(Part 3) Best computer internal components according to redditors
We found 69,663 Reddit comments discussing the best computer internal components. We ranked the 11,153 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
Full list with links to everything shown here (and some stuff not shown). Please let me know if I've missed anything or if you have any questions.
PC Specs
Item | Make/model | Link | Price
-|-|-|-
Processor| Intel i7-8700k | Amazon | $355
Graphics Card| MSI GEFORCE GTX1080 TI GAMING X 11G| Amazon | $1,000
RAM | G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) 3200 MHZ | Amazon | $90
Motherboard | ASUS ROG Strix Z370-E Gaming | Amazon | $350
SSD | Samsung SSD 960 EVO 1TB NVMe | Amazon | $300
SSD | Samsung 850 EVO 500GB | Amazon | $130
SSD | Samsung 850 EVO 500GB | Amazon | $130
AIO | Corsair H110i V2 | Amazon | $120
Case | Lian Li PC 011 Dynamic | Amazon | $130
PSU | EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G2 | Amazon | $100
Fans | Corsair LL 120 | Amazon | $220
Drawers | Ikea Alex | Ikea | $90
The rest of the stuff
Item | Make/model | Link | Price
-|-|-|-
Desk | Jarvis Bamboo Standing Desk | Jarvis | $752
Chair | Herman Miller Embody | Amazon | $1,400
Monitor | ASUS PG279Q | Amazon | $610
Monitor | ASUS PG279Q | Amazon | $610
Desk Mat | Godspeed Reverse Panda | Novelkeys | $20
Mouse | Glorious Model O Matte White | Glorious | $50
Keyboard | Tofu65 w/ Gateron Browns | KBDFans | $200
Keycaps | MT3 Godspeed | Drop | $150
Dock | Caldigit TS3 | Amazon | $280
Speakers | Audioengine A2+ | Amazon | $300
Speaker Stands | Kanto S6W | Amazon | $60
Webcam | Logitech C922x | Amazon | $83
Monitor Arm | Jarvis Dual Monitor Arm in White | Jarvis | $160
Desk Backlight | Philips Hue Light Strip | Amazon | $90
Main Lights | Nanoleaf Light Panels | Nanoleaf | $550
Headphones | Hyperx Cloud Flight | Amazon | $135
VR | Oculus Quest | Amazon | $500
Headphones | Sony WH1000XM3 | Amazon | $275
Headphones | Master & Dynamic MH40 | Amazon | $250
Wallpaper Engine Link
\ price as configured
\ Some or all items not pictured here but are part of the setup
Why don't you get a 1440p display, cheaper sata ssd, cheaper cpu and mobo (ryzen 2, since you'd be playing on a higher res than 1080p ryzen 2 won't bottleneck and you won't need an aftermarket cooler) and you can step down to a 600/650w psu
you'll save: $176.88 on the cpu and cpu cooler (you'll also save some on the mobo). you'll save around $30 depending on the sata ssd you get (possibly more). save more than $30 and get this psu. So a total of around $295
you can get an Acer G247HYU for $230, you can find better deals on 1440p monitors tho
You'll get an overall better experience for slightly less money
Yep. Doesn't post checklist:
Everything but replacing the CPU would take a few minutes at most. All the tools necessary can be taken with you to someones home in a small kit (tools to open case, tester, multiple dimm types).
If you actually got all the way to replacing the CPU (assuming the computer didn't give you the beep code for bad memory), you would just inform the customer that it seems it's either a bad motherboard or bad CPU but that you would need to take it back to the shop for further diagnostics. If it's in your shop and not at home, this would be a really really quick 15 minute job.
The 3600x is $248 in stock and if you have Amex, you can get 20% off to get it to the price of a 3600
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139202&cm_re=550w-_-17-139-202-_-Product
$50 psu that is more than enough for this system
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813138372&cm_re=am3%2b-_-13-138-372-_-Product
$50 motherboard.
why you would pick such an expensive motherboard is beyond me when trying to do a comparison. motherboards offer almost NO performance improvements.
not to mention the cpu is more akin to amd's apu series, its an overclocked jaguar chip.
edit: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0430-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4
here is one of the best budget power supplies that is HIGHLY rated for $32, 500w version for $38
Some of them are there.
All Amazon Links:
Ryzen 9 3900x
Ryzen 7 3800x
Ryzen 7 3700x
Ryzen 5 3600x
Ryzen 5 3600
Ryzen 3 3200G
AMD cpus are on door crasher prices
AMD Ryzen 5 3600X $229
https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-3600X-12-thread-processor/dp/B07SQBFN2D/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=RYZEN&qid=1574929243&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-6
AMD Ryzen 7 2700X $189
https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=ryzen&qid=1574928763&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-1
AMD Ryzen 7 2700 $159
https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B41717Z/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=ryzen&qid=1574929088&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-2
AMD Ryzen 5 2600X $145
https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428V2L/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=ryzen&qid=1574929122&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-7
AMD Ryzen 7 3800X $397
https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-3800X-16-thread-processor/dp/B07SXMZLPJ/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=ryzen&qid=1574929122&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-8
It's actually only $20 off if you look at other vendors like newegg or amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-3600X-12-Thread-Processor/dp/B07SQBFN2D/
(but oh my god -$100 for a deal #IgnoreThisLine)Just my opinion, I am no expert, but these seem like the best choices as they are popular, and consideration how much work it would take to design them.
Also check the most popular on Amazon, Newegg and PC part picker.
CPUs from one socket look almost the same right?
So a LGA 1151 and AM3+ CPUs.
For RAM, classic PCB with black chips, maybe another one with a very simple heatspreader in different colors, as it would take quite a lot of work to create realistic heatspreaders for little benefit IMO.
Any HDD, they all look similar.
For SSDs, Samsung are the most popular and very simple to do.
Three most popular CPU coolers prolly are CRYORIG H7, Hyper 212 EVO, and Corsair H100i, maybe with addition of a single fan AIO like Corsair H55.
GPUs are tougher:
Motherboards and cases: the hardest parts to pick, almost every one part is completely different from the other.
Just go by the most popular.
Anything I forgot?
3900X: https://www.amazon.de/AMD-Ryzen-3900x-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07SXMZLP9/ref=sr_1_1?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=3900x+amd&qid=1562017893&s=gateway&sr=8-1
3800X: https://www.amazon.de/AMD-Ryzen-3800x-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07SXMZLPJ/ref=sr_1_2?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=3800x+amd&qid=1562017903&s=gateway&sr=8-2
3700X: https://www.amazon.de/AMD-Ryzen-3700x-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07SXMZLPK/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=3700x+amd&qid=1562017931&s=gateway&sr=8-3
3600X: https://www.amazon.de/AMD-Ryzen-3600x-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07SQBFN2D
3600: https://www.amazon.de/AMD-Ryzen-3600-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07STGGQ18
3200G: https://www.amazon.de/AMD-Ryzen-3200G-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07STGHZK8
$230 on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-3600X-12-thread-processor/dp/B07SQBFN2D/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=
Or don't and get a raspberry pi and put Kodi on it.
Here^1 is^2 everything^3 you^4 need to make a KodiPi with enough space to put a bunch of movies on (if you wish, otherise just get a smaller mSD). About the same price as a brand new roku, but you can do a lot more with it, and it's open source so you could do whatever you wanted with the device.
Naa, the scams are real but they did not buy from Amazon. They bought from a seller on amazon. Those two are not the same thing. Look how many sellers are there for just the 8700K. The first one is Amazon but everything below them are independent sellers.
These all the first results on amazon in the motherboard section. All have a PS/2 port. So yes. I could use my 10-year-old PS/2 mouse on a new computer.
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-LGA1151-Intel-Motherboard-GA-H110M/dp/B0165YUDTM/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481993246&sr=1-1&keywords=motherboard
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Skylake-B150-Motherboard-M3/dp/B014YN6732/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481993246&sr=1-2&keywords=motherboard
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-970-GAMING-DDR3-Motherboard/dp/B00LUY72F6/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481993246&sr=1-3&keywords=motherboard
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Z170-A-ATX-DDR4-Motherboards/dp/B012NH05UW/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481993246&sr=1-4&keywords=motherboard
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Intel-Micro-Motherboard-H81M-E33/dp/B00F42W70A/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481993246&sr=1-5&keywords=motherboard
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-X99A-GAMING-PRO-CARBON/dp/B01GIUYPHE/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481993246&sr=1-6&keywords=motherboard
How does this look? Board checks all the requirements, and the CPU comes in at a very low 25w TDP, which is great for a system that will be running 24/7. In addition, the board comes with a PCI-E slot, so if you need more SATA ports than the 4 it comes with, you can buy one of these.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD 5350 2.05Ghz Quad-Core Processor | $34.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock AM1B-ITX Mini ITX AM1 Motherboard | $34.99 @ Micro Center
Memory | Crucial 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $12.99 @ SuperBiiz
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $82.97
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-28 00:01 EDT-0400 |
AMD Ryzen 5 3600X $229
https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-3600X-12-thread-processor/dp/B07SQBFN2D/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=RYZEN&qid=1574929243&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-6
AMD Ryzen 7 2700X $189
https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=ryzen&qid=1574928763&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-1
AMD Ryzen 7 2700 $159
https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B41717Z/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=ryzen&qid=1574929088&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-2
AMD Ryzen 5 2600X $145
https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428V2L/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=ryzen&qid=1574929122&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-7
AMD Ryzen 7 3800X $397
https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-3800X-16-thread-processor/dp/B07SXMZLPJ/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=ryzen&qid=1574929122&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-8
You need:
Optional:
Download RetroPie
Follow video here:
https://retropie.org.uk/documentation/installing-retropie/
Might I add, you can setup SSH on the retropie, so you can connect to the machine and upload ROMs without having to use a USB keyboard. Google for old ROMs, I've used LoveROMs in the past.
Total build time ~1-2 hours. Total cost $30 - $65.
The favorite 970 is in stock now: http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Graphics-GV-N970G1-GAMING-4GD/dp/B00NH5T1MS
Hey! It looks like you've got a pretty solid build started here! I just want to point out a few things to make your life just a little bit easier.
So there ya go! I hope that you enjoy your new build, it's going to be amazing! If you PM me I'll add you on Steam and we can play some games together when your build is all set!
Delivery is currently 15 July.
When a 1080 can be had for $120 more right now this seems like such a bad buy, even if it's below current market pricing for it.
You could use a tutorial here. It is a lot easier to do than it seems. I will tell you, you need a keyboard, Raspberry Pi 3, and an SD Card. Once you get that, here is where you can download it.. Then, just follow the instructions on Instructable. You really do not have to pay someone, it is a lot easier than it seems. If you want, you can even get a retro case (or normal one like I did) and get a retro controller. PM me if you need more help (I won't charge you if you need help, it is really easy)!
Edit: Ill do yo a bigger favor. Here are the things you will need
Raspberry Pi 3
Raspberry Pi 3 Charger Kit. A powerful phone charger or micro usb adapter should work, but someone can let me know if I am wrong.
SD Card Raspberry Pi 3
Keyboard, though, you probably have one of these at home
Retro Controller, not required, but recommended
You will need at least an 8 GB SD Card, but I recommend 32 GB
I'd recommend one of Intel's new Apollo Lake boards:
https://www.amazon.com/ASRock-Rack-J3710-ITX-Motherboard/dp/B01E97ZTPA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483672973&sr=8-4&keywords=J3455
Paired with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Controller-Non-Raid-SI-PEX40064/dp/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483673132&sr=8-1&keywords=sata+PCI+3.0
You'll have 8x SATA slots.
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Windforce OC $499
>Always spend at least 100$ on a good power supply.
The fuck is wrong with you. A decent $60 will do just fine for MOST builds you'll see here.
Just don't buy super cheap $30 trash or things suspiciously cheap.
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Continuous-Warranty-120-G1-0650-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=sr_1_27?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1462332888&sr=1-27&keywords=power+supply
Would be more than enough with 10 year warranty UNDER $100
Don't always spend "at least $100"
You don't know wtf you're talking about.
How do you know a cheaper psu wouldn't have saved your PC from either? Legitimately how do you seem to know for sure?
Assuming you are talking about R-Pi, v3b.
All 32 bit and lower works flawlessly. This includes but is not limited to Genisis, GB, GBC, GBA, NES, SNES, PSX.
N64 is the most commonly discussed as it has a large library of great games that are also often 4x multiplayer. Most games work very well (e.g. Mario Kart), while some do not (in particular 007 Goldeneye).
Hardware:
Total cost so far, $75. You can get a less expensive case that also comes with the heat sinks bringing your cost down to ~$65.
Cheap right? Well, the one thing that is going to cost you the most in any of these builds is the controllers.
I like:
When I first bought them, they were $36 each, and I love them. They work really well via the Pi's built in Bluetooth.
Another great option that works really well are the XBOX-360 controllers. Wired ones run you $27 each brand new, and wireless are $34/each, plus one adapter for the set.
In other words, four good controllers are going to run you $100-$200. Which is the bulk of most builds. In a childs-only build, I am considering either wired XBOX-360 controllers because of their awesome cord break-away feature, or going even less expensive with the $12 SNES clones, though that eliminates the ability to play N64 and PSX.
​
|mobo|$290|AORUS Z390 Master|
|:-|:-|:-|
|gpu|$700|AORUS 1080 ti Xtreme|
|ram|$360|G.Skill TridentZ RGB 4x8 3200 Mhz|
|cpu|$360|Intel i7 8700k 5Ghz OC|
|psu|$156|Corsair RM1000i Gold|
|nvme|$138|Samsung 970 EVO 500GB 2280 SSD|
|case|$150|Corsair Obsidian 500D|
|fans|$56|Corsair SP120|
|rgb fans|$110|Corsair LL120 RGB|
|cables|$105|CableMod PRO ModMesh C-Series RMi|
|240 rad|$66|EKWB EK-CoolStream SE 240 Slim Dual|
|360 rad|$90|EKWB EK-CoolStream PE 360 Dual|
|gpu wb|$165|EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus RGB - Nickel|
|gpu bp|$47|EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus Backplate - Nickel|
|cpu wb|$72|Phanteks Glacier C350i|
|kit|$60|Thermaltake PETG 16mm OD Bending Kit|
|pump|$100|EKWB EK-D5 PWM G2 Pump|
|res|$126|Watercool HEATKILLER Tube 200 D5|
|res top|$21|Watercool HEATKILLER Multiport Top 200|
|stand|$19|Watercool HEATKILLER Stand (Long)|
|riser|$27|Thermaltake PCI-E x16 3.0 Riser Cable 200mm|
|coolant|$56|XSPC EC Opaque White Coolant (qty 2)|
|fittings|$54|Thermaltake Pacific 90 Degree Adapters|
|fittings|$110|Thermaltake Pacific 16mm Compression Fittings (qty 2)|
|fittings|$26|Bitspower 5mm Male to Male 4-Pack|
|fittings|$20|Barrow Stop Plug 4-Pack|
|fittings|$15|Thermaltake Stop Plug 4-Pack|
|fittings|$14|XSPC Ball Valve|
|tubing|$40|Thermaltake 1000mm V-Tubler PETG 16mm 4-Pack|
|paste|$40|Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut|
|isopropyl|$18|NTE Isopropyl 99.9%|
|bottle|$11|1000ml fill bottle|
|foam|$13|1/4 inch thick foam insulation|
|heat gun|$25|Furno 300 Heat Gun|
||$3649||
||||
|mouse pad|$26|Reflex Lab XXXL 36" x 18" Mouse Pad|
|chair|$175|Techni Mobili RTA-5004-BK Rta-5004-Bk Office Chair|
|arm pads|$18|Aloudy Ergonomic Memory Foam Arm Covers|
|monitor|$900|Acer Predator x34p Ultrawide QHD G-Sync|
|stand|$100|AmazonBasics Premium Single 25lb Monitor Stand|
|cable|$18|Accell DisplayPort 1.2 Cable 10ft|
||$4886||
||||
|mouse|$50|Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum RGB|
|keyboard|$110|https://www.amazon.com/MODEL-Corsair-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B00N2ROO2S|
||$5046||
​
Assuming it was off when it got wet, it may be ok if you let it dry out completely. Of course modern power supplies are not really off, unless they are unplugged. Even then there is a small amount of current being supplied to the real time clock via the coin cell battery on the motherboard.
If it does not start up when dry it is possible it is just the power supply that is dead / blown fuse. The motherboard and cards / drives may still be fine.
The fuse in the power supply is not considered user serviceable so don't open it. If it is dead just toss it. They make ATX power supply testers and you can find them for cheap on Amazon.
-- EDIT --
Here is a power supply tester
Sorry in advance if this is a bit of a spammy post, it's been growing in each topic I put it in as I assemble more and more info for people.
I've posted about this in a couple different threads so I'll just copypasta some of it here.
The cost for my setup, not including the drives (of which I had quite a few laying around from other builds) and an unRAID Pro License, was about $800 all together.
It can do pretty much everything you've asked except maybe Live TV PVR, but that's only because of a limitation in the Plex unRAID Docker itself. So if you plan on running Plex in the Docker that's gonna be the case no matter what you end up running it on hardware wise.
I have about 40 friends around the globe who regularly access my server and the only real bottleneck I've encountered is my upload speed when too many streams are pushing out at once.
__
You can make a good unRAID rig for FAR cheaper if you simply use older server components, for example:
SuperMicro X8DT3-LN4F Motherboard ($89.99)
2x Intel Xeon X5650 LGA1366 CPU's ($43.48 each)
EVGA SuperNOVA 650 Watt 80 Plus Gold Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99)
Some DDR3 ECC Server RAM, Usually pretty cheap ($24.00)
Then you just need any EATX capatible case, any two LGA1366 coolers, and any drives you want. All together your probably looking at no more than $600-700 for a system that will likely preform the same if not better than the setup you posted but will have 12-Cores (24 Hyper-threaded) @ 2.66Ghz
I should point out that I ALREADY have this style of setup working with unRAID, so this is not theory but a proven concept. I found as many of the original sources that I used as I could, but I made this a while ago so not all were current. Either way tho, the price for doing this kind of setup only tends to go DOWN over time, so it will only get easier to put together. Heck I've seen some sales of the X8DT3-LN4F Motherboard that come with RAM & CPU's already, so you might be able to pick up a complete setup for about the same cost as getting it piece by piece.
__
The only thing I would really add to the above is that the SAS module on the above motherboard actually has issues with operating Drives larger than 2TB, so If you want to add more than the 6 SATA 3TB+ drives that the Mobo nativly supports, your gonna need a PCIe SATA expansion card, such as This One that I ended up using.
I also have had some boot issues with the SAS function enabled in general, so if you do end up going with the above board I would just leave it disabled.
Also I would highly recommend watching most of Space Invader One's unRAID tutorial videos. Especially the ones about Docker CPU pinning and optimization plugins.
__
On my current setup I am running:
Dockers --
Plex, PlexPy (Plex Statistics and Notifications, I'm using it to run a Discord Bot that announces when new things are added on the server to friends), Omni (Plex Request System), Radarr, Sonarr, Jackett (Lets Radarr & Sonarr search private & public torrent trackers automatically), Deluge (Bittorrent Client), OpenVPN (For secure remote access over VPN) & Krusader (File Manager, Booted on Demand)
VMs --
Windows 8.1 VM (As a VNC GUI remote interface and to run ExtractNow to automatically deal with rared or zipped media torrents) & Windows 10 VM (Passing through a GTX970 and being used as a Steam In-Home streaming Client. Hooked directly up to a 4K TV so I can stream games from my main High End Gaming Rig to my TV. Booted on Demand)
Plugins --
A Bunch from the Community Applications Suite (Auto Turbo Write Mode, Auto Update Applications, Backup/Restore Appdata, Cleanup Appdata, Config Editor), Several Dynamix Plugins (Cache Directories, File Integrity, SSD TRIM, System Information, System Statistics), Fix Common Problems, Nerd Tools, Tips and Tweaks, Unassigned Devices, unBALANCE, User Scripts
Drives --
Nine 3TB HDDs (1 For Parity & 8 For Storage), One 120GB SSD (Cache)
__
Looks like you can get a refurbished X8DT3-F for about $120. The only real difference between the X8DT3-F and X8DT3-LN4F is if they have 2 or 4 Gigabit Ethernet Ports.
I actually have all 4 of mine connected to a high speed switch then into my router as a load balanced bond (effectively getting 4xGigabit speeds, at least within my LAN, which IS useful when streaming 4K games from my gaming PC to the server's client VM) but for most setups both boards are effectively equivalent.
380 vs 530 is double?
9900k https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005404P9I
8700k https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-8700K-Desktop-Processor-Unlocked/dp/B07598VZR8/
This deal is still going. An EVGA 450bt for 22 with no MIR. This is a better deal imo.
450bt for $22 on amazon
Hey p_orsk,
So glad to hear that we have another HomeLabber in our midst. I just thought I would take a minute and share with you my current build that has suited me very well. It is completely silent and power efficient, while still powerful enough to do what you want plus more. My build was also built to be small profile so this build is built around a Micro-ITX case. This build cost me $500 in the US in 2017, don't quite know what the price would be now.
As I said, this build should be completely silent. I went into the BIOS settings and turned it on Power-Saver mode for good measure, which makes things run a bit warmer, but keeps fan speeds down.
I didn't list storage here, as it sounds like you got that covered. This motherboard also supports M.2 if you want to add that later.
If I can make one suggestion, I would highly recommend getting into Virtualization. My poison of choice is Proxmox. I could really get into this, but it really helps when you are trying to expand.
If you have any other questions, feel free to comment on this post, or shoot me a DM. I would be happy to help!
[EDIT] This is just my experience. You will get 110 different answers from 100 different people in this world. You kinda just have to tinker to get what works for you.
It's the official raspi screen, 7" with about a 1" border and is essentially plug n' play into the raspi. I also found this random bamboo case for the screen which I like a lot. I also need a slightly more powerful power supply for the raspi and screen together.
What you'll need:
Again, there are some very optional parts above. It can be as cheap or expensive as you want. Also, I'm not getting into controllers. Those will throw the budget in every direction possible.
For the price i'd suggest the EVGA 450W BT instead
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-Warranty-Supply-100-BT-0450-K1/dp/B01N9X3F8F
I wouldn't doubt it as the CX PSUs are pretty horrible.
What light exactly are you referring to though? The power button light on the case? No other lights come on on the motherboard or anything? No fans turn on (literally none of them?)? If the PSU was completely dead you'd likely see no lights at all, but that doesn't mean the PSU isn't the problem.
You can test the PSU with paperclip method to confirm if it's indeed the problem or if you want to fork up a few dollars you can buy a PSU tester. Something like THIS would work.
it's hardly relevant, but that last one is there because those plastic packages are annoying and sometimes the thing inside those clamshell packages are used for PC repair, such as a flash drive. it also has a box cutter, a little screwdriver you can use as a backup, and the clippers work really well on zip ties, which can sometimes be useful with PC parts, as wires are sometimes zip tied together.
everything else is basically all you'll need to diagnose and fix any problems you may have with a PC. as long as the PSU connectors and motherboard are working, you can figure out any other hardware failure. Dr. Web will cure almost any viruses you can't kill in safe mode with Malwarebytes, and Ultimate Boot CD has many diagnostic tools that from my experience, can help pinpoint nearly any other issue.
I feel like I've forgotten one of my other diagnostic tools. I might be thinking of my PC Login Now disc and my XP Black CD. but I can't legitimately link you to those. most subreddits frown upon linking to anything even remotely related to piracy. I think I covered everything else.
and depending on how advanced with repair you plan to go, you might want a soldering kit as well, but I doubt you'll do anything on that level. I don't even solder anything, and I plan on doing computer repair for a living.
/u/JetJaguar124 /u/Integralds
So first thing's first, Windows: ~$130 for Home Edition.
Okay, so things to keep in mind:
The GPU you should be seeking to use is the 1660 Ti, which is basically a slightly gimped RTX 2060 but without the raytracing stuff. If you are willing to spend a bit more then you could get an RX 5700 instead, which is nearly ~30% faster on average.
That'll put you at $270 - $360 depending on the model you pick. Yes, it's a third of your budget, but the GPU is the single most important part of your build.
Secondly you'll want a decent CPU to go with that.
The Ryzen 5 3600 looks like a pretty good CPU, its a bit under $200, its fairly beefy and extendable so it's somewhat "future-proof" - in that it shouldn't cause much bottlenecking and you could upgrade your GPU past a 2080 Ti before needing to change the processor.
This MSI Tomohawk Mobo looks good for the 3600.
So we're at ~$320 for that, or about $640 total. Plus windows that is ~$730.
The RAM Inty recommended before should be fine. You only really need 16 GB. This will set you back ~$80. If you find yourself wanting more RAM later down the line you can always add another pair of sticks later and double up your RAM.
That puts us at around ~$800.
$80 for a 750W Fully Modular Corsair PSU is basically a steal. It's refurbished though, although that shouldn't be a problem - especially with a PSU.
We're at ~$880.
Some good thermal paste for your CPU.
We're now at ~$890.
Storage depends on what you want to do. Do you install a lot of stuff and files at once? In which case you might want to get a nice sized SSD plus a big HDD.
For your system drive. Plenty of space, good price, AND its an nvme SSD.
That makes for ~$990.
If you need lots of extra space
If you need extreme extra space
Keyboard and case are up to you, decide as you please. For the case just make sure that it can support an ATX mobo, as the mobo listed here is full ATX. Mechanical keyboards are crack, but they tend to be more expensive so they're probably out of range. This will be another $100 to $150 depending on what you pick.
Something to keep in mind though: Your case and your monitors are basically "future proof". In other words, they won't really get "worse" with time or cause future performance issues. So monitors and case are things where you want to consider what you'll eventually want and buy ahead, even if you have to stretch a bit.
This just leaves your monitor. I would NOT recommend a 1080p monitor above 24 in. Honestly, if you can go for a 1440p monitor then do it. I'm a bit of a resolution whore tho, so if 1080p works for you then that's fine. I would also avoid TN panels - they tend to look more washed out, tinny, and have worse viewing angles . . . although they also tend to be a fair bit cheaper than the good panels (namely IPS panels).
I used to own one of these . . . it was vvy vvy gud. This is a relatively artsy monitor, so if color gamut correctness or whatever is important for you for photo or video editing or whatever, then this is a good pick. It's a bit expensive, yeah, but also super gorgeous. It also goes up to 75 Hz. Conversely, get a freesync monitor, and this one is probably good - haven't done much research on it, but Dells are generally pretty good in my experience (my current 4K monitor is a Dell too). Freesync will allow you to basically eliminate screen tearing and will provide a smoother feeling experience because it will even out frame rates better.
One last thing to keep in mind: Shopping around on ebay and other sites can save you a fair bit. My rule of thumb is to never, ever buy sensitive parts like hard-drives, cpus, or motherboards second hand or refurbished. But everything else is fair game. So refurbished GPUs, Monitors, PSUs, Cases, etc. should be fine. Pre-owned? Ehhh . . . that I'm much, much more sketchy on - personally I wouldn't, but that's just me.
So in total it'd be somewhere in the range of $1500 including monitor, OS, case, and keyboard. The system itself is around $1000. But you can perhaps knock off a hundred bucks or two by shopping around and looking for where you can buy these parts cheaper than Amazon.
But again: investing in a good monitor and case can be worth it. It means you won't have to replace it if/when you do upgrade. And worst case scenario you can offload your monitor as a side/secondary monitor when you upgrade your monitor to a new one.
$229 on Amazon right now for 24 hours.
Mine had a noisy fan out of the box so I just took it apart and replaced the fan with a nice noctua the same day This one
Raspberry Pi 2: $35
SNES controller adapter: $11
32 GB MicroSD card: $10
Power Supply: $10
Case: $7
RetroPie: $0
The ability to play your favorite games forever: Priceless
Also 17.99 on amazon
What's the difference between the 450BV and the 450BT?
Estimated Total $1736 +tax and shipping
There're a few areas you could scrimp to get to $1500. This is basically my build, but I went with 4 nodes, a bigger switch, and a cheap 4 pack of longer cables (10gtek's 4 packs have a decent discount). If the price of the Intel 660p has your attention for multiple capacity drives, I suggest an x470 or x570 mobo that can do x4x4x4x4 bifurcation on the x16 slot and then use a quad m.2 board without a PCIe switch for them (ones from ASUS and ASrock are ~$100 which can negate any cost savings). There are boards with a PCIe switch that will work with the above board, but they're very expensive.
If you get a MikroTik switch, use RouterOS because SwOS apparently has bugs beyond what I experienced. If you get one of their PoE switches, be careful with non-PoE devices. Mine was working fine, but I triggered a bug in SwOS and it toasted some gear; I need to have a conversation with MikroTik and the seller to see what can be done about what got toasted.
You can buy it in Amazon for $414 plus tax... the only catch is that you have to wait later this month.
Amazon Price
Sold by Amazon
Intel BX80684I78700K 8th Gen Core i7-8700K Processor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07598VZR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KnHEAbBE0M0EZ
So, is this actually happening to 1080's now, a small trend, or just an anomaly because all other GPUs aren't available?
I don't tend to follow GPU stock once I buy one. Checking Newegg/Amazon does show low stock and a lot of other "offers" that are high. GTX1080's north of $600.
But, then on Amazon I see this regularly priced card (though OOS):
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Windforce-GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD-Graphics/dp/B01IR6LMLO/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1500306667&sr=1-3&keywords=gtx+1080
Hmm.
EDIT: Browsing my local CL - I do see 2 posts of the "Looking for GPUs" variety, and they now include the gtx1080 in the list. I also see 2 1080's for $550-600. But, then I see two other 1080's for a more normal ~$400-500.
I don't know what to think...
You expect someone to pay £500 for essentially a 'used' card?
I'd sooner purchase this!
Proper buyer protection with solid customer service and a full warranty. Not sure you can get away with charging that price, hell I picked up a brand new GTX 1080ti for £582 on Amazon two weeks ago...
Its also on Amazon for $644.99 with free shipping but it is in stock on September 11.
Here are the instructions for redeeming the code
I setup and produced a setup similar to this. Here's what I used on a budget to get pretty fantastic quality IMO.
Two Sony A6000 ~$600 each
Roland V-1HD video swithcher ~$974
Elgato HD60s capture card ~$160
That's ~$2,600 but you'll still need a decently spec'd laptop, camera mounts, cables, etc.
Here's a link to the podcast so you can see the quality.
I also used a Atomos Ninja Flame and a Teradek Vidiu Pro, but those are unnecesasry for the end goal. The Ninja Flame is great for back up recording and real time color-correction, but also is an extra $700 or so...
Good luck!
Not sure what your definition of cheap is but the Elgato ones are probably the easiest to use:
HD60 - $150
HD60s - $180
The Elgato HD60S is very popular for 1080p HDMI capture, and is about as cheap as you'll get without going to no-name Chinese brands. If you want 4K support for future-proofing you'll need to spend a bit more.
Use an Elgato capture tool and record yourself with green screen.
Oh sorry, just from looking through the recent history i found that this was one of the lowest prices for a 1080, especially one that ships to canada. I did see the Jet deal and others similar to it but this is essentially a repost of this after it came back in stock, as it was posted here before.
Things like this are constantly getting posted here at the same price so i figured why not especially since this ships to canada (through newegg, which has the same deal but converted to CAD) Here are some examples of similar deals:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125880
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FX2KS6U/
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Windforce-GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD-Graphics/dp/B01IR6LMLO/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1500227696&sr=1-4&keywords=gtx+1080
Er, not talking about used at all.
Plenty of $500 1080s to be had:
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Windforce-GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD-Graphics/dp/B01IR6LMLO/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1503276125&sr=1-4&keywords=gtx+1080
And the $400 1080s are also new!
https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/search?q=gtx+1080&sort=relevance&restrict_sr=on&t=month
Many deals just in the last month well under $500 BNIB of course.
if you looking for the cheapest 1080 right now then theres a gigabyte 1080 windforce up for 659 or the g1 edition for 690
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01IR6LMLO/
gonna come down to company preference at these price ranges
If you just want something inexpensive that will still allow you to saturate gigabit lan you could get this card that uses pci-e x1.
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZ9T3OU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
Well the other day Rasberry Pi 3 Model B was $28 w/ free Shipping so:
Raspberry Pi- $28
32GB SD card- $13
2.5A Power Supply- $10
Heatsinks- $5
Case- $8
HDMI Cable- $7
_____
Total- $ 71
I'd say it's an okay deal. I'd rather buy it bundled anyway, just so it all arrives at once.
For someone just starting out I think the first, best thing you can do is head on over to https://pcpartpicker.com/list/.
It's a system builder that lists parts, allows you to search through products and price out a virtual build before you start buying.
One good thing is that is check for compatibility between the different parts you choose so you don't run into any trouble. Like if you start off by picking an AMD processor when you go to search for a motherboard it will only list AMD boards (instead of Intel boards) and only boards that work with that chip.
So it's a great resource for first time builders to start getting a better understanding of the parts they need.
As far as MicroCenter it's hands downs the best place to go to buy your CPU & motherboard because of the combo deal. Check their website for some of the other parts you need because they might also offer a discount with those, for things such as SSDs, GPUs, and ram.
But I would also look around (for parts other than your CPU & mobo) on sites like Amazon and Newegg to try and find the best price for your chosen parts.
WARNING: Never buy a monitor from Newegg. Their return policy is garbage, you need to have something like 8 dead pixels for them to do a return. For other items though you can sometimes find good deals.
Also start browsing around on /r/buildapcsales. You'll see some deals but also be sure to read the comments. You'll get on the ground insight from users as to what the good products and the good companies are. I knew nothing about building PCs when I started and I learned almost everything passively just by browsing that sub every day while I looked for deals on parts I needed.
Right now $1500-$2000 can get you a very beefy machine, but there are a lot of choices you're going to have to make as far as what type of machine you want to build.
And I think the first question needs to be do you want to prioritize performance or aesthetics. Now that might sound silly but building your first PC is going to open Pandora's box and once you join the community and start seeing other people's builds there's a good chance you'll find yourself dreaming of having your own glass box with pretty lights one day.
Check out /r/battlestations to see what I'm taking about. You'll see some gorgeous machines there.
Now building a nice looking machine doesn't mean you'll be running a piece of under powered crap, it just means that, staying within a budget, sometimes you'll shave a little off the top in terms of overall performance for something that might make you smile when you look at it. Like spending a bit extra on some 3200Mhz RGB ram modules over some 3600Mhz non RGB sticks. One is faster and cheaper, one is a bit slower and much prettier.
Aesthetics are very important to some people, so ask yourself if you care about that. If you don't that works too! You can put the extra money towards more performance and shove all your shit into a windowless black box that you never have to see.
After that you're going to need to figure out which type of CPU you want, Intel or AMD. The chasm of competition and fanboy-ism that separates these two is as wide as Mac vs PC. Here Intel is Mac and AMD is PC. Intel is the powerful, fancy, over priced company with very good products and some very shitty anti-consumer practices. AMD is the cheeky underdog upstart that does a lot of things better and for much cheaper but also can be plagued with issues.
For someone just starting out I would suggest buying the entry level CPU for the current generation of chips. For Intel I think that would be the i5 9600k (don't quote me on that, I know less about Intel than AMD) and for AMD I would suggest looking at the Ryzen 5 3600x. I'm suggesting the slightly more expensive version of their base model because it comes with a better stock cooler and it's slightly faster right out of the box without having to manually tune it which might be difficult for a beginner.
Now there are more powerful, more expensive CPUs you can buy that have more CPU cores, but mostly these don't really benefit gaming all that much. You're usually much better off spending extra money on on your GPU since that is what is going to power your games.
For GPUs it's a very similar story of competition, except here it's AMD (yes they make GPUs too) vs NVidia. Same story though with NVidia playing the part of Mac. These are a little harder to blindly recommend without knowing more about your build (like what type of monitor you want) but I'll give you three safe options.
Now comes the question of monitors. I did another right up all about monitors that breaks down the basics. It should give you a solid base of understanding a show you the relation between your monitor and you GPU, basically you don't want to spend a whole lot on a fancy monitor that can display a game at 144 FPS if you buy a less expensive GPU that can only run the game at 80 FPS. You also need to decide on size, smaller screens with lower resolution will need less powerful GPUs to get good FPS, larger screens and higher resolutions need something more powerful. Once you start to know more about what you want you can find the sweet spot balance between your monitor and you GPU.
Gonna end there cause I'm sure that's a lot to take in.
Feel to to PM with any questions and enjoy your first build!
Ever heard of saving your money? $40 is quite a bit and adds up quickly if it's a recurring amount.
For $40 though, it's more of being able to upgrade parts that you might get. an i5-7500 vs an i5-7600k is a $40 difference.
Upgrading from a regular cpu fan to watercooling is <$40.
Although mining has ruined the prices, upgrading from a gtx 1050 to a 1050ti is <$40
8GB of ram is just over $40.
