.59 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BFOEY3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Audio Accesseries | | | | |
$58.33 | BEHRINGER MICROAMP HA400 | $24.99 | 1 | $24.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KIPT30/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 5-Pack 6.35mm Male to 3.5mm Female Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAQD4YA/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3.5mm Male to 2 x 3.5mm Female Splitter Cable | $3.99 | 1 | $3.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081ZBNI4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Coupler 3.5 mm Female - 3.5 mm Female Stereo or Mono | $3.93 | 1 | $3.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O4N/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3 feet Slim 3.5mm Stereo Audio Cable - M/M | $2.71 | 2 | $5.42 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G3UK5C/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3-Feet 3.5mm Stereo Male to Female Extension Cable, 5-Pack | $12.01 | 1 | $12.01 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWOJLSS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lighting | | | | |
$86.88 | Studio Designs Swing Arm Lamp Black | $24.75 | 2 | $49.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2S7MHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Lutron TT-300NLH-BL Credenza Lamp Dimmer Black | $14.83 | 1 | $14.83 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00024BJZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Triple Outlet Swivel Adapter, White | $3.27 | 1 | $3.27 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HJBENG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Daylight LED Light Bulb 15W | $9.64 | 2 | $19.28 | https://www.walmart.com/ip/Great-Value-GVRLA1850ND-Great-Value-LED-15W-A19-Light-Bulb/38596922
Cable Managment | | | | |
$18.81 | 100 Velcro Ties | $5.00 | 2 | $10.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 100 Releasable cable ties | $2.47 | 3 | $7.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10520&cs_id=1052012&p_id=5795&seq=1&format=2
| Cable Clip nais | $0.70 | 2 | $1.40 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10520&cs_id=1052006&p_id=5834&seq=1&format=2
Power | | | | |
$53.13 | Monster MP AV 750 Audio Video PowerCenter | $18.99 | 1 | $18.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ETIKH8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| AmazonBasics 6-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip 2-Pack | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TP1BWMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3 Outlet Single-Tap Wall Tap | $4.00 | 2 | $8.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XQORTO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 15ft 16AWG Power Cord Cable | $5.20 | 1 | $5.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022801&p_id=5287&seq=1&format=2
| 10ft 18AWG Right Angle Power Cord Cabl | $2.65 | 3 | $7.95 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022809&p_id=7677&seq=1&format=2
Network | | | | |
$33.98 | TP-LINK 8-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch | $22.99 | 1 | $22.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EVGIYG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 5-Pack, Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable in Blue 3 Feet | $10.99 | 1 | $10.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C2B81K6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Monitor Mount | | | | |
$215.27 | Arm wall mount | $17.54 | 3 | $52.62 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=12232&seq=1&format=2
| Top wall mount bracket | $4.80 | 4 | $19.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=3005&seq=1&format=2
| Center Monitor Mount | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=4564&seq=1&format=2
| 2x8 | $7.47 | 3 | $22.41 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Top-Choice-Common-2-in-x-8-in-x-10-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-7-25-in-x-10-ft-Lumber/4082916
| 2x4 | 2.55 | 1 | $2.55 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-2-in-x-4-in-x-8-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-3-5-in-x-8-ft-Stud/1000074211
| 3" clamp | $5.98 | 6 | $35.88 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-3-in-Clamp/50214643
| 4" Hinge | $2.81 | 2 | $5.62 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-4-in-H-Oil-Rubbed-Bronze-Interior-Exterior-Mortise-Door-Hinge/4772785
| Wood Screws | $9.00 | 1 | $9.00 | Lowes
| Assorted brackets/hardware | $25.00 | 1 | $25.00 | Lowes
| Case Rack Mount | $35.00 | 1 | $35.00 | EBay
Misc | | | | |
$35.97 | Steam Link | $19.99 | 1 | $19.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Bluetooth Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | GRANDCOW Bluetooth 4.0 USB Adapter Dongle for Windows 10/ 8.1 / 8/ 7 / Vista / XP
| 19 Key Numeric Keypad | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJSAAU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But the steam link is new for $20...

https://www.amazon.com/Steam-Link/dp/B016XBGWAQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487809244&sr=8-1&keywords=steam+link

A Steam Link will run you $30 on Amazon.

https://smile.amazon.com/Steam-Link-Pc/dp/B016XBGWAQ/ref=smi_www_rco2_go_smi_g2609328962?_encoding=UTF8&%2AVersion%2A=1&%2Aentries%2A=0&ie=UTF8

I just wanted to post these two links...

eBay with Free shipping($25): http://www.ebay.com/itm/112036760697
Amazon Used ($33.45): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/ol/B016XBGWAQ/ref=mw_dp_olp?ie=UTF8&condition=all

It's also still available at Amazon.

Do your ears a favor and get a couple of speaker stands. If you don't have room for speaker stands on the floor, then at least buy a cheap pair of wall mount stands. These should work.

How about using some sort of stick-on plastic raceway to run your cable up the wall and around the corner?

Selected at random as an example:
https://www.amazon.com/Wiremold-CMK50-Cord-Mate-Kit/dp/B0015EDVVU

That would look a little more finished and wouldn't be too much of a project.

Generic wall mount kit from amazon.

And these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015EDVVU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_ZdsEAb0YS2QDD

Define damage. Damage as in make holes that you'll need to patch? Or do you consider something as minor as pulling paint that you have to touch up damage?

​

I use this to mount my sensors: https://www.amazon.com/iSaddle-Thread-Double-Sided-Adhesive-Universal/dp/B00BPRLNQ2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541363258&sr=8-3&keywords=3m+camera+mount

​

This to run the wires for the sensors (and my ethernet + bookshelf speakers) https://www.amazon.com/Legrand-Wiremold-Raceways-Management-Channels/dp/B0015EDVVU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541363250&sr=8-2&keywords=legrand+wiremold

​

And I used to use these until I went wireless:

https://www.amazon.com/Hyperkin-FreeStep-Management-System-playstation-4/dp/B073P7GJNP/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1541363291&sr=8-10&keywords=vr+cable+hook

Just to add to this, the simple step is to protect the cords, like /u/Yoko042684 mentioned. Raise the cables off the floor and put them in some kind of cable raceway that will also cover corners and turns, like this set.

Benefits to this method is it will be much harder for the rats to chew on the cables. Also a raceway will eliminate cable clutter on the floor and clear up a tripping hazard as well.

Dad of a young kid here: these do an excellent job of hiding cables from babies, and tidy up the look of the room at the same time:

https://www.amazon.com/Legrand-Wiremold-Raceways-Management-Channels/dp/B0015EDVVU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4

Add in wall mounts (assuming you don’t have floorstanding speakers) and you have a reasonably baby proof setup

The wall conduit way is the best looking for sure (and really isn't very difficult), but if you're renting and cutting a hole in the drywall isn't an option, just running the chords through one of those plastic wire concealment tracks will tidy things up a lot.

Something like this (although you could probably use a smaller cheaper kit since you would t need much):
Wiremold CMK50 Cord Mate II Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015EDVVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qXn8ybCGN21CA

Gorgeous lighting!

For cable management, check these out. Alongside zip-ties, they helped me out a ton. And that monitor is big enough to wall mount. If you do that, get some cable organizers for the wall. Something like this.

i would just go with something like this running to the back wall.
Then a couple of these run to the outlets.
I know you said you didnt want cables across the floor but other than installing sockets in the floor or hanging them from the ceiling...not a lot of options.

I think going in wall is always the best look but if that's not an option I've used this wire hider in my room and then painted over it and it does look pretty good.

https://www.amazon.com/Wiremold-CMK50-Cord-Mate-Kit/dp/B0015EDVVU/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1503410073&sr=1-3&keywords=wire+hider

I have a fan white noise, and monitor plugged in. I keep cords tidy by running them through a cord hider thing? This on Amazon

Wiremold CMK50 Cord Mate II Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015EDVVU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_OijYzbJVYR1VM

I also use one of those bulky child proof plug things for the essentials- baby monitor, so she can't ever unplug it. I suppose she could unplug her fan or light but the sockets are baby proof ones that just close if you unplug something.

I have her bed, a few baby safe toys, books, etc. an ikea storage cube thing that is typically used as a room divider but we lay them on their sides for the kids. It also hides the plugs where stuff is plugged in. Make sense?

Take out non critical. Mount anything you are worried about. Keep the rocking chair and stuff. You'll need it. Shoot it's 1:30 am here and I'm rocking her back down (cutting eye teeth and bronchitis yay)

I have these for my gaming stations. If you paint them to match the wall you barely notice them.

It's not finished until you hide those cables, sir.

1. As mentioned elsewhere, the BD pads are great. http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-EDT250V-Headphone-Pads-Black/dp/B0016MF7W2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410187952&sr=8-1&keywords=edt250
   
   
2. Never tried and never looked.
   
   
3. If you bought them used, so used that the pads are worn, wouldn't the burn-in opportunity be long gone?

Absolutely, and I don't think it would look bad with black pads on white headphones personally.

Here are the ones I bought. They took a little effort to put on there, but are very snug and don't move around. (The amazon picture isn't correct, as it looks like they are the plastic/leather pads, but what you get is the velour) http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016MF7W2/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These Shure pads apparently work as well, although I don't have any experience with them. Looking at the reviews they seem like they fit a little bit looser and can freely spin a little bit. http://smile.amazon.com/Shure-HPAEC940-Replacement-Velour-Headphones/dp/B005OM06RG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395931310&sr=8-1&keywords=srh+840+velour

When I get home tonight, I can take some pictures of them on my M50's if you'd like. I love them and well worth the $20 I say.

A few years ago a rebrand of these came out called NX-HTDJ with velour pads + headband. I picked up a pair for $12 and they're amazing. Unfortunately it looks like they aren't being manufactured anymore.

DT 250 pads will fix the 8323's but they cost about $25.

A nice alternative is the Beyerdynamic DT250 Velour Pads. They fit both the M50 and pro700mk2 (though it takes a bit of wiggling).

