I think EA has now fallen into one of the most common pitfalls of F2P games: They're targeting whales. People for whom spending $1000 on anything means so little to them that they don't care. Management looks at their sales numbers, sees that they do make a lot of money off the expensive stuff, and keep making more expensive stuff.

Problem is, it's a very short term mindset. When the regulars see how impossible it is to keep up, they leave until the only people left are the whales, and when the whales have nobody to brag to or play with, they'll eventually leave too. The fewer people that are playing, the less attention the game gets, the harder it is to replace players who quit.

With this game specifically, that scenario could be very bad for EA because Disney is licensing out the Star Wars brand for both profit and publicity. If it's generating negative attention or being used for for games that are being ignored, EA risks losing it when their contract is up for renewal.

Vote with your wallets. See a F2P game that has abusive pricing practices? Go play something else. It's not really much different than those insanely priced HDMI cables. The people who do buy are never going to be talked out of it.

Sony MDR-7506

They've been a standard for professional audio engineers for decades for good reason - and they only cost $79.99 on Amazon.

I've had mine since the mid-90s and have traveled around the country with them crammed in a backpack and they have held up like a champion. I keep saying I'll replace them with the same model if they ever die, but they just keep working.... The only issue is that the ear pad covering wears away over time, but this is easily fixed by purchasing BeyerDynamic velour pads. These pads are super comfy, and well worth the $23. They're not just a replacement for the original, they are an upgrade.

Oh man. Brace yourselves, I am a total Amazon junkie. (Note: These may not all be BIFL, but I'm responding to the OP in specific.)

• $9 butter keeper. (I bought a slightly different one that's no longer available, but it's the same basic design.) Keeping butter that isn't for cooking or baking in the fridge is for chumps. Mine is always perfectly spreadable room temperature while staying fresh for weeks... sometimes months.
  
  
• $9 TV antenna. I didn't own a TV until a few years ago, and it didn't have a built-in antenna. I don't watch much broadcast TV, so I grabbed the cheapest one I could find. Case in point for why digital is better than analog, this one picks up every digital channel perfectly.
  
  
• $13 shoe rack (now $18). Over the past year of living in this flat, I'd developed a bad tendency of kicking my shoes off at the bottom of the stairs just inside the front door. This looked like a cheap piece of shit, but I figured for the price I couldn't go wrong. Now almost every single pair of shoes I own is in one spot where it's easy to grab—and, more importantly, everything's out of the way of people coming in and out of the house.
  
  
• $14 jug of earplugs (50 pair). Essential for sleeping with the window open in loud neighborhoods, sharing rooms with snoring friends on a trip, or sharing beds with snoring dudes or gals you're sleeping with. These were also my go-to earplugs for shows until I got a pair that's better for listening to music.
  
  
• $22 electric kettle. The coffeemaker in our office puts out water that isn't nearly hot enough for a proper cuppa, and I got sick of microwaving it to boiling a mug's worth at a time. No bells and whistles, but it's performed perfectly since day one, with no breaking-in period like you get with kettles that have plastic parts in contact with the water.
  
  
• $32 32'/10m HDMI cable. Ran it between the computer in my bedroom and the TV in my living room, allowing me to watch all kinds of streaming TV and downloaded videos with friends in a spot more comfortable than standing in front of my desk.
  
  
• Slightly over the $50 limit, but $53 space heater. My best friend and roommate is one of those dudes who's built like a furnace, and our place uses radiators for heat. We had a few days of him sweating his ass off even with the thermostat set to 68, before I realized that we could just turn it way the hell down, and I could heat my own bedroom separately. This sucker dumps out a ton of heat, with a slew of features to sweeten the deal (my favorite being the remote control).
  
  
• Another that's slightly over, but $55 garment steamer. Collapses small enough to fit pretty much anywhere I've ever needed to store it, puts out steam within maybe 30 seconds of turning it on, and with a full tank has enough water to steam as many items as I've ever needed to do in a row. I haven't touched my iron once since I bought this thing, and my only regret is not buying one as soon as I started college over a decade ago.
  
  And, saving the best for last:
  
  
• $43 heated footrest. Hands-down, this is one of the best things I've ever bought in my life. I was looking for an unobtrusive, unobnoxious way to help myself stay warm in the office, which tends to be chillier than my taste year-round. When I opened it up, I was skeptical, since it looked like a cheap injection-molded piece of shit. Now, I'm pretty sure I'd rescue it from a fire before my mother. I don't want to imagine ever trying to get through another winter without it.
  
  ----------
  
  EDIT: As requested by /u/Mogrix, I posted List Part II: Electric Boogaloo, with more items from my Amazon history.

I'm going to take this in the opposite direction.

ALWAYS buy a cheap HDMI cable. They work just as well as the $200 Monster cables.

Edit: I cringed.

Great gift! Does it have to be Best Buy? You can often do better elsewhere or even better used.

Stereo Receiver or for music and movies/TV, an AV receiver with HDMI connections.

Then add Speaker Wire or Basic and 4 Ways to Strip Wire - wikiHow.

Home Audio Guides: Intro to home stereo systems • Zeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videos • r/audiophile Guide to Home Audio • Speaker Placement for Stereo Music Listening

Home Theater Guides: r/HTBuyingGuides FAQ • How to Set Up a Basic Home Theater System - Lifewire • How to Set Up Your Home Theater Receiver • Speaker Placement for Home Theater • TV vertically centered at eye level while seated • r/hometheater

You should have bought a better HDMI cable.

Even better, there's a $2700 one, from everyone's favourite, AudioQuest. Better still, it has some add-on ethernet thing if you ever want to...I don't know, host a LAN party with your bluray player or something? *has no clue*

Yo guys, Steam link is $19.99 right now on Amazon if anyone's interested!!

I think the deal will end within 24 hours so be quick - saw it on the "today's deals" section.

I just placed my order (with a bunch of other stuff). Can't wait :D

DEAL IS STILL LIVE JUST SELECT AMAZON AS A SELLER https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B016XBGWAQ/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all

Lowest price ever, usually goes for $20

https://np.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/search?q=steam+link&sort=new&restrict_sr=on&t=all

Edit: Game UK also has the same price with cheaper international shipping than Amazon!

http://www.game.co.uk/en/steam-link-816924

$1000, that's cute. https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

Five feet of speaker wire is not as much as it sounds and 8ga is serious overkill for that setup. You can get terminated speaker wire or an entire spool for not much more. You will hear no difference with 16ga wire and you get so much more.

This just happened to me too. I simply went on to amazon and ordered a Mohu Leaf for $35 from the warehouse deals.

http://www.amazon.com/Mohu-Leaf-Paper-Thin-Indoor-Antenna/dp/B004QK7HI8

It picked up like 50 channels here. Best thing I purchased in a long time.

Diamond edition

People already linked the other two $150 stereo receivers from Best Buy but there's also this one that you should be able to price match to Amazon for $130 (or just buy it from Amazon).

If you don't want a gigantic amplifier I also recommend the Topping MX3 for $94 at Amazon.

You're also going to need some speaker wire which is probably overpriced at Best Buy and some type of cable to get sound from your computer to an AV receiver if you don't want to use bluetooth.

ATH-M50S with velour DT250/280 pads

This pic shows the difference for anyone looking to do the "mod"

http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/product-gallery/B0016MF7W2/ref=cm_ciu_pdp_images_3?ie=UTF8&index=3&isremote=0

I also own a pair of these and if you want them to be comfortable you may have to grab some $20 velour pads. I have these as well and they make it far more comfortable to wear. I literally have these on for 8 hours after playing Civ and besides them being a little warm (Florida) they're super comfy.

You mean this isn't a good buy??

Also FYI for anyone who is looking into getting a Steam Link, it is currently on sale for $20.00 on amazon.

I was on the fence but decided to pick one up today :)

One of these bad boys

Not just Brick & Mortar.

This one.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Elevation-Lab-Anchor-Under-Desk-Headphone/dp/B00P31BMHG/

I love it, keeps my headset within reach but out of the way.

Pssh...that's still small time. Those guys need to get on AudioQuest's level: https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

Sorry to hear that, hopefully though you're on the road to recovery.

So two options you have...

1. Use a controller with a 3.5mm headphone jack and plug speakers or headphone into that, or if it doesn't have that the Microsoft Stereo Headset Adapter, plug speakers/headset into that and the adapter into the controller
   
   
2. Buy a DAC, plug the optical/TOSLINK into the DAC and the other end into the SPDIF port on the back of the Xbox One, power the DAC using the USB port on the Xbox One and then plug your headphones/speakers into the 3.5mm port on the DAC. By DAC I mean something like this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/PROZOR-Digital-Toslink-Analog-Converter-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462798176&sr=8-2&keywords=dac

Absolutely, and you can even get it for $20 today in the US from Amazon

100 euro power cable? seems legit

at least its not a 1000 dollar HDMI cable

Ok, maybe not amazons basics but you can acquire a cable which...somehow someone will buy.

Behold, beyond your wildest dreams does the ultimate ripoff exist


____

BUT WAIT

Could it possibly get any worse? YES

Same goes for the Steam Link (but they are temporarily OOS):

http://smile.amazon.com/Steam-Link-Pc/dp/B016XBGWAQ/

It's got nothing on this

You mean the Diamond HDMI cable that I paid nearly $1,500 for is almost exactly the same as one I could pick up for $5???

I can't believe people would just go on the internet and deceive others in order to sell their overpriced product! /s

Joking aside, I feel bad for people who don't know this and spend any more than $10 on an HDMI cable.

These get much more comfortable when you throw a pair of new pads on them. I went with these.

A link for the lazy.

Might has well just punch your TV, rather than insult it with such low quality cables. If you aren't using THESE, than you don't deserve to use a TV!

That looks like the leaf. I tried it in my place but couldn't really get good reception. Well done OP.

Acxtually I think you'd want this guy

What you linked to is for watching one feed on two tv's.

The reviews are solid gold

Shit, even $50 cables are too risky for me. That's why I get the AudioQuest Diamond Braided HDMI Cable.

Monster cables are rookies with their $100 cables. I think you mean audioquest, makers of the $1500 HDMI cable.

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

unless you buy this badboy

Unless it was this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003CT2A2M?pc_redir=1406538610&robot_redir=1

dont forget this

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2FJF1RRE0QUS4&keywords=diamond+hdmi+cable&qid=1558727011&s=gateway&sprefix=diamond+hd%2Caps%2C198&sr=8-3

Wouldnt wanna sacrifice any quality..

Maybe a braided mat of these?

Hahahaha dirty peasant,

My [diamond coated HDMI Cable] (http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Ethernet-Connection-meters/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376520150&sr=8-2&keywords=diamond+hdmi) has greatly enhanced my tv experience! It's amazing how vivid the picture looks. I mean it's so crystal clear that I actually jumped into my tv like mario does in Super mario 64. Next thing you know im in the middle of the Gobi desert being chased by Mongolian death worms. Luckily I managed to catch a breath of air and called out to my Diamond HDMI Cable. The cable in all it's magnificent Diamond Coated glory killed the Death worms with ease and pulled me out of the tv and back into my living room. I'm telling you these cables are worth it, I can't wait for Call of Puppies, I mean call of duty ghost to come out. Then I can finally live my dream of running around with a bunch of dogs, shooting down terrorist.

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Well, we got the diamond half down.

35€ sind übrigens nix:

https://www.amazon.de/audioquest-chocolate-HDMI-Kabel-Länge/dp/B0034HSVXY

https://www.amazon.de/Audioquest-Diamond-HDMI-Kabel-Meter/dp/B003CT2A6I

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-211566803-Replacement-Single-Headphones/dp/B001DFX2OC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1422645236&sr=8-3&keywords=mdr-v6+replacement+pads&pebp=1422645255579&peasin=B001DFX2OC

or if you want to get fancy, these are pretty comfy too:

http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-EDT250V-Headphone-Pads-Black/dp/B0016MF7W2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1422645248&sr=8-2&keywords=mdr-v6+replacement+pads&pebp=1422645316011&peasin=B0016MF7W2

Quick note, that DVI-D to Display port won't do 144hz. You need https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Dual-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY or some other active powered adapter. They're usually 100 bucks or so. I was considering getting one because I had the same problem as you but I just bit the bullet and bought a new monitor.

I got the Mohu a few years back. I really like it.

Mohu Leaf

I've always liked this product.

I started with just a few things and then listed everything I see... sorry for the spam
(these are all things I have, feel free to ask any Q's)


- Mini Fridge - https://www.amazon.com/Danby-DAR026A1BDD-3-Designer-Refrigerator-2-6-Cubic/dp/B00MO6V96W/ref=sr_1_8?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1519347546&sr=1-8&keywords=mini+fridge


- Cup - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUBR8UH/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Air Cleaner - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BI4UQK0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Good Chair Mat - https://www.amazon.com/Black-Chair-Mat-Rectanglular-ABS-RC-4655/dp/B00D83MURM/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_229_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CMJS2EM6STF7XCCJZGWZ&dpID=51%252BWDnIRG0L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail


- Big Boy Ergo Chair - https://www.ergoexperts.com/collections/ergonomic-chairs/products/office-master-iu79hd-24-7-intensive-use-heavy-duty-high-back-ergonomic-task-chair


- Camera Mount - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CMLX1O2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Space Heater - https://www.amazon.com/Lasko-Ceramic-Heater-Remote-Control/dp/B00PYDGN18/ref=sr_1_17?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1519348189&sr=1-17&keywords=lasko+space+heater


- LED Lights - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LX9Z3LH/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Foot Rest - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EN9W3UY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Wrist Rest - https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=node%3D510182&field-keywords=lasko+space+heater&rh=n%3A1055398%2Cn%3A3206324011%2Cn%3A9425950011%2Cn%3A510182%2Ck%3Alasko+space+heater


- Underdesk Headphone hanger - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P31BMHG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Trash Can - https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Commercial-295700GY-Wastebasket-Rectangular/dp/B079WPRXXS/ref=sr_1_26?ie=UTF8&qid=1519348333&sr=8-26&keywords=trash+can


- Cat Bed - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJRCQBW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Keyboard - https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2164


- Keycaps - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/PBT-Backlit-Keycaps-109-Keyset-Top-Printed-Cherry-MX-Key-Caps-For-Tenkeyless-87-104-108/32842167507.html?src=google&albslr=220105582&isdl=y&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&source=%7Bifdyn:dyn%7D%7Bifpla:pla%7D%7Bifdbm:DBM&albch=DID%7D&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=708-803-3821&isdl=y&albcp=653478879&albag=34653160498&slnk=&trgt=75384829977&plac=&crea=en32842167507&netw=g&device=c&mtctp=&gclid=CjwKCAiA8bnUBRA-EiwAc0hZk62T3uqIKPVAUNx-ATVUQIzI8kscvB4UdNBR5dMpZ46l1gp9aoD38BoCNXQQAvD_BwE


- Mouse - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JPOLLTK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Mouse Mat - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0745N6CMD/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Headphones - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R99S14/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
& https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008POFOHM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Dac/Amp - https://www.jdslabs.com/products/48/objective2-odac-combo-revb/


- Speakers - https://emotiva.com/products/airmotiv-6s


- Subwoofer - http://www.outlawaudio.com/products/m8.html


- Mic - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KCN83VI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Mic Interface - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012MIVUQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Boom Arm - https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1194415-REG/o_c_white_ulp_mb_proboom_ultima_lp_adjustable.html?sts=pi


- Web Cam Alternative - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G9EYN26/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Lens - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDGB94S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- PC Cam Interface - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4SM7H6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Lights Boxes - https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Digital-Photography-Fluorescent-AGG883/dp/B0091HO1FS/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519348726&sr=1-10&keywords=16%22+x+24%22++soft+box


- Light Box Stands & Clamp - https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1327281-REG/ultimate_support_17637_jamstands_fixed_length_boom.html
& https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010CYHW4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Light Bulbs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IB8O2VU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'll make a list of stuff you need. For the best "bang for your buck" in the $200ish price range.

-----------------------------------------

Speaker wire. Amazon Basics makes great stuff. If you want, you can get 100 feet of it for an extra $2 I think. You can get those monoprice banana plugs if you want. They just help if you're going to be switching speakers around a lot.

Simple wire stripper. Should work just fine.

Cable to plug it in. That'll just plug the amp into a computer. And that cable is amazing quality. For real. I don't know what it is about it, but the moment I touched that cable I knew it was special. This isn't a joke either. You'll understand when you get one. Trust me.

50 watt per channel amp. This thing will be more than enough. I just like it because it is open box, so cheap. The same one new on amazon is $65. If you want to order from amazon, you can just get the smsl sa-36a. Same amp, just 20 watts per channel. Which, again, is plenty.

[Here's that cheaper smsl amp] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017W13OR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_U2NSBbTRHGFS5). I've got a few of them. They're great. This is what I'd go for if the other one is sold out.

Cheap but good little amp. I don't have one of these because I'm not a fan of the looks, but they get great reviews and a lot of people really like them.

---------------

Speakers:

Miccas. These things are nice for that price. In this price range, you really won't be getting anything better unless you go DIY.

Fluance SX6. These guys are big, but they throw a good amount of sound and some pretty deep bass for a pair of bookshelf speakers. Careful, they're pretty big.

Pioneer. These things are decent, but I think the Fluances would be better for this price. The SX6s throw more bass, which is good if you're not getting a sub. However, these are smaller.

Fluance signature series. I know, you said your budget is only $200, but you said if you need to spend more, then you will. These will sound better than all of the other speakers linked, however, that's not why they're here. I put them here for two reasons. The first is that they're front ported. Most people that are new to speakers might put them up against a wall or close to it, not understanding that the port needs some room to breathe. These have front ports so that's not a problem. The second reason, just look at them. If you really care about looks, these ones are the ones. They're beautiful. (My opinion obviously).

Oof almost forgot. Pleaae don't place the speakers directly on your desk.

--------------------------------

That's a lot. I'll sum it up with my opinion and why.

Amp: smsl sa36a. For close range, you don't need anything with more power. This thing will do whatever you need for bookshelf speakers.

Speakers: micca mb42x. Why? Here's why: for this price range, you won't notice a huge difference in any speakers, unless you get some bad ones. So, get the cheapest ones you can. Later on, if you can afford to upgrade them, you'll probably want to do that. Then you'll have a pair of $80 speakers that you don't need rather than a pair of 130 speakers that you don't need. Another reason I would pick the miccas is because they punch above their price range. Most people say they sound more like a pair of $125 speakers rather than a pair of $80 speakers. So, for real, they're good. Also, they're the smallest of the bunch.

Or, build a pair of C Notes and get something way better than any of these.

Hope this helps!

at a minimum you are definitely going to want something like this

AudioQuest Diamond 1m (3.2 feet) Braided HDMI Cable

Same price on Amazon in case you don't want to deal with GameStop.

Pretty typical sale price for this, so don't think you need to jump on it immediately if you're on the fence. We'll see this price again.

That HDMI cable is shit. Get this one instead: http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M/

You can get 4D with this cable.

KEF Q100 ($250)

Micca AD250 DAC/Amp ($100)

Micca speaker wire ($20)

Dayton SUB-1000 ($120)

3.5mm to RCA cable (for sub) ($8)

Total: $498

This would be a solid, solid setup for really fantastic value.

https://www.amazon.ca/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y

I love that they auto swap input. Genius

You don't need an outdoor antenna unless you're in a very rural area. Most indoor antennas will pick up stations within 40-50 miles. I just got one and I can get stations in RI and NH. Boston broadcasters are rock solid and I'm actually thinking of dropping cable.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QK7HI8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Topically relevant. Check the reviews.

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ

Thats a VGA female to DVI male adaptor. You can get them at just about any electronics store. Here's one on amazon.

The 0's are OK, but after many copies, some of the 1's may start losing fidelity, so they become 0.9, then 0.8 and so on. Past a certain point the playback software will not be able to discern that from a 0, and will have to interpolate from neighboring pixels. The interpolation process will lower the resolution so the original 1080p will start looking like 720p.

You can keep the bits fresh by using ethernet cable from reputable manufactures such as Denon.

https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AKDL1-Dedicated-/dp/B000I1X6PM

Unfortunately they stopped making it so our videos are doomed to lose their 1's eventually.

But you can compensate for that by playing back the videos over a high-quality HDMI cable.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

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My god, $7,000? I could buy five HDMI cables for that!

When you're feeling the inevitable buyer's remorse, just remind the people laughing at you that it was endorsed by Sylvester Stallone. Probably won't help, but worth a try.

I prefer the $2,694.75 one...

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top you mean this one? I hope it raises my children too, for that price!

The three channel you listed are just standard over-the-air "network tv" channels. You can pick those up with an antenna for free. I think they're actually pretty damn good HD quality these days.

I've heard the "leaf" antennas are good: http://www.amazon.com/Mohu-MH-110583-Antenna-Premium-Connectors/dp/B004QK7HI8

You can go crazy and get huge outdoor antennas, but I don't think most people need those. /r/cordcutters and /r/ota should have some pretty decent info you can search up.

This is the cable you want to get to replace it.

Is this a good deal? AudioQuest Diamond 1m (3.2 feet) Braided HDMI Cable - $1,094.75

> you get what you pay for.

You might be interested in this hdmi cable then

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT08E4/

The quality of the 0 and 1s that comes out of it is simply breathtaking.

Fuggin pleb, you can't handle my HDMI cable.

For me, and I completely understand that this is a full throttle first world problem, it's about clutter and inputs. I already have 4 HDMI devices "connected" to a 3 HDMI input TV - and have to go pull cords when I want to use the extra one. A 5th would just add to that annoyance. That plus, more controllers I'd have to have laying around, more TV cabinet space I'd need to have to fit both devices... I understand these aren't deal breaking obstacles, but it would be nice to just replace one system with another and that be that.

Edit: took everyone's advice and got a switch. Just arrived: http://i.imgur.com/aDvMzUD.jpg

Here's the details of what I went with, for anyone curious:
Kinivo 501BN Premium 5 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p
http://amzn.com/B0049SCB2Y

Also applies to the Steam Link.

Nah you've gotta go Diamond! https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495904263&sr=8-4&keywords=diamond+hdmi

Couldn't really find what I was looking for specifically, so I scoured a few subs and saw numerous suggestions. Ended up purchasing the following items:

Dayton Speakers

Lepy Amp

RCA to AUX

Polk Subwoofer

Speaker Wire

Super happy with these purchases. All in all it costed just about 200 bucks. For me, it's all I will ever need. Crisp sounds and heavy bass when I want it. Would consider shelling out for a better amp, but the amp provided should be sufficient if you aren't blasting your music.

Additionally, if you do plan on doing an audio set up of this nature, use this image to guide you. Also note that the DAC in the image would be your RCA to AUX if you were to use the set up I posted. If you have any questions feel free to ask.

