Full list with links to everything shown here (and some stuff not shown). Please let me know if I've missed anything or if you have any questions.

PC Specs

Item | Make/model | Link | Price
-|-|-|-
Processor| Intel i7-8700k | Amazon | $355
Graphics Card| MSI GEFORCE GTX1080 TI GAMING X 11G| Amazon | $1,000
RAM | G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) 3200 MHZ | Amazon | $90
Motherboard | ASUS ROG Strix Z370-E Gaming | Amazon | $350
SSD | Samsung SSD 960 EVO 1TB NVMe | Amazon | $300
SSD | Samsung 850 EVO 500GB | Amazon | $130
SSD | Samsung 850 EVO 500GB | Amazon | $130
AIO | Corsair H110i V2 | Amazon | $120
Case | Lian Li PC 011 Dynamic | Amazon | $130
PSU | EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G2 | Amazon | $100
Fans | Corsair LL 120 | Amazon | $220
Drawers | Ikea Alex | Ikea | $90

The rest of the stuff

Item | Make/model | Link | Price
-|-|-|-
Desk | Jarvis Bamboo Standing Desk | Jarvis | $752
Chair | Herman Miller Embody | Amazon | $1,400
Monitor | ASUS PG279Q | Amazon | $610
Monitor | ASUS PG279Q | Amazon | $610
Desk Mat | Godspeed Reverse Panda | Novelkeys | $20
Mouse | Glorious Model O Matte White | Glorious | $50
Keyboard | Tofu65 w/ Gateron Browns | KBDFans | $200
Keycaps | MT3 Godspeed | Drop | $150
Dock | Caldigit TS3 | Amazon | $280
Speakers | Audioengine A2+ | Amazon | $300
Speaker Stands | Kanto S6W | Amazon | $60
Webcam | Logitech C922x | Amazon | $83
Monitor Arm | Jarvis Dual Monitor Arm in White | Jarvis | $160
Desk Backlight | Philips Hue Light Strip | Amazon | $90
Main Lights | Nanoleaf Light Panels | Nanoleaf | $550
Headphones | Hyperx Cloud Flight | Amazon | $135
VR | Oculus Quest | Amazon | $500
Headphones | Sony WH1000XM3 | Amazon | $275
Headphones | Master & Dynamic MH40 | Amazon | $250

Wallpaper Engine Link

\ price as configured

\ Some or all items not pictured here but are part of the setup

Why don't you get a 1440p display, cheaper sata ssd, cheaper cpu and mobo (ryzen 2, since you'd be playing on a higher res than 1080p ryzen 2 won't bottleneck and you won't need an aftermarket cooler) and you can step down to a 600/650w psu

you'll save: $176.88 on the cpu and cpu cooler (you'll also save some on the mobo). you'll save around $30 depending on the sata ssd you get (possibly more). save more than $30 and get this psu. So a total of around $295

you can get an Acer G247HYU for $230, you can find better deals on 1440p monitors tho

You'll get an overall better experience for slightly less money

Yep. Doesn't post checklist:

• Reset CMOS
  
• Unplug everything but CPU and Memory
  
• Remove Memory and use a known good stick in each slot one at a time
  
• Check Powersupply with either a tester or a known good supply
  
• Replace CPU
  
  Everything but replacing the CPU would take a few minutes at most. All the tools necessary can be taken with you to someones home in a small kit (tools to open case, tester, multiple dimm types).
  
  If you actually got all the way to replacing the CPU (assuming the computer didn't give you the beep code for bad memory), you would just inform the customer that it seems it's either a bad motherboard or bad CPU but that you would need to take it back to the shop for further diagnostics. If it's in your shop and not at home, this would be a really really quick 15 minute job.

The 3600x is $248 in stock and if you have Amex, you can get 20% off to get it to the price of a 3600

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139202&cm_re=550w-_-17-139-202-_-Product

$50 psu that is more than enough for this system

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813138372&cm_re=am3%2b-_-13-138-372-_-Product

$50 motherboard.

why you would pick such an expensive motherboard is beyond me when trying to do a comparison. motherboards offer almost NO performance improvements.

not to mention the cpu is more akin to amd's apu series, its an overclocked jaguar chip.

edit: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0430-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4

here is one of the best budget power supplies that is HIGHLY rated for $32, 500w version for $38

Some of them are there.

All Amazon Links:

Ryzen 9 3900x

Ryzen 7 3800x

Ryzen 7 3700x

Ryzen 5 3600x

Ryzen 5 3600

Ryzen 3 3200G

AMD cpus are on door crasher prices

AMD Ryzen 5 3600X $229

https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-3600X-12-thread-processor/dp/B07SQBFN2D/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=RYZEN&qid=1574929243&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-6

AMD Ryzen 7 2700X $189

https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=ryzen&qid=1574928763&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-1

AMD Ryzen 7 2700 $159

https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B41717Z/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=ryzen&qid=1574929088&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-2

AMD Ryzen 5 2600X $145

https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428V2L/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=ryzen&qid=1574929122&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-7

AMD Ryzen 7 3800X $397

https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-3800X-16-thread-processor/dp/B07SXMZLPJ/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=ryzen&qid=1574929122&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-8

Have an upvote, some people don't know and that's fine. So I'll explain.

Gigabyte 980 Ti = GPU(grapics card), it handles the graphics of the game, OP was asking how much vram or memory his graphics card needs.


i7 6700k # 4.0ghz CPU(Central Processing Unit) It does what it sounds like, processes all computations for your computer other than gpu. The 4.6ghz means he overclocked it making it go faster.


With that being said, the CPU he used is the latest generation CPU, not necessarily the most expensive or fastest, but pretty close. His GPU is a tier below the best you can get in terms of gaming GPU's for now(close to every year something better and faster gets released). So in short, he's got close to the best you can get for gaming and in all probably cost close to or over $2000. It's what we call and Enthusiast build, it's better then probably 80%(I'm guessing) of what other PC gamers are using.


He mentions he is getting an average of 30FPS which means 30 frames per second. This is what most gamers consider the bare minimum of frames to play games enjoyably without stutter or the picture freezing. Ideally gamers prefer 60FPS or higher, but as this game(with his mod and ULTRA settings) demands quite a bit out of the hardware(GPU, CPU ect) it is unable to achieve that and plays at a playable 30Fps.

TL;DR: He's got close to the best hardware you can get.

It's actually only $20 off if you look at other vendors like newegg or amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-3600X-12-Thread-Processor/dp/B07SQBFN2D/


(but oh my god -$100 for a deal #IgnoreThisLine)

3900X: https://www.amazon.de/AMD-Ryzen-3900x-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07SXMZLP9/ref=sr_1_1?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=3900x+amd&qid=1562017893&s=gateway&sr=8-1

3800X: https://www.amazon.de/AMD-Ryzen-3800x-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07SXMZLPJ/ref=sr_1_2?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=3800x+amd&qid=1562017903&s=gateway&sr=8-2

3700X: https://www.amazon.de/AMD-Ryzen-3700x-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07SXMZLPK/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=3700x+amd&qid=1562017931&s=gateway&sr=8-3

3600X: https://www.amazon.de/AMD-Ryzen-3600x-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07SQBFN2D

3600: https://www.amazon.de/AMD-Ryzen-3600-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07STGGQ18

3200G: https://www.amazon.de/AMD-Ryzen-3200G-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07STGHZK8

$230 on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-3600X-12-thread-processor/dp/B07SQBFN2D/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=

Naa, the scams are real but they did not buy from Amazon. They bought from a seller on amazon. Those two are not the same thing. Look how many sellers are there for just the 8700K. The first one is Amazon but everything below them are independent sellers.

Or don't and get a raspberry pi and put Kodi on it.

Here^1 is^2 everything^3 you^4 need to make a KodiPi with enough space to put a bunch of movies on (if you wish, otherise just get a smaller mSD). About the same price as a brand new roku, but you can do a lot more with it, and it's open source so you could do whatever you wanted with the device.

More info here, including a working PCI-E card:

https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/3zrtgs/psa_your_usb_30_ports_may_not_be_compatible_with/

Basically it looks like Intel and Fresco controllers are good. That throws a lot of motherboards more than a couple years old out of contention.

Amazon links for your convenience:

• US Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA
  
• Canadian Amazon: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00PAFDW3M
  
• UK Amazon: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Express-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B00FPIMJEW
  
  Note: technically any of the powered inateck ones should work since they all use Fresco controllers, but note that the 2 port one only gives you the extra front panel ports if your case supports that. It's safest to get one of the versions with 4 or 5 ports on the back. I can confirm the 5 port+20pin version passes the test for me.

These all the first results on amazon in the motherboard section. All have a PS/2 port. So yes. I could use my 10-year-old PS/2 mouse on a new computer.

https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-LGA1151-Intel-Motherboard-GA-H110M/dp/B0165YUDTM/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481993246&sr=1-1&keywords=motherboard

https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Skylake-B150-Motherboard-M3/dp/B014YN6732/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481993246&sr=1-2&keywords=motherboard

https://www.amazon.com/MSI-970-GAMING-DDR3-Motherboard/dp/B00LUY72F6/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481993246&sr=1-3&keywords=motherboard

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Z170-A-ATX-DDR4-Motherboards/dp/B012NH05UW/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481993246&sr=1-4&keywords=motherboard

https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Intel-Micro-Motherboard-H81M-E33/dp/B00F42W70A/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481993246&sr=1-5&keywords=motherboard

https://www.amazon.com/MSI-X99A-GAMING-PRO-CARBON/dp/B01GIUYPHE/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481993246&sr=1-6&keywords=motherboard

As far as bang for your buck, I think the Hyper 212+ is a better buy. It's about two-thirds of the price of the Hyper 212 Evo and you'll only see a minimal benefit with the Evo (which is from the better fan, if I recall correctly).

You really can't go wrong with either cooler but if you're already over budget or need to save a few dollars somewhere, I'd say the 212+ is a better buy - especially if you're only doing some conservative overclocking.

AMD Ryzen 5 3600X $229

https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-3600X-12-thread-processor/dp/B07SQBFN2D/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=RYZEN&qid=1574929243&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-6

AMD Ryzen 7 2700X $189

https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=ryzen&qid=1574928763&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-1

AMD Ryzen 7 2700 $159

https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B41717Z/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=ryzen&qid=1574929088&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-2

AMD Ryzen 5 2600X $145

https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428V2L/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=ryzen&qid=1574929122&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-7

AMD Ryzen 7 3800X $397

https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Ryzen-3800X-16-thread-processor/dp/B07SXMZLPJ/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=ryzen&qid=1574929122&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&sr=8-8

fixed this on mine just by reducing the camera bandwith to the second or third lowest notch. the built in usb hub in the headset is trying to push data from 2 controllers, and the video of the camera to the computer, and since a large percentage of usb controllers on motherboards arent really providing the needed overall bandwidth, despite being usb 3, you get tracking issues. also, usb 2 provides better performance, you should switch to that if you are using usb 3. the chipsets with non optimal performance were already ID´d by oculus, they offered a link to amazon to a pci express usb3 controller which works most likely with the full camera bandwidth on the vive.

crappy chipsets:

Texas Instruments USB 3.0 xHCI

Etron USB 3.0 Extensible Host Controller

VIA USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller - 1.0 (Microsoft)

ASMedia USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller

ASMedia XHCI Controller

Renesas USB 3.0 eXtensible-Hostcontroller

proposed fix:

http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00PAFDW3M

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Express-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B00FPIMJEW

Hey! It looks like you've got a pretty solid build started here! I just want to point out a few things to make your life just a little bit easier.

1. The motherboard you have will NOT work with the CPU that you've chosen. You picked a Z170A board, which works with the 6th and 7th generation (if BIOS is flashed) of Intel CPU's, and you're buying an 8th generation. So I would recommend this board or this one instead. Either will work, it just depends on how much money you want to spend.
   
2. Don't buy the power supply you've picked. It puts out way more wattage than you'll use, so I would recommend saving some money and maybe picking up this one. As a bonus it has an RGB fan, so that's kinda cool. It's also fully modular, meaning that you only need to plug the cables into the PSU that you need instead of having extras to hide in your case.
   
3. I'd also save some money on your RAM. This set is cheaper, faster, and only requires that you use two of your RAM slots instead of all four. More upgradeability in the future!
   
4. Think about if you really need 2TB of storage right now. The 1TB SSD you have picked out is going to be great, and if you're new to PC gaming it's going to have plenty of space for awhile. You can always pick up a new HDD (like the Seagate one you have in your cart) later down the road.
   
5. With the money that you've saved, I think that you could upgrade your graphics card from your 1060 (a GREAT option, don't get me wrong) to a 1070 like this one. (EVGA is a great company in my opinion, and I love their graphics cards.) It's a great contender for both 1440p and 1080p gaming!
   
6. Others have said to get a cheaper air cooler instead of opting for the water cooler that you've picked. If you decide to go that route (completely fine) I would maybe go with something like this if you want something extra beefy to keep your CPU cool, or this less beefy one. Either way, 8th generation CPUs run hot, so the water cooler you have would work great.
   
   So there ya go! I hope that you enjoy your new build, it's going to be amazing! If you PM me I'll add you on Steam and we can play some games together when your build is all set!

You need:

• A RaspberryPi - newer versions have a better CPU (but you can get a Zero for $5). If you want to play N64, go with a newer Raspberry Model B.
  
• A +5.1V micro USB power supply (for RetroPie, a 2.5A one works well)
  
• A USB Keyboard
  
• An HDMI cable
  
• A gaming controller of your choosing (USB cord if you can/otherwise bluetooth)
  
• An SD card - these can come pre-loaded if you shop around
  
  Optional:
  
  
• A nice case (according to OP's friend, Legos).
  
• SD Card Reader/Writer (if you didn't buy an SD card preloaded; some laptops have them)
  
• A bluetooth dongle (for PS3/PS4/XBox/XBoxOne/etc.)
  
• A wifi dongle (if you don't want a hard wired connection)
  
  Download RetroPie
  
  Follow video here:
  
  https://retropie.org.uk/documentation/installing-retropie/
  
  Might I add, you can setup SSH on the retropie, so you can connect to the machine and upload ROMs without having to use a USB keyboard. Google for old ROMs, I've used LoveROMs in the past.
  
  Total build time ~1-2 hours. Total cost $30 - $65.

The favorite 970 is in stock now: http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Graphics-GV-N970G1-GAMING-4GD/dp/B00NH5T1MS

You could use a tutorial here. It is a lot easier to do than it seems. I will tell you, you need a keyboard, Raspberry Pi 3, and an SD Card. Once you get that, here is where you can download it.. Then, just follow the instructions on Instructable. You really do not have to pay someone, it is a lot easier than it seems. If you want, you can even get a retro case (or normal one like I did) and get a retro controller. PM me if you need more help (I won't charge you if you need help, it is really easy)!

Edit: Ill do yo a bigger favor. Here are the things you will need

Raspberry Pi 3

Raspberry Pi 3 Charger Kit. A powerful phone charger or micro usb adapter should work, but someone can let me know if I am wrong.

SD Card Raspberry Pi 3

Keyboard, though, you probably have one of these at home

Retro Controller, not required, but recommended

You will need at least an 8 GB SD Card, but I recommend 32 GB

• 3600
  
• 3600X
  
• 3700X
  
• 3800X
  
• 3900X
  
  Delivery is currently 15 July.

Assuming you are talking about R-Pi, v3b.

All 32 bit and lower works flawlessly. This includes but is not limited to Genisis, GB, GBC, GBA, NES, SNES, PSX.

N64 is the most commonly discussed as it has a large library of great games that are also often 4x multiplayer. Most games work very well (e.g. Mario Kart), while some do not (in particular 007 Goldeneye).

Hardware:

• Raspberry Pi 3 - $36
  
• Samsung EVO 32GB Class 10 Micro SDHC - $11
  
• CanaKit 5V 2.5A Raspberry Pi 3 Power Supply - $10
  
• Addicore Raspberry Pi Heatsink Set - $5
  
• AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 3 Feet - $5
  
• Official Raspberry Pi 3 Case - $8
  
  
  Total cost so far, $75. You can get a less expensive case that also comes with the heat sinks bringing your cost down to ~$65.
  
  Cheap right? Well, the one thing that is going to cost you the most in any of these builds is the controllers.
  
  I like:
  
  
• 8BITDO NES30 Pro Wireless Bluetooth Controller - $49 (x4).
  
  When I first bought them, they were $36 each, and I love them. They work really well via the Pi's built in Bluetooth.
  
  Another great option that works really well are the XBOX-360 controllers. Wired ones run you $27 each brand new, and wireless are $34/each, plus one adapter for the set.
  
  
  In other words, four good controllers are going to run you $100-$200. Which is the bulk of most builds. In a childs-only build, I am considering either wired XBOX-360 controllers because of their awesome cord break-away feature, or going even less expensive with the $12 SNES clones, though that eliminates the ability to play N64 and PSX.

Assuming it was off when it got wet, it may be ok if you let it dry out completely. Of course modern power supplies are not really off, unless they are unplugged. Even then there is a small amount of current being supplied to the real time clock via the coin cell battery on the motherboard.

If it does not start up when dry it is possible it is just the power supply that is dead / blown fuse. The motherboard and cards / drives may still be fine.

The fuse in the power supply is not considered user serviceable so don't open it. If it is dead just toss it. They make ATX power supply testers and you can find them for cheap on Amazon.

-- EDIT --
Here is a power supply tester

>Always spend at least 100$ on a good power supply.

The fuck is wrong with you. A decent $60 will do just fine for MOST builds you'll see here.

Just don't buy super cheap $30 trash or things suspiciously cheap.

http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Continuous-Warranty-120-G1-0650-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=sr_1_27?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1462332888&sr=1-27&keywords=power+supply

Would be more than enough with 10 year warranty UNDER $100

Don't always spend "at least $100"
You don't know wtf you're talking about.

How do you know a cheaper psu wouldn't have saved your PC from either? Legitimately how do you seem to know for sure?

​

|mobo|$290|AORUS Z390 Master|
|:-|:-|:-|
|gpu|$700|AORUS 1080 ti Xtreme|
|ram|$360|G.Skill TridentZ RGB 4x8 3200 Mhz|
|cpu|$360|Intel i7 8700k 5Ghz OC|
|psu|$156|Corsair RM1000i Gold|
|nvme|$138|Samsung 970 EVO 500GB 2280 SSD|
|case|$150|Corsair Obsidian 500D|
|fans|$56|Corsair SP120|
|rgb fans|$110|Corsair LL120 RGB|
|cables|$105|CableMod PRO ModMesh C-Series RMi|
|240 rad|$66|EKWB EK-CoolStream SE 240 Slim Dual|
|360 rad|$90|EKWB EK-CoolStream PE 360 Dual|
|gpu wb|$165|EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus RGB - Nickel|
|gpu bp|$47|EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus Backplate - Nickel|
|cpu wb|$72|Phanteks Glacier C350i|
|kit|$60|Thermaltake PETG 16mm OD Bending Kit|
|pump|$100|EKWB EK-D5 PWM G2 Pump|
|res|$126|Watercool HEATKILLER Tube 200 D5|
|res top|$21|Watercool HEATKILLER Multiport Top 200|
|stand|$19|Watercool HEATKILLER Stand (Long)|
|riser|$27|Thermaltake PCI-E x16 3.0 Riser Cable 200mm|
|coolant|$56|XSPC EC Opaque White Coolant (qty 2)|
|fittings|$54|Thermaltake Pacific 90 Degree Adapters|
|fittings|$110|Thermaltake Pacific 16mm Compression Fittings (qty 2)|
|fittings|$26|Bitspower 5mm Male to Male 4-Pack|
|fittings|$20|Barrow Stop Plug 4-Pack|
|fittings|$15|Thermaltake Stop Plug 4-Pack|
|fittings|$14|XSPC Ball Valve|
|tubing|$40|Thermaltake 1000mm V-Tubler PETG 16mm 4-Pack|
|paste|$40|Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut|
|isopropyl|$18|NTE Isopropyl 99.9%|
|bottle|$11|1000ml fill bottle|
|foam|$13|1/4 inch thick foam insulation|
|heat gun|$25|Furno 300 Heat Gun|
||$3649||
||||
|mouse pad|$26|Reflex Lab XXXL 36" x 18" Mouse Pad|
|chair|$175|Techni Mobili RTA-5004-BK Rta-5004-Bk Office Chair|
|arm pads|$18|Aloudy Ergonomic Memory Foam Arm Covers|
|monitor|$900|Acer Predator x34p Ultrawide QHD G-Sync|
|stand|$100|AmazonBasics Premium Single 25lb Monitor Stand|
|cable|$18|Accell DisplayPort 1.2 Cable 10ft|
||$4886||
||||
|mouse|$50|Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum RGB|
|keyboard|$110|https://www.amazon.com/MODEL-Corsair-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B00N2ROO2S|
||$5046||

​

380 vs 530 is double?