These are either MDR-7506 or the MDR-V6 and either way, you have a stellar pair of headphones right there. I roll the MDR-7506 myself and for the money, you won't find a better technical listening experience. If you replace your pads with the Beyerdynamic Velour Earcups you will find slightly better isolation, increased comfort, and even clearer bass. Here's a link to them on Amazon, but shop around: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016MF7W2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_LNbZub1T1DBBB

You'll need to pry off the old ones along the edges. Once you get a bit off, the rest should slide off with it. Just be gentle with the edges so you don't bend anything out of shape and harm the isolation quality.

Just thought this would be fun to do.

(from left to right, top to bottom)

2009 13" Macbook Pro w/ 256 GB SSD

Pentel GraphGear 1000

Moleskine Notebook

Nebo Redline

Bolle Anaconda

Time Easy Reader

Ultimate Ears TripleFi 10

Boy Scouts Swiss Army Knife (not sure which model)

Audio-Technica M50 with EDT250 pads

Nintendo Wallet from NYC Nintendo World

Insulated 20oz Klean Kanteen

Kenneth Cole Reaction Bag

Arbor Bandana (as a face mask for cold days)

iPhone 4S

S-Biner

Keys (glowing tritium, apt, mail, bike, lockbox, utili-key, LED, room, car keys)

You can roll the Beyerdynamic DT250 Pads.

http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-Velour-Earcushions-MDR7506-Headphones/dp/B0016MF7W2

They fit surprisingly well and they're velour to boot.

EDIT: Maybe it goes without saying, but I have these on mine. Look here for pics.

http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/ele/3220450140.html

I have had mine since 2007.

When your ear pads die- they will die either by disintegrating or splitting at the seams, you can buy these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016MF7W2/

They will fit your headphones, and are velour. A bit more comfortable I think too.

These things are tanks, and while they may get uncomfortable if you wear glasses, they will last a long, long time through much abuse.

I have flown countless times with them, and they still work flawlessly.

Put the velour pads on mine about a month after I got them, can't recommend this enough. The headphones are super comfy now and don't wear on my ears during long use.

For reference: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016MF7W2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes actually I got the flaking right around the 4 year mark as well. Following instructions I found on a forum, I replaced the original pads with some Beyerdynamic pads , and it was just as good as new!

[Edit] here's a video showing you the process of replacing the pads.

That won't work, this will
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

But in all seriousness yes it will hah.

They only sound terrible because you're not using the right Monster cables.

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-1m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4 best cable on the market.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

This one...

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

read the reviews. it cures cancer. makes a 480 tv a 2160. i also hear it gives blowjobs

Needed more diamond

Edit: MOAR !!

Here's a 3 ft one that costs more than $1000: https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

They also have a 52 ft version: https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/

People use those cheap $400 cables? I guess some people just don't care about real quality.

I highly recommend using this USB cable. It really is the only way to make your charging port last longer.

AudioQuest Diamond 2m (6.56 feet) Braided HDMI Cable only $1,000.00 USD on Amazon.
Link:
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

> I was very amused by the claims of these guys, saying that reflective light was easier on the eyes... such a load of crap.

You OBVIOUSLY haven't spent a lot of time with the technology then, or haven't used the proper equipment. Properly reflected light, reflected off a alloyed gold (or better yet, platinum) based reflector, through a diamond refractor will produce a VERY crisp image that you can look at for hours with no strain. The benefit of using platinum instead of gold is that gold provides just a hit of coloring, whereas platinum provides all the warmth of gold with more accurate colors, but some people just like to cheap out.

Geeze, next you'll be spouting off about how my AudioQuest HDMI Cables are no better than some Amazon Basic crap. :D

Peasants won't know about my glorious HDMI Cable!

Make sure to get this Diamond HDMI cable to get a 144Hz 4K signal!

Luxottica's market behavior clearly has some pretty serious effects on the price of an essential medical device, which you acknowledge.

I would estimate markups far higher than 200-300%, though. The wholesale prices of Luxottica's products look like retail prices for other products with similar supply chains, produced by manufacturers with far less verticality and negotiating power. Lets be realistic: competitively durable and fashionable eyeglasses could realistically retail in the $25-$50 range, sans lenses.

I would encourage you to consider what the loss or destruction of a pair of glasses by a kid who needs them can do to a struggling family's monthly budget, before you conclude that this sort of markup doesn't have fairly enormous negative social effects.

>Do we say that even though high-end clothes/accessories/etc. charge a huge markup that the consumers are being exploited?

Where each individual draws the line will probably differ, but I think most would agree that it certainly can be exploitative. I don't think that one factor is enough to dispositively conclude that an act is or is not exploitative.

Can we get a DIAMOND MICRO-USB for $2000 though? Like these but smaller: http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

Should of got one of these

Oh I dunno about that

Well If I had 15 conference rooms I would probably do something a little more "official". Look into the wide world of Crestron and Extron products. If its on a conference table I would look at something like the Fliptop tied into an HDMI switch/scaler for your different digital and analog formats with a single HDMI running back to the screen. Of course you can always start going over the top by tying in audio and lighting but its all about $$$.

Or if you like quick and dirty, ScottRaymond has the right solution except put all the clutter under the table and get an auto sensing HDMI switch like this one

Source: A/V at a conference center is one of my hats

I use:http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393787526&sr=8-1&keywords=kinovo+hdmi+switch

I have my XB1, PS4, Apple TV, Directv HDDDVR all plugged in. It always displays the most recent device I turned on.

Here is one with 5 HDMI ports
https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y

but yeah an AV Receiver is probably the best bang for buck since you can plug in mostly everything into one device.

vga to dvi adapters are cheap.

Ok, there are 2 different models of a monitor sort of like that. One is pretty much the exact one I linked, and that has a VGA connector(was used on PCs before DVI came into the market). The newer ones(back is totally clear) used ADC(which combines video, usb, and power into one plug). If you have the VGA one you're in luck,you either just plug it right into the VGA port on your computer, or if you only have DVI, you just need a DVI to VGA adapter. Once you get the monitor connected to your computer, you're all set, just boot up the machine, and it should be ready to go. No software or anything is required.

If it's the kind with the ADC adapter, it's really not worth it, since the adapters for those usually go for over $100. You'll be much better off finding someone selling/giving away a used CRT monitor locally



As far as your other questions go;

2. Don't really think there are many safety precautions you need to take, assuming it hasn't been rained on or anything while in storage. I guess be ready to unplug it when you first test it incase the flyback transformer or something inside is smoking. If you don't have any experience with the inside of CRTs, don't go inside it to clean it out or anything, and you'll be fine.

3. not really sure. Maybe if you put it in a garbage bag outside with one of those anti-bug bomb things or whatever, that will get rid of any insects. Not really sure how safe those are for electronics. Maybe someone else can chime in?

4. Only a little crazy :-P

Then you need a DVI to VGA adapter to plug in to your graphics card.

A lot of the time your motherboard or your graphics card will include this adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-202-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O17/

Use this cable from the "output" of your Valhalla. Red for right, black for left.

You'd need these. And to set the JBL's input sensitivity to -10 for unbalanced inputs.

I have a Scarlett 2i2 and have done this very thing. Here’s what you need:

1. Something from your line out that splits into a right and left - either regular phono plugs that you can attach a TS adapter to (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078DSKHSB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.SmACbWEFMVSV)
   
   or something that ends in 2 TS male plugs. Whether you’re coming from 3.5mm or phono you can find a cable for it:
   
   

• Dual 1/4" TS to Dual RCA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O17/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UVmACbCVV9YZN
  
  
• 3.5mm TRS to Dual 1/4 Inch TS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CNMSQOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gXmACbA5K4XKC
  
  One you’ve got the cable/adapter you need, plug one into each input on your Scarlett and match their volumes. Set each input to “line”. Make sure your direct monitor setting is “stereo”.
  
  Set the inputs middle to low and bring the source up until it’s at a comfortable spot.
  
  Should be good to go!

Best way to do this is use your Magni 2 uber as a preamp. So connect RCA to TRS cables (or RCA cables with TRS adapter) from the Magni 2 preamp outs, to your JBL LSR305's

RCA to TRS example: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CPR202-Dual-Inch/dp/B000068O17

TRS adapter if you already have RCA to RCA cable: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-GPR101-Inch-Adaptor/dp/B000068O3S

I used those adapters for my JBL LSR305's because I already had an RCA cable laying around. You'll be able to control volume with your magni 2 volume knob

Edit: spelling

I'd second the LSR308's, the bigger 8" driver makes a huge difference to bass response which is pretty key for hip hop IMO and you'd have to buy a separate speaker amplifier for the ELACs.

The LSR308s take balanced XLS or 6.3mm balanced TLS / unbalanced TS input, so you'll want a pair of RCA -> TS cables (or RCA -> RCA + adapters) to connect the Modi.

Unfortunately there's no pre-amp out on the non-Uber Magni, so you won't have an easy reach volume control - and the volume controls on the back of powered monitors are often awkward to adjust, so you could also consider adding a cheap pre-amp such as the Schiit Sys ($49, very good for the price, and fits with your current stack well) for easy volume control/input switching. If you do get one, you'll need an extra pair of RCA cables to connect it.

Other users have mentioned the sheer size of the speakers, so definitely worth considering a pair of speaker stands too - they definitely won't fit on most desks.

Overall that would cost between $425 and $475 depending on exactly where you buy and sales etc, and you won't get significantly better around that price (although personal taste plays a role). It also leaves you an easy future upgrade route if you wanted it (Adding a subwoofer, or upgrading the Modi.)