Prices on the 1070 are jacked right now - they were $330 on May 1 and
$480$430 on amazon today???Edit: sample: https://camelcamelcamel.com/EVGA-GeForce-GAMING-Support-08G-P4-5173-KR/product/B01KVZBNY0
That's pretty good ST performance. The i7-8700k at around 4.7GHz has a CB score of 1447 (MT), 208 (ST).
So a slight dip in single-threaded performance for individual cores but a massive gain in multi-core performance.
I believe they are supposed to be in the same price range so it's definitely a good value in comparison to Intel.
The Russian price is 23,050 Russian Ruble which is approximately $396.46 US Dollar at current exchange rates. Russia automatically includes 18% sales tax on the price. So $396.46 / 1.18 gives us $335.98 without any taxes.
For my area sales tax would be 9.5% so I would have to pay $367.90.
Comparatively an i7-8700k is $349.99 on average. Though Amazon right now has dipped in the past 2 hours to $329.00. I'll just estimate based on both. $383.24 and $360.26 respectively.
AMD Ryzen 2700X(OC 4.4GHz) | Intel Core i7-8700K(OC 4.7 GHz)
--------------------------|-------------------------------
ST: 186 | ST: 208
MT: 2004 | MT: 1447
Cost(Pre-Tax): $335.98(Estimate) | Cost(Pre-Tax): $329.00-$349.99
Both Amazon and Walmart are currently selling them new for $313.05. Have to pay tax on them though.
Amazon
Walmart
> Your CPU and motherboard are 2 generations behind, and nobody wants to buy a 7000 series chip unless absolutely dirt cheap, not when the 8000 and 9000 series exist with 2 more physical cores for almost the same price. Change that to an 8700k for best value.
So, would this CPU work fine?
&#x200B;
>Asus makes strix motherboards with built in 802.11ac adapters. If you need wifi, just get one of those. Even has a fully repositionable antenna. I have one, works great.
&#x200B;
And this motherboard?
It's a $200 CPU he was saying $500 for everything else besides the 1080. So $500 - $200 CPU is $300 of PSU, Windows, RAM, HDD, Keyboard and Mouse, and a case and not to mention the Warranty that comes with it. It's not a terrible deal
$56 normally, was $44 on Amazon, and now further decreased to $42.
I believe it's the cheapest LGA1151 motherboard you can buy.
You can probably still manage with the old PSU, but upgrading would definitely serve you well. My suggestion would be the [EVGA 650 GQ] (https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Modular-Crossfire-Warranty-210-GQ-0650-V1/dp/B017HA3SQ8/), good efficiency and around $75
Here
Specs:
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $204.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | ASRock H110M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard | $67.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $68.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Hitachi Ultrastar A7K3000 2TB 64MB Cache 7200RPM SATA III (6.0Gb/s) | $53.88 @ Amazon
Storage | KingDian 120GB With 128M Cache Internal Solid State Drive|$36.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | PNY GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB Video Card | $249.99 @ Amazon
Case | Cooler Master Elite 130 Mini ITX Tower Case | $42.00 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $37.48 @ Amazon
Monitor | LG 25UM58-P 25.0" 75Hz Monitor | $181.81 @ Amazon
Keyboard & Mouse | IXCC-LED Illuminated Water-Resistant Gaming Keyboard | $22.99 @ Amazon
Mouse pad | Spigen Gaming Mouse Pad | $7.99 @ Amazon
| PC Sub Total | $762.31
| Monitor & Peripherals Sub Total | $212.79
| Total Build Cost | $975.10
Substitute this PSU and I think it's a great build.
I would say an Elgato, https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Game-Capture-HD60-technology/dp/B01DRWCOGA/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487640919&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=elgato+game+capture+hd
Yo uso Logical Increments como guia.
GTX 1060 6GB o RX 480 para jugar ahora y un par de años en high/ultra 1080p.
La GTX 1070 es para 1440p ahora, si pensas armar con monitor de 4k o 144hz sería lo mejor, si vas por uno con freesync la 480 sin pensarlo.
Fijate que EVGA de Nvidia hubo quilombo con los thermal pads
> MSI GAMING / Gigabyte WINDFORCE van bien.
> ASUS ROG STRIX (mejor cooling) / MSI GAMING (la más silenciosa)
> XFX GTR (para oc) / Sapphire NITRO+ (mejor perf sin tocar nada)
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Windforce OC GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD Graphics Cards https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IR6LMLO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oCu2AbWQTY1XS
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 GV-N1080G1 GAMING-8GD Video Graphics Cards https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01GJEE9BG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XCu2AbV8WWHXE
GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 1080 DirectX 12 GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD 8GB 256-Bit GDDR5X PCI Express 3.0 x16 SLI Support ATX Video Card http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=14-125-880
GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 1080 G1 Gaming GV-N1080G1 GAMING-8GD Video Card http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=14-125-869
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01IR6LMLO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7Td9Ab677PDK1
replace www with smile
There's also a chrome/Ff extension you can use to automatically switch amazon to smile
Amazon has the same price if they're tax-free for you. In stock this Friday, January 6th, however.
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-GAMING-Support-08G-P4-5173-KR/dp/B01KVZBNY0
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCE8T92/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MG0733A/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4OM9R4/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A1ZTZOG/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ARHBBPS/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RORBQNW/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SDR4/
--
Pentium g4560 on a H270 board
GTX 1050 (non-ti)
120GB SSD
8GB RAM
430W EVGA PSU
Corsair Carbide case
$517 total
And now I regret not using pcpartpicker and just setting it to US & Amazon..
Maximum Total: $58
That would give you a full-fledged Plex client with all the features you mentioned (I think--someone jump in here if I'm wrong).
Look for a label bearing a reassuring phrase, such as, "Probably won't burst into flames."
You want something rated for at least 2.5 amps. (2500 mA, 2.5A)
https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/hardware/raspberrypi/power/README.md
https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4
http://www.raspyfi.com/the-best-raspberry-pi-power-supply/
http://www.raspyfi.com/power-supply-for-raspberry-pi-what-you-should-know-about/
Also available on Amazon for the same price: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-Warranty-Supply-100-BT-0450-K1/dp/B01N9X3F8F
Everytime this PSU goes on sale I make sure to buy a few of them for my builds because it's such a good deal. If you have any questions about it I'll be happy to answer :)
Comparing from 2 different sites, one from Singapure and another from US?
The price in Amazon is for I7 8700k is $349.99... actually cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-8700K-Desktop-Processor-Unlocked/dp/B07598VZR8/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=8700k&qid=1564166413&s=gateway&sr=8-1
There a really easy way to verify this.
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-BX80684I78700K-Core-i7-8700K-Processor/dp/B07598VZR8
Crazy-good CPUs
Your friends psu was for sure 100% good ? Check for 12v and 5v coming from yours. You can get a tester for this on amazon for about 12$. https://www.amazon.com/Insten-24-pin-Power-Supply-Tester/dp/B005CTCD6S
can I just switch the fan on my 212 evo with this noctua fan or any other 120mm noctua fans?
edit: follow up question, is it gonna be noticeably quieter ?
ECC support -- If the memory of your QNAP gets corrupted, then your data is lost in transit. By buying ECC Memory, I virtually guarantee that this will not happen to me. (ECC RAM is very similar in concept to RAID6 or RAID5, except instead of for disks ECC RAM is for RAM). Because the entire computer I built is out of ECC RAM, I have one more layer of assurances that the data is safe.I have unconfirmed ECC Support. Error Correction does not work on this motherboard as I hoped.
----------
So basically, my points come down to:
Bitrot is a very simple problem to understand. What happens if instead of failing, a Hard Drive starts returning bad data to you? In traditional RAID, the hard drive has NOT crashed, so parity will not be checked. The file may be corrupted despite RAID protecting you. ZFS adds more checks to protect against this problem, while traditional RAID (which most NAS uses) do not.
There are additional features that are interesting (Webserver support, Bittorrent support, DLNA server, Headless Virtualbox). But I don't plan to do anything complicated. So I'm mostly focused on reliability.
Of course, NAS4Free supports the standard NAS features. You can easily add hard drives to zpools which can then be added to datastores. Volumes can be exported with iSCSI. Datastores can be exported using CIFS / Samba for Microsoft support, NFS for Linux Support, AFP support to support Mac OSX... or all three if you got a complicated setup. QNAP, Synology and all the commercial solutions will get you at least this much, which is hugely useful.
Here's what I would do in your situation:
Put the standalone SSD devices on 6Gb+ AHCI motherboard connectors. These will do quite nicely. Motherboard AHCI slots are pretty well connected.
I'd grab a LSI SAS 9207-8i (about $100 on Amazon) and 2 x SFF-8087-SATA fanout cables (about $10 on amazon). It uses the mps driver in the base system. This combination is very, very solid and reliable. I use it myself for a media server.
You can add a second 9207-8i if you need more ports. I've found the AHCI pci cards work well too but watch the PCIe connectivity.
This device: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00AZ9T3OU cost $15.
ahci0: <ASMedia ASM1061 AHCI SATA controller> ...
ahci0: AHCI v1.20 with 2 6Gbps ports, Port Multiplier supported
Keep in mind the PCIe lane bandwidth: 1 x PCIe lane is: PCIe 1.x: 250MByte/sec, 2.x: 500MByte/sec, 3.x 985MByte/sec.
That 2 port AHCI card I linked above is 1 lane PCIe2.0. If you put 2 x SSDs on it that could do 600MB/sec each, the most it can shuffle through the motherboard connection is 500MB/sec. The LSI card is 8 lane PCIe 3.0 so that choke-point isn't there.
I'd add a second 9207-8i if I wanted to do any non-trivial amount of IO on more than 8 ports.
Also, don't set your expectations too high for L2ARC. My personal observations lead me to believe that the overheads of running it don't really pay off until you start having a L2ARC device with a good 5x to 10x performance advantage over the backend devices. YMMV of course, but I've never not been disappointed with L2ARC setups.
Personally, I over-spec system ram in preference to L2ARC.
If you still get no video output when using the motherboard vga then it's either the PSU or the motherboard.
Power supplies can turn on, make fans spin etc but still be broken. If you are not in a hurry to get it fixed, here is a simple, cheap but essential tool you can order online to tell if the PSU is working:
Power Supply Tester
If the PSU is bad, it is probably worth it to replace it. If the mobo is bad then the cheapest way would be for you to replace it yourself.
If you take it to a shop you should call a few places and get quotes. My guess is somewhere in the $150 - $300 price range depending on the mobo and what they charge for labor.
Once you know the quoted cost of repair you can decide if it's worth fixing or replacing.
$15 plus shipping is a bit high for the noctua fans when they are $20 and free shipping on Amazon and come with all the accessories. Just my 2c. GLWS
Noctua NF-F12 PWM Cooling Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00650P2ZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iuuTzbC8QFERD
So I'd do two things right off. Install some temperature monitoring software like hwmonitor or openhardwaremonitor (both are free and lightweight). Start it up, check your temps, then yank the fan (you can just disconnect the wire from the motherboard while it's running, no harm). Then watch the temperatures, preferably while you do audio stuff on the computer. It's entirely possible that the very loud fan is doing less for the temps than you think. It's also possible that that's not the fan making the noise.
If it is that fan and disconnecting it makes an unacceptable difference in temperature, Noctura makes very quiet 120mm fans for not a lot of money. Other common culprits would be GPU fans (almost always loud, and unnecessary in audio workstations) and sometimes CPU fans. If you're overclocking and the cpu fan is loud, go back to a stock clock and see if the fan gets quieter.
There's a lot to say about keeping PCs quiet, but that'd at least be a start. I'd definitely start with just yanking that fan and see what happens, might be you can get some peace and quiet for free.
If you want a quick and more expensive solution, check out Fractal Design cases. They're nicely soundproof with quiet fans and can be had fairly cheaply on sale.
Definitely the [Noctua NF-F12] (http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12-PWM-Cooling-Fan/dp/B00650P2ZC) though mind the shitty color (pun intended)
Noctua NF-F12 PWM, Premium Quiet Fan, 4-Pin (120mm, Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00650P2ZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0RkRDbZTW6395
You can buy NF-F12s for $22 on Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12-PWM-Cooling-Fan/dp/B00650P2ZC/
and NF-P12s for $16 on Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-P12-PWM-Premium-Bearing/dp/B006I6HMXI/
Yes I did, used 99% alcohol cleaned the area. I'm chalking this cooler up to garbage. Got H60 coming in next-day. So it will take the rest of this weekend off powered down. I will be praying to PCMR gods to forgive my trespasses buying that miserable CPU cooler and allowing it to unravel itself.
Stand by.
This build looks good. I built myself a similar rig last year, and it performs well. I basically agree with everything /u/MrTesla said, mutatis mutandis.
Overall though, pretty solid build. MATLAB is just an excuse to build this right? No shame in that. When it comes time to actually use MATLAB for analyses I would highly recommend converting whatever you can to MEX files. Like MrTesla mentioned, MATLAB is not the fastest tool available, and may not be the right tool if you're concerned about how long it will take to process your data. Optimizing the lang/software/code used to process your data will result in speed-ups orders of magnitude greater than simply running the same code on a more powerful machine. I experienced this first-hand; I was simulating particle diffusion on ruffled membranes in matlab using standard functions. To run one simulation (~20k steps for 1k particles) it would take about 10 minutes. I went out and build a new rig, and it went down to ~6 min. I converted some of my functions to MEX/C and it dropped to about 45 seconds.
It depends on how many ports more you need and if you have some pcie slots free. I have two sybia cards with 4 ports each, similiar to this one here - amazon link
Setup was a bit difficult. Purely because I have the 2015 rMBP 13", which is notorious for boot issues with eGPU's. Check this page which has compatibility reports on all Thunderbolt Macs: https://support.bizon-tech.com/hc/en-us/articles/210709789-Mac-compatibility-list
For other Macs it is as easy as downloading drivers and restarting (Windows). And for the Mac setup (if you want it) its as easy as installing eGPU script on the Mac side and rebooting (after you disable SIP). The 1070 won't fit unless you buy a PCIe raiser cable, and an external PSU. However the 1060 will fit if you get the single fan version. Again you will need a different PSU, see https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-06G-P4-6161-KR/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495243716&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=1060
Better off getting ($125.46 before tax
.. used, 6GB single fan) https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01IPVSGEC/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=all
If you think this is fake, then here you go
https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-06G-P4-6161-KR/product-reviews/B01IPVSGEC/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_hist_1?ie=UTF8&amp;filterByStar=one_star&amp;reviewerType=all_reviews#reviews-filter-bar
Same price on Amazon, but free same day shipping if you have prime and not having to deal with Newegg in case something goes wrong.
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Crossfire-Motherboard-B450-Tomahawk/dp/B07F7W5KJS/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3QBDTDUECIKY6&amp;keywords=b450+tomahawk+motherboard&amp;qid=1562509688&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=b450+Toma%2Caps%2C157&amp;sr=8-1
410€ for 3700x,
320€ for 3600x,
263€ for 3600...
WTF Amazon?
http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:https://www.amazon.de/AMD-Ryzen-3700x-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07SXMZLPK
http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:https://www.amazon.de/AMD-Ryzen-3600x-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07SQBFN2D
http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:https://www.amazon.de/AMD-Ryzen-3600-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07STGGQ18
I don't know much about graphics cards, but aren't the GeForce 900 series DX12?
Unless DX12 "ready" differs from DX12 "support".
I decided to try building an entry PC based on the sales on this site, this is what i have so far.
This ebay coupon still works for me – $20 off $75 ebay purchase
Part|Choice|Store|Cost|Thread
:--|:--|:--|--:|:--
CPU|I3-6100.|Ebay|$156-$36=$120|Thread
Mobo|Gigabyte GA-H110M-A|Amazon|$65-$10= $55|Thread
Ram|8GB DDR4 2400Hz|Amazon|$75-$25= $60|None.
GPU|GTX 1050Ti|Ebay.|$215-$45=$170|Thread
Case|Bitfenix Comrade Black Window ATX Mid|NCIX|$104-$69= $35|None
PSU|Corsair Builder Series Modular CX550M|Canada Computers|$90-$15-$20MIR= $55|Thread
Drive|250GB 850 evo SSD|Newegg.ca|$190-$80=$110|None
Total| | |$505-$20MIR=$485|
I used the GTX 1050Ti because people at this pricerange (Like myself) just want good cheap 1080p@60hz performance, without worrying too much about stats, or $/FPS ratios. I did see a couple other options though, either up or down ~$50 will both get you great cards for the money, letting you fiddle with the build to match your budget.
Part|Choice|Store|Cost|Thread
:--|:--|:--|--:|:--
GPU|Zotac GTX 1050 Mini|The Source|$150-$25Coupon=$125|Thread
GPU|Asus Strix RX 470|Canada Computers|$275-$15-$30MIR=$230|Thread
For people who don’t have a PC already, or even just want to upgrade
Part|Choice|Store|Cost|Thread
:--|:--|:--|--:|:--
Monitor|Samsung 22” FHD TN | Visions.ca|$180-$81=$99|Thread
OS|Windows 10 free trial|Microsoft.com|$0|None|
HDD|Seagate Baricuda 7200RPM|NCIX|$150-$50=$100|Thread
I used the free trial for about 6 months while saving up after buying my PC, everything works fine as long as you’re ok with not being able customize, and having a watermark in the bottom right. Unless they patched it, you can even change the wallpaper through the browser.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0165YUDTM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Do I get the 1070 for 289$? is that a good deal?
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-GAMING-Support-08G-P4-5173-KR/dp/B01KVZBNY0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1539505586&sr=1-1&keywords=evga%2B1070&th=1
If you prefer 80 Plus bronze, there is EVGA BT 450W on sale for $39.99 at amazon.ca
https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-Bronze-Warranty-Supply-100-BT-0450-K1/dp/B01N9X3F8F/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523121925&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=evga+450bt
324€ on amazon.es
https://www.amazon.es/Intel-i7-8700K-3-7GHz-Smart-Cache/dp/B07598VZR8
A "550W" with split 12v rails that only output a combined 384W with different amps on each rail? That's generally not a good sign.
Imo, $25 on this is a better deal ; https://smile.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0430-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4/
Or the $35 on this : https://smile.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Warranty-Tester-100-B1-0450-K1/dp/B01F5LX55K
From your other topic for anyone else interested in this kind of project:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD A6-6400K 3.9GHz Dual-Core Processor | $49.19 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-F2A68HM-H Micro ATX FM2+ Motherboard | $39.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $27.99 @ Amazon
Case | Rosewill Line-M MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $39.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA 430W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply | $29.85 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | ~$186.01
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-13 18:15 EDT-0400 |
That CPU has about 2.2k passmark score, enough for one 1080 stream (about 2k score per client). The 8gb ram is probably overkill, but it's cheap so why not. About 134 watt consumption if you run headless. Have fun :)
What power supply are you using?
I experienced freezes with my Pi 3 until I got the recommended power adapter, which puts out 2.5A @ 5V (a very non-standard configuration for a USB power supply, I might add, so if you're using a generic power adapter, you're likely not giving the Pi the power it's asking for).
Here's the recommended power supply. Might wanna take a look at the one you're using and see if it's rated for 2.5A.
I have yet to encounter any problems with this one.
the most important thing is the SD card. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Class-Micro-Adapter-MB-MC32DA/dp/B00WR4IJBE/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495118025&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=Samsung+Micro+SD+EVO%2B also a proper power supply: https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495118069&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=pi+power+supply
Ok, it's been a while since I researched this. I can tell you that all the cards work though. If I remember correctly, this card is the best for 4 internal ports. This one if you only have a 1x slot available. And this one if you also want some eSATA ports
I have all these cards in my Hackintosh I'm typing on right now without any drivers. They all support hot swap as well.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Wait a minute! I redid the build using Amazon instead of PCPartPicker. Better build for cheaper. Give me a second!
Here is the build:
Comes to a grand total (with prime shipping) of $610.28!
I am not sure. I say just don't take the risk and buy a cheap PSU, there are many great budget PSUs for around $30 like this one.
550W is overkill for this. You could go with a 300W unit or whatever is cheaper.
$29 EVGA 430W 80+
For those that have amazon Prime, I'd hop on this. I just bought one and I don't have to deal with the MIR
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0430-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481315921&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=430w+power+supply
Only $80 new on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-120-G1-0650-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491762667&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=evga+supernova+650
I was able to build everything new for just a bit over - needed to watch pricing after the fact, as some came down after I bought and got Newegg to match. There are cheaper storage solutions and cases as well, so you could get right into that $1000 area. Of course, taxes could hurt you, no sales tax for me though.
The EVGA Powersupply 650 G1 80+ Gold Cert for $70 is good, if you can get the rebate, even better, it would be $50. I bought on Newegg last week and price matched today. You could try chatting with Newegg to see if they'll match the price and if you'd still be able to get the rebate (maybe don't mention that part). Their current price is $105, it was $89.99 when I purchased. Rebate is only for Newegg purchase.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=s9_acsd_bw_wf_a_BTSmainw_cdl_32?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-4&amp;pf_rd_r=16BCMHKT6Q98M5Q5JMD2&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=1749fad4-cd02-4c84-87c1-8c721b9be7d9&amp;pf_rd_i=15201447011
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | Purchased For $129.99
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard | Purchased For $54.99
Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | Purchased For $164.99
Storage | Western Digital - Blue 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $74.99
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | Purchased For $46.99
Video Card | NVIDIA - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card | Purchased For $549.00
Case | NZXT - S340 (Black/Blue) ATX Mid Tower Case | Purchased For $36.99
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | Purchased For $50.00
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1107.94
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-03-26 09:00 EDT-0400 |
You may eed to add on OS in there as well - I was able to get a free version via educational means... look around for that opportunity. Unless you are going to just move your key (if that's possible).
I run rigs of 6x 1070s and pull 775w from the wall from dual EVGA Supernova 650w PSUs which are outlined in the wiki. This is with a +600MHz memory overclock and a 75% power limit.
Here'a a list of PSUs that have my exact example: https://www.reddit.com/r/EtherMining/wiki/hardware/psu
Separate Power supply for sure.
A pi 3 needs a beefy supply, like this one
Are you planning on using Octoprint?
It isn't difficult, don't get intimidated. You can do this in an evening without any experience. You'll need a Pi, a Pi case, a Pi power adapter, a microSD card, a monitor encoder (if you tell me which model monitor you have, I'll send you a link for the encoder for it (NOT WHICH GAME YOU HAVE -- the model numbers vary even for the same titles -- just take the back panel off and read me the model number, it's in bold white text on a sticker on the back of the monitor)), some USB encoders to plug your buttons and joysticks into the Pi (grab two of these), and two buttons to use for coin/select (you will have to do some very minor drilling into that little black diagonal panel between the kick panel and the control panel to mount these; don't be scared though, even if you mess it up, you can get a piece of 1/8" MDF and paint it black for under $5 to replace it).
For instructions on installing, see here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09DQCOr6zQM - just ignore the products he tells you to use, since you'll be using the stock joysticks and buttons and getting just the encoders. The installation for everything else is the same.
https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4
This was on page one of google. I don’t know what you are doing wrong, but I’ve found 2.5A power supplies quite easily.
it will do basic tasks but expect it to crash under any which are moderately intense
heres the 'official' one. but just look around for one where on the label it says 5v 2.5A (five volts, 2.4 amps) & the amps may be listed as 2000mA like in your picture.(1A = 1000mA)
good chance you may have one powering/charging something else =)
Look at /r/retropie - it's more focused on these projects.
At minimum, you'll want: a [Raspberry Pi 3 ($35)](
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CD5VC92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Sb.pzbAZKNASG), a case ($7-$20), a power supply ($10), an HDMI cable ($7), one or two controllers ($15-$30 each), and a micro SD card ($22 for a Class 10 64 GB). There are a lot of threads about which controllers are best - I'm a fan of the wireless 8bitdo SNES30 / SFC30 (usually cheaper on eBay).
You don't need any programming experience to set it up, though you may need to edit some configuration files to set certain things up properly. I've built 2 of these to date - they play anything up to and including PlayStation 1 consistently well. N64 is very hit and miss, though Mario Kart 64 and Kirby 64 work well.
I just got done building a new Kodi box and I have to tell you its the only thing I've ever built that's normie approved. And by that I mean my wife, kids, and a hoard of cousins.
I used a RPi 3 + LibreELEC and hats off to the LibreELEC team because the thing reboots in 17 seconds and I haven't had a single skip or buffer problem on 1080p video.
Part | Price | Link
-----|-------|-----
Raspberry Pi 3 | $41 | https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-RASP-PI-3-Model-Motherboard/dp/B01CD5VC92
Power Adapter | $10 | https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4
SD Card | $10 | https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Memory-SDSDU-032G-U46-Change-Version/dp/B00812K4V4
Case | $20 | https://flirc.tv/more/raspberry-pi-case-ke
Rii i8+ 2.4GHz Mini Wireless Keyboard | $22 | https://www.amazon.com/Rii-Wireless-Keyboard-Touchpad-Rechargable/dp/B00Z81U3YY
HDMI Cable | $06 | https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8SIJY
Ethernet Cable | $05 | https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-RJ45-Cat-6-Ethernet-Patch-Cable-10-Feet-3-Meters/dp/B00N2VISLW
OS | $00 | https://libreelec.tv
Total | $114 |
I think one of these should be on every TV.
Don't forget a good power supply or micro usb cable.
Haven't had any issues with my China 5v 3A adapter -- but I'm not OC'd - try reverting back to standard clock and see if the bolt goes away - if it does you might need to get a larger/better power supply ( I've seen a few reports saying the Canakit supply doesn't actually provide 2.5A @ 5V )
For example this review on Amazon by Chris Satterleeon April 4, 2016 ( https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4 )
He does some Testing and includes a chart which shows it and says :
"
An interesting point is where the curves cross their rated current values. The Kootek 2.0A supply crosses 2.0A at about 4.6V (2.04.6 = 9.2W). The Canakit 2.5A supply crosses 2.5A at about 4.5V (2.54.5 = 11.25W). Both of these are well below 5V. Probably high enough that the RPi won't crash, but cutting it close.
Another interesting point is where the curves cross 5.0V. The Kootek 2.0A supply crosses 5.0V at about 0.8A (0.85.0 = 4.0W). The Canakit 2.5A supply crosses 5.0V at about 1.0A (1.05.0 = 5.0W).
People who are claiming that this supply doesn't deliver 2.5A are correct - if they are expecting it to deliver 2.5A at 5.0V. But what is important is whether the supply is sufficient for the RPi 3. All I can say for sure is that it does deliver proportionally more power than a 2.0A-rated power supply that has worked fine for me with the Gen 1 RPi B+. For that reason, I'm giving it four stars. "
So by the time it hits 2.5A the voltage has dropped to 4.5V which may be the reason the lightning bolt is showing if the case adds even a small amount more of drop by using the GPIO pins for the power in !
I just built one today. The popular 2.5A power adapter is this one, which is probably on your list
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MARDJZ4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Then I bought this case, which acts as a giant heat sink and was shown to cool the CPU more then the little heatsinks
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QB6F9I0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I followed the instructions that others posted and I've been trying it out all night, with a few hiccups for certain systems (Neo Geo, Family Computer Disk System), but Google searches fixed those issues.
I'm using my Xbox One controller, which has been working great and has extra buttons for different things (like save states, which I don't think can be done an an SNES controller)
I built one earlier this year (and another for a friend):
So for about $60, you have the hardware. Assembly is easy. The software part is relatively trivial:
It works with a wide array of controllers. I use my PS4 controllers with it and it works like a champ.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B07F7W5KJS/ref=dp_olp_0?ie=UTF8&condition=all&qid=1575056757&sr=8-3
This is more accurate link. Make sure the seller is Amazon Warehouse, and remember that 20% discount is taken at check out.
I’d save a bit of money and go with a b450 board unless you absolutely need the pcie 4.0. this MSI tomahawk is good or this Gaming pro Carbon if you want wifi built in. The other things I’d swap is your ssd for an intel 660p. It’s cheaper and faster.
As for a cooler, with the black theme you’ve got going a dark rock pro 4 would look pretty sweet in there, just check compatibility with your memory for clearance.
Sharing my experience with the Tomahawk B450.
I bought it before reaching this subreddit.
List of parts bought on amazon:
Msi B450 Tomahawk
Ryzen 3600
Patriot Viper 16GB X2
Samsung NVME 1TB 970
Parts I had and reused for the build:
Zotac GTX 1060 6GB
Cooler master Master Box Case
Seasonic Modular PSU (will update later on the exact model)
Samsung 1TB HDD
Parts I bought for the Bios Flashing:
Amd AM4 Athlon 200GE with Vega geaphics
After reading some of the posts here and the updates I figured I would need an updated bios on my motherboard before connecting the 3600.
Failing to find a store/repair shop to do the bios upgrade for me I bought the cheapest AM4 I could find in my region (Israel) to do the flashing.
I assembled the PC with one RAM stick, the Athlon 200GE, No Cmos Battery, connected to the DVI port of the motherboard, inserted a USB stick with the latest Bios from the MSI website ( 7C02v1A ), started the built in flash utility of the Bios, and waited.
The flashing process took a while, so for everyone doing the flashing "blind" (with the button and the USB method) you should wait at least 10 minutes between tries.
After the process finished, I shut down the computer, unplugged the PSU, did a power release (Clicked the power button a bunch of times), and swaped the Athlon with the 3600.
Booted UP, looked at the leds on the motherboard....CPU...VGA....and stuck.
Thought maybe I failed to do anything right, and then remembered the 3600 doesnt have GPU built in.
Truned off the PC, unplugged the PSU, did a power release (Clicked the power button a bunch of times), and Inserted the GTX 1060.
Connected the DVI cable to the GPU, turned on the PC, waited for the leds. And voila, booting properly and going into bios.
&#x200B;
At this point I shut down the PC again,unplugged the PSU, did a power release (Clicked the power button a bunch of times), and plugged the rest of the components (Another RAM stick, NVME, HDD, Wireless PCIE card), did all the cable management needed and closed the case.
&#x200B;
Turned on the PC, got into Bios settings, changed some settings, mainly XMP, and booting options, and booted into the USB3 thumbdrive with WIN10 1903 install.
&#x200B;
Finished installing the OS, booting into windows, sudden restart, then again, and again???????
Windows showing error "Windows failed to start"
Trying Safe mode, windows is stable, driver issue.
Reset Bios settings, windows is stable.
Changing settings 1 by 1:
XMP - Stable
Vitrualazation - Stable
&#x200B;
Didn't pusue any more changes than that ATM.
&#x200B;
PC is working fast, no issues so far.
Will update if anything changes.
&#x200B;
TL;DR
My system works, I don't do any overclocking whatsoever, your mileage may vary.
Price History
ReviewMeta: ★★★★★ 5.0/5 from 3 valid reviews
CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
_
Rook no further, PriceKnight is here!
^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fcrws3n%2Fcpu_amd_ryzen_5_3600x_processor_38ghz_w35mb%2Fexachy6%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**
3600
3600X
3700X
3900X
&#x200B;
The 3200Gand 3800X seem to have not been stored on google's servers
Yet they have the 3600x @ 249.
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-3600X-12-Thread-Processor/dp/B07SQBFN2D/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?keywords=amd+3600x&amp;qid=1562549530&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=AMD+3600&amp;sr=8-14
Amazon has had a very weird day today.
Edit: the one you linked isn't sourced by Amazon, so that 3rd party is just milking prices.
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-3600X-12-Thread-Processor/dp/B07SQBFN2D
3600X for $200. Get it and be happy. Should play nice with existing mobo, though it would certainly appreciate some faster RAM (3200 min, 3600 preferred). Even with your current RAM it'll smoke that 1400 like a cheap cigar. 1400's barely faster than an i7-4770 from 6+ years ago.
Your GPU is a big limiting factor though, if money's limited upgrade that first. I'd swap it for a 1660 Super personally; sell it for $80 or so and you're in the same general price range as your CPU upgrade.
It is not.
200GE: Microcenter ($40) vs Amazon ($58)
2200G: Microcenter ($60) vs Amazon ($78)
1600: Microcenter ($80) vs Amazon ($101)
2700: Microcenter ($1３0) vs Amazon ($1６0)
3600X: Microcenter ($200) vs Amazon ($235)
3700X: Microcenter ($330) vs Amazon ($355)
2950X: Microcenter ($600) vs Amazon ($622)
2970WX: Microcenter ($800) vs Amazon ($915)
(this list is not exhastive but rather is to give an idea of prices across the entire price range)
And Microcenter lets you save a farther $30 when bundling with a motherboard.
Having trouble with new build.
Mobo: Gigabyte X570 Gaming X
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600X
RAM: 2x 16GB Corsair Vengeance RGB
GPU: Geforce GTX 750 ti (it's old, and the only part I haven't ordered a upgrade for yet. Upgrading next, but want to get this setup to at least power on first)
Hooked everything up with 650w PSU. RAM RGBs light up but that's all. PC won't power on. Thought it might be bad PSU, hooked up a 850w PSU I had sitting around but never actually used, same result (RGB on RAM lights up, but system won't power on). Thought it might be a bad power switch on the case, tried bypassing by connecting the power prongs with a screwdriver, nothing. Starting to think I got a bad MoBo. Any advice?
3600x has popped up so far it seems.
3600X shipped and sold by Amazon. $249.99 + tax. Comes out to about $270.
Sometimes your motherboard can get stuck in a weird state. Turn off the power at the power supply if it has a switch, if it doesn't, unplug the computer. Press the power button on the PC a few times with the power off/disconnected, then plug it back in/turn it back on and press the power button again.
If it still doesn't work, you might have a bad board or PSU. PSU testers are cheap and will help you narrow it down before you start replacing things.
There is a little tool you can order off amazon to check PSU power, but i forget the name. Lemme see if i can dig up a link
:edit: here ya go! Something like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CTCD6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2ZgHDbA853DHF
It's a very simple device that has a plugin for the PSU cables and checks the voltages.
Here is an example,
https://www.amazon.com/Insten-24-pin-Power-Supply-Tester/dp/B005CTCD6S
Something like https://www.amazon.com/Insten-24-pin-Power-Supply-Tester/dp/B005CTCD6S but his had a little LCD screen, and the model didn't have good reviews. Closer to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-jG3vqRQHM but still not what he showed me a picture of.
You could check continuity on each pin with a multimeter.
You could also use a Power Supply Tester like this one.
If you are going to Overclock, then YES you will need a 3rd party cooler.
Even at clock, my CPU was being throttled because of heat during heavy stress testing. Now, I never break 40 even at peak.
Here is what I got for my cooler. I run over clocked to 4.4 on my CPU and I never hit over 40 with this.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008N8GELA/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
A lot of people also use this, but I can't personally speak on its behalf.
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B00A0HZMGA/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1394134989&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=corsair+water+cooling
Corsair Hydro Series High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler H60 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0HZMGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vrAyxb5NMMCVA
Link to H60 http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Series-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B00A0HZMGA
I've been doing this for many years. I just run a regular Linux distro and do not run a special NAS OS. My router is the same way - just a regular Linux distro.
My general goals are low power and cheap with lots of drives. I don't generally care about size or performance.
Components:
Case: I have a full tower case I've been using for 20-ish years. For you, anything you want with 5.25" bays. Here's my old one, which is huge, but has a ton of 5.25" bays:
https://www.anandtech.com/show/383
SATA hotswap bays: I've been using 3 of these for 10+ years to give me 9 bays:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Drive-Trayless-Mobile-Backplane/dp/B000NMAZU0
3 of those gives me 9 hotswap bays. However, one thing I don't like about them is the small 40mm fans on the back. Those things seem to last 2-3 years, and with 2*3=6 of them in my case, there' always one dying and making horrible grinding noises (or completely stopped). Even worse, replacing them requires removing the bay from my case, then using a screwdriver to take apart the back of the bay. Other than the fan, the bays work great.
/u/bigdizizzle posted this and and if I were doing it over again, I'd probably give this a try hoping the larger fan dies less often (and half the fans means less failures per year).
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817995111
Motherboard + CPU: I have this:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157513
I went with this because it is a moderately powerful system (quad core with decent IO), has 3 PCIe slots (all are 2.0 1x, but one is physically 16x), USB3.0 for any external drives I might want to add, it uses normal desktop RAM, and it is very low power. The completed system, with an SSD but no hard drives, pulls 14 watts. There are smalled mITX versions, but those only give you one PCIe slot plus you have to use SODIMMs, so I suggest going with the mATX versions. Best of all, the price was right at $70 for the motherboard+CPU. Oh, and it is fanless. Some options I looked at had 40mm fans on the motherboard/CPU and past experience (my previous NAS build was with Atom330 motherboards) taught me that 40mm fans on the motherboard die or make horrible sounds quickly.
But, that motherboard is now old. Some newer, similar options, which I have not fully researched are:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157729
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157807
My J1900 and the 2 above CPUs compared:
https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare/Intel-Celeron-J1900-vs-Intel-Celeron-J3455-vs-Intel-Celeron-J4105/2131vs2875vs3159
Weirdly, the last and best one (J4105) is limited to 8GB RAM, while the lower end J3455 and my old J1900 both handle 16GB. I don't know what's up with that.