9900k https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005404P9I

8700k https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-8700K-Desktop-Processor-Unlocked/dp/B07598VZR8/

This seems like the perfect excuse to upgrade to a Hyper 212.

Sorry in advance if this is a bit of a spammy post, it's been growing in each topic I put it in as I assemble more and more info for people.

I've posted about this in a couple different threads so I'll just copypasta some of it here.
The cost for my setup, not including the drives (of which I had quite a few laying around from other builds) and an unRAID Pro License, was about $800 all together.

It can do pretty much everything you've asked except maybe Live TV PVR, but that's only because of a limitation in the Plex unRAID Docker itself. So if you plan on running Plex in the Docker that's gonna be the case no matter what you end up running it on hardware wise.

I have about 40 friends around the globe who regularly access my server and the only real bottleneck I've encountered is my upload speed when too many streams are pushing out at once.

__

You can make a good unRAID rig for FAR cheaper if you simply use older server components, for example:

SuperMicro X8DT3-LN4F Motherboard ($89.99)

2x Intel Xeon X5650 LGA1366 CPU's ($43.48 each)

EVGA SuperNOVA 650 Watt 80 Plus Gold Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99)

Some DDR3 ECC Server RAM, Usually pretty cheap ($24.00)

Then you just need any EATX capatible case, any two LGA1366 coolers, and any drives you want. All together your probably looking at no more than $600-700 for a system that will likely preform the same if not better than the setup you posted but will have 12-Cores (24 Hyper-threaded) @ 2.66Ghz


I should point out that I ALREADY have this style of setup working with unRAID, so this is not theory but a proven concept. I found as many of the original sources that I used as I could, but I made this a while ago so not all were current. Either way tho, the price for doing this kind of setup only tends to go DOWN over time, so it will only get easier to put together. Heck I've seen some sales of the X8DT3-LN4F Motherboard that come with RAM & CPU's already, so you might be able to pick up a complete setup for about the same cost as getting it piece by piece.

__

The only thing I would really add to the above is that the SAS module on the above motherboard actually has issues with operating Drives larger than 2TB, so If you want to add more than the 6 SATA 3TB+ drives that the Mobo nativly supports, your gonna need a PCIe SATA expansion card, such as This One that I ended up using.

I also have had some boot issues with the SAS function enabled in general, so if you do end up going with the above board I would just leave it disabled.

Also I would highly recommend watching most of Space Invader One's unRAID tutorial videos. Especially the ones about Docker CPU pinning and optimization plugins.

__

On my current setup I am running:

Dockers --
Plex, PlexPy (Plex Statistics and Notifications, I'm using it to run a Discord Bot that announces when new things are added on the server to friends), Omni (Plex Request System), Radarr, Sonarr, Jackett (Lets Radarr & Sonarr search private & public torrent trackers automatically), Deluge (Bittorrent Client), OpenVPN (For secure remote access over VPN) & Krusader (File Manager, Booted on Demand)

VMs --
Windows 8.1 VM (As a VNC GUI remote interface and to run ExtractNow to automatically deal with rared or zipped media torrents) & Windows 10 VM (Passing through a GTX970 and being used as a Steam In-Home streaming Client. Hooked directly up to a 4K TV so I can stream games from my main High End Gaming Rig to my TV. Booted on Demand)

Plugins --
A Bunch from the Community Applications Suite (Auto Turbo Write Mode, Auto Update Applications, Backup/Restore Appdata, Cleanup Appdata, Config Editor), Several Dynamix Plugins (Cache Directories, File Integrity, SSD TRIM, System Information, System Statistics), Fix Common Problems, Nerd Tools, Tips and Tweaks, Unassigned Devices, unBALANCE, User Scripts

Drives --
Nine 3TB HDDs (1 For Parity & 8 For Storage), One 120GB SSD (Cache)

__

Looks like you can get a refurbished X8DT3-F for about $120. The only real difference between the X8DT3-F and X8DT3-LN4F is if they have 2 or 4 Gigabit Ethernet Ports.

I actually have all 4 of mine connected to a high speed switch then into my router as a load balanced bond (effectively getting 4xGigabit speeds, at least within my LAN, which IS useful when streaming 4K games from my gaming PC to the server's client VM) but for most setups both boards are effectively equivalent.

1. You're going to need a capture card to record your video from your console. Look at Elgato or Hauppauge
   
   
2. Of course you'll need a Camera to record your face-cam, any one will do. Logitech is popular for these.
   
   
3. Okay so you've recorded all your footage, now what? Pop that footage into a video editing program like Adobe Premiere and get to work. Crop out the parts of the game capture you don't want, layer them over your face-cam recordings, and boom. There are dozens of tutorials on how to crop footage, basic editing, etc.
   
   
4. Render that shit.
   
   
5. Upload it to YouTube and prepare to not be able to monetize the video you spent all that time making.

It's the official raspi screen, 7" with about a 1" border and is essentially plug n' play into the raspi. I also found this random bamboo case for the screen which I like a lot. I also need a slightly more powerful power supply for the raspi and screen together.

This deal is still going. An EVGA 450bt for 22 with no MIR. This is a better deal imo.
450bt for $22 on amazon

Hey p_orsk,

So glad to hear that we have another HomeLabber in our midst. I just thought I would take a minute and share with you my current build that has suited me very well. It is completely silent and power efficient, while still powerful enough to do what you want plus more. My build was also built to be small profile so this build is built around a Micro-ITX case. This build cost me $500 in the US in 2017, don't quite know what the price would be now.

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 1600 Processor with Wraith Spire Cooler
  
• Motherboard: ASUS PRIME A320M-K AMD Ryzen AM4 DDR4 HDMI VGA M.2 USB 3.1 Micro-ATX Motherboard
  
• PSU: EVGA 430 W1, 80+ WHITE 430W
  
• RAM: HyperX FURY Black 16GB Kit (2x8GB) 2133MHz DDR4
  
  As I said, this build should be completely silent. I went into the BIOS settings and turned it on Power-Saver mode for good measure, which makes things run a bit warmer, but keeps fan speeds down.
  
  I didn't list storage here, as it sounds like you got that covered. This motherboard also supports M.2 if you want to add that later.
  
  If I can make one suggestion, I would highly recommend getting into Virtualization. My poison of choice is Proxmox. I could really get into this, but it really helps when you are trying to expand.
  
  If you have any other questions, feel free to comment on this post, or shoot me a DM. I would be happy to help!
  
  [EDIT] This is just my experience. You will get 110 different answers from 100 different people in this world. You kinda just have to tinker to get what works for you.

I wouldn't doubt it as the CX PSUs are pretty horrible.

What light exactly are you referring to though? The power button light on the case? No other lights come on on the motherboard or anything? No fans turn on (literally none of them?)? If the PSU was completely dead you'd likely see no lights at all, but that doesn't mean the PSU isn't the problem.

You can test the PSU with paperclip method to confirm if it's indeed the problem or if you want to fork up a few dollars you can buy a PSU tester. Something like THIS would work.

• motherboard tester
  
  
• Power Supply tester
  
  
• Ultimate Boot CD
  
  
• Dr. Web Live CD
  
  
• electric screwdriver
  
  
• package opener
  
  it's hardly relevant, but that last one is there because those plastic packages are annoying and sometimes the thing inside those clamshell packages are used for PC repair, such as a flash drive. it also has a box cutter, a little screwdriver you can use as a backup, and the clippers work really well on zip ties, which can sometimes be useful with PC parts, as wires are sometimes zip tied together.
  
  everything else is basically all you'll need to diagnose and fix any problems you may have with a PC. as long as the PSU connectors and motherboard are working, you can figure out any other hardware failure. Dr. Web will cure almost any viruses you can't kill in safe mode with Malwarebytes, and Ultimate Boot CD has many diagnostic tools that from my experience, can help pinpoint nearly any other issue.
  
  I feel like I've forgotten one of my other diagnostic tools. I might be thinking of my PC Login Now disc and my XP Black CD. but I can't legitimately link you to those. most subreddits frown upon linking to anything even remotely related to piracy. I think I covered everything else.
  
  and depending on how advanced with repair you plan to go, you might want a soldering kit as well, but I doubt you'll do anything on that level. I don't even solder anything, and I plan on doing computer repair for a living.

For the price i'd suggest the EVGA 450W BT instead

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-Warranty-Supply-100-BT-0450-K1/dp/B01N9X3F8F

What you'll need:

• $40 Raspberry Pi 3
  
• $20 MicroSDXC Card - any size. 64GB for $23 seems to be a solid deal. - If you want to install large game libraries with video previews, look into a 128GB. They're not more expensive and you have way more room to play with. $40 - 128GB
  
  
• $16 Case - it can be as low as $5. I choose this one because it's simple and highly functional.
  
  
• $10 Power Supply - Don't mess around. Get one that will provide the proper voltage.
  
  
• $13 Mini Keyboard - I use mine all the time. Others use basic USB keyboards from Goodwill. Others SSH into the console. This is optional.
  
  Again, there are some very optional parts above. It can be as cheap or expensive as you want. Also, I'm not getting into controllers. Those will throw the budget in every direction possible.
  
  
• Cheap: Pi3 w. $5 case and have everything else (keyboard, memory card, power supply, controller) at home, you're at $45.
  
• Not cheap: Pi3 w. $20 case, $45 128GB MicroSDXC, $20 back-lit keyboard, $10 power supply, $50 Wii U Pro bluetooth controller = $145

Raspberry Pi 2: $35

SNES controller adapter: $11

32 GB MicroSD card: $10

Power Supply: $10

Case: $7

RetroPie: $0

The ability to play your favorite games forever: Priceless

$229 on Amazon right now for 24 hours.

So, presumably, you're going to want different sections to have lights which operate independently from each other. Lights in this "room" lights in another "room" lights somewhere else yet. And also, presumably, you don't want it to be "all on" or "all off," but different sections that turn on when players are there, leaving the other sections off.

All sections will require power in order to operate, but it won't be necessary to run power cables willy nilly all over the board for this. Instead, you can run two lines - one positive, and one negative - back to your power source. It's similar to a breadboard in that you have power lines running the full length so you can tap power wherever you need it. I personally would run something like 14AWG wire to a series of screw down terminals, which will be where you connect any "room" circuits up.

I personally would change your design to use LEDs instead of incandescent bulbs. The incandescent bulbs will require a much higher voltage, which will require more expensive reed switches, and will also pose more hazard to work with and for the players. It definitely can be done safely at 120V, but it will be less work for better results (that will also last longer) if you switch. Using say, 12V DC for power, you can leave your power rails exposed if you want and it won't be a risk even if someone is touching them.

Here is a hastily drawn wiring schematic for you, which shows one light that would be activated by standing upon 6 different tiles. The black and red lines up top are your power rails. On one end, each of those is connected to a + (red) and - (black) on a power source. I would recommend something like this or even like this depending upon what your actual power requirements end up being. My overwhelming suspicion is your entire board, even if every fixture was lighted, would still be consuming less than 24W (if you go LED!). The cluster of 6 of the same item to the left are a bank of switches. Power is drawn off the + rail, and if any one switch is closed, power will continue to flow to the LED (purple), which is attached to the - rail to close the circuit. This can be scaled up or down almost infinitely - more LEDs on from one switch or switch bank - no problem - more or less switches - no problem. You can make as many of these set ups as you want, and attach them to the same rails - no problem!

To be honest, reading your post it sounds like still have some work to go to reach even a fundamental understanding of electrical circuitry. That's of course ok and not intended as a diss. This is partially why I recommend switching to a lower voltage of DC power (although it is what I would do personally as well), but also I would recommend you continue working on the fundamentals - it will make designing your project a lot easier. Here's a kinda whack video for kids but it's the most digestible one I was able to find in quickly searching. I also found this really cool lab software which will allow you to create simulations of the concepts you've learned about. If you need help or have specific questions, feel free to ask. Also, if you've got a design of your board laid out in a grid and you know where you want lights, switches, etc, I can help you turn that into a wiring diagram.

I would recommend installing a USB expansion card in an open pci slot if possible. I have this one. Have never had any issues.

Inateck Superspeed 7 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - 5 USB 3.0 Ports and 2 Rear USB 3.0 Ports Express Card Desktop with 15 Pin SATA Power Connector, Including Two Power Cables (KT5002)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_r8e1BbR81HJFS

Here is a list of things that people will always need, I understand you can't stock everything as overhead is an issue with retail, and storage as well, but most of these are small enough that they can occupy the shelf space you currently have. As for the larger things, like the 2020 extrusions, you could sell them in common lengths of 500mm and 1000mm and let the customer cut them down to the size they need, or just don't carry these at all. It's not a niche item, but for a retail store like you it would be hard to store and maintain, but man, would it be nice to be able to get those locally if i needed a piece for a project instead of having to wait on mail order.

• PSU 12v/24v
  
• Fans 30mm/40mm in 12v/24v
  
• PEI 200mm, 250mm, 300mm for Deltas and 300x300 for Cartesian, CoreXY.
  
• E3D Hotends
  
  • v6
    
  • Volcano
    
  • Titan Aero
    
  • Nozzle Variety Pack
    
  • Thermistors
    
  • Pro Socks
    
  • Heater Cartridges
    
  • Volcano Nozzles
    
  • Heat Breaks
    
• Boro Glass
  
• Spatulas similar to this style
  
• Plastic Razor Blades
  
• Capricorn PTFE Tubing 1.75/3mm variants
  
• Screws, Cap head, M3, M4, M5 etc.
  
• 2020 Extrusion, 2040 Extrusion etc
  
  this is just a basic list, others have listed other things as well, Steppers, Belts, Pulleys, Bearings etc. If you want 3d printing as a reason for other people to go to your store, these items will satisfy the need. Just keep prices fair, I have no issue paying a bit more compared to amazon to get it today.
  

You can buy it in Amazon for $414 plus tax... the only catch is that you have to wait later this month.

Amazon Price

Sold by Amazon
Intel BX80684I78700K 8th Gen Core i7-8700K Processor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07598VZR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KnHEAbBE0M0EZ

/u/JetJaguar124 /u/Integralds

So first thing's first, Windows: ~$130 for Home Edition.

Okay, so things to keep in mind:

1. If you go Intel, overclocking isn't too great on 9th gen intel, especially if you don't have a beefy aftermarket cpu cooler. So if you don't plan on doing that at some point then you don't need a K series CPU and an overclocking motherboard. So your motherboard should primarily focus on giving you decent I/O options.
   
   
2. You also probably want to aim for 1080p or 1440p tops, given your price range.
   
   
3. Related to #1: If you don't plan on overclocking then a basic-ish mobo will do fine, and you mainly want to focus on I/O and other features. If you are getting Intel doubly so, as, as I mentioned before, intel 9th gen doesn't overclock well due to relatively low headroom to begin with. For intel overclocking boards are "Z" while non-overclocking boards are "B". For AMD they are "X" and "B" respectively.
   
   The GPU you should be seeking to use is the 1660 Ti, which is basically a slightly gimped RTX 2060 but without the raytracing stuff. If you are willing to spend a bit more then you could get an RX 5700 instead, which is nearly ~30% faster on average.
   
   That'll put you at $270 - $360 depending on the model you pick. Yes, it's a third of your budget, but the GPU is the single most important part of your build.
   
   Secondly you'll want a decent CPU to go with that.
   
   The Ryzen 5 3600 looks like a pretty good CPU, its a bit under $200, its fairly beefy and extendable so it's somewhat "future-proof" - in that it shouldn't cause much bottlenecking and you could upgrade your GPU past a 2080 Ti before needing to change the processor.
   
   This MSI Tomohawk Mobo looks good for the 3600.
   
   So we're at ~$320 for that, or about $640 total. Plus windows that is ~$730.
   
   The RAM Inty recommended before should be fine. You only really need 16 GB. This will set you back ~$80. If you find yourself wanting more RAM later down the line you can always add another pair of sticks later and double up your RAM.
   
   That puts us at around ~$800.
   
   $80 for a 750W Fully Modular Corsair PSU is basically a steal. It's refurbished though, although that shouldn't be a problem - especially with a PSU.
   
   We're at ~$880.
   
   Some good thermal paste for your CPU.
   
   We're now at ~$890.
   
   Storage depends on what you want to do. Do you install a lot of stuff and files at once? In which case you might want to get a nice sized SSD plus a big HDD.
   
   For your system drive. Plenty of space, good price, AND its an nvme SSD.
   
   That makes for ~$990.
   
   If you need lots of extra space
   
   If you need extreme extra space
   
   Keyboard and case are up to you, decide as you please. For the case just make sure that it can support an ATX mobo, as the mobo listed here is full ATX. Mechanical keyboards are crack, but they tend to be more expensive so they're probably out of range. This will be another $100 to $150 depending on what you pick.
   
   Something to keep in mind though: Your case and your monitors are basically "future proof". In other words, they won't really get "worse" with time or cause future performance issues. So monitors and case are things where you want to consider what you'll eventually want and buy ahead, even if you have to stretch a bit.
   
   This just leaves your monitor. I would NOT recommend a 1080p monitor above 24 in. Honestly, if you can go for a 1440p monitor then do it. I'm a bit of a resolution whore tho, so if 1080p works for you then that's fine. I would also avoid TN panels - they tend to look more washed out, tinny, and have worse viewing angles . . . although they also tend to be a fair bit cheaper than the good panels (namely IPS panels).
   
   I used to own one of these . . . it was vvy vvy gud. This is a relatively artsy monitor, so if color gamut correctness or whatever is important for you for photo or video editing or whatever, then this is a good pick. It's a bit expensive, yeah, but also super gorgeous. It also goes up to 75 Hz. Conversely, get a freesync monitor, and this one is probably good - haven't done much research on it, but Dells are generally pretty good in my experience (my current 4K monitor is a Dell too). Freesync will allow you to basically eliminate screen tearing and will provide a smoother feeling experience because it will even out frame rates better.
   