Would having two sets of these be the right solution? Nord -> KP3 -> monitors

Gallery: http://imgur.com/gallery/7N0G8

The end of 2016 brought in some really nice upgrades to my AV setup, including:

TV - Samsung KS8000 65" - Not too much to say about this TV as it's very widely discussed on this subreddit. I scored it with EPP pricing and 10% (doubles to 20%) cash back through discover for around $800 all said and done.

http://www.samsung.com/us/televisions-home-theater/tvs/4k-suhd-tvs/65-class-ks8000-8-series-4k-suhd-tv-2016-model-un65ks8000fxza/

AVR - Yamaha TSR-7810 - This is the Costco version of the Yamaha RX-V781. Purchased new for $464 after a $25 off coupon. Very capable unit for the price.

http://usa.yamaha.com/products/audio-visual/av-receivers-amps/tsr/tsr-7810/

Game Console - Xbox One S - Used for gaming, streaming and as UHD player.

http://www.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one-s

Front speakers - Axiom M60 V2 - Scored these audiophile grade speakers along with the side surrounds for $400 dollars total on craigslist. Great price for 4 higher end speakers imo.

http://www.axiomaudio.com/m60-floorstanding-speakers

Side Surrounds - Axiom M3ti - Purchased these along with the M60 fronts for $400. A little large for surround speakers, but I figured I may as well use them since I have them.

http://www.axiomaudio.com/m3-bookshelf-speakers

Speaker Stands - Pangea Audio LS300 - I needed 36" speaker stands and these fit the bill. Reasonable stands for the price of $139. I have the columns mass loaded with play sand.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EVNE96C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Speaker Mounts - VideoSecu speaker mounts - Some cheap wall mounts, pretty sturdy and have decent positioning capabilities.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X9O8SI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the existing gear that I did not upgrade yet but is still being used:

Center Channel - Polk Audio CSi3 - Part of my older entry level stuff. This is the next thing I am looking to upgrade as I'd like to match the center to the fronts. TBH I don't really notice difference in timbre as much as others may.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-JdQDXbhbK4P/p_107CSI3B/Polk-Audio-CSi3-Black-oak-finish.html

Subwoofer - Velodyne CHT-8 - Go ahead, laugh. Yeah it's only an 8" subwoofer but it does the job for now. Provides pretty good LFE for it's size, just doesn't extend very low. I currently live in a rented townhouse and the wall where the TV is is shared with my neighbor. I'm looking to upgrade to a 12" in the future, either SVS or HSU. But most likely won't happen while I'm living here.

http://www.audioreview.com/cat/speakers/subwoofers/velodyne-acoustics/cht-8/prd_286736_2741crx.aspx

Rear surrounds - Polk Audio M10 - These are pretty cheap speakers, but they could be worse. I don't have any plans on upgrading these unless i find a great deal on something used, or if they break.

https://www.amazon.com/polk-audio-m10-bookshelf-cherry-pair/dp/b002bsha66?tag=indifash06-20

Moving forward and comments:

I would like to get a 2 channel amp to power my front speakers to really wake up their full range. If anyone could recommend a good stereo amp that I could hook up to my pre outs that would be great. I have no experience in external amps and am pretty clueless to it honestly.

I know my cable management is not the greatest ,but unfortunately being a rented house there is not too much I can do.

I do realize that my rear soundstage is a little on the cramped side, the Side surrounds are rather close to the couch and so are the rears. I am lucky enough as it is that I got my GF to agree to moving the couch from the wall in the first place. Honestly, even with it being cramped I get a good effect and immersion, so I'm happy.

Subwoofer placement - This isn't really where I want the sub to go, but I did the crawl and it sounded decent here. Having a neighbor sort of forbids me to place it in the front soundstage.

TV is crooked. I have the TV mounted on the cheapest stand ever from Wal-Mart about 5 years ago. Eventually when I'm a homeowner the TV will get a proper wall mount, but this will do for now.

If anyone has any critiques or comments feel free to give me input. I'm always looking for ways to improve my setup.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X9O8SI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_Z4NFybWN9X0PW

My wife and I recently moved into our new home and the basement is mine to do with what I please. Naturally, getting my listening station all set up was a priority. It’s not a fancy set up but it looks good and it sounds really good. I’m running a Technics SL-D2, Pioneer CT-M6R cassette player, Onkyo 2 channel receiver, a pair of Chane Audio book shelf speakers, an old Cambridge Soundworks subwoofer that I got when I was in high school back in ‘99 but it adds some really nice beef to the sound. The only thing I might change are the speakers. I may opt out of using those stands as they are not very sturdy on the carpet. I was thinking about getting these:

VideoSecu One Pair of Side Clamping Bookshelf Speaker Mounting Bracket with Swivel and Tilt for Large Surrounding Sound Speakers MS56B 3LH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X9O8SI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_78m0Cb1456B4H

And mounting them to the posts. Anyone have experience with these mounts? Thanks.

Here are some Pyle that look like they would work. You could also just get some clamp style mounts like these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X9O8SI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_0g0Kwb7K78FTV

If you decide to spread the rears out without a shelf in the future lol

from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X9O8SI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000X9O8SI/
?

You'll need an amplifier, copper speaker wire, and a cable to attach to your computer (typically 3.5 mm to RCA). Typically, you need to buy things separately.

An active adapter is not a cord. It's a box.

• https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-002B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U

https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Adapter-Converter-DP2DVID2/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542391727&sr=8-3&keywords=displayport+dvi+active

One like that. There are similar ones available elsewhere.

Yes, just make sure to use an active converter. The passive (unpowered) ones can't pass enough bandwidth to the monitor to drive 1920x1080@144hz. I have three of the active connectors and they work fine. Expensive, though! (~ $100).

Here's an Amazon link for the ones I use:
https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Dual-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

For 1440p / 120Hz (or for situations like mine, with a higher resolution 2560x1600 / 60Hz panel) you'll need an active Displayport to DVI-D adapter (along with a proper dual link DVI-D cable). The common <$30 adapters are all passive DVI-I single link and max out at around 1920x1200 / 60Hz.

The two active adapters that pop up as generally reliable are the Dell Bizlink XT625 and the Startech DP2DVID2. They run between $75 and $120 depending on the retailer.

Yes but you need to get a $100 adapter for 144Hz support

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A493CNY

Cheaper adapters do not work for 144Hz. This is why it's not recommended to buy a 144Hz monitor without DisplayPort.

I happen to have an RCA Audio Out port on my TV that I pass directly to headphones. Everything is wired and I just calibrate to that.

If you don't have those, you might want to look into an HDMI Audio Extractor. I know it's not exactly a software fix with your current setup, but shouldn't be too pricey to get working.

How about a HDMI audio extractor? That way it stays digital until it gets to the Sonos DAC. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jD4eAbDD15YSG

The thing you're looking for is called an HDMI audio extractor. This one extracts the audio to optical 5.1 or RCA stereo.

you could use an hdmi audio extractor to extract the 5.1 and send it via an optical TOSLINK cable that your receiver supports: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E

Yep here is what you need:
http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421170441&sr=8-2&keywords=hdmi+to+toslink&pebp=1421170442563&peasin=B00BIQER0E.

Alternatively, you can use the audio output from your tv if your tv has one. However that requires that you keep your tv on when listening to just music.

Has anyone considered getting a regular Chromecast instead of a Chromecast Audio and using one of these HDMI Audio Extractors (https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E) to cast just the audio?

http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/onktxsr343/onkyo-tx-sr343-5.1-ch-x-65-watts-bluetooth-a/v-receiver/1.html

+

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Pioneer-SP-BS22-LR-Andrew-Jones-Designed-Bookshelf-Loudspeaker-Pair-/262374745318?

+

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0WDQ/?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1474621439&sr=1-2


You can add a sub later on if you feel the lack. Or just go over budget: http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1200-12-120-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-629

Remember that speaker placement is important. Don't shove them close together below the TV or something. Get stands if you need to. They should at least be to either side of the TV.

You will need an amplifier like this.

That cable is fine, but there are cheaper alternatives on amazon (amazon basics wire I recommend for starters).

You need to hook up your PC to the amplifier through RCA or 3.5mm jack. Then hook up the speaker wire to your speakers.

Correct.

This is all you need for speaker wire for those speakers if you are not running them more than 25 ft from the amp. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Audio-Stereo-Speaker/dp/B006LW0WDQ/ref=sr_1_4

RCA cables do not have to be expensive. These cables will work fine https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8JW0/

If you have the room for it, the best deal on amplification is often to look for a used audio video receiver on your local Craigslist. People tend to upgrade AVRs that are ~ 10 years old in order to buy the latest models that support Dolby Atmos ceiling speakers. If your video card has an extra HDMI out, you can also run audio to an AVR using that instead of RCA cables.

Or did you have a separate budget for the amplifier?

College kid here, I'll try to help out.

It's generally recommended that you don't ever go for a HTIAB (home theater in a box) as they come with super shitty components and most often don't leave room to upgrade.

You'll get more flexibility and bang for your buck with bookshelves and a sub, but as you mentioned you only want a 2.0 for right now. If bass is really that important to you, I would actually recommend you get a pair of bookshelves now and invest in a sub later on. Towers are great but for a 2.0 setup you're going to want something smaller with better sound quality.

 

---

Bookshelves: used Polk Signature S15's

>Top listing is $165 for like new speakers; S15's run for $229/pair new.

This listing in particular says "Speakers only, nothing else is included" which is odd for them to mention because I don't think these speakers normally come with any accessories. Maybe he's talking about the manual which can easily be found online. But who needs manuals anyway?

 

Amp: SMSL SA-50

>Price fluctuates between $63 and $69. This listing is $63.

Puts out 50 wpc, will power pretty much any speaker you throw at it. I owned this myself and recommend it for a first setup. Just keep in mind you will have to upgrade to a surround receiver if you ever want to move past 2.1 in the future.

---

 


This puts you at $228 shipped. A bit above your absolute max of $200, but this is probably your best bet. You're also going to need to buy some speaker wire. It's only like $8.

So in total, this comes to $236 shipped. A bit above your budget, but it leaves you with some kickass bookshelves as well as the ability to add a sub in the future.

A couple things:

I highly recommend the HD 598s. I've used them for over a year now and I still love them like the day I got them. Everything sounds good on them and they are super comfy - you could wear them for 24 straight hours. I got this replacement cable for them and It's very high-quality and well worth the $16

All that being said, I would not really recommend using them in public. Firstly, while I love the the tan and brown look, they will look kind of goofy in public since they aren't really your "normal" headphone colors (unless, or course, you get the ones in black). Aside from aesthetics, there is not really a good storage solution (I think there's a case you can get for them, but it's really bulky), so they might get broken if you put them in your backpack and aren't careful with it. Finally, they are open-back. You will be able to hear everything around you, and everything around you will be able to hear you. If I'm without speakers and don't want to wear headphones, I'll actually just set them on the desk and turn them up a bit and they double pretty well as makeshift speakers.