Your best option is to plug directly into your receiver if it has an HDMI port. If it does but they are full, you can get an external switch to change sources, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XUQU/. If neither of those options work, an audio extractor is your next option, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIQER0E/. This will still output HDMI video, but also send the digital audio out an optical port so you still get surround sound, though you will probably get a few milliseconds of lag, probably nothing too noticeable. In the magical event you don't even have optical, it still has stereo outputs which, for music, will be just fine.

This 1000x over.

I could never truly appreciate the pimples on the crack whore's ass in my favorite porn until I bought a set of these

What bout [40 bucks] (http://www.amazon.com/Mohu-Leaf-Paper-Thin-Indoor-Antenna/dp/B004QK7HI8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420415414&sr=8-2&keywords=mohu+leaf)?

Give me about an hour and I'll edit this comment with store links to what I got.

Edit: Here is the list

1. Receiver/Amp This is very basic and will only support the bookshelf speakers themselves. If you want to add a sub or center, your going to need a full on stereo receiver. WARNING - when plugging in the banana plugs into this receiver, i had to force them in a bit to make them stay in. I thought I broke it, but my friend who recommended me this receiver said thats how his is too. so if the banana plugs go in weird, its ok :).
   
   
2. Audio to RCA adapter. This is the wire to hook up to your PC. This could vary per setup. My setup goes from speakers to receiver, then receiver to PC with this cable. You could use RCA to optical cable as well. You have to make sure that if your PC is hooked up to your TV or monitor via HDMI to change the Audio input from hdmi to speakers.
   
   
3. Speaker wire This is how you connect the speakers to the receiver. and the best way to do that is with banana plugs
   
   
4. Bananna Plugs - Any kind will do and each banana plug hooks up to the wire differently. Some come with instructions, others you might have to google. I had to look at amazon reviews to see how mine worked.
   
   Total - about 40 - 50 depending on where you get your stuff.

Get an Audio Technica AT-LP60 + an amplifier + speakers + speaker wire. That's what I have and it cost me less than $180. Here's the Amazon links for everything I have:

Record player

Speakers

Pre-amp

Speaker wire

STAY AWAY FROM CROSLEYS OR ANYTHING WITH BUILT IN SPEAKERS. DO NOT BUY A RECORD PLAYER UNDER $80. IT'S WORTH IT TO SPEND THE EXTRA MONEY AND GET A SETUP THAT WILL SOUND NICE AND WON'T DESTROY YOUR RECORDS. Can't stress that enough.

> Audioquest Type 2 quad cable

Attention people out there on the interwebs reading this... don't buy this stuff. This is the same company that sells a $850 3 foot HDMI cable.

You'd need an HDMI splitter to send the output from one Roku STB to both displays. One example is https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS

this baby: https://smile.amazon.com/Anchor-ORIGINAL-Under-Desk-Headphone-Stand/dp/B00P31BMHG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523683154&sr=8-1&keywords=the+anchor

Same price on Amazon if you want to avoid Steam's outrageous shipping.

Steam Link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016XBGWAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HOdoybG62B23J

Amazon.CA has it for 25.99 too....If you guys missed it at EBGames

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/

HDMI hub to the rescue! http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1374698119&sr=8-2&keywords=hdmi+hub

Hey, Question 6. OTA should be an option. If you only want to watch your local team's games, you don't need anything else. In this era of ridiculous numbers of channels and massive cable packages, sometimes a simple antenna is all you need. I hate that people don't even consider it an option anymore. Buy-in is literally $8.

I wouldn't take amazon's prices as the market prices.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

> like this one

What the actual fuck? I mean, it doesn't even have Solid HIGH-DENSITY POLYETHYLENE INSULATION

>* Audioquest :)

Idk, I traded my HD800s for this and audio has never been clearer on my 720p Insignia

You can use that gift card to ALMOST purchase a suitable HDMI cable.

Sorry, but you're going to have to expand your budget

https://www.amazon.com/Steam-Link-pc/dp/B016XBGWAQ

http://store.steampowered.com/app/353380/Steam_Link/

Streams your PC to your TV, and has ports for controllers. Just make sure you wire it to your router with an ethernet and to your TV with an HDMI for no latency issues. Also make sure your TV is set to Gaming or PC mode.

Its also $19.99 on Amazon.

How about a $1,500 one?

If you want to use the center channel you’ll need more than a basic 2-channel amp - you’ll need a home theater receiver. Any old 5.1 system will do. You should be able to get them used for well under $100. Their main downside is their size.

You’ll also need speaker cables - 16 gauge is fine unless you want to run them over 15-20 feet or so, then 14 ga may be an improvement.

Then run an aux cord from the PC sound out to auxiliary input on the receiver. You may need an adapter like this to go from 3.5mm to RCA inputs (or something that does a similar job).

No special audio interface needed if you’re not doing surround sound. Stereo input for the left/right/center channel is fine.

Stay away from your second link, I got one of those and had trouble with it. I ran my PS3 through it and it would "black out" for a second or two every few minutes. Made gaming a pain in the ass. I attributed it to the fact that it leached power from the HDMI and didn't actually have a power pack. If that was indeed the case I would be cautions of the first option as well.

I ended up replacing mine with this and it has been working flawlessly.

We've been without cable for years. Between Netflix, Hulu, a decent HDTV antenna and torrents, I don't think we miss a thing. Sure, we may have to wait until tomorrow to see it, but we DVRed everything and watched it later anyway. If you can do without random flipping, go for it!

option 1. get a fancy stereo that has HDMI passthough. you plug the CC into the stereo.

option 2. get a fancy doohickey - an hdmi audio extractor

option 3. run an audio cable out of the TV's headphone jack and into your stereo

Thanks. It's a headphone anchor.
http://www.amazon.com/Anchor-Under-Desk-Headphone-Stand-Mount/dp/B00P31BMHG

I've had my Sony MDR7506s for over 12 years and they are still going strong. You can replace the pads with higher quality ones

http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-Velour-Earcushions-MDR7506-Headphones/dp/B0016MF7W2

You can thank me in advance

If you don't mind spending more money on different parts for these headphones, these earpad and headband replacements are fantastic.

Not sure if troll...but he linked to Amazon UK. You can buy it here if you live in the U.S.

$14.99 on Amazon right now.

Steam Link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016XBGWAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jNX-zbJWASTTA

They're on sale right now.. $19.99 and $34.99. Free shipping on amazon. No one is going to under cut that here.

https://www.amazon.com/Steam-Link/dp/B016XBGWAQ/

Steam Link is also $19.99.

EDIT: For Amazon Prime users only. Whelp - time for that free trial.

Get away from me, you filthy casual.

Make sure you blast your MIDIs through a high quality HDMI cable like this or this. Otherwise, they will just sound like shit and you also don't want people to think you're poor.

When I got this cable, it came wrapped in bacon, which I thought was pretty weird, but shrugged it off, slid off my recliner into my Rascal, scooted from the living room to the kitchenette, and started cooking my bacon-wrapping.

As the smell of delicious pork back filled my double-wide, I turned around to look again at the box the cable came in.

Could this be? Yes! It was a "3 wolves barking at the moon shirt" and even better, it fit me perfectly (I wear an XXXXL).

So I yumplugged (get it, yum because of the bacon?) the crappy coax and component cables from my TV, and slapped in the HDMI golden cable between the visio and the blu-ray.

I was completely unprepared for what would turn out to be the best day ever.

I dusted off my....oh who am I kidding...I was already watching my "Mama's Family: season 1" Blu Ray (disc one). The magic began...

Once Vicki Lawrence appeared on screen, she broke character AND the fourth wall. She, and the rest of the cast jumped OUT of my TV, and performed the episode on my living room floor!!!!

Screw 1080P! This is way better. I thought to myself that having a 12" real-life "mama's family" cast was awesome. I wondered what would happen if I had a bigger TV...

Or better yet, used this cable to plug it into that giant TV screen they have at Cowboys Stadium!

Anyway, I was in for a further treat when I was watching a Betty White episode. Oh MAN!!! Could life get better?

I spoke too soon...

After enjoying some drinks with the mini-cast of "Mama's family" (my own mama left me all her Hooch in the will), we threw on the TV. I turned it on to family guy, and the same thing happened.

I was able to punch that Jesus-hating Peter Griffin and that smart-assed dog in their sacrilegious faces. Mini-Betty White even did a pile driver to Stewie.

MacGyver came on, and we all were in 7th heaven (and when 7th Heaven came on, it was EVEN Better).

I could go on and on about my day, but i'm gonna stop here. BUY THIS CABLE.

It could easily be the best $2594.75 you ever spend...

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/product-reviews/B003CT2A6I/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

For indoor antenna its hard to beat the Mohu Leaf Paper-Thin Indoor HDTV Antenna.

Its about $40 on Amazon and provides the best quality reception of any indoor antenna I have had. (Some channels depend on your line of sight, particularly PIX for some odd reason).

EDIT: Amazon link http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QK7HI8/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You need an antenna.

Boston should have some great channels if you're near the city. Enjoy.

I originally did this install back in the day when these were first popping up and down, major credit goes to /u/zedix as I'm pretty sure he was the first one on Nasioc to start this whole trend for Subarus.

My first installation used a head unit that was tucked away behind everything. However the weak pre-amp, and the constant loss of settings (disconnecting battery), and lack on Steering Wheel controls really got annoying. So I set out on this Version 2 project.

*96svx.dc - David was an amazing resource with getting the required harnesses for an 08+, as my car came with a 24pin + 12pin adapter (premium nav) it was very hard to find 2 reverse harnesses that would make this install doable.**

• 2012 Nexus 7 - 1st gen
  
• Timur's USB ROM - in FI mode
  
• Typical Apps...
  
  
• Joycon CPJexr(CarPc Joycon Exr), converts steering wheel input into Keyboard strokes recognizable by the tablet. LINK
  
• Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 - 300watt amp with Molex input/output LINK
  
• USB Dual 80mm Fans with protective grill - LINK
  
• 3.5mm inline to RCA (dual channel) - LINK
  
• FiiO E10 USB DAC LINK
  
• Amazon USB hubs, cheap and easy to hack into - LINK
  
• Monoprice USB Extension Cables - LINK
  
• SanDisk Cruzer Fit 32GB - Stores Music - LINK
  
• Monoprice Micro USB OTG Adapter - LINK
  
• USB Y-Power adapter
  
• JDM 2-tone AV panel
  
• 12v to 5v DC/DC converters (You will need a couple of these, as they are from China they might be DoA)
  
• Other various adapters, and 14 ga wire for all of this to work..
  
  I created a double din sized Acrylic box from 1/4" sheets cut to size by a local shop... Here are the outer dimensions if you are interested in making a similar box to hold all of this.
  
  
• [OD] - 4" x 7" x 5.75"
  
• [x 1] - 4" x 7"
  
• [x 2] - 6.5" x 5.5"
  
• [x 2] - 4" x 5.5"
  
  Hardest part out of the whole install was coming up with the wiring scheme, as all of this is fed off of 12v ignition. The tablet needed to be able to charge, and the USB hub needed to receive power separate from the OTG y-splitter. I simply spliced into the cheap-o USB hubs and made my own DIY 5v USB hubs.
  
  
  
  
  

To build a system using the minimum recommendations from this sub, let's start with this diagram: http://i.imgur.com/Z8FMJ.png
DAC is optional, so is a subwoofer but I recommend one.

DAC: Behringer UCA202 $29.99 Link: http://amzn.com/B000KW2YEI

Amplifier: SMSL SA-50 $68.99 Link: http://amzn.com/B00F0H8TOC

Subwoofer: Dayton Audio SUB-800 $99.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B0063NU30K

Bookshelf Speakers: Micca MB42X $89.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B00E7H8GG2

Wire: 16-gauge Speaker Wire $8.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B006LW0WDQ

With DAC, this cable: Stereo Male to 2 RCA Male $5 Link: http://amzn.com/B00I0HPK6O

Without DAC, this cable: Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male $5 Link: http://amzn.com/B0094A1F3S

This is a great starter system, I would have loved to had something like this starting out.
All of these pieces can be upgraded, do your research. Look for sales etc. Good luck and have fun.

Switch out the earpads. This is a common complaint with basic pleather earpads. They may be comfy and form-fitting but they don't breathe enough for some people (myself included).

An amazon customer image shows those Panasonic pads swapped out with Beyerdynamic 250 Velour replacement pads.

I just did the same "mod" with my Monoprice 8323s because the only thing $30 about those cans is the earpad material. Much nicer now with the velour. The $25 is a bit much for earpads as they're not as nice material as say the Beyerdynamic DT880's velour earpads but they definitely do the trick for me.

Convert the optical to analog.

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/

and maybe this... but a splitter would work too.

https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3/

I don't know of a way to auto turn off the soundbar when you get sound.

However; you may get AV lag/sync issues when trying to convert to analog.

An HDMI audio extractor might be helpful here. https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E

i'm using a monitor too. i bought a J-tech hdmi audio extractor from amazon. plug in the WiiU hdmi to it and use a coax or optical to the sound system.
i've since bought a new receiver with HDMI inputs but this thing worked pretty well.

This is the type of adapter you need. You can get them for less than $10 in the states.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00IM36VU0/ref=s9_simh_gw_p107_d2_i10?pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=J5Y3VHWE73B953DQVC8W&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=b06971ce-9992-44c1-9ee0-eb9792e71b5e&pf_rd_i=desktop

"The Anchor" headphone hook. I own this. It's 2 years and running strong, I love it.

I advocate using component bookshelves speakers with a mini amp unless space is at a big premium. They are better engineered, have better bang for your buck, and have a much cleaner sound.

You have the added bonus that the speakers are more flexible for other uses and, if you wanted to go from 2.0 to something else, it's a pretty easy upgrade, ala: you don't have to pitch the old system and get something new. I think you'd find a good 2.0 system to be much more impressive than a lot of the gamer sound systems out there.

Polk Audio T15 Bookshelf Speakers

Dayton Audio DTA-1 Digital Amplifier

Amazon Basics Speaker Cable

Another note: A system like this will sound way fuller without a boominess that you'd get from most gaming 2.1 sound systems. All of my friends that I have recommended go this route have loved it!

A hdmi switch like this or this will fix that issue.

An HDMI input switcher is only, like, $10 extra.. e.g. http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-HDMI-Switcher-Support/dp/B00B46XUQU

Just upgraded from my ATH-M50s. Well not price wise, but imo, soundwise.

I bought them for $50 off Newegg on Sale. Incase you haven't figured it out yet, they are the Phillips SHP-9500s.
__

First impressions:



Comfort:

• These things are super light and comfortable. Compared to my M50s, the clamp force is much lighter, and I don't get fatigued as quick from the clamp. Note that I replaced the earcups on my M50s with new earcups which definitely helped! But for $20 more, you could get the Phillips. After a bit you forget they're on your head.
  
  
• I find the earcups to be very comfortable, but the shape (Seal) maybe wraps a bit to wide for my tastes. I don't really mind it though and something I've gotten used to really quick, and maybe am starting to enjoy.
  
  
• They are a sweat magnet though, I will say that.
  
  ____
  
  Sound:
  
  
• Not going to go in depth with this, because many people have already said what needed to be said. But I will throw you some super quick impressions..
  
  Bass
  
  
• Bass is definitely not extreme or anything, but that's to be expected with opens. Honestly though, I really like the bass. I am not a bass head, and I think the bass on these are just right, it's clean, tight and sounds good.
  
  Midrange
  
  
• Mids sound great! Very smooth and detailed! Great for vocals in both female and male. Instruments sound great as well of course! Overall I really enjoy the mids on this. It's clean, detailed, relaxed.
  
  Trebel
  
  
• Trebel is very detailed, smooth, and crisp. Sometimes at higher volumes you can get a bit of sibilance, but not bad.
  
  Soundstage:
  
  
• I find the soundstage to be pretty good, not AMAZING, but compared to the m50s.. I find a definite improvement. Things sound more airy and open, and I find myself able to pinpoint instruments more clearly. As well as shots, footsteps, etc in games.
  
  _____
  
  Overall the sound is very good in my opinion.. especially considering the $50. It's an absolute steal if you ask me!
  
  __
  
  Notes: Remember these are openbacked headphones, so not really made for public use as everybody will be able to hear what you're listening to, as well as you be able to hear all the noise around you.
  
  This isn't really a con, because it's how they're made, and it's to be expected. So if you're looking for public use, you should not be looking for a pair of open backed headphones.
  
  ____
  
  Extra Information: The intergrated amp you are seeing is a Cambridge Audio Azur 640a v2. I use for my Vienna Acoustic Mozart Grand speakers. I use the headphone port for my headphones. The dac that it's being run through is a Fiio D3 (D03K).
  
  

Amazon does not appear to have any Steam Links of their own in stock, at least on the US Amazon site. All Steam Links for sale are from third parties.

If you can wait until they have stock you can choose Amazon.com (currently the 3rd listing, the one with Prime) here, https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B016XBGWAQ/, and it will ship for $15 when they have stock.

Here is a store page link that forces Amazon.com as well https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I love the look of the old rack systems. They may not have top of the line components but they still sound pretty good.

It looks like your setup was well taken care of! If I were you I would do the following:

• Before you play any records examine the stylus on the turntable tonearm and replace it if it looks worn or corroded. It looks like this is the stylus you need but you'll need to compare what's actually on your turntable before ordering
  
• Before you play any cassettes clean and demagnetize the cassette deck heads. A simple cotton swab and some rubbing alcohol on the head will clean it, and an inexpensive tape head demagnetizer is all you need. Here's a video guide on demagnetizing
  
• Get a Chromecast Audio and a 3.5mm to RCA cable so you can enjoy your tunes without the compression problems of Bluetooth.
  
• Get rid of the books and binders and other junk and fill up your shelves with records, cassettes, and CDs!

People in this sub don't think 3.5mm cables make much difference (we consider a lot of 'features' in a cable to be snake oil), but obviously aesthetics and basic functionality are awesome. Put simply, a lot of people are anti-AudioQuest.

Now, the cables you made look sick, and as long as they're not crazy expensive, people would love to buy one. I know some people would like cables with integrated mics as well.

I don't have much experience with parts, but Philmore and Neutrik make some nice components. I'm sure wherever you source your parts currently do a fine job with audio (as long as they have them!).

EDIT: I don't know if I should bother giving you advice since you do an amazing job as is, but having cables that would pair well with existing headphones with removable cables would help. V-Moda, Sennheiser Momentum, ATH-M50x's would be killer products to target. Also, if you have any experience with making headphone pads, that would be a good market too.

This one costs twice as much:

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_1

[but hdmi is rlly expensive] (http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Ethernet-Connection-meters/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8)

A splitter would not work in this situation. You need an active HDMI selector switch, tons of them on Amazon if you search for that. This one seems to be pretty popular: https://smile.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/

Here's the best way to handle this. I'm making assumptions that you have a smartphone and the RCA jacks in your car's armrest.

Get the following.

• a wired to bluetooth transmitter
  
• a usb car charge port
  
• 3.5mm to rca jack cable (as short as possible)
  
• a cd player mount for your phone
  
  Take the 3.5->RCA cord and plug the RCA ends into the aux jack inside the armrest. Put the USB charger in the 12v socket that's also in the armrest. Take the bluetooth transmitter plug in the power (with the supplied micro USB to normal USB cord) and plug in the 3.5 end of the RCA cord to the jack on the transmitter.
  
  Once the car is on and the transmitter is powered up, pair your phone to the transmitter per the instructions that came with it. After its paired, put all the wires and the transmitter in the armrest and forget about it. You'll never have to deal with it again unless something goes wrong.
  
  Now take the CD player car mount, and turn it so it's horizontal. Put your phone in it and adjust the sides to make sure it doesn't slide out. Switch your car audio system to AUX and leave it there. The only downside is you can't control the audio from the steering wheel. The only thing you can do is adjust the volume.
  
  Now you have an always updated nav system that has guidance and the ability to listen to all your music via the car stereo. I wouldn't try any other BT transmitter. It's the key to the whole deal and I know that one works. The rest of the stuff is universal and pretty generic. You may have some/most of them already. You can really shop around for the USB charger, RCA cable and CD player mount and get the cost down more. The whole setup should be around $75 or less.
  
  This is by far the most effective, economical way to get what you want. There isn't really a way to update or modernize the stock equipment outside of buying a new car. I'm pretty sure that's by design.
  

DVI-to-VGA

Rabbit Ears

$60? Where they on sale? They're $100 today =)

Personally I only buy these 'cause they're the best: https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

They're a little pricey at $4500 for 15', but you can't compromise on the transmission of your bits, amiright?

/s

From the compared $1k HDMI cable.

I think that is an out of stock price... This obscene thing is real🙁

Edit: Hold the phone! That price is now a bargain.

Audio quest indeed.

I recently added one - just to get Severe Weather alerts.

So I went for the cheapest.

Turns out the quality is fantastic (read a few reviews on it).

Recommended.

First, don't buy anything branded as an HDTV Antenna because it is marketing at it's finest. A 50 year old set of rabbit ears will work just fine. I am down near RIT and use some simple rabbit ears I got off of Amazon for $8 and I get all of the channels that are broadcast in the area with no connection issues. I've been using them for over a year and wouldn't go back to paying for cable since I rarely watch TV.

Also, go to the TV Guide site and then in the top left tell it your location and tell it you have an antenna and it will list the available channels and what's on.

No converter box. Any newer-ish TV doesn't need one. All I'm running is this directly to my TV and watching NBC in HD right now.

>http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

Guess what was in that cable's "customers Who Viewed This Item Also Viewed" section -> A Really Expensive Rock

:D :D Gotta love the customer Q & A section on that rock.

Here's the cable for it.

I used these [hybrid pads]
(https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Hybrid-Memory-Foam-Earpad/dp/B00ZGGG3KY)

They opened the sound stage a bit and retained the sound quality, while becoming much more comfortable. I think the mid bass may have diminished just a little, but after breaking them in, the mid-bass returned to normal. I imagine the pads flattened out, bringing the drivers closer to their original position.
These are the only closed pair of cans I own, now. I sold my M50x's, Shure SRH840's, and gave my brother my old Sony MDR's because I love the M40x's. I use these with a Fiio E07K, and Spotify 320kbps, when on-the-go. I mainly use the Fidelio X2's at my desktop and put the HD598's upstairs for the "family" computer.

Bottom line, the M40X and aftermarket pads (if you don't like the stock pads) should be the only closed back headphones you need unless you want to spend over $300.

Keep in mind, this is just my experience/opinion. As is everything when it comes to audio equipment.

Alright, by hybrid I assume you mean these: (amazon uk link). How do they change the sound signature of the M40xs compared to the original ones because I've really gotten used to it and don't want to make them sound like $20 headphones.

ATH-M50x's with brainwavz pads since the stock ones are thin and will fall apart after a year of heavy use. And a ModMic.

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR86/ - $150~

https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Hybrid-Memory-Foam-Earpad/dp/B00ZGGG3KY - $30~

https://www.amazon.com/Antlion-Audio-ModMic-Attachable-Microphone/dp/B00R98O6R4 - $50~

Of course if you already have a mid the ModMic isn't needed. OR for just twice the price cut the second cord attached to your skull and get an AT2020 and even a Scarlett Solo for the best sound possible.