   One last thing to keep in mind: Shopping around on ebay and other sites can save you a fair bit. My rule of thumb is to never, ever buy sensitive parts like hard-drives, cpus, or motherboards second hand or refurbished. But everything else is fair game. So refurbished GPUs, Monitors, PSUs, Cases, etc. should be fine. Pre-owned? Ehhh . . . that I'm much, much more sketchy on - personally I wouldn't, but that's just me.
   
   So in total it'd be somewhere in the range of $1500 including monitor, OS, case, and keyboard. The system itself is around $1000. But you can perhaps knock off a hundred bucks or two by shopping around and looking for where you can buy these parts cheaper than Amazon.
   
   But again: investing in a good monitor and case can be worth it. It means you won't have to replace it if/when you do upgrade. And worst case scenario you can offload your monitor as a side/secondary monitor when you upgrade your monitor to a new one.

Also 17.99 on amazon

What's the difference between the 450BV and the 450BT?

• Ryzen 5 1600 + Gigabyte B450-DS3H $120 at Microcenter
  
• 32GB (2x16GB) RAM ~$130
  
• Cache: 256GB NVMe drive ~$45
  
• Capacity: 1TB SSD w/DRAM ~$110
  
• used Broadcom 57810 10gb NIC ~$25
  
• USB stick for ESXi ~$8
  
• PCIe x1 video card ~$40 (you only need 1 for initial config because that mobo will boot ESXi headless)
  
• 80+ Bronze PSU ~$45
  
• optional dirt cheap case ~$20
  
• 10gb DAC cable ~$15
  
• 4 port 10gb switch ~$145
  
  Estimated Total $1736 +tax and shipping
  
  There're a few areas you could scrimp to get to $1500. This is basically my build, but I went with 4 nodes, a bigger switch, and a cheap 4 pack of longer cables (10gtek's 4 packs have a decent discount). If the price of the Intel 660p has your attention for multiple capacity drives, I suggest an x470 or x570 mobo that can do x4x4x4x4 bifurcation on the x16 slot and then use a quad m.2 board without a PCIe switch for them (ones from ASUS and ASrock are ~$100 which can negate any cost savings). There are boards with a PCIe switch that will work with the above board, but they're very expensive.
  
  If you get a MikroTik switch, use RouterOS because SwOS apparently has bugs beyond what I experienced. If you get one of their PoE switches, be careful with non-PoE devices. Mine was working fine, but I triggered a bug in SwOS and it toasted some gear; I need to have a conversation with MikroTik and the seller to see what can be done about what got toasted.

Use an Elgato capture tool and record yourself with green screen.

Prices on the 1070 are jacked right now - they were $330 on May 1 and $480 $430 on amazon today???

Edit: sample: https://camelcamelcamel.com/EVGA-GeForce-GAMING-Support-08G-P4-5173-KR/product/B01KVZBNY0

Then you are running a huge fire hazard. Here is link to the psu im using: https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG
Mosfets can be found on amazon/ebay aswell. Marlin is free software and soldering just need a soldering iron and your skills. I would not recommend you to use it before you do these upgrades.

When you have done these upgrades, then you can start to troubleshoot the other problems. I am sorry, but I do not know what's causing the sounds.

2nd picture, rectangular chip, 4th silver connector on right side down, burnt connection and chip

You should check with the seller for a replacement power supply first, otherwise

https://tiny-machines-3d.myshopify.com/products/highest-quality-replacement-power-supply-for-creality-cr-series-machines

or this should work from amazon but it won't fit in the box according to the reviewer, still 18.99

https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Since you're looking at an Oculus Rift, see the following knowledge base article: https://support.oculus.com/hc/en-us/articles/214829648-Error-My-computer-does-not-have-the-recommended-USB-ports

A lot of third party USB 3.0 has been flagging as incompatible. However, Oculus has been recommending this Inateck card.

Better link to the 5-port: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIMICA/

> If i get a USB 3.0 hub, and plug it into USB 2.0 port on my PC will that work with the oclulus set up?

No. You're still limited by USB 2.0 speeds. You can buy a PCIe expansion card. Oculus recommend this http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA

Any of the Inateck series should work (I have the 5 port one).

Well the other day Rasberry Pi 3 Model B was $28 w/ free Shipping so:

Raspberry Pi- $28

32GB SD card- $13

2.5A Power Supply- $10

Heatsinks- $5

Case- $8

HDMI Cable- $7

_____

Total- $ 71

I'd say it's an okay deal. I'd rather buy it bundled anyway, just so it all arrives at once.

>B/O 6700k

>offers this

For someone just starting out I think the first, best thing you can do is head on over to https://pcpartpicker.com/list/.

It's a system builder that lists parts, allows you to search through products and price out a virtual build before you start buying.

One good thing is that is check for compatibility between the different parts you choose so you don't run into any trouble. Like if you start off by picking an AMD processor when you go to search for a motherboard it will only list AMD boards (instead of Intel boards) and only boards that work with that chip.

So it's a great resource for first time builders to start getting a better understanding of the parts they need.

As far as MicroCenter it's hands downs the best place to go to buy your CPU & motherboard because of the combo deal. Check their website for some of the other parts you need because they might also offer a discount with those, for things such as SSDs, GPUs, and ram.

But I would also look around (for parts other than your CPU & mobo) on sites like Amazon and Newegg to try and find the best price for your chosen parts.

WARNING: Never buy a monitor from Newegg. Their return policy is garbage, you need to have something like 8 dead pixels for them to do a return. For other items though you can sometimes find good deals.

Also start browsing around on /r/buildapcsales. You'll see some deals but also be sure to read the comments. You'll get on the ground insight from users as to what the good products and the good companies are. I knew nothing about building PCs when I started and I learned almost everything passively just by browsing that sub every day while I looked for deals on parts I needed.

Right now $1500-$2000 can get you a very beefy machine, but there are a lot of choices you're going to have to make as far as what type of machine you want to build.

And I think the first question needs to be do you want to prioritize performance or aesthetics. Now that might sound silly but building your first PC is going to open Pandora's box and once you join the community and start seeing other people's builds there's a good chance you'll find yourself dreaming of having your own glass box with pretty lights one day.

Check out /r/battlestations to see what I'm taking about. You'll see some gorgeous machines there.

Now building a nice looking machine doesn't mean you'll be running a piece of under powered crap, it just means that, staying within a budget, sometimes you'll shave a little off the top in terms of overall performance for something that might make you smile when you look at it. Like spending a bit extra on some 3200Mhz RGB ram modules over some 3600Mhz non RGB sticks. One is faster and cheaper, one is a bit slower and much prettier.

Aesthetics are very important to some people, so ask yourself if you care about that. If you don't that works too! You can put the extra money towards more performance and shove all your shit into a windowless black box that you never have to see.

After that you're going to need to figure out which type of CPU you want, Intel or AMD. The chasm of competition and fanboy-ism that separates these two is as wide as Mac vs PC. Here Intel is Mac and AMD is PC. Intel is the powerful, fancy, over priced company with very good products and some very shitty anti-consumer practices. AMD is the cheeky underdog upstart that does a lot of things better and for much cheaper but also can be plagued with issues.

For someone just starting out I would suggest buying the entry level CPU for the current generation of chips. For Intel I think that would be the i5 9600k (don't quote me on that, I know less about Intel than AMD) and for AMD I would suggest looking at the Ryzen 5 3600x. I'm suggesting the slightly more expensive version of their base model because it comes with a better stock cooler and it's slightly faster right out of the box without having to manually tune it which might be difficult for a beginner.

Now there are more powerful, more expensive CPUs you can buy that have more CPU cores, but mostly these don't really benefit gaming all that much. You're usually much better off spending extra money on on your GPU since that is what is going to power your games.

For GPUs it's a very similar story of competition, except here it's AMD (yes they make GPUs too) vs NVidia. Same story though with NVidia playing the part of Mac. These are a little harder to blindly recommend without knowing more about your build (like what type of monitor you want) but I'll give you three safe options.

• The 1660 Ti ($250-300) An NVidia card, a pretty solid choice for playing games on Ultra settings at 1080p resolution. Frame rates vary by game but expect to see 75-95 FPS consistently. They can also run 1440p but it will be more work, your card will run hotter and louder (because they fans will spin up to keep cool) and average about 50-60 FPS.
  
  
• The 2060 Super. ($400 - $480) Another NVidia card. A lot more card for a lot more money. Great for games at 1080p averaging over 100 FPS and also do well in 1440p around 80 FPS. NVidia cards also have a feature called Ray Tracing which models light and reflections much better than standard and makes everything look very pretty and natural. The problem is it's a BIG performance hit and not many games make use of it right now. It's the technology of tomorrow, not today, so decide if it's worth gettin' in on that early.
  
  
• The 5700 Series. ($370 - $460) Our first AMD cards. This is the brand new line up from AMD, only about a month old. There's the 5700 and the 5700 XT models. 5700 XT is more powerful and typical $50-$60 bucks more, worth it if you ask me, but the 5700 will get you close if you need the savings. These cards will play the shit out of games at 1080p, hitting 130-150FPS easy. When we start talking about monitors you'll hear the magic number 144Hz/144FPS from a lot of enthusiast gamers/builders. This is apparently the Nirvana of frame rates where shit looks butter smooth and it's so orgasmic technically it counts as losing your virginity if you haven't done that yet. Personally I don't get the hype but I have kinda bad vision so I'm not the best person to talk to about that. From AMD you can also look in to the RX 580 and the RX 590 series, which are probably comparable to the 1660 Ti for maybe a little bit cheaper?
  
  Now comes the question of monitors. I did another right up all about monitors that breaks down the basics. It should give you a solid base of understanding a show you the relation between your monitor and you GPU, basically you don't want to spend a whole lot on a fancy monitor that can display a game at 144 FPS if you buy a less expensive GPU that can only run the game at 80 FPS. You also need to decide on size, smaller screens with lower resolution will need less powerful GPUs to get good FPS, larger screens and higher resolutions need something more powerful. Once you start to know more about what you want you can find the sweet spot balance between your monitor and you GPU.
  
  Gonna end there cause I'm sure that's a lot to take in.
  
  Feel to to PM with any questions and enjoy your first build!

That's pretty good ST performance. The i7-8700k at around 4.7GHz has a CB score of 1447 (MT), 208 (ST).

So a slight dip in single-threaded performance for individual cores but a massive gain in multi-core performance.

I believe they are supposed to be in the same price range so it's definitely a good value in comparison to Intel.

The Russian price is 23,050 Russian Ruble which is approximately $396.46 US Dollar at current exchange rates. Russia automatically includes 18% sales tax on the price. So $396.46 / 1.18 gives us $335.98 without any taxes.

For my area sales tax would be 9.5% so I would have to pay $367.90.

Comparatively an i7-8700k is $349.99 on average. Though Amazon right now has dipped in the past 2 hours to $329.00. I'll just estimate based on both. $383.24 and $360.26 respectively.



AMD Ryzen 2700X(OC 4.4GHz) | Intel Core i7-8700K(OC 4.7 GHz)
--------------------------|-------------------------------
ST: 186 | ST: 208
MT: 2004 | MT: 1447
Cost(Pre-Tax): $335.98(Estimate) | Cost(Pre-Tax): $329.00-$349.99

Both Amazon and Walmart are currently selling them new for $313.05. Have to pay tax on them though.

Amazon
Walmart

> Your CPU and motherboard are 2 generations behind, and nobody wants to buy a 7000 series chip unless absolutely dirt cheap, not when the 8000 and 9000 series exist with 2 more physical cores for almost the same price. Change that to an 8700k for best value.

So, would this CPU work fine?

​

>Asus makes strix motherboards with built in 802.11ac adapters. If you need wifi, just get one of those. Even has a fully repositionable antenna. I have one, works great.

​

And this motherboard?

$56 normally, was $44 on Amazon, and now further decreased to $42.

I believe it's the cheapest LGA1151 motherboard you can buy.

You can probably still manage with the old PSU, but upgrading would definitely serve you well. My suggestion would be the [EVGA 650 GQ] (https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Modular-Crossfire-Warranty-210-GQ-0650-V1/dp/B017HA3SQ8/), good efficiency and around $75

I setup and produced a setup similar to this. Here's what I used on a budget to get pretty fantastic quality IMO.

Two Sony A6000 ~$600 each

Roland V-1HD video swithcher ~$974

Elgato HD60s capture card ~$160

That's ~$2,600 but you'll still need a decently spec'd laptop, camera mounts, cables, etc.

Here's a link to the podcast so you can see the quality.

I also used a Atomos Ninja Flame and a Teradek Vidiu Pro, but those are unnecesasry for the end goal. The Ninja Flame is great for back up recording and real time color-correction, but also is an extra $700 or so...

Good luck!

Not sure what your definition of cheap is but the Elgato ones are probably the easiest to use:

HD60 - $150

HD60s - $180

The Elgato HD60S is very popular for 1080p HDMI capture, and is about as cheap as you'll get without going to no-name Chinese brands. If you want 4K support for future-proofing you'll need to spend a bit more.

Without question the Cooler Master Hyper 212+. You can get it for 30$, and there's simply nothing that can compete with it in value.

Ever heard of saving your money? $40 is quite a bit and adds up quickly if it's a recurring amount.

For $40 though, it's more of being able to upgrade parts that you might get. an i5-7500 vs an i5-7600k is a $40 difference.

Upgrading from a regular cpu fan to watercooling is <$40.

Although mining has ruined the prices, upgrading from a gtx 1050 to a 1050ti is <$40

8GB of ram is just over $40.

You can get a much better deal than that getting the parts yourself.

• 8 GB G.Skill Ripjaws = $44
  
• Cooler Master 912 Case = $50 microcenter
  
• XFX 750w Black Edition = $115 amazon ($120 - 40 MIR @ microcenter if you can find it)
  
• Cooler Master 212+ CPU cooler = $20
  
• Seagate Momentus XT 500GB SSD Hybrid - $90
  
• EVGA 560 ti = $215
  
• i5 2500k = 179.99 @ Microcenter
  
• ASRock P67 Ext 4 Gen 3 = 165-50 instant combo w/ 2500k = $115
  
  Total = $815 bux (before tax for in store items)
  
  edit: i put that list together real quick - you could probably find better deals for the video card if you look around. That's the exact same build I got except I went with the 560 ti 448. You dont need i7 either the 2500k = 2600k minus HT. 2500k is pretty much all the power you need for a kick ass machine.

Your friends psu was for sure 100% good ? Check for 12v and 5v coming from yours. You can get a tester for this on amazon for about 12$. https://www.amazon.com/Insten-24-pin-Power-Supply-Tester/dp/B005CTCD6S

• Raspberry Pi 3 - $35
  
• Slick case with heat sinks - $6
  
• 5v 2.5a power supply - $10 (or free if you already have one)
  
• 8GB Micro SD Card - $7 (or free if you already have one)
  
• RasPlex OS - (free)
  
  Maximum Total: $58
  
  That would give you a full-fledged Plex client with all the features you mentioned (I think--someone jump in here if I'm wrong).

Look for a label bearing a reassuring phrase, such as, "Probably won't burst into flames."

You want something rated for at least 2.5 amps. (2500 mA, 2.5A)

https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/hardware/raspberrypi/power/README.md

https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4

http://www.raspyfi.com/the-best-raspberry-pi-power-supply/

http://www.raspyfi.com/power-supply-for-raspberry-pi-what-you-should-know-about/

Here

Yo uso Logical Increments como guia.

GTX 1060 6GB o RX 480 para jugar ahora y un par de años en high/ultra 1080p.

La GTX 1070 es para 1440p ahora, si pensas armar con monitor de 4k o 144hz sería lo mejor, si vas por uno con freesync la 480 sin pensarlo.

Fijate que EVGA de Nvidia hubo quilombo con los thermal pads

• GTX 1060 6GB por $260
  
  > MSI GAMING / Gigabyte WINDFORCE van bien.
  
  
• RX 480 8GB por $245
  
  > ASUS ROG STRIX (mejor cooling) / MSI GAMING (la más silenciosa)
  
  > XFX GTR (para oc) / Sapphire NITRO+ (mejor perf sin tocar nada)

Amazon has the same price if they're tax-free for you. In stock this Friday, January 6th, however.
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-GAMING-Support-08G-P4-5173-KR/dp/B01KVZBNY0

Also available on Amazon for the same price: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-Warranty-Supply-100-BT-0450-K1/dp/B01N9X3F8F

Everytime this PSU goes on sale I make sure to buy a few of them for my builds because it's such a good deal. If you have any questions about it I'll be happy to answer :)

They're easy enough to make to be honest.

Just need a 12v power supply and an induction heating module Then it's just a case of wiring it up, which is simple enough. The only bit you'll need to solder is the actual heating coil to the induction board and that's only 2 solder points so definitely minimal. put a switch on the induction heater so that it's not always on and it'll be functional. Then it's just a case of housing the parts in a nice box. If you want detachable leads then there are a few different connectors you can use but they will require more soldering. Personally I like xt60 connectors as they're easy to solder.

• MOSFET: https://www.amazon.com/Wangdd22-Printer-Expansion-Heatbed-Current/dp/B01MY50JL3
  
• Belt: https://www.amazon.com/Anycubic-Meters-Timing-Pulleys-Printer/dp/B0152ZNDLK
  
• Pulleys: https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Bearing-Timing-3D-printers/dp/B0188HW4Z0 (ships as bag of two which is exactly what is needed)
  
• Igus DryLin bushings: https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Solid-Polymer-LM8UU-Bearing/dp/B06XPRCMJS (is a pack of 7 as needed for the A8)
  
• PSU (just as an example): https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG
  
  All the parts listed above can be sourced cheaper, but that were the links I had at hand.

You only need two USB 3.0 ports for the Rift and sensor:

1x 3.0 USB port for the headset

1x 3.0 USB port for the 3D Positional Tracker

1x 3.0 USB port for Oculus Touch (available at a later date)

1x 2.0 USB port for Xbox wireless controller


The other USB port is for an additional sensor for Oculus Touch so you'll be fine for some time.

This is the PCI-E expansion card Oculus suggests: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA/

Are you talking about this card?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIMICA

The 4 port one is actually recommended by Oculus

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

I initially bought that 5 port card too and had nothing but trouble with it and the Rift. I think the host controllers are daisy chained together. So it has a quite bad bottle neck for all that sensor data (see Oculus blog posts at end of this post).

PCI Bus
---- Host Controller
--------USB Ports
--------Host Controller
------------USB Ports

I ended up giving up on that card and getting the 4 port one with one host controller. All my issues went away. I only have my two front USB 3.0 sensors plugged into the 4 port Inatek and nothing else. The Rift headset is plugged into the motherboard and my two other USB 2.0 sensors are plugged into the motherboard. The 5 port one I just use for various USB accessories like HOTAS, steering wheel, MS Wireless dongle.

If you are wanting one card for all your Rift accessories. You might want to go with the Startek cards. They are more expensive but have more controllers on them and are approved by Oculus.

Supported StarTek 4 port card (2 Controllers) – Optional top of the range PCI card solution which can run all four sensors or 3 sensors and HMD. Equivalent to two Inatek cards.

https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00HJZE9VK

Supported StarTek 4 port card (4 Controllers) – Optional top of the range PCI card solution which can run all four sensors or 3 sensors and HMD. Equivalent to four Inatek cards.

https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00HJZEA2S

What you could try

My initial recommendations would be try just plugging two sensors into your existing card and nothing else. Follow the blog post part 3 below and make sure you are not using USB ports on the card that might be daisy chaining through two host controllers. See how that goes.

or

Use the 5 port card for non VR accessories and try to find a good combination of USB ports from your motherboard for the Rift's sensors and HMD.