Anyway, they're really best for home use (I use them for gaming, music, and everything in between).

Your welcome, unfortunately the only affordable replacement cables come from China, so the shipping time is long.

The only US replacement cables I've seen are overpriced and hyped up for audiophiles.

The seller is on Amazon as well and has some variants with phone mics built in.

Edit: Fixed Link.

You want this.

I got this one for use with my HD558s. I'm then running a 30 ft long headphone extension (15ft from computer to link box, 15 ft for Vive cable) back to a Behringer headphone amp and then a DAC. I also have other 15 ft extensions (DisplayPort, USB, power) from the link box back to my PC.

The end result? 30 ft of Vive leash, headphone cable is cable-wrapped back to a proper headphone amp and DAC. No plugging/unplugging, and good sound quality to boot.

Granted, take everything I just said above with the understanding that I don't have a Vive yet, and it might work great...or not!

Most of the comments here are correct in regards to silver/copper with all else being equal. But these cables increased the max volume I was able to reach with my phone because of the lack of an inline mic, which adds enough resistance where I was able to notice a VOLUME difference(NOT SOUND QUALITY, that stayed the same once volume matched). The HD598cs cable comes with an inline mic that adds resistance and confirmed that the hd598cs cable added the most resistance out of the other 2.5mm - 3.5mm cable options I had at my disposal(hd598 cable, hd598cs cable, akg k545, 3 audio technica cables from m50x). The regular 598 cable, all 3 m50x cables, and the aftermarket cable akg k545 cable(all of which didn't have inline mics) all reached significantly louder volumes that the cables that had inline mics.

Keep in mind that this experiment was performed with a phone, which has a combined mic/headphone jack. When a TRRS jack with inline mic is inserted into the phone's headphone/mic combined port, this was the only time I noticed the differential in volume. When I tried performing the same experiment on my desktop's headphone jack, which has a separate mic jack, there was no noticable volume difference between the cables with inline mics and without them. Performing the same experiment with all my laptops(combined single mic/headphone port) produced the same results with my phone.

edit: I also remember reading a couple of posts here about the button being all fucked up, where some redditors were experiencing left/right issues after unknowingly damaging the multifunction button on the wire. If you feel like you're not getting the proper volume, get these cables if you didn't use the inline mic much.

I have no idea how you did not find this, but here goes:

1. google: sennheiser 558 cable
   
2. first hit 'accessories' > http://en-us.sennheiser.com/audio-headphones-high-end-hd-558
   
   you can directly order from sennheiser us or look for part:
   542192 or the shorter cable without part-id on the website.
   
   second hit is amazon, with a 3rd party cable:
   http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Audio-upgrade-Sennheiser-Headphones/dp/B00KAKBHKM
   
   .. and the list goes on
   
   edit: the smaler cable has article number: 505638

I got these a few weeks ago and it's been fantastic so far, really nice build quality and shipping was quite a bit faster than expected which was another plus.

> My assumption is that closed headphones adds more presence since it isolates you more from the real world.

This is true. But with closed headphones you get less sound stage and it feels more like you're wearing headphones than it feels like sounds are happening around you. Open headphones allow sounds to feel like there is some space between your ear and where the sounds is coming from. It's kind of a balancing act.

I'm going to be using my Sennheiser HD 558 for personal use. They're the most comfortable thing I put on everyday. I could probably wear them 24/7 and not notice them. They just kind of melt into your head and onto your ears... and they sounds great for the price.

I did buy a shorter cable and plan on ziptieing the Vive cables so I get a snugger fit without more cable flopping around. The cable that comes with Senn HD5XX headsets is at least 8 feet long. Great for at your desk, not great to be dragging around behind you in VR.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAKBHKM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Relatively inexpensive, good cable. Not silver or anything super fancy, but it's built well and is braided

EDIT AT BOTTOM

No problem, if for some reason you want to go with the senns considering I can give you a first hand review that they sound great, are pretty durable (I only say pretty because I take good care of stuff and am not hard on them, but I've had no problems) and are comfy, this is the cord I bought https://amzn.com/B00KAKBHKM

The long one has it's uses, it's nice for plugging into a pedal and playing guitar at night or plugging into a pc, but it's impractical for most day to day and portable use.

EDIT: http://cdn.arstechnica.net/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/psvr-4-980x654.jpg Apparently that's where headphones plug in half way down the cable (buds are above the move remotes), so it won't be as big of a problem as I thought, and a short one might actually be a problem. Ugh, so many things to consider.

Should be able to use something like this with the PS4’s optical out.

plenty out there, eg https://www.amazon.com/Orb-Audio-Booster-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B017J6K598

That said, you may just want a 12v DAC and then a separate amp, instead of trying to get two in one. here's a 5v: https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0

PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Optical to Analog L/R RCA Converter Toslink Optical to 3.5mm Jack Audio Adapter for PS3 Xbox HD DVD PS4 Amps Apple TV Home Cinema https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DHt5CbCZFA5KC

Here's one from Amazon you won't be able to use chat or anything though only sound

That optical cable doesn't convert the signal into something that your headphones can use, it is simply 2 different types of optical plugs at the ends.

This is the kind of thing you need, https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1482430996&sr=8-5&keywords=Optical+to+3.5mm

If you want audio out of the PS4 you'll need to connect into the optical out.

You'll need one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502680031&sr=8-1&keywords=digital+audio+to+analog

Connect this into the Optical Out to the PS4 and set the Optical as the audio device in the settings. Then you'll connect your headphones to the device.

Here is the one I use, works fine for the toslink out.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_k1oRDbFA92XG8

Do you have optical out on your motherboard? I had this issue for so long and finally fixed it with an optical to 3.5mm box like this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0

I also use an old Fiio E6 and that's great for the price too, though there're probably better options at this point.

Not sure if im allowed go direct link it but

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_0N.XCbQ5HG5CC

And that's for "output"? No. In fact, looking a the specs, it seems to have SPDIF (optical) out though. Also says that it has a headphone jack (but I wonder if it's the crummy thing that might be on the remote, like with other Roku devices).

If so, you can buy devices to convert optical SPDIF to something else. In my case I wanted a mini-jack. I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KNNSKV0

OP can correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like this headphone hanger on amazon

An under the desk headphone hanger. I see that potted plant, definitely a must have. I notice no mousepad? That looks like a wood table and you would get better response on a mousepad than just the table. I cannot fathom why people like the keyboards without the numbpad but to each there own.

The Anchor

Previous link was to Amazon.co.uk which is probably why he linked you to the US site.

Edit. Have a link

https://www.amazon.com/Anchor-ORIGINAL-Under-Desk-Headphone-Stand/dp/B00P31BMHG

sir. please

Nice, a sleek black and white aesthetic. Nothing is out of place here. Glad you went with a mouse mat with a small logo.

I don't have any suggestions really since it's all but perfect. I can offer a potential upgrade or two if you have money that needs spending!

A headphone stand has already been mentioned but the style of headphone stand that you decide to go with is also a consideration. You can get ones that stand on your desk. These are good if you want the headphones to be a point of attention on the desk. They are nice-looking Grados so might be a good idea.

If you want headphones on your desk but not to take up any space then you can get ones that attach to the edge like this or to the underside of the desk like this.

If you don't want them to be anywhere near the desk then you can find wall mounted ones or something you can stick to the side of a desk leg if it's wide enough à la this.

If you want a better quality LED bulb for your lamp (because it is a nice lamp!) then it might be worth investing into some high CRI (90+, ideally ~95-97) LED bulbs. They can be expensive but they are very nice. Make sure that you double-check the base type of the bulb already in the lamp before you buy. Yuji LED sell what are probably the best LED bulbs you can buy right now. You can also choose between colour temperature. If you only use the lamp during the evening then go for the 3000K option for a warmer colour.

For a future and more expensive investment (that could also become a hobby), you should look into buying or building a custom mechanical keyboard. Your setup would love it! Check out /r/MechanicalKeyboards if you're interested.

Hope this helps!

Miles.

Super cheap and works like a charm.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P31BMHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The product link is here:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P31BMHG/ref=cm_cr_rev_prod_title

This is really a great "stand". Super affordable, great quality, and saves space. It doesn't look "cool" as some of the other table-top stands, but personally I find it working really well as I am sure I'd grow tired of seeing a headphone on my table.

Nope, it's this guy: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P31BMHG

Looking good, but I have two inexpensive suggestions: get this for a PC stand and get this for your headphones

I just received the glass stand and I like it a lot, used it to raise up my monitor and free up space for my keyboard and my backup HDD. It'd fit/look a whole lot better than that silly AC retail box ;)

These are the ones I have.

I really recommend them, they make the headphones feel completely different. I have larger ears and they actually fit inside of the pads now.


Here is another picture, the stock ones are on the inside

You can try replacing the ear cup pads with something like this

Brainwavz Hybrid Memory Foam Earpad - Black PU/Velour - Suitable for Large Over The Ear Headphones - AKG, HifiMan, ATH, Philips, Fostex https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZGGG3KY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ezopDbSJMT9MR

Why not just buy another cable? You won't get much better sound than your hd598s, buying an aftermarket cable like this (https://www.amazon.com/NewFantasia-Replacement-Upgrade-Sennheiser-Headphones/dp/B00KAKBHKM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1523042550&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=hd599+cable&psc=1) would save you money that can be spent on something that you don't have

I found a better setup.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAKBHKM/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_rwdKBb4FQZAFD

This is the reason I didn't buy a pair of Sennheisers. Shortest cable I could find to work with them is 4 ft. Although I suppose if you keep it coiled it won't be horrendous.

http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Audio-upgrade-Sennheiser-Headphones/dp/B00KAKBHKM/

Why not get a replacement cable for your 598s and a cheapo mic

I don't see any reason why you can't replace your cable as you wish. Just make sure the 2.5mm end has the same type of twist-lock as the original. Here is the first one that came up on a Google search. This one comes in four different lengths.