Biostar makes a nearly identical J1900 board called the J1900MH2 and I bought one of those too (for $50 open box). It's basically identical, but hotswap does not work on the two internal SATA ports. So, I used that one for my router and the Asrock (with working hotswap) became my NAS. So, beware of Biostar BIOS possibly not supporting hotswap on the internal ports. I'd stick to Asrock.
More SATA ports: The motherboard comes with 2, and then I added 3 of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZ9T3OU/
This isn't high performance, but we're talking PCIe 2.0 1x anyway. Hard drives tend to be slow anyway. These plus the internal ports gives me 14 SATA ports. These have proven reliable under Linux.
End result:
I have a NAS with 14 SATA ports, 9 hotswap bays, gigabit Ethernet, an OK (not great, not terrible) CPU, and I pull only 14 watts plus the hard drives. The USB 3.0 lets me connect a bunch of USB hard drives too.
Currently, I have 7 3.5" drives in there. I also have 9 external drives connected by USB 3.0. Those external drives are for backups, and they power on every night, perform a backup, and then power off. Those USB enclosures contain all my old junk hard drives from old computers. There is even a PATA drive still in use there. The backups array is where my old drives go to be run until they die.
My system has enough ram and CPU to run some VMs. I have one VM running a torrentbox that VPNs itself to a VPN provider, and anther VM running as a Bitcoin full node. Then, of course, the NAS is serving SMB to my regular PCs. This also runs as my "server" for various random things like MRTG, Munin, and so on.
Finally, I like that it is power efficient. That helps heat generation too.
Just within the past couple weeks, I got one of these:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817198068
I haven't installed it yet though. This is the same idea as the 3.5" bays, but for 6 hotswap 2.5" drives (SSDs) into a single 5.25" bay. My boot drive array is 5x1TB drives (RAID6) that are at 84334 hours of runtime (9.6 years) so I'm thinking it's probably about time to replace them - with SSDs. I also have 2x8TB drives in RAID1 used for mass storage (videos, etc).
Just as a suggestion, what I did was put /boot on a USB thumb drive and then my OS right on the main RAID6 array. That way I get great high reliability for my OS drive, but the thumb drive is there to take care of booting and initramfs (required to mdadm + LVM before trying to mount /). I didn't want to put /boot on a hard drive, since they're much more likely to fail than a USB flash drive sitting there almost never getting written to (only on kernel upgrades).
OS + old storage
cat /proc/mdstat
New mass storage:
btrfs fi show /storage/
Backups pile of old drives:
btrfs fi show /backups/
My router, as mentioned earlier, uses the Biostar version of the same MB as my NAS, but obviously without the SATA bays or the SATA cards. One of the PCIe slots has a dual port gig Ethernet card. This lets me do dual WAN. Then, boot is a cheap 120 GB SSD. Total power usage is 14 watts.
This is the one I use and it works fine - https://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Controller-Non-Raid-SI-PEX40064/dp/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543180924&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=IOCrest+SI-PEX40064
Although it costs a lot more that it should be for some reason. I paid $15 for it on Newegg.
If it's just a data drive and you're not looking to do anything super fancy with it. These work great.
However, be advised that, because the card is PCI-E x1, if you were to actually plug in 4 hard drives or SSDs, you're gonna run smack against bandwidth limitations if you start trying to hammer I/O on the drives connected to the card all at once.
I have this exact card as well as the 2-port PCI-E x2 slot version in use and they work very well for supplementing on-board headers when you're a few short.
I would not attempt to use these cards to run HDDs/SSDs that were going to be datastores for VMs nor as the HBA for something like FreeNAS. If your goal is along those lines, you'd be much better off looking for an HBA like the 9207-8i. You can get those way, way cheap on ebay, and then you just need the correct cables for 'em.
how hot are they running?
if you lack sata data ports then you can add some more by buying a sata expantion card.
a card such as this one should do the trick.
Sata expantion card
I have two of these running smoothly on ubuntu 16.04 and should be no problem for windows. worked out of the box for me.
It works beautifully.
It’s worth every bit of the price tag imo.. here’s the Amazon link
Actually on sale for $120 for the next half hour
It was annoying to set up right, but if you need help, hit me w a PM
> Around £150 + shipping
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Elgato-Game-Capture-HD60-PlayStation/dp/B01DRWCOGA/ref=dp_ob_title_ce
No, but you’re only 1 device short.
You need some kind of card to get the signal from the PS4 to the Mac.
Something like this would do the trick.
I'd recommend doing all of this by streaming over Twitch. That way she'll be able to watch your stream from any of her devices as they all have the Twitch app (and alternatives like Pocket Plays). This will make things much easier for what you want to accomplish.
The software you'd use to stream all of this from an external capture card would be OBS, Open Source Broadcaster (free).
And finally, you have a variety of choices as to which hardware you could use to do this all with. Here are a few choices to take a look at and depending on your price range:
If I had to go with an external capture card, I'd either go with the AVerMedia Live Gamer Extreme or Elgato Game Capture HD60 S. So read up on these and see what the pros and cons of each are.
Now as far as latency between you and her, that will all depend on your upstream bandwidth for your internet connection as well as what video resolution and fps you'd be streaming at. But in normal/good scenarios, this will be 10-20 seconds.
You can stream with a GX85 if you use a capture device, such as an Elgato or Avermedia. You'll also need software to take the incoming stream and then send it over the internet to Facebook/Youtube/platform of your choice. Check out Open Broadcaster, works on Windows, macOS, and Linux.
I currently use the Elgato HD60 S for the Switch and I love it! It's a little convoluted to use the first time, but I had really nice video quality. You should be able to use it for the Wii U, too. If that's outside of your price range, you can find some decent capture cards that may have slightly lower quality or be a bit tougher to use.
Unfortunately, unless I'm behind the times, the only way to capture 3DS games is by having a custom capture card installed. On top of that, the only guy I know of who installed them has stopped doing so, for some reason. I haven't heard of any other options for a 3DS.
What kind of computer are you using to record your gameplay with?
For audio, a cheap dynamic mic would be a great way to go. It might not sound great initially, but a lot of those problems can be solved easily with software--Audacity is free and easy to use, and makes our recordings sound much better despite the mic's problems. You'll also need an XLR cable to go with it--preferably XLR male to female, but you can also find an XLR to USB one if you want to connect it directly to your PC. Otherwise, you'll need an audio interface to go with it. As for mic stands, I've honestly never had a problem with this one. It's not as easy to maneuver as the 100 dollar one, but it should serve your needs as a beginer.
If you're recording multiple people, you could get the Blue Yeti--a lot of people swear by it--but it's also a lot more expensive and it picks up everything if you're not careful. A lot of people think that the Yeti is cruise control for great audio, but it really doesn't do much more than a cheap mic can. I would just recommend having an audio interface that connects at least two microphones and then buying another dynamic mic instead.
As for recording your Switch, the standard is the Elgato. I'm currently using the HD60 model, which is nice, but it has some latency issues (meaning you'll need to manually sync your audio with your video). The HD60s has no latency problems, but it's a bit more expensive.
I use this capture card on my laptop, and it works without a hitch. Software is pretty easy to use.
I have! I use this capture card and play switch games with it over virtual desktop. Works fine. Was even able to play the switch 'VR' games using full screen mode.
There's this MSI Gaming X 1060 on amazon for $260 with a $60 rebate after purchase too, snap that up if you can, good card.
While Oculus Quest sounds like a goid option for you, the cheapest way to get into PCVR right now would be to buy a WMR headset and a cheap 1060 or 970 gpu. the Lenovo WMR has been going on sale for less than $200 and you can get a 1060 on Amazon right now for $284
MSI GAMING GeForce GTX 1060 6GB GDRR5 192-bit HDCP Support DirectX 12 Dual TORX 2.0 Fan VR Ready Graphics Card (GTX 1060 GAMING X 6G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IEKYD5U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_A.B9Bb3WTB9ZY
Personally I think your better off with a Rift, but at least this is an option.
Looking for any good deals on 1060 6GB. Cheapest I've found is for the Zotac at $320 and EVGA at $329.
Thoughts?
Zotac: https://www.mikescomputershop.com/product/7821621
EVGA: https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-06G-P4-6161-KR/dp/B01IPVSGEC/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&amp;me=
There is also the single fan version which has the crappy cpu heatsink for $260.
Even though these aren't exactly msrp, We're getting closer
EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 GAMING, ACX 2.0 (Single Fan), 6GB GDDR5, DX12 OSD Support (PXOC), Only 6.8 Inches Graphics Card 06G-P4-6161-KR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wgDZzb3T4FST8
ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1060 Mini, ZT-P10600A-10L, 6GB GDDR5 VR Ready Super Compact Gaming Graphics Card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IA9FEOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_phDZzbXMY3P0C
MSI GTX 1060 6G OCV1 Graphic Cards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2W09Q6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XhDZzb5BSXSZ3
Convinced? Can't hear you.
lol?
Gigabyte for the coil whine or EVGA for the House Fire. I kid, mostly.
EVGA 1060 SC version is alright.
Do not get the cheapo one (which overheats at 91C under load); avoid their ACX 3.0 cooled versions (SSC and FTW models) for now.
How mini is your ITX case? Do you really need to settle on a single fan option?
Also $644.99 on Amazon.ca
Is this a good price for a gtx 1080? I'm looking to upgrade since I bought a 1440p 144hz monitor
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IR6LMLO/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_vA3Azb9Y2FR3X
You're on Amazon.com, so that's in US Dollars, for the US website, 693 USD... that's nearly 900 Canadian dollars.
You would save nearly 200 Canadian dollars if you bought this instead: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IR6LMLO/?tag=pcp0f-20
The various names:
Founders Edition is nvidia's name for the reference edition of the current generation. It's carried by a lot of manufacturers, features a blower-style cooler, and no aftermarket overclocking. It's generally not recommended.
All others are brand-specific aftermarket cards, with custom cooler and frequently factory overclocking applied. Some of them may also have a custom circuit board layout. They'll all be in the same "region" of power, as the overclock won't be that massive, but they may run cooler, or allow more power draw for overclocking. You'll need to read the individual reviews - if you care. The differences are relatively small, the base chip is still definitly the deciding factor.
Upgrades:
RAM shouldn't be necessary for now. 8GB is still fine for gaming - 16GB can sometimes help, but it's not necessary, and I wouldn't invest in more DDR3 at this point.
A new power supply depends mostly on what you have right now. If it's some el cheapo model that you've used for years, I'd replace it - they don't get better over time. If it's something solid, it's fine to keep it, the wattage is definitly sufficient.
As for the GPU, if you're going for 144Hz in newer games than skyrim/cs:go as well, the GTX 1070 is worth a look, starting at $340 - though I'd spend a bit more on the sc black in that case. If you're not going for anything heavier, the RX 580 will be plenty.
If you're going for high framerate, also take another look at your cooler. You may be able to squeeze a bit more out of the CPU via overclocking, and at high framerates, the CPU is often the limiting factor.
Nope. Go to Amazon.in
See if the product you are looking for has a "global store" flair. Like this one I bought
Amazon will take care of all the hassle and deliver at your door.
The best historical price for that exact card on Amazon is $4 lower. From 10 days ago...
It should be fine. Although, here's an EVGA 450 watt 80+ Bronze for $40 bucks and free shipping. https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-Warranty-Supply-100-BT-0450-K1/dp/B01N9X3F8F
It's this one https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-Warranty-Supply-100-BT-0450-K1/dp/B01N9X3F8F/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493107032&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=evga+450w+bt
Would a 450w bronze work such as this one
Some extra notes that may be helpful...
Considering both of these options would bring the price down to the ~$245-$250 range, can put the savings towards a shiny new SSD for it.
IKR!?! I got a Samsung 850 EVO 120GB for $50 the other day on Ebay, an RGB/Mechanical Keyboard for $9, I'm eyeing this BUDGET EVGA MODULAR PSU:: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZY55HPT/ref=twister_B01G69E69E?th=1
Which is at $50 OR the non modular version for $27 (which I have seen dip to as low as 22) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9X3F8F/ref=twister_B01G69E69E?th=1
For the case I think I'm gonna go with the P400S, black/white. However not sure if I can get this on sale anytime soon. Phanteks/Bitfenix showcased some pretty dope RGB/TempGlass budget cases @ Computex but they won't be out until Q3.
RAM - well u know, buy whats cheapest
GPU - Aorus RX 570 is the best price/performance for 1080p. but fuck those miners, hope the sweet sweet 4XX sales return but for the 5XX series.
CPU - G4560 or a cheap i5-K processor (Skylake).
Ughh still so much time to wait :/
Lol another case of seller's remorse? Did you see the ones they have on Amazon now? $21.99 with Prime for a 450W EVGA 80+ bronze
Just picked this up for a budget build.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N9X3F8F/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I wouldn't say so.
Looking at the 8700K in Europe, neither Amazon.co.uk, Amazon.de, Amazon.fr, Alternate or Mindfactory have it in stock. The US is similar, out of stock on Amazon.com & Newegg and most won't ship until 1-2 weeks.
These coupons are literally not worth it UNLESS you can't be asked to wait for online shipping or you are purchasing way above the coupon minimum.
Lets take a look at their Ryzen Line.
https://www.frys.com/product/9522092?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG 200$ for the 2600. With the promo coupon 160$
However online
https://smile.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B07B41WS48?_encoding=UTF8&%2AVersion%2A=1&%2Aentries%2A=0&ie=UTF8&pldnNewCustomer=1&ref_=smi_ge_cnf_cnf_smi
The same cpu is 164$.
But here in lies the issue. Now the cpu is 160$ NOT 199. Therefore you have to buy something else in order to get the coupon.
Lets take a different item.
https://www.frys.com/product/9339760?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG the i7-8700k is 370$. With the Promo its 296$. Which is amazing! Only problem its out of stock pretty much everywhere
https://smile.amazon.com/Intel-i7-8700K-Desktop-Processor-Unlocked/dp/B07598VZR8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1550638139&sr=8-4&keywords=i7+9700k
online its $360. So you are getting a massive discount, provided you are well above the minimum purchase for the most part.
TLDR: Coupon is only really vauable for items with a high coupon margin or if you cant be asked for shipping on low coupon margin
I can find it just fine. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07598VZR8/ref=twister_B07CN3RVTF?th=1
I have a couple things to say. Are you comfortable with overclocking? If so, i'd get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-8700K-Desktop-Processor-Unlocked/dp/B07598VZR8/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=8700k&qid=1556664196&s=gateway&sr=8-1&th=1
Also, one of the biggest features with the Z390 mobo is overclocking. If possible, step it down a bit on the motherboard (if you don't like overclocking).
Not really, an 8700K goes for sub-£300 now. I bought mine for £370 so it's already dropped around £80-100 since launch. I could easily see them moving 6C/12T to £250 to occupy the i5 K-series slot and the 8C/16T would launch for around £380.
Someone in S.korea asked Intel official and They said that only 100 retail boxes of Coffelake was released at S.Korea and We'll get enough supplies By 2017 December or 2018 January.
Due to unavailability in S.Korea, 8700K's price is skyrocketing toward 430~600 USD. What's making worse is that retailer in S.Korea is selling them only by expensive combo bundle.
I think, at this point, It's tough to get one in S.Korea. If you can use freight forwarder in Japan, You should try Amazon japan pre-order at below link(You have to use freight forwarder because they don't ship directly to S.Korea).
https://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B07598VZR8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Out of stock, I have found one on Amazon for £375 although I'm not sure how safe it is tbh. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07598VZR8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DH3ZZ3ENG10J&amp;psc=1
Type|Amazon|3rd Party New
:---|:---|:---
Lowest|$299.99 on Jul 16, 2018|$309.99 on May 14, 2018
Highest|$419.99 on Nov 03, 2017|$600.00 on Nov 15, 2017
3C link
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I think even the US market is being hit. Look at the price trend on Amazon in the past week: https://camelcamelcamel.com/Intel-i7-8700K-Desktop-Processor-Unlocked/product/B07598VZR8?context=search
So it's either a case of switching to 9900/9700, production, or Intel is shifting product mix to server CPUs to fulfill increased CPU demand (someone else stated this point). If the former, then we'll have to see the market share over the next couple of months. If the latter, then that means Intel's statement about "hitting annual revenue projections" basically means they've given up market share given that the market demand for overall CPUs is above their initial estimates.
Personally, given Intel's 10nm production problems, I have no idea how they are going to be able to fab a server chip at that prices and have enough yield to supply the market demand at reasonable prices. If Zen 2 successfully delivers its 15% IPC increase and power savings, I actually think the 20% market share figure quoted by Intel is going to be what they themselves are left with.
That's the non OC version of the card I believe.
The same card is here:
http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Graphics-GV-N970G1-GAMING-4GD/dp/B00NH5T1MS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1413477669&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=gigabyte+gtx+970
http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Graphics-GV-N970G1-GAMING-4GD/dp/B00NH5T1MS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419050241&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=gtx+970+g1
340USD = around 470SGD
From one of the shops at at Sim Lim: http://puu.sh/dBVQo/4e8bc4c0d9.png
This is why.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NH5T1MS
This is generally considered the "best" 970.
Got a 6500 from cex a couple weeks ago, works perfectly, the processor is rarely the thing that goes in a PC. Just buy an aftermarket CPU cooler for like a tenner from Amazon (you get the chip only) and you've saved yourself a load of money to put towards the GPU or whatever.
I'd also say the 6600 isn't particularly worth it over the 6500, it's probably about 5% faster for most things, so only worth 5% more.
Also if you want new the 6500 is only 200 from Amazon
$188 new from Amazon w/ free shipping
www.amazon.com/Intel-Skylake-Desktop-Processor-BX80662I56500/dp/B010T6CWI2
TL;DR: Currently have i3-6100. Looking at i5-6500 and i5-7500. Would like an upgrade recommendation so I can run games like Tarkov and PubG.
I'm very sad to say, I built this rig in late 2016, and I still feel like I don't know what the hell I'm doing. I got by with a lot of help from redditors and Youtube videos so I have no idea what's good and what isn't.
Currently, I have an i3-6100. I skimped on some parts due to being on a budget. In addition to upgrading my RAM by 8GB (Currently have 8GB) I'm hoping to upgrade my CPU. I also have an EVGA GTX 950 in there.
If it matters This is my motherboard
So what I'm looking for is an LGA 1151 slot, right?
Here is the first option
Here is the second option
What confuses me, is the second one is one generation newer than the first one, right? Why are they the same price? I'm also told if I go above a certain gen I'd have to upgrade my BIOS? I'd like to avoid that if possible. I've also read that in reality, an i5 is plenty sufficient for games, and i7 isn't worth the extra money unless you're video editing/rendering, etc. Lastly, the stock cooler that comes with the cpu should suffice, yes? I don't care about overclocking.
I'm looking to smoothly run Tarkov, Hunt Showdown, PubG, things like that. I don't care about 4k or 1440p or anything really. Ideally I'd like to at least keep it to 60fps though. Smooth gameplay is primarily what I'm after.
I'm also open to AMD and such if there's a comparable option that's more cost-effective, the intel i-series was just a bit easier for me to tell the difference between the different tiers (3, 5, 7)
I know it's a bit verbose, so thank you for reading.
Significantly.
You may want to look at a Seasonic or Corsair CMx PSU. They are going to provide a better reliability at a similar cost. Look for 450w or so.
I would also swap to 1x8 for the RAM so you can easily swap later.
Could go cheaper on MOBO also. This would get you closer to being able to bump up the GPU to a RX480 8GB or 1060 6GB within the budget.
I'd go with this psu over the one you have there. http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Modular-Crossfire-Warranty-210-GQ-0650-V1/dp/B017HA3SQ8
I'm sorry, what does GS/PS mean? Is that in reference to the rating of the PSU? like Gold/Platinum? I have a 650W Gold EVGA PSU and a white case, I would love to buy these cables but I'm confused as to whether I should or not....
this is my powersupply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017HA3SQ8/ref=twister_B01LXKQ07C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That's pretty borderline. If you're spending $1167 on a rig you can spend an extra $30 compared to the other PSU on a high quality PSU like this one.
If you're willing to step down to a semi modular power supply, then this would be a good choice
It's not made by Super Flower or Seasonic, but it scored pretty high on JonnyGuru.
Here you go:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4570 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $199.99 @ Newegg
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $29.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | ASRock H97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $88.98 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $72.00 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $109.97 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $54.99 @ Amazon
Case | Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case | $88.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | Corsair RM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $114.99 @ Best Buy
Optical Drive | Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer | $19.98 @ OutletPC
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $779.88
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-09-27 10:41 EDT-0400 |
For the GPU:
In your budget
Not in your budget
and there's some leftovers for your peripherals etc ... :D
I recommend the Gigabyte model.
Woahhhh buddy... That graphics card is totally overpriced and unnecessary. A GTX 970 will perform at the same tier, costs less and is a newer generation gpu. This is a decent one.
If you want a full system for under $800 that will last you 10 years, good luck. But I did my best picking out these parts:
Core i5 4430: http://www.amazon.com/Intel-i5-4430-Quad-Core-Desktop-Processor/dp/B00CO8T9VC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422398980&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=core+i5
Motherboard: http://www.amazon.com/MSI-Motherboard-Motherboards-B85-G41-MATE/dp/B00D12OASW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422399026&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=lga+1150+motherboard
RAM: http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-HyperX-FURY-2x4GB-1600MHz/dp/B00J8E8ZLK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422399065&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=8GB+ram
GTX 970: http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Gaming-GDDR5-Graphics/dp/B00NH5T1MS/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422399112&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=GTX+970
Pick your own ATX Case: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&amp;field-keywords=atx%20case&amp;sprefix=atx+ca%2Celectronics
Power Supply: http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Builder-Watt-EPS%C2%A0-CX600/dp/B0092ML0OC/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422399192&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=corsair+power+supply
Hard Drive: http://www.amazon.com/WD-Green-Desktop-Hard-Drive/dp/B008YAHW6I/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422399223&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=2tb+hard+drive&amp;pebp=1422399227833&amp;peasin=B008YAHW6I
This system should last you a while
Save your money grab a good 970. Like this or this
BTW, same price on Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Gaming-GDDR5-Graphics/dp/B00NH5T1MS
I don't know about you, but I prefer just cheap monitors as it doesn't make any difference to me. This is an acer 1080P monitor for $116. As far as graphics card, maybe a 970. Actually cheaper than a 780 and 770 currently from what I can see. Here's one for $370. Don't forget you need windows and a psu, and maybe a DVD drive
You could save money and get a cheaper Cooler master hyper 212 evo or Arctic freezer i30.
Probably a cheaper case. Maybe a Rosewill Challenger U3 or a Cooler Master elite 430 or Cooler Master HAF 912
And maybe a better CPU with the money you save on those things. AMD has pretty good performance to price ratio. FX- 8350 is a lot better and only like $10 more. And is 8 core if that means anything. You can check at http://pcpartpicker.com/ to find compatibility. Most likely with the AMD processor you would need a different mobo
Vertical807 - Flight Sim Addons/Specs/Sim Settings - November 28th, 2017
Peripherals:
Mouse: Senlleo Gaming Mouse
Keyboard: Sonfan Backlit Gaming Keyboard
Controls: Logitech G940 Flight System
Head Tracking: Track IR5 with hat-clip
Headset: Sades SA902B 7.1 Channel Virtual USB Surround Stereo
USB Hub: AmazonBasics 7 Port USB 2.0 Hub
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Computer Specs
CPU: Intel I5-6500, default clock
GPU: Gigabyte GTX1060 G1 Gaming
Motherboard: ASUS Micro ATX DDR4 LGA 1151 Motherboards H110M-E
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 200R Compact ATX
RAM:
Ballistix Sport LT 8GB Single DDR4 2400 MT/s
Kingston HyperX FURY Black 8GB 2133MHz DDR4
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Prepard3d_v4.1
Scenery:
FlightBeam:
KSFOHD, KDEN, KIAD, KPHX
FSDreamTeam
KFLL
, KDFW
, KMEM
, KLAX
, KLAS
, KORD
ImagineSim
KATL
Taxi-2-Gate
KMCO, KSTL
DRZEWIECKI DESIGN
NY AIRPORTS V2 X, NEW YORK CITY X V2, MIAMI CITY X
FlyTampa
KTPA-Rebooted
, KMDW
, TNCM full-extended
, Toronto
SunSkyJet
KPHL
LatinVFR
KEVW
, TJSJ
, KMIA
, KRDU
Orbx
Global Base
, Vector
, OpenLC
, TreesHD
Turbulent Designs
TerraFlora
Weather:
[ActiveSky for P3d_V4 with Cloud Art](
Running Global Configuration!
Aircraft:
PMDG
PMDG 737 Base Package
, PMDG 737 Expansion
, PMDG 777 Base Package
, PMDG 777 Expansion
TFDI
B717-200
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
P3D Settings and Visual Modifications:
PTA
ENVTEX
Settings and textures are in Thopat preset .rar file! Follow them as closely as possible!
-Thopat Preset
Game settings
[My P3D.cfg](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1N0KbATTwi9WJndWUF-F1sR0pAvEK1lsz/view?usp=sharing)
[Traffic](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1q2i8E89NFQMSXqWk4_1cL6aFL1kfOh2L/view?usp=sharing)
[Display](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nAWVmQbWbsXmfLDbLp8v3V1G460hyGVp/view?usp=sharing)
[Lighting](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KvNhElk211apWxDuNlZ2Mda6v0zfK7px/view?usp=sharing)
[Realism](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gxyTBU7CPe66Mzw5eAj-TlcPmmLFrAJp/view?usp=sharing)
[Weather](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AHuUMnoN0d0zip3Pcpw7G5eBcwzgrYbP/view?usp=sharing)
[World](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BNSaLIxPmn4TrZmJXzmwvxh_bLTnvCO0/view?usp=sharing)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I also do live-streaming on YouTube every once in awhile, check out my channel if you'd like!
Virtual Airlines:
Delta Virtual
United Virtual
Southwest Virtual
FedEx Virtual
I would go for a i5-6500. (for less on Amazon)
I don't know and trust the Power Supply, would go for bequiet!
For the performance you want, that's honestly overkill. If your son wants an explanation, please tell him that the games that he plays (Minecraft, League of Legends, Neopets, World of Warcraft) are not that graphics intensive and do not require such a highly-priced PC. Even if you did play graphics-intensive games, you can get the performance you're looking for, for much, much less.
You could put together a killer computer for about $800 or even less.
For starters, you do not need an i7. An i5, or even an i3 will do just fine for those games. Also, you do not need that CPU cooler and just use the stock one since it doesn't seem like you're planning to overclock the CPU.
32 GB of RAM is overkill for any game, regardless of what you're playing. You can get by with just 8GB of RAM, or 16GB just to be safe.
Also, you should probably wait for the GTX 1080 to drop if you're really set on getting it. It's currently way over MSRP due to the lack of stock. If you want to cut the costs a bit, and you want to future-proof the PC, you should try something like the GTX 970 or the new RX 480 after the price drops, and it will play those games perfectly fine.
As for the PSU, it looks like it costs a bit much, but it's good nonetheless. If you don't want to change that, it looks just fine to me.
The motherboard looks pretty good for the price, and the SSD and HDD are just fine as well.
Hope that helps!
EDIT: Sorry for editing the post so much, I realized that I left out a lot that I should've said.
If you want strong single-core performance then yes, at the moment at least Intel is the team to go for.
For that budget I would consider the following:
Intel i3-6320 LG 1511 Skylake Processor (not sure why it says Pentium in the item title, ah well!): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Intel-Pentium-Dual-Core-i3-6320-Processor/dp/B015VPX48I/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474456530&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=skylake+i3
And for a MoBo maybe this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gigabyte-B150M-DS3H-DDR3-GA-B150M-DS3H-Motherboard/dp/B015XSG8GS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474456703&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=b150+motherboard
NOTE: The MoBo is DDR3 not DDR4, so will need the appropriate RAM. Possibly look in to sticking down the extra £20 needed to get a DDR4 board or a H170 chipset? These will be your choices :) Plus, if you can extend your budget by an extra £30 it would definitely be worth going for an i5-6500, the cost-to-power ratio on that CPU is insane compared to what else is out there https://www.amazon.co.uk/Intel-Core-Skylake-Processor-i5-6500/dp/B010T6CWI2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474456925&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=skylake+i5
Also, I personally haven't used either of these components, just wanted to show it can be achieved for the price so make sure you check out plenty of reviews!
I guess if the motherboard doesn't work well with the processor/RAM, I'd have to say that I'm not set on that particular MOBO. Is it a solid gaming motherboard?
If I stick with that motherboard, what would be a better processor/RAM pairing? I'd like at least 16GB of memory to start with.
Assuming I save money, what would a better GPU be?
Edit: would this processor work? How about this RAM?
Going to incorporate some of your suggestions into the original post table. Hopefully to develop this.
Not too much, motherboard and ram cost similar prices.
Out of the i5's, the i5-6500 offers the best price-to-performance.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Intel-Core-Skylake-Processor-i5-6500/dp/B010T6CWI2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479820845&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=skylake+i5
Considering picking these up. Any changes I should make and is there any chance of any of these going lower?
mobo
ram
hsf
cpu
Both are fine, I believe the 6600k is like 10$ more expensive, for the extra .3GHz. If he doesnt plan on OC'ing now, but may in the future, its probably worth spending the extra money. Bonus: Explain it to him so he can decide to learn for himself =D
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Skylake-Desktop-Processor-BX80662I56500/dp/B010T6CWI2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480695841&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=cpu+i5+6500
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Skylake-Desktop-Processor-BX80662I56600K/dp/B012M8M7TY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480695852&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=cpu+i5+6600k
How do I tell which i5-6500 comes with the stock cooler? The pictures don't match the OEM/retail selections: Amazon Link
Pounds = UK
I5-6500
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B010T6CWI2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485517364&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=i5&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51Gq81DIpEL&amp;ref=plSrch
Consider buying your parts off Amazon - with shipping to Australia is was still cheaper than my local stores.
The Kaby Lake i5-7500 is $3 more expensive than the Skylake i5-6500 so I've ordered a Kaby Lake CPU instead.
Kaby Lake: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MZZJ1P0/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_post_o0_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Skylake: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010T6CWI2/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_post_o1_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
my first idea is to maybe go with a more bare-bones motherboard your current one has 2 graphics card slots and 4 ram slots. You only need 1 graphics card slot and 2 ram slots unless you are planning on upgrading your pc in the future. I found this one on Amazon that's about half the price. Also maybe consider only using 8gb ram or 12 if you stick with the current motherboard. 16gb is a little overkill in my opinion.
amazon.com/GIGABYTE-GA-H110M-LGA1151-Intel-Motherboard/dp/B0165YUDTM/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1509749648&sr=1-6&keywords=motherboard&dpID=51qUTLJ3MGL&preST=_SX300QL70&dpSrc=srch
Good lord, with all the negative posts screaming about the RX480 melting cheap motherboards, I forgot that it actually does everything I wanted a motherboard to do. Just wondering, I have this H110 Motherboard and I a noticed you had a P67-G43; you think I am safe from needing to replace this brand new motherboard in a few months?
Oh I meant h110m (which I use right now) or b150
Having just an ssd isnt a problem if you have an external hdd. If all your playing is LOL trust me your build will get the results you want. You just need to change your mobo to something basic since you wont be overclocking. something like the Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard works fine and should shave a few bucks off your build. You would be better off getting 2x4gb ram instead of 1x8gb. gives a bit of a preformance boost but then again ram is cheap so you could always buy another 8gb stick later (you wont need 16gb of ram for LOL but maybe if you decided to play something else in the future it could be nice). No real need for an optical drive these days but by all means buy it if you feel you need it.
Heres a link to amazon but feel free to shop around
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-LGA1151-Intel-Motherboard-GA-H110M-/dp/B0165YUDTM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466724470&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Gigabyte+GA-H110M-A+Micro+ATX+LGA1151+Motherboard
ohh and here is some gameplay of league at max settings 1080p with your cpu gpu combo. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jNnv3aNHqkM
you can even play at 4k but then again those arent cheap.
TD;LR
buy this Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
and enjoy 200fps at max if your monitor can handle it.
~mumrax15
You'll want to look at H110 or B150 mobo's. Here's a good one, you'll just need a separate wifi card. Otherwise this ASRock has built in wifi.
That's a fairly tenuous claim. All the following motherboards are sold by Gigabyte:
Then we have Newegg advertising the same motherboard you linked with no mention of generation. We also have a review from your motherboard 5 days ago that claims the BIOS must be updated.
I'm not saying I'm right, but it doesn't seem like that text is a guarantee.
Had the same problems with their subsidiary company ASRock. Fucking drove me nuts. I roll with Gigabyte now, even the shit tier boards have "Audio Noise Guard with High Quality Audio Capacitors". Might be worth looking into.
&#x200B;
Issue is that my sad motherboard only supports up to 6/7th gen processors
this one --> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0165YUDTM/ref=twister_B01MFBKDST?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
How about this:
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i3-6100-Cache-Processor-BX80662I36100/dp/B015VPX2EO/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480139667&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=intel+i3
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-LGA1151-Intel-Motherboard-GA-H110M/dp/B0165YUDTM/ref=pd_sim_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B0165YUDTM&amp;pd_rd_r=FTC8N04D9Z13F9NM5G13&amp;pd_rd_w=M5RmB&amp;pd_rd_wg=dUkUf&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=FTC8N04D9Z13F9NM5G13
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-Single-PC4-17000-288-Pin-Memory/dp/B01BIWLFGQ/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480139800&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=ddr4+8gb
less than 200 usd...
One last question my friend. I just found this motherboard on Amazon. Would this be a straight swap into my HP Pavilion HPE?
https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-GA-H110M-LGA1151-Intel-Motherboard/dp/B0165YUDTM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527727938&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=lga+1155
You can get a B150 for $42 on Newegg at the moment delivery included in the price, which is a slightly better mobo than a H110 - it's apparently an $85 value (Amazon also charge $85 for it)... $25 off if you buy before Friday, plus a $20 mail in rebate. That's a really good deal.
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/8RkwrH/msi-motherboard-b150mbazooka
H110/B150s are about $10 less than 250s, but are also on sale like this more frequently. You can also find some second hand for about $30-35
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0165YUDTM/ref=sr_1_1_olp?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493242822&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=h110
http://www.ebay.com/sch/Motherboards/1244/i.html?_from=R40&amp;_mPrRngCbx=1&amp;_udlo=&amp;_udhi=45&amp;_nkw=h110&amp;rt=nc&amp;LH_BIN=1
Basically as best I know with these, they do not work with a G4560 off the bat, but if you put the 6500 in it when you first run the system you can do a quick bios update that enables Kaby Lake support, then take out the 6500 and replace it with the 4560 which will work perfectly fine.
As is there is $25 left in the budget, so if you get one of these for $40 that's $45 left in the budget. If he thinks he can sell the 750 TI let's say for $85 then he has $130, so getting the RAM for $30-35 should mean the 470 wouldn't cost a cent. It's a little bit of work granted, but would be a hell of an upgrade to get essentially for free.
Your CPU and GPU combo are great for 1440p gaming. I have a 2600 and Vega 64, and I consistently hit over 100 fps on 1440p games like Destiny 2 and Apex Legends with proper overclocks/undervolts.
From what I understand, the 2060 Super is a bit stronger than the 64 so you should be good.
I also have the same monitor and love it, so good choice there.
In regards to storage, it depends on your budget. I have this one as my boot drive, and works great: WD 500GB m.2
Obviously you can choose larger storage if your budget allows.
Power supply: EVGA 650W Power Supply
I have this one and it works reliably. According to your parts, a 650W should be safe enough, but again, your budget really determines how you go with this.
This looks like a solid build, but I would consider the EVGA 650W GQ (80+ Gold, ECO) a better choice. You can get it on Amazon for $69.99.
It might save you a few bucks over it's lifetime. If you're using 400w while gaming 20%, or about 80W, is being wasted to heat. Like leaving an extra 75W light bulb on when you're gaming. A gold PS at 400w is close to 90% efficient so you're wasting 40w instead of 80w. It will save a few bucks but it's not the end of the world. After Gold rating they get expensive fast for diminishing returns. 80+ Platinum is 92% at middle load and 80+ Titanium is 94% at middle load. Cheapest Platinum I found was $100 for a Rosewill(no thanks), and cheapest Titanium is over $200.
Edit, oops the other one I linked was bronze. This one is gold but $70 though it would probably pay for itself in a year.
Your link to the current build doesn't work.. Just post it here including what GPU you plan on upgrading to. That PSU is good, but you won't need 750w unless you're doing SLI/xfire.
Check out the EVGA GQ 650w. It is better than the G1 you posted and cheaper. If you wait to scope out a deal you can get it even cheaper(just got mine for $55 after rebate).
