[PB Blaster] (http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E)

Really soak those screws good - leave it alone for about 15 minutes, come back and tap on it with a hammer on each screw - you can tap it pretty good, you'll be loosening that rust.

Spray it again and repeat this process like 3 or 4 more times. After a little over an hour of doing this, tap on it with a hammer, and then try to unscrew it. If it still doesn't turn, repeat previous process again. Eventually it will turn, it just takes patience.

You can get PB Blaster at any hardware store usually. Second choice would be Liquid Wrench, but PB Blaster has always worked better for me.

Just got a new safe for xmas, hated the lighting in it so got started on a DIY lighting project. Spent 20 minutes and $24, its pressure sensitive and lights up all compartments.

• LED Strip - $7.99
  
• Switch - $5.90
  
• Power Source - $9.59
  
  Edit: The Safe is a Mesa
  
  

Hey guys,

​

I saw this awesome video by Derek Gilman about an automated curing system he had built: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jho0qeTUZnA

​

His rig is with 5 gallon gamma lid buckets, and he loads about 2 pounds in each one. The way the system works is you put your dried bud in the buckets, and you hook up an air pump to the buckets, on a timer. The timer I have set is for 15 mins every 24 hours. (The timer kicks on the pump, pushing air through the buckets, and auto shuts off after 15 mins). You install little valve outlets on the container and they exhaust out the old the air when the pump comes on, and then seal back up when it shuts off.

Being a micro grower who grows autos that yield ~100g, at about 179 grams a gallon I would be nowhere close to filling a 5 gallon gamma lid bucket, and even at 2 gallons I'm still a bit short.

So, I went to the store and found 1 gallon airtight food containers and it works! I was able to fit a Seedsman Zkittlez Auto I just got finished drying/trimming and ready for cure.

The system I built is:

- Aquarium Air pump, ideally with a built in manifold so you can hook up multiple containers: (NON AFFILIATE LINKS!) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ILGHAU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Air line https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NYQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Check Valves: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FKJXZ78/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- 3/16" Drill bit

- 1 Gallon airtight food storage container https://www.walmart.com/ip/Better-Homes-Gardens-Flip-Tite-Square-Food-Container-16-Cups/370961661

- Timer with 15 min increments: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVFF59S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I noticed that the pressure was a little too high when I had only one check valve as the outlet and it was causing the lid to pop up, so I added two more. If you are growing photos, you're most likely yielding more than I do with my auto plants, so you'd prolly be able to just use the 2 gallon gamma buckets, which should hold about 1/2-3/4 pound. https://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Black-Bucket-Screw-threaded/dp/B018BFY2KY/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=2+gallon+gamma&qid=1574473805&sr=8-5

I have it linked in the PCPP build: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071P862G1

If you wanted to get the wheels moving again, this specific thing and brand is your best chance.

For anyone interested
My lights: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HBT3BVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CdHKDbPDRD0JF

My shelf: https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-48-in-W-x-72-in-H-x-18-in-D-Decorative-Wire-Chrome-Heavy-Duty-Shelving-Unit-HD18481302PS-1/203846551?MERCH=REC-_-rv_mobileweb_rr-_-NA-_-203846551-_-N

I also needed an outlet timer since the lights don't have one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVFF59S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FmHKDbGVVCMWT

I can't recommend one of these enough. I've had mine for a while and makes desolder work a DREAM. And at $10 with prime shipping you literally cannot beat it.

it's all about having the right tip, the right diameter solder, a temperature controlled pencil set to the right value, and that the tip is free of oxidation so that you always make good contact with the parts you're joining.

a breadboard may be more suitable until you get down your technique, watch some youtube videos in the meantime and practice on inexpensive parts.

edit: more tips:

it's also good to have a copper or steel mesh to clean your tip after every joint. the oldschool wet sponge doesn't do as good a job. here's a link:

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-599B-02-Solder-Cleaning-Holder/dp/B00FZPGDLA

A 1mm / 1.2mm tip is suitable for most everything including surface mount, the Hakko 900M-T is recommended. Don't be tempted to use a .5mm tip, the heat transfer is not as good and with techniques like drag soldering (youtube it) there's really no reason for it.

For iron temps, if you're using standard rosin core solder the sweet spot is 430 degrees. At that temp I've fooled around with sensitive surface mount parts for longer than I should have and they've all survived.

If you're shopping for a pencil that will last, look at the value models from aoyue and hakko. if you have a bigger budget, weller is the brand to own.

invest in good tools, and practice makes perfect.

WD-40, for the most part, is piss poor at doing anything well. It is over marketed, over hyped at what it does. It is a lubricant, a poor one. It is also a rust penetrator, a poor one. In the shop, we called it monkey piss, because you might as well have used monkey piss to get that rusty rotor that has seen 10 salty Midwest winters, off the hub.

It works as a jack of all trades (kinda), which makes it handy for the home owner that wants one can that can do many things. In reality, if you want a lubricant, get a proper one. If you want a rust inhibitor, there are brands available that do the job much quicker, that foam up, penetrate and stick to the rust (instead of dripping off) where you can see the rust pulled away and fall off. Go to your auto parts supplier and ask the guys who do wholesale for the local shops, and they'll point you to what is used. If they recommend WD-40, walk out.

Edit: Thanks to DrCockenstein for reminding what we used, PB Blaster. Here's an Amazon link to the product.
I can't recommend it enough if you are trying to loosen something rusty.

https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-11-Ounces/dp/B000I2079E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483636915&sr=8-1&keywords=pb+blaster#customerReviews
TLDR: WD-40 is garbage, a proper lubricant should be purchased.

I haven't gotten quite that desperate yet, but I may eventually try out one of the portable models they have on Amazon: http://amzn.com/B008CSDKSQ.

Edit: To follow-up on your comment about how Americans can live without it, it's mostly a matter of ignorance. Nobody here seems to know that there's a better way. Once someone tries it though, they can rarely ever go back.

Yep. I really hope they catch on -- literally everyone I know who has tried it has loved it.

I've tried wetting toilet paper when I'm traveling, but it's just nowhere near the same. HOLY SHIT I was just typing "maybe I should come up with some sort of travel bidet," and did a quick google.

It is a thing and it may change my life.

Je me suis toujours demandé, vous transportez quoi vous, dans vos sacs à dos ? Depuis que je me suis intéressé à se qu'on appel des EDC (Every Day Carry), je transporte toujours avec moi un équipement qui ferait passer Marry Poppins pour une petite joueuse. Mes recherches sur le sujet m'ont forcement fait passer par le survivalisme, qui est un sujet vachement intéressant ! Mais comme pour la muscu j'ai du subir tout les clichés qui vont avec... Exemple rapide :
Muscu = Gros cons masculiniste superficiel et beauf
Survivalisme = Facho agressif et asocial

C'est dommage que les gens aient autant de clichés, parce que c'est un domaine très instructif. Bref, en gros j'ai toujours sur moi :

• Mes clés hein, classique
  
• Smartphone
  
• Portefeuille +Un Range piece
  
• Passport
  
• Batterie externe
  
• Mon couteau laguiole (manche en genévrier, lame sandvik 12C27, il me suivra dans la tombe lui !)*
  
• une paire de gants de chantier (pour pouvoir changer une roue par exemple, ou bouger un truc lourd et sale)
  
• Une lampe torche
  
• Un Kindle Paper White
  
• Une gourde Klean Kanteen en inox, fini les bouteilles en plastique \o/
  
• Un couteau Suisse Victorinox*
  
• Une clé USB chiffré, rattaché à mon trousseau de clé, contenant tous mes papiers numérisé (Passeport, permis, diplôme, CV, impôt, bulletin de salaire, etc...)
  
• Un stylo, mais attention, un Space Pen!*
  
• Un bloc note Field Note*
  
• Une Fourchette Cuillere en titane*
  
• Un briquet* (à gaz, bic, classique, les autres risque de sécher si on les utilise pas)
  
• Un stick levre*
  
• Un coupe ongle*
  
• Une brosse à dent (format voyage) avec un mini tube dentifrice.
  
• Un chargeur USB avec le Cable qui vas bien
  
• Un SSD Portable
  
• Des capotes*. Ba quoi ?
  
• Un baladeur Cowon J3
  
• Des Bouchons d'oreille (bien pratique en concert ou dans le métro)
  
• Des écouteurs (une paire bluetooth, une paire filaire)
  
• Une petite bouteille de 75 ml de gel desinfectant
  
• Des lingettes Mercurochrome désinfectante (pour les bobos)* (normalement j'ai une mini trousse de soin, mais je l'ai paumé....)
  
• Des mouchoirs.
  
• Une serviette microfibre ultra légère (pour pouvoir poser son cul n'importe ou)
  
• Le tout dans un Sac Rush 24 de chez 5.11
  
  
  *Rangé dans une pochette Maxpedition.
  
  
  Voila. J'vais peut être passer pour un gros taré aux yeux de certains, mais ça m'a bien aidé d'avoir tout ça sur moi, en de nombreuses occasion. Je vous invite à partager vos sac, comment vous prévoyez les coups dur, votre avis sur le sujet, etc !
  
  PS: Il existe un sous du doux nom de /r/edc, sauf qu'eux, ils rajoutent aussi des armes à feux pour certains ('murica style...).

I bought this and I'm not ashamed. Well, maybe a bit because it's girly light-purple... My reasoning is that it seems like America is the only country really repulsed by the idea, but it solves the cleanliness and any monkeybutt/smell issues, and weighs about the same as a half roll of TP. It's waterproof and reusable, can be sorta crushed, works in any weather (summer or winter), and is a one-time-cost... no resupply.

Backcountry bidet, but only for camping where there's no toilets. No TP garbage and cleans your nether regions really well! I have the Brondell GoSpa

I use this utensil and this bowl. Both take up very little space in my backpack.

(Yes, I know the bowl is marketed for "pets" but it holds human food just fine and is collapsable. It meets my needs, even as a non-pet.)

For anyone looking to get into whetstone sharpening, just know that it's really not all that difficult.

A good starter stone is the Shapton Pro 1k which can be found on Amazon for just $36. It's a splash and go stone that doesn't require any soaking and it's a hard stone that doesn't dish fast.

While the 1k is a good starting point for any knife that isn't already a butter knife, the 320 grit would be necessary for turning that butter knife into a real knife again.

If you want something with more polish and a higher level of sharpness, the 5000 grit will offer a good deal of edge refinement without going too crazy. However, this is pretty much pointless for any knife under 60 HRC (a Wusthof is at 58 HRC which is pushing it) since that softer steel won't hold a 5k edge for very long at all.

These Kuromaku stones are real Shapton Pros, but those manufactured for the Japanese market. The versions for the western market have differently labeling printed on the stones, but are otherwise identical. Prices for Kuromaku Shaptons vary widly on Amazon so it's worth waiting for a deal, and only a few are actually available at these lower prices.

An even cheaper option is the King 1k/6k combination stone which is viable, but not something I usually recommend. It dishes fast, the 6k side is overkill for most home cooks, and from what I've heard using the stone isn't a particularly good experience.

If you would like to learn about sharpening in general, or how to do it, start here: https://www.reddit.com/r/chefknives/wiki/sharpening

And if you're looking for a knife or how to care for it, consider stopping by /r/chefknives!

I highly recommend the Light My Fire titanium spork.

I bought this off Amazon and haven't had any problems.
https://smile.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU

TLDR: No instructions came with the DIY kit, which is probably fine for the most part, but I had no idea wtf i was doing, so I wanted to post some info in case others were running into the same lack of how-to information when it came to simple stuff like "which wires do I solder to the usb-a/usb-c/aviator (gx16-4) connector?" or even "How to fish the cable through the paracord/techflex sleeving?" Also to see if any assumptions i made were wrong before I plug this into the Massdrop ALT keyboard that's en route.

​

Prior to attemping this, I haven't done anything electrical related anything, didn't own any of the tools other than a set of wire cutters and I basically didn't know what search terms to even search for.. so keep that in mind when reading. Also, ZapCables weren't taking orders when I wanted to make an order, so I figured "how hard could it be for a newb?" Wrong.

​

Things I still don't know:

- [solved: it works!] I'm not sure if my cable actually works because I don't own any USB-C devices other than a power bank that has a USB-C connection. I plugged it in to an ac adapter connected to the wall then connected it to the power bank and it turned on AND the cable didn't melt (hooray), so I assume power is working.

- I have no idea how to test if the rest of it works. I realized after I pieced this all together I probably could have tested the connections somehow, but I really don't want to dismantle this thing now. I'm planning to just plug it in to the ALT when it arrives and do a rain dance in the hopes that everything works.

​

Assembly Steps

​

Step 1: I bought a cheap soldering kit off of amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XZ31W3M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and hoped for the best.

​

Step 2: Stripping the usb cable and incredibly tiny wires inside

- Wire Cutters/wire stripping tool: this worked fine for the USB cable casing, but not for the wires inside. For the inner wires, it only worked 50% of the time because I couldn't get the feel right and kept cutting the strands of the wires when peeling them off. I bought a wire stripping tool and the one i got didn't work as the wires were too small. SIGH.

​

- Soldering iron: i saw some people just melt the casing off, and this kind of worked, but because the already tiny ass wires were stranded (had even more impossibly thin wires inside), the plastic melted between the strands and it took just as long to clean it off before tinning the wire.

​

- What worked for me: I ended up figuring out I could use the soldering iron to melt the plastic away to create a notch where I wanted to start stripping the wire away. Once I melted around the wire, I used my fingers and pulled the plastic off, and the underlying strands of wire were clean and in tact.

​

Step 3: Tinning the stripped wires

- What worked for me: I set the soldering heat on the soldering iron to be around 350deg or a little less as I found any higher and the solder would burn and disappear before I could get it on the wires. I took the tweezers and twisted the strands so they would not come apart when applying heat. Then I heated up the twisted wire with the soldering iron and put the solder on it and moved it all around. Seemed to work.

​

Step 4: Soldering tinned wires to the connector USB-A connector

- I have no idea if I did this correctly. Even though the packaging for USB-A had the wires in order GND, D+, D- and VCC marked, it wasn't clear to me which orientation to have the connector so that the label made sense. I assumed if your wires are on the left, and the connector is on the right, then the top connection point on the USB-A connector was GND. The connection points weren't labeled sooooo I hoped for the best. Once that was done, i assembled the rest of the connector's metal casing. To solder, I added heat to the tinned wire and it connected. I was paranoid about having the solder spread to the other connection points (the USB-C connector has no barriers unlike the A) so i didn't add extra on top.

​

Step 5: Fishing the cable through the paracord/TechFlex

- There's some videos of how to do this for the paracord on youtube, but I couldn't find a way to hack it and make it faster, so i pushed it through one aggravating inch at at time. The Techflex was easy because.. well it can flex.

​

Step 6: Soldering the male side of the Aviator/GX16-4 to your USB cable

- I don't think it matters if you choose male or female part of the connector. I chose the male side because it was easiest to detach the cover (just unscrew it) and expose the solder points. First I threaded the cable through the heat shrink to the USB-A connector. You don't have to do this but I found not all of the heat shrink pieces I got could fit over the connector. Next, I threaded the USB-Cable with the paracord/techflex through cover that was just unscrewed and left it on the cable. Looking at the male GX16-4 solder points, they are labeled 1-4, and I chose the soldering points 1:GND, 2:D+, 3:D-, 4:VCC. You'll do the same for the female connector.

​

Special note: I emailed ZapCables because I was initially confused AF when I saw the GX16 connector and had no idea what to do. John promptly replied with the tip about the labels. Thanks John! He also mentioned they might be making their own tutorial which I think they should do because I found this hard given I don't have any experience doing this.

​

When the soldering was done, I connected the GX16-4 cover back to the male connector. Be sure not to twist the cable while you're re-attaching. I ended up tearing the wires off from over-twisting and proceeded to die inside when I realized I had to do it all over.

​

At this point, you have half the cable and it's pretty much the same for the other half EXCEPT that for the female GX16-4 cable, detaching the cover to expose the solder points requires you have an small screw driver to unscrew yet another miniscule screw. The set of tiny screw drivers I use for my glasses/computers was not small enough, I was able to find one that worked in a random set i had in the garage. The size was not marked, so I have no idea what to tell you guys :( If you manage to get it off, twise the cover 1/4 rotation to the left and then pull.

​

Step 7: Do steps 2-6 for the other side of the cable + female GX16-4 connector

​

If you decide to go this route and you also have no idea what you're doing, I suggest you definitely order a little more length for the usb cable/paracord/techflex. I got a 4ft cable, and in the end, with connectors on and all, i'm 3-4 inches short of 4ft because of all the mistakes I made.

​

I hope this helps someone who wants a nice cable but can't be bothered to wait.. but can be bothered to be frustrated by the assembly process.

​

*Edit: grammar/spelling*

​

EDIT: Update on the cable, some of the parts that i soldered between the cable did not have a good connection, bending the wire ever so slightly would cause the keyboard to connect/disconnect, so i probably have to redo the connections to the male/female gx16-4 connectors.

​

EDIT2: After a quick email to ZapCables, John mentioned that i had too much exposed wire that was touching (near solder points) and suggested I resolder with less exposed wire to prevent this from happening. Rather than do that and figure out how to desolder, I took some electrical tape and wrapped any exposed wire connecting at the solder points to the USB-A/USB-C/GX16-4 connector. Happy to say, it's all working and I am now successfully using this cable. 5/5 for ZapCables and John for help.

So I got into the first batch on massdrop for the WhiteFox by Matt3o. Price wasn't too bad, picked the Aria with Cherry MX browns, came out to 189 shipped I believe (I can look at massdrop, but I don't recall if that included shipping or not). I will say that this wasn't planned, or at least I didn't think it was planned. I thought I got the assembled version, but I actually got the kit. I contacted massdrop about it, who was very kind but simply told me what I ordered and provided the receipt. Yup, I fucked up... or did I?

For those who are like me, decent with there hands but never did this before don't sweat it. It isn't that hard, but here are a few tips (esp if you have a WhiteFox you need to assemble):

• Google. Matt3o had a great post on this with some videos / catchy music. There is also a video series from Input Club.
  
• Get a decent iron. I got the Weller WLC100 from Amazon, cost me 40 bucks with a thing of .3mm rosin core solder. I think the steel wool cleaner was another 5 bucks since I didn't trust a 500F tip against a sponge :)
  
• If you get the Weller WLC100, or any Iron that has a tip that looks like a screw driver get a chizzel tip. It was a pain in the ass to do the LED with that flat tip. I would recommend also a steel wool cleaner, not required but made cleaning the tip while the iron was hot easy as hell.
  
  Soldering the switches was a breeze. Did I fuck up a few solders? Sure, but the switch works :) Did I fuck up a few of the LED and had to desolder / resolder them, fuck ya lol. The LED solder pads are fucking tiny. That is all I will have to say. My only tip would be take your time, and when you put the LED in make sure you bent the leads a bit to make sure they don't fall through (now you know why I had to desolder and resolder).
  
  Besides that from unboxing to testing fully on my wife's laptop (ill get into that below, which is kinda funny) took me a little under 3 hours.. Not bad for a first time, and the feeling that I actually built something I will use for years to come is amazing. The keyboard overall is a joy to type on, and I love it.
  
  The only non-keyboard related issue I had was with the LED actually. So I did the top row of LEDs, and then plugged it into my machine. Machine recognized the keyboard like it did with all the switch tests I did as I soldered them, the LED would turn on and then off about two seconds later. I panicked, checked the solder joints and then searched the internet. I got nowhere, so I emailed Mat3o. Since it was late, I went to my wife's laptop downstairs (mine is in the truck, and I am too lazy to undo the alarm to go outside and get it) and it worked fine. Everything worked fine. This computer will be formatted tomorrow since there is a number of issues I found with system files, thank you Windows 10 updates /s (I looked at the windows updates logs to when the issue started - or issues, and it was after an update which ended up corrupting a few system DLL).
  
  TL;DR:
  
  
• Build my first mechanical keyboard
  
• Hate soldering LED(s), will never do it again
  
• Love the WhiteFox Aria
  
  Edit
  
  Does anyone understand how the hell you update the firmware?
  
  Edit #2
  
  Along with updating the firmware, a manual or at least tell me which controller is in here :)
  
  Super Important Edit #3
  
  Flash your firmware! /u/mister-la gave me a great article here but I wanted to add that for some reason my board came with some firmware issues which caused the LED issue. It was only happening on Windows 10 for whatever reason, and what would happen is the keyboard would be recognized by Windows and LED would turn on, along with do the little "device plugged in" noise. About 2-3 seconds later the keyboard would still function but the LED would not work, and then do the "device disconnected" chime. I did some Google FU along with searching the input club and realized back in late May they released a new firmware to solve a ton of USB bugs for the KLL board, which is what the WhiteFox runs.
  
  I ended up following the article above except the GUI tool ended up crashing. What I did was take a blank Aria firmware from input.club, and flashing it with dfu-util.exe. It is really simple:
  
  

1. Download your firmware into a separate folder if you want, mine is C:\WhiteFox\Firmware
   
   
2. Download the KII-DFU into a separate folder. Mine is under C:\WhiteFox\KII-DFU
   
   
3. Open a command prompt as an admin (winkey + X, command prompt with admin) and then change directory to your KII-DFU folder (CD C:\WhiteFox\KII-DFU)
   
   
4. Connect a separate keyboard, and then on the back of your whitefox click the little button in the back of the keyboard (there is a hole in the frame so you can get to it with a small allen key). Hold it down until the keyboard disconnects from Windows and then release the button. It should be orange.
   
   
5. Run the following command, which will flash the firmware and then reboot the keyboard: KII-DFU.exe -D C:\WhiteFox\Firmware\kiibohd.dfu.bin
   
   That is what fixed my keyboard, and now it works wonderfully. I think its pretty awesome how the configurator tool on Input Club allows you to remap a bunch of the keys with ease, and then using the command line flashing is a breeze.
   
   Cheers!
   
   
   
   
   
   

Leatherman Style PS

Sort of tempted to get one of these sometime. Could probably just keep it in one of my cargo pockets even.

C'mon OP...

• Bialetti Moka pot
  
  
• Lido 2 hand grinder
  
  
• Lodge cast iron skillets one large one small
  
  
• Lodge enameled cast iron dutch oven
  
  
• All clad copper core sauce pan
  
  
• Miele washing machine
  
  
• Miele C2 vacuum cleaner
  
  
• Vitamix 5200
  
  
• Duralex glasses - tumblers??
  
  
• Zojirushi NS-LLH05 rice cooker - only 1 left!
  
  
• Cuisinart Perfectemp Kettle
  
  
• OXO Good Grips Stainless Steel Food Scale
  
  
• OXO Good Grips Cutting board
  
  
• Corelle winter frost dinnerware set
  
  
• Light my fire titanium fork-spoon-knife - spork?
  
  
• Darn Tough socks
  
  
• Exofficio briefs
  
  
• Felco 2 Secateurs
  
  
• Wahl Peanut beard trimmer
  
  
• Dualit Toaster
  
  
• P38 can opener??
  
  
• Zwilling J.A. Henckels knife set
  

The only thing I can think of is 'TSA friendly' tools:
http://smile.amazon.com/Leatherman-831488-Style-PS-Multitool/dp/B0058RX9NU/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1417968012&sr=1-1&keywords=tsa+multitool

I think the better option -because I advocate always having a blade on you- would be to remember to just leave the blade in your car, or ask for it back when you leave. I'm not sure how often you go through security checks or what their posture is either so that advice could be useless.

I was in your shoes not too long ago, it's overwhelming! Here's a list of things that I bought, but I am not an expert so if others have better input go for that:

Equipment

• 10 gallon tank with hood
  
• Broad Spectrum Light The one that came with the hood did not provide enough for the plants, you definitely need to invest in a broad spectrum bulb.
  
• CaribSea Flora Max Substrate I learned that shrimp prefer darker color substrate, this was worth the investment! My shrimp were so unhappy with cheap gravel, after switching to this substrate they are very active.
  
• Air pump
  
• Sponge filter
  
• Heater, maybe optional for you?
  
• Thermometer
  
• Gallon Bucket
  
• Siphon
  
• Seachem Prime Because it's a smaller tank, I ended up poking a pinhole sized hole in the seal so that I could use it as drops rather than pouring it in.
  
• [Seachem Stability] (https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-67101230-Stability-500ml/dp/B0002APIIW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1499786377&sr=1-1&keywords=seachem+stability) Use this while you're cycling your tank, follow the instructions.
  
• API Test Kit
  
• Feeding Tray For the longest time I was really confused as to how the feeding tray worked, you can either get a tube or pre-soak the pellets and then drop them into the tray using long tweezers. This will help prevent ammonia/nitrite spikes.
  
• Long Tweezer Set
  
• Pellets Do also feed them blanched vegetables, make sure to peel the skin and buy organic to avoid chemicals/pesticides
  
• Timer Outlet Worth the investment! So you don't have to keep remembering to turn the light on and off.
  
  Shop for whatever is cheaper, I have a huge heater because I had an extra one from before. I've read that it's not necessary but also have read that if you want them to breed you need to stimulate warm water. For now, I keep the heater off and leave it at room temperature of 72F. They seem very happy! Most important in my opinion, add plenty of plants and a marimo ball or 2.
  
  Lastly, I'm unsure of the siphon, I think it's good to have a bucket and siphon just in case your water parameters are looking bad so you are prepared to do a water change. From what I read, shrimp have a very low bio load and should be able to sustain themselves. Make sure to do tests regularly.
  
  EDIT I just read that this is your first aquarium, so here is a detailed write up:
  
  Setting up your tank
  
  
• 1. Find a stable top to place your aquarium on, keep in mind a well sunlit room will mean more plant/algae growth. Make sure it's sturdy and made for heavy objects, don't want to place it on a flimsy shelf or it might break! I keep mine on top a waterproof place mat because water drips are going to happen.
     
• 2. Rinse everything as a precaution! NEVER use dish soap!! If you must sanitize, vinegar is okay. Just make sure to rinse thoroughly. Also, NEVER use any kind of soap on your hands before handling things, just rinse well with water. Add your substrate, I lightly rinsed mine as there are beneficial bacteria living inside the substrate, pour it in. Make sure it's at least 2" of floor. Your water will be cloudy if you bought the substrate I listed, don't worry as it will settle after an hour and be clear.
     
• 3. Fill water half way, use a small plate and pour the water on top of that to avoid the substrate being pushed around. NEVER use hot water! If you're using tap water be sure to always use cold water. It's also recommended to purchase "RO water" (Reverse Osmosis Water) as some times your tap water can be too "hard". The best thing to do is use the test kit on tap water and go from there. If the kH/gH are very high 100+ you will need to use RO water. I like to place my plants and decor now while the tank is half full. Place in your thermometer, heater, sponge filter, etc. After that, continue to fill all the way to the top remembering to aim the stream on top the plate. Leave about a half to an inch from the top.
     
• 4. Take out plate, plug in filter, add in Seachem Prime and Seachem Stability. Please read the label for instructions and dosage according to your tank size. Since there is nothing inside you can add it after you've added the water to the tank. Moving forward, be sure to add the chemicals in the water bucket BEFORE pouring into the tank.
     
• 5. Turn on filter, wait for the water to settle and temperature to come up. They say shrimp can tolerate 52F to 86F but ideally room temperature water is best, this is where your water heater will come into play. Follow which ever cycling method you choose before purchasing your shrimp. This can take up to 6 weeks.
     
     After your tank has cycled
     
     
• 1. When adding your shrimp, there are many methods, the way I acclimate my shrimp is:
     
• 2. Put the shrimp in a 1 gallon tub using the water that they came in.
     
• 3. Drop in a tablespoon of the tank water, ONCE every 2 minutes.
     
• 4. After the water has reached 1/3 old water, 2/3rd new water, your shrimp are ready to be placed into your tank.
     
     Please don't skip the important step of acclimating your shrimp! They are very sensitive to water changes and this ensures that they will survive.
     
     Here are my water parameters, people have all kinds of ranges but this is what works for me:
     
     
• kH: 60 / gH: 40 / pH: 7.0 / NO2: 0 / NO3: 20 / Ammonia: 0 / Temperature: 72F
  
  I hope this helps... again, I was in your shoes not too long ago, it was really overwhelming. But after a lot of research I think my tank is in a good place :). Other users, if there's anything in my list that seems incorrect please let me know!

Here

I didn't really have any aviation related gear as a CFI. I had my headset which was way too expensive for my girlfriend to want to buy me, and I used a Jansport backpack from high school as my flight bag.