Looking for an adapter for my 598Cs's 6.3mm cable. Looks like the cable is 2.5mm TRRS to 6.3mm. I need an adapter that converts that 6.3mm to 3.5mm. I purchased this one a few weeks ago, but it didn't work at all.

Someone suggested yesterday that I might need one that converts to TRRS, but that seems near impossible to find, and the few I can find seem sketchy and expensive (here and here). I'm at a bit of a loss so any help to find this adapter or something that works would be great. If I can't find anything here, I'm gonna go into a BestBuy or Guitar Center and ask around if they might be able to help.

EDIT: Been thinking about it more and is my issue that the cable is TRRS and therefore converting that to be just sound is impossible? Should I get a new cable like this?

Sennheiser makes an incredible set of open back audiophile headphones that are my go-to for music. Open back, removable cable, high quality audiophile sound, and comfortable as fuck. They fit my big ass head with plenty of room to adjust in both directions. They're fairly durable, so long as you're not tossing them around or banging them against something. Mine have survived two drops, although I don't recommend testing it, haha.

I will say that the cables that come with the headphones aren't that great, so you might want to consider a replacement. They're a bit pricey, but they've finally dropped under $150USD. They were $189.99 when I bought them, and now they're $139.99. Hell of a deal for the quality.

Amazon has some nice replacements.

Sennheiser RCG M2 is a 1.4M replacement with inline controls. Or you can go for a replacement w/o inline controls.

Pick up one of these if you want to listen on your laptop
http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Audio-upgrade-Sennheiser-Headphones/dp/B00KAKBHKM

I have a pair of 598's that I have had for a year. I want to make them a little louder so I am looking into getting an AMP/DAC. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LP3AMC2)

Also, I want to upgrade the cable to one that is a little bit shorter. I just don't know what size of this (https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Audio-upgrade-Sennheiser-Headphones/dp/B00KAKBHKM/ref=pd_bxgy_23_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00KAKBHKM&pd_rd_r=SMADGB41HQ3CRAP4XV4C&pd_rd_w=QToiZ&pd_rd_wg=2mqQo&psc=1&refRID=SMADGB41HQ3CRAP4XV4C) to get.

Thanks for the help.

I've been using https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Audio-upgrade-Sennheiser-Headphones/dp/B00KAKBHKM for about a year and a half. It is decent and comes in different lengths.

I have one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Audio-upgrade-Sennheiser-Headphones/dp/B00KAKBHKM/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449982201&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=hd+558+custom+cable

and also my hd 600's (and the 598's), come with one (although it's not braided). These cables are EXCELLENT, and that stock cable is freaking insane lol. It's pretty much impossible to use these headphones on the go without these. Oh an also because they are sleeved they don't tangle, and the spring at the end keeps the cable from wearing down overtime. It's pretty much good all around.

own some hd598's, hope i can help

i don't have a nontwist cable to test, but im pretty sure you need a nontwist cable to put into your headphones. you need to twist to shove them in all the way(if they aren't in all the way, you will only get sound out of your left ear, or quiet sound, or other stuffs). essentially no, you cannot use the headset without locking the cable into place.

i step on my cables a lot, and imo this is actually perfect. it keeps the cable in the jack perfectly. if you keep pulling on it for some months it'll seem to come loose easier, but cables are dirt cheap to replace in stead of you usually needing to get new headphones when you inevitably break your cable (went through 5+ headphones before i got my sennheisers)

i recommend grabbing one of the replacement cables sold on amazon. they hold into your pc jacks better than the cable+2.5>3.5mm adapter that it comes with in the first place. i got the 3m and it's been great (i broke my old one due to twisting it really really hard inside the jack with my chair, completely my fault. other than that it's held up great.)

i really don't understand the need to not have the twist mechanism, it's pretty beneficial. is there any reason why you'd actually need to remove it?

You might want to swap cables if you pick those up because they come with a 10 foot cable that has a 1/4" connector, any 3.5mm to 3.5mm male cable will work, if the ends are skinny enough but they sell ones made for headphones. |

http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Audio-upgrade-Sennheiser-Headphones/dp/B00KAKBHKM

https://www.amazon.com/NewFantasia-Replacement-Upgrade-Sennheiser-Headphones/dp/B00KAKBHKM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522477124&sr=8-1&keywords=hd+558+cable

the exact model of cable I have is no longer on amazon but this should be a similar upgrade https://www.amazon.com/NewFantasia-Replacement-Sennheiser-Headphones-1-2meters/dp/B00KAKBHKM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505828405&sr=8-3&keywords=598+cable

I ended up getting this one and I'm pretty happy with it, has the locking mechanism, I like the look, and seems durable so far.

http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Audio-upgrade-Sennheiser-Headphones/dp/B00KAKBHKM

Edit: Closeup

I'll never not recommend Sennheiser, they are amazing. Even their budget headphones are really good and sound leagues better than similarly priced headphones from "premium" companies like Skullcandy and Turtle Beach.

Comfortable, sound great, replaceable cable, and easy to clean (those ear cushions pop right off, I hand wash them with Dawn dish soap about 2-3 times a year).

The default cable with the 6.33m plug and 3.5mm adapter is a little annoying, I replaced mine with one of these and it's been great.

I use my old 518's for the Vive. I bought one of these in a 1.2m length and they're stylish and just perfect https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAKBHKM/

No coiling. Short enough that it can just be there.

The 558's and 518's have the same removable cable as the 598's (which I have and sound phenominal). The 598's come bundled with a shorter cable, but you can purchase one here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAKBHKM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edit: It's only the 598 Special Edition that comes bundled with the shorter cable, but they are all replacable.

Amazon has some pretty great generic replacement ones. A variety of lengths and finishes available. Mine are from here.

For anyone not liking the provided cable, I got This replacement cable, and it has been great.

^ this is exactly the one I have.

Correction: I have the 4ft cable for $5 less But it's up to you what length you need. The other linked one is 8ft.

When I started out I only had 2 speakers, a DAC and an amp, and was very happy with it.

I'd suggest going with that sort of setup, but for £80 it's going to be hard to get it inside budget, but I'll give it a go.

For speakers, the Diamond 9.0 will be the cheapest you can go unless you buy used.

For a digital to analogue converter something like this would have to suffice. It also comes with an optical cable which you'll need to connect your TV to it. It's powered by USB, an old phone charger or something would do.

For an amp, this would do. It comes with a 3.5mm to rca cable that you'll use to connect this to the DAC.

So that totals to £76. You would then only need speaker cable (Richer sounds will cut it to the length you need, just use the cheapest one they have) and maybe some banana plugs.

>is this a deal breaker and if not would above or below be better?

Not a deal breaker. Place on whatever shelf is closest to the level of the TV, then angle them slightly up or down based on where they are.

If your TV only has optical output use one of these between tv and speakers

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0

You may still have to go into settings into sound and change it from TV speakers to sound system or optical out or something - whatever the choice besides TV speakers is

I agree with this guy. Optical port is a good solution. I use it with an old Turtle Beach Stealth 500p (Playstation headset) that has a USB device which accepts optical in.

Convertors can also be had fairly cheaply to convert to jack/phono output : https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0

Just remember that you will only get sound, microphone will not work.

It's most likely that when your graphics card gets to work, it causes noise in the power supply (possibly because of a poorly designed GPU, a poorly designed or underrated PSU, or both) or induces noise in the motherboard's sound card (becuase mobos are cramped and costs are cut).

The only guaranteed solution will be to extract a digital signal from your PC and do the D-to-A conversion somewhere else. For example, you could try a USB sound card or music interface like the Focusrite Scarlett. Alternatively, you may be able to take an optical digital signal out and buy a cheap optical to RCA DAC like this. Or, you could stream the sound wirelessly with bluetooth audio adapters.

Splitting the HDMI is going to cause problems due to the HDCP and the fact you're trying to split the audio from video.

I would suggest something like this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KNNSKV0

Going from the optical output rather than trying to split the audio from the HDMI I would say is a better option as a cheap device will work fine as there is no need to split the audio from the video or protection that needs stripping first from the optical output.

If you're fine with the speakers you have now, why not just get an optical to 3.5mm DAC

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491029714&sr=8-3&keywords=optical+to+3.5mm

You will need a optical to analog converter

Something like this should do it

PROZOR DAC Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio R/L Converter Adapter with Optical Cable- https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9lZPBb2BTQ1KN

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fVfyCbFP4JEGT
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JBH4SFD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bZfyCbDA8VAYY

Will these suffice?

Thanks a bunch for your help.

The volume should be fine - but some headphone jacks on TVs seem to struggle when connected to line level inputs. If you don't need remote volume control via the TV remote you might get better results with one of these connected to the digital audio output of the TV https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0

Doesn't matter. Optical is fine. I have one of these to use some computer speakers on my girlfriend's TV.

PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio L/R Converter Adapter with Optical Cable for PS3 Xbox HD DVD PS4 Home Cinema Systems AV Amps Apple TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8kCYBbP4FZP41

try THIS. Had it back in the ps3 days, used it with the exact speaker you have.

I've just bought a pair of JBL LSR305 along with a JBL NanoPatch + off of Thomann. They sound ridiculously great when I connect them to my phone (using a 3.5mm TRS male-male cable), but when I hook them to my computer (to the motherboard's audio output) there's a lot of buzzing noise, that HEAVILY (and I mean heavily) increases whenever the graphics card is working hard, such as in games.

I've been reading a lot about this kind of noises. I've read about issues with grounding, but all my wall outlets are properly grounded. The computer and the speakers are connected to the same power strip, but I've tried connecting the speakers to a different wall outlet and the result is the same. I've tried with different cables and the same result.

I think the problem is that the electromagnetic interference within the computer is affecting the audio signal. However this has never happened before with other PC speakers or headphones (I used to have a pair of Gigaworks t40II and a pair of Sennheiser HD380 Pro).

I've read that using an external DAC could help. I used to have a Fiio e10k but I didn't really like it and it ended up breaking. Do you think I could solve this using a cheap Toslink-To-RCA DAC like this one?

Thanks in advance

I use the cheapest DAC i could find. No volume control and just SPDIF in and 3.5 and RCA out https://www.amazon.de/Analog-Stereo-Audio-R-L-Konverter-Adapter-optischem-Heimkino-Systeme-AV-Verst%C3%A4rker-schwarz/dp/B00KNNSKV0

Not if it has an optical or coaxial input. However, if you want to play it safe though, get a cheap one.