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2020-Cardioid-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B0006H92QK - $100~

https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56CM - $100~

Meanwhile in Canada... Amazon.ca :(

$60 canadian on amazon

https://www.amazon.ca/Valve-Steam-Link-Windows-Linux/dp/B016XBGWAQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498239633&sr=8-1&keywords=steam+link

also on amazon for lazy fucks like me

https://www.amazon.ca/Valve-Steam-Link-Windows-Linux/dp/B016XBGWAQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479941810&sr=8-1&keywords=STEAM%2BLINK&th=1

Just did a quick check, and this works out to $23.67 us, which at the moment works out to about $32 Canadian shipped.

Here is the link for anyone who was interested.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Yes

This is the one I use and have had no issues

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IM36VU0/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_1aHWBbNN35MJA

Your TV doesn’t appear to have any RCA outputs, but there might be a headphone jack somewhere else on the tv. If not, you could get an SPDIF converter for the optical out PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio L/R Converter Adapter with Optical Cable for PS3 Xbox HD DVD PS4 Home Cinema Systems AV Amps Apple TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aPYvCbT1S2HBC

Well either get an active adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A493CNY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Or spend that $100+ to upgrade your monitor.

I use a HDMI Splitter for my setup when I record Gameplay footage for my Youtube Channel.

Currently I own this and never failed me since,
http://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=sr_1_5?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1450792526&sr=1-5&keywords=hdmi+splitter

It is powered but its good.

Here is what I found on Amazon. The reviews are hilarious too.

You'll need one of these to protect against viruses.

obligatory comedy cable reviews

You'd be surprised what people pay for HDMI cables

The Mohu Leaf antenna is the one I use. It picks up stations from the two cities that I'm in the middle of, each about 30-35 miles away. Plus, it's made in the USA. They also make a powered version that is supposed to get even better reception, but I can't speak for that one since I don't have it.

I use that antenna and Amazon Prime or "other" streaming sites for movies.

Mohu Leaf

Just pick up something like this and plug it in to your phone and the receiver and you're good to go.

Buy a U-Turn Basic, Micca MB42 speakers, Lepai amp, Pyle pre amp and some cheap speaker wire

It's over your budget but this is about as cheap as you can get while still getting new high quality gear.

It's a huge pain to set up port conversion on these monitors. You'll need an active DisplayPort to DVI dual link adapter, which cost over a hundred dollars and have been reported to not work consistently with 144 HZ. Other stuff, like passive DP>DVI or HDMI>DVI cables don't work with high refresh rates. The one DVI-D port on your card would work fine, but don't expect to get 144 HZ on the other monitor.

Here's one, read the reviews if you want more info.

well if its a 144hz monitor, it means the only way to get 144hz is through dvi dual link, since you only have dp and hdmi youd have to shell out about 100 bones for an active dp to dual link dvi adapter

Disclaimer: I hate desktop stands. They take up too much space and rarely look good.

My favorite. The only thing preventing it from being perfect is screw holes on the top for clean mounting under a desk.. I can easily add those though.

Second favorite. Works great, has screw holes for under desk mounting.

Nice wall mount hangers. I like these a lot for wall mounting.

The old standby. Cheap and effective. I use a few of these throughout the house for hanging headphones. No, they do not cause damage or indentations on headphone bands.

Absolutely no prob :)


My mom reviews electronics for a living so we end up getting tons of new devices really often and generally need to find cables to match so things are being switched out and added in all the time. To make it more convenient instead of having to go sort through a box or into a drawer and untangle cables I wanted something super easy access to so that if i needed an hdmi , bam, I had one. Same with the others.

For the controllers I used Stick-On Game Controller Hooks 2 Pack. The snes and nes usb controllers are simply hung via a tack.


I got a simple ~$10 corkboard from walmart, used a label maker for the labels and then used CraZy TACKz 36tacks to hang the cables. I wouldn't recommend them though, a standard tack works better honestly ( In theory a hook is great but they loosen and then swing around making it a pain to re-orient them when you're taking things on and off frequently.)

The headphones under the desk is The Anchor Great adhesive, super cheap and can orient it vertically or horizontally which lets you fit two pair ( in my case one for skype/discord+gaming and the other for general use since it has better quality but no mic)

---
For anyone else curious about the other pieces of the set up:

the desk is Series A:72inch Desk by Bush Business Furinture.

The lights are EconoLed RGB 5M 3528 LED Strip Light 300leds

Mousepad is Reflex Lab Huge Gaming Mouse Pad

The headphones are :
SteelSeries Arctis 5 and Audio-Technica ATH-A900X

Monitors are : ASUS VN279QL and Dell U3417W FR3PK

Keyboard is : Razer BlackWidow X Tournament Edition Chroma

Mouse is : Razer Naga Hex v2

So far the Bose Sound True II for apple seems pretty good. Too bad the deal wasn't for the android variant of it :( https://www.amazon.com/Bose-SoundTrue-around-ear-headphones-II/dp/B0117RFX38/

Don't think Im taking a chance on those bose earbuds. All the reviews rip it's Build Quality apart. I mean IEM's are mostly plastic but how do you make it that bad lol.


Sennheiser 598's SE are back on sale for 110$ 10$more than the lowest. Pretty good if you want open back. https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-HD-598-Over-Ear-Headphones/dp/B0126HISOO/

Pink Cloud II's for 75$ is pretty good. One of the best gaming headsets for your money. https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset-PS4/dp/B00Y09G6H8/

Beyer Custom Street?!?! what are these? Bassier versions of the custom ones? Now even sure if it's a deal at 99$ https://www.amazon.com/beyerdynamic-Custom-Street-Headphones-Black/dp/B00UK7ZQXO/

Other than the usual cheap ass wood earbuds and shitty gamer headphones this sale seems kinda sad :(

So far pretty good for entry level stuff but that's the "amazon" usual so it seems with every big sale.


edit: So in 2 hours this is supposed to drop in price, anyone hear anything good about these? I might bite to try them out as I'm currently using shit for iems. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OQG7IC2/
--

8AM PST these are going to drop in price, I know they are very popular :P https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B1QENY/ DT880 250 Ohm O.o
--

832AM Brainwavs hybrid pads are lined up for sale https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZGGG3KY/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZGGG3KY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The Steam Link also appears to be available at that price, but it's sold out. You can still order and get it when available, though.

Same price from Amazon as well, and let's face it, who has better shipping and customer service standards?

Steam doesn't support ARM, so neither will work. You'll need something that runs x86, or a Steam Link.

$20 on Amazon right now

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016XBGWAQ/

Both the Steam Link ($19.99) and the Steam Controller ($34.99) are the same price on Amazon now which might be a better deal when factoring in shipping costs.
Steam Link
Steam Controller

The mall with the value village has a lil used computer shop and there is one near the Mitsubishi dealership.

Alternatively. They sell a dvi to VGA adaptor dongle that was popular when dvi cards first rolled out and everyone still have VGA monitors. (Hell anyone with an old cards likely have them collecting dust) looks like this https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000067SOH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mb44Ab48H3T80

I have been using one with no issue on newer cards, OTV would absolutely have one to buy. Not sure if that fits your specific requirements but its my guess what you are up to.

Dude, plug some rabbit ears into your tv. They are super cheap and give you an HD signal

https://www.amazon.com/RCA-ANT111Z-Durable-Antenna-Rabbit/dp/B000HKGK8Y/ref=pd_ybh_a_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QZEW46XQ6QGGNPJC9TD9

if you order it now you can get it in time for the game on wednesday if you have prime.

or you can go to the game too i suppose.

Sennheiser HD 558

"Open" headphones, which means the outside parts of these headphones aren't solid. And because it's open...

• Sound leaks out, which means other people can easily hear whatever you're listening to even at normal volume
  
• Wider soundstage, which means you can better pinpoint where and how far the sounds feel like they're coming from (imagine you were in a decently sized concert hall with the sounds coming from all around you)
  
• Less bass, which means you won't get those headrattling wubwubs and explosive bass hits
  
• More treble, which means you can hear the higher sounding stuff like pianos and snare drums
  
• Do-it-yourself moddable, which can help adjust the HD 558 headphones to sound closer to it's big brother, the HD 598, and may help add a teaspoon of bass
  
  -------------------------
  
  Audio-Technica ATH-M50
  
  "Closed" headphones, which means the outside parts of these headphones are solid. And because it's closed...
  
  
• Sound stays in, which means other people won't be able to easily hear whatever you're listening to even at normal volume
  
• Smaller soundstage, which means it's more difficult to pinpoint where and how far the sounds are coming from (imagine you were stuck in a small closet with the sounds coming from the walls)
  
• More bass, which means the wubwubs and bass hits have some more "punch" in them
  
• Less treble, which means instruments like pianos and snare drums are less "crispy" and sound duller
  
• Default earpads are commonly swapped out since the M50 earpads can wear out, may be uncomfortable, or the ears can get warm over time.
  
  -----------------------------------------
  
  Both are pretty good headphones, and there are pros and cons to each. Just remember to consider what kind of music you listen to, what kind of games you play, and whether or not people will be around you when you're listening to stuff! If portability is a concern, the ATH-M50x can fold up into a more compact shape if needed whereas the HD 558 can't.
  
  And welcome to the audiophile world! Your wallet will cry!
  
  Come stop by /r/headphones whenever you want!

They are super durable- Once you get the ear pads replaced, they can last for years. I've had mine for a few years; used them at home and on the job (live sound) daily. They still work good as new. Great cans. I'm glad you like them!

I haven't tried socks, but I have used some of these with good results.

Well since you know so much about HDMI, you would know that this is the best one you can buy:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT08E4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fKtLBb1M0YP8M

definitely get a better cable
the pricier, the more colors, i recommend
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

on a more serious note, you need hdmi 1.3 or above for 144hz 1080p, for 60hz 1080p, any will do
make sure to not waste your money on cables, its a digital signal, it works or it doesnt work, thats all the difference between one cable an another

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

My guess is you bought one of those cheap unshielded ones. You should really invest in one more like this.

You couldn't come close to buying the parts required for less than you can get an already made solution.

They are $40.
http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=pd_sim_e_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1Q03FZS4CHMQ7KZKC7EF

You can just get one of these guys for $30, it will extract the audio for you out of the hdmi cable into a 3.5mm port:

http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Registered-Trademark-Extractor/dp/B00G9FDJNA/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1418679514&sr=8-11&keywords=hdmi+audio+splitter

I have this one myself, I just use a $2 RCA to 3.5mm jack convertor cable in addition to it. That way I could use the optical 5.1 out in the future if I wanted to:

http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418679514&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+audio+splitter

At 32 ohms it shouldn’t be too tough to have your PS4 push out the power for the headphones.

You probably don’t need to use an external sound card and could just use the controller. I’ve done that with my sennheiser HD598 (50 ohms). If you need a microphone and headphone splitter cable this is the one that I use with a zalman in-line microphone. Of course, with the SHP 9500 you have the benefit of a 3.5mm connection so you could just get a V-Moda BoomPro and plug that directly into the controller.

Sorry this may not be the solution you’re looking for but it is cheaper than buying a new soundcard🙈

Can you tell us the brand and model of the TV or show us a photo of the connectors on the back?

I'm skeptical that the TV has RCA audio out. These days they typically only have RCA in; audio out will typically be a toslink optical connection.

And therein may lie the answer. If your TV indeed has a toslink "audio out" connection and your "old CD player" has an RCA "aux in" connection, then you can use a TOSLINK to RCA converter to plug the TV through the CD player to the speakers.

Dude don't cheap out on your HDMI cables, get this one

/s

obviously you haven't had the same experience as these Amazon Reviewers

HA Haha Hahaha HAAAAHAHAHAHA... Gold?

Get that pussy-ass pleb shit outta here! We got diamonds now, bitch.

I use this:

http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411660653&sr=8-1&keywords=kinivo+hdmi

You can get it in 5 or 3 ports...I have a PS3, PS4, Xbox One, Wii U and a Roku 3 plugged into it...works well.

I have the Mohu Leaf and it picks it up great. but it also depends on what floor he is on, distance from the tower, etc.

I picked up one of these a month ago after cutting cable. I have it near a window and it picks up about 29 channels, though half or more are in Spanish. The local HD channels which is all I care about look great.

Yes to all of your questions, assuming that your TV has an over-the-air tuner.

I use another model, but the Moho Leaf is an antenna with very strong reviews. Or, start off with a $15 Radio Shack model.

This one is actually a lot better. I use it and it tunes ABC, NBC, CBS, FOX, PBS, and a half dozen other things in perfectly clear HD. I have it mounted behind my TV, but you can put it anywhere and hook it to your coax system.

I'll emphasize again that this tunes HD, which even on a cable provider like Comcast or Warner is usually an EXTRA charge. It's a great option for me since the only TV I usually watch is on the main networks.

If you live in an urban area, you will most likely get the signal to watch your major sports on ABC, FOX, NBC, & CBS in HD with this. I am watching Jeopardy right now and watching the hockey game tonight.

Put your zip code here to see what kind of signal you will get.

Couldn't you get a cheap HDTV antenna? The Leaf is phenomenal and picks up signals for me that are around 40 miles away.

Hey all!

This is probably old news for many of you but for those thinking of setting up GroovyMAME with CRT_EmuDriver, do it; you won't be disappointed. It is a little bit of mucking around but the fruits of your labour are well worth it.

Some helpful links that I've collected along the way:

GroovyMAME -- Get the latest GroovyMAME from here. This forum is also pretty active so if you get stuck, you may find someone else in a similar spot as you. A great resource!

CRT_EmuDriver -- Get the latest CRT_EmuDriver versions here. Also has guides for setting up based on your selected hardware / software setup.

Wavebeam Guide -- Excellent and comprehensive guide from Wavebeam detailing the entire setup (including software and hardware requirements). Given that it is over a year old, use it as a reference to give you an idea of what is involved. The hardware aspects are pretty much the same now, but some of the pieces relating to software you will want to seek more up-to-date info.


Buttersoft Windows + CRT / PVM Guide -- buttersoft's supremely thorough thread on hooking your PC up to your CRT / PVM. Lots of great info here.

GroovyMAME Setup Thread -- Recap's thread on setting up GroovyMAME. The guides and posts on the Eiusdemmodi forum are descriptive and thorough. In particular, you should read this post as it has useful information pertaining to audio latency (search for 'PortAudio') and I foolishly missed it the first time and wasted a lot of unnecessary time with ASIO4ALL.

As for my setup, before I begin, I will point out that it is not ideal for someone planning to avoid Windows and boot directly into a MAME frontend. For that, you should really consider a discrete card that be flashed with Calamity's ATOM-15 -- more info here. I went the way I did because I wanted to be able to keep my computer relatively versatile given that I already have a dedicated cabinet.
With that out of the way...I spent probably more than I needed to getting this up and running. I couldn't find a whole lot of info about people who have set this up on relatively "new" hardware. Most people tend to favour older OS's and discrete cards, whereas I was more interested in Windows 10 and an AMD APU based system after reading this post outlining the hardware behind the recent SkyCurser arcade game. Enough waffling on:

• Case: IN WIN BM643BK18PNU3
  
• CPU / GPU: AMD A8-7600 Kaveri
  
• Mobo: ASRock A88M-ITX/ac R2.0
  
• RAM: Ballistix Elite 4GB Single DDR3 2133 (probably should get another for dual channel)
  
  It is all hooked up to my Olympus OEV-203 via a VGA to RGBHV cable, with the H/V sync on a BNC Y adaptor (male to dual female). I am just running the audio through the mono speaker on the PVM at the moment using a 3.5mm to RCA cable with a RCA Y splitter.
  
  Hope this helps some of you. Good luck!

Yes, buy an hdmi spliter:
https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS

Four connecting your record player, you'll need an RCA cable with a ground cable; something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CRA-202DJ-Right-Angle-Ground-Interconnect/dp/B000PO1H80/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1473063914&sr=1-1&keywords=rca+cable+ground

The speakers you can connect with speaker wire like this one: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0WDQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1473064034&sr=1-4&keywords=speaker+wire
Just make sure you don't switch + and -

There are 5 types of connector

So long as the thunderbolt adapter you're using is DVI (not VGA), you will need a single-link DVI-D cable (or a dual-link DVI-D cable, the adapter won't support it but it will work)

I'm assuming your monitors are flat panels (since you can get old CRT glass screen monitors with DVI-A sockets.. these are analog and rare!).

DVI-D will work with Mini DisplayPort to DVI Adapter

DVI-A and DVI-I might work with Mini DisplayPort to VGA Adapter and a VGA to DVI-A but this will require you monitor to work in digital (which all modern flat screens do) as well as Analog (not all DVI sockets support this, you can tell if it has 4 pins around the blade slot)

Basically, if you have a VGA adapter with your mac, expect more problems with flat screens that only have DVI

There's two types of DVI connectors: DVI-D and DVI-I. Only DVI-I is capable of an analog signal, but it looks like your card has that connector (double check me on that). If so you just need a simple DVI-I to VGA adapter like this https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-DVI-Cable-Adapter-DVIVGAMF/dp/B000067SOH

Make sure it's DVI-I instead of DVI-D by looking at pics of the connectors online, they are slightly different. If its DVI-i there's no conversion necessary and no input lag introduced.

EDIT: Fixed the link

Same boat here. Oddly enough, this has had the best performance!

http://www.amazon.com/RCA-ANT111F-Basic-Indoor-Antenna/dp/B000HKGK8Y/ref=sr_1_7?s=tv&ie=UTF8&qid=1418246213&sr=1-7

I've tried several others. Unfortunately there will be a lot of trial and error. One person's killer antenna might not work in someone else's apartment due to how NYC is laid out.

put a ball point pen in your mouth and close your eyes and you should be able to see everything perfectly... changing stations i can't help you with.

​

problem you have is you are just a few miles from some strong broadcast towers and you want to pickup stations at a long distance. and this won't happen normally and the use of an amplifier will wipe out all your signals because you will overload your tv set's tuner once you go over about 90db

your only hope to pick up baltimore stations is to point a directional antenna northeast at baltimore

see but look at your signal strength .. for DC you are in the mid 70's db and for baltimore you are in the 35's

it is like twice as strong and the DC stations are close to the top margin where you overload your tv's tuner.

Remember these signal levels are only approximate but your distance of 2 to 4 or so miles says $10 rabbitear antenna is all you need.. but baltimore might not be an option .. I think unfortunately all you are going to be able to pickup are the stations that say GOOD on your Rabbitears listing

try something like this

https://www.amazon.com/RCA-ANT111E-Digital-Antenna-Non-Amplified/dp/B000HKGK8Y/

or maybe something like this pointed northeast at baltimore

https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Master-STEALTHtenna-CM3010HD-Antenna/dp/B00PKLOA7I/

​

I am in delaware and I try to get Baltimore and Philly and .. I am equally about 50-60 miles out and I use huge antennas and the strongest amps you can get.. and it is rough getting signals from 2 markets because

​

Look on your tvfool report... see all the A and C boxes on the left of your table readout .... that means those channels have interference from other stations that are nearby .. meaning trying to get both DC and Baltimore might lose you every station with a A or a C red box... Or maybe not.. you never know until you try..

but I have those problems where I live and some days its just a crap shoot as to which tv stations are going to be available.. and even the really strong 5 out of 5 bar stations get knocked off.

​

so yeah .. its cool .. give it a shot.. im just saying don't be surprised heh because it can get weird trying to do what you want to do.

good luck

That's a strong enough signal, even an RCA ANT-111Z would work fine. Also available at walmart. Point it due north, and do a channel scan. You actually have a strong enough signal, that a paperclip would probably get a few stations.

Also keep in mind that there is no such thing as a "digital antenna". An antenna is an antenna and is cut to a specific frequency. It doesn't matter what's being broadcast on it. So long as there's a signal, it will work. The only difference is the receiver, (in this case, your television). "HD Digital Antennas" are a marketing scam. if you have an antenna from the 70's, it will work today just fine.

Here are some Beyerdynamic Pads that fit. The Amazon customer review pictures have some instructions on how to fit them, and this Head-Fi forum post has some step-by-step instruction pictures as well. I put the pads on my M50's, and I have really liked how they feel. I still think they sound good, but as with most things YMMV.

The Beyerdynamic DT250 pads are also a solution, which for many are the go to pads for the M50.

I got the velour pads like other people suggested a year or so ago and love them.

Here's a link for purchase: http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-EDT250V-Headphone-Pads-Black/dp/B0016MF7W2

> it's a hobby where it's easy to get carried away with spending money if you have it.

I'm pretty sure that is the definition for the word 'hobby'. Just look at audiophile stuff. $850USD for a 3' HDMI cable?? The signal isn't even analogue, only encoded digital, so there's no way for it to degrade without not working at all.

Yeah, if you want a fuzzy picture you pleb.

HDMI cables just like Motherboards aren't something you go cheap with unless you're a moron that likes regret.

Get one of these and you wont regret it. Make sure to get the 4 year warranty unless you like feeling like a fucking tool.

Edit: Don't believe me? read this Q+A.

Question: We are talking 'digital' audio, correct? 1's and 0's ... not analogue audio that really benifits from serious quality??!!!!

Answer: This cable is such good quality that it supports the transferrence of 0's, 1's and 2's. Also it transports dark matter at beyond the speed of dark matter. So good in fact that CERN have scrapped the Hadron Collider and replaced it with one of these cables.

If I'm ever rich I'll buy this just because fuck it

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4/

The Anchor - THE ORIGINAL Under-Desk Headphone Stand Mount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P31BMHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yXUMzbN8F3BPW

I personally use this and really love it. Saves some desk space, too!

https://www.amazon.com/Anchor-ORIGINAL-Under-Desk-Headphone-Stand/dp/B00P31BMHG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1525891693&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=anchor+headphone&psc=1

Here's what I've been using. So far so good.

I just dropped $30 on the [Brainwavz Hybrid Pads] (http://www.amazon.ca/Brainwavz-Replacement-Hybrid-Memory-Earpad/dp/B00ZGGG3KY/ref=pd_cp_23_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=06BKT2GEM26M0CDDR1WR). The price for the Shures in Canada were $20, I love the velour on my HD598s so I just pulled the trigger on the Hybrids instead, thanks for your help though :)

Its on sale for $20 right now if anyone is interested.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016XBGWAQ/

I know it doesn't help you now but, Amazon sells the Steam Link. I can almost guarantee that your customer service experience will be better with them.

http://www.amazon.com/Steam-Link-Pc/dp/B016XBGWAQ

Your address probably wasn't even wrong, in the US, this happens to me with Fedex all the time just because they don't have time to come to my house and don't want to have to take responsibility for missing their deadline.

Steam Controller and Steam Link price matched at Amazon. Helps defer shipping costs with Prime

Steam Controller $34.99 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016KBVBCS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Steam Link $34.99 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

The offer is still available, just check under other sellers and makes sure to order the one from Amazon.com.