Brand new 650w semi-modular great quality PSU
There's a deal right now for a really good PSU:
Link: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Modular-Warranty-Supply-210-GQ-0650-V1/dp/B017HA3SQ8
It's a gold efficiency semi-modular PSU (it also has nice black cables instead of the horrifying red, orange, black cable mess that is cheap power supplies.
you can get a EVGA g2 or GQ for the same as the corsair VS and its a much much much better psu.
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Modular-Warranty-Supply-210-GQ-0650-V1/dp/B017HA3SQ8/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480327439&amp;sr=8-1-spell&amp;keywords=ewvga+gq
Damn thats a good deal. Unfortunately a little low on the wattage :( Anyone know of any good PSU deals at a higher wattage? i.e. 600W and up?
Edit: Ended up buying this guy for a pretty good price.
Current shopping cart:
Graphics - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IPVSLTC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1D9VA4FDB43MN&amp;psc=1
Motherboard - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0131GA4WI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&amp;psc=1
Processro - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRRPPQS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_9?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
SSSD - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F9G414U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
RAM - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DPSQPF2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
Case - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DPSQPF2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
Power - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017HA3SQ8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=A2I4D0WO1JEMBA&amp;psc=1
Harddrive - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013QFRS2S/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
I would say spend $10 more and get the evga 650w gq 80+ gold from amazon
edit: nvm they upped the price to $120
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B017HA3SQ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Theres plenty of these things. Here's a cheap one.
I know you probably want a fast solution, but if you do not have a power supply you can substitute you will need something like this: http://www.amazon.com/eForCity-24-pin-Power-Supply-Tester/dp/B005CTCD6S/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
I do not have personal experience with that one, but I do own this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002R06PGE/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Even if you don't need a tester right now, I advise having one on hand, especially if you have multiple PCs to maintain. In my case, I have lotsa family and friends I help, and a PSU tester has come in handy over the years.
Follow the power is the best method of troubleshooting.
First check if the power supply works. You can do this by either getting a power supply tester or shorting out pins 14 and 15. If the power supply doesn't start, it's dead.
If after replacing the power supply, your computer still doesn't start, take out your motherboard and start looking for black stains on or near the surface and through-hole mounted components. Start at the power connectors on the motherboard (CPU and ATX) and work your way from there. You will need good lighting and good eyesight (or magnifying glass).
Any black stains means an exploded component and should be replaced.
The same will hold true for any other peripherals, especially video cards which take power directly from the power supply.
Good luck!
or a psu tester
https://www.amazon.com/Insten-24-pin-Power-Supply-Tester/dp/B005CTCD6S
I found out when my pc started turning itself off. I had to unplug a few things power wise then pc turn itself on. By then, its considered "too late" and should of replaced it sooner, just didn't have the money.
SO you don't really want to wait that long if its starting to do the above but if it isn't, you can buy a power supply tester which if any lights aren't green on it, means PSU is dying. I would recommend this if you aren't super tech smart to mess with volts and/or don't want to waste money on a psu and find out its something else.
To be fair, most people don't know how to turn on a PSU without it being connected to the motherboard and case.
To OP, you need either a PSU tester (they're cheap) or you can ghetto-test it with a paperclip or anything else thin, bendable and conductive
Buy something like this https://www.amazon.ca/Insten-24-pin-Power-Supply-Tester/dp/B005CTCD6S
One I have used. Easy and cheap. Worked Everytime. It may save you time in case it might not be the PSU. It will rule it out at least.
https://www.amazon.com/Insten-24-pin-Power-Supply-Tester/dp/B005CTCD6S/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549703504&amp;sr=8-6&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=psu+tester&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51oGO0bfPqL&amp;ref=plSrch
Could be a faulty PSU or the connection of PSU to motherboard. Could also be dirty power coming through the wall. Either get a PSU tester (example: https://www.amazon.com/Insten-24-pin-Power-Supply-Tester/dp/B005CTCD6S ). Make sure you arn't getting power brownouts/sags from the power provided through your home. Are you plugged into a line conditioner or UPS?
First thing I would try is taking out one of the RAM sticks, see if it works. If it doesn't, swap the one that's in there with the one you took out (basically only leave 1 RAM stick in) and see if THAT works.
If it doesn't, you may wanna try a new power supply, or buy a power supply tester.
Also, if your motherboard has a built-in display, take out the Radeon card and plug the monitor directly in to the onboard display and see what happens.
If ALL of that fails, it's probably the motherboard.
Have you tried testing GPU in another computer? If you can I'd recommend that to see if it really did fry the GPU. If it did, definitely bad psu. Swap that bad boy out. Also swap the Cable as it could have been fried as well.
If GPU is working fine in another computer, then it's going to be a bigger headache. Probably need to replace Mobo. Though this is unlikely the culprit. I'd almost bet money on bad PSU.
If you can, get a PSU tester. They're like $10-$20 and are very good for this kind of thing. Allows you to make sure it's PSU before hooking up a replacement part and frying it too.
Edit: Here's a cheap PSU tester. $11. Might be worth it to get it and test PSU first. Unless Corsair is willing to swap it out anyway. If they aren't, get that and test it. If you tell them you tested it with a PSU tester and it tests bad, they will not balk any about swapping it out.
Insten 20/24-pin Power Supply Tester for ATX/SATA / HDD, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CTCD6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-maJBbJ4V5239
When something like this happens I usually turn to a trusty power supply tester to help clear the fog. They look like this and they're very cheap.
https://www.amazon.com/Insten-24-pin-Power-Supply-Tester/dp/B005CTCD6S
Do you have the make/model for that pc? or at least a link to the specs of it?
I'm banking on your PSU is dying/dead. You may be in the "dying" phase right now where your 550w is barely pushing enough amps and when it drops low enough, your PC shuts down.
I would also just double check all your PSU connectors, unplug, blow, then replug in and make sure they all snap in
edit here is an example of a PSU tester: link
Sometimes they can be useful to diagnose a PSU, however, if your PSU is having problems providing amps, if may report that everything is okay. Unfortunately there isn't a good way to "put a load" on the PSU besides simply running your PC.
There are relatively inexpensive PSU testers available, so that might be a start. Either that, or perhaps a local computer shop has the appropriate testing equipment on hand.
If your shop doesn't already have one, one of these (or one like it) will save you so much hassle. I do craigslist computer work, and didn't know that these things existed. I got one recently and it is so wonderful.
I guess for 8 bucks, this. Lots of choices on amazon actually, just search power supply tester.
Still though even for that cheap at that rated wattage, I would just like to put it out there I wouldn't trust a used PSU from a stranger even if I have an implement to test it.
A cheap multimeter should be available at your local hardware or auto parts store.
For example:
http://m.lowes.com/pd/Morris-Products-Digital-Multimeter-Meter/4738850
There are also purpose built power supply testers.
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B005CTCD6S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1457390512&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=atx+power+supply+tester&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51F4joHuY5L&amp;ref=plSrch
I would use a digital multimeter.
There's also a PSU tester. I've never used one but I've seen it recommended here a few times.
Noctua is probably the best for silence.
NF-F12
NF-A14
They'll provide great cooling at very low RPMs, which render them virtually inaudible.
Edit: I can't provide any input into corsairs fans as i don't own them, but after owning [noctuas] for a while, the color scheme doesn't bother me one bit when i get confused if my system is even powered on :p. Gotta get close and listen for the harddisk.
Everyone seems to love the Noctua NF-F12 PWMs. They're silent, resilient and powerful. Not very cheap (for fans) though, and if you don't like brown, the differently-colored variants are a bit more expensive I believe.
Cougar Vortex - The only equal of Noctua fans that I have found. Comes in black if you aren't a fan of orange.
Noctua NF-F12 - Bit more expensive than Cougar, not higher quality but better known. Bit of a fashion statement but still very high quality. Check the more expensive industrialPPC version if you want black.
I personally always pick Cougar. Saves me $8 per fan and orange is my favorite color.
Yeah, I bought 3 of these 120mm fans, which are the same ones as come with the cooler. Honestly, it was probably a little overkill and two would have been fine. I’m by no means a pro at this, but I did a little research and figured it worth a little extra for super-quiet fans, and then read up on setting fan curves in bios. With these three fans (plus the cooler one) (two in, one out) I rarely get them above 40-50 percent speed while keeping case cool and very quiet.
Again, purely anecdotal, but has worked well for me.
I bought NF-F12. Do google though as I see people mentioning NF-A12x25 a lot and I haven't done research on various Noctua fan models.
Sure bud, here is the cooler and here is the fan I put on the rad, completely optional but I'm certain makes a big difference in noise, as Noctuas are top end.
Also, here is the video tutorial for installation, an easy installation that takes a little over an hour if you have the right tools, but is pretty simple. Here is the tool set I used, and it gave me any size or fit that I needed to do this easily, plus is great if you ever do any computer customizing in general and need a nice set.
If you have any more questions feel free to ask.
Sure thing, I used 2x of these in my Synology.
Very nice but expensive fans ($20 a fan) but it includes a fan splitter and etc if you need more ports for fans on your motherboard.
www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12-PWM-Cooling-Fan/dp/B00650P2ZC/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1448996722
NF-F12 are Premium fans with rubber feet for reduced noise.
http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12-PWM-Cooling-Fan/dp/B00650P2ZC
This was the model I was looking at
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00650P2ZC?cache=466ed4e64194bdba84f6478351eafaaa&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;qid=1411330390&amp;sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1
You can get them brand new on Amazon right now for $18.
Bearings: sleeved<fluid dynamic<magnetic (as corsair would have you believe) FDB is fine.
Static pressure is important when forcing air through a radiator or fin array. It's the amount of pressure the fan can overcome. Generally you want to replace a radiator fan with something that has the same or higher static pressure.
I'm not really a fan of Corsair fans. If you have 4 pin PWM fans, then get these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00650P2ZC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
By far the best fans available, imo.
Would [this](Corsair Hydro Series High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler H60 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0HZMGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Aw5Cyb1PC09P1) be a good cooler to allow me to over lock my 6300?
i just bought this, will it work? http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B00A0HZMGA?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01
make sure your fans on cpu case and gpu are clean and spinning
also make sure your voltages aren't neccesarily to high.
i am biased but you should seriously consider a corsair water cooler such as
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0HZMGA/ref=psdc_3015422011_t1_B019EXSSBG
or
Noctua NH-U9S Premium Quality Quiet CPU Cooler
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TBHYYFK/ref=psdc_11036281_t3_B002VKVZ1A
Got the same CPU, it's like a bloody jet engine the stock cooler. I got a closed loop cooler, they are a bit more pricey but I like the aesthetic look of them and they're effective :)
(I got This one)
There might be cheaper ones out there
How is the NZXT Kraken compared to the Corsair H100 v2? or even just the h60?
I would add water cooling since your budget would allow it, this one for example would only add 20$ to your budget
The H60 is cheaper on amazon: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00A0HZMGA/?tag=pcp0f-20
Memoryexpress has a pricematch policy, use the amazon link to get the price down.
A lot of mid-sized towers (and specially designed compact ATX towers) support both, so I guess a large portion of it is user preference. Take for example the following compact designed case designed to fit full ATX boards:
Amazon Link
I can't really attest to the quality of this case, but just as an example, as long as you find a tower with supporting ATX board sizes, it'll work (also good to consider the size of your CPU cooler, that's why they can't get too small - in the example of this case, your current fan wouldn't get the clearance it needs, but you could go with an alternative like...
Amazon Link)
Although that might be more than you want to spend, so just check the CPU cooler clearance required in the case you get, and it should be fine!
As for the CPU, if hyperthreading isn't a big deal to you, it's totally fine - that's one of the core differences between this one and say... the i7-6700k. If you want a higher clock speed out of the box too without having to OC, that's one thing to consider. But if those aren't that important to you, I'd say your choice is a sound one (many, many people will argue for the merit of hyperthreading these days though - and I can't say they're incorrect in their reasoning). However, if you're comparing dollar-to-dollar value, invest that extra savings into your GPU.
And finally, onto your GPU, pretty solid choice. Especially if you're not considering options like the 1070 or 1080. I lean more towards GTX cards, but that's entirely my biased choice, and so I won't influence you that way. There's a number of arguments that go both ways, so I'd say for sanity sake (you could literally dig for hours on the comparisons), that you'd be safe going either route (and if DX12 is the big factor for you, AMD seems to be doing better in some games, not as good in others, and around the same in even other games, so there seems to be a LOT of variability in regards to this factor - AMD seems to be excelling better on more recent games, but it's hard to say if that will remain the trend or if it will shift).
Again, hope this was helpful :)
That monitor is quite enough.
Here's my suggestion for your new build:
That's $1000 total.
Our mutual friend asked me to help you out. Sorry its kinda long but hope it helps.
General Thoughts about building your own computer:
IMO buying computer hardware is all about future proofing. If your not a hardcore enthusiast you want to buy what you are not going to need to upgrade for a long long time. For example my friend JUST upgraded his gtx8800+ to the new 780. His 8800 lasted him like 10 years. However, doing this usually means purchasing the top of the line hardware at the time which ofc is not always possible to do this with your budget. IMO If you are going to spend the money, spend a little more so that you are super happy and wont have any regrets. This is why if your budget doesnt fit a lot of people upgrade piece by piece. usually the video card is the last bit to be upgraded because they are the largest cost white being the quickest to go out of date. For example the same friend who recently upgraded to a 780 upgraded his case, cpu, motherboard, and ram 2 years ago to a decent i52500k & held off upgrading the video card till now. Also it is worth mentioning that the reason he opted for the 780 over anything else is because not only is it (arguably) the best video card it has improvements over the last generation chips. for example the 770 is just a beefier 680. The 780 runs the gk110 chip and also has larger bandwith etcetc (these things have been discussed to death on countless forums and i am just stating my opinion on it). I think that the 780 provides better future proofing and value retention.
Build Recommendations:
Now that my own general mindset has been given here are some recommendations to your build.
Company Opinions
I hate Newegg and have had nothing but crappy experiences with them. I only purchase from them if absolutely necessary and cross my fingers. I almost buy exclusively from Amazon now as i have amazon prime and amazons customer service is unparalleled. I also usually get bad cases of buyer remorse and amazons no quibbles 30 day return with no restocking fee is awesome. + free shipping with prime.
As for choice of mouse and keyboard im a razer fan =P.
Final Remark:
This is probably going to have you go over budget. I would recommend doing a piece by piece upgrade as you get the funds instead of compromising. At the end of the day do what you personally will be happy with and that wont give you regrets. A good friend of mine thinks way different from me about choosing of hardware and that is why i want to give you background on my thinking. If you have any questions feel free =].
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-SuperClocked-Graphics-02G-P4-2774-KR/dp/B00CZIQXBA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1373609361&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=evga+770+acx
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B00A0HZMGA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1373610614&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=corsair+h60
Corsair CW-9060007-WW Hydro Series High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler H60 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0HZMGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ALn9AbM6HBWWF
Why would anyone buy your cooler when they can get it on amazon for the exact same price?
> I can also testify that the 212 EVO is an absolute pain in the ass to install and am convinced that is why it's so cheap. probably spent 1/2 the build time just making sure I got it seated properly. Works like a charm though.
Next time give one of the simple Corsair liquid coolers a shot. Got one a few weeks ago and it was my first time installing an after-market CPU cooler and it wasn't too bad at all.
I highly recommend a closed loop CPU cooler like this one
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A0HZMGA?keywords=cpu%20cooler%20liquid&amp;qid=1452812712&amp;ref_=sr_1_3&amp;sr=8-3
It's a bit more expensive, but worth it.
You can skip the RAID and just get a SATA expansion card if it's the number of ports your worried about.
You'd only want a RAID card if you're going to be doing RAID setups that aren't natively supported by your mobo.
Not seeing much that's compelling besides the Logitech G930s at $59 and the Syba SATA controllers at $22.
A lot of the components are around the same price as the items go for new.
https://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Controller-Non-Raid-SI-PEX40064/dp/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=IO+Crest+4+Port+SATA+III+PCI-e+2.0+x1+Controller+Card+Marvell+Non-Raid+with+Low+Profile+Bracket+SI-PEX40064&qid=1566925845&s=gateway&sr=8-1 shove one of these cheap ones in. Plug some new drives to it. Start replacing the drives. Once 4 of the drives replaced just power down and pull the other drives out if that is what you need to do. Then finish the rest or get two of those cheap cards.
Nope. Electricity works that way, data doesn't.
https://i.imgur.com/zBSFsfj.png
You will need to plug the 960 EVO into the top most M.2 slot, labelled M.2_3
That will leave you with 7 SATA ports.
You will then need a PCIe to SATA card, to give you the extra 2 ports you need.
https://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Controller-Non-Raid-SI-PEX40064/dp/B00AZ9T3OU
You'll plug it into the PCIe_4 slot.
I have a server motherboard with SAS -> SATA ports so I can plug in one of these and get 4x SATA ports from one port. For power, I use these power splitters that allow me to neatly add power to a column of HDDs. I run one of the splitters per power line from the PSU. Before I had a server motherboard, I used this PCIE SATA card.
pci Sata ports
pci extension
Then you can always get a pci ssd adapter.
How many PCIe lanes do you have free? Do you have a PCIe slot with 8 lanes, 4 lanes, or just 1?
If you only got a short 1 lane slot free, just get one of those JBOD 4 port SATA cards:
(http://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Controller-Non-Raid-SI-PEX40064/dp/B00AZ9T3OU)
If you got a 4 lane or 8 lane slot slot, there is a version that used 2x lanes.
3Gbps SATA is fast enough for spinning hard drives.
If you need eight SATA ports, start considering used SAS controllers for around $100. Those controllers come in 4x and 8x lane configurations.
As for power consumption, what is the brand/model of your 650W power supply? A good 650W PSU can handle 24+ drives. A bad one is going to give you intermittent problems.
I have one of these that has worked well for me. I think there are better performance devices out there, but for a HDD that's just storing media for me it has worked like a charm.
IO Crest 4 Port SATA III PCI-e 2.0 x1 Controller Card Marvell Non-Raid with Low Profile Bracket SI-PEX40064 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FUw-BbJYBQTGS
Like the other commenters have said, you don't want a RAID card, but either an HBA or SATA expansion card.
Here's a 4-port on on amazon.es
There's plenty of reviews of the same model on amazon.com saying it works out-of-the-box with FreeNAS.
My bad, you can order cheap SATA III cards off amazon like this one https://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Controller-Non-Raid-SI-PEX40064/dp/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500755641&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=sata+card
I used this thing. This one only gets you four SATA ports, but there are other models that'll get you more. I chose this one because of the price and I didn't want the card to add any sort of hardware RAID. I wanted to just add more ports and pass the disks to FreeNAS for RAID.
I believe Dell makes two kinds of OptiPlex's. Small form factor and Large form factor. Mine was the LFF. I'm not sure about the differences in motherboards between the two.
If I recall correctly, I put this card into the 1 PCIe 16 slot, leaving (2?) more available PCIe ports.
heres another one at half the price, however it appears to only work with windows... ill keep looking though
edit: forgot link, heres another one alsohttp://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Profile-Bracket-SI-PEX40064/dp/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=sr_1_39?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1382827898&sr=1-39&keywords=pcie+to+sata+3
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815287028
and another: http://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-HyperDuo-Brackets-SI-PEX40057/dp/B00AZ9T264/ref=sr_1_47?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1382828245&amp;sr=1-47&amp;keywords=pcie+to+sata+3
heres my amazon search for the amazon links: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_pg_3?rh=n%3A172282%2Cn%3A541966%2Cn%3A193870011%2Cn%3A3012291011%2Cn%3A284718%2Ck%3Apcie+to+sata+3&amp;page=3&amp;sort=price&amp;keywords=pcie+to+sata+3&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1382828285
Just finished my first build, and realised I need more SATA III ports than the 2 on my GA-AB350M-Gaming-3.
In lieu of a motherboard change, I'm looking to add more with a PCI-e card.
Am I right in thinking that this "Syba SI-PEX40064 SATA III 4 Port PCI-e x1 Controller Card" will:
a) fit into a PCI Express x16 slot, running at x4 (PCIEX4) (PCI Express 2.0 standard) on the GA-AB350M-Gaming-3?
b) work just like SATA III ports on the motherboard (same speed, function)?
2 SSDs are already attached to the 2 SATA III ports on the motherboard.
I intend to attach 2 old HDDS (1.5 TB + 500 GB, 5900 rpm Sata III 6 Gb/s) to the card, and another SSD in the future.
How many PCIE slots do you have open? You can always just get one of these
IO Crest 4-port SATA III PCIe 2.0 x2 Controller Card Green, SI-PEX40064 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3fkRAbD3HN5GJ
Rebuild your case if you don’t have enough space and get hot swappable 3.5 bays. It all just depends on budget and what you want / have.
i/o crest works wonders, it's x1, 4 sata III ports that be had at $35. I/O Crest SI-PEX40064 i'm sure you can find them cheaper.
&#x200B;
they are also known as SYBA SI-PEX40064 aka. IOCrest IO-PCE9215-4I
(from unraid HW comp list: 4 port, PCIex1, SATA III, Marvell 88SE9215, bootable, working out of the box, supports drives > 2.2 TB)
I use that on my low power box with four 2TB wd greens and don't have any issues. if you want to go with something better, SAS2008/LSI 9201/9211 HBA card on IT MODE is the clear cut winner for ease and compatibility. cons: they're a little more expensive ($65 + price of cables).
Oh thanks! I didn't know that would fit.
Would this suit my needs?
https://www.amazon.ca/IOCrest-SI-PEX40064-Port-Controller-Components/dp/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=sr_1_3?rps=1&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525245309&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=pcie%2Bsata&amp;th=1
What about this? A bit better?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Network-Interface-Cards/Syba-PCI-e-Controller-Profile-Brackets/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484146847&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=syba+4+port
With regards to additional sata connections, a SAS backplane to A HBA card is out the question at the moment but to start with would something like this be fine to use:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Network-Interface-Cards/Syba-PCI-e-Controller-Profile-Brackets/B00AZ9T3OU
If so would it be fine to connect the drives that plex use to that or will that cause issues with the plex server? (if im watching something on a hdd connected to the pci card and my partner wants to watch something else on the ipad but that is on a different hdd also connected to the pci card)
I have a 4-port PCI-e expansion card, using it without any issues on 2 1TB drives, and 1 500GB drive. Model number is SI-PEX40064.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZ9T3OU/
I've used several SATA PCI-E x1 cards in my hacks. Ppl on TMx86 can tell you what ones work, but here's one I got recently and it works great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1. There's also an 8 port version but it's like $90... of which wasn't in my budget when I got it.
IO Crest 8 Port Sata using the Marvell 88SE9705 chipset
Would not recognize all of the drives, further researched pointed to the Windows Driver issues.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ESFEI2E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s03?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Ableconn PEX10-SAT 10 Port SATA
This card is a work horse, I have had no issues with it under Windows 10. Chipset ASMedia ASM1062 + 2x JMicron JMB575
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0177GBY0Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
IO Crest 4-port SATA III PCIe
Chipset Marvell 88SE9215
I am running two of these cards with out issue with Windows 10
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Nope. The single connector on that cable is a SFF-8087 SAS Connector (NOT a SATA connector which your motherboard will have!).
SAS (Serial Attached SCSI, server grade / enterprise) controllers are backwards-compatible with SATA (Serial ATA, "mainstream" / consumer) Drives, but SATA is not forwards-compatible with SAS. If you have a SAS Controller, yes you can hook up 4 drives to a single SAS port, but if you have SAS Drives (And for this purpose that cable can be thought of as turning your drives into SAS Drives even though technically it really isn't) you can't connect them to a SATA Controller.
SAS Controllers are server-grade gear, and come in at several hundreds of dollars for the "cheap" ones.
Get a cheap HBA (Host Bus Adapter) card to go in a PCIe port, like the ones everyone else is suggesting.
This one is 4 port and (allegedly) has hot swap support (no rebooting when plugging / unplugging drives) which your motherboard probably won't have (Some nice ones do though):
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00AZ9T3OU/
But I'm sure you could find cheaper.
Get any computer power supply. This is the first one that came up on amazon and it will do up to 34 amps on the 12V rail: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4
Edit: Amazon also has some for ~$20.
The website says it has a 300w PSU. Technically speaking there should be no problem since the 750 ti has a very low power intake.
To be on the safe side I would suggest getting this PSU
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-80PLUS-Certified-ATX12V-100-W1-0430-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1411319791&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=psu
I'd recommend a PSU from a more reputable brand:
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-80PLUS-Certified-ATX12V-100-W1-0430-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4
Hey it's me again. I have a HP p7-1120 and need a new power supply cus I got a new video card. I want this one but how do I know if it'll fit?
The PSU is probably not very good, and I don't really understand AMDs naming scheme, but the CPU looks okay, the GPU is perfectly fine, the case looks pretty cool, and AFAICT it should be fine for cooling, if it ever seems to be under performing, or less than six months after you get it, I suggest putting in a better PSU, at least rated for 400 watts, any name brand should be fine, because I'm not in europe I can't really tell you which one would be both cheap and good, but in america this one is pretty much the best PSU on a budget.
I'm sorry Automod, pcpartpicker's referral links are the bane of my existence.
I would get a cheaper gpu and cheaper psu and not bother with that sketchy amazon vendor for ram. using pcpp, these look solid
EVGA 430w
80+ efficiency, reputable brand, and decent cables.
Can be had for 5-10$ cheaper though, I'd say its still worth it.
Hey, sorry about the late reply. I had an early night (received your message at 11pm here in the UK).
Thanks for the picture. That seems to be a generic PSU. It may run fine for now but who knows how long it will last, and what it might take along with it, if it does end up dying. It would be ideal that you upgrade to a decent PSU with an 80 plus rating. Such as this.
The 750 ti would do you just fine. You can check out some benchmarks, here. You should be getting around an average of 45fps in Far Cry 4 at 1080p and a solid 60fps in Skyrim (set to ultra, with anti aliasing turned down). However, it will struggle when trying to run ACU, as it's a terribly optimized game which even 980s in SLI have trouble running at a stable 60fps.
If you have the money to spend, I'd recommend you upgrade your PSU to something like this and going for the gtx 970.
Feel free to give me shout if you have any questions. =]
Sure! It's this one. I went for the lowest wattage I could find as this system has very low requirements and also looked for something with a 120mm fan so it would be as quiet as possible.
Looks good. But that PSU is really expensive. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-ATX12V-Supply-120-G1-0650-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405969637&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=650w+psu
Is much better for the price.
Does it have to be new? I just bought this for $55 on Amazon Warehouse Deals with 20% off.
The 650 watt but This is a better deal than both of them
The green CX series is pretty notorious for having quality issues and I don't think many people would recommend getting it when there are plenty of alternatives.
I'd recommend something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Continuous-Warranty-120-G1-0650-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW/?tag=logicaincrem-20
Best I can recommend is the EVGA 650 SuperNOVA G3 here. However, it is $100 right now which is a bit expensive for it. I only like fully modular power supplys and love the eco switch on the G3, however, if you want a lower cost go for the superNOVA NEX here. Good luck!
edit: Please note the NEX does not have a eco switch, which keeps the fan not running in low power idle situations. The G3 has it. I recommend 650 for future upgrades.
edit 2: That moment I notice you're Aussie
I wouldn't reccomend it. i've heard bad things about those cheap corsair PSUs, get a good EVGA one. https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-120-G1-0650-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492250880&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=EVGA+600W
A VR build doesn't have to be stupid expensive anymore. Just keep in mind that no matter what you buy is going to replaced with bigger and better parts in a year or two. It's just how pc building works. Doesn't mean what you build will become shitty though. I'm a big fan of setting myself a budget and staying well below it. I prefer to keep my extra money in my pocket, but that's just me. I honestly think a 1080 or 1080TI is overkill unless you want to do some 4k gaming, but then that requires a 4k monitor. Not worth it if you're building a VR rig. Just my opinion.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor | $339.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Corsair - H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $107.89 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI - Z370 GAMING PLUS ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $109.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $164.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung - 860 Evo 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $129.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $42.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | MSI - GeForce GTX 1070 Ti 8GB Video Card | $499.99 @ Amazon
Case | Deepcool - DUKASE V2 ATX Mid Tower Case | $34.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $69.99 @ Amazon
Monitor | Asus - VG278Q 27.0" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor | $294.50 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1795.21
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-05-21 18:50 EDT-0400 |
https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4
This supplies 5V and 2.5A of power. Cheap too.
This is my favorite set up to give friends. Looks good and mostly foolproof hardware wise!
Raspberry Pi 3 Model B
Rasptendo SNES Case (IMO, connect the power button as intended, but either solder the reset button as per the method mentioned in there or don't connect it at all. This way there's no way for the user to do a non-safe shutdown of the OS)
Dual fan heatsink
Bluetooth adapter (more reliable than built-in bluetooth, change /boot/config.txt to disable onboard Bluetooth)
PS3 SIXAXIS Controller (Dualshock 3's work too, but I like the legit OEM ones, and those are hard to find. The convincing bootlegs/fakes are usually impossible to tell apart from legit ones when ordering online. That's why I look for used SIXAXIS controllers - no bootlegs. Also, I use PS3 controllers because pairing can be done or re-done entirely by connecting up mini-USB cables. No menus necessary once you set it up the first time!)
Sandisk 64GB MicroSD
Canakit PSU
HDMI cable, Mini-USB cable.
-----
For a more serious, less user-friendly but more overclockable setup, ditch the case/heatsink above and go with these instead:
Some kind of heatsink, I'm using one from the Kintaro case but I suspect the cheap stick-on heatsinks are probably fine too
this open-air case (throw out the fan as it's way too loud... I'm sure other open-air cases will work but I like that this one has the 40mm setup for the below fan and the little grille to prevent curious fingers from getting in there at least)
this Noctua 40mm 5v fan (expensive, but quiet and provides solid cooling)
$35 is just for the Pi 3 itself. You can find Pi cases pretty cheap, like $7-$10. From there it's the HDMI cable (which you probably already have laying around), MicroSD card, and power supply.
It's powered over USB to outlet wart plug. 2.5a is recommended, but you can probably get away with 2.0a or 2.1a, which is more common. Or buy a full standalone power plug for it. Assuming you don't have a microSD card, 32GB is only ~$10 these days, and you can get a 64GB one for about double that.
So total cost might be around $50-75 depending on accessories and what you already have at hand versus what you need to buy. Still quite cheap for a retro emulation rig (and can always be repurposed as something cool like a firewall or mini-PC or something, since there are Linux builds for the Pi as well).
Depending on the exact model of B, you want from 2-2.4A @ 5VDC to meet the 'official' spec. The RPi can run on less, but you're better off with a larger adapter than needed than the other way around. Adafruit, Canakit and the official RPi adapters are all good choices. They use thick conductors as well as an adequate power supply, so sufficient power makes it to the RPi.
No kit needed. Here's what you want:
Raspberry Pi
SD card
Power supply
Case
I've built around 75 of them, the above is what I've found works. Especially the power supply and SD card. I've had real mixed results with anything but the above.
Yea, this is what most people get, you just install an OS on a microSD and then pop it into the pi and ur good to go.
Skimping on a power supply can cause weird intermittent problems.
That being said, I like the Anker and the CanaKit power supply.
I have had great results with these two AC adapters, one switched and one not. Every other one I've tried was garbage. These two I have had no low voltage warnings in literally dozens of hours runtime.
CanaKit 5V 2.5A Raspberry Pi 3 B+ Power Supply / Adapter (UL Listed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lFX5Cb1FDKT41
This one.
I tried using an older Pi to host my pi-hole and compared it to a newer 3b+ and found no real difference in DNS lookups, but updates and the web interface were a lot slower and some things would run out of memory on the really old Pi. Ordered a second 3b+ and replaced the old Pi.
Power supply quality is critical, get a good one from Adafruit or Canakit.
A case is important to protect the Pi from damage, something simple is good enough, a dog-bone style works well and is a bit cooler if you have a safe place to mount the Pi, a more fully enclosed one is safer if the Pi is going to be banging around with a bunch of other stuff. Cooler really doesn't matter in a home install unless you are going to add something to your Pi that will cause it to run hot, fans, heatsinks and such really aren't needed.
SD cards are cheap, Samsung or Sandisk 32 GBs are excellent and you save pennies by going cheaper or smaller.
For Ethernet there is little difference in cables for the lengths you'll be using, and standard cable will work, get one a couple feet longer than the minimum and you'll have slack to work with.
So Pi, power supply, case, SD card and Ethernet cable will get you set up with a very nice Pi-hole.
You have some hungry sensors. If they are pulling off of the 5V rail on the Pi, then that pulls directly off of the usb power supply with no limiting factor other than the supply. If you are not planning on adding any more peripherals, then a 2.5 amp power supply will work. They are common and you can get them anywhere. Here is one from a reputable brand on Amazon. If you are considering adding more to the Pi, then maybe go with 3amp or more to be safe. Don't go with the 3.3V GPIO to power anything if you can get away with using the 5V. I have read that the 3.3V is limited to 50ma, although I have pulled more without side effects, I think it might cause damage in the long run.
Sure.
So I used this as a guide.
The petRockBlog and /r/raspberry_pi were also helpful resources.
I bought a Raspberry Pi B+ Complete Starter Kit, 2 Buffalo Classic USB Gamepads, and Zune A/V Output Cable. The A/V cable has to be compatible with a Zune, some A/V cables like this won't work. I learned that the hard way. I also bought a Mini Wireless Keyboard. A keyboard is required for the setup (any keyboard will do). I got the mini keyboard so I could have a keyboard in my car to troubleshoot potential issues while on the road. It's optional, but I recommend it.
Then I just followed the guide (mentioned above) to set up the RasPi with RetroPi, then plugged in all the cables, and bam I had a retro game console in my car.
NOTE: Instead of the 2.5A Power Supply included in the kit I used a standard micro usb cable plugged into a USB slot in the center console to power the RasPi.
So it appears that it does say 100-240V AC and 50-60 Hz on the cable. Here is the model on Amazon. After the input Hertz it also lists the amperes at 0.5A. The output is 5V and has 2.5A (not 1.5 or 2 like you mentioned). You can actually see it in this image if you zoom in.
Does it seem like it would be fine then to just add an adapter? Is the output important when plugging it into a socket, since basically I will only use it to power up the pi? Also, I have a B+ Model.
I unfortunately have limited knowledge of electrical things, so I guess there is no better time than now to learn that.
I've pasted links to all the items from amazon below. There's a lot of tutorials out there, but here's a good one that has all the information you need:
https://www.google.com/amp/www.pocket-lint.com/news/137374-can-t-buy-a-nes-classic-mini-how-to-build-your-own-retro-console-for-just-50.amphtml?client=safari
Official Raspberry Pi 3 Case - Red/White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CK3XTIE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KLsyybK7JT1C8
Retro NES Nintendo Entertainment System Original Console Art Video Game Vinyl Decal Skin Sticker Cover for Original Nintendo 3DS System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VMU8ZRW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nMsyyb955DVQ4
Raspberry Pi 3 Model B Motherboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CD5VC92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0MsyybX4SA6RR
CanaKit 5V 2.5A Raspberry Pi 3 Power Supply / Adapter / Charger (UL Listed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CNsyybASXJXZA
Samsung SDXC 64GB Class 10 UHS-1 Memory Card w/ Adapter, (MB-MC64DA/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01273JZMG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6NsyybQ5ADHJF
Retro-Link Wired NES Style USB Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GWKL3Y4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pOsyybP1FPB3K
Oh, you'll also need an hdmi cable.
I am using this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MARDJZ4
A second look at the reviews shows quite a few people still getting undervoltage with the 3b+. Guess I got what I paid for.
Late to the party here, but are there any other common reasons for it? I am still getting that warning even what should be a good adapter. Haven't been seeing any ill effects from that I think
A word of advice- don't go too cheap, that's how you end up spending a bunch of money on cheap power supplies instead of a little more one time on a good one. Here's the one I have for my Pi 2, been running it 19 days straight 24/7 for my Minecraft server with no issues.
Canakit 5V 2.5A power supply
I was looking at these,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B41WS48/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_QbriDb42ZSS20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0134EW7G8/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_NiriDb4735GCK
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F7W5KJS/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_djriDbXWZ6BG2
If you plan on doing any overclocking, there is a good motherboard tier list based on VRM's.
Also if you don't have an older generation Ryzen chip... You will want to check the list of motherboards that supports USB BIOS Flashback. This feature will allow you to flash the bios to the newer Zen 2 supporting bios without needing an older gen Ryzen chip. You may want to cross reference both of the lists.
The B450 Tomahawk is pretty reliable for the price and was just on sale (currently $100 on Amazon). It has decent VRM's, and it also supports the USB BIOS Flashback feature mentioned earlier. I personally just picked one up a few days ago on the last sale and plan to use that for my upcoming Zen 2 PC.
Wishing you luck on your future build!
PS: If you don't have a power supply yet, there is also a good PSU Tier list.
Get a B450 Tomahawk. Cheap and will overclock the 3600 easy.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F7W5KJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-lJiDb6T62SDF
Amazon is very flexible. Some items have free returns https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Crossfire-Motherboard-B450-Tomahawk/dp/B07F7W5KJS/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=b450+tomahawk&qid=1564295902&s=gateway&sr=8-1 for example.