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542313071&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dac+optical+usb&psc=1&smid=A1L1WUWYKZGTBQ

Then, it doesn't matter what receiver you end up with.

If your motherboard doesn't have an S/P DIF optical audio output, add a sound card that has one ($30).

Optical audio cables are usually not included ($6).

If your speakers and/or headset don't have an optical input, you'll need an external DAC/AMP. There are models for all budgets from $12 for a simple converter, no Amp, to $70 for a DAC+AMP, to $toodamnhigh for an audiophile solution.

Note that an external DAC can have a USB port for your PC but don't use it since it would create an electrical connection. Only use the optical cable, and plug the DAC's power cord preferably in a different wall socket than the one used by the PC.

Recap:

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Sound Card | Asus - Xonar DG 24-bit 96 kHz Sound Card | $29.57 @ OutletPC
Custom | PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio L/R Converter Adapter with Optical Cable for PS3 XBox HD DVD PS4 Home Cinema Systems AV Amps Apple TV | $12.99 @ Amazon
Custom | FX Audio DAC-X6 24BIT/192 Optical/Coaxial/USB Digital Audio Amplifier DAC Decoder (Silver) | $64.99 @ Amazon
Custom | Edifier R1280DB Powered Bluetooth Bookshelf Speakers - Optical Input - Wireless Studio Monitors - 4 Inch Near Field Speaker - 42w RMS - Wood Grain (Black) | $129.99 @ Amazon
Custom | AmazonBasics CL3 Rated (In-Wall Installation) Toslink Cable - 6 Feet | $5.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $253.53
| Mail-in rebates | -$10.00
| Total | $243.53
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-05-23 20:45 EDT-0400 |

If it's not enough you can add a potentiometer but it's not recommended unless it really annoys you. It will remove any remaining white noise at the cost of lower volume. Lower volume means you will have to increase the volume to hear at the same level, and it will kill part of the spectrum: there's quality loss.
Example: you're a watching a movie scene where nobody speaks and everything is silent but the microphone still detects and records the natural ambient noise that air makes or people quietly breathing. The potentiometer would kill that.

This guy definitely knows what he's talking about. I personally rock the Superlux HD668B. The treble on them is a little high, but as your ears adjust to them, they sound excellent, especially for their $50 price tag. They beat out many $100-250 headphones.

However, the HD700s are some of the best headphones ever made, and will be good for pretty much anything; gaming, music, late-night movie watching, so if you're able to burn some money, definitely get those as they will likely be your go-to headphones for years to come.

Also, the headphone jack on the PS4 controller is pretty weak, not really meant to power great headphones, and it also uses Bluetooth which compresses the audio quality. If you have a home theater receiver connected, you can use that to plug your headphones into and it'll do you well. If not, I'd suggest getting a headphone amplifier. You can probably buy something like the Prozer DAC, which is remarkably cheap for it's quality. They have a $20 version as well, but headphones don't come anywhere near being able to hear that kind of fidelity (192 kHz, CD quality is 44.1 kHz), so it's really useless outside of maybe a studio where they have specialized gear for that sort of thing.

If you're going to be using headphones, you can get a cheap USB condenser mic, plug it into the PS4, and just set it near you on a table or something. The Samson GoMic is great, and very portable (about the size of a bite-sized Butterfinger candy-bar).

The headphones he listed though will absolutely get you where you need to go and a wide range of prices. And they all range from "damn good" to "excellent."

Of course, there are a plethora of "gaming" headphones, but most of them are junk because they cut a ton of corners on parts so they afford to put in "virtual surround sound", license Dolby, the microphone, and the software in the headphones to process/EQ the audio to bring you the sound "as intended" which is marketing bullshit, because the audio that comes out of the PS4 is what was intended, it doesn't need any additional processing. It's the same tactic Beats uses, and sadly, people fall for it. Gaming headphones, 99.999% of them, are just marketing scams with fancy buzzwords, really.

So yeah, TL;DR, grab the headphones you want, a headphone amp/DAC if you need, and a mic, and you'll have an audio setup that will blow most people's headphone setups away.

Edit: Fixed since I made this post on no sleep and there were some errors. lol

If he has the money tell him to upgrade his amp. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071RSJBX7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PDTRAb52S2FV7
This guy is on sale today, very solid option. I push for upgrades in this situation because a decent install takes quite a bit of work, enough work to make the end user want a good payoff. Little band-aid fixes are fine if that's the only option but from personal experience they add up and have their own issues. That said, here's your band-aid: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iHTRAbX6F9BKW (RCA cables not included).

It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!


Here is link number 1 - Previous text "DAC"



----
^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete

Try tape out

Try the headphone jack

Try one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0/

You're unlikely to find a mixer that has those inputs built in. Your best bet would be to use adapters for all those sources and just plug those in on the 1/4in jacks. Keeping in mind though that you should also look for mixers that support panning individual channels; each jack on a mixer typically just supports mono audio, so you'd have to send it back to left / right.

For example, I use a Mackie 402 on my desk. If I want to plug in a stereo line on channels 1 and 2, that "STEREO PAN" button has to be enabled to keep it from mono'ing them both.

Off the top of my head, something like the X Air series supports linking two channels and simultaneously controlling them + L/R panning them, for multiple channels, which you would probably need with your amount of inputs. A quick look and the Mackie ProFX12 would also probably suit your needs. Both of these are probably a little overkill for exactly what you need, but generally they both have the ability to properly handle your sources once they're in 1/4in form.

I'm kind of going on at length on this because I 100% did not consider it as a problem to be aware of when buying my mixer for my purposes and just lucked out that everything works.

For those adapters, a bluetooth receiver and appropriate cables for that particular unit, optical converter, and if "A/V audio" means RCA, just slap that RCA-1/4 from earlier in as well.

Looks like those have 3.5mm and RCA inputs. You have two options:

1. Run a cable from the speakers' input to the headphone jack on your controller, and send all audio to "headphones." Downside: you basically end up with a wired controller.
   
   
2. Buy this, plug it into the PS4's optical audio output and your speakers' input. Use a USB port on the front of the PS4 for power.

I got one of these ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KNNSKV0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) optical (toslink) to analog audio converters (runs off USB power). My main xbox audio comes through HDMI to TV/Soundbar, so I wasn't using the optical out on the xbox. I just switched it to stereo out on optical. Then use the provided audio cable with the buttkicker on that converter and into the buttkicker input.


For the Buttkicker settings, I found these online and they seem to work great (sorry for lack of credit, was in a forum somewhere):
Low cutoff switch ON
High Cutoff switch ON
High Cutoff freq . Knob 40 Hz

If you're willing to invest I use this and it works like a charm.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KNNSKV0/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KNNSKV0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and used the Optical audio output on the XB1 into the adapter and then a 3.5mm cable to go from adapter to the AUX in on my PC speakers and it works perfect. I can even hear the audio from the Xbox at the same time as audio from my PC so no need for changing inputs on my speakers or anything.

What big square thing? Are you talking about the optical port. This would probably be your best bet. Note: I have not used this so I can’t comment on how it works, but it seems to be what you need. And it is only $13 on Amazon + it has prime.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KNNSKV0/ref=psdcmw_3236443011_t1_B00NJCCAKY

Another plus, I believe optical has the best transmission speed.

Just to be sure I have this all right.

I need this adapter.

And this and this

Sorry to be a nuisance

Best $12 I've ever spent.
https://www.amazon.com/Anchor-Under-Desk-Headphone-Stand-Mount/dp/B00P31BMHG

Get the [Anchor] (https://www.amazon.com/Anchor-Under-Desk-Headphone-Stand-Mount/dp/B00P31BMHG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465506452&sr=8-3&keywords=the+anchor) for your headphones. Overall, looks good.

here

Maybe consider a monitor mount (example) and a headphone hook (example) and you might find yourself with some more space to work with. Looks great, though. Pretty cool that you're so close to that window for some fresh air.

https://www.amazon.ca/Anchor-ORIGINAL-Under-Desk-Headphone-Stand/dp/B00P31BMHG/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=headset+mount&qid=1569019271&sprefix=headset+m&sr=8-5

Hmmm. I have an hd650. What about this?

https://www.amazon.com/Anchor-ORIGINAL-Under-Desk-Headphone-Stand/dp/B00P31BMHG

The Anchor - THE ORIGINAL Under-Desk Headphone Stand Mount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P31BMHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_NKcbrrU2ocURn

I'm going to suggest a few things because your setup has a lot of potentials. First, mount that CRG9. That behemoth is a great monitor but the stand just takes up too much space, once you mount it, it will give you an unbelievable amount of desk space. Second, drill a hole and route your mouse and keyboard cord thru it. Also, get something like this to hang your headset underneath the table. Last but not least, put some pictures or your collection or what not onto the wall to make it more personal. Afterward, your setup will look much better and super clean. Hope that helps.

Elevation Lab The Anchor - The Original Under-Desk Headphone Stand Mount | Gaming Headset, Over Ear Headphones Hook, Universal Dual Fit | Patented https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P31BMHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5u2NDbTZA7JVW

Nice man, I'm majoring in Kinesiology

The Anchor - THE ORIGINAL Under-Desk Headphone Stand Mount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P31BMHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jf3Szb9WFM70V

Eh, I prefer this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P31BMHG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_99XNwbJAN8C54

One of those little $10-15 stick on hooks you get on Amazon that attach to the bottom of your desk.

This one I think.

> P.S I know what yall are thinking, this is some rich fat kid that sits on his ass all day and needs everything perfect.