No worries, buddy. Happy to help. You don't need to worry about a preamp just yet, as your turntable has one built in. Just make sure you have the selector switch on the back of the unit set to "line" rather than "phono" and you're all set. As for connecting the speakers to the receiver, I managed to find a pic of the rear connections on the U310. It looks like they use spring clips to connect, so you're going to have to use bare wire.

First thing you'll need is a spool of speaker wire. I've had good luck with the Amazon Basics stuff, and it's about as cheap as decent wire gets. You'll need to strip a bit of the jacket off of each wire on each end. I do it by hand, but you might want to try a wire stripper if you're not comfortable free-handing things. Once you've exposed the bare wire, simply give each side a quick twist to secure them into separate threads and insert each thread into the back of the speaker, depressing the spring clip to allow the wire to fit into the hole and releasing it to bite down on the wire. As for the back of the amp, the procedure's the same if it has spring clips. If it has binding posts like the SMSL I linked earlier, you'll want to unscrew them a bit, wrap the bare wire around the exposed post, and tighten the post heads back down to create a nice, tight seal.

One word of warning on the off chance you've never done anything like this before. Remember to connect your positive (red) terminals on your speakers to your positive terminals on your amp, and your negative (black) to negative. The speaker wire makes that pretty easy, as one channel is marked with a little white line so you'll always know what's going where. Additionally, make sure your amp's left output is wired to your left speaker and the right to the right. Simple stuff, but it's easy to miss if this is your first time.

Honestly, if you want a meaningfully better 2.1 setup than the Z-2300 then you should go for a pair of bookshelf speakers, a subwoofer, and an amp.

Personally, I would even go for a AV Receiver rather than an amp.

One example of a "budget" setup I would recommend costs $406 and the parts are linked below:

• $80 Bookshelf speakers
  
  
• $150 AV Receiver
  
  
• $168 Subwoofer
  
  
• $8 Speaker Wire
  
  You can definitely save some money by buying parts used. Your local Craiglists will probably have deals on old subwoofers or AV Receivers.
  
  $400 definitely sounds pricey, but it's no more expensive than "premium" 2.1 computer speaker sets. For example Razor charges $500 for their top of the line 2.1 speakers. Those speakers are no better than the Pro Media 2.1. They just come with pretty lights on them.

Not a cable, a hub. He wanted to sell me a 2-port HDMI Hub with no remote for $75, instead I went to Amazon and got a 3-port with remote for less than $10. And it's worked flawlessly for 5 months.

http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-HDMI-Switcher-Support/dp/B00B46XUQU

you would need a hdmi selector switch.

http://www.amazon.com/PORTTA-PET0301S-Switcher-Supports-Wireless/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_1_2?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1427552676&sr=1-2&keywords=hdmi+switch

Yes, just like Logitech’s

But use a 3.5mm to rca cable

They may come with a cable?

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8JW0

LPT: Never, ever buy those shitty Logitech/Sony/Creative/whatever 2.1 speaker systems on Amazon for your PC

Instead, buy a cheap amp, some speaker wire and head to your local Goodwill to find some bookshelf speakers.

Boom. You now have high quality sound for under $50 that will blow anything you can find at that price point on Amazon out of the water.

Every Goodwill I've been in has had bookshelf speakers for sale, and if you're real lucky you can find some excellent equipment for dirt cheap. I found a pair of these bad boys for freaking $13 last weekend

Don't use the guitar amp for this project. If you're being cheap get the Lepai and some speaker wire. Add this adapter in too and you're out the door for like $35.

Amp:
http://www.parts-express.com/lepai-lp-2020a-tripath-class-t-hi-fi-audio-mini-amplifier-with-power-supply--310-300?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla

Speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B009IUIV4A/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&srs=3097377011&ie=UTF8&qid=1472956289&sr=8-1-catcorr&keywords=bookshelf+speakers

Wire:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0WDQ/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&srs=3097377011&ie=UTF8&qid=1472956231&sr=8-2-catcorr&keywords=speaker+wire

Roughly $88 for the combo, excluding wire

edit* You'll also want one of these to connect to your computer:
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=5597&gclid=CPrq4dXW9M4CFdQ2gQodeugApg

This is a several piece system you'd have to get.

​

First is an HDMI audio extractor then an BT transmitter and if you want to be able to switch between the Roku and the TV tuner you'd then need an HDMI switch.

​

At that point with all that in place, you honestly would be better off getting a receiver. You can get a cheap receiver, like the Denon S530BT from Accessories4less.com for $150 then pair that with some cheap speakers and you're already better than all that equipment above.

I have my Switch, 360, and ps3 hooked up to my monitor using an HDMI switch, and an Audio Extractor. This works super seamlessly, I just turn on whatever console I like and the Hdmi switches and I am able to get digital audio out automatically. I use a headset mainly, one of my friends have a logitech z213 speakers and they sound pretty nice! Hope that helps!

Just as a heads up, you can plug and use any headset into the ps4 controller as long as you get a 4 pole jack plug like this http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457793178&sr=8-1&keywords=sennheiser+audio+adapter


No need to spend 100 bucks on the sony exclusive one, unless you REALLY want it.

I also don't think it's really necessary when you don't play much multiplayer with friends but good headphones really enhance the exprience when playing horror games or generally games with thick atmosphere. A good sound system would probably still be better but I don't know your setup.

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1387589925&sr=8-1&keywords=diamond+hdmi

Lmao read the reviews

In all serious though gold and silver are used in pretty much all computers. Gold does not oxidize like copper.

I'm sorry, but looking at the reviews of this HDMI cable it does seem that the more expensive cables are A LOT better.

Super stylish.

Then you can bring along your camera, film some sweet video, take some nice selfies, then go home and watch it on your sweet TV and hooking the camera up with you diamond HDMI camble

Is it this one?

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-5-Port-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=kinivo+hdmi+switch&link_code=qs&qid=1568653868&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6909317011&rnid=6909315011&s=audio-video-accessories&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=1-1

It says it switches inputs automatically. Can you verify that works with turning the minis on/off?

I love the switch as well! However, I don't think anything is immune to criticism, and Nintendo has made a lot of weird decisions that are a step back IMHO.

Anyway, check this out, it may help with your HDMI situation. I will say it does get out of sync when you dock the Switch because of how the Switch "wakes up" when docked but does not necessarily send video output. If you leave it docked, you can basically switch from PS4 and Switch depending on which device is awake at the moment.

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522417904&sr=1-3&keywords=kinivo+hdmi+switch

I've had a bunch of thr cheap hdmi switchers and they all seem to die after 9 months after having issues with specific devices not working (ps3 and wiiu) from the start. I bought this one reccomemeded in a home theater subreddit and it has taken everything I've thrown at it with no issues: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049SCB2Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't need to use the remote often as the auto switching is solid. I put my chromecast on my tv and roku on the switch as running more than one always on device screws with the autoswitching.

Get a Harmony anyway, they are super awesome.

The major networks broadcast over-the-air as well as through cable. If you dont have cable but want to watch the shows, you would need an HD antenna attached to your television or TV tuner card in your PC. There is no monthly fee or cost beyond the antenna unless you want to add a DVR of your own.

What Aeroe does is moves the location of the antenna to their own data center and permits you to stream that same content over the interwebs to you PC or laptop. They justify the monthly expense by offering DVR service and "leasing" you the antenna.

I'm looking at the specs of your TV, and it DOES have an audio output.

Just use the headphones output! If your Home Theater has an analog input, you can just buy a cheap adapter and connect from your TV's 3.5mm output to your sound system's RCA input.

You'll just need an adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66

Hopefully you can find $2 more. I have this $22 splitter and it works fine.

http://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/

Can we get a DIAMOND MICRO-USB for $2000 though? Like these but smaller: http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

Should of got one of these

Oh I dunno about that

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Read the reviews, you will know what you must do

Yeah. I think this one might actually work http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I

OP should try it and let us know

If you want the best, then this is what you want: http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

One example of some pretty good trolling on Amazon are the reviews for Amazon's most expensive HDMI cable.

Well, this one has better reviews.
http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I

The pen needs a diamond HDMI cable matching accessory designed by Sylvester Stallone™. Add skulls, some truck nuts, and maybe a tribal design...bingo bango we double the price.

Also, I'd like the Chaos if it only accepted cartridges.

Well, not really.

Accessories normally have a higher margin but even those are somewhat competitive. For example Best Buy sells house brand USB extension cables for $4.99. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/dynex-6-usb-a-to-usb-a-extension-cable-black/8610285.p?skuId=8610285

The $300 cables are audiophile snake oil that no reasonable person would even consider. Like this one: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/audioquest-carbon-9-8-hdmi-cable-black-dark-gray/9892524.p?skuId=9892524

And that's nothing compared to what you can find at Amazon, like these $2700 HDMI cables from the same manufacturer:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CT2A6I/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_4_r

I do not work for Best Buy, nor have I purchased anything from them in the past 2 years. I used to work for one of their vendors though.

Diamond HDMI cabling to reduce lag.
http://amzn.com/B003CT2A6I

Well If I had 15 conference rooms I would probably do something a little more "official". Look into the wide world of Crestron and Extron products. If its on a conference table I would look at something like the Fliptop tied into an HDMI switch/scaler for your different digital and analog formats with a single HDMI running back to the screen. Of course you can always start going over the top by tying in audio and lighting but its all about $$$.

Or if you like quick and dirty, ScottRaymond has the right solution except put all the clutter under the table and get an auto sensing HDMI switch like this one

Source: A/V at a conference center is one of my hats

I use:http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393787526&sr=8-1&keywords=kinovo+hdmi+switch

I have my XB1, PS4, Apple TV, Directv HDDDVR all plugged in. It always displays the most recent device I turned on.

Here is one with 5 HDMI ports
https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y

but yeah an AV Receiver is probably the best bang for buck since you can plug in mostly everything into one device.

Do you mean splitter (view your PS4 on multiple screens) or switcher (switch between your PS4 and other HDMI devices connected to one screen)?

I'm just not sure why many people would need a three-way HDMI splitter for their PS4....

If you're looking for a switcher, I've been using this one for almost 5 years. If you want something under $20, this one seems to have good reviews.

Got this guy set up just recently; pretty happy with it for the consoles I have hooked up.

Kinivo 4K 30hz + 1080p 60hz for 3,299₹ (proper seller, with warranty, Appario Retail) - Amazon link

Kinivo 4K 60hz for 6,289₹ (not an official seller, no guarantee or warranty) - Amazon link

I've had good results with Kinivo HDMI switches and Harmony remotes. I haven't used the UHD ones, but the FHD ones work great.

Kinivo FHD HDMI switches

Kinivo 301BN (3x1)

Kinivo 501BN (5x1)

Kinivo UHD HDMI switches

Kinivo K300 (3x1)

Kinivo K500 (5x1)

I use this one. Switches automatically as well as with the included remote. Had it about a year, works great.

Kinivo 501BN Premium 5 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xQTfvb00CX835

For more modern consoles you would need a HDMI switch. Same concept, but different connection type.

I splurged and got a little pricier one: http://amzn.com/B0049SCB2Y

I was going to get a cheap 3 input one, but the 3 input from this brand wasn't much more. And then once I had that it wasn't much more for the 5 input. I too had three devices and one input, so I decided to get the 5 input switcher in case I added a device in the future. Now I'm glad I did since I'll be adding a chrome cast.

I've only had it for a few weeks so I can't give you a long term review, but so far it's worked great. I just have my Wii U and PS3 plugged into it right now and it automatically switches between the two. I don't think it will work with a Roku though, because the always on screensaver thing will make the switcher think it's always playing something. It comes with a remote control to switch manually. My TV has 3 inputs so I'll be putting the chromecast in one, Roku in one, and the switcher in the other for all my gaming systems and cable box.

Help from the more knowledgeable would be appreciated. I live in zip 23508--here's an AntennaWeb map of the area.

I've got a non-amplified [Mohu Leaf antenna] (http://www.amazon.com/Mohu-Leaf-Paper-Thin-Indoor-Antenna/dp/B004QK7HI8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1405344490&sr=8-5&keywords=antenna) mounted in a first-floor window facing south. The antenna is connected via a 25-foot good quality coax to a Tivo box.

My reception is terrible. Lots of pixilation and audio dropouts.

My research led me to think that the Mohu Leaf was an adequate device for my situation. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

Save more and drop cable completely. I promise you won't miss it between Netflix and Hulu. You could also get something like this if you find yourself missing broadcast channels or the news. One time purchase, and it's free TV from then on! Plus, over the air signals are actually of higher quality than what your cable provider compresses and sends to you.

I live right outside Baltimore and have used one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Mohu-MH-110583-Antenna-Premium-Connectors/dp/B004QK7HI8

It works very well and the picture is great.

You can use this site to figure out the best place to put your antenna based on the direction the stations are coming from
http://disablemycable.com/station-finder/

There are outdoor antennas as well that you could get but in my opinion the Leaf indoor is the easiest

Here's an indoor HD antenna:

http://www.amazon.com/Paper-Thin-Leaf-Indoor-Antenna/dp/B004QK7HI8

I cut the cord 6 months ago, went from paying $140 a month to $35, I got rid of everything except internet. It was a no brainer, can't believe it took me that long to get rid of cable.

For television, I got the Paper Thin Leaf anthena from amazon and it works perfect.

http://www.amazon.com/Paper-Thin-Leaf-Indoor-Antenna/dp/B004QK7HI8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333694970&sr=8-1

We only have over air signal, and we swear by our Leaf. It's inexpensive, looks great, has the strongest signal of the 5 we tried, and gives us lots of channels. We watch about 20 channels, and more are available that we just didn't program.

I'm at Camelback and the I17 and only have a little trouble with distant channels during severe storms.

I just did a ton of research on which TV antenna would work best in the north/east sides of Atlanta. My $20 Target version wasn't cutting it and I wanted something a little bit better.

This one comes out on top. Apparently you should stay away from amplified antenna if it's kept in doors, as the amplification can actually keep it from getting more channels. Amplification is better for outdoor antenna and a money-making gimmick for indoors. With this Mohu one, I jumped to getting almost 90 channels from the 50 or so I was poorly getting with my cheapie one.

We have one similar to this. Mohu Leaf 30 TV Antenna, Indoor, 40 Mile Range, Original Paper-thin, Reversible, Paintable, 4K-Ready HDTV, 10 Foot Detachable Cable, Premium Materials for Performance, USA Made, MH-110583 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QK7HI8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ej8-Ab87CRMHE

This is what most people are using successfully for OTA in the US:
http://amzn.com/B00I2ZBD1U

I recommend this antenna: http://amzn.com/B004QK7HI8

Edit: Oops, you already have an antenna. Oh well, Ill leave it there for others.

Yep. You need this. https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66

Use headphone out on the back of your PC into the AUX port on the receiver. Start with the PC volume low and the receiver volume low.

PC: Green Audio Out 3.5mm Port -> Surround System: Audio In
You'll need the right cable for it though. Example

However, that might only be standard audio.
(I never messed with out style audio, I just use ToSLink for my audio.)

So the magni 3 has rca inputs.

So my set up is computer --> optical --> smsl 793 dac --> rca --> magni 3 --> headphones.

The smsl 793 is actually a dac/amp combo but I found it underwhelming with my 6XX, luckily it has a line out if you only want to use the dac portion. I've had it for years but they were only pushing 32 and 80 ohm headphones before and would really struggle to reach listening volume with 300ohms.

However a dac is not necessary. You could very easily take the 3.5mm jack into a split rca into the magni, then hook your headphones to that. You'd just need this cable between your pc and the amp.

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66

Many people recommend a dac simply because it can make an improvement in sound, will help avoid electrical interference since the signal is over USB or SPDIF (Coax & Optical), and can help if you have a noise floor issue (hiss) and jitter.

Most modern dacs in computers are fairly decent, and the the built in amps are not terrible for headphones up to 32-80 ohm range. But once you get into those high ohm, you have to get an amp.

I think you nailed it.... I'd bet that's a headphone output port on the stereo system... most stereos use L/R (red and white plugs) RCA jacks for audio input... try those stereo ports in the back with a 3.5mm to (L/R) RCA cable...

This cable

Edit: Easy test with zero monies spent... cut the stereos fm radio on and plug headphone in... if you get audio out of the headphones it's an output jack.

For cords/wires you will need a RCA to 3.5mm cable something like this to connect your amp to your pc. You will also need 3 speaker cables such as these 1 for your amp to sub and assuming your sub will have a high level input and output, you will connect the other 2 cables to the sub and out to the speakers.

You could also make your own speaker cables as well which is a little cheaper by using this

For sub wise, I would consider a Dayton audio sub 800 or 1000 as a start.

You really can't use that AMP-100 to power headphones but you do have the choice to run the headphones directly from the UCA202 DAC or pass the signal to any of the FiiO Headphone amplifiers with one of these cables.

Speakers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00081NX5U/
Amp(protect this from elements): http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00W9H9W42/
Wire (electrical tape ends after setup): http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006LW0WDQ/
Power Supply: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XDNDPT4/
Power Cable (opt): http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005J5ZL0A/

$102

An active adapter is not a cord. It's a box.

• https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-002B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U

https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Adapter-Converter-DP2DVID2/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542391727&sr=8-3&keywords=displayport+dvi+active

One like that. There are similar ones available elsewhere.

Yes, just make sure to use an active converter. The passive (unpowered) ones can't pass enough bandwidth to the monitor to drive 1920x1080@144hz. I have three of the active connectors and they work fine. Expensive, though! (~ $100).

Here's an Amazon link for the ones I use:
https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Dual-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

For 1440p / 120Hz (or for situations like mine, with a higher resolution 2560x1600 / 60Hz panel) you'll need an active Displayport to DVI-D adapter (along with a proper dual link DVI-D cable). The common <$30 adapters are all passive DVI-I single link and max out at around 1920x1200 / 60Hz.

The two active adapters that pop up as generally reliable are the Dell Bizlink XT625 and the Startech DP2DVID2. They run between $75 and $120 depending on the retailer.

Yes but you need to get a $100 adapter for 144Hz support

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A493CNY

Cheaper adapters do not work for 144Hz. This is why it's not recommended to buy a 144Hz monitor without DisplayPort.

I haven't had any issues. HDMI, being digital, would have noticeable "blocking" instead of an overall degradated signal and I haven't seen any issues.

Most devices should output enough power via HDMI to not need it; but, it does have an a/c input just in case. My ps3/fire stick/FIOS cable box all work with it without needing another power source.

I use this one, btw:

https://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-Switcher-Key-Press-Switching-support/dp/B00B46XUQU

It'll automatically default to ports based on power and placement. So, you'd plug an "always on" device like your cable box into input 1. Then, if you have your ps3 in input 2 or 3, it'll automatically switch when you turn it on.

Splitters are going to be more of like a 2 to one sort of thing and my experience are not as reliable, if you’re looking to use it for game consoles I’d definitely go with an HDMI switch box like this one and that way you can utilize auto-switching features (if you were playing your PlayStation last and then you come back later and want to play your Xbox, you can turn your Xbox on and it will automatically switch inputs). You can also get more consoles hooked up with a switchbox (most switch boxes are 3 in 1 out, I have a 4 in 2 out, some even go up to 8 in). Just a thought!

a Splitter, takes the same HDMI signal and sends it to 2 Output devices.

a Switch, Takes Multiple HDMI signals and will let you switch between them to go to 1 HDMI input.

you seem to be a little confused about what exactly you need.

Ah okay. Sorry, I thought you just wanted an on/off switch. Ignore my original suggestion. What you are looking for is just commonly known as an "HDMI Switch"/"HDMI Multiplexer"

Something like this. http://www.amazon.com/PORTTA-PET0301S-Switcher-Supports-Wireless/dp/B00B46XUQU

Do you need to do any automation with it?

Just get this guy or something similar.

Had the same exact problem. Solved for $10:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XUQU/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That sounds like a terrible situation. Snaking through a wall that has any turns is next to impossible without opening the wall and gaining access.

An alternate solution: You can get a three way HDMI switch. Put it at the bottom of the wall and plug the other components into it. This sort of thing. There's a bunch to shop through. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B46XUQU/ref=pd_aw_sbs_1?pi=SS115&simLd=1

An under the desk headphone hanger. I see that potted plant, definitely a must have. I notice no mousepad? That looks like a wood table and you would get better response on a mousepad than just the table. I cannot fathom why people like the keyboards without the numbpad but to each there own.

The Anchor

Previous link was to Amazon.co.uk which is probably why he linked you to the US site.

Edit. Have a link

https://www.amazon.com/Anchor-ORIGINAL-Under-Desk-Headphone-Stand/dp/B00P31BMHG

sir. please

Nice, a sleek black and white aesthetic. Nothing is out of place here. Glad you went with a mouse mat with a small logo.

I don't have any suggestions really since it's all but perfect. I can offer a potential upgrade or two if you have money that needs spending!

A headphone stand has already been mentioned but the style of headphone stand that you decide to go with is also a consideration. You can get ones that stand on your desk. These are good if you want the headphones to be a point of attention on the desk. They are nice-looking Grados so might be a good idea.

If you want headphones on your desk but not to take up any space then you can get ones that attach to the edge like this or to the underside of the desk like this.

If you don't want them to be anywhere near the desk then you can find wall mounted ones or something you can stick to the side of a desk leg if it's wide enough à la this.

If you want a better quality LED bulb for your lamp (because it is a nice lamp!) then it might be worth investing into some high CRI (90+, ideally ~95-97) LED bulbs. They can be expensive but they are very nice. Make sure that you double-check the base type of the bulb already in the lamp before you buy. Yuji LED sell what are probably the best LED bulbs you can buy right now. You can also choose between colour temperature. If you only use the lamp during the evening then go for the 3000K option for a warmer colour.

For a future and more expensive investment (that could also become a hobby), you should look into buying or building a custom mechanical keyboard. Your setup would love it! Check out /r/MechanicalKeyboards if you're interested.

Hope this helps!

Miles.

Super cheap and works like a charm.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P31BMHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The product link is here:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P31BMHG/ref=cm_cr_rev_prod_title

This is really a great "stand". Super affordable, great quality, and saves space. It doesn't look "cool" as some of the other table-top stands, but personally I find it working really well as I am sure I'd grow tired of seeing a headphone on my table.

Nope, it's this guy: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P31BMHG

Looking good, but I have two inexpensive suggestions: get this for a PC stand and get this for your headphones

I just received the glass stand and I like it a lot, used it to raise up my monitor and free up space for my keyboard and my backup HDD. It'd fit/look a whole lot better than that silly AC retail box ;)

These are the ones I have.

I really recommend them, they make the headphones feel completely different. I have larger ears and they actually fit inside of the pads now.


Here is another picture, the stock ones are on the inside

You can try replacing the ear cup pads with something like this

Brainwavz Hybrid Memory Foam Earpad - Black PU/Velour - Suitable for Large Over The Ear Headphones - AKG, HifiMan, ATH, Philips, Fostex https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZGGG3KY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ezopDbSJMT9MR

These are the pads I purchased.

