(Part 2) Best computer internal components according to redditors
We found 69,663 Reddit comments discussing the best computer internal components. We ranked the 11,153 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
FULL SPECS AND LINKS:
PC
Other Stuff
Headphones
HyperX Cloud 2 - $70
Steelseries Arctis 7 - $100
Steelseries Arctis Pro with DAC - $200
Astro A50 - $200
Corsair Void Pro Wireless - $60
HyperX Cloud Stinger - $40
HyperX Cloud Pro - $50
HyperX Cloud Flight - $90
​
Keyboards
Corsair K68 - $80
Corsair K75 Mk.2 - $150
Corsair K95 - $110
Razer Huntsman - $100
HyperX Alloy Core - $30
HyperX Alloy FPS - $80
​
Mice
Steelseries Rival 600 - $50
Logitech G602 - $25
Razer Naga Trinity - $55
Logitech G502 - $35
Razer DeathAdder Elite - $35
​
Monitors
Dell D2719HGF (27", 1080p, 144Hz, Freesync) on sale for $150
Acer ED323QUR (31.5", 1440p, 144Hz, Curved, Freesync) - $270
Acer KG241Q (23.6", 1080p, 144Hz, Freesync) - $188
Acer Nitro VG271 (27", 1080p, 144Hz, Freesync) - $210
Alienware AW3418DW (34", 3440x1440p, Ultrawide, 120Hz Overclocked, G-Sync) - $720
Samsung LC32JG50QQNZA (32", 1440p, 144Hz) - $300
Acer EI491CR (49", 3840x1080p Ultra.. ultrawide?, 144Hz, Freesync) - $700
Acer KB272HL (27", 1080p, up to 75Hz, Freesync) - $115
Dell S3219D (32", 1440p, Freesync) - $220
ViewSonic XG2702 (27", 1080p, 144Hz, Freesync) - $180
​
​
Internal Components
Ryzen 7 2700X - $200
Ryzen Threadripper 2920X- $250Sold OutMSI Armor RX 590 - $180
Sapphire RX 570 4GB - $120
Ballistix Elite 16GB (8GBx2) DDR4 3600 RAM - $105
Corsair H115i RGB Platinum - $105
​
Other
Vive Pro - Up to $200 off
Samsung Galaxy S10 - $600, S10+ is 700
​
Some laptops and desktops on sale too, along with power supplies, routers, wifi extenders, and cases.
​
NOTE: The computer deals are located in two different places. PC Gaming section and PC Component section.
I've hit character limit, if I find more I'll add it underneath this
​
edit: Thank you to the kind redditor who gave me my first gold!
edit2: A silver too?! Thanks!
Full list with links to everything shown here (and some stuff not shown). Please let me know if I've missed anything or if you have any questions.
PC Specs
Item | Make/model | Link | Price
-|-|-|-
Processor| Intel i7-8700k | Amazon | $355
Graphics Card| MSI GEFORCE GTX1080 TI GAMING X 11G| Amazon | $1,000
RAM | G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) 3200 MHZ | Amazon | $90
Motherboard | ASUS ROG Strix Z370-E Gaming | Amazon | $350
SSD | Samsung SSD 960 EVO 1TB NVMe | Amazon | $300
SSD | Samsung 850 EVO 500GB | Amazon | $130
SSD | Samsung 850 EVO 500GB | Amazon | $130
AIO | Corsair H110i V2 | Amazon | $120
Case | Lian Li PC 011 Dynamic | Amazon | $130
PSU | EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G2 | Amazon | $100
Fans | Corsair LL 120 | Amazon | $220
Drawers | Ikea Alex | Ikea | $90
The rest of the stuff
Item | Make/model | Link | Price
-|-|-|-
Desk | Jarvis Bamboo Standing Desk | Jarvis | $752
Chair | Herman Miller Embody | Amazon | $1,400
Monitor | ASUS PG279Q | Amazon | $610
Monitor | ASUS PG279Q | Amazon | $610
Desk Mat | Godspeed Reverse Panda | Novelkeys | $20
Mouse | Glorious Model O Matte White | Glorious | $50
Keyboard | Tofu65 w/ Gateron Browns | KBDFans | $200
Keycaps | MT3 Godspeed | Drop | $150
Dock | Caldigit TS3 | Amazon | $280
Speakers | Audioengine A2+ | Amazon | $300
Speaker Stands | Kanto S6W | Amazon | $60
Webcam | Logitech C922x | Amazon | $83
Monitor Arm | Jarvis Dual Monitor Arm in White | Jarvis | $160
Desk Backlight | Philips Hue Light Strip | Amazon | $90
Main Lights | Nanoleaf Light Panels | Nanoleaf | $550
Headphones | Hyperx Cloud Flight | Amazon | $135
VR | Oculus Quest | Amazon | $500
Headphones | Sony WH1000XM3 | Amazon | $275
Headphones | Master & Dynamic MH40 | Amazon | $250
Wallpaper Engine Link
\ price as configured
\ Some or all items not pictured here but are part of the setup
Just fyi, Amazon is currently matching this price, for those who may prefer Amazon... https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=2700x&qid=1568674452&sr=8-1
If I tell them my dog ate my Bulldog (with 16GB, i7 and graphics card) do you think they'd send me one gratis too?
Warning, big ass list of stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-RM1000x-Modular-Certified-warranty/dp/B015YEI7LK for $130
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-RM750i-Modular-Certified-warranty/dp/B00YPNSQTU for $100
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Gaming-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST4000DX001/dp/B00FQH7MQ2 for $117
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-Single-PC3L-12800-SODIMM-204-Pin/dp/B006YG8X9Y $20.79
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-SODIMM-Memory-System-CT2K8G3S160BM/dp/B008LTBJFW $42.79
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Obsidian-750D-Performance-Tower/dp/B00EB6O4N8 $99.99
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Trackball-Computer-Mouse/dp/B0043T7FXE $20
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE $34
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Gaming-SCIMITAR-Mechanical-Buttons/dp/B019OQJ9XE $60
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Performance-Mouse-Mac/dp/B002HWRJBM $45
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Surround-Theater-External-Speakers/dp/B004M18O60/ $250
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Hyperion-Gaming-Fusion-910-004069/dp/B00LZVNWIA $30
https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset-PS4/dp/B00Y09G6H8 $75
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Surround-Hybrid-Headset-Adapter/dp/B01B1H33WW $60
https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PC-350-Special-2015/dp/B015ZKJIYI $90
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Touchpad-Internet-Connected/dp/B014EUQOGK $18
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U28E590D-28-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor/dp/B00YD3DBOC $300
https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-Portable-External-GP65NB60/dp/B00ODDE33U $20
https://www.amazon.com/Ballistix-PC3-12800-240-Pin-Memory-BLS4KIT8G3D1609DS1S00/dp/B007HAXMGA $96
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-16GBx2-PC4-17000-SODIMM-260-Pin/dp/B015YPB8ME $96
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Dominator-Platinum-3200MHz-PC4-25600/dp/B018GK2G9S $96
https://www.amazon.com/Ballistix-Sport-8GBx2-PC4-19200-288-Pin/dp/B01AG9EZ3M $55 (must-have for a white-themed build)
https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-DOMINATOR-Platinum-3000MHz-Systems/dp/B016BWENUI/ $194
https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-JetFlash-Flash-Drive-TS32GJF790K/dp/B00JKATVUQ $7.50 (32GB)
https://www.amazon.com/PNY-Elite-32GB-Flash-Drive/dp/B01E17L6AK/ $8.50
https://www.amazon.com/PNY-Turbo-Elite-Flash-Drive/dp/B01DWN1CMG/ $12 (64GB)
https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-MicroSDHC-Memory-Adapter-TS32GUSDU1PE/dp/B015J44R0U $7 (32GB)
https://www.amazon.com/PNY-MicroSDXC-Adapter--UHS-I-P-SDU64U185EL-GE/dp/B01G26R7M4 $14 (64GB)
https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-MicroSDXC-Memory-Adapter-TS64GUSDU1PE/dp/B016B6AMFY $14 (64GB)
ALSO
AMD Ryzen 7 2700X $189
https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=ryzen&qid=1574928763&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-1
AMD Ryzen 7 2700 $159
https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B41717Z/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=ryzen&qid=1574929088&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-2
AMD Ryzen 5 2600X $145
https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428V2L/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=ryzen&qid=1574929122&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-7
AMD Ryzen 7 3800X $397
https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-3800X-16-thread-processor/dp/B07SXMZLPJ/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=ryzen&qid=1574929122&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-8
CANCEL REFUND RETURN DO WHAT YOU GOTTA DO AHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
UPDATE:
So after a few hours of testing, the next issue I started to run into was a lot of "poor tracking" issues when connecting to the Inateck.
I started to remove factor by factor trying different cables, different balances (2 sensors on the intateck, 1 and rift on mobo) and so on... still kept getting "poor tracking" after a few minutes. At one point, it got really bad and every single sensor and rift said poor tracking, I was completely lost.
​
Finally I started to strip my testing even more and started to remove any extension cables (CableMatters 3.0) just to be sure those weren't causing issues. I also started to just run 1 sensor on the Inateck and things started to stabilize a bit. Then I added 2... I would get "poor tracking" but on rare occasions. This is still unacceptable.
​
Ultimately, after swapping cables and everything here and there, I finally stabilized by having 2 sensors on the Inateck as 3.0, The rift on my mobo as 3.0 and the last sensor as 2.0. I really think the Inateck isn't capable of more than 1 solid sensor - 2 sensors and it starts to dip here and there. My thoughts on why Oculus recommends this card AND why they now sell the additional sensors with a 2.0 extension cable is to keep cost down and have you running at least at the minimum specs to get up and running.
​
My thoughts after this testing is that if you want to run VR at it's full potential, we need to spend the extra money and get proper USB 3.0 cards with at least 4 individual usb controllers like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-SuperSpeed-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549365944&sr=8-3&keywords=startech.com+4+port+pci+express+pcie+superspeed+usb+3.0
​
I think I may have to just return the Inatek and cough up the difference to get this proper card.
​
Will do further testing tomorrow and will update you guys if I render any new results.
UPDATE 2:
So after about a week or so of testing with the inateck, yes what I stated in the original post is true, sensors on 3.0 use less CPU power but that card simply doesn't seem strong enough for even 2 sensors. I would keep getting poor tracking warnings. I did see a huge improvement on stability when a user suggested putting one sensor in port 1 and the other on port 4. For some reason this worked well. Something about them being further apart that it made the USB traffic not as choked up, but none the less, I'd still occasionally get the poor tracking warnings.
Ultimately after troubleshooting some more and more, the only way to get no warnings was to go back to all sensors on 2.0; but this also meant going back to 17-20% CPU usage...
Because of this, I'm now returning the card and getting the 4 bus StarTech. Its $80 and has individual buses for each port. I will report back when I've tested with this.
For those of you looking to get the StarTech, keep in mind Amazon has different versions for different prices that look identical. Make sure you select the 4 bus version ($80). There is a cheaper 2 bus version that some have said is "enough", but at this point, why bother getting just enough. This new USB adapter will be useful on future PC builds too so it's an investment anyway.
I'm putting this here because I don't want to flood the main sub with what I'm able to find. So here goes:
Headphones| Price
:--|:--
[ATH-M50x Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR86/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757226&sr=1-1&keywords=headphones) |$150 in cart. $250-$300 everywhere else I check
[Sennhieser HD 598 SR Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Sennheiser-HD-598-SR-Open-Back/dp/B06WRMZZ45/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757356&sr=1-1&keywords=hd+598) |$109 Record low
[Audio-Technica ATH-M40x Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499758834&sr=1-6&keywords=bose) |$180 - $38 = $141
[August EP650-Bluetooth headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/August-EP650-Bluetooth-Wireless-Headphones-Leather/dp/B00F54Y6GU/ref=sr_1_2?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499759484&sr=1-2&keywords=headphones)| Was $99, now $58
[August EP640 Bluetooth Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/August-EP640-Rechargeable-built-Smartphones/dp/B00MHOFR78/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499772544) |was $80, now $37
[Prime Day Bluedio T2S Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Bluedio-Shooting-Bluetooth-headphones-wireless/dp/B00Q2VIW9M/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499759635&sr=1-4&keywords=bluetooth) | Was $20, $21 in cart no tax
Prime Day Bluedio V Headphones | was $200, $140 in cart no tax
[AUSDOM ANC 7 Bluetooth noise cancelling] (https://www.amazon.ca/Cancelling-Headphones-AUSDOM-Bluetooth-Comfortable/dp/B01LZ7Q5R1/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499808109&sr=1-4&keywords=aptx) | was $100, now $50. Well reviewed!
[Sony Extra bass bluetooth headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Sony-MDRXB950B1-Extra-Headphone-Model/dp/B01N5UVZBP) | was $200, now $99
Earbuds| Price
:--|:--
[Aukey Arcs Bluetooth Sport] (https://www.amazon.ca/AUKEY-Bluetooth-Headphones-Microphone-Sweatproof/dp/B01EWUP4NQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499804815&sr=1-4&keywords=headphones)| was $24, now $14
[1MORE Triple Driver earbuds] (https://www.amazon.ca/1MORE-Headphones-Earphones-Compatible-Microphone/dp/B01KB9K9Z0/ref=lp_17037466011_1_4?srs=17037466011&ie=UTF8&qid=1499766067&sr=8-4&th=1) | Was $131, $106 in cart
Bluetooth misc| Price
:--|:--
[Anker Premium Stereo Bluetooth 4.0 Speaker ] (https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-Bluetooth-Subwoofers-Portable-Wireless/dp/B0107WH8Q4/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499800448&sr=1-6&keywords=subwoofer) | was $130, now $60
[Trond bluetooth receiver] (https://www.amazon.ca/TROND-Bluetooth-Receiver-Headphones-Speakers/dp/B01M9I0LSK/) | Was $25, now $20. I have one its awesome
[Altman Bluetooth Transmitter/receiver] (https://www.amazon.ca/ALTMAN-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Wireless/dp/B06Y25PGBG/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499803431&sr=1-1&keywords=aptx) |was $43, now $26
CPU Coolers| Price
:--|:--
[CORSAIR Hydro Series H100i v2 Extreme ] (https://www.amazon.ca/CORSAIR-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-CW-9060025-WW/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757440&sr=1-1&keywords=corsair) |$110. Historic [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/CrDzK8/corsair-cpu-cooler-cw9060025ww)
[Corsair Hydro Series H115i Extreme Performance] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-CW-9060027-WW/dp/B019955RNQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499756838&sr=1-3&keywords=corsair) |$155 (temporarily out of stock)
[MasterLiquid Pro 240 All-In-One] (https://www.amazon.ca/MasterLiquid-Technology-Chamber-MasterFan-Radiator/dp/B01E5XNP5Y/ref=lp_16927652011_1_24?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499766384&sr=1-24) | was $140, now $95 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sqmxFT/cooler-master-cpu-cooler-mlyd24ma20mbr1)
PSU| Price
:--|:--
[Corsair CS650M] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Modular-Efficient-Supply-CS650M/dp/B00GH9NA2I/ref=sr_1_11?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757999&sr=1-11&keywords=corsair) |$110. Not the lowest but okay
[EVGA SuperNOVA 550 G3] (https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0550-Y1/dp/B01LWTS2UL/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499759891&sr=1-1&keywords=evga)| Was $130, now $99 [historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sMM323/evga-supernova-g3-550w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-220-g3-0550)
Cases| Price
:--|:--
[Corsair 780T full atx case] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Graphite-780T-Full-Tower/dp/B00LA6POK4) | $189 in cart. Not an [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sNJwrH/corsair-case-cc9011063ww) but not bad
[Corsair Carbide 400C white] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-CC-9011095-WW-Carbide-Compact-Mid-Tower/dp/B01F97W9ZM/ref=sr_1_12?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499813131&sr=1-12&keywords=corsair) |$105 in cart
HDD| Price
:--|:--
[Seagate Backup Plus Hub 8TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-External-Desktop-Storage-STEL8000100/dp/B01HD6ZLQ6/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499758359&sr=1-3&keywords=hdd) | $270 - 51 = $219
[Seagate 4TB BarraCuda Pro ] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST4000DM006/dp/B01MSW4MNS/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499758359&sr=1-4&keywords=hdd)|$245-75 = $170 [Historic low!] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/qRtWGX/seagate-barracuda-pro-4tb-35-7200rpm-internal-hard-drive-st4000dm006)
[Seagate Backup Plus 4TB Portable] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0196J43TE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1) | Was $160, now $135 [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/NyQRsY/seagate-backup-plus-4tb-external-hard-drive-stdr4000100)
[Seagate Firecuda 2TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M1NHCZT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)| was $126, now $85 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/zk7CmG/seagate-firecuda-2tb-25-5400rpm-internal-hard-drive-st2000lx001)
[Seagate Firecuda 1TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-Firecuda-2-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000LX015/dp/B01LWRTRZU/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499767750&sr=1-1&keywords=ssd) | was $83, now $60 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/w6x9TW/seagate-firecuda-1tb-25-5400rpm-hybrid-internal-hard-drive-st1000lx015)
Input Devices| Price
:--|:--
[Logitech G13 input pad] (https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE/ref=sr_1_21?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499761901&sr=1-21&keywords=board+games) | Was $75, now $55 [Historic Low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/jbvZxr/logitech-keyboard-920000946)
[Corsair Gaming K70 LUX RGB MX Brown] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlit/dp/B01ER4B7YM/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499770080&) | was $180, now $160 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/34M323/corsair-k70-lux-rgb-wired-gaming-keyboard-ch-9101012-na)
Networking| Price
:--|:--
[NETGEAR Nighthawk X8 AC5300 Router] (https://www.amazon.ca/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Tri-Band-Quad-Stream-R8500-100CNS/dp/B01A85Y9TE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499760240&sr=8-1&keywords=NETGEAR+Nighthawk+X8+AC5300)| was $499, now $290
[TP-Link AC3200 Tri band router] (https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Tri-Band-Beamforming-Archer-C3200/dp/B00YY3XSSA/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499760450&sr=1-3&keywords=modem) | Was $249, now $175
[Netgear 16-Port Gigabit Switch] (https://www.amazon.ca/Netgear-16-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B01AX8XHRQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499760948&sr=1-6&keywords=ethernet) | Was $106, now $75 in cart
MISC| Price
:--|:--
[Logitech C922x Webcam] (https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-Stream-Webcam-Streaming-960-001176/dp/B01LXCDPPK/ref=sr_1_5?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499760799&sr=1-5&keywords=computer) | was $130, now $89. All time low
[Acer KG251Q 1080p Freesync monitor] (https://www.amazon.ca/Acer-KG251Q-bmiix-FREESYNC-Technology/dp/B06X6HJ1SF/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499762804&sr=1-6&keywords=monitor) | Was $230, now $170
[M9S PRO android tv box] (https://www.amazon.ca/Leelbox-M9S-Pro-Android-6-0/dp/B01MD0NZPK/ref=sr_1_2?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499767387) | Was $130, $98 in cart
[Cyberpower 600w UPS] (https://www.amazon.ca/CyberPower-CP1000PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N192/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499803529&sr=1-1&keywords=ups) | was $224, now $125
I'll try to keep tabs on everything but let me know if there are any errors or price updates. And as a side note, I'm actually getting downvotes for this? I can't see how there could possibly be a sane explanation for that.
 
EDIT: Updated 7:00pm EST!! Let me know if there's anything you see and I'll put it in here!
 
EDIT: I've put everything new as of Jan 11, 4:00pm in bold. Also, check this post on RedFlagDeals for a great big list of deal
 
EDIT: Its all over everyhone. Hope you snagged something cool beyond bitter disappointment this year!**
 
$130 - Sennheiser HD 599 SE Special Edition, Black
$130 - Sennheiser HD 4.50 Special Edition, Bluetooth Wireless Headphone with Active Noise Cancellation, Black
​
$541 - HKC 34'' (3440x1440p) 21:9 Ultrawide 100hz Curved Freesync VA Panel 8ms GTG Rebranded Viotek GN34C, I think it's a Samsung CF791 Panel
$870 - Samsung LC34J791WTNXZA 34" 3440x1440 100Hz QLED 21:9 VA Freesync Thunderbolt 3
$115 - ViewSonic VX2257-MHD 22 Inch 75Hz 2ms 1080p TN
$650 - Samsung 32" QLED 1440p 144Hz HDR 600 WQHD Curved Gaming Monitor Freesync 2 VA
$315 - LG 27GL650F-B 27" 144hz IPS HDR 10 Freesync
$165 - AOPEN 24HC1QR Pbidpx 23.6" 1080p 144hz 1800R Curved FreeSync 4ms VA
$320 - AOPEN 32HC1QUR Pbidpx 31.5" (2560x1440) 144Hz 1800R Curved VA 4ms Freesync Ships within 1-3 months
$260 - ViewSonic VX3276-2K-MHD 32 Inch 1440p IPS Frameless
​
$270 - AMD Ryzen 7 2700X
$765 - AMD Ryzen Threadripper 2950X
​
$200 - Toshiba X300 8TB Hard Drive 7200 RPM 128MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5 Inch
$120 - Toshiba NAS N300 4TB NAS 3.5-Inch Internal Hard Drive- SATA 6 Gb/s 7200 RPM 128MB
$315 - Toshiba NAS N300 10TB NAS 3.5-Inch Internal Hard Drive- SATA 6 Gb/s 7200 RPM 256MB
$80 - Seagate FireCuda 2TB SSHD 2.5 Inch SATA
$57/96/186 - XPG GAMMIX 256/512GB/1TB S11 Pro 3D NAND PCIe NVMe Gen3x4 M.2 2280 SSD
$106 - Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD
$107 - Crucial BX500 960GB 3D NAND SATA 2.5-Inch Internal SSD
$242 - Crucial MX500 2TB 3D NAND SATA 2.5 Inch SSD
$104 - Toshiba Canvio Advance 4TB Portable External Hard Drive USB 3.0, White
$120 - WD Elements 6TB USB 3.0 External HDD Color Black WDBWLG0060HBK-NESN
$95 - Samsung 860 EVO 500GB 2.5" SATA III SSD
​
$81 - Ballistix Sport LT 16GB Kit (2x8GB) DDR4 3000 MT/s (PC4-24000) CL15 SR Gray
$137 - Ballistix Elite 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR4 3600 MT/s (PC4-28800) CL16 SR Ships within 1-2 months
$73 - Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (4x4GB) DDR4 3000 CL16 Black Non-prime, ships within 1-3 months
​
Other Components
$110 - DEEPCOOL Castle 240 RGB Liquid CPU Cooler Non-prime
$170 - Corsair H115i 280mm RGB Platinum AIO Liquid CPU Cooler
$35 - Deepcool RF120 3-Pack 120mm RGB PWM Fans with Fan Hub and Extension Non-prime
$805 - ZOTAC Gaming GeForce RTX 2080 Twin Fan 8GB
$198 - Gigabyte Z390 AORUS PRO ATX Motherboard
$120 - Corsair RM750x 80 Plus Gold Fully Modular ATX PSU CP-9020179-NA
$170 - Corsair HX850i High Performance 80+ Platinum Fully Modular ATX PSU
$60 - Corsair Fan Controller Commander Pro CL-9011110-WW
​
$33 - Logitech G602 Wireless Gaming Mouse
$40 - Logitech G403 Prodigy Wired Gaming Mouse
$50 - Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum RGB Tunable Gaming Mouse
$50 - Razer DeathAdder Elite: True 16,000 5G Optical Sensor
$64 - SteelSeries Rival 600 Gaming Mouse, 12,000 CPI TrueMove3+ Dual Optical Sensor
$55 - Logitech MX Master 2S Wireless Mouse, Graphite Ships within 1-2 months
$22 - NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch
$25 - HyperX Double Shot Black & White Pudding PBT Keycaps - 104 Mechanical Keycap Set for Cherry MX
$30 - Corsair mm350 Anti-Fray Cloth Gaming Mouse Pad Extended XL
$10.50 - SteelSeries QcK Gaming Surface - Medium Cloth
$23 - SteelSeries QcK Gaming Surface - Medium Hard
$135 - Razer Huntsman: Opto-Mechanical Switch
$55 - Logitech C920 Webcam HD Pro (960-000764)
​
$10.91 - AmazonBasics AAA High-Capacity Rechargeable Batteries (8-Pack) Pre-charged 850mAh
$12.48 - AmazonBasics AAA Rechargeable Batteries (12-Pack) 800mAh
$18.89 - AmazonBasics AA High-Capacity Rechargeable Batteries (8-Pack) Pre-charged 2400mAh
$1.49 - Oreos and other snacks :)
Would it not be more worth to just get ryzen 3600 for 10$ more?
>so i expect 9900k to be priced minimum 150-180% more than 2700x.
In what country? TPU writes mostly for an US audience.
9900K - $530 on Amazon
2700K - $295 on Amazon
So the price difference is 80% in US, so TPU messed up even in US where the prices are close to MRSP.
In Germany, sure, the prices are inflated but they should drop down to MRSP in 1-2 months.
9900K - €700
2700X - €318
In Germany the difference is 120%.
Intel doesnt make that cpu anymore, its not up to Intel, ask retailers.
​
And to answer it, because people pay for it for upgrades.
​
For most things the 3600 is a sidegrade from a 7700k, but yeah id get the 3600 instead.
​
Would you buy an fx8350 for $210?
AMD cpus are on door crasher prices
AMD Ryzen 5 3600X $229
https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-3600X-12-thread-processor/dp/B07SQBFN2D/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=RYZEN&qid=1574929243&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-6
AMD Ryzen 7 2700X $189
https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=ryzen&qid=1574928763&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-1
AMD Ryzen 7 2700 $159
https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B41717Z/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=ryzen&qid=1574929088&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-2
AMD Ryzen 5 2600X $145
https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428V2L/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=ryzen&qid=1574929122&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-7
AMD Ryzen 7 3800X $397
https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-3800X-16-thread-processor/dp/B07SXMZLPJ/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=ryzen&qid=1574929122&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-8
All Amazon Links:
Ryzen 9 3900x
Ryzen 7 3800x
Ryzen 7 3700x
Ryzen 5 3600x
Ryzen 5 3600
Ryzen 3 3200G
Amazon is selling it at
the same price.169.99Edit: price went up :(
All of it: http://www.amazon.com/AMD-FD8350FRHKBOX-FX-8350-FX-Series-Edition/dp/B009O7YUF6
Have an upvote, some people don't know and that's fine. So I'll explain.
Gigabyte 980 Ti = GPU(grapics card), it handles the graphics of the game, OP was asking how much vram or memory his graphics card needs.
i7 6700k # 4.0ghz CPU(Central Processing Unit) It does what it sounds like, processes all computations for your computer other than gpu. The 4.6ghz means he overclocked it making it go faster.
With that being said, the CPU he used is the latest generation CPU, not necessarily the most expensive or fastest, but pretty close. His GPU is a tier below the best you can get in terms of gaming GPU's for now(close to every year something better and faster gets released). So in short, he's got close to the best you can get for gaming and in all probably cost close to or over $2000. It's what we call and Enthusiast build, it's better then probably 80%(I'm guessing) of what other PC gamers are using.
He mentions he is getting an average of 30FPS which means 30 frames per second. This is what most gamers consider the bare minimum of frames to play games enjoyably without stutter or the picture freezing. Ideally gamers prefer 60FPS or higher, but as this game(with his mod and ULTRA settings) demands quite a bit out of the hardware(GPU, CPU ect) it is unable to achieve that and plays at a playable 30Fps.
TL;DR: He's got close to the best hardware you can get.
I'm updating as I go. Give me a second guys. Difference in savings is based on camelcamelcamel.com average on an item & sorry the links are all Smile links since I have Smile Always enabled.
Edit: Just caught a CP 870 Snorlax.
RAM | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Corsair Dominator Platinum Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3200MHz | $95.99 | Link | $41.01 | n/a
CORSAIR DOMINATOR Platinum Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz | $193.99 | Link | $85 | n/a
Crucial 32GB Kit (16GBx2) DDR4 2133 MT/s (PC4-17000) SODIMM 260-Pin Memory | $95.99 | Link | $40.69 | n/a
Ballistix Sport 32GB Kit (8GBx4) DDR3 1600 MT/s (PC3-12800) CL9 @1.5V UDIMM 240-Pin Memory | $95.87 | Link | $44.14 | n/a
Crucial 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR3L 1600 SODIMM Memory for Mac System | $42.79 | Link | $16.54 | n/a
Crucial 8GB Single DDR3L 1600 MT/s (PC3L-12800) SODIMM 204-Pin Memory | $20.79 | Link | $9.70 | n/a
Monitors | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Samsung U28E590D 28-Inch UHD LED-Lit Monitor | $441.85 | Link | $4.84 | n/a
PSU | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Corsair RMx Series, RM1000x, 1000W, Fully Modular Power Supply, 80+ Gold Certified, 10 year warranty | $129.99 | Link | $35.57 | n/a
Corsair RMi Series, RM750i, 750 Watt (750W), Fully Modular Power Supply, 80+ Gold Certified, 10 year warranty | $99.99 | Link | $20.23 | n/a
HDD | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Seagate 4TB Gaming SSHD(Solid State Hybrid Drive) SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive | $116.99 | Link | $26.84 | n/a
Headsets | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
HyperX Cloud II Gaming Headset | $85.10 | Link | $7 | n/a
Sennheiser PC 350 Special Edition 2015 | $89.99 | Link | $65.53 | n/a
Corsair VOID Surround Hybrid Stereo Gaming Headset with Dolby 7.1 | $59.99 | Link | $14.12 | n/a
Case | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Corsair Obsidian Series 750D Performance Full Tower Case | $99.99 | Link | $46.79 | n/a
Keyboards | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Logitech G13 Programmable Gameboard with LCD Display | $38.99 | Link | $20.56 | n/a
Logitech Wireless Touch Keyboard K400 Plus | $31.73 | Link | -$1.84 (lol) | I already own this. AMA?
Mice | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Logitech M570 Wireless Trackball | $19.99 | Link | $10.69 | n/a
Logitech Wireless Performance Mouse MX | $66.02 | Link | -$4.62 | n/a
Corsair Gaming SCIMITAR RGB MOBA/MMO Gaming Mouse | $59.99 | Link | $14 | n/a
Logitech G402 Hyperion Fury FPS Gaming Mouse | $43.00 | Link | $3.04 | n/a
Flash Memory | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Transcend 32GB JetFlash 790 USB 3.0 Flash Drive | $7.49 | Link | $4.40 | n/a
PNY Elite X 32GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive | $8.49 | Link | ~$5 | n/a
PNY Turbo Elite 64GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive | $11.99 | Link | $3 | n/a
Transcend 32GB MicroSDHC Class 10 UHS-1 Memory Card with Adapter | $6.99 | Link | $13.61 | n/a
PNY Elite 64GB MicroSDXC Card with Adapter | $13.99 | Link | $3 | n/a
Transcend 64GB MicroSDXC Class 10 UHS-1 Memory Card with Adapter | $13.99 | Link | $16.63 | n/a
Temp (Title) | Temp (Price) | Temp (link) | Temp (Savings) | n/a
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B019EXSSBG
> AM4 bracket not included. Please visit the Ryzen page on the Corsair website to order a free AM4 retention bracket.
> Compatibility -Intel™ LGA 1150, 1151, 1155, 1156, 1366, 2011 and 2011-3 AMD™ sockets FM1, FM2, AM2, AM3, and AM4
1060 6GB is probably the best bang for your (300) bucks. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IPVSLTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_qhF-Ab1NSMRH5
What are your other parts / what games/resolution/FPS do you use?
3900X: https://www.amazon.de/AMD-Ryzen-3900x-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07SXMZLP9/ref=sr_1_1?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=3900x+amd&qid=1562017893&s=gateway&sr=8-1
3800X: https://www.amazon.de/AMD-Ryzen-3800x-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07SXMZLPJ/ref=sr_1_2?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=3800x+amd&qid=1562017903&s=gateway&sr=8-2
3700X: https://www.amazon.de/AMD-Ryzen-3700x-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07SXMZLPK/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=3700x+amd&qid=1562017931&s=gateway&sr=8-3
3600X: https://www.amazon.de/AMD-Ryzen-3600x-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07SQBFN2D
3600: https://www.amazon.de/AMD-Ryzen-3600-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07STGGQ18
3200G: https://www.amazon.de/AMD-Ryzen-3200G-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07STGHZK8
2700X is also on sale for 344.99
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07B428M7F/?coliid=I3ATFRHNLJDDKN&colid=3GMNUT8HR28VH&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Likewise, they don't list it in their Amazon entries either:
More info here, including a working PCI-E card:
https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/3zrtgs/psa_your_usb_30_ports_may_not_be_compatible_with/
Basically it looks like Intel and Fresco controllers are good. That throws a lot of motherboards more than a couple years old out of contention.
Amazon links for your convenience:
Note: technically any of the powered inateck ones should work since they all use Fresco controllers, but note that the 2 port one only gives you the extra front panel ports if your case supports that. It's safest to get one of the versions with 4 or 5 ports on the back. I can confirm the 5 port+20pin version passes the test for me.
Also same price on Amazon
The eligible resellers are:
Corsair H100i v2 for $85 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YxjzzbWCJ5DGK
As far as bang for your buck, I think the Hyper 212+ is a better buy. It's about two-thirds of the price of the Hyper 212 Evo and you'll only see a minimal benefit with the Evo (which is from the better fan, if I recall correctly).
You really can't go wrong with either cooler but if you're already over budget or need to save a few dollars somewhere, I'd say the 212+ is a better buy - especially if you're only doing some conservative overclocking.
All I can say is I have a 2700x for a year and a half now and i am impressed with it... this price is a pretty decent price for 8c/16t at 4.3ghz
You can find it cheaper on amazon at £193
AMD Ryzen 7 2700X Processor with Wraith Prism RGB LED Cooler - YD270XBGAFBOX https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DNMKDbRVRF0KZ
fixed this on mine just by reducing the camera bandwith to the second or third lowest notch. the built in usb hub in the headset is trying to push data from 2 controllers, and the video of the camera to the computer, and since a large percentage of usb controllers on motherboards arent really providing the needed overall bandwidth, despite being usb 3, you get tracking issues. also, usb 2 provides better performance, you should switch to that if you are using usb 3. the chipsets with non optimal performance were already ID´d by oculus, they offered a link to amazon to a pci express usb3 controller which works most likely with the full camera bandwidth on the vive.
crappy chipsets:
Texas Instruments USB 3.0 xHCI
Etron USB 3.0 Extensible Host Controller
VIA USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller - 1.0 (Microsoft)
ASMedia USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller
ASMedia XHCI Controller
Renesas USB 3.0 eXtensible-Hostcontroller
proposed fix:
http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00PAFDW3M
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Express-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B00FPIMJEW
Inventory:
pfSense:
Snort, pfBlockerNG, OpenVPN, Squid, ClamAV, Default deny ingress/egress FW, etc.
ZOTAC ZBOX NUC
Kingston 120GB SSD
Crucial 8GB DDR3L RAM
ESXi Hypervisor:
Skull Canyon NUC
32GB DDR4 RAM
Samsung 950 Pro 512GB M.2 SSD
Virtual Machines I'm currently running.
Splunk - Receives my FW, DNS, Snort, and OSSEC logs. I have dashboards to filter this data.
Snorby - Also receives my Snort logs. I like this a little better than Splunk as I can view packet contents.
OSSEC - I used this for file integrity and endpoint monitoring on my servers and desktop. Functions as a host based IDS.
Nessus - I use this every once in a while to see if there are any open holes. Otherwise, I just use nmap and iptables to close everything off.
Unifi Controller - for managing my AP.
Wireless:
Ubiquiti Unifi AP-AC Lite
Switch:
TP-LINK 8-Port Gigabit L2 Switch
RetroPi + Monitor:
RPi3
10.1 Inch IPS HDMI Monitor
My VMs, configs, and files are backed up to a HDD I keep offline. I'm thinking about adding a NAS into the mix for somewhere around 200-400 dollars. Low energy consumption preferably if anyone had any recommendations. :)
Tons of threads like this, so take some time to browse this sub. Also a lot of good info in this sub's wiki In either case here's my quick and dirty off the top of my head in no particular order/level of detail, also some things are just my subjective opinion:
Everyone's experience varies. If its smooth sailing for you then awesome. If you run into problems, don't stress and take the time to search on this sub for answers. VR is amazing, hope you enjoy it.
Below the historic low on amazon. Damn, now this is a deal. Nice find!
Still satisfied with my $275 R5-1600 but at these prices, would probably have bought the r7 instead.
1700 -$25 Below historic low
1700x - Equal to historic low
1800 - $75 Below historic low
Same on Amazon with same day for major regions and Prime.
I would like to second some of the other people here.
Despite knowing this is the Intel subreddit, since you have to replace your motherboard anyways, you might find it worthwhile instead looking at AMD's Ryzen platform. A 2600 ($15 cheaper), 2600X (same price as the 9400f) or 3600 ($50 more) may prove a more worthwhile buy.
It would help more to know exactly what your usecase is, but, going for Ryzen should be the correct choice in the price range of that 9400f in more circumstances than the 9400f would be. Also take into account that the Ryzen CPUs are all unlocked and may be overclocked whereas only K-SKU's on Intel may be.
I hope that this gave you some more insight!
Delivery is currently 15 July.
I got you:
https://primenow.amazon.com/dp/B01MXSI216?qid=1494013404&m=A1VPEJV7O66L91&sr=1-0&ref_=pn_sr_sg_0_img_A1VPEJV7O66L91
This is actually kind of dangerous...
So basically $10 more than a real GTX 1060 with video output and 3 year warranty? Looks like a good deal to me. No warranty and no video output for $10 more.
edit: unless you want dual fans, then they are around $240. so $30 more for video output and warranty.
Wait, you bought an i3-8100 7 days ago for $130?! Or last year? Not that it'd be any better.
With all due respect dude, you got what you deserve for not properly researching. For the same price or a tiny bit more this year you could've gotten:
Ryzen 5 2600X = £119
Ryzen 7 1700 = £126 (used)
Probably loads of used 4th/5th gen i7's that'd blow the 8100 out of the water for the same price.
R7 1700 w/ Wraith Cooler..
I flaired this as Sale since it looks like so far that Amazon is the only major retailer to have lowered the prices..
It's a good version of the RX570 at a decent price. You can get it a little cheaper (£122) here, but some people have had dodgy dealings with Laptops Direct.
There's another option here for a Gigabyte card with 8GB memory for the same price (£130) but comes with 8GB VRAM instead of 4. It should be a better performing card in VRAM hungry games.
The Sapphire card you posted (your link doesn't work, but I assume you mean this one) is definitely a good quality card. The Gigabyte one is a bit less so (some people hate Gigabyte cards).
Realistically it's about value. You want the best value for your money. It may help to know your budget, what games you want to play and at what settings as well as what the other components of your system are/will be to make a firm recommendation.
If you can find another £30, you can get some 8GB RX580's like this one. On the other hand, if you just want to play Hearthstone, League of Legends and Minecraft, you may be able to save money buy not getting a graphics card and going with an AMD APU like the 3400G.
Why a 570 or 1060 (3GB) when an RX580 with GDDR5 and 8 GB of VRAM is 150-200 USD and beats both in basically all cats?
https://www.amazon.com/XFX-Radeon-1386MHz-Graphics-RX-580P8DFD6/dp/B06Y66K3XD/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549751694&sr=8-3&keywords=rx+580
https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/AMD-RX-580-vs-Nvidia-GTX-1060-3GB/3923vs3646
https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/AMD-RX-580-vs-AMD-RX-570/3923vs3924
I bought this RX 580 back in February for $190 (it's even cheaper now) and I LOVE it.
Both of those cards have only a single USB controller. If you have no USB3 ports, you need a card with more controllers to handle the bandwidth of the Rift + sensors. This card is a little more expensive, but each USB3 port has its own controller, giving you 4 times the bandwidth.
EDIT2: Só como referencia: iMac i7 comprado pelo governo, segue o baile comparando com o PC montado e este meu comentario US$1.200,00 de diferença.
O preço do iMac é exagerado até la fora: iMac top de linha i5
Quem entende de computadores sabe que você monta um PC MELHOR por um preço bem menor: Top de linha no MINIMO 5x mais forte, e o mesmo preço. Na verdade, um exagero, porque montei com as melhores peças no mercado atualmente. Poderia até ter poupado mais e aproveitado o quad-channel do ram na placa mãe, que seria melhor e mais barato, só quis ser overkill.
Os produtos Apple são overpriced em QUALQUER mercado, só ver a linha de ultrabooks deles por 2k dolares e os concorrentes pelo mesmo valor (Razer Blade).
EDIT: link talvez tenha problemas, então eis os itens:
Somando US$2.100,30
Just want to give an alternative, much cheaper option that will perform very well and within touching distance of all the games you've listed.
Source. They test it against the i5-9600K. Which is again very close to the i7-9700K in gaming which is suggested by /u/aleks_1999 as can be seen here.
PCPartPicker Part List
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor | €196.89 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard | €120.72 @ Amazon Deutschland
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | €74.90 @ Amazon Deutschland
| Prices include shipping, taxes and discounts |
| Total | €402.61
| Generated by Kiwiandapple |
The warning that it needs a BIOS upgrade can be ignored. MSI their "MAX" motherboards are out of the box ready for Ryzen 3000 series.
the smallest I know off the top of my head is the bitty-baby 40mm
It's actually one of the 8 pieces from the noctua fan. Mine fell off too.