If you claim its broken they pay the shipping fee, but if you put not needed anymore you havev to pay it
dont feel bad, its a huge company
Appreciate it, I'll just keep replying here if that's cool. Don't mind either way about PM but I do find lurkers might appreciate some of the advice. I'm set on the 2600, and its now 185 on Amazon so that helps. I'm pretty set on the tomahawk Mobo too which I think is lowest if you have prime.
I would like to see pics of the case, I hate the one I have its so dull and bulky but not also huge fan of the "I'M A GAMER" cases, which seem overpriced regardless. One you have is nice.
I might upgrade to a 1070 in a year+, from what I can tell that still pairs nicely with a 2600 but wanted to check. and lastly I do have 16 Gb of Ram but would consider getting some that works best with the Mobo and amd, did you already have Ram or did you buy to compliment the board.
edit: also would love a quite setup, my computer makes a decent amount of noise and I use it as part of the entertainment system.
What's the usage? Is this a budget build? How much RAM you need? is your case ATX or mATX?
For CPU, only 3600 will fit your budget out of the decent ones. Any lower and you'd be stepping into APU territory for low-budget builds.
Example combo: [3600] (https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-3600-12-Thread-Processor/dp/B07STGGQ18) ($195) + 16 GB RAM ($78) + B450 Tomahawk ($115) = $388.
This is US$ right, not Canadian or Australian?
this vs B450 Tomahawk for $115 or B450 ROG Strix for $120
Depends. How much are you looking to spend on one? if you are looking for something under $120 I can say this is pretty good. [I have heard many good things and have seen it used a lot.] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F7W5KJS/) Has good overclocking capabilities and still has the m.2 slot.
Well for cpu the ryzen 2600 is the best value cpu out there and gives great 1080p performance.
There are good b450 board like the Tomohawk b450 board which will fit right in that case I believe: https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Crossfire-Motherboard-B450-Tomahawk/dp/B07F7W5KJS
I just got this and it didn’t need a bios update.
I got the msi arsenal tomahawk. If you go to the Amazon warehouse used it's cheaper and there might still be a discount that brings it down to $71. Better then $110 new.
MSI Arsenal Gaming AMD Ryzen 1st and 2nd Gen AM4 M.2 USB 3 DDR4 DVI HDMI Crossfire ATX Motherboard (B450 Tomahawk) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F7W5KJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6aC4DbSZEMAPN
The discount is at checkout so you need to start the checkout process and see if it gives you the discount. If it doesn't you can always leave the checkout tab.
Thank you, I am upgrading from 4790k to 3600x, so I wanted a board with USB flash back, that's why I decided on the tomahawk.
This is the board I ordered
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07F7W5KJS?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image
more photos: https://imgur.com/gallery/j6JjbJb
Case: Fractal Design Meshify-C
MoBo: MSI Tomahawk B450
GPU: Sapphire NITRO+ RX580 8GB G5 SE
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700x
Memory: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600)
Cables: upHere sleeved cables (amazon)
Power: EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G+
Hey bro i made this up in a few minutes, this should be the best bang for your buck, for the next couple years.
$1074
Ryzen 5 3600X
$234
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SQBFN2D/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=buildcoresx-20&amp;linkId=2d3f71d0374068b18e41d03811e8cc8a&amp;language=en_US
Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2060 Super WINDFORCE OC
$399
https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-WINDFORCE-Graphics-Windforce-GV-N206SWF2OC-8GD/dp/B07TT8QQ5M/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=MPA948FRYPNS1XNEDGGJ&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=buildcoresx-20&amp;linkId=c9360a8718f317b11938194ddb8b3b93&amp;language=en_US
(2x8GB) Patriot Viper RGB 4133
$129
https://www.amazon.com/Patriot-Viper-Gaming-DDR4-4133MHz/dp/B07CX4ZW83/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1548893768&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=ddr4+4133&amp;psc=1&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=buildcoresx-20&amp;linkId=460c651c8574b6910def286d5bce0ca7&amp;language=en_US
ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 512GB
$69
https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1HMMJC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;refRID=P5AWX69KXGB9KAKAVWTG&amp;th=1&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=buildcoresx-20&amp;linkId=5cb81bf81991186b2903de817ded070c&amp;language=en_US
Asus TUF Gaming X570-Plus
$189
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-TUF-X570-Plus-Motherboard-Lighting/dp/B07SXFK1TP/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=%22x570%22&amp;qid=1562636196&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-7&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=buildcoresx-20&amp;linkId=4e9b379d943d0270c124a67e221456f3&amp;language=en_US
Thermaltake Smart 700W
$54
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Certified-Continuous-cooling-PS-SPD-0500NPCWUS-W/dp/B014W3EAX8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;refRID=5GD9E0T2WJ1XETZ33S3T&amp;th=1&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=buildcoresx-20&amp;linkId=4f418682bccde4472a22b671ee1c0697&amp;language=en_US
Empty Case
$0
https://amzn.to/2RYUQ7f
Empty CPU Cooler
$0
https://amzn.to/2RYUQ7f
Empty Monitor
$0
https://amzn.to/2RYUQ7f
Generated by BuildCores on October 21, 2019 10:04 AM
You can get a Corsair 275R for $75, RX570 8GB for ~$175 and a 1060 for ~$250. You can also get a 1660 for ~$300.
(I got the case and the RX570 for those prices)
It depends on the province, but I'd say prices in Canada in general are slightly higher than States (except when stuff goes on sale in States)
Example:
Ryzen 3600X (Amazon.com) ($248 USD = $323.1 CAD)
Ryzen 3600X (Amazon.ca) ($348 CAD)
In QC, tax is 15% (well, 14.975%) so you'd end up paying $400 CAD while in NY tax is 8% so you'd pay $349CAD.
The goal is to get the fastest single core you can, from the latest generation. Buy the 3600X.
3600X on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SQBFN2D/
What does, for example, this Amazon link tell you? For me, in Finland, it says "EUR 19.90 Shipping", so they'll ship it here.
EDIT: You could also try alternate.de, you can request a quote from them and they'll send you an offer containing the shipping costs etc.
He’s telling the truth. 3600x
Nothing popping up on Amazon US either, if it makes you feel any better :)
Ninja edit: I was wrong, looks like the 3600X just popped up stateside
https://www.amazon.co.uk/AMD-Ryzen-3600x-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07SQBFN2D
Posted a thread here for anyone else
https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/ca7aw7/amazon_uk_links/
Hoy empezaba en USA, en amazon se agotaron al toque (menos el Ryzen 5 3600x) y acá en Chile los irán trayendo en la semana (que día, ni idea)
that is bullshit, there is no valid vendor listed on amazon. No 3k series CPU is available from amazon.de. The one marketplace shop that is listing it for 734 is just a fake/scalping shop. no one would seriously order it from there.
go to https://geizhals.de/?cat=cpuamdam4&amp;xf=6773_2019%2FQ2%7E6773_2019%2FQ3%7E820_AM4
if you want a better price overview
Amazon UK links are up.
Ryzen 9 3900X
Ryzen 7 3800X
Ryzen 7 3700X
Ryzen 5 3600X
Ryzen 5 3600
Ryzen 3 3400G
Ryzen 3 3200G
FYI if you install their app for the first time there's a link on the front page to claim a £10 off discount.
Just bought a 3700X for £309.99.
The amazon AMD shop has them but overpriced :(
AMD Ryzen 5 3600x 4,4GHz AM4 36MB Cache Wraith Spire https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07SQBFN2D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qnJiDb9BYTHB6
Also waiting for the other shops to post them online. Looking to get a 2600x
its here at $249
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-3600X-12-Thread-Processor/dp/B07SQBFN2D/ref=dp_ob_title_ce
I just want to give you this prices as a reference:
You can invest like additional 100$ in the CPU and that gives you a solid ~ 500, as I've seen Ram veries from 100-150 (depeneding on your preferences)
For a Video Card - https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GTX-1060-6G/dp/B01IEKYD5U/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=Nvidia+1060+MSI+gaming&qid=1571422248&sr=8-7 as a price reference (thats a low-mid end video)
and that leaves you with power supply, the case itself (be careful those can be a devil to pick).
The 3600X is only a few dollars more right now. I would grab that if you can.
More specifically, the Ryzen 5 3600X and RTX 2060 6GB would work well if you're going for a mid-ranged build (AMD route).
Great setup man, only thing I can recommend is switching out that 3600 with a 3600x, as there’s a discount on the 3600x, making it only $7 more than the regular 3600, which is definitely a steal
3600: https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-3600-12-Thread-Processor/dp/B07STGGQ18
3600x: https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-3600X-12-Thread-Processor/dp/B07SQBFN2D
Possibly, but let's be honest - if I did, people would get mad and call me a liar.
But to spell it out:
AMD Ryzen 3600x: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SQBFN2D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
MSI MPG Gaming Carbon WiFi. : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T4M3RTR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Sabrent PCI-E 4.0 2TB Rocket NvME drives (x2): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TN1MNJ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
16GB Corsair Vengance 3466Mhz (2x8GB) DDR4: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FBPDLN7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Sticks of ram in slots 2 and 4 (lighting kit in 1 and 3)
Rockets are in the M.2 slots under the heatsinks on the board.
Amazon looks to still have stock of the Ryzen 5 3600X if you look under available sellers one is Amazon itself.
well.. if you really want it... https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B07SQBFN2D/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=new go under other seller and it's by Amazon.com. Cheaper too at $248.50, the Amazon discount!
Thanks for the comments everyone, they were very helpful. I ended up getting:
AMD 3600X (the 3700X was $100 more)
32GB of Corsair LPX (crazy how cheap RAM is now, went with 32gb instead of 16gb)
MSI X570 Gaming Edge mobo
Came out to $630 with a free copy of BL3
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B07SQBFN2D 229 on amazon right now
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor | $239.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler | $34.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI Z270 SLI PLUS ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $129.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $112.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $74.99 @ Best Buy
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | Asus Radeon RX 480 8GB ROG STRIX Video Card | $259.99 @ Amazon
Case | NZXT S340 - Designed by Razer ATX Mid Tower Case | $94.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $79.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $92.99 @ Best Buy
Monitor | LG 29UM67 29.0" 2560x1080 60Hz Monitor | $269.50 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1440.40
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-21 15:10 EST-0500 |
Dude... You can get a 1070 for just a bit more.
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-GAMING-Support-08G-P4-5173-KR/dp/B01KVZBNY0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497036268&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=gtx+1070
It's available here on the U.S. amazon store.
if you live in the US, then get this.
I know this is more than you were looking to spend with tax, but just wanted to let you know: https://smile.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-GAMING-Support-08G-P4-5173-KR/dp/B01KVZBNY0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493727819&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=EVGA+GeForce+GTX+1070+8GB+GDDR5&amp;sa-no-redirect=1
Between those 2:
https://www.amazon.ca/ASUS-GeForce-STRIX-Graphic-STRIX-GTX1070-8G-GAMING/dp/B01HEQYQHA
https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-08G-P4-5173-KR/dp/B01KVZBNY0/
Which one should I pick? Or any 3rd option? (Ideally sold by amazon.ca - no 3rd parties)
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $189.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | MSI H110M PRO-VD PLUS Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $46.88 @ OutletPC
Memory | Avexir Core Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $46.97 @ Jet
Storage | PNY CS1311 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $64.99 @ Best Buy
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.78 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB WINDFORCE OC 6G Video Card | $249.99 @ Jet
Case | NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | SeaSonic S12II 620W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $49.99 @ B&H
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $88.58 @ OutletPC
Monitor | Acer GN246HL 24.0" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor | $188.83 @ Jet
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1045.99
| Mail-in rebates | -$10.00
| Total | $1035.99
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-30 06:33 EST-0500 |
Here's my current build. I think before I buy the parts, I want to upgrade to a 1070; mostly to make sure everything runs smooth as butter on a 144hz monitor.
For 1070s, I've mostly looked at this one. (EVGA 1070, $389.99)
For the price, is this the best 1070 I can get? I'd rather not spend much more than $400 on a GPU.
BTW: The cheap-ish mobo on the build is still worrying me a bit. Will I be fine with it, or should I upgrade to a nicer mATX/ATX board?
Thanks!
hate to break it to you, but that's the current going rate for brand new on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KVZBNY0?tag=slicinc-20&amp;ascsubtag=932fa978371911e7961deea10ebe15520INT
If you look for other sellers, Amazon is still selling it for 289 Prime available to be delivered at the end of the month. I just ordered mine at 11:15 EDT. Link
Don't necessarily need to go for a high end one but make sure you go for a 80+ rating. I have this one
https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-Bronze-Warranty-Supply-100-BT-0450-K1/dp/B01N9X3F8F/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524840008&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=evga+450w+80%2B+bronze+psu&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51e9xdnRi9L&amp;ref=plSrch
I really like this and might use an old PSU to rig up a desktop vape.
For anyone interested you can do this with a modular computer PSU and not worry about splicing 120v lines. This PSU is capable of 35 amps on its 12v line. All you need to turn it on and off is either a permanent jumper wire and use the PSU switch, or get a switch and use it as the jumper wire. Then to connect the mod to it is as easy as trimming one set of pci wires so you only have the 12v and gnd lines. Then the mod is quickly detachable and all lines have safe connectors. That PSU also has a 3 year warranty, no idea if the other one does too.
You can find a good PSU for pretty cheap. This one is 450W and only $40
EVGA 450 BT, 80+ Bronze 450W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-BT-0450-K1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9X3F8F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XNY5AbJ93928V
I would Highly recommend an ssd, a couple things you could do to save price is remove thermal paste, cryorig provides good enough paste, go for this power supply, it's on sale (plus no ketchup and mustard cables). Your case already has fans, so those aren't needed either. Also, the pentium g4560 performs very similarly to an i3 and costs only 70 dollars.
https://smile.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-Warranty-Supply-100-BT-0450-K1/dp/B01N9X3F8F/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498487697&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=EVGA+450+BT
https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/6qpqxq/cpu_amd_ryzen_3_1200_9899_10999_1099_wcoupon/
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-Warranty-Supply-100-BT-0450-K1/dp/B01N9X3F8F
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 3 1200 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor | $98.99
Motherboard | MSI - B350M GAMING PRO Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $69.99 @ Amazon
Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2800 Memory | $65.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | Zotac - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB Mini Video Card | $283.99 @ Newegg
Case | Raidmax - Viper II ATX Mid Tower Case | $34.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA - 450W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $24.99
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $628.93
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-31 18:33 EDT-0400 |
This is what I would build. Overclocking the r3 1200 takes only a few minutes and you have a pc that's able to play just about any game at high to ultra settingsd. But you may be able to find the gtx 1060 6gb cheaper.
Edit: Here's how to overclock ryzen 3 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lUNf2OG195g&amp;list=PLqP0D-PxmaKzAuq6iPhFxrH5DsEw6p-W3&amp;index=3
EVGA puts out some great quality ones for really cheap. Here is a great example, if youre not overclocking, bronze are really gonna be the best ones you'll need. Just make sure double check your wattage lines up (you can check that on PCPP)
prices are a little over board EVGA 450BT (newer model) for 15+shipping less than your's
arctic freezer TR($2 more than your's, but you don't include shipping)
Enermax 280 TR4 for outright cheaper
G3 for about the same price(would probably be cheaper on amazon if you added shipping)
consider lowering prices to sell, GLWS
EVGA 450 BT, 80+ Bronze 450W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-BT-0450-K1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9X3F8F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TIN5ybD59S36H
I would not trust that power supply, does it even have the 8pin pcie connector? I think googling it shows its only 324W for 12V rails and no PCIE connector so the RX 480 would not even work on that without adapter and I wouldnt risk using it, chance of burning the PC up in flames.
Either way that case and PSU would have to go for something like the EVGA BT 450W bronze PSU: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-Warranty-Supply-100-BT-0450-K1/dp/B01N9X3F8F/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492445573&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=evga+bt
Then also find some cheap case to go with it.
But yea, you do have the right idea OP =)
Definitely the 3470, but do not buy that PSU. It's garbage. Get this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9X3F8F/?tag=pcpapi-20
Where are you getting these parts?
44.99 on Amazon and free shipping
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01N9X3F8F/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01N9X3F8F/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
EVGA is currently on a massive discount, a better deal :)
What's the caveat with this power supply? 80+ bronze, black sleeved cables, 450 watt and only $21.99? Should I be skeptical or purchase 2 more for future builds?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N9X3F8F/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1_1_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
The 450w should be adequate. For reference, the CPU has a 65w TDP, and according to Tom's Hardware, the 980 is typically about 180w during gaming. However, the 980 may peak to about 280w during stress testing. Add another about 50w for peripherals and drives, this comes to almost 300w. The other 200w can feed the motherboard, although the motherboard probably uses half that. Plus, Amazon reviews have comments of running the 980 on this PSU, even in SLI.
You may need 16 gbs of ram when the build gets older and processes start to build up / when you stream any given game. The WD SSD you have is kinda expensive - you can find 240 Gb kingston SSDs on Ebay for ~$60-70 when they hit a sale (happens semi-often, check /r/buildapcsales daily). 1050Ti is great for budget builds - check around and price match and for upcoming GPU deals. Don't forget the case and PSU. You should be able to run off This PSU and put it all in a case Like this one or similar
You could also try switching down to the Ryzen 5 1400, or waiting for the Ryzen 3.
Newer and cheaper PSU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N9X3F8F/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
RAM: Go with a single 8gb stick for upgradibilty in the future.
Skim out on optical drive and go for this case instead: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NGCS7YA/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N9X3F8F/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Been lurking for a bit, never posted. I’m attempting my first build in 15 years so I have a question that I’m not sure warrants it’s own post so I’m bringing it here.
Looking to do things on a tight budget so I’m going the seemingly tried and true optiplex upgrade route. I’m looking at the following at the moment:
Dell Optiplex 9010(Intel Core i7-3770) or 9020(Intel Core i7-4770), and hopefully having 16gb ram off, EBay and adding the following:
Gpu: GTX 1060 6gb used off EBay
EVGA 450 BT 80+ Bronze 450w psu
https://www.amzn.com/B01N9X3F8F
SanDisk SSD PLUS 240GB
https://www.amzn.com/B01F9G43WU
What am I missing as far as issues/conflicts etc? Will I be bottlenecking my cpu with the 1060? Is there a better build within a $100-$150 range that I should be considering? Any other thoughts or suggestions would be great.
This is a typical price for this CPU.
Amazon.ca has it on for the exact same price, not on sale.
Confirma:
Portugal
amazon.es
Compara o resto..
£399 from one seller on amazon who is probably wondering why he is selling a lot of cpus right now.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Intel-BX80684I78700K-Core-i7-8700K-Processor/dp/B07598VZR8/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538588931&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=8700k
M2 Drive
Fans
Fan
Motherbord
Ram
CPU
Water Cooling
GPU
Gpu Power Adapter
Psu
Case
SSD
HDD
Cable Sleeving
24 pin white cable
This is everything that I have in my PC,I don't know the buget,beacuse I upgraded my pc so many times,i think it's around 1500-2000 euros.
When trying to decide on what power your PC needs a good website to use is http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/ - it'll give you a general idea since I get confused with all the "i7/i5/i3 XXXX gen X" nonsense too.
That'll build you a tower. Then you just need external components. Monitor, keyboard, mouse, headset, chair, desk, etc. Depending on what you have available and stuff it can vary so I'll let you price out that stuff.
$1,358 pre-taxes if you go with i7 8700k, and GTX 1060 3 GB. For the tower. Taxes in, plus all the other components you're still looking at pushing close to $2000. That's CND I think. If you do a little shopping around you might get a decent deal on a few items and look into different price points between AMD and Intel if you choose their Board/Chip/GPU combos.
You can purchase an i7 8700K on Amazon for £319.98 and I'm pretty sure the one this week or last
sold for £210is on sale for £230 (u/CyclonicCS) as well as one sold for the same price 21 days ago so maybe save yourself £80+ if purchasing second-hand.Dunno if this is any good to you at Under £700. Wouldn't know where to start with a Z370 mobo but there's plenty within your price range. ☺️
P.S. I realise the i7 8700K must be de-lidded but is it not cheaper to DiY?
It’s still £303,99 at Amazon just they’ve hidden it well!
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/B07598VZR8/ref=mw_dp_olp?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=new
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IEKG402/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521012120&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=2tb&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=5152Tk32IxL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07598VZR8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521012014&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=i7+8700k&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51cmJqb4I2L&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075RHWCC4/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_img_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=Y8HXXRND52YXQAJCPVDA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0134EW7G8/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_img_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=Y8HXXRND52YXQAJCPVDA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005BE058W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521012102&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=evga+supernova+750&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51UcIW5x4QL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IR6LMLO/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521012187&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=1080&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51bpp6rWCmL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073SBX6TY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521012150&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=ssd+m.2&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41GJN9qS2CL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XX8Q1CL/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521012171&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=nzxt+kraken+x62
The parts are
8700k
Mobo z370
2x8gb ddr4
Kraken x62 to keep the cpu cool
Thx 1080(had to drop the ti due to prices)
M.2 ssd for boot drive
2tb hdd for storage
Evga supernova 750w
If you have extra change invest in noctua high static pressures fan to optimize cooling
I used a different solution, I bought an Elgato HD60s capture card. Now I can connect my PS4 directly to my laptop, via usb 3.0 and use the laptop as a pass thru monitor for the PS4, skipping the remote play middle man. It's lag free and works very well when I have to go out of town. Plus it DVR's your gameplay on your laptop HD (if you want) to post them later. Pretty cool little gadget.
The capture card really doesn't affect the outgoing stream that way. You can capture at 1080p 60FPS and still tell OBS to broadcast at 480p 30FPS.
I'm pretty sure the Elgato HD60 is still the preferred choice for starting streamers looking to take the next step. It's what I'm still using at least.
Elgato.
Avermedia is the cheapest with the most options, but limited to 1080p 30fps.
The Elgato HD60 S is hard to beat for 1080p 60fps streaming., even at its price.
Links can be posted, just not affiliate links.
I have a laptop and not a desktop, so I use an external device. I use an older model of this Elgato device for capturing my BotW spredruns just fine.
Really, you'll be fine with any card/device from Elgato.
I've been trying to do this for a long time. You need a capture card to do it now with newer Macs that don't support Target Display mode.
@Steve132 is completely correct. It sounds like you're trying to use an output-only as an input.
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To achieve HDMI input into a PC, you'll need what's called a "Capture Card". The brand name "Elgato" is a favorite amongst many YouTube and Twitch streamers. Search "Elgato Capture Card" on Amazon, or see here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DRWCOGA
&#x200B;
Note that while Elgato is more expensive than its competitors, it beats them outright on simplicity of use regarding its software package. Many other capture cards will leave it up to the end-user to figure out how to make intricate video issues 'just work'.
This is what I'm assuming you are talking about.
Anything wrong | with | these?
There was a workaround I did back in the day, but I see that I had a slightly different model than you did, too. I’d honestly drop it and go with this. I apologize for the misinformation—your capture card looked very similar to my old one, which I used composite to HDMI. Or, you can opt for the (renewed) PCIe version of that, which I believe is cheaper, and the input lag and video lag is less.
https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Game-Capture-HD60-technology/dp/B01DRWCOGA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521516591&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=Elgato+HD60S just to be sure this is the one right?
I use OBS as the program on my pc and an Elgato to plug the hdmi’s together with the pc. Here’s a link to the Elgato I use.
I did not realize I failed to respond to this beyond that. I apologize for that.
In terms of capturing game footage, you need go for a capture card. I would personally recommend one that is PCIe-based if possible. Could be any of these (all are Amazon US listings, check your local country or elsewhere if applicable):
If you are on a laptop, these obviously won't work, so you are stuck with this.
Then (assuming you have a webcam), in order to reconcile game footage with you and your friends playing, using a streaming software like OBS (or other variants like OBS Studio and Streamlabs OBS) means that you won't have to go back and do it in a video editing software like VEGAS Pro or Adobe Premiere, but it's good to have those to splice and export videos in the preferred format for places like YouTube.
https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Game-Capture-HD60-PlayStation/dp/B01DRWCOGA/ref=sr_1_3?crid=12XYQ9CHJLG52&amp;keywords=hd60s+capture+card&amp;qid=1556630766&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=hd+60s%2Caps%2C156&amp;sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/Canon-VIXIA-HF-R800-Camcorder-Black/dp/B01N7OAH3I/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Canon+-+VIXIA+HF+R800+HD+Flash+Memory+Camcorder+-+Black&amp;qid=1556631161&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-2\
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Portable-Cellphone-Bluetooth-Smartphone/dp/B0787S7N32/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?keywords=albott+camera+tripod+20in&amp;qid=1556631321&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr1
Here are the links to the stuff I use to give you a Idea or price
wont need a programe to add it to slobs.
you would just add it the camera as a video source
Elgato Game Capture Card HD60 S - Stream and Record in 1080p60, for PlayStation 4, Xbox One & Xbox 360
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CamelCamelCamel Amazon Price History
These two are already gone?!
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Gaming-GV-N1060G1GAMING-6GD-Graphics/dp/B01IEA1IMQ
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GeForce-GTX-1060-GAMING/dp/B01IEKYD5U
MSI 1060 Gaming X is currently in stock on Amazon...five left, better hurry! It is slightly over your budget though.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 3 1200 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor | €104.64
Motherboard | MSI - B350M GAMING PRO Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | €84.00
Storage | Crucial - MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | €90.00
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | €45.00
Video Card | MSI - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING X Video Card | €271.00
Case | Corsair - 100R ATX Mid Tower Case | €54.00
Other | Corsair CP-9020097-UK VS550 ATX/EPS Vs Series 80 Plus Power Supply Unit | €46.00
Other | Crucial 8GB Single DDR4 2400 MT/s (PC4-192000) DIMM 288-Pin Memory - CT8G4DFD824A | €85.63
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | €780.27
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-12 13:00 GMT+0000 |
ALL of these are from Amazon UK, i just simply converted all prices from Pound to Euro. Build was £690 or 780 Euros Total.
RYZEN 1200 - https://www.amazon.co.uk/AMD-YD1200BBAEBOX-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B0741DN383/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510491545&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ryzen+1200
MOBO - https://www.amazon.co.uk/MSI-B350M-GAMING-PRO-Motherboard/dp/B06WXX7FR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510490987&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=MSI+-+B350M+GAMING+PRO
1TB HDD - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Blue-Desktop-Hard-Disk-Drive/dp/B0088PUEPK/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510491127&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=1tb+hdd&amp;dpID=51DmuZNyIGL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
275GB SSD-
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01IAGSD5O/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1
GTX 1060 6GB - https://www.amazon.co.uk/MSI-GTX-1060-GAMING-DisplayPort/dp/B01IEKYD5U/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510491432&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=gtx+1060+6gb
CASE - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CC-9011075-WW-Windowed-Mid-Tower-Computer/dp/B00RORBQNW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510491311&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=corsair+100r
PSU - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CP-9020097-UK-PLUS-Power-Supply/dp/B00TE4XSMA/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510491365&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=500w+psu
RAM - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-DDR4-2400-PC4-19200-288-Pin/dp/B019FRED60/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510491809&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=8gb+ddr4&amp;dpID=41TDZYwtkwL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IEKYD5U
I got this on Feb 1, direct from Amazon for $340.
Also this:
www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-GAMING-Support-06G-P4-6163-KR/dp/B01IPVSLTC/
What is the difference between these two cards?
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GTX-1060-6G/dp/B01IEKYD5U/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495720592&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=msi+gtx+1060
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Video-Graphic-Cards-G1060GX6SC/dp/B071Y1B51N/ref=sr_1_24?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495720592&amp;sr=1-24&amp;keywords=msi+gtx+1060
Yikes my dude. You did exactly what I told you not to do. Go back and reread my post. It says everything I would respond to this with.
But you say you pissed people off? I don't know that others are pissed, or at least I am not, I would say it's more of just like, "smh this guy doesn't want to listen to the truth." It's your gpu. Trust me. Or don't trust me, trust someone else in this thread. Not that guy who says to get VanillaFix tho, that doesn't fix the main problem.
I will say it one final time:
It. Is. Your. Lack. Of. Dedicated. GPU.
You do realize that vanilla minecraft uses openGL too, like it's not just mods that use it.
If you want anecdotal evidence then I will give you some. In a new world, max settings(with render distance 16), on minecraft version 1.12, pure vanilla, I get around 150-200fps depending on how fast I fly through the world loading chunks, but if I stand still I get from 200-500fps. Those are the numbers that you should be looking for from vanilla if you want to get runnable ftb packs with large amounts of mods
Now on enigmatica 2, I have to download that, because I still haven't gotten around to doing that for playing it in the first place lol
but before even getting the results from that I can again tell you that it is your gpu. I have a worse and older cpu, but I have an actual dedicated gpu
If you're responding, use something about java code, java optimization, java garbage collection, opengl rendering systems, or another graphics library that you think minecraft uses in your response. If you include none of that I am assuming that either you didn't read all my post just now, or that you don't know enough about those topics to comment. If the later is the case, then you should trust the opinion of those who do know enough about those topics to comment. I happen to know enough about those topics to comment, so trust what I am saying, it's your gpu. Get one.
I've got three suggestions for you:
1080ti: https://www.amazon.com/Nvidia-GEFORCE-GTX-1080-Ti/dp/B06XH5ZCLP
1060 6gb: https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GTX-1060-6G/dp/B01IEKYD5U
and the 1050ti 4gb dual fan: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-02G-P4-6150-KR/dp/B01M5BQRIO?th=1
three difference price ranges. 230, 330, and 1200
If you want my real opinion, get this one: https://www.amazon.com/ZOTAC-GeForce-256-bit-Graphics-Backplate/dp/B07GG9L5X1
it's comparable to the 1080ti. Or if you want something a little cheaper but better than the 1060 get a 1070
At the moment the RX580 is price hiked due to the boom in etherum, I would go for this instead: https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GTX-1060-6G/dp/B01IEKYD5U
That Samsung 840 Pro is an older part, and not showing up as in stock. The 850 EVO is an easy choice, if it's still in budget.
Unless you already have that 840 in your alienware and are carrying it forward to your new build...
Instead of that 1060 ARMOR card, maybe the Gaming X, since it's $210 after rebate. Think it has a backplate and bit better cooling.A 1060 is $300 US on its own. It would be tough to build the rest of the PC for just another 200.
Either way a 1060 can run Bioshock Infinite - a now old and quite amazingly optimized game at 4K 40FPS. That's not exactly ideal for a PC player, but sure that kind of works. Still, Bioshock is a fairly old game. I believe the point here is to discuss more recent/modern games. It could not handle AC: Origins at 4K or something like the new Tomb Raider.
It still seems to me that making the claim that you can build a $500 PC that can run 4K is a bit of an overstatement. It's possible, but it comes with a lot of caveats and downgrades. It is still much better to purchase a One X if you want 4K gaming or even a PS4 Pro. It'll be upscaled 4K, but still.
I bought this one, and I can confirm that you should, most definetely, get an RX 480.
You did a good job. That will work. If you can afford it, add a low capacity SSD to install your OS on, and put everything else on that 1TB HDD. If there's anything I could change, I find MSI to be among the most reputable for most hardware, especially GPU. MSI 1060. That being said, the PNY has solid reviews. The thing to worry about here is longevity. I don't have bad experiences with PNY products, but own few.
I am also wary of ASRock products, particularly mobos. They have been hit and miss from what I have seen, but honestly there is nothing notable I can reference it's not a particularly bad choice. This will be a great build for what you need. Good work.
That is an excellent choice, you can get [this] (https://m.newegg.com/product/index?itemnumber=N82E16814127963) for 25$ more if you are willing to spend, it has higher clock speeds, a little better cooling and better looks.
Edit: it also has backplate to protect it from accidental screw drops or something, and i found [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IEKYD5U/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487777321&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=gtx%2B1060&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51ATILxFwwL&amp;ref=plSrch&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1) from amazon, it is exactly the same as the one i sent but is 25$ cheaper (same price as the less powerful version you found).
You could use This 1060 for your case as it is small enough
What is your PSU and motherboard? because most should have the PCI-E cable for the card and most motherboard's should have the slot for a graphics card
I was looking at the EVGA GTX 1060 6GB link and it seems like it would be a good upgrade
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-06G-P4-6161-KR/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=sr_1_14?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487689217&amp;sr=1-14&amp;keywords=rx+480+8gb
Personally, I have had some problems with temperatures. I just posted a question about it here, so I don't know anything yet. I'm getting around 85 degrees under load, with the fan at 100%, but even then, the noise levels haven't bothered me all that much.
The website where I bought mine is Danish, and can be found here. I'm pretty sure this is the same one though.
1060 6GB card and it fits the budget. EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 GAMING, ACX 2.0 (Single Fan), 6GB GDDR5, DX12 OSD Support (PXOC), Only 6.8 Inches Graphics Card 06G-P4-6161-KR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_voynzbZ72Q9QT
Oh sorry I meant to write a laptop not a pc(if your interested the power supply, motherboard). I'm gonna install the os with a USB(a friend said he got an extra 1 with a deal or something)
Also will this do? EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 GAMING, ACX 2.0 (Single Fan), 6GB GDDR5, DX12 OSD Support (PXOC), Only 6.8 Inches Graphics Card 06G-P4-6161-KR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IVMmzbXPGC5H6
If prices are still high, you could sell the 290, snag a 1060 (check /r/buildapcsales they go for ~$250-280 recently) and hold out till Vega. I'm waiting on Vega.
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IPVSGEC/
You could resell this in a month or so for basically what you paid for it when Vega is out.
I've been holding out for a good deal on an RX 480 8 GB or GTX 1060 6GB, is this or this the lowest or close to the lowest I will be able to find either of them? I'm considering holding out until Friday for a better deal then jumping on one of these if one doesn't come up.
Edit: I just found this deal but I've never used Mike's Computer Shop. Seems like a good deal, is Mike's a good place to buy from?
I'm convincing myself that I need a new GPU, and it was looking at this one:
www.amazon.com/dp/B01IPVSGEC
My rig is currently what is in my flair (i5-3470, 750Ti, 8GB), my MoBo is an Intel DB75EN, PSU is 600W.
Will that 1060 work? Is there anything I should be aware of, something I should get or upgrade first before purchasing a new GPU? I'm only interested in 1080p gaming, no VR and no 4k.
You've inflated those prices by a hell of a lot: 1060 , 1070 , and the 580 . I'll agree that the 480 prices are incredibly high atm.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IPVSGEC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496612953&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=1060&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51pKcy00N-L&amp;ref=plSrch is this version of the 1060 6g fine?
One could argue that your GPU is a little overboard for the monitor, as a 1070 should do pretty good at 1080p, even at 144hz, but if a 1080 is in the budget, then that's what you should get. I would however, avoid the "Founders edition" card in favor of a partner board with better cooling. That price is also not great. Check out this one, or this one and save yourself a little money and get a better card in the process.
A GTX 1080 would be a great choice.
Since the price between the 1070's and 1080's on amazon are so close right now, I would have to recommend this 1080.
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Windforce-GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD-Graphics/dp/B01IR6LMLO/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500755145&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=gtx+1080
why???
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Windforce-GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD-Graphics/dp/B01IR6LMLO/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500378173&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=GTX+1080
A strix will not outperform any 1080
An 8600k is a great choice and it'd save you $110 so you could upgrade to a 1070ti (link) or 1080 (link) to get better gaming performance.
The k chips don't come with stock coolers anymore, and the stock coolers wouldn't be adequate anyway. Since you don't plan to OC, a Cryorig H7 (link) would fit the bill too keep it cool and quiet while still fitting in the same budget.
Wow that is a pretty good deal. Ive been looking at the Gigabyte card as it does look a bit cheaper. Amazon has the windforce for $676 (https://www.amazon.ca/Gigabyte-GeForce-Windforce-GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD-Graphics/dp/B01IR6LMLO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501738353&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=gtx%2B1080&amp;th=1). Ive heard EVGA is a bit better, but im hearing the other way as well.
nah, you can get a brand new gigabyte gtx 1080 here for $500.
I wish the Nintendo Switch was out because I really want one.
As for things that are out, I would love to have either:
Divinity: Original Sin 2 which is $44.99
or some sort of GTX 1080 like this which is about $630.
A lot of people are going all out here, which I can't blame them as this opportunity really doesn't come along very often.
Would it be cool if I win if I could get an extra $1,000 donated to a charity? I'll have to do some research into which charity, but let's keep this love spreading.
that's interesting because my gigabyte 1080 is silent really even under load https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IR6LMLO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but it is a long card with three fans even though this card is only 10 mm shorter
My go to budget case is the Corsair 100R or its silent version. They're both really solid cases that stay relatively inespensive.