> doesn't cover the ears that well at all

You could always get better pads. It should decrease the shallowness as well. Youd be surprised at the quality increase from new pads. Try the brainwavz hybrid pads they will fit right on the m50x.

Thanks I really like the SS of my M40x and don't want to lose out on any more bass. Got these hybrid ones for 6 bucks more and canceled my previous order.

Taking a look, you may or may not be aware of this

You may consider a 525gb mx300 for your ssd but other than that it looks really good for what you want.

https://www.amazon.com/Steam-Link-Pc/dp/B016XBGWAQ

Here is my build list formated for reddit

Group | Name | Price | Quantity | Total | Link
--- | --- | --- | --- | --- | ---
Pc | (Everything Inside the case) | | | |
$1,601.62 | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $347.00 | 1 | $347.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012M8LXQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Cooler Master Hyper D92 54.8 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler | $44.80 | 1 | $44.80 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NXLYE4G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $171.49 | 1 | $171.49 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012N6EW6G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $129.99 | 1 | $129.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OTJZTZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.99 | 1 | $97.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAJ412U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Hitachi HD​S723020BLA​642 | $58.00 | 3 | $174.00 | EBay
| EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $459.99 | 1 | $459.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I60OGUK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| EVGA 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $90.39 | 1 | $90.39 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYK1CC6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| XFX AMD Radeon HD 5450 1GB | $29.99 | 2 | $59.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005IUW7YE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| PWM Female to 4 x PWM Male Computer Case Fan Splitter | $6.50 | 2 | $13.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DYQRFY6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Sabrent 2.5" SSD & SATA Hard Drive to Desktop 3.5" | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UN550AC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 80MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 2 | $0.00 |
| 92MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 4 | $0.00 |
Monitors | | | | |
$744.66 | Seiki Pro SM28UTR 28-Inch 4K UHD 3840x2160 | $195.69 | 1 | $195.69 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013XWQF28/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| AOC e2460Sd 24-Inch Widescreen LED Monitor | $142.99 | 3 | $428.97 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C99MUHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Dell 17" 5:4 | $30.00 | 4 | $120.00 | EBay
Cables | | | | |
$137.77 | Cable Matters Gold Plated DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable 10 Feet | $11.99 | 1 | $11.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H3Q5E0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Cable Matters Active DisplayPort to DVI Male to Female Adapter | $19.99 | 2 | $39.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT01TO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| DVI Male to Female 90 Degree Adapter Connector | $4.43 | 3 | $13.29 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008X0ZJZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 15ft 28AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable - Black | $10.47 | 3 | $31.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2760&seq=1&format=2
| 15ft Super VGA M/M | $5.69 | 4 | $22.76 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10201&cs_id=1020101&p_id=3622&seq=1&format=2
| 15ft USB 2.0 A Male to A Female Extension | $1.87 | 5 | $9.35 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030304&p_id=5435&seq=1&format=2
| 25ft hdmi cable | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SKVMHI4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Desk Accesseries | | | | |
$263.49 | Perixx PX-5200 Cherry MX Blue | $72.91 | 1 | $72.91 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NY45NCY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Logitech C310 Webcam | $31.93 | 1 | $31.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LVZO8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Lapel Mics | $6.50 | 1 | $6.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJOIHE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| FingerPrint Reader | $12.58 | 1 | $12.58 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHHP7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Mouse Pad | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GB0IF50/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Headset Func HS260 | $79.99 | 1 | $79.99 | https://www.amazon.com/FUnc-FUNC-HS-260-1ST-fUnc-HS-260/dp/B00HH3H83U
| Altec ACS 54 - Speaker | $0.00 | 1 | $0.00 |
| Logitech G700S | $50.59 | 1 | $50.59 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BFOEY3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Audio Accesseries | | | | |
$58.33 | BEHRINGER MICROAMP HA400 | $24.99 | 1 | $24.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KIPT30/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 5-Pack 6.35mm Male to 3.5mm Female Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAQD4YA/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3.5mm Male to 2 x 3.5mm Female Splitter Cable | $3.99 | 1 | $3.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081ZBNI4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Coupler 3.5 mm Female - 3.5 mm Female Stereo or Mono | $3.93 | 1 | $3.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O4N/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3 feet Slim 3.5mm Stereo Audio Cable - M/M | $2.71 | 2 | $5.42 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G3UK5C/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3-Feet 3.5mm Stereo Male to Female Extension Cable, 5-Pack | $12.01 | 1 | $12.01 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWOJLSS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lighting | | | | |
$86.88 | Studio Designs Swing Arm Lamp Black | $24.75 | 2 | $49.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2S7MHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Lutron TT-300NLH-BL Credenza Lamp Dimmer Black | $14.83 | 1 | $14.83 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00024BJZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Triple Outlet Swivel Adapter, White | $3.27 | 1 | $3.27 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HJBENG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Daylight LED Light Bulb 15W | $9.64 | 2 | $19.28 | https://www.walmart.com/ip/Great-Value-GVRLA1850ND-Great-Value-LED-15W-A19-Light-Bulb/38596922
Cable Managment | | | | |
$18.81 | 100 Velcro Ties | $5.00 | 2 | $10.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 100 Releasable cable ties | $2.47 | 3 | $7.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10520&cs_id=1052012&p_id=5795&seq=1&format=2
| Cable Clip nais | $0.70 | 2 | $1.40 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10520&cs_id=1052006&p_id=5834&seq=1&format=2
Power | | | | |
$53.13 | Monster MP AV 750 Audio Video PowerCenter | $18.99 | 1 | $18.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ETIKH8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| AmazonBasics 6-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip 2-Pack | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TP1BWMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3 Outlet Single-Tap Wall Tap | $4.00 | 2 | $8.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XQORTO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 15ft 16AWG Power Cord Cable | $5.20 | 1 | $5.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022801&p_id=5287&seq=1&format=2
| 10ft 18AWG Right Angle Power Cord Cabl | $2.65 | 3 | $7.95 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022809&p_id=7677&seq=1&format=2
Network | | | | |
$33.98 | TP-LINK 8-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch | $22.99 | 1 | $22.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EVGIYG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 5-Pack, Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable in Blue 3 Feet | $10.99 | 1 | $10.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C2B81K6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Monitor Mount | | | | |
$215.27 | Arm wall mount | $17.54 | 3 | $52.62 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=12232&seq=1&format=2
| Top wall mount bracket | $4.80 | 4 | $19.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=3005&seq=1&format=2
| Center Monitor Mount | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=4564&seq=1&format=2
| 2x8 | $7.47 | 3 | $22.41 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Top-Choice-Common-2-in-x-8-in-x-10-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-7-25-in-x-10-ft-Lumber/4082916
| 2x4 | 2.55 | 1 | $2.55 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-2-in-x-4-in-x-8-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-3-5-in-x-8-ft-Stud/1000074211
| 3" clamp | $5.98 | 6 | $35.88 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-3-in-Clamp/50214643
| 4" Hinge | $2.81 | 2 | $5.62 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-4-in-H-Oil-Rubbed-Bronze-Interior-Exterior-Mortise-Door-Hinge/4772785
| Wood Screws | $9.00 | 1 | $9.00 | Lowes
| Assorted brackets/hardware | $25.00 | 1 | $25.00 | Lowes
| Case Rack Mount | $35.00 | 1 | $35.00 | EBay
Misc | | | | |
$35.97 | Steam Link | $19.99 | 1 | $19.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Bluetooth Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | GRANDCOW Bluetooth 4.0 USB Adapter Dongle for Windows 10/ 8.1 / 8/ 7 / Vista / XP
| 19 Key Numeric Keypad | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJSAAU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But the steam link is new for $20...

https://www.amazon.com/Steam-Link/dp/B016XBGWAQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487809244&sr=8-1&keywords=steam+link

A Steam Link will run you $30 on Amazon.

https://smile.amazon.com/Steam-Link-Pc/dp/B016XBGWAQ/ref=smi_www_rco2_go_smi_g2609328962?_encoding=UTF8&%2AVersion%2A=1&%2Aentries%2A=0&ie=UTF8

Do you already have a nice gaming PC?

$50 - Steam Link

• Details - http://store.steampowered.com/app/353380/
  
• Amazon link for cheaper/faster shipping http://www.amazon.com/Steam-Link-Pc/dp/B016XBGWAQ
  
• Can use a wide variety of controllers and will use the power of your gaming PC. Xbox360/XBOne/PS4/WiiUPro/SteamController
  
• Wired ethernet at your PC and at the TV is recommended.
  
  --------------------------
  
  Don't already have a gaming PC?
  
  
  If act like a console, but play anything available on PC:
  
  PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
  
  Type|Item|Price
  :----|:----|:----
  CPU | Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $181.83 @ Amazon
  Motherboard | Biostar Hi-Fi B85N 3D Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard | $71.98 @ Newegg
  Memory | PNY Anarchy 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $32.99 @ Amazon
  Storage | PNY CS1211 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $59.99 @ Amazon
  Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 950 2GB Dual WindForce Video Card | $149.99 @ Amazon
  Case | Silverstone Sugo SG13B Mini ITX Tower Case | $39.99 @ Amazon
  Power Supply | EVGA 430W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply | $32.74 @ Amazon
  | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
  | Total | $569.51

I just wanted to post these two links...

eBay with Free shipping($25): http://www.ebay.com/itm/112036760697
Amazon Used ($33.45): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/ol/B016XBGWAQ/ref=mw_dp_olp?ie=UTF8&condition=all

It's also still available at Amazon.

Correct.

This is all you need for speaker wire for those speakers if you are not running them more than 25 ft from the amp. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Audio-Stereo-Speaker/dp/B006LW0WDQ/ref=sr_1_4

RCA cables do not have to be expensive. These cables will work fine https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8JW0/

If you have the room for it, the best deal on amplification is often to look for a used audio video receiver on your local Craigslist. People tend to upgrade AVRs that are ~ 10 years old in order to buy the latest models that support Dolby Atmos ceiling speakers. If your video card has an extra HDMI out, you can also run audio to an AVR using that instead of RCA cables.

Or did you have a separate budget for the amplifier?

College kid here, I'll try to help out.

It's generally recommended that you don't ever go for a HTIAB (home theater in a box) as they come with super shitty components and most often don't leave room to upgrade.

You'll get more flexibility and bang for your buck with bookshelves and a sub, but as you mentioned you only want a 2.0 for right now. If bass is really that important to you, I would actually recommend you get a pair of bookshelves now and invest in a sub later on. Towers are great but for a 2.0 setup you're going to want something smaller with better sound quality.

 

---

Bookshelves: used Polk Signature S15's

>Top listing is $165 for like new speakers; S15's run for $229/pair new.

This listing in particular says "Speakers only, nothing else is included" which is odd for them to mention because I don't think these speakers normally come with any accessories. Maybe he's talking about the manual which can easily be found online. But who needs manuals anyway?

 

Amp: SMSL SA-50

>Price fluctuates between $63 and $69. This listing is $63.

Puts out 50 wpc, will power pretty much any speaker you throw at it. I owned this myself and recommend it for a first setup. Just keep in mind you will have to upgrade to a surround receiver if you ever want to move past 2.1 in the future.

---

 


This puts you at $228 shipped. A bit above your absolute max of $200, but this is probably your best bet. You're also going to need to buy some speaker wire. It's only like $8.

So in total, this comes to $236 shipped. A bit above your budget, but it leaves you with some kickass bookshelves as well as the ability to add a sub in the future.

vga to dvi adapters are cheap.

Ok, there are 2 different models of a monitor sort of like that. One is pretty much the exact one I linked, and that has a VGA connector(was used on PCs before DVI came into the market). The newer ones(back is totally clear) used ADC(which combines video, usb, and power into one plug). If you have the VGA one you're in luck,you either just plug it right into the VGA port on your computer, or if you only have DVI, you just need a DVI to VGA adapter. Once you get the monitor connected to your computer, you're all set, just boot up the machine, and it should be ready to go. No software or anything is required.

If it's the kind with the ADC adapter, it's really not worth it, since the adapters for those usually go for over $100. You'll be much better off finding someone selling/giving away a used CRT monitor locally



As far as your other questions go;

2. Don't really think there are many safety precautions you need to take, assuming it hasn't been rained on or anything while in storage. I guess be ready to unplug it when you first test it incase the flyback transformer or something inside is smoking. If you don't have any experience with the inside of CRTs, don't go inside it to clean it out or anything, and you'll be fine.

3. not really sure. Maybe if you put it in a garbage bag outside with one of those anti-bug bomb things or whatever, that will get rid of any insects. Not really sure how safe those are for electronics. Maybe someone else can chime in?

4. Only a little crazy :-P

Then you need a DVI to VGA adapter to plug in to your graphics card.

A lot of the time your motherboard or your graphics card will include this adapter.

>I got this basic indoor antenna off Amazon.

You could probably get better reception with ye olde $10 RCA antenna.

Find out if your local public library uses Hoopla (a Netflix-like service that has movies, TV shows, audio books, etc.) and if it does, get yourself a free library card and you will have a nice library of movies and shows at your disposal. My local library just became a part of this last week so I've only begun exploring it, but it's pretty sweet. And free.


If you have a friend who has Comcast or a similar cable provider, ask nicely for their log-in and you can stream some live cable TV channels and have access to almost-full current TV series. My father was kind enough to lend me his username and password, but I admit that I rarely use this for anything other than watching films that haven't yet arrived on Netflix or Amazon Prime.


And, obviously, get yourself an OTA. I have this one on one TV and this one on another TV. Both are great, and both are inexpensive.

agreed. torrents for tv shows are illegal im assuming?

anyway, i am close to NYC as well (20 mi.) and using this antenna (http://www.amazon.com/RCA-ANT111F-Basic-Indoor-Antenna/dp/B000HKGK8Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1409327444&sr=8-2&keywords=rca+antenna) with no luck.

wondering if i did something wrong.

For local news: http://smile.amazon.com/RCA-ANT111F-Basic-Indoor-Antenna/dp/B000HKGK8Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1415372867&sr=8-4&keywords=rabbit+ears

Its just local broadcast channels that are already free through an antenna which can be had for the same cost as one month of the service.

Any old pair of rabbit ears will get you all the Chicago stations from where you are. No need to get anything more expensive than these.

A basic indoor antenna should be able to pull in a lot. I have [this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HKGK8Y) and get my channels a similar distance out from the broadcast towers. Obviously YMMV is the name of the game with antennas, but you can always return it if it doesn't work for you. Looking at that report though, I'd start as cheap as possible and only swap for higher quality if you run into difficulty

This one. If you're interested.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HKGK8Y/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this one ($8, Amazon Prime) and it works great. I'm watching PBS right now.

1. As mentioned elsewhere, the BD pads are great. http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-EDT250V-Headphone-Pads-Black/dp/B0016MF7W2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410187952&sr=8-1&keywords=edt250
   
   
2. Never tried and never looked.
   
   
3. If you bought them used, so used that the pads are worn, wouldn't the burn-in opportunity be long gone?

Absolutely, and I don't think it would look bad with black pads on white headphones personally.

Here are the ones I bought. They took a little effort to put on there, but are very snug and don't move around. (The amazon picture isn't correct, as it looks like they are the plastic/leather pads, but what you get is the velour) http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016MF7W2/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These Shure pads apparently work as well, although I don't have any experience with them. Looking at the reviews they seem like they fit a little bit looser and can freely spin a little bit. http://smile.amazon.com/Shure-HPAEC940-Replacement-Velour-Headphones/dp/B005OM06RG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395931310&sr=8-1&keywords=srh+840+velour

When I get home tonight, I can take some pictures of them on my M50's if you'd like. I love them and well worth the $20 I say.

A few years ago a rebrand of these came out called NX-HTDJ with velour pads + headband. I picked up a pair for $12 and they're amazing. Unfortunately it looks like they aren't being manufactured anymore.

DT 250 pads will fix the 8323's but they cost about $25.

A nice alternative is the Beyerdynamic DT250 Velour Pads. They fit both the M50 and pro700mk2 (though it takes a bit of wiggling).

These are either MDR-7506 or the MDR-V6 and either way, you have a stellar pair of headphones right there. I roll the MDR-7506 myself and for the money, you won't find a better technical listening experience. If you replace your pads with the Beyerdynamic Velour Earcups you will find slightly better isolation, increased comfort, and even clearer bass. Here's a link to them on Amazon, but shop around: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016MF7W2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_LNbZub1T1DBBB

You'll need to pry off the old ones along the edges. Once you get a bit off, the rest should slide off with it. Just be gentle with the edges so you don't bend anything out of shape and harm the isolation quality.

Just thought this would be fun to do.

(from left to right, top to bottom)

2009 13" Macbook Pro w/ 256 GB SSD

Pentel GraphGear 1000

Moleskine Notebook

Nebo Redline

Bolle Anaconda

Time Easy Reader

Ultimate Ears TripleFi 10

Boy Scouts Swiss Army Knife (not sure which model)

Audio-Technica M50 with EDT250 pads

Nintendo Wallet from NYC Nintendo World

Insulated 20oz Klean Kanteen

Kenneth Cole Reaction Bag

Arbor Bandana (as a face mask for cold days)

iPhone 4S

S-Biner

Keys (glowing tritium, apt, mail, bike, lockbox, utili-key, LED, room, car keys)

You can roll the Beyerdynamic DT250 Pads.

http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-Velour-Earcushions-MDR7506-Headphones/dp/B0016MF7W2

They fit surprisingly well and they're velour to boot.

EDIT: Maybe it goes without saying, but I have these on mine. Look here for pics.

http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/ele/3220450140.html

I have had mine since 2007.

When your ear pads die- they will die either by disintegrating or splitting at the seams, you can buy these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016MF7W2/

They will fit your headphones, and are velour. A bit more comfortable I think too.

These things are tanks, and while they may get uncomfortable if you wear glasses, they will last a long, long time through much abuse.

I have flown countless times with them, and they still work flawlessly.

Put the velour pads on mine about a month after I got them, can't recommend this enough. The headphones are super comfy now and don't wear on my ears during long use.

For reference: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016MF7W2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes actually I got the flaking right around the 4 year mark as well. Following instructions I found on a forum, I replaced the original pads with some Beyerdynamic pads , and it was just as good as new!

[Edit] here's a video showing you the process of replacing the pads.

That won't work, this will
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

But in all seriousness yes it will hah.

They only sound terrible because you're not using the right Monster cables.

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-1m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4 best cable on the market.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

This one...

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

read the reviews. it cures cancer. makes a 480 tv a 2160. i also hear it gives blowjobs

Needed more diamond

Edit: MOAR !!

Here's a 3 ft one that costs more than $1000: https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

They also have a 52 ft version: https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/

People use those cheap $400 cables? I guess some people just don't care about real quality.

I highly recommend using this USB cable. It really is the only way to make your charging port last longer.

AudioQuest Diamond 2m (6.56 feet) Braided HDMI Cable only $1,000.00 USD on Amazon.
Link:
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

> I was very amused by the claims of these guys, saying that reflective light was easier on the eyes... such a load of crap.

You OBVIOUSLY haven't spent a lot of time with the technology then, or haven't used the proper equipment. Properly reflected light, reflected off a alloyed gold (or better yet, platinum) based reflector, through a diamond refractor will produce a VERY crisp image that you can look at for hours with no strain. The benefit of using platinum instead of gold is that gold provides just a hit of coloring, whereas platinum provides all the warmth of gold with more accurate colors, but some people just like to cheap out.

Geeze, next you'll be spouting off about how my AudioQuest HDMI Cables are no better than some Amazon Basic crap. :D

Peasants won't know about my glorious HDMI Cable!

Make sure to get this Diamond HDMI cable to get a 144Hz 4K signal!

Luxottica's market behavior clearly has some pretty serious effects on the price of an essential medical device, which you acknowledge.

I would estimate markups far higher than 200-300%, though. The wholesale prices of Luxottica's products look like retail prices for other products with similar supply chains, produced by manufacturers with far less verticality and negotiating power. Lets be realistic: competitively durable and fashionable eyeglasses could realistically retail in the $25-$50 range, sans lenses.

I would encourage you to consider what the loss or destruction of a pair of glasses by a kid who needs them can do to a struggling family's monthly budget, before you conclude that this sort of markup doesn't have fairly enormous negative social effects.

>Do we say that even though high-end clothes/accessories/etc. charge a huge markup that the consumers are being exploited?

Where each individual draws the line will probably differ, but I think most would agree that it certainly can be exploitative. I don't think that one factor is enough to dispositively conclude that an act is or is not exploitative.

You'll need an amplifier, copper speaker wire, and a cable to attach to your computer (typically 3.5 mm to RCA). Typically, you need to buy things separately.

I happen to have an RCA Audio Out port on my TV that I pass directly to headphones. Everything is wired and I just calibrate to that.

If you don't have those, you might want to look into an HDMI Audio Extractor. I know it's not exactly a software fix with your current setup, but shouldn't be too pricey to get working.

How about a HDMI audio extractor? That way it stays digital until it gets to the Sonos DAC. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jD4eAbDD15YSG

The thing you're looking for is called an HDMI audio extractor. This one extracts the audio to optical 5.1 or RCA stereo.

you could use an hdmi audio extractor to extract the 5.1 and send it via an optical TOSLINK cable that your receiver supports: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E

Yep here is what you need:
http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421170441&sr=8-2&keywords=hdmi+to+toslink&pebp=1421170442563&peasin=B00BIQER0E.

Alternatively, you can use the audio output from your tv if your tv has one. However that requires that you keep your tv on when listening to just music.

Has anyone considered getting a regular Chromecast instead of a Chromecast Audio and using one of these HDMI Audio Extractors (https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E) to cast just the audio?

Another option- I'm linking the one I got below. It is like $14, but the cheap ones seemed to have really mixed reviews, to say the least, so I went with the Sennheiser one with muchhh better reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0

A little bit before handing the mixamp off to my roommate to use. You need an adapter to plug into a mixamp. This guy worked for me. In the end, I found myself abandoning the mixamp altogether though. It's a cool idea, but I just found the quality level of the execution lacking.

I use a ModMic 5 with my Sennheiser HD 650.

This adapter to split.

This cable to make it less annoying

The cable doesn't seem to be in stock anymore, but you get the idea.

Plug the cable into your controller, the splitter into the cable, the mic into the mic input of the splitter, and your headphones into the headphone input of the splitter.

Make sure any cables you get are 4-pole so it supports stereo audio plus the microphone.

The mic is detachable (magnetic) and looks like this attached.

Sennheiser 598's with Antlion modmic. Amazing pair of headphones with a detachable mic to avoid strange looks in public. You will need this splitter as well!