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DZ6R9GE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501960395&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=evga+power+supply+500w&dpPl=1&dpID=4158jP7Q8kL&ref=plSrch
Cpu is good.
Cpu cooler: https://www.alternate.co.uk/Cryorig/H7/html/product/1174912
That one will have better cooling at the same price.
Motherboard: You should get a Z170 board so you can overclock. If you don't want to overclock, then don't get the 6600k and a custom cooler, and instead get the 6500, and use the stock cooler on that.
Storage: perfectly fine
Video Card: As others have said, replace it will the RX 480.
PSU: Swapped it out for a slightly better psu,
https://www.amazon.co.uk/EVGA-100-B1-0500-KR-Bronze-Power-Supply/dp/B00DZ6R9GE/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1465052059&sr=1-2&keywords=evga%5D+500
If you can afford it, go for this psu
https://www.amazon.co.uk/EVGA-SuperNova-Fully-Modular-Supply/dp/B0141B21JG/ref=sr_1_4?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1465052095&sr=1-4&keywords=evga+b2
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-3600-12-Thread-Processor/dp/B07STGGQ18/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=3600&qid=1564268680&s=gateway&sr=8-1
No, do NOT buy the third card. If you're interested in getting a single fan EVGA card, pick up this one instead
Its basically the same card, but with MUCH superior cooling. Don't save a few bucks on cheap cooling.
If you don't care about the games, amazon is selling it for $289.99 [I7 7700k from Amazon ](intel 7th gen intel core desktop processor i7-7700k (bx80677i77700k) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXSI216/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_WzTdAbN9CG8BE)
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Desktop-Processor-i7-7700K-BX80677I77700K/dp/B01MXSI216
Buy one then. You don't have to buy AMD.
Just paid 255$ for this on sale three weeks ago.
Edit:
Amazon slashed it down to 229.99$ as well here
Found the 2700x at a really good price https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428M7F&ved=2ahUKEwjn9dqbsLbjAhVQCM0KHZp6CV0QFjABegQIBRAB&usg=AOvVaw3njZuyzCX9wLaRk7SYlU04
This seems like the perfect excuse to upgrade to a Hyper 212.
I think this is slightly below MSRP and according to Camelcamelcamel, this is the lowest it's been on Amazon: https://ca.camelcamelcamel.com/AMD-Ryzen-3600-12-thread-processor/product/B07STGGQ18
That's amazon.com, not .ca - USD I believe. $425 CDN:
https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Cooler-YD1700BBAEBOX/dp/B06WP5YCX6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496666166&sr=8-1&keywords=AMD+Ryzen+7+1700+Processor+with+Wraith+Spire
AMD Ryzen 7 2700X Processor with Wraith Prism LED Cooler - YD270XBGAFBOX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jsmlDbXZ0G0GB
$199 for prime members for y'all who didnt get this one.
Just so you're aware, it's $199 on Amazon right now: AMD Ryzen 7 2700X Processor with Wraith Prism LED Cooler - YD270XBGAFBOX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vx8CDbMW5RSN6
Don't know if people will be jumping to save 10%
Edit: seems he sold it, but doesnt say how much, for reference was listed at $180.
You forgot Canada. it’s $258 here
Ryzen 7 2700x
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?crid=3BLVNK9MEKAJ6&keywords=ryzen+7+2700x&qid=1554365011&s=gateway&sprefix=ryzen+&sr=8-8
I5 9600k
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i5-9600K-Desktop-Processor-Unlocked/dp/B07HHLX1R8/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=9600k&qid=1554365063&s=gateway&sr=8-8
Shitty image.
Just finished building the $350 24-thread powerhouse, with a few minor adjustments. I picked up the Thermaltake F31 instead, as I really wanted a non-LED case, and this one has sound-dampening material which cuts down on the dual CPU fan noise.
I also had to pick up an EPS splitter since the 650 only has one. Would have been better to go with the EVGA 750 for power instead, as that has everything this motherboard needs.
Had 24GB of RAM from an old desktop build, so I didn't need to buy that. HDD is a 256GB Crucial M100, and have 10TB of spinning rust for larger amounts of data storage.
Media is stored on a DroboFS w/ 5 x 4TB WD Reds.
If I were doing it all over again, I'd also replace the CPU fans with Cooler Master 212s, as the Intel ones are so large (and square), that they overlap with one another and I needed to remove the fan shield in order to get them to fit.
Currently running Plex, SteamCache, DNS, and a few other things, all running via Docker and provisioned via Ansible.
Don't know the difference but the H100i v2 is $94.99 on amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019EXSSBG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
No, that PC is not enough to run Rust.
I see your budget appears to be very low, I'll give you a better suggestion.
At your price range, I'd suggest buying an older prebuilt, (sometimes colleges give their old PC's away for ridiculously cheap prices. You might be able to snag one there) but I'll give you a link to Amazon for one.
I would get this as it has an older I5, which even given its age, should do fine for Rust, and then upgrade it to suit your needs.
You also want 16GB of RAM if possible. The game has frequent stuttering on 8GB or even 12GB
This would probably be a good option, overclock it if possible
You're going to need a GPU. If you want to play it safe and go brand new. An RX 580 would be just fine for playing this game, hell you could probably do fine with a worse GPU. They regularly go on sale for under $200. $200 should be the absolute maximum you buy this card for.
If you have to go used, I'd suggest a GTX 770 if you want to save a bit of cash. The card should also be just fine for Rust, I'd try to snag anything used from the U.S to reduce the odds of being scammed (It's a huge business in cards made in the China area, unfortunately)
The last thing you will need is a new Power Supply, as the one that comes with the prebuilt sucks.
This Specific Power Supply should do you just fine. EVGA makes some of the best stuff out there when it comes to a power supply.
​
If you don't feel qualified to do any of the modifications to the PC required, just look up how to do it. There are plenty of great guides out there for that sort of thing. Shoot me a DM if you want to know anything else.
Hm. GPU is 189€ with Amazon prime here in Germany. https://www.amazon.de/dp/B06Y66K3XD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tA46CbX50DHP9
this is the fan
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M
the fan comes with crimps so you can cut the existing fan in the psu and crimp all 3 cables with the noctua fan.
As Oculus Support pointed out, it might be a bandwidth issue trying to run all 3 sensors from your motherboard.
Pick up one of these https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM and you'll be able to plug in 2 sensors + headset into it, then have the third sensor connected to one of the Motherboard USB ports. General rule of thumb is no more than 2 sensors per USB controller as they require a ton of bandwidth.
If you dont mind spending a little more, this card has 4 USB controllers, 1 for each port allowing you to plug in 3x sensors + Headset or 4x sensors https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Port-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Power/dp/B00HJZEA2S
How big is your planned playspace?
Additional sensors, cables to extend the headset USB/HDMI. Avoid going above 2m extenders as you may have issues and need HDMI repeaters.
PCI Card for people with substandard USB subsystems
These are the good cards which work for most people and are recommended by Oculus
StarTek 2 port card (1 controller) – Cheaper StarTek option that could be used for 2 sensors or a sensor and headset.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013HT6K3Q
Supported Inatek 4 port card (1 controller) – Don't get the 5 or 7 port card as the design is not really suited for Rift sensors.
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
Use the Inatek for your two front facing cameras and nothing else. Plug your third or fourth USB 2.0 camera and Rift HMD into your motherboard.
Supported StarTek 4 port card (2 Controllers) – Optional middle tier PCI card solution which can run all four sensors or 3 sensors and HMD. Equivalent to two Inatek cards.
https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00HJZE9VK
Supported StarTek 4 port card (4 Controllers) – Optional top of the range PCI card solution which can run all four sensors or 3 sensors and HMD. Equivalent to four Inatek cards.
https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00HJZEA2S
HDMI and USB Cables
2m HDMI cable that works for most extending the headset
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ519KC/
2m USB 3.0 cable that works for most extending the headset
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO
More cable options here - https://www.reddit.com//r/oculus/wiki/extension_cables
Edit: You again :) I've responded to 3 of your posts today :) Seems like you made a decision. Some more stuff below you could think about.
Replacement Interfaces, Covers and Foam Inserts
VR Cover is what you need when you have sweaty friends who leave your headset foam soaking wet and gross.
I'd recommend the new facial interface with easily swappable foam pads. Swap out that soaking wet foam in seconds for the next person using the Rift.
Alternatively you can go the cheap option of just a cover for the existing rift interface but it takes a bit longer (~30 seconds) to swap and is nowhere near as comfortable.
While the cheap option is great the newer facial interface and velour foam pads are much more comfortable and better than the stock foam.
All of the above are washable as well.
For glasses wearers that do offer the replacement interface in a "deeper" version but it may impact on the FOV (Field of View) of the Rift as your eyes are further from the lenses. I have never tried these.
Video explaining how they work and why they are different
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGeoPKTqKNo
Screen Protectors
These Healingshield 48mm curved watch face protectors work a treat if you want to protect the lenses from scratches. I was skeptical they might impact the visuals but I honestly can't notice them at all. Don't buy any cheap versions of these as they are usually flat and don't sit on the curved lenses of the Rift properly. These ones fit perfectly and have no issues with bubbling.
Mounting Sensors
If you want to mount the sensors in the corner of your room you can unscrew the sensors from their base and attach them to wall mounts.
If you have access to a 3D printer these. I use them for three of mine
or these
A HighPoint 4-Port USB 3.0 PCI-Express 2.0 x 4 HBA RocketU 1144D.
It works, but I do have to use the
pcie_acs_overridekernel command line option (+ patch) to split the individual controllers into separate IOMMU groups for PCI-e passthrough. Works for me without issue, but ymmv -- in general, overriding PCI-e ACS isn't recommended.I also tried a StarTech 4 Port PCI Express (PCIe) SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Card Adapter w/ 4 Dedicated 5Gbps Channels - UASP - SATA / LP4 Power but had issues. I can't remember what exactly, but I couldn't get it to work as individual controllers.
Here is a list of things that people will always need, I understand you can't stock everything as overhead is an issue with retail, and storage as well, but most of these are small enough that they can occupy the shelf space you currently have. As for the larger things, like the 2020 extrusions, you could sell them in common lengths of 500mm and 1000mm and let the customer cut them down to the size they need, or just don't carry these at all. It's not a niche item, but for a retail store like you it would be hard to store and maintain, but man, would it be nice to be able to get those locally if i needed a piece for a project instead of having to wait on mail order.
this is just a basic list, others have listed other things as well, Steppers, Belts, Pulleys, Bearings etc. If you want 3d printing as a reason for other people to go to your store, these items will satisfy the need. Just keep prices fair, I have no issue paying a bit more compared to amazon to get it today.
So, presumably, you're going to want different sections to have lights which operate independently from each other. Lights in this "room" lights in another "room" lights somewhere else yet. And also, presumably, you don't want it to be "all on" or "all off," but different sections that turn on when players are there, leaving the other sections off.
All sections will require power in order to operate, but it won't be necessary to run power cables willy nilly all over the board for this. Instead, you can run two lines - one positive, and one negative - back to your power source. It's similar to a breadboard in that you have power lines running the full length so you can tap power wherever you need it. I personally would run something like 14AWG wire to a series of screw down terminals, which will be where you connect any "room" circuits up.
I personally would change your design to use LEDs instead of incandescent bulbs. The incandescent bulbs will require a much higher voltage, which will require more expensive reed switches, and will also pose more hazard to work with and for the players. It definitely can be done safely at 120V, but it will be less work for better results (that will also last longer) if you switch. Using say, 12V DC for power, you can leave your power rails exposed if you want and it won't be a risk even if someone is touching them.
Here is a hastily drawn wiring schematic for you, which shows one light that would be activated by standing upon 6 different tiles. The black and red lines up top are your power rails. On one end, each of those is connected to a + (red) and - (black) on a power source. I would recommend something like this or even like this depending upon what your actual power requirements end up being. My overwhelming suspicion is your entire board, even if every fixture was lighted, would still be consuming less than 24W (if you go LED!). The cluster of 6 of the same item to the left are a bank of switches. Power is drawn off the + rail, and if any one switch is closed, power will continue to flow to the LED (purple), which is attached to the - rail to close the circuit. This can be scaled up or down almost infinitely - more LEDs on from one switch or switch bank - no problem - more or less switches - no problem. You can make as many of these set ups as you want, and attach them to the same rails - no problem!
To be honest, reading your post it sounds like still have some work to go to reach even a fundamental understanding of electrical circuitry. That's of course ok and not intended as a diss. This is partially why I recommend switching to a lower voltage of DC power (although it is what I would do personally as well), but also I would recommend you continue working on the fundamentals - it will make designing your project a lot easier. Here's a kinda whack video for kids but it's the most digestible one I was able to find in quickly searching. I also found this really cool lab software which will allow you to create simulations of the concepts you've learned about. If you need help or have specific questions, feel free to ask. Also, if you've got a design of your board laid out in a grid and you know where you want lights, switches, etc, I can help you turn that into a wiring diagram.
CPU
Mother Board
GPU
8GB of RAM
1TB HDD for way more storage space then a console. You could drop the storage space to match a console and save a bit of money, but we won't do that.
PSU Cheaper/lower wattage for this build is possible, but it's better not to skimp
Disk drives are dying out and everything is going digital. Even consoles are showing massive growth in direct game purchases and downloads from PSN/XBL. But here it is if you want one.
Here's a few cases 1 2 3 4. Pick your case based on style, USB ports, whatever. All of those are 30 dollars or less and are mATX, meaning smaller form factor.
So now peripherals. Need a monitor? No you don't, plug it in to your TV. HDMI just like a console and consoles don't come with displays. You might have a monitor already.
Controller/input devices? PCs can use the old controllers you have laying around. Here's a keyboard and mouse recommendation anyway if you want one or don't already own them since most people own a computer for stuff outside gaming. That costs around half the price of an OEM console controller and KB+M is a more accurate input method. Controllers are a comfort thing and are best suited for driving games, but point and click with a high DPI sensor is much more intuitive and accurate than a controller with bad input filtering and clunky auto aim. Microsoft tried cross platform and keyboard and mouse destroyed gamepad/controller players. The only real cross platform right now is Rocket League because controllers are the better input method for driving so it's equal footing. But if you're playing Rocket League on PC, you load in faster. You'll be sitting on an empty field while you wait for other players to connect before the countdown and stuff starts, kinda neat. Also, that one I recommended has a button to change DPI/sensitivity on the fly, no need to bother with settings menus. Seamlessly go from sniping to roaming to driving. The keyboard is back lit and has a few color options.
Operating system? GNU/Linux is free and is getting more and more gaming support every day. It's not as hard as people make it out to be. Get a basic/user friendly distro like Ubuntu and all you really have to do is install. If you're a masochist, a developer, or a masochistic developer get a tougher distro like Gentoo. Funny thing as well, games with Linux support run better on Linux since it's such a great operating system on the software level. SteamOS is also free. Want Windows? Download the OS and put it on a disk or flash drive, install it on the new computer and enter the product key. Where do you get a product key? Don't buy it from a big box retail store for 100 bucks or likely more, you're getting gypped. You can buy 100% legit product keys online. r/microsoftsoftwareswap sells them for 20-25$ and the keys are straight from Microsoft
Also, all of those listings are from Amazon and are Amazon Prime eligible (for the other guy that replied to you that wants to complain about rebates/shipping/living next to a MicroCenter). You can find a lot of those parts cheaper and/or with free shipping. I recommend NewEgg. So you can do even better than the price I'm about to give you (which also means you can get better hardware for better performance):
Here's the itemized list with the prices: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/QBVRNG
$448.51 total for a PC that is massively better than current gen consoles. Drop the unnecessary DVD drive and the keyboard+mouse combo and the PC itself comes in at $402.93.
So... brand new parts from a large online retailer with a great support system. You can get even better deals on the parts if you checked other great online retailers like NewEgg. Ten years ago consoles absolutely made sense, but now leaps in hardware design have made better hardware cheaper and the tables have turned.
Does that "come close without cheating"?
Here's a few more kickers now that we have the hard price set:
AMD and Nvidia are about to launch a new line of GPUs, meaning current prices will drop (better performance at lower cost on that build I just gave you) and AMD is specifically focusing on lower/mid range market with higher performance and efficiency. It's going to be great for mainstream gaming rigs.
PC gaming is usually cheaper over time because Intel/Nvida/AMD don't charge development fees (they can't), neither can EVGA/ASUS or whoever makes the parts, neither can Microsoft. Steam takes a cut, but so do stores like GameStop. Stuff like that is why Steam can have massive sales consoles can only dream of and the developers can still profit from a sale. The only reason PC games are 60 dollars like their console equivalents is because it's the standard and they can "get away with it" (especially if you're Microsoft trying to expand Windows 10 and not alienate XBox), but they can make the same or more per sale at a lower cost.
PCs also have the largest game library of any platform and the massive free to play library that comes with it as well. And it's really free, not 'pay 50 a year for a subscription and get to play a game for a month' free
PC is, in theory, forever backwards compatible. Want to play CoD4? Don't shell out the money for Infinite Warfare, just install CoD4 and play on the servers PC still hosts. Games that came out upwards of 10 years ago can still be installed and run with no issue.
You don't have to double spend. No buying a console and a computer for work/school. Put your 300 dollar home computer and 400 dollar console prices together and you made a huge leap in budget to built a killer PC. You also get a much more versatile platform capable of running much more stuff and you get so much more control over your experience.
I would recommend installing a USB expansion card in an open pci slot if possible. I have this one. Have never had any issues.
Inateck Superspeed 7 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - 5 USB 3.0 Ports and 2 Rear USB 3.0 Ports Express Card Desktop with 15 Pin SATA Power Connector, Including Two Power Cables (KT5002)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_r8e1BbR81HJFS
$5 cheaper
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=sr_1_1?s=cyber-monday&psr=EY17&ie=UTF8&qid=1543219291&sr=1-1&keywords=2700x
>At the start of this current generation there were tons of options to build computers that would cost less then the xbox one and ps4 but would still out perform them.
I'll be basing most of what I say on this article talking with Mark Cerny (the lead architect, so no rumours) about the PS5 specs.
We already know that the PS5 will be a custom Zen 2 8 core chip based on Ryzen 3rd gen with a custom Navi graphics chip that has ray-tracing support.
We also know this is coming in November 2020 a full year from now.
Lisa Su (AMD CEO) just announced Ryzen 4xxx chips coming early 2020, so by the time these consoles release they'll already be a cpu generation behind. Kind of like the Xbox One and PS4 were at launch, systems in 2013, that were based on 2012 laptop stuff.
So if you look at the price of a 2700x right now (one gen behind what's current), an 8 core chip, it's $189, that's like 43% below it's original release price of $329.
I'd wager that before these consoles drop, we will also see a Navi based card from AMD that supports ray-tracing, if they're doing it for consoles it's a no brainer.
>I would expect the ps5 and xbox scarlett to cost 500 at the max and they should be able to run 4k 60 fps on all their games.
That's a big assumption since nobody has discussed price, but lets tackle resolution.
Console 4k /= PC 4k. Consoles use all sorts of tricks including running at low/medium equivalent pc settings, scaling from 1800p to 2160p, and checkerboard rendering, which basically means they're only rendering half of the pixels - here's an example from Gears 5.
The Navi chips that come in these new consoles will be mid tier equivalents, and will need any helping hand they can get, even subsidized at $500, they will simply not be bleeding edge tech.
---
it's 1am here, I don't think I can be bothered to finish this essay. If you turn the detail down, run at 1800p, and had checkerboarding available on PC, you could run "faux k" on a $169 AMD Radeon 580 that would be equivalent to an XB1X. It will be the same by the time the new consoles come around.
The OEM for this unit is Delta Electronics. The following are reviews of the 850W version of this PSU, since I can't find any for the 750W one:
JonnyGuru
TechPowerUp
TweakTown
I posted a comment comparing this to other viable options in another thread I just posted about the semi-modular HCG-850M.
At this price it competes with the EVGA 750G2, which is on Amazon right now for $90 without mail-in rebate. Since these are both top-tier, fully modular units, the decision between the two comes down to whether you're willing to pay an extra $10 to avoid a $20 rebate.
Motherboards: MSI Enthusiastic Gaming Intel Z270 DDR4 VR Ready HDMI USB 3 ATX Motherboard x2
Ram: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz C15 Desktop Memory Kit - White x2
Processors: Intel 7th Gen Intel Core Desktop Processor i7-7700K x2
3 of the Monitors (1 is a Benq): ViewSonic VX2452MH 24" 1080p Gaming Monitor HDMI, DVI, VGA
GPUs: GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 1060 DirectX 12 GV-N1060WF2OC-6GD 6GB 192-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 ATX Video Card x2
Coolers: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (RR-212E-20PK-R2) x2
Speakers: Logitech Z313 Speaker System x2
Cases: Corsair Carbide Series Air 540 High Airflow ATX Cube Case - Black (and 1 white)
Keyboards: SteelSeries Apex 300 Gaming Keyboard, White LED Backlit and CORSAIR K55 RGB Gaming Keyboard
Mouse: Logitech G600 MMO Gaming Mouse (and don't ask what my cheap ass mouse is, but I love it)
Cat: Pain In The Ass Model
​
/u/JetJaguar124 /u/Integralds
So first thing's first, Windows: ~$130 for Home Edition.
Okay, so things to keep in mind:
The GPU you should be seeking to use is the 1660 Ti, which is basically a slightly gimped RTX 2060 but without the raytracing stuff. If you are willing to spend a bit more then you could get an RX 5700 instead, which is nearly ~30% faster on average.
That'll put you at $270 - $360 depending on the model you pick. Yes, it's a third of your budget, but the GPU is the single most important part of your build.
Secondly you'll want a decent CPU to go with that.
The Ryzen 5 3600 looks like a pretty good CPU, its a bit under $200, its fairly beefy and extendable so it's somewhat "future-proof" - in that it shouldn't cause much bottlenecking and you could upgrade your GPU past a 2080 Ti before needing to change the processor.
This MSI Tomohawk Mobo looks good for the 3600.
So we're at ~$320 for that, or about $640 total. Plus windows that is ~$730.
The RAM Inty recommended before should be fine. You only really need 16 GB. This will set you back ~$80. If you find yourself wanting more RAM later down the line you can always add another pair of sticks later and double up your RAM.
That puts us at around ~$800.
$80 for a 750W Fully Modular Corsair PSU is basically a steal. It's refurbished though, although that shouldn't be a problem - especially with a PSU.
We're at ~$880.
Some good thermal paste for your CPU.
We're now at ~$890.
Storage depends on what you want to do. Do you install a lot of stuff and files at once? In which case you might want to get a nice sized SSD plus a big HDD.
For your system drive. Plenty of space, good price, AND its an nvme SSD.
That makes for ~$990.
If you need lots of extra space
If you need extreme extra space
Keyboard and case are up to you, decide as you please. For the case just make sure that it can support an ATX mobo, as the mobo listed here is full ATX. Mechanical keyboards are crack, but they tend to be more expensive so they're probably out of range. This will be another $100 to $150 depending on what you pick.
Something to keep in mind though: Your case and your monitors are basically "future proof". In other words, they won't really get "worse" with time or cause future performance issues. So monitors and case are things where you want to consider what you'll eventually want and buy ahead, even if you have to stretch a bit.
This just leaves your monitor. I would NOT recommend a 1080p monitor above 24 in. Honestly, if you can go for a 1440p monitor then do it. I'm a bit of a resolution whore tho, so if 1080p works for you then that's fine. I would also avoid TN panels - they tend to look more washed out, tinny, and have worse viewing angles . . . although they also tend to be a fair bit cheaper than the good panels (namely IPS panels).
I used to own one of these . . . it was vvy vvy gud. This is a relatively artsy monitor, so if color gamut correctness or whatever is important for you for photo or video editing or whatever, then this is a good pick. It's a bit expensive, yeah, but also super gorgeous. It also goes up to 75 Hz. Conversely, get a freesync monitor, and this one is probably good - haven't done much research on it, but Dells are generally pretty good in my experience (my current 4K monitor is a Dell too). Freesync will allow you to basically eliminate screen tearing and will provide a smoother feeling experience because it will even out frame rates better.
One last thing to keep in mind: Shopping around on ebay and other sites can save you a fair bit. My rule of thumb is to never, ever buy sensitive parts like hard-drives, cpus, or motherboards second hand or refurbished. But everything else is fair game. So refurbished GPUs, Monitors, PSUs, Cases, etc. should be fine. Pre-owned? Ehhh . . . that I'm much, much more sketchy on - personally I wouldn't, but that's just me.
So in total it'd be somewhere in the range of $1500 including monitor, OS, case, and keyboard. The system itself is around $1000. But you can perhaps knock off a hundred bucks or two by shopping around and looking for where you can buy these parts cheaper than Amazon.
But again: investing in a good monitor and case can be worth it. It means you won't have to replace it if/when you do upgrade. And worst case scenario you can offload your monitor as a side/secondary monitor when you upgrade your monitor to a new one.
Try under $300, comes with rgb cooler: AMD Ryzen 7 2700X Processor with Wraith Prism LED Cooler - YD270XBGAFBOX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IFVVBbRQJ10RE
Price History
ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.7/5 from 873 valid reviews
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Don't En Passant these deals.
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https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428M7F
As the other guy said $160 with 15% cash back + you get Game Bundle: Get Borderland 3 or The Outer World PC game plus 3 months of Xbox Game Pass as well.
So it's $6 more on amazon basically.
assuming you have an amazon credit card
Beats Amazons lowest price by $4 according to 3xcamel
https://ca.camelcamelcamel.com/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/product/B07B428M7F
40mm, the onboard APUs on my mini itx HTPC's have these on the heatsink.
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3681#ov
I actually replaced them with the 40mm Noctua fans.
Replace it.
I will give you my background before my opinions. As everyone has different goals, opinions, and experiences.
I got my printer near the end March of this year. I have something like 2500m of filament run though it, and no idea how much print time.
When I received my printer, my test prints failed and I was pissed. But this community helped improve my Cura settings and started producing usable parts. I then went nuts and printed out a BUNCH of mods. This is by far my most favorite thing. There's always something I can print to improve the quality of the prints.
THe down side is I went too far and got to a point where I couldn't produce anything of quality. So, 2 weeks of tweeking and researching later I'm printing in PETG with beautiful quality and very minimal visible layers.
My most recent project in PETG:
http://i.imgur.com/sVf7S2D.jpg?1
So, now to answer your question...
> How do you like your Maker Select?
I love it. It allowed me to buy a cheaper printer (One of the cheapest at the time @ $350) that produced amazing results. It also has upgrades you can purchase or print to improve the quality, so investing smaller amounts over time to make it better and better. I highly recommend it to anyone who is starting because it does require tweaking which forces you to learn and understand how exactly 3d printers work. A major plus was that this community has a lot of Maker Select users for support, which was a MAJOR plus for me.
As of today, I've purchased the following upgrades:
So, in the last ~3 months I've spent an additional $264... Oh god, don't tell my wife! All are totally not necessary, mind you. The only thing I'd 100% recommend you do are print out the following to mods:
DiiiCooler along with buying the 50mm blower fan. There are cheaper options out there, I just wanted it faster so I bought it through Amazon to get free 2 day shipping.
z-Brace - This is key, and will run you maybe $15 worst case scenario to get enough M4 screws and the threaded rods.
Edit: Forgot a couple more things I bought.
That's another $59, so $323... I have a problem. again, 95% of this is NOT NECESSARY. I'm just addicted to modding.
Without question the Cooler Master Hyper 212+. You can get it for 30$, and there's simply nothing that can compete with it in value.
For what it's worth, your asking price is on track with the new price of RAM. I recently bought a 4gb stick of ddr3 sodimm on amazon new for $20 with free shipping. Not trying to be rude or anything, you'll just have a pile of sodimm at this price. Good luck with sale!
Edit: and apparently 8GB sticks can be had new for ~$34. Link
That's the normal price at Amazon. No tax, and it's available with Prime shipping.
It is an AMD FX-8350, a CPU for computers, which I build.
You can use fan splitters which are probably easiest, there are cheaper ones available as well they just don't look as pretty. Splitters simply split the power and PWM signal to multiple fans off the same header.
You can also use fan hubs which are like splitters in that they split the PWM signal, but often they will have a separate power input so that it can handle a larger number of fans. The one that I linked can handle 8 PWM fans
Lastly the simplest but not necessarily ideal solution is to use a straight molex to fan cable, which runs whatever fan is plugged in at full speed off the power supply.
again, all the options I've linked to are just good examples of what I'm talking about, there are cheaper options available with minor differences.
Was in the same situation as you and just bought 3 of these from Amazon. Should be delivered today, and should be easy peasy to install.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XKKQ/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Then you are running a huge fire hazard. Here is link to the psu im using: https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG
Mosfets can be found on amazon/ebay aswell. Marlin is free software and soldering just need a soldering iron and your skills. I would not recommend you to use it before you do these upgrades.
When you have done these upgrades, then you can start to troubleshoot the other problems. I am sorry, but I do not know what's causing the sounds.
2nd picture, rectangular chip, 4th silver connector on right side down, burnt connection and chip
You should check with the seller for a replacement power supply first, otherwise
https://tiny-machines-3d.myshopify.com/products/highest-quality-replacement-power-supply-for-creality-cr-series-machines
or this should work from amazon but it won't fit in the box according to the reviewer, still 18.99
https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Since you're looking at an Oculus Rift, see the following knowledge base article: https://support.oculus.com/hc/en-us/articles/214829648-Error-My-computer-does-not-have-the-recommended-USB-ports
A lot of third party USB 3.0 has been flagging as incompatible. However, Oculus has been recommending this Inateck card.
Better link to the 5-port: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIMICA/
> If i get a USB 3.0 hub, and plug it into USB 2.0 port on my PC will that work with the oclulus set up?
No. You're still limited by USB 2.0 speeds. You can buy a PCIe expansion card. Oculus recommend this http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA
Any of the Inateck series should work (I have the 5 port one).
Inateck KTU3FR-4P: USA | UK | Canada | Germany | France
------
or if you want to go crazy and get absolute tip top quality, StarTech PEXUSB3S44V: USA | UK | Canada | Germany | France
what would solve issues for me would be a roll back to 1.10 why would a patch make me have to rearrange my USB ports? Currently I have a 4 port 4 controller USB card, so rearranging them isn't really going to do anything anyway.
My choice
Doubt you'll get £90+10 as it's only £102 brand new off Amazon with prime. Generally, used they tend to go for around £60 so you could expect £70-80 IMHO.
literally amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01IPVSLTC/ref=dp_olp_0?ie=UTF8&condition=all
> Kabylake isn't even out yet
It is. There is a Kaby Lake system I just built sitting in my entertainment center as a HTPC.
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Desktop-Processor-i7-7700K-BX80677I77700K/dp/B01MXSI216/
There's the i7 on Amazon available to purchase right now.
Might wanna decrease the price there buddy, the Ryzen 1700's $259 at the moment and the Crosshair's $179 (w/ rebate). Both go on sale for less regularly.
Edit: $179 Crosshair is non-wifi, wifi edition is actually $245 at the moment
This is not worth the price premium over the Ryzen 7 1700 ($269.99) imo. With the 1700, you get the Wraith Spire which currently has bids up to $57 on eBay. So it's basically $200 less and the only major difference is clock speed out of the box. I would save my $200, and get a nice aftermarket cooler to overclock the 1700 to 1800X levels.
Guessing that you are in Europe so here's a RX580 8gb around 330.
The RX580 is a fantastic card and in combination with Freesync it will provide you with a wonderful 1080p experience. Being a RX580 user myself, I suggest undervolting and overclocking the card. It's really easy in Radeon Software and the free performance is totally worth it!
Ryzne 2700x for $199
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=ryzen+2700x&psr=PDAY&qid=1563176617&s=prime-day-secondary&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=1-1
Corsair hydro H100I RGB AIO for 99@checkout
https://www.amazon.com/Radiator-Advanced-Lighting-Software-compatible/dp/B07BWNWQKJ/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=ryzen+2700x&psr=PDAY&qid=1563176782&s=prime-day-secondary&sr=1-8
i think its goint to settle to that price eventually, it competing against the 3600.
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2Z3VHH6H2VHUN&keywords=ryzen+7+2700x&qid=1563195154&s=electronics&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sprefix=Ryzen+7%2Cprime-day%2C207&sr=1-2
>B/O 6700k
>offers this
They're easy enough to make to be honest.
Just need a 12v power supply and an induction heating module Then it's just a case of wiring it up, which is simple enough. The only bit you'll need to solder is the actual heating coil to the induction board and that's only 2 solder points so definitely minimal. put a switch on the induction heater so that it's not always on and it'll be functional. Then it's just a case of housing the parts in a nice box. If you want detachable leads then there are a few different connectors you can use but they will require more soldering. Personally I like xt60 connectors as they're easy to solder.
All the parts listed above can be sourced cheaper, but that were the links I had at hand.
Don't skimp on the PSU. Since it's a server, I'm gonna assume that it's gonna be running more hours a day than a home PC. I'd suggest investing in a decent PSU like this one at the very least. For the pretty penny it may seem to cost upfront, it could save you a lot of time and patience down the road.
You only need two USB 3.0 ports for the Rift and sensor:
1x 3.0 USB port for the headset
1x 3.0 USB port for the 3D Positional Tracker
1x 3.0 USB port for Oculus Touch (available at a later date)
1x 2.0 USB port for Xbox wireless controller
The other USB port is for an additional sensor for Oculus Touch so you'll be fine for some time.
This is the PCI-E expansion card Oculus suggests: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA/
nice! congrats and thanks! i have a similar set up.
very happy with it and proud to be doing it. for those interested, here is what i'm using:
https://www.overstock.com/Electronics/Zotac-ZBOX-nano-C-ZBOX-CI323NANO-U-Desktop-Computer-Intel-Celeron-N/11044872/product.html
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822178872&nm_mc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel&cm_mmc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel-_-Content-_-text-_-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006YG8X9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLEN5FQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://github.com/mmgen/MMGenLive
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NQLT0M/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ARS4FK5114M5WF08CRWK this is probably going to be a better all around fan. Slightly more airflow, quieter, and doesn't use a sleeve bearing.
You make a fine argument. I'd like to offer a counterpoint. Intel keeps changing the socket.
AMD is on the third generation in the same socket. If you catch a deal on a current gen AMD board, you can move into the next upgrade even cheaper.
AMD is selling on Amazon, and the "Frequently bought together" has a processor with cooler, motherboard, and 16GB RAM listed there is $369. Throw in the storage and video solution from your old Intel system, and your gaming under $400. Even cheaper if you can find a deal on something used.
For those who don't want to use Newegg and/or prefer Amazon shipping, the same combo can be found in Amazon for $194.99
Ignore that warning because it's 2018 and you shouldn't be buying a CPU from 2014 anyway.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 7 1800X 3.6GHz 8-Core Processor | $314.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | ASRock - X470 Taichi ATX AM4 Motherboard | $223.98 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $165.99 @ Newegg Business
Storage | Mushkin - Reactor 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $219.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $59.79 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card | $594.98 @ Newegg
Case | Deepcool - TESSERACT SW ATX Mid Tower Case | $39.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $81.99 @ SuperBiiz
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro Full 32/64-bit | $189.00 @ B&H
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1920.70
| Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
| Total | $1890.70
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-04-16 13:16 EDT-0400 |
The 1800X is a placeholder. The 2700X is now available on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07B428M7F/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1523898867&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=amd+ryzen+7&dpPl=1&dpID=417iqpB9ONL&ref=plSrch
gpu
motherboard
cpu
RAM ( 16 gigs is HIGHLY recommended )
another mobo If you want, this is just a higher quality version of the other one.
First off, I'd like to confirm that this is your motherboard.
http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4305#ov
If it is, you can see from the page there that the socket is AM3+, so you'll want to find a processor that fits this socket. If you look at pcpartpicker, you can easily find processors that fit these specification.
http://pcpartpicker.com/parts/cpu/#k=4
(hopefully that link works, it should processors that fit the AM3+ socket type, make sure that is checked on the right side of the screen)
Ok, so here comes the recommendation. I highly recommend the 8350, as it is one of the processors that rivals intel's chips most commonly used for gaming. You shouldn't have any problems playing any games on it, as your GPU will most likely be the bottleneck.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009O7YUF6/?tag=pcpapi-20
I'm also inclined to ask the wattage on your power supply, and who the manufacturer is. You wouldn't want to put a more intensive processor and risk everything because of a power supply that isn't adequate. You should be fine, seeing as you currently have a 660 installed, but please do a check to make sure you'll be ok installing a new CPU. I would recommend any power supply made by a well-known manufacturer, above 450-500 watts.
What are you going to do with your PC? If it's just gaming then an i7 is a bit overkill. I'd recommend the FX 8350 with this build and if you want to overclock, I'd recommend the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO CPU cooler. And you're right, it would be a great gift!
My motherboard only has one system fan header, but I have two system fans. Would I be able to use something like this to safely use both case fans that come with my corsair 350d? I have this motherboard. I can't find the amp values for the case fans, and don't want to fry/melt the on board fan header from the initial power draw.
You can get a much better deal than that getting the parts yourself.
Total = $815 bux (before tax for in store items)
edit: i put that list together real quick - you could probably find better deals for the video card if you look around. That's the exact same build I got except I went with the 560 ti 448. You dont need i7 either the 2500k = 2600k minus HT. 2500k is pretty much all the power you need for a kick ass machine.
Figure $200-ish for the laptop, another ~$100 for the CPU, $150 for the SSD (though you could save $50), $30-40 for the keyboard, $100+ for the RAM, plus the cost of the screen upgrade if it originally came with the HD screen, and labor hours to install all of those upgrades, it might just be, depending on how new those parts are.
$127.99 Intel NUC NUC5CPYH
Has VGA, HDMI, 3x USB 3.0 (wtf is that yellow port?), 2x 2.5mm Headphone Jack.
$38.79 8GB RAM for Intel NUC (it doesn't come with any RAM)
$39.99 PNY CS311 120GB (it doesn't come with any drives)
Total: $206.77
Intel Celeron N3050, the NUC's CPU. Dual Core w/o Hyperthreading, max 8GB RAM, Burst (NOT Turbo) to 2.16GHz. Has VT-x, but no VT-d. 64bit.
Disclaimer: The only mini-PC I know of is this NUC, someone else can probably find even cheaper or with better hardware than I can here.
Correction!
1700
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-YD1700BBAEBOX-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B06WP5YCX6/ref=bdl_pop_ttl_B06WP5YCX6
1700X
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-YD170XBCAEWOF-Ryzen-1700X-Processor/dp/B06X3W9NGG/ref=bdl_pop_ttl_B06X3W9NGG
1800X
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-YD180XBCAEWOF-Ryzen-1800X-Processor/dp/B06W9JXK4G/ref=bdl_pop_ttl_B06W9JXK4G
>AMD Wraith Spire Cooler Included
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113428
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP5YCX6
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3kPzK8/amd-ryzen-7-1700-30ghz-8-core-processor-yd1700bbaebox
INCLUDES CPU COOLER
Yes
Pc part picker says it does among every other website you look at..
You can already get 580 8gb cards for 190 bucks.
https://www.amazon.com/XFX-Radeon-1386MHz-Graphics-RX-580P8DFD6/dp/B06Y66K3XD/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=rx+580&qid=1550929634&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
Here's the pricing history on camelcamelcamel - It's an all time low for this listing on Amazon.ca.
Greatcandianrebates currently has upto 6% cashback available on Amazon's Black Friday deals.
GTS series is the mid-tier lineup of the XFX brand.
EDIT: https://www.amazon.ca/s/browse?node=17440060011
> Some of the studies are looking at reaching trajectories
As in, the trajectory of a hand reaching for something? Is this at normal, everyday speed, or are you looking for something like a boxer to give it their best shot & swing as fast as they can? Because that's one niche use case where Lighthouse outperforms Constellation - super fast movement tracking.
Given the camera nature of the Rift's Constellation tracking system (720p 60 Hz global shutter cameras with IR filters), super fast movements can cause tracking errors as the movement becomes too fast for the sampling rate to keep up. In this, Lighthouse has a better capacity for these fast movements as the total sampling rate of the sweeping lasers exceeds the sampling rate of Constellation's cameras, and in Lighthouse the controllers & the headsets are the receivers; they aren't outputting signals mid-movement like Constellation (where there are IR LEDs scattered across the tracked objects) so there's no equivalent to the IR LEDs output getting smeared across a single sample frame of the camera.
That said, we're talking fast here, this guy isn't having any issues landing his hits accurately, nor is this guy. However there was a thing about a climbing game a long time ago where the dev ran into issues with Rift because the whole game was about holding your hands up high & bringing them down with as much force as you could muster, which could send people off in the wrong direction as the Constellation tracking had a hiccup from the super fast motion.
On the other hand, speaking purely technically, hard-measurably, but not humanly observable, movements in anything but these super-speeds will likely be more accurate on Rift, compared to both Lighthouse 1.0 & 2.0, given the purely stationary nature of the external side of the tracking system. In a lab setting, you can tailor the camera setup to the needs of the test as well. If you were measuring smaller ranges of movement & had the 2 sensors that come in the box placed a meter apart & a meter from the test subject, the accuracy & low jitter..y..ness? would likely far exceed anything you could achieve with Lighthouse. Add a third sensor to that and have them in a triangle some ~1,5m away from the test subject, you'd probably be hard pressed to measure any statistically significant deviations in tracking at all. Add a fourth sensor, buy a high-performance USB expansion card, set them up surrounding the test subject in decently close proximity, and you honestly might not even need that Optotrak. Set a 4 sensor config up with them in a half circle in front of the test subject, and, well.. That'd be an interesting benchmark of the tracking system, and I suspect you'd be pleasantly surprised.