Use the savings to get this 1080: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IR6LMLO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502241363&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=Gtx+1080&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51bpp6rWCmL&amp;ref=plSrch
Keep an eye on /r/bapcsalescanada/. Most of the 800-850 models are usually blower/founders edition. Those usually run a bit hotter and loader than the other models (you can recognize them by their single fan), but a 1080ti is still a 1080ti.
There are also 1080 deals like this, and occasionally even hit 600 dollars.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01IR6LMLO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Was on sale for $660
What about these? http://hardwire.in/home/2054-gigabyte-gtx-1070
http://www.amazon.in/gp/aw/d/B01IR6LMLO/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502718461&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX118_SY170_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=gtx+1080&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51bpp6rWCmL&amp;ref=plSrch
If you wanted to check these out you could save some money on the video card. The monitor is half price but it’s a tn panel. I’ve used both but it’s up to you if you want to spend more for the ips. Sorry for the format I’m new to posting.
EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 SC GAMING ACX 3.0 Black Edition, 8GB GDDR5, LED, DX12 OSD Support (PXOC) 08G-P4-5173-KR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KVZBNY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Hst2AbTWY910Z
VIOTEK GN27D 27 Inch 1440p 144hz Curved Computer Gaming Monitor Samsung VA Panel Freesync FPS RTS Optimized https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078P57ZWL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Rut2AbYJA6CG1.
You can buy 1070;s on amazon for 515$ and 1080's for good deals as well and on NON Blower Cards just a FYI as amazon is cheaper than everywhere else.
https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-GeForce-GAMING-Support-08G-P4-5173-KR/dp/B01KVZBNY0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495908452&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=1070
Do you have a discreet gpu and usb 3.0 or are you using integrated graphics?
Edit: assuming you have discreet graphics, usb 3.0, a 4K display, and a console or computer capable of playing in 4K that you might want to capture or stream from as well as your switch you should buy a razed ripsaw:
Razer Ripsaw HD Game Streaming Capture Card: 4K Passthrough - 1080p FHD 60 FPS Recording - Compatible w/PC, PS4, Xbox One, Nintendo Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q2X651Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QUnkDbG0629S9
If you have discreet graphics, usb 3.0, and no interest in 4K you should buy an elgato hd60s:
Elgato Game Capture Card HD60 S - Stream and Record in 1080p60, for PlayStation 4, Xbox One & Xbox 360 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DRWCOGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1VnkDb6HYYGR8
If you are using integrated graphics or don’t have usb 3.0 you should buy an elgato hd60:
Elgato Game Capture HD60 - Next Generation Gameplay Sharing for Playstation 4, Xbox One & Xbox 360, 1080p Quality with 60 fps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MIQ40JQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aXnkDb9S5TY8V
Also be careful streaming or capturing any Nintendo games to post online. They’ve lightened up quite a bit on their copyright striking since the beginning of the year but they are still the most strictly enforced games online. I got a strike on my older YouTube channel for having Mario Kart 8 capture in the background of an episode of my podcast.
Try this link. You may have to click an extra button to unlock the deal. For me, it shows when I click on "Details" next to the Prime Day Deal badge: https://www.amazon.ca/Elgato-Game-Capture-HD60-technology/dp/B01DRWCOGA/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=elgato&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;qid=1563198657&amp;s=prime-day&amp;sr=1-2
You can also select "Prime Day" as a category when searching departments. Select that, and just search for "elgato".
The HD60 S does not have a built in hardware encoder, so it would still require your CPU or GPU to process the video just as if you weren't using the HD60 S at all. The HD60 and HD60 Pro both have built in encoders, and can therefore lighten the load on your system. There's a comparison chart for Elgato's capture cards about halfway down the page here on Amazon that shows each device's capabilities.
Now... All that being said, it's typically said that you do NOT want to use the H.264 encoder built into the capture card as its capabilities are limited compared to what your CPU/GPU are able to do in most cases. In practice, building a second system is really the only way to lighten the load on your gaming system without sacrificing quality.
A PS4 Pro will record at 1080p, the regular one maxes out at 720p.
The Elgato HD60S is pretty much the standard as far as I know. For 1080p 60fps capture you're likely to spend over $100 no matter what card you get.
wtf usb i found one https://www.amazon.ca/Elgato-Game-Capture-HD60-technology/dp/B01DRWCOGA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523850372&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=capture+card
You could use the elgato hd60 s. It has instant view so you can record and play on your computer. https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Game-Capture-HD60-technology/dp/B01DRWCOGA
I can't make the build you need for under 500.
Capture card
https://www.amazon.com/AVerMedia-Extreme-Streaming-Pass-Through-GC551/dp/B07DD3XKLG this one comes with cyberlink powerdirector license which is nice.
https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Game-Capture-HD60-PlayStation/dp/B01DRWCOGA
x264 to encode for stream and possibly quicksync to record locally for later edits.
You will need more storage(a 2tb HDD would be nice) https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16822184773?Item=N82E16822184773&amp;Tpk=N82E16822184773
And you will probably need 1-2 HDMI cables.
PCPartPicker Part List
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-9400 2.9 GHz 6-Core Processor | $169.99 @ Best Buy
Motherboard | ASRock B365M-HDV Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $69.99 @ Amazon
Memory | OLOy 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $53.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Sabrent Rocket 512 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $59.98 @ Amazon
Case | Rosewill RANGER-M MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $34.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | SeaSonic 520 W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | $44.98 @ Newegg
Monitor | Acer R221Q bid 21.5" 1920x1080 60 Hz Monitor | $87.08 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $541.00
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $521.00
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-09-18 05:50 EDT-0400 |
Do you happen to have a microcenter nearby?We could take advantage of some ryzen deals.
Want something basic? Just get a cheap Snowball and any Logitech HD webcam.
Next level? Get something like the Blue Yeti, Sony Alpha a6000, and Elgato HDMI capture adapter.
You'll need a capture card like the elgato HD60s: https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Game-Capture-HD60-PlayStation/dp/B01DRWCOGA
You'll connect that to your PC over a USB 3.0 port like this:
Switch -> HDMI -> HD60s Input -> HD60s USB C output -> PC USB3.0 Input.
That will get the video feed from your console to your PC. After you have that working you'll want to connect an additional HDMI cable to the output of the HD60s and hook it up to a monitor to play the game on.
It requires another piece of hardware. I use an Elgato HD 60. It works well.
https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Game-Capture-HD60-technology/dp/B01DRWCOGA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495296107&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=elgato+hd60
> So far the built in in home streaming seems lack luster. Just trying to figure out what I might be looking at for an acceptable capture device.
If you have a console your best bet would be to hook it up to your TV and play directly connected to that. If you don't want to do that for whatever reason a halfway decent capture card will be close to $200 and not really guaranteed to work (like a TV would be.)
For a PC - you want something with a strong CPU, moderately ok GPU (we have a 970 in ours and that works fine). More importantly, you will need a capture card to capture the PS4's video. If you don't want to suffer any video / audio delay, you'll need either an internal card or an external with 3.0 USB. Decent cards with those specifications generally start at $200. Maybe $150 on sale.
From my experience, most people who with internal use the Elgato HD 60 Pro. For external, the Elgato HD60 S. They are simple to use without much setup.
Probably, I'm not that familiar with capture cards. You might want to read through the reviews and Q&A on the Amazon pages for it and other cards.
&#x200B;
I think the Elgato HD 60 S is currently the most popular capture card...
https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Game-Capture-HD60-PlayStation/dp/B01DRWCOGA
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Keep in mind that card doesn’t have pass through so you won’t be able to view the game you are playing in your tv anymore so it will have to be through the laptop which can have latency. I would look at something like the Elgato HD60s here https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01DRWCOGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_SrhACbDEV3K9B
It costs more but pass through is a must.
As for a recommended laptop, you will definitely want a quad core or greater cpu and a graphics card. The recommended specs are on the page.
Yeah the HD60S or the HD60 Pro if you wanna put it in your PC. Or if you really wanna get fancy you can go with the 4K60 Pro for the 4K quality goodness!!
HD60S: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DRWCOGA/ref=emc_b_5_t
HD60 Pro: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014MQIVPS/ref=emc_b_5_t
4K60 Pro: https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Game-Capture-4K60-Pro/dp/B076ZQBN6R
Although it does say that the regular HD60 can capture in 1080p60 as well. I have the HD60 Pro in my PC and have a PS4 Pro and it works fine
https://www.amazon.ca/Elgato-Game-Capture-HD60-technology/dp/B01DRWCOGA/ref=lp_8033981011_1_1?srs=8033981011&ie=UTF8&qid=1542961752&sr=8-1
&#x200B;
I know the post above has one at Best Buy for 10 bucks cheaper, but it's not available online. If you'd rather pay the 10 bucks to get it shipped to your house there ya go.
So two options:
I personally use it myself and it's the simplest version of "plug-and-play" I've ever seen. Never had any problems, amazing customer support and just general reputability. The price can be a bit steep so if you're trying to save a bit more:
https://www.amazon.com/AGPtEK-Capture-Video-Recorder-Support/dp/B01MYWBG1I/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543023009&amp;sr=1-9&amp;keywords=capture+card
It does it's job, is effective but some of the reviews maybe need your consideration.
Hope this helps and best of luck with your PS2 games (MGS3 is God-tier IMO)!
I have the PCIe Elgato.
https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Capture-PlayStation-gameplay-1080p/dp/B014MQIVPS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496326718&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=elgato%2Bhd&amp;th=1
or
https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Capture-PlayStation-gameplay-1080p/dp/B01DRWCOGA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496326718&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=elgato%2Bhd&amp;th=1
Or the razer ripsaw will work as well.
A lot of the newer capture cards have extremely low to virtually no latency.
Noooo.... Don't just ignore my build.
Listen,
first things first.
The 1700 is, in my opinion, a better value for performance than the 2700/X as it is $100 cheaper.
Second, the cooler may be adequate but if your spending 1000 or so on a PC your gonna need another solution as the 1700 and 2700 tend to get hot and why not go for liquid cooling for only 50 bucks right.
And now for the ram... Alright, alright, maybe a little overkill but you still need at least 32gb for streaming TRUST ME. The background processing will thank me later.
Here is an updated parts list. I will explain my changes in another comment below. I truly believe this is your best bet. I do want to say if you're not really committed to going with the last generation like 1700 i get it. I will put another list including a b450 Moab and a ryzen 7 2700 after this one.
Also, here is the link to a capture card. LINK
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 7 1700X 3.4GHz 8-Core Processor | $189.89 @ OutletPC
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master - MasterLiquid Lite 240 66.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $54.99 @ Newegg
Thermal Compound | ARCTIC - MX4 4g Thermal Paste | $3.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock - Fatal1ty AB350 Gaming K4 ATX AM4 Motherboard | $90.88 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $275.98 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital - Blue 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $84.82 @ OutletPC
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $58.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | NVIDIA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Founders Edition Video Card | Purchased For $699.00
Case | NZXT - H500 (Black/Blue) ATX Mid Tower Case | $76.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $74.20 @ Amazon
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus - PCE-AC51 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $29.99 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Cougar - CF-D12HB-B 64.4 CFM 120mm Fan | $15.38 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Cougar - CF-D12HB-B 64.4 CFM 120mm Fan | $15.38 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1670.38
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-10-31 18:51 EDT-0400 |
Don't plan on it. Unless you specifically have hardware meant for it, you most likely don't have something that can get an input directly. i.e., TVs are meant for input, so they'll work. Laptops and desktops are built to be their own thing, so won't support display input. If your computer/laptop supports display input you've either put the hardware for it in yourself or you'll see it as a major selling point.
If you want to use a laptop display for your Switch, your best bet is likely a capture device e.g., Elgato 60 s
https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Game-Capture-HD60-PlayStation/dp/B01DRWCOGA
Elgato Game Capture HD60 S if its in your budget. It can stream in 1080p at 60FPS and its USB 3.0 so the delay is nearly nonexistent. If you're looking for something a little cheaper Elgato Game Capture HD. However there will be a slight delay from what you see on TV and your computer.
Costly video capture with low latency inputs like the below Elgato HD60 S unit should do it, provided you use their software.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Elgato-Game-Capture-HD60-PlayStation/dp/B01DRWCOGA/
But for that money you could just buy a monitor.
Yes, you can use the Elgato Game Capture HD60 S ([$149.95 at Amazon, as of this post] (https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Game-Capture-HD60-technology/dp/B01DRWCOGA//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=battleforthew-20)) to stream to Twitch.tv, YouTube, Ustream, Restream.io, Facebook and RTMP, but the [setup process] (https://help.elgato.com/customer/portal/articles/1020242-live-streaming-and-elgato-game-capture-hd) is fairly complicated.
this one
Best device for the job:
I use the HD60, but the HD60S is so much better for only like $5 more.
In case you didn't know, you can record high quality footage using capture cards, but it'll cost you. Here's a good one. There are cheaper ones out there but the decent ones start at around $100.
Well I’ll have to see if I can find anything, but if that price is close to what you paid, I paid a quarter that price for this on prime day this year. Handles the whole thing. Including hdcp.
You will need one of the following items:
Elgato HD60 Pro (installs into a PCI slot on your motherboard) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014MQIVPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4N0PDbVVFBAJ9
Elgato Game Capture Card HD60 S - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DRWCOGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JP0PDb2P0NCJ3
I personally have a Elgato HD60 Pro and I love it. Works great for recording my consoles.
Either of these options will do. Good luck 👍🏻
ah shit we thinking about the same thing! A sort of lame way of doing it would be to to align the capture feed window on the main screen then capturing and converting to grey scale etc within specified region of main screen.
Have you been working on this further? what pitfalls have you encountered? right now I'm looking at https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Game-Capture-HD60-PlayStation/dp/B01DRWCOGA/ref=asc_df_B01DRWCOGA/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309776868400&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12556503668729448460&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9020758&hvtargid=pla-362861600548&psc=1
Most of us use Elgato Game Capture products like the HD 60S, HD 60, or HD 60 Pro, along with OBS Studio and a slew of other software and gear.
https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Game-Capture-HD60-PlayStation/dp/B01DRWCOGA/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1T884NE6ZWPUY&amp;keywords=elgato+60+hd&amp;qid=1574597287&amp;sprefix=crash+team%2Caps%2C136&amp;sr=8-3
With a production system like OBS (or something like TriCaster/Blackmagic/etc on the higher end side) you take in multiple sources. I've done the OBS+YouTube Live thing to backup our normal guy when he's out by using a couple of 1080p webcams and loose PTZ IP surveillance cameras I had sitting around. It can take almost any source so it's pretty flexible.
You could even use your existing Canon R20 in the system with a capture device (something like this on the low end).
True production switchers/equipment get pricey fast so it depends on your needs and budget. Hopefully you don't get stuck being the guy who has to stream all the board meetings!
https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Game-Capture-HD60-PlayStation/dp/B01DRWCOGA/ref=gp_aw_ybh_a_6?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=1J81H8Z3Y6NB6J8RYYN0
Not too familiar with this but just throwing this out there...can you use a capture card? For example:
https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Capture-PlayStation-gameplay-1080p/dp/B00MIQ40JQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480529210&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=hd+capture+card
EDIT: or one with "Instant Gameview"
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DRWCOGA?ref=emc_b_5_t
Yeah I agree, I wouldn't use it via hub. Looks like the laptop has three USB 3 ports so use one of those directly. I haven't tried the Magewell but I really like my Elgato HD60S (https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Game-Capture-HD60-S/dp/B01DRWCOGA) which will use the same configuration /u/lemurofdiablo describes.
I use the Elgato HD60 S.
A bit more expensive, but worth it in my eyes. No lag, no delay, and very reliable. Though only if you're streaming from consoles that support HDMI. Old school consoles won't work for this, though I haven't tried a converter yet.
You can use a capture card to pass the HDMI signal from the PS4 to the PC and TV. Elgato are commonly used with streamers.
For example: Elgato Game Capture HD60 S - Stream and Record in 1080p60, for PlayStation 4, Xbox One & Xbox 360 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01DRWCOGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_um8OCb12ZX35C
Personally, I would go with this one.
But also can you be more specific about what exactly it is you're trying to do?
+1 this.
You just need a hdmi splitter with an adapter to whatever the console uses it has nothing to do with the computer.
If you want to twitch/youtube your video then you need something like a Elgato Game Capture HD60 between the console and the computer.
Ok. If you’re ONLY going to be playing games on a console and using the PC to stream the console games, then thats all you’ll need is a capture card and decent internet.
Heres a 1080p60 capture card that will enable you to record and stream: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01DRWCOGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OF06AbE9SDNXN
Nope. I've wanted to use my Surface as a portable monitor as well and so far it's not possible. There's simply no video-in functionality.
EDIT: I should say I technically got it working by using a video capture device - specifically the Elgato Game Capture HD60 S. You can use the capture software to simply display the footage full screen without actually recording anything. This solution might be best for the RT because if you're not recording anything there's very minimal system resource utilization. I ended up returning it because of the crazy price tag ($175!!) and now just pack around a super thin 20.5" monitor in my backpack along with my PS3 or PS4 and Vita.
Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DRWCOGA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523664474&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=elgato+hd60s
Finally a question I can actually answer. For just normal Red/Yellow/White A/V cables I use this setup.
Option 1
Is there any reason you want HDMI? You can keep steps 1 and 2 from above and use something like this instead.
I can also answer any question you have.
Im using the elgato game capture hd60 s which would work for the HDMI option. Its worked well for me so far and I got this one because I can use it with my SNESbclassic, Xbox and switch.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DRWCOGA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521156122&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=elgato&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=315gjbr48GL&amp;ref=plSrch
I've considered Elgato, but there are many options. The normal Elgato HD60 would be a standard, since it captures 60FPS, but then there's more options, like the Elgato HD60 S, and the Elgato HD60 Pro. I'm not sure which option to choose, as I want to get the most out of my money, but also want a card that isn't complicated to set up, or will fail on me.
https://smile.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GeForce-GTX-1060/dp/B01IEKYD5U/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473266989&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=msi+gtx+1060
Thanks again for the help but the price is higher than you quoted:
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GeForce-GTX-1070/dp/B01GXOX3SW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468958303&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=gtx+1060
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GeForce-GTX-1060-GAMING/dp/B01IEKYD5U/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468958334&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=gtx+1060+6g
The 6Gig version isn't out until August 18th at least, on Amazon.
Found a listing on amazon. $350 with one month wait until ship date
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GeForce-GTX-1060-GAMING/dp/B01IEKYD5U/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468933044&amp;sr=8-10&amp;keywords=geforce+1060
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GTX-1060-6G/dp/B01IEKYD5U/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511646485&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=gtx+1060+msi any cards that have gaming in them they just mark up the price never buy a card with the words gaming in it. but if you can shell out for a 1070. i bought mine 4 months back no problems.
Is this what you're referring to? https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GTX-1060-6G/dp/B01IEKYD5U
Appreciate the response.
Also, this being my first gaming PC. Would I run both GPU's together or just the new one?
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GTX-1060-6G/dp/B01IEKYD5U
Honestly I thought everyone knew about this card
Would a GPU such as this one do the job? (Running Dishonored 2 at 60FPS 1080 on high settings or more)
https://www.amazon.ca/MSI-GAMING-GTX-1060-6G/dp/B01IEKYD5U/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510106874&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=GTX+1060
Also, is there a risk of my cpu bottlenecking it?
Same! Trying to find an MSI GTX 1060 6GB hahaha.
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GTX-1060-6G/dp/B01IEKYD5U
Hello r/buildapc friends again, I've successfully upgraded my PC thanks to you guys and I just need one more piece of advice. My wife's PC has a GTX 960 2GB and it's time to upgrade her. this is what I have and I'm curious an alternative if Raedon has a similar card at a much cheaper price? I don't mind dropping the $400 but I'd I don't have to what would be better?
Ok so the CPU is still good?
I'll explain fully for you incase you arent following. I want to either upgrade or buy her a new computer, I want her to be able to play games fairly well and not have problems with performance or games like WoW, Arma, GTA V etc.
Like I said im fairly amateur at all of this so sorry if im making it difficult to follow.
Edit: She also runs 2 monitors at 1920x1080 Asus HDMI
Edit2 : So I found these parts, would these be sufficient?
GPUS:
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GeForce-GTX-1060/dp/B01IEKYD5U/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473727662&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=gtx+1060
Or (I dont know what the difference in these 2 would be?)
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-06G-P4-6161-KR/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473727662&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=gtx+1060
SSD:
https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-Digital-SSDNow-SUV400S37-240G/dp/B01FJ4UL2S/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473727776&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=SSD+240
Ram:
https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-HyperX-FURY-2x4GB-1600MHz/dp/B00J8E93G6/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473727856&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=8GB+of+DDR3
Cooling fan:
https://www.amazon.com/Hyper-TX3-Cooler-Direct-Contact/dp/B005HIRDUA/ref=sr_1_11?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473727966&amp;sr=1-11&amp;keywords=CPU+cooler
Just a note that the 1080 was released almost two years ago, they're not going to wait another year, especially with competition from AMD and miners slowing down their purchasing. I'd give it until July or so before buying a 1000 series card. You'll kick yourself if you buy a 1080 and the 2080 comes out at the same price point (or less!) with 20-30% more performance.
>and letting my Vive dust away
A 960 can pretty much play 90% of VR games. No, you won't get oversampling and other perks, but if you think that'll make VR games somehow more compelling for you, well, you might be in for an expensive surprise.
If you're itching for a transitional card to a 2080 due to the 960 being slow, the 1060 pricing is still good:
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GTX-1060-6G/dp/B01IEKYD5U
1060 avg g3d: 8920
960 avg g3d: 5805
Pretty big 65% upgrade here.
970 avg g3d: 8585
But its only about 5% faster than a 970. A used 970 would also make a nice transitional card assuming prices aren't insane in your local market.
[i5 7600K same price] (https://www.amazon.com/Intel-BX80677I57600K-Core-Desktop-Processors/dp/B01MRRPPQS/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485552725&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=i5+7600k)
[Z270] (https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-TUF-Z270-LGA1151-Motherboard/dp/B01MQTDBOO/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485552772&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=z270)
[Z270] (https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-TUF-Z270-LGA1151-Motherboard/dp/B01MQTDBOO/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485552772&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=z270)
Plus more Z270s even cheaper on amazon and newegg
Also please don't pay that much for a 960.. [1060 here] (https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GTX-1060-6G/dp/B01IEKYD5U/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485552876&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=1060) or get an RX 480 for the same price, in fact even cheaper.
Also that PSU is expensive, get [this EVGA 600W semi-modular] (https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Warranty-Tester-100-B1-0600-KR/dp/B00EON40CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485552945&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=600w+evga)
This is the model: https://www.amazon.ca/MSI-GTX-1060-GAMING-6G/dp/B01IEKYD5U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495656516&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=msi+gtx+1060
I'm looking to upgrade my GPU from a MSI GTX 760 to a MSI GTX 1060, is there any problems I'm going to run into upgrading this? How can I find if they will be compatible with my build?
My basis for upgrading is that I am looking to get a 144hz monitor and I know that my 760 wouldn't be able to produce that many frames. Any other things I should be looking at when looking to upgrade?
GPU I'm looking at
Monitor I'm looking at
Do you have a specific model in mind to recommend? Amazon seems to recommend this one, https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GTX-1060-6G/dp/B01IEKYD5U/
I would lean towards the MSI version.
However there are like 6 different MSI versions. The best one is, in my opinion the MSI gaming 6gb. Games these days tend to use more then 3gb of VRAM (that means the memeory on the graphics carf), so I would recommend the 6gb version instead of the 3gb one. That would be this one - https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GTX-1060-6G/dp/B01IEKYD5U
Oh yeah, I dont know if the link is good. As a eastern european we dont use amazon here. Just wanted to show you the card im talking about.
Dumb question incoming- my bf bought us new video cards but we have dell pre built pcs. He's trying to install the new card on his but it's not going to fit. Can we just buy a new case and take everything out of the old one and stick it in the new one?
This is what we currently have and we got these video cards.
Would this tower work to switch everything over to? Hope this makes sense lol.
2 things: 1 big, 1 small.
Big Thing:
That GTX 760 you are buying is VERY outdated (4+ years old). You want to get something like a GTX 1060 or an RX 480 instead.
Small Thing: The cooler you bought comes with thermal paste applied already, so you don't really need to buy more.
It is precisely this one.
I researched and see that the GTX 1060 is good enough for VR.
I have a i7-4770k with 16 GB Ram.
I also read that MSI made a quieter fan than others.
My question is, there are so many types of MSI GTX 1060, which one should I get?
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GTX-1060-6G/dp/B01IEKYD5U
GTX 1060 6G OCV1
GTX 1060 6GT OCV1
GTX 1060 AERO ITX 6G OC
GTX 1060 ARMOR 6G OCV1
GTX 1060 GAMING 6G
GTX 1060 GAMING X 6G
GTX 1060 GAMING X+ 6G
The GeForce GTX 1060 6GB GDDR5 is about $270.
What I Am Mainly Doing On This PC Is Gaming And Editing....I Found Another Card And Monitor....https://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-VX2452MH-1080p-Gaming-Monitor/dp/B00EZSUVHK/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497125175&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr0&amp;keywords=viewsonic+va245sm+24 ... https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GTX-1060-6G/dp/B01IEKYD5U/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497125227&amp;sr=8-1-spell&amp;keywords=msi+gaming+geofrce+gtx+1060 Tell Me Your Feedback
I'm picking out parts for my first pc build and I plan on going with a gtx 1060 6gb due to the ludicrous prices of the rx 580s. I found an MSI Gaming X on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IEKYD5U/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1 The rebate seems too good to be true. Should I get it? Any second opinions?
Which is more recommended, the one of closed fan, that fits without modifying anything, or the one of 2 fans, uncovered, but it has to remove the front fan, is for an X51 R1 and why?
https://www.amazon.com/Geforce-Turbo-Auto-Extreme-Graphics-TURBO-GTX1060-6G/dp/B01K1JTCZS/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498834618&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=gtx+1060
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GTX-1060-6G/dp/B01IEKYD5U/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498834618&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=gtx+1060
In all honesty would the extra 20 bucks over the 580 for this card be worth it?
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GTX-1060-6G/dp/B01IEKYD5U/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=1060ti&qid=1550008720&s=electronics&sr=1-2&th=1
&#x200B;
i currently run a 1070ti( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076Q62TDF/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A2863QO7PSKX1N&psc=1 )
in my main rig and i thoroughly enjoy it but this is for my wife's computer and don't really want to drop over 300 on a graphics card and it cant be to big due to it having to fit inside a nzxt h200 case (mini itx form)
Definitely need to upgrade your GPU. The GTX 1060 seems like a good deal at the moment. It's going for around 280 on Amazon currently.
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GTX-1060-6G/dp/B01IEKYD5U/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501195390&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=geforce+gtx+1060
Denied as a suspected pricing error...
"Unfortunately we are unable to process the order with the provided price beat as it has been reported to be a pricing error until further notice. We would be more than happy to price beat via Amazon (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IEKYD5U/ref=asc_df_B06X3TZG5K1537354800000/?tag=shopbotca-20&amp;creative=395285&amp;creativeASIN=B06X3TZG5K&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;th=1 ) at $429.99 if that would work for you."
I should have mention that this is my "guest" PC for when my brother and sister visit so no huge deal if they lag a little. :P
Which 1060 6GB would be ideal? This one seems like a good choice on Amazon.
I'm trying to decide between these three video cards.
These are ones that I'm most likely to buy but would like to get another input as to which would be best to get? Thanks in advance!
Hi:
I'm currently in the market for a new gaming graphics card and am just getting overwhelmed. I am looking at an MSI GeForce GTX 6GB 1060. Job done right? Well look at this horrorshow.
Can somebody help me understand which of these are the best bang for the buck? (Followup question: why do they have so many %&#* options! Seems way over the top). I am leaning toward this one at the moment.
Currently running an i5-4460 @3.2ghz with 8gb ram and an MSI GeForce GTX 950 2GB card onto a 2560x1080 ultrawide monitor. Purchased titanfall 2 and even on lowest settings it's borderline unplayable with framerate drops. I really don't play video games enough to justify more than around $250 on a card. Is this MSI GeForce GTX 1060 6GB overkill? UNDERkill? What kind of performance could I see on titanfall 2 with it? (Seeing as how it's probably going to be the most resource demanding game I'll be playing for maybe half a year-ish? I don't get super into games that often but I'm all about the titanfall series)
Should I buy the MSI GTX 1060 while it is on a small sale, or wait for the bigger discount on BF\CM ?
If you are buying from Amazon I highly recommend any one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-06G-P4-6163-KR/dp/B01IPVSLTC/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478481195&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=1060+6GB
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GTX-1060-6G/dp/B01IEKYD5U/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478481195&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=1060+6GB
https://www.amazon.com/GeForce-Dual-Fan-Gaming-Graphics-DUAL-GTX1060-O6G/dp/B01JHQT1SE/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478481195&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=1060+6GB
All will perform about the same and work well with your build. :)
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IEKYD5U/?tag=pcp0f-20
Is this a good deal for an msi gaming x 1060 6gb?
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GTX-1060-6G/dp/B01IEKYD5U/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502139702&amp;sr=1-5
It's been a great card so far!
Ok great! Thanks for the info.
And yeah Canada does have really dumb prices for pretty much everything, especially, it seems, PC parts.
Now, for a Graphics card, would a 1060 be something that would work with this build for CS:GO? I currently have a 970, so would a 1060 be an upgrade that would get me the FPS I need? If so I think this would solve my budget problem, and I could always upgrade to a 1070/1080 later.
Hey man, i found this, and i can get one for $400 which is totally within my price range.
MSI GAMING GeForce GTX 1060 6GB GDDR5 DirectX 12 VR Ready (GeForce GTX 1060 GAMING X 6G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IEKYD5U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_N-QNAbYE0M5SR
It says it's sli 2-way, is that what you were talking about?
I don't really plan on building, but here's the graphics card I would add:
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GTX-1060-6G/dp/B01IEKYD5U
I could do 3g instead of 6g though.
What is the difference between these two MSi GTX 1060 6GB cards?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IEKYD5U/?tag=pcpapi-20&amp;th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L9VB642/ref=twister_B01LAYSXYE?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
There is literally one left in stock on Amazon.
Buy it quickly!!
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GTX-1060-6G/dp/B01IEKYD5U
ASUS GeForce GTX 1060 3GB Dual-Fan OC Edition Graphics Card (DUAL-GTX1060-O3G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KMVHB6M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iK0Mzb8RP2W1H
MSI GAMING GeForce GTX 1060 6GB GDDR5 DirectX 12 VR Ready (GeForce GTX 1060 GAMING X 6G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IEKYD5U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0K0Mzb63W4W5N
EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 3GB GAMING, ACX 2.0 (Single Fan), 3GB GDDR5, DX12 OSD Support (PXOC) Graphics Cards 03G-P4-6160-KR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KUADE3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rL0Mzb9FEGMYY
There ya go my man. All under $400. These are about the cheapest I could find. Be aware that two of them are the 3GB variant and one is the 6GB
ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1060 AMP Edition, ZT-P10600B-10M, 6GB GDDR5 VR Ready Super Compact Gaming Graphics Card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I5O5AP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9M0Mzb509H44T
This one is a "mini" version. Not a big sexy beast but gets the job done all the same.
like https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Gv-N1060G1GAMING-6Gd-Graphics-GV-N1060G1GAM-6GD-R2/dp/B01N0P24HI/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503385381&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=1060+gaming+card or https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GTX-1060-6G/dp/B01IEKYD5U/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503385381&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=1060%2Bgaming%2Bcard&amp;th=1 ?
MSI is a good brand among of Asus, Gigabyte, Evga, Gainward and Palit considered as a reliable. For this, i'd recommend getting at least 6GB variant of GTX 1060, where you can benefit from the maximum performance of GTX 1060, else GTX 1050 Ti will be better option opposed to GTX 1060 3GB at a budget level.
If you're planning to get GTX 1060, I'd recommend this: MSI GAMING GeForce GTX 1060 6GB GDDR5 over GTX 1060 3GB.
Link: https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GTX-1060-6G/dp/B01IEKYD5U?th=1
One more question, i am really sorry. Suppose i choose this card: https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GTX-1060-6G/dp/B01IEKYD5U . Will it fit in this case?: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E0P7JFA
I am really sorry to bother you, i just cant find clear information on this case other than it having 3.5 inch drive bays
I would recommend the GTX 1060 Gaming X 6GB or the like.
Almost everyone, including myself will tell you that the 1060 6GB is one of the BEST price-to-performance cards you can get right now. I'm looking to upgrade to it soon from my current MSI Nvidia GeForce GTX 970.
Here and here are a couple in the first few results.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZYPEHK/
344.99 For Dual Fan
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IEKYD5U/
369.99 Dual Fan but bigger card
not very good prices but just a heads up for people who might wanna get other models from Amazon
But the price of old GPUs is still up relative to their suggested price... Take the 1060 for example, a much "outdated" and lower version, with a still comparatively high price relating to MSRP. Sure, the new ones will sell out to miners with a big pocket, but the small pocket miners looking to upgrade but can't afford a HUGE upgrade will still upgrade... As of the current/recent trend, older GPUs do NOT become obsolete.
No conozco casi nada del tema, compré la que me recomendaron varios conocidos gamers. Esta.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IEKYD5U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 Thats the GPU i have ordered so far. Reviews say fans on it are great. I play CS:GO on 1024x768 so FPS (i hope) shouldnt be to much of an issue. My real concern is it really worth 150$ extra for the 1070, when i don't play AAA games at Ultra currently.
Yeah I've been eying on the MSI card on the 1060. Is this the one you're talking about?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IEKYD5U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
So you would say that this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IEKYD5U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
is superior to this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L9VB642/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
which is in turn better than this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZYPEHK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
I'm looking at buying MSI cards, I really liked my last MSI laptop it lasted me forever...
Also...a lot of people are saying that 1070s are better than 1060s for the money. Is this true?
Anyone know if Amazon would honor the price of this MSI 1060 Gaming X when MSI inevitably denies the full rebate?
I asked two support reps and they both confirmed I would get the full $60 rebate but MSI's fine print states only 1 rebate per item is allowed. The funny thing is only 1 of those 3 rebates is actually for that card and it's only $15. Anyone have any experience with something like this? I don't wanna spend $270 and get screwed because for about $210 I think its a great deal
If you are planning to stick on the AMD side, get a Radeon RX 480
Now if you want a GTX card go with the 1060
Those will both allow 4K gaming while not making your CPU that much of a bottle neck.
Need a 4K monitor? I have this one and couldn't be happier with it!
I've never seen Dell give you a samsung 960evo or pm 961 off the bat. They use lower quality Toshiba or whatever they have in stock to save money. I dont blame them either, just a fact. I've also never seen them have seasonic, corsair, or evga psu's included. And a 1060 is about $350 in the u.s.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IEKYD5U/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525834159&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=gtx+1060&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51ATILxFwwL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IPVSLTC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525834159&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=gtx+1060&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51rdJo6WqmL&amp;ref=plSrch
You're surly never going to find one of those in a prebuilt from dell.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Q2zNcY
More than half the parts here are arguably higher quality than in most prebuilts like dell.
I originally said 1300 to 1500, this is in the price range. Also no reason to downvote me.
Thanks for the quick response :)
In the LI build they originally have an R5 1600x but the one I listed Amazon has on sale for just $20 more than the R5 so I figured no harm?
The other GPU listed in the build is gtx 1060 6gb but
with the sale on the 1070 ti today I figure if it fits with build just go for it? https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01IEKYD5U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&amp;psc=1
The monitor I am currently using is freesync (Asus 24" FHD 75Hz 1ms GTG LED FreeSync/Adaptive Sync Gaming Monitor (VG245H))
1080p @ 60 fps would be great but trying to get as high as I can I guess?
Alright, well suppose I was to up my budget a bit.
Which of these two should I go for?
EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB
Or
Sapphire Radeon NITRO+ RX 480 8GB
Edit: Just to add to that, I have a Seasonic s12ii 620 watt psu, so I believe both should work just fine
I want to order this.
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-06G-P4-6161-KR/dp/B01IPVSGEC
Does the warrenty hold in India?
There are also many varients.. Can you suggest one 6gb varient please if warrenty is not problem.
USA For me, but I think it's safe to assume the one highlighted in question you are referring to is this one correct?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=twister_B01JA2DCKS?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
By any chance would you know if this is drastically different?
https://www.amazon.com/Geforce-Turbo-Auto-Extreme-Graphics-TURBO-GTX1060-6G/dp/B01K1JTCZS/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;dd=fRsnLxReNzaOYn4J4iKHLQ%2C%2C&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483868596&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=1060+6gb&amp;refinements=p_96%3A10155283011
Sorry if i was confusing: i have this evga one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=twister_B01JA2DCKS?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
So i didnt have to modify anything for this card. And it plays BF4 like i described above. I do have the cd drive still in there
On saving money here, the obvious places that I would suggest is the CPU (if you don't plan to overclock, get an i5 8400 or wait for the i5 8500 / i5 8600 to come out).