Once I got to the airlines my 'gear' increased immensely. Since I'm on the road a lot I have two of everything. Two of each toiletry, two razors, two phone chargers, two pairs of running shoes. I've forgotten things so many times that now I just keep one set of everything in my overnight bag, with a separate set at home and that way I can never forget anything on a trip.

For strictly flying related expenses I have an Aerocoast EFB bag, luggage works suitcase, nice sunglasses, a backup power brick, an anker 5 port charger, this incredibly expensive spork, some window shades, a pen recorder because passengers are idiots. Other than the sunglasses, I didn't need any of that as a CFI.

This is nice and I appreciate all the thought that went into it.

And yet, I find double-ended utensils annoying. If one end has good on it, it's awkward to use the other end.

I'd rather have this than this

Victorinox makes a 'my first' pocket knife which has a rounded tip that will prevent stabbing. There's also the flight safe swiss army knife, the jetsetter if you don't want them to have a 'real' knife right away.

There's also the Leatherman Leap which has a user-installable knife so you can give them that part at a later date or remove it if it turns out they are irresponsible. And Leatherman has a flightsafe multitool too in the leatherman style

There's a Plano tool box where the related items are almost exclusively X-Wing ships.

I hate the wet wipes thing too. I'm super happy to see another travel bidet user here. IMO, it's the best way to keep yourself clean out on the trail.

I use a different one than you do, and it weighs in at 65 grams. I can either use a sheet or two of TP afterwards to dry off, or simply pull up my merino boxers and let the water disperse into them - they're usually dry within a few minutes.

Brondell Travel Bidet on Amazon

Was in Japan over a year ago, and my butt fell in love with the bidet toilet seats. When I returned home, I bought an Izen 5. Great. Before the Izen arrived, and for traveling, I use this. Much rather have the warm water from this, compared to an icy squirt.

After using this combo, the direction of my butt crack is changing...it's becoming a smile. (Hope I didn't offend.)

My Lighting setup:

1. LED Light Strip (Tape style so you can stick it to the glass)
   
   
2. Power Brick for LEDs
   
   
3. Switch for LEDs (Different styles can be used based on user pref) (!NOTE: these do not dim LEDs)
   
   
   

If you really want to learn, pick up a small kit like this, like 7 to 10 switches, and like 10 of any kind of keycap, and finally grab a soldering iron.


All that is around $50 total, and places like keeb.io have really detailed guides on how to assemble their PCBs. It's really not hard once you understand what to get, and once you've built even a small macro pad like that, you'll be able to build even hand wired keyboards no problem. They're really simple once you learn the basics! It's pretty much just legos, but really tiny and using a hot stick.

Sure:

• 4 Buckets from Lowe's
  
• Morsen 216W (55W) Grow light
  
• LED 5050 Strip w/ Power Supply
  
• Timer
  
• Carbon air filter
  
• 4" Inline Fan
  
  
• 4" Ducting
  
• Mylar blankets
  
• A roll of foil tape, roll of black duct tape, and a small bottle of tacky glue from Lowe's
  
• 1 1/4" wood screws from Lowe's
  
• An 80mm PC fan I had from before
  

Not op but I go out at night with a uv flashlight and find them. It's stupid easy.

i carry this with me to work.

Plano Molding 5231 Double Cover Stow N Go Organizer, Porsche Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HJ9514/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p6cpxb4BSG38Q

This seems to be an inexpensive and popular choice. It's what I we with when starting a collection.

Spray, let it soak in, repeat.

Leatherman Style PS

Swiss Army Jetsetter

Just because the don't have a blade though doesn't mean the TSA won't take them. TSA don't give a shit, TSA just take what they want.

Buy a UV flashlight:

https://www.amazon.com/Escolite-Flashlight-Ultraviolet-Blacklight-Detector/dp/B008133KB4

Go around the house after dark with the lights out and look for the urine stains. If they are there (and I bet they are), you will see them fluoresce. Once you know where they are hiding, you can eliminate them with enzymes:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/UNITED-PET-GROUP-32OZ-Urine-Destroyer-P-5727/20838653

https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Miracle-Destroyer-32-Ounce-P-5721/dp/B003I5QRJ2

Note: This does not work instantly. You have to mist the affected areas two or three times a day. Will take several days to break down the odor causing compounds into their base components. But this should work for you.

Grab yourself a can of PB Blaster, let it sit on the connection for 15 minutes, then try again with the channel locks.

If you're in an area subject to freezing, I would also consider replacing that hose bib with a frost free hose bib. Much better than forgetting to close the shutoff valve in the basement/crawl space.

Light my Fire of Sweden's titanium spork. Got it at Natural Grocers for $11.79.

List!

Watch: Luminox Navy Seal, it was a gift from my dad on my 18th birthday

Organizer: Hitch & Timber Runt 2.0 with a Wet Ones hand wipe in the back pocket

Chapstick: Burts Bees Vanilla Bean with electrical tape on it so its easier to pull out of the organizer

Flashlight: RovyVon A8U with a random paracord thing i made

Wallet: Maxpedition LPW

Pen: Pilot G2

Mulitool: Leatherman Style PS

Keys: Linwnil belt key hanger with a set of 2 KeySmart MagConnects, with a sim card remover too

> Klein Victorinox

In a few years there are knives made just for kids, though not school appropriate:

Opinel: https://www.amazon.com/Opinel-OP01698-Round-Safety-Knife/dp/B07MBK89TX/ref=sr_1_1
SAK: https://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Swiss-Army-First-Knife/dp/B001AXCU5Y/ref=sr_1_5

And there are bladeless tools made for travel:

Leatherman: https://www.amazon.com/LEATHERMAN-Style-PS-Multitool-Black/dp/B0058RX9NU/ref=sr_1_2
Gerber: https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Dime-Travel-Bladeless-Knife/dp/B00TOJCDM6/
SOG: https://www.amazon.com/SOG-PowerLock-Traveler-Multi-Tool-S61TR-CP/dp/B00T0UR5SG/

Yes works great with leds!

Tenma 21-8240 Vacuum Desoldering Iron https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DJRYIG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apap_4HuPH8htp6ZEX

Just one more thing to add:
if you are really worried about the stamp showing in pictures, you could buy an ininked stamp pad and invisible ink, plus a blacklight (if your DJ doesn't have one) for a total of $24.

1. Regular bug spray outdoors; keep your property free of insects so there's nothing for them to eat. That's a long game and won't be effective until next year.
   
   
2. Immediate answer: Population control. Get a black light and a boot/flyswatter/predator drone/whatever and smash the ones you find outdoors each evening until you can't find them any more. They're usually at the bases of the block walls, rocks and the house stucco after 10pm. You'll be able to easily see them 15 feet away with the black light.
   
   If they're coming inside, wander around with the black light after the house has been dark for an hour to see if they're on any of your baseboards/walls. They mostly come at night... Mostly.
   
   Spread out the DE like Gibus mentioned.
   
   Edit: Just to be clear, regular bug spray doesn't do anything to them since they don't absorb it, so DE and stomp & smash is pretty much it unless you go with some much nastier poisons.
   

This. You don’t need to talk to your landlord about it at all. It’s not the same as painting or putting holes in the wall, which are permanent changes the landlord has to fix after you leave. Those bidet attachments are easily installed and removable, so the landlord will never know.

Also, ditch the restaurant plan. Unless you are backed by investors, own a patent to bidet, and include installation, no one is going to take you seriously. A much cheaper and more convenient option would be to get a travel bidet bottle like this one from Amazon. You can take it with you wherever you go.

Also, an all liquid diet will still make you poop but it will be diarrhea unless you find a way to get sufficient fiber. Unfortunately I am speaking from experience! So ditch that plan as well.

I would ditch the wet wipes altogether. Even if they are unscented, they still contain detergents and other things that might be upsetting your skin. (For example, this is how I found out I am allergic to aloe vera.) Start using a bidet to clean your backside instead. If you don’t want to install a bidet onto your toilet, get a travel bidet. Cheap and easy to use.

I'll link the full order:

• LED light strip
  
• LED light strip power connector 8mm
  
• L-shape LED strip connector
  
• DC power adapter
  
• DC cable extension
  
• DC switch
  
• DC cable splitter
  
  I am not 100% happy with the light strip I got. They are super sensitive to the power draw and flickers time to time(maybe it's the power adapter =/). Though, it's cheap and does its job pretty well!
  
  [EDIT] correcting the led power connect as opinted out by /u/BishoujoReview
  
  [EDIT] flickering was due to an old extension cord. I plugged the power adapter directly to the wall outlet and that solved the problem.

I really like the Light My Fire utensil. It's got great utility and even has a tiny serrated knife!

Here are some affordable and extremely high quality whetstones. I recommend getting at least the 320# and 1000# or 2000#. The $2-3 whetstones will be of shitty quality, not something I'd be happy to use on a kitchen knife.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004D2GCR6?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001TPFT0G?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001TPH8YG?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

Left to Right, mostly:



Green Cards - I switch this out with other cards pretty regularly, but it matched today. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ESWPAKU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_R-0TDbZEN6C0N )



Slim Wallet - It's super thin and it attaches to my phone. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P4J55NV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9msGDb54PTKM2 )



Watch - It's durable and in my opinion doesn't look too bad for the price. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009KYJAJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BosGDbN06048V )



Wireless Earbuds - They are dated so they aren't the best anymore, but they are still pretty good. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07582VVJR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QnCDDbV5X5EQY )



Multitool - It doesn't have a knife so I take this to school. It's not the best, but it does small things great. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058RX9NU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_Rc1TDbRPMMDB0 )



Flashlight - For the size, it is really bright. It doesn't last forever, but it is rechargeable. I recommend it for something small. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GQRJLDP/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_6g1TDb65T465P )



Knife - This sub knows this knife. ( https://www.bladehq.com/item--Benchmade-Bugout-AXIS-Lock-Knife--98607 )



Necklace - Totally normal carbon fiber dog tag. ( https://www.bladehq.com/item--Spyderco-Panchenko-Dog-Tag-Folder--29966 )


If anyone has any questions about any of this stuff, leave a comment and I'll do my best to respond. To clarify, the knife goes in my pocket and I put on the necklace after school. 

Thanks for taking the time to check out my post! Have a good rest of your day everyone!

I bought this go control unit from amazon back in October and set it up without much trouble. Initially I just had a hub and this for my garage to be able to check the door status after we left the house and my wife would question whether the door had closed.

I was in my basement at about 10pm the first time I heard the garage open. I thought it was odd since I knew my wife was upstairs on her computer so I checked it out and asked if she had triggered the door to open from her phone though I wasn't sure if she knew she could do this. I checked a few things on the smart things app, shut the door from the OG button outside and went to bed.

About a month later I woke up and headed out to work to find the garage door open. When I got to my car I immediately knew it had been gone through. Nothing valuable to a thief was stolen but they did take the hand mics to both my ham radio and my cb (I offroad and use these to communicate with my group), a knife that was in the driver front door pocket, and a car phone charger.

I checked my wifes car and saw that the center console had been tossed. Her car is kind of a mess so although I knew someone had gone through it I couldn't tell if anything was gone. I knew I couldn't do anything about it at that point so I left for work and an hour later when I knew she'd be awake I texted her about what had happened. She walked down to check the garage and it was open again after I know it closed when I left. She closed it and did her thing before also leaving for work.

I was in the middle of something at the office so I couldn't immediately leave but a few minutes later I went home (20 minutes away) and disconnected the GoControl. I haven't done anything with it since then. I did realize later though that the thief took my dewalt 20v battery and unplugged my charger to also take but actually left because the power cable was twisted around a few different things. I feel fortunate that they didn't steal more because I had my drills and other tools right in front of my car on a work bench.

Here is my current (year-round) setup! I moved into a new apartment with only north and west facing windows, and nothing was getting enough light. So recently I upgraded my setup.

• [Shelf] (https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-Shelf-Shelving-Unit-Chrome/dp/B01M0XLTT5)
  
  
• Lights
  
  
• Timer
  
  I have the lights on for about 12 hours a day.
  
  I used to have a clamp lamp with CFL, and that worked for a bit, but I was trying to squeeze too many plants under it so they started to get etiolated. In comparison, these lights are amazing. You can see that some of the plants were etiolated but are now growing compactly!

That's kind of a tough set of requirements. Most of the lights we generally recommend have done away with the red mode in favor of a very dim white. While there are some military requirements that dictate its use, generally speaking you need a lot more red brightness to see what you're able to with a lower level of white. For many years it was hard to make a white light dim enough to do this properly, but technology has caught up. We can probably recommend some, but they aren't going to be the best lights around.

Next issue is the rubber strap. There are probably some available, but none that I know of off the top of my head. Most lights use an elastic fabric strap. You could probably replace it with some rubber if necessary, but the industry standard is something else.

The Skilhunt H03 mentioned in another comment is a really excellent light, it uses an 18650 size battery, which is the best compromise of size versus runtime that you'll find, and an unbeatable light for the money. You can find one here. You'll also need a couple of Batteries and a charger. This is the best setup you'll get for the $50 budget.

If by single-strap you mean that you don't want one going over the top of the head, an AA form factor light would probably be your best bet. The Thrunite TH20 is a steal for $30. It runs on normal AA batteries (not recommended because they leak, but doable in a pinch) or 14500 lithium cells. With the 14500 cells, it has over 500 lumens of brightness at the top level, and a ramping interface that lets you choose exactly the amount of light you want. It's lightweight, tough, waterproof, and the controls are intuitive. It has a very low moonlight mode that I'd rather have than any of my previous red mode lights, and there's a direct shortcut to it so you don't have to scroll through higher modes in order to get to it. If you go this route, you'd need some of these batteries and the charger I linked to above. Note that the battery and charger links are not to Amazon, there is a risk of counterfeit batteries buying there, so most people here buy from illumn.com or liionwholesale.com.

I realize these suggestions are a bit of departure from what you are asking for, but based on what I understand of your use case I think they would be your best options.

Thought I would share since this is a pretty recent development, and I was about an hour away from installing this at my vacation rental property... For those interested, The GoControl z-wave garage door opener will work with a Smart Things hub and is officially supported.

Pretty pissed that I won't finish the automation install at this house this weekend but really glad I didn't was a whole bunch of time installing this!

You could go even simpler by plugging your fish tank pump into a programmable electric timer like this one (Amazon, $13). You won't have the ability to water remotely, but how often do you need to water your trees outside of a regular watering schedule?

If you’re sure 15 minute cycles are good, then mechanical timers work great and are super easy to program. I’ve used these in the past:

Century 24 Hour Plug-in Mechanical Timer Grounded https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVFF59S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cqeYzb0HS34MQ

However, except price, digital timers are pretty much better in every way. I once had an issue where 15 minutes was too long for an ebb and flow I built. Pump was too strong, overflow didn’t drain fast enough. I switched to digital to do a shorter interval and the problem was mostly fixed. Not exactly a common scenario, but for a couple bucks extra, the convenience of digital can certainly be worth it.

This Plano box for storing my extra ships and components. I have 4.

This Plano tacklebox for storing and transporting the lists that I'm currently playing. You can definitely fit all that. I also recommend getting some bubble wrap. They sell it in large rolls at hobby stores like Hobby Lobby. I bought a roll for like $5 a couple years ago and I still haven't used it all. It makes for good padding.

I use a Plano 5231 for my tournament box.

http://www.amazon.com/Plano-Molding-5231-Organizer-Porsche/dp/B000HJ9514/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1425779123&sr=8-4&keywords=plano

2 Level Plano container has plenty of compartments up top for tokens, asteroids, damage decks galore. As well as flat ships like X-Wings etc, bottom level deep enough to hold YTs and Decimators with ease, as well as pilot cards, loadouts, and taller ships, like Ties and B-Wings

First I would try a real penetrating oil like PB Blaster. It will suck into those threads and start dissolving the rust and also lubricate between the threads. Give those nuts a little tap with a wrench or something lightly after you spray it. Give it about 20 minutes to work. Also make sure you're not using one of these.

WD-40 is sort of a general purpose chemical. It's decent at a lot of things, but not really great at anything.

Yeah that's easy. PB Blaster...by far the best stuff I've ever used at removing bolts or other severly rusted/stuck things(far far better than WD-40)

Just read these reviews...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B000I2079E/ref=mw_dp_cr

Titanium Spork: https://smile.amazon.com/Light-My-Fire-Titanium-Spork/dp/B001E7S5BO/

Balisong trainer butterfly knife: https://smile.amazon.com/Amarey-Butterfly-Knife-Trainer-Unsharpened/dp/B01N2OPT60/

Novelty switchblade comb: https://smile.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Switch-Blade-Comb/dp/B00A967Q3O/

Kickboxing gloves: https://smile.amazon.com/Everlast-MMA-Kick-Boxing-Gloves/dp/B005OOFTA8/

Foam Nunchakus: https://smile.amazon.com/Sets-Ninja-Foam-Rubber-Nunchakus/dp/B01ER3FPNC/

(there's also Nerf swords on amazon, good for a quick battle)

MALL NINJA PATCH!!! https://smile.amazon.com/Maxpedition-Mall-Ninja-Patch-SWAT/dp/B00P18G9SI/

Rubber Throwing Stars: https://smile.amazon.com/Eight-Assorted-Rubber-Ninja-Stars/dp/B001NW1MEC/

And a Ninja Mask (that's good in winter too) https://smile.amazon.com/Balaclava-Winter-Fleece-Windproof-Women/dp/B01KG78NVE/

Not entirely mall ninja stuff, but I'm figuring you don't want the 11 year old to be lethal just yet ;)

I backpacked through Russia and China a few years back, and due to the different terrains encountered I had to pack quite a heavy bag (I think my total was almost 17kgs and I hadn't brought anything obviously unnecessary even if it felt that way).

I think you should bring:

1. A spork, preferably a metal spork like this one because it will not break in your bag.
   
   
2. Microfibre towel and maybe a small set of bed linens, you never know about quality in some places.
   
   
3. A small knife or multitool, I'm not going to debate which one because there are loads of them but pretty much any swiss army knife or multitool will do the job good enough for you, and then it's a question about style. I prefer either the victorinox issued to the bundeswehr or a leatherman skeletool, but that's just me.
   
   
4. Painkillers, like acetaminophen.
   
   
5. Flashligt, honestly I always bring a maglite but there is better options out there.
   
   
6. Chargers, I slimmed down a lot in that area for my trip, with my regular cables weighting in at almost 1kg. But make sure to bring what you need to charge in the locations you'll be, and a battery pack.
   
   
7. Shaving utensils. Seriously, you don't want to shave with a one use shaver in the middle of nowhere. Probably included in toiletries.
   
   
8. A bottle for water, hot or cold alike, like a 500mL nalgene bottle or something you can fill with whatever. If going through China you'll routinely get only hot water, remember that.
   
   
9. A few packs of dried frozen food, it's cheap and easy to come by in Australia, and ensured you'll have food in the middle of nowhere. Maybe 1-3 packs depending on your travel (again, if actually going through China you can restock with noodles along the way so bring fewer).
   
   
10. A first aid kit. What you'll probably need is alcohol wipes and band aides, everything else is in case of. Depending on what you're going to do that may include a lot of things or fewer things, but a small kit is a good idea. Depending on where you're going and your ability to eat different types of food I may also add oral rehydration therapy. Again cheap to get and if you'll need it you'll be happy you brought it. It's also a PITA to explain in a foreign language what you want.
    
    
11. A small watertight bag big enough for your electronics. It does rain a lot in some places.
    
    There was another poster /u/flyinglotus1983 who'd had problems finding deodorant and similar items in China, that wasn't an issue for me but it does require some adaptions, so it's easier to bring but still a PITA. I didn't bring a computer, I simply brought my iPhone and iPad, you if I were you I'd consider if you need a computer. If you don't that's a lot of weight you can save.
    
    I would however suggest an e-book reader. Books are heavy and I had loads of time on trains and on busses with nothing to do but read. I read more books in those months that I did in the 2 years prior. It will set you back $100, but in my opinion it's a well worth investment.

I recommend the Victorinox Fibrox, it performs well, it's comfortable and it's very durable. If you find the Fibrox handle too ugly, they offer the same blade but with a rosewood handle.

Care wise, touch up the edge with a hone to ensure it performs the best it can before you begin preparing food. Eventually however the edge will wear down, at which point you will need to sharpen it. For this I recommend the Shapton Kuromaku 1000, for guidence on how to use a whetstone check this playlist out.

The whetstone itself will also need to be maintained, as you use it you will wear it down unevenly and it will need to be flattened. Most people use a diamond plate but there is a more cost effective option that I use which is lapping the stone using SiC powder on glass, which is done like this (be aware however, that this method is MUCH louder and a bit messier than lapping with a diamond plate).

If all of this sounds like too much and you want a more simple care solution then you can get by very well by just using a ceramic sharpening rod. It combines the ability to touch up the edge quickly before use with the ability of a whetstone to remove material from the blade.

I got by with just a ceramic rod for a long time, but eventually bought whetstones when I wanted more control/better long term maintenance.

If you are OK with buying brand new, a few popular options here are some suggestions with Amazon (USA) links:

• Gerber Dime
  
• Leatherman Style CS
  
• Leatherman Style PS
  
• Leatherman Micra
  
• Victorinox Classic SD
  
• Victorinox Tinker
  
• Gerber Shard
  
  There are many other popular "solid state" keychain tools like the Shard out there, but I did not want to list out many of those.

I have one of these. It's a lifesaver for camping. You could most likely use non-potable water without ill effect.

Other options include scrap paper and reusable rags (boil them).

Haha, no, that's not too bright. It has multiple settings.

You won't be able to find a headlamp that's as bright as your handheld flashlight that doesn't use rechargeable batteries. You can always buy more cells and a charger. 18650s are very high capacity (about 5 AAs), so they'll last a long time if you're not using the brightest mode.
If you're really hung up on that though, the ThruNite TH20 is good from what I've heard.

Amazon has GE Z-wave 14291 Switches for $29.33

https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/

LOVE it. looks awesome and I think the effort really paid off.

my only question is, where did you buy the mount for the GPU? Not the PCI Extension cable, the part where it mounts the case.

edit: found it. but where did you buy it?

edit 2: oh, fuck me, it's on Amazon, now. a few months ago, you'd be luck if you got the notification from coolermaster before they sold out. I though I'd come back and leave the link incase someone else wanted it

GE: [zwave] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2) or [zwave+] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R) and a [slave switch] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ).

Edit: where were you planning on putting the motion sensor? GE/Jasco has combined motion sensing switches that work quite well out. 26931 and 26933 are the product numbers.

Replace the timer switch with a Z-Wave switch like this one: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R

Then you can set up a timer in the Smart Lighting app so that whenever that switch if physically pressed, it will stay on for a certain amount of time.

Set up a sensor that monitors humidity like this one: https://www.amazon.com/ZOOZ-Z-Wave-Sensor-Temperature-Humidity/dp/B01AKSO80O

You'll also create a separate automation that activates the fan when that sensor reads above a certain humidity, and turns off when the humidity drops back down. That one is a little more complicated to setup, but not impossible.

I use the Aoyue 701A+, but a lot of people really like Hakko irons, here, like the FX-888. Honestly, it really depends on how much soldering you're going to be doing. I really don't recommend spending $80+ on an iron if you're only ever going to solder one or two boards, because that's not very good value. A lot of people recommending irons forget that. If you only plan to do a board or two, I'd recommend something with a lot of value, like this. This is what I started on. Nothing special, but a lot of features for this price and it worked fine for my first two boards.

This $20 Kit on Amazon might be goo entry level... I have NO idea if the iron is any god but have seen people use them and they work fine. This one comes with a multimeter for a few bucks more. The tool you will find a lot of use for is that curved tweezer. It can open switches, hold components, pick up clipped resistor/diode leads etc.

​

If you have never soldered do NOT let an expensive keyboard be the first time... get some PCB's and resistors and then watch youtube videos of soldering... Pete from 1upkeyboards has tons... you might need to scrub through to get to the soldering or just search youtube for soldering videos. Soldering is not that hard but if you do not know what you are doing it is easy to scew the board up and ruining a board sucks.

​

Think twice, solder once... the biggest mistakes are not thinking it through and then you find you soldered the switches and plate BEFORE the stabilizers or the Pro Micro before switches and desoldering is a pita and is easy to burn the pads.

​

Try the Sweet16 or the 9Key first. You have to setup the QMK software no matter what so those are nice affordable ways to get a board built fast and then build and flash your firmware.

​

Have fun.

To start you need an iron and some lead solder
Link: ANBES Soldering Iron Kit Electronics, 60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Tool, 5pcs Soldering Tips, Desoldering Pump, Soldering Iron Stand, Tweezers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZ31W3M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GXDQAbRAZ26TT

You can get started now for pretty cheap. If you wanted to try and make an aux cable, you could follow my guide here, but I could recommend some cheaper materials so the up-front cost isn't so much.

I just bought some wire on Aliexpress that may be a cheap replacement for the mogami, and you can get a standard cheap soldering iron like this one if you plan on doing electrical work in the future anyway.

Is Preonic worth the investment?

I have a Planck rather than a Preonic but OLKB designs sturdy and reliable boards that are also very interesting.

I honestly think the Planck is like twitter. Having a very low word (key) count makes people more creative in how they express themselves. The Preonic is more like tumbler where more things can be done more easily.

Moving keys to other layers is fine due to the extra thumbable keys on the bottom row. The Preonic doesn't require as many layers because it has so many more keys, so the extra thumb keys aren't really necessary.

That said, it's a nice compromise.

Is it a good build for a beginner?

It's the same difficulty as any other keyboard build that has PCB components soldered on. All you have to do is add switches and through-hole solder them. It's definitely a fine way to learn to solder as long as you follow a few rules.

Most keyboard kits come this way with the exception of those like the Lets Split which you have to solder diodes and a promicro onto also.

The only thing More difficult is getting a PCB printed and buying diodes, resisters, and chips from DigiKey and then using a heat gun or oven to cook all the little things on.

What is a good soldering station?

Cheap ones will work fine. People around here seem to like the Hakko 888d which is what I use. The cheaper ones like this will also work fine. The extra $80 doesn't change much about how you work. Turn on the iron, heat stuff, sponge occasionally, don't touch it to your skin, then put it away safely.

Soldering rules for beginners

1. Don't hold the heat on any part for more than 5 seconds. If it starts looking like a mess, go solder other parts and let things cool off before coming back to fix it. Don't freak out about the speed, just be deliberate and have things ready before you start applying heat
   
2. Use leaded solder because it's much easier to melt and manipulate
   
3. Use rosin core, no clean solder so you don't have to futz around with flux or flux cleaner
   
4. Put the iron down when you're not using it. It is shaped like a pencil and we humans like to tuck those between fingers while manipulating things. Do not do this.
   
   There are a lot of little things to do to maximize soldering experience. You'll figure these out over time. I thing this short list is enough to keep your board intact and blood in your body.

It does have it, but it's an aditional accessory you have to get. Cooler Master, CableMod and Lian li sell them.

Lian Li

Cooler Master

CableMod

Invest in some of this, kicks the shit out of WD-40 for breaking things lose:

http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E

As someone working through this but a few years ahead of you, I'll pass along the list of stuff I've bought and/or wish to buy...

Hand Tools

1. You say you have screwdrivers, but ifs worthwhile to have a full complement of them. You might consider getting a hand tool set like this one. Also, diagonals. Can't stress that enough. Eventually, you might upgrade a lot of these, but it'll get you started.
   
   
2. Ratcheting wrenches, along these lines. Conventional wrenches are functional, but these are much more so.
   
   
3. Ratcheting hex key set. In fact, this one looks good. If you have any Ikea furniture in your future, these will be worth their weight in guld.
   
   
4. Maybe a vise. That particular vice is mid-priced, but you can find well-reviewed vises at just about any price point.
   
   
5. A good range of sand paper grits: 80, 100, 120, 150, 180. You might also pick up a sanding sponge.
   
   Power Tools
   
   
6. A Dremel
   
   
7. Maybe an electric circular saw or a jigsaw. I really don't know which I'd prioritize, but you should probably have at least one of them.
   
   
8. If there's money left over in your budget, I'd suggest a random orbit sander.
   
   
9. A drill press
   
   Also, there are fluids to consider
   
   
10. Simple Green
    
    
11. Penetrating oil
    
    
12. Wood Glue
    
    
13. Mineral Spirits
    
    
14. Linseed Oil
    
    Of these, I'd focus on the hand tools, fluids, and the Dremel. You can always ask someone to buy you a saw for Christmas. If you have these things on hand, there probably won't be a job come along that you can't handle at some basic level. I'm assuming you don't need yard grooming tools, because that's an entirely different list.

Buy some rust remover and use it after you have manually removed most of it with a wire brush. it will get into all the nooks and crannies and dissolve it away and leave you with a totally clean surface. if the rust is really deep it may have pitted the surface, but that shouldn't really be a problem for a jointer unless it's severe. Once the rust is gone you will know for sure what you need to flatten and true up.

The knives almost certainly need to be replaced and re-set, there are probably just a couple of set screws to adjust the cutter height on that model. Don't forget to finish everything with a coat of wax so it all glides smoothly.

Oh, and if any of the adjustment handles are rusted and stuck, B'laster is magical.

I didn't... I think the mods did. So I'm going to sneak in and repost.

What are some of the staple gadgets and gizmos you have to maximize portability, versatility, durability, and price, time, and space efficiency?

Here's my list:

-Feiyue shoes. Crazy cheap, they take up no room, and they don't look out-of-place in most situations.

-Light My Fire titanium spork. This is the only eating utensil I ever use, and I take it everywhere.

-Pyrex 4-cup Bowl. As long as I'm just making food for me, this dish is the only one I need. It can withstand pretty much everything, and the microwave-friendly lid is awesome.

-Platypus roll-up water bottles. Carrying around an empty water bottle is really annoying. These guys hold lots of water, and only take up as much space as the volume of water they contain.

-Milk crates and heavy-duty Rubbermaid containers instead of furniture. The only thing you can really do with a chair is use it as a chair, and the only thing you can do with a chest of drawers is use it as a chest of drawers. Might as well combine the two -- and make them really light and portable to boot!

-Lifetime folding table. This is the closest thing I have to furniture.

-Coleman 4-in-1 Quickbed. It's a twin mattress, or two separate twin mattresses, or a king-size bed, it's comfortable as poo, and it folds up to nothing.

-Night Ize Gear Ties. I've used these for everything from coathangers to patching the handle on a neighbor's lawnmower to attaching the basket to my bike.

-MicroNet Microfiber Towel. Linen actually takes up a surprising amount of room. This guy works great, and folds away to nothing.

-Wellspring FlipNote. I've had my FlipNote for 5 years and it's been in my pocket every single day -- whether I was in South Africa, military combat training, business meetings, or going out with friends. It's an idea journal, an address book, a wallet, a writing surface, a pen... all kinds of stuff, and it's super-slim and super-durable.

-Bug-out bag. This isn't quite the one I have -- mine was about $60 and came with a CamelBak and tube inside -- but it's the right idea. When I was discharged from the military, I fit my entire life in this amazing backpack with room left over for the full CamelBak and hiked up and down the California coast for several days with no problems. The same backpack's still the only piece of luggage I use for travel, for class, for everything. It expands from normal backpack size to HUGE.

TL;DR If I can't pack everything I own into my tiny car in one hour, I have too much stuff.

(Edit: This list isn't everything I own, but it's the things that I figure would be useful to anyone.)

The Leatherman Style PS is what I gotfor carrying in school, and it is supposed to be tsa compliant (as touted on their website here) however I have not tried it with mine.

Also, it is pretty small, but it's pretty much the only one I found without a knife that I knew is worth a damn.

Heres some stuff I found.

For the political

Everyone loves a swiss army knife.

Or a leatherman

Or another leatherman

Gun: A Visual History

I actually own the last book. Its a pretty cool little book to flip through now and again.

If its a Phantom go out at night with a flashlight AND a blacklight and it will glow in the trees when pointing the blacklight. Something like this would work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008133KB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LMZAxb2ERN6XF

This one works great for me. I have it set to remind me if the garage door is left open longer than 15 minutes during the day, or if it is open at all after bedtime. it will auto close at certain times of the night, and when I set the house alarm...

VIVOSUN 48"x24"x60" Mylar Hydroponic Grow Tent with Observation Window and Floor Tray for Indoor Plant Growing 2'x4' https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dx13BbGGT8164

VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series 300W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hz13BbPVVN2TK

This light is good for 2 plants but you’ll eventually want to add a second for your tent. You definitely can’t fill the tent with just this light, but it’ll get you started.

iPower 2-Pack 1/8 Inch 8-Feet Long Adjustable Heavy Duty Rope Clip Hanger, Reinforced Metal Internal Gears,150lb Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018WIOEDA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wA13Bb58ZJ5GD

Century 7 Day Heavy Duty Digital Programmable Timer - Dual Outlet (Indoor) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVF16JG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XA13Bb9NQJDG1

Comfort Zone CZ6C 6-Inch 2-Speed Clip-On Fan (White, 2 Fans) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JLUZSPC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.E13Bb05JK7B1

247Garden 5-Pack 3 Gallon Grow Bags/Aeration Fabric Pots w/Handles (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013JM3JAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VG13Bb7MGJS2R

https://www.oregonsonly.com/samples/

These are great nutrients and basically foolproof. This free sample kit will get you through 4 plants full grows. I love these nutrients and even now use them in a reservoir (which people claim you can’t do but works great).

Dr.meter 0.1pH PH002 High Accuracy pH Meter/pH Pen Tester with ATC LCD 0-14 pH Measurement Range (PH002 pH Meter for Water) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PU0W35K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fI13BbNRES1BK

That will get you started on your first grow or two. I recommend auto blue mystic from nirvana for your first run. They are very low smell while growing so you can get by without a carbon filter. They’re autos so you can leave the light on 24/7, and they finish fast. Also turns out a great finished product.

https://www.nirvanashop.com/marijuana-seeds/815-blue-mystic-autoflower.html

Less than $40 for 5 seeds and very discrete shipping.

When you have a bit more $ you can add on additional items. Eventually you’ll want to upgrade to PFD sun boards or quantum boards, but you’ll probably want to get a fan and filter first:

6" Inline Fan - 395 CFM Exhaust Duct Fan, Built-In Speed Controller, ETL Listed, Pre-Wired 6 FT Grounded Cord - Great Use In Grow Tent With Carbon Filters, Light Fixtures, Intake. Fits 6 Inch Ducts. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L0D0UEQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TM13Bb5170NC1

Activated Charcoal Carbon Filter 6" x 16", Up to 400 CFM, Premium Grow Tent Odor Scrubber, 1.8" Extra Thick Layer of Top Grade Activated Australian Virgin Charcoal-Great for Hydroponics and Growing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0VN4I5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qN13BbEH9AG9W

Maybe you can upgrade to a 2x4 tray with reservoir so you can automate feeding.

If you don’t want autoflowers you can just do 12/12 from seed for faster harvest. https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/blog-how-to-grow-cannabis-from-seed-under-12-12-lighting-n330

But I really recommend doing the auto blue mystic for your first round or two.

Most recipes will probably be fine with an additional 2-4 hours. Crock pot recipes aren't very fussy. But that counts more for beef than chicken, because chicken dries out easier. A couple tips:

For chicken, use thighs instead of breasts. The thighs have more fat and will keep from drying out longer. And yes, chicken can still overcook and become dry while in a sauce. It's just less noticeable.

Beef will probably work great it's a bit more forgiving than chicken.

One other solution many people here do is to buy a timer you plug your crock pot into like this. That way, you can program it to turn on 4 hours after you leave. And especially if you're using frozen dump recipes this is a great solution.

Or I'm sure there's programmable crock pots you can buy to skip the plug timer.

Two things:

One. That light is made for a refugium. A lot of people will say that it's "harsh" or "cold" - that's because it's not really made for humans to look at - it's not a "display light". It'll work just fine for growing plants (it'll work really well, actually), but it will lack a lot of the "warmer" colors that look good to human eyes. Finnex makes a few others that are comparable: Plantet+ 24/7 (adjustable colors/remote/timer), Ray (bright white light), Ray 2 (very powerful white light).

Ultimately the light you choose will depend on a few factors. What kinds of plants will you grow? How deep is the aquarium (more powerful lights are needed for deeper water columns)? Do you mind if the light is "harsh"?

Of those considerations, I'd put the most weight on the tank dimensions and the plant specifications. Trying to push light through 24 inches of water for a carpeting plant? You'll want a Ray 2. Have an 8-inch deep tank that you want to grow some swords in? Don't waste your money on anything fancy.

----

Two. That CO2 kit is a money pit and here's why:

• The regulator is crap and you'll have a VERY hard time dialing it into 2-3 bubbles/second. I know this from experience.
  
• CO2 is most useful when it's on a schedule (in sync with your lights). To do that you need a solenoid regulator that can be turned on/off using an outlet timer. This regulator does not have that.
  
• That also means that every time you turn this on/off, you'll have to dial in your bubble count AGAIN.
  
• Those cartridges are tiny. 20g of CO2 will last you a good two weeks if you're lucky (probably closer to 1 week). The refills are 3-5 bucks each if you go with the Fluval ones. Finding off-brand cartridges is near impossible because of the threadding. They lock you into buying their refill products.
  
  So let's say you spend 25 bucks on the kit plus 15 bucks for some cartridges. That's an upfront of 40 dollars with a 15 dollars per month in perpetuity. That means that one year of this kit will cost you $220.
  
  Instead you could go for this paintball setup for the same price:
  
  
• Regulator - $110
  
• Atomizer - $20
  
• Paintball tank - $21 (probably another $10 to have it filled)
  
• CO2 proof tubing
  
• Check valve - $7
  
• Drop checker kit - $14
  
• Outlet timer - $10
  
• Bubble counter - $13
  
  That build adds up to $205, will be WAY less work in the long run, much more stable, and simply easier to run. Also if you ever get sick of it and want your money back - it'll retain a lot of it's value. You could probably re-sell that whole set for 170-ish used. Also, that tank will last you a good few months before needing to be refilled.
  
  CO2 can really help your tank flourish, but it takes a considerable buy-in. Go all the way or go home. Half-assing it to save money on sub-par equipment will just cause you headaches and a lot more money in the long run. I spent about 250 on my setup two years ago and haven't had to spend a PENNY on it since.
  
  ----
  
  PS: /u/Elhazar, are you really gonna go around using the little 2 in "CO₂" and pretend like it's nothing? Well aren't you fancy!

https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Solenoid-110-VAC-Normally-Closed/dp/B007N0J98E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499072073&sr=8-1&keywords=water+solenoid+110v

https://www.amazon.com/Century-Plug-Mechanical-Timer-Grounded/dp/B00MVFF59S/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1499072056&sr=8-6&keywords=timer

+some hoses / tubes / enclosure for your electronics and a few hours of your time.

you should be able to construct a nice system for 50-100 dollar

Just get the Thrunite TH20 in neutral white:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FCV32SI/

If you find that 250 lumens isn't bright enough for you (keeping in mind that high-end incandescent headlamps put out ~10-50 lumens), come back and ask about getting a 14500 lithium-ion battery and charger.

If that still isn't bright enough for you, know that even 18650 Li-ion headlamps can't sustain more brightness than that for long without getting too hot.

I'm a bit late, but here are some (pretty fuzzy) pictures I got from hunting them a while back with one of those UV Flashlights. They glow a bright greenish color!

On the wall

Three in a container

I'm in north west Phoenix and I don't see them too often in the house, but look around on the walls of your residence at night with a UV light/blacklight - I'm sure you'll find at least one or two of them just hanging out. You can find good flashlights for under 15$ on Amazon

You can find some of those rubber-coated tongs (or ice cube tongs) at the dollar store if you want something to safely relocate them elsewhere.

I got this Escolite for $13 and it's insanely bright. Haven't actually taken it out for a glow round yet, but I have used it for plenty of other glow-in-the-dark applications and it really makes discs shine.

I plan to DIY my own Whitestone Dome glass protector. I'm waiting until I can find a TGSP that:

• Doesn't have the black strips on the top and bottom
  
• Does have the full sensor/camera/speaker area cut out...less likely to get glue on it
  
• Doesn't have glass extending all the way to the edge of the screen
  
• Doesn't have the ugly dot matrix "sensitivity pixel grid" pattern bullshit
  
• I plan to simply peel off the thin strip of adhesive on the edge
  
  This is the glue I'm going to use, it should be enough for 5 tgsp installs:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IOPYLJE/
  
  This is the IR curing light I'm going to use:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008133KB4/
  
  I'm going to end up doing this for 4 devices, 2 x GS8 and 2x GN8. Total cost ~$40 or $10 each.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DJRYIG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apap_4HuPH8htp6ZEX

This is the Hakko.

If you don't mind manual, then the Tenma will also work

ac adaptor

right angle connectors

LED strips

LED strip lights are a great and cheap way to light up a mirror! This is a picture of my current vanity setup: http://imgur.com/HODyWkh

The whole setup should run you under $25 on amazon:

http://smile.amazon.com/Flexible-Lights-Daylight-Non-waterproof-Lighting/dp/B00HSF65MC?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

http://smile.amazon.com/HitLights-Light-Connector-Extension-Single/dp/B00L1MFRY0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00 (click the '10-pk gapless connectors' on that link)

http://smile.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Strip/dp/B00DKSI0S8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

If you're taking your first steps into wiring, then you should get comfortable working with wires and tools. Here is a kit that will introduce you to wiring, soldering, etc.

Along with that, there are a few tools that might be useful to you:

• A small stand with clips and magnifying glass
  
• Solder wick for desoldering
  
• Soldering tip cleaner
  
• Extra supply of solder
  
  And there are videos on YouTube that will teach you how to properly solder a wire to a soldering point. For that Elenco kit, the main goal is to get both the siren and the flashing lights to work, which it will if you wired everything correctly and used the correct resistors. It can be easy to make mistakes while learning to solder for the first time but most mistakes can be fixed, and it's very difficult to cause enough damage to render the board completely unusable.
  
  Also, one note of caution: soldering irons are extremely hot, as the intent is to liquify the solder and attach it to the soldering points.

$10 on Amazon. Best $10 I ever spent for my Gitd pops.

Escolite UV Flashlight Black Light, 51 LED 395 nM Ultraviolet Blacklight Detector for Dog Urine, Pet Stains and Bed Bug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008133KB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fzyRAb2QJAX50

Home inspection brought to you by:
Escolite UV Flashlight Black Light, 51 LED 395 nM Ultraviolet Blacklight Detector for Dog Urine, Pet Stains and Bed Bug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008133KB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3IbXzbAY1ATFC

I had 3 fistulas: 1 low, 2 high. They did a fistulotomyb the low one and put draining setons in the 2 high ones. That was 5 months ago.

I bathe twice per day, each time for minimum 30 minutes but often for 90-120 minutes per bath. I read books, check reddit on my phone, watch videos, etc. I'm trying to jerry-rig some setup where I'd feel secure having my laptop in there so I could work during the day. It's hard to overstate how good a hot soak feels.

I also have a bidet on my toilet and a travel bidet which I take with me whenever I'm not home. I use panty liners to deal with drainage and change those 3-4 times per day.

I'm so grateful to have flexibility with my job where I can work from home on days I don't feel well. This experience would be much worse if I had limitations on my hygiene.

Other than the fistulas and 5-6 watery bowel movements per day I'm not overly symptomatic (subject to diet) so I'm grateful for that.

Started remicade and methotrexate a month ago. GI & colorectal surgeon want to give it 9-12 months and see if the fistulas are closing up.

Bidet links:

Base $35 model, cold water only https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RHSJO

Deluxe $60 model, hot and cold water https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RX2UI

Travel Bidet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CSDKSQ

You can get portable, hand held bidets on line too, though the maximum pressure of the water stream is less, like this

The Tenma 21-8240 is better and easier to use than that one.

https://www.amazon.com/Tenma-21-8240-Vacuum-Desoldering-Iron/dp/B008DJRYIG/

sauce

Container: Rubbermaid 20 gal Brute Bin

Lights: Kingbrite 60 W Quantum Board (if you want dimmable, ask for a dimmable driver like the HLG-60H-36B and a potentiometer)

Screws: You'll need lots of nuts, long screws, washers, and spacers to mount the board and PSU. First put the board on the lid and mark where to drill, then drill holes. Then put the power supply on the outside in the middle, mark and drill those hoses. Mount power supply and then flip lid over and mount the light, using long screws and nuts to hold it in place (the light should NOT touch the lid but be 1-2 inches from it, held in place by nuts). Drill small hole for power line, then connect. Finally, drill 3 inch hole for exhaust beside the light. You'll also need long screws with nuts to keep the fan and shrouds together. Be sure to use spaces anywhere the screw heads or nuts are touching the lid or the lights. For light spacers, I used rubber spaces between the nuts.

Cooling shrouds: 120mm Fan Duct Cooling Shroud to 4 Inch Vent Hose

90 degree 4 inch elbow for exhaust: 4 in. 90° Round Adjustable Elbow

4" to 3" reducer for exhaust: 4 in. to 3 in. Round Reducer

2x regular JB Weld to mount the reducer and 3 inch "trunk"

Fan: Delta AFB1212SHE-PWM 120mm x 38mm 4pin PWM+Tac Sensor Extreme Hi-speed 3700 RPM 151 CFM

Fan controller: Noctua NA-FC1 4-pin PWM Fan Controller

Fan power supply: LE Power Adapter, UL Listed, 3A, 120V AC to 12V DC Transformer, 36W Power Supply

Fan power supply adapter: CRJ Female DC Power Supply Plug to 12V Molex Power Adapter Cable

Fan molex adapter: Coolerguys Mini 3-4 pin Fan Adapter (Single)

2x ABS fan elbow (for "snout" intake): 3 in. ABS DWV 90-Degree Hub x Hub Long-Turn Elbow

Air filter for intake: 16.25 in. x 12.5 in. x 0.19 in. - 16.3 in. x .2 in. x 12.5 in. - CF300 Carbon Filter

Air filter (not pictured): VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter Odor Control with Australia Virgin Charcoal for Inline Fan

Fan hose (not pictured): iPower GLDUCT4X8C 4 inch 8 feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Foil

Watering device (not pictured): Janolia Automatic Irrigation Kit, Self Watering System, with Electronic Water Timer

Camera (not pictured): Wyze Cam 1080p HD Indoor Wireless Smart Home Camera with Night Vision (glue steel piece for magnetic base onto the upper side of the bin)

Notes: This design is very safe because it keeps all electronic components high in the bin. At the same time, using a battery powered watering system keeps you from requiring to ever open it. The lamp runs very cool. The PWM fan controller works well and keeping the air moving without using a lot of power (do NOT buy a cheap voltage modulator, I did first and it doesn't work nearly as well as the PWM controller). The Wyze cam is super cheap and lets you keep an eye on everything or make timelapses. Have fun growing your tomatoes!

I'm still pretty new to this myself, but like you I have some electronics experience in the past. I just got this Weller 40w iron station with a desolder braid/sucker and a solder tip cleaner. Oh and a more precise tip for the solder iron

I'm really happy with it all so far, and couln't imagine needing more for a while. A heat gun would be nice for de-soldering and reflowing premade boards (like modding Boss pedals), but that can also be done with a regular solder iron as far as I know. You can get the above for about $60 total, so it's a nice way to get your feet wet without a huge investment. Then you gotta add on components/enclosures/pots/switches etc. Maybe get a helping hands and/or circuit holder if you need

Oh and get a good multimeter. I went a step up from the $20 ones and got this one which I'm also really happy with.

Might be worth getting a solder wick for when you inevitably screw up. Solder vacuum isn't a terrible idea either. I have both, I use them for different things. A third hand is also useful. I find myself using the glass more than the arms but it's all useful. If the iron you buy doesn't come with one a brass ball is great for keeping your tip clean without cooling it off like a sponge will. Micro-cutter is useful, not sure if angled or straight is better, up to you I guess. Last but not least a pair of angled tweezers. You can get those anywhere.

These are all the things I have within arm's reach when I'm doing a project. Have fun!

You do have a problem...

It doesn't appear you have a case for them ;D

(I use these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HJ9514?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 but you have bigger ships than I)

Light My Fire Titanium Spork. Excellent reviews, and it's made of frikin' titanium.

EDIT: Weighs only 17 grams, and costs only $11. Pretty impressive.

I'm going to disagree strongly with anyone advising you to use ANY type of rod on this knife. This knife is is very hard. Well, the cutting edge is, the cladding isn't. The core steel is advertised as 63-64 hrc. That's hard enough to chip if you use any type or rod on it.

There are generally 2 types of honing rods. Abrasive and non-abrasive. Non-abrasive rods are meant to be used on softer steels like those found in European knives. The edge can be bent out of line by use and a honing steel rod can be used to straighten it back into line between sharpenings on a stone.

Abrasive rods are a bad idea on this knife (and all knives in general except serrated edges in my opinion) because of their hardness and shape. In order to keep the overall shape of the cutting edge you need a flatter abrasive surface (like a stone) or you could end up with a "hollow" spot in the edge profile. I apologise that i don'e have a picture to illustrate but imagine if you cut something and there is a place on the edge that can't contact the cutting board because it has been ground away too much.

For sharpening get a stone. I'd start with this one https://www.amazon.com/Kuromaku-Ceramic-Whetstone-Medium-Grit/dp/B001TPFT0G

Beautiful knife. Lucky husband. Enjoy

No, its most likely trash. You'll be much better off with a single shapton pro 1000.

https://www.amazon.com/Kuromaku-Ceramic-Whetstone-Medium-Grit/dp/B001TPFT0G

copy and paste from another post:

https://www.youtube.com/user/JKnifeImports

There is a knife sharpening playlist. I recommend watching the theory videos before the practice/demo ones.

You re most likely looking for double bevel sharpening, so skip the single bevel ones for now, unless youre interested.

I usually carry the Leatherman Style PS. It's pretty small though, but has pliers, scissors, flathead screwdriver/file, and tweezers. Plus the clip on it can be used as a bottle opener.

The Leatherman Style PS is travel friendly and has pretty much everything the dime has except for the blade.

1 (carried) Keychain

2 (on keychain) House key, Car key, Mailbox key, Office key

3 (on keychain) Leatherman Style PS

4 (on keychain) Streamlight Keymate

5 (on keychain) Data Traveler 16gb

6 (front right pocket) Kershaw Scallion

7 (front left pocket) Ronson Jetlite

8 (back right pocket) Chums Bifold

9 (in wallet) Tool Logic Survival Card

10 (in wallet) True Utility Pen

11 (in wallet) Forever Stamps

12 (left wrist) Timex Expedition Watch

13 (back left pocket) iPhone 4 with Mirrored cover

14 (face or neck) Gucci Glasses

15 (carried) Zojirushi insulated water bottle

Leatherman 831488 Style PS Multitool claims to be "TSA-Compliant"

Waterproof Flashdrive

Couldn't find any juice but had the headlamp for when I did early morning drone shots and visiting Herculaneum (looked deeper into caves). I already had it an its small so I threw it in. No knife, TSA approved multi-tool which we used a couple of times mostly for scissors. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058RX9NU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
Weird Sandals?? Pretty normal for me and used this 95% of the time to walk/hike. Both straps on the back broke pulling the sandals on so Keen gave me credit and buying these guys http://www.keenfootwear.com/p/W-VERSAGO.html

As far as I know there's no smart bulb that hits anywhere near 1500 lumens. I'd recommend keeping her current bulbs (or picking up some 1500 lm/5000k LED bulbs) and getting smart switches/dimmers.

So you would realistically do smart switches instead of having smart bulbs. The only reason I would see to use smart bulbs is because you don't own the property or because you want the ability to change colors of a color lightbulb.

> Do smart switches always keep the smart bulbs powered?

It depends on what you mean by smart switches. You would realistically just use a smart switch like this. The light switch itself would always have power no matter if you turn the light on or off (unless you kill the breaker), so you could control it no matter the state of the light.

Your best bet if you want to continue using the smart bulbs, and not smart switches, is by buying the Philips Hue Dimmer switches. You would still need the power for the light to be on (meaning don't touch it/block it off if needed). They would still be at the mercy of people using the light switch itself.

But, unless you rent or need color control, it doesn't make sense to keep dropping money on this path.

Good morning /u/EFaden and congrats on the new house!

I'm not sure what HUB you have but there are a couple options if you want to keep the standard in-wall switch, but use scenes to automate things.

Disclaimer: I'm associated with Inovelli, so please keep that in mind. However, I'll lay out all the options that I know of since the scene switches are a passion of mine since they can do so much

On that note, there's a few brands that I'm aware of that have the scene functionality built into a normal in-wall switch and they are: GE, ZWP, HomeSeer, and ourselves.

GE, I believe has a double tap feature in their new Z-Wave Plus switches, but I just have their old ones in my house (which have been great) so I can't confirm, but I've seen posts about it.

HomeSeer was actually one of the first, if not the first companies to come out with this and I personally have one of their switches in my house as well and it's been rock solid. You can add up to I believe 10 scenes to it by single/double/triple/4x/5x tapping the switch (top and bottom). There's a specific device handler for it if you're on SmartThings.

ZWP, I don't really know much about, I just saw they had a scene switch too.

As for Inovelli, we're really proud of the work our guys put into the firmware this time and I'll highlight some of the features below:

• Ability to add 10-12 scenes (10 for Dimmer and 12 for On/Off) based on taps or holds
  
  
• Ability to disable the internal relay - this is good for people who use smart bulbs on their loads so that now when the switch is used, rather than cutting power to the smart bulb, the switch will instead send a scene command to the HUB to turn the light on (or if you have a Z-Wave bulb, it can be directly associated with the bulb and there will be no need for a command to be sent to the HUB). I personally use this feature in my daughter's room bc she has a Hue light setup on it and depending on the number of taps, the bulb will turn a different color
  
  
• For dimmers, you can now set the default brightness based on the time of day. An example would be at night time if you don't want to blind yourself in the bathroom, you can set it so that the dimmer will only dim to 10% between the hours of 10pm and 6am. This can be set to happen locally (manual pressing) or remotely
  
  
• Also for Dimmers, you can change the speed at which the switch turns on. Some people like a slow dim, some people like a fast dim, while others like an, "instant on" effect to mimic an On/Off switch
  
  
• Change the minimum dimming level - this is great for if you have an LED bulb that starts flickering at the low setting
  
  
• Finally, you do not have to have an auxiliary switch in a 3-Way setting. Simply wire this up to your existing, "dumb" switch and it will work as a normal 3-Way switch
  
  As I said above, not sure what HUB you have, but we wrote device handlers for SmartThings and Drivers for Hubitat, but if you don't have those, the settings above can all be done via parameters (except for the dimming based on time of day, let me check with our VP of Tech)
  
  Anyway, I hope that helped a bit. You can't go wrong with any of those brands. They're all unique in their own way and if you're thinking about Z-Wave, then they are some very reputable brands.
  
  Have a great day and if you have any questions, feel free to reach out!
  
  Eric
  
  Founder | Inovelli
  
  

  
  <br />
  Links:<br />
  <br />
  GE: <br />
  <br />

• On/Off https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R
  
• Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUCZA1C
  
  HomeSeer: (they have quite a few, so just type in, "HomeSeer Z-Wave Plus Switch" and they should all come up. I'm going to put the couple I know work with ST)
  
  
• On/Off https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DFSAAJ4
  
• Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DFRWZNE
  
  ZWP:
  
  
• Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0725SZMTG
  
  Inovelli
  
  
• On/Off https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N235ROS
  
  
• Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAUCQ18

I started out with this one.

ANBES Soldering Iron Kit Electronics, 60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Tool, 5pcs Soldering Tips, Desoldering Pump, Soldering Iron Stand, Tweezers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZ31W3M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BFgFDbZKQ2TAX

The ferrule to tighten down the tips I accidentally screwed sideways and stripped the threads. So I can't use it anymore.

I upgraded to this and like it a lot. The only thing that stinks is you would have to buy a separate solder sucker.

Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FHgFDbX2G3J1V

I have this one now and I really like it a lot. I also use 60/40 solder. I hear people rant and rave about 63/37. Either way.

Some thoughts on the IPS:

• Install:
  
  • Toughest part is attaching the ribbon cable back to the AGS board. I found it was shorter than the stock ribbon cable.
    
  • Don't be scared to solder. Bought a $15 soldering iron off Amazon and practiced a bit on other stuff. Very easy to solder the wire to the board for brightness control, just need to be precise.
    
  • I bought my case from Retro Modding and chose to do the case modification myself with my dremel tool. Easy as well.
    
• IPS:
  
  • At first it was weird not having the pixelated look of the AGS-101 but, after seeing the two next to each other, I'm starting to love the pixel density of the IPS.
    
  • If you solder, you'll have 6 brightness options. Levels 1 and 3 are comparable to the AGS-101 and its two brightness options. This means the IPS is quite brighter at its highest setting, but also darker for sessions at night with no lights on. Great versatility.
    
  • I have experienced zero screen tearing as I received the new ribbon cable. That should not be a concern anymore.
    
    Overall, I think this really is the game changer everyone has been waiting for. I love my two AGS-101's but, with the prices rising and the availability of this kit, it's a no brainer. Again, I bought this cheap soldering iron and practiced a few times; that's really how easy the install is if you have steady hands. I cannot speak for this kit without the brightness options activated.
    
    Hope this helps!

Cooler master vertical gpu mount. It works well but watch the clearances on your memory.

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Accessory-MasterBox-MasterCase/dp/B071P862G1/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=cooler+master+vertical+gpu+mount&qid=1566572791&s=gateway&sprefix=cooler+master+vert&sr=8-1

Cooler Master Accessory: Fits MasterBox, MasterCase, Maker, H500P Series Vertical Display VGA Holder Kit w/ Riser Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071P862G1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QFuPBb1PW0FV6

This is what you need. Y’all also have to cut the pci brackets on the back of the case of to fit the vertical gpu mount.

Coolermaster Vertical GPU mount and a ribbon cable. Amazon sells a combo. Cost about 35quid in the UK. Really easy mod =)

Here's a link Cooler Master MasterAccessory Vertical Graphics Card Holder Kit https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B071P862G1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_tpvueziJW2XSg

Edit: oh dam it's gone up by 11quid =(

Thanks! Cooler Master GPU bracket. Pccooler Moonlight fans.

I used this Cooler master vertical graphics card mount extension. Be warned that it will require a dremel to remove some of the metal to make it fit.

I bought the Linear GoControl Z-wave controller. It's compatible with most garage door openers, you just hook up a couple of wires into the garage door opener.

I have it connected to SmartThings, it works like a charm.

This device is currently natively supported in SmartThings and will both control your garage door and let you know if it's open/closed: http://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU

GoControl/Linear edge
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00M75TEIU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502321646&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=go+control+zwave&dpPl=1&dpID=41mR-vfm7WL&ref=plSrch

This works with some, but all, garage door openers. And when it works it's extremely way to use and install. I use mine with Smart things hub.

This is the light I got:

Roleadro Upgrade and Newly Developed LED Grow Light Full Spectrum 2nd Generation Series 300w Plants Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HI3AFYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TtlOzbXWSYYMW


I also just picked up a cheap $9 timer on amazon. Works like a champ. I keep mine on from 9:30am to 9:30pm

Edit: here is the timer

Century 24 Hour Plug-in Mechanical Timer Grounded https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVFF59S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AvlOzbW25N6CN

If you have amazon, order one of the timers like this one. I have one for my tank, and it's great! The lighting stays consistent and is one less thing to think about. I regularly am gone on the weekends without feeding, and my fish are all plenty fed. If you're worried, just feed them a bit more than usual on the last day you're there. I would definitely drop a sheet over the tank to keep the dust out.

I've been using this one for over a year without any issues - GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener Remote Controller, Small, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3JsHAbS1DN09R

You have a lot of options. Easiest would probably go with a hub like a Samsung SmartThings hub and get zwave door/window sensors.
For the garage door you could use the GoControl outfit kit https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU

The fireplace gets a bit tricky depending on how the control is. Most newer homes with gas logs are on a milivolt system, meaning the switch on the wall that opens the gas valve doesnt actually have power, its just a signal wire. For this case you need to get power to that switch location which could be as easy as tapping into the lines of an adjacent switch. You need a Zwave dry contact swtich. https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI

The best option, in my opinion, is one of these and an appropriate Z-Wave controller. Everything else will handcuff you to one specific cloud platform and limit your integration options.

I use the model that you’re talking about (GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener Remote Controller, Small, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M75TEIU/) and it works great, and a shout-out to their support team for owning up to a known defect in the first version that I got where it would beep and do everything as expected, but not actually open the garage. So, technically, I’d say 5 stars, though I’d have to knock it down to 4 stars only for the trouble of replacing the lemon unit with a working one.

Every now and then, the replacement unit does exhibit this problem of beeping and not doing anything when I ask it to, but that’s so few and far between, and works if I go after it for a second time, that I’d still recommend this to you.

You can also try this. I have been looking at it, but have not used it.
http://www.amazon.com/Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Garage-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=pd_sim_hi_52?ie=UTF8&refRID=0PD4QQWQ1F30G2K0616A

I spent some time researching this, and ended up getting a z-wave garage door opener off Amazon (this one). It works well, communicates over Z-wave and reaches through several walls to my Z-Wave light switches to join the Z-Wave mesh my SmartThings hub communicates with - With that said, I found out rather quickly afterward that Amazon purposely prevents Alexa from working with any type of smart door/locking mechanism, which made me sadface. I could probably still get it to work through Smart Things custom scripting editor, but honestly I'm fine just doing it through the ST app.

I have the GoControl Z-Wave Controller and it works great with Smartthings.

I would get the hub earlier on since you want to monitor your washer/dryer, and if you have the hub you can buy devices that work with your hub so you can control everything from one spot.

The easiest solution for monitoring your washer/dryer are going to be z-wave devices. For the dryer, if it's electric, a sensor to detect vibration, or if it's gas, you can maybe get away with an outlet that detects current. For the washing machine, usually an outlet that detects current can work for you. It can be a bit tricky to get going though.

Skip the wemo plug and go with a z-wave plug. Any reason for the Lutron dimmers in specific?

For the bathroom fan, I use a z-wave smart switch. I don't have it tied to a humidity sensor, but I have it set (controlled by my hub) to turn off after 25 minutes, that way I don't have to worry about turning it off when I'm in a rush to leave for work. If I wanted to have it triggered by humidity levels or motion, or whatever all I need to do is add another z-wave device and I can make it happen.

The RainMachine seems cool, but pricey for an irrigation controller, no? I use the Orbit B-Hyve and it works great. I rarely ever interface with it honestly. I pull out my phone and run the zones occasionally to check that I don't have any broken heads, otherwise it just runs. It can be completely controlled from your phone, and can be controlled directly from the device as well. The other day I adjusted my schedule a little bit and increased the runtime on a few zones. Is your irrigation controller inside? If not, with the RainMachine you will also need to buy an enclosure to keep it weatherproof, whereas the B-Hyve is built into a weatherproof enclosure.

For garage door automation, there is a great z-wave option on the market. GD00Z-4 that will integrate into whatever hub you get.

Now as far as hubs go, I wouldn't go Wink personally. SmartThings is a bit annoying but it is the most used system on the market and there are some perks to that. You'll see recommendations for running Home Assistant, and that's a solution that requires some tinkering. HomeSeer is great, and if I started over completely I probably would have gone this route, but I have a bunch of zigbee devices, and the recommended way for using Zigbee with HomeSeer is to use another hub (Lightify Hub), and I don't really care for that solution. I'm using Hubitat now, it's an early product and I've had my frustrations with it but I like to tinker so it works for me.

Here's a comment I wrote the other day for someone else.

Edit: Set-and-forget with an inexpensive timer for your lights; here's my favorite.

So the wine fridge came with the house. Free.

Humidifier: $40
Crane Filter-Free Droplet, Cool Mist Humidifier, Blue and White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O1CQ9OO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FEJ1CbDZ3G50M

Fan: $17
AC Infinity AXIAL 8025, Muffin Fan, 120V AC 80mm x 25mm High Speed, for DIY Cooling Ventilation Exhaust Projects https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OXSFBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HGJ1CbDYVZV8J

Fan speed controller: $14
AC Infinity, Fan Speed Controller for 100 to 125V AC Axial Muffin Cooling Fans, Single Connector, for DIY Cooling Ventilation Exhaust Projects https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00809BQZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7HJ1Cb633YCRV

Timer: $13
Century 7 Day Heavy Duty Digital Programmable Timer - Dual Outlet (Indoor) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVF16JG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XIJ1CbQQD38YE
(I'm going to upgrade to a wemo smart plug here, at some point)

Exit vent: $10
Plastic Air Vent Grille Cover 3 Flaps Wall Duct Ventilation Grill With Net Plastic Louvre Air Vent Grille with Flyscreen Cover(1515CM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079N83QSG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GPJ1Cb3KV0CYM
(Can get for half this price at Home Depot)

Controller: $175 + shipping (day... $15)
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37&products_id=642

Miscellaneous: $65

Total: $350 (ish)

Acquiring a suitable fridge will certainly add here. I got lucky and we had the wine cooler sitting around for years. It was literally in our house when we moved in.

Hope this helps!

https://www.dripirrigation.com/d071

https://www.dripirrigation.com/50-foot-1-8-inch-micro-tubing-with-187-od

https://www.dripirrigation.com/3-4-mnpt-x-12-pvc-riser

https://www.dripirrigation.com/sf005 (get 12 of these)

https://www.dripirrigation.com/s047 (get 24 of these)

https://www.dripirrigation.com/d075 (get 12 of these)

Add an water pump w/ a digital timer

https://www.amazon.com/Century-Digital-Programmable-Packaging-Security/dp/B00MVF16JG/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=digital+timer+electric&qid=1572359867&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.com/EcoPlus-Adjustable-Water-Pump-172/dp/B00FH9L3QE/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=eco+pump&qid=1572360378&refinements=p_89%3AEcoPlus&rnid=2528832011&sr=8-4

Don’t mind at all! I’ll just post the whole setup below:

• Using standard potting soil from one of the local big box stores with a little peat moss spread in.
  
  Using these T5s: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AKKUBDQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
  
  Using these LEDs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074Y32PFZ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
  
  Using this outlet timer for 12 hours on/off: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVF16JG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
  
  Using these for gnat control (it was pretty bad at the beginning): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O2KYORO?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

For your lighting, getting a digital timer will make your life so much easier. I have Century 7 brand from Amazon, only $13. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MVF16JG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495566943&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=light+timer+century&dpPl=1&dpID=41Qwe9JjZ5L&ref=plSrch
It has two outlets so one for heat and one for UVB. I have 2 basking lights + UVB so I plugged a power strip into the timer and now I can plug in more stuff! It'll turn your lights on and off for you every day so you don't have to worry about forgetting and won't have to wake up early to turn lights on. My lights are on at 7:30am and off at 9:30pm.

Here is a picture of my set up. Lights are about a foot away from the plants (could probably be close but they do just fine) and are on for 16 hours a day via this timer! :)

DETAILS ON SET UP

Light: Roleadro 300W LED light

Fan and filter: ipower 4" inline fan with carbon filter (my roomates are worried about the smell

Tent: Millard 30" x 18" x 36" tent

Odds and ends: A digital timer to schedule lights

A fan speed controller

3-gallon smart pots

A humidity and temp sensor

Plus a small clip on fan.

GROW DETAILS

I have three different strains, Northern Lights, Pre-99 big bud, and pure power plant, and then an unknown seed(which I planted about two weeks ago as the previous unknown seed turned out male, see previous post [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/microgrowery/comments/5qo1yo/early_sign_of_balls_details_in_comments/0. One in each 3-gallon smart pot. For the first two weeks of growing I had an 18/6 light schedule, and then switched to 12/12. (I'm essentially doing 12/12 from as early as the plant could respond to the change in light schedule). Over the past 15 days I watered twice with tiger bloom nutes.

I definitely made the mistake of not listening to your advice when I originally posted and am trying to grow 3 plants in a 1.5X2.5X3 foot tent...It is getting crowded, I should've listened and stuck with one, maybe two plants. Other than that I haven't had any problem that I have noticed other then a few spots of damage on leaves occasionally but no pests or wilting. I'm sure there are things I could've done better though. Thank you for all your help, I can't wait to get to harvest.

Sure! I used these lights from amazon. I think they are supposed to be for garages but they met the specs I was looking for (CCT: 6500k and 2100+ lumens per square foot per light) and were relatively inexpensive. I have 2 on each shelf connected to eachother by cords that are included in the pack. The pack also comes metal snaps that screw in, but I opted to attach using large command picture hanging strips. I kept the metal brackets just in case the command strips didnt work but so far they have been working great and I dont have to put as many holes in the hutch. Plus I have run the lights for 8 hours straight and can still touch the aluminum housing. I would say after that amount of time its like touching one of those hand warmer packs right when they start. Its kind of hard to see from the pictures but I did have to drill small 5/8th inch holes so the lights could connect as a continuous unit. This was honestly just for me because I am forgetful and have them hooked up to this timer. I also have some mini fans that I would like to put in so I can keep the doors shut... but I havent quite figured that out yet haha

Amazon has one here for $10!

Edit:Formatting/changed link to a better quality, grounded timer.

I'd go low tech with this.

Get a plug in appliance control module. Something like this (but whichever one will work with your system; if you have no smart hub get a mechanical timer like this one).

Wire the 24vac transformer that feeds your doorbell in through it.

Result- doorbell does nothing for the hours you specify, for under $50.

Alternatively, get a double pole relay and a small interval timer. During the day, pushing the doorbell rings the chime. During the night, pushing the doorbell opens an electronic valve that feeds a sprinkler head pointed at your front door for several seconds. If drunk college students are ringing your doorbell at night, they will quickly learn not to.

work smarter, not harder

A cheap mechanical timer can be configured for an endless 15 min on/45 min off.

I don't have super helpful advice as I don't have the space for a large collection. I use my lights year around, tho I truck my plants outside as much as possible during the summer.

I have these bulbs.

And I just pop one into a desk lamp, which is plugged into this automatic timer.

The timer does have a slight learning curve to it, but it's so nice to have something that does all the work of turning my light off and on.

The bulbs are great and cheap. I usually rotate my plants closer and further away every other day or so. I find if I leave them directly under it (about 5-6 inches away) for too many days, they will skip right thru pretty stress to ugly stress. In the dark depths of winter, I might pull out my red and blue light gooseneck as a supplement to make me feel better, but I really don't think I'll need it, and that usually has to be within 2-3 inches tops to be any good.

a cheap hps kit is a good start. Can grow plants through all stages. Just need a decent sized space like 6' tall, 4 x 4

want to spend more / better quality? get a cmh kit.

want to diy? build a LED COB kit

looking for more shelf compatible that are good for seedlings? get LED shoplights at your local lowes / depot

yeah you will want a timer. they are cheap / normal timers u see for like christmas lights

I have this 4 foot T5 with a stand, this shelf on top of a side table, this 2 foot T5 hooked to the bottom shelf with paper clips and key rings (lol), daisy-chained to this other 2 foot T5 hooked to the top shelf the same way. They are all run on two of these timers which are on ~10 hrs/day.

I have two of these plant racks from Lowe's in front of my south and east facing windows, I jimmied out the bottom shelf and sort of rested it on my windowsill and the edge of the stand (lol again). It's all very MacGuyvered.

Honestly, you are probably better off with a simple solder kit and a kitchen sponge.

Then either solder outside, or under the vent of your kitchen stove.

What the hell that's way too expensive for a soldering iron. You can get a good one for like 10-20 dollars. Here's the top amazon result to get you started: Full Set Vastar 60w 110v Soldering Iron Kit - Adjustable Temperature, 5pcs Different Tips, Desoldering Pump, Stand, anti-static Tweezers and Additional Solder Tube for Variously Repaired Usage https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01712N5C4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-13Yxb3PCAPT6

The battery is much more than required, but you'll need a 5v line and not 9v. What kind of stick is this supposed to go into? USB provides +5v.

I know you said "if I don't have to", but you should really learn how to solder. It's not hard to do it to an acceptable level, and it opens up an entire new world of projects you can do. This kit is very inexpensive and has a decent reputation. Youtube is the only other thing you'd need. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01712N5C4/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_pHn4CbPF64AF7

There is a pretty basic soldering kit on amazon that I have been using for the last few months and it has been amazing! Ill link it to you below.

https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Full-110V-Soldering-Iron/dp/B01712N5C4

It is, but you'd be way better off if you soldered.
Permanent connections, no way a wire will come loose.

You really only need a basic iron, solder and heat shrink.
Hell, this is all you need. https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Full-110V-Soldering-Iron/dp/B01712N5C4/
https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-Sleeve-Shrink-Tubing-240Pcs/dp/B01461R89O

If you wanted, you can get a set of helping hands too and make your life really easy.
https://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Magnifying-Glass/dp/B000RB38X8

Soldering is very easy when you're just splicing wires. Not a ton of skill required. Get a roll of stranded wire and practice a bit.

When it's time to do the harness, cut away the excess, so you don't have a ton of wiring shoved behind the dash, slip a piece of heat shrink over one of the wires first and then do a lineman's splice, solder that connection and then shrink the tube over the bare connection.

I bought this cheap kit off Amazon and used it to desolder and then solder at least 200 switches.

It works quite well and you can adjust the temperature which is important.

The solder sucker included also works well enough, but is prone to clog up so I would empty it once in awhile and make sure that the tube isn't clogged full of dry solder.

You should be able to clean off the pads, re-tin them, and re-solder new wires to them.

 

You'll need a few tools:

• A small brass wire brush to clean the gunk off of the pads, something like these: Mini Wire Brush Set
  
• Some desoldering wick - a thin copper braid, like this: Desoldering Wick
  
• Rosin Paste Flux for electronics: Rosin Paste Flux
  
• Some 60% Lead/40% Tin Rosin Core Solder, .062" diameter: 60/40 Rosin Core Solder
  
• A soldering iron. I assume you have one, but if not you can't go too badly wrong with something like this: Vastar 60W Soldering Kit
  
   
  
  Clean and tin the soldering iron tip:
  
  

1. Take some paper towels, fold them up into a square and get it wet with water. You'll use the wet paper towel to wipe off the hot tip between uses.
   
2. Use the rosin core solder and apply some to the soldering iron tip.
   
3. Wipe off any excess on the paper towel.
   
   
    
   
   Remove the solder from the pads on the heat bed:
   
    
   
   
4. Clean the gunk off of the solder pads with the brass brush - the brass bristles should clean off the surface without damaging it, whereas steel bristles may cut into the surface a bit much.
   
5. Unwind a few inches of the desoldering wick (copper braid), and dip the end into the rosin paste flux - you don't need a lot. The rosin helps the solder to flow and keeps impurities out.
   
6. Put the desodering wick on top of the solder on the pad, and then press the tip of the soldering iron on top of the wick until it heats up. For an adjustable soldering iron, 300F is about right - you want the solder to melt within 5 seconds or less, ideally.
   
7. The solder will melt, and get sucked up into the wick. Remove it from the pad while the solder's still hot
   
8. You should be left with a bright shiny tinned solder pad.
   
    
   
   Add some solder to the pads - you'll want a little bit of solder to cover the whole pad, with enough to make a small bump.
   
   
9. Take the solder, and touch it down flat on the pad.
   
10. Place the soldering iron tip on top to melt it. Feed a little more solder in while it's hot, if needed.
    
     
    
    Tin the wires:
    
    
11. Cut off the ends of the wire, and strip off the end of the insulation by about 1/4"-3/8".
    
12. Twist the end of the wire so that it's tight, and straight.
    
13. Cut off a small piece of the solder (~1/2"), and wrap it around the wire
    
14. Dip the end of the wire into the rosin flux - you don't need a lot.
    
15. Touch the soldering iron tip to the solder and the wire, and coat the wire back and forth until the solder gets sucked into the wire.
    
16. It should have enough solder so that it gets absorbed and you can still see the outline of the wires.
    
     
    
    Attach the tinned wires to the tinned solder pads on the heat bed:
    
    
17. Dip the tinned wire into the flux paste again - a little goes a long way.
    
18. Place the tinned wire down on top of the tinned solder pad.
    
19. Press the soldering iron tip on top of the wire, and heat it until the solder melts on both the wire and the pad.
    
20. There should be just enough solder so that the wire is attached to the pad, but isn't buried in solder. If in doubt, add a little more.
    
21. Hold the wire in place, and remove the soldering iron tip. It should cool in a few seconds, locking the wire in place.
    
    
     
    
    Also: You can use some isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) to clean up the excess rosin paste - it can get sticky.
    
    
     
    
    Hope this helps!

YouTube videos, practicing on something that doesn't really matter too much, looking at a photo of a part. There are a couple arduino kits that require soldering but it's really easy, the Sunfounder starter kit is one I learned from. (It's 99% arduino stuff but there's a easy to solder part)

You really only need a soldering iron, solder, something to hold the iron (if you're crafty with a coat hangar you could make one yourself) and a sponge. A brass sponge is better because it's dry. You may want to get a desoldering pump if you want to remove solder. I got the bestseller kit on Amazon and I've been really happy with it.


Do NOT touch anything metal on the soldering iron when it's on. Burnt the shit out of my hand.

The power leads, assuming you mean from the battery, do take a bit more but that seems like way too long.

if you don't, you need something with adjustable temp...
I've reached the end of the life of the tip for this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01712N5C4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But i'm just going to try and find a compatible tip and keep using it, the iron works "well enough"... Obviously the $100 stations are going to be better.

The real secrets are

• Get tip tinner or w/e it's called. Absolute, 100%, required. I thought my tip was broken or something because it'd oxydize in about 2 seconds after cleaning with a sponge... Yea stick it in this and clean it on the next tip, and it'd stay shiny and nice for minutes... big improvement over wiping on a sponge every 5 seconds
  
• Use the gentle brass cleaning instead of or in addition to a sponge. It does wear the tip down, especially with these cheapo tips, but between this and the tinner i would clean my tip once or twice per solder instead of MULTIPLE times PER solder.
  
  Those two things, + use 350 - 400 C, and soldering is almost fun now!

this. the man makes the iron, not the other way around, although a good tip does help lol. hell the iron i use now is a cheap one as i don't have the room at my desk for a real solder station. i would recommend the iron to anyone starting out looking for one to learn with or use for stuff. and like you said use leaded(rosin core) solder, lead free solder is trash. little tip if using tape to hold the wire, try not to get it too close to the end of the wire or it can melt.

Yeah, an 'ok' soldering iron could cost you around 15 bucks. I used this one for my whitefox.

Which lights are you looking at?

This or This are excellent starting points for a headlamp, have awesome run times and the batteries are rechargeable (although, not when the light is running).

If you go with either of those, get the neutral white version, not cool white.

You're a credit to flashlight nerds everywhere! Cheers!
https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-TH20-Neutral-White/dp/B01FCV32SI/?tag=parametrek-20

I've had my eye on the Thrunite TH20 for a while! If I win, I'll be sure to weight it for you!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FCV32SI/ref=twister_B01FCY03J6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for the giveaway!
ThruNite TH20 NW

Would like the Thrunite TH20 for car use! Thanks for doing this.

http://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-TH20-Neutral-White/dp/B01FCV32SI/

The ThruNite TH20 (neutral white) is right in your range, but I think something with an optic/frosted lens would be better suited for working on cars. So...

It's a bit over your stated $30, but I think the Skillhunt H15 (neutral white) fits the bill. The TIR optic should spread the beam nicely and work very well for working on cars. There is a group buy thread over on BLF that might knock down the price some as well.

Both of these are AA/14500. If you'd be willing to go with a 18650, you could get something with more output/runtime, but that'd be up to you.

The signal has always seemed a bit gimmicky to me - I think you'd be better off sharpening the knife before you head out, and getting something like a wave or a rebar along with a larger dedicated fire starter. If you need to hammer in a tent peg, find a rock to bang them with instead of a $110 tool.

For the headlamp, the Thrunite TH20 or the Manker E03H are made out of aluminum and I would prefer them over the BD spot, but that's just me.

I highly recommend the Thrunite TH20 headlamp. Durable, fairly lightweight, simple usage, waterproof; perfect for camping. It can get pretty bright if you need it or has very low levels, too. More floody but with a defined hot spot. I recommend the neutral white version. Uses a single regular AA battery or you can use rechargeables if you like. A single battery gives decent run time unless you run it on high all the time. For camp use, I generally don't use it past 15-25% brightness. $29 on Amazon.

ThruNite TH20 Neutral White 520 Lumen CREE XP-L LED Headlamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FCV32SI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ayOYAb2GT9JK5

Edit: the TH20 isn't bulky on your head like an 18650 based headlamp, but if you need lots of brightness for longer run time, you might consider one of those instead. I use it in pitch black backpacking situations and don't need anything brighter, in fact I've mostly used comparatively very dim headlamps for over 20 years, until getting the TH20.

Awesome!

ThruNite TH20 Neutral White 520 Lumen CREE XP-L LED Headlamp

The Plano 5231 is very popular. Here you can see it in use. Note: I've added 2 Z-95's, 1 Phantom and 1 Defender and it all still fits.

Sorry, that made me laugh. Not piano! P-L-A-N-O :)

Plano is a brand name. Here's an example from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Plano-Molding-5231-Organizer-Porsche/dp/B000HJ9514/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1466449633&sr=8-3&keywords=plano

Although the way Fantasy Flight is pumping out expansions for Eldritch Horror these days, a piano box might eventually be necessary!

Until your collection grows, one or two of these will serve you well. I use two currently and strap them together using suitcase straps.

https://www.amazon.com/Plano-Molding-5231-Organizer-Porsche/dp/B000HJ9514/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1466958793&sr=8-3&keywords=plano

Save for the epic ships, I essentially have a very similar number/distribution of ships as you. I use the Plano 5231. One for the rebels and one for the empire. It does a good job of holding all the small ship, cards, and maneuver dials in the bottom. And the top works well for all the small focus/evades/TLs and such on the top. The only problem I have with it is the storage of the larger ships. I can only seem to fit one YT-1300 in for the rebels, and one firespray plus lambda for the empire. Over all for the price I am happy with them, and there is still room for small ships. I just need to figure out something for larger ships

This case made by Plano is outstanding for holding everything Carcassonne. The compartments on top hold all of the tokens and them some with each being able to have their own separate compartments, and the inside compartments hold all of your tiles plus room for labeling and plenty of room for extra stuff as well. A few pieces of paper like your collections rules can also fit inside as well.

I use these for Lego, would work well for AR parts.

Soak it up really well with a penetrating lubricant. I'm fond of PB Blaster and Knock 'er Loose. Soak it well over several days. Then, gently heat the outer section with a torch, and twist.

Alternatively, you can use a jack to separate them. You'll need a way to attach to both sections, with a grip of some sort, then just use the jack to drive them apart.

Say hello to my little friend.

WD-40 is great for some things, like moisture displacement and cleaning rust. It is not a penetrant, so it won't eat it's way into the corrosion (if there is much) on the threads.

PB Blaster is technically a penetrating catalyst, it's entire purpose is to penetrate into things and allow you to break them loose more easily. It actually pulls itself into the crevices and lubes things that WD-40 would never get to.

You drill into it with a reverse (left handed) drillbit, running your drill in reverse. That will probably bring the bolt out, but if it doesn't you use an Easy Out screw extractor to screw it out. Here is a kit with both left handed bits and extractors. You can get individual tools at a local hardware store. Soak it well wit PB Blaster first.

Also, soak the bolts in PB Blaster. I swear that stuff is straight magic.
http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E

A lot of people are saying leverage, which will work. Alternatively, go with a power tool! Find the right sized bit (no idea if any of that set matches) and an impact driver and you should be able to unscrew it without much difficulty (after much soaking in penetrating oil).

Seriously, replace them for your boat kit. There's a lot of overlap with rock climbing, and any safe climber will tell you that exhausted gear like this should be retired from your active kit because someone might inadvertently use it.

I know the situations where you'll need a 23kN carabiner on the river are vanishingly small, but you don't want to risk it. Corrosion is insidious, too, and you might not be able to tell how much strength has been lost by visual inspection. If you've got a biner on the river or crag, it should be able to be used for all original purposes (even if it's marked) so that you don't accidentally use a bad biner in a critical situation.

If you're going for non-survival use, PB Blaster is insanely useful, as any mechanic working on cars in cold-weather climates can tell you.

Conceivably, if you're a dab hand with a blowtorch, heat and vicegrips could get the job done, but you really, really, really can't use them for anything safety related if you do that.

Read up on freeing stuck bolts on cars; I think it's your best bet. Don't use those biners in your gearbag, though.

Try some pb blaster on all the moving metal joints. They could be rusted or otherwise frozen with grime.

What tools do you have?

For longevity target rust. Sand, grind, scrape it down and paint it with hightemp paint. You can replace the grates if you want just search cooking/grill grates on Amazon and you'll probably find something that fits. Personally I'd replace the handles. I hate a grill that feels like it wants to crush my hand when I'm taking a peek or sticking in a temperature probe.

IF I were cleaning it up I'd take this to it, inside and out, and repaint the whole thing. If you don't have an angle grinder a Drill version works (preferably with a cord, batteries don't last that long). I'd remove/replace all wood (handles particularly), hardware, screws, bolts, anything that comes off. Maybe something with the hinges, probably some PB Blaster to break up that rust then some WD40 to coat/lubricate whats left.

To use it, clean off the grates and smoke something, it's usable as is. Get it nice and hot then bring the temperature down and let it go. You may find that it is to big/small for you. People underestimate the charcoal and wood required to keep a smoker this big going. I personally couldn't use one this big, smoking 3 times what you eat sounds good til you throw away good brisket or ribs a week later. If you want to smoke as much as possible get the smoker that makes it easy, not the one that feeds your extended family once a year. For free, just use it and see before you invest time/money.

6.75" according to Amazon

Titanium Spork

I'm got an alcohol stove, GSI Tea Kettle, and a titanium spork. I take a little aluminum cup that I use for instant coffee/tea but I've been thinking about getting a sea to summit xmug because they pack down nice. One of my favorite things is a little table by cascade wild.

Yup! I hadn't either until I stumbled upon it. This guy.

Salt/Pepper: In a small sandwich bag inside Ziploc bag (with other spices) then rubberband it together to prevent opening.


Oil: Small Nalgene bottles. Durable, seal very well, easy to clean.


Spatula: Silicone Spatula good to 500F (or more) similar to this but a bit lighter.


Utensils: Titanium spork and a plain-edge Spyderco knife I carry anyway.


Tongs: Lightweight tongs (metal).


I never carry a ladle. I eat/drink out of pot or pour/scoop with spatula.


*Edit for formatting

A Titanium Spork means never having to eat your icecream with a stick.

Seconding the wine bottle gift bag idea, as my first thought would've been something like a large Crown Royal bag ;) I would suggest this as a good starting stone; he can get a lower or higher grit stone at some point if he wants, but this will serve just fine.

> Let's start with my bread knife, which works quite well.

looks fine

> Then we have this, which I got in a set but have NO IDEA what I'm supposed to use it for. It looks like it's supposed to hurt and not cut.

toss

> Then there are these two.

The second one is a steak knife (raised tip). The first one baffles me. I wouldn't use either for vegetables

> Also, I have this peeling knife, which is the one I'm most frustrated with. Peeling onions or anything that I can't use a peeler for just takes so long.

do you really use a bird beak paring knife for peeling onions? why not just cut off the ends then cut it in half and peel off the top layer? the victorianox one should be a fine replacement but I wouldn't use it for onions.

> Now to my general cutting knifes:

a paring knife, two chefs knives and a santoku. The Ikea santoku is probably the best out of the three, at least with honing and sharpening. i'd toss the other two. The santoku should be able to take care of almost all of your needs as its a general purpose knife

---

Considering your budget, I would probably pick up two knives - https://www.chefknivestogo.com/fufkmgy21.html and https://www.chefknivestogo.com/fufkmpe15.html. If you can only pick up one i'd pick up the first one.

Alternatively you can get the Victorinox fibrox for all the same sizes.

For sharpening I would pick up https://www.amazon.com/Kuromaku-Ceramic-Whetstone-Medium-Grit/dp/B001TPFT0G and watch a few youtube videos on how to sharpen. practice on the Ikea knife before using it on the new knives. The Ikea knife should be sharpened at a steeper angle than the japanese knives.

This?. Would you mind giving me a high level explanation of the grits when it comes to sharpening knives or linking me some resources? I am good with the water vs. oil and natural vs synthetic debate and can find how to videos but would like a deeper understanding of the grit thing and beginner vs advanced. Thanks.

Get a shapton pro 1k, it's a splash stone and that's all you need ATM.

$60 can on Amazon so you still have $20 left for naniwa nagura

Ha No Kuromaku Ceramic Whetstone Medium Grit #1000 by Shapton https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001TPFT0G/

As for your next knife purchase, head over to /r/chefknives and fill out the recommendation form. Dalstrong is mediocre. For the price, you can do much better.

Also, as an alternative to a cheap sharpening system, there are very good, regular stones (not part of a system) that can be had for as low as $36 (like the Shapton 1000. It takes a little more practice, but it sounds like you have the knives to practice with. Youtube is quite the teacher. Just another option to consider.

I prefer waterstones for kitchen knives, and have a pretty extensive stone setup but a single ~1k grit stone will be just fine for most people. If your knives have any significant chipping you might want something coarser, but otherwise a 1k should be fine (given a little patience if they're in bad shape). No real need to go above 1k for most people, I'd recommend This Shapton 1000 or This king 800 grit. The king is a bit softer and will dish faster than the shapton one will. If you're able to flatten it easily this isn't an issue.

In terms of the actual sharpening technique, This is a good starting point for the basic movements, Jon really knows his stuff and if you watch through all the videos in that playlist you'll be set. I personally switch hands when i flip the knife as I find it's a more natural movement. So long as you hit both sides evenly, raise a burr, then remove this burr correctly you'll have a sharp knife.

Hi,

I got the shapton Kuromaku 1000 (Japanese Shapton pro) and have been very happy with it. It’s also right within your budget.

https://www.amazon.com/Kuromaku-Ceramic-Whetstone-Medium-Grit/dp/B001TPFT0G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541257897&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=shapton+kuromaku+1000&dpPl=1&dpID=41uhuBgfaBL&ref=plSrch

I also got a large silicon pet mat for $10 to act as my sharpening pond.

Not sure what you mean by "sharpeners" but from your 13 - 200 range I'm guessing you're looking at pull through devices that range from a cheap piece of plastic crap with some sort of abrasive "V" in it to the electric powered, better built machine with multiple abrasive "V's" in it.

The pull throughs at either end of the price spectrum are not good for sharpening any sort of quality blade. They grind off too much steel, They only work with symmetrical blades. I would not leave any of my knives in the same room with one.

Suggest you consider a sharpening stone or two. Whet stone sharpening is a bit of a skill but it's quick to become proficient with it. Your budget would support a single mid range grit stone, reach a little and you could pick up a finishing stone as well. I like the Sharpton Pro 1K as a first stone https://www.amazon.com/Kuromaku-Ceramic-Whetstone-Medium-Grit/dp/B001TPFT0G

Learning to sharpen can be a skill that will serve a lifetime.

I know you said you wanted a Japanese handle but I think you should consider a Misono Molybdenum. It was my first knife and I’m honestly still happy with it.
Its inexpensive, tough, takes a pretty good edge, and has good fit and finish. It won’t take as keen of an edge as the knives you mentioned.. but its easy to sharpen which is great if you’re learning how to.

I own a Ginga too and its pretty amazing but I wouldn’t want it as my sole knife. It’s a really thin blade so its a bit more fragile than the Misono. I personally would rather have a tougher knife if I only had one.

I also really like the Hi-soft cutting board. It’s easy on knives, has some weight and theres very little maintenance. Just don’t put it in the dishwasher.

Misono Molybdenum 240mm ~ $112.50

(Korin is having a 15% off sale on knives right now)
http://korin.com/HMI-MOGY-240?sc=27&category=280076

Hi-Soft Cutting Board ~ $48.00

(From Korin. Combine the shipping with the Misono)
http://korin.com/HiSoft-Cutting-Board_3?sc=28&category=286082

Bester 1200 ~ $55

(Leaves a good edge alone)

OR

Shapton Pro 1000 ~ $35

(I like the Bester better but this is a really good deal on Amazon Prime)
https://www.amazon.com/Kuromaku-Ceramic-Whetstone-Medium-Grit/dp/B001TPFT0G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500081962&sr=8-1&keywords=shapton+pro+1000

Suehiro Rika 5000 ~ $50

(Optional.. nice to have tho)

Atoma 400 ~$60

(For stone flattening. You can buy a cheaper plate if you want)
https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Diamond-Sharpener-Medium-400/dp/B0031KNR2O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500081982&sr=8-1&keywords=atoma+400
I know the link says generic.. but this is an Atoma 400. Just make sure you buy the one that is Amazon Prime

I wouldn’t spend all $500 at once. You can always buy a nicer knife later.. and having two knives is convenient anyway.

Get a shapton kuromaku 1k. Cheapest and best 1k outside of the chosera and less than half the cost.

Here it is - https://www.amazon.com/Kuromaku-Ceramic-Whetstone-Medium-Grit/dp/B001TPFT0G

If you want to stay with just 2 stones, get a Japanese stone or coticule. You will find small ones for under $40 and large ones upwards of $1000+++

If you have any specific questions, send me a pm. I have hundreds of stones.

Checkout /r/chefknives and /r/sharpening, they have a lot of resources on all the stuff youll eventually need and how to get started learning to sharpen. As far as stone recommendations I would say a good starter spot is the King 1000/6000 or a combination of the Shapton stones if it’s in your budget. Personally I think just the Shapton 1k is a good starting spot and build from there. Here’s the link to the Shapton 1k

I'd go for something like this:

• Shapton 1k - https://www.amazon.com/Kuromaku-Ceramic-Whetstone-Medium-Grit/dp/B001TPFT0G/
  
  
• Shapton 5k - https://www.amazon.com/Whetstone-Sharpening-SHAPTON-Ceramic-KUROMAKU/dp/B001TPH8YG/
  
  That's just $90. Maybe much later when you really need a rough stone, get the 320 Shapton or something in Diamond for ~30

Left to right


Muji Eraser


[Sigg 0.6L water bottle] (http://siggnorthamerica.com/shop/classic-traveller/0-6l-classic-traveller/)


[Muji Gel Pen] (https://www.muji.eu/pages/online.asp?Sec=13&Sub=52)


[Alvin DRAFT-TEC RETRAC 0.3mm] (https://www.amazon.com/Alvin-DR07-Draf-Tec-Retrac-Mechanical/dp/B001DKJ55C)


[Leatherman Style PS] (https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Style-PS-Multi-Tool-Black/dp/B0058RX9NU)


Chapfix+


Anker SoundBuds Sport IE 20


[Fisher Space Pen] (https://www.amazon.com/Fisher-400B-Space-Bullet-Pen/dp/B000WGD13U)


[Leatherman Wave Black] (https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Multi-Tool-Black-Molle-Sheath/dp/B0009JS2ZW)


[Mee Audio M6 Pro] (https://www.amazon.com/MEE-audio-Universal-Fit-Noise-Isolating-Detachable/dp/B015S2I6A0)


[Random Knife] (http://www.smorgasburg.com/)


[Corsair Voyager Go 32GB] (https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Voyager-USB3-0-Android-devices/dp/B00HVT27CW)


[Kershaw Cryo 1555Ti] (https://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1555TI-SpeedSafe-Folding-Knife/dp/B0074FI28Q)


[Alpine Swiss Slim Wallet] (https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-Swiss-Genuine-Leather-Pocket/dp/B00EOYKEEA)


[Anker PowerCore 10000 with Quick Charge 3.0] (https://www.anker.com/products/A1264011)


[Seiko SNDC31] (https://www.amazon.com/Seiko-SNDC31-Classic-Stainless-Chronograph/dp/B004JY0KP8)


[Lenovo T440s (256GB Samsung 840 EVO, 12GB ram, 1080p touchscreen, i5 4300)]
(http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/thinkpad/t-series/t440s/)


[Motorola Doid Turbo Ballistic Nylon 32GB] (https://www.verizonwireless.com/smartphones/droid-turbo/)

For Light Carry:

• Leatherman Style PS - TSA approved or Leatherman Micra
  
  
• Fenix E12 Flashlight - I believe this is the successor to the EO5
  
  
• Zebra F-301 Pen or Fisher Bullet Space Pen - the stainless wears better in your pocket.
  
  
• Moleskin Volant Notebook
  
  
• SOG Flash I - if you can swing the extra $10 or get the cheaper pen, I HIGHLY recommend this knife as a very minimal yet practical knife. I've sort of chunked the rest and this one is with me all the time. Also very public-friendly size.
  
  

multitool with no blade
style PS

Looks like:
LEATHERMAN https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058RX9NU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IjGmDbDPGMT4Q

Leatherman Skeletool is a great item, which you should be able to get in that range. I got the upgraded Skeletool CX for under that from r/knife_swap.

If you want smaller try the Leatherman Style or Gerber Dime . The Style comes with scissor main tool or pliers.

Full size I’d suggest the Leatherman Wingman .

I'd try to build this EDC with the assumption that I could keep it for years (if not indefinitely):

Wallet: allett Ultra Slim Sport Wallet - $15

Knife: Opinel No. 6 Carbon - $12

Multitool: Leatherman Style PS - $25

Light: Olight i3s - $15

Pen: Zebra Sarasa Clip - $3

Watch: Timex Weekender - a variant under $30

I EDC a Style PS right now, and have EDCed the Olight i3s and Zebra Sarasa Clip in the past. I own (but have never EDCed) an Opinel No. 8 stainless, and it's excellent, but I wish it were smaller and could sharpen up even more, so No. 6 carbon it is. I've handled allett wallets in stores and trust their usability and quality. The Timex Weekender is the only one on this list that I haven't had direct experience with, but it's the cheapest watch I could find that I'd feel I could keep for a long time.

I would consider any tailstanding AAA light under $15 with a reasonable high and low. I went with the Olight i3s because I've used it, but I'd also take the Lumintop Worm or Thrunite Ti3 if I could get it under $15.

I couldn't give up my blade, so I settled on one of these.

Leatherman has one without a blade that is TSA approved but very limited in tools. I brought it with me everywhere but Thailand wanted me to check it in so I tossed it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0058RX9NU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486184629&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=tsa+approved+leatherman&dpPl=1&dpID=41M01p2aAJL&ref=plSrch

Buy one of these bad boys if you want that good glow you’re looking for

Escolite UV Flashlight Black Light, 51 LED 395 nM Ultraviolet Blacklight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008133KB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_c2o3AbRPH4TZH

$10
Awesome UV Flashlight

I have this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008133KB4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_zWuDzb6ZJRA79

I used this one over the summer and it worked perfectly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008133KB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3JpOBbA4VQVHF

I actually really like the idea of wearing a florescent vest and using a black light instead. It would make you stand out even more and it would not mess up your night vision.

I have one of these, works great: https://smile.amazon.com/Esco-Lite-Ultraviolet-flashlight-Blacklight-Battery/dp/B008133KB4/

Just keep in mind what /u/NinjaCoder said, you cannot unsee what it reveals. :)

Buy one of these to find them and get something sturdy to smash them with.

This is a young Bark Scorpion (note long, thin pincers) and their sting is pretty harsh.

Source: I have killed a few dozen this year after finding them in our house and being stung.

Bought it on amazon for $10

Here’s the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008133KB4/ref=pd_aw_lpo_468_bs_img_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=J68HS6WT4KYAK1KCBYD0

My shower tips (mostly include ways to avoid showering)

1. Use a portable bidet- you can fill it with warm water and soap and spray yourself over the toilet. Saves on toilet paper (you can still use some to dry off) , leaves you feeling fresh.
   Canada: https://www.amazon.ca/Brondell-GS-70-GoSpa-Travel-Bidet/dp/B008CSDKSQ/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=portable+bidet&qid=1564670246&s=gateway&sr=8-5
   USA: https://www.amazon.com/Brondell-GS-70-Portable-Convenient-Capacity/dp/B008CSDKSQ/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=portable+bidet&qid=1564670345&s=gateway&sr=8-5
   
   
2. Scrub at the sink with a facecloth and soap. Sit on the floor or toilet if you like, and scrub yourself with the soapy facecloth. Then with a non-soapy one. Dry off.
   
   
3. Cut your hair short, or give yourself an undercut, or both. Then wash your hair at the sink. Dries quick!
   
   
4. In the shower- sit down. I sit on the floor of the shower, you could also get a shower stool. Don't use hot water if you are heat intolerant (or blast yourself with some cooler water every so often) Bring a cup of cool water with you to drink.
   
   
5. Have a floor towel. I lay one on the floor before I get in. When I get out I just lay on the towel and pull another one over top of me. I can rest there until I can move properly.

I don't live in a dorm, but I use this when traveling

https://www.amazon.ca/Brondell-GS-70-GoSpa-Travel-Bidet/dp/B008CSDKSQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466004533&sr=8-1&keywords=portable+bidet

I bought one of these portable bidets for post pregnancy, but now that toilet paper usage is getting ridiculous, maybe I should just keep a little towel by the toilet and use this instead of toilet paper!

Tempted to buy one of these bad boys

I do the bidet too. Grabbed one of these that i keep in my backpack for work poops. No ragrets.

Here's the one I got: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CSDKSQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've been using it for less than a week, so I haven't made a final decision on how I'd rate it. So far it gets the job done, though.

Portable bidet.

This one

And This one

The first one I find has a bit more pressure, but both get the job done. The first one is more portable obviously. All I have to do is get my hands on a 20oz bottle. I've literally cleaned my bum with straight Dasani water (cause we all know it's not worth drinking).

Personally, I'd just assume all is well. Also, I'd highly recommend a good desolder tool (here's a cheap one I bought, haven't tested it yet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DJRYIG). Also, get flux. Lots of flux.

Taking my advice on this is probably not the best advice ever, but man, I don't know how you'd test one component without soldering it to something else, which means you'd need to unsolder it twice, etc.

I've heard tons of good things about this, especially for the price!

The sage switches & Toxic cap set onto the Ducky, then the Cherry Browns from the Ducky into the E-element sounds like a solid plan. Probably what I would do also TBH. Just be careful de-soldering the Ducky since it was originally wave soldered with lead free solder. This means the solder will have a pretty high melting temp & just be an all around pain in the ass to remove.

I strongly suggest getting at least a cheap de-soldering iron like this or this, plus some solder wick for doing it. Also remember that hitting a stubborn joint with a fresh coat of leaded solder will usually let it all come out on the next shot at de-soldering it. You don't want to have to try to de-solder the same joint more than twice, each time increases the chances of damaging the PCB or lifting the pad.

If you don't have a proper vacuum desoldering gun something like this or this is probably worth it just for this mod. It'll save you a decent amount of time and make things easier.

This one?

Sure first here's the LED strips, Power Adapters, and Dimmer. Looks like they've gone up in price a bit since I did it but it's still not too bad. I didn't take any in progress pictures so I'll just have to describe how setup went. The LED strips come with a sticky back side so I just stuck that to the poles on the front side of the Detolf. I used 1 LED strip, 1 dimmer, and 1 power adapter per 2 Detolfs but you could also use 1 strip per Detolf. This will give you more even lighting, and the power adapter should still be able to handle powering 2 fine, you'd just need to also buy a connector for the 2 strips. After you've got the stuff its as simple as just taping on the stip in a |‾| running from the outside poles and across the top of the Detolf, running the power cord outside of it through the gap in the door, and the plugging in the dimmer.

Thanks so much! I highly recommend these LED strips. They're paper thin so they bend easily at the corners of a detolf. You'll need this adapter for the power.

My only complaint about them is that they're a little too bright at first. You get used to them though! You can't beat this nice even white lighting and the ease of installation.

Given that is looks like mine, I'm going to assume they are:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF66JO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Output-Listed/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DKSI0S8&pd_rd_r=ET8Y5X5FM7Q06TP33QBH&pd_rd_w=Xw11o&pd_rd_wg=ZQTfN&psc=1&refRID=ET8Y5X5FM7Q06TP33QBH

To install: https://www.reddit.com/r/AnimeFigures/comments/7psgup/dioder_alternatives/dsjy59n/ (Follow the pictures in the chain)

I bought these after a suggestion from another person on this forum. I didn't think they would work, but WOW, it made a huge difference. Brightened my area unbelievably good. First link is the LED lights. Second link is the adapter to be able to plug it in.

I just wrapped mine around the inside of my window.

LE 16.4ft LED Flexible Strip Lights, 300 Units SMD 3528 LEDs, 12V DC Non-waterproof, Light Strips, LED ribbon, DIY Christmas Holiday Home Kitchen Car Bar Indoor Party Decoration (Daylight White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_r-dzybVRAW2Y5

LE Power Adapter, Transformers, Power Supply For LED Strip, Output 12V DC, 3A Max, 36 Watt Max, UL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ObezybTYECE37

https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Non-waterproof-Christmas-Decoration-Daylight/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526496163&sr=8-3&keywords=led+strip+lights

get this!

youre also gonna need this

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Output-Listed/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DKSI0S8&pd_rd_r=G8HHS4XR6MNMHDCCSNZV&pd_rd_w=RgFLj&pd_rd_wg=qhiRw&psc=1&refRID=G8HHS4XR6MNMHDCCSNZV

Based on the specifications of that monitor, it requires a 7-18V DC power adapter. Within that range, you can get at 12V DC adapter for cheap and they're very common and generic. The amperage required by the monitor is less than 1A, so a this power adapter will work fine. Within the specifications of your monitor, and not expensive.

i bought these LED strip lights, which can be cut down to whatever length, and this power supply. i also bought some extra wire and connectors so i could run one long strip of LED lights through all four enclosures. worked around the adhesive issue by hot gluing the fuck out of them. i scratched up a line about two inches away from the front wall, to create some texture for the hot glue to grab, and allowed some extra glue to sort of wrap around the strip and prevent the strip from being peeled away from the glue.

LEDs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Power Brick: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DKSI0S8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can cut the LED strip and then re-solder them together. I used these wires for that: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QTCBZ4I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks! I purchased all the LED parts from Amazon. Here are the links.

LED Strip: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JQV6NNC
Power Supply: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DKSI0S8
Dimmer: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JQ437YM

The LED Strip can be cut every three lights, so you can make it whatever length you want. I have a ton of it left over. For the dimmer I just cut the power cord a few inches after the adaptor and wired it into the terminal block.

Do not get a cheap radioshack soldering iron. Get a cheap Chinese soldering iron off amazon. Something with a digital temp gauge. I’ll edit this comment with a link to the one I have later. Their are a couple different methods to this job. Some people get little angled clippers and clip the 4 legs off of the tact switch and then heat up the solder and pull out the legs this method is easy but you risk cutting into the board. The other method is to properly use a solder sucker / solder wick and desolder the old switches. Do not hold the soldering iron to this board for too long you will pull traces. Believe me I did it my first time. Soldering is not that difficult but with everything the more you practice the better you become. I think some early mistakes are using too much solder, you really don’t need a lot.


My soldering set up: Soldering iron

better solder tip cleaner

better solder sucker

better solder (reccomended)

Also if you’re soldering leaded solder indoors maybe think about your health and what you’re inhaling.
air filter

Last words: everything in that kit will get you by just fine. Personally I think the solder it comes with is garbage. I hate the cheap solder suckers and I use them so often I bought that other one. Keep your iron tips clean. This means basically run some solder on the tip and dunk it in that gold wire mesh often. If your tip is getting dark it’s getting too hot and will have a harder time flowing solder. Keep it nice and shiny.

How much are you going to be making electronics a hobby? If you're just going to be soldering some boards occasionally you could save a bit on the iron and get this Weller. Also a cleaner. If you go with the 888 that will have a wire cleaner built in. I'm getting old so I personally would recommend at least a magnifying glass. I have this helping hand The clips didn't do much for me but the glass did. There are times where the switch pin just gets lost and the glass helped a lot. I also picked up this kit when I started, primarily for the sucker, but I thought the other tools may come in handy. So far they haven't, other than the solder. The first time I tried to use the sucker I could not get it to work correctly, I just wasn't getting enough of a seal around the hot solder, thinking I'd melt the tip, so I ended up buying a different pump that I still have never used, because I eventually DID learn to use the cheaper sucker. I also can't make solder wick work properly, apparently. If this is your first time soldering/desoldering I recommend getting a cheap practice kit that you don't care if you ruin. I can recommend this one as it has you intentionally foul up joins so you can learn to fix them. You won't need strippers. Flush cutters would be helpful if you need to trim the pcb mount legs off your switches (like Zealios, which you will if you have a GH60 Satan pcb) or trimming LEDs. Work mat would be helpful to keep your work area clean but not necessary. You will need a small screwdriver but I can't remember what size. Tweezers or one of these grabber thingies are always helpful when the screw flips sideways when you are trying to seat it. I used this solder on 3 builds so far and have had no issues with joins failing.

Brass all the way. This one is only $10. There are other ones that are cheaper that I have used, but I like the Hakko one best. It only costs as much as a few bags of props. I "dip my tip" before every joint and I have consistent heat and a good tin. A cleaner also helps extend the life of your soldering iron tip and heating element. The problem with using a wet sponge is that it cools the tip down every time and the iron has to heat back up to temp. This probably isn't a huge deal for occasional use, but for frequent use this constant heating/cooling cycle can cause the tip to wear out prematurely. A sponge is also more prone to holding contaminants unless you are regularly swapping it out. For example, if you have some excess solder the blobs will build up in the sponge. With a brass cleaner, they will drop down to the bottom and about once a month you can pull the brass out, and empty the holder in the trash. I started out using a wet sponge, and I also noticed that my tip didn't seem to get as clean as when I switched over to the brass cleaner.

For the majority of people just doing the occasional build I don't think there is anything wrong with a wet sponge. But if you are doing a lot of other electronics work or building / repairing more frequently, it's a good idea to get a cleaner.

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-599B-02-Solder-Cleaning-Holder/dp/B00FZPGDLA/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_469_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JQJM1RVZMHS0H0J1QZ2M

This cleans my solder tip amazingly well. I use the sponge to wipe down debris, then run it through the wire and it looks brand new.

Drop what you're doing and order this.

You're the best man, I love the h03, would be great to have a second one to keep in the car at all times. Neutral white, in case the link isn't right.


Skilhunt 1000Lumens 18650 Headlamp EDC Flashlight Waterproof Cree LED Headlight for Outdoor Sports Hands-free Camping Light Brightness Flood Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LEOL3LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-cFhAbJEGFJB0

Thanks for doing these giveaways. Hope I win one sometime! My want:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LEOL3LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lE3CCbXZECM8C?th=1&psc=1

More flood or throw?

If flood: Skilhunt H03 Neutral White!

Awesome little light. I just got mine a few days ago and it has replaced my olight S20r already. It's tiny, and puts out a ton of light with 8 brightness modes from 0.3 to 900 lumens. It's a right angle light with a pocket clip, magnetic tail cap and head strap. It's basically a perfect car light.

Edit: if you want more throw, the H03R is only $34. It's not as floody and has more throw.

Edit2: oops H03R is out of stock

Edit 3: Apparently Amazon carries the Skilhunts as well. Both the H03 NW and the H03R both cheaper than GearBest's full prices.

I use the GE smart switches with a smart things hub.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ACMvCb57QX7S0

I'd recommend going with a SmartThings hub. The Echo can easily interface with it, and you can control it from both your iPhones and Apple Watch (I find the utility of controlling things from my Mac to be pretty low, and so don't really bother -- but I'll mention one possible solution below).

Here's what I recommend:

1. Get and install a SmartThings Hub along with the iOS and watchOS apps (if you install SmartThings Classic, your phone can send and install the watchOS app to your watch through the Watch app).
   
2. There is a SmartApp for SmartThings you can install to connect to and control your MyQ garage door
   
3. Ring already works with SmartThings, so nothing to really do here.
   
4. For the lighting, I recommend installing smart switches, replacing your existing light switches for the lights in question. I like the GE switches myself.
   
5. If you really want to be able to control everything from your Mac(s), install and configure HomeBridge. This bit of software will emulate Apple HomeKit for the devices connected to your SmartThings Hub. Then you can simply use the Home app built into macOS 10.14 to connect to and organize your devices for use on your Macs, iPad, iPhone, and Apple Watch.
   
   HTH!

Hey /u/Mercury357 !

Sorry I can't offer much advice when it comes to Inovelli or Zooz, but I'm sure you'll get a great response from some of the other members here.

I can however, relay that the GE Switches are on sale right now on Amazon for $30.99 and the GE Dimmers are on sale for $32.99

Our Add-On switches work great for 3 and 4-way setups as well, those run $19.50 right now

If you have any questions about GE product, feel free to ask. :)

Raspberry Pi zero w

Relay

Boards

Power Connector

USB Power

Solder kit

Tower Light

Wire diagram

Code in python not the best but that I got on phone.

!/usr/bin/env python2

import RPi.GPIO as GPIO
import json
import base64
import requests
import datetime
import logging
import random
from time import sleep

logging.basicConfig(filename='ci-light.log', filemode='w', format='%(name)s - %(levelname)s - %(message)s')

RED = 17
GREEN = 22
YELLOW = 27
global_state = -2
times = {
"1" : datetime.time(2, 0),
"2" : datetime.time(2, 15),
"5" : datetime.time(2, 30),
"3" : datetime.time(2, 45),
"4" : datetime.time(3, 0),
"5" : datetime.time(3, 15)
}

Pat= “{token}”
bauth = "Basic " + base64.b64encode(':'+pat)

GPIO.setmode(GPIO.BCM)
GPIO.setup(RED, GPIO.OUT)
GPIO.setup(GREEN, GPIO.OUT)
GPIO.setup(YELLOW, GPIO.OUT)

def clearRed():
GPIO.output(RED, 0)
def setRed():
GPIO.output(RED, 1)
def clearGreen():
GPIO.output(GREEN, 0)
def setGreen():
GPIO.output(GREEN, 1)
def clearYellow():
GPIO.output(YELLOW, 0)
def setYellow():
GPIO.output(YELLOW, 1)
def clearLights():
GPIO.output(RED, 0)
GPIO.output(GREEN, 0)
GPIO.output(YELLOW, 0)

tests to make sure lights and relay are functioning as appropriate

def start_up():
clearLights()
setRed()
sleep(1)
clearRed()
setYellow()
sleep(1)
clearYellow()
setGreen()
sleep(1)
clearGreen()

Does little click and light dance to be passive aggressive. don't break builds

def put_on_show(times):
factor = 0.2
while (times > 0):
setRed()
sleep(factor)
clearRed()
setYellow()
sleep(factor)
clearYellow()
setGreen()
sleep(factor)
clearGreen()
setYellow()
sleep(factor)
clearYellow()
times -= 1
factor -= 0.015

blinks light

def blink_light(light_pin):
GPIO.output(light_pin, 1)
sleep(0.1)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 0)
sleep(0.1)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 1)
sleep(0.1)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 0)
sleep(0.1)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 1)
sleep(0.1)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 0)
sleep(0.1)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 1)
sleep(0.1)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 0)
sleep(0.1)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 1)
sleep(0.1)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 0)
sleep(0.1)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 1)
sleep(0.1)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 0)
sleep(0.1)

Checks the builds for D or T then determines if broken

will need to be updated to account for unit tests being broken to change to yellow

def check_builds():
buildDefs = "http://{tfsserver}:8080/tfs/defaultcollection/Development/_apis/build/definitions"
buildsUri = "http://{tfsserver}:8080/tfs/defaultcollection/Development/_apis/build/builds?MaxBuildsPerDefinition=1&deletedFilter=excludeDeleted&queryOrder=finishTimeDescending&resultFilter=failed,succeeded,partiallySucceeded&definitions="
s = requests.Session()
s.headers.update({'Authorization': bauth})
r = s.get(buildDefs)

json1 = json.loads(r.text)
str1 = ''
for x in json1['value']:
if 'D' in x['name']:
str1 += str(x['id']) + ','
elif 'T' in x['name']:
str1 += str(x['id']) + ','
buildsUri += str1

r2 = s.get(buildsUri)

json2 = json.loads(r2.text)

state = 0

print(r2.status_code)

for x in json2['value']:
if x['result'] != 'succeeded':
return 1

return 0

print('starting up')
start_up()
print('started')

main logic loop

while (1):
sleep(3)
logging.info('Checking builds')
print('Checking builds')

new_state = check_builds()

check builds

if (global_state != new_state):<br />
    global_state = new_state<br />
    print('State changed')<br />
    logging.info('State changed')<br />
    if (new_state == 1):<br />
            print('Broken state - check your builds')<br />
            logging.error('Broken state - check your builds')<br />
            put_on_show(12)<br />
            blink_light(RED)<br />
            setRed()<br />
    elif (new_state == 0):<br />
            print('All clear!')<br />
            put_on_show(12)<br />
            blink_light(GREEN)<br />
            setGreen()<br />
    elif (new_state == -1):<br />
            print('Unit tests are broken - check your builds')<br />
            logging.error('Unit tests are broken - check your builds')<br />
            put_on_show(12)<br />
            blink_light(YELLOW)<br />
            setYellow()<br />
else:<br />
    logging.info('No change')<br />

Also a random human! Good luck!

I bought a cheap soldering kit from Amazon for $17 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZ31W3M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oedEzb5K4TWS4
Also a Dremel tool for sanding surfaces and cutting plastic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BYRFH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NfdEzbEYCCFER

Pickups almost never fail - they're just a big coil of wire, there's not really anything to go wrong with them.

The first thing to check is obvious - is your volume or tone control rolled off? It sounds silly, but it's easy to overlook if you rarely use the neck pickup.

The next most likely problem is the pickup selector switch. Les Pauls use an open type of selector switch that's prone to corrosion, especially if it's infrequently used. Plug your guitar in, strum the open strings, then click the pickup selector switch up and down and listen to your amp. If you can hear crackling or intermittent sound, it's probably the selector switch.

Most switch problems can be fixed with a squirt of DeoxIT, but the switch may need to be replaced. If you can solder, it's a ten minute job and a six dollar part. If you can't solder, this is a good opportunity to learn - you can buy a basic soldering iron kit for less than $20.

Failing that, take it to a competent luthier. Guitar electronics aren't particularly complicated, so it should be a cheap and quick fix.

Is this it?


https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Accessory-MasterBox-MasterCase/dp/B071P862G1/ref=sr_1_1?crid=120K5FPJA3MC9&keywords=coolermaster+gpu+mount&qid=1567529625&s=gateway&sprefix=coolermaster+gpu%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Accessory-MasterBox-MasterCase/dp/B071P862G1/ref=sr_1_1?crid=BFEA9DR9OX2U&keywords=cooler+master+vertical+gpu+mount&qid=1573195346&sprefix=cooler+master+ver%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-1

Thank yea, I had a blast actually doing it. the mount is made by Coolermaster.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071P862G1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

To add on to this, I got mines from Amazon for ~54 w/ tax and shipping.

The Cooler Master store, sells just the bracket for 20USD.

This is an amazing thing you do! ThruNite TH20 Neutral White headlamp

> I was wondering what your thoughts on the Tiara C1 Pro were compared to the standard Wizard?

It is bulky for a 16340 light but okay for an 18350 light. You can't lock yourself out of the Tiara Pro (or the regular Wizard), while you can lock yourself out of the Wizard Pro.

The Pro features include a boost driver, flashing modes and a battery voltage check. It also comes with a magnet but Armytek sells the magnetic tailcap as an upgrade for the plain lights.

The biggest downside is the headlamp mount. The 18650 lights have a great plastic clip. The Tiaras are still using the old silicon rubber mount. The new mount is more comfortable and very easy to pop the light in/out of.

Another small 16340 option to consider is the Olight H1 Nova. Though I prefer 1xAA for a small headlamp, like a Thrunite TH20.

ThruNite TH20 NW - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FCV32SI

Thanks for the give-away!

Thank you!
https://www.amazon.com/Skilhunt-H03/dp/B01LEOL3LU/?tag=parametrek-20&th=1&psc=1

Skilhunt H03! Thanks for the Giveaway!

A cheaper option to try similar to Wolczyk's suggestion is the skillhunt H03.

Review here.

Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LEOL3LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lE3CCbXZECM8C

You’re the best for doing this, especially so soon after the last one! Here’s my choice:

https://www.amazon.com/1000Lumens-Flashlight-Waterproof-Hands-free-Brightness/dp/B01LEOL3LU

> B-52s, I pretty much need to look at every panel/radome/pod per my inspection criteria.

So, a thrower/big spill light for exterior. During your inspections, do you have to crawl around inside, or does someone else do that? Reason I'm asking, you may be better off with two lights. Maybe a good flood type headlamp for interior inspections. There is also the Thorfire S70S, Beamshot, the Convoy L6, and the Eagle Eye X9, which are similar to the On the road, except with XHP70 emitters. Discount coupon codes available for all except maybe the eagle eye x9

GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Light Switch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AzXtDb8NM8BQF

Like others have said, the issue is more with space in the box behind the unit than it is side to side once you break off the heatsink tabs on the appropriate side. Here are a couple thoughts from my experience installing some a couple days ago:

1. Break off the tabs before connecting the wires to the switch. I forgot about the tabs on the first one I was doing until after I was ready to start screwing it back into the box. Also in a two-gang box you'll only need to break them off on the inward facing sides. On 3+ gang the central switches would need both sides done. Regardless, breaking them off before rather than after is much easier.
   
   
2. A good pair of pliers makes that much easier. I started out using a crappy pair of pliers from the toolkit that came as a "free gift" with the house because they happened to be closer at hand. The work could've been done with those pliers, but it became about 5 times easier and faster when I went out to the garage to get a better pair out of the toolbox.
   
   
3. On a couple of the switches I was working on, I noticed there was way more wire in the box than is actually needed. Normally I would be in favor of leaving excess extra in case it is needed for some future change, but a pair with a pair of wire cutters/strippers you can remedy much of the cursing other users are warning about when stuffing everything back in by removing some of the excess. Obviously only do that if you're confident you're leaving enough to work with both now and in the future.
   
   
4. Not related to the wiring, but I believe the one you linked to is not Z-wave Plus (just regular Z-wave). The Z-wave Plus version is available (looks like the same price right now, though the Plus version was actually slightly cheaper recently) here.
   
   
5. Also not related to wiring, but I've noticed there is a brief delay with the GE switches (I got the z-wave plus version, but I don't think that is the problem) between pressing it and the lights activating. This was even before connecting to any hub, so it's not a delay there. I'm assuming it's something I'll get used to in time, but it's worth being aware of before you buy them.

Assuming you have a neutral in the gangbox that houses the two switches for each fan, I would recommend the following:

• GE z-wave plus fan speed control switch
  
• GE z-wave plus light dimmer
  
  Use the pull cords to keep the light switch in the on position, and the fan speed at maximum. After that, you can control the light and fan exclusive using the new switches, the Wink app, or GH/Alexa.

This one does double tap:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511215435&sr=8-3&keywords=Ge+zwave+switch&dpID=41orYO6Z%252BWL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

You need a switched module (not lamp) and it will handle the fluorescents just fine. GE smart switch with a remote should do the job.

You don't have to rewire anything. One of your light switches is the real switch, and the other is connected to that first switch (not to the main power) Install the GE module at the real switch location, and install the remote at the other, it uses the same wiring.

If you're not sure you can tell the difference, or are concerned about doing a true 3 way, then you can use 1 GE smart module, and velcro an Aeotech Zwave remote near the other location to control it remotely.

Switch

Remote

Aeotech Remote

Do you mean something like this? https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Required-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R

SmartThings Version 3 Hub (I have the Version 2 Hub...you will have to look around for this one):
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989501&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=smartthings+hub+2nd+generation&psc=1

GE Z-Wave Plus On/Off Light Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+switch

GE Z-Wave Plus Dimmer Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B07361Y54Z/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave%2Bswitch&th=1

GE Add On Switch (if you have a 3-way or 4-way switch):
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989718&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+add+on+switch

ZigBee Motion Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F8ZHBLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee Door Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F956F3B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Leak Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F951JDP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Outlet Plug (you will need to replicate your ZigBee mesh, I use to motion activate lamps, turn lamps on/off at sunset/sunrise, etc.):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F96JB63/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Z-Wave Thermostat:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EJ7YO2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Landscape RGB LED Strips:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1PB2ZY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Lightbulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZBYXKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Z-Wave Deadbolt:
https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-SmartCode-Electronic-SmartThings-featuring/dp/B004F1B24I/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990126&sr=1-12&keywords=z-wave+lock

Z-Wave Garage Door Opener:
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990160&sr=1-4&keywords=z-wave+garage+door+opener

Sonos One Speakers (Great music, and talking through SmartThings):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XN1LH3/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Echo Show (for Voice Control...an Echo Dot will work just fine too):
https://www.amazon.com/All-new-Echo-Show-2nd-Gen/dp/B077SXWSRP/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990254&sr=1-1&keywords=echo+show

That's about all I can think of at the moment.

If you are going to do this, do it in stages. Z-Wave and ZigBee are mesh networks...meaning that the reliability of the network gets much better the more devices you have. Also, with these mesh networks:

• Battery operated devices DO NOT reinforce the mesh
  
• The only devices that reinforce the mesh are devices that are always powered from the mains
  
  I see so many people complaining about how the Z-Wave or ZigBee devices don't work, when they are relying on too many battery operated devices.
  
  For Z-Wave devices, choose Z-Wave Plus over Z-Wave...it's the newest standard, and has much better range.
  
  In the US, Z-Wave operates in the 900 MHz spectrum and ZigBee in the 2.4 GHz spectrum. Personally, I "prefer" Z-Wave devices as there is a lot of "junk" in the 2.4 GHz spectrum right now. However, the ZigBee devices are operating reliably as I have a strong mesh setup (with non-battery operated devices).
  
  Two great application for the Leak Sensors:
  
  
• Near your hot water heater (when they go, they always leak)
  
• Under your A/C drip pan (if you have central air)
  
  Great applications for door open/close sensors:
  
  
• Turn closet lights on/off when the door opens or closes
  
• Turn on entry and hallway lights when an entry door opens, but only when it's dark (30 minutes before sunset or after sunrise)...turn off 1 minute later
  
• Notify me when my gun safe is opened
  
  Great Application for Motion Sensors
  
  
• Turn on outside ceiling fans (but only if the temp is above 72 degrees)
  
• Turn on lamps while motion is active when it's dark
  
  The motion sensors I linked above are the new ones...the magnetically mount. What's cool is that the magnet is in the sensor, and it's strong enough to attach the sensor to a dry wall screw (no need to mount the adapter bracket).

Most people use the Aotech Zwave dongle here: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Stick-Z-Wave-create-gateway/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537259191&sr=8-1&keywords=aotech+zstick&dpID=41%252BuCNE13iL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
You could also get a combination Zwave/Zigbee dongle for even less: https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-CECOMINOD016164-Linear-HUSBZB-1/dp/B01GJ826F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537259245&sr=8-3&keywords=zigbee+dongle&dpID=41GzEBEgWSL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Alot of people start with Zwave or Zigbee controlled lights, but most people end up with Zwave switches instead, because humans need to also turn those devices on and off. The easiest Zwave switches/dimmers to acquire are the GE Line of Jasco switches, which are sold by https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Required-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1537259343&sr=8-2&keywords=ge+wave&dpID=51rDfQfpEAL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Do you think you'll use the features of the Hue bulbs? Like do you need the different colors or are you just looking to remotely control the lights?

I originally went with LIFX but decided that I didn't like the idea of having to replace every light bulb in my house with smart bulbs. Instead I've been opting for the GE Z Wave Plus switches and I've been loving them.

This way it doesn't matter what bulb is used, the whole switch is smart.

Why not just get a zwave dongle for your ha server and then a zwave ge switch?

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Stick-Z-Wave-create-gateway/dp/B00X0AWA6E

​

Have had this setup running for about 2 years now. I use the dimmers as well. I run HA in a docker on an unraid server without issues having it pickup the zwave stick.

The Z-Wave system is designed for interoperability, with management by a local hub that reaches out to the cloud as necessary. Hence there are many manufacturers, competitive pricing, interchangeable components, flexible control modalities. Also, a huge range of sensors, modules, controllers, locks, remote controls, and thermostats in addition to switches.

Wi-Fi smart devices are focused on ease of installation. Without standardized interfaces, the only way to offer remote control is through cloud management. Configuration and automation could be provided through a switch-hosted web server, but since the whole point is remote control and Echo/GH integration - and since the manufacturer has an eye on your data and your possible future income stream - the cloud solution wins. Wi-Fi power requirements means that in general these devices must be hardwired.

Non-cloud Kasa support requires an always-on computer running node.js, with manual device installation and static IP addresses everywhere. This is only an issue if TP-Link abandons the product or starts charging, in which case you have to decide whether it's worth the hassle...

I have a bunch of GE/Jasco switches and dimmers and one each of Leviton and Evolve - and also door/window sensors, motion sensors, thermostat, door lock, lamp modules, remotes, wall controllers, and garage door sensor.

The switches are all pretty much indistinguishable. GE/Jasco and HomeSeer 3-ways require a proprietary companion switch but you can dim from the companion and up always=on, down=off. Zooz and Inovelli 3-ways use your existing remote switch but no remote dimming and remote setting is random.

Making cables is easier than it sounds, and soldering isn’t difficult - but you’re right that you want to buy a decent iron at the bare minimum.

That said, a variable wattage soldering iron can be had for like $20 if you know where to look, consumables like solder and flux are super cheap and you don’t need a big soldering station if all you’re doing is making cables. If you’re curious hit YouTube and get an idea of whether or not you think you can handle it.

Soldering Kit

Cable Kit

That’s $50 worth of stuff and you can build six cables at whatever length you want. I think that’s still cheaper than lava cable at that rate and if you need more later you still have the equipment.

ANBES Soldering Iron Kit Electronics, 60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Tool, 5pcs Soldering Tips, Desoldering Pump, Soldering Iron Stand, Tweezers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZ31W3M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1yxIDb03XRX8S

Seconded, also consider this kind of thing: https://www.amazon.com/Aven-17010-Adjustable-Circuit-Holder/dp/B00Q2TTQEE/ - it's invaluable for PCBs. Just populate from one side, add something to hold stuff in place (like gaffa tape, or bend one lead, or clip on a sheet of paper, etc), turn over the PCB and start soldering away. I wouldn't want to miss mine.

Any soldering iron 40+W where you can regulate the temperature should do, I own a nice station but when I don't feel like breaking it out because it'd take longer to set it up than to do the job I use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/ANBES-Soldering-Iron-Kit-Electronics/dp/B06XZ31W3M/ set to 350°C. Just make sure to clean and tin your tip regularly and it will do the trick just fine Oh, but ditch the solder and get a few spools of good rosin core solder of different gauges, it's not expensive but worth it. In my experience, the solder that comes with kits like that mostly works as a deterrent.

If you're not planning on buying all-included kits also get a few spools of stranded core wire of different colors. You could use solid core wires but those tend to break if they're getting bended from movement without showing it. With stranded core some strands may break but as others don't they'll continue to work. Invisibly broken wires (i.e.) inside the isolation) are a *beeeeep* to debug.

Also, a set of tweezers are great to have, especially the kind that holds stuff together per default, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Curved-Tweezers-Cross-Jewelers-Soldering/dp/B000OVPG9A/ (only an example, I'd get a tweezers set that contains one like that).

In my experience a tool set like this one is great to have: https://www.amazon.com/Haobase-6Pieces-Double-sided-Soldering-Assist/dp/B01DLX6V3C/ - especially the bending tool is great to have, as it allows eg to bend the leads of a LED without running the risk of breaking the LED itself. It's also great in order to clean up mistakes, helps with desoldering and such

Speaking of desoldering: desoldering braid is a must. A desoldering pump can be useful, too. And yes, practice soldering and desoldering until you can do both without destroying anything.

If you're not going to buy pre-drilled enclosures then you very likely want a) a center punch and b) stepping drill bits. Those let you drill holes in all kinds of sizes without having to buy lots of drills.

Last but not least a wire cutter is a must

https://www.amazon.com/ANBES-Soldering-Iron-Kit-Electronics/dp/B06XZ31W3M?crid=1NQ8NYDFHTHAE&keywords=soldering+iron+kit&qid=1539188799&sprefix=soldering%2Caps%2C1057&sr=8-5&ref=sr_1_5 This would be a great little kit for you.

I bought the cheapest soldering kit on Amazon and it's lasted me through like 9 builds/re-builds so far. Still working fine. Something like this. I don't know exactly how accurate the temperature dial is, but it seems to be about right on mine.

Buying quality's never a bad idea, but you really don't have to if you're not using it a ton.

While it isn't possible to replace the switches without soldering, the solder job is a lot simpler than it seems. Just watch a good tutorial and get a decent 20 dollar solder kit off amazon and you'll be set. It's a good skill to learn. This solder set is amazing and actually comes with a solder sucker which you need to replace a switch anyways. I've used it hundreds of times and it's held up very well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZ31W3M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5pV3Bb60EXNJ0

Sorry nobody responded to such a simple question on this subreddit about mice. Apparently most people here don't care or know much about the hardware in their mouse. So I guess I'll be the one to answer your question.

Those are just standard 3 pin micro switches you can find on any ordinary mouse. In my opinion they're all similar, Omron, Kailh, Huano seem to be the more common ones. The ones on the Divina series are all Huano and you can buy them on HERE, yes they're all from China because that's where they are all made.

You'll need basic solder / desolder skills to replace them, it should only take you about 30 min -1 hour or so of watching YouTube videos. But I'd get something to practice with first. Most important is to learn how to desolder using Solder Sucker you can look up a ton of tutorials on Youtube. You can find a full solder kit on amazon for under $20 if you're in the US, it should have everything you need for a quick job. Link here

Once you know how to replace a simple mouse switch you'll save a lot of money by not having to buy another full mouse if a switch ever malfunctions, a lot of people just throw away their old mouse and buy a new one if the "clicks" somehow stop working but really it's most likely just the simple mouse switch they needed to replace.

It's super simple. If you have no interest in learning how to do it I would find someone with a soldering iron and have them do it. I bought this kit and all you would do it use a bit a solder to connect the two holes. A 20 second job.

Headlights (you only need one pair. the cutoff is outstanding)

Map lights, license plate lights, running tail lights, and side marker lights

Reverse lights

Front turn signals (accessible from under the vehicle - pin remover and 10mm socket needed)

Rear turn signals (requires tail light disassembly)

Turn signal resistors (required to prevent hyperflashing; soldering is recommended)

Brake lights (requires tail light disassembly)

Daytime-running lights (pliers needed)

Trunk light and dome light

awesome. thanks so much for all of your help! i think this is the last question i had. going to wait a couple days and then start ordering parts:

• 60%, layout, underglow, white LEDs, holtites, QMK
  
  
• ORG60: $22
  
  
• Aluminum case and plate: $68
  
  
• Genuine Cherry stabs: $10
  
  
• Kailh Box Red or Heavy Yellows: 21
  
  
• White LEDs: $6
  
  
• Holtites: $30. Opting for these over KBDfans' offerings
  
  
• DSA PBT keycaps: $57
  
  
• Soldering kit: $18
  
  
• Total: $230ish
  
  Soldering kit has 5 levels and will be used to solder LEDs and to help fit holtites in.

I've had my eye on this one

Would something like this be good or should I avoid it?

Soldering is an extremely valuable skill for this sport, is cheap to get into (this twenty dollar kit is more than sufficient), and will allow you to take advantage of cheap RC packs from HobbyKing and re-solder them yourself. It's definitely worth the mild investment in time, money, and effort.

I've got through about 8 keyboard builds/rebuilds with a generic $20 kit off Amazon and it's still holding up. Like, this'd be fine if you're not willing to drop $100 on something you may rarely use. Or most of the cheap adjustable ones on there.

Check out this guide, watch a couple soldering tutorials, switch soldering is some of the most basic stuff.

I haven't tested this one myself but it seems like this is some good bang for your buck:

https://www.amazon.com/ANBES-Soldering-Iron-Kit-Electronics/dp/B06XZ31W3M

I bought the soldering iron and the replacable tips on ebay, but they're coming from China so it'll be a while before I can vouch for them hope this helps a but.

This is the one I bought and so far it’s been great.
Check it

I don't really wanna post the code for ethical reasons (I started with some basic Adafruit code for bluetooth and turned it into a full OS). But here's a feature list:

1. Bluetooth, where time, battery percentage, and location are automagically updated by a companion app (a modified version of this app by Nordic Semiconductor.)
   
   
2. A stopwatch, accessed by pressing the left button.
   
   
3. A flashlight, turned on by one of the switches
   
   
4. A "dumb mode" in which only the time is displayed, accessed by flipping the bottom switch
   
   
5. In the future, notifications.
   
   I used u8g2's u8x8 mode for the screen drawing, as it requires no ram.
   
   ​
   
   Here are my parts:
   
   Voltage regulator (takes 8.4v down to 5v)
   
   22pF capacitors
   
   16MHz Oscillator (required for standalone board)
   
   DIYMall blue OLED
   
   Knockoff Arduino Uno
   
   Adafruit UART-Capable bluetooth module (makes sending data easier)
   
   Spare ATMega 328 processors
   
   Li-Ion" 9V" (8.4v) batteries (rechargeable)
   
   Switches
   
   9V battery clip
   
   Soldering Kit
   
   Elegoo prototyping PCBs
   
   Jumper wires (makes life easier & tidier)
   
   Elegoo Starter Kit (Comes with LEDs, resistors, and buttons)

Get yourself one of these soldering kits. It has everything you need to get started with soldering (though I recommend using solder wick instead of the pump for desoldering.) Just be sure to tin the tips with solder to prolong their life and help with heat transfer, and never blow on a fresh blob of solder to cool it; it give the joint air pockets which can corrode and degrade the joint over time.

Get some Bourns 500k push-pull pots (I recently bought a pair for $16 from an Amazon marketplace seller) for both controls. You could wire them up to coil split each pickup independently (assuming they have 4 conductors) as well as to bypass the controls entirely, have one pickup active all the time, etc. They're incredibly versatile.

Also, some new pickups and a Switchcraft jack will help immensely.

How do I compensate when I'm using a lower end soldering iron? I heard the temperature doesn't stay hot as consistently as better irons- so do I have to just wait longer in between soldering each joint?

I got this one for reference:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XZ31W3M/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I hear you, I OBSESSED over this for a few days. And I still got the first result on Amazon and wasted two days I could have been tinkering or doing anything else haha.

Here's the one I got.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XZ31W3M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looks like the price ticked up or I got a deal or something. Definitely get a helping hands or similar device to hold your projects, so incredibly helpful. Can find those at any hobby store or Amazon for cheap too.

I bought this ages ago, great kit. link here: amazon product page 19$

I had never soldered anything before either, but I got one just to mess with my printers. Being able to snip off and reattach connectors, or extend wires on fans or solder some LED strip lights or whatever is a nice thing to be able to do yourself. This kit is pretty much complete for basic soldering and has been great.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071P862G1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nPJ4AbJ71HA43

https://www.amazon.ca/Cooler-Master-Accessory-MasterBox-MasterCase/dp/B071P862G1/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=cooler+master+vertical+gpu+bracket&qid=1564761956&s=gateway&sprefix=cooler+master+vertical&sr=8-1. My gpu is a 3 slot. So I had to modify the bracket a bit

Cooler Master Accessory: Fits MasterBox, MasterCase, Maker, H500P Series Vertical Display VGA Holder Kit w/ Riser Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071P862G1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nmnZAbJ0W51KV

Here you go: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cooler-Master-MCA-U000R-KFVK00-Vertical-Graphic/dp/B071P862G1

I'd advise not to do that as you'll choke your GPU airflow do not vertically mount your GPU unless you're liquid cooling it or have adequate airflow space with something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071P862G1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZKWCDbYX8P1XV

Something like this may also be helpful then. It hasn't been out long and hopefully they will be restocking it. You also have this one which is more specific to Cooler Master cases but you could mod it to fit differently if you cut a side panel. Brackets just might make things easier for you.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071P862G1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_d3V6BbJ35MR2E

I was going to use this mount with the case.

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Accessory-MasterBox-MasterCase/dp/B071P862G1/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Vertical+Graphics+Card+Holder+Kit&qid=1558455693&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Thanks. There’s some things you need to know though.

Here’s the bracket I’m using- www.amazon.com/dp/B071P862G1

You’ll have to cut all of the slots out with some side cuts or something.

Here’s a vid to show exactly what to do- https://youtu.be/m2WaKMM0ZvM

No, like this

Used this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cooler-Master-Vertical-Graphics-Holder/dp/B071P862G1/ref=pd_rhf_gw_p_img_7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RKKGSY1N95AR0T2R5CFT

Had to cut 2 or 3 of the horizontal metal bars at the back of the case though.

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-MCA-U000R-KFVK00-MasterAccessory-Vertical/dp/B071P862G1/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504427153&sr=8-1&keywords=coolermaster+vertical+graphics+card

Cooler Master Accessory: Fits MasterBox, MasterCase, Maker, H500P Series Vertical Display VGA Holder Kit w/ Riser Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071P862G1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MbgLDbYGXK3F8

Generally it's indicated in the name, for example the wireless version of that motherboard is called "Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI)" Other motherboards will have "AC" in their name, lots of higher end boards also just come with it, but you will have to check the product pages on them.

> You mean I can't do mATX + vertical GPU + PCIE WiFi card, or can't do mATX + vertical GPU at all

If there's a built in mount to the case you can do it, but with risers like this one you can't do it with mATX or ATX.

I double checked compatibility and clearance, if you like the look of the Kraken you can get the x52 which is 240mm and top mount it. It will clear the memory with that motheboard. I don't particularly like the performance of top mounted 240mm AIOs as it's no better than the large air coolers I mentioned in my previous comment, but it's an option if you like the look.

You can buy fancy cases, but simple screw/art/tackle boxes are fine too. I've seen people pay hundreds for fancy bags and foam trays, when really, if something broke, it'd be waaay cheaper to just replace it. I have a big multi-section box for all my stuff, and a Star Wars lunchbox I use on the go, but different storage solutions work for different people!

http://www.amazon.com/Plano-Molding-5231-Double-Organizer/dp/B000HJ9514/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1406088407&sr=1-1
works like a charm!!