A while back someone wrote a piece of software to measure tracking deviations/jitter. They made it for Vive users as jitter was a bit of an issue for them back then, but they posted it on r/oculus to get comparative data. Figured you might find the numbers interesting, even if there are a ton of variables unaccounted for between all different user setups: https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/4nezq5/looking_for_someone_to_run_the_vive_jitter_test
It's this. It was recommended on this page. I wanted to be absolutely certain I got flawless tracking, so opted for a dedicated USB 3.0 controller for each port, so there wasn't any chance of running into a bandwidth limitation. Also wanted all three of the sensors to be running at USB 3.0, whereas they recommend plugging one of the three into USB 2.0 otherwise (again, due to bandwidth limitations under one controller).
I don't doubt you could have a flawless experience without it, but I wanted to make damn well certain that it would be plug-and-play goodness from the start, given my history of building up expectations and ultimately being disappointed.
EDIT: Forgot to answer your last question. It was actually just the "First Contact" demo thing that you start out with the learn the controls. This the realism and accuracy of the controls, and interacting with the environment in such a natural manner was just amazing. I went and played through it again this evening. The other games I've tried (SuperHot and RoboRecall are really, really good as well, it's just that was the first one, and the environmental interaction is really cool).
I doubt the Rift or trackers will need the full bandwidth of USB3. It's probably for the power requirements (USB3 allows 900mA to be drawn through one port).
If it does turn out to be bandwidth-limited, you could always get a card that has an independent USB3 controller for each port:
http://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S
I highly doubt that, though... Oculus wouldn't make a product that almost nobody could use because their PCI bus is being saturated. They'd lower the specs to meet what most gaming setups have.
Eh no, you'll need a Usb 3.0 PCI express card.
Just my opinion based on my experience, that's all.
The reason being that your board probably only has a single USB 3.0 controller on it, and that's not enough bandwidth overall, especially if you want to expand to room scale with additional sensors later.
Save yourself a headache, get either:
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-KT5001-5-Port-Express-Connector/dp/B00FPIMJEW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1519902478&sr=8-2&keywords=inateck+usb+3.0
OR
https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519902611&sr=1-3&keywords=startech+usb+3.0+pcie+expansion+card
though price-wise starting out, the Inateck is fine.
Ditch the hub and do it right, get one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501774462&sr=8-1&keywords=4+Port+PCI+Express+%28PCIe%29+SuperSpeed+USB+3.0+Card+Adapter
If it were me, for a core system I'd be looking at something like this: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/W9mvKB
That CPU supports avx2 which should allow good plotting speed. Also has hyperthreading meaning it can read multiple drives at once decreasing overall read speed.
We're going to use an nvme drive to stage plots using turboplotter because the write speed on those Seagate externals is completely terrible if you try plotting them directly.
Finally, with a built-in GPU, you won't need to purchase a discreet unit allowing you to spend a few extra dollars on 16gigs of fast RAM (ryzen specifically needs fast RAM). Now because we won't be using our pcie slots on unnecessary GPU's, you can add two USB host controller cards like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HJZEA2S/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1519885103&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=startech+usb+pcie as to not overburden the onboard USB controller.
Please note however, the ryzen 5 2400g is a new offering from AMD so please please contact your mobo vendor or ASRock and confirm that you can install this specific apu without requiring a BIOS flash before it'll function (having to do so would mean temporarily installing an older chip).
Hope this helps.
Why even spend $330 when you can save four bucks and get a factory overclocked card?
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IPVSLTC/?tag=pcp0f-20
Going by this on amazon, looks like they launched around $260, rarely dipped below $230 before the big rise, and are currently bouncing around ~$290 without sales. Of course, I'm making huge generalizations and prices/values will be affected by heat sinks, fans, and reliability.
$384.99 on Amazon atm. https://www.amazon.ca/Intel-i7-7700K-Desktop-Processor-BX80677I77700K/dp/B01MXSI216/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510950081&sr=1-1&keywords=7700k&dpID=513ORbzSPwL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
1700x
Razer Naga
H100i v2
Fixed all the links now..
PSA:
i7-7700k
i5-7600k
> If the criteria is simply the best performance [for video games], then Intel/NVIDIA wins.
https://i.redd.it/2imuz8nwlrjy.jpg
i7-7700K - $337.52
R7-1700 - $296.71
I don't know how much you are willing to spend but a good AM3+ processor is this http://www.amazon.com/AMD-FD8350FRHKBOX-FX-8350-8-Core-Processor/dp/B009O7YUF6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1450884680&sr=1-1&keywords=fx+8350
Eh, DDR3 is expensive for what it is, but that's if you buy it new which I wouldn't recommend for this kind of system. An Fx-8350 costs as much as a 2 Gen Ryzan 5 at this point, there really isn't much of a case for building one new. However you can usually find killer deals on second hand sites like shopgoodwill.com. Some of the machines will need repairs (most of the time a hard drives/ssd does the trick) but I've always had pretty good luck with them.
splitters
https://www.amazon.ca/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ
I'd recommend 2 more fans - ideally you want 2 intake fans and 1 exhaust fan to prevent dust buildup inside your case, especially since the filter on the front means 1 exhaust 1 intake will probably be insufficient for this. If you want to match the design and color scheme I suggest Corsair SP120 LED fans, just put these two in the front intake and have the existing fan in the back. You might need a fan splitter to power them though since you only have two slots on your Mobo.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG
Keeps it all at ~12.5V. I managed to get one screw into it to hold it where the old one used to go.
Also get the mosfet to run the bed power completely independently of the controller board for another $10:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HEQVQAK/
Use some ~14ga lamp cord to tie it in. :)
Honestly, I would just buy a new fan. It's probably not worth the trouble to fix the cheap Chinese loud fan. I bought the Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX. It works fine, super quiet, no issues. Super easy to install, just follow this video. Hope I helped.
Non mobile version
I've never seen one of these threads, so my build is not new, but I'm game to join in.
Last year, I built this NAS that serves as my Plex machine: https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/drop.emily.st/DSC02173.jpg
I built it from
I can't remember how much it all ran at the time, but it was something a little over a thousand. I installed CentOS on it, and the hard disk drives are using a ZFS filesystem.
my computer is currently dying (i think) but it's ok i was planning on updating the cup and stuff but if anyone has some advice i'd appreciate it, currently going to go from a phenom II to an i7 and upgrading my tiny ssd to a 500gb because i'm pretty sure half of my issues are coming from low disk space.
but yeah advice and stuff is welcome as i struggle to find stuff to delete from my computer ;=;
I combined this power supply with this switch combo bolted down inside an ammo can as my charging setup and charger case. If you have a drill and a Dremel, you can easily do the same. That supply gives you 30 amps of 12 volts with three separate outputs. So you could run 3 of those Accucel chargers at max power, in theory.
I just spent the last week buying and printing upgrades for my new A8... I'm also new to 3D printing. Its been printing great so far.
Purchased;
Mosfet: $10 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XP4YZ9N
GT2 Belts: $9 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F0G4144
30A PSU: $20 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/
Power Socket w/ Switch & Fuse: $5 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK
Printed;
Extruder Buton: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1935151
T Corner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1672959
Anti Z Wobble: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1858435
Y Belt Tensioner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2149867
X Belt Tensioner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2354736
Z Endstop Fine Adjustment: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1776429
Trust us when we say take that 1060 out. Then get a new PSU ASAP, the maximum shouldn't be more than a few days, anymore than that and say good bye PC. This is a good one to get as far as I know but I can always be wrong.
EVGA 500 B1, 80+ BRONZE 500W $46,94
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Supply-Warranty-100-B1-0500-KR/dp/B00DZ6R9GE/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1482917942&sr=1-4&keywords=psu&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6906983011%7C6906984011%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A2888266011
I have those and find them to be flaky garbage for vive, replaced with
http://smile.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA
Which is what Oculus also recommends.
edit- and yes it fixed my issues with the camera etc
You could also go with a ryzen 2700x based system like u/rtkierke said and that would give you 2 more cores and 4 more threads, just make sure to get fast ram with ryzen to have the best possible experience. Something like this corsair kit or if you wanna keep with RGB you could get this kit
Ryzen 7 2700X on amazon au for $287
https://www.amazon.com.au/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Cooler-YD270XBGAFBOX/dp/B07B428M7F
I just bought the 2700x from the Amazon deal (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07B428M7F/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Made me finally decide to eventually retire my legendary i5-2500K.
Does anyone have any suggestions for a decent motherboard+memory for this CPU?
Note: I will be doing slight OC but not go too overboard. I just want to have a good/stable setup that'll last me a few years.
Thank you in advance.
410€ for 3700x,
320€ for 3600x,
263€ for 3600...
WTF Amazon?
http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:https://www.amazon.de/AMD-Ryzen-3700x-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07SXMZLPK
http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:https://www.amazon.de/AMD-Ryzen-3600x-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07SQBFN2D
http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:https://www.amazon.de/AMD-Ryzen-3600-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07STGGQ18
https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-3600-12-Thread-Processor/dp/B07STGGQ18/
amazon.ca amd ryzenn 3600
Amazon just dropped it to $234.99
Doesn’t look like any games or game pass included.
AMD Ryzen 5 3600 6-Core, 12-thread unlocked desktop processor with Wraith Stealth cooler. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07STGGQ18/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8XF3DbW9CFDDB
Not knowing anything about your setup I'm going to guess it's a USB bandwidth issue, not power. Not all motherboards are created equal in that some will include more USB controllers (different than ports) than others. The controller can be "split" with a hub, but based on the number of devices across that controller they must all share bandwidth. My first recommendation is to try switching the devices to different USB ports to see if you can get them all happy at once. Don't try to run them all off the same hub because that guarantees the same controller.
Edit: assuming this is your issue and you're on a desktop with a free pci slot:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-SuperSpeed-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=asc_df_B00HJZEA2S/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309776868400&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10427848564261723381&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9058138&hvtargid=pla-441634214285&psc=1
Is going to be your "end all" solution. Each of the 4 ports has its own usb controller so even a device which uses the whole bandwidth will stay happy plugged in there. I've done a lot of fighting with Oculus Rift and Kinect2.0 which are bandwidth-hungry devices (most HD cameras/capcards over usb are) and this card laughs at usb problems.
> Instead of getting a USB expansion card then, you could just get an internal connector to an open USB header like this
The problem is separate controllers. Most motherboards only have ~2 maybe 3 controllers for USB, and all the ports, including the internal ones, are connected to those controllers.
That's why there's something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S which has 4 separate controllers or something.
This will most likely be an issue of not enough controllers. I had the same issue when I first got mine. I dropped the dosh on the quad controller PCI Express card and haven't had any issues since, 3 sensors and the headset plugged into this card, and one extra sensor plugged in to a regular usb port on the machine.
Yeah, I'm using the Startech card with 4 dedicated controllers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S/
Are you gonna liquid cool? I ask because that case is generally for liquid cooling. The airflow of that case it not that great. Here's another option, a lot better suited for air cooling: HAF X.
For CPU cooler, here's a pretty good one, the Hyper 212 Plus. It's not much more than the one you listed and it's regularly considered one of the best air coolers, especially for the price. If you can, try to pick up a 2nd 120 mm fan and do push/pull with it.
Also if you are doing serious heavy duty video editing, I'm always a proponent of getting as much RAM as you can. May want to think about getting the 16 gb kit.
Besides that it looks pretty good. Some might say it'd be better (and cheaper) to get 2 Samsung F3 1 tb drives and run it in RAID. Also there's people out there who might have some issue with the 590 card (either say it's overkill, or better to get two 580s) but I don't have a particularly strong stance on either position so I'll leave that to them.
Just a sidenote though, if you can afford to add it to your system, I'd highly recommend getting a SSD as a boot drive/program drive. It was the most noticeable change I ever got from a single component upgrade. I'd recommend at least a 128 gb if you're gonna put all your programs + windows on it. You could probably get away with 64 gb but you'd always have to be super frugal about space. My personal recommendation is the Crucial M4. Just make sure you update the firmware to revision 9 before you start installing anything on it (google it, it's super easy to do).
EDIT: Also was looking at your motherboard. From everything I could see, this Gigabyte board seems to be pretty much the same features wise and cheaper to boot.
Cooler Master Hyper 212+
I currently have a Phenom II x4 965 C2 stepping (the hottest running one) with a mild overclock to 3.6 GHz. Temps on idle are around 30 C in my terribly cooled room, and never go above 48 C on load. I also bought Arctic Silver Ceramique to go along with it, but the thermal paste that comes with the cooler should be fine. It's also very quiet.
No, if you're gonna buy a 2012 Unibody, I recommend going with a used one instead of refurbished. You CAN get one from Apple's refurb store, but I recommend eBay. Here's a link to one for $429.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/APPLE-MACBOOK-PRO-MID-2012-13-2-5GHz-i5-4GB-RAM-320GB-HDD-A1278-/192035795047?hash=item2cb639b067:g:h4sAAOSwcUBYNlST
Buy this, then buy an SSD and upgrade it. Upgrading to an SSD takes 10 minutes plus an hour to reinstall, and makes a world of a difference. Any monkey can upgrade to an SSD in one of these older machines. Here's a link to a few good SSDs depending on the size you need.
256GB SSD
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ADATA-Ultimate-SU800-256GB-3D-NAND-2-5-Inch-SATA-III-Internal-Solid-State-Drive-/302089343525?hash=item4655ed9225:g:7rAAAOSwAuZX68Fj
512GB SSD
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-850-EVO-500GB-2-5-Inch-SATA-III-Internal-SSD-MZ-75E500B-AM-/172336043050?hash=item282007542a:g:DAsAAOSwKOJYIlqZ
Hope this helps! You should also upgrade it to 8GB RAM, and if you replace one of the sticks of RAM with an 8GB Stick, you'll have a total of 10GB, which is awesome. Here's a link to a good stick of RAM. You'll only need one.
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-Single-PC3L-12800-SODIMM-204-Pin/dp/B006YG8X9Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480020498&sr=8-1&keywords=8gb+ddr3+laptop
So if you get that MacBook Pro, a 256GB SSD, and the 8GB RAM stick, you'll have a GREAT machine for just under $550, which is almost $250 LESS than the one on Groupon, with MUCH BETTER SPECS!
Tl;Dr, no, that's a bad deal. Get what I recommended.
Also, there are guides on iFixit.com to show you how to replace the hard drive with an SSD and replace the RAM. All you need is a screwdriver and 10-15 minutes.
Finding a <$300 RX 580 8GB on Amazon isn't all that hard?
Wrong sub for those combined memes I guess.
/r/amd has a meme about how XFX adds a billion X’s to their products (with long names) so you get real product names like the XFX Radeon RX 580 GTS XXX Edition 1386MHz
Meme #2 is that everyone was “waiting for Vega” and “Vega insert edition Confirmed!” Thinking of course that it would be a 1080ti killer.
Spoiler: It wasn’t. (It was a 1070 killer that forced nVidia to release the 1070 ti). Also, Vega took forever to release and was sold out to cryptominers ever since so is never available.
So basically I combined two memes that are an insider-joke to the AMD subreddit and instead just looked like an ass when I had to type a giant message to describe the meme.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MXSI216/
Order Summary
Items: GBP 270.47
Postage & Packing: GBP 22.44
Total before VAT: GBP 292.91
VAT: GBP 0.00
Order Total: GBP 292.91
En España venden un 850 EVO de 500GB a 150 euros y te cobran nada más que 10 euros de import fee, con el envío redondeaba en $2800 creo, acá está casi $5k.
Es cuestión de buscar, las cosas se encuentran.
Pour des builds "budget" je conseille de prendre les ryzen de la génération d'avant :
exemple : ryzen 7 1700 à 170€ pour un 8 coeur/16threads
La prochaine génération de console arrive bientôt avec d'ici un an ou 2 des jeux qui seront plus optimisés pour plus de coeurs (d'après les specs annoncées donc les perfs des processeurs ryzen vont sans doute s'améliorer dans les jeux.
Thanks! Same price on Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06WP5YCX6
1700: https://www.amazon.es/dp/B06WP5YCX6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487268972&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=ryzen
1700X: https://www.amazon.es/dp/B06X3W9NGG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487268972&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ryzen
1800X: https://www.amazon.es/dp/B06W9JXK4G/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487268972&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=ryzen
I have some good news, Ryzen 1700/1700X/1800X are now available on Amazon.it:
Ryzen 7 1700 379,90€
Ryzen 7 1700X 459,90€
Ryzen 7 1800 X 574,90€
Link here: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06WP5YCX6/?tag=pcp0f-20
£80, you can get the 1700 for £300: https://www.amazon.co.uk/AMD-Ryzen-1700-16-Core-3-7-GHz/dp/B06WP5YCX6
Ryzen 7 1700 on sale $290 (base price $330)
Ryzen 7 1700x on sale $325 (base price $400)
Intel 7700k on sale $309 (base price $350)
30% is huge misinformation, these are way more similarly priced than people like to admit. 30% would put the Intel at over 400 dollars on sale. The AMD bias is ridiculous as of late.
There's also three for sale in the Amazon warehouse for only £268.46, which is a fantastic price. Find them here.
I'd say RTX 1660 TI https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GeForce-GTX-1660-Ti/dp/B07N824KNV/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=rtx+1660&qid=1563303111&s=gateway&sr=8-1
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AMD Ryzen 5 2600x https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428V2L/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=amd+ryzen&qid=1563303029&s=gateway&sr=8-5
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MSI B450M Pro- M2 https://www.amazon.com/MSI-ProSeries-Micro-ATX-Motherboard-B450M/dp/B07FJ8V8FV/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=am4+motherboard&qid=1563303061&s=gateway&sr=8-3
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Should be around 550, but if it goes over your budget get a Ryzen 5 2600 , or you can downgrade the gpu and get a XFX Radeon RX 580 https://www.amazon.com/XFX-Radeon-1386MHz-Graphics-RX-580P8DFD6/dp/B06Y66K3XD/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=amd+gpu&qid=1563303407&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Just like everyone else is saying you should wait to see what 3rd gen Ryzen has to offer before making a purchasing decision on a new CPU. Rumor has it 3rd gen ryzen is going to get another core count increase and significant boost to clock speeds so its worth holding off til then. With regards to your GPU you mentioned its starting to give out on you? I assume its out of warrenty by now so that is why you are looking at getting a new GPU.
In the interest of value i would seriously avoid the RTX 2060. The GTX 1660ti is looking like a good value proposition currently and if i had to pick between the 1660ti or the 2060 i would go for the 1660ti. On the other hand you could consider getting an RX 580 8GB. This one on Amazon is only $189.99 and should perform a bit better compared to the RX 480. (assuming you were satisfied with the current performance of the 480) https://www.amazon.com/XFX-Radeon-1386MHz-Graphics-RX-580P8DFD6/dp/B06Y66K3XD/ref=sr_1_3?crid=385DKW1HZJU1A&keywords=rx+580+8gb&qid=1550951906&s=gateway&sprefix=rx+580%2Caps%2C307&sr=8-3
He's talking about the ridiculous XFX GTS XXX Edition... normally 380$ so now its still around the range of most RX580's ($190)
link here
The 8GB 580 is roughly equivalent and had been on sale lately for less. unless you want to go Nvidia over AMD for whatever reason, keep looking.
Also, r/bapcsalescanada
Edit: XFX 8GB 580 (with the 3 games, afaik) on Amazon, also for $280-something.
Scroll down on the product page there's a "Special offers and product promotions section" there confirming you should've gotten the codes. For example on this model: https://www.amazon.com/XFX-Radeon-1386MHz-Graphics-RX-580P8DFD6/dp/B06Y66K3XD/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1537173786&sr=1-3&keywords=rx+580
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Edit: I have checked and only Asus strix and Msi models don't have this on Amazon.
Not sure if you bought already but that graphics card went on sale for $190 Today
I've got two questions that I hope are simple.
EDIT, also, I'm looking for a good, relatively cheap GPU upgrade. Currently rocking an obsolete HD6870 w/ 1gb memory. I'm looking at this card: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y66K3XD/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
It's an XFX RX580 GTS w/ 8GB memory. If you know of any similarly priced cards you'd recommend instead, please let me know.
US Amazon has 2700X for 199 on Prime Day. Thats 8 decent cores/16th for 199. How can I say no
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=2700x&amp;qid=1563233291&amp;s=gateway&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;sr=8-1
Got both of these to start my rebuild. Didn’t expect to get involved in prime day but here I am.
AMD Ryzen 7 2700X Processor with Wraith Prism LED Cooler - YD270XBGAFBOX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iLglDb3CH0W78
Ballistix Sport LT 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR4 3200 MT/s (PC4-25600) CL16 SR x8 DIMM 288-Pin Memory and Prime X470-Pro AMD Ryzen 2 AM4 DDR4 DP HDMI M.2 USB 3.1 ATX Motherboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R3GD184/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dMglDb07SXV1J
Warm deal on a 2700x - $328
https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=sr_1_1
Seems to be an all-time low...(?)
$199 through prime on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Ryzen+7+2700X&qid=1567720819&s=gateway&sr=8-2
Same price on amazon btw.
AMD Ryzen 7 2700X Processor with Wraith Prism LED Cooler - YD270XBGAFBOX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3taVBb0162XAR
You should switch the 1070Ti for a Vega 64 that is going for $400 now. Then buy a monitor with the same specs as yours except add FreeSync. With the money you save, you can buy a 1TB ADATA XPG 8200, That is 3x the speed of an 860evo.
https://www.rakuten.com/shop/adata/product/ASX8200NP-960GT-C/ - $157.00 w/code CYBER20.
This is a way better SSD. Secondly, I'd get this monitor: https://m.newegg.com/products/0JC-0081-00016?ignorebbr=true&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-Mobile&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-Mobile-_-pla-_-Gaming+Monitors-_-0JC-0081-00016&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&amp;gclid=CjwKCAiA0O7fBRASEiwAYI9QArke4IV60srQdwSQext8pHe-xCFr1FEmt9RtQKenrCscC52QtJxlIhoCS-sQAvD_BwE
You'll save ~230$ or so with FreeSync. You'll save another $70 with this Vega 64: https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16814202326
You also get 3 FREE games worth $150.
With all this money saved, drop the wifi adapter for another $60 saved. Then pick up a Ryzen 2700x. https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543247961&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=ryzen+2700x&amp;psc=1
This deal is only 65$ more. Then pick up a X470 motherboard: https://www.amazon.com/TUF-X470-Plus-Gaming-Ryzen-Motherboard/dp/B07C5YR3KS/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543248089&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=x470+motherboard+wifi&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51F37Nfqa0L&amp;ref=plSrch
This is a great motherboard with WiFi. You can find a different one either wifi, and probably get a better deal. This will run you 130$, so around $60 more. Your PSU is meh. This one is the same price and is AMAZING. https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Supernova-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0650-Y1/dp/B01LYGFRL6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543248296&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=evga+supernova+650
Great deal for $5 less. You save around $250 for a much better build overall.
/r/buildapcsales has a ton of deals, like the 2700X for $265
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=sr_1_1?s=cyber-monday&amp;psr=EY17&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543219291&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=2700x
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7GHz 8-Core Processor | €313.11
Motherboard | Asus - PRIME B450-PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard | €104.99 @ Paradigit
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | €156.95 @ Bytes At Work
Storage | Samsung - 750 Evo 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For €0.00
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | €66.90 @ Paradigit
Video Card | Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card | €529.00
Case | Cooler Master - Stryker SE ATX Full Tower Case | Purchased For €0.00
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | €90.95 @ Bytes At Work
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | €1266.85
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-10-31 22:44 CET+0100 |
Here is the build I've made for you using the 2700X. Luckily I also live in the Benelux so I know where you can get some parts cheaper than pcpartpicker says =)
You can get the 2700X for a bit cheaper on amazon.de here. It includes a pretty good stock cooler so you got that covered.
The GTX 1080 can be bought here from a dutch web store. I use them myself and have always gotten what I ordered.
I included a PSU here since you said you wouldn't be reusing yours and I couldn't find the model on pcpartpicker either, but potentially that could also still be used.
EDIT: Forgot the 2TB HDD.
Just wanted to let you know you can get a new 2700x for under $200 (before tax) from amazon, and probably a used one for less than $180 on here
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428M7F?pldnSite=1
If you like Ryzen, my recommendation would be:
Ryzen 2700X
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Ryzen+1800x&qid=1572630237&s=electronics&sr=1-1
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MSI PRO-Carbon Motherboard
500GB NVMe SSD (1TB is kinda overkill for what you want to do).
Corsair Water Cooler (sealed) I think its the H100i?
2x8GB is fine
750w Power Supply is fine
2060 Super
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Q7jV6R
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Choose your monitor/keyobard/mouse. I recommend Corsair for mouse and keyboard, its what I run. This should be plenty
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Personally, Alienware is massively overpriced for what you get. If you want a prebuild, I would look at Triplewrecks company Evolve PC or something like Origin.
Generally you will pay a premium for pre-built obviously. I just am personally not a fan of Alienware
Or better yet for $21 dollars more the 2700X
Amazon just raised the price of the Ryzen 2700X from $420 to $500. What a load of bullshit.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07B428M7F
Edit: and now it's sold out and only being sold by third parties. Is there a Ryzen shortage?
Ryzen 5 3600 is pretty much neck and neck with the Ryzen 7 1700 in multithreaded applications, even with 2 cores and 4 threads less.
£190 gets you a brand new one from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/AMD-Ryzen-3600-Processor-Cache/dp/B07STGGQ18
Beautiful tiny PC but here's a very friendly price break down. I'm using new prices here from Amazon except for the fan. This isn't taking into consideration whether the parts are a day or a year old they are officially used and if you go off of even good/average to great /r/hardwareswap deals this would be quite cheaper and it's hard to add a building tax to a community full of builders.
CPU $200 - Ryzen 3600
MOBO $129 - MSI B450i
GPU $320 - RTX 2060
NVME $90 - Samsung 970 Evo
RAM $90 - XPG 3200 MHz 16GB RGB
COOLER $40 - Noctua NH-L9a
FAN $24 - 25mm 4000 RPM Delta Fan
PSU $90 - OP's model is OOS
Custom SFF Cables - $30-50
CASE - GEEEK A30 + Riser Cable + Shipping = $100.67 (for me)
This is $1,113 for everything, basically new.
I don't really think it's a terrible price at all but the nature of this sub seems to be getting great deals so you can pretty much build a PC you would have never had if you just bought everything new on Amazon etc, especially since I believe this sub is full of PC builders. I have seen some absurd deals on this sub reddit that make me want to quit my job so I can just refresh constantly and that's because I've had a full system for awhile. Just a little food for thought for anybody. With some commitment to checking here you can get a great build for way below retail cost of the parts.
I am a current Junior in Civil Engineering, and I recently went and upgraded my senior year of HS/Freshman year of college computer to this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015PYZ0J6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This was a laptop I chose for a multitude of reasons: high performance, low cost, easy to upgrade (Youtube links on this laptop specifically detailing how to upgrade compliment the manufacturers on how well-thought-out the design was), good battery life (this is on the low/middle gaming laptop spectrum, and because of this has good battery life), and overall nice looking design. For me I needed a laptop that could run the graphic intensive software that Civil Engineering students use in their upper division classes, while also being able to game on it - in college, from my experience, computer gaming is the most popular. All of the links below are upgrades that go with the laptop well. They are not needed but, they are helpful and relatively cheap. If you have any questions feel free to ask by PM.
RAM upgrade:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006YG8X9Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
SSD:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TGIVZTW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Cooling fan (optional):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NNMB3KS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I've use 2 of the same: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006YG8X9Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
Works flawlessly
I've had it running in a Jail in Freenas for a little over a year now without any real issues. I don't have to reboot it after awhile either. I've had the boot usb drive die (mini-samsung didn't like the constant heat I think) and the network card die (realtek is realshit).
Hardware List:
I did something similar recently:
$318 plus tax - I'm running nodes for half a dozen cryptocurrencies on it.
No problem, I'm glad that it helped. These are the fans I got by the way: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Put a fan on it... My extruder was getting 'too-hot-to-touch' after 30-45 minutes of printing so I got this fan and zip tied it to the extruder. Now after the same 30-45 minutes of printing, the extruder is 'cool-to-the-touch'!
Update for everyone:
Conclusion:
Hopefully in a couple of weeks I'll be back with a successful picture!
/u/hockeyhippie and /u/johnedwa if you have any input.
I have a 28MP and I swapped the fans for Noctua ones which helped a lot. It was loud enough to hear through a closet door before I swapped them. I'm super-sensitive to fan noise, though. I'm sure a lot of people would be totally satisfied with the original fans.
This may not be very DIY, but I replaced all my fans with 40mm Noctuas. They are $14 on amazon. Quieter, and way better quality.
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492304643&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=noctua+40mm
The majority of 1U switches on the market come equipped with standard 40mm single or double thickness fans. Although somewhat expensive, Noctura makes a killer alternative that kicks out 4.83 CFM at 17.9dba:
http://www.amazon.com/40x10mm-A-Series-Bearing-Premium-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M
At the same price though, you can get two Sythe fans with slightly lower flow (4.11 CFM) but a tad quieter as well (14 dba):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LB0M8S
Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin (40x10mm, Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bwI1DbD78N5KF
Comes with a 3 to 2 pin adapter with diode to prevent reverse polarity
For future reference when you have more money, I recently got one of these HBA cards this vendor and it works fine and was properly updated/flashed: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-H310-6Gbps-SAS-HBA-LSI-9211-8i-P20-IT-Mode-ZFS-FreeNAS-unRAID-High-Air-Flow/162834671120
I use this for a cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018YHS8BS/
And use this for cooling the heatsink: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/
+100 for the Noctua. :-) Whisper quiet & better airflow. 6 YEAR Warranty. Quality stuff.
For the Hotend, use a 40x10mm:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M
For the Parts fan, I upgraded to a Fang and used this 40x20mm:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071W93333
Here's a pic of my setup:
https://imgur.com/dl26HJZ
This is the Fang cooler:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2473423
And here's the front Cooling Duct - protects from sticking items in the fan blades, and speeds the airflow. Plus it looks cool! ;-)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2514413
PuterPro
I got the Noctua 40x10mm
I have one on my Hot End already and it works great, keep the temp cool just fine.
I used these in my USG-PRO to great success.
I have the RS815 and the RS214, and they're really not bad. There's an option in the configuration to favor fast or cool, which varies the fan speeds to reduce noise. I had them in a cabinet (open back, definitely not sealed) in a bedroom for a while. I did eventually go so far as to replace the fans but I wouldn't strictly say it's necessary. Heavy load you're definitely going to notice it, but even at that it's still quieter than most 1U full depth servers, and I hardly noticed it under normal load, and nice and quiet idle. I was really happy when they came out with the shallow depth RS815, much easier to find a home for it.
This monitor if you don't need DVI: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-monitor-vn248h
The M500 is $110 over at Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-240GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-CT240M500SSD1/dp/B00BQ8RM1A).
The FX-6300 is $110 over at Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009O7YORK)
This is a better GPU for the $100 price range: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202081
Could change your cpu, gfx card and mobo to this.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813135318
Mobo: $47: Basic "4 egg" FX support Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127687
GFX card: $100: ATI 7770
http://www.amazon.com/AMD-FX-Series-Six-Core-Processor-FD6300WMHKBOX/dp/B009O7YORK
CPU: $122: AMD FX 6300 6 core cpu 3.5ghz turbo of 4.1ghz
I added up your total, it would be $478
That's the same price as new from Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/M5A78L-M-LX-PLUS-Micro-Motherboard/dp/B005WUUFBW
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009O7YORK/ref=pd_aw_sims_1?pi=SS115&amp;simLd=1
Just saying
You do not need both.
The Thermaltake Floe is an AIO (all in one) unit. It is for cooling CPU only. You don't need to buy anything else for it. If you're looking for a good AIO, I recommend Corsair's Hydro line. The Corsair H100i is amazing. And if you want that nice 360mm radiator, the H150i just launched. H for Hydro. The H150i may be hard to find as it is new.
The Pacific M4 is just a waterblock. Standalone waterblocks are for custom liquid cooling loops. Unlike an AIO if you bought this, you would need tubing, fittings, a pump, a reservoir, coolant, and radiators.
Also unlike AIO's, waterblocks are specific to parts. AIO's tend to be pretty universal. For example, that Pacific M4 is only for use on ASUS TUF X299 MARK1. There may be other compatible boards... but probably not.
Custom watercooling tends to be significantly more expensive. EKWB does have a pretty decent aluminum line for much lower costs. There are some caveats with it, but it's pretty simple. If you do go custom, I highly recommend staying away from Thermaltake. Someone recently posted about a 1080ti that got destroyed by a Thermaltake GPU block. Might have been a Titan... not sure... Either way, it was a sad sight to see.
Check out /r/watercooling if you a)want to see amazing rigs or b) have more questions about custom watercooling loops!
TLDR:
No. When buying a Floe of Corsair Hydro, all you need is the AIO. DON'T buy the Pacific M4 unless you have more money to spend.
I'm doing that right now. I found this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019EXSSBG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
And I'll look into a bigger hard drive/SSD
Edit: that link doesnt work right...its the H75 120mm
This card should easily fit:
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-06G-P4-6163-KR/dp/B01IPVSLTC
Also make sure you have one 6 pin PCIe power plug from the power supply.
https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-06G-P4-6163-KR/dp/B01IPVSLTC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509733461&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=evga+gtx+1060+6163
I'm waiting to pull the trigger as well.
That's really high for this sub, these are 260 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IPVSLTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_71y8BbAHRGZKT
Gigabyte for the coil whine or EVGA for the House Fire. I kid, mostly.
EVGA 1060 SC version is alright.
Do not get the cheapo one (which overheats at 91C under load); avoid their ACX 3.0 cooled versions (SSC and FTW models) for now.
How mini is your ITX case? Do you really need to settle on a single fan option?
just saying, 7700k is on sale for 290 right now
>Just looking for suggestions on what type of CPU and GPU I should be looking towards and I can figure out the rest.
In terms of the CPU, you have a couple options.
If you want the best gaming performance, you'll want the i7 7700k and a Z270 motherboard and a cooler. This specific combo comes to about $620~ +tax & shipping.
On the other hand, if you'd like to save some money, you can choose the Ryzen 1600 (or Ryzen 1700) and pair it with a B350 motherboard. The combo is a mere $380~ +tax (or $450 with the 1700). Also, pair a couple sticks of high speed RAM with Ryzen (3000 - 3200MHz) and you'll see significant performance gains in your games.
AMD's Ryzen is definitely the best value on the market right now, with that being said the 7700k is the undisputed winner when it comes to gaming performance. When it comes to a graphics card, you'll want to pick up a 1080ti (wait until you can get one of these for $900 or less, check r/bapcsalescanada several times daily and you can snag a good deal) if you want to game in 4k. However, if you'll just be playing games @ 1080p in your VR headset you can probably safely pick up the cheaper 1080 or 1070 cards.
For your 4K monitor there are a lot of options and it really depends what is on sale when you buy. The LG 27UD58-B is well regarded and a great value currently.
8700k is last gen and so stock is getting low, prices are unlikely to drop a ton outside of certain circumstances, odds are that price might even go up.
EDIT: take a look at 7700k price: https://smile.amazon.com/Intel-i7-7700K-Desktop-Processor-unlocked/dp/B01MXSI216/
When you say upgrade, from what? Do you have a z170 motherboard?
Also $350 doesn't sound like a sale, sounds like full price. You can get an unlocked 7700K on amazon for cheaper and that can overclock.
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Desktop-Processor-i7-7700K-BX80677I77700K/dp/B01MXSI216
Dude I love you for that meme, we say that at work all the time lol.
MB: MSI whatever whatever
RAM: Good shit, DDR4
CPU: i7 7700 babyyyy
GPU: R9 390 MSI
Case
1TB SSD from Intel, dunno which I forget
750w Corsair PS
CPU Cooler
144hz Display
Because they are not. Let's take the german amazon for example:
4460 200€
6300 120€
Also, "more than double the FPS" show me examples please. Can't argue with someone biased. I'm not trying to say AMD is better, it's just better in budget builds or for people who already have an AM3+ board from previous generations (Phenom X3 X4 for example) and want to upgrade, this was my case and I'm happy with my FX6300 that I bought for 95€ new.
Building a PC (obviously) and getting some mixed results in regards to two different CPU's. I'd like opinions on which ones to choose from.
The Intel Boxed Core I5-6600K was my original choice, but I've had some people try to convince me to get AMD FD6300WMHKBOX FX-6300 instead. Obviously there's a big price difference between these two CPU's, but I'm hearing a lot of "intel marks up their prices way too much" and "the amd can do everything intel will do and has two more cores anyway" and other stuff like that which, to me, just sounds like AMD fanboyism trying to discredit the other CPU, but I also admit I don't actually know that much and that they could be right. Also, the fact that there's multiple of them.
So I'd like some input from you guys!
tl;dr: Intel Boxed Core I5-6600K or AMD FD6300WMHKBOX FX-6300
I agree with /u/Condesending_Android , you can try to go for a newer FX-6300. It's actually slightly cheaper right now on Amazon
The rest looks good, although you may be able to find a cheaper 7870 Ghz if you look around (there were some sales before, but I'm not sure if they are still going on). Unless you really prefer the XFX version, then by all means go for it :)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009O7YORK/?tag=pcpapi-20
fx-6300, same price
Your prices are a bit high. That 970 is $90 bnib http://www.amazon.com/MSI-970-GAMING-DDR3-Motherboard/dp/B00LUY72F6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463468879&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=motherboard+am3&amp;refinements=p_72%3A2661618011 and that CPU is only $10 more for bnib http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009O7YUF6/ref=psdc_229189_t1_B009O7YU56 I realize you are including shipping but so does Amazon.
So you have two choices.
You can buy an FX 8300 @ $114.99
And learn to overclock.
Or
Buy an FX 8350 @ $155.87
Your motherboard doesn't support something like the FX 9590, too much power.
Even with the the 4Ghz FX 8350, i highly recommend you overclock. These CPUs are 4 years old and they weren't lightning fast to begin with.
Good luck.
Here's a list of the parts.
Case
http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-CA-1B2-00M1NN-00-Mid-tower-Computer-Chassis/dp/B00J0NZ3Q4?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s04
Motherboard
http://www.amazon.com/MSI-Computer-Motherboard-970A-G43-PLUS/dp/B01BI0X6KQ?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s03
Graphics Card
http://www.amazon.com/GeForce-750Ti-GDDR5-Graphics-GTX750TI-OC-2GD5/dp/B00IB9P1KG?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02
Ram
http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-HyperX-FURY-2x4GB-1866MHz/dp/B00J8E90I2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01
HD
http://www.amazon.com/Biwin-Flash-128GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B00W0Y4WJY?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01
PSU
http://www.amazon.com/Apevia-Java-650W-Power-Supply/dp/B004J0WQ2M?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01
CPU
http://www.amazon.com/AMD-FD8350FRHKBOX-FX-8350-FX-Series-Processor/dp/B009O7YUF6?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
Total comes out to like 498 or 520$ after tax. If you plan to travel a lot etc... I would stick to a laptop though. Also it has a tiny HD as it's not exactly for someone who uses a whole lot of space.
Chances are the prices will have changed by whenever, but it gives an idea on budget ones.
Save the money? They're within 20 dollars if you get a 3570k
3570k
8350
And that's the K version, the normal version is even cheaper and still better.
If you're looking to save as much money and pull it off as "playable" you're probably looking at replacing the fx6300 with an 8350 + hope you have a PCI-E slot for a USB 3.0 card.
If you have the expansion slot you can do this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/AMD-Black-Vishera-Clock-Turbo/dp/B009O7YUF6 - 75 Euros
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ - 20 Euros
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Zotac-NVIDIA-GeForce-GDDR5-Graphics/dp/B01IA9FEOO - 250 Euros.
I'd still recommend getting out of the AM3 CPUs and upgrading, but understand budget constraints suck!
It sounds like it would be worth the upgrade. More games are being optimized for more cores and it really starts to make a difference with newer titles.
Newegg Reviews Search
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113284&amp;cm_re=8350-_-19-113-284-_-Product
Amazon Reviews Search
Amazon only has 1 review for 975 to 8350. Newegg has 4. I really hope in the future these reviews would have a field for previous hardware to help gauge where they were coming from.
Just wanted to point out that Amazon has price matched.
It can be another model, there's nothing inherently wrong with mixing and matching brands and models as long as they're of a size configuration that your computer supports. I think most people generally like to keep their fans consistent, but that's mostly an aesthetic thing. If you want to stick with the same fan model that came with the case, the fan that comes mountaed on the front of the Meshify C is this one: http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/casefans/dynamic-series/dynamic-x2-gp-12. The case can support up to 3 120mm front fans, so you could add two more on the front with little difficulty.
One point to consider if you're thinking of adding a bunch of fans is that past a certain point your mobo may not have enough sys_fan connectors to support all of them. This is easily fixed, though, by getting either a fan controller or however many fan splitter cables you may need to get easy inputs for all of your fans (I used https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ on one of my builds and it worked well enough).
A fan splitter should work.
You could use fan splitters: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B46XKKQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482862919&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=fan+splitter
Or a fan hub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VNW556I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482863008&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=fan+hub&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41yV5kjgjRL&amp;ref=plSrch
So, the Pioneer GM-7200 is a Car Power Amp? Yes?