Didn't cross my mind at all but thanks for clarifying anyways. Had me worried.

http://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Peridot-Headphone-Stand-Suitable/dp/B00AE0IEHM

http://www.amazon.com/AmoVee-Acrylic-Headphone-Stand-Black/dp/B00SGW9QLS

http://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Hengja-Headphone-Desk-Hanger/dp/B012VIWG28

http://www.amazon.com/Anchor-Under-Desk-Headphone-Stand-Mount/dp/B00P31BMHG

Take your pick.

do you want a hanger like this - http://www.amazon.com/Anchor-Under-Desk-Headphone-Stand-Mount/dp/B00P31BMHG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449520971&sr=8-2&keywords=headphone+hanger or like this http://www.amazon.com/LUXA2-HO-HDP-ALE1SI-00-Headphone-Sennheiser-Plantronics/dp/B00MCVOILM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1449521006&sr=8-4&keywords=headphone+stand. The philips has a headband + an adjusting headphone pad - just hang them using the headband part and not the headphone pad and you'll be fine - you won't ever had to worry about the fabric wearing or arcing.

https://www.amazon.com/Anchor-ORIGINAL-Under-Desk-Headphone-Stand/dp/B00P31BMHG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501773825&sr=8-3&keywords=headphone+hanger

Get one of thesebad bois for headphones, they’ve free’d up a lot of clutter on my desk.

I really like this one.

EDIT: Realized it might not be what you're looking for. But I like it. So there! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

It's a sticky add-on I got from Amazon.

I use an under-desk mount for mine. I have the smaller variant from that link (would have chosen the larger one if I'd originally planned on using it for my VR headset, but it's fine), and while mine isn't quite large enough to hold a VR headset comfortably, it still works, and weight isn't an issue - I've been using it for the last several months to hold both my headset and headphones together without issue.

Nothing special, just this hanger from Amazon. Really neat!

I wanted to share a couple pictures of the desk set up and also some of the accessories I purchased. My expirience with Fully was great. I got the Jarvis3 with Walnut veneer in a72x60 size. The frame was delivered about 3 days later and the desk top about a week after purchase. The quality is everything I expected! This thing is heavy and stable at all heights. I love this desk!

Pics:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1E7Vi_PN-sxrfnujw9ZgXZTnQwUT8dTyeLA/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LBK9sdiy9oULc-dOgY7ElnAcd45jkCCloQ/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L56J3IP3A9cVEiPSgyNNANwCjJIY4P3blA/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1N0TaD-U1OJlcw7mq8sihXH_obmELsdRv6A/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Mw-c-78JU_MAIraOlL56jLZuFK-l0lQMDA/view?usp=sharing

Accessories
I decided to get the keyboard tray and accessories from Amazon. The keyboard tray is probably going back because it is difficult to move back and forth.
Keyboard Tray Here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M2319VR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The Anchor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P31BMHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wiretamers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BVYW7UY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

VESA adapter for old Samsung Monitor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071YFDQKS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dual Monitor Mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018MSDG84/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Clips for wire management: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071L91LBH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Long Power strip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036DEC48/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

the Anchor

Build

CPU: i5-7600K
RAM: Avexir Core Series 8GB DDR4 2400
MB: ASUS PRIME Z270-AR
GPU: msi GeForce GTX 750 Ti
Storage: Samsung SSD 850 EVO 500GB
Storage: 5TB in hard disk storage
PSU: SeaSonic M12II 620
Cooler: Corsair H80i closed loop cooler
Case: NZXT H440 Mid-Tower

*

Peripherals*

Displays: Dual Dell U2412M
Keyboard: Velocifire VM01
Mouse: Logitech M560
Mousepad: Steelseries QcK
Headphone hanger: The Anchor (barely visible below the desk)
Amp: Pyle PTA4 Mini (PC, turntable, and docking station as switchable inputs)
Webcam: Logitech C310
Dell docking station for work laptop
UGREEN USB 3.0 sharing switch (switches webcam, keyboard, and mouse between dock and PC)
XBox 360 wireless receiver and controller



Rainmeter

For the interested, my Rainmeter theme details can be found here.

*****

Been wanting to make this build for a long time. Or really, any build. Always loved PC gaming, never had the budget until this year and put this together with the help of a friend.

As far as wireless headsets that are surround sound, you have the following compatible with Xbox One:
>Turtle Beach

>* Elite 800X - $299 - Great when it works. I personally had issues with 3 sets and decided it wasn't for me.

• Stealth 500X - $229 - Model before the 800X. Same 50mm drivers as the 800x basically the same, but without bluetooth compatibility for the phone app and bluetooth audio. This is the wireless solution that I decided was best for me.
  
  > Astro
  
  > A50 - $299 - There is an A50 that is out now that is commonly referred to as the "Halo A50." It is the current generation model that comes with the headset stand, base station, etc. It's a great headset that is mostly wireless. For chat, it requires a cord from the headset to the controller.
  
  > A50 (new) - $299 - This version is not out yet, and has been delayed. The biggest difference between the newest model and the previous generation is this model is completely wireless with no cords from the headset required.
  
  >SteelSeries
  
  > SteelSeries Siberia X800 - $309 - This wireless headset uses a cord to the controller for voice chat. I am unfamiliar with the headset but it seems like a valid third brand option, in no particular order.
  
  >Wired Headsets
  
  > This requires some type of surround sound receiver, headphones, and a mic. There are bundles available from Astro, Turtle Beach, Razer, SteelSeries, etc., but one can obtain better quality by mixing and matching the best of each part: the receiver, the headset, and microphone (if it isn't included in the headset)
  
  > Surround sound receivers
  
  > This is pretty much between Astro's Mixamp Pro TR and Turtle Beach's
  
  > Astro's Mixamp Pro TR for XO, PS4, PC and Mac - $130 This is one option for dolby digital 5.1/7.1 surround sound decoding and Dolby Headphone encoding for any standard stereo headset.
  
  >* Turtle Beach Elite Pro TAC - $199 - This is a second option for DTS surround sound via DTS Headphone:X 7.1 Surround Sound. A lot of options that aren't available on the Mixamp Pro TR are on the Turtle Beach TAC such as being able to adjust background noise, microphone boost and mic monitor levels instantly and physically.
  
  
  > Differences between Astro and Turtle Beach They both do a great job at providing situational surround sound to stereo headphones. With the current firmware updates for each respective unit there does seem to be a sound quality difference with a lot of people prefering the Astro. I recommend plugging in headphones and watching this video and hear the differences for yourself: Astro Mixamp Pro TR vs Turtle Beach TAC
  
  >Headsets
  
  > Some of the best headsets recommended by those on HeadFi.org can be read about here. This is where I had come to my selection of the AudioTechnica ATH-AD700.
  
  > If you would rather buy a wired surround sound headset ready to go out-of-the-box
  
  > For a wired ready to go set, I'd have to put my money on the Astro A40 Mixamp Pro TR, although I personally prefer open-back headsets instead of sound isolation closed-back headphones.
  
  If it were me buying a set today...
  
  I would want something wireless so it would be the newest Astro A50 that comes out in October, or the SteelSeries X800, but then again, it is because I've went down the wired path, using a mixamp or DSS with many different wired headphones and mics. Even if I didn't have cord-loving cats, I'm glad that I have a wireless headset. It really is a personal preference that you can't really pin down, until you try some yourself.
  
  A side note: I have an average sized head, but larger than average protruding ears. Every headset I've purchased, I've swapped out the earcups with aftermarket sets. Most notably brainwavz HM5 earups. They are deeper and more comfortable for me and have worked on most sets of headphones without modification. I highly recommend them. They come in Pleather - various colors, Hybrid pleather + Velour, and just Velour

The HM5 seems to come in a hybrid version with velour where it contacts the head and pleather elsewhere. I trust it's good quality given the HM5 Velour I had was also recommendable. Could be a decent compromise.

here you go. however, now they are twice of what i bought for. so, you might wanna wait a while until the price drops. although, i'm not entirely sure whether the price hike was due to the recent sales.

Original, all pleather. - https://smile.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Foam-Earpads/dp/B00MFDT894

Hybrid - https://smile.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Hybrid-Memory-Foam-Earpad/dp/B00ZGGG3KY

The pads I purchased weren't exactly the standard issue HM5 pads. I own a pair of HE-400 with focus pads and I thought it really helped with the comfort there, so I opted for the focus pad knockoff style.

Supposedly the combination of faux leather, suede and perforated leather on the inside of the pads helps it acoustically somehow. Seeing as how I've never owned a pair of standard issue HM5 pads, I can't really compare the two for any acoustic differences that may or may not exist.

I'm also reminded of how it's been shown many times over that people to tend to mistake a louder headphone for a better headphone. Seeing that the HM5 pads are bigger, they cause the ear to be further away from the drivers, resulting in a lower overall volume, although easily corrected by turning the volume up. I readily admit that I have no idea how much this phenomenon affects my overall impressions of the headphones w/HM5 vs w/stock pads.

Amazon

Brainwavz

MP4Nation

Take your pick.

I don't know if you've solved this yet, but I purchased the following:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZGGG3KY/ref=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_0

And they worked wonderfully, improving comfort and spacing. Only thing to note is that they have a bit of a tight fit at first, but they do go on.

Since the headphones are uncomfy, you should get some earpads from Brainwavz. They make a night and day difference.

These are some good ones http://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Velor-Memory-Replacements-Earpads/dp/B00MFDX4YO/ref=pd_sim_267_67?ie=UTF8&dpID=41RSWch-OBL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=05W96ZBWQMFJX3RFTNBX these http://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Hybrid-Memory-Foam-Earpad/dp/B00ZGGG3KY/ref=pd_sim_267_69?ie=UTF8&dpID=41haME4X2jL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=05W96ZBWQMFJX3RFTNBX or these http://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Foam-Earpads/dp/B00MFDT894/ref=pd_sim_267_45?ie=UTF8&dpID=41vuwIZESZL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=05W96ZBWQMFJX3RFTNBX I tried the M50x, same pads, very uncomfy but these are VERY high quality.

https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-2024A-Amplifier-Stereo-Supply/dp/B00ULRFQ1A/

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0WDQ/

For speakers, go for the Dayton B652 Airs, or check craigslist for some decent bookshelf speakers.

Exactly. A proper stereo is the solution here. Use a decent amp and speakers for the audio and pair it with an Echo Dot to control it, using the line out jack on the Dot to connect it to the amp.