Headphones http://www.amazon.com/AKG-Signature-Reference-Class-Premium-Headphones/dp/B004444OFK

Mixamphttp://www.amazon.com/ASTRO-Gaming-MixAmp-Pro-playstation-2/dp/B00NY5ZNZA/ref=dp_ob_title_vg

Modmic you can go mute or muteless. I wont make a difference because the stereo adapter has a nice mute button that I prefer to use http://www.modmic.com/collections/frontpage

Splitter http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0/ref=pd_sim_pc_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0P7SSBZ9NW8RXTMV64YC

Chat Adapter http://www.amazon.com/Xbox-One-Stereo-Headset-Adapter/dp/B00OIPOTYG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1419560523&sr=1-1&keywords=xbox+stereo+headset+adapter

Amp if absolutely needed. I would wait to be sure http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E6-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005HJWWW8/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1419560465&sr=1-2&keywords=fiio

Grab a mod mic and one of theesse and you should be good to go https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0

Link 1. Link 2. Don't go to this link.

edit: I don't know what either of you are talking about, but I am going to make a guess. https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0/

There's a specific splitter you can get, lemme try and find it, that separates the mic inline and headphone. Allowing you to use a modmic.

Edit: it's a Sennheiser PCV 05 Combo Audio Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IM36VU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2UFQzbBZE7E05

You could use a y cable and plug in whatever you want - https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0

If you want to hear footsteps get the Game One*, they're open backed so you get a better soundstage which is exactly what you need for positioning footsteps.

From what I read make sure you get the 50 Ohm version as the 150 Ohm version you wouldn't be able to drive very well via the controller, but all new versions are the 50 Ohm so you should be fine. I'm not sure how the cable is but if it's a split microphone and headphone jack (which I assume it is seeing as this is in the frequently bought together thing) you'll need to get this: http://amzn.com/B00IM36VU0

* thanks for the correction /u/jtredd

Should be able to use something like this with the PS4’s optical out.

plenty out there, eg https://www.amazon.com/Orb-Audio-Booster-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B017J6K598

That said, you may just want a 12v DAC and then a separate amp, instead of trying to get two in one. here's a 5v: https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0

PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Optical to Analog L/R RCA Converter Toslink Optical to 3.5mm Jack Audio Adapter for PS3 Xbox HD DVD PS4 Amps Apple TV Home Cinema https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DHt5CbCZFA5KC

Here's one from Amazon you won't be able to use chat or anything though only sound

So here's the deal. The TCL outputs audio externally via two methods. Either Optical digital audio out (toslink), or a headphone port. SO that leaves you utilizing one of those two ports.

​

• If you want to use the headphone port, you need a 3.5mm Male to Stereo RCA Male. Such as THIS. you plug the headphone (3.5mm) end into the TV, the RCAs into your crappy soundbar.
  
• Otherwise, to use the Digital output on the television, you need a DAC. You need a device to convert a digital signal from the tv (Toslink, aka Optical) to an analog signal (RCA Male-to-Male). You would run an Optical Cable from the TV to A DAC such as this, and then use the RCA Male-to-Male cables you presumably already have.
  
  ​
  
  In the future you'd be better served posting in r/soundbars . We really should get THAT subreddit going, and stop polluting r/hometheater with simplistic questions like this :)
  
  
  Good luck!

Sure here you go:

Remote: Start off with the a cheap optical DAC. This one includes an optical cable and runs $15. Use RCA cables to plug the DAC into this remote volume control. Plug both your volume control unit and your Phono preamp into any RCA switcher. Literally any cheap rca switcher will work just fine as long as it has at east two inputs and an output.

Knob: Start with the same optical DAC. Purchase one of the many variations of this thing. Just use an RCA to XLR cable to connect your Dac to the knob. The JDS labs OL Switcher also works, and you would use 3.5mm to RCA cables in that case.

That optical cable doesn't convert the signal into something that your headphones can use, it is simply 2 different types of optical plugs at the ends.

This is the kind of thing you need, https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1482430996&sr=8-5&keywords=Optical+to+3.5mm

If you want audio out of the PS4 you'll need to connect into the optical out.

You'll need one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502680031&sr=8-1&keywords=digital+audio+to+analog

Connect this into the Optical Out to the PS4 and set the Optical as the audio device in the settings. Then you'll connect your headphones to the device.

Here is the one I use, works fine for the toslink out.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_k1oRDbFA92XG8

Do you have optical out on your motherboard? I had this issue for so long and finally fixed it with an optical to 3.5mm box like this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0

I also use an old Fiio E6 and that's great for the price too, though there're probably better options at this point.

Not sure if im allowed go direct link it but

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_0N.XCbQ5HG5CC

And that's for "output"? No. In fact, looking a the specs, it seems to have SPDIF (optical) out though. Also says that it has a headphone jack (but I wonder if it's the crummy thing that might be on the remote, like with other Roku devices).

If so, you can buy devices to convert optical SPDIF to something else. In my case I wanted a mini-jack. I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KNNSKV0

OP can correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like this headphone hanger on amazon

Headphones:

• AKG K612 Pro
  
• AKG K701
  
• AKG K702
  
• Audio-Technica ATH-AD700x
  
• Audio-Technica ATH-AD900x
  
• Beyerdynamic DT880
  
• Beyerdynamic DT990
  
• Philips Fidelio X2
  
• Sennheiser HD558/HD579
  
• Sennheiser HD598/HD599
  
  Headsets:
  
  
• Massdrop x Sennheiser PC37X
  
• Sennheiser Game One
  
  

  
  

  
  I have Audio-Technica ATH-AD700X, Beyerdynamic DT990 (600 ohms), Philips Fidelio X2 and Sennheiser HD598 of these.
  
  AD700X has subdued sub-bass and emphasized treble. It has clean bass and a little harsh treble. It has a huge soundstage, excellent imaging, separation and clarity, and great detail retrieval.
  
  DT990 has subdued sub-bass, emphasized mid-bass and very emphasized treble. It has clean bass and a little sharp and splashy treble. It has a huge soundstage and excellent imaging, separation, clarity and detail retrieval.
  
  Fidelio X2 has emphasized sub-bass, mid-bass and treble. It has clean bass and, as far as I remember, smooth treble. (The stock earpads caused channel imbalance, so I discarded them around a year ago, and haven't bought new stock earpads yet.) The soundstage is very wide, like the others I've mentioned, but it lacks some depth. It's probably only noticeable if you play competitively or compare it side-by-side with headphones that are deeper. This affects the imaging from front to back. The imaging from left to right is excellent. Separation and clarity are excellent. Detail retrieval is great, but the bass overpowers/masks sound cues a lot.
  
  HD598 has subdued sub-bass and is mid-forward. It has clean bass, smooth treble, and excellent clarity. I haven't used it much, so my impressions are that it has a large soundstage and good imaging, separation and detail retrieval.
  
  

  
  

  
  K701 and K702 are too hard to drive for the MixAmp. K612 might be loud enough, but is said to sound much better with a dedicated headphone amplifier. You can use an amp with the MixAmp. You'd need a 3.5mm-to-RCA cable and a TRRS Y-splitter. The featured amp is Schiit Magni, which has been replaced by Magni 3 and is a very powerful amp. It can also drive the 600-ohm version of DT990 and DT880.
  
  To use an amp without the MixAmp, you'd need a DAC (digital-to-analog converter), e.g. FiiO D3, Schiit Modi 2 Uber or Topping D30. There's a common problem with reversed left and right channels when using USB DACs, so use one with optical unless the product officially supports PS4. You'd need an RCA-to-RCA cable to connect the amp to the DAC. You could use a DAC-amp instead, like Micca Origen G2. It can't be connected to the MixAmp, only separate amps can.

First double check that your PC doesn't have a combo jack (3.5mm analog and 3.5mm optical in the same port). a lot of modern PCs (especially macs) have this and if that's the case this is your best bet for audio. This is what you'd want.

​

If you're using HDMI output (especially if you're using a receiver or multiple HDMI inputs), something like this is a good choice.

​

If not, your next best bet is a internal soundcard with optical output (like this one) if it's a desktop, or an external USB soundcard with an optical output if it's a laptop (like this one).

​

If neither of these work, and/or you're on a device that only has a 3.5mm analog output and nothing else, you can use one of these with one of these adapters. It's known as an analog to digital converter (ADC) and will take in analog (RCA/3.5mm) and convert it to a digital format like optical. This isn't super recommended, as it add extra conversion steps to the process and will reduce the sound quality of your soundbar somewhat unless you pay out extra money for a high quality professional ADC.

Connect a cable like the following (3.5 mm to RCA) from your motherboard's line out to the Magni 2:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0

Max out the volume in Windows, and then use the Magni 2's knob to adjust the volume up and down, going forward.

It's easy: get a cassette deck if you don't already have one, then a stereo cable with a 3.5MM plug on one end and two RCA plugs on the other, like this. Connect your phone to the input jacks on the deck, play your music (Spotify, etc.) at about 80% volume, and set the record level on the deck so the peaks are at 0db and make a test recording. If it sounds OK to you on playback (no obvious distortion) then you're good: make those playlists and start cranking out tapes.

If your files are on a PC/laptop (rather than a phone) and you don't want to transfer them the process is still the same-- just plug that 3.5mm plug into your headphone jack on the computer.

And output is exactly that. It outputs sound. Your Chromecast needs an INPUT because it is sending sound IN to your receiver. You need a 3.5mm to RCA adapter cable. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8JW0/ref=twister_B01MDKJXCH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You can pick on up at radioshack or wal mart.

Then you plug the 3.5mm end into your Chromecast and the RCA ends into your CD or DVD inputs that show in your folder.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D5H8JW0/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1521569641&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=3.5mm+to+rca&dpPl=1&dpID=51FIuNodkWL&ref=plSrch

No problem. I have my living room PC connected to both a 75" tv and a 23" monitor. Here are a few headaches I went through you can avoid:

1- Dual monitors only work well in duplicate mode.

2- CableCARD and dual monitors don't work well thanks to the fuckwits that implemented DRM. If you're using dual monitors (say, with a desk near your tv), use a splitter such as this one which enables use of both screens.

3- If you're going to use WMC as a movie jukebox, use these instructions to enable playback of .mkv files.

4- You can use Remote Media Center to stream all video, music, pics and even live tv from your home to any Android/iOS/browser, regardless of where you are, but you'll need a minimum of 2.2GHz dual core and 8GB of RAM (basically any these days current PC outside of an Atom or AMD E-series processor-equipped one), along with a web connection with no less than 5MB/s upstream for it to work effectively.

5- You'll never find a truly-perfect all-in-one remote. I have a full keyboard and mouse at the desk, and use this as a couch keyboard/mouse combo, and this as a remote. This remote isn't available yet in the U.S., but seems to perform the function of all 3 (remote/KB/mouse). Stay away from cheap all-in-ones from amazon. I've gone through 8 of them.

The thing you are presently using will definitely not work. It's the "wrong way". You have 3 Inputs and 1 output. The goal of the splitter you are trying to use is to plug multiple devices in 1 tv. For example, plugging 1 Xbox one, 1 Xbox 360 and a Blueray player in the 3 "Inputs", and the "Outputs" goes in the TV. Meant to be used with TV that doesn't have enough HDMI input to plug all your stuff.
You will need something more like this: http://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=sr_1_5?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1450792526&sr=1-5&keywords=hdmi+splitter or any splitter that has 1 input and 2 output. Check for that controller range tho to make sure it will work out.

Kvm stands for Keyboard, Video, Mouse and it would do exactly what you're looking for. However it is somewhat pricy.

If you don't mind pressing 3 buttons you could buy an HDMI merger, and have that feed into a splitter, and have a USB splitter.

Basically you'd need these: (Merger) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pPfXzbWDY8YB9

(Splitter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tQfXzbWGDZ84V

(USB Switch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JX3Q28Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jTfXzbJRTASXT

And about 4 HDMI cables.

All in all it should cost you about $100. It's ghetto and would look silly but it will work.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HXFARS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what you need. I have it. It works great.

I use one of these to strip HDCP for recording/streaming with PSTV:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HXFARS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a splitter and it works great. Mine is powered, so I suggest that as well. Heads up, the active monitor gets a 2-3 second black out when you power up the 2nd TV that is receiving the signal. Not a big deal, but can mess you up if playing and don't realize it's coming. Here's the one I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HXFARS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
edit: spehlinng

HDMI Splitter

Capture Card

Hi!

A friend of mine recently bought the Dayton B652-AIR, which sound phenomenal for the price. They're on sale right now for $50 from Parts Express. I haven't heard the basic B652, but the reviews seem to indicate that the AIR models are worth the extra money. They have a better crossover (internal circuitry) and an upgraded tweeter that's supposed to provide smoother treble and more clarity.

Second, you're going to need an amplifier to drive those speakers. Your previous system had a built-in amp. I recommend this little guy which is a barebones amplifier that produces nice clean sound and has a very small footprint and a reasonable price.

It won't amplify your headphones, though.

Something like this receiver would cover all your bases-- provide power to your speakers and your headphones as well.

If I were you, I'd just use an analog cable to attach my source (computer?) to the receiver.

Oh, and you'll need some speaker cable to connect the speakers to the receiver.

http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/onktxsr343/onkyo-tx-sr343-5.1-ch-x-65-watts-bluetooth-a/v-receiver/1.html

+

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Pioneer-SP-BS22-LR-Andrew-Jones-Designed-Bookshelf-Loudspeaker-Pair-/262374745318?

+

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0WDQ/?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1474621439&sr=1-2


You can add a sub later on if you feel the lack. Or just go over budget: http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1200-12-120-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-629

Remember that speaker placement is important. Don't shove them close together below the TV or something. Get stands if you need to. They should at least be to either side of the TV.

You will need an amplifier like this.

That cable is fine, but there are cheaper alternatives on amazon (amazon basics wire I recommend for starters).

You need to hook up your PC to the amplifier through RCA or 3.5mm jack. Then hook up the speaker wire to your speakers.

I have this one: [OREI HD-102 1x2 1 Port HDMI Powered Splitter] (http://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00)

Works great, and I'm using it for this exact purpose.

This is the one you need. I have one and it works perfectly. Not every splitter will do it but this one will. OREI HD-102 1x2 1 Port HDMI Powered Splitter Ver 1.3 Certified for Full HD 1080P & 3D Support (One Input To Two Outputs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mUYYxb8GZKSM0

Buy 10 of these
2 of these
1 of these

and a bunch of HDMI cables

The device you have there is for multiple devices that you switch in between on a single HDMI on your TV so for example:

1. PS4
   
2. XBox
   
3. Switch
   
   and all are connected to the switch but you only have one cable to the TV. What probably is better is to just get a splitter that has one input but multiple outputs like this

https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS

EDIT: Can't promise on the reliable bit though, haven't used this in person.

There are basically three options for GameCube capture:

First option is HDMI. That will get you the best capture quality, but HDMI capture cards are expensive. The Insurrection Industries HDMI adapter for the GameCube that I linked earlier allows you to output both HDMI and S-Video/composite from the GameCube at the same time, so you can have the HDMI going to the capture card and the analog video going to your TV (since speedrunners typically prefer to use CRTs). You don't need a splitter with this setup, just the capture card, HDMI adapter, and an S-Video/composite cable to go to your TV. Now, if you do need/want to use an LCD instead of a CRT, you can either get an HDMI splitter or look for an HDMI capture card that has a passthrough output.

Second option is S-Video. This still looks pretty good if you set it up right with OBS's "retro" deinterlacing option, and it's quite a bit cheaper than HDMI capture. You need a capture card like the GV-USB2 I linked above, an S-Video cable, and a splitter so you can send the signal to both the capture card and your TV. Many CRT TVs have S-Video inputs, newer LCDs might not. You'll also need some male-to-male S-Video and audio cables to connect to the splitter.

Third option is composite video, but it looks really bad so I don't recommend it. Not much cheaper than S-Video anyway.

Honestly I’m not sure if this is any cheaper for you than the other suggested one in this topic, but this one: https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS, I was guided to by a YouTube instructional video and it’s worked for me to record PS3 just fine.

My setup is very simple:
I normally stream capture from my PlayStation 3, PlayStation 4, Xbox 360 and Xbox One. I split my console(s) signal using this splitter. I then capture footage from my console(s) via a Black Magic Intensity Shuttle
For my audio I use a mixer. With a XLR Headset. All audio goes from my mixer to my Macbook Pro or PC using an XLR to USB audio adapter.
Camera is a Go Pro Hero 3+ Black Edition which is captured using a second Black Magic Intensity Shuttle. Its also pretty good with my chroma keying.

www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HXFARS?pc_redir=1410063791&robot_redir=1

I bought this one awhile back for the same reason as you and it works great.

I have this HDMI splitter, which bypasses the HDCP, but apparently OREI has updated it and it now is HDCP compliant. Search around on Amazon, YouTube, or even here on reddit for a splitter that is not HDCP compliant. They definitely exist, it's just a matter of finding the right one. I use mine with an elgato game capture HD, and it works flawlessly. I'd say that's your best bet...who knows when Sony will patch it, it could be months if ever. Good luck dude.

Gotcha. As a last resort I would try an hdmi splitter, they can sometimes help with handshake or even HDCP issues. I know this one for sure bypasses hdcp, but that's likely not your issue. Worth a shot depending how desperate you get. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B005HXFARS/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1493237790&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hdmi+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=412GDbyCYBL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HXFARS/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1496264038&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hdmi+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=412GDbyCYBL&ref=plSrch

So that duplicates the HDMI signal, then you need to convert it to rca, then use a usb signal grabber to get it to the pi. Seems complicated but I don't think there is another way yet.

I'm hoping so too, but I don't think we're gonna have anything to worry about. The one thing I am kinda worried about though is Sony's HDCP. I'm loving Elgato with my Xbox, but, since I'm switching to PS4, I really, really hope I don't have to use component instead of hdmi like people have to with the PS3 due to the HDCP DRM restrictions

And, btw, you should be able to output from the Xbox in 1080p, too. Not sure 720. It's in the settings. I can look if need be.

Edit: got this today and works with ps4.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HXFARS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HXFARS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This will duplicate the signal and output to two different tvs.

Also HDCP compliant

They both should work. Second would be if you want your consoles to go to two sources, first would one only one. When I stream my consoles, specifically PS3, I go from the Console, to HDCP Splitter, to Elgato and then Elgato goes to my PC via USBC and I just use the Capture Software to stream from. I don't even use the HDMI out from the Elgato. At that point tho, you have two sources you could push out from - the Splitter, or the Elgato, so any of those configurations would work.
The only correction to the image I'd make is, instead of a "splitter" that the PS3/PS4 goes to, get an HDMI Switch, to flip between the two as needed.

The problem with trying to record from a PS3 with a capture device through the HDMI is the HDCP, which is basically encryption. If you get a splitter like this or something similar, it can take care of the HDCP for you if you plug it in between the PS3 and the capture device. Make sure you have a TV or monitor plugged into the splitter's other output, though, as the splitter may cause funky things to happen if you don't. Also, you should know that regardless of your bandwidth constraints and such most PS3 games are 720p and not 1080p.

With 150 you can ditch the entire system and build your own little one
buy these speakers, [amp] (http://www.amazon.com/Topping-TP20-MK2-TA2020-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00828UTE4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405116091&sr=1-1&keywords=topping+amplifier), speaker wires and [this cable] (http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Audio-Cable-Splitter-1-Mini/dp/B00004Z5CP/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405116222&sr=1-2&keywords=3.5mm+to+rca). It's a little more than $150 but will worth it.

edit: if you get more space in the future you just add a subwoofer.

Depending on what your source's line-out looks like, you'll need to run either this cable(typical for computers) or this cable (for CD players, tape decks and so on) to the amp's input, and some speaker wire from the amp and the speakers. You can then decide if you like the way it sounds, or if you'll need a better sound card or some crap.

No need for anything more than 18. Can do 16 if it makes you feel better.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0WDQ

100' is like $3 more too

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2/

https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-2020TI-Instruments-TPA3118-Amplifier/dp/B071FJF4FF/

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Audio-Stereo-Speaker/dp/B006LW0WDQ/


You can add a subwoofer at a later date.

I'm doing the exact same thing. This is my plan. (As a disclaimer, I am fairly new and a student of /r/Zeos.)

This Receiver

Front Speakers

Center Speaker

Subwoofer

If that sub is too large for the mobility you want, you could go with this, which is quite a bit smaller.

All that (with the F12) will be around $525.

If you're doing surround, which may limit mobility, I'd throw in a pair of these.

Don't forget some good quality speaker wire and banana plugs make life easier if you want to move it easily.

Correct! However, maybe consider not supporting the evil empire that is Walmart!

Edit: Amazon is actually a little cheaper

https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX8020-TX-8020-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B00EE18O7W/

+

https://www.amazon.com/Wharfedale-Diamond-220-Black/dp/B00OHIZQ50

+

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0WDQ/

+

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YDUZ22/

You'll also need stands so that the speakers' tweeters are at your ear's level. If the accessories going over your budget make the whole thing too expensive, you can get some slightly cheaper speakers such as these: https://www.amazon.com/Debut-Bookshelf-Speakers-Andrew-Jones/dp/B014GSEQ06/

Get a good cheap pair of bookshelf speakers (or smth more expensive) connect them to an amp and either use a splitter cable to plug it directly into mobo's integrated sound or use a usb dac (with rca cables). You will also have to spend some money on speaker wire to connect speakers to amp.

EDIT: another option is to skip amp part and get a pair of powered studio monitors.

You can buy an adapters. What ports does your GPU have ? Does it have DVI? VGA/DVI adapter is pretty easy to find.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-DVI-Cable-Adapter-DVIVGAMF/dp/B000067SOH

Some BIOS will let you run both.

Not necessarily old. VGA is the older way to connect monitors, so I would say it's still up to date. Looks like the video card doesn't take VGA (Blue). You'll need a VGA to DVI adapter to connect it that way.

I believe you can use a DVI to VGA adapter for one monitor and DisplayPort to VGA for the other.

Since that graphics card has DisplayPort out, something like this will work.

However, you can also get something like this.

Something like this would be less of a hassle.

Ice said in this thread that he uses a USB to VGA adapter. His other screen is a TV which I can assume is what is using the HDMI on the 970. This leads me to believe that he plays games on the monitor that goes through the USB to VGA adapter, which is why he is having so many performance issues.


Solution 1 (cheapest): Buy a DVI cable and this adapter.

Solution 2 (expensive): Buy a new monitor. Decently priced monitor recommendation

Cool. So you have a lot of options.

Displayport to HDMI ( my recommendation )

Displayport to VGA

DVI to VGA

You can probably find these at Best Buy too, not these exact ones, but ones that will work.

>it has DVI and HDMI ports on it aswell

Then you can use DVI to VGA adapter for the second display.

Here is an example: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-DVI-Cable-Adapter-DVIVGAMF/dp/B000067SOH

DVI and VGA only, which is also a bit of a drawback. I've used monitors without HDMI ports for so long I usually forget to mention that. It comes only with a VGA cable, so you'll probably have to get your own cable or adapter. I use this little doohickey for one monitor and something like this for the other.

There is DVI/HDMI port. You can get a VGA adapter for it. Btw, the iGPU or onboard graphic is faster/stronger than the Geforce 210 card.

Have you tried re-seating the ram in the other slot? If there are errors the board should have beeped or something.