Does it have any controls on it - Crossover, Phase, Volume,....?
The thing you need is the controls I spoke of. If you do not have those, there may be a way around it, but it is going to give you limited flexibility.
If the amp is a Car Stereo Power Amp, then the first thing you will need is a beefy 12v Power Supply.
Current = Power / Voltage
So, 400w / 12v = 33.333 AMPS
You need about a 30 amp to 40 amp Power Supply.
Some thing along the line of this -
https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG
I make no claim for the quality of this power supply, it was simply the first one that came up on a search.
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=30a+12v+power+supply&amp;safe=off&amp;tbm=shop
If you have an AV Receiver, then we assume reasonably that it has Bass Management. Meaning, it will set the crossover frequency for the Sub.
So, that should cover the basics. When you run the Setup program for the AV Receiver, it should adjust the volume of the Sub to match the other speakers.
Steve/bluewizard
This is excellent information, thank you. It's been a bit overwhelming looking at all the mods out there which are a "definitely do this before you print anything or you'll burn your house down" and "this helps but can probably wait for now".
I've already soldered the wires to the heated bed and started installing a mosfet for the bed as well. (Sounds like one isn't really needed for the hot end?)
Do I need something like the 500w ATX PSU, or can I get away with something like this (recommended by the Punished Props Anet safety upgrade page)
Can you tell me more about that fix for the heater block with kapton tape? I saw it recommended that I switch to one of these? (recommended by the letsprint3d.net Anet safety mods page)
This. My power supply was dead on arrival and wouldn't fire up. The ones that ship with the kit are kinda crap.
Bought this one on Amazon and it's been great for 1.5 years.
eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Gmb4Cb8FSPKHQ
Only downside is it won't directly screw to the frame. I have mine sitting next to the printer.
I've done similar to several old drills. Usually adapting to run on car batteries.
You want to use the plus and minus terminals, the other is a temperature sensor for the charger.
Making it so that you can still use the original battery is a little trickier. I've used a dowel as a dummy battery to hold the contacts in place on a Makita.
Drills will need a power supply that delivers about 10 amps. an old dumb battery charger will work. Or you can get something like this.
To answer your question directly:
12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_JgaFwbK9DGQ1E
Assuming your i3 is 12 volts not 24.
You should definitely replace it. I replaced my stock A8 PSU with this one: eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pye9AbCXGDZ5C
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D7CWSCG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1464231755&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=12+volt+power+supply+switching&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41uyGgXDhEL&amp;ref=plSrch
Theres a pot you can adjust to bring the voltage up closer to 13.8. I dont have one but the reviews all looked pretty good.
Those are indeed 10W warm white LEDs.
It's been running 12/12 for about 3 weeks with no issues. The LEDs don't get as hot as the buck boosters I'm using to drive them to 11.2V each.
The power supply was basically this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
>5 months ago
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/
Powerwerx from HRO
.
Samlex from DXE
.
If you want to go cheap, you can try one of these from Amazon. You'll need to add things such as wiring up a power cord and putting it into an enclosure, twisting the pots to get the exact voltage you need, checking that voltage periodically, etc, etc. It does take some more work to make it all work. I have one of these, and it works. However, I also have a Powerwerx and I like that better.
.
Personally, I'd recommend the Powerwerx. You can optionally pop the cover off and bolt the TM-V71A bracket right to the PSU and wire the TM-V71A to the posts on the back. That leaves the powerpoles on the front to power other things.
It was the PSU! I replaced it with this one and now I'm printing again!
I would classify that as "potential system killer". Do yourself a favor and upgrade ASAP.
Here's a decent 500w PSU that won't break the bank or your components.
Edit: Here's a handy guide for PSU quality tiers
heres a evga bronze 500w one for around the same price which I think is better than this 600w. https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Supply-Warranty-100-B1-0500-KR/dp/B00DZ6R9GE
IMO, I'd get this psu instead -- roughly the same price, WAAAY more reviews (so, presumably, more consistent).
Also, for a couple more dollars, you can double your HDD storage.
CHANGE NOW!!!!!! If you have the bank go with the evga p2 supernova but if not stick with an evga bronze or silver listed [here] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DZ6R9GE/ref=twister_B01G69E69E?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
Not a fan of that PSU, especially considering ryzen chips draw quite a bit of power when overclocked. You can find 500w 80+ bronze ones for about 30-40 bucks right now. And yes, there is a difference in efficiency from 80+ and 80+ bronze.
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DZ6R9GE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500427322&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=500w+bronze&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=4158jP7Q8kL&amp;ref=plSrch
Yes it did.
I'm using this one.
http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
Would something like this suffice Inateck Superspeed 7 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - 5 USB 3.0 Ports and 2 Rear USB 3.0 Ports Express Card Desktop with 15 Pin SATA Power Connector, Including Two Power Cables (KT5002) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oOMEDb6Q51NRV
http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA is the reccomended usb card for those who does not have the required usb slots (Like me). I ordered one myself a few days ago actually.
Its pretty cheap and has 7 usb3 slots!
Its Oculus themselves who has it as reccomended on their support page btw.
Oops, sorry, posting from my phone at work.
Inateck Superspeed 7 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - Interface USB 3.0 5-Port & 2 Rear USB3.0 Port Express Card Desktop with 15 pin SATA Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_1xZM9AfOjkUAG
Oculus themselves link to this Amazon page, that has TWO versions. 2 slots and 4 slots; http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA and even say you just need the Fresco Logic FL1100EX chipset.
EDIT: I'm also perplexed by your argument in this case. If someone has an SLI setup, with no compatible on-board ports, their best option is to buy a new $1000 prebuilt rather than say, upgrade their motherboard for 1/4th - 1/5th the price?
Most / all high-end motherboards today are full PCIe, 3.0 and 2.0. I could fit 3 of these expansion cards into my current SLI setup.
Yep, I use this one for exactly that reason. Works great as long as you use the drivers automatically installed by Windows instead of the ones from the manufacture.
I also have Vive + Skype + Logitech camera (I think the same model as you).
What I found is that it was intermittently causing conflicts. The best fix was to unplug the Logitech when using Vive, and unplug the Vive USB when using the Logitech.
If you don't want to do that, then what I have found to be helpful, but not a perfect fix, is to make sure the two devices are on separate USB host controllers (So if Vive is on your front ports, put the camera on your back ports). This seemed to make things more reliable for me, but I would still have some random issues.
Another item that seemed to make it more reliable to me, though also not a complete fix, was to install an additional USB card to free up USB resources. With USB 3.0, it's easy to run out of USB resources, which will typically result in a momentary message from Windows when a USB device is first plugged in (And you may not see that message in time if you are bent over trying to see your ports). That can cause some USB devices to misbehave. I bought and installed this USB card, and have not had an issue since. (Using a USB hub did NOT fix such issues.)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IKDETOW/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1450426191&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX118_SY170_QL70&amp;keywords=evga+power+supply&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51VBQdIVkOL&amp;ref=plSrch
This :)
Get this psu instead
EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G2, 80+ GOLD 650W, Fully Modular, EVGA ECO Mode, 7 Year Warranty, Includes FREE Power On Self Tester Power Supply 220-G2-0650-Y1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0106RDIN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sXJyzbZD1CXJR
G2 which I see people here claim it's quieter/better is 7.75$ more
You'll want a better PSU.
This should cover you for all future upgrades. PSU's are critical. It's not wise to skimp on them.
Other than that, you could use better RAM, but it's not 100% needed.
Here is my build list formated for reddit
Group | Name | Price | Quantity | Total | Link
--- | --- | --- | --- | --- | ---
Pc | (Everything Inside the case) | | | |
$1,601.62 | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $347.00 | 1 | $347.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012M8LXQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Cooler Master Hyper D92 54.8 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler | $44.80 | 1 | $44.80 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NXLYE4G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $171.49 | 1 | $171.49 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012N6EW6G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $129.99 | 1 | $129.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OTJZTZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.99 | 1 | $97.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAJ412U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Hitachi HDS723020BLA642 | $58.00 | 3 | $174.00 | EBay
| EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $459.99 | 1 | $459.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I60OGUK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| EVGA 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $90.39 | 1 | $90.39 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYK1CC6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| XFX AMD Radeon HD 5450 1GB | $29.99 | 2 | $59.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005IUW7YE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| PWM Female to 4 x PWM Male Computer Case Fan Splitter | $6.50 | 2 | $13.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DYQRFY6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Sabrent 2.5" SSD & SATA Hard Drive to Desktop 3.5" | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UN550AC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 80MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 2 | $0.00 |
| 92MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 4 | $0.00 |
Monitors | | | | |
$744.66 | Seiki Pro SM28UTR 28-Inch 4K UHD 3840x2160 | $195.69 | 1 | $195.69 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013XWQF28/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| AOC e2460Sd 24-Inch Widescreen LED Monitor | $142.99 | 3 | $428.97 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C99MUHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Dell 17" 5:4 | $30.00 | 4 | $120.00 | EBay
Cables | | | | |
$137.77 | Cable Matters Gold Plated DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable 10 Feet | $11.99 | 1 | $11.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H3Q5E0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Cable Matters Active DisplayPort to DVI Male to Female Adapter | $19.99 | 2 | $39.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT01TO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| DVI Male to Female 90 Degree Adapter Connector | $4.43 | 3 | $13.29 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008X0ZJZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 15ft 28AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable - Black | $10.47 | 3 | $31.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&amp;cp_id=10209&amp;cs_id=1020902&amp;p_id=2760&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
| 15ft Super VGA M/M | $5.69 | 4 | $22.76 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&amp;cp_id=10201&amp;cs_id=1020101&amp;p_id=3622&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
| 15ft USB 2.0 A Male to A Female Extension | $1.87 | 5 | $9.35 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=103&amp;cp_id=10303&amp;cs_id=1030304&amp;p_id=5435&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
| 25ft hdmi cable | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SKVMHI4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Desk Accesseries | | | | |
$263.49 | Perixx PX-5200 Cherry MX Blue | $72.91 | 1 | $72.91 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NY45NCY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Logitech C310 Webcam | $31.93 | 1 | $31.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LVZO8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Lapel Mics | $6.50 | 1 | $6.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJOIHE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| FingerPrint Reader | $12.58 | 1 | $12.58 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHHP7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Mouse Pad | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GB0IF50/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Headset Func HS260 | $79.99 | 1 | $79.99 | https://www.amazon.com/FUnc-FUNC-HS-260-1ST-fUnc-HS-260/dp/B00HH3H83U
| Altec ACS 54 - Speaker | $0.00 | 1 | $0.00 |
| Logitech G700S | $50.59 | 1 | $50.59 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BFOEY3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Audio Accesseries | | | | |
$58.33 | BEHRINGER MICROAMP HA400 | $24.99 | 1 | $24.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KIPT30/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 5-Pack 6.35mm Male to 3.5mm Female Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAQD4YA/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 3.5mm Male to 2 x 3.5mm Female Splitter Cable | $3.99 | 1 | $3.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081ZBNI4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Coupler 3.5 mm Female - 3.5 mm Female Stereo or Mono | $3.93 | 1 | $3.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O4N/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 3 feet Slim 3.5mm Stereo Audio Cable - M/M | $2.71 | 2 | $5.42 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G3UK5C/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 3-Feet 3.5mm Stereo Male to Female Extension Cable, 5-Pack | $12.01 | 1 | $12.01 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWOJLSS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Lighting | | | | |
$86.88 | Studio Designs Swing Arm Lamp Black | $24.75 | 2 | $49.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2S7MHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Lutron TT-300NLH-BL Credenza Lamp Dimmer Black | $14.83 | 1 | $14.83 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00024BJZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Triple Outlet Swivel Adapter, White | $3.27 | 1 | $3.27 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HJBENG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Daylight LED Light Bulb 15W | $9.64 | 2 | $19.28 | https://www.walmart.com/ip/Great-Value-GVRLA1850ND-Great-Value-LED-15W-A19-Light-Bulb/38596922
Cable Managment | | | | |
$18.81 | 100 Velcro Ties | $5.00 | 2 | $10.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 100 Releasable cable ties | $2.47 | 3 | $7.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&amp;cp_id=10520&amp;cs_id=1052012&amp;p_id=5795&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
| Cable Clip nais | $0.70 | 2 | $1.40 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&amp;cp_id=10520&amp;cs_id=1052006&amp;p_id=5834&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
Power | | | | |
$53.13 | Monster MP AV 750 Audio Video PowerCenter | $18.99 | 1 | $18.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ETIKH8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| AmazonBasics 6-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip 2-Pack | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TP1BWMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 3 Outlet Single-Tap Wall Tap | $4.00 | 2 | $8.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XQORTO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 15ft 16AWG Power Cord Cable | $5.20 | 1 | $5.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&amp;cp_id=10228&amp;cs_id=1022801&amp;p_id=5287&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
| 10ft 18AWG Right Angle Power Cord Cabl | $2.65 | 3 | $7.95 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&amp;cp_id=10228&amp;cs_id=1022809&amp;p_id=7677&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
Network | | | | |
$33.98 | TP-LINK 8-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch | $22.99 | 1 | $22.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EVGIYG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 5-Pack, Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable in Blue 3 Feet | $10.99 | 1 | $10.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C2B81K6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Monitor Mount | | | | |
$215.27 | Arm wall mount | $17.54 | 3 | $52.62 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&amp;cp_id=10828&amp;cs_id=1082821&amp;p_id=12232&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
| Top wall mount bracket | $4.80 | 4 | $19.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&amp;cp_id=10828&amp;cs_id=1082821&amp;p_id=3005&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
| Center Monitor Mount | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&amp;cp_id=10828&amp;cs_id=1082821&amp;p_id=4564&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
| 2x8 | $7.47 | 3 | $22.41 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Top-Choice-Common-2-in-x-8-in-x-10-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-7-25-in-x-10-ft-Lumber/4082916
| 2x4 | 2.55 | 1 | $2.55 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-2-in-x-4-in-x-8-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-3-5-in-x-8-ft-Stud/1000074211
| 3" clamp | $5.98 | 6 | $35.88 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-3-in-Clamp/50214643
| 4" Hinge | $2.81 | 2 | $5.62 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-4-in-H-Oil-Rubbed-Bronze-Interior-Exterior-Mortise-Door-Hinge/4772785
| Wood Screws | $9.00 | 1 | $9.00 | Lowes
| Assorted brackets/hardware | $25.00 | 1 | $25.00 | Lowes
| Case Rack Mount | $35.00 | 1 | $35.00 | EBay
Misc | | | | |
$35.97 | Steam Link | $19.99 | 1 | $19.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Bluetooth Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | GRANDCOW Bluetooth 4.0 USB Adapter Dongle for Windows 10/ 8.1 / 8/ 7 / Vista / XP
| 19 Key Numeric Keypad | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJSAAU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
CPU: Intel i7 6700K
Heatsink:CoolMaster Hyper 212 Evo
Motherboard: MSI B250
RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOA 850 P2
Video Card: ASUS ROG-STRIX-GTX1080
Storage: WD Black 1TB
Extra Performance for OS: WD Blue 250GB SSD
Also on sale on Amazon.ca for same price.
Nope, straight up new i7 6700k.
Link here: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B012M8LXQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Hr9VCbMCZMWCF
CamelCamelCamel shows this is the lowest price it has ever been on Amazon.
Thats a very power hungry chip. You’re gonna want full cooling. Some mini-heatsinks and good airflow would do, but you cannot just run a core waterblock and be done. If watercooling, I actually recommend using an AIO with a NZXT G12 bracket, since it will provide be cheaper than an entire loop, and probably cool the same, since its in direct silicon contact. If you already have a loop though, then go with the waterblock.
For a Universal Waterblock, you need a thermosphere
Thermosphere:
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-thermosphere-nickel
Heres an AIO
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BYP4Ab7SGPX4A
Heres a G12
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYHRMYP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hZP4Ab4JEJC1V
You dont even need 240mm, my 980ti which only draws 25w less than the 390 is perfectly fine on 120mm rad.
If you're going with an AIO, the Corsair H100i v2 is currently $45 off on Amazon. The Kraken is nice, but you definitely pay a premium for the RGB.
You could pair the Corsair cooler with a Fractal Designs Meshify C case and save quite a bit over this NZXT build, but I understand it all comes down to personal aesthetic taste.
That should run BF3 on ultra 1080p 60fps, so yeah it'll shit on any game. If your friend wants to spend that much purely for gaming then a 2600k and more than 16GB of ram is a waste. If he goes with an SLI set-up with a high end video card I'd strongly recommend at least 2 monitors otherwise you're not utilizing all of the card/s power. If not get a monitor with a high resolution. Total = £1550 w/ shipping and any other minor adjustments. You can get him the 2600k and 16GB of ram but it's his loss not your's.
Note: I priced it up on Amazon because they are a good maker of pricing for components in the UK, you could probably find some parts cheaper.
Edit: add an SSD if you like, they aren't for everyone. Personally i'd go with a 60gb good make one and stick OS and most played games on it; a 240gb one IMO if a big waste of money. But, each to their own.
For 20$ you should get a cooler master hyper 212+, it has a bigger fan (120mm vs. 92) and will easily allow you to reach the max "on air" overclock of that chip. The stock heatsink will easily allow 3.4 GHZ, possibly more. throw in a coolermaster 4 pack of 120mm case fans, put one on the other side of the hyper 212+, and three in the case. all your cooling needs taken care of for 30$ shipped
for 30$ you might as well get 2x4GB ram. these ones are great
the case and psu are good quality, though you can get the antec bp550w, which is modular, for 10$ more.
170$ for that video card seems pretty standard, with 140$ being even better if you get the rebate to come through.
Reading reviews of that mobo, it seems that the compatible ram list is pretty small, and ram issues seem to happen a lot to that board. in the 100$ range there are several am3+ mobo's which would fit your needs. I suggest going with one that has 2 pci-e x16 slots and runs them at (x16, x8) in crossfire or sli. the one you currently have is x16,x4 which will give less performance if you sli/crossfire down the road. if you don't think you'll crossfire, don't worry about that.
>i7 860
LGA 1156?
The Cooler Master Hyper 212+ is cheap ($20) yet highly functional. The downside is that it's massive and might interfere with sticks of RAM if they have large heatspreaders.
Edit: Seriously? Downvoted for suggesting the most popular cooler amongst /r/buildapc users?
I'd go with a HAF 912 or Zalman Z9 case, as those have more features for the same price or less. And you can spend about ten more bucks and get twice the storage space.
Also, get the Hyper 212+ cooler. The TX3 is primarily a Core 2-era device.
Yeah I'd go with an Intel build at this price point as well. An i5-2400 at stock speeds still pretty handily beats even a 980, and I'm not sure you'd be able to close the gap by overclocking it a little more.
If you could fit a 2500k there wouldn't even be any contest, Intel would be the better cpu for sure.
Your questions:
Edit: Here you go, a much much stronger cpu for only about $10 more.
Part list permalink / Part price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor | $179.99 @ Microcenter
Motherboard | ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard | $122.86 @ Newegg
Memory | Corsair 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory | $33.22 @ Amazon
Hard Drive | Crucial M4 64GB 2.5" Solid State Disk | $105.00 @ B&H
Video Card | HIS Radeon HD 6870 1GB Video Card | $139.99 @ Newegg
Case | Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case | $49.88 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Silverstone 600W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply | $68.98 @ NCIX US
Optical Drive | Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $19.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Acer S231HLbid 23.0" Monitor | $154.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (64-bit) | $99.99 @ Newegg
| | Total
| Prices include shipping and discounts when available. | $974.89
| Generated 2011-12-26 23:14 EST-0500 |
Add in a cheap $20 cooler like this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G1YPH0/?tag=pcpapi-20
And for about $30 more, you get way more performance out of your build.
If you can get it for $30 get the Hyper 212+: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G1YPH0/?tag=pcpapi-20
92mm heatpipes are not nearly as effective as the 120mm ones. I would reccomend the hyper 212+
He does not have an AIO. He has traditional water cooling.
I'm just using a 25$ tower cooler with 4 heat pipes. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G1YPH0
The Liquid Metal thermal paste was about the same price as the cooler itself. I did this back when Liquid Metal was pretty much unheard of and impossible to find. Back when people just started experimenting with deliding their CPUs. It made a 30c difference which is enough to beat traditional water cooling on a non-delided CPU.
My voltage is 1.05 to 1.28 depending on load. For some reason it crashes if I hit 1.3v so I can't take it higher even though I have cooling headroom. I don't think the mobo can supply power reliably as the Package begins to draw near 100W. Right now it pulls up to 84watts. Here are the stats over the last 5 days
http://i.imgur.com/ZaAsn3n.png
You may notice core #0 is 10-12C less than the others. This use to be the typical temp, and core #2 use to always be the coolest of the 4. I noticed this happened after I moved and knocked over the PC. I need to re-apply the Liquid metal but I prolly realistically will never get to it.
Also may notice that I'm not techincally at 4.4Ghz, my real scheme is 4 cores @ 43x, 3cores @ 44x with a 101ish mhz base clock for 4343Mhz full load and 4467Mhz partial load. I have to use this scheme because of my power draw limitation. I think my chip would have been able to go a lot faster otherwise.
Go with the T460. The screen size is much better for programming. Get the FHD IPS screen.
You can find the RAM cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-Single-PC3L-12800-204-Pin-CT102464BF160B/dp/B006YG8X9Y
Any laptop DDR3L will do. You chose the correct part, just not the best deal.
Check out this SSD (or go one size higher, partially paid for with the money you save on RAM :) ): https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-2-5-Inch-Height-SDSSDHII-240G-G25/dp/B00M8ABEIM
Any 2.5" SATA SSD will do.
Don't pay Geek Squad. You'll be paying money just for someone to unscrew a few screws and insert a card into a slot, and another into another, then rescrew the screws.
Your T460 will have two RAM slots. Buy your 8GB stick, insert it with the 4GB, and you will have 12GB. Ignore people on /r/buildapc; you're not building a PC and they've somewhat confused or misled you. In this case you will have read about dual channel RAM, but it's negligible for your cases compared to the benefits of more RAM and/or upgradeability later (so I'm saying you should prefer one 8GB stick over 4+4 to enable upgrading later more easily, which outweighs dual-channel benefits that you won't notice). Plus, with 8+4, the matching 4GB of each can be in dual channel mode anyway.
If you're looking for something light, I would recommend looking into the Asus k501 for $870. It is very powerful with a skylake i7 processor, 8gb of ram, 512gb ssd, and a 960M graphics card. You are also able to easily upgrade the ram to 16gb by just buying an 8gb stick for $32 and adding it yourself.
It is pretty light for a 15.6 inch at 4.4 pounds though, and it has a decent battery that can last up to 5 or 6 hours of light use.
I can't really find anything under 15.6 inch that has 16gb ram, and most smaller laptops have soldered on ram so you cannot upgrade it if there is only 8gb.
I’ve used a pair of these and they work and are 8gb but there is a drop down to select other sizes available in single and kits
Crucial 8GB Single DDR3/DDR3L 1600 MT/S (PC3-12800) Unbuffered SODIMM 204-Pin Memory - CT102464BF160B https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006YG8X9Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.MNPCbHDK5FRT
Yep. It comes with a single 8GB stick and an open slot, so you can get this 8GB Stick to throw in there if you really want 16GB. Unless you're running a bunch of VM's or doing huge video editing projects, you likely would never need that much though.
3600
3600X
3700X
3900X
&#x200B;
The 3200Gand 3800X seem to have not been stored on google's servers
https://www.amazon.ca/Ryzen-3600-12-thread-unlocked-processor/dp/B07STGGQ18/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=ryzen+5+3600&amp;qid=1569786020&amp;sr=8-1 6 cores 12 threads and it comes with a cooler
get a 3600 195$ and a x570 mobo
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-3600-12-Thread-Processor/dp/B07STGGQ18/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=3600&amp;qid=1573357500&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-3
expensiveish option mobo
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-X570-Motherboard-DDR4-PCIe/dp/B07T4M4XPG/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=x570&amp;qid=1573357521&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-1
cheap 3rd gen option mobo
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-ProSeries-Motherboard-B450M-PRO-VDH/dp/B07XH629TV/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=b450m&amp;qid=1573357595&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-9
price to performance king
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B07B41WS48/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=2600&amp;qid=1573357709&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-1
The CPU. Get the Ryzen 5 3600 it's not only about the same price but it outperforms the Ryzen 7 2700x by a fair gap
3600
And it is available on Amazon right now
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B07STGGQ18/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=new
Sharing my experience with the Tomahawk B450.
I bought it before reaching this subreddit.
List of parts bought on amazon:
Msi B450 Tomahawk
Ryzen 3600
Patriot Viper 16GB X2
Samsung NVME 1TB 970
Parts I had and reused for the build:
Zotac GTX 1060 6GB
Cooler master Master Box Case
Seasonic Modular PSU (will update later on the exact model)
Samsung 1TB HDD
Parts I bought for the Bios Flashing:
Amd AM4 Athlon 200GE with Vega geaphics
After reading some of the posts here and the updates I figured I would need an updated bios on my motherboard before connecting the 3600.
Failing to find a store/repair shop to do the bios upgrade for me I bought the cheapest AM4 I could find in my region (Israel) to do the flashing.
I assembled the PC with one RAM stick, the Athlon 200GE, No Cmos Battery, connected to the DVI port of the motherboard, inserted a USB stick with the latest Bios from the MSI website ( 7C02v1A ), started the built in flash utility of the Bios, and waited.
The flashing process took a while, so for everyone doing the flashing "blind" (with the button and the USB method) you should wait at least 10 minutes between tries.
After the process finished, I shut down the computer, unplugged the PSU, did a power release (Clicked the power button a bunch of times), and swaped the Athlon with the 3600.
Booted UP, looked at the leds on the motherboard....CPU...VGA....and stuck.
Thought maybe I failed to do anything right, and then remembered the 3600 doesnt have GPU built in.
Truned off the PC, unplugged the PSU, did a power release (Clicked the power button a bunch of times), and Inserted the GTX 1060.
Connected the DVI cable to the GPU, turned on the PC, waited for the leds. And voila, booting properly and going into bios.
&#x200B;
At this point I shut down the PC again,unplugged the PSU, did a power release (Clicked the power button a bunch of times), and plugged the rest of the components (Another RAM stick, NVME, HDD, Wireless PCIE card), did all the cable management needed and closed the case.
&#x200B;
Turned on the PC, got into Bios settings, changed some settings, mainly XMP, and booting options, and booted into the USB3 thumbdrive with WIN10 1903 install.
&#x200B;
Finished installing the OS, booting into windows, sudden restart, then again, and again???????
Windows showing error "Windows failed to start"
Trying Safe mode, windows is stable, driver issue.
Reset Bios settings, windows is stable.
Changing settings 1 by 1:
XMP - Stable
Vitrualazation - Stable
&#x200B;
Didn't pusue any more changes than that ATM.
&#x200B;
PC is working fast, no issues so far.
Will update if anything changes.
&#x200B;
TL;DR
My system works, I don't do any overclocking whatsoever, your mileage may vary.
It isn't the hubs fault, it's mostly the USB consortium lying about the real world practical throughput of their technology for marketing purposes. Tom's HW has a good technical writeup on it, it's from 2012 but most of it still applies: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/usb-3-uas-turbo,3215.html
Ultimately you want no more than 3 drives per USB controller. PCI-e cards like this are ideal, as they contain 4 separate buses (allowing 12 total drives at ~120 MB speeds) https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=sr_1_1
Oculus recommends the $80 Startech with 4 USB controllers as the ultimate offering.
However, the Startech single usb controller card (similar to the inateck) seems to also work, and is only $30-$40. While Oculus doesnt state the lesser Starteck card is compatible, the reviews say otherwise
Some USB3 ports don't work well with VR because they dont deliver the nonstop sustained bandwidth and power demands VR HMDs require at all times.
Some examples of problematic chipsets include Renesas and some ASMedia chipsets.
As a result both HTC and Oculus recommend certain add-in chipsets that are known to work. The Rift S is much less tricky to get working than the CV1 because it only needs 1 full bandwidth port instead of 4.
But again because VR demands full bandwidth & power with no interruptions at all times unlike virtually all other USB devices you still need a competent chipset.
Thats not to say your mobo chipset won't work, but if it doesn't buying the $20 expansion card will remedy the issue with rift S.
Rift CV1 you have to buy a card with 4 dedicated USB controllers which is a lot more expensive.
For instance for rift cv1 this card solves problems of many: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ln1pDbS32AMZG
But it's a lot more money than the inateck one I linked for rift S, again since cv1 requires 4 full bandwidth ports.
It sounds like your sensors are dead so best time to upgrade to rift S anyway. You may not need to buy anything extra but I figured I'd give you the information ahead of time in case you had an issue.
This one reads 15 8TB drives for me in 36 seconds on Jminer. It has a Molex connection but seems to work pretty well without additional power. 3 powered hubs attached.
4 Port PCI Express (PCIe) SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Card Adapter w/ 4 Dedicated 5Gbps Channels - UASP - SATA / LP4 Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_u5W5uiQEv2aZ6
Interesting. Is this the card? https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486138195&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=startech+usb+3+pcie
I was having problems with just 2 sensors. I already had 10 devices using my USB controllers. I bought this USB Card and have not had any issues since.
I use this one, and it is recommended as well. Works brilliantly for me. :)
Only certant usb3.0 controllers are supported you may need to invest in the recomended usb3.0 pcie expansion slot prob the one with 4 separate controllers one per slot as it seems none of yours are compatible. I can only remember the inateck one but im sure someone will post the other
I think it may have been this starteck with 4 separate channels
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_nG-AzbD2S290K
> Depending on your computer, you may have to upgrade your motherboard
That's incredibly unlikely. For a start, if you have a CPU fast enough to handle VR then you have at least PCI-E 2 and almost certainly PCI-E 3. Given that, you only need a spare PCI 1x slot and you can add this card for $46 to give you 4 more USB 3 ports and 500MB/s (4Gb/s) of bandwidth with PCI-E 2, double that with PCI-E 3. More than enough.
If you have a PCI 4x slot free then you can get this monster card which also has 4 USB 3 ports on it, except, they are all on individual USB controllers that don't share bandwidth with each other, and a max 2000MB/s (16Gb/s) (again, double for PCI-E 3) of throughput, so you could connect all 3 cameras to just this card and it would function just fine.
I had endless problems with USB. Problem is it's different for everyone, many are fine with just their Motherboard's.
What I can tell you, if you want to run extension cables, the money no object solution (the only thing that go everything working acceptably for me) is the following:
Startech PEXUSB3S44V
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S
Also, found many of the recommended cables hit and miss but Ugreen's have been excellent. Always use the shortest you can.
For 2m I have these on one sensor and one on the Rift itself:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00P0ES0YE
I also have 1m and 3m version on my other two sensors.
To go with the 2m extension to the Rift (only if needed obvious) I used (again Ugreen):
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A30FLE2
Best of luck. Look forward to seeing you in there
I fixed a majority of my issues by installing one of these into a PCIE x16 slot, and plugging all three of my sensors, as well as the rift itself, into it. It's a bit pricey, but it did the trick beautifully.
Still get the sensor jump when turning around. I haven't noticed any significant change to my guardian location or my height, but those still may decide to plague me.
Previously everything was plugged into my motherboard (all 3.0) and worked, more or less, perfectly until the patch. Don't know why it worked before when, honestly, I should have been taxing my USB controller, or why the patch broke it, but the above card has made things great.
Use this $80 Startech card if it isn't outside your budget. Most USB cards have a single controller with multiple ports on a hub. This one has a separate controller/bus for each of the four USB ports. That would allow you to assign them to separate VMs. Also, it great for an Oculus Rift, as the sensors can overwhelm a single USB bus.
Brand new 750 G2 for 128.82 + tax = $144.27 shipped to BC.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00IKDETOW/?tag=pcp0f-20
Heres the build:
CPU: $135 : e5 2670 v1 (x2)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0163AWD96/ref=dp_olp_used?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=used
MOBO: $ 361 : Asus Z9PA-D8
http://www.amazon.com/Asus-Intel-LGA-Motherboard-Z9PA-D8-ASMB6-IKVM/dp/B00BRF7DAC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1461960263&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=z9pa-d8
Ram: $305 : Kingston 16gb ddr3 ecc (x4)
http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=W64GER16K&amp;c=CJ
Case: $94 : Rosewill 4U Rack
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147155&amp;cm_re=4u_case-_-11-147-155-_-Product
CPU Coolers : $46 : Cooler Master Hyper T4 (x2)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BSKY1M4/?tag=pcpapi-20
Storage: $64 : Crucial 240gb ssd
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-BX200-240GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B016JREGAC/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1461961476&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=crucial+ssd
PSU: $99 : EVGA Supernova 750
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Crossfire-Warranty-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B00IKDETOW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1461965314&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=evga+750w
Total: $1104.00
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Crossfire-Warranty-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B00IKDETOW/ref=sr_1_1?s=software&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464573103&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=evga+750+g2 $109 with prime shipping, shipping will be $20 or more(I shipped a psu not too long ago only 1 state away and it was like $18 already)
Can someone tell me how this is better than this psu? Was about to purchase the evga unit but not sure if it’s good compared to this.
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B00IKDETOW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540587529&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=evga+750w+g2&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51VBQdIVkOL&amp;ref=plSrch
750 watts should be fine. This one is pretty good.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKDETOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JVh5Bb88K8XEF
[the card I got, give it a shot](
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00HJZEA2S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
)
Asus seems to have skimped a bit on old style type-a USB ports, sadly.
The expansion cards are so expensive you might as well just get the Code if you need the ports. Otherwise you can use something like these to get even more ports in the back.
I don’t think you have the right one, this one: https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S requires no modifications or third party drivers (use the windows ones!) and is totally rock solid.
4x sensors all on USB3 and perfect room scale tracking.
Your system is fine. In regards to #2 and #3, just pick up a usb 3.0 pci e card. Either inateck https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 or Startech https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=psdc_229185_t3_B00B6ZCNGM. #4, I would suggest you should if play are is beyond 2m by 2m.
I ran VR on a 4690K and a 980 ti. Your computer is basically one step above that. You should be fine. Also, 16gb of RAM is still more than enough for most applications.
The only thing I can think of is your USB controller is being pushed past its limits. I had an MSI z97 motherboard and didn't have issues, but I ran out of USB ports so ended up getting a PCI-e USB card. This is the one I got. I got it because it uses a separate channel for each port preventing USB bandwidth issues. Its pricey but worth it if that is your issue. Which I don't actually know if it is, just a possibly.
You need an additional USB-card.
PEXUSB3S44V will fix all your USB-related issues.
You say you haven't seen anyone solving this issue, well this is how they solved it.
You may also want to remove all overclockings you may have (XMP profiles).
I have read on here somewhere people saying this game is really good, and expensive!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=1CRPZNZDYFYKB&amp;coliid=I2N9RQ39UY4CSS&amp;psc=1
I myself bought two Inateck 4 port cards for 25$ each on Amazon back when they were in stock.
So I had this issue with rift on and off for a year
My end game solution, after wasting tons of money on failed solutions, was buying an 4 independent bus usb 3.0 pcie expansion board (plugged into pcie 16x slot)
I tried a cheap 1 usb bus cards with 4 USB ports and it just is too much strain for 1 bus with all these cameras plus everything else on my PC. Even with that extra bus on that expansion card it’s simply not enough.
what finally worked was the 4 independent 3.0 buses on that card.
I have 3 rift cameras and the headset plugged into the card each one with a dedicated usb bus and none of on my mobo
I’m on mobile at the moment but lemme try to find the link.. if I can’t it was from Startech
Here think this is it https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-SuperSpeed-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S
Make sure you select quad bus or you will be wasting your time.
The last part of this usb disconnect drama for me was a proper usb 3.0 repeater extension cable (on my 3rd and furtherest rear camera). I did a lot of buying and experimenting with these too but this one is the one that finally played nice with rift
https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Extension-Extender-Repeater-Booster/dp/B0179MXKU8/
After this combo I now finally have flawless no random disconnect usage of my rift
Took a damn year to sort all this out.
I hope it helps
Why did you downvote me Heany? The guide you wrote with your amazon link says it's $81 for a total of $200: https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S/
Quit your BS Heany
It is not a case of how many USB 3 ports you have, but what the USB bandwidth load is: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-balancing-bandwidth-on-usb/
You can use a USB 2 for one of the cameras in smaller tracked volumes, but you really need USB 3 for everything for around 9+sq m.
Three cameras will do OK with less than 9sq m but 4 is an advantage when approaching the limits of what volume the Rift can reliably track. From my personal testing around 17.5sq m seems to be about the Rift limit, in ideal circumstances, personally I think reliable stable performance is a good bit below that.
There are some great VR HOTAS experiences, like Elite Dangerous, so if you find you need it then an additional USB card is well worth the investment, just go with something like this, which is known to work: https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S/
I did extensive testing couple years ago for Linux. If you use Windows then I don't know. It all depends on the USB extension card chipset.
Probably will work:
Probably do not work:
Zoom in to the images of the cards and see if they have chips which read "PD720.." to get a Renesas one which I recommend. If card has only one chip it will support only one Kinect 2. There exists a few cards like this one which I have tested to support 4 Kinects.
>Compatibility with macOS is a must, since I would like to do a dual macOS and Windows on this machine.
You might want to buy a used Mac. People who use a hackintosh in work are going to have a bad time. It will work fine for years, then need to be completely re-built when you need to work on final projects.
>Hackintosh build
How about a virtual machine hackintosh? Apple won't like this... - Run MacOS on ANY PC
You will need a USB card for the VM, watch the video carefully: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S/
>want macOS for some general work, and video editing.
A lot of people like the MacOS desktop. It has a lot of good Unix applications. I think you might want to run your video editing on native Windows, unless you are collaborating with MacOS video editors.
>Custom built mechanical keyboard, Logitech G600
Sweet!
PCPartPicker Part List
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i9-9900K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | $471.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Noctua NH-U12A 60.09 CFM CPU Cooler | $99.90 @ Amazon
Motherboard | *ASRock Z390M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $114.99 @ Amazon
Memory | *GeIL EVO POTENZA 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $94.99 @ Newegg
Storage | *Sabrent Rocket 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $118.98 @ Amazon
Storage | *Western Digital Blue 6 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | *ASRock Radeon RX 5700 8 GB CHALLENGER D OC Video Card | $339.99 @ Newegg
Case | *Fractal Design Focus G Mini MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $50.01 @ Walmart
Power Supply | *EVGA GD (2019) 500 W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply | $49.99 @ Amazon
Monitor | *Acer XV272U Pbmiiprzx 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor | $369.99 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Velocifire TKL78 Wired Standard Keyboard | Purchased For $0.00
Mouse | Logitech G600 MMO Gaming Mouse Wired Laser Mouse | Purchased For $0.00
Headphones | *Superlux HD681 Headphones | $34.50 @ Amazon
Custom | Fifine Usb Podcast Condenser Microphone K669 | $27.99 @ Amazon
| Total | $1913.31
| | *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |
The 32 GB of main memory are so you can run two 12 GB VMs and still have 8 GB for the hardware OS.
The Intel chip was chosen as the integrated graphics can be used for the Apple virtual machine, while a Windows virtual machine uses the RX5700. Or you can switch what OS gets the stronger graphics card. Then add a USB card, this one from StarTech is a favorite with VR people: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S/
A good point. If I were buying a PCIe USB card I'd probably get the 4 port Startech.
https://www.amazon.de/STARTECH-COM-SuperSpeed-Express-Schnittstellenkarte-Kan%C3%A4len/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527086391&amp;sr=8-1-spell&amp;keywords=startec+usb
There are cheaper options but the difference isn't that much in the grand scheme of things and I'd rather have the best solution
Independent channels per port so no bandwidth sharing, and supplemental power.
My mobo has 3 independent USB controllers already so it's non issue for me fortunately
Alt USB Card with a dedicated controller per USB port and 20 bucks cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S
The cheap inatech or whatever still does work if you get lucky. Mines been "ok" so far but I'll be swapping to the one I linked if I ever need to expand further.
Can't help with that card in particular, but the older 4 controller Startech cards have been rock solid on my two machines, both with Asus motherboards.
I have a 4-port PCIe card with 4 dedicated 5Gbps channels specifically because I was previously using the recommended Inatek card and it was an utter nightmare.
Everything but the headset itself is plugged into the card, as I've found that's the best possible configuration. It's still finicky, but much, much better than it was. (I was in BSOD hell /w the Inatek card) I'm convinced that there is no truly "perfect and stable" way to set up 3+ sensors, (from the perspective of the Oculus setup tool, that is) though, as I have tried many configurations and they're all a little wacky during setup even though they work well during gameplay.
It doesn't seem to be an issue with USB, it's just that the three cameras have trouble seeing my Touch controller for the entire duration of the trigger-hold simultaneously. It's extremely annoying, but it seems pretty clear that it's just a flaw in the setup process because the whole system works like a dream once I get it configured.
I'm open to suggestions if it means not having to hold my touch controller behind my head like an dumbass 20 times in a row every time I want to adjust my sensor positions though.
You can get external hubs or internal PCIe adapters depending on what you need.
If you just need ports for low bandwidth accessories, external ports/hubs will work, or a simple internal expansion (cheap).
If you need more ports AND more channels, you'll need something more expensive. Check this model - it comes in various sizes and various ports/channels.
You using an extension cable? The Inatek card is not really recommended anymore, more reports of issues than solutions.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
That is the best card that you can get. Been using it for about 4-5 months now and not a single disconnect or any issue with it at all.