That GPU is also insanely overpriced. https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-GAMING-Support-06G-P4-6161-KR/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519519944&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=gtx+1060&amp;dpID=51pKcy00N-L&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Although it's not in stock right now, it's far cheaper than the one in your list.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_vKGJAb6DDKE9W
Go now.
If you can't wait for it to come back in stock, which they usually do within 1-2 weeks, then maybe consider this version:
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-06G-P4-6161-KR/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=sr_1_8
You can OC yourself. That saves you a whopping $65, unless you want the LEDs on the Strix! :D
Oddly enough amazon is where I have seen a ton of gouging. On newegg the stock may be almost non existent but many of the cards are at least priced at MSRP. Perfect example is the EVGA 1060 SC... on amazon it is $329 https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-GAMING-Graphic-06G-P4-6161-KR/dp/B01IPVSGEC
Newegg it is $249 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487260
This is my current build
I’m looking to upgrade and my first thought is looking at the graphics card or the processor since I primarily use it for gaming and photo editing. My budget is $250-300 and looking on my own I was thinking about the GTX 1060 or the Intel i7 7700k but I wanted to get some input before making any purchases.
EVGA GTX 1060 6GB GAMING B-Stock
US$260 = C$332.38
EVGA GTX 1060 6GB GAMING single fan
C$329.99 - C$332.38 = C$-2.39
$2.39 more expensive on EVGA vs Amazon.ca. Saving a large chunk, indeed.
Try not to spend it all in one place.
Like this one: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-06G-P4-6161-KR/dp/B01IPVSGEC ?
Probably the GPU. I don't play on pc so I don't know how much the CPU bottlenecks but it'd be a safe bet to go with a GPU. Unfortunately, $250 isn't all that much to get a GPU, but for $260, you can get a single fan EVGA 1060 6GB.
Seriously though, upgrade your CPU when you get a chance. You're seven generations behind.
NEVER, and I mean NEVER, get a refrence card, Nvidia or Amd. Refrence cards have the shittiest coolers on the planet and will make your card thermal throttle if you don't keep the fan speed at 100% under load. If you can afford it, the evga 1060 is a great, compact card with good temps. The 1060 performs better than the rx 480 and if your gonna be gaming at 1080 and (most likely) not modding stuff like skyrim, 6gb of vram is all you need.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $176.27 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | Asus - STRIX B350-F GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard | $109.89 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $164.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Team - L5 LITE 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $34.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $43.85 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING Video Card | $299.99 @ Amazon
Case | Cougar - MX330-X ATX Mid Tower Case | $38.41 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA - BQ 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $39.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $908.38
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-04-11 14:54 EDT-0400 |
This is the card
Looks alright. Also on reddit its double enter to get a new line.
Graphics Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB
Processor: Intel i5 6500
Motherboard: Gigabyte LGA1151 Intel H110 Micro ATX DDR4
Power Supply: EVGA 500 W1, 80+ WHITE 500W Power Supply
RAM: Ballistix 8GB Single DDR4 288 Pin
Hard Disk Drive: WD Blue 1TB SATA 6Gb/s
Optical Drive: LG Super Multi Optical Drives
Case: Thermaltake H15 Micro ATX tower
Monitor: Dell VESA Mountable 23" LED
Mouse: Logitech MX ANYWHERE 2
Keyboard: Logitech Wireless Keyboard K360
Edit: Formating and Links for more information!
Status: UNRESOLVED
Computer Type: Desktop, custom built
GPU: GTX 1060, 6GB VRAM, no overclock
CPU: AMD FX(tm)-8320 Eight-Core Processor @ 3.50 GHz, no overclock
Motherboard: Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd. Model 970A-D3P, latest BIOS
RAM: 14.0 GB, DDR3, Dual-Channel @ 669MHz (9-9-9-24)
PSU: Unsure what brand/model, 700W
Operating System & Version: Windows 7 Ultimate SP1, clean install
GPU Drivers: 378.57, clean install
Description of Problem: I cannot turn on Instant Replay/record/broadcast using GeForce Experience. Everything seems like I should be able to, but when I click "Turn On", nothing happens. Literally. The box with the options Turn On and Customize goes away and the screen doesn't change. There's no error message or anything of the sort. No response from the system. The same thing occurs with the other three Share features.
Troubleshooting: I've ensured that I am using Windows Aero, have performed clean installs of BOTH NVidia drivers and GeForce Experience multiple times, have used DDU to clean the system of all NVidia registries and still nothing helped.
It should be noted that I have had this issue for awhile now, and have upgraded my GPU (used to be a 760), motherboard, and CPU cooler since first encountering it.
I specifically bought this new GPU so I could use the Share features because I thought my old GPU might've been faulty, and my CPU isn't strong enough to stream using OBS at a high enough fps for me to be comfortable with. Anyone have other suggestions for me to try?
Hi HellaPizza. I'm not a buildsmith, and you should wait for one of them to come around and take a look. Just some food for thought for now:
Since you'll be streaming and currently have a processor of only modest performance, our gains in the streaming department will be limited. Based on your budget, we're looking at a tradeoff between upgrading your processor and your GPU, or just upgrading your GPU. Your experience while playing and not streaming will improve significantly more if you upgrade the GPU alone. Depending on your streaming audience, you may be able to work around the CPU demands of streaming by doing something like using the QuickSync encoder of the iGPU to handle encoding to stream, but this is lower quality than CPU encoding. YMMV.
The best possible card within your budget is a GTX 1070. However, that's not necessary for you gaming at 1080p/60Hz. If a monitor upgrade is in your future, consider going for a 1070. Most of the Sub-$400 options are out of stock at the moment. If you can wait until June 22nd, this is a good deal - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HHCA1IO/
For gaming at 1080/60, you'll be fine with a GTX 1060 / 6GB model for this year's AAA games.
The best price on an in-stock GTX 1060 6GB card is this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IPVSGEC/
It will be hot and loud.
The best price on an in-stock normal-sized GTX 160 6GB card is this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZYPEHK/
You're generally looking at a 30-40% increase in FPS moving up to a 1070 from a 1060. See a comparison here. I can't find any good benchmarks for PUBG, but, if you trust this guy, this video indicates you'll be satisfied with a 1060 and performance is roughly as-expected. From my browsing, it doesn't look inordinately CPU heavy, so despite our weaker CPU performance we can probably skate by (we're not doing better within your budget, so it's a moot point).
If you want to get a few years out of it, well, no one can tell the future but maybe go for that 1070 so you can stagger your next upgrade (you're getting a new CPU, MOBO, and RAM next, ~$400-~500, a couple years down the line).
I don't recommend getting an ITX sized card or a blower-style card unless you absolutely have to for design reasons. They tend to be loud and hot. I don't believe saving a bit and saddling yourself with a hairdryer represents a good value but it's my job to present you with the best reasonable options. Maybe you don't care and you'd rather save $15.
If we wanted to upgrade your CPU as well, we'd put a 4790k in your current board to improve streaming performance, you'd have $60 left, and we'd be up the creek without a paddle. So, no-go there.
TL;DR: Don't mind waiting two weeks? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HHCA1IO/
In that case do you think this 1060 is worth waiting for to be back in stock (Jun.20): https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IPVSLTC/?tag=pcp0f-20 (I would purchase it now, before the price turns somehow)
or should I grab this one right away: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IPVSGEC/?tag=pcp0f-20
im sorry no TI
but its this 1
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-06G-P4-6161-KR/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=F8QH676Z3NAV84HAG67H
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-06G-P4-6161-KR/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497727999&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=EVGA+GeForce+GTX+1060
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-06G-P4-6161-KR/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498367390&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=1060
Would A Evga powerlink work on this Gpu?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_B7FozbB4CP8DW
Yes to both, but don't go anywhere near that Alienware. If you're set on one of these two, do your self a favor and get the HP.
But it's still not a great system for the price. I found basically the same system for $350 less on Amazon. With the money you save, you can buy a 6gb version of the GTX 1060 (the best buy system has a 3gig model), and still have $100 left in your pocket.
You can get this below. It's short and it's a 1060. Why did you need a blower type?
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-06G-P4-6161-KR/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496781549&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=nvidia+1060
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01IPVSGEC/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all
235 buck gtx 1060 6gb
or go to kjjij i have seen some great deals in my area and for most ads you can negociate the price. including this one
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-computer-components/ville-de-montreal/gtx-1060-gaming/1398358119?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
&#x200B;
&#x200B;
EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 GAMING, ACX 2.0 (Single Fan), 6GB GDDR5, DX12 OSD Support (PXOC) 06G-P4-6161-KR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RcK9Bb3TMK5GK
Cool, thanks for the info!
Last question, because i dont know too much about Nvidia, is this a good one to go with?
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eBd.Bb7ZSGB9W
I saw a few in this range, and most of the reviews look good on the few I've seen. (Also good for VR? I originally got my RX for the Oculus)
GTX 1060 with 6GB of VRAM will run the game near flawlessly.
In Canada at least, the price for a 1060 has gone up. I bought it for ~$330 in summer 2017and it's now $370
All are identical models: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=twister_B01JA2DCKS?_encoding=UTF8&amp;th=1
Should i go with this mb instead https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07F83RVTC/ref=crt_ewc_title_srh_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB
This 1060
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01JHQT1SE/ref=crt_ewc_title_huc_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB
or this 1060
https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-06G-P4-6161-KR/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=sr_1_1?dd=e9PzYrHZSKArJBlKMYh1DQ%2C%2C&amp;ddc_refnmnt=pfod&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537243050&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=1060+6gb&amp;refinements=p_97%3A14479221011
And this memory
https://www.amazon.ca/Ballistix-Single-PC4-21300-288-Pin-Memory/dp/B01MS79QSP/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537240957&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Ballistix+Sport+8GB+2666
How is the build compared to this prebuilt, I really cant decide to build it or just go with that
https://www.amazon.ca/CYBERPOWERPC-GXiVR8060A5-Desktop-i5-8400-GeForce/dp/B0757DVF4Z/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537241115&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=cyberpowerpc
Hey all!
This is my current PC: http://h20564.www2.hp.com/hpsc/doc/public/display?docId=emr_na-c03668430-9
Will this GPU be compatible?
https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-03G-P4-6160-KR/dp/B01IPVSGEC/?tag=logicaincre07-20&amp;th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_d3Hlzb02W92XB
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L9VB642/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_M6Hlzb9FAVZS1
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-06G-P4-6161-KR/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479764264&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=evga+1060+6gb
If 250 is your budget you can already pick up a pretty decent one. This is what I have.
> 1060 6gb
This one? https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-06G-P4-6161-KR/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503039158&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=1060+6gb
Only new card available in that price range in GTX 1060 3G or 6G. I would get some better priced listing like this and try get them to price match. Since you are buying multiple items they may be more willing to price match.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IPVSGEC/?tag=pcp0f-20
Also want to note (Although not technically relevant, but relevant for anybody looking for a small sized card) that EVGA's cards with the ACX 2.0 cooler are almost exactly the same size. (Not currently in stock, but I managed to pick up a 3GB variant for $202 about 3 weeks ago)
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-06G-P4-6161-KR/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501967131&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=acx+1060
Also, if the 3GB/6GB price gap is small FOR SURE go for the 6GB. $10-$30 price difference, go 6GB. I only went 3GB because at the time I needed a small card and couldn't source a 6GB variant for anything less than $50 more than the 3GB that I found and I only game at 1080p, probably won't step into 1440 for awhile, 4K either.
No.
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-06G-P4-6161-KR/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=7A3K438DDBV6QDGZDE6K
get a brand new 1060 that is only negligibly worse than the 980 for less.
http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-980-vs-Nvidia-GTX-1060-6GB/2576vs3639
Unless you are buying it to mine. I have no idea if one is better than the other for that (although I'm assuming the 980 is better due to the current price)
I'm not sure, heres the link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_UgAKzb5BSEGA5
I'm thinking this would be okay?
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Video Card |
EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 GAMING, ACX 2.0 (Single Fan), 6GB GDDR5| $259.99 @ AmazonEdit: Nevermind. It JUST jumped in price $318.99 and only one left in stock.
Edit2: using this instead
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING Video Card | $269.89 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $269.89
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-20 17:42 EDT-0400 |
Which one of these video cards would you suggest? I'm leaning towards this one because of the dual hdmi, but this one keeps popping up as the best in my price range. Is there even that big of a difference? Thank you for your input.
thanks for the reply! My video card is this one https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IPVSGEC/?tag=pcp0f-20
My full pc setup is this link https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/nhQp6X. Ill apreciate any info or advise u can give me
What is the big difference between low and high end 1060's?
What is the main difference between low end 1060 and a high end 1060?
I'm getting a GTX 1060, which one should I get?
Currently I have this picked out. I'm willing to go up to $300 if it's worth the money but don't want to overspend if the performance isn't a big change.
Thanks for the replies everyone. I'm keeping an open mind on the budget. The 1060 seems to be the popular suggestion here. I looked it up on Amazon and found this one:
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-06G-P4-6161-KR/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=zg_bs_284822_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=SW0GSGF8D42P2XZHHEW7
Will this one work well?
I currently have a 770 2GB GDDR5, and I was planning on upgrading to a single fan 1060 6GB. I basically came here just to make sure i wouldn't mess anything up.
1060 3gb this is the cheapest 3gb that shows on PCPP.
1060 6gb this is the cheapest 6gb that shows on PCPP.
I can’t speak for any other place that you’re finding cheaper cards. But if you can get a brand new 3gb for $180 then I would do that. Especially if you intend to upgrade gpu within the next couple years.
I am building a PC ( The Exterminator ) off of this page,
https://www.reddit.com/r/PCMasterRace/wiki/builds
And what I am doing is putting in a 1060 GTX in there, this one specifically,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IPVSGEC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And I'm wondering if I am gonna need 650 watt power supply, everything is coming tomorrow so i would love to know thanks!
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/offer-listing/B01IPVSGEC/ref=sr_1_8_olp?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524690861&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=gtx+1060&amp;condition=new
Edit: this was just the first I saw. There seems to be a good handful of sub $450 1060s available on Amazon.
PSU: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/cx-series-cx600m-modular-atx-power-supply-600-watt-80-plus-bronze-certified-modular-psu
GPU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IPVSGEC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
> RX 580
8GB Radeon RX 580 or 6GB GeForce GTX 1060?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01IPVSGEC/ref=dp_olp_0?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=all This is what I was considering
Just finished assembling my first build with the help of a friend and my MB is giving me some beep codes that don't seem to correspond to any that are listed on the website (for some reason, the manual doesn't have them listed).
Whenever I turn the computer on, it will proceed to emitt 5 LONG beeps then shut off and boot up again just to beep 5 more times. I am 99% sure it is long beeps because they last just over a second or so each. There is just no way those are short beeps. I have already tried booting without ram and with only 1 of the 2 sticks of ram each. I made sure they were seated properly also. I am just completely out of ideas and the internet seems to have no help.
Here are some of my specs:
MB: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128843
CPU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZZJ1P0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
RAM: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013H7Q86C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Video Card: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IPVSGEC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
PSU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K85X2AW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IPVSGEC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I guess so? Honestly, when I got it, I was paying more attention to the fan and cooling than the RAM speed.
Thank you. Is the item below the model youre suggesting?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IPVSGEC/ref=crt_ewc_title_huc_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
hi would a single fan gtx 1060 6gb work for this aswell?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IPVSGEC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
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Do not buy that card. It's a 1070Ti that's more than the price of some 1080's. Terrible deal. An air-cooled 1080 would be cheaper, quieter, and better by a good margin.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IR6LMLO/?tag=pcpapi-20
Thanks man,
Any ideas why this one is cheaper than the others? Its tempting at this price. It's like 50$ more than a 1070.
Or maybe should I go with the STRIX
Looking at buying one, currently on the Gigabyte Geforce 1060 6gb, are we expecting them to drop even more ?
Would more than likely get this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gigabyte-Geforce-Windforce-GeForce-Internal/dp/B01IR6LMLO/ref=sr_1_4?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525027972&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=gtx+1080&amp;dpID=51bpp6rWCmL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
The cheapest gtx 1080 I could find on amazon is $580
On a good day (or with a time machine) you should be able to find a 1080 for your budget. Keep in mind that a high end GPU won't bring you more joy when paired with just a pentium(extreme example)
Thats overpriced. Normally you should get a gtx 1080ti for 700. the 1070 for 550 is a good deal given the market these days thogh
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Windforce OC GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD Graphics Cards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IR6LMLO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zomYAbERH97X8
this card would be a good deal though, and its Gigabyte’s top of the line card after the gamer line.
I think on a 2.2k build it's a shame to not get a gtx1080 especially after it just got a $100 price drop and the 1070 didn't. Here is one for $694 only $120ish (20% ish) more than he 1070 you linked which would give 20-25% more gaming performance for about 5% more cost on the entire rig. It is also red and black.
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Windforce OC GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD Graphics Cards https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IR6LMLO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4P1rzbTY9CWTH
Thanks, I think that's the way I am going to go!
Looking at 1080s and I narrowed it down to this card but I am having some trouble making sure it is really the best option, any suggestion for resources to easily compare cards? Kinda getting confused with all the models available...
Also about the screen you recommended, is there any reason to go for it over comparatively priced 4k options?
Thanks~
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Graphics-GV-N1070G1-GAMING-8GD/dp/B01HHCA1IO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497135435&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=gigabyte%2B1070&amp;th=1 OR you can buy a 1080 for 50 dollars more then the strix you listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IR6LMLO/ref=psdc_284822_t5_B01HHCA1IO
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Windforce-GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD-Graphics/dp/B01IR6LMLO/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498184606&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=gtx+1080
https://www.amazon.com/ZOTAC-ZT-P10800C-10P-IceStorm-Wraparound-Ultra-wide/dp/B01GCAVRSU/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498184606&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=gtx+1080
Both seem pretty good to me.
Ive only seen one 8 pin port https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IR6LMLO/?tag=pcpapi-20
the 5th image shows the port.
I don't have a link for the duke but I do wanna know which is better from these two
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Windforce OC GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD Graphics Cards https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IR6LMLO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lqXFzbXP2BPVZ
You might wanna check this GTX 1080 out. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IR6LMLO/?tag=pcpapi-20
Get the 1070 unless you can get a 980ti used. The one you linked is incredibly overpriced. This 1080 is in stock in a week and is 30 more than the 980ti: https://www.amazon.ca/Gigabyte-GeForce-Windforce-GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD-Graphics/dp/B01IR6LMLO/
$499.99 is the best I found on Amazon.
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Windforce OC GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD Graphics Cards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IR6LMLO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_B2GCzb9SA3YPV
Whats the difference between yours and this one? This one is cheaper but idk why
Edit: price went 70$ higher . The heck
If the price is anything like $450 or more, just get the GTX 1080:
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Windforce-GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD-Graphics/dp/B01IR6LMLO/ref=zg_bs_284822_5?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=1SJHXSTNFPZY8HADY1ZF
Gigabyte Windforce
As I created this post, the price went up by a $100. RIP
500 for new one on Amazon
Now i'm scared because i just ordered the Gigabite gtx 1080 Windforce which it was at $499.99.
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-GV-N1080G1-GAMING-8GD-Graphics/dp/B01IR6LMLO?th=1&amp;psc=1
Would something like this work? https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Windforce-GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD-Graphics/dp/B01IR6LMLO?SubscriptionId=AKIAI3VLI6HITR26KCBQ&amp;tag=userbenchmark-20&amp;linkCode=sp1&amp;camp=2025&amp;creative=165953&amp;creativeASIN=B01IR6LMLO&amp;th=1
same price on Amazon for anyone interested but not a deal IMO
Yes, G-Sync requires a Nvidia card. If you can't find 1080s on Amazon try using pcpartpicker.com. If you want to buy specifically from Amazon you can use the Merchants/Pricing filter to limit it to Amazon. It looks like the cheapest good 1080 (reputable manufacturer, good cooler) on amazon at this time is this Gigabyte one.
Good build op, i agree with shaptizer on the case and ssd choice and maybe you could also save some 40 dollars by going with the cheaper gigabyte 1080 windforce card
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Windforce-GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD-Graphics/dp/B01IR6LMLO/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494341756&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=1080
The monitor you linked is $250 dollars in Canada, well things in Canada are a lot more expensive because of the exchange rate. Also if you want I found this on amazon which seems like a steal https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Windforce-GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD-Graphics/dp/B01IR6LMLO/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_lp_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=0Z9QSCMD5S165TTWMQD1 $540 dollars for a 1080
That particular model of 1070 has no backplate and 1070s in general are super overpriced nowadays. Just get this 1080 instead:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IR6LMLO/?tag=pcpapi-20
Prime only but there exists a free trial so that shouldn't really matter.
For this card? https://www.amazon.ca/Gigabyte-GeForce-Windforce-GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD-Graphics/dp/B01IR6LMLO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502508063&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=1080+windforce
Return it for that price, that's way to much considering they've dipped to $660-$665 (before tax) a few times over the past couple weeks.
I read it from this pcgamer article, from over 2 weeks ago. 1080 for ~$800. Then, I checked on amazon - Here's Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Windforce for $760.
I got a 1080 (EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 FTW2 iCX) back in early July'17 for $550. It's truly sad how the prices have skyrocketed due to alt-coin farming demand. A friend of mine is waiting on prices to drop to reasonable levels - and is almost considering getting a pre-assembled kit.
There's a version without rgb : https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IR6LMLO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_miNRAbNVPRCT5
(I bought it 5 months ago for only 650$ canadian now it's at 1128$ canadian)
are these two graphics cards essentially the same?
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Windforce-GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD-Graphics/dp/B01IR6LMLO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502834022&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Gigabyte+GeForce+GTX+1080+Windforce+OC+GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD+Graphics+Cards
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Windforce-GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD-Graphics/dp/B01IR6LMLO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502834022&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Gigabyte+GeForce+GTX+1080+Windforce+OC+GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD+Graphics+Cards
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IR6LMLO
There's also 1080 FTW for $499 on eBay.
Hey there.
I'm looking at getting into that 1080 life, so I was browsing cards today. Saw this and was wondering if there was a particular reason it's so cheap
on newegg -- on amazon
$644 CAD for a 1080 was the lowest price i saw by miles, anyone have insight as to why it's so much cheaper than others?
But prices have come down. You can get a 1080 for under MSRP now
Why founder's edition of the card? And not even off the website for MSRP.
Here's the Gigabyte Windforce Version it's only $560.
Here's one for $500 that I am considering.
the fans are working.
i just got the GTX 1080 windfoce https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IR6LMLO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
the fans are working
I was looking at the Gigabyte Geforce GTX 1080 for $659.99 CAN but feel like it's overkill. Wondering if there's something half that as an option.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01IR6LMLO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1
This one or this one with a fractal nano s case and lower heat generations as restrictions?
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01IR6LMLO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Hello, I am looking at building my first PC and I'm still learning everything I need to know. Hopefully I'm making sense when trying to ask this, if not I can try to clarify it.
&nbsp;
I was looking at Graphics Cards to see the price range of a few and I came across this Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 for $629. However all the other 1080's are $100 or $200 higher. The questions sections explains why this is but I'm wondering when new graphics cards come out, How do you know when it's the right time to buy? and when It's just a hold off due to it being a reference card(?)
&nbsp;
Graphics Card in Question: https://amzn.com/B01IR6LMLO
That Deal Ferret review is not including Amazon, you know the place where the majority of people buy their components...
https://uk.camelcamelcamel.com/Gigabyte-Geforce-Windforce-GeForce-Internal/product/B01IR6LMLO
Include Amazon own pricing in the side bar and set it to the past year and you can see it was at £440 since July until like a week ago when it has briefly dropped out of stock. So no its not BS you are just posting a "deal" that isnt a deal and im just trying to ensure people dont buy into it because you didnt take the time to do a simple price check, dont get so defensive this is a helpful sub Reddit not a karma farm.
Oh wow looks like I'll have a few extra hundred, do you think this would be a viable video card upgrade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KVZBNY0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_1hLJyb4YJNGHW ? Or where should I put that money if not
I don't see the point in getting that one tbh. Costs a lot and doesn't have an features that justify the price. Did you get some special deal on it or something?
This one is way better and costs less:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KVZBNY0/?tag=pcpapi-20
But to answer your question, no it shouldn't be that much louder than any other dual fan 1070. Should be fine.
This GTX 1070 ($389 with Amazon prime) is very powerful and fits into the top of your budget. It should be good for years to come unless your processor is too slow and bottlenecks it. The AMD RX 480 ( can probably find the 8gb model at $220 on sale) is also a good, and much cheaper, option that frequently goes on sale. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KVZBNY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VCXAybYK7PNST
https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-08G-P4-5173-KR/dp/B01KVZBNY0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=sl1&amp;tag=justin0cc-20&amp;linkId=acec7f311fbd7d5b42a5ae7bb74b6774
I gotcha. Yeah I’d probably start off with a 60hz monitor and then I’d upgrade after all the Christmas expenses are over. But knowing I’m going to upgrade monitors, should I just go ahead and go for the higher performer right off the bat?
As for the GPU, was thinking about this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KVZBNY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OyzaAbHR5XPZT
Thoughts?
stock evga clocks. But 3$ a day includes my 4790k oced to 4.7ghz.
Thanks for the help everyone. I have made a list of parts on amazon, and will order them soon.
I have a budget of $1000 CAD.
Here is the list:
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo CPU Cooler with PWM Fan, Four Direct Contact Heat Pipes
ASRock Motherboard (Z390 PRO4)
Intel Core i7-9700K
EVGA 500 Bq, 80+ Bronze 500W
HyperX Kingston Technology Fury Black 16GB 2666MHz DDR4
NZXT H500i
(gtx 1070 already owned but heres the link.)
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-GAMING-Support-08G-P4-5173-KR/dp/B01KVZBNY0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=gtx+1070+superclocked&qid=1564075297&s=gateway&sr=8-1
&#x200B;
edit: Already have SSD and HDD with windows 10 preloaded.
I'm looking to upgrade my gpu and on amazon the 2070 is currently $100 cheaper than this 1070. A friend of my said that the 2070 is better in some aspects but not all. Is the 2070 worth it especially at this price?
EDIT: I curretntly have a 770
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J63W42X/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-GAMING-Support-08G-P4-5173-KR/dp/B01KVZBNY0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=1070+evga&amp;qid=1563840924&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1
Workaround these for building your PC.
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Desktop-Processor-i7-7700K-BX80677I77700K/dp/B01MXSI216/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523998911&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=i7+8700k
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-8700K-Processor-Unlocked-BX80684i78700K/dp/B07598VZR8/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523998911&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=i7+8700k
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-GAMING-Support-08G-P4-5173-KR/dp/B01KVZBNY0/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523998926&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=gtx+1070
Now the 7700 and 8800 apparently have minimal differences. I would go with the cheaper one, but then again it's only an extra 20-30$ why not just go with the 8700k.
It's a terrible time to buy GFX cards right now since everyone in their mother is mining coins. I would go with this card though. I have a card like this and its perfect.
>and another $1500 for a computer to run it.
A GTX 970 is VR ready, and it's new gen equivilent GTX 1070 is also VR ready.
In total, if you were to scrimp on everything excluding the GPU and CPU, you're looking at maybe $1,000 for some of the high-end parts. Even with a i7 7700k you're only spending maybe $700 on both parts
$1500 would be for a top-of-the-line, future proof (for like, 1 generation) system. Maybe $900 total for a decent system that can easily handle VR.
Because it's 3rd party sellers. Which for some reason always charge stupid amount of prices when no one really has stock.
This one is still high but lower than the rest
https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-GeForce-GAMING-Support-08G-P4-5173-KR/dp/B01KVZBNY0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493239323&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=980ti
Thanks for the warning. If I buy this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00AZ9T3OU directly from Amazon, it should be fine, right?
Yes, FreeNAS-11.2-U5, was also working on U4.
I literally just plugged it in and plugged a drive in to it and it worked. I also have switched drives between the controller and the motherboard and that works too without breaking my pools. Support for the Marvell 9215 chipset was apparently added in FreeBSD 9.2... Not sure why you would be having trouble, does the card work in a different PC?
Oh fuck my bad, I Just double checked and THIS is the one I got... Slightly different but super close image wise. The one I got has the Marvel 9215, the one OP linked has Marvel 9235.. But based on a quick google it looks like the 9235 was added to be supported in FreeBSD 9 as well...
I ended up with this card and got nothing but errors.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I just grabbed a cheap one off Amazon, this one specifically.
I know for a fact that this one works:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and this one does not work
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816132018
Hope this helps
edit: Pretty sure the Marvell chipset makes the difference
this is one of them
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Cant remember the other model. Pretty much the same thing though.
I put together almost the exact same build a year or so ago to replace my Drobo. Like your case selection better than mine. The only thing I might suggest is springing for an i5 if you're going to be transcoding multiple streams.
I recently decided to add more HDDs to my build and ran out of SATA ports. Expanded with this. Good luck!
As /u/just_insane has mentioned, plex is a good option for streaming. I'm an opponent of freenas, in favor of using something homebrew (zfsonlinux with debian or ubuntu, in my case, gentoo with zfs) to do what you need. I don't like how finicky freenas can be even with server-grade hardware. It's just not my thing.
That said, for someone who's new, it may be a good idea to try out freenas or nas4free. I just finished building a 16TB usable (20.5TB raw) system last week. I'll link my items below.
2x iocrest controllers
1x16GB kingston ECC ram
1xNZXT source 210
5xHGST 4TB deskstar NAS
1xsupermicro mbd-x9scm-f-o - Great board. Loving it so far. dual onboard nic is nice.
2x850 Pro 256GB that I had laying around
1x 550W PSU laying around.
total ran me about $1300 and I'm able to max out a 2x1GB LACP setup writing and reading directly on rust.
EDIT: my recommendation, in most cases, is to at least do raidz1 (RAID5). RAID is no substitute for backups though, so invest in something offsite and make sure it's staying backed up. I use CrashPlan for offsite and local backups and it works like a charm.
I know someone with a gtx 1050 card, can anyone confirm the EVGA 430 watt works with it? I know the safer option is to buy the 500 watt but it is out of stock and waiting until january 15th would really suck. Asking since other power supplies of B-tier brands that were ~430 watts did not work but they were not 80+ white certified. I should probably also specify that I know that other websites have the power supply in stock but this person's money is in amazon gift cards so newegg isn't really an option.
I am planning to build my first pc as a Plex server on a budget. It seams to be CPU heavy So I went for a AMD FX-8320E that I got for $76 (7477 PassMarks or 3 HD streams). I also plan on putting a cheap graphics card in, so that 4k (only at 24hz) is playable. Below are the links that I am currently planing on buying for the rest of the computer, should there be any problems or suggestions I would appreciate the help.
[DeepCool TX Mid Tower TESSERACT]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NGCS7YA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3G6ANVJDF3WJZ&amp;coliid=I24WI846VML46O) $43
[Gigabyte AM3+ AMD 970 SATA 6Gbps USB 3.0 ATX AM3+] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CX4MUCC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3G6ANVJDF3WJZ&amp;coliid=I3KRO51UHVSQUX&amp;psc=1) $67
EVGA 430 W1, 80+ WHITE 430W $35
Kingspec 2.5" SATAIII 64GB SSD $28
MSI Graphics Card R7 240 2GD5 $56
Kingston HyperX FURY 4GB 1600MHz DDR3 x2 42$
AMD FX-8320E 78$
I already have a 5 tb hardrive , so the total would be about $320
Actually thinking I can get away with this one. https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-Certified-ATX12V-EPS12V-100-W1-0430-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465857007&amp;sr=1-1
cpu 113$ https://www.amazon.com/Intel-BX80662I36100-i3-6100-Cache-Processor/dp/B015VPX2EO?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B015VPX2EO&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;linkId=YTS6PKWRX25EWSGI&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=as_li_tl&amp;
motherboard 45$ - https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Intel-Micro-Motherboard-H81M-E33/dp/B00F42W70A/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465864030&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=MSI+H81M-P33
ram - 32$ https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-HyperX-FURY-1866MHz-DDR3/dp/B00J8E92I0/ref=sr_1_sc_6?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465863801&amp;sr=1-6-spell&amp;keywords=Kingston+Hyper+X+Fury+ram
hard drive 1tb - 50$ - https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Cache-Desktop-Drive-WD10EZEX/dp/B0088PUEPK?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=WD%20Caviar%20blue%201tb&amp;linkCode=sl1&amp;linkId=0dba8258662634c5d608223e8141c6eb&amp;qid=1465338535&amp;ref_=as_li_ss_tl&amp;ref_=sr_1_1&amp;s=pc&amp;sr=1-1&amp;
psu 430w -40$ https://www.amazon.com/Continuous-Power-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0430-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00H33SDR4&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;linkId=XTGZAAQECTGPOODY&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=as_li_tl&amp;
case 52$ - https://www.amazon.com/Fractal-Micro-Cooling-Cases-FD-CA-CORE-1100-BL/dp/B00NPIL6GQ?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=li2&amp;linkId=d6e477935d303515fb7a74e5a481374c&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=as_li_ss_il&amp;
gpu wait for the newer amd/nvidia ones or grab a 950 series (not familiar with amd's 200-400series)
Here is what I use. I verified reviews and looked on JonnyGuru before I did anything.
With that case almost any psu should work.
The 80+ basically refers to level of efficiency. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/80_Plus
The EVGA 430W and CX430 are both very low end and I'd actually take the CX over the EVGA.
for the simple fact that the EVGA is normally cheaper I'd get that if I really had to get either http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SDR4
The CX430 is a little better, for the current $39 it's not TOO bad.
If you can do the $20 rebate it's very good value as well.
Author: printerihardlyknower
Content:
>Ordered an S3 so that I could have a voice as a miner. Ordered this power supply:
> http://smile.amazon.com/EVGA-Continuous-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0430-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
>Realized it didn't have 2 pcie cables to power the miner. Noticed that I could maybe hook it up this way by using IDE adapter cables:
>Normal:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bz164hMKMESCS0Z6Y0RoWE5fS1E
Adapted:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bz164hMKMESCU1REdWE5ZE5KREk
>And could maybe even get a third one filled using a cpu cable and the left over 2 from the original 6+2 to keep the wire temps down:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bz164hMKMESCZ1RZRWFaVzNrak0
>I obviously haven't tried it yet because, for all I know, it'll explode. Does anyone here know whether this will work, or if I absolutely need to get another power supply?
>Thanks!
so I ordered this one from amazon. It says that it has Under Voltage Protection, so that to me means that it will shut off if it is under loaded
I'm thinking about getting this 430W EVGA psu for 30 bucks. It seems like a quality unit at a good price.
Don't buy a LP4 to 6 Pin connector. Those things start fires. Instead, just pay $7 more for the 500W version of that power supply.
Also, if you're not going to be using an ethernet cable, you'll need a wireless internet adapter.
Otherwise, it looks good!
>Is it because I bought a cheap "Inland" 500W PSU?
Very likely. These offbrand PSUs usually can't actually supply even half its stated voltage. Replace it immediately. This is cheap without being shit.
EDIT: No longer a brick of text.
This is $32 and a little better. https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1475252134&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=evga%2B500w&amp;th=1
Amazon has EVGA 80+ PSU's starting at $ 32 with free prime shipping.
The company offers them, it appears to change week to week and may be different than the site itself.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Power Supply | EVGA 430W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply | $25.98 @ Newegg
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $25.98
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-07-30 19:25 EDT-0400 |
On amazon the part has a $20 rebate instead
It may also be that Newegg gives you only part of the Rebate while redeeming the full one themselves. Which is understandable when dealing with a middleman.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SDR4/ is nothing special but is perfectly fine for your build if you're looking to save a little.
Understood, I will just update the list.
Motherboard: https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Intel-Micro-Motherboard-H81M-E33/dp/B00F42W70A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483448385&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=LGA+1150
CPU: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-I3-4160-Processor-Hyper-Threading-BX80646I34160/dp/B00LV8U0VE/ref=pd_sim_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00LV8U0VE&amp;pd_rd_r=GWDY83BF82VDFTNNT983&amp;pd_rd_w=oiHkd&amp;pd_rd_wg=olGte&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=GWDY83BF82VDFTNNT983
Graphics Card:https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Radeon-Windforce-Graphics-GV-RX460WF2OC-4GD/dp/B01K1JVCRE/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483448534&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=rx+450
RAM: Use the sticks you currently have
Hard Drive: Again, use the one you currently have
Case:https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Micro-Tower-Computer-SRM-01/dp/B00ZPWOA6I/ref=sr_1_12?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483448726&amp;sr=1-12&amp;keywords=Case
PSU:https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0430-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483448776&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=power+supply
It's an SFX psu, SFX is small form.. fuck I forgot what X means.