What I would do if I was you

Don't battle your issues and just get the 4 port inatek or one of the Startek cards above. Your time should be spent in VR and not stuffing around with trying to get this card working. I wasted far too much time on it. When I went with another card there were zero issues.

Keep the 5 port card and just use it for accessories. You haven't wasted your money there.

Oculus blog posts on tracking

Part 1: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-tips-for-setting-up-a-killer-vr-room/

Part 2: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-balancing-bandwidth-on-usb/

Part 3: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-identifying-host-controllers/

Part 4: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-extra-equipment/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCE8T92/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MG0733A/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4OM9R4/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A1ZTZOG/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ARHBBPS/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RORBQNW/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SDR4/

--

Pentium g4560 on a H270 board

GTX 1050 (non-ti)

120GB SSD

8GB RAM

430W EVGA PSU

Corsair Carbide case


$517 total

And now I regret not using pcpartpicker and just setting it to US & Amazon..

Substitute this PSU and I think it's a great build.

I would say an Elgato, https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Game-Capture-HD60-technology/dp/B01DRWCOGA/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1487640919&sr=1-1&keywords=elgato+game+capture+hd

Comparing from 2 different sites, one from Singapure and another from US?

The price in Amazon is for I7 8700k is $349.99... actually cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-8700K-Desktop-Processor-Unlocked/dp/B07598VZR8/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=8700k&qid=1564166413&s=gateway&sr=8-1

There a really easy way to verify this.

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-BX80684I78700K-Core-i7-8700K-Processor/dp/B07598VZR8

Crazy-good CPUs

324€ on amazon.es
https://www.amazon.es/Intel-i7-8700K-3-7GHz-Smart-Cache/dp/B07598VZR8

https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Crossfire-Motherboard-B450-Tomahawk/dp/B07F7W5KJS/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3QBDTDUECIKY6&keywords=b450+tomahawk+motherboard&qid=1562509688&s=gateway&sprefix=b450+Toma%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-1

Setup was a bit difficult. Purely because I have the 2015 rMBP 13", which is notorious for boot issues with eGPU's. Check this page which has compatibility reports on all Thunderbolt Macs: https://support.bizon-tech.com/hc/en-us/articles/210709789-Mac-compatibility-list
For other Macs it is as easy as downloading drivers and restarting (Windows). And for the Mac setup (if you want it) its as easy as installing eGPU script on the Mac side and rebooting (after you disable SIP). The 1070 won't fit unless you buy a PCIe raiser cable, and an external PSU. However the 1060 will fit if you get the single fan version. Again you will need a different PSU, see https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-06G-P4-6161-KR/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495243716&sr=1-2&keywords=1060

Better off getting ($125.46 before tax
.. used, 6GB single fan) https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01IPVSGEC/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all

If you think this is fake, then here you go
https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-06G-P4-6161-KR/product-reviews/B01IPVSGEC/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_hist_1?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&reviewerType=all_reviews#reviews-filter-bar

Same price on Amazon, but free same day shipping if you have prime and not having to deal with Newegg in case something goes wrong.

Do I get the 1070 for 289$? is that a good deal?

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-GAMING-Support-08G-P4-5173-KR/dp/B01KVZBNY0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1539505586&sr=1-1&keywords=evga%2B1070&th=1

If you prefer 80 Plus bronze, there is EVGA BT 450W on sale for $39.99 at amazon.ca

https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-Bronze-Warranty-Supply-100-BT-0450-K1/dp/B01N9X3F8F/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523121925&sr=8-1&keywords=evga+450bt

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD FX-8350 4.0GHz 8-Core Processor | Purchased For $178.88
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | Purchased For $22.99
Motherboard | Asus M5A97 LE R2.0 ATX AM3+ Motherboard | $68.99 @ Newegg
Memory | Corsair XMS3 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | Purchased For $37.00
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $69.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | HIS Radeon HD 7850 2GB Video Card | $163.98 @ Newegg
Case | Rosewill REDBONE ATX Mid Tower Case | $44.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Cooler Master GX 450W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V Power Supply | $29.99 @ Newegg
Keyboard | Rosewill RK-201 Wired Standard Keyboard | $5.99 @ Amazon
Other| 3Lue Red Mouse| $10.00
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $607.80
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-06-18 04:44 EDT-0400 |

Use Amazon Warehouse deals on the 8350 and the RAM.

8350 Warehouse Deal

XMS3 Warehouse Deal

3lue Mouse

Used 212+

Really, the rest of this build seems pretty self-explanatory. It's an 8350, man!

Also, this is a very nice motherboard. I have the 990FX version of it, and it has given me no problems whatsoever.

Are you gonna liquid cool? I ask because that case is generally for liquid cooling. The airflow of that case it not that great. Here's another option, a lot better suited for air cooling: HAF X.

For CPU cooler, here's a pretty good one, the Hyper 212 Plus. It's not much more than the one you listed and it's regularly considered one of the best air coolers, especially for the price. If you can, try to pick up a 2nd 120 mm fan and do push/pull with it.

Also if you are doing serious heavy duty video editing, I'm always a proponent of getting as much RAM as you can. May want to think about getting the 16 gb kit.

Besides that it looks pretty good. Some might say it'd be better (and cheaper) to get 2 Samsung F3 1 tb drives and run it in RAID. Also there's people out there who might have some issue with the 590 card (either say it's overkill, or better to get two 580s) but I don't have a particularly strong stance on either position so I'll leave that to them.

Just a sidenote though, if you can afford to add it to your system, I'd highly recommend getting a SSD as a boot drive/program drive. It was the most noticeable change I ever got from a single component upgrade. I'd recommend at least a 128 gb if you're gonna put all your programs + windows on it. You could probably get away with 64 gb but you'd always have to be super frugal about space. My personal recommendation is the Crucial M4. Just make sure you update the firmware to revision 9 before you start installing anything on it (google it, it's super easy to do).

EDIT: Also was looking at your motherboard. From everything I could see, this Gigabyte board seems to be pretty much the same features wise and cheaper to boot.

Cooler Master Hyper 212+

I currently have a Phenom II x4 965 C2 stepping (the hottest running one) with a mild overclock to 3.6 GHz. Temps on idle are around 30 C in my terribly cooled room, and never go above 48 C on load. I also bought Arctic Silver Ceramique to go along with it, but the thermal paste that comes with the cooler should be fine. It's also very quiet.

If you still get no video output when using the motherboard vga then it's either the PSU or the motherboard.

Power supplies can turn on, make fans spin etc but still be broken. If you are not in a hurry to get it fixed, here is a simple, cheap but essential tool you can order online to tell if the PSU is working:
Power Supply Tester

If the PSU is bad, it is probably worth it to replace it. If the mobo is bad then the cheapest way would be for you to replace it yourself.

If you take it to a shop you should call a few places and get quotes. My guess is somewhere in the $150 - $300 price range depending on the mobo and what they charge for labor.

Once you know the quoted cost of repair you can decide if it's worth fixing or replacing.

Yes I did, used 99% alcohol cleaned the area. I'm chalking this cooler up to garbage. Got H60 coming in next-day. So it will take the rest of this weekend off powered down. I will be praying to PCMR gods to forgive my trespasses buying that miserable CPU cooler and allowing it to unravel itself.

Stand by.

This build looks good. I built myself a similar rig last year, and it performs well. I basically agree with everything /u/MrTesla said, mutatis mutandis.

• If you want to perform GPU computing just make sure this GPU is CUDA-enabled.
  
  
• I'd get a 1 TB solid state; they are only ~$250 if you went with Crucial instead of Samsung.
  
  
• I have that same CPU cooler. It looks awesome in pictures, when it's by itself, but in retrospect I wish I would have went with something much smaller and simpler. The problem is that it's a brick, and will stick out directly normal from your CPU, and takes up a ton of space. Let me take a picture of mine... here ya go. It makes cable management and everything else happening around your mobo more difficult. If you go with something like this Corsair Hydro, you get the same copper plate with liquid cooling, but move the fan element out of center of the tower, to a location where it should be. I'd highly consider this since you are only going with a mid, and not full tower.
  
  
• I like the modular PSU, but I'd almost want to beef that up a little, to like 800W.
  
  
• CPU looks good. For $50 more you get a decent benchmark bump for the 3.6 i7-6850K. Then again, you might have already said that, a few times.
  
  Overall though, pretty solid build. MATLAB is just an excuse to build this right? No shame in that. When it comes time to actually use MATLAB for analyses I would highly recommend converting whatever you can to MEX files. Like MrTesla mentioned, MATLAB is not the fastest tool available, and may not be the right tool if you're concerned about how long it will take to process your data. Optimizing the lang/software/code used to process your data will result in speed-ups orders of magnitude greater than simply running the same code on a more powerful machine. I experienced this first-hand; I was simulating particle diffusion on ruffled membranes in matlab using standard functions. To run one simulation (~20k steps for 1k particles) it would take about 10 minutes. I went out and build a new rig, and it went down to ~6 min. I converted some of my functions to MEX/C and it dropped to about 45 seconds.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG

Keeps it all at ~12.5V. I managed to get one screw into it to hold it where the old one used to go.

Also get the mosfet to run the bed power completely independently of the controller board for another $10:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HEQVQAK/

Use some ~14ga lamp cord to tie it in. :)

What power supply are you using?

I experienced freezes with my Pi 3 until I got the recommended power adapter, which puts out 2.5A @ 5V (a very non-standard configuration for a USB power supply, I might add, so if you're using a generic power adapter, you're likely not giving the Pi the power it's asking for).

Here's the recommended power supply. Might wanna take a look at the one you're using and see if it's rated for 2.5A.

I have yet to encounter any problems with this one.

the most important thing is the SD card. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Class-Micro-Adapter-MB-MC32DA/dp/B00WR4IJBE/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495118025&sr=1-6&keywords=Samsung+Micro+SD+EVO%2B also a proper power supply: https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495118069&sr=1-3&keywords=pi+power+supply

I don't know much about graphics cards, but aren't the GeForce 900 series DX12?


Unless DX12 "ready" differs from DX12 "support".

I've never seen one of these threads, so my build is not new, but I'm game to join in.

Last year, I built this NAS that serves as my Plex machine: https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/drop.emily.st/DSC02173.jpg

I built it from

• a barebones Shuttle SZ170R8 system,
  
• added an Intel i7 6700K processor,
  
• a 32 GB of 2133 MHz CL14 DIMM DDR4 RAM,
  
• a Samsung 850 EVO (500GB) M.2 SATA III SSD, and
  
• two WD Red 8TB drives.
  
  I can't remember how much it all ran at the time, but it was something a little over a thousand. I installed CentOS on it, and the hard disk drives are using a ZFS filesystem.

my computer is currently dying (i think) but it's ok i was planning on updating the cup and stuff but if anyone has some advice i'd appreciate it, currently going to go from a phenom II to an i7 and upgrading my tiny ssd to a 500gb because i'm pretty sure half of my issues are coming from low disk space.

but yeah advice and stuff is welcome as i struggle to find stuff to delete from my computer ;=;

I decided to try building an entry PC based on the sales on this site, this is what i have so far.

This ebay coupon still works for me – $20 off $75 ebay purchase

Part|Choice|Store|Cost|Thread
:--|:--|:--|--:|:--
CPU|I3-6100.|Ebay|$156-$36=$120|Thread
Mobo|Gigabyte GA-H110M-A|Amazon|$65-$10= $55|Thread
Ram|8GB DDR4 2400Hz|Amazon|$75-$25= $60|None.
GPU|GTX 1050Ti|Ebay.|$215-$45=$170|Thread
Case|Bitfenix Comrade Black Window ATX Mid|NCIX|$104-$69= $35|None
PSU|Corsair Builder Series Modular CX550M|Canada Computers|$90-$15-$20MIR= $55|Thread
Drive|250GB 850 evo SSD|Newegg.ca|$190-$80=$110|None
Total| | |$505-$20MIR=$485|


I used the GTX 1050Ti because people at this pricerange (Like myself) just want good cheap 1080p@60hz performance, without worrying too much about stats, or $/FPS ratios. I did see a couple other options though, either up or down ~$50 will both get you great cards for the money, letting you fiddle with the build to match your budget.

Part|Choice|Store|Cost|Thread
:--|:--|:--|--:|:--
GPU|Zotac GTX 1050 Mini|The Source|$150-$25Coupon=$125|Thread
GPU|Asus Strix RX 470|Canada Computers|$275-$15-$30MIR=$230|Thread


For people who don’t have a PC already, or even just want to upgrade

Part|Choice|Store|Cost|Thread
:--|:--|:--|--:|:--
Monitor|Samsung 22” FHD TN | Visions.ca|$180-$81=$99|Thread
OS|Windows 10 free trial|Microsoft.com|$0|None|
HDD|Seagate Baricuda 7200RPM|NCIX|$150-$50=$100|Thread

I used the free trial for about 6 months while saving up after buying my PC, everything works fine as long as you’re ok with not being able customize, and having a watermark in the bottom right. Unless they patched it, you can even change the wallpaper through the browser.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0165YUDTM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

410€ for 3700x,
320€ for 3600x,
263€ for 3600...
WTF Amazon?
http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:https://www.amazon.de/AMD-Ryzen-3700x-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07SXMZLPK
http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:https://www.amazon.de/AMD-Ryzen-3600x-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07SQBFN2D
http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:https://www.amazon.de/AMD-Ryzen-3600-Cache-Wraith/dp/B07STGGQ18

I combined this power supply with this switch combo bolted down inside an ammo can as my charging setup and charger case. If you have a drill and a Dremel, you can easily do the same. That supply gives you 30 amps of 12 volts with three separate outputs. So you could run 3 of those Accucel chargers at max power, in theory.

I just spent the last week buying and printing upgrades for my new A8... I'm also new to 3D printing. Its been printing great so far.

Purchased;
Mosfet: $10 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XP4YZ9N
GT2 Belts: $9 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F0G4144
30A PSU: $20 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/
Power Socket w/ Switch & Fuse: $5 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK
Printed;
Extruder Buton: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1935151
T Corner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1672959
Anti Z Wobble: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1858435
Y Belt Tensioner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2149867
X Belt Tensioner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2354736
Z Endstop Fine Adjustment: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1776429

I have those and find them to be flaky garbage for vive, replaced with

http://smile.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA

Which is what Oculus also recommends.

edit- and yes it fixed my issues with the camera etc

A "550W" with split 12v rails that only output a combined 384W with different amps on each rail? That's generally not a good sign.

Imo, $25 on this is a better deal ; https://smile.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0430-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4/

Or the $35 on this : https://smile.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Warranty-Tester-100-B1-0450-K1/dp/B01F5LX55K

From your other topic for anyone else interested in this kind of project:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD A6-6400K 3.9GHz Dual-Core Processor | $49.19 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-F2A68HM-H Micro ATX FM2+ Motherboard | $39.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $27.99 @ Amazon
Case | Rosewill Line-M MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $39.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA 430W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply | $29.85 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | ~$186.01
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-13 18:15 EDT-0400 |
That CPU has about 2.2k passmark score, enough for one 1080 stream (about 2k score per client). The 8gb ram is probably overkill, but it's cheap so why not. About 134 watt consumption if you run headless. Have fun :)

This is excellent information, thank you. It's been a bit overwhelming looking at all the mods out there which are a "definitely do this before you print anything or you'll burn your house down" and "this helps but can probably wait for now".

I've already soldered the wires to the heated bed and started installing a mosfet for the bed as well. (Sounds like one isn't really needed for the hot end?)


Do I need something like the 500w ATX PSU, or can I get away with something like this (recommended by the Punished Props Anet safety upgrade page)

Can you tell me more about that fix for the heater block with kapton tape? I saw it recommended that I switch to one of these? (recommended by the letsprint3d.net Anet safety mods page)

This. My power supply was dead on arrival and wouldn't fire up. The ones that ship with the kit are kinda crap.

Bought this one on Amazon and it's been great for 1.5 years.

eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Gmb4Cb8FSPKHQ

Only downside is it won't directly screw to the frame. I have mine sitting next to the printer.

I've done similar to several old drills. Usually adapting to run on car batteries.

You want to use the plus and minus terminals, the other is a temperature sensor for the charger.

Making it so that you can still use the original battery is a little trickier. I've used a dowel as a dummy battery to hold the contacts in place on a Makita.

Drills will need a power supply that delivers about 10 amps. an old dumb battery charger will work. Or you can get something like this.

To answer your question directly:

12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_JgaFwbK9DGQ1E

Assuming your i3 is 12 volts not 24.

You should definitely replace it. I replaced my stock A8 PSU with this one: eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pye9AbCXGDZ5C

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D7CWSCG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1464231755&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=12+volt+power+supply+switching&dpPl=1&dpID=41uyGgXDhEL&ref=plSrch

Theres a pot you can adjust to bring the voltage up closer to 13.8. I dont have one but the reviews all looked pretty good.

Those are indeed 10W warm white LEDs.

It's been running 12/12 for about 3 weeks with no issues. The LEDs don't get as hot as the buck boosters I'm using to drive them to 11.2V each.

The power supply was basically this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

>5 months ago

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/

Powerwerx from HRO

.

Samlex from DXE

.

If you want to go cheap, you can try one of these from Amazon. You'll need to add things such as wiring up a power cord and putting it into an enclosure, twisting the pots to get the exact voltage you need, checking that voltage periodically, etc, etc. It does take some more work to make it all work. I have one of these, and it works. However, I also have a Powerwerx and I like that better.

.

Personally, I'd recommend the Powerwerx. You can optionally pop the cover off and bolt the TM-V71A bracket right to the PSU and wire the TM-V71A to the posts on the back. That leaves the powerpoles on the front to power other things.

It was the PSU! I replaced it with this one and now I'm printing again!

Don't forget to check the bed control board on the back wall of the control box. Mine arrived with a wire loose.

There are 4 wires, two thin ones that go to the control board, and two thicker ones direct to the power supply, very short distance.

Also UNPLUGGED you might check the screws and wires on the power supply, one may have come off and shorted somewhere.

If that's true, it blew the power supply. (Bad news)

Good news - they're cheap to replace.

Here's one on Amazon that works:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG

I looked closely at your pics and all looks OK, it's probably the power supply. Be happy, it's the least expensive thing in there!

Seriously, look for loose wires, the big ones that are screwed on, not the little ones with white plugs. Look both at the terminal block of the power supply and where those wires go into the motherboard.

If no joy there, (and just to be thorough) check the wires to the bed and turn the printer over and check the bed heater with good lighting. You'll know if you see a problem ....

Good Luck!

PuterPro

Yes it did.
I'm using this one.
http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

Would something like this suffice Inateck Superspeed 7 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - 5 USB 3.0 Ports and 2 Rear USB 3.0 Ports Express Card Desktop with 15 Pin SATA Power Connector, Including Two Power Cables (KT5002) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oOMEDb6Q51NRV

http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA is the reccomended usb card for those who does not have the required usb slots (Like me). I ordered one myself a few days ago actually.
Its pretty cheap and has 7 usb3 slots!
Its Oculus themselves who has it as reccomended on their support page btw.

Oops, sorry, posting from my phone at work.

Inateck Superspeed 7 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - Interface USB 3.0 5-Port & 2 Rear USB3.0 Port Express Card Desktop with 15 pin SATA Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_1xZM9AfOjkUAG

Oculus themselves link to this Amazon page, that has TWO versions. 2 slots and 4 slots; http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA and even say you just need the Fresco Logic FL1100EX chipset.