I have this one.
4 Port PCI Express (PCIe) SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Card Adapter w/ 4 Dedicated 5Gbps Channels - UASP - SATA / LP4 Power
I always suggest viewing your PSU as an insurance policy...a PSU can easily fry a system if you aren't careful and I have seen it more than once where someone spends a ton of money on a top tier system and goes cheap on PSU just to have it brick their system. I would suggest getting a new one unless you would rather potentially spend the money on a completely new system.
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B00IKDETOW/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485294185&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=750w+power+supply&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A2888290011
something like that will work probably. It is gold certified and cheap enough and you get the same 750W you have now.
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B00IKDETOW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484246814&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=evga+g2
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0750-X1/dp/B005BE058W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484246826&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=evga+g3
the $100 one is great but feel free to get the newer one if you want
For less messy amazon links you can extract the part after "/dp/" in
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B00IKDETOW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484246814&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=evga+g2
and make it:
https://amzn.com/B00IKDETOW
Or via smile link:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00IKDETOW
BEEP BOP
Plz send any recommendations via PM
I'm partial to the EVGA PSU's, suggest a 750w or higher, here is an example through [Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B00IKDETOW) - Not a referral link, you can google prices across the web, this is only one example of what I use on my dual PSU setup.
All looks good, I would suggest getting this power supply instead
Newegg link
Amazon link
simply because it has a proven track record for being reliable (291 reviews on newegg at 5 star average and tons of amazon reviews). Another thing would be to wait on the GTX 960 until the benchmarks come out on the Radeon RX 480 because it is the same price and the 480 could perform better.
I just upgraded from a gtx 660 to a gtx 1070, and now my pc randomly restarts after gaming just a few minutes. I looked it up and I think it might be because my power supply is not strong enough or it is pretty much dead-- it is at least 4 years old like the rest of my pc and only has a 3 year warranty. I was wondering how big of a power supply I should get to run my build considering my cpu is overclocked to 4.8 ghz and I might overclock the 1070 a bit more than the factory oc. I am looking at the EVGA SuperNova G2 750 or 650.
Here is my current build. (I also have a M.2 ssd with an adapter and some headphones powered by the pc not listed.)
Thanks guys!
You would need a 750w psu for GTX 1080 SLI. The EVGA 750G2 would be my choice. I would also go with this motherboard.
You are correct in that the AMD cards require more power. You would likely need at least 850w for Crossfire (with the current TDP).
Something like this.
PSUs are rated at bronze, silver, gold, plat, or something like that
edit: If you are using one GPU, you can pick a 550W or 650W depending on which deal is better
you will need a motherboard that supports m.2 or you could save a couple of dollars and just get a 2.5" SSD.
https://www.amazon.ca/Samsung-Internal-Solid-2-5-Inch-Vertical/dp/B00LMXBOP4/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467982330&amp;sr=8-23&amp;keywords=intel+ssd
I'd also recommend getting a fully modular power supply. Then you won't have to try to hid the cables you don't need in your case.
https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Certified-ATX12V-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B00IKDETOW/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467982378&amp;sr=1-2
Edit: didn't see the motherboard there. you'll want a z170 motherboard if you plan to overclock. If you don't plan to overclock then that cooler is way overkill and there are much cheaper options on the market. Also I have that cooler and I have to replace the NZXT fans on it every 6 months. Just a head's up but it has a really long warranty.
Well, if you want a recommendation, I'd say this one. It's a bit on the pricey side, but it's also extremely good quality, and should last you for quite some time.
But really, anything 550W+ with at least one 8-Pin PCIe power connector should work fine.
Hello! I have an EVGA supernova GOLD 750watt modular I can sell for $85 plus shipping. Should be the last PSU you'll ever need 😀
EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G2, 80+ GOLD 750W, Fully Modular, EVGA ECO Mode, 10 Year Warranty, Includes FREE Power On Self Tester Power Supply 220-G2-0750-XR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKDETOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YnGJDbM3XYRBB
Add $20 to your price point for an 80+ Gold EVGA 750w PSU, fully modular, manufactured by seasonic and with a 10 year warranty
5820K is the as the the 5930K but with slightly lower clock speed and the 5930K has 40 PCIE lanes vs the 5820Ks 28 PCIE lanes so it only matters with quad SLI because the 5820K doesn't support quad SLI but it supports 3-way SLI.
Also it is $200 cheaper don't know what the is in pounds but you get the point.
Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rctaLgK5stA
Edit:
You should look into the EVGA SuperNOVA G2, they are really good quality
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-80PLUS-Certified-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B00IKDETOW
Also maybe a multicore Xeon is better at rendering video but also more expensive
No. Never cheap out on a PSU. If a hard graphics card fails, you loose a graphics card, if a cpu fails, you loose a cpu. If a PSU fails you will potentially be destroying all of the components in your system.
Try this one: http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Builder-Series-Bronze-Certified/dp/B008RJZQSW/ . The Corsair Power Supplies are very popular within the build market and this one is 80+ bronze certified meaning it has been through extensive testing and will perform as expected.
This one also seems to be reliable: http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-80PLUS-Certified-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B00IKDETOW/
The approach I'm taking on my Pi 3-based "field computer" project is to use a buck converter to supply constant 5V to a 20000mah battery pack, in turn being fed by a cheapo 12V 30A switching PSU. That battery pack can pump out more than enough current for my purposes, but for higher amperage loads you could simply inject USB power directly from the buck converter rails.
Total cost of approximately $30 is competitive with a quality 5V 10A AC adapter. The benefit with this setup over an adapter is that by skipping the PSU stage and feeding straight off the buck converter, I can run off of essentially any common DC source, including car and motorcycle batteries. Of course, if the input voltage isn't 12V, you'll have to dial it in with the buck converter, but that's a small price for the ability to tap into all those 18V power tool batteries and even 36V golf carts & wheelchairs.
Note that there are a BUNCH of those "DROK" brand converters on Amazon. Some are boost only, some buck only, others have both stages on the same board for greatly increased flexibility at the cost of some conversion efficiency. Watch the voltage and amperage specs, assume that any stated thresholds are optimistic, and plan to do thermal testing and add additional cooling if needed for your application. If you can find them, and they are getting hard to find, the MingHe D3806 is pretty much the best, and is actually the one I'm using.
Note also to take care with wire resistance! Most especially, be mindful not to end up with a design that's got all 6 amps flowing over some generic USB cable with 28 gauge 5v strands.
I bought this for my makerfarm i3 8"
Amazon link, 12V 30A -> 360W
So how about you figure out what voltage the wallwarts output and then buy a single larger DC power supply to plug all of them into?
Something like this
Which would require cutting wires or
easier option no cutting
Get one of these and save yourself a lot of heartaches :
http://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458795481&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=12v+power+supply
Just a cheap one from Amazon. Someone did a video about how much power the various parts of the A8 pulled, I think the bed was 11watts, the hot end 4watts and one watt per stepper. And that the stock psu struggled to put out 20 watts. So the one I got was 30 watts and both the bed and hot end heat up faster. I went ahead and set up dual mosfets, because why not? They cost 10 bucks for 2 and potentially divert 15 watts from passing through the notoriously prone to melting motherboard.
eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_em_taa_Bs8uCbH65ZK0T
How are you gearing down the motor that you linked? At 4500rpm its going to have very little torque. I'd go for something like this paired with something like this.
I have everything daisy chained together from a 12v power supply.
3528 2 Pin LED Strip Jumper Connector... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0739V9DRR?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Striveday™68pcs 2p Spring Connector... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KT91OEW?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Regular red/black wire.
eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Grey Wire Connector Pack, Bag of 100... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L0GN4YQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Should get you in the right direction.
8" coaxial x4 $52 shipped
12" sub $30 shipped
Bluetooth head unit $37 shipped
sub amp $50 shipped
PSU $20
box and miscellaneous puts you over budget a tad. But powering the coaxials with the headunit, efficient sub... should sound good and get loud.
Probably not, get this power supply https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=eTopxizu+12v+30a+Dc&amp;qid=1555679452&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3 and also get a v6 hotend, trianglelab sells near identical ones for $15, the stock heatbreak has a tendency to fall out
If it's useful, I too just got started, and built a similar drone. When it came to charging, I had to read a ton of stuff. Here's what I did (all non-referral Amazon links. you may find cheaper on banggood if you want to wait forever):
ISDT Charger
12v Power Supply
Balance Charger
To connect these up, it may be useful to have some extra XT60 plugs since the power supply won't have XT60, and neither does the balance charger.
With these optional parts, I was able to make a nice looking (and more safe) charger from the power supply, along with a 3d print available here
Voltmeter
Power plug
I found this to be a pretty fun project, and wasn't as expensive as some options I saw on HobbyKing or everywhere else. To be fair, it wasn't the cheapest option either.
Wow, you just solved it and I am an idiot. I ordered 2 Power Supplies, one was supposed to be this 12V 360W PSU for the RAMPS/etc. and the other is this 24V 500W PSU exclusively for the Heated Bed.
I could have sworn I double checked but I just looked and it seems I have 2 24V PSUs. Was looking for the model number on the one connected to the RAMPS and it says s-360-24 on the side sigh.
Well that explains why it fried it. Time to return that for the correct PSU.
I noticed my heated bed stopped working after a >24h print a few days ago. Inspecting the bed-side wires, Everything looked alright, but when I opened up the casing (It's a Robo R1+), I found that one wire on the power supply melted down.
My options are to either replace the whole supply, OR to simply replace the wire. For reference, It's a S-360-12
. I'm pretty split on which one to go with, as they've got essentially the same amount of work to them.
I do find it interesting, however, that the burnout only caused the heated bed to stop functioning, as the power is delivered (and distributed by) the ramps board. I would have expected more than one thing to give out.
Thank you for the reply. I was looking at buying this on amazon, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oTZiybZ0PN7ZE, do you think that'll be a good one?
I bought an i3x at the beginning of June. Some thoughts are below. The tl;dr: Not the prettiest parts, and a subpar hotend, but I wanted an aluminum frame (humidity in my state is horrid) and knew I was buying a long-term project anyways. Overall, I'm happy with my purchase. Feel free to PM me if you have specific questions or whatever.
Things I want to improve include:
I'm on my phone so I can't really link it, but I posted a while back about a cheap power supply. It's the one I use daily and works great. For $23 I don't see how you could beat it.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D7CWSCG
Thank you for the input! And thank you very much for offering to send me that MOSFET, but I actually just ordered the same one! Ha. I ordered a new PSU ( think this one is ok? ) Do you have any links or guides you recommend for the hotbed upgrades?
Edit: I wasn't aware of the fire hazards until I got this thing put together, is it really that bad? After I setup the MOSFET is it safe?
I was going to do the same, but got these. Glad I went with the standard supply, it mounts to the i3V frame as well. You can skip the cord if you have one already, just cut the one end off.
$22.14 12v20a
Cord
http://www.pc-specs.com/mobo/HP/HP_IPISB-CH2_%28Chicago%29/1627/Compatible_GPUs
https://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Desktop-Hardware-and-Upgrade-Questions/Please-help-Compatible-graphics-cards-for-HP-Pavilion-HPE-h8/td-p/5935313
Yup your right.
Without knowing your CPU/memory and or financial budget it is hard to say. But you probably want something off this list.
https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/?compatible_with=ttQRsY#sort=a8&amp;s=14
Personally I would just sell the whole HP desktop on Ebay as some old person will probably buy it for a couple three hundred. Then you can just add that money to the ~$100 you would have spend on a mobo. So you are at about $300-400...add a couple cnotes and you should be able to build a decent rig around that 1050.
| part | price |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|------|
| mobo | $50 |
| cpu | $120 |
| ram | $85 |
| disk | $140 |
| ps | $40 |
| case | $40 |
| Total | $475 |
or go get a pcmasterrace build kabylake builds (I think the mobo prices are still too high)
(edit: to fix link)
Go in the middle and get the EVGA 500b or I guess the 600b cause it's only like a dollar more. But I wouldn't cheap out and get the white one, especially in a gaming build.
Also, the v300 is a pretty bad SSD. Some good budget ones are a-data sp550, pny cs1311, ocz trion 150, and most Sandisk models.
Everything is looking fine dude except the power supply. Stay away from the brand Thermaltake.
Try to get something like this>
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Warranty-Tester-100-B1-0500-KR/dp/B00DZ6R9GE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473733025&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=evga+500w
If you have any questions people ask away. :)
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Supply-Warranty-100-B1-0500-KR/dp/B00DZ6R9GE/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491690556&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=EVGA+500B
My friend built his g4560 rig in this case with this psu. Quiet, does a good job and has a 80+ bronze rating. That's my recommendation. The PSU i'm using in MY rig though, Old, sketchy and somehow still powering a 5850 in 2017. I need an upgrade haha
So looking at your other post, and the info you provided, I have a couple comments:
but personally I would advise (if you have some extra money) jumping up to the 80+ gold PSU (https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Supernova-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0550-Y1/dp/B01LWTS2UL) for ~$20 more.
From what I know, EVGA is a trustworthy company, and their G3 power supplies are a good choice.
The recommended PSU is 300 watts I believe, 250 may be cutting it a bit close, it will probably work but isn't worth possibly damaging your $200 video card. I would upgrade the power supply. EVGA has a good 500 watt 80+ bronze for under $50.
I would also advise to go with Skylake, a 6400 or 6500 would best suit this build, as opposed to Haswell, due to the fact that the LGA1151 socket is to be used for Cannonlake and Kaby Lake. If you want to, therefore, upgrade down the line, you won't need to replace the motherboard and the RAM. I assume you used PCPartPicker, which will automatically filter incompatible parts, so there are no worries there. I'll work on a build and post it here shortly!
> EVGA 500B
This one?
that power supply looks a little sketchy. I'd spend another $15 and get something bronze certified or better: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Supply-Warranty-100-B1-0500-KR/dp/B00DZ6R9GE/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493320309&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=evga&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6906984011
Most Corsair or EVGA brand PSUs of sufficient wattage will suffice. If you're brand brand new to PCs and don't know what to get, get the [EVGA 500B1] (https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Supply-Warranty-100-B1-0500-KR/dp/B00DZ6R9GE). It'll provide more than enough headroom for a mid or low end computer. If you're going for dual graphics cards or other extras, just buy a model with slightly higher wattage.
The rating (bronze, gold, titanium etc) refers to the power and overall efficiency of the PSU. Don't pay too much attention to it unless you really want to.
Cool, that's the best one to have.
You can put a standard ATX size power supply in there if you needed. Something like an EVGA 500B would be good and won't cost too much.
CDN$ 190.70 -GTX 1050 Ti
CDN$ 64.99 - EVGA 500B
The GTX 1050 Ti only needs a 300W PSU. It may already have that. I've seen people run it even off of something like a 240-260W PSU and be ok. May not need to upgrade the PSU.
This PSU is fine but this might suit it a bit better. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DZ6R9GE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gefIzbSZPV6R8
And I would look into getting 4x2 Ram sticks rather then 1 stick, as there's 4 ram slots, and dual channel ram usually runs better.
You may have made a booboo not buying the right graphics card for your PSU. Might need to upgrade your PSU. Got a few bucks?
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Supply-Warranty-100-B1-0500-KR/dp/B00DZ6R9GE any of that line will work for your system, you goofed not checking your psu had what was needed first though :)
If price isn't a big issue on also getting a PSU, you can go a bit higher and look at other PSU's, but the 1060 doesn't take much power, so even the 450B version of that EVGA power supply should be fine.
50 pounds won't buy you a PSU good enough for a high-end gaming rig. Although... I guess this one should do the job.
There's also EVGA 500B if you desperately need something now and 50 is literally max of what you can give.
That's a beautiful build ;) Also, the motherboard is a micro atx so try and find a micro atx case and power supply. I know that evga has some power supplies that are micro atx. I think your atx case will support the micro atx, but generally atx cases are more expensive and it'll be a lot of space in your computer. It's more of a personal preference, but it could save you some money and make your computer more compact. I suggest this case and this power supply
found a Bronze+ PSU, EVGA 500 B1, 80+ BRONZE 500W Power Supply, 3 Year Warranty, Includes FREE Power On Self Tester 100-B1-0500-KR found here
will this PSU be able to supply a 480 8gb and an i3 6100? I will probably upgrade the 6100 to a 6500 , its for my little brother. I also have a 750w Bronze something EVGA psu if need be, I just dont wanna go through all that hassle
Yes and no. You can get a PCIe USB 3.0 hub, which is about as close to swapping them out. If you had the knowledge (and your motherboard has a USB 3.0 header), you could swap out the ports, but if you have to ask if it's possible, you probably don't have the skills to do so.
Here is an example of one there are many like it
http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1407361739&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=usb+3+card+pci+express
Before worrying about all that, I would try a pci-e usb 3.0 expansion card if you're having issues with the USB3 built in hardware on your motherboard. IMHO the FX-8300 would be fine still as long as you're doing your encoding via a capture card, or via something like NVENC. I don't know that I would trust it with software encoding while gaming. Benchmark-wise, multi-core on the FX-8300 is pretty similar to an i5 4570, which is still pretty capable for the most part.
Something like this may work as long as you have an empty pci-e slot. https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA/
Caveats: 1) No real hardware upgrade, which can be both a good and bad thing. 2) System still not technically supported by Elgato.
Other notes: The latest "high-end" AMD CPUs to use DDR3 were the FX series I believe, and I currently use an FX-8300 in my home fileserver, and an i5 4590 in my gaming PC. The latest generation of Intel that used DDR3 was the 5th gen (i3,i5,i7 5xxx), which are fairly rare in desktop form, the latest generation mainstream was the 4th gen, which is really very similar to the 8-core FX series performance-wise, with the i5/i7 of that generation having the slight (in the case of i5) to slightly greater (in the case of i7) edge over the FX 8-cores.
Realistically you're probably looking into new ram/cpu/motherboard if you chose to upgrade to get any reasonable performance boost, everything else would likely be compatible, as expansion cards like graphics cards, other things like power supplies and hard drives and dvd drives, haven't really changed in regards to how they connect to the motherboard.
Front panel hub, rear panel bracket, or expansion cards.
USB issue. Your USB ports are not strong enough. You will need to buy this that goes inside your pc or this that plugs into a usb 3.0 port
I was in the same boat as you. Tried everything and the only solution left was the PCIe method. I realize I had that usb 3.0 hub and figured, "Why not?" Amazingly, it works and keeps working. 3 months now and no video issues. Though, my sound does go off once in a while but its easy to fix by just going into sound manager, disabling the rift sound, and then reenabaling it.
i was having a similar issue but if i were you i would think about just getting this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA/ reason being at least you know you are sorted day one.. nobody wants to get their rift open it up have problems and have to wait another 6 to 10 days for some other delivery and you could just leave these 4 ports just for your rift and have many more usb ports for future use... besides the price is worth insuring you wont be screwed when the guy delivers your rift some morning.. good luck and happy rifting pal :)
It looks like it has an open PCIE slot x1 which would allow this card to be used: http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA
edit: And a pic of the motherboard
When you say
>Oculus Controller
Do you mean the Oculus Touch controllers? Because if so, they don't need USB at all. The breakdown goes:
At launch, it only needs 2x USB 3.0 ports and 1x USB 2.0 port. Later this year, you would need another USB 3.0 port for the second camera sensor but then you wouldn't need the USB 2.0 port for the xbox controller since you would be using Touch at that point.
So at most, 3 ports (2x 3.0 & 1x 2.0 / 3x 3.0)
But yes, at the least you would need 3 ports to play, which some people don't have the luxury of having. In that case, there are options for PCI-E expansions, such as this one that offer you plenty of ports for your needs.
You need to get a PCIE card that is small enough for your smaller slots and then just connect the Rift directly to your motherboard.
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B00FPIMICA/
Use this one for your things like keyboard, mouse etc., and directly connect the rift to the mobo. Your motherboard isn't going to work in this configuration according to your manual.
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500393928&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Inateck+Superspeed+7+Ports+PCI-E+to+USB+3.0+Expansion+Card
Inateck (or anything else with a FrescoLogic 1100 chipset, but the Inateck is the most readily available) is the Oculus recommended PCIe card for adding USB 3 ports. You can buy them on amazon. They have a few different variants. Inateck also sell some cards using the NEC D720201 chipset. Don't get those. Any of their cards with model numbers beginning with KTU3FR are good. If you want the one with the most usb ports, you want the KTU3FR-502I or KTU3FR-502U. The 5O2I is 5 usb ports on the back with a usb header like on your motherboard to connect 2 more to a case. The 502U has 5 usb ports on the back and 2 usb ports on the inside which I guess you could route the cables out of your case if it has cable holes.
I know people have mentioned what extension cables they have used successfully on this reddit, but it doesn't look like it has been documented on this reddit's wiki. I think it has been mentioned it is pretty hit or miss even when you buy ones other people have used successfully.
Could be. Reinstall your GPU drivers and make sure your USB drivers are up to date.
If you do have USB problems you can add a PCIe USB card but that's assuming that there is nothing wrong with the headset.
> a single PCI-E v2 lane only has enough bandwidth for one USB3 port, and a PCI-E v3 lane only has enough for 2
Right. I can only guess the Oculus devices won't all be equally bandwidth hungry. I'd expect the headset to be the biggest hog, and the 3d Positional Tracker and Oculus Touch somewhere behind (uneducated guess).
I plan on buying the card they recommend since I only have 2 USB3 ports on my mobo, and just to be safe dedicate 2 of the 7 ports for Oculus (PCI-E v3 lane), leaving the other ones unused.
Inateck PCI-E to USB 3.0 5-Port PCI Express Card and 15-Pin Power Connector, Mini PCI-E USB 3.0 Hub Controller Adapter, with Internal USB 3.0 20-PIN C https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_EWhJf1l5AngGk
That's what I'm using and it's working great
You can get PCIe internal USB cards. Some of them have internal headers as well as external ports. Did a quick search and found this option that might work.
Hey, just to let you know, I think this is a problem with the ASUS Z710 series, as I have gone down the same road as you, and someone else mentioned also having the same problems with a Z710 series board. I know it isn't the Vive because it works with no issue on another box in the exact same room and set up. I'm thinking there is something with their USB and talking to the Link Box, and I'm hoping I can find something in the BIOS to tweak. I'd say hold onto it, and if you are really at the end of your rope, buy a different MB. I'll let you know if I figure anything out. EDIT: Also try uninstalling the Asus AI Suite if you have it installed, and Corsair Link...others said this helped, though it did not for me.
EDIT: Looks like a common solution is to get a USB PCIe card which uses a different USB host controller, as the ASMedia USB host controller on the asus Z170 boards is crap, and buggy. This is the recommended one.
I'm actually using a USB 3.0 PCIe card already, have been since i got my WMR. This is it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMICA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1
During trouble shooting i'll often try using my mobos 3.0 port which doesn't change anything.
I haven't tried reinstalling the usb drivers and I'm honestley confused by it. Not sure what a controller is, am i reinstalling the driver for my USB 3.0 PCIe expansion card? Or for the HMD?
OP and all affected by this: I also ran into this after the latest update. It clearly introduced some bugs. That said, here is everything I did, and I'm finally playing Beat Saber on my Rift with 0 (read again, 0) lag. (That said, there is certainly still a bug where if a box is hit the wrong direction, or with the wrong saber color, sometimes the controller does not vibrate)
I am listing below WHAT WORKED, and leaving out all the things I tried that didn't work..it's an exhausting list..cables, reseating the rift headset jack under the face mask..etc. This did not help me. Rift worked great in every other game.
Doing all of this, the noteworthy ones being Windows 10 Night Light being turned off, the USB add-in card/dedicated channel for the Rift headset USB, and the Oculus Tray Tool, my Beat Saber now runs flawlessly!! I moved up from Hard to Expert (and even Expert with Fast Song turned on) overnight purely as a result of this game running like it should now. I can actually hit what I see, and the game registers it.
&#x200B;
Computer Setup:
My specs are overkill for VR and Rift (see: Robo Recall) worked fine with my MSI Nvidia 970 GPU too, but Beat Saber still lagged (after the latest update) until I made all the changes above. Beat Saber clearly has some bugs/compatibility problems to work out, and it seems the devs have more important things to do than fix these given how long it is between updates being released for PC. We're a forgotten lot. :( Perhaps the modding community will find a way to patch the game to actually fix these bugs.
&#x200B;
I do hope that my tips help even one person out there also experiencing this issue. This game is what VR was for! If anybody has more tips please please please share them! Everybody should be able to enjoy this game as it was supposed to be!
&#x200B;
edit: Corrected CPU specs in my Computer Setup
Pending you have an open PCI-E slot, there are USB 3.0 expansion cards that are compatible with the Rift for cheap. I got this one for ~$30.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMICA
Was having the same issues as many; tracking going wonky, unable to detect USB during setup, etc. Finally fixed mine!
This is the USB 3.0 card I'm using:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMICA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I plugged the Rift S into the far right port (looking at the back of the PC). I moved my other USB peripherals to other ports.
I don't know if this was pure luck, but I had been fighting this for 2 days straight. I hope this helps someone else.
&#x200B;
*Edit*: I got a few hours of sleep last night to think about this some more. On the Rift CV1, each sensor was a separate USB connection. But on the Rift S, all 5 sensors (the cameras) are going thru a single USB 3.0 connection, and I'm guessing this requires a fair bit more of bandwidth.
I ended up having to buy a usb 3.0 pcie card as the headset wouldn't work at all on the ASMedia 0.96 drivers.
I got one and had absolutely no luck with it so I returned it. I will admit that I did love the charging IQ ports. This was a couple months ago though. I think I saw somewhere that they had updated their drivers and work now but I'm not 100%. I went with this though: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMICA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
edit: for sake of a timeline, my return history on Amazon shows I returned my Anker hub July 29
Check out the ASUS N550JK-DS71T, which has a really nice IPS 15.6" 1920x1080 touchscreen, i7 quad core processor, 8GB ram, 1TB HDD, dedicated GTX 850M GPU and a replaceable/upgradeable ram. You could even buy an extra stick of RAM and a Samsung 840 EVO, put them in yourselves and still be under budget.
I run it on one of these QOTOM-Q190G4-S01 mini pc J1900 Quad core 4 LAN with Crucial 8GB DDR3L SODIMM and Transcend 64GB mSATA Drive. I used to use a Soekris net6501-70 but they have a bad reputation of dying suddenly (and no mfg. support) so I took it out as primary and have it as a backup just in case.
I just recently switch to a quad core model on amazon total cost was $315. It was a barebones system and you had to get the ram and hdd for it. Works fine, my speeds have never been stable but I can atleast spike to 925MB/s (it averages 750 depending on where I test it). I feel my limitation is the provider not the hardware as others have stated it is fine for gigabit.
Here is the hw i got:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MEGSMRZ/
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006YG8X9Y/
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K67E5DA/
For £350 I have to recommend:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Motherboard | MSI H81M-P33 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | £30.97 @ Scan.co.uk
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £35.94 @ Aria PC
Case | Zalman ZM-T3 MicroATX Mini Tower Case | £19.94 @ CCL Computers
Power Supply | EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | £35.40 @ Amazon UK
Other| Sapphire AMD R9 280 Graphics Card (3GB, DDR5) | £129.90 @ Amazon
Other| Crucial 8GB DDR3 1600 MT/s CL11 SODIMM 204 Pin 1.35V/1.5V Memory Module | £51.09 @ Amazon
Other| Intel Pentium Dual Core G3258 | £47.98 @ Dabs
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | £351.22
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-13 17:46 BST+0100 |
The G3258 + H81 is such good value. Out of the box it'll do well but what makes this amazing is when you overclock it. https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=182658.0 . Also the 280 will run every game at 1080p on Ultra settings. Fantastic card for the price.
For £450,
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4440 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor | £133.14 @ Aria PC
Motherboard | Asus H81M-PLUS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | £40.57 @ Scan.co.uk
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £35.94 @ Aria PC
Case | Xigmatek Recon ATX Mid Tower Case | £27.94 @ Amazon UK
Power Supply | EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | £35.93 @ CCL Computers
Other| Sapphire AMD R9 280 Graphics Card (3GB, DDR5) | £129.90 @ Amazon
Other| Crucial 8GB DDR3 1600 MT/s CL11 SODIMM 204 Pin 1.35V/1.5V Memory Module | £51.09 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | £454.51
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-16 12:02 BST+0100 |
The extra £100 has gone into getting an i5. This will perform better in intensive CPU tasks but in gaming there will only be a few fps difference. I can't really recommend it over the £350 build because you already have your laptop for work.
All in all I have to recommend the £350 build and saving some money for an SSD
I have 12gb in mine, amazon bud. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006YG8X9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Played gta 5 overclocked and completely maxed out and it handled it while hanging around 50fps which is honestly good enough for me for only paying 224. The graphics card is extemely overclockable too
I know the picture says 14.9GB cached, once i took the screen shot it dropped from 15 to 14.9
the 2 8GB's dimms were pretty easy to install no disassembly required, just patience.
this is the ram used:
Crucial 8GB Single DDR3L 1600 MT/s (PC3L-12800) SODIMM 204-Pin Memory - CT102464BF160B
not sure how to show if the device is actually utilizing all 16GB or just sees it
Here's another option from Crucial memory that will work for you: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006YG8X9Y/ - 8GB for $62
Ubiquiti has free software for an NVR.
Here is the hardware I used.
Intel NUC: Model Nuc5ppyh
(There may be better ones out now, but this one works just great)
Memory: Crucial 8GB Single DDR3L
Hard Drive: Seagate 2TB Laptop HDD SATA
OS: UBUNTU 14.04 (DO NOT USE version 16, I don’t think it is supported yet, that may have changed)
Direct Amazon Links to the same hardware I got:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B006YG8X9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPVQHDU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C4W2P18/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Keep in mind, the hardware has improved a bit since I bought my stuff, so you can get better prices or faster hardware.
I've spliced multiple accessories including led lighting into the 12v terminals of the cr-10x without any issue. Currently I'm printing with my bed at 65 degrees and print head at 210. I'm in the US on 120v drawing ~(2.6 after heating -3.15 amps during heating)/~220 watts. You can easily power multiple devices off the 12v terminals without any issue.
The readings above include includes:
12v Noctua Fan - https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M
12v Proximity Sensor (ABL) - https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-LJC18A3-B-Z-1-10mm-Capacitance-Proximity/dp/B0756XDQM4
5v Lighting - Partial strip - https://www.amazon.com/Lighting-Control-Findyouled-Backlight-Monitors/dp/B01M28RKH5
I'm using a mix between Marlin 1.1.8 and the custom firmware provided by www.th3dstudio.com. (If your considering doing ABL and your not super familiar with electronics I highly recommend th3dstudio.com It's important to support the engineers/developers that bring the amazing improvements in 3d printing to the masses)
I usually use octoprint with pi3 or pi zero but for these readings I had nothing plugged into the micro usb port.
If you have any questions or need some more information about how I do my wiring I would be happy to help!
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510460290&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=noctua+40mm
best little 40mm fans I've experienced.
I'm pretty new to this too, I bought my Ender 3 Pro around the same time as you. Quiet printing is pretty high on my list as well as being able to print high-temp exotic filaments in the long term while maintaining reliability.
First upgrades I purchased were stiffer bed springs so I would be less likely to throw the bed out of level while removing prints or working around the printer and Capricorn XS tube since it has a more consistent internal diameter, fits closer to the filament, and can work with slightly higher temps. I also picked up a pack of bowden couplers recently as I noticed the end nearest the extruder is sliding past the coupler jaws on de/retraction; don't worry about that unless it's an issue for you. That's about $30 alone since I don't have a supply shop locally and have to order those parts in bulk. I had a Pi 3B laying around unused and flashed Octoprint onto it. Highly recommended. I have a replacement Noctua hotend fan, buck converters, and 5015 blower on order to quiet the fan noise; about $32. Just replaced the Meanwell psu fan with a 60x25mm Noctua I had lying around (Note: there may be better options in the 92-120mm range to replace part of the PSU housing, but that's what I had laying around). Next upgrade coming is the SKR Mini E3 with TMC 2209 drivers ($28) to eliminate almost all of the stepper noise. Also looking into a replacement for the control board fan and some vibration isolating feet for the frame. As far as higher temp printing I haven't made a lot of progress aside from buying a titanium all-metal heat brake ($11) winch I have yet to install or inspect, and looking into enclosure and electronics relocation avenues.
Either way the mods I purchased came in at around $100 US which should quiet the printer and help with reliability. Also looking into picking up a good M3-M4 bolt kit if any exist in the US.
Here are some links to the things I picked up and will, which may be helpful if you're in the US. Mostly from Amazon.
Type | Name | Link | Price
---|---|----|----
Reliability | 8mm x 20mm yellow springs | Link | $6.98
Reliability | Capricorn XS Tubing | Link | $11.49
Reliability | PC4-M6 / PC4-M10 Pneumatic Bowden Fittings | Link | $11.99
Silence | Noctua 40mm x 10mm 3-pin fan | Link | $13.95
Silence/Various | LM2596 Adjustable Buck Converters | Link | $10.95
Silence | 24v 5015 Radial Ball Bearing Fans | Link | $7.19
Silence/Various | SKR Mini E3 w/ TMC 2209 drivers | Link | $28.81
High Temp | Titanium All-Metal Heat Brake | Link | $11.52
TOTAL: $102.88 US + Tax
Parts already purchased/ bought with printer
Type | Name | Link | Price
---|---|----|----
Reliability/High Temp | OEM Ender 3 Glass Bed | Link | $20
Reliability | Feeler Guage Set | Link | $5
Reliability | 608zz Bearings, using with this(My Remix), this, and this, though I like this design a bit better | Link | $5.98
QoL Improvement | Raspberry Pi 3B w/ Octoprint | Link | $34.46
Silence | Noctua 60mm x 25mm 3-pin fan, goes with this mod | Link | $14.95
TOTAL: $80.39 US + Tax
Future planned upgrades
I recommend replacing it with this fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0LMFAbPDG8Y0G
I replaced all my fans on my wanhao with theses way quieter and way more airflow.
That fan shroud is for a 40mm fan, the stock fan isn't 40mm. This is the fan I just ordered for that exact shroud Noctua A-Series Cooling Fan Blades with AAO Frame, SSO2 Bearing (NF-A4x10 FLX) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_yFYjzbKHXWEGP
I had issues with both the circulation fans in my Control boxmaking noise so i replace all of my fans. My psu was new so it was quiet to begin with.
Here are the fans i got. The noctua are higher than your range but they are high quality.
Hotend Fan 40x10mm
Control Box Back Fan 40x20mm
Mother Board Fan 50x10mm
Might be able to find these fans cheaper on other websites but they are the right sizes.
Noctua A-Series Cooling Fan Blades with AAO Frame, SSO2 Bearing (NF-A4x10 FLX) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_57..BbJP6S3M5
I did this upgrade. It really cuts down on the fan noise.
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/original-prusa-i3-mk2-40x40x10mm-fan-adapter-25828
OR http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2076234
With this fan: https://smile.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M
Took mine off months ago. Not really needed. https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M
Are the original fans half the width? they might only be 10mm deep fans which would be 4x10
Similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=pd_day0_hl_147_1/134-3486845-7333707?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B009NQLT0M&pd_rd_r=4f650a11-65f7-11e9-a637-6b060766031a&pd_rd_w=dKWyl&pd_rd_wg=nBDLD&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=HDY8R03XSW8QC0MZSGHE&psc=1&refRID=HDY8R03XSW8QC0MZSGHE
Fuck yes. You've inspired me.
I'm looking at these noctuas because they are silent and I'm thinking I'll have to go with a battery option. I don't think it will bother me that much. I'm wondering if getting a rechargable double a solution or just getting a vaporizer battery would work.
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M
No problem, glad I could help!
The mount fits a 40x40x10mm fan. I'm using [this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_RCdPAbVHRTZVE) Noctua fan with great results!
50C on idle doesn't sound right. My 2200G is about 30C with stock cooler (about 1500rpm though). I would try to reapply paste.
PSU switch look like 10 minutes. And that mostly because it's hard to remove motherboard with everything attached.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B009NQLT0M/
Really, any 40mm fan will do. But here's:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Z6S6QQ/
I used the NF-A4x10FLX fan.
Very quiet. The ServeTheHome thread linked above has two other types of fans used. They are fairly quiet too. I used some of those on the PSUs in the switch and then also disconnected one of the supplies as I don't need both running at once.
> I haven't found a quiet, well-performing 40mm fan
I use this 40mm Noctua on my extruder's heat sink. It is so silent that I thought it was dead the first time I turned the printer back on. I had to visually check it spinning and feel the airflow before I could believe it.
Not sure if it meets your standards for well-performing, but it's been great for me.
In regards to sound, the mods I have done:
(https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1590987)
The mods I plan to do:
The PSU case needs some love, too. It's like Creality shopped around for the loudest fans it could find, and that's what shipped with the Ender. Anyway, these two things make the PSU much better: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3384875 WellFan Noctua 60x25 remix https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2967389 WellFan PSU case mod and for fun https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987473 cause, well, just cause (60mm fan guard) oh, and the fan: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009NQMESS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Heyyyyy, you've added a buck converter and have 12v now, time to change the main board fan! It's a noisy bugger too! It ends up being the same fan as what comes on the factory hotend cooler. Annoyinggggggggggg. Like a mosquito in my ear!!! https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Noctua 40x10mm fans are bolt in replacements for both of those, if you don't want to change the hotend cooler. I could have used a 40x10 on the Hero Me cooler I used - but the 40x20 looks cooler.
This is the LED strip lighting I used, it was expensive though, and I'm sure you could find much less expensive alternatives. https://www.rpelectronics.com/55-7160w-0-led-strip-outdoor-ip65-white-1m.html (white and red! z-rail and top rail!)
I printed a handle, and really like it, but it won't work without some love. Instead of modifying the 3d model I'm probably just gonna heatgun it into the shape I need it to be. Currently, it hits the Y-axis rail. It's here, if you wanna take a stab at it: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3313306
The Z-axis stepper is by far the loudest - I'm going to try to see if I can make a damper work, like this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07CL356J5/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A28ZWXW3ZSVNZU&psc=1 ** disclaimer note: I haven't done this yet. I haven't received the dampers.
I printed a zillion links from this thing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060 but didn't like the result after putting it all together. It motivated me to try and do something for cable management, though. I DID end up using a bunch of the start and end mounts, though, and cut off the link nubs. They worked super great for cable management.
I'm still not 100% happy with the cabling - I'm ordering these: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B074GZFYM1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A23BY812APN9IU&psc=1 and will be trimming/cutting/hiding/wrapping them so it looks nicer. Don't get me wrong, it works fine the way it is, but I don't like that flat ribbon cable stuff. It's too... ugly. It's either these cables or I'm going to build my own, which I like doing anyway. This will be soon. I don't think it'll look much different, but I think individually wrapped cables running to the stepper motors would look cooler. More space-ship-ie.
There's probably more. For this list, there's another list like it of failed/ugly/discarded parts - it took some trial and error for sure. It's worth it though. I've actually printed more stuff for my printer than I have for projects I'm working on. 3d printing is so funny that way!
If you have questions, I'm happy to help :) I have pictures of all this if you need them. I haven't figured out imgur, but will add photos to this album as time goes on: https://photos.app.goo.gl/AEXNqvTXE5ZZhnhi8.
-Tunder
PS. Man this is a really big post. I didn't realize I did so many things. Rabbit hole, this thing is.
I replaced my fan with the one below. It is very quiet, fits nicely, and cools as well as the old.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/
LoL and Diablo 3 are both not very graphic-intensive games, so you're graphics card should have no problem handling that. When it comes to more complex games, I'm worried that your performance (possibly) might be bottlenecked by the CPU. For that reason, maybe you should get this one.
EDIT: Ah shit, eduardobeattle is exactly right. Sockets are different. Sorry OP, forget what I mentioned above. If you have some more money, maybe get this one. Really sorry about the first one, but this one uses an AM3 socket which is compatible with the motherboard you want to get.
Here are the new parts I'm getting, sorry for the late reply:
Graphics card
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Superclocked-Dual-Link-Graphics-01G-P4-2753-KR/dp/B00IDG3LUO/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1393846412&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=GTX+750ti
PSU
http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-ATX12V-Management-Optimized-TR-700/dp/B008MF4RJU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1393846738&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=thermaltake+power+supply
CPU
http://www.amazon.com/AMD-FD6300WMHKBOX-FX-6300-6-Core-Processor/dp/B009O7YORK/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1393846550&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=FX+8320
I'm also throwing out the disk drive due to the gentleman above saying how nobody uses them anymore.
hmmm, if you dont want to change your mobo why not get an amd fx 6300? I don't have much personally experience with it but it should increase performance.
http://www.amazon.com/AMD-FD6300WMHKBOX-FX-6300-6-Core-Processor/dp/B009O7YORK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464897607&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=amd+fx+6300
aside from that i don't see much issue from your setup. Maybe try using compressed air to clean it out.
(also for the life of me i could not find a gpu called the amd 760G)
a good starting point could a CPU upgrade, I have a FX6300 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/AMD-FX6300-Edition-4-1GHz-Socket/dp/B009O7YORK) and I really think it brings great bang for the buck :)
Hey man!
Check out [this motherboard] (http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Intel-USB3-0-Motherboard-GA-H81M-H/dp/B00I6DLKCA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1412625307&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=lga+1150+motherboard) which goes for around 50 USD.