The case is ATX (don't ask, I don't know off hand) but that is why PCPP is saying it's incompatible, sure it might fit in there if you jerry rig it but.. the PSU shouldn't be trusted for work-documents anyways.. sketchy af and will prb bust after 2-4 years, and there is no 80+ certification so it will cost more in electricity and anxiety than you should pay.. for 29$ (just cents more after you include shipping on the sketchy af psu) you can get an [EVGA 430W 80+ PSU] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SDR4/?tag=pcpapi-20)
Now alternatively, if you are buying the PSU in the next five days there is [EVGA 80+ Bronze] (https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4g7CmG/evga-bv-450w-80-bronze-certified-atx-power-supply-100-bv-0450-k1) for only 20$ however it is only a sale for the next five days and normally costs 45~
[This one] (https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nykwrH/rosewill-case-fbm05) is a bit more work-office aesthetically looking as the Zalman has some bold design choices with 2 fan spots on the side too :/
[This Dell Monitor] (https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zQqbt6/dell-monitor-se2216h) is IPS, a slightly slower response time, same aspect ratio, same resolution, still has HDMI and VGA support, morerange of viewing angles, doesn't have built-in speakers, however is a bit more business-y aesthetic due to well "Dell".
You have a mobo/cpu choice that comes out to 160.75 (129.85 for mobo, and 30.90 for cpu *I use pricing from Amazon, Newegg, Dell Small Business, and Corsair) so I changed it.. to a G4400 and an Asus B150 board and both equal out to 132.98 for both.
[This is the new list] (https://pcpartpicker.com/list/dRZpLD) and you still have room for a [WD Caviar Blue 7200RPM within $500] (https://pcpartpicker.com/list/dCfwJV)
I found this evga one that is pretty cheap, would this be ok? - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SDR4/ref=nav_ya_signin?claim_type=EmailAddress&amp;new_account=1&amp;
All very good components. You should have no problem hitting 60fps on any of the latest titles at 1080p on high-ultra settings.
Also worth noting, I have the same tesseract case. It's very easy to build inside of, lots of room for cable management, and the drive bays are great to snap in and out of.
You could save a few bucks on your PSU if you wanted; unless you planned on doing some serious upgrades in the future, a 500W or even 430W PSU should be plenty for that build; you can find a quality 430W PSU for $30 regularly.
I bought a refurbished 1TB WD drive from amazon here and saved a few more dollars as well. I haven't had any issues with it; it's up to you if you felt it was worth it though.
OP wants to buy in a month. It will be in stock by then.
You are right about the psu, one could get https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0430-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4 instead. It is most likely not better, but one would save a few $.
Really thanks for all your replies... here's a last one from me, please advise
http://www.amazon.in/EVGA-80PLUS-Certified-ATX12V-100-W1-0430-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495284611&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=evga+430w
http://www.evga.com/products/Specs/PSU.aspx?pn=41487990-ce9c-4d28-bc96-b628fcebe303
No your supply does not provide sufficient power. Load wattage for your system is around 300 watts, Which is around 60 watts higher than your psu can handle. It might work for a little while but it will be very inefficient costing more money in power bills and it is also very dangerous to run what is most likely a low quality oem psu at excessive wattages.
A very cheap and good quality psu with sufficent wattage would be this. I recommend you buy this instead of attempting to run your expensive hardware on a low quality psu, hardware which could be damaged or destroyed by the weak low quality psu. The psu I recommended is cheap and will get the job done in your use case but if you get components that need more power another more expense psu upgrade will be necessary to be safe.
It's not a question of price, it's a question of quality. However there are good quality, cheap power supplies. Here's a decent quality, $30 power supply.
Sorry for the late response i completely forgot about this! Heres the part fam:
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Power-Supply-100-W1-0430-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487707327&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=evga+430w
I couldn't find it on pcpartpicker.
Hi, So I built my current rig back in April 2017 and thought I'd upgrade this black friday but I dont know what to upgrade. I'm running:
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Case: Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 Case
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Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-H110M-A LGA1151 Intel H110 Micro ATX DDR4 Motherboard
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Processor: Intel 3.70 GHz Core i3-6100 3M
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Graphics card: GIGABYTE Geforce GTX 1050 2GB
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RAM: 1 stick of Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB DDR4 Dram
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Power Supply: EVGA 430 W1
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Storage: WD Blue 1TB Sata Hard Drive
&#x200B;
This is the only PC I've ever built and I've never upgraded before. I would like to upgrade my CPU because its an i3 and I know its getting outdated but I dont know if thats the only thing needing an upgrade. I usually get 150+ frames on Counter-Strike and around 120fps on Overwatch but these are all on low settings. However I just recently bought BO4 and can barely run at 60 fps at low. Any advice as to what processor I need to upgrade to?
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Would one of these suffice?
EVGA 430w White
EVGA 500w White
I'd prefer the cheaper one only cause I can get it tomorrow if I can't find something at Best Buy.
Jackpot!
That's PCIe. Even better you have full height slots so you can buy a less expensive GTX 750 / 750 ti. Heck, you'll save enough over the half height 750/750ti cards that you could buy a new power supply if need be.
Power supply:
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-80PLUS-Certified-ATX12V-100-W1-0430-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1413505636&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=evga+430w it is a 80 plus, when i went to order all my stuff, i meant to click the 500watt one but i accidentally forgot lmao, and they already shipped it off
for 300-400 i would do:
I5 3570k http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-Core-i5-3570K-3-4-GHz-Quad-Core-CM8063701211800-Processor/131756193771?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&amp;_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150604093004%26meid%3Ddad780c882d249bcb8a3d60fab9fa2a8%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D191830344564&amp;rt=nc
Another stick of RAM: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B3XB3MW/?tag=pcpapi-20
and a GTX 750TI to keep it low for your stock Power supply to handle: http://www.ncixus.com/products/?usaffiliateid=1000031504&amp;sku=94331&amp;vpn=02G-P4-3751-KR&amp;manufacture=eVGA&amp;promoid=1302
but if you can squeeze out the extra money for a power supply: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SDR4/?tag=pcpapi-20
Sorry that the links are so long
Are CPU power cable extensions universal? I'm changing out a PSU, last PSU was installed at a shop. The CPU cable has a little extension, (looks like this guy) If I can leave the extension in it'll save me having to remove the mobo, but I don't want to fry anything.I'm installing a EVGA 450 bronze to replace a faulty EVGA 430W psu.
Edit: Oh also, that 430 is way more expensive than the 450; is it higher quality? I bought that 450 for $10 after MIR for a quick fix without any downtime on the computer. I can still RMA the 430 and put it back in if it's a better/stronger/more reliable part.
Sorry, had to dig deep into my Amazon order history back to August 2016 lol. It's this one! EVGA 430 W1, 80+ WHITE 430W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-W1-0430-KR, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SDR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rdCMBbHTMCBHY
Yeah, for $30 you can get an 80+ bronze 350-450watt brand new.
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Power-Supply-100-W1-0430-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4/
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Power-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;refRID=FQB67DGEDAD70RGRPC66&amp;th=1
Any thoughts on this one?
EVGA 430W for $29.99 from Amazon
The CPU is super good for what you want to do with your PC, the power supply covers what you need to power the PC, you could probably shell out another $20 and get a trustworthy one like the EVGA 430W which gives you a good warranty and replacement in case something goes wrong with your build.
https://www.amazon.com/XFX-RX-460P2SFG5-Radeon-DisplayPort-PCI-Express/dp/B01JGQU8WI/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482159977&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=rx+460
RX 460 is a budget card that costs $100 if you're only looking for games at that level, that should be fine. Don't expect to be playing Overwatch or anything. (EDIT: Actually the 460 can play overwatch at 60fps, TIL)
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0430-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482160125&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=evga+430
EVGA is a quality PSU brand and it likely doesn't even cost more than the one you had out. Just in case, that brand you had has been known to short out if you get close to it's rated power. Only get that PSU if you want to break your machine.
I would drop the cpu cooler since the i3-6100 comes with one and that will be sufficient enough. The gtx 1060 is better than the 1050ti for only $50 more. Also the wifi card you have is overpriced and this does the same for cheaper. And I doubt you really need a cd writer but your choice. This is also a cheaper psu with close to the same wattage.
It's not satan, but this is about the same price, and much better.
This is the cheapest power supply I feel comfortable recommending:
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Continuous-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0430-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4/
More than you need, but it's cheap.
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Continuous-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0430-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451323126&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=psu&amp;refinements=p_85%3A2470955011%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6906982011%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A2888266011
You can use a contactor and a computer psu.
Connect the contactor coil to one of the timer's outlets, the PSU to the NO and NC contacts, and the leds to the other end of the NO and NC contacts
Here's the basic parts list to build a bucket like this:
Lots of this stuff can be had cheaper at a home improvement or pet store. Check around. You'll need a soldering iron (I like my adjustable 40w), a drill and drill bits up to 3/4" (I like step bits for work on plastic), a heatgun or lighter to shrink that heatshrink tubing. An infrared thermometer is nice to have and can tell you the temp of your nutrients, the plant itself, your lights, etc...Just make sure to calibrate it first, all the cheap ones are inaccurate by at least a few degrees.
It's this psu: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H33SDR4/ref=as_li_tl?tag=austevan-20&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;linkId=fd23a6f3ce997c56eddb27233d46a81a
How’s this as end result? (I want to buy everything on amazon) (there are 8) :
this one sadly rose in price
I think this one dropped
.
is the format good?
.
.
.
Thanks!
&nbsp;
Here's what I ended up with:
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DDA6VRE/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H33SDR4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The maker of the video says that he found several components on sale/used, as well as took advantage of rebates. He doesn't include mouse and keyboard into the price because 99% of people have that already, as well as a monitor because even a tv could be used.
Case: Cooler Master Wavemaster ($10)
Honestly, computers can be built into a cardboard box if need be.
CPU: i5 750 ($55)
CPU Cooler: Arctic Silver 11 GT ($6)
Motherboard: Asus P7H55 ($67)
PSU: EVGA 430W ($15)
Memory: 4GB OCZ DDR2 ($30)
HDD: 320GB Samsung Spinpoint ($20)
GPU: MSI GTX 760 ($140)
The computer will run Crisis 3 on ultra settings at 30fps. Dark Souls 2 can be played at 4K(DSR) at 60fps. The Witcher 3 and Fallout 4 on high at 30fps. There's more but im tired of typing.
I bought a 430 EVGA Power supply. Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H33SDR4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And i bought the EXP GDC V8: http://www.banggood.com/NGFF-Version-V8_0-EXP-GDC-Beast-Laptop-External-Independent-Video-Card-Dock-p-1009978.html?rmmds=search
I believe you can get a better connection with a pe4c v4.1: http://www.hwtools.net/Adapter/PE4C%20V4.1.html
It's more expensive than the GDC dock. I havent done it yet since I'm in college and my schedule is quite busy. I don't exactly have the funds yet either lol.
I would suggest a 1060, since bottlenecking is a factor. If you buy a 1070, you probably won't be able to harness all of it power, thus decreasing the price to performance ratio when compared to a 1060.
Good Luck!
Thank you for taking the time to help me with this build. I appreciate the help from someone who is experienced with building PCs. I have a couple of new questions about the parts in the list you provided:
Why did you upgrade it to 16GB of RAM? I'm not planning on doing VR gaming, and I've learned through doing some online research that the most RAM that a large majority of games need is 8GB.
Since this configuration consumes only 230W, could I just downgrade the PSU to this one?
I noticed that none of the vendors in your list are Amazon. My original thinking was that it would be cheaper to ship these parts all at the same time using Amazon Prime. Do these other vendors offer better support/customer service?
Here's a new list that I came up with, based on your recommendations:
Part | Name | Price ($)
---|---|---
Motherboard|MSI Pro Series Intel B250 LGA 1151 DDR4 HDMI USB 3.1 micro-ATX | 79.99
GPU|MSI GTX 1050 TI 4GT OC | 139.99
CPU|Intel Boxed Pentium Processor G4500 FC-LGA14C 3.5 1 LGA 1151 BX80662G4500 | 70.09
RAM|Corsair LPX 8GB DRAM 2666MHz C16 memory kit for Systems 8 DDR4 2666 (PC4 21300) DDR4 2666 | 65.09
HDD|WD Blue 1TB SATA 6 Gb/s 7200 RPM 64MB Cache 3.5 Inch Desktop Hard Drive | 49.99
SSD|WD Blue 250GB PC SSD - SATA 6 Gb/s M.2 2280 Solid State Drive - WDS250G1B0B | 72.65
Case|Rosewill Micro-ATX Mini Tower Computer Case with Dual USB 3.0, Dual Fans and 12.5-Inch Card LINE-M Black | 39.95
PSU|EVGA 430 W1, 80+ WHITE 430W Power Supply | 34.99
Price with Shipping and tax estimate| | 608.10
$444.90
Motherboard https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019EOPC8W/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A3JJ6E432635IP&amp;psc=1
Memory
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UFF7Y72/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
Graphicscard
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M6Y671T/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
Power supply
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H33SDR4/ref=ox_sc_act_image_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
Case
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SAYCFF6/ref=ox_sc_act_image_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
Processor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015VPX05A/ref=ox_sc_act_image_6?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
Hard drive
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0088PUEPK/ref=ox_sc_act_image_7?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
Heard this graphics card can run overwatch with all ultra settings on with 71 fps
Merica is cheaper, 25-30 bucks for a 400 watt evga
Edit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H33SDR4/ref=mp_s_a_1_5/130-3450616-6813866?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493849977&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=power+supply&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51qZdepsxVL&amp;ref=plSrch
What do you mean modify cabling? This is my first build so im not sure what cabling you mean
Edit: sorry forgot to leave psu
Here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H33SDR4/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A2L77EE7U53NWQ
so these are my pc parts:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MEFABEL/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3O8MGUOH6PWUV&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZZJ1P0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0165YUDTM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0198QDKGW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=A17MC6HOH9AVE6&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009SX6VLC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?smid=AZCEI3EMXUPTH&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LIDU5S/ref=ox_sc_act_title_9?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088PUEPK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_10?smid=AE7LQOSLC8Z85&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H33SDR4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_11?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
can you please tell me if there is room for improvement here because this is my first pc build (that includes if I need to upgrade the psu)
I have to say that's a really nice set up you got there. After building my computer in a similar price point if i would change anything I would get a slightly cheaper cooler. The only reason you would want a cooler like that is if you are doing some serious overclocking. I would spend the money you save to get a more efficient power supply like this Depending on your area this might actually be cheaper, in that case you should upgrade your SSD.
Is this a good power supply?
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-ATX12V-Supply-120-G1-0650-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406060198&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=650w+power+supply
This would be better especially in the long run:
EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G1 80+ GOLD, 650W Continuous Power, Fully Modular 10 Year Warranty Power Supply 120-G1-0650-XR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VKyvxb8N80TZR
Fully modular will help a lot in a smaller case
I'd HAVE to fix that madness before giving it back to him. Also his HDD is the wrong way....it should be facing the other way if cable managing allows it to be.
His AIO isn't bad but should be placed on the exhaust area to push the hot air that RISES out of the back of the case, but that is my two cents.
Also advise your mate to spend a LITTLE bit more and get a fully (not those shitty semi) modular PSU next time. Fully modular PSUs are GREAT! The current PSU is neither, hence why there is a lot of cables everywhere.
Again this is all my 2 cents, but yeah I'd have to manage those cables before giving it back....just ew.
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-120-G1-0750-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1461589877&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=PSU&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
It has the SuperNova NEX650G... but it has the handle and red PCI connectors. The one I was looking at has neither of those. ???
Never, ever get a budget PSU, unless you like fire and fried GPUs.
Here a great PSU, under $100 bucks:
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-120-G1-0650-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW/
If you are willing to go to 99 bucks here's an even better one:
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G2-0650-Y1/dp/B0106RDIN2/
You should get a good power supply, that most likely solve your issues, buy something good, at least a evga 600b. But if you can afford it buy a supernova
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-120-G1-0650-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW
I was moreso thinking of this
do you think i can replace that PSU with this one? because its not available on amazon :<
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K85X2AW/?tag=pcpapi-20&amp;th=1
Thanks for the input. Any thoughts on this one from EVGA? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K85X2AW/?tag=pcpapi-20
And yes, this will be for a server/rendering box
I think that is a great build but, I prefer this power supply but, I don't know how the pricing compares in euros. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K85X2AW/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I30JAO6OKJD0RZ&amp;colid=KXLRGCFHNAVH
I have this one (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K85X2AW/?tag=pcpapi-20)
If you're spending $~80 on a PSU, something like this would be better, you don't need the extra 100W from your current one and the gold rating will save you some money in the long run over the bronze rated one. It's also fully modular so that should make cable management easier.
I'd personally recommend a different PSU, as others have mentioned.
This or this would actually be the same or cheaper than the Corsair (assuming you're ordering from Amazon or Newegg), is Gold certified, fully modular, and has much better internal components than the Corsair does.
Your friend might run that PSU without issues, but a lot of people have run into issues with Corsair PSUs, and just because his works doesn't mean yours will. Just my two cents, take it with a grain of salt, I'd just want to make sure that my PSU is as good as it could be, especially if you're spending close to $1,500 on your build.
As long as you don't overclock, you should be okay. But if you do plan to overclock, your low thermal overhead may cause the fans to spin which could introduce extra noise. I would throw a little extra coin at a EVGA 650w 80+ Gold Fully Modular. On another note, I would personally recommend going with a WD Blue 2TB over the Seagate Barracuda.
It won't hurt anything if the wattage is higher, but it will provide literally no benefit to your computer. Power is drawn at the rate it's needed, not "pumped in" so if your computer only needs (example) 350W for what it's doing, that's all it'll draw.
I have an EVGA power supply in my computer. I like that they have a 10 year warranty. (not all) Others still have a 7 year, and you can always put it into the next computer if you need to.
Something like this?
Picked one with a 10 year for you, but i don't know if that fits what you want.
Keep an eye out on this one. It often goes on for 74.99. 650W Gold Power Supply from EVGA. Fully Modular
https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-120-G1-0650-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498825762&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=evga+supernova+650
Would this be fine? https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Supernova-120-G1-0650-XR-Modular-Supply/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1488214866&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=modular+psu
Any reason for the micro atx board? Also yeah, switch to a gold rated power supply such as this.
You can get a cheaper fully modular PSU here.
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Continuous-Warranty-120-G1-0650-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW
This one.
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Continuous-Crossfire-220-GS-0650-V1/dp/B00UVN20AO/?tag=logicaincrem-20
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Continuous-Warranty-120-G1-0650-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW/?tag=logicaincrem-20
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151095&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-LogicalIncrements.com%20Inc-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10440897&amp;PID=5961731&amp;SID=0
Seemed like everyone around says not to do splitters, especially for the risers so I just tried to do 1 thing per cable.
I'm considering something like 2x of these for the next one. Each should be able to power 3 gpu's easily and it's only ~160 total - https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-120-G1-0650-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501354763&amp;sr=1-1&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6906985011&amp;th=1
Looking further into it (and realising this is Canadian dollars) the GPU isn't all that bad. You could possible go for a black GPU instead to add contrast with the white motherboard.
An i7 may be a bit overboard for this build, you could go down to a i5-7600k and chop about 100CAD off the build price.
I don't think a white PSU exists, and you wouldn't be able to see much of it anyways- go for a modular PSU e.g. and you can buy your own white power cables!
Think this should be fine.
What about this model? EVGA SuperNOVA 650G1?
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-ATX12V-Supply-120-G1-0650-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419900257&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=EVGA+SuperNOVA+650G1
It's on sale in Canada
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-120-G1-0650-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496107734&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=650w+modular
something like that would be a considerate upgrade and will SIGNIFICANTLY HELP with cable management.
Thanks again for the help man. One last thing if you don't mind. Is this the type of product I should be looking for and is it compatible with my system?
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-ATX12V-Supply-120-G1-0650-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420588296&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=gold+psu
Also, do I really NEED more than 650 watts for my system to run properly or is 650 fine? Thanks again :)
You mean its not normal to keep a PSU for almost 10 years? lol jk. I kinda forgot how long its been since I upgraded that. I don't really build new comps so much as continuously upgrade once.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3CMJ9K0CCYZ7&amp;coliid=I1BTAQDYD1PO4R&amp;th=1
I'm thinking of just saying "screw it" and getting that. what do you think? I've been spending way too much time looking at computer parts this week.
this one?
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-120-G1-0650-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479491437&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=supernova+nex650g
I'd go with at least 600w. http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Continuous-Warranty-120-G1-0650-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450911011&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=650+watt+psu
Alright, after considering what you said and because my PSU is still refundable with Amazon, I've decided to ship it back and replace it with this EVGA PSU.
It's a good one, right? And Amazon will refund my PSU on the basis of coil whine/unpleasant noise under a load, correct?
Thanks for all your help.
Graphics Card
It looks like you want to play at 1080p resolution(which is great btw) @60fps or higher. You also seem like you might want to try VR later. Your best options for a graphics card is the 1070 or a 1060. The 1060 is a cheaper option with VERY good performance. Depending on the model you get, you can achieve close performance to a 1070 for under $300.
CPU
To be completely honest with you, an i7-6700k sounds nice and all, but in terms of gaming, its not all that. You want to do streaming and stuff right? Well an i5 6600K would do fine for streaming most games. It really just depends if you're willing to cut cost by looking at performance efficiency. If you don't mind then by all means go with the i7, its a great cpu of course.
Motherboard
*I'm not really sure, if you're getting a k-cpu then you should probably get a z170 board. If you care for aesthetics, I suggest this https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-LGA1151-Intel-Motherboards-GA-Z170X-Gaming/dp/B012N6E996/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482194155&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=z170+motherboard, and https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Performance-Z170A-Motherboard-3X/dp/B01CX4VJP0/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482194948&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=z170+motherboard. I'm not an expert on motherboards but a good msi z170 that looks this nice can't be bad.
You should know that if you decide to go 1440p, you're only gonna be getting 60hz unless you want to spend $500< on a higher refresh rate monitor.
Here's a Gold-Certified 650W thats only about $5 more than the one you have listed. https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-120-G1-0650-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482195157&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=gold+certified+power+supply.
If you decide to go with an i5 and 1060 instead, then you end up saving a couple hundred which you can use for things like a better case or custom sleeves for aesthetics. If you keep that monitor, then I recommend keeping the i7 and getting a 1060 instead.https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Gaming-GV-N1060G1GAMING-6GD-Graphics/dp/B01IEA1IMQ/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482195400&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=gtx%2B1060&amp;th=1
All and all its a pretty good build and I wish you the best of luck
Ah okay! Tyvm. :)
One last question; would this one be suitable?
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-120-G1-0650-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW/
What do you guys think of this power supply, I live in Quebec and electricity is pretty cheap, do you think Bronze would be a cheaper alternative to Gold in the long run? I'm looking at this http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182132&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8JunctionCA&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8JunctionCA-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;AID=10592396&amp;PID=3938566&amp;utm_medium=affiliates&amp;utm_source=afc-%zn
75$ - 7.5$ + 10$ ship + tax = 81.35$
VERSUS
https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-120-G1-0650-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
99$ + tax = 113$
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AGysybGMFY39C
Also curious, is there a specific reason you're going with a Zotac SSD?
I would say:
Your RAM is expensive, look into Corsair LPX 2133mz or more, good cheap RAM.
Noctua is a great brand in anything fan, even though it's ugly.
Your power supply, EVGA is a great brand but the NEX items are not their best, look at their G1.
Not sure why the case says it's incompatible with the CPU fan but either way you should look into something with a window.
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Continuous-Warranty-120-G1-0650-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452205761&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=power+supply&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6906985011%7C6906986011%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A2888290011%2Cp_89%3AEVGA%7CCorsair
Alright, I've whittled down to this. Is this good? I figured, well, hell with it. I may as well not have a bomb in my room, let alone my computer!
So I blew my budget, but I've decided to go with this power supply and this case. See any issues?
Repost after first was removed:Fixed links(I think, again)
Sorry, had the wrong graphics card in that list. fixed now.
Okay, I was acutally planning on getting one that is a level down.
Until I can get a new PSU, is there anything I can do to make due with what I have? Or is this a situation where there really isn't another option without causing risk to the new card?
This will be a really solid power supply. It's a bit on the expensive side, but you shouldn't have any issues and it should last you for several years.
If you asked me this a week ago I wouldn't have known what I should do. However, I've learned a lot and have this in my shopping cart. Still not sure if it's overkill, but it seems to be a good price.
response to #2- I need to find out all the specs on my MOBO, but I know it had 3 3GB/s SATA ports (which would limit my SSD I was told), I don't think my MOBO has USB 3.0 ports. Also I'm checking to make sure it has a PCI 2.0 Express 16. So those are the areas I would be looking for in a MOBO.
Yeah its modular. Here's a link to the exact model https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K85X2AW?pc_redir=T1
My psu in my pc broke so I had my brother send my extra psu, which is the 650w, to me. For the summer I'm living about four hours or so from my apartment for my job, and I forgot to have him send the cord along with the psu. I've seen online that you can buy complete sets of cables but all I need is the 24 pin one.
Shoot, I misread what you posted slightly and went ahead and have bought these parts so far:
Case: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BKX75YA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Power Supply: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K85X2AW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Hard Drive: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088PUEPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Everything will still fit in this case right?
I changed mine out relatively soon after purchase.
Suggestion, get a modular PSU (which means cables are plugged in, "as needed"), and probably somewhere in the 600-800W range.
Also, gold or better grade.
Here is the one I'd suggest: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K85X2AW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495321956&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=evga+psu&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41VrZifF-%2BL&amp;ref=plSrch
Wouldn't hurt to buy an anti static band ($5) to avoid static shock of components... especially if in and out of the case a lot. (You wear this whenever touching internal components)
Whats the difference between the EVGA GS, G1, G2?
I think my EVGA GS 550w PSU keeps killing my motherboards/HDDs/SSDs. I posted this last night didn't get much response.
Since the RMA turn around for EVGA's PSU's is 6-12 days I need to just buy a new one off Amazon Prime so I'll have it Thursday. Should I get the G1, G2, or a 550W g2.
Is there any chance EVGA will cover the damaged parts? I'm out over $300 after all this which I really hadn't budgeted for when I planed my rig.
i did assemble the pc, new 970 and http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K85X2AW?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 one month ago, everything has been working fine. no sticker on anything
It's a completely new OS installation and not even the same harddrive my 570 ran on.
I've posted my specs before looking for help on other subreddits but no one could ever identify what would be causing the issue.
2500k (overclocked to 4.6Ghz)
Motherboard
DDR3 16GB of RAM (overclocked to 1866Mhz)
The R9 390 is the MSI one
PSU
Samsung 1TB 850 Evo SSD as main storage (OS and games)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K85X2AW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Here's my PSU.
I know where everything goes... except this.
How does this look?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K85X2AW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K85X2AW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
650
This my Power Supply
how can i tell if my psu is failing or if something else is wrong? i started to play shadow of mordor and my computer randomly shut off three times. i opened it up to check everything and clean it up, but it still shut off when i started to play again. the computer is currently on, has a temp. of 80 degrees F and it's working without a problem.
my psu is currently this one:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K85X2AW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Hi, I appreciate the comment. I was considering this PSU https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K85X2AW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER and no I already have the NZXT 410 phantom case
If it's modular don't reuse the cables on another PSU. Good way to fry it. Go EVGA or Seasonic for the new one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K85X2AW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496254776&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=evga+power+supply&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41VrZifF-%2BL&amp;ref=plSrch
far superior psu on amazon for just ten bucks more
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K85X2AW/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_10?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
I had my eye on this one,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K85X2AW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
any good? There are plenty of great reviews about it
For a budget build planning to expand in the future, you need some good bones to work with. I would put a case towards the top of the list. It's something you're going to keep for years so don't feel bad about $100 to $150 here. Next most important is the power supply. If you plan on getting a second video card in the future, you're going to need a better power supply. Buy something nice now so that when you go to get a second card, or even just a nicer one, you don't end up having to buy another PS first. For less money and better quality I would recommend this one. http://amzn.com/B00K85X2AW Not only is it cheaper, but it's more watts AND it's fully modular. If you stick to the same price point, you could get 750W which is what you will need as a bare minimum to SLI/Crossfire with some cards. Motherboard is the third priority. You can get a few years out of a solid MB. Plus MBs determine what upgrades you can get in the future. Case, MB and PS to me are the most important, all the others you can upgrade your will.
Good question. Typically, 80 Plus Gold PSUs have higher quality components that are more reliable and less likely to damage your system. Think of it as insurance to protect your top-end i7 CPU and GTX 1070. Example of a good Gold rated PSU for only $5 USD more: https://amzn.com/B00K85X2AW
my Pi 3 was struggling with the "2.5A" power supply that came with my case/heatsink/fan kit; constant low voltage warning when under load. Picked up this one been running great ever since.
Yeah, honestly the best way to power a pi is with the official power supply. Add a second power supply for your lights - it's hard to recommend one without knowing how much power you need for your LEDs.
I personally use canakit's power supply which is slightly less expensive. They also sell their items through Amazon.
Is wattage the only thing I need to worry about then? I was aiming for correct voltage, probably a very novice mistake.
Edit: found this https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1466353372&amp;amp;sr=1-14 could I just hook this up to a dummy battery like in my diagram?(and probably also a potentiometer) It actually seems a lot easier to do it this way.
People seem to have success with the Canakit one: https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4
You could also go to any gadget/Apple store and buy an iPad charger. For your workload of a Pi and one connected device that will work fine.
The power supply needs to be a micro USB one (sorry I forgot to mention that). So like a phone charger. I find my Samsung phone charger works fine - it is only something like 2.1A so occasionally I get slowdown (a little lightning symbol appears on the screen which means "Low voltage"), so ideally find a 5V micro USB charger at 2.5A for optimal performance. On the USA Amazon site, this one is good: https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4 But if you have a micro USB phone charger already, you could just try it and see if it works.
For the control pads, yeah if they work with a PC through USB then it should hopefully work on the Retropie as well. It's pretty much plug and play - when you put a new controller in, it asks you to press some keys and it is all set up automatically.
Don't know which websites in Canada would be good sorry. Where I am from I just went into a local electronics shop and got everything (Raspberry Pis are actually pretty common, you don't even have to go to a dedicated computer shop).
I just buy this one every time. It works fantastic with every Raspberry I've ever built, plus Amazon prime FTW.
Unless there is a specific reason you want a 2b+ i would just buy a pi 3 model B You can current order a pi 3 from [thepihut.com] (https://thepihut.com/collections/raspberry-pi/products/raspberry-pi-3-model-b) for £30.00 and then order your case and what not from them too or buy your case and stuff off amazon. things you will need beside the board
Power
Class 10 SD Card
optional but recommended case
price total: around $55 USD
Edit* changed link to correct SD card for a pi 3
I have two of these: https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4
CanaKit 5V 2.5A Raspberry Pi 3 Power Supply / Adapter / Charger (UL Listed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-jbBybHH4T0MC
Permanent cable, 5 foot long.
Its this adapter here: https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4/
It's what you plug into the wall to supply your device with power... Looks like this... https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493155225&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=raspberry+pi+power+supply
Power adapter I would say get the canakit for the rpi3b+
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_H5qMBbF4WKVQQ
I have a case from wish that I spent 2 bucks on. So that’s totally up to you. If you plan to use it heavily I would say get some good fans and beat sinks
iUniker Raspberry Pi 3 B+ Dual Fan with Raspberry Pi Heatsink, Raspberry Pi Fan for Raspberry Pi 3B+/Pi 3 B/Pi 2 B https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D5WWNH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_76qMBbD640R1H
Then get a new memory card and download the Retropie image and flash it using something like applepibaker.
Done.
retropie-4.2-rpi2_rpi3.img. The power supply I bought has those exact specs
I've always found the Pi USB port was able to charge it, I use this power supply for my Raspberry Pi, if you aren't able to charge it it is possible that you're Pi isn't getting enough power to power the USB ports. If the cable isn't allowing charging you may consider switching USB cables, I have a cheap Amazon Basics one and it seems to work fine.
Tablet charger is probably fine. I'm not aware of an "official" charger. I bought this one though: http://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458158418&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=cana+kit
Side note, I spent $50 shipped on a PI3 from Adafruit, $6 on a 8 GB uSD card, $10 on a power supply and $5 on heat sinks. $71 total. I'll need to print an enclosure for it. In hind sight, I wish I had spent $75 on this: http://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458158418&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=cana+kit
Raspberry Pi 3, running Openelec, runs pretty flawlessly, and you only need to supply a power supply [(2.5 amp version)] (http://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458053068&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=raspberry+pi+power+supply), and a microsdhc card. The Raspberry Pi 3 can use your tv remote with HDMI-CEC, so you don't even need a secondary remote control for it.
As others have mentioned, a micro SD and an adapter are necessary as well. I'd also recommend this power supply for guaranteed 2.5A, though the one you already have may be very similar: https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498077621&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=raspberry+pi+3+power+supply.
What I haven't seen anybody note, though, is that Buffalo offers newer controllers that also happen to be cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XWD8QQJ/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_2_w.
Sorry. I should have said “extremely low frame rate” instead of “slideshow”.
Power source should be good, I thought. From the wall, I’ve got a CanaKit 5V 2.5A. That plugs into a Powerboost 1000c which powers the pi zero w from a beefy 3.7V, 2500mAh lithium ion battery. That should be enough juice, right?
I even took it apparent and got some fans on it to confirm it wasn’t an over-heating issue. I’m just worried it something wrong with the display. I’m gonna fiddle with those config settings they had me add and I’ll try hdmi_safe. It’s gonna be something obvious, I’m sure. Just need to figure it out.
Thanks again, btw, for all your help. Really, it’s made my life so much easier. The worst part of a project, though, is final assembly and having everything ALMOST working.
My research shows this is the best power supply: https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=cm_wl_huc_item
Retro games build. Parts totaled around $100.
More images -> http://imgur.com/gallery/g3udGC0
https://retropie.org.uk/
http://retroflag.com/SUPERPi-CASE-U.html
Parts:
RetroFlag SNES case
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HF5YDB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nIKRBbHEVK0SM
Raspberry Pi 3 B+
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BDR5PDW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YIKRBbWP3DEX0
5v 2.5A Power adaptor for Raspberry Pi
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GLKRBb6J2E775
64GB Samsung Evo Micro SD Card
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XX29S9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uOKRBbXMR4DGZ
CanaKit 5V 2.5A Raspberry Pi 3 Power Supply / Adapter / Charger (UL Listed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_L-hFzb5RFN9E4
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, but this is the power adaptor I use. It works great with the case. If you are having a mating issue with the power port, check to make sure that the pi is sitting correctly in the case, and also make sure that the ends of the case line up and aren't pushed too far one way or the other.
Hello,
To power it you only need a microusb cord that should have come with any android phone, but a 2A is highly suggested for properly working like this one.
To hook up the raspberry pi model that will fit that case to an older tv you will need a A/V to RCA cable like this, and you will have to change the setting on the pi to default a/v out of the port instead of hdmi.
And finally that case should work fine.
Also I think there is only one SD card port on that model and that is where the OS will go, if you want to watch shows from a non-internet source will have to put the media on a usb drive and plug it into the pi. If you just want to use it to watch stuff I would suggest using this OS which is made to be a media center.
Raspberry Pi 3
Raspberry Pi Camera Module V2
5V 2.5A Power Supply so you have enough power to run the Pi and camera.
Micro SD card for uploading the Octoprint image and storing files.
Beyond that the only other things you may need (and are recommended) are a mouse, keyboard, a mini HDMI to HDMI cable or adapter, and a monitor to plug it into (TV with HDMI works). These will come in handy if you need to troubleshoot things or want to do other things with your Pi.
EDIT - oh yeah you'll also need to add a micro USB to USB cable or adapter to plug the Pi into the printer's controller.
Solely between the two, I would say get the first one (5.25v, 2.4A). The raspi is very sensitive to small fluctuations in power, so I recommend a power supply with a ferrite bead (the thick cylindrical thing on this cable)
Here's the power supply I've been using for the past few months (amazon). If you're not getting a starter kit, I'd recommend this as your power supply.
This $43 kit is a link to a <$50 "bare essentials kit" on amazon. My reddit secret Santa actually sent me this kit last week: no complaints(:
this $50 kit is the same as the above, but includes a case
Canakit pie 3 power supply
5V 2.5A. Basically there are very few chargers (that unwitting folks use for pie power cords) that offer 2.5 amps. I was one. Checked around the house and I didn't have 1 that met the spec. outlet to USB chargers were rated for .5A - 1A. My Samsung Galaxy S7 was 2A. Quite surprising. Run at the right spec and issues melt away. Also don't be too far away and try disabling the Pie's wifi. Have fun with 0 lag.
Get the official one
I have used, overclocked, abused, and gamed with every Pi ever released
I always use the official one and have no power issues
https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Listed/dp/B00MARDJZ4
Separately, though the power supply was from CanaKit. I didn't measure the temperature when running N64 games though. It seemed to be doing okay.
To be specific, I got this case, and this motherboard, and this power supply, and this SD card.
The heatsinks are pretty cheap though. $5 for a set of 3.
That's what I was starting to think. Should I get this one?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MARDJZ4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A30ZYR2W3VAJ0A