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-DVI-Cable-Adapter-DVIVGAMF/dp/B000067SOH/

You are supposed to plug you monitor into your video card, not your motherboard. The plug on the motherboard is there only for if you don't have a videocard. You shouldn't use it at all.

You need to have one monitor plugged in to one port so cancel that amazon order.

VGA is obsolete so you shouldn't be using that either. The 270x doesn't even have a VGA port on it. You will need 2 DVI cables and if your monitors are really old and only have VGA ports, you will need 2 DVI-->VGA adapters.

dvi to dsub adapter.

edit: http://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-DVI-Cable-Adapter-DVIVGAMF/dp/B000067SOH/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1418265135&sr=8-2&keywords=dvi+to+vga

Would this work as well or nah?
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-DVI-Cable-Adapter-DVIVGAMF/dp/B000067SOH

$3 help you out.
If you want to use your GPU, you always need to plug the cable into the GPU. If you don't, plug it into the MoBo.

I agree. Looks like OP can use the cable in that link to connect the second monitor to the DVI port (the white one next to where the main monitor it attached). With that cord, it will be blue (from monitor) to white (in computer).

Alternatively, if you have an adapter like this lying around (they usually come with a new video card), you can use that with a (blue) VGA cord. Just plug this puppy into the back of the computer next to where your main monitor is attached. Then a (blue) VGA cable from your second monitor will plug into that adapter.

Any DVI to VGA adaptor will work.

Such as this

Hey

You're looking for one of these two adapters.

DVI to VGA

DVI-D (Dual Link) to VGA

depending on which DVI port you have on your computer.

http://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-DVI-Cable-Adapter-DVIVGAMF/dp/B000067SOH

http://www.amazon.ca/Importer520-Male-DVI-D-Female-Adapter/dp/B007EA48MA

Those are them but you can find them in other places :)

I found a Cord and an adapter, you can get either I'm not sure if it matters.

The cord

The Adapter

The adapter will work with the cord you are already using in your two photos if you don't want to have another cord lying around your house.

I highly doubt you used THAT exact adapter.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Visual_Interface#/media/File:DVI_pinout.svg
You may have used one like it, but a DVI-I to VGA adapter connects the four pins around the plus section to the corresponding analog wires. The adapter you linked doesn't HAVE those four pins, so it can't adapt anything.
There are IDENTICAL adapters that DO work with DVI-I (http://amzn.com/B000067SOH) notice how that one has the four pins that are missing from the one you linked. I would bet decent money that your adapter has those four pins too.

input your zip code here and see how far the towers are from you:

https://www.antennasdirect.com/transmitter-locator.html

Most non-amped antennas will reach up to 40 miles, which should barely include Prineville. Depending on your geography, might be or might not be worth getting.

I have a simple $10 rabbit ear antenna and rarely have problems with it. Usually only when it's windy (weird), or it's a really, really popular broadcast, like the Super Bowl, which i find interesting (and annoying)

https://www.amazon.com/RCA-ANT111E-Digital-Antenna-Non-Amplified/dp/B000HKGK8Y

I'm downtown in a major city and struggled greatly with getting any decent reception. It killed me when they nixed Aereo... I have tried several of the flat antennas, hoping I could hide it nicely. The only way I've been able to get all of the major channels has been with one of these.

Its ugly, to it works pretty well for me.

I'm not the OP but have the same question. Here's my TVF report:
http://www.tvfool.com/?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=29&q=id%3de1c62ef3ee4fad

Do I need something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/RCA-ANT111F-Basic-Indoor-Antenna/dp/B000HKGK8Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405354053&sr=8-1&keywords=set+top+antenna

...or this:

http://www.amazon.com/RCA-ANT122F-Indoor-Antenna/dp/B005QCD0GS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405354053&sr=8-2&keywords=set+top+antenna

...or this:

http://www.amazon.com/Homeworx-HW110AN-Super-Indoor-Antenna/dp/B008KVUAGU/ref=pd_cp_e_0

?

Thanks for your help in advance!!

Sorry, I'm an old fart who grew up before cable TV. I forget sometimes most people here don't recall those days!

Rabbit ears: https://www.amazon.com/RCA-ANT111Z-Durable-Antenna-Rabbit/dp/B000HKGK8Y

They actually work pretty well.

I see your antenna is a "flat" antenna which is typically UHF only (real channels 14 and up), but ABC is on channel 9. You need to get yourself a VHF/UHF combo antenna.

• I see you're concerned about not having a visible antenna/wire but that's probably not an option with over-the-air TV. Try some rabbit ears (VHF) plus loop (UHF). This is what my parents use and they get reception at 20 miles distance: https://www.amazon.com/RCA-ANT111E-Digital-Antenna-Non-Amplified/dp/B000HKGK8Y
  
  Another possiblity is the signal is so strong, you're getting multipath reception (same signal bouncing off buildings). That can confuse the tuner and it just produces garbage. In that situation you need a directional antenna that ignores bouncing signals. Those don't really exist for indoor antennas (mainly outdoor)
  

If you have an old "rabbit ears" style antenna (like this one), the loop is for UHF, the two extendable poles are for VHF. The main reason one would get separate ones, is in the case of fringe reception where they want antennas dedicated to the different bands to get the best possible signal. But for your location that is overkill.

If you wanted to try something slightly better than the Mohu, you could try a Winegard FreeVision. It could also be mounted outside (or in the attic) if it doesn't get good enough reception indoors. But isn't too big that it would look out of place if it works indoors.

> The cheap one needs to be repositioned to go from WXXI and Fox/ABC to NBC.
You get ...

That was my experience with this antennna... can't beat it for the price.

But I ended up just plugging into the TWC jack... it has pretty much the same channels on it even without paying for cable.

Here are some various examples.

1.

2.

3. "When saying "indoor TV antenna," many people probably think of the old "rabbit ears" design that looks like two metal sticks coming out of a base to catch signals, but modern day antennas don't necessarily look like that. "

I use this, which is less than half the price, and it works great. I do live in the middle of the city, though.

http://www.amazon.com/RCA-ANT111-Basic-Indoor-Antenna/dp/B000HKGK8Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1343106069&sr=8-3&keywords=antenna

if you want to use an antenna for basic HD OTA tv, any cheap one will work. I have two of these $7 ones and they pull in HDTV without issue. Don't bother with anything more expensive, you don't need it

There are two problems and you hinted at one of them. According to your TVFool report ABC and CBS are VHF and your antenna sucks at picking up VHF signals. The second problem is that those signals are "2Edge" signals which means there are two objects between you and the antenna which may block the signal (hills/mountains/buildings). When you're on your TVFool report you can click on each broadcaster and see what the horizontal signal looks like with your local topography, when you look at WJLA-TV (ABC) you can see there is a large hill between you and the broadcaster. Now the good news is that you receive ABC with the antenna in the window which means there is hope you may receive CBS too but with a different antenna. There are a few suggestions I can give you:

You can try a pair of rabbit ears and see what they're able to pick up. This is the cheapest option. They're usually better at picking up VHF signals than the flat antennas such as yours.

If the rabbit ears don't work then I would pick up the Winegard Freevision antenna and see what you're able to receive with it in the window (Homedepot is cheaper than amazon and has a better return policy). You can also grab a Winegard LNA-100 Amplifier if the antenna alone doesn't pick up the signal (amazon is usually cheapest). You will need to purchase a coax cable to connect the Freevision antenna to the tv and another coax cable if you purchase the amplifier (I believe you also need a male to male coax adapter to use the amplifier away from the TV, if you use it right next to the tv you don't need another cable or adapter but it may not work as well compared to closer to the antenna). You can mount the antenna on the window using clear 3M command hooks.

It looks like those two channels are in the VHF range which that antenna you linked to is not optimal for.

Try a set of rabbit ears. The dipole setup is better for VHF. Even something cheap/silly like this:
https://www.amazon.com/RCA-ANT111Z-Durable-Antenna-Rabbit/dp/B000HKGK8Y

It doesn't look as fancy, but that's what picks up VHF.

If the room has a east facing window, try placing the antenna closer to that window and as high up in the room as possible.

http://www.amazon.com/RCA-ANT111-Basic-Indoor-Antenna/dp/B000HKGK8Y/

that's what I have and it works great. Only trouble is that it doesn't like my computer very much. I have to turn it off if I want to watch certain channels. If you're computer is nowhere near the antenna, you should be fine.

Your TV should have an Input called TV. Your TV should have a screw in cable connection on the back. Buy any cheap antenna ($8), screw it into the back of the TV.

Then go to your TV menu, select setup, find the area where it asks if you have Cable or Air (Antenna). Select Air/Antenna. Find another section where it says scan for channels. Start an auto scan. When it is scanning it should show number of Analog channels and Digital Channels found.

Your TV will take a long time to scan. When its done, you should be able to change the channel with your TV remote.

Yeah, I have had some luck. Honestly, you probably won't get many channels, but ABC comes in really well and a couple others.

I bought this one:
http://www.amazon.com/RCA-ANT111-Basic-Indoor-Antenna/dp/B000HKGK8Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381593455&sr=8-2&keywords=antenna

My one warning on this is that if your tv is over 4-5 years old, it may have some compatibility issues. If you have a flat panel, it should work for you.

And if you have a really solid internet connection, you can usually stream whatever you want. However, the quality if doing this isn't great, but to me it's preferable solution.

I'm in Madison near research park and I have problems pulling in WAFF too. But I also have the cheapest antenna around, so I figured that was to be expected. http://www.amazon.com/RCA-Indoor-FM-HDTV-Antenna/dp/B000HKGK8Y/

I get all the other local channels just fine.

If you post your TVFool.com report we can help you pick a good antenna for your area.

But if you want to try an antenna you can either make an antenna or get a Cheap rabbit ears with the loop / flat center thing and see if you can pick any thing up with either of those.. (or you can try a metal uncoated paper clip bent like an L in the antenna port of the TV, If you have any very strong signals very close to you, it should pick it up)

Just a FYI, if you do want an antenna, don't fall for "HD Antenna" marketing. The HD TV is set up by the broadcaster, and picked up by your tv tuner. All antennas are just conductive metal (usually copper or aluminum) shaped to pick up the different Radio Frequencies. Not much more. It's why rabbit ears are moveable, so you can shape them to pick up different VHF signals better.

I live in a brick house and have tried these 3 antennas with varying results
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Ultra-Thin-Amplified-Indoor-Antenna/dp/B00DIFIP06/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1425590560&sr=8-2&keywords=amazon+basic+antenna

http://www.amazon.com/TERK-Amplified-Indoor-HDTV-Antenna/dp/B0007MXZB2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425590646&sr=8-1&keywords=terk+antenna

http://www.amazon.com/RCA-Indoor-FM-HDTV-Antenna/dp/B000HKGK8Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1425590674&sr=8-2&keywords=RCA+antenna

I found that the cheap $10 RCA rabbit ears worked just as well as the more expensive ones. All 3 had difficulty bringing in a consistent broadcast of NBC but that probably has to do with where I'm located. If you don't mind the eye sore aesthetics I'd go with the RCA and then work your way up price wise if it doesn't bring in the channels you want. The TERK is an eye sore as well and has balance issues. The feet at the bottom aren't wide enough to balance the thick dipole antennas. And the amazon basics 50 mile high gain model didn't perform any better for the price difference in my circumstances.

If you want to test the waters, this is definitely the cheapest option. For an $8 antenna it does an outstanding job. I pick up about 20+ channels outside Charlotte, NC and the quality is impeccable. Looks great on my 60" LCD. I have at least 5 friends who have also used the same antenna and they all rave about it. It's worth the $8-9 to try it out! Good luck.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HKGK8Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?qid=1464738420&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=tv+antenna

I have this sub-$10 one and it picks up all of the locals just fine in Amherst.

But it also depends on where you have the antenna placed indoors, how many interfering sources are around it, etc.

OP shouldn't have any problem getting all the Buffalo locals in his location.

I also have an outdoor antenna (around $100) that gets me a lot of the Toronto stations.

I'm going to echo the other two responses: although I did it for years, free cable from the coax wall jack is impossible anymore (it's now encrypted and requires a tuner box). However, you can get ~40 channels OTA (over-the-air) including the major networks by using an antenna (go here and put in your zip code). For ~$50, you can get one that works and looks good. For ~$10 you can use some "bunny ears". And for ~$5 and half an hour you can actually build your own (and it works amazingly well!). I've done all 3 and had no problems getting enough channels in the metro area.

I have this. I live near 13th and Ogden. It's cheap, but works well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HKGK8Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah for sure :) The first time you switch out pads it takes some getting used to stretching them all the way around. I used these http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-Velour-Earcushions-MDR7506-Headphones/dp/B0016MF7W2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396027183&sr=8-1&keywords=velour+pads but I found them to be quite a tight fit for the m50's which means slightly annoying to put on your cans. They aren't a perfect fit so the lip of the pads that holds onto the ear cup doesn't go all the way in like it does for the stock pads. If this is confusing I can provide some pictures but they do feel more comfortable after you've completed the mod. A lot of people liked to use these Shure pads http://www.amazon.com/Shure-HPAEC940-Replacement-Velour-Headphones/dp/B005OM06RG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1396027173&sr=8-2&keywords=m50+pads too though I haven't had any personal experiences with them.

From what I have gathered from my teachers and people around me, is that headphones usually exaggerate frequencies unless you get some flat response ones I suppose, even then it will probably sound different on speakers and such. Some headphones that was suggested on this thread are the Sony MDR-7506 which look pretty nice, and have a flat frequency response. I can't confirm the quality but if you do get these, you would also need the ear cushions because I hear the quality of the default ones aren't that great.

Edit: Now seeing that mixing on monitors is preference, I would probably mix on monitors myself, the mixing console in school is really awesome so I love being in there. But since I am broke I wil probably be using headphones myself.

http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-Velour-Earcushions-MDR7506-Headphones/dp/B0016MF7W2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397087763&sr=8-1&keywords=beyerdynamic+dt250+velour+pads

I know they aren't velour in the picture but these are the ones I ordered and they are in fact velour. The picture is incorrect.

Great headphones! It's one that I always recommend to friends on a budget. As for the replacement pads, you have 2 options the way I see it.

1. Buy either genuine or knockoff ones that are the same as what are on there now. Something like this.
   
   or 2) A lot of people like these Beyer pads for the V6/7506. I've never tried them, but I'm sure you can find more info if you search around.
   
   Either way enjoy the cans!

They're light and you can adjust their clamping, and they might be the best you can do in your budget. Which, and I'm being blunt here but it's the truth: your budget doesn't really afford you the opportunity to be picky here. You could buy the Monoprice 8323 and add Brainwavz velour ear pads or these Beyerdynamic ear pads (http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-EDT250V-Headphone-Pads-Black/dp/B0016MF7W2) and get more comfort, but you could be spending more than the headphones themselves (on Monoprice for $16, more on Amazon) for the ear pads. Same situation with the KSC75, they're $15 and use the same drivers as the PortaPro, but more comfortable quality ear pads seem to run as much as they do. Maybe that's worth it to you. But I think your money's best spent buying the best sound quality you can and dealing with whatever annoyances may possibly exist.

I've had these cans for 8 years now and still going strong. Love em. Tough as nails too (although I did manage to break the headphone jack through my own stupidity, but it was nothing a bit of solder couldn't fix).

If you do get these headphones, make sure to get these pads too:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016MF7W2/ref=pe_385040_30332190_pe_175190_21431760_M3T1_ST1_dp_1

Can't rate those pads highly enough.

Get these headphones, get these replacement earpads, and this mic.

You will have fantastic audio quality, hours and hours of comfort, and years (if not decades) of use. I have a pair of those headphones I've had for over 10 years and used extensively for audio/video editing and they are absolute Godsends

On mobile and just erased my wall of text, but can't recommend the BD velour pads enough. Had them on my 7506 Pro for about three years and couldn't be happier.

Beyerdynamic EDT250V Headphone Ear Pads Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016MF7W2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rcS1AbC8QXWGA

Here you go:

Beyerdynamic EDT250V Headphone Ear Pads Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016MF7W2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_CLaqub0F5C9NJ

I have had these on my M50s for almost a year now and they work great. They're a little tight (as in smaller than the stock pleather pads) but that hasn't been an issue for me - I was worried they would fall off or something over time but they have held up great and I definitely do not baby these headphones.

As for the sound change, I'm no hi-fi audiophile but it doesn't bother me. To the trained ear hearing side by side with the stock pads and these you might get some weirdness in the bass tones but its nothing unpleasant for me. I personally enjoy a lot of bass so getting more boominess is not a bad thing - I use the second mid-heavy eq on my fiio e6 and that both combats the tonal imbalance of the headphones and cuts back on the boominess caused by the pads.

I had to replace the pads on my Sony MDR v6 several times. I recommend using the velour pads made by Beyerdynamic. They do not flake off like the stock pads and I had one set last 4 years straight without falling apart.

https://smile.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-EDT250V-Headphone-Pads-Black/dp/B0016MF7W2

edit: found these on amazon

they seem to be well reviewed, best of luck!

Personally? I'd get another set. I've had a pair of MDR V6 since the mid 80s (basically the same headphones), and they are still great.

For the money, it's hard to beat those two Sonys. Both are on Amazon for just over 70 at the minute, and you can throw in a pair of velours for super comfort and still be below your spending cap. I bought the ones below for my V6.

https://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-EDT250V-Headphone-Pads-Black/dp/B0016MF7W2/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1496157269&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=beyerdynamic+velour+pads

I own a pair of Sony MDR-7506's and they handle every style of music I've used them for extremely well (with the exception of EDM, they are not bass heavy enough to really do that style any justice). They are studio monitors so they are very flat (no extra emphasis on the lows or highs) and their clarity and presence is unbeatable for the price. They will blow anything by Skullcandy or Beats completely out of the water and they are supposed to last for decades, I've had mine for about 3 years and they function as well as the day I bought them. There's also an /r/headphones and /r/audiophile subreddit, they will definitely point you in the right direction.

The only complaint I had about these headphones was that the ear pads started to wear out after about a year so I replaced them with these slightly softer and nicer earpads and they look as new as the day I put them on. They have a little more cushion which creates a little more deadspace between your ear and the speaker which in turn gives the bass a little more kick.

http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-EDT250V-Headphone-Pads-Black/dp/B0016MF7W2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1421979569&sr=1-3&keywords=m50+velour&pebp=1421979629938&peasin=B0016MF7W2

These are the ones I used. I know it says they're for Beyerdynamic but they'll fit other headphones (including the m50's). It's a bit of a pain switching them but it's doable.

yep those are the pads. The velour version will rob a little bass, so you may want to consider pleather

If you do want velour another option is the DT250 pad

Both pads are straightforward swaps, pull the old pad off, and put the new pad on, no tools required, will take you less than 5 min if you use the right technique

also, the V6 are pretty much identical to the 7506, if you have patience IMO go with the V6

the stock pads are a little thin, HM5 pads definitely add to comfort

I listen to the same types of music and I have these.

I love them.

Also, get these to replace the stock pads.

Have had mine for 7 years and still going strong. It's been mentioned, but the pads will be destroyed after a year or so of regular use.

I'd go ahead and pick these up as well: http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-Velour-Earcushions-MDR7506-Headphones/dp/B0016MF7W2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1335514923&sr=1-3

More comfy and way more durable.

For $85, go for this combo

Microphone-Currently using it, no problems so far http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ

Headphones-Really great headphones, also can upgrade to velour pads when you get the money
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AJIF4E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER


Here the link for the velour pads

http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-Velour-Earcushions-MDR7506-Headphones/dp/B0016MF7W2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1374722727&sr=1-1&keywords=beyerdynamic+velour+pads

Get these Beyer velour pads, much better than the Sony stock pleather pads.

These

Try replacing the ear pads on your 7506s with those designed for Beyerdynamic DT-250s. They're far less fatiguing because of the velour construction and, for me, feature improved lows and isolation. Also, only about €20.

These ones


Right?

I have these headphones. The standard pads aren't very comfortable and over time they lose their softness. What I did was buy these Beyerdynamic Pads.

Its a direct fit and a very popular mod for these headphones. Mine feel much more premium and very comfortable for long periods of time now.

I had a set of Beyerdynamic EDT 250 pads on mine when I had those Panasonics, and they worked well. Much comfier than the default pads.

Here's another way of doing it if anyones interested, just some genuine leather from ebay. I also got beyerdynamic pads instead after doing some research.

​

I just cut the leather to the same size as the orignal material and sewed it up by hand.

I have the M50's too, and was able to pick them up for $110 a couple years ago. They have been wonderful to me in games. Recently replaced the earpads, and while they do leak a bit more sound, they are so much more comfortable for me, and I love the velour over pleather on my skin.

I use the MDR V6 which are similar. Used them for the past 7 years, so much I bought a second pair for when I am away from home. They're the only headphones I've owned which have maintained their sound quality after so long.

I had the same problem with the earpads falling apart after a while so I replaced them with Velour pads. The ones I bought are here: https://amzn.com/B0016MF7W2

There are cheaper alternatives now, but when I bought the pads years ago there weren't so many.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

That's a really flawed argument because companies sell snake oil all the time

"4K Hdmi cables from Monster."

That's no good, son. Those aren't virus proof and very prone to leaking. To avoid a costly digital leak you should immediately upgrade. Here this cable should be sufficient.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

Got you covered.

Dude i'd rather buy a console than pay this much for an HDMI cable. Damn thing isn't even virus proof

also needs this HDMI cable

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

And it's definitely no AudioQuest Diamond 1m (3.2 feet) Braided HDMI Cable

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4 Schonmal was davon gehört?

Only two left... better go get yours quick!

I don't know if a $3300 powered one exists, but there is this one for under $7k, which is well below your insane $20k guess. I'd like to see exactly what the $3300 one they're referring to is, it could just be some insanely overpriced mechanical one that nobody buys, like those ridiculous HDMI cables they sell on Amazon.

Yeah, really. Why even bother buying cables that are that cheap? Everyone knows you have to spend at least $1,000.00 for an HDMI cable.

To think Monster cables are bad, check this cable out: http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

Oddly enough Best Buy also seems to carry these in my area, and they sell for $350. Yay for Monoprice! They get you on the shipping sometimes but the cables are dirt cheap and work great.

They need the proper cabling as well.

AudioQuest Diamond 2m (6.56 feet) Braided HDMI Cable

You need a better hdmi cable. /s

But really, if you're happy with your set up don't worry about it.

Non-mobile version.

Better get your self one of these to go with it!
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

I don't know. Those audio quest cables seem to change people's lives.

Just look at these reviews!

AudioQuest Diamond 2m (6.56 feet) Braided HDMI Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT2A2M/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_hY-zub09K6R66

you mean something like this from amazon?

You need an HDMI cable? You should try out their diamond HDMI cables next, they have low jitter signal conductors for digital audio direction.. lol.