If you are new, you need to make sure that the socket type of the processor is a LGA 1150, so the motherboard must have the same socket type. Your i3 is a LGA 1150, so the motherboard and the processor should work together. Just made a similar mistake, however nothing terrible bad occured.
I know that you just asked for a motherboard, but I can't help but notice that you are going for a budget gaming build. Half the parts you have are the same as the parts I have. In fact, I ordered the Evga GTX 750 Ti from Newegg just this Saturday for 135 USD.
So what I have to say on your build regarless if you asked for help is to get a [Intel Core i3-4360 @ 3.70GHz] (http://www.amazon.com/Intel-i3-4360-Processor-Cache-BX80646I34360/dp/B00J2LIFDC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1412625825&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Intel+Core+i3-4360+%40+3.70GHz) which is more expensive, at 150 USD, but has way better performance.
Even better yet is to go for an AMD processor, however I know that some people are not a fan of them, but thats fine.
If you don't mind about AMD, pick up a [AMD FX-6350 Six-Core] (http://www.amazon.com/AMD-FD6300WMHKBOX-FX-6300-Processor-Edition/dp/B009O7YORK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1412626082&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=AMD+FX-6350+Six-Core) which goes for 100 USD, but is far better than the i3 I linked above, and the i3 in your current build.
Please note that changing to AMD will change the motherboard you need, but the cost of the motherboard should still stay around 50 USD.
AMD also has a 8 core processor that runs for 130 USD that you may want to look into. Most games dont utilize more than 2 cores however.
I will gladly help you with anything you need.
One more thing I am looking into is buying a case that comes with a PSU. I know that Coolermaster, a reputable company, provides an option like this for around 60-70 USD. You could look into that if you prefer.
Also note that a operating system will cost you almost 100 USD, a sizable chunk of money in a budget build, unless your run Linux.
Glad to help.
it runs on both AM2+ and AM3 so now we gotta find out what motherboard socket you have. download a program CPU-Z it will give that info. If its AM3 this will be your best option http://www.amazon.com/AMD-FD6300WMHKBOX-FX-6300-Processor-Edition/dp/B009O7YORK
From Amazon with free shipping.
Amazon on the used but new section, not original packaging
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/B01MXSI216/ref=sr_1_1_olp?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491393786&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=i7+7700k
Thank you for replying. I think I will just return both my 1080s and get the Xp since it is the same price. Is the Titan Xp different than the other Titans? When I look at the prices on Amazon compared to the Nvidia link you graciously provided, the price difference the X (very expensive) and the Xp (cheaper) is astounding.
I am going to order the Xp now. Thank you for linking me to it. Is this CPU good enough for the Titan?: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXSI216/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
So, for $973 here is the list of components you can actually buy:
cooler, which is optional
motherboard
Cpu
Ram
Gpu
hard drive
case
PSU
I did what I could to save where I could and allocate elsewhere. You won't need to upgrade too soon from this moving forward. If you'd rather go cheaper I can help with that as well.
Bruh cheapest 1080 in the US is $470 that too on Amazon without sale, going by the ₹65 for a dollar gives about 42% markup, the model you mentioned is about $510 which is about 32% markup. Also 43k is the absolute lowest the price goes here whereas they have sales dropping the prices very low.
Also Ryzen currently is at 25%-35%markup depending on the model(lowest was 1700x at 24%).
The Titan Xp is at about 67% markup (didn't check the year so correct me if I'm wrong)
And also the cheapest 1080 is the mini one, which has clock speed a few mghz higher than fe so if I want something better like more cooling or higher clock speeds and not just the bare minimum I have to shill out 60k to 70k for the Asus ones or even the fe whereas the same card is sold around $550 at newegg which comes with forhonor or ghost recall wildlands free (both worth $60) so while that guy was wrong about the 100% markup you were also being disingenuous with that 43k figure and 18% markup .
Edit - source for prices
[cheapest 1080] (https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16814126110R)
[1080 mini @$530 with free AAA game] (https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16814500414)
Ryzen 1700
ryzen 1700x
[1080 founders edition US with free game] (https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16814487243) vs [1080 FE in your link] (https://www.mdcomputers.in/index.php?route=product/product&amp;path=86&amp;product_id=4594)
Just for the lulz [evga gtx Titan Z india] ( https://www.amazon.in/dp/B00JZ4SN4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JDq.yb95M47JH
) vs [evga gtx Titan Z US] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KU2CVJ6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492977634&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=Evga+gtx+Titan+z&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51d8u7bQA8L&amp;ref=plSrch)
Edit 2- in the link you provided the 1080 mini is out of stock so the next cheapest one is 44.5k one which is currently at newegg for $470 giving a 47% markup.
On sale for $270
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Cooler-YD1700BBAEBOX/dp/B06WP5YCX6/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500916725&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=ryzen
Wha??
R7 1700 for $323.99
R7 1800X for $419.99
Are you canadian? In that case, yes that would be right, but in that case you could also go for Namibian Dollars and we would be talking about thousands of dollars we are saving ;)
For 269$ yes it is https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP5YCX6
Hmm, can I direct your attention here? I would argue that this is the best bang for buck CPU. Period.
Pretty sure the MSI B450 Pro Carbon or Asus B450 Strix has what you need, though not sure if the use of the M.2 slot will cut off one or two of the SATA ports. Both have 4 DIMM slots as well. I think £400 will happily get you the 1700, £100-120ish B450 mainboard (with what you specified), and 32GB RAM.
Mainboard
I think he's talking about this https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Cooler-YD1700BBAEBOX/dp/B06WP5YCX6/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549417833&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=ryzen+7
The Amazon listing for the 1700 shows the box from a few different angles. Image 3 says "this product contains a [...] processor, [and] thermal solution". The listing says "Wraith Spire" and LED in the description.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP5YCX6/
edit: this leak shows what SKUs and coolers come together
http://www.eteknix.com/amd-ryzen-7-wraith-max-and-spire-coolers-revealed/
another edit The horse's mouth: http://www.amd.com/en-us/press-releases/Pages/ryzen-7-2017feb22.aspx
Not sure where you are getting your information from, but that is the whole point of the X series SKUs. They are binned higher and feature XFR for auto-overclocking. The non-X SKUs are still unlocked multipliers but do NOT have the Extended Frequency Range auto-overclocking feature that the X SKUs DO.
Here's a few sources, including a couple that were in attendance at today's event.
https://www.kitguru.net/components/cpu/luke-hill/kitguru-amd-event-ryzen-7-cpus-set-to-hit-intel-pricing-hard/
"That ‘X’ prefix denotes support for eXtended Frequency Range (XFR) which allows a number of the CPU’s cores to operate at up to 1 multiplier bin higher if thermal and power threshold budgets are not saturated"
"Ryzen 7 1700 – 8 cores, 16 threads, 3.0GHz base speed, 3.7GHz boost speed, no XFR support, 65W TDP, $329 USD, £319.99 OCUK price."
Techreport, who was also in attendance at the event today and went home with review samples lists these specs as part of what was announced at the event.
https://techreport.com/news/31471/amd-eight-core-16-thread-chips-lead-the-ryzen-charge
Model | Cores | Threads | Base Clock | Boost Clock | XFR | TDP | Price
------|---|----|----|----|----|----|----
Ryzen 1800X | 8 | 16 | 3.6GHz | 4.0GHz | Yes | 95W | $499
Ryzen 1700X | 8 | 16 | 3.4GHz | 3.8GHz | Yes | 95W | $399
Ryzen 1700 | 8 | 16 | 3.0GHz | 3.7GHz | No | 65W | $329
"The X in the product name (in this and other models) denotes the presence of the XFR technology (eXtended Frequency Range), allowing you to reach even higher frequencies in the presence of adequate cooling. XFR is just one of the technologies SenseMI" -> translated from: https://www.tomshw.it/ryzen-7-1800x-1700x-e-1700-specifiche-e-prestazioni-83576 in regards to information released by AMD at today's event.
All of this is from those who attended and official AMD specs released today. There is no question about it, that is literally what the "X" in the SKU denotes. XFR. This is all just a matter of hours old information, not "last week". You mention you take what people who attended have to say as priority, which of course makes sense. Only problem is that it is the exact opposite of what you're saying.
Also, the pre-order listings on sites like Amazon make this clear. For instance,
1800X: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9JXK4G, clearly lists XFR on the product page
1700X: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X3W9NGG, clearly lists XFR on the product page
1700: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP5YCX6, does not list XFR on the product page
On OCUK's product pages as well, XFR is listed as a spec on only the 1800X and 1700X product pages:
1800X: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/amd-ryzen-7-eight-core-1800x-4.00ghz-socket-am4-processor-retail-cp-39v-am.html
1700X: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/amd-ryzen-7-eight-core-1700x-3.80ghz-socket-am4-processor-retail-cp-39w-am.html
1700: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/amd-ryzen-7-eight-core-1700-3.70ghz-socket-am4-processor-retail-cp-39x-am.html
--> OCUK "'X' Version with automatic XFR overclocking"
Good find! I'm still looking for the 1700.
Found it: https://www.amazon.com/AMD-YD1700BBAEBOX-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B06WP5YCX6/ref=bdl_pop_ttl_B06WP5YCX6
Links from a few sites here.
In amazon apply the "BIGTHANKS" promo code for a $8.62 discount (Only today Feb 2)
Amazon R7 1800x
Amazon R7 1700x
Amazon R7 1700
------------------------
Microcenter R7 1800x
Microcenter R7 1700x
Microcenter R7 1700
---------------------------
Newegg CPUs & Mobos
Newegg R7 1800x
Newegg R7 1700x
Newegg R7 1700
-----------------------
Newegg Canada R7 1800x
Newegg Canada R7 1700x
Newegg Canada R7 1700
------------------------
NCIX CPUs & Mobos
NCIX R7 1800x
NCIX R7 1700x
NCIX R7 1700
Thank you for your help. I think he is in a better place. He was 33. It was really tragic and unexpected.
So I've gotten rid of the CPU cooler and switched to the Ryzen 1700. I found one on amazon that comes with a CPU cooler: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP5YCX6 Trying to find a good priced 1070. Thanks again.
Just curious about Linux, why do you use that system?
When you order using amazon.com, once you pay the customs upfront which shows on amazon page, you do not have any further liability, even if amazon has to pay them more they wont ask you. Obviously if amazon itself is adding 40% then that's another thing. Similar is the case with Newegg global store and I have heard duties there are generally lower.
&#x200B;
Or on amazon.in items which are under global store like below:
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.in/AMD-Ryzen-YD1700BBAEBOX-3-7GHz-Processor/dp/B06WP5YCX6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542285756&sr=8-1&keywords=ryzen+1700
&#x200B;
If its price drops in US, you may see a similar drop here.
good way to save money if you won't be overclocking and want the best stock chip, anyone who isn't aware though, the 1700 is the same chip/silicon as the 1800x , if you get lucky on the silicon you could overclock a 1700 to the same 4.0 Ghz that the others can hit and save money. ( some chips have gone higher, but most cant go beyond 4.0 )
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06WP5YCX6/?tag=pcp0f-20
$414 dollars plus taxes
You can easily google a guide to overclock ryzen or get help in reddit
Ah, got it!
Amazon says:
> AMD Wraith Spire cooler, featuring color-configurable LED illumination for customized style
So, it's indeed RGB stock cooler, nice!
For CPU (depending on how multithreaded your work is): Something like a i5 7600K with Z270 if you only need 4 cores or an i7 7700K if single core performance is important for you
If more cores/threads then either one of these Ryzen CPUs: 1700/1700X/1800X. They are all 8 core/16 thread CPUs and the 1700 is the same price as the 7700K.
Amazon Ryzen 1700
The X99 line has become redundant (i7 6800K/6850K/6900K) in my opinion.
For RAM, go with either 16/32GB RAM at 3000/3200 MHz
Definitely an SSD for OS and some programs
You can get the 1700x for 170 on amazon.
https://smile.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Cooler-YD1700BBAEBOX/dp/B06WP5YCX6
Spain (all prices include 21% VAT)
Part | Amazon | PCComponentes
---|---|----
1800X | 446€ | 529€
1700X | 363€ | 419€
1700 | 316€ | 316€
1600X | 250€ | 279€
1600 | 218€ | 225€
1500X | 203€ | 209€
1400 | 170€ | 179€
I only welected the one sold directly by amazon or managed by them, if you're willing to go with Amazon marketplace there's a 1800X for 432€ and a 1600X for 236€.
They seem to be pretty close to most of the european prices.
My question regarding the X version is what to pick when I already have a Corsair 280mm AIO.
/u/FreelanceOfficial (copying you for the build info in this post)
Great posts, kiwiandapple!
I've got some responses below:
Cpu- https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Cooler-YD1700BBAEBOX/dp/B06WP5YCX6/ref=sr_1_18?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521700065&amp;sr=1-18&amp;keywords=cpu
Gpu
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Windforce-Graphics-GV-N1060WF2OC-3GD/dp/B01KQUDE2Y/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521699625&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=GeForce+GTX+1060
Harddrive
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Cache-Desktop-Drive-WD10EZEX/dp/B0088PUEPK
Motherboared
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Motherboard-B350M-GAMING-PRO/dp/B06X3Y7KB5/ref=pd_sim_147_6?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B06X3Y7KB5&amp;pd_rd_r=NK0YGV4JWT87JP1TX5AV&amp;pd_rd_w=VArLs&amp;pd_rd_wg=5DoKl&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=NK0YGV4JWT87JP1TX5AV
Ram
https://www.amazon.com/Ballistix-Single-PC4-21300-288-Pin-Memory/dp/B01N5P755B/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521700408&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=ddr4+ram
Power supply
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Warranty-Tester-100-B1-0600-KR/dp/B00EON40CS/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521700503&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=power+supply
Fans
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Sleeve-Computer-Cooling-ROCF-13001/dp/B00KB8CB9O/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521700563&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=fan+pc
This is what I came up with.
took me 40 minutes
Hmm, Part out the computer, you could still get at least $200 for it if you wanted to go that route.
Definitely check out the AMD Ryzen CPU's, absolute monsters for the money. I'm using the (pretty much linked one) at 3.9GHz overclock, this thing handles 4k easily. A GTX 1060/1070 would be a good choice of videocard too. 16GB of RAM is a minimum when working with 4k. Personally, I have 32GB, which works fine for average sized projects.
not from amazon (3rd party S&Y electronics), and has a referral link FYI.
here's referral free link https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Cooler-YD1700BBAEBOX/dp/B06WP5YCX6
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VWHXK94/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WP5YCX6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;ps
They are the same card, but I wouldn't buy either. The Turbo is an inefficient blower style card, which means it will run hotter and louder than other options. Also, paying £286 for a 6G 1060 is way overpriced. You can get a GTX 1660 for £230:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07PSSLPWH/
For an even better value, it looks like there are RX 580s available for as little as £159:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06Y66K3XD/
Well this is the one I was checking, and the US version I referred to at the bottom of the page:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/XFX-Radeon-GDDR5-DVI-D-Graphics/dp/B06Y66K3XD
I don't think it's as bad as the MSI RX 580 Armor, which overheats really badly, but probably worse quality control than the big manufacturers in terms of faulty cards going out.
Definitely been there.
Alternatively, you can go for a refurb 3770 with an RX 580.
The CPU has 90 day warranty fulfilled by Amazon, and is actually a great deal. Double check the 3770 is compatible with your mobo though.
Other than that, eBay is your friend if you trust strangers.
Yes your processor is still very good to this day,
https://www.amazon.com/XFX-Radeon-1386MHz-Graphics-RX-580P8DFD6/dp/B06Y66K3XD?ref_=ast_sto_dp
or
https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-GeForce-Windforce-Graphics-Gv-N1650WF2OC-4GD/dp/B07QF6NH2S/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=gtx+1050ti&qid=1568521867&s=electronics&sr=1-9
these two i'd say are pretty good for the money and if that's still too much or if you have more to spend let me know and i'll try to help you some more (:
I did a little bit of research and i found this card which might use more power but gets anywhere from 10-20 fps extra most of the time and also has 2gb extra vram.
I like the XFX card: https://www.amazon.com/XFX-1386Mhz-Graphic-Cards-RX-580P8DFD6/dp/B06Y66K3XD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493690907&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=XFX+Gts+XXX+Edition+Rx+580
for $250
Actually a good PC. i5-3350 isn't bad, its fine compared to today's i5s. Throw this graphics card in and you will blow through the witcher 3 and GTA5: https://www.amazon.com/XFX-1386Mhz-Graphic-Cards-RX-580P8DFD6/dp/B06Y66K3XD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493692625&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rx+580+8+gb
Your R9 290 performs slightly worse than that card so I wouldn't go with that one something like this should be better: https://www.amazon.com/XFX-Radeon-1386MHz-Graphics-RX-580P8DFD6/dp/B06Y66K3XD/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538298335&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=rx+580&amp;dpID=41aPQA9mndL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Was looking at nitro+ ones like OP mentioned he got, didn't realise that was the price for used ones on amazon - new ones are $240 it seems.
Although, you can get an 8GB XFX rx580 for only $190.
So 580s for 200 or less, is quite possible currently.
You've got here a RX 580 for a very good price: Radeon RX 580 189.99$
You can wait till a new year when all prices will decrease after chrismas but I don't think that you will find rx 580 or 1060 gtx for a smaller price than this one.
Amazon has a big sale atm on a 1060.
EDIT: Amazon also has the 580 $10 cheaper. either is a good choice.
Your build looks good, but is there a reason you’re going with the 1050 ti? For about the same price, you could have an RX 580 that has twice the vRAM and should outperform the 1050. It should be possible to find one with a small form factor as well if space is a concern.
Example: XFX Radeon RX 580 GTS XXX Edition 1386MHz OC+, 8GB GDDR5, VR Ready, Dual BIOS, 3xDP HDMI DVI, AMD Graphics Card (RX-580P8DFD6) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y66K3XD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bXd5CbVBEKM82
> Can I get any decent upgrade for such a small budget?
Yes, you can get the RX 580 8GB card, which is an optimal choice for 1080p gaming. Averaging at least 60 FPS on high to ultra settings in practically any game out there today, should not be an issue for it. Refer to the link below. You can also search eBay for used GPU's as well, many of which can be found for a good price.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y66K3XD/?tag=pcpapi-20
Also, I would try to find a CPU upgrade for your board. Maybe a Xeon CPU would be an option assuming it relatively cheap and compatible with your board. You will also want to overclock as well to get the best performance possible out of it. Refer to the link below for 1366 Xeon's that might be an option for you.
https://ark.intel.com/search?q=x56
What do you guys think of this gpu:
https://www.amazon.com/XFX-Radeon-1386MHz-Graphics-RX-580P8DFD6/dp/B06Y66K3XD
It’s seem to be a really good price for a Rx 580
https://www.amazon.co.uk/XFX-Radeon-GDDR5-DVI-D-Graphics/dp/B06Y66K3XD/ref=sr_1_8?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536873058&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=rx+580
Preforms basiclly the same and is a bit cheaper.
I don’t know if the sale is in Canada but it’s 100 bucks off in US here it is
Much appreciated. But when comparing old spec to new spec how do you know it's better other than the pricing? For example this graphics card on [amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/XFX-Radeon-1386MHz-Graphics-RX-580P8DFD6/dp/B06Y66K3XD/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=graphics+card&amp;qid=1556097878&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3_) compared to the 1080 TI, is the 1080 being the bigger number means it's better than the 580?
Multiple upgrades. Motherboard. You may not see much a performance increase but it will allow vastly more upgrades. I recommend the b450 gaming plus max (which is atx so make sure it fits). Dont know if you have an ssd or not, but if you thats a cheap upgrade that makes a huge difference. Your cpu is ok as it is, so unless you have a huge budget, id leave it. Your gpu NEEDS an upgrade. For 150gbp or 256cad you can get an Rx 580 (8gb) which is really nice, but on a lower budget you can get a gtx 1050ti (4gb). Dont know much about your ram but i'd upgrade to 16gb ddr4-3000 but make sure its compatible with your mobo + cpu
If you're in the US, $180 for that brand/model on Amazon. It's a good 1080p@60Hz GPU.
Should I change anything on my GPU? This the exact model that I have. I'm not sure how demanding most of the games I play are, but one that I feel needs overclocking for better performance is Division 2.
If you don't want used, Rx 580
I think prime gives free shipping
https://www.amazon.com/XFX-Radeon-1386MHz-Graphics-RX-580P8DFD6/dp/B06Y66K3XD/
$319 base w/ $20 MIR = $299 (basically the same cost as a GTX 1060 6gb these days)
Can go slightly worse card to save $9 but it's not worth it in my opinion.
In comparison, 1070's are starting at around $460.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814126109
This OC'd triple fan one is $490 - $20 MIR = $470, so is probably your best bet for the money.
&nbsp;
So is the 1070 going to be $170 better for you? Particularly as you have a Freesync monitor at the moment? I dunno, that's going to be your call.
GPUs have been trending downwards in cost though, so we may (hopefully) be seeing the prices of them return to reality. I bought my 1060 6gb for $199 right before prices went all stupid, so there's plenty of room for continued improvement in the GPU market.
FYI all, Amazon has had the 8 GB version at $199 for months, and it's a very nice card.
Where exactly, can you screenshot it?
Go to: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y66K3XD/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
And show me the amazon packaging on this specific item from amazon
That's more likely because of increased availability due to Sapphire discontinuing the Nitro+ line and only making Pulses.
You could find an XFX RX 580 8GB from between 180-190USD as early as December of last year.
Amazon
Newegg
If you don't want to upgrade to the latest and greatest. All the Ryzen 2 CPUs are on sale right now to make way to the Ryzen 3 stocks. Ryzen 7 2700x is $199 for a Prime Day Deal.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B428M7F 200$ with prime. Is this any good?
Even lower still on .com, closer to $300 even after CADUSD: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B428M7F/
Yeah that’s something I’ve been thinking about, but Amazon has a sale on almost every processor and I don’t know how to check when the sale ends.
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=amd+ryzen+2700x&amp;qid=1562184772&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
Also not to mention how expensive it’s going to be for me since I have to get a new mobo and ram. Still thanks for the advice, I probably will wait.
>AMD Ryzen 7 2700X Processor with Wraith Prism LED Cooler
424.51 With Amazon Prime
I think you can price match this when it's on shelf at memory express. Although I definitely think $449 is the MSRP
I would suggest an air cooler instead of an AIO, something like a Noctua NH-D15 performs pretty well.
Also, if you want to avoid getting an aftermarket CPU cooler, you should consider the Ryzen line of processors (like the Ryzen 7 2700X) their stock coolers are pretty good, and can even handle the processors OC'ed
Look under used and new, find special offers. Shows both the game and game pass for me.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sSdYDbZJ7H51X
idk what hes talking about with the 15% but i assume its this?
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428M7F
&nbsp;
Edit: this is the 2700 and its a much better deal- only $140 USD.
I don't know much about building PC's, but is there a reason to go for a Ryzen 5 instead of a Ryzen 7 with 2 more cores for cheaper?
https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=ryzen+7+2700x&qid=1574991945&s=electronics&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=1-1
This is what Im looking at and have it in the cart at the moment.
This is the board
Aorus B450 AORUS ELITE (Socket AM4/B450/DDR4/S-ATA 600/ATX) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07GYRW53K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Vpt1DbA8QE42W
And this is the card
AMD Ryzen 7 2700X Processor with Wraith Prism RGB LED Cooler - YD270XBGAFBOX https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Dst1DbRGB1Y0W
Amazon says
$329.00$294.99 , so it looks like your price is pretty solid for the 2700x$415 or $425 for the 2700x
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=asc_df_B07B428M7F1527418800000
Omg finally hope Amazon CA follows through
Edit: NOPE lol went up to $320 when it’s supposed to be $270! What a joke.
https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-3600-12-Thread-Processor/dp/B07STGGQ18/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=ryzen+3600&amp;qid=1562787821&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1
That's what I figured. And thanks for the suggestions.
I'll consider this combo.
ASUS B450 AMD Ryzen 2 ATX Gaming Motherboard AM4 DDR4 HDMI DVI M.2 USB 3.1 Gen2 (Prime B450-Plus) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FKT5CTH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gDzADbDDXGR40
AMD Ryzen 5 3600 6-Core, 12-Thread Unlocked Desktop Processor with Wraith Stealth Cooler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07STGGQ18/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zEzADbX9DRNSH
https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07STGGQ18 - 3600
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07STGGQ18 - 3600
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SXMZLPK - 3700X
https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07SXMZLPK - 3700X
https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07SXMZLP9 - 3900X
https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B07SXMZLP9 - 3900X
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SXMZLP9 - 3900X
https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07SYSXQSY - MSI Mpg X570 Gaming Plus
Get This instead of that current CPU. This is cheaper and will actually give good performance during games. Look at the reviews.
The rest looks good, but use the money saved from the CPU to buy a better GPU. Maybe this (again, look at the reviews, the second one down especially.)
EDIT: Just realised you're below his budget currently :P Put all the left over money into a better and better GPU until it reaches the desired price.
Hope I helped.
Hi all,
I currently have an AMD FX 6300 6-Core Black Edition 3.5ghz AM3+ processor sitting on my shelf that is currently incompatible with my motherboard. It seats in the chip slot correctly, but isn't recognized upon boot-up. I built this PC 7 years ago, now, and most of the components have been replaced aside from my AMD Phenom II X2 560 Duo Core Processor, which seems to be the choking point for my performance, so I'm hoping to upgrade to the AMD FX 6300.
I was curious if any of you would be able to point me towards a decent motherboard that would be compatible with this newer processor.
The rest of my specs are as follows:
Thanks!
pc-kombo recommendation
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD FX-6300 | EUR 112,88 @ Amazon.de
Motherboard | Asrock 980 DE3/U3S3 | EUR 55,03 @ Amazon.de
Memory | Crucial Ballistix 8GB DDR3 1866 (8 GB) | EUR 46,48 @ Amazon.de
Storage | WD10EZEX Blue (1 TB) | EUR 50,00 @ Amazon.de
SSD | Sandisk Ultra II 120 (128 GB) | EUR 52,90 @ Amazon.de
Video Card | GeForce GTX 960 | EUR 219,90 @ Caseking
Case | Cooler Master N300 | EUR 47,00 @ Amazon.de
Power Supply | Be quiet! BN142 (400 W) | EUR 44,48 @ Amazon.de
| Total | €628.67
| Generated by pc-kombo 26.12.2015 |
For the display, http://www.amazon.de/BenQ-GL2450HM-Monitor-Reaktionszeit-schwarz/dp/B005OPLG0O (the DVI version) would be fitting.
The main thing is that I would go with a FX-6300; due to the recent price drop it's showing up as the same price as the 4300.
You may want to go for 2x4gb ram so you can take advantage of dual channel; the mobo has 4 ram slots so it won't really affect upgradeability.
Since R9 270 serves well for gaming, for that budget you can nail an G3258 plus an H81-B85-H97 motherboard, FX-4100 is a pretty "old" chip and may be an slightly bottleneck.
At most, you can get:
GPU
Green Side: EVGA GTX 960 starting at $200 dls may be an 25-35% faster than your current GPU.
Red Side: R9 280X Vapor X Same story, but performs a little better than the GTX 960.
CPU
]Blue side:] One of the best performers is the G3258 it's a Haswell unlocked chip, you can get this little monster up to 4,2 ghz easily with the proper cooling, also to note you need a new motherboard for this chip, ANY ASUS branded board (H81, B85, H97, Z97) is able to overclock unlocked mutiplier chips since last year i think, it from $69-89
one of the best price-performance chip, don't get fooled by the "Pentium name".
Red Side: FX-6300, a bit "old" but also one of the best price/performance chips, it doesn't even bottlenecks a top tier card. And you won't need to change you Motherboard.
So: ($69 G3258 - $55 ASUS H81-M ) If you go Intel side, so you'll left $174 for the gpu
and for the red side FX-6300 and spare $198 for gpu
That cpu is quite good, but if you can try to get an Fx-6300. It has the same power rating and is quite faster. It also has a similar price, unless you have snagged a lower deal than $120. http://www.amazon.com/AMD-FX-Series-Six-Core-Processor-FD6300WMHKBOX/dp/B009O7YORK
same goes for you buddy, you can't build a pc in India looking at r/buildapc lol, that place isn't for you being in India. Think!
p.s. I'm also rich...
p.p.s. just gonna leave this link for cpu here: http://www.amazon.in/AMD-FD8350FRHKBOX-FX-8350-Processor/dp/B009O7YUF6
Boom. Click me.
so it would be unable to support http://www.amazon.com/AMD-FD8350FRHKBOX-FX-8350-8-Core-Processor/dp/B009O7YUF6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462229826&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=AMD+FX-8350+Black+Edition+Vishera+8-Core+4.0+GHz+%284.2+GHz+Turbo%29+Socket+AM3%2B+125W+FD8350FRHKBOX+Desktop+Processor+Series%3A+FX-Series?
Would you recommend this one?
Or more so what would you recommend?
I may be wrong, but for that price the GPU doesn't look right. You may want to go for a cheaper motherboard, and definitely cheaper RAM. Heck, if you're just gaming, I'd go with 8gb of RAM.
Here's your CPU for $30 less:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009O7YUF6/
spain, huh?? amazon.es will be your best bet, trust me (I'm also from spain, and the best prices I've seen here are amazon's)
Also, that build is good, very good for a mid-term gaming PC, as long as you are sure you want to stick with intel. I mean, you have pretty good AMD CPU's out there, better than that intel and for less money, say, THIS is one of the best (affordable) CPU's out there... and is cheaper than the intel. sure there are better CPU's but cost at least twice!! (I'm thinking of unlocked i7's, which are the only that can offer 8 threads... ) 4 threads are good for right now, but may be not enough in a FEW years (I'm used to plan ahead and make my rigs useful for at least 4 years... last one lasted like 7 years with minor (GPU) upgrades.)
GPU-wise, the 270X is only like 10€ more, and could be worth it. just take a look at videocardbenchmark.net and compare the performance of both of them. (note: they also have CPU data, so take a look at it!! )
also, you need to think about the HDD. you'll want a big and fast one, probably a 2Tb WD caviar blue would be good enough (I'm using the caviar green and while EVERYBODY will tell you is slow as hell, since it's not even a 7200rpm drive... it works good enough for me). I don't recommend reusing an old HDD, for two reasons:
one, HDD's life is "limited", I wouldn't trust a drive for more tan, say, a few years (5 or so). I myself use them for way longer, but my old seagates are in a raid 1 (mirror). else I wouldn't be trusting them, and they would be gathering dust.
and two, HDD's are cheap enough... and for a gaming PC you'll wat a big one (at least 1 Tb, trust me, it seems much but it will get filled sooner than you think) WD caviar blue 1 Tb even a raid 0 of those would be good (note I can't find the 2 Tb caviar blue right now, not sure why.... a green could do, or else, a raid 0 of blues would be even faster.) Also, a system SSD would be nice, but not essential.
Personally I'd stick with the case you have, because the case is nothing more than a shell that houses the components that make your PC a gaming PC :) If you want to browse for more cases, check here for some Mid-Tower cases (just make sure you read reviews because cases vary in quality):
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;N=100007583%20600006302&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;name=ATX%20Mid%20Tower&amp;cm_sp=CompCase9_-VisNav-_-ATXMidTower
As for removing the OS and the DVD drive, you end up having to add all the parts to the shopping cart of whatever site you plan to buy on. So if you're buying everything on Amazon, just add each part to Amazon. Just don't add the DVD drive of the OS when you add them to your cart.
The video card I chose follows your price-point, and will run most games at and around high quality. If you want to run all games at high and ultra I would recommend a GTX 770, but that is a $330+ card, so if you are willing to spend a little extra money, go ahead and buy that one instead.
Edit: This is the processor that I had previously added:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009O7YUF6/?tag=pcpapi-20
This?
THere's still 3 hours as of right now: AMD FX 8350 for $129.99
pretty solid price for this processer.
You might want to consider going with the AMD FX-8350 instead. It'll save you about $70, and has a better Passmark score
You are asking $150 for a used and possibly damaged 8350 that goes for $170 brand new on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/AMD-FD8350FRHKBOX-FX-8350-8-Core-Black/dp/B009O7YUF6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415243836&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=amd+fx+8350
Good to know! I might as well splurge a tiny bit more for an AMD 8350 at that price. We'll see.
8350 works pretty good for a good price.
http://www.amazon.com/AMD-FD8350FRHKBOX-FX-8350-FX-Series-Processor/dp/B009O7YUF6
I`m saving up for this CPU for my computer I'm trying to slowly build up my computers power a bit and this is the next item to cross off my list.
I'm planning on recycling all my old parts so I can build a computer with my son and then give it to him for his birthday.
Super Nintendo, Sega Genesis When I was dead broke, man I couldn't picture this
Get this instead: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B009O7YUF6/ref=psdc_430515031_t1_B00DGGW3MI
For cooling, this will be perfect: http://www.amazon.co.uk/quiet-BK018-Quiet-Dark-Cooler/dp/B00HPX7IKU/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1454094251&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=bequiet+dark+rock
The M5A97 is an AMD AM3+ board, which is a completely different socket from AMD. You can either choose to change your mobo, and get the i7 (the i7 is a waste if you are only gaming, i5s are perfect for gaming on intel) OR pickup an FX-8350, so you save money by not buying a new board.
I have a heat issue. Build specs:
Idle temperatures were 44° C with the stock cooler so I replaced it with the T2. The case purchased didn't allow a T4 to fit in it - it was about half an inch too high.
With the T2 idle temperatures dropped to 26° C while the cores are running @ 1400 Mhz.
No overclocking has been left in place; it was accidentally enabled for a short period. However, when my son starts playing games he finds himself at 76° C and the thermal protection kicks in, locking the box up.
I made sure to remove the plastic on the bottom of the T2, where contact is made between the cooler pipes and the CPU. I made sure to evenly spread the thermal paste over the chip. I've ensured that the cooler is tightly clamped to the CPU.
Now this board has an "OC Genie" and he did activate it, however, I uninstalled the software overclocker (MSI Command Center) and turned off the OC Genie in the BIOS. I reset the power supply levels to default, as well as anything else I could find in the BIOS. (I don't do overclocking at this point in my life. If I want a 5% boost in speed, I pay for it.)
There are two fans on the case, one on the front and one on the back. The computer is currently in a corner area with little to no ventilation, so that's the next thing we're changing. However, I thought it might be useful to ask for advice from all of you.
Any advice on what I can do to help cool this thing? I know AMDs tend to run much hotter than Intels, but this seems ridiculous. In general I see acceptable ranges of 20° C to 60° C. Would you guys agree that's an acceptable range?
If necessary we can buy a new case and put the T4, or whatever recommended cooler is there, on the PC.
Thanks.
http://pcpartpicker.com/product/Jc8Zxr/corsair-case-fan-co9050008ww
some of the best for the money.
Not sure what you mean for a y-splitter though, like a fan header so you can plug multiple in? https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483481591&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=case+fan+hub
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483481591&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=case%2Bfan%2Bhub&amp;th=1
It doesn't matter if you connect a 3 pin fan into a 4 pin header/slot and as for not having enough fan headers as long as you have an intake and an exhaust it won't matter too much or you can buy a fan splitter off most computer related stores. https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484448052&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=3+pin+splitter
Here is more of a build for your budget:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor | $110.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $53.88 @ OutletPC
Memory | Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $29.99 @ Adorama
Storage | Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $41.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $47.49 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus Radeon R9 380 4GB Video Card | $124.88 @ OutletPC
Case | Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case | $55.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $45.98 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $83.89 @ OutletPC
Monitor | Asus VS248H-P 24.0" Monitor | $141.98 @ Newegg
Keyboard | Logitech MK120 Wired Slim Keyboard w/Optical Mouse | $14.49 @ SuperBiiz
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $821.43
| Mail-in rebates | -$70.00
| Total | $751.43
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-26 21:37 EDT-0400 |
Edit: You'll need this: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469583794&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=4+pin+FAN+SPLITTER
Considering the small form factor and the very little airflow inside, the cpu temps are great. Idle temps range from 33°C-to 39°C sometimes, when I don't turn on the AC and the room temperature climbs above 30°C.
Noise levels are fine. I never hear the thing. I don't sit close to the case, though. But even if I would, then the only thing I would hear is the gpu under pressure, when gaming. In a very silent room, you will be able to hear the fan spinning, when you are close by, but subjectively speaking it is very silent.
As for the Noctua case fans, supporting the gpu: you might need a fan splitter cable, depending on your motherboard. Mine only had one 4 pin socket to spare, so I ended up getting this cable.
Edit: Just wanted to add that the gpu in the pictures is a 980Ti and not a 970, like I had in mind for the build.
So here's the link. Your motherboard will control the speed based on how hot it is.
Get this: http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465025128&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=corsair+fan+splitter
The CPF01 will let you put two fans into one header. The CPF04 will let you put 4 fans into one header. They will all be controlled by temp of the system so long as your fans have the 3 or 4 pin connectors that fit with these products.
It seems like your mobo isn't designed to handle more fans than that.
I did some digging. You do have options- you can buy a splitter for a couple bucks and connect multiple fans to a single plug (the three pronged plugs should fit into the four pronged, um, prongs). Or you can splice the wires together, but you'd better know what you're doing there. Or buy a better mobo (though that doesn't seem like it'd be an option).
something like this would work okay. https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473528343&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=fan+splitter. Though you wont fit all of your fans, unless you get two and also plug the CPU fan this way. but it will make the other fan a slave to the CPU.
even if the splitter is 4 pins and the fans are 3 pins, you can still put the fans into it, as the fourth pin is only used for PWM, and isn't required, just make sure you put it in correctly. There are also fan splitters that split into three, but i read they aren't recommended. You could also get a fan hub which allows for more fans, but i think you need to power it by molex.
That depends on what hub you're getting.
If you know you won't buy even more fans, then don't bother with a hub - just get a splitter. That way two fans are controlled by one cha_fan header, and one by the other.
If you want a hub, there's different kinds. Some are fed by a cha_fan header again, in that case, all fans fed by the hub run at the speed assigned by the header. Some don't support any control at all, in that case, the fans just run full blast. Some support manual control, though usually those require a 5.25" bay you don't have.
You should be fine as of right now to just have one fan going. Connect the exhaust fan up
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1488321943&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=pmw+splitter
Your motherboard has 6x 4-pin fan headers based on the manufacturer's specs, all of which should work with any fans regardless of what they are called.
>1 x CPU Fan connector(s) (1 x 4 -pin)
1 x CPU OPT Fan connector(s) (1 x 4 -pin)
2 x Chassis Fan connector(s) (2 x 4 -pin)
1 x AIO_PUMP connector (1 x 4 -pin)
1 x W_PUMP+ connector (1 x 4 -pin)
If you already make use of all of those, here's the first example of a splitter on Amazon which still allows the motherboard to control two fans together via voltage or PWM.
Okay, one thing at a time:
1 - Your motherboard seems to only have one fan port for case fans, and the one for your CPU cooler. You don't necessarily need to plug in both of your case fans, but if you want to, you'll need to grab a splitter cable to turn that one plug into 2, [like this one on amazon.] (http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Tek-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417755776&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=fan+splitter) (Probably available more conveniently and cheaper at an electronics store, but I don't know what those stores are in the US [assuming you are] as I'm in the UK).
2 - Your motherboard's fan ports have 4 ports because they support PWM fans that can be speed controlled by software. Your fans don't have cables to support that, so they'll just run at 100% the whole time unless you remove them and replace the case fans with PWM case fans. Again, not a problem, won't harm them to run at 100% really, just might be a bit noisier than necessary. The plastic connector on the fans and the motherboard will likely only fit together one way around, if not, check the motherboard manual and that'll tell you which pin is the PWM pin, connect the cable so that that pin isn't connected to anything.
3 - Which audio cable? The one for the case audio ports? That should slide on as easily as the rest of the case cables for the power button etc, make sure you're putting it in the right place but it should go in fairly easily. Some parts do just take quite a push to get in at times.
4 - Your case might not have a firewire port, and nothing uses firewire these days anyway, you'll likely never use the port, don't worry about that.
5 - If the power cords melt, you've got bigger problems, things shouldn't get that hot in the case. Just tuck them out of the way somewhere, if you have cable management slots in the case on the less-open side, then pull them through there and just leave them out of the way.
I'm thinking of ordering this, what do you think?
https://www.amazon.ca/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482172370&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=fan+splitter
In the /r/buildapc community we sometimes use fan splitters. Take a look at those.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XKKQ/
Boom
Product page
Everything he said is spot on. I have 4 cheap Chinese printers and those are all the recommended upgrades regardless of the brand.
I recommend this power supply. It can provide 50% more power and has a cooling fan.
These mosfets have worked very well for me and lowered bed heating times significantly as well as make your printer a lot safer.
Personally I haven't had any issues with the bed connector, but maybe some epoxy or hot glue would keep the wires from moving around too much.
One of the best upgrades I did was to flash Marlin onto the board as the stock firmware is kind of crappy.
This also allows the use of a Inductive proximity sensor which makes leveling the bed significantly easier.
The bearings he recommended, the Drylin ones, will make the movements of your printer a little smoother and a lot quieter.
The belts stretch. The ones from China are rarely reinforced. I'm lazy so i just tighten them every so often. But it would be worthwhile to just start with the higher end reinforced belts.
That aside, once your printer is up and running and somewhat calibrated, head over to thingiverse and search for your printer. There are thousands of upgrades available.
Good luck!