If /u/Treas0n is looking for a good budget option, I'd highly recommend the Lepai amp + Dayton speaker setup. This setup is the go-to budget kit on /r/audiophile and would be plenty loud with really good sound quality. It's about $90 for the whole kit (+$30-$50 for an Echo Dot):

Lepai LP-2020TI Texas Instruments TPA3118 Hi-Fi Stereo Audio Mini Amplifier with Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FJF4FF/ (don't go for this one anymore, grab a tripath version)

Kinter K2020A+ Limited Edition ORIGINAL Tripath TA2020-020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Mini Amplifier with 12V 5A Power Supply Black https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077Z7DBRT

Dayton Audio B652-AIR 6-1/2" 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker with AMT Tweeter Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NOA58RS/

AmazonBasics 16-Gauge Speaker Wire - 50 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LW0WDQ/

Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male 22AWG Cable - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0094A1F3S/

If the OP wants even bigger sound then add a powered sub for $100 more (you may want to double up on your 16ga speaker wire for connecting the subwoofer between the stereo speakers and the amp)

Polk Audio PSW10 10-Inch Powered Subwoofer (Single, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KVQBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IEFWBbD0GFQVW

Hello fellow LP120 owner!

Your new turntable comes with a built in preamp, but you still need an amp to amplify the line level audio. Records necessitate a preamp, as the audio level is quite low compared to other sources, (i.e. CD player, iPod). In addition to boosting the audio signal to something your amp can work with, the preamp also applies RIAA equalization which more or less adds back in the low end.

Some of the older amps out there have a specific PHONO input, which is designed to do the same thing a preamp does. Almost all of the new amps on the market have gotten rid of these inputs, as "no one listens to vinyl anymore". You don't need one with a PHONO input though, you just need a good 2-channel amp to power your speakers.

If you don't want to spend much, the Lepai LP 2020 is probably the best bang for your buck. I'm using it right now with these Pioneer bookshelf speakers (very similar to yours) and they sound great. I don't have a recommendation for anything more powerful, but you won't really need anything more powerful unless you go with bigger speakers down the road. Don't forget to grab some speaker wire to wire it all up.

Have fun!

Those are what are called "passive" speakers; they need an amplifier.

You'll also need some speaker wire and a 3.5 mm TRS to stereo RCA cable.

Use the TRS-to-RCA cable to connect the computer's "audio out" to the amplifier's "line in", and use the speaker wire to connect the speakers to the amplifier.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E7H8GG2

Those speakers, with these foam pads to angle them at your ears.

https://www.amazon.com/Sound-Addicted-Isolation-Monitors-Acoustic/dp/B0757LTZJJ

Powered by this amp:

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC

You will also need some speaker wire, and a 3.5mm to RCA adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0WDQ

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66

This setup will surpass any product sold by Logitech, Razer, or any normal set of PC speakers. You can easily add a subwoofer or upgrade the speakers themselves in the future.

In simple terms this is what you will need.

Speakers -> Use Speaker Wire -> Amp

You will need an amp because the speakers are passive and need power (which your tv can't provide). I listed the usual bang for your buck recommendations. In addition it's up to you whether you want to get banana plugs or not, personally it's just easier to stick the wire straight into the speaker. The MB42 has 5-way binding posts that can accept banana plugs, spades, bare straight wire, and bare looped wire.

Now the easy part. You just have to connect your Amp to your tv. You said you only have optical or aux (no rca?). The amp I linked has the option to use either RCA or Aux input. My personal reccomendation is to use the RCA wire over the Aux, if you can.

And for price vs performance, you can't get too much better than the Micca MB42s. It's always highly recommended as one of the best bang for your buck speakers at that price level.

As others have said it makes a huge difference. I love feeling the subtle details as well like engine RPM and gear shifts in my back. It really pulls you in.

Get a butt kicker setup if you don’t like to DIY. Otherwise a cheap setup can be pieced together easily:

Shaker:
Dayton Audio BST-1 High Power Pro Tactile Bass Shaker 50 Watts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDDPJTI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Irj5BbKDNWGTP

Amp:
ONEU Mini amplifier Super Bass Hi-Fi Stereo Audio Amp Booster for Car Moto Home with DC 12V 3A Power Supply, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MBUX40/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Dsj5Bb3JGVQ77

Wire:
AmazonBasics 16-Gauge Speaker Wire - 50 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LW0WDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Gtj5Bb7QK1K9K

Free Software:
https://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/simhub-diy-sim-racing-dash.10252/

If you get him bookshelf speakers like the Q Acoustics suggestion, you'll probably need something to put them on, i.e. speaker stands, unless you've got an unusual amount of room on the stand next to that enormous TV. These can range from pretty affordable to unjustifiably expensive. Just find something that seems stable that you like the looks of. Speaker stands are something you can save a ton of money buying second hand without really having to worry about them being broken or abused, but you might not like gifting something used.

Oh, and if your house is entirely new to this speakers-and-amps thing, make sure you've got some speaker wire. Don't let anyone tell you you need to spend a lot on it. Stuff like this is just fine.

One other question you had was about wall mounting and sound quality--generally speaking nice bookshelves on stands will sound better than something you'd wall mount. In part because you'll have more control over how you place them in the room, and they'll be at ear-level like they should be. And in the case of the Q Acoustics (and many other speakers), there's a port on the back of the speaker that you definitely don't want pressed up against a wall. Basically they need a little room to "breathe".

Now, if he wanted actual IN-wall speakers (where you only see the grill), that's kind a specific and very different thing than what we tend to do around here.

What a great gift idea!

I am replaced mine about 3 months ago with these after using the stock pads for about a year and I can say I am very happy with them. They have minimal sound difference. For me it made it so the sound was just a bit muted and I had to turn the volume up a couple of notches to get the same sound as the stock pads. I believe this is due to the much thicker foam and having the drivers not being so close to my ear. There is some space now where as before my ear would touch the driver slightly and be a bit cramped. These have much more space inside and breathe so I can wear them comfortably for much longer. I wear them for up to 10+hrs at a time with no issues. With the stock pads I would experience discomfort after only a couple of hours. Hope this helps.

Brainwavz Hybrid Memory Foam Earpad - Black PU/Velour - Suitable for Large Over The Ear Headphones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZGGG3KY/ref=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_apa\_Pt8QBbGE6SSAA

Audio-Technica ATH-M50x... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016YJDV74?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share FiiO E10K USB DAC Headphone Amplifier Plus Antlion Audio ModMic 4 Noise-Cancelling Attachable Boom Microphone Mute Switch USB Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CF4BGBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zBv0DbWHP4NFB Brainwavz Hybrid Memory Foam... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZGGG3KY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Is there a difference between your link and this one?

https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Velor-Memory-Replacements-Earpads/dp/B00ZGGG3KY?th=1 (Hybrid Oval version)

It's $5 cheaper and I think the only difference may be that yours is angled?

That's what my buddy said. He suggested these.

I'll have to try different things out.

I digress, but I'm running into other little nuances too, such as me taking a lot of work phone calls and realizing that the seamless transition between music and call on my IconX is super convenient. I just take one bud out and take the call. Now, I find myself switching between the M50 and the IconX to take calls (M50 microphone quality is worse according to my girlfriend and I also hate both ears being covered when talking on the phone; can't hear myself talk).

Regardless, I'm in an exploratory phase and I'm glad this sub is here. Thanks!

For pads I recommend these : some struggling to put them on but they fit just fine.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00ZGGG3KY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But I can see where your mindset is coming from and I understand why it irks you. Personally im a tinkerer and a modder so tweaking things / modding things / spending more money to make things fit just right for me is kind of on part for the course and... almost fun, as silly as it sounds.

I was able to tweak the EQ settings more through fully with Equalizer APO but that might also not be something you'd be willing to do. Im currently using the first profile from this thread : https://www.reddit.com/r/steelseries/comments/65ogu1/best_arctis_7_equalizer_settings/

Get ATH-WS99BT for same price on amazon and add these [earpads] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZGGG3KY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1), then be content you have one of the best sounding headphones, dont even need a amp.

https://www.amazon.com/Steam-Link-pc/dp/B016XBGWAQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518649330&sr=8-1&keywords=steam+link

au pire. C'est typique d'Amazon.ca de charger 5 fois plus cher :p

De toute façon, même à 65$ c'est pas cher pour une solution tout en un

/u/JudaiMustang is right - wired is the way to go.

If for some reason that's entirely impractical for you, maybe check out Steam Link if you're wanting to play games on your TV. Beware that it will not work as well, especially on 2.4GHz wireless.

Steam Link is cheaper on Amazon with free prime shipping my dude

https://www.amazon.com/Steam-Link-pc/dp/B016XBGWAQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1509547174&sr=1-1&keywords=steam+link&dpID=31SX34IRz2L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Amazon US $34.99 Steam Link

You're not going to the response time via AirPlay. You might want to consider getting a Steam Link if you want to stream Steam games from your PC/Mac to your TV.

Steam

GameStop (sale - $19.99)

Amazon (sale - $19.99)

I am not based in the US, so unfortunately, due to regional restrictions, Steam does not allow me to gift any hardware.

However, this item is available on Amazon.com. Are you able to create an amazon wishlist for this?

here

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B016XBGWAQ/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

>https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B016XBGWAQ/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

Awesome, thanks!

Steam link is available from amazon for $15 with prime shipping. Its back ordered though.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B016XBGWAQ/ref=sr_1_1_olp?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1498292376&sr=1-1&keywords=steam+link

I think it's still available from Amazon for $14.99

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B016XBGWAQ

Does this work? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/ol/B016XBGWAQ/ref=mw_dp_olp?ie=UTF8&condition=all

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016XBGWAQ?ref_=mp_s_a_1_1&qid=1504198634&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=steam%20link&pldnSite=1

This link should be non-affiliated.

Half my stuff is wired up with this

You need speaker wire and banana plugs. $18
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=asc_df_B006LW0W5Y5439538/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B006LW0W5Y&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167122786755&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7545833612316399924&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033356&hvtargid=pla-300348225057

Your setup is 3.0. The first number is speakers, the second is subwoofers.

You just cut the wire to length, strip the ends, attach the plugs, it’s easy.


https://kantoaudio.com/tech-tuesday-how-to-connect-speaker-wire-to-a-binding-post/