A coat hanger would sound as good as the cables you're currently using. But I'm sure that its nice to have matching cables and no more buzzing problems.

here

Maybe consider a monitor mount (example) and a headphone hook (example) and you might find yourself with some more space to work with. Looks great, though. Pretty cool that you're so close to that window for some fresh air.

https://www.amazon.ca/Anchor-ORIGINAL-Under-Desk-Headphone-Stand/dp/B00P31BMHG/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=headset+mount&qid=1569019271&sprefix=headset+m&sr=8-5

Hmmm. I have an hd650. What about this?

https://www.amazon.com/Anchor-ORIGINAL-Under-Desk-Headphone-Stand/dp/B00P31BMHG

The Anchor - THE ORIGINAL Under-Desk Headphone Stand Mount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P31BMHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_NKcbrrU2ocURn

I'm going to suggest a few things because your setup has a lot of potentials. First, mount that CRG9. That behemoth is a great monitor but the stand just takes up too much space, once you mount it, it will give you an unbelievable amount of desk space. Second, drill a hole and route your mouse and keyboard cord thru it. Also, get something like this to hang your headset underneath the table. Last but not least, put some pictures or your collection or what not onto the wall to make it more personal. Afterward, your setup will look much better and super clean. Hope that helps.

Elevation Lab The Anchor - The Original Under-Desk Headphone Stand Mount | Gaming Headset, Over Ear Headphones Hook, Universal Dual Fit | Patented https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P31BMHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5u2NDbTZA7JVW

Nice man, I'm majoring in Kinesiology

The Anchor - THE ORIGINAL Under-Desk Headphone Stand Mount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P31BMHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jf3Szb9WFM70V

Eh, I prefer this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P31BMHG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_99XNwbJAN8C54

One of those little $10-15 stick on hooks you get on Amazon that attach to the bottom of your desk.

This one I think.

> P.S I know what yall are thinking, this is some rich fat kid that sits on his ass all day and needs everything perfect.

Didn't cross my mind at all but thanks for clarifying anyways. Had me worried.

http://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Peridot-Headphone-Stand-Suitable/dp/B00AE0IEHM

http://www.amazon.com/AmoVee-Acrylic-Headphone-Stand-Black/dp/B00SGW9QLS

http://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Hengja-Headphone-Desk-Hanger/dp/B012VIWG28

http://www.amazon.com/Anchor-Under-Desk-Headphone-Stand-Mount/dp/B00P31BMHG

Take your pick.

do you want a hanger like this - http://www.amazon.com/Anchor-Under-Desk-Headphone-Stand-Mount/dp/B00P31BMHG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449520971&sr=8-2&keywords=headphone+hanger or like this http://www.amazon.com/LUXA2-HO-HDP-ALE1SI-00-Headphone-Sennheiser-Plantronics/dp/B00MCVOILM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1449521006&sr=8-4&keywords=headphone+stand. The philips has a headband + an adjusting headphone pad - just hang them using the headband part and not the headphone pad and you'll be fine - you won't ever had to worry about the fabric wearing or arcing.

https://www.amazon.com/Anchor-ORIGINAL-Under-Desk-Headphone-Stand/dp/B00P31BMHG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501773825&sr=8-3&keywords=headphone+hanger

Get one of thesebad bois for headphones, they’ve free’d up a lot of clutter on my desk.

I really like this one.

EDIT: Realized it might not be what you're looking for. But I like it. So there! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

It's a sticky add-on I got from Amazon.

I use an under-desk mount for mine. I have the smaller variant from that link (would have chosen the larger one if I'd originally planned on using it for my VR headset, but it's fine), and while mine isn't quite large enough to hold a VR headset comfortably, it still works, and weight isn't an issue - I've been using it for the last several months to hold both my headset and headphones together without issue.

Nothing special, just this hanger from Amazon. Really neat!

I wanted to share a couple pictures of the desk set up and also some of the accessories I purchased. My expirience with Fully was great. I got the Jarvis3 with Walnut veneer in a72x60 size. The frame was delivered about 3 days later and the desk top about a week after purchase. The quality is everything I expected! This thing is heavy and stable at all heights. I love this desk!

Pics:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1E7Vi_PN-sxrfnujw9ZgXZTnQwUT8dTyeLA/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LBK9sdiy9oULc-dOgY7ElnAcd45jkCCloQ/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L56J3IP3A9cVEiPSgyNNANwCjJIY4P3blA/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1N0TaD-U1OJlcw7mq8sihXH_obmELsdRv6A/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Mw-c-78JU_MAIraOlL56jLZuFK-l0lQMDA/view?usp=sharing

Accessories
I decided to get the keyboard tray and accessories from Amazon. The keyboard tray is probably going back because it is difficult to move back and forth.
Keyboard Tray Here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M2319VR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The Anchor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P31BMHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wiretamers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BVYW7UY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

VESA adapter for old Samsung Monitor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071YFDQKS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dual Monitor Mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018MSDG84/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Clips for wire management: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071L91LBH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Long Power strip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036DEC48/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

the Anchor

Build

CPU: i5-7600K
RAM: Avexir Core Series 8GB DDR4 2400
MB: ASUS PRIME Z270-AR
GPU: msi GeForce GTX 750 Ti
Storage: Samsung SSD 850 EVO 500GB
Storage: 5TB in hard disk storage
PSU: SeaSonic M12II 620
Cooler: Corsair H80i closed loop cooler
Case: NZXT H440 Mid-Tower

*

Peripherals*

Displays: Dual Dell U2412M
Keyboard: Velocifire VM01
Mouse: Logitech M560
Mousepad: Steelseries QcK
Headphone hanger: The Anchor (barely visible below the desk)
Amp: Pyle PTA4 Mini (PC, turntable, and docking station as switchable inputs)
Webcam: Logitech C310
Dell docking station for work laptop
UGREEN USB 3.0 sharing switch (switches webcam, keyboard, and mouse between dock and PC)
XBox 360 wireless receiver and controller



Rainmeter

For the interested, my Rainmeter theme details can be found here.

*****

Been wanting to make this build for a long time. Or really, any build. Always loved PC gaming, never had the budget until this year and put this together with the help of a friend.

As far as wireless headsets that are surround sound, you have the following compatible with Xbox One:
>Turtle Beach

>* Elite 800X - $299 - Great when it works. I personally had issues with 3 sets and decided it wasn't for me.

• Stealth 500X - $229 - Model before the 800X. Same 50mm drivers as the 800x basically the same, but without bluetooth compatibility for the phone app and bluetooth audio. This is the wireless solution that I decided was best for me.
  
  > Astro
  
  > A50 - $299 - There is an A50 that is out now that is commonly referred to as the "Halo A50." It is the current generation model that comes with the headset stand, base station, etc. It's a great headset that is mostly wireless. For chat, it requires a cord from the headset to the controller.
  
  > A50 (new) - $299 - This version is not out yet, and has been delayed. The biggest difference between the newest model and the previous generation is this model is completely wireless with no cords from the headset required.
  
  >SteelSeries
  
  > SteelSeries Siberia X800 - $309 - This wireless headset uses a cord to the controller for voice chat. I am unfamiliar with the headset but it seems like a valid third brand option, in no particular order.
  
  >Wired Headsets
  
  > This requires some type of surround sound receiver, headphones, and a mic. There are bundles available from Astro, Turtle Beach, Razer, SteelSeries, etc., but one can obtain better quality by mixing and matching the best of each part: the receiver, the headset, and microphone (if it isn't included in the headset)
  
  > Surround sound receivers
  
  > This is pretty much between Astro's Mixamp Pro TR and Turtle Beach's
  
  > Astro's Mixamp Pro TR for XO, PS4, PC and Mac - $130 This is one option for dolby digital 5.1/7.1 surround sound decoding and Dolby Headphone encoding for any standard stereo headset.
  
  >* Turtle Beach Elite Pro TAC - $199 - This is a second option for DTS surround sound via DTS Headphone:X 7.1 Surround Sound. A lot of options that aren't available on the Mixamp Pro TR are on the Turtle Beach TAC such as being able to adjust background noise, microphone boost and mic monitor levels instantly and physically.
  
  
  > Differences between Astro and Turtle Beach They both do a great job at providing situational surround sound to stereo headphones. With the current firmware updates for each respective unit there does seem to be a sound quality difference with a lot of people prefering the Astro. I recommend plugging in headphones and watching this video and hear the differences for yourself: Astro Mixamp Pro TR vs Turtle Beach TAC
  
  >Headsets
  
  > Some of the best headsets recommended by those on HeadFi.org can be read about here. This is where I had come to my selection of the AudioTechnica ATH-AD700.
  
  > If you would rather buy a wired surround sound headset ready to go out-of-the-box
  
  > For a wired ready to go set, I'd have to put my money on the Astro A40 Mixamp Pro TR, although I personally prefer open-back headsets instead of sound isolation closed-back headphones.
  
  If it were me buying a set today...
  
  I would want something wireless so it would be the newest Astro A50 that comes out in October, or the SteelSeries X800, but then again, it is because I've went down the wired path, using a mixamp or DSS with many different wired headphones and mics. Even if I didn't have cord-loving cats, I'm glad that I have a wireless headset. It really is a personal preference that you can't really pin down, until you try some yourself.
  
  A side note: I have an average sized head, but larger than average protruding ears. Every headset I've purchased, I've swapped out the earcups with aftermarket sets. Most notably brainwavz HM5 earups. They are deeper and more comfortable for me and have worked on most sets of headphones without modification. I highly recommend them. They come in Pleather - various colors, Hybrid pleather + Velour, and just Velour

The HM5 seems to come in a hybrid version with velour where it contacts the head and pleather elsewhere. I trust it's good quality given the HM5 Velour I had was also recommendable. Could be a decent compromise.

here you go. however, now they are twice of what i bought for. so, you might wanna wait a while until the price drops. although, i'm not entirely sure whether the price hike was due to the recent sales.

Original, all pleather. - https://smile.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Foam-Earpads/dp/B00MFDT894

Hybrid - https://smile.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Hybrid-Memory-Foam-Earpad/dp/B00ZGGG3KY

The pads I purchased weren't exactly the standard issue HM5 pads. I own a pair of HE-400 with focus pads and I thought it really helped with the comfort there, so I opted for the focus pad knockoff style.

Supposedly the combination of faux leather, suede and perforated leather on the inside of the pads helps it acoustically somehow. Seeing as how I've never owned a pair of standard issue HM5 pads, I can't really compare the two for any acoustic differences that may or may not exist.

I'm also reminded of how it's been shown many times over that people to tend to mistake a louder headphone for a better headphone. Seeing that the HM5 pads are bigger, they cause the ear to be further away from the drivers, resulting in a lower overall volume, although easily corrected by turning the volume up. I readily admit that I have no idea how much this phenomenon affects my overall impressions of the headphones w/HM5 vs w/stock pads.

Amazon

Brainwavz

MP4Nation

Take your pick.

You might try the Brainwavz HM-5 hybrid pads. They will fit, but I have no idea how they'll affect sound. The hybrid pads have pleathor on the outside, but velour where they contact your skin.

I don't know if you've solved this yet, but I purchased the following:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZGGG3KY/ref=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_0

And they worked wonderfully, improving comfort and spacing. Only thing to note is that they have a bit of a tight fit at first, but they do go on.

Since the headphones are uncomfy, you should get some earpads from Brainwavz. They make a night and day difference.

These are some good ones http://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Velor-Memory-Replacements-Earpads/dp/B00MFDX4YO/ref=pd_sim_267_67?ie=UTF8&dpID=41RSWch-OBL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=05W96ZBWQMFJX3RFTNBX these http://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Hybrid-Memory-Foam-Earpad/dp/B00ZGGG3KY/ref=pd_sim_267_69?ie=UTF8&dpID=41haME4X2jL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=05W96ZBWQMFJX3RFTNBX or these http://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Foam-Earpads/dp/B00MFDT894/ref=pd_sim_267_45?ie=UTF8&dpID=41vuwIZESZL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=05W96ZBWQMFJX3RFTNBX I tried the M50x, same pads, very uncomfy but these are VERY high quality.

I am replaced mine about 3 months ago with these after using the stock pads for about a year and I can say I am very happy with them. They have minimal sound difference. For me it made it so the sound was just a bit muted and I had to turn the volume up a couple of notches to get the same sound as the stock pads. I believe this is due to the much thicker foam and having the drivers not being so close to my ear. There is some space now where as before my ear would touch the driver slightly and be a bit cramped. These have much more space inside and breathe so I can wear them comfortably for much longer. I wear them for up to 10+hrs at a time with no issues. With the stock pads I would experience discomfort after only a couple of hours. Hope this helps.

Brainwavz Hybrid Memory Foam Earpad - Black PU/Velour - Suitable for Large Over The Ear Headphones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZGGG3KY/ref=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_apa\_Pt8QBbGE6SSAA

Audio-Technica ATH-M50x... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016YJDV74?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share FiiO E10K USB DAC Headphone Amplifier Plus Antlion Audio ModMic 4 Noise-Cancelling Attachable Boom Microphone Mute Switch USB Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CF4BGBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zBv0DbWHP4NFB Brainwavz Hybrid Memory Foam... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZGGG3KY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Is there a difference between your link and this one?

https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Velor-Memory-Replacements-Earpads/dp/B00ZGGG3KY?th=1 (Hybrid Oval version)

It's $5 cheaper and I think the only difference may be that yours is angled?

That's what my buddy said. He suggested these.

I'll have to try different things out.

I digress, but I'm running into other little nuances too, such as me taking a lot of work phone calls and realizing that the seamless transition between music and call on my IconX is super convenient. I just take one bud out and take the call. Now, I find myself switching between the M50 and the IconX to take calls (M50 microphone quality is worse according to my girlfriend and I also hate both ears being covered when talking on the phone; can't hear myself talk).

Regardless, I'm in an exploratory phase and I'm glad this sub is here. Thanks!

For pads I recommend these : some struggling to put them on but they fit just fine.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00ZGGG3KY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But I can see where your mindset is coming from and I understand why it irks you. Personally im a tinkerer and a modder so tweaking things / modding things / spending more money to make things fit just right for me is kind of on part for the course and... almost fun, as silly as it sounds.

I was able to tweak the EQ settings more through fully with Equalizer APO but that might also not be something you'd be willing to do. Im currently using the first profile from this thread : https://www.reddit.com/r/steelseries/comments/65ogu1/best_arctis_7_equalizer_settings/

Get ATH-WS99BT for same price on amazon and add these [earpads] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZGGG3KY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1), then be content you have one of the best sounding headphones, dont even need a amp.

https://www.amazon.com/Steam-Link-pc/dp/B016XBGWAQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518649330&sr=8-1&keywords=steam+link

au pire. C'est typique d'Amazon.ca de charger 5 fois plus cher :p

De toute façon, même à 65$ c'est pas cher pour une solution tout en un

/u/JudaiMustang is right - wired is the way to go.

If for some reason that's entirely impractical for you, maybe check out Steam Link if you're wanting to play games on your TV. Beware that it will not work as well, especially on 2.4GHz wireless.

Steam Link is cheaper on Amazon with free prime shipping my dude

https://www.amazon.com/Steam-Link-pc/dp/B016XBGWAQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1509547174&sr=1-1&keywords=steam+link&dpID=31SX34IRz2L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Amazon US $34.99 Steam Link

You're not going to the response time via AirPlay. You might want to consider getting a Steam Link if you want to stream Steam games from your PC/Mac to your TV.

Steam

GameStop (sale - $19.99)

Amazon (sale - $19.99)

I am not based in the US, so unfortunately, due to regional restrictions, Steam does not allow me to gift any hardware.

However, this item is available on Amazon.com. Are you able to create an amazon wishlist for this?

here

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B016XBGWAQ/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

>https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B016XBGWAQ/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

Awesome, thanks!

Steam link is available from amazon for $15 with prime shipping. Its back ordered though.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B016XBGWAQ/ref=sr_1_1_olp?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1498292376&sr=1-1&keywords=steam+link

I think it's still available from Amazon for $14.99

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B016XBGWAQ

Does this work? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/ol/B016XBGWAQ/ref=mw_dp_olp?ie=UTF8&condition=all

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016XBGWAQ?ref_=mp_s_a_1_1&qid=1504198634&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=steam%20link&pldnSite=1

This link should be non-affiliated.

Yes. Take the Denon RCA format jack outputs with this cable going to the mini stereo input on the Altecs. Here's the adapting cable type. You got your right and left and they go into the input of the Altecs.


https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0/


It will sound good, btw

I'll condense all my information to this reply. A box like this is what you are looking for. It will take your SPDIF input and convert it to the 3 cable setup you currently have. Those 3 ports on the left will be the green black and orange cables you are using.

Now if you can't find that exact model in germany (with the 3 connectors on the left side that you need) then you can use any converter that takes your SPDIF input and outputs it to those red and white connectors. You can use those connectors with cables like these. That will give you the connectors you need to hook them up to your green black orange cables. The FL, CEN, SUB etc markings underneath each plug represent what channel they are. You use those extra cables you bought and hook them up accordingly into your logitech set.

EDIT: Something like this will work as well. That just eliminates the red/white plugs you dont need. But it has the 3 green/black/orange cables you need. They are marked underneath, just not color coded like your surround sound is. It will work fine.

Still positive feedback without proper use of said law firm would also be just as wrong as negative feedback without proper use. It may become one of those pages that have 4-5 star reviews and the stories are ridiculous.


/r/humorousreviews

Don't forget your diamond HDMI cable for Surface Silver Conductors and Dielectric-Bias Audio.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AudioQuest-Diamond-Cables-Standard-10-2-Gbit-Black/dp/B003CT2A2M

Isn't Audioquest that shitty company who tries to sell $1500 6ft HDMI cables?

yup, that's them

This one doesn’t even come with next day delivery!

Just go with the diamonds https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT2A2M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_K2riybVQWNBMQ

But really, HDMI is digital, so it's broadcasting all 1s and 0s. There's no degradation in quality possible, it either works or it doesn't.

Sounds like a fake Amazon review... Oh god, how many of those "joke reviews" may have in fact been the real deal? I better get me a few AudioQuest Diamond HDMI Cables.

Maybe it comes with AudioQuest Diamond cables

Fuck that. It's on Amazon for $400 less! Ratuken is a ripoff!!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT2A2M

What a great deal, almost $500 less than Amazon!

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

You absolutely must buy this.

Or just the 5$ cable in the nearest shop. Cables don't influence quality of digital signals. :)

Yeah they are way too overpriced,Try these.

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/product-reviews/B003CT2A2M/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

The Amazon reviews are hilarious

Holy shit!

The second review is hilarious

Dandelion and burdock

How about these then

From the people who would like to sell me a £2299 5m hdmi cable. No, you're going to actually have to produce some evidence.

No no, he should have gotten this. http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I

At least it wasn't this one

You mean I didn't had to buy AudioQuest Diamond HDMI to have a superior experience?

Look at top comment LOL

If the quality is not good enough after using this cable maybe you should upgrade to this one instead.

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/product-reviews/B003CT2A6I/ref=cm_cr_dp_all_helpful/184-4259725-4864155?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1&sortBy=bySubmissionDateDescending

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B003CT2A6I/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new this is only $2.7k!!! BARGAIN.

As far as your first question goes, the Switch itself wouldn't be able to automatically unless your TV also supports that. Some TVs will auto switch to a different input if a new signal is detected. If your TV does not have that feature then you can use a device like I use to give your TV more HDMI inputs (Kinivo HDMI switch). This device auto switches to the device that just turned on. You leave your TV on the same input and this device handles all the switching. It comes with a control to manually switch inputs as well. Something to consider!

Your second question...I haven't read anything on whether or not that will be a feature. I don't think we know at this time.

Edit: Wording.

IDK how many inputs your Bose system has but you could get 2 of these
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Converter-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072

and if you want to be very lazy add this
https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484164635&sr=1-2&keywords=auto+switching+hdmi+switch

I'm planning my PC setup, and I want to connect my PC to a TV, problem is I don't have enough HDMI slots to connect my PC, ps4, cable box and Nintendo switch, so I need an HDMI switcher, this is the one I found on Amazon; Kinivo 501BN Premium 5 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iGHizb09E00MA
Anyway my question is, will this work? Are there better options for a better price?
Also, I am going to get a dedicated monitor down the line but until I have the money for it and I can find one I like, my TV is going to be my primary monitor, so no answers along the lines of "just buy a monitor"

An HDMI switch maybe and then adapt each composite input into HDMI with one of these to be able to plug into the switch.

That's gonna be a converter for each of the older consoles (PS2, GameCube and N64) then the rest (Xbox 360, Wii) they run HDMI native IIRC so they just plug into the HDMI switch.

For an HDMI switch, I use this: Kinivo Switch, and it works great. I have a PS4, XB1, Wii U, Switch and PS3 hooked up to it. I have no issues with it, and recommend it. I am running everything at 1080, though.


I also have 2 of the Pelican System Selector Pro 2.0's that I absolutely love. Each one has 6 inputs, capable of switching composite, s-video and component. You have to run the appropriate outputs, so you are really limited to using 1 type of output realistically. If you get fancy with the output wiring you can mix and match, but I like to keep it simple. I use S-Video for everything that supports it into the selectors and then into a Toshiba CRT TV. I don't see any on eBay right now, but that's pretty much where you're gonna find them. I really like mine and recommend trying to scoop one up.


I used to run the regular Pelican System Selectors that had push buttons to switch sources. They work, but don't look as slick as the Pro's and Pro 2.0's.


Mixing inputs gets tricky, and I typically run different switching units for different types of outputs (s-video, component, HDMI). Here is a link to my setup I posted on reddit a few weeks ago: my setup

The HDMI handshake always takes some time, and Windows is particularly annoying with displays in my experience. Even if I plug my display in directly without any interruption or switching, simply changing between "active" and "disabled" in Windows causes all connected displays to turn on and off for several seconds. Windows often scrambles which display has my icons and open programs, too. I see how that'd be a big problem for you. Its not home and not theater, but I'm looking into it.

The ideal approach off the top of my head would be to have the display already "on" and connection negotiated, then just not display the image until its needed. I've got a few ideas:

- There are fast HDMI switchers out there. They are the ones that have an option to display which ever input is currently active, but support only one output each. They are cheap, though. This product on Amazon claims that the connected PCs can have their output as "always on", then it simply displays either the first active one or the one selected via remote. $40 https://www.amazon.ca/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y

- Try looking into "presentation switchers" instead. They start pretty cheap at B&H, but would do more what you want. KannexPro, for example,even has UltraFast HDMI switchers boasting 0.2 seconds switching time. This particular one is pricier at $500, but it says it can pre-store the EDID information of multiple displays to switch HDCP signals faster: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1424577-REG/kanexpro_hdmx42_18g_4x2_hdmi_2_0_4k_60.html

- Perhaps instead of connecting them as displays, have you tried adding a capture card to the PCs and connecting the output of that to a switch? This should at least negate Windows messing with it

- Or, alternatively have a PC/laptop/cheap Android tablet connected to the projector, and have it remotely display the content of one of the other PCs via wired LAN? You can probably get a sufficient connection going over LAN