Save some money and get a 30 amp PSU. I run up to 12 gridseed on each one. All you need is a power cord to cut up.
http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer-Project/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1397887222&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=30+amp+led+power
Use this guide for the wiring instructions.
https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=494625.msg5448809#msg5448809
I've got (one of these)[http://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464028524&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=12v+power+supply] powering my VHF radio and it seems to work well. It's easier to connect things to and supplies plenty of power for most anything. I also have on that powers my MTW MiniMax.
You will need to sacrifice an old PC power cord to hook it up though, so if you don't have one lying around, order one.
eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/
This one will work great, has more than enough power for you.
Your second point is just wrong. I've seen solid deals all over today on prime.
https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-GAME-ZERO-Special-Headset/dp/B0711SG5V6/ref=sr_1_33?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499790609&amp;sr=1-33
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-500GB-SATA-SDSSDHII-500G-G25/dp/B01N6Y18ZM/ref=sr_1_28?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499790609&amp;sr=1-28
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Prime-B350-Plus-Ryzen-Motherboard/dp/B06X416NJ1/ref=lp_15576689011_1_19?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499790568&amp;sr=1-19
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-1700X-Processor-YD170XBCAEWOF/dp/B06X3W9NGG/ref=lp_15576689011_1_8?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499790568&amp;sr=1-8
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=lp_15576689011_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499790568&amp;sr=1-2
I wouldn't take the risk with that one. I've never used air cooling so I'm not sure how sure it will keep it, but it is on the cheaper side and the heat sink is pretty small. If you're looking for cheap, good water cooling however, check out the Corsair H100
If that's over your budget, I wouldn't worry too much about over clocking it.. as it won't really effect whether or not you bottle neck.
My girlfriend told me that at the end of the day she will buy everything in my amazon cart up to 300 dollars...
But I didn't really have anything I needed or even wanted all that bad.. Took me all day to find stuff lol.
So I got
Corsair Hydro Series H100i v2 $97
JD Fenix Limited Edition Xbox One Wireless Controller $55
Microsoft Xbox Wireless Adapter for Windows $21
Xbox One Play and Charge Kit $24
SanDisk 128GB Flash Drive $32
APC 11-Outlet Surge Protector $35
APC 8-Outlet Surge Protector $25
10 Nylon Lanyards for Small Electronic Devices $4
Still have 8 dollars left over haha.
> I came to the realization that the PCI slots don't all have the same bandwidth (so I'm hoping this discovery may be a good thing)
It is! You'll now be able to use your SLI more efficiently. Just make sure there's no other damage to the board, but from what you said it seems ok now.
>Now, the big question for me: are these video cards too close together?.
Yeah, the top one is blowing hot air directly onto the PCB of the other one, hindering the top one's cooling and cooking the other. Look into getting them watercooled. I would stop using SLI until then if I were you.
>And a follow-up question: does anyone know of a better CPU fan than this.
Yes.
BONUS
This case is pretty much wife-proof especially if you swap out it's mesh top panel for a plexiglass one. Those are kinda hard to find but not impossible. Coolermaster may sell them directly.
Graphics Card mil jaayega.
https://www.amazon.in/dp/B01GRRRW0A/
In fact, you can get the cooling system that I bought too
https://www.amazon.in/dp/B019EXSSBG/
Motherboard
https://www.amazon.in/dp/B012NH1MCM/
CPU
http://www.amazon.in/Intel-BX80662I76700K-Socket-LGA1151-Processor/dp/B010T6DQTQ
PSU
https://www.amazon.in/dp/B015Q7F4WA/
Case
https://www.amazon.in/dp/B00LA6WXEO/
Sirf mere RAM nahi mile. Gskill Ripjaws (32gb) 2 x 16. Baaki sab mil gaya India mein.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $308.89 @ B&H
CPU Cooler | Corsair - H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $84.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | MSI - Z270 TOMAHAWK ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $111.98 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $121.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial - MX300 525GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $159.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $66.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Hybrid Gaming Video Card | $689.99 @ Amazon
Case | Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400S TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case | $99.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $97.49 @ OutletPC
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Monitor | Dell - S2716DG 27.0" 2560x1440 144Hz Monitor | $449.99 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Corsair - K95 RGB PLATINUM Wired Gaming Keyboard | $169.99 @ Amazon
Mouse | Razer - Naga Hex V2 Wired Laser Mouse | $39.99 @ Best Buy
Speakers | Logitech - Z333 40W 2.1ch Speakers | $59.99 @ Amazon
Other| Logitech C922 Pro Stream Webcam| $100.00
Other| Logitech G233 Gaming Headset| $80.00
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2771.93
| Mail-in rebates | -$40.00
| Total | $2731.93
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-11 17:19 EDT-0400 |
Over $700 on a 1080 is insane. Get the hybrid: water cooled and air cooled, blower will work as an exhaust as well.
I'm not a Cryorig fan and their customer service is HORRENDOUS. You can get a great AIO cpu cooler right now with prime sales (id legit get it now).
Changed to a nice quite tempered glass case that has light effects. they have different colors so take your pic on newegg.
1440p 144hz monitor w/ gsync
different speakers to save some money, still pretty good quality for 2.1
you can save ~$60 on your SSD if you make it the 260gb one.
you can save ~$40 on your webcam by getting the c920. the c922 is okay for cutting out the background, but I feel youre better off sitting in front of a green screen personally.
I believe H100i V2 is the best right now from Corsair.
It is compatible. Scroll down to the bottom
You're on about hardline. As its impossible to mess up installing liquid cooling.
r4 what. Do you mean am4 socket or r4 define case
Corsair's 240mm cooler: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CW-9060025-WW-Extreme-Performance-Liquid/dp/B019EXSSBG
Monitors
>Dell UltraSharp 27" 4k "HDR" (sooo beautiful)
Acer KG240 24" 144hz
Speakers
>
Fluance SX6BK (Requires Amp/Stereo for power
PC
>NZXT ELITE
GTX 1060
Samsung 250 EVO
Corsair 650W
EVGA 16GB
i5 7600K @ 4.8GHZ
Corsair H100
seagate 2tb
Peripherals
>Razer Blackwidow Ultimate OG (2011 - cherry mx blues)
Razer Deathadder
Corsair Mouse Mat
Gamecube Controller
Mayflash Adapter
Desk
>2 Ikea Linnmon Table Tops 78" and 39"
Ikea Adjustable Legs
Ikea Shelf (used as 1 leg for smaller corner table)
Merax Racing Chair ($163)
ART
>
(FROM LEFT TO RIGHT)
photo shot on canon 6d and sigma art 24mm
my instagram
You can buy what is called a "closed loop" system, which is basically a factory sealed water cooling block and radiator. They're not as sexy looking as a custom loop like this, but they are a lot safer for folks new to liquid cooling, or for those who don't want the hassle but want the benefits, or like in my case - It's not in a case where it's even really visible, so I was only really concerned with performance, not appearance.
Here is what I use, which happens to be one of the more popular closed loop liquid cooling solutions. Dead simple to install, and works like a champ.
$102.99
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B019EXSSBG/
I would get this CPU cooler. With the case you picked (good case) it should fit in there pretty easily.
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478638560&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=corsair+h100i+gtx
And this PSU I would get this
https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-CX450M-BRONZE-Haswell-Modular/dp/B01B72VXE6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478638780&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=corsair+psu+450w
What about GPU? Which do you want? 1070?
You're not wrong as far as the cooling goes, this thing needs a good cooler only if you overclock though, which you shouldn't do until later in it's lifespan for the extra horsepower. I'm using a hyper 212 evo for stock clock and it's fine. But if you look at some good AIO water coolers, they're around 100 which is super close to your nocua air cooler's price.
Overclocking + Delid thing all depends on your silicon lottery. You may not need to delid.
Your 8600k is not a bad buy, but when you compare prices, the deal microcenter offers a 300$ 8700k + $30 off mobo. That comes out to be basically the same price you're paying for an 8600k. The 8700k will last you longer as well. Just some food for thought.
Yeah just check the seller information list and you will see that both of those cheap sellers are new accounts and a scam
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/offer-listing/B019EXSSBG/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=new
Corsair H100i V2 £68.58 after discount
Or
NZXT Kraken X52 £97.15
Nowadays they’re very simple. Almost plug and play.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019EXSSBG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527516236&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=corsair+h100i+v2&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=410fpLTJM-L&amp;ref=plSrch
Corsair h100i it’s not like the old modular systems where you needed a reservoir, the blocks, and the tubes. Although I’m sure you could go that route but it doesn’t sound like you’re trying to do anything that crazy. The h100 is just a cpu block with two big ol fans and coolant.
tl;dr: is the premium price of the GTX 1060 6gb worth it over the GTX 1060 3gb?
edited for clarity
i built a pc last march on a z170 motherboard and an i5 6600k, but i recycled my video card from my previous build. it is a 2gb radeon 7870 that i bought back in april of 2013, so... pretty ready for an upgrade? the primary reason that i'm looking to upgrade is that i'm finally pulling the trigger in water cooling and i want a card that i can find a water block for. EKWB offered one for my current card but they no longer do.
i think i have decided on the GTX 1060 either in the 3gb version (currently $200) or the 6gb version (currently $260). I'd like to keep it under $250 but if i'm really going to see a big enough performance benefit with 6gb over 3gb i'll adjust the 'budget' upwards by $10.
these days i am primarily concerned with pushing multiple monitors, and i play both WoW and FFXIV. the card is still doing me pretty good, so if there's a good reason to hold off for awhile, i could just shelf the idea.
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-GAMING-Support-06G-P4-6163-KR/dp/B01IPVSLTC/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524965038&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=gtx+1060+6gb or if you want to pay a little extra for the dual fans: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125879&amp;cm_re=gtx_1060_6gb-_-14-125-879-_-Product but yeah definitely get a 1060 6gb
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IEKYD5U
I got this on Feb 1, direct from Amazon for $340.
Also this:
www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-GAMING-Support-06G-P4-6163-KR/dp/B01IPVSLTC/
I’d say the best bang for your buck is this:
EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 SC GAMING, ACX 2.0 (Single Fan), 6GB GDDR5, DX12 OSD Support (PXOC), 06G-P4-6163-KR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IPVSLTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TQIVBbT959D9F
It runs blackout well on high for me at least
Not necessarily. I've had some big cards before, but there are good compact single fan cards. Consider your needs, look at the card's measurements, check PCPartPicker compatibility, or ask around. I got a Corsair Carbide 400R a few years ago, thinking I might try SLI. I never did and no longer plan to, and while it's a great case, I now wish I picked something a bit smaller. YMMV, though!
I'm considering buying a GTX 1060 in the next few days. I'm currently running an i5-2500k at 4.2 GHz with a 6950 1GB (lol).
Should I go with the 3GB or 6GB model? I'm leaning toward the 6GB. This EVGA one, specifically. When I bought my 6950 in 2011, I chose 1GB over the 2GB version and ended up regretting it, so I'd like to avoid that this time. Budget isn't a huge concern.
There is a slightly cheaper GPU on Amazon if you're looking to save a bit and you have prime. Also LTT has a good video on RAM speeds right here, concluding that higher ram speeds result in only a tiny performance increase.
https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-06G-P4-6163-KR/dp/B01IPVSLTC/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482773752&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=gtx+1060+6gb+evga
I'm looking to upgrade my GTX 660 Ti to this card. I have Amazon Prime so I save a few bucks shipping. I was hesitant going from a full size card to this mini but I can't seem to find anything bad about this card after doing a bit of research. Thoughts? Is that an ok price?
By all means build it if that's something you think you'd enjoy but there's no shame in buying either. I've always built but I don't look down on anyone that uses a prebuilt machine. I might give them shit at lans but it's never anything serious.
Right now is a great time for buying GPUs without breaking your wallet. You can pick up a 1060 for pretty cheap which will probably run everything you'd want to play no problem. There's also a 3GB version if you're on a budget but for the price difference I'd go 6GB if possible.
I'm just talking in general here and didn't check all of the specs on the two desktops you listed. I'd assume those desktops have a PCI-E slot and the power to run that card but don't take my word for it. Make sure to research before buying obviously.
> https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-06G-P4-6163-KR/dp/B01IPVSLTC
Yeah that looks smaller, put it in pcpartpicker and if there's no compatibility warnings then you're fine. It wasn't even a major issue, just a bit of a pain
https://www.amazon.com/ASRock-AB350-PRO4-ATX-Motherboard/dp/B06WWF165R
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-GAMING-Support-06G-P4-6163-KR/dp/B01IPVSLTC
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B07B41WS48
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-GAMING-Support-06G-P4-6163-KR/dp/B01IPVSLTC/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526083889&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=1060+6gb
https://www.amazon.com/Patriot-Memory-3000MHz-Channel-PV48G300C6K/dp/B0157UPYZ8/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526083935&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=8gb+ddr4+3000mhz+ram
swap out the ram and gpu for these two and you should be good. the 1060 6gb will play any game 1080p 60fps + and the ram has faster memory clock which ryzen does well with.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IPVSLTC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483837228&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=superclocked+gtx+1060&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51rdJo6WqmL&amp;ref=plSrch here you go. Even a guide on it somewhere on the internet.
Canadian dollars, but this is the one I'd get if if buying new, (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01IPVSLTC/) but Im actually really hoping to find a used one. 1070s are too pricey to be practical IMO. I might use an 1030 until the 1100s are released to see of the price of the current ones come down.
The real practical side on me is trying to talk me into a 2400G APU since I'm not a serious gamer.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | Purchased For $0.00
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $29.49 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock Z170M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard | $127.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $64.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Sandisk Z400s 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $70.98 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $74.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB SC GAMING Video Card | $259.99
Case | Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case | $79.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Cooler Master 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $108.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Asus VX248H 24.0" 60Hz Monitor | $139.99 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Cooler Master OCTANE Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse | $49.95 @ B&H
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $995.35
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-21 09:25 EDT-0400 |
Build Link: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/CMkFtJ
You can get the GTX 1060 in this build from Amazon or Newegg when it's in stock.
Current shopping cart:
Graphics - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IPVSLTC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1D9VA4FDB43MN&amp;psc=1
Motherboard - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0131GA4WI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&amp;psc=1
Processro - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRRPPQS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_9?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
SSSD - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F9G414U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
RAM - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DPSQPF2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
Case - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DPSQPF2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
Power - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017HA3SQ8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=A2I4D0WO1JEMBA&amp;psc=1
Harddrive - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013QFRS2S/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
SECTION | CONTENT
:--|:--
Title | GTX 1060 - 3GB vs 6GB - Which should you buy?
Description | 3GB vs 6GB - There are two types of GTX 1060 cards, which should you buy? 3GB EVGA SC - Amazon - http://amzn.to/2dLEegc --- NewEgg - http://bit.ly/2doDGvx 6GB EVGA SC - Amazon - http://amzn.to/2dDcL1Y --- NewEgg - http://bit.ly/2dFrxnP This video is all about which GTX 1060 to buy, 3GB or 6GB. To figure out if you should buy a 1060, watch my other videos first: Links to my other GTX 1060 Videos: EVGA GTX 1060 3GB - https://youtu.be/fhzMHO8gMzI EVGA GTX 1060 6GB - https://youtu.be/mNvovtIpCQM ...
Length | 0:26:20
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I got it for 260$ from Amazon.com Total cost was 320$ for me including taxes+shipping.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IPVSLTC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Well I'm sure that is part of my problem I'll update it in a moment.
One of the grouping I'm starting to look at is
Processor I7
Mother Board
Ram
GPU If I can't do the Ti depending on price.
Amazon has some in stock right now.
Amazon currently has the 7600k in stock.
And the 7700K
Sim Racing Hardware:
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Sim Racing Rig:
(both are 80/20-based and 4 Play Racing is the best deal for Americans):
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PC:
(some of these prices may have changed)
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Sims (all below support triple monitors and VR headsets):
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Not listed:
Your GPU is pretty good to run BDO , if you want to maximize your system i recommend upgrading your CPU, here are 2 CPU's i recommend for BDO and other CPU intensive games.
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Desktop-Processor-i7-7700K-BX80677I77700K/dp/B01MXSI216/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485914037&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=i7+6700k
i7-7700K
or
i5-6600
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Skylake-Desktop-Processor-BX80662I56600K/dp/B012M8M7TY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485914118&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=i5+6600k
BAD DEAL. YOU CAN GET YOUR OWN 7700k ON AMAZON AND GET A SNACK WITH IT.
Sure you can, long as you have reference price. Like this one
I lived in both Asia and North America. The price of computer component really doesn't differ that much. It is mostly Europe and Australia that are different.
There is one problem I'm seeing, which is that your MOBO is for overclocking, but your CPU isnt, so I suggest that you get the i7-7700k (https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Desktop-Processor-i7-7700K-BX80677I77700K/dp/B01MXSI216/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501567034&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=i7+7700k) and put a nice cooler on there, like the NZXT Kraken if you like pretty lights and such, or any other AIO cooler probably. Also, the most recent system memory is DDR4 and DDR5 is only for GPU's right now (technically GDDR5 but who cares). Another concern is storage, you didn't mention that, and I'm not sure but that PSU might not have enough wattage, I'm not suure, correct me if I'm wrong. Also as a last note, it might be comfort more than anything at this point but it might be a good idea to get 8 more gigs of RAM, but Corsair has some of the best RAM modules.
Honestly a laptop is your bottleneck. Build your own with these parts or near these parts this is a baseline:
|Component|Title|Price|
|:-|:-|:-|
|CPU|Core i7 7700K|$343 (Amazon US)|
|GPU 1|MSI RTX 2060 Super Gaming X|$409 (Amazon US)|
|RAM 1|(2x8GB) G.Skill Ripjaws V 3200|$76 (Amazon US)|
|Motherboard|MSI MPG Z390M Gaming Edge|$149 (Amazon US)|
|Storage 1|Empty Storage|$0 (Amazon US)|
|Power Supply|Empty Powersupply|$0 (Amazon US)|
|Case|Empty Case|$0 (Amazon US)|
|Monitor 1|Empty Monitor|$0 (Amazon US)|
| | | |
|Total Price|$977| |
|Generated by BuildCores|BuildCores for iOS|BuildCores for Android|
Also $295 on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Desktop-Processor-i7-7700K-BX80677I77700K/dp/B01MXSI216
Really struggling to decide if I should get this or ryzen 1700
When trying to decide on what power your PC needs a good website to use is http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/ - it'll give you a general idea since I get confused with all the "i7/i5/i3 XXXX gen X" nonsense too.
That'll build you a tower. Then you just need external components. Monitor, keyboard, mouse, headset, chair, desk, etc. Depending on what you have available and stuff it can vary so I'll let you price out that stuff.
$1,358 pre-taxes if you go with i7 8700k, and GTX 1060 3 GB. For the tower. Taxes in, plus all the other components you're still looking at pushing close to $2000. That's CND I think. If you do a little shopping around you might get a decent deal on a few items and look into different price points between AMD and Intel if you choose their Board/Chip/GPU combos.
AMD Ryzen 5 3600 6-core, 12-Thread Unlocked Desktop Processor with Wraith Stealth Cooler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07STGGQ18/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6-EiDb8SQP328
Not available yet. I'd keep refreshing it.
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-3600-12-Thread-Processor/dp/B07STGGQ18/
http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:https://www.amazon.de/AMD-Ryzen-3600-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07STGGQ18
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Here you go. Probably overpriced though, only the 3900x and 3700x were making sense for the prices so far IMO.
What's the usage? Is this a budget build? How much RAM you need? is your case ATX or mATX?
For CPU, only 3600 will fit your budget out of the decent ones. Any lower and you'd be stepping into APU territory for low-budget builds.
Example combo: [3600] (https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-3600-12-Thread-Processor/dp/B07STGGQ18) ($195) + 16 GB RAM ($78) + B450 Tomahawk ($115) = $388.
This is US$ right, not Canadian or Australian?
Toss that 9400F and get a Ryzen 3600, replace the board with an MSI B450 gaming plus. Toss the 1660ti and get an RX 5700 instead. Ditch the Sata SSD and get an Intel 660p 1tb NVMe.
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-3600-12-Thread-Processor/dp/B07STGGQ18 - Ryzen 3600
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Performance-Crossfire-Motherboard-B450/dp/B07F83RVTC - MSI B450 gaming plus [Note: See bios flashback plus in the manual and update before installing a 3600]
https://www.amazon.com/Sapphire-Radeon-GDDR6-Triple-Graphics/dp/B07TFRMJXH/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rx+5700&qid=1567642631&s=electronics&sr=1-3 - Radeon RX 5700
https://www.newegg.com/intel-660p-series-1tb/p/N82E16820167462 - Intel 660p
It won't add much to the cost and you will get double the performance.
Hey thanks for replying. Ill for sure make certain that my ram is seated correctly to avoid that major head ache. The cpu as I understand at least from Amazon includes a fan for it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07STGGQ18/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_sR3MDb0KYX10C
And it seems it comes with thermal paste as well so I don't need to buy a whole tube of it. I play a lot of games though, stuff like total war and Arma 3 but mostly strategy games. I'm looking to be able to play these max with no frame dips and have room to grow into. Hoping my cpu is plenty strong enough to last a few years.
Also you can get a Ryzen 5 3600 for not much more, it matches the 2700 in multithread and smokes it in single thread.
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-3600-12-Thread-Processor/dp/B07STGGQ18/ref=zg_bs_229189_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XWFTSYJTEPYW6P7SP7GB
Here's a faster and cheaper memory kit:
https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-16gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820231941
If the price difference is only $10 keep the 3600X. The performance difference in gaming and most task is so small that 3600X is hard to recommend if it $20 or more than the 3600. TechSpot following back on MSRP pricing
>Wrap Up
>
>Is the Ryzen 5 3600X worth purchasing over the 3600? Not at all. Other than to improve AMD’s margins there’s absolutely no reason for the 3600X to exist. Yes, you get a better cooler out of the box, but you’re paying $40 more for that cooler and it’s simply not worth that kind of price premium, $10 sure, but not much more than that.
>
>Rather than waste $40 on the 3600X, get the vanilla 3600 and if you want to reduce the operating volume and squeeze a tiny bit more performance out of the Ryzen 5 processor, grab something like the Cooler Master 212 Black for $30.
Great setup man, only thing I can recommend is switching out that 3600 with a 3600x, as there’s a discount on the 3600x, making it only $7 more than the regular 3600, which is definitely a steal
3600: https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-3600-12-Thread-Processor/dp/B07STGGQ18
3600x: https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-3600X-12-Thread-Processor/dp/B07SQBFN2D
You can get the R5 3600 on Amazon for 189.99 right now.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/B07STGGQ18/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=new
It's almost 40 quid cheaper than the i5 9600K.
Hoping for a bit of quick advice. Building my first gaming PC - mostly for 1080p @ 60Hz but hoping to future-proof - or at least reduce big spends in the near future
Which is better?
AMD Ryzen 5 3600 Processor (6C/12T, 35MB Cache, 4.2 GHz Max Boost) & MSI B450M MORTAR MAX Motherboard 'mATX, AM4, DDR4, LAN, USB 3.2 Gen2, TYPE-C, M.2, Mystic Light Sync, HDMI, DisplayPort, AMD RYZEN 1st, 2nd and 3rd Gen Ready' (£296)
or
ASUS TUF AMD B450 PRO GAMING Durable ATX Motherboard + AMD RYZEN 7 2700X Processor (£288)
Thanks!
Ships from and sold by United_Fashions Store ... so best of luck with that.
Same guys that have the 3600 for cheap, so not really a wise choice - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07STGGQ18/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/offer-listing/B07STGGQ18
Would you hit it? Ryzen 5 3600 for 199$ on Amazon with free shipping, but its a new vendor with no feedback yet.
Also... no tax.
You really don't want to get CX PSU.
Source
This one would be way better and also currently around the same price.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKDETOW
PCPartpicker link
You should not be using a CX for a decently high end build like this. [Much better] (http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Crossfire-Warranty-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B00IKDETOW)
And are you willing to get a 390 over the 970? Performance between the two cards are almost the same but the 390 has more VRAM, allowing for higher textures and 1440p will be a little smoother.
I'd recommend EVGA. I've read/heard nothing but good things, been using mine for about a year now and zero issues. Corsair is also great stuff. Never had a bad experience.
What I have: link
Rule of thumb:
Any mother that has a Z like a Z97 is meant for overclocking whereas H series are just standard.
Like I said I built a pic last weekend with an i5 4690 and an ASRock H97 Pro4 and it went flawless so you wouldn't be disappointed there.
Edit: plus it would match your RAM.
Second edit: you might be pushing it with 450watt and a r9 380. If you can afford it, I can recommend the EVGA G2 series enough. Top tier in terms of quality and fully modular so cable management is a breeze. I would look for other builds and see if anyone has gone 450watt with that video cards.
Power supply recommendation:
EVGA 220-G2-0550-Y1 80 PLUS GOLD 550W ECO Mode Fully Modular NVIDIA SLI Ready and Crossfire Support Continuous Power Supply http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=17-438-053
Another edit:
Even better, the 750watt version of the G2 is the same price as the 550watt version on Amazon.
EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G2 80+ GOLD, 750W ECO Mode Fully Modular NVIDIA SLI and Crossfire Ready 10 Year Warranty Power Supply 220-G2-0750-XR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKDETOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_qsyHwb8X08VYH
I have the gigabyte z170 gaming 7 and it is a fantastic board!! It is very good looking and has every feature I would need in my mobo. The only bad thing about these motherboards are the UEFI BIOS it is just okay nothing fancy or amazing and easy to move around with so since u have a windowed case Id go for what you find more pleasing to look at and matches with your build! Other than that I would get a different power supply an evga gs/g2 psu will do you just fine and there is one on sale right now at amazon! http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Crossfire-Warranty-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B00IKDETOW
Another thing you may consider is getting an r9 390 unless you are set on nvidia the 390 will be a smarter buy (whichever one is cheaper is better but if they are both the same price the 390 is a better buy).
The samsung evo 850 is also cheaper than that SSD
Having an extra 4-pin atx connector won't give you any issues as you'll only need the 8 pin for your CPU connection.
If you're looking for a good gold psu then something like these would be good:
https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-RM750x-Certified-Modular-Supply/dp/B079HGN5QS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=750w+psu&amp;qid=1572035995&amp;sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Supernova-Modular-Warranty-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B00IKDETOW/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=750w+psu&amp;qid=1572036155&amp;sr=8-4
The thermaltake one is probably fine too, but I don't know a whole lot about the quality of their psus.
I'd personally pay 10 dollars more and get the SuperNOVA 750 G2, but only because I've made good experiences with it. The GS should be an excellent choice too, and the price is also good. The G2 series is based on the Super Flower Leadex platform, while the GS series is based on a Sea Sonic platform. Both are well-known for their reliability.
Amazon has the 750w at $109 with a $10 MIR, which brings it down to $99.
Link
Yeah.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IKDETOW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I installed it before replacing the new GPU.
With the chassis you chose, and the socket, these coolers will work (I have the same case and similar socket): https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16835608042
Technically, the 120mm version of that cooler will fit, but only if you get lucky. The top of the 120mm cooler has heat pipes that have been crimped off and sealed. If one of those heat pipe crimps is too high, you wont be able to close the lid on the chassis (speaking from experience).
Don't skimp on power, it is the lifeblood of the system. Get something like this instead: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IKDETOW The link you provided for the Xeons is for the RAM, so I don't know how much power consumption you will have, or how many drives you wish to spin up. The 750w power supply will be sufficient, and give you some headroom in case you want to fill all 15 drives bays, 2x HBA cards, and a 10g NIC later down the road. .
Word of warning on the case; it's awesome for the price, but has ZERO cable management. It will be tough to have a neat build. Also, the weight of the case by itself, is enough to bend/bow the long side of the case. Always properly support the case when you pick it up. Aaaaaaaaannd, the fans are absolute trash.
Budget wise, if you have too choose, spend more on the power supply than the coolers.
Good luck!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IKDETOW?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Also on Amazon
EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G2, 80+ GOLD 650W, Fully Modular, EVGA ECO Mode, 7 Year Warranty, Includes FREE Power On Self Tester, Power Supply 220-G2-0650-Y1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0106RDIN2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_FOMBybNKG0N24
That's what I got
S340 Elite Matte Black is my case. I wanted to do H440 because it matches my green look, (my favorite colour) but it was sold out. Might have been discontinued.
I am using a MSI Z170A board with 8gb Ram (will get more, didn't feel like spending so much yet)
[Gigabyte 1080 Windforce] (https://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD#kf)
250 GB SSD
650 W PSU
i5 7500
Using my old evo 212 cooler until I get that cooler you have for your build.
Your blueprint blows my computer out of the water but mine does the job.
and two 1 TB drive I had from my old build (I don't normally store so much stuff. I uninstall games I stop playing)
I would really advise against getting that overpriced motherboard. Save yourself $150, get the Z170-A or similarly priced mobo, and put that towards a GTX 1070, which is much more suitable for 1440p than the 480. I'd also get this PSU:
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Supply-220-G2-0650-Y1/dp/B0106RDIN2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468211327&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=evga+650W+g2
It is more efficient, higher wattage, fully modular, and cheaper than your current pick (plus, dat 10 year EVGA warranty doe). That list is fine if you want, I'm just offering more efficient suggestions. I doubt you need all those features with the Deluxe
Thanks! Going with the EVGA Supernova G2
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G2-0650-Y1/dp/B0106RDIN2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474315941&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=evga+supernova+g2
-1070/7700 is a great combo. I went for the 7600k and wish I spent the $100 or so more on the 7700. You'll be able to play 90% of everything at max settings and push 100+ FPS. The z270 series mobo's are sweet. You may need to do xmp to get the RAM to work @2400.
-I don't know if it's available by you but this motherboard comes with a free wifi/bluetooth card.
-I was looking at the Noctua fan, decided against it as it looked like a pain in the ass to install. Cryorig H7 is straight forward and relatively quiet (once I adjusted fan curves)
-Consider upgrading the PSU to a gold version. EVGA makes some very nice units like this which is modular, so cables are easier to work with.
Other than that, everything is solid; I'd maybe upgrade the SSD to an M.2 NVME for faster boot speeds, etc, but that's just me.
Check out https://pcpartpicker.com/ It's a great utility to let you know if everything is compatible, while also showing links for pricing.
EVGA Supernova [G2] (https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G2-0650-Y1/dp/B0106RDIN2) or [G3] (https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0650-Y1/dp/B01LYGFRL6)
Seasonic [X Series] (https://www.amazon.com/SeaSonic-650W-Power-Supply-SS-650KM3/dp/B002VA7RPS)
Does this include cables? The Jet site is skimp on information but the Amazon page shows them as included.
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G2-0650-Y1/dp/B0106RDIN2 can never go wrong with this one
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Supernova-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0750-X1/dp/B0106RDIN2/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=EVGA%2Bsupernova&qid=1556152662&s=electronics&sr=1-2&th=1
I'd say go for this one instead. The Supernova G series PSUs are EVGA's high quality offerings.
It's not really a good PSU for the price.
Seasonic Focus Gold 550W | 650W
EVGA G2 550W | 650W
Corsair TXM 550W | 650W
for your builds:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0106RDIN2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1466486731&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=evga+650w&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51TvpBWze3L&amp;ref=plSrch
Deal of the day.
Deal of the day.
Good sir,
I come as the wallet fairy.
You best be buying this evga g2 650 watt for 69.99:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0106RDIN2/ref=br_prlt_slcty_pdt-3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&amp;amp;pf_rd_r=41TPHFJBRWNK12H5BRR0&amp;amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;amp;pf_rd_p=3147b25c-c2c4-4e77-9e4b-4ebb8a3db666&amp;amp;pf_rd_i=13459453011
Im buying everything from amazon just because of the one day delivery convince, I added this Power supply
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0106RDIN2/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB
This motherboard
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06WVFFXXL/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB
Downgraded to 1060
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01JHQT1SE/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB
Idk what to choose for the memory and same thing for the fan idk if 140mm or 120mm makes a big difference. I cant send a wishlist link because it shortened and it wont let me post on the sub
this is just the ssd and the cpu
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07B41WS48/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_6?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01K8A2A0E/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_7?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A2UXO5LPTDY3LN
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Boxed-I7-6700K-Processor-BX80662I76700K/dp/B012M8LXQW/ref=pd_lpo_147_bs_t_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=TJPGJTJ0MHW0ZNMBBNEZ this seems like a rly good price to me ? am i wrong ?
How do you report a scammer on amazon?
SCAM ALERT:
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B012M8LXQW/?tag=pcp0f-20&amp;ref_=nav_signin&amp;
This person is trying to sell a brand new 6700k for $260; look at his user name and the fact that he has no reviews. But there's no "report seller" button like there is on ebay
For the prcoessor do you think I should just stick with Skylake then? this version would work with the build just fine.
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Unlocked-Skylake-Processor-BX80662I76700K/dp/B012M8LXQW/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486512480&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr1&amp;keywords=I7+7000k+cpu
I'll be swapping to the Cryorig H7 it looks solid and doesn't look to have any of the mounting issues or difficulties of the Hyper 212 evo.
I'm going to stick with the 850 evo m.2. Its about the same price as other SSDs I could get.
I appreciate the suggestions. Also Would you swap motherboards or just stick with Skylake? I feel like I wouldn't notice the differences in speed with what I'll be using it for.
This is Canadian pricing, not USD. Comparing currency value, buying it for $309 USD would be equivalent to someone in Canada buying it for $404.56 CAD. Amazon Canada lists a 6700k for $409.99 CAD, so $369.99 CAD is a good deal for this CPU in Canada
EDIT: This is also listed on Newegg Canada for $448.99 CAD.
You can often get them on Amazon for $420. Just keep refreshing the page every few hours. When they come back for $420, they don't last long, but they return again soon.
Combine that with a Chase Freedom Visa card if you have one for 10% cash back. Even after taxes, it got me a chip for about $400. Not MRSP, but far better than other vendors (since I am nowhere near a Microcenter). I even got it delivered in under a week (and this was earlier this month, so it's still relevant).
For £420, you can buy an i7-4790K and another Sabertooth.
edit: for £500, an i7-6700K with its Sabertooth Z170 version. But you'll also need DDR4 RAM.
http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Boxed-I7-6700K-Processor-BX80662I76700K/dp/B012M8LXQW/ref=pd_sim_147_3?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41Gmdr3n9bL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR139%2C160_&amp;refRID=0B1C3WGP1MCTWNTYCY62
Skylake powerful i7 cpu
http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-LGA1151-Motherboard-GA-Z170X-GAMING-G1/dp/B012IBPJKY/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451282056&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=motherboards&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A2057458011%2Cp_36%3A1253507011
This motherboard fits the cpu and also can be used for sli
If at any point this gets too expensive dont hesitate to ask for tips. When you want the best, it adds up.
Looks alright. I wouldn't reccomend Ryzen chips. I would probably get something more like an i7 6700k or the 6700 (which is around $20 cheaper if you can't justify the price) for gaming. If you end up choosing an Intel CPU you'll have to choose a different Mobo as well but there are lots of good ones.
I'd reccomend getting an entry level 144Hz Screen. If you can stretch to something like this I would seriously reccomend it, though it's not going to hurt you if you don't. I think it was Jake from LG Evil that made T500 early in the game on a Mac Book running OW in wine.
I personally don't like any gaming Headsets other than the HyperX Clouds. There is a huge quality difference between them and any other "gaming" headsets I have used.
As far as mice and keyboards, I would probably just buy a nice cheap Keyboard to begin with because there are no benefits really to having a good keyboard if you're on a budget. A mouse is kinda personal, I use a Steel Series Rival 100 but am a palm style user and am completely arm aim. It's a good cheap mouse but you may want something else if your grip style is different. My brother plays claw and doesn't mind it though.
Parts and gear you should prioritise for Overwatch are: Good GPU. 6GB 1060s are plenty for overwatch unless you want to be running the game at consistently over 240FPS (here's Taimou's settings btw. These will help with you configuring your settings for Overwatch). A fast CPU (Overwatch can be very CPU dependant). SSDs are kinda nice and fairly cheap. If you have a SSD btw you're at a direct benefit to most other players because you load in matches faster and can therefore instalock first, if that's your thing. :P Monitors are the most important peripheral by far in my opinion, followed closely by mice. If you're not getting a 144Hz screen now, you'll want one eventually (you won't need one but you'll want one). The only other peripheral that is important for Overwatch specifically is a mouse. This is one of those what suits your style things and there's no real correct answer but for First Person Shooters you usually want a nice light fast mouse. Ideally with 2 buttons on the side of the mouse for binding melee and voice. Just don't get a Razer and you'll be fine.
I'd probably ask on /r/buildapc as well because they'll probably give you better advice than this sub will. Best of luck dude with your transition to PC. Hope this helps.
Edit: oh and Mousepad! In the beginning I'd reccomend a nice control style mouse pad for getting used to using a mouse for aiming. I can't reccomend you any though because I have always used the mats that come in WoW TCG boxes since a family member has heaps of them and I've never used any other control style mats. The bigger the better.
I'm a tad confused, is this a new system build or do you already have the CPU and motherboard? If you already have the CPU/motherboard definitely don't upgrade to Skylake, just get a 4790k if you're looking for an upgrade.
If the above is true and you already have the CPU/mobo disregard this. Now, if you are doing a new build I would really recommend getting a Skylake CPU. While Haswell is still a very powerful and viable generation, there are no more upgrades beyond the 4790k so it will go obsolete faster than Skylake, as Kaby Lake and Cannon Lake are yet to be released for the Skylake generation. As for Haswell outperforming their Skylake counterparts, the i5-6600k and the i5-4690k perform basically the same with the 6600k being slightly better (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gs2RKt0MS9w). They also cost pretty much the same (6600K: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012M8M7TY/?tag=pcpapi-20 and the 4690k: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Core-i5-4690K-Processor-BX80646I54690K/dp/B00KPRWB9G/).
For the i7-4790k and the i7-6700k, again they perform more or less the same with the 6700k being slightly better (https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Haswell-vs-Skylake-S-i7-4790K-vs-i7-6700K-641/). As for cost, again they cost about the same (4790k: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-4790K-Processor-Cache-BX80646I74790K/dp/B00KPRWAX8 and the 6700k: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Unlocked-Skylake-Processor-BX80662I76700K/dp/B012M8LXQW). Since the release of Skylake, 1151 motherboards and DDR4 RAM have come down in price and more or less equal in price when compared to 1150 motherboard and DDR3 RAM.
happens within 5-10 seconds for me.
using this setup:
I have my res scaled at 150%, all settings on Ultra. GPU limit off. Nvidia Control panel I have all the settings for BF1 set to override to the highest setting if possible.
> BenQ XL2720Z @ 1920 x 1080
> OP: Windows 7 64-bit
> CPU: Intel Core i7 6700K @ 4.00GHz (No Overclock)
> RAM: 16GB Corsair DDR3 @ no clue... (2 x 8 GB)
> GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 FTW (No Overclock) 08G-P4-6286-KR
> DISC: Samsung 850 EVO 1TB
>I currently have the Intel Core i7 950 3.07GHz (Bloomfield) (https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-950-Socket-LGA1366-Processor/dp/B002A6G3V2)
I did bit of digging and it seems that you're right, even though Lightroom is capable of using multiple cores, it seems that it's not quite optimized properly.
I also have to do video editing, but not as much as stills.
This i7-6700 (https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Unlocked-Skylake-Processor-BX80662I76700K/dp/B012M8LXQW) looks like the best option at the moment. An overclocking mobo seems appealing as well, but I would need to upgrade my cooling system as well.
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Currently $103 New on Amazon for the Newest version (V2)
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B019EXSSBG
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484706868&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=AIO+cooler i would say something like that would do the job, but then again, are you even planning to overclock that cpu ? cuz if not you would be okay with stock cooler or atleast something like evo 212 where you would save up 70usd ish .
O dear god.
Got a picture of the inside of the case?Intel states that the max safe temp is 103C. You should be worried prob after 90c. Stock cooler? #yesIf yes buy new one. On a budget? Hyper 212 EVO if not grab a Corsair pre filled water cooler like an H60 or better H100i
I'd say a Noctua air cooler would be great to cool and minimally overclock the i7. If you plan to seriously overclock it, get liquid cooler to get that extra performance boost whenever you are using video editing software.
PS You don't need an extremely expensive motherboard either unless you need any specific features. Something like this will do for a standard user. Even cheaper ($150) at Microcenter if you have one nearby. 750W is suitable for your build. 850W would be ideal if you planned on getting another GPU to SLI them
You won't be able to overclock with that motherboard you picked. You need a p67/z68 mobo like this.
You'll probably want an aftermarket CPU cooler, so I suggest this
For the SSD I suggest you get this
You picked a 5400RPM HDD, you want a 7200RPM like this if you need to store lots of files like pictures, movies, etc then get 1 7200rpm and 1 5400rpm.
Personally I'd go with a more cost effective SLI/Crossfire solution for your video card, the 580 is pretty bad when it comes to price/performance. You can get two 570's/6950's and it will cost about the same, if not less, and you will get much more performance.
Case is up to you, but I suggest something like the HAF912
And finally, your power supply is a bit overkill. At most, 750W is what you need if you take my advice and sli/crossfire 570s/6950s.
Wow, thanks a lot for that :) I'll be awaiting your review haha. Any major difference in this or this? I am planning on over clocking.
Hey! Very nice build, congrats!
Also, you should have a look at the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus. I am building a setup similar to yours and for all your needs it will work flawlessly. Although the Liquid Coolers are also very attractive but there are always the inherent risks - such as the tube splitting and the liquid leaking, frying your beloved components in the process.