Got a plano 5231. It's nice for all of the tokens and whatnot. Can also fit a larger ship or two if you wanted.

It's this thing.

When I was bringing more then a couple lists:
Plano Molding 5231 Double Cover Stow N Go Organizer, Porsche Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HJ9514/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fBAKBb1S7HQ29

Nowadays I try to bring only one or two (oaky I can cram like 4 or 5 by stacking) and I use a Feldherr MINI PLUS Case for X-Wing Scum and Villainy, Star Ships and Slave 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VK4ZZD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OCAKBb16YEDT2

They were on sale for $18 a while back, my guess is they'll have new bags and foam out soon for 2e.

I am using this one: http://www.amazon.com/Plano-Molding-5231-Organizer-Porsche/dp/B000HJ9514/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413351375&sr=8-1&keywords=Xwing+case

It holds quite a bit. The top section has all the tokens and the bottom has a millennium falcon and a slave one, plus about 20 models. I could probably organize it to fit more though. I really like the all-in-one aspect. A solid choice I think. :)

The Plano 5231 is where I would start. I have several that I keep mine in (my collection is rather large). The top section will accommodate all the ship tokens, the gameplay tokens and templates & obstacles. The inside will easily fit all that you have along with the dials and damage deck with plenty of room to spare. I am storing complete conversion kit cardboard and a majority of the small ships in the boxes. Adding a bunch of large ships to the collection may present an issue eventually, but you can fit a YT-1300 + another large ship without issues. The Ghost does not fit in the box unfortunately.


Edit: The prices on Amazon for the red plano are not great right now though.



The HDX interlocking series is pretty great, too. The containers lock together making it easy to add to the collection as needed and they are easy to carry. These can accommodate the bigger ships like the Ghost, too. maybe go with this. The price is good, too.

​

Yep, got it from Amazon. It's $10

http://www.amazon.com/Plano-Molding-5231-Organizer-Porsche/dp/B000HJ9514

When you run out of room, upgrade to the Plano 5231. Perfect case for this game.

Edit: Here's a link to a post with the 5231
http://www.reddit.com/r/XWingTMG/comments/1bimbb/wish_i_had_thought_of_this_when_i_got_my_other/

And the case itself
http://www.amazon.com/Plano-Molding-5231-Double-Organizer/dp/B000HJ9514/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368050052&sr=8-1&keywords=plano+5231

The one I'm thinking of was much bigger as he had done away with the box completely. More like THIS. Some of the pics in the product link are gaming related...

Nice one mate. They should have those Plano's on Amazon for $25. Just picked up 2 clearance at Kmart for $7.50 though, so try your local one if you have one.


Also, nice stuff.

Consider this as it's a little smaller and should hold ~10 ships.
http://smile.amazon.com/Plano-Molding-5231-Organizer-Porsche/dp/B000HJ9514/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1425944950&sr=8-17&keywords=plano+box

Try the Plano 5231. Amazon just had them on sale for $6.99, but I'm not sure if that's still active.

Edit: Just checked. They're now $9.99 on Prime.

I use single-sided Plano Stow-n-Go Organizers to store all my electronics parts.

Check out this post:
https://www.reddit.com/r/XWingTMG/comments/3qf3ni/storage_solutions_for_the_wiki/?ref=share&ref_source=link



I use a tackle box with Willli's Micro hangers:
http://www.sirwillibald.com/

These Plano boxes are very common (and on clearance): https://amzn.com/B000HJ9514

If you are trying to free up sticky, the best thing I have found is PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E. Be sure to have a pair of rubber gloves and lots of ventilation. Be very careful not to let this get on plastic. I'd spray a little bit down where the typebar goes into the element and work the key until it is smooth up and down. Wipe off the excess and let it air out for a day or so. You should be good to go. A little goes a long way. This has freed every sticky machine I've ever dealt with. Regarding lubrication, I guess I'd say the lighter the machine oil the better - http://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Bearings-EXTRA-LONG-synthetic-movements/dp/B00CD814RA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1396799365&sr=8-4&keywords=clock+oil+kit

My first job as a mechanic was working on mostly pre-'86 cars and trucks. My boss handed me a can of this awesome stuff called PB Blaster and since then, I always give rusty bolts a good soaking in it before making attempt. I have never broken a bolt off since and all I work on are '60's and '70s Mopars and frequent junkyards. I hope this helps

Make sure you are using a screw driver where the head fits nicely into the screw. If you use one that doesn't fit well it will be much more likely to strip it.

Use pb blaster. WD40 is junk.

Another thing you can do is to put the screw driver into the screw and tap it with a hammer. The idea is to break loose rust or other stuff holding the screw in place.

These 2 things are from years of fixing cars. the other thing I do with cars is to apply heat. Usually with a propane torch. This expands the metal and breaks any rust holding it in place. but I have a feeling that it wouldn't work well with nintendo's plastic case. ha

https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-11-Ounces/dp/B000I2079E

https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-11-Ounces/dp/B000I2079E

https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E

This is your friend on vehicles with rust. There's a few variants of this, but this is on the the better more available ones, that isn't stupid expensive

PB B'laster. Cheaper than WD-40. Its got a hell of a warning label on it so you know it's good. Not to be used by pregnant women.

http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E

Its a pretty good penetrating lubricant. you can find it pretty much anywhere. its what I have on my shelf at home, but your choice of penetrating lubricant would probably be just fine.

The hood latches tend to seize up over time, especially if you don't lubricate them occasionally. Had the same problem on my Mk5 Jetta. If it's seized and not a broken cable, you can generally fix it pretty easily.

You need three things: a small screwdriver, a can of lightweight break-free lube like Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster penetrating oil, and a can of spray lithium lube.

Pop the safety latch and prop the hood. Locate the hood latch assembly. Using the precision tube on the spray lube, saturate the inside of the latch and latch plate with the penetrating oil (try to keep overspray from rubber parts). Let sit for 30 seconds or so, and then press on the open side of the latch with the screwdriver until the latch plate releases and locks. Pull the hood release in the cabin to reset. Repeat several times until the latch snaps closed freely when you press on it with the screwdriver. Respray with penetrator if necessary.

Use a shop towel to mop up as much penetrating oil as you can and spray the entire inside of the latch assembly with as much spray lithium as it will hold. Work the mechanism a few more times to get it into the pivot and latch plate as much as possible. Re-saturate with lithium grease and button up.

Every time you change your oil, you should relubricate the hood latch with spray lithium to keep this from happening.

EDIT: Linkies.

or PB blaster.

Well, it beats the basin wrench that many articles recommend. Apply some PB Blaster and go out for lunch before returning and applying torque. It really is amazing how suddenly the nut comes loose. Be careful not to spill it, as it's about as aggressive as paint remover.

still just a spork

I have this one.

I use this for lunch every day. It's superb.

Personally, I usually have a titanium spork, chopsticks (you could find similar ones cheaper) and I usually have a knife of some sort on me (like a swiss army knife or something). in case I need to cut up something a little tougher than the spork could handle.

Titanium is nice because it's super light and antibacterial. If you look in an outdoor store you'll find lots of lightweight options that should be easy to carry/store in your car.

Based on my experience with the NeoAir Xtherm, I'd be a bit sketched out about using a NeoAir Xtherm or Xlite for a lengthy thru-hike. Mine started to leak air significantly after only a handful of uses, in such a way that it was impossible for me to repair it (even after getting out of the field). Fortunately, Cascade Designs replaced it for free, but mine is now reserved only for the trips that I really need that added warmth on to keep the wear and tear of the pad to a minimum. Perhaps someone who has carried a NeoAir on a thru-hike (or a lengthy section hike) can chime in, but again, I'd be hesitant to carry one myself on a longer trip.

I agree with /u/AussieEquiv that a 30 degree bag may or may not be sufficient, depending on the timing of your thru especially. Some details on when you plan to depart would be helpful, but I suspect in any case that you might want to consider at least carrying a liner- that way you can send it home once things have warmed up enough that you won't need it. Based on my experiences hiking Georgia in early spring, a 30 degree bag by itself would be a bit cold on at least some nights until some time in April. And even if you start in GA late, you may not finish in ME until late Summer/early Autumn, and accordingly you may still find that the 30 degree bag isn't warm enough in the northeast towards the end of your hike.

Similarly, I also agree with the comment about a thermal top in addition to the leggings. You'll likely be glad to have a full set of long underwear on at least some nights early into your thru-hike. I see you're planning on getting a light puffy which is good, but a light thermal top will be more comfortable for sleeping in.

And again, on another similar note, I would at least consider a hat liner and glove liners for occasional cold weather as well.

And yes, definitely ditch the town clothes (especially since they weigh nearly a pound). A spare t-shirt, underwear, and socks are OK, but you can otherwise just your cleanest hiking clothes (even if that includes your rain gear) while the rest are in the laundry.

I might suggest also carrying a pair of pants in addition to shorts- perhaps look into zipoff/convertible pants to keep weight down. You'll be glad to have pants on colder days, when hiking in grassy areas with ticks, etc.

Was the decision not to carry rain pants a conscious one? If so, what was the rationale behind it? Are you OK with soaking wet pants/shorts at the end of the day (and having to put those same soaking wet pants/shorts on the next morning)? I don't always bother with putting on rain gear myself when the weather is particularly warm (on hot and humid days you sweat just as much under it as you would get wet from the rain without it), but for a longer hike I think it's probably a good idea to have a full rain suit. You will have some cold, rainy days during which I think you'd be glad to have rain pants during in addition to a jacket.

I think if you have a spork with shallow fork tongs it will be OK. Something like the Sea to Summit Titanium Utensil Spork will be fine. Or you might look at the Light My Fire Titanium Spork, which has a fork/knife combo at the opposite end of the spoon (I'm a huge fan of this one, personally).

I hope this is helpful!

Solar chargers are great for a renewable source of energy when you're not certain you'll be near any outlets soon, their drawbacks are their weight and durability, though some new models are decent on both accounts.

​

I do; I have a plastic bag with some money in small to large bills and copies of my birth certificate, license, health insurance, and passport. This is in case I'm not at home, where my actual documents are all in my emergency binder.

​

Plastic sporks? Depending on the brand they may get brittle in the cold. My preferred utensil is the Light My Fire Titanium Spork, it's super light and durable.

​

I recommend nitrile for medical reasons, but I was talking more along the lines of work gloves.

​

Good idea! If I needed glasses I'd be super paranoid about not having a spare pair. One of the things that's impacted me lately are the stories from the Californian wild fires. There are a lot of first hand accounts about dealing with the smoke and how essential protecting your lungs and eyes is.

I have a few in titanium, they're actually very nice to use camping or at home.

I bought one of these http://www.amazon.com/Light-My-Fire-Titanium-Spork/dp/B001E7S5BO I really like it. It's not uncomfortable to use unless you use a death grip to hold it.

I prefer the super spork from Light My Fire. It's actually double ended, instead of the real combo utensil.

Sporks are fun ideas, but then you realize you have a fork with stubby tines, and a spoon with slots in it. The super spork isn't ideal, but it is better. The titanium model also fixes the primary design flaw of the (lighter and cheaper) plastic version, which is the slight fragility of the middle section.

I use this for a utensil http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E7S5BO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this for a bowl/plate http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007MJ9TGS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2KO70LRROUK7U&coliid=I245GJ6QHYV8H1

Do you mean, $10 light my fire spork.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001E7S5BO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484317950&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=light+my+fire+titanium+spork&dpPl=1&dpID=31EEJr9H3gL&ref=plSrch

Here you go (on mobile so I can't link well): http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001E7S5BO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1405896580&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Kuromaku-Ceramic-Whetstone-Medium-Grit/dp/B001TPFT0G

frequently bought together area brings up a set of 1000,5000, & 8000 grit kuromaku for $167.12!

So there is a thing that hasn't been made clear, making grips for his gun would require carving chisels and if he is already making them then he already has some stuff. You mentioned a Mortising chisel which is for a completely unrelated task. Does he have carving chisels? Since you are looking at Mortising Chisels, does he already have bench chisles? If he is starting and doesn't have bench planes Narex are a good set to start with, if he was looking at Mortising chisels again Narex is a great choice. Unless Lee Valley is running free shipping buy them from highland woodworking if you are not in Canada.

One thing before you do that you should look to see if he has sharpening stones. If he doesn't get him a 8000 and a 1000, that would be about 100 dollars and it will set him up for at least 10 years worth of use. I'm ignoring coursers stones they can be supplemented with course sand paper for the time being.

Cool, thanks! Seems like the stuff labeled Shapton Pro specifically has been discontinued due to some change in logistics with distributors. Is this the current equivalent?

Fibrox 8” chef knife:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000638D32

Shapton 1k Sharpening Stone: Ha No Kuromaku Ceramic Whetstone:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TPFT0G

Lapping stone (to flatten your whetstone after it needs leveling from use...you won’t need this right now and can make do without):
Atoma Diamond Sharpener Medium -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0031KNR2O

Here’s the utility knife version of the larger knife, one of my personal favorites, same thing but 5” instead of 8” : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QCLEFC

The fibrox has relatively soft steel compared to most Japanese styles so it is a more forgiving blade and won’t chip. This also means you can use a honing rod between uses to maintain its edge and not have to sharpen as often.

https://www.amazon.com/Sk11-sided-Diamond-Whetstone-150-600/dp/B003EIE8LC

​

https://www.amazon.com/Kuromaku-Ceramic-Whetstone-Medium-Grit/dp/B001TPFT0G

I don't think a $30 knife would be a significant upgrade once you've sharpened yours. And learning to hone your knives will serve you well no matter what you get in the end. There are lots of devices you can get with less of a learning curve, but for the ultimate flexibility it's worth the time to learn how to use a waterstone as it's inexpensive compared to sharpening systems that can come close in quality and takes off less metal (and thus helps your knives last longer) + does a better job compared to the usual pull-through thingies you see.

​

I'd suggest 1000 grit to start as enough to help you maintain your knife for quite a while. This Shapton is $40 but worth the extra $10 over the commonly recommended King (and other cheaper whetstones) becauase:

• you don't have to soak it
  
• it cuts faster so it'll be less frustrating (though it'll still take you a while initially because your knife is so dull)
  
• it takes longer to get "dished" (low in the middle) and need flattening with eg. some wetdry sandpaper on a piece of glass or other reliably flat surface. Which also means it'll last much longer.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Kuromaku-Ceramic-Whetstone-Medium-Grit/dp/B001TPFT0G
  
  ​
  
  It'll let you keep your knife sharp for years. Probably decades. So worth getting a good one 'cause you're stuck with it a long time. Now you can make it sharper with more stones at higher grits, or sharpen faster with some at lower, but ultimately taking it really high isn't worth it unless you have a harder steel---the edge will wear out rapidly and you'll just need to sharpen it again. If you want, you can make a $1 knife just ridiculously sharp, but it won't stay that way:
  
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0P6klz6BTek

King Deluxe 1K comes in at $22, and for a knife like either of the ones I suggested will be all you really need. If you can save more, the Shapton Ha No Kuromaku is a common recommendation.

​

Also notice you asked in another comment about the difference between certain likes of knives. Your wording was a bit odd but I assume you are asking about the difference between the forged and the stamped lines? I can't speak about the Henkels knives, but Wusthof uses fewer steps when heat treating their stamped knives. This leaves them at around 56HRC instead of the 58HRC that their forged knives are hardened to. For a $35-$40 knife this isn't all that bad, but if you were looking at the Wusthof Gourmet line it's kind of silly.

​

Edit: Knife hardness is actually a really complicated subject. There are far to many variables for me to explain here (partly because I'm not the most knowledgeable about all of them) but try not to get to caught up in it just yet. Here are three categories for you: Really hard knives (Japanese mostly), not so hard knives (European mostly), junk that looks like knives/costs more than makes sense (things that put most of the budget into marketing or aesthetics)

It will work but it is very coarse. It will sharpen your knife but it will remove a lot of metal. The knife's edge will also be quite unrefined and so you will probably want to buy a higher grit stone as well. I would recommend this medium grit stone https://www.amazon.com/Kuromaku-Ceramic-Whetstone-Medium-Grit/dp/B001TPFT0G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1536801668&sr=8-2&keywords=shapton+kuromaku. If you only have western knives you don't need anything more. Also ignore the guy telling you to watch Burrfection videos, they're terrible. If you want a video guide on how to sharpen your knife Japanese Knife Imports has a really good series of videos on youtube

All the crappy farm tables and diy projects on r/woodworking a your post gets removed, wtf.

I have a rikon half speed 1850 rpm 8" grinder with a 80 grit CBN cubic boron nitride wheel and a veritas tool rest. Shapton ceramic 320, 1000, 5000, 12000 stones. A 36"x6" 3 cm thick piece of granite and use adhesive backed sandpaper rolls. I wax the granite to allow the paper to come off the granite easily.

grinder

cbn wheel


tool rest

stones

320 g

1000 g

5000 g

12000

sand paper

I actually don't really care of the finer dmt diamond stones or the ez lap stones. I gave my ezlaps to a friend and bought the combo dmts.

I use the course on the duo sharp course/extra course dmt

And a 1000 grit shapton

Finally a strop with the green compound

Blade is razer sharp in < 30s if there's no major nicks in the blade. Major nicks mean going to the extra course and grinding it out for a few minutes first.

Every other system I tried just didn't work as well or as fast. The shapton just seems so much faster than the finer diamond stones.

The one you linked is optimized for harder knives than you probably own. It will work on softer steels, but a 1000 grit shapton is probably the better choice for most knives.

The 1k/6k king stone people are suggesting is pretty mediocre, if you can afford better skip it. You don't need 6k on most knives

1. Your keys should not take up a whole goddam pocket.
   
   B) Leatherman Squirt PS4, motherfucker (or the Leatherman Style PS if you fly often like me)
   
   Slim wallet and keys w/ multitool in left pocket, cellphone in right pocket. Accomplishes the same thing without looking like a NEET.

Leatherman style CS is what I carry. Fairly solid and very light weight. They also make the style ps which has pliers and the style, which is an even smaller tool. Also as others suggest, the squirt ps4 seems like a solid choice.

This Leatherman Keychain. Blister packs will never haunt you or your friends again.

This might be a little small, but I just picked up a Leatherman Style PS for my keychain and I love it so far. It's replaced my much larger Leatherman Charge as part of my EDC since I pretty much only used the pliers and scissors.

So a few days ago I took a shot at trying a few of the 'cheap' $30 shoulder bags on Amazon. I ordered a bunch and this was the one that remained after a few hours of testing all of them. It holds absolutely everything despite being such a small bag (13.9" Height, 10.5" Width, 4.1" Depth). The pockets make the most sense when compared to competitors. Here is my carry list with some updates that show its full versatility (especially as a personal item when flying). Also, bag link here.

• MITB Minimalistic Wallet, Leather
  
  
• Galaxy S7 with Spigen Thin Fit Case
  
  
• Dell XPS 13, Developer Edition inside an AmazonBasics 11.6" Neoprene Sleeve
  
  
• Samsung Galaxy Tablet S2
  
  
• Nintendo Switch inside Tomtoc semi-hard case
  
  
• Innergie 45W USB type C Power Adapter
  
  
• Innergie USB-C (Female) to Micro USB (Male) Cable)
  
  
• JLab J5M Earbuds
  
  
• JBL E25BT Earbuds
  
  
• 8BitDo SN30 Controller with Case and Smartphone Clip
  
  
• TEAM 64GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive
  
  
• Schottenstein Edition Interlinear Siddur - Weekday Pocket Size
  
  
• Tefillin (Prayer Phylacteries)
  
  
• Talit (Prayer Shawl)
  
  
• Kershaw Clash
  
  
• Zippo Matte Black Lighter
  
  
• Leatherman Style PS
  
  
• Infaray LED Flashlight
  
  
• Kikkerland Multi-Screwdriver
  
  
• Moleskine
  
  
• Uniball Sygno
  
  
• Fischer Space Pen
  
  
• Signo Uniball
  
  
• Sharpie
  
  
• Jergens
  
  
• Blistex
  
  Edit: Also the water bottle holder holds either my Oakley or Ray-Ban sunglasses.

I've lurked here for a while and thought I should make my first post.

I'm also looking for a better wallet similar to mine. I've checked out the Hitch and Timber Card Caddy, but can't justify the price. Any recommendations?

Any other feedback is also welcome :)

Small multi-tools (Pick one and goes in wallet front pocket)

• Vicrorinox classic SD
  
• Leatherman Style PS
  
  Flashlight (Goes in wallet's front pocket)
  
  
• Glaree Key-chain Flashlight
  
  Pens (Pick one)
  
  
• Pilot Metropolitan Fountain Pen
  
  
• Zebra F-301 Compact
  
  Wallet
  
  
• Cheap wallet from amazon that holds my flashlight and multitool
  
  Watch
  
  
• LG Watch Urbane
  
  Earbuds
  
  
• Symphonized NRG 2.0 Earbuds
  
  Phone (Had to Badly Photoshop it into the pic)
  
  
• Moto X Pure Edition with wood back and blue accents and a Poetic Affinity case
  
  On key-chain
  
  
• Chinese Suspension Clip with organizer
  
• Nite-Ize DoohicKey
  
• Sandisk Ultra Flair 64GB
  
• Truck/House keys
  
  Knives (Just my favorites. I usually just carry whatever knife I'm feeling that day)
  
  
• Ganzo/Firebird F7542
  
  
• CRKT Swindle
  
  
• Ontario RAT II
  
  
  
  Edit: not sure why photo uploaded with potato quality
  
  

Leatherman PS

https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Style-PS-Multi-Tool-Black/dp/B0058RX9NU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486276573&sr=8-1&keywords=tsa+leatherman

Gerber Dime Travel Bladeless Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TOJCDM6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_33A-BbRVFP3NP


LEATHERMAN - Style PS Multitool, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058RX9NU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_k3A-BbGAB4JQ5

Knife - CRKT squid $17.99

Wallet - Recycled firefighter $19.00

Light - ThruNite T01 $9.95

Multitool - Leatherman Style PS $24.95

Pen - Fischer space pen bullet $19.67

Notebook- Rite in the rain $5.98

Lighter - bic mini $1 gas station

Total $98.54

Hard mode just get the knife wallet and light

this is a great version that fits on a keychain. I use it daily.

How about the Leatherman Style PS? Super small compact pliers/multi tool without a knife on board. Check it for yourself.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058RX9NU/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_wzCbsb1YP156Y

> Multi-tool always seem too heavy for what they offer

• Leatherman Style PS @ 44 grams
  
• Leatherman Style CS @ 44 grams
  
• Leatherman Skeletool @ 141 grams (5 ounces)
  
• Leatherman Skeletool CX @ 141 grams (5 ounces).
  
  That's not heavy if you ask me. I think the Style is perfect for every-day on-person EDC, and the Skeletool for either on-person or in an EDC bag. The Skeletool is missing some features compared to a full-up Charge TTi (8 ounces) or similar, but for an EDC, it's better than not carrrying a multitool at all.

https://www.amazon.com/Escolite-Flashlight-Ultraviolet-Blacklight-Detector/dp/B008133KB4/ref=pd_cp_469_3?pd_rd_w=KZIH3&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=KN64YYMJ1NE18KP2M2CM&pd_rd_r=d53cd7f6-a4de-11e9-910c-738a5becb10e&pd_rd_wg=2dknW&pd_rd_i=B008133KB4&psc=1&refRID=KN64YYMJ1NE18KP2M2CM This is a good UV light for GITD Pops.

There are many skin issues that could cause discoloration. One indication of vitiligo would be that it glows under a black light, like the hands in this image.

I'm not an expert (AKA dermatologist) but I know vitiligo tends to start around joints and the face. It usually spreads from there to the rest of your body.

However, it could start elsewhere but the fact that these spots on your back are the first ones you're noticing makes me think it's less likely that it's vitiligo, though it's still possible.

Best thing you can do (aside from seeing a doctor) is get yourself a black light (Amazon has some small handheld ones) and a mirror.

Turn out the lights, get naked and shine the black light over your body slowly as you look for spots that glow. If it's vitiligo, you'll see it glow and look very different than the surrounding skin. You'll also likely find other areas of your skin that hasn't fully lost pigment due to vitiligo which will also glow. They may even be tiny spots that look like a bunch of freckles. I don't think vitiligo is the only skin issue that glows but if it doesn't glow at least you know it's not vitiligo.

I'm saying to get completely naked because vitiligo can effect genitalia as well. Make sure you look around there.

Of course, if you have healthcare options, it's best to see a dermatologist. Vitiligo can be treated. If you catch it early, such as now with only a few spots, treatment can be very easy and fast. Treatment for a couple of small spots may only require a few months of using a cream and a little light treatment.

If it's something else, you also want to catch it early, so that you can start any possible treatment.

Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008133KB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GL2cAbRAKRRB9 works really well and isn’t too expensive.

Do you use a UV flashlight? Those are awesome if not. I bought a badass one on Amazon that really helps compared to the one I had before that I got at Circle K.

I've tried anything from sprays, to a screwdriver duct-taped to a stick. I find just using a regular stick can get in the rocks pretty well and handle it. Having the powerful flashlight helps too because you can see them from across the yard.

Also, having someone spray for scorpions monthly does wonders. When I moved in my house, I could easily get 5-10 per night. I've had my house sprayed ever since then, and I haven't seen one in two years.

Yeah, I always bring a UV flashlight with me for glow rounds. Definitely does depend on the plastic type/color how much it glows, but with the right discs it makes finding your discs at night a non-issue. You can even sometimes find some others that were lost during the day that were well hidden, but glow at night. I use this one, for $10 it works great.

Nice. I have this one and it does nothing for my POP. Works wonders on my other GITD POPs though.

i'd change the myq for the gocontrol linear https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469114577&sr=8-1&keywords=go+linear

By "GoControl," I think you mean this? GoControl sells several Z-Wave accessories that are actually just rebadges of Linear, not just the garage door openers. :)

I have two of those, those mine are the "Iris" branded ones from Lowes (again, same manufacturer - Linear). They look like this in the app. Tap the green icon, they open and the icon turns yellow. Tap the yellow icon, they close and turn green. They can be controlled by SmartThings monitoring, CoRE, etc. There's actually a "Door Opener" device type that they register as.

Does that answer your question?

If you want something to work with the Wink Hub, you can go with a GoControl Z-Wave Add-on. https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU You can add it to any garage door you'd like. I installed mine, using a SmartThings hub, and it seems to work pretty well.

GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener Remote Controller, Small, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qQH4BbHC7CQTS

I install one of these every week or so. They work really well for modern openers.

Amazon had the garage door sensor but its now unavailable, they are the only seller currently, but we will have it available on Amazon Prime in a couple weeks. We have a few units coming in today so once we get the listing complete, it will be available there in our store.

We will have the other items as well, we ordered yesterday but it may be a week or two for them to get in, Linear is pretty slow shipping.

I have the GoControl for my 2 garage doors. It works great and most importantly integrates with hubs and IFTTT (i prefer Stringify though). The MyQ does not release there API to work with other services from what I here. I use a Wink and story around the block is you can't even make Robots using the MyQ. However, 20 dollars is a steal esp. compared to 80.

Sorry for being so late, but if you have Z-Wave in your automation already, then Z-Wave garage door openers are under $100, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491329589&sr=8-1&keywords=ZWave+garage+door+opener. Is the one I have, it has sensors that tell you if it is open or closed, and then you can use your phone (via z-wave controller) to close/open it. Works well for me. With my z-wave controller (Vera), I have it setup to notify me if I am not home and the door is opened, or left open.

There is also various WiFi options, which also allow you to control it, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Chamberlain-MYQ-G0201-MyQ-Garage-Controls-Smartphone/dp/B00EAD65UW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491329677&sr=8-1&keywords=wifi+garage+door+opener. No personal experience with those, but if they support your opener, are probably a good option.

If DIY is more your thing, a Arduino and a simple switch on the track somewhere would work for notifying if it is open.

My cheap/old garage door opener (Genie screw drive) has a bunch of exposed screw terminals for switches. One terminal opens/closes the door, one terminal toggles the light. They will work with any pushbutton switch, so anything that could drive a relay would work.

The door position sensors are just open/closed switches as well, so it would be really easy to wire it to anything that has a few i/o pins.

... so yeah anyway just get something like this and check the compatibility list:
http://www.amazon.com/Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Garage-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU

All good man. There is this also. GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener Remote Controller, Small, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FxyTzb8594QSS

Good luck either way

Amazon has not allowed Alexa to open/close doors or to unlock doors due to safety and security concerns. There are some workarounds out there.

I use the linear zwave garage door opener:
https://amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU

There is a custom device handler made for it on SmartThings that allows you to open and close it with alexa. However, I have tell alexa to turn it on (open) or off (close). It does not support Alexa telling me the status of the door. I still have to use the Smartthings app for that.

Hi Mike! There used to be a 3rd-party device handler for Chamberlain MyQ openers, but it seems that it has been discontinued: https://community.smartthings.com/t/discontinuation-of-myq-connect-community-smartapp/47183

Another option is to use the GoControl unit that connects to your existing garage door opener: https://smile.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU. It has native integration with ST as well as options for third party device handlers that extend the functionality. The price on Amazon is a bit high right now, but I've seen it around $65 in the past. If you're not in any hurry, use camelcamelcamel.com to track the Amazon price and notify you when it decreases or hits a target price you configure.

I can't help much with the camera portion of your question, but I'm interested to see what others have to say as well. This is something I'm still deciding on also.

Ahhhh, I see. So to integrate with Wink I would neither either this...

http://www.wink.com/products/chamberlain-myq-garage-door-controller/

Or one of these?

https://smile.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479394170&sr=8-3&keywords=go+control

I got the Linear Garage Door Opener.

Works well. Plugs in easily to existing garage door opener.

Be very careful with it though. I never include closing it in automations in fear of it closing down on a kid or pet.

It is also an IoT device that if hacked, it will allow bad guys to get in your garage.

I'd think those would both work (haven't used them), but given Wink recognizes them as garage door openers they will limit operations that let you schedule/trigger door openings.

However, since you have a MyQ opener, I wouldn't get the Chamberlain controller you linked; that's to convert non MyQ doors to MyQ. Your current opener already has MyQ, so if you go the Chamberlain/Liftmaster route, just get the Internet gateway others have listed.

... nor the GoControl. Those both have the door sensor that detects if door it open or closed; your MyQ opener already has that intelligence.

If I wasn't clear (or confused you), the Liftmaster/Chamberlain Internet gateway WILL integrate with Wink; Chambrlain/Liftmaster and Wink just place restrictions on what you can do with it security-wise. I think Wink places those restrictions on most, if not all devices it recognizes as a door opener. Alexa does, at least.

The MIMOlite, I've heard, will get you around that, because Wink doesn't know what it's actually controlling.

... but the MIMOlite, alone, doesn't provide a sensor to tell you if the garage is currently open or closed. A ZWAVE sensor designed to detect angular changes, such as this, would work (but I don't know if that one is supported by Wink)

So you're saying if I buy the MyQ Garage Door Opener for my new house, I can return this?

This is the fan I use and this is the timer it runs on also.

You don't need a "night light", you want your snake to have darkness at night. Light and heat should be from two separate sources, and make sure your heat source is always controlled by a thermostat. If your room does not receive ambient lighting from a window, etc. you can use something as simple as a clamp lamp with an led light bulb screwed into it, plugged into an outlet timer. As long as the light is not overly bright (grow lights or aquarium fixtures can be too bright) and your snake has a place(s) to seek shelter this will work fine.

There grow lights I purchased on Amazon. I have a timer set up to give them more light during the winter months.

Yeah, so most cannabis plants , except for autoflowers, are what’s called “photo-period” where their growth is determined by the light schedule, so we basically have to recreate natural patterns of sunlight.

During the first stage , Vegetative stage, you want to run your lights on 18 hours, off 6. During this phase, you train your plant to grow the way you want it to. See: Low-Stress Training, Supercropping, Mainlining, etc. the plant does not create flowers during this stage. I always flip my plants into flower mode whenever my plants are a little under half the size I want them to grow to, as they can double in size or more during flower.

To put your plants into flower mode, you just switch the light schedule to 12 hours on, 12 hours off. Flowering times vary based on strain, but average is about 8-9 weeks of flower before harvest.

You can get a digital timer for your lights on amazon for cheap. This is what I use in all of my tents.

So I don’t know exactly how much I’ve spent on my beardie since he was given to me with almost everything I needed to care for him, but I can give you the basics.

First off, for the flooring you can use paper towels to start, or contact cabinet paper that can be found at a dollar tree. I don’t think tile is that expensive, but if you’re unable to get some at the moment those work just fine. I also suggest covering the back and sides of the tank so the beardie doesn’t see its reflection and get stressed

You’ll need at least one hide on the cooler side, which can be made from something as simple as a small cardboard box with a hole cut in it or some bricks that are arranged into a cave-like hide

A basking area can be made from bricks purchased at Lowe’s or Home Depot, or if you choose to use any driftwood/rocks you find just make sure you clean them properly

Calcium powder is also extremely important to help your beardie not develop MBD. I’m part of a Facebook bearded dragon group that suggests this brand sprinkled over greens/bugs three times a week: https://www.chewy.com/repashy-superfoods-calcium-plus/dp/166276 I poke some holes in the paper lid with a toothpick to create a shaker-type deal so I’m not wasting any calcium

I think one of the most expensive parts is the UVB light since they can get pretty pricey, and since they need to be changed every six months. Here’s an 18”, along with a fixture that could be used, but obviously with a longer tank you’ll need a longer size: https://www.chewy.com/zoo-med-t8-reptisun-100-uvb/dp/126590 https://www.amazon.com/GE-Fluorescent-Included-Workbench-16466/dp/B000HJ75PW again, I usually stay away from reptile brands for things such as fixtures because the cheaper version works better and lasts longer. The T8 bulb needs to be hooked into the tank, which I use zip ties to the lid but Velcro to the side also works, as long as it’s 12” away from the basking area

Heat lamp with dimmer: https://www.chewy.com/flukers-clamp-lamp-dimmer-85-in/dp/129140

Pack of 90w flood lights (make sure they’re halogen, not LED): https://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-90-Watt-PAR38-Halogen-Indoor-Outdoor-Flood-Light-Bulb-2-Pack-466268/205541724

Digital temp gun: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY

Light timer for both lights: https://www.amazon.com/Century-Heavy-Digital-Programmable-Timer/dp/B00MVF16JG

Vet bills and fecal tests can be pricey as well, depending on where you live. My last vet appointment with mine, which did include a test for parasites, cost around $300

While I don’t know how much I’ve spent on my beardie, I can safely estimate it’s $700+, give or take a bit. One of the most expensive is buying the greens and bugs for him. I’m growing a garden to feed him but since it’s not ready yet, I have to constantly buy him collards, turnip and mustard greens, along with various fruits and veggies which can go bad very quickly. I’m in the process of looking into buying his superworms online where you can get a better deal, but at the moment I’m paying 100 for $10 at my local exotic pet shop, which he goes through quickly.

I don’t know how old you are, but if you say you’re not old enough to properly take care of a reptile I would wait a few years or so until you get another. Bearded dragons, while more of a beginner reptile than others, still require a lot of time and effort to make sure they stay healthy. I would recommend doing a lot research throughout the next few months (look at multiple sources, don’t just listen to people at a pet store because often they don’t know what they’re talking about), and if possible, perhaps slowly start gathering the needed supplies in order to properly care for one

I hope I covered everything since reddit refreshed and deleted my first response before I finished, but if you have any more questions you can always message me (:

I use these programmable timers for my iguana and turtle lamps. Each timer can control 2 devices and support 8 daily on/off cycles. Great for fish tanks, too FYI.

You don't need to spend a lot of money to accomplish what you want. Just get as many of these cheap basic timers as you need, one per schedule. Say you want your lights on at certain times but everything else on at a different time, all you need is 2 of these, and plug in a cheap power strip to the timer so you can hook up as many appliances as you need to the timer. Not sure why you would even consider spending so much on just a timer...

https://amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVF16JG

Your previous post mentioned that this started after day light savings time. Have you considered just putting her to bed at her regular (before the time change) time? Then maybe adjusting bed time by 5 or 10 minutes every night to make it an easier adjustment for her?

Also, I let my kids stay up as late as they want but only if they are in their bed reading. This goes for all three of them (11, 7, and 2.5) and has always worked wonders for keeping them in the bed. They usually fall asleep on their own within 30 minutes or so. We have these lights strung up in the toddlers room on a switch timer so they automatically turn on at bedtime and off 30 min later. Gives him enough light to look through his book (his current favorite is "Too Many Carrots") and we don't have to risk waking him up to turn them off later. The 7 year old has a cute cat shaped silicone light, which she adores, and the 11 year old uses a head lamp from our camping gear.

i use those basic ass dial timers , i think you can get one for like 10 $ mine has tabs you push in / pull out and can be set for either on/off every 15 mins. .

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVFF59S?psc=1

awesome, thank you! would a timer like this work? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVFF59S/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00MVFF59S&pd_rd_wg=KBcJh&pd_rd_r=0JGTM74FGMQ0YW91K08Q&pd_rd_w=5pAEd

I've been taking ice baths for a bit now using plastic water bottles as reuseable ice cubes while filling the tub daily. I have a nice jacuzzi tub available most of the time that is great, but lugging the ice bottles around (my tub is on the 2nd floor, and my freezer is on the 1st floor) and having to re-freeze them every day can be a PITA - as well as having to use new water each day instead of the ability to recycle. My next solution is a chest freezer, which I intend to set up as soon as I am able.

A few tips from my research:

1. Get one big/wide enough for you to fit in comfortably up to and including your shoulders. Checking craiglist for your area is a good starting point for a discounted price. Depending on your size, 10-15 cu ft is a good range to consider.
   
2. Some have a handy shelf inside that can act as a bench; if yours does, you may desire a foam seat pad to put on top to make it slightly softer.
   
3. You can put it on a wall timer (that cycles on/off), then have it run for ~2-4 hours/day to keep the rough temp you desire, or a more accurate option is to get a Outlet Temp Controller (which is my choice method) that will auto on/off for you based on an exact preset water temperature. I enjnoy the idea of setting the tub to a custom temp, based on the length of time I intend to use it as well as the ability to increase cold levels of time.
   
4. When you first fill it with water and want to cool it, either cycle it on/off over multiple days or put a BUNCH of ice in with it - as cooling a lot of water isn't the intended purpose and this will mitigate the strain on the motor cooling system.
   
5. Seal up the inside seams with some silicone sealant (like stuff used for a bath tub), or line the inside with a pool liner for a thicker, reinforced watertight space.
   
6. The cool temp will naturally keep the water cleaner, though using H2O2 is a good way to elongate the life of the water even more. You can get ~5% at most pharmacies, or ~30% at farm supply stores that requires much less.

Couldn't you use a normal time-dependent timer between the inkbird and your kegerator? That way your kegerator will only kick on during the times you tell it to.

Edit: Not that easy. Power needs to be supplied 24/7.

Double Edit: They make ones with a battery back up.

I would so it on low for 6 hours. If your crockpot doesn't have a timer and you want to start it before work, I suggest getting one that the plug goes into. 8 hours is a long time for veg.

They make digital ones, but you have to reprogram them Everytime you plug it in. Here is a link to a mechanical one. https://www.amazon.com/Century-Plug-Mechanical-Timer-Grounded/dp/B00MVFF59S/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1536151828&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=plug+timer&dpPl=1&dpID=41hWDwaWyhL&ref=plSrch

Oh, that's nice! You can load the washer in the morning, set it to start running at an hour before you usually get home, and then move it to the dryer right away.

​

I wonder if one of those[ outlet timers](https://www.amazon.com/Century-Plug-Mechanical-Timer-Grounded/dp/B00MVFF59S) would work for that? You'd need a grounded one that accommodates the three prongs (the one I linked does).

1. Go to a homebrew store, buy a 5lb tank for $90 or so, it will cost $5 to refill in the future and might last you 6 months depending, likely less in a 55gal tho.
   
2. buy this: https://shop.glassaqua.com/products/uns-mini-co2-single-gauge-regulator
   
3. then this: https://shop.glassaqua.com/collections/co2/products/inline-co2-atomizer
   
4. then a timer like this: https://www.amazon.com/Century-Plug-Mechanical-Timer-Grounded/dp/B00MVFF59S?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_495340_0&pf_rd_p=1f7ed03e-6b56-52da-837f-50a4f94e13b7&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=495340&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=DF50PCP11P6M4SRKZV11&pf_rd_r=DF50PCP11P6M4SRKZV11&pf_rd_p=1f7ed03e-6b56-52da-837f-50a4f94e13b7
   
5. but preferably this: https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Enabled-Google-Assistant-HomeKit/dp/B01NBI0A6R/ref=pd_bxgy_107_img_3/141-4234734-0750431?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01NBI0A6R&pd_rd_r=7997e8e9-6f56-11e9-8d62-07ed84270f12&pd_rd_w=TOZXS&pd_rd_wg=mtJni&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=8GW94BPKJ41S91G2319H&psc=1&refRID=8GW94BPKJ41S91G2319
   
6. Then this: http://greenleafaquariums.com/co2-bubble-counters/atomic-bubble-counter.html
   
7. Then this: https://shop.glassaqua.com/collections/co2/products/co2-pressure-proof-tubing
   
8. Then this and fill it with the juice it comes with, and hang it over the edge of the tank. You will turn on the gas then check it every couple hours and adjust that tiny knob until you get what you need, which means likely that it turns lime green/yellow midday but goes back to dark green at night, its a balancing act until you get it right. https://shop.glassaqua.com/collections/co2/products/glass-co2-drop-checker-set
   
   ​
   
   Setup (in case you want this extra guide):
   
   
9. Fill the bubble counter with water from the topside (not the side with the red check valve, which is the bottom)
   
10. Plug in the timer, then tubing, then bubble counter, then inline diffuser.
    
11. Turn the big valve knob all the way to the right (clockwise / closed)
    
12. Pull out the tiny valve (fine adjustment) on the regulator and turn it all the way clockwise (closed)
    
13. Turn the big valve knob to the left (counter clockwise) until the gauge reads .3 MPa
    
14. Then turn the tiny knob to the left (counter clockwise) until you get to about 4 bubbles per second, i would recommend at least that for a 55gal heavily planted
    
15. Set timer turn on 30m before the light, and turn off 30m before the lights go out.
    
    ​
    
    It ain't cheap and won't likely solve all your algae issues (i have all manner of thread algae currently but it comes and goes) but it makes all the difference in overall plant health and growth, you will be trimming weekly if all goes well.
    
    Success, now just wait until the plants get wildly healthy in a week.

I like the mechanical timers for their simplicity, they seem to last fairly long. I have owned a few of the digital timers and they can be a pain to program correctly. Even though the mechanical timers can't have multiple schedules it is nice to know they'll function just as intended.

Here's one I'm talking about - https://www.amazon.com/Century-Plug-Mechanical-Timer-Grounded/dp/B00MVFF59S/

Erm... maybe attach a simple motor to a Wall timer?

If you don't know electronics, then you should accomplish this with as little electronics and as many off-the-shelf parts as possible.

Well, I'm skeptical of the smart home stuff for two main reasons. The biggest is because most of it seems like either more fragile and less reliable than the good ol' mechanical stuff. I know a light switch is going to turn on and off my lights. If it doesn't, odds are it's a problem with the light, not the switch. If I say "Hey, Lady in a Tube, turn off the lights," there's a much bigger chance of it not working in a way that I can't do anything about. A lot of other home automation stuff seems like it could be just as easily, and a lot more reliably, done with a simple, mechanical outlet timer. I want hot water in the morning, why buy a smart kettle or a smart plug that needs Wifi, when one of those timers will do the same thing, more reliably, even if my internet is down? Then there's the issue of so many of these smart home gadget companies getting bought out and bricking their devices. No fun.

The second concern I have is, of course, privacy. These things are collecting a lot of data, and I don't know how a lot of it is being used. I'd prefer to not have a hot microphone picking up what I say and sending it to a data center to be picked through for ads. Yes, I know the Echo doesn't send any audio unless it's been triggered first, but I don't know what all these other devices are sending out. Wasn't there a smart vacuum that was uploading maps of its users floorplans? Then there's the Vizio smart TVs that literally uploaded a framegrab of everything it displayed to Vizio every 30 seconds. I might be paranoid, but until the privacy stuff shakes out, I ain't gonna bother, even if I can find a use for it.

Giantex Indoor Grow Tent Room Reflective Mylar Hydroponic Non Toxic Clone Hut 6 Size (32''X32''X63'') https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PXK7ICK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UhVuybY2C4CHS

Roleadro 2nd Generation 600W LED Plant Grow Light Upgraded Full Spectrum Indoor Growing Light with 120pcs 5W Chips https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IVQ96MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_diVuybHJCV7XV

VIVOSUN 4 Inch 203 CFM Duct Inline Fan with Variable Speed Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CTM0H6I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BiVuybSGHVZTE

Century 24 Hour Heavy Duty Plug-in Mechanical Timer Grounded https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVFF59S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nkVuybNGBW6PS

MacDoDo PH-02 Digital PH Meter Tester Best For Water Aquarium Pool Hot Tub Hydroponics Wine - Push Button Calibration Resolution 0.01 / High Accuracy +/- 0.05 - Large LCD Display - 100% Guaranteed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JOHTMEO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MkVuybZ08V91M

VIVOSUN Pair of 1/8" Adjustable Grow Light Reflector Clip Hanger Rope Ratchet with Zinc Alloy Internal Gears 75lb Each https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P7TZNPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nlVuyb1Q8670K

This is my setup, my fan is coming in today and my seedlings sprouted this morning. I did quite a bit of research and The light is a little underpowered but I was on a pretty tight budget and can always add more light later.
I spent $40 on seeds and super soil mix from Mephisto genetics, going a more organic route and won't require nutes.
I also spent about $30 on peat moss, perlite, and compost. I already had some ducting and pots.

• With EI dosing you want to just dose the water column. They will make their way around the tank. For good measure I pull some of the water out in a cup, dissolve the powders in that water and then just dump it back into the tank. I aim it right for the filter flow so it gets spread around the tank.
  
  
• Here is the timer I use ($8) Link. You can set as many on-off segments as you'd like. I don't use screens or tops on my tanks.
  
  
• Fish don't really give off Co2 at all. Especially to the level that your plants need.
  
  
• Flourish Excel will eliminate the black beard algae if used consistently. You can dose it directly onto the spots that have the algae using a syringe.
  
  
• Be careful when "super-cleaning" your substrate. You will release large pockets of decaying matter that can dramatically shift the water parameters and temporarily crash your cycle.
  
  
• I exclusive buy all my plants from Amazon. The fact that the sellers have a reputation to maintain means that if you receive any dead or less-than-desirable plants they will replace them free of charge. When you decide who to buy from, buy multiples from them as the shipping charge will only be charged once (nothing is available on Prime as Amazon isn't about to stock live aquatic plants in their warehouses). My favorites that I have had very good results using are listed below. Aquarium Plants Factory regularly offers buy 2 get 1 free deals which I would recommend. They are the ones who I bought my Repens from:
  
  
  • SubstrateSource (Also have a website at Substratesource.com)
    
    
  • Aquatic Plants Factory
    
    
  • Mainam Aquatic Plant
    
    

I have the same ones, they get really hot so be sure to keep the heads far from the seedlings

Might even consider getting a mechanical timer. I got one recently and now I dont have to worry about turning them on in the morning and off at night.

As an example for a smallish grow:

2 x 2 x 4 Tent: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B074H5DKPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00

Lights: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0752CL6KJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00

Exhaust fan: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01C82SYZ0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00

Ducting: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00EPE3XHY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00

Timer: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00MVFF59S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00

Total cost: ~270 CAD

Ah okay gotcha. Also I realized I can get tons of discarded circuit boards from work so those should be enough practice material for me. I was looking at an iron like this https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Full-110V-Soldering-Iron/dp/B01712N5C4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483622458&sr=8-4&keywords=soldering+iron . Looks like it would be okay and is 60W

I really like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Soldering-Iron-Full-Welding/dp/B01712N5C4/ref=sr_1_4_acs_twc_5bddfe5a-5f_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1519276481&sr=1-4-acs&keywords=soldering+iron&content_id=5bddfe5a-5f09-4448-804c-13db1e65e880&ingress=search&content_type=story&ascsubtag=5bddfe5a-5f09-4448-804c-13db1e65e880&tag=ospsearch-20&widget_name=expert_recommendation&content_provider=osp

I use a little better stand then the one they give you but this Iron does have a temp adjustment which makes it pretty nice.

i would get this set

http://www.amazon.com/Full-Vastar-110V-Soldering-Iron/dp/B01712N5C4/ref=lp_11498399011_1_3?srs=11498399011&ie=UTF8&qid=1463149918&sr=8-3

comes with a solder sucker, stand, and tweezers for only a couple bucks more than the other recommendation. What I am currently using to make my SuperGameGirl

Saw a suggestion for this a few days ago from /u/jaiakt:

Amazon.com: Vastar Full Set 60W 110V Soldering Iron Kit

Weller does seem to be a good brand from reviews I've read before, though. The WLC100 that Krelbit suggested would be a step up in class from this.

I bought [this kit](Vastar Full Set 60W 110V Soldering Iron Kit - Adjustable Temperature, 5pcs Different Tips, Desoldering Pump, Stand, anti-static Tweezers and Additional Solder Tube for Variously Repaired Usage https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01712N5C4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AGFfzbEE1V8HC) off Amazon for $16. Not super high quality, but I've used it for several builds with no problem.

Check Craigslist for guitars that have electronic issues or are completely dead. For example I got an rg321mh that has a perfect neck and frets for $60. All I had to do was rewire a new input jack. Get a cheap solder pen and some 63/37 rosin core solder.

Wiring guitars is WAY easier then most people think. You can find diagrams for almost any production guitar/pickups.

Just make sure your frets, neck, and nut are good, that stuff is a pain to fix. The rest you're replacing anyways.

I just do a full rewire. Buy the following for a dead guitar: 1. CTS pots. 2. Switchcraft input jack and switch. 3. 22awg cloth sleeved wire. Use a multimeter to check pickups resistance. Or just get some guitar fetish pickups of your choice for a cheap option of new pickups. Then just do the full rewire following a diagram. Make sure to pre-tin your solder pen, the solder point, and your wire. Also sand the back of your cts pots for easier adhesion. Pickup a $5 helping hands from harbor freight to hold stuff to solder.

All this stuff will cost you around $50-60 with a cheap solder pen kit ($12 Amazon) and you will have enough wire and solder to do a bunch of guitars.

You will have a completely rewired guitar in less than 2 hours of work.

Here is links to solder pen, solder, and wire. The rest just lookup for your guitar you're gonna rewire.

https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Soldering-Iron-Full-Welding/dp/B01712N5C4?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_6


https://www.amazon.com/Gavitt-Cloth-covered-Pre-tinned-Pushback-Vintage-style/dp/B00JYJFE72/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=22+awg+wire+cloth&qid=1556147584&s=gateway&sr=8-4

https://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Dispense-Pak/dp/B00AVLM4SO/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=IRV7SJBS91YR&keywords=63+37+solder+kester&qid=1556147625&s=gateway&sprefix=63+37&sr=8-4

This one for $17 has served me well so far.

I got this kit. [Vastar Full Set 60W 110V Soldering Iron Kit] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01712N5C4/ref=CM_SW_R_CP_APA_ZV6IZBDB771M1)

I ended up getting a few other things and a better solder sucker after a few jobs.

[Hakko 599B-02 Solder Tip Cleaning Wire and Holder] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPGDLA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9Y6IzbHX1H6MD)

[Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=CM_SW_R_CP_APA_W06IZBVBPKVMP)



The sucker was totally worth the extra cost.

I'm going to pick up either this for $11 or this for $21 when I do the soldering on my pair.

2x TH20 Headlamps
https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-TH20-Lumen-CREE-Headlamp/dp/B01FCV32SI

From Jeff

Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Escolite-Flashlight-Ultraviolet-Blacklight-Detector/dp/B008133KB4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498698634&sr=8-3&keywords=uv+flashlight

I use this Blacklight UV Flashlight from Amazon! Just have to charge for minute to see the glow!

A UV light is handy for a little instant charge. If you're looking for a really glowy disc, try Kastaplast. It outshines the rest.

I use an LED UV flashlight like this

Scorpions glow under blacklight, so it's pretty easy to find them with something like this

https://smile.amazon.com/Escolite-Flashlight-Ultraviolet-Blacklight-Detector/dp/B008133KB4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522520306&sr=8-3&keywords=blacklight&dpID=51veSdpP7EL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/Escolite-Flashlight-Ultraviolet-Blacklight-Detector/dp/B008133KB4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526687158&sr=8-1&keywords=escolite

We got this and it's worked great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008133KB4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I always thought this one garnered more use off what the sub says often

Amazon is a great place to check! I picked up this one and I've been using it for years now. It goes on all my travels. It's not necessarily compact but for the sake of feeling happy, healthy and clean, I'll take it!

I replied to another poster as well.

It's this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Brondell-GS-70-Portable-Convenient-Capacity/dp/B008CSDKSQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=4SMYEIMTXCTN&keywords=travel+bidet&qid=1564154096&s=gateway&sprefix=travel+bidet%2Caps%2C129&sr=8-3

It's tough to clean. I have a really skinny bottle brush that I double over. Otherwise I love it, especially when I'm travelling.

This one

Get this

Bought this and no longer travel without it Brondell GS-70 GoSpa Travel Bidet https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B008CSDKSQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BMIZCbFAD49KC

True. A non-ultralight luxury is the Brondell Travel Bidet
http://www.amazon.com/Brondell-GS-70-GoSpa-Travel-Bidet/dp/B008CSDKSQ/

I use this bidet at home and love it.

For public bathrooms, you can get a travel bidet, like this one.

I usually just use some toilet paper that I've dipped into the toilet (after flushing of course!), and alternate between wet and dry wipes until it's clean.

I bought this from Amazon:

Brondell GS-70 GoSpa Travel Bidet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CSDKSQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rccnybCJ7CAEJ

Now I never have to worry about bidet-less bathrooms anymore. I've used it in airplanes, malls and even hotels that don't have bidets. Capacity is a little lacking (only 500 ml) but you can always bring with you a 1L bottle of mineral water for stall refilling or just walk over to the sink with your pants down for refilling (not recommended).

Also, bring tissue. Wet wipes clog toilets if you decide to flush them down.

You're welcome.

you're welcome!

I use the specific 'feminine' wipes that you find in the drugstore.

If you are going to use a water bottle - just buy a peri-bottle or a personal bidet...so that you can have a little more control of the water.

If you're ever in the need of a bidet, go on amazon and search up a portable bidet. I got one when i moved to North America!

edit: https://www.amazon.ca/Brondell-GS-70-GoSpa-Travel-Bidet/dp/B008CSDKSQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504155231&sr=8-1&keywords=portable+bidet

Use a travel bidet like this

Sure! So this is a bidet:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008CSDKSQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499647593&sr=8-1&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=travel+bidet

What you do is instead of using toilet paper, you squirt your butt with water by squeezing the bidet bottle. This eliminates the need for TP as it'll clean just as effectively.

This!

https://www.amazon.com/Tenma-21-8240-Vacuum-Desoldering-Iron/dp/B008DJRYIG/ref=sr_1_9/140-2662085-0132061?ie=UTF8&qid=1519399470&sr=8-9&keywords=desoldering


Also, when you are re-soldering... The key is to heat the part you are soldering, then add solder to the hot joint. You let the hot joint melt the solder, not the iron. If the parts being soldered don't get hot enough, they will not form a good bond. You've now learned the hard way.

It takes practice to learn how to solder, as it does to desolder. I would suggest practicing on an old printer or some other scrap device first.

You could probably find a used or new, cheap PCB on /r/mechmarket to practice. I just built my own, new 60%. It was harder than I thought but also not terribly difficult. Learning how to desolder (because I'm an idiot and messed up a lot of things) was a more difficult process. Again, not terribly difficult. You could always buy a soldering practice kit on Amazon.

I would suggest you buy a good solder sucker to make your life easier. I recommend this one. I also tried this thing per suggestions on /r/mk but found it disappointing. It doesn't suck out all the solder cleanly when I tried it.

I don't know about the quality or differences between the new and old QFRs or LED process. Some LEDs are separate and are independent of the switches, so you don't have to worry about that. Some are in the PCB themselves, so you don't have to worry about that again. Then there are cherry MX RGB switches which I know absolutely nothing about.

It's just called a desoldering iron, I was sleepy when I wrote the previous comment haha. I use this one and it's great. It just combines the iron and solder sucker into one much more effective tool.

Some will recommend the Engineer SS-02. I prefer the Soldapullt.

There's also this, but I haven't tried it myself. It's apparently good too.

I would buy some decent soldering wick just in case, for those stubborn pads. 99% of the time you won't need it in my experience though, given how big switch holes are.