EDIT: I'm also perplexed by your argument in this case. If someone has an SLI setup, with no compatible on-board ports, their best option is to buy a new $1000 prebuilt rather than say, upgrade their motherboard for 1/4th - 1/5th the price?

Most / all high-end motherboards today are full PCIe, 3.0 and 2.0. I could fit 3 of these expansion cards into my current SLI setup.

Yep, I use this one for exactly that reason. Works great as long as you use the drivers automatically installed by Windows instead of the ones from the manufacture.

I also have Vive + Skype + Logitech camera (I think the same model as you).

What I found is that it was intermittently causing conflicts. The best fix was to unplug the Logitech when using Vive, and unplug the Vive USB when using the Logitech.

If you don't want to do that, then what I have found to be helpful, but not a perfect fix, is to make sure the two devices are on separate USB host controllers (So if Vive is on your front ports, put the camera on your back ports). This seemed to make things more reliable for me, but I would still have some random issues.

Another item that seemed to make it more reliable to me, though also not a complete fix, was to install an additional USB card to free up USB resources. With USB 3.0, it's easy to run out of USB resources, which will typically result in a momentary message from Windows when a USB device is first plugged in (And you may not see that message in time if you are bent over trying to see your ports). That can cause some USB devices to misbehave. I bought and installed this USB card, and have not had an issue since. (Using a USB hub did NOT fix such issues.)

Wait a minute! I redid the build using Amazon instead of PCPartPicker. Better build for cheaper. Give me a second!

Here is the build:

• Windows 7
  
• EVGA 430W Power Supply
  
• Western Digital Caviar Blue 1 TB HDD
  
• Rosewill Ranger-M Case
  
• EVGA GTX 750 Ti Superclocked
  
• Kingston HyperX Blu 8 GB RAM
  
• Gigabyte Motherboard
  
• AMD Athlon X4 760K CPU
  
• DVD Drive
  
  
  Comes to a grand total (with prime shipping) of $610.28!
  
  

I am not sure. I say just don't take the risk and buy a cheap PSU, there are many great budget PSUs for around $30 like this one.

550W is overkill for this. You could go with a 300W unit or whatever is cheaper.

$29 EVGA 430W 80+

For those that have amazon Prime, I'd hop on this. I just bought one and I don't have to deal with the MIR

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0430-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481315921&sr=8-2&keywords=430w+power+supply

• 2500k £160
  
  
• Hyper 212+ £27
  
  
• GTX 580 3gb x2 £800
  
  
• Asus P67 £127
  
  
• OS £78
  
  
• Ripjaws RAM £42
  
  
• Obsidian 800d £200
  
  
• 800w PSU £93
  
  That should run BF3 on ultra 1080p 60fps, so yeah it'll shit on any game. If your friend wants to spend that much purely for gaming then a 2600k and more than 16GB of ram is a waste. If he goes with an SLI set-up with a high end video card I'd strongly recommend at least 2 monitors otherwise you're not utilizing all of the card/s power. If not get a monitor with a high resolution. Total = £1550 w/ shipping and any other minor adjustments. You can get him the 2600k and 16GB of ram but it's his loss not your's.
  
  Note: I priced it up on Amazon because they are a good maker of pricing for components in the UK, you could probably find some parts cheaper.
  
  Edit: add an SSD if you like, they aren't for everyone. Personally i'd go with a 60gb good make one and stick OS and most played games on it; a 240gb one IMO if a big waste of money. But, each to their own.

For 20$ you should get a cooler master hyper 212+, it has a bigger fan (120mm vs. 92) and will easily allow you to reach the max "on air" overclock of that chip. The stock heatsink will easily allow 3.4 GHZ, possibly more. throw in a coolermaster 4 pack of 120mm case fans, put one on the other side of the hyper 212+, and three in the case. all your cooling needs taken care of for 30$ shipped

for 30$ you might as well get 2x4GB ram. these ones are great

the case and psu are good quality, though you can get the antec bp550w, which is modular, for 10$ more.

170$ for that video card seems pretty standard, with 140$ being even better if you get the rebate to come through.

Reading reviews of that mobo, it seems that the compatible ram list is pretty small, and ram issues seem to happen a lot to that board. in the 100$ range there are several am3+ mobo's which would fit your needs. I suggest going with one that has 2 pci-e x16 slots and runs them at (x16, x8) in crossfire or sli. the one you currently have is x16,x4 which will give less performance if you sli/crossfire down the road. if you don't think you'll crossfire, don't worry about that.

>i7 860

LGA 1156?

The Cooler Master Hyper 212+ is cheap ($20) yet highly functional. The downside is that it's massive and might interfere with sticks of RAM if they have large heatspreaders.

Edit: Seriously? Downvoted for suggesting the most popular cooler amongst /r/buildapc users?

I'd go with a HAF 912 or Zalman Z9 case, as those have more features for the same price or less. And you can spend about ten more bucks and get twice the storage space.

Also, get the Hyper 212+ cooler. The TX3 is primarily a Core 2-era device.

Yeah I'd go with an Intel build at this price point as well. An i5-2400 at stock speeds still pretty handily beats even a 980, and I'm not sure you'd be able to close the gap by overclocking it a little more.

If you could fit a 2500k there wouldn't even be any contest, Intel would be the better cpu for sure.

Your questions:

• Should be enough to run BF3 on high and Skyrim on probably high/ultra
  
• I'm going to change this to a 2500k and a mobo that can overclock it
  
• 620w is definitely enough
  
• As long as you're willing to deal with having to ship it over internationally I don't think there's much of a problem; the most problem-prone parts would probably be.. the mobo or power supply? I don't really know tbh, the only one I would've worried about is the hard drive, but you only have an SSD in the build. I can't say if your case or monitor will come out in one piece though.
  
• I'll edit some changes in and I'll see what you think
  
  Edit: Here you go, a much much stronger cpu for only about $10 more.
  
  Part list permalink / Part price breakdown by merchant
  
  Type|Item|Price
  :----|:----|:----
  CPU | Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor | $179.99 @ Microcenter
  Motherboard | ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard | $122.86 @ Newegg
  Memory | Corsair 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory | $33.22 @ Amazon
  Hard Drive | Crucial M4 64GB 2.5" Solid State Disk | $105.00 @ B&H
  Video Card | HIS Radeon HD 6870 1GB Video Card | $139.99 @ Newegg
  Case | Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case | $49.88 @ Amazon
  Power Supply | Silverstone 600W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply | $68.98 @ NCIX US
  Optical Drive | Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $19.99 @ Newegg
  Monitor | Acer S231HLbid 23.0" Monitor | $154.99 @ Amazon
  Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (64-bit) | $99.99 @ Newegg
  | | Total
  | Prices include shipping and discounts when available. | $974.89
  | Generated 2011-12-26 23:14 EST-0500 |
  
  Add in a cheap $20 cooler like this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G1YPH0/?tag=pcpapi-20
  
  And for about $30 more, you get way more performance out of your build.

If you can get it for $30 get the Hyper 212+: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G1YPH0/?tag=pcpapi-20

92mm heatpipes are not nearly as effective as the 120mm ones. I would reccomend the hyper 212+

He does not have an AIO. He has traditional water cooling.

I'm just using a 25$ tower cooler with 4 heat pipes. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G1YPH0

The Liquid Metal thermal paste was about the same price as the cooler itself. I did this back when Liquid Metal was pretty much unheard of and impossible to find. Back when people just started experimenting with deliding their CPUs. It made a 30c difference which is enough to beat traditional water cooling on a non-delided CPU.

My voltage is 1.05 to 1.28 depending on load. For some reason it crashes if I hit 1.3v so I can't take it higher even though I have cooling headroom. I don't think the mobo can supply power reliably as the Package begins to draw near 100W. Right now it pulls up to 84watts. Here are the stats over the last 5 days

http://i.imgur.com/ZaAsn3n.png

You may notice core #0 is 10-12C less than the others. This use to be the typical temp, and core #2 use to always be the coolest of the 4. I noticed this happened after I moved and knocked over the PC. I need to re-apply the Liquid metal but I prolly realistically will never get to it.

Also may notice that I'm not techincally at 4.4Ghz, my real scheme is 4 cores @ 43x, 3cores @ 44x with a 101ish mhz base clock for 4343Mhz full load and 4467Mhz partial load. I have to use this scheme because of my power draw limitation. I think my chip would have been able to go a lot faster otherwise.

Sometimes your motherboard can get stuck in a weird state. Turn off the power at the power supply if it has a switch, if it doesn't, unplug the computer. Press the power button on the PC a few times with the power off/disconnected, then plug it back in/turn it back on and press the power button again.

If it still doesn't work, you might have a bad board or PSU. PSU testers are cheap and will help you narrow it down before you start replacing things.

There is a little tool you can order off amazon to check PSU power, but i forget the name. Lemme see if i can dig up a link

:edit: here ya go! Something like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CTCD6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2ZgHDbA853DHF

It's a very simple device that has a plugin for the PSU cables and checks the voltages.

Here is an example,

https://www.amazon.com/Insten-24-pin-Power-Supply-Tester/dp/B005CTCD6S

Something like https://www.amazon.com/Insten-24-pin-Power-Supply-Tester/dp/B005CTCD6S but his had a little LCD screen, and the model didn't have good reviews. Closer to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-jG3vqRQHM but still not what he showed me a picture of.

You could check continuity on each pin with a multimeter.
You could also use a Power Supply Tester like this one.

If you are going to Overclock, then YES you will need a 3rd party cooler.

Even at clock, my CPU was being throttled because of heat during heavy stress testing. Now, I never break 40 even at peak.

Here is what I got for my cooler. I run over clocked to 4.4 on my CPU and I never hit over 40 with this.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008N8GELA/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A lot of people also use this, but I can't personally speak on its behalf.
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B00A0HZMGA/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1394134989&sr=1-2&keywords=corsair+water+cooling

Corsair Hydro Series High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler H60 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0HZMGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vrAyxb5NMMCVA

Link to H60 http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Series-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B00A0HZMGA

So, the Pioneer GM-7200 is a Car Power Amp? Yes?

Does it have any controls on it - Crossover, Phase, Volume,....?

The thing you need is the controls I spoke of. If you do not have those, there may be a way around it, but it is going to give you limited flexibility.

If the amp is a Car Stereo Power Amp, then the first thing you will need is a beefy 12v Power Supply.

Current = Power / Voltage

So, 400w / 12v = 33.333 AMPS

You need about a 30 amp to 40 amp Power Supply.

Some thing along the line of this -

https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG

I make no claim for the quality of this power supply, it was simply the first one that came up on a search.

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=30a+12v+power+supply&safe=off&tbm=shop

If you have an AV Receiver, then we assume reasonably that it has Bass Management. Meaning, it will set the crossover frequency for the Sub.

So, that should cover the basics. When you run the Setup program for the AV Receiver, it should adjust the volume of the Sub to match the other speakers.

Steve/bluewizard

Just picked this up for a budget build.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N9X3F8F/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I wouldn't say so.

Looking at the 8700K in Europe, neither Amazon.co.uk, Amazon.de, Amazon.fr, Alternate or Mindfactory have it in stock. The US is similar, out of stock on Amazon.com & Newegg and most won't ship until 1-2 weeks.

These coupons are literally not worth it UNLESS you can't be asked to wait for online shipping or you are purchasing way above the coupon minimum.


Lets take a look at their Ryzen Line.


https://www.frys.com/product/9522092?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG 200$ for the 2600. With the promo coupon 160$


However online
https://smile.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B07B41WS48?_encoding=UTF8&%2AVersion%2A=1&%2Aentries%2A=0&ie=UTF8&pldnNewCustomer=1&ref_=smi_ge_cnf_cnf_smi


The same cpu is 164$.



But here in lies the issue. Now the cpu is 160$ NOT 199. Therefore you have to buy something else in order to get the coupon.


Lets take a different item.


https://www.frys.com/product/9339760?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG the i7-8700k is 370$. With the Promo its 296$. Which is amazing! Only problem its out of stock pretty much everywhere



https://smile.amazon.com/Intel-i7-8700K-Desktop-Processor-Unlocked/dp/B07598VZR8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1550638139&sr=8-4&keywords=i7+9700k

online its $360. So you are getting a massive discount, provided you are well above the minimum purchase for the most part.


TLDR: Coupon is only really vauable for items with a high coupon margin or if you cant be asked for shipping on low coupon margin

I can find it just fine. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07598VZR8/ref=twister_B07CN3RVTF?th=1

I have a couple things to say. Are you comfortable with overclocking? If so, i'd get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-8700K-Desktop-Processor-Unlocked/dp/B07598VZR8/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=8700k&qid=1556664196&s=gateway&sr=8-1&th=1
Also, one of the biggest features with the Z390 mobo is overclocking. If possible, step it down a bit on the motherboard (if you don't like overclocking).

Not really, an 8700K goes for sub-£300 now. I bought mine for £370 so it's already dropped around £80-100 since launch. I could easily see them moving 6C/12T to £250 to occupy the i5 K-series slot and the 8C/16T would launch for around £380.

Someone in S.korea asked Intel official and They said that only 100 retail boxes of Coffelake was released at S.Korea and We'll get enough supplies By 2017 December or 2018 January.

Due to unavailability in S.Korea, 8700K's price is skyrocketing toward 430~600 USD. What's making worse is that retailer in S.Korea is selling them only by expensive combo bundle.

I think, at this point, It's tough to get one in S.Korea. If you can use freight forwarder in Japan, You should try Amazon japan pre-order at below link(You have to use freight forwarder because they don't ship directly to S.Korea).

https://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B07598VZR8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Out of stock, I have found one on Amazon for £375 although I'm not sure how safe it is tbh. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07598VZR8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DH3ZZ3ENG10J&psc=1

Type|Amazon|3rd Party New
:---|:---|:---
Lowest|$299.99 on Jul 16, 2018|$309.99 on May 14, 2018
Highest|$419.99 on Nov 03, 2017|$600.00 on Nov 15, 2017

3C link

*****
I am a bot; please send comments/questions to github issues

github

I think even the US market is being hit. Look at the price trend on Amazon in the past week: https://camelcamelcamel.com/Intel-i7-8700K-Desktop-Processor-Unlocked/product/B07598VZR8?context=search

So it's either a case of switching to 9900/9700, production, or Intel is shifting product mix to server CPUs to fulfill increased CPU demand (someone else stated this point). If the former, then we'll have to see the market share over the next couple of months. If the latter, then that means Intel's statement about "hitting annual revenue projections" basically means they've given up market share given that the market demand for overall CPUs is above their initial estimates.

Personally, given Intel's 10nm production problems, I have no idea how they are going to be able to fab a server chip at that prices and have enough yield to supply the market demand at reasonable prices. If Zen 2 successfully delivers its 15% IPC increase and power savings, I actually think the 20% market share figure quoted by Intel is going to be what they themselves are left with.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B07F7W5KJS/ref=dp_olp_0?ie=UTF8&condition=all&qid=1575056757&sr=8-3

This is more accurate link. Make sure the seller is Amazon Warehouse, and remember that 20% discount is taken at check out.

I’d save a bit of money and go with a b450 board unless you absolutely need the pcie 4.0. this MSI tomahawk is good or this Gaming pro Carbon if you want wifi built in. The other things I’d swap is your ssd for an intel 660p. It’s cheaper and faster.

As for a cooler, with the black theme you’ve got going a dark rock pro 4 would look pretty sweet in there, just check compatibility with your memory for clearance.

Sharing my experience with the Tomahawk B450.

I bought it before reaching this subreddit.

List of parts bought on amazon:

Msi B450 Tomahawk

Ryzen 3600

Patriot Viper 16GB X2

Samsung NVME 1TB 970

Parts I had and reused for the build:

Zotac GTX 1060 6GB

Cooler master Master Box Case

Seasonic Modular PSU (will update later on the exact model)

Samsung 1TB HDD

Parts I bought for the Bios Flashing:

Amd AM4 Athlon 200GE with Vega geaphics

After reading some of the posts here and the updates I figured I would need an updated bios on my motherboard before connecting the 3600.

Failing to find a store/repair shop to do the bios upgrade for me I bought the cheapest AM4 I could find in my region (Israel) to do the flashing.

I assembled the PC with one RAM stick, the Athlon 200GE, No Cmos Battery, connected to the DVI port of the motherboard, inserted a USB stick with the latest Bios from the MSI website ( 7C02v1A ), started the built in flash utility of the Bios, and waited.

The flashing process took a while, so for everyone doing the flashing "blind" (with the button and the USB method) you should wait at least 10 minutes between tries.

After the process finished, I shut down the computer, unplugged the PSU, did a power release (Clicked the power button a bunch of times), and swaped the Athlon with the 3600.

Booted UP, looked at the leds on the motherboard....CPU...VGA....and stuck.

Thought maybe I failed to do anything right, and then remembered the 3600 doesnt have GPU built in.

Truned off the PC, unplugged the PSU, did a power release (Clicked the power button a bunch of times), and Inserted the GTX 1060.

Connected the DVI cable to the GPU, turned on the PC, waited for the leds. And voila, booting properly and going into bios.

​

At this point I shut down the PC again,unplugged the PSU, did a power release (Clicked the power button a bunch of times), and plugged the rest of the components (Another RAM stick, NVME, HDD, Wireless PCIE card), did all the cable management needed and closed the case.

​

Turned on the PC, got into Bios settings, changed some settings, mainly XMP, and booting options, and booted into the USB3 thumbdrive with WIN10 1903 install.

​

Finished installing the OS, booting into windows, sudden restart, then again, and again???????

Windows showing error "Windows failed to start"

Trying Safe mode, windows is stable, driver issue.

Reset Bios settings, windows is stable.

Changing settings 1 by 1:

XMP - Stable

Vitrualazation - Stable

​

Didn't pusue any more changes than that ATM.

​

PC is working fast, no issues so far.

Will update if anything changes.

​

TL;DR

My system works, I don't do any overclocking whatsoever, your mileage may vary.

I use this capture card on my laptop, and it works without a hitch. Software is pretty easy to use.

I have! I use this capture card and play switch games with it over virtual desktop. Works fine. Was even able to play the switch 'VR' games using full screen mode.

There's this MSI Gaming X 1060 on amazon for $260 with a $60 rebate after purchase too, snap that up if you can, good card.

While Oculus Quest sounds like a goid option for you, the cheapest way to get into PCVR right now would be to buy a WMR headset and a cheap 1060 or 970 gpu. the Lenovo WMR has been going on sale for less than $200 and you can get a 1060 on Amazon right now for $284

MSI GAMING GeForce GTX 1060 6GB GDRR5 192-bit HDCP Support DirectX 12 Dual TORX 2.0 Fan VR Ready Graphics Card (GTX 1060 GAMING X 6G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IEKYD5U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_A.B9Bb3WTB9ZY


Personally I think your better off with a Rift, but at least this is an option.

Looking for any good deals on 1060 6GB. Cheapest I've found is for the Zotac at $320 and EVGA at $329.

Thoughts?

Zotac: https://www.mikescomputershop.com/product/7821621

EVGA: https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-06G-P4-6161-KR/dp/B01IPVSGEC/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=

There is also the single fan version which has the crappy cpu heatsink for $260.

Even though these aren't exactly msrp, We're getting closer

EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 GAMING, ACX 2.0 (Single Fan), 6GB GDDR5, DX12 OSD Support (PXOC), Only 6.8 Inches Graphics Card 06G-P4-6161-KR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wgDZzb3T4FST8

ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1060 Mini, ZT-P10600A-10L, 6GB GDDR5 VR Ready Super Compact Gaming Graphics Card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IA9FEOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_phDZzbXMY3P0C

MSI GTX 1060 6G OCV1 Graphic Cards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2W09Q6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XhDZzb5BSXSZ3

Convinced? Can't hear you.

lol?

Gigabyte for the coil whine or EVGA for the House Fire. I kid, mostly.

EVGA 1060 SC version is alright.

Do not get the cheapo one (which overheats at 91C under load); avoid their ACX 3.0 cooled versions (SSC and FTW models) for now.

How mini is your ITX case? Do you really need to settle on a single fan option?

The various names:

Founders Edition is nvidia's name for the reference edition of the current generation. It's carried by a lot of manufacturers, features a blower-style cooler, and no aftermarket overclocking. It's generally not recommended.

All others are brand-specific aftermarket cards, with custom cooler and frequently factory overclocking applied. Some of them may also have a custom circuit board layout. They'll all be in the same "region" of power, as the overclock won't be that massive, but they may run cooler, or allow more power draw for overclocking. You'll need to read the individual reviews - if you care. The differences are relatively small, the base chip is still definitly the deciding factor.

Upgrades:

RAM shouldn't be necessary for now. 8GB is still fine for gaming - 16GB can sometimes help, but it's not necessary, and I wouldn't invest in more DDR3 at this point.

A new power supply depends mostly on what you have right now. If it's some el cheapo model that you've used for years, I'd replace it - they don't get better over time. If it's something solid, it's fine to keep it, the wattage is definitly sufficient.

As for the GPU, if you're going for 144Hz in newer games than skyrim/cs:go as well, the GTX 1070 is worth a look, starting at $340 - though I'd spend a bit more on the sc black in that case. If you're not going for anything heavier, the RX 580 will be plenty.

If you're going for high framerate, also take another look at your cooler. You may be able to squeeze a bit more out of the CPU via overclocking, and at high framerates, the CPU is often the limiting factor.

Nope. Go to Amazon.in
See if the product you are looking for has a "global store" flair. Like this one I bought
Amazon will take care of all the hassle and deliver at your door.

The best historical price for that exact card on Amazon is $4 lower. From 10 days ago...

It should be fine. Although, here's an EVGA 450 watt 80+ Bronze for $40 bucks and free shipping. https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-Warranty-Supply-100-BT-0450-K1/dp/B01N9X3F8F

It's this one https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-Warranty-Supply-100-BT-0450-K1/dp/B01N9X3F8F/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493107032&sr=8-1&keywords=evga+450w+bt

Would a 450w bronze work such as this one

Some extra notes that may be helpful...

• Currently the EVGA 450w 80+ bronze psu is on sale on Amazon for $22 + tax. If you're not in a rush, can usually find a 400-450w psu in the $20-30 range, sometimes rebates are required.
  
• Similar case to the source 210 is the Coolermaster N400. Again, if you have time to wait, this can be found for ~$30 after MIR (price i paid for mine). Has the same amount of drive bays and space.
  
  Considering both of these options would bring the price down to the ~$245-$250 range, can put the savings towards a shiny new SSD for it.

IKR!?! I got a Samsung 850 EVO 120GB for $50 the other day on Ebay, an RGB/Mechanical Keyboard for $9, I'm eyeing this BUDGET EVGA MODULAR PSU:: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZY55HPT/ref=twister_B01G69E69E?th=1

Which is at $50 OR the non modular version for $27 (which I have seen dip to as low as 22) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9X3F8F/ref=twister_B01G69E69E?th=1

For the case I think I'm gonna go with the P400S, black/white. However not sure if I can get this on sale anytime soon. Phanteks/Bitfenix showcased some pretty dope RGB/TempGlass budget cases @ Computex but they won't be out until Q3.

RAM - well u know, buy whats cheapest

GPU - Aorus RX 570 is the best price/performance for 1080p. but fuck those miners, hope the sweet sweet 4XX sales return but for the 5XX series.

CPU - G4560 or a cheap i5-K processor (Skylake).

Ughh still so much time to wait :/

Lol another case of seller's remorse? Did you see the ones they have on Amazon now? $21.99 with Prime for a 450W EVGA 80+ bronze

Price History

• AMD Ryzen 5 3600X 6-Core, 12-thread unlocked desktop processor with   ^PureLink
  ReviewMeta: ★★★★★ 5.0/5 from 3 valid reviews
  CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
  
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  Rook no further, PriceKnight is here!
  ^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fcrws3n%2Fcpu_amd_ryzen_5_3600x_processor_38ghz_w35mb%2Fexachy6%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**

3600

3600X

3700X

3900X

​

The 3200Gand 3800X seem to have not been stored on google's servers

Yet they have the 3600x @ 249.

https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-3600X-12-Thread-Processor/dp/B07SQBFN2D/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?keywords=amd+3600x&qid=1562549530&s=gateway&sprefix=AMD+3600&sr=8-14

Amazon has had a very weird day today.

Edit: the one you linked isn't sourced by Amazon, so that 3rd party is just milking prices.

https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-3600X-12-Thread-Processor/dp/B07SQBFN2D

3600X for $200. Get it and be happy. Should play nice with existing mobo, though it would certainly appreciate some faster RAM (3200 min, 3600 preferred). Even with your current RAM it'll smoke that 1400 like a cheap cigar. 1400's barely faster than an i7-4770 from 6+ years ago.

Your GPU is a big limiting factor though, if money's limited upgrade that first. I'd swap it for a 1660 Super personally; sell it for $80 or so and you're in the same general price range as your CPU upgrade.

It is not.

　

200GE: Microcenter ($40) vs Amazon ($58)

2200G: Microcenter ($60) vs Amazon ($78)

1600: Microcenter ($80) vs Amazon ($101)

2700: Microcenter ($1３0) vs Amazon ($1６0)

3600X: Microcenter ($200) vs Amazon ($235)

3700X: Microcenter ($330) vs Amazon ($355)

2950X: Microcenter ($600) vs Amazon ($622)

2970WX: Microcenter ($800) vs Amazon ($915)

(this list is not exhastive but rather is to give an idea of prices across the entire price range)

　

And Microcenter lets you save a farther $30 when bundling with a motherboard.

Having trouble with new build.

Mobo: Gigabyte X570 Gaming X

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600X

RAM: 2x 16GB Corsair Vengeance RGB

GPU: Geforce GTX 750 ti (it's old, and the only part I haven't ordered a upgrade for yet. Upgrading next, but want to get this setup to at least power on first)

Hooked everything up with 650w PSU. RAM RGBs light up but that's all. PC won't power on. Thought it might be bad PSU, hooked up a 850w PSU I had sitting around but never actually used, same result (RGB on RAM lights up, but system won't power on). Thought it might be a bad power switch on the case, tried bypassing by connecting the power prongs with a screwdriver, nothing. Starting to think I got a bad MoBo. Any advice?

3600x has popped up so far it seems.

3600X shipped and sold by Amazon. $249.99 + tax. Comes out to about $270.

Only $80 new on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-120-G1-0650-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491762667&sr=8-1&keywords=evga+supernova+650

I was able to build everything new for just a bit over - needed to watch pricing after the fact, as some came down after I bought and got Newegg to match. There are cheaper storage solutions and cases as well, so you could get right into that $1000 area. Of course, taxes could hurt you, no sales tax for me though.

The EVGA Powersupply 650 G1 80+ Gold Cert for $70 is good, if you can get the rebate, even better, it would be $50. I bought on Newegg last week and price matched today. You could try chatting with Newegg to see if they'll match the price and if you'd still be able to get the rebate (maybe don't mention that part). Their current price is $105, it was $89.99 when I purchased. Rebate is only for Newegg purchase.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=s9_acsd_bw_wf_a_BTSmainw_cdl_32?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-4&pf_rd_r=16BCMHKT6Q98M5Q5JMD2&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1749fad4-cd02-4c84-87c1-8c721b9be7d9&pf_rd_i=15201447011


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | Purchased For $129.99
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard | Purchased For $54.99
Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | Purchased For $164.99
Storage | Western Digital - Blue 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $74.99
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | Purchased For $46.99
Video Card | NVIDIA - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card | Purchased For $549.00
Case | NZXT - S340 (Black/Blue) ATX Mid Tower Case | Purchased For $36.99
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | Purchased For $50.00
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1107.94
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-03-26 09:00 EDT-0400 |

You may eed to add on OS in there as well - I was able to get a free version via educational means... look around for that opportunity. Unless you are going to just move your key (if that's possible).

I run rigs of 6x 1070s and pull 775w from the wall from dual EVGA Supernova 650w PSUs which are outlined in the wiki. This is with a +600MHz memory overclock and a 75% power limit.

Here'a a list of PSUs that have my exact example: https://www.reddit.com/r/EtherMining/wiki/hardware/psu

Separate Power supply for sure.

A pi 3 needs a beefy supply, like this one

Are you planning on using Octoprint?

It isn't difficult, don't get intimidated. You can do this in an evening without any experience. You'll need a Pi, a Pi case, a Pi power adapter, a microSD card, a monitor encoder (if you tell me which model monitor you have, I'll send you a link for the encoder for it (NOT WHICH GAME YOU HAVE -- the model numbers vary even for the same titles -- just take the back panel off and read me the model number, it's in bold white text on a sticker on the back of the monitor)), some USB encoders to plug your buttons and joysticks into the Pi (grab two of these), and two buttons to use for coin/select (you will have to do some very minor drilling into that little black diagonal panel between the kick panel and the control panel to mount these; don't be scared though, even if you mess it up, you can get a piece of 1/8" MDF and paint it black for under $5 to replace it).

For instructions on installing, see here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09DQCOr6zQM - just ignore the products he tells you to use, since you'll be using the stock joysticks and buttons and getting just the encoders. The installation for everything else is the same.

https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4

This was on page one of google. I don’t know what you are doing wrong, but I’ve found 2.5A power supplies quite easily.

it will do basic tasks but expect it to crash under any which are moderately intense

heres the 'official' one. but just look around for one where on the label it says 5v 2.5A (five volts, 2.4 amps) & the amps may be listed as 2000mA like in your picture.(1A = 1000mA)

good chance you may have one powering/charging something else =)

Look at /r/retropie - it's more focused on these projects.

At minimum, you'll want: a [Raspberry Pi 3 ($35)](
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CD5VC92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Sb.pzbAZKNASG), a case ($7-$20), a power supply ($10), an HDMI cable ($7), one or two controllers ($15-$30 each), and a micro SD card ($22 for a Class 10 64 GB). There are a lot of threads about which controllers are best - I'm a fan of the wireless 8bitdo SNES30 / SFC30 (usually cheaper on eBay).

You don't need any programming experience to set it up, though you may need to edit some configuration files to set certain things up properly. I've built 2 of these to date - they play anything up to and including PlayStation 1 consistently well. N64 is very hit and miss, though Mario Kart 64 and Kirby 64 work well.

I just got done building a new Kodi box and I have to tell you its the only thing I've ever built that's normie approved. And by that I mean my wife, kids, and a hoard of cousins.

I used a RPi 3 + LibreELEC and hats off to the LibreELEC team because the thing reboots in 17 seconds and I haven't had a single skip or buffer problem on 1080p video.

Part | Price | Link
-----|-------|-----
Raspberry Pi 3 | $41 | https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-RASP-PI-3-Model-Motherboard/dp/B01CD5VC92
Power Adapter | $10 | https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4
SD Card | $10 | https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Memory-SDSDU-032G-U46-Change-Version/dp/B00812K4V4
Case | $20 | https://flirc.tv/more/raspberry-pi-case-ke
Rii i8+ 2.4GHz Mini Wireless Keyboard | $22 | https://www.amazon.com/Rii-Wireless-Keyboard-Touchpad-Rechargable/dp/B00Z81U3YY
HDMI Cable | $06 | https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8SIJY
Ethernet Cable | $05 | https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-RJ45-Cat-6-Ethernet-Patch-Cable-10-Feet-3-Meters/dp/B00N2VISLW
OS | $00 | https://libreelec.tv
Total | $114 |

I think one of these should be on every TV.

Don't forget a good power supply or micro usb cable.

Haven't had any issues with my China 5v 3A adapter -- but I'm not OC'd - try reverting back to standard clock and see if the bolt goes away - if it does you might need to get a larger/better power supply ( I've seen a few reports saying the Canakit supply doesn't actually provide 2.5A @ 5V )

For example this review on Amazon by Chris Satterleeon April 4, 2016 ( https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4 )

He does some Testing and includes a chart which shows it and says :

"
An interesting point is where the curves cross their rated current values. The Kootek 2.0A supply crosses 2.0A at about 4.6V (2.04.6 = 9.2W). The Canakit 2.5A supply crosses 2.5A at about 4.5V (2.54.5 = 11.25W). Both of these are well below 5V. Probably high enough that the RPi won't crash, but cutting it close.

Another interesting point is where the curves cross 5.0V. The Kootek 2.0A supply crosses 5.0V at about 0.8A (0.85.0 = 4.0W). The Canakit 2.5A supply crosses 5.0V at about 1.0A (1.05.0 = 5.0W).

People who are claiming that this supply doesn't deliver 2.5A are correct - if they are expecting it to deliver 2.5A at 5.0V. But what is important is whether the supply is sufficient for the RPi 3. All I can say for sure is that it does deliver proportionally more power than a 2.0A-rated power supply that has worked fine for me with the Gen 1 RPi B+. For that reason, I'm giving it four stars. "


So by the time it hits 2.5A the voltage has dropped to 4.5V which may be the reason the lightning bolt is showing if the case adds even a small amount more of drop by using the GPIO pins for the power in !

I just built one today. The popular 2.5A power adapter is this one, which is probably on your list

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MARDJZ4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I bought this case, which acts as a giant heat sink and was shown to cool the CPU more then the little heatsinks

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QB6F9I0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I followed the instructions that others posted and I've been trying it out all night, with a few hiccups for certain systems (Neo Geo, Family Computer Disk System), but Google searches fixed those issues.

I'm using my Xbox One controller, which has been working great and has extra buttons for different things (like save states, which I don't think can be done an an SNES controller)

I built one earlier this year (and another for a friend):

• Pi3, $37
  
• case, $6
  
• power supply, $10
  
• microSD card, $10
  
  So for about $60, you have the hardware. Assembly is easy. The software part is relatively trivial:
  
  
• Download ROMs
  
• Download disk image for RetroPi
  
• Install the image (download a tool to help) onto the SD card (may need a USB adapter)
  
• Upload the ROMs on to the image
  
• Plug it in to your TV
  
  It works with a wide array of controllers. I use my PS4 controllers with it and it works like a champ.

That's the non OC version of the card I believe.

The same card is here:

http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Graphics-GV-N970G1-GAMING-4GD/dp/B00NH5T1MS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413477669&sr=8-1&keywords=gigabyte+gtx+970

http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Graphics-GV-N970G1-GAMING-4GD/dp/B00NH5T1MS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1419050241&sr=1-1&keywords=gtx+970+g1

340USD = around 470SGD

From one of the shops at at Sim Lim: http://puu.sh/dBVQo/4e8bc4c0d9.png


This is why.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NH5T1MS

This is generally considered the "best" 970.

Here is my build list formated for reddit

Group | Name | Price | Quantity | Total | Link
--- | --- | --- | --- | --- | ---
Pc | (Everything Inside the case) | | | |
$1,601.62 | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $347.00 | 1 | $347.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012M8LXQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Cooler Master Hyper D92 54.8 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler | $44.80 | 1 | $44.80 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NXLYE4G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $171.49 | 1 | $171.49 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012N6EW6G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $129.99 | 1 | $129.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OTJZTZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.99 | 1 | $97.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAJ412U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Hitachi HD​S723020BLA​642 | $58.00 | 3 | $174.00 | EBay
| EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $459.99 | 1 | $459.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I60OGUK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| EVGA 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $90.39 | 1 | $90.39 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYK1CC6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| XFX AMD Radeon HD 5450 1GB | $29.99 | 2 | $59.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005IUW7YE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| PWM Female to 4 x PWM Male Computer Case Fan Splitter | $6.50 | 2 | $13.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DYQRFY6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Sabrent 2.5" SSD & SATA Hard Drive to Desktop 3.5" | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UN550AC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 80MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 2 | $0.00 |
| 92MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 4 | $0.00 |
Monitors | | | | |
$744.66 | Seiki Pro SM28UTR 28-Inch 4K UHD 3840x2160 | $195.69 | 1 | $195.69 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013XWQF28/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| AOC e2460Sd 24-Inch Widescreen LED Monitor | $142.99 | 3 | $428.97 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C99MUHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Dell 17" 5:4 | $30.00 | 4 | $120.00 | EBay
Cables | | | | |
$137.77 | Cable Matters Gold Plated DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable 10 Feet | $11.99 | 1 | $11.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H3Q5E0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Cable Matters Active DisplayPort to DVI Male to Female Adapter | $19.99 | 2 | $39.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT01TO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| DVI Male to Female 90 Degree Adapter Connector | $4.43 | 3 | $13.29 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008X0ZJZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 15ft 28AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable - Black | $10.47 | 3 | $31.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2760&seq=1&format=2
| 15ft Super VGA M/M | $5.69 | 4 | $22.76 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10201&cs_id=1020101&p_id=3622&seq=1&format=2
| 15ft USB 2.0 A Male to A Female Extension | $1.87 | 5 | $9.35 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030304&p_id=5435&seq=1&format=2
| 25ft hdmi cable | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SKVMHI4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Desk Accesseries | | | | |
$263.49 | Perixx PX-5200 Cherry MX Blue | $72.91 | 1 | $72.91 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NY45NCY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Logitech C310 Webcam | $31.93 | 1 | $31.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LVZO8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Lapel Mics | $6.50 | 1 | $6.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJOIHE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| FingerPrint Reader | $12.58 | 1 | $12.58 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHHP7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Mouse Pad | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GB0IF50/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Headset Func HS260 | $79.99 | 1 | $79.99 | https://www.amazon.com/FUnc-FUNC-HS-260-1ST-fUnc-HS-260/dp/B00HH3H83U
| Altec ACS 54 - Speaker | $0.00 | 1 | $0.00 |
| Logitech G700S | $50.59 | 1 | $50.59 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BFOEY3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Audio Accesseries | | | | |
$58.33 | BEHRINGER MICROAMP HA400 | $24.99 | 1 | $24.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KIPT30/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 5-Pack 6.35mm Male to 3.5mm Female Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAQD4YA/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3.5mm Male to 2 x 3.5mm Female Splitter Cable | $3.99 | 1 | $3.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081ZBNI4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Coupler 3.5 mm Female - 3.5 mm Female Stereo or Mono | $3.93 | 1 | $3.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O4N/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3 feet Slim 3.5mm Stereo Audio Cable - M/M | $2.71 | 2 | $5.42 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G3UK5C/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3-Feet 3.5mm Stereo Male to Female Extension Cable, 5-Pack | $12.01 | 1 | $12.01 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWOJLSS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lighting | | | | |
$86.88 | Studio Designs Swing Arm Lamp Black | $24.75 | 2 | $49.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2S7MHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Lutron TT-300NLH-BL Credenza Lamp Dimmer Black | $14.83 | 1 | $14.83 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00024BJZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Triple Outlet Swivel Adapter, White | $3.27 | 1 | $3.27 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HJBENG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Daylight LED Light Bulb 15W | $9.64 | 2 | $19.28 | https://www.walmart.com/ip/Great-Value-GVRLA1850ND-Great-Value-LED-15W-A19-Light-Bulb/38596922
Cable Managment | | | | |
$18.81 | 100 Velcro Ties | $5.00 | 2 | $10.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 100 Releasable cable ties | $2.47 | 3 | $7.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10520&cs_id=1052012&p_id=5795&seq=1&format=2
| Cable Clip nais | $0.70 | 2 | $1.40 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10520&cs_id=1052006&p_id=5834&seq=1&format=2
Power | | | | |
$53.13 | Monster MP AV 750 Audio Video PowerCenter | $18.99 | 1 | $18.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ETIKH8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| AmazonBasics 6-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip 2-Pack | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TP1BWMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3 Outlet Single-Tap Wall Tap | $4.00 | 2 | $8.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XQORTO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 15ft 16AWG Power Cord Cable | $5.20 | 1 | $5.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022801&p_id=5287&seq=1&format=2
| 10ft 18AWG Right Angle Power Cord Cabl | $2.65 | 3 | $7.95 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022809&p_id=7677&seq=1&format=2
Network | | | | |
$33.98 | TP-LINK 8-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch | $22.99 | 1 | $22.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EVGIYG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 5-Pack, Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable in Blue 3 Feet | $10.99 | 1 | $10.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C2B81K6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Monitor Mount | | | | |
$215.27 | Arm wall mount | $17.54 | 3 | $52.62 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=12232&seq=1&format=2
| Top wall mount bracket | $4.80 | 4 | $19.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=3005&seq=1&format=2
| Center Monitor Mount | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=4564&seq=1&format=2
| 2x8 | $7.47 | 3 | $22.41 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Top-Choice-Common-2-in-x-8-in-x-10-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-7-25-in-x-10-ft-Lumber/4082916
| 2x4 | 2.55 | 1 | $2.55 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-2-in-x-4-in-x-8-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-3-5-in-x-8-ft-Stud/1000074211
| 3" clamp | $5.98 | 6 | $35.88 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-3-in-Clamp/50214643
| 4" Hinge | $2.81 | 2 | $5.62 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-4-in-H-Oil-Rubbed-Bronze-Interior-Exterior-Mortise-Door-Hinge/4772785
| Wood Screws | $9.00 | 1 | $9.00 | Lowes
| Assorted brackets/hardware | $25.00 | 1 | $25.00 | Lowes
| Case Rack Mount | $35.00 | 1 | $35.00 | EBay
Misc | | | | |
$35.97 | Steam Link | $19.99 | 1 | $19.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Bluetooth Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | GRANDCOW Bluetooth 4.0 USB Adapter Dongle for Windows 10/ 8.1 / 8/ 7 / Vista / XP
| 19 Key Numeric Keypad | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJSAAU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CPU: Intel i7 6700K

Heatsink:CoolMaster Hyper 212 Evo

Motherboard: MSI B250

RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series

Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOA 850 P2

Video Card: ASUS ROG-STRIX-GTX1080

Storage: WD Black 1TB

Extra Performance for OS: WD Blue 250GB SSD

Also on sale on Amazon.ca for same price.

Nope, straight up new i7 6700k.
Link here: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B012M8LXQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Hr9VCbMCZMWCF

CamelCamelCamel shows this is the lowest price it has ever been on Amazon.

Significantly.

You may want to look at a Seasonic or Corsair CMx PSU. They are going to provide a better reliability at a similar cost. Look for 450w or so.

I would also swap to 1x8 for the RAM so you can easily swap later.

Could go cheaper on MOBO also. This would get you closer to being able to bump up the GPU to a RX480 8GB or 1060 6GB within the budget.

TL;DR: Currently have i3-6100. Looking at i5-6500 and i5-7500. Would like an upgrade recommendation so I can run games like Tarkov and PubG.

I'm very sad to say, I built this rig in late 2016, and I still feel like I don't know what the hell I'm doing. I got by with a lot of help from redditors and Youtube videos so I have no idea what's good and what isn't.

Currently, I have an i3-6100. I skimped on some parts due to being on a budget. In addition to upgrading my RAM by 8GB (Currently have 8GB) I'm hoping to upgrade my CPU. I also have an EVGA GTX 950 in there.

If it matters This is my motherboard

So what I'm looking for is an LGA 1151 slot, right?

Here is the first option

Here is the second option

What confuses me, is the second one is one generation newer than the first one, right? Why are they the same price? I'm also told if I go above a certain gen I'd have to upgrade my BIOS? I'd like to avoid that if possible. I've also read that in reality, an i5 is plenty sufficient for games, and i7 isn't worth the extra money unless you're video editing/rendering, etc. Lastly, the stock cooler that comes with the cpu should suffice, yes? I don't care about overclocking.

I'm looking to smoothly run Tarkov, Hunt Showdown, PubG, things like that. I don't care about 4k or 1440p or anything really. Ideally I'd like to at least keep it to 60fps though. Smooth gameplay is primarily what I'm after.

I'm also open to AMD and such if there's a comparable option that's more cost-effective, the intel i-series was just a bit easier for me to tell the difference between the different tiers (3, 5, 7)

I know it's a bit verbose, so thank you for reading.

I'd go with this psu over the one you have there. http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Modular-Crossfire-Warranty-210-GQ-0650-V1/dp/B017HA3SQ8

I'm sorry, what does GS/PS mean? Is that in reference to the rating of the PSU? like Gold/Platinum? I have a 650W Gold EVGA PSU and a white case, I would love to buy these cables but I'm confused as to whether I should or not....

this is my powersupply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017HA3SQ8/ref=twister_B01LXKQ07C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

That's pretty borderline. If you're spending $1167 on a rig you can spend an extra $30 compared to the other PSU on a high quality PSU like this one.

• Posted 4 days ago, but thread got deleted (expired?).
  
• https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/4kdf2g/discussion_evga_g1_vs_evga_gq_which_is_better/
  
• https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/66zsov/psu_evga_650w_gq_semimodular_80_plus_gold_6091/
  
• https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/4gpmz8/psu_evga_650gq_80_plus_gold_8010_price_match_20/
  
• 650W at 80% efficiency draws 780W. 90% draws 715W.

If you're willing to step down to a semi modular power supply, then this would be a good choice

It's not made by Super Flower or Seasonic, but it scored pretty high on JonnyGuru.

It works beautifully.

It’s worth every bit of the price tag imo.. here’s the Amazon link

Actually on sale for $120 for the next half hour

It was annoying to set up right, but if you need help, hit me w a PM

> Around £150 + shipping

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Elgato-Game-Capture-HD60-PlayStation/dp/B01DRWCOGA/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

No, but you’re only 1 device short.

You need some kind of card to get the signal from the PS4 to the Mac.

Something like this would do the trick.

I'd recommend doing all of this by streaming over Twitch. That way she'll be able to watch your stream from any of her devices as they all have the Twitch app (and alternatives like Pocket Plays). This will make things much easier for what you want to accomplish.

The software you'd use to stream all of this from an external capture card would be OBS, Open Source Broadcaster (free).

And finally, you have a variety of choices as to which hardware you could use to do this all with. Here are a few choices to take a look at and depending on your price range:

• AVerMedia Live Gamer Extreme $139.99 (supports 1080p@60fps, USB 3.0 compatible)
  
• Elgato Game Capture HD60 S $149.95 (supports 1080p@60fps, USB 3.0 compatible)
  
• AVerMedia Game Capture HD2 $168.64 (only 1080p@30fps)
  
• AVerMedia AVerCapture HD $99 (if lower budget, only 1080p@30fps)
  
• Elgato Game Capture HD $125.89 (only 1080p@30fps)
  
  If I had to go with an external capture card, I'd either go with the AVerMedia Live Gamer Extreme or Elgato Game Capture HD60 S. So read up on these and see what the pros and cons of each are.
  
  Now as far as latency between you and her, that will all depend on your upstream bandwidth for your internet connection as well as what video resolution and fps you'd be streaming at. But in normal/good scenarios, this will be 10-20 seconds.

You can stream with a GX85 if you use a capture device, such as an Elgato or Avermedia. You'll also need software to take the incoming stream and then send it over the internet to Facebook/Youtube/platform of your choice. Check out Open Broadcaster, works on Windows, macOS, and Linux.

I currently use the Elgato HD60 S for the Switch and I love it! It's a little convoluted to use the first time, but I had really nice video quality. You should be able to use it for the Wii U, too. If that's outside of your price range, you can find some decent capture cards that may have slightly lower quality or be a bit tougher to use.

Unfortunately, unless I'm behind the times, the only way to capture 3DS games is by having a custom capture card installed. On top of that, the only guy I know of who installed them has stopped doing so, for some reason. I haven't heard of any other options for a 3DS.

What kind of computer are you using to record your gameplay with?

For audio, a cheap dynamic mic would be a great way to go. It might not sound great initially, but a lot of those problems can be solved easily with software--Audacity is free and easy to use, and makes our recordings sound much better despite the mic's problems. You'll also need an XLR cable to go with it--preferably XLR male to female, but you can also find an XLR to USB one if you want to connect it directly to your PC. Otherwise, you'll need an audio interface to go with it. As for mic stands, I've honestly never had a problem with this one. It's not as easy to maneuver as the 100 dollar one, but it should serve your needs as a beginer.

If you're recording multiple people, you could get the Blue Yeti--a lot of people swear by it--but it's also a lot more expensive and it picks up everything if you're not careful. A lot of people think that the Yeti is cruise control for great audio, but it really doesn't do much more than a cheap mic can. I would just recommend having an audio interface that connects at least two microphones and then buying another dynamic mic instead.

As for recording your Switch, the standard is the Elgato. I'm currently using the HD60 model, which is nice, but it has some latency issues (meaning you'll need to manually sync your audio with your video). The HD60s has no latency problems, but it's a bit more expensive.

This is Canadian pricing, not USD. Comparing currency value, buying it for $309 USD would be equivalent to someone in Canada buying it for $404.56 CAD. Amazon Canada lists a 6700k for $409.99 CAD, so $369.99 CAD is a good deal for this CPU in Canada

EDIT: This is also listed on Newegg Canada for $448.99 CAD.

You can often get them on Amazon for $420. Just keep refreshing the page every few hours. When they come back for $420, they don't last long, but they return again soon.

Combine that with a Chase Freedom Visa card if you have one for 10% cash back. Even after taxes, it got me a chip for about $400. Not MRSP, but far better than other vendors (since I am nowhere near a Microcenter). I even got it delivered in under a week (and this was earlier this month, so it's still relevant).

For £420, you can buy an i7-4790K and another Sabertooth.

edit: for £500, an i7-6700K with its Sabertooth Z170 version. But you'll also need DDR4 RAM.

http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Boxed-I7-6700K-Processor-BX80662I76700K/dp/B012M8LXQW/ref=pd_sim_147_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Gmdr3n9bL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR139%2C160_&refRID=0B1C3WGP1MCTWNTYCY62

Skylake powerful i7 cpu

http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-LGA1151-Motherboard-GA-Z170X-GAMING-G1/dp/B012IBPJKY/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1451282056&sr=1-2&keywords=motherboards&refinements=p_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A2057458011%2Cp_36%3A1253507011
This motherboard fits the cpu and also can be used for sli

If at any point this gets too expensive dont hesitate to ask for tips. When you want the best, it adds up.

Looks alright. I wouldn't reccomend Ryzen chips. I would probably get something more like an i7 6700k or the 6700 (which is around $20 cheaper if you can't justify the price) for gaming. If you end up choosing an Intel CPU you'll have to choose a different Mobo as well but there are lots of good ones.

I'd reccomend getting an entry level 144Hz Screen. If you can stretch to something like this I would seriously reccomend it, though it's not going to hurt you if you don't. I think it was Jake from LG Evil that made T500 early in the game on a Mac Book running OW in wine.

I personally don't like any gaming Headsets other than the HyperX Clouds. There is a huge quality difference between them and any other "gaming" headsets I have used.

As far as mice and keyboards, I would probably just buy a nice cheap Keyboard to begin with because there are no benefits really to having a good keyboard if you're on a budget. A mouse is kinda personal, I use a Steel Series Rival 100 but am a palm style user and am completely arm aim. It's a good cheap mouse but you may want something else if your grip style is different. My brother plays claw and doesn't mind it though.

Parts and gear you should prioritise for Overwatch are: Good GPU. 6GB 1060s are plenty for overwatch unless you want to be running the game at consistently over 240FPS (here's Taimou's settings btw. These will help with you configuring your settings for Overwatch). A fast CPU (Overwatch can be very CPU dependant). SSDs are kinda nice and fairly cheap. If you have a SSD btw you're at a direct benefit to most other players because you load in matches faster and can therefore instalock first, if that's your thing. :P Monitors are the most important peripheral by far in my opinion, followed closely by mice. If you're not getting a 144Hz screen now, you'll want one eventually (you won't need one but you'll want one). The only other peripheral that is important for Overwatch specifically is a mouse. This is one of those what suits your style things and there's no real correct answer but for First Person Shooters you usually want a nice light fast mouse. Ideally with 2 buttons on the side of the mouse for binding melee and voice. Just don't get a Razer and you'll be fine.

I'd probably ask on /r/buildapc as well because they'll probably give you better advice than this sub will. Best of luck dude with your transition to PC. Hope this helps.

Edit: oh and Mousepad! In the beginning I'd reccomend a nice control style mouse pad for getting used to using a mouse for aiming. I can't reccomend you any though because I have always used the mats that come in WoW TCG boxes since a family member has heaps of them and I've never used any other control style mats. The bigger the better.

I'm a tad confused, is this a new system build or do you already have the CPU and motherboard? If you already have the CPU/motherboard definitely don't upgrade to Skylake, just get a 4790k if you're looking for an upgrade.

If the above is true and you already have the CPU/mobo disregard this. Now, if you are doing a new build I would really recommend getting a Skylake CPU. While Haswell is still a very powerful and viable generation, there are no more upgrades beyond the 4790k so it will go obsolete faster than Skylake, as Kaby Lake and Cannon Lake are yet to be released for the Skylake generation. As for Haswell outperforming their Skylake counterparts, the i5-6600k and the i5-4690k perform basically the same with the 6600k being slightly better (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gs2RKt0MS9w). They also cost pretty much the same (6600K: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012M8M7TY/?tag=pcpapi-20 and the 4690k: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Core-i5-4690K-Processor-BX80646I54690K/dp/B00KPRWB9G/).

For the i7-4790k and the i7-6700k, again they perform more or less the same with the 6700k being slightly better (https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Haswell-vs-Skylake-S-i7-4790K-vs-i7-6700K-641/). As for cost, again they cost about the same (4790k: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-4790K-Processor-Cache-BX80646I74790K/dp/B00KPRWAX8 and the 6700k: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Unlocked-Skylake-Processor-BX80662I76700K/dp/B012M8LXQW). Since the release of Skylake, 1151 motherboards and DDR4 RAM have come down in price and more or less equal in price when compared to 1150 motherboard and DDR3 RAM.

happens within 5-10 seconds for me.

using this setup:

I have my res scaled at 150%, all settings on Ultra. GPU limit off. Nvidia Control panel I have all the settings for BF1 set to override to the highest setting if possible.

> BenQ XL2720Z @ 1920 x 1080

> OP: Windows 7 64-bit

> CPU: Intel Core i7 6700K @ 4.00GHz (No Overclock)

> RAM: 16GB Corsair DDR3 @ no clue... (2 x 8 GB)

> GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 FTW (No Overclock) 08G-P4-6286-KR

> DISC: Samsung 850 EVO 1TB

>I currently have the Intel Core i7 950 3.07GHz (Bloomfield) (https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-950-Socket-LGA1366-Processor/dp/B002A6G3V2)

I did bit of digging and it seems that you're right, even though Lightroom is capable of using multiple cores, it seems that it's not quite optimized properly.
I also have to do video editing, but not as much as stills.

This i7-6700 (https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Unlocked-Skylake-Processor-BX80662I76700K/dp/B012M8LXQW) looks like the best option at the moment. An overclocking mobo seems appealing as well, but I would need to upgrade my cooling system as well.

Note: This was posted by a new user (/u/Henduyen).
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That's a pretty nice build, but you could go for an RX 480 or a GTX 1060 when the price drops a bit.

You could save a bit of cash by going with this motherboard instead.

Other than that, really solid build!

my first idea is to maybe go with a more bare-bones motherboard your current one has 2 graphics card slots and 4 ram slots. You only need 1 graphics card slot and 2 ram slots unless you are planning on upgrading your pc in the future. I found this one on Amazon that's about half the price. Also maybe consider only using 8gb ram or 12 if you stick with the current motherboard. 16gb is a little overkill in my opinion.
amazon.com/GIGABYTE-GA-H110M-LGA1151-Intel-Motherboard/dp/B0165YUDTM/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1509749648&sr=1-6&keywords=motherboard&dpID=51qUTLJ3MGL&preST=_SX300QL70&dpSrc=srch

Good lord, with all the negative posts screaming about the RX480 melting cheap motherboards, I forgot that it actually does everything I wanted a motherboard to do. Just wondering, I have this H110 Motherboard and I a noticed you had a P67-G43; you think I am safe from needing to replace this brand new motherboard in a few months?

Oh I meant h110m (which I use right now) or b150

Having just an ssd isnt a problem if you have an external hdd. If all your playing is LOL trust me your build will get the results you want. You just need to change your mobo to something basic since you wont be overclocking. something like the Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard works fine and should shave a few bucks off your build. You would be better off getting 2x4gb ram instead of 1x8gb. gives a bit of a preformance boost but then again ram is cheap so you could always buy another 8gb stick later (you wont need 16gb of ram for LOL but maybe if you decided to play something else in the future it could be nice). No real need for an optical drive these days but by all means buy it if you feel you need it.


Heres a link to amazon but feel free to shop around

https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-LGA1151-Intel-Motherboard-GA-H110M-/dp/B0165YUDTM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466724470&sr=8-1&keywords=Gigabyte+GA-H110M-A+Micro+ATX+LGA1151+Motherboard


ohh and here is some gameplay of league at max settings 1080p with your cpu gpu combo. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jNnv3aNHqkM
you can even play at 4k but then again those arent cheap.

TD;LR
buy this Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
and enjoy 200fps at max if your monitor can handle it.

~mumrax15

You'll want to look at H110 or B150 mobo's. Here's a good one, you'll just need a separate wifi card. Otherwise this ASRock has built in wifi.

That's a fairly tenuous claim. All the following motherboards are sold by Gigabyte:

• Yours: Supports 7th and 6th generation.
  
  
• Another: Supports 6th generation.
  
  
• Another: Who the hell knows what.
  
  
  Then we have Newegg advertising the same motherboard you linked with no mention of generation. We also have a review from your motherboard 5 days ago that claims the BIOS must be updated.
  
  
  I'm not saying I'm right, but it doesn't seem like that text is a guarantee.

Had the same problems with their subsidiary company ASRock. Fucking drove me nuts. I roll with Gigabyte now, even the shit tier boards have "Audio Noise Guard with High Quality Audio Capacitors". Might be worth looking into.


​

Issue is that my sad motherboard only supports up to 6/7th gen processors

this one --> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0165YUDTM/ref=twister_B01MFBKDST?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

How about this:

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i3-6100-Cache-Processor-BX80662I36100/dp/B015VPX2EO/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1480139667&sr=1-1&keywords=intel+i3

https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-LGA1151-Intel-Motherboard-GA-H110M/dp/B0165YUDTM/ref=pd_sim_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0165YUDTM&pd_rd_r=FTC8N04D9Z13F9NM5G13&pd_rd_w=M5RmB&pd_rd_wg=dUkUf&psc=1&refRID=FTC8N04D9Z13F9NM5G13

https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-Single-PC4-17000-288-Pin-Memory/dp/B01BIWLFGQ/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1480139800&sr=1-8&keywords=ddr4+8gb

less than 200 usd...

One last question my friend. I just found this motherboard on Amazon. Would this be a straight swap into my HP Pavilion HPE?

https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-GA-H110M-LGA1151-Intel-Motherboard/dp/B0165YUDTM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1527727938&sr=8-2&keywords=lga+1155

You can get a B150 for $42 on Newegg at the moment delivery included in the price, which is a slightly better mobo than a H110 - it's apparently an $85 value (Amazon also charge $85 for it)... $25 off if you buy before Friday, plus a $20 mail in rebate. That's a really good deal.
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/8RkwrH/msi-motherboard-b150mbazooka

H110/B150s are about $10 less than 250s, but are also on sale like this more frequently. You can also find some second hand for about $30-35

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0165YUDTM/ref=sr_1_1_olp?ie=UTF8&qid=1493242822&sr=8-1&keywords=h110

http://www.ebay.com/sch/Motherboards/1244/i.html?_from=R40&_mPrRngCbx=1&_udlo=&_udhi=45&_nkw=h110&rt=nc&LH_BIN=1

Basically as best I know with these, they do not work with a G4560 off the bat, but if you put the 6500 in it when you first run the system you can do a quick bios update that enables Kaby Lake support, then take out the 6500 and replace it with the 4560 which will work perfectly fine.

As is there is $25 left in the budget, so if you get one of these for $40 that's $45 left in the budget. If he thinks he can sell the 750 TI let's say for $85 then he has $130, so getting the RAM for $30-35 should mean the 470 wouldn't cost a cent. It's a little bit of work granted, but would be a hell of an upgrade to get essentially for free.

Your CPU and GPU combo are great for 1440p gaming. I have a 2600 and Vega 64, and I consistently hit over 100 fps on 1440p games like Destiny 2 and Apex Legends with proper overclocks/undervolts.

From what I understand, the 2060 Super is a bit stronger than the 64 so you should be good.

I also have the same monitor and love it, so good choice there.

In regards to storage, it depends on your budget. I have this one as my boot drive, and works great: WD 500GB m.2

Obviously you can choose larger storage if your budget allows.

Power supply: EVGA 650W Power Supply

I have this one and it works reliably. According to your parts, a 650W should be safe enough, but again, your budget really determines how you go with this.

This looks like a solid build, but I would consider the EVGA 650W GQ (80+ Gold, ECO) a better choice. You can get it on Amazon for $69.99.

It might save you a few bucks over it's lifetime. If you're using 400w while gaming 20%, or about 80W, is being wasted to heat. Like leaving an extra 75W light bulb on when you're gaming. A gold PS at 400w is close to 90% efficient so you're wasting 40w instead of 80w. It will save a few bucks but it's not the end of the world. After Gold rating they get expensive fast for diminishing returns. 80+ Platinum is 92% at middle load and 80+ Titanium is 94% at middle load. Cheapest Platinum I found was $100 for a Rosewill(no thanks), and cheapest Titanium is over $200.

Edit, oops the other one I linked was bronze. This one is gold but $70 though it would probably pay for itself in a year.

Your link to the current build doesn't work.. Just post it here including what GPU you plan on upgrading to. That PSU is good, but you won't need 750w unless you're doing SLI/xfire.

Check out the EVGA GQ 650w. It is better than the G1 you posted and cheaper. If you wait to scope out a deal you can get it even cheaper(just got mine for $55 after rebate).

Brand new 650w semi-modular great quality PSU

There's a deal right now for a really good PSU:
Link: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Modular-Warranty-Supply-210-GQ-0650-V1/dp/B017HA3SQ8
It's a gold efficiency semi-modular PSU (it also has nice black cables instead of the horrifying red, orange, black cable mess that is cheap power supplies.

you can get a EVGA g2 or GQ for the same as the corsair VS and its a much much much better psu.

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Modular-Warranty-Supply-210-GQ-0650-V1/dp/B017HA3SQ8/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480327439&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=ewvga+gq

Damn thats a good deal. Unfortunately a little low on the wattage :( Anyone know of any good PSU deals at a higher wattage? i.e. 600W and up?

Edit: Ended up buying this guy for a pretty good price.

Current shopping cart:
Graphics - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IPVSLTC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1D9VA4FDB43MN&psc=1

Motherboard - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0131GA4WI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&psc=1

Processro - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRRPPQS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_9?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

SSSD - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F9G414U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

RAM - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DPSQPF2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Case - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DPSQPF2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Power - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017HA3SQ8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=A2I4D0WO1JEMBA&psc=1

Harddrive - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013QFRS2S/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I would say spend $10 more and get the evga 650w gq 80+ gold from amazon

edit: nvm they upped the price to $120
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B017HA3SQ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used a different solution, I bought an Elgato HD60s capture card. Now I can connect my PS4 directly to my laptop, via usb 3.0 and use the laptop as a pass thru monitor for the PS4, skipping the remote play middle man. It's lag free and works very well when I have to go out of town. Plus it DVR's your gameplay on your laptop HD (if you want) to post them later. Pretty cool little gadget.

The capture card really doesn't affect the outgoing stream that way. You can capture at 1080p 60FPS and still tell OBS to broadcast at 480p 30FPS.

I'm pretty sure the Elgato HD60 is still the preferred choice for starting streamers looking to take the next step. It's what I'm still using at least.

Elgato.

Avermedia is the cheapest with the most options, but limited to 1080p 30fps.

The Elgato HD60 S is hard to beat for 1080p 60fps streaming., even at its price.

Links can be posted, just not affiliate links.

I have a laptop and not a desktop, so I use an external device. I use an older model of this Elgato device for capturing my BotW spredruns just fine.

Really, you'll be fine with any card/device from Elgato.

I've been trying to do this for a long time. You need a capture card to do it now with newer Macs that don't support Target Display mode.

@Steve132 is completely correct. It sounds like you're trying to use an output-only as an input.

​

To achieve HDMI input into a PC, you'll need what's called a "Capture Card". The brand name "Elgato" is a favorite amongst many YouTube and Twitch streamers. Search "Elgato Capture Card" on Amazon, or see here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DRWCOGA

​

Note that while Elgato is more expensive than its competitors, it beats them outright on simplicity of use regarding its software package. Many other capture cards will leave it up to the end-user to figure out how to make intricate video issues 'just work'.

This is what I'm assuming you are talking about.

Anything wrong | with | these?

There was a workaround I did back in the day, but I see that I had a slightly different model than you did, too. I’d honestly drop it and go with this. I apologize for the misinformation—your capture card looked very similar to my old one, which I used composite to HDMI. Or, you can opt for the (renewed) PCIe version of that, which I believe is cheaper, and the input lag and video lag is less.

https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Game-Capture-HD60-technology/dp/B01DRWCOGA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521516591&sr=1-3&keywords=Elgato+HD60S just to be sure this is the one right?

I use OBS as the program on my pc and an Elgato to plug the hdmi’s together with the pc. Here’s a link to the Elgato I use.

I did not realize I failed to respond to this beyond that. I apologize for that.

In terms of capturing game footage, you need go for a capture card. I would personally recommend one that is PCIe-based if possible. Could be any of these (all are Amazon US listings, check your local country or elsewhere if applicable):

• https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-superior-technology-hardware-encoding/dp/B014MQIVPS
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-superior-technology-hardware-encoding/dp/B076ZQBN6R?th=1
  
• https://www.amazon.com/AVerMedia-Multi-Card-Low-Latency-Pass-Through-GC570/dp/B06XRF732W
  
  If you are on a laptop, these obviously won't work, so you are stuck with this.
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Game-Capture-HD60-PlayStation/dp/B01DRWCOGA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=elgato+hd60s&qid=1555082245&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
  
  Then (assuming you have a webcam), in order to reconcile game footage with you and your friends playing, using a streaming software like OBS (or other variants like OBS Studio and Streamlabs OBS) means that you won't have to go back and do it in a video editing software like VEGAS Pro or Adobe Premiere, but it's good to have those to splice and export videos in the preferred format for places like YouTube.

https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Game-Capture-HD60-PlayStation/dp/B01DRWCOGA/ref=sr_1_3?crid=12XYQ9CHJLG52&keywords=hd60s+capture+card&qid=1556630766&s=gateway&sprefix=hd+60s%2Caps%2C156&sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/Canon-VIXIA-HF-R800-Camcorder-Black/dp/B01N7OAH3I/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Canon+-+VIXIA+HF+R800+HD+Flash+Memory+Camcorder+-+Black&qid=1556631161&s=gateway&sr=8-2\
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Portable-Cellphone-Bluetooth-Smartphone/dp/B0787S7N32/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?keywords=albott+camera+tripod+20in&qid=1556631321&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr1
Here are the links to the stuff I use to give you a Idea or price
wont need a programe to add it to slobs.
you would just add it the camera as a video source

Definitely the 3470, but do not buy that PSU. It's garbage. Get this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9X3F8F/?tag=pcpapi-20

Where are you getting these parts?

44.99 on Amazon and free shipping
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01N9X3F8F/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01N9X3F8F/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

EVGA is currently on a massive discount, a better deal :)

What's the caveat with this power supply? 80+ bronze, black sleeved cables, 450 watt and only $21.99? Should I be skeptical or purchase 2 more for future builds?


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N9X3F8F/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1_1_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

The 450w should be adequate. For reference, the CPU has a 65w TDP, and according to Tom's Hardware, the 980 is typically about 180w during gaming. However, the 980 may peak to about 280w during stress testing. Add another about 50w for peripherals and drives, this comes to almost 300w. The other 200w can feed the motherboard, although the motherboard probably uses half that. Plus, Amazon reviews have comments of running the 980 on this PSU, even in SLI.

You may need 16 gbs of ram when the build gets older and processes start to build up / when you stream any given game. The WD SSD you have is kinda expensive - you can find 240 Gb kingston SSDs on Ebay for ~$60-70 when they hit a sale (happens semi-often, check /r/buildapcsales daily). 1050Ti is great for budget builds - check around and price match and for upcoming GPU deals. Don't forget the case and PSU. You should be able to run off This PSU and put it all in a case Like this one or similar

You could also try switching down to the Ryzen 5 1400, or waiting for the Ryzen 3.

Newer and cheaper PSU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N9X3F8F/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
RAM: Go with a single 8gb stick for upgradibilty in the future.

Skim out on optical drive and go for this case instead: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NGCS7YA/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N9X3F8F/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Been lurking for a bit, never posted. I’m attempting my first build in 15 years so I have a question that I’m not sure warrants it’s own post so I’m bringing it here.

Looking to do things on a tight budget so I’m going the seemingly tried and true optiplex upgrade route. I’m looking at the following at the moment:

Dell Optiplex 9010(Intel Core i7-3770) or 9020(Intel Core i7-4770), and hopefully having 16gb ram off, EBay and adding the following:

Gpu: GTX 1060 6gb used off EBay

EVGA 450 BT 80+ Bronze 450w psu
https://www.amzn.com/B01N9X3F8F

SanDisk SSD PLUS 240GB
https://www.amzn.com/B01F9G43WU

What am I missing as far as issues/conflicts etc? Will I be bottlenecking my cpu with the 1060? Is there a better build within a $100-$150 range that I should be considering? Any other thoughts or suggestions would be great.

This is a typical price for this CPU.

Amazon.ca has it on for the exact same price, not on sale.

Confirma:

Portugal

amazon.es

Compara o resto..

£399 from one seller on amazon who is probably wondering why he is selling a lot of cpus right now.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Intel-BX80684I78700K-Core-i7-8700K-Processor/dp/B07598VZR8/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1538588931&sr=1-1&keywords=8700k

M2 Drive

Fans

Fan

Motherbord

Ram

CPU

Water Cooling

GPU

Gpu Power Adapter

Psu

Case

SSD

HDD

Cable Sleeving

24 pin white cable

This is everything that I have in my PC,I don't know the buget,beacuse I upgraded my pc so many times,i think it's around 1500-2000 euros.

seems 100% normal. https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-8700K-Desktop-Processor-Unlocked/dp/B07598VZR8 and newegg. what's your beef?

• 750 Watt Power Supply. $89.98
  
  
• Generic Corsair Case. $64.99 You can shop around for something better looking for a little more money.
  
  
• DDR4 3200 RAM (2*4GB Sticks) for $147.99 and DDR4 3200 RAM (1*8GB Stick) for $160.32. You can also drop to 3000MHz and save like $5-10 but not worth it in my opinion.
  
  
• GTX 1060 3GB for $304.99 or GTX 1060 6GB for $389.99.
  
  
• i7 8700k for $449.99 or i7 7700k for $422.96. 8700k is 8th gen and 7700k is 7th gen. You can drop to any processor around an i7 7700 (No "k") without seeing issues I'd assume. WoW is a processor heavy game though. Still my i7 8700k only ever reaches maybe 30% useage that I see.
  
  
• Heat Sink + Fan. Cooler Master is good. $34.99
  
  
• i7 8700 will require a 300 Series Motherboard like ASUS ROG for $141.50 or ASUS Prime for $84.99. The 7700s will take a 200 series motherboard like this one for $129.61 or this one for 149.99. Basically just make sure it has all the hook-ups you need (sound and USBs and shit) with the proper chip set and supports DDR4 RAM with minimum 1 PCI Express slot for your GPU.
  
  
• Samsung 860 Evo 500GB SSD for $179.94 or the 250GB for $109.94. Any decent SSD will do. Make sure it has enough room for your OS and the game(s) you play. You can use any regular HD to store other stuff on. Samsung is a good brand for them.
  
  When trying to decide on what power your PC needs a good website to use is http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/ - it'll give you a general idea since I get confused with all the "i7/i5/i3 XXXX gen X" nonsense too.
  
  That'll build you a tower. Then you just need external components. Monitor, keyboard, mouse, headset, chair, desk, etc. Depending on what you have available and stuff it can vary so I'll let you price out that stuff.
  
  $1,358 pre-taxes if you go with i7 8700k, and GTX 1060 3 GB. For the tower. Taxes in, plus all the other components you're still looking at pushing close to $2000. That's CND I think. If you do a little shopping around you might get a decent deal on a few items and look into different price points between AMD and Intel if you choose their Board/Chip/GPU combos.

A VR build doesn't have to be stupid expensive anymore. Just keep in mind that no matter what you buy is going to replaced with bigger and better parts in a year or two. It's just how pc building works. Doesn't mean what you build will become shitty though. I'm a big fan of setting myself a budget and staying well below it. I prefer to keep my extra money in my pocket, but that's just me. I honestly think a 1080 or 1080TI is overkill unless you want to do some 4k gaming, but then that requires a 4k monitor. Not worth it if you're building a VR rig. Just my opinion.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor | $339.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Corsair - H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $107.89 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI - Z370 GAMING PLUS ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $109.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $164.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung - 860 Evo 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $129.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $42.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | MSI - GeForce GTX 1070 Ti 8GB Video Card | $499.99 @ Amazon
Case | Deepcool - DUKASE V2 ATX Mid Tower Case | $34.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $69.99 @ Amazon
Monitor | Asus - VG278Q 27.0" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor | $294.50 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1795.21
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-05-21 18:50 EDT-0400 |

You can purchase an i7 8700K on Amazon for £319.98 and I'm pretty sure the one this week or last sold for £210 is on sale for £230 (u/CyclonicCS) as well as one sold for the same price 21 days ago so maybe save yourself £80+ if purchasing second-hand.

Dunno if this is any good to you at Under £700. Wouldn't know where to start with a Z370 mobo but there's plenty within your price range. ☺️

P.S. I realise the i7 8700K must be de-lidded but is it not cheaper to DiY?

It’s still £303,99 at Amazon just they’ve hidden it well!
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/B07598VZR8/ref=mw_dp_olp?ie=UTF8&condition=new

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IEKG402/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521012120&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=2tb&dpPl=1&dpID=5152Tk32IxL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07598VZR8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521012014&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=i7+8700k&dpPl=1&dpID=51cmJqb4I2L&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075RHWCC4/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y8HXXRND52YXQAJCPVDA

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0134EW7G8/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y8HXXRND52YXQAJCPVDA

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005BE058W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521012102&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=evga+supernova+750&dpPl=1&dpID=51UcIW5x4QL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IR6LMLO/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521012187&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=1080&dpPl=1&dpID=51bpp6rWCmL&ref=plSrch


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073SBX6TY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521012150&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ssd+m.2&dpPl=1&dpID=41GJN9qS2CL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XX8Q1CL/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521012171&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=nzxt+kraken+x62

The parts are
8700k
Mobo z370
2x8gb ddr4
Kraken x62 to keep the cpu cool
Thx 1080(had to drop the ti due to prices)
M.2 ssd for boot drive
2tb hdd for storage
Evga supernova 750w
If you have extra change invest in noctua high static pressures fan to optimize cooling

I was looking at these,

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B41WS48/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_QbriDb42ZSS20


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0134EW7G8/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_NiriDb4735GCK

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F7W5KJS/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_djriDbXWZ6BG2

If you plan on doing any overclocking, there is a good motherboard tier list based on VRM's.

Also if you don't have an older generation Ryzen chip... You will want to check the list of motherboards that supports USB BIOS Flashback. This feature will allow you to flash the bios to the newer Zen 2 supporting bios without needing an older gen Ryzen chip. You may want to cross reference both of the lists.

The B450 Tomahawk is pretty reliable for the price and was just on sale (currently $100 on Amazon). It has decent VRM's, and it also supports the USB BIOS Flashback feature mentioned earlier. I personally just picked one up a few days ago on the last sale and plan to use that for my upcoming Zen 2 PC.

Wishing you luck on your future build!

PS: If you don't have a power supply yet, there is also a good PSU Tier list.

Get a B450 Tomahawk. Cheap and will overclock the 3600 easy.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F7W5KJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-lJiDb6T62SDF

Amazon is very flexible. Some items have free returns https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Crossfire-Motherboard-B450-Tomahawk/dp/B07F7W5KJS/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=b450+tomahawk&qid=1564295902&s=gateway&sr=8-1 for example.

If you claim its broken they pay the shipping fee, but if you put not needed anymore you havev to pay it

dont feel bad, its a huge company

Appreciate it, I'll just keep replying here if that's cool. Don't mind either way about PM but I do find lurkers might appreciate some of the advice. I'm set on the 2600, and its now 185 on Amazon so that helps. I'm pretty set on the tomahawk Mobo too which I think is lowest if you have prime.

I would like to see pics of the case, I hate the one I have its so dull and bulky but not also huge fan of the "I'M A GAMER" cases, which seem overpriced regardless. One you have is nice.

I might upgrade to a 1070 in a year+, from what I can tell that still pairs nicely with a 2600 but wanted to check. and lastly I do have 16 Gb of Ram but would consider getting some that works best with the Mobo and amd, did you already have Ram or did you buy to compliment the board.

edit: also would love a quite setup, my computer makes a decent amount of noise and I use it as part of the entertainment system.

What's the usage? Is this a budget build? How much RAM