It could be a poor seal between the heatsink and CPU which would be alleviated by remounting the heatsink, although you would need to reapply some Thermal Compound. I would certainly consider a step up to the Cooler Master Hyper 212+, it is only $20 and will be a huge improvement.
> It can't be that much worse, can it?
It has far less overclocking headroom. The 960T should get to 4GHz easily and you also might be able to unlock it to a hex core CPU. Personally, I wouldn't get the 925.
I also wouldn't grab that mobo. This Gigabyte has better power phases for overclocking and has more upgrade room. It even has a combo with the FX-4100. Alternatively, this Asus and this ASRock are around the same price, but have more upgrade room, but fewer VRMs than the Gigabyte.
There's no reason not to get the Hyper 212+ when it's $21 at Amazon. You'll have a cooler running computer and be able to overclock further with it.
Personally, I don't care for single sticks of RAM. I'd spend $8 more and get this 8GB Kingston kit. If you can't afford it, get this G.Skill stick.
Depending on what you mean by 'media' that 2500K is pretty overkill. You can get nearly identical gaming performance from the significantly less expensive i3-2100.
I wouldn't call that Zalman cooler superfluous, but I wouldn't pick it over the favored 212+ unless you have solid evidence showing how quiet it is. You should see what sites like SilentPCreview and Guru3D consider the leaders in quiet cooling at the moment.
You can definitely save a good deal of money with any one of these ASRock micro ATX motherboards. That Asus is enormously more expensive than you need.
The GTX 560TI is a good choice. You should consider this MSI twin frozr 6950 2GB card for only ten bucks more. It is the more powerful card in nearly every case. MSI also makes some of the coolest cards around, which is of primary importance for a microATX build like this one.
You probably don't need all 16 GB of that RAM. You should stick with this set instead.
You also won't need that 650W power supply. With a single mid-range GPU, at most you'll need is 500W. I would recommend finding a well reviewed, modular unit around 500W instead.
Everything is compatible. I don't know much about that motherboard but it is gigabyte so that's respectable. The only thing you need to get is a cpu cooler. the cooler master 212 plus it the most popular around these parts.
Are you planning on overclocking? If so, you should pick up a better CPU cooler. Many people around here like the Hyper 212+. For $20, you can get a 300-1200 mhz increase in your CPU speed.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G1YPH0/?tag=pcpapi-20
If you're going with the 570, you might wana look into gtx 560 ti 448 core cards. One at ncix for $280. 560 448 is supposed to have similar performance as the 570.
Edit: noticed on another thread you can get the cooler for $20 at amazon
You say you're using a Storm Scout? A Hyper 212+ will fit in that case just fine:
http://i.imgur.com/c62QS.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/OPeWZ.jpg
Other than that, if you're looking for a low profile cooler for the same or less than the cost of the Hyper 212+, the Arctic Freezer 7 Pro Rev. 2 or Cooler Master Hyper TX3 should be fine. But considering the Hyper 212+ fits in the Scout, and it only costs $26 on Amazon, I'd say that's your best option.
If you're willing to pay 25 shipped for it, might as well just get it for $28, brand new
If it wasn't for those raptors you'd be able to squeak by with a considerably less beefy power supply, but you'll probably be looking at this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371045
and the r/buildapc favorite
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-Sleeve-RR-B10-212P-G1/dp/B002G1YPH0/
Edit: If you're feeling adventurous, you can oil the fan in your power supply:
http://www.dansdata.com/fanmaint.htm
I suggest using the mineral oil mentioned in the article. When you open a power supply though you need to be EXTREMELY careful, the big capacitors in a power supply hold a charge for a long time and can shock the life out of you.
I would NEVER use the stock fan. Pick up the cooler master 212, which is great for overclocking, inexpensive and in general just an awesome addon to your computer.
you've got a good start, there are a couple of easy upgrades you could make to optimize your build.
you can upgrade your hard drive to a samsung f3 1TB for $5, and you could upgrade your graphics card to a GTX 560 for $20. both of those upgrades are worth it, and neither costs alot.
if you're planning on overclocking your 2500K, i would definitely add a CPU cooler like the Coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus. even if you're not overclocking, it's a good upgrade to keep your system's temperature down.
Don't forget to get a optical drive, especially if you plan on installing your OS from a disc. this is a cheap read/write drive, however if you want to play blu-rays; you'll need something like this. but you won't be able to burn discs with that drive.
if you're looking to save some money, you won't need 8GB of RAM unless you plan on dealing with large/complex files. 4GB is plenty for gaming. if you're going to be doing heavy video/photo/vector/3D editing, then 8GB is worth it. However; RAM is cheap right now; 8GB is no longer unreasonable for average users.
If you want to connect to a wireless connection, you'll need an adapter
don't forget your peripherals! unless you already own them, you'll need a keyboard, mouse and monitor.
you'll also need an OS; newegg carries all versions of windows 7. they have a good deal on 64-bit home premium OEM. I don't recommend getting a 32-bit operating system, 64-bit systems can emulate a 32-bit OS to run any 32-bit applications you may need. it is possible to install apple software, but it is a legal gray area. consult /r/hackintosh for more information.
have fun building, let me know how it goes!
What case do you have? If it is a large enough case, I would swap out that CPU cooler to something like the Hyper 212+ It'll save money and also perform a bit better.
Motherboard: That will work just fine. I believe the quote you listed is telling you to buy an add-on card which connects to your motherboard through a PCI slot and gives you extra USB ports like this. That mothboard has 4 USB 2.0 ports and 2 USB 3.0 ports and your case has two front panel USB ports. This brigns your total USB ports up to 8. If you need more than 8 then you can buy an add-on card or back plate that attaches to the USB connections on the motherboard. The latter looks like this. The black thing obviously goes to the motherboard.
CPU: Depending on how much video editing you do you might be able to drop down to the 2500K. The 2600K will be better for video editing, but if you really need to save money and don't edit enough to justify the price increase then you can get the 2500K.
GPU: The 570 is pretty good and you would want to get an EVGA card because they have a lifetime warranty. You can also get the 6950 which is slightly worse (maybe 10% less FPS) but costs about $80 less.
Hard drive: Switch to the Samsung Spinpoint F3. It's cheaper, faster (the 6 Gb/s on the WD is crap, HDD can't even get up to 3 Gb/s), and more reliable. If you have extra money then get an SSD. One of the best upgrades you can give your computer. They are crazy fast
Everything else looks good. Make sure to get an aftermarket CPU cooler if you overclock. The Cooler Master Hyper 212+ is great.
I've got my Q6600 running at 50c max even in Bad Company 2 with a Hyper 212+ http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-Sleeve-RR-B10-212P-G1/dp/B002G1YPH0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1309753465&amp;sr=8-1
and 2 of these in a push pull http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Sleeve-Bearing-blades-FN121/dp/B000C1DXLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1309753490&amp;sr=8-1
I would actually get one of those fans to act as a rear exhaust also.
PC Part Picker should do everything for you. They give you the option to filter by compatibility with the parts you already selected.
Since you're using an i5, any motherboard with an LGA1155 socket will be compatible. You should go for one with a p67 chipset.
This is a pretty popular CPU cooler.
your motherboard would allow sli, but i dont know if your psu could handle it.
your case isnt the problem with your temps, its your cooler.
if youre going to spend that much on a cooler, buy this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608018
its basically the best on the market.
but you could get by on a lot less if you wanted to.
something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-Sleeve-RR-B10-212P-G1/dp/B002G1YPH0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1303803446&amp;sr=8-1
would be a lot better than stock but for less money than the noctua.
theres obviously a ton of options in between there as well.
$25 will get you this -- Mine easily keeps my 2500k under 50C even at 24/7 max load and 30-35 idle. From what I've seen/heard, you can't really do much better without spending close to $100, and you really don't need more unless you're trying to overclock past about 4.5GHz.
What kind of heatsink and fan are on the CPU?
I have the same CPU - the stock heatsink and fan ended up getting really loud on me, but this fixed it.
Looks pretty good to me. The only thing you really need to change is the RAM. What you have selected is 1.65V which Sandy Bridge doesn't like. Here's some cheaper similarly performing 1.5V RAM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226191
Also since you have the 2500K I'm guessing you're gonna OC, so you should tack on a 212 for cooling: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G1YPH0/?tag=pcpapi-20
Also look to raserei's post for more suggestions. The only thing I disagree with is waiting for Ivy Bridge. Intel has been delaying the hell of out it for a while now. Also the Z68 mobo you have is cheap enough so downgrading to a P67 probably wouldn't be worth it.
Nice build.
He could always swap the CPU for the $110 FX-4100 and overclock the shit out of it. The compatible mobo would be $60. He could make that difference by not getting the DVD drive and just getting one later. He can then OC the FX-4100 quite far with the Hyper 212 and call it a day for a total of about $30 more at $815.
Hell, if he was really serious and wanted to destroy pretty much any game in existence, he'd drop the 6870 and pick up two HIS 6850's for $100 more (he'd have to grab this). He could make up that $100 difference by pirating windows (don't pretend nobody here does that) and then he'd be playing any game at ultra settings with no questions asked.
The best bang for the buck seems to be the Cooler Master Hyper 212 plus
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G1YPH0/?t=slickdeals&amp;ascsubtag=qCEoQkCwEeO95-ZWJb0cRAaGt7_0HZl3_0_0_0 The Hyper 212 Plus is on sale for $17 after mail in rebate. Not going to get anything that good for that cheap anywhere else.
...but I'd still get the EVO.
pcpartpicker.com
So if you don't want to overclock, you can go with a much cheaper mobo. Sorry, no suggestions from me. I didn't research in non-OC parts.
If you want the hyper 101, you want the I version:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G1YPH0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B002G1YPH0&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=logicaincrem-20
But most people reccomend the 212evo:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G1YPH0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B002G1YPH0&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=logicaincrem-20
It seems that the 212 evo is superior for a small price increase. And the 101 you chose (the intel version) is only available from 3rd parties.
I ended up getting the Hyper 212 Plus because I read some reviews that said it was quieter than the Evo. I've never had an Evo, so I have no basis of comparison, but I just installed the Plus last night, and it was definitely quieter all day today than the stock cooler I took out of there.
On a separate but related note - I have a quad monitor setup, with 2 GPUs, 3770k, and WD Black, so my office gets pretty hot. The old fan I was using to cool the room was too loud for me to keep it on when having meetings on Skype. So I ordered a Vornado 660. On the lowest setting, it keeps me nice and cool, and is damn near silent, even from up close. So quiet in fact, that after I bought it, that's when I decided to replace the stock CPU cooler, as that was then the loudest thing in the room. So, I definitely recommend that Vornado - worth every penny.
Most of the computer noise comes from what is called the CPU "heatsink" - a small fan on top of the very small processor. It is usually a VERY good idea to replace the heatsink for various reasons, but also decreases sound issues (as the fans are better, larger, better designed structure, etc.) Heatsinks depend on some part on what type of CPU/Processor you have. This is the one I have: CPU Heatsink for AMD edit: it should be noted that the linked heatsink is compatible with a large array of CPUs, just check if yours is there! =)
Sound can also be caused by your case (vents, insulation, set up, rattling, etc.), the amount and size of the fans (larger fans are quieter - less rotations, or whatever).
Also, when installing heatsinks - or anything else - just save yourself the trouble and google an installation video on youtube.
16 I think is the max, I personally have 12GB RAM: one of the original 4GB sticks as well as this 8GB stick
It's a hard disk with solid-state storage in it. I would go for the SSD. The Samgsung 850 EVO 500gb (or 250gb) SSD is the best bang for your buck. A reputable brand and an affordable price.
I think 2009 and 2012 models have different RAM.
This is the RAM you will need. http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/macbook-pro-%2813-inch%2C-mid-2009%29/CT3309352
2012's use DDR3 1600 MHz
Crucial 8GB Single DDR3L 1600 MT/s (PC3L-12800) SODIMM 204-Pin Laptop Memory (CT102464BF160B)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006YG8X9Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_azUFyb5D2FXTS
yeah 1600 is fine. get a single 8gb stick instead. http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-PC3-12800-204-Pin-Notebook-CT102464BF160B/dp/B006YG8X9Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406240123&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ddr3+1600+sodimm+8gb
i have no clue how your ram config set up gets you 6GB. you have 2 ram slots. maybe 2gb soldered on mobo, and 2x2gb? or it's 1x4gb and 1x2gb?
You need DDR3L memory.
I searched around and found a website recommending laptops for pool studio:
blog.structurestudios.com/software/structure-studios-computer-hardware-requirements
The only one that fits the bill for <900$ is Del i7559 whose i7 hyperthreaded(HQ) is currently on offer at Dell.com for 800$. For the remaining 100$ i recommend an mainly ram upgrade and SSD upgrade(if possible) to help run program faster.
Okay brother, here's the dealio. First a disclaimer. If you have $50 in the bank, and have to have this laptop for school or work, don't even risk it. I was successful, and I'm happy I did it now that it is all back together. But it was scary. There were several instances where I was really worried about breaking something irreparably. If you've got enough money to buy something else, and just have the itch to upgrade this machine and the confidence to do so, here are the parts I bought:
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-PC3-12800-204-Pin-Notebook-CT102464BF160B/dp/B006YG8X9Y?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
http://www.amazon.com/Protronix-Optical-Drive-Caddy-Universal/dp/B004XIUQYA?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
What I ended up doing is putting the SSD where the HDD is now, and putting the HDD in the caddy. The bezel from the original drive can be removed and placed on the caddy. Just dig your fingernails underneath the top of the bezel and pull outward and downward. I was worried about it breaking, but it'll come off.
Also, the RAM was a pain in the butt until I realized how to install it. To remove the 4gb stick, I pulled the little clips <-- outward --> with my middle fingers, and pulled the ram forward with my pointer finger.
To install the 8gb chip, just insert it down into the slot, then push backwards towards the motherboard. It will just click into place. Took me about 15 minutes to figure out.
When you go to reinstall the ribbon cables for the keyboard and trackpad, there are little black plastic clips that clip down onto the cable and hold it into place. The bigger cable is fairly easy to get back in. The smaller cable was harder for me. I recommend holding the keyboard up like a book (left side on the table, right side in the air) instead of like a calendar (back side on the table, front side in the air). You'll see what I mean when you get there.
Other than that, just pay a lot of attention to the video. He does a good job explaining the actually dis-assembly process.
https://youtu.be/ByyYIzs6Cs8
And seriously guys, if you've never done this before (like me) and breaking this laptop is going to make you cry, don't even try it. It's a great laptop for the money. You don't always have to have more, more, more.
DDR3L 1600 SoDIMM is what you need.
Here is one on amazon for $17: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LDLV6S/ref=psdc_172500_t1_B00CQ35GYE
Though I would personally recommend spending another $9 and getting an 8 GB stick to bring your total to 12 GB: http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-PC3-12800-204-Pin-Notebook-CT102464BF160B/dp/B006YG8X9Y
Sure, you already have 8GB ram in the laptop I assume you are looking to get another 8GB stick ? if so then this one would work
Alright! So There's good news and bad news. The good news is you can absolutely upgrade your computer in a variety of ways. You can even give yourself a dedicated graphics card! The bad news though, is that doing so probably won't be cheap. It might be better to buy a new laptop, or start putting together a desktop rig for yourself. I'll let you be the judge though! Here we go!
RAM: Upgrade from 4GB to 8GB
This would definitely speed up your computer. *GB is the minimum I recommend to anyone, regardless of what they are using the computer for. 4GB of RAM is the minimum necessary for a modern operating system to function, so doubling to 8GB will give you some very noticeable improvement.
I generally stick with Crucial.com RAM for upgrades. They're affordable, have good customer service, and have never steered me wrong before. You have two choices for an 8GB upgrade from them. A standard 8GB module and a Ballistix 8GB module. The latter is supposed to be higher quality, but I'm not really familiar with the differences, nor do I think it's worth the extra money. I'd go with the standard.
Hard Drive: Upgrade to Solid State or Fusion Drive
Upgrading the hard drive won't improve gaming performance, but it will make everything you do on your system faster overall. Not 100% sure, but I think your computer has a 500GB drive in there right now. decent space, but bare bones performance. Upgrading to a Fusion Drive or SSD will give you a huge performance jump. SSDs are the fastest drives out there, but assuming you don't want to decrease your disk space, your going to have to pay the premium. SSHDs aka Fusion Drives offer the best of both worlds; they add flash storage to a standard drive, and optimize performance by putting the system files and most frequently used files and programs on the flash section. Huge performance boost for a MUCH lower price than an SSD. I love these things, and definitely recommend one if budget is an issue. To upgrade your drive, you'll need to either have a backup you can restore to the new drive, or clone your existing hard drive to the new drive beforehand. My recommended method of doing this is by buying a hard drive enclosure. It's super affordable, and will let you repurpose your old hard drive as an external drive or backup drive when you're done.
CPU, Motherboard, and GPU:
Ok, here's where everything gets complex. The RAM and Hard Drive are easy upgrades, but while they will definitely speed things up, they won't help with gaming performance as much as this will. Your processor is trying to handle running the computer and running the games at the same time, and since it's not a great processor, it can't do that very well. Upgrading the processor allows your computer to do a lot more at once, and adding a GPU essentially gives games their own dedicated processor to work with. You'll see huge gaming performance boosts by going this route. Here's the trouble though: Your CPU is integrated in the motherboard. The only way to upgrade it is by swapping in a new motherboard with a better integrated processor. The silver lining here is that your computer model line had several motherboard options, both with more powerful CPUs as well as dedicated integrated GPUs. This means that by buying a new motherboard, you could upgrade your CPU, add a GPU, or both!
Here's the problem though. These motherboards are hard to find, expensive, or both. Parts-People.com has the listings and Dell Part numbers for several upgrades to your system, both with and without NVidia GPUs.
No GPU:
i5-4210U 1.7GHz - 6YPRH |
i5-5200U 2.2GHz - THVGR |
i7-4510U 2.0GHz - 7G1CD
With GPU:
i5-4210U 1.7GHz - 1P4HG |
i5-5200U 2.2GHz - T7TC4 |
i7-4510U 2.0GHz - CHXGJ
As you can see...pricey AND sold out. But at least this gives you a references. You may also notice that the ones with NVidia GPUs actually say they are only compatible with models that already had a discrete GPU...that's not actually true. I double checked with one of their technicians; all you'd need would be a replacement fan/heatsink. The one in your system only covers the CPU. The new one would cover both the CPU and the GPU. Fortunately, this part is inexpensive, both on the Parts-People site and on eBay.
Speaking of eBay, I think it's the best option for finding one of these motherboards. I did find the best version of the bunch for sale, but they're still quite pricey. There is another option though. By watching eBay for used Dell Inspiron models that have the motherboard you need, you might be able to find and win an auction for a whole computer at a far lower price point than the motherboard alone. As it turns outYou'd need to look for keywords like processor speed, and hope that if you tactfully asked if it said "nvidia" somewhere, the seller would understand what to look for. It gets risky, but you might even find auctions for damaged versions being sold for parts. Idiot cracked his screen? Motherboard's probably ok! Idiot spilled beer all over the computer...avoid that one. You wouldn't be restricted to Inspiron 15 (3542) either. As it turns out, these boards were used in Inspiron 14 (3442) and Inspiron 17 (5748) models as well. Definitely helpful if you go that route. Hell, with nothing wrong with it and at the right price point, you might find a whole new computer this way!
Speaking of a new computer...we come to my final point. Cost and worth. If you were to buy the RAM, Fusion Drive, external enclosure, i7 + GPU Motherboard, and Fan/Heatsink right now, you'd be looking at something like $350. Not terrible in the grand scheme of things, especially considering the fact that you could buy them at separate times, upgrading in stages as budget allows. However, the Wirecutter's pick for a budget laptop is $550 on Amazon, and would match or exceed the performance of everything above with no hassle or downtime. Just something to consider!
Phew! That was a lot. Hopefully it's helpful information, and gives you an idea of your options. Let me know if you have any questions!
> what is happening here? Brand name gives them a boosted value? Is the quality difference noticeable?
There is no difference. The SSD Dell offers is probably even worse. OEMs just think that SSDs are a premium feature and therefore overcharge for it. Just buy the 850 Evo on Amazon (or at Micro Center, Best Buy) and you're good to go. Same goes for the RAM.
> As for the RAMs, any suggestions what I should get?
You need DDR3L (1.35V) 1600 MHz RAM modules, right?
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-Single-PC3L-12800-204-Pin-CT102464BF160B/dp/B006YG8X9Y/
> Also, is it possible to set up 12GB RAN? 4+8... to try to not hit that hard on budget at once...
Yes.
I would get a quad core i7 CPU and a dedicated GPU for CAD.
What about the [DELL Inspiron i7559-2512BLK] (https://shopineer.com/laptops/DELL-Inspiron-i7559-2512BLK)?
Intel Core i7-6700HQ 2.6 GHz, 15.6", 1920 x 1080, 8 GB RAM, 1 TB SHDD (hybrid drive), GeForce GTX 960M, Windows 10 Home 64-Bit, 5.67 lbs.
It also has a good battery life, an IPS screen and a good cooling system. You can quite easily upgrade RAM to 16 GB. An extra [8 GB stick is around $38] (https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-Single-PC3L-12800-204-Pin-CT102464BF160B/dp/B006YG8X9Y/).
Okay this may be an odd purchase but http://www.amazon.com/F555LA-AB31-15-6-inch-Full-HD-Laptop-Windows/dp/B011KFQASE/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451694997&amp;sr=1-1&amp;refinements=p_n_operating_system_browse-bin%3A12035945011%2Cp_n_feature_three_browse-bin%3A9647486011
An Intel i3 is going to be suitable for photoshop and casual use, the Intel HD 5500 inside is pretty damned suitable for any casual gaming as well. It has 2 USB 3.0 ports, it DOES have a disk drive however I could not find any that didn't. It also has AC wireless and a 1080p display.
Now it comes with a 500GB 5200rpm, which ick. So you'd need to buy 2 things separately to get a better experience
Depending on what you want to spend 60/76$ You can get an SSHD 1tb or 500gb, if you don't know SSHD has the cheapness/storage power of a HDD with the performance benefits of an SSD, it's basically the bridge between 7200rpm and SSD
http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Laptop-2-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000LM014/dp/B00B99JUBQ/ref=zg_bs_1254762011_7
Another addition is upgrading the 4GB of memory, this will enable better multi tasking and a bit snappier performance.
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-PC3-12800-204-Pin-Notebook-CT102464BF160B/dp/B006YG8X9Y/ref=cm_cr_dp_asin_lnk
Combined total with the 1tb is $459 for a pretty decent system, it will require you to go through the effort of putting new parts in, but the end result should be great. I will say that you should look for a Youtube video of the hard drive replacement, as it seems memory is easy to install, but the HDD may require a few extra steps.
I will say, plugging 2+ monitors into a laptop with just one HDMI port is going to be a pain. You can do one screen via HDMI, sure, but you'd need to use shitty USB adapters for the rest, and there's no way to make those not suck graphically. Were I you, I'd opt for the T450s, which you can get for $762 when you create a free Barnes&Noble Gold discount for "students and teachers" through Lenovo here. Then I'd add my own 8GB SO-DIMM for $35 (bringing total RAM to 12GB), and my own 250GB SSD for $80, and have one killer business laptop that's super durable, has a superb keyboard and trackpad, for just shy of your $900 price tag (not including tax). However, this assume you're OK with reinstalling your own OS and installing the RAM/SSD yourself, which is super easy, but I don't know how technical you are. This way you get a VGA port and mini-DisplayPort, which itself can run 2 extra monitors with an adapter like this, or plug it into a docking station.
You'll want to look for DDR3L ram like this: https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-Single-PC3L-12800-SODIMM-204-Pin/dp/B006YG8X9Y
And you can mix and match ram, so just stick this in with the 4gh and you'll have 12gb. I had 4+8gb total in my i3 R1 and never and any problems.
Sorry to tell you it looks like that model laptop only has 1 memory slot and the largest module it supports is 8GB. You would have to replace your existing 4GB module with the 8GB module, so the laptop maxes out at 8GB RAM.
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-Single-PC3-12800-Unbuffered-204-Pin/dp/B006YG8X9Y/ref=sr_1_1
Good luck!
I'm looking to upgrade my CPU air cooler from the default crap intel stock one to a better after market one.
I have an i5-2500, and from this is what I was able to find with couple of minutes of research:
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Contact-Heatpipes-RR-T4-18PK-R1/dp/B00BSKY1M4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465150898&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Cooler+Master+Hyper+212+Plus+-+CPU+Cooler+with+4+Direct+Contact+Heatpipes
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-Plus-RR-B10-212P-G1/dp/B002G1YPH0/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465150898&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=Cooler+Master+Hyper+212+Plus+-+CPU+Cooler+with+4+Direct+Contact+Heatpipes
I'm not sure which one to pick. If you guys have a better suggestion, let me hear it!
Also, what thermal paste and rubbing alcohol for removing paste would you guys recommend?
If around $20 is your budget, definitely go with the 212 Plus. It's pretty much the same as the EVO. Great cooler, great temps, quiet and has a $5 rebate!(Probably not worth it, but up to you.)
Instead of going water cooled have you looked at getting a better heatsink/fan?
If you are going to OC it always recommended to replace the stock cooler as it is not designed for that.
Good Cooler (fits haswell)
With the stock cooler on a 720, you should be able to clock up to around 3.2 from the stock 2.8 and maintain under 65C which is the highest you should hover around. I would recommend purchasing a light aftermarket cooler such as a Cooler Master Hyper 212+. Also, you are going to be overclocking your CPU in the bios.
Link:
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-Sleeve-RR-B10-212P-G1/dp/B002G1YPH0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1319929968&amp;sr=8-1
Looks good. With the parts you already have, you can't really go wrong with the others.
An after-market CPU cooler is ALWAYS recommended when OC'ing. Personally I like this. But a lot of people will recommend this.
This one is good if you want to go with air or you could go water cooling like this one if you want to OC a little farther. Either will be much better than stock and should get you over 4ghz.
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus certainly is popular around here. It dropped as low as around 15 bucks leading up to black Friday but no idea if that will come again soon. Kinda a hassle to apply thermal paste because of the grooves around pipes but its really only something you have to do once and there are a ton of guides.
One of the best bang for the buck coolers out there: Hyper 212+
Will let you get a decent overclock in and isn't super expensive.
It's worth considering the 2500k instead of the 2600k for the processor in my opinion. I don't have enough knowledge about how much performance hyper threading gives you so I don't feel comfortable telling you not to get it but research it a bit. If the advantage isn't huge you can save about $80 going for the 2500k.
For RAM 8 GB should be enough but aim for 1600mhz. Source. As the article says I wouldn't try to get higher than 1600 mhz.
If you are planning on OCing get the cooler master hyper 212.
I always see this drive thrown around in builds, would be worth looking in to.
Oh great, I can get away with a 620W PSU? That card looks like it will fit what I'm doing perfectly.
For the air cooler, will a $20 fan cause any noise?
Thanks for your suggestions!
edit: Would this fan do well?
PICS, PICS, PICS!!
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor | 181.95-€ @ Mindfactory
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212+ | 26.80€ @ Amazon
Motherboard | ASRock Z68 EXTREME3 GEN3 | 105.94€ @ Mindfactory
Thermal Paste | Arctic Cooling MX-2 | 4.90€ @ Mindfactory
Memory | Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | 39.99€ @ Mindfactory
Hard Drive | [Old HDD till the prices drop] | ~60.00+€ @ Mindfactory
Video Card | MSI Twin Froz III 6950 2 GB | 254.63€ @ Amazon
Case | Corsair Carbide 500R | 95.65€ @ Mindfactory
Power Supply | 700W Super Flower Golden Green 80+ Gold Modular | 103.11€ @ Mindfactory
Optical Drive | Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer | 16.30€ @ Mindfactory
||| Total:
| All in Germany || ~834.50€ + HDD
Fan
I would go for the 212 plus.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G1YPH0/?tag=pcpapi-20
After reading through some benchmarks for CPU scaling on skyrim, i'd say to go for an aftermarket CPU cooler and an overclock to squeeze the most out of your system.
A Hyper 212+ would work well for £26.75, putting you at £601.26 or the Hyper 212+ EVO for £28.05 leaving you at £602.59
On the other hand, BF3 is almost purely GPU load, and an overclock won't help much on that.
Sources:
CPU scaling for Skyrim
CPU scaling for BF3
First of all, you don't really need such an expensive cooler. The Xigmatek Gaia and the CoolerMaster 212 are both great coolers for much less than your Corsair. I would use the $85 saved to upgrade to an i5 2500k CPU. Of course, you would need to change your motherboard as well; I'd recommend the MSI P67A-G45 in the $120-130 price range.
Also, are you planning on adding a second 560 Ti in the future? If you are, you may need a 750W power supply, but I am not sure of that.
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-Sleeve-RR-B10-212P-G1/dp/B002G1YPH0
Cheap and Effective(probably more than the zalman) Also I have heard a lot about mounting issues with the zalman for i5's
Also, 850W power supply is overkill unless you plan Crossfire in the future. If you don't plan to crossfire 650W is fine.
Corsair TX 650
You could also look into getting an SSD at that price range.
This is a really nice cooler, and it's pretty cheap. A lot of people don't trust stock coolers. If it can keep the CPU cool, awesome, but I personally don't want to take the risk.
Linky for the lazy people
Liquid cooling is probably unnecessary. Here is a solid aftermarket cooler that practically everyone uses/recommends for a Sandy Bridge.
If you were willing to deal with a non-modular PSU you could shave off about $15. I wouldn't recommend a PSU less than 750 if you plan on Crossfire in the future, though.
I would probably recommend a different motherboard as well.
Optical Drive
Other than that, you appear to have all of the pieces you need.
Yeah the case is kind of a bummer but I couldn't justify spending more $$ when it's mostly an aesthetic issue.
For CPU cooling I forgot to mention I got Cooler Master CPU Cooler
For those who don't have a Fry's around them, Amazon has the 212+ for $24.99 + free shipping http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G1YPH0/?tag=pcpapi-20
You can save $5 by ordering it from Amazon, FYI.
Cooler Master Hyper 212. It's the most recommended cooler here. It's cheap and gets the job done.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G1YPH0/?tag=pcpapi-20
you can overclock a little on the stock fan, but it's not recommended.
You can just run it at stock for now and when you decide that you want more power, you can buy a $20-30 aftermarket CPU cooler (The coolermaster Hyper 212+ is the goto cheap cooler) and overclock it while getting lower temperatures and a quieter system.
If you want to get an nvidia card, the 560ti is a good card, but it's in the ~$220 price range. For single GPU setups, driver issues really aren't an issue and multi GPU setups tend to be more trouble than they're worth. I would stick to a card on the recommended list and ready why they recommend it over the competition.
I'm just now noticing it.. it irks me. Thinking of getting a cooler master cooler.
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-Plus-RR-B10-212P-G1/dp/B002G1YPH0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=3K9B0ND36LMZF&amp;coliid=I3BF82C373UZ88
Get a 600 Watt Power Supply. It'll save you 50 quid.
Get the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus CPU cooler. 25 more quid saved.
With all that extra money, you can upgrade to a Radeon 7770 for about 35 quid more.
Also, you only need 8 GB of memory. 16 GB is overkill.
Other than those things, a great build.
Good choice on the cpu. It is fantastic for gaming but you are paying for the K at the end.
You probably know already, but if you do not, intel's K series have an unlocked core multiplier meaning you can easily over clock them.
But in order to do so safely, you will need an aftermarket cooler. I suggest the CM-212 Plus. If you don't plan on the overclock, the locked core i5-2500 saves you a little bit.
I have that ram, and its great but if i did it again I would go with something like Crucial Ballistix which have better timings.
And finally, I would highly suggest the crucial m4 of Plextor m3 instead of the corsair.
EDIT: Here is my go-to $600USD list which might equate to around the price you are looking for.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i3-2120 3.3GHz Dual-Core Processor | $116.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock Z77 Pro3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard | $102.55 @ Newegg
Memory | Patriot Signature 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $41.99 @ Amazon
Hard Drive | Crucial M4 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk | $118.99 @ eCost
Video Card | XFX Radeon HD 6870 2GB Video Card | $179.99 @ Newegg
Case | Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case | $49.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | Antec 450W ATX12V Power Supply | $34.98 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping and discounts when available. | $645.48
Of I didn't notice that this was 3770 (no K). So you don't need an aftermarket cooler. But if you do go with the K, then here you go
Cooler Master make very popular CPU coolers and this one is on sale for ~$17 with a $10 rebate. It's a great deal for a good CPU cooler. You might be looking for something more intense, though...I'll leave this up as an option!
You only need a cooler if you're going to overclock. You can get this.
And as a response to your other question, if you want fast boot times and loading and your budget allows then go for it. The 830 is a great drive. Some people want to wait until the 840 comes out. Up to you.
I have a stock cooler on my AMD 8350 and I want to replace the cooler/fan/whatever might be on top of the CPU.
What's the difference between this and this? Which one should I get? help pls
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Direct-Contact-RR-B10-212P-G1/dp/B002G1YPH0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1346703831&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hyper+212
This is a good one
so i caved in. I always thought newegg had the best prices, isn't this cheaper on amazon for some reason? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G1YPH0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
This is my parts which I built
Case : Cooler Master HAF 922
CPU : Intel Core i5-2500K
CPU Cooler : Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus
Mobo : GIGABYTE GA-Z68X-UD4-B3
Memory : Corsair Vengeance Blu 8 GB (2X4GB) PC3-12800 1600mHz DDR3 240-Pin SDRAM Dual Channel Memory Kit
HDD : Samsung Spinpoint F3 1 TB
GPU : EVGA GeForce GTX 570
PSU : Cooler Master GX Series 750W ATX
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G1YPH0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Here is a link to the heat sink that i purchased. It should fit your mobo and case fine enough!
When applying the thermal paste to your processor, and generally when handling the processor, make sure to wear latex gloves.
First use a alcohol wipe to clean both surfaces, then place a dollop of thermal paste down and set the heatsink in place.
Remember, when stuck, there's a youtube video explaining how to do everything. Notably, corsair does a series on how to assemble a pc!
I picked up this for my 8120.
i got to tell you now if your looking for something quiet you gotta build it all quiet. CPU Cooling, and the GPU. only noise my machine makes is starting up, the HDD is loud as fuck. But after about 20 seconds you cant even tell it's on.
No, but I did buy a cooler master hyper evo 212 plus
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G1YPH0/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i00
For a cooler you should look into the EVO 212 air cooler . Its only around $27 and good quiet performance.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002G1YPH0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1383186647&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
For fans the Corsair AF120 are some nice high airflow affordable quiet fans. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007RESGBC/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?qid=1383186731&amp;sr=8-9&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
As for cable management I recommend cable ties and in your case here maybe like a cable guard or shield that can cover them to make it look cleaner inside. But that case is pretty tight overall so your best bet is to just upgrade it when you got an extra cash around.
Watch this video for some tips on cable management in that case https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UjeTO5TBWy8&amp;feature=youtube_gdata_player
How old? I have a cooler I ordered for mine to find out it's incompatible. If you'll pay the shipping and 5 bucks it's yours. It's compatible with about anything. Except mine :(
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G1YPH0/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
A cooler will help you squeeze a lot more power out of your CPU. And it'll still run at a nicer temp than with a stock one, and quieter.
oh and the fan: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G1YPH0/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-Single-PC3L-12800-204-Pin-CT102464BF160B/dp/B006YG8X9Y/ref=pd_lpo_147_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=7JJGYDYJWSKYBBN29HNB
Would this one work? my laptop has 1 more ram slot
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-Single-PC3L-12800-204-Pin-CT102464BF160B/dp/B006YG8X9Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483936789&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=crucial+laptop+ram
8 gb single ram. If it's 2010 to 2012 macbook pro, it'll take 8gb of ram in a single slot, allowing up to 16gb
You are almost making me change my mind ;)
Here is what I could consider aside from the sg-3100.
https://www.amazon.ca/QOTOM-Q330G4-Mini-Barebone-pfSense/dp/B074PK8ZVG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518383025&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=pfsense
https://www.amazon.ca/mSATA-Industrial-Grade-Enterprise-Class/dp/B0711K4RJ4/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=Q3MS2JBS1MDAB0VAAMRQ
https://www.amazon.ca/Crucial-Single-PC3-12800-Unbuffered-204-Pin/dp/B005LDLV6S/ref=pd_sim_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=Q3MS2JBS1MDAB0VAAMRQ
or
https://www.amazon.ca/Crucial-Single-PC3-12800-Unbuffered-204-Pin/dp/B006YG8X9Y/ref=pd_sim_147_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=Q3MS2JBS1MDAB0VAAMRQ
So this would be 400$ +taxes Canadian and the sg-3100 would turn around 500-520$ Canadian.
The Qotom takes a bit more power.. would this matter on the electricity bill at the end of the month? :) I don't know.
edits: I wish Netgate had some coupons.
Thanks so much. By it saying "16384-MB (8192-MB×2)" does that mean that I only have 2 ram ports? And where is the location of it in my laptop so I can make sure I currently have 1 8gb stick, instead of 2 4gbs. I have taken out the hard drive before so I know how to open the laptop. I found this, will it work/can I find it any cheaper than $86.
Just found this for $70. It is crucial brand, the other is kingston
30€ https://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-DDR3L-PC3L-12800-SODIMM-204-Pin/dp/B006YG8X9Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474754344&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=8GB+DDR3L-1600+SODIMM
The 980m is the best possible mobile GPU in your budget. It is about 30% more powerful than the 970m and so I suggest you buy the gigabyte p35Xv3
With your left over $100:
256gb mSATA SSD
1x 8GB DDr3
And then you have a laptop that's:
In my opinion you won't find better than this, that 980m is a huge boost over the 970m:
Witcher 3 1080p HIGH - scroll down to benchmark sections.
Based on your criteria..A great quality laptop would this [Dell Inspiron i7559-2512BLK]() that comes with a great i7 quad core processor, 8 GB RAM , a nice 1000 GB HDD =+ 8 GB SSD and of course, it comes with a very decent GTX 960 dedicated graphics card which will be your main performer in any graphic demanding applications. This laptop also has a great battery life and a very nice build quality. It is currently sold for a little over $800 which gives you a perfect option of getting another 8 GB RAM and an m.2 SSD card to install in it while still staying under $1000..
This gives you a laptop with an i7 quad core 6th gen procesor, 16 GB RAM which is awesome, a total of 1258 GB storage with a 1 TB HDD in addition to 264 GB SSD storage space... Excellent for you.
I actually just grabbed this laptop:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011KFQASE
if you buy a used one from Amazon Warehouse Deals and use the coupon code "WDEARLY20" you will get an additional 20% off.
It has integrated graphics wich means it wont be pushing max detail 60 fps, but it should run League ok. the real selling point is a 1080p IPS screen wich is almost impossible to find under 500$. nearly every other laptop at this price has 720p screens with TN (not as good colors).
If you want to really improve the laptop, buy a RAM module and SSD.
Laptop RAM
Any SSD 240-512gb will be a major improvement over the built in HDD.
Looks like there is room for 1 additional stick of ram, you can get something like this to double the amount available: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-PC3L-12800-SODIMM-204-Pin-CT102464BF160B/dp/B006YG8X9Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511889953&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ddr3l1600+sdram
Though, what you could do is opening up the task manager when you have Spotify and LR/PS open and see how much RAM you have left. This will tell you if RAM is indeed a problem (I suspect it is, as LR/PS uses a lot of RAM).
Another contributor to the issue would be the 1TB HDD. Usually laptop hard drives are spin slower and thus the lower read/write speeds. When your laptop runs out of memory, Windows will attempt to use your hard drive as memory swap, since the hard drive is slow as well then you are waiting a long time and Spotify would stutter due to lack of memory and slow read/write.
So here's what you could do:
With the suggestions above, you'll end up spending probably close to your $300 limit, but no new laptop :(. I did have a look on Amazon and the closest laptop that's got 16GBs of RAM and 512GB SSD is selling for about $800, though it does have better graphics card and CPU. Though refurbished laptops are selling for $450 to $700, maybe you can consider those, but be wary of the warranty.
Hi. I bought a cheap laptop as Amazon's deal of the day the other week and would like to upgrade the RAM. The laptop is a Lenovo ThinkPad Yoga 11e; here's the link to the page and user guide on Lenovo's website. Unfortunately, Lenovo doesn't provide any useful information in its user guide.
I've run crucial's memory program and it suggested this RAM. However, going through the reviews and Lenova's ad copy, it looks like this RAM is for Macs?
This RAM, however, is the RAM most commonly purchased by people that also purchased a Yoga 11e on Amazon. It's also a few dollars cheaper.
Which should I buy?
Also, any other recommendations to upgrade the laptop. It's pretty good for what I use it for, but I would like to be able to play Civ V on higher settings. Oddly, the demo for Beyond Earth ran really smoothly while Civ V doesn't run nearly as well.
Thanks in advance.
What you need is 1 stick of DDR3L SODIMM RAM with 8gb. I do not know where you live so i can't tell you where to buy. Here is an example from amazon that should fit.
The RAM that they are trying to sell you is the wrong kind. It is 240 pin and used for desktop computers and looks like this: LINK - it will not work in your laptop at all.
You need a soDIMM format stick of RAM. So long as it is from a good brand and is DDR3 soDIMM it does not matter which stick you purchase. RAM is the same as far as your computer is concerned. Technically clock speeds play a role but not that much so just look for a decent price in a mainstream name brand. Something like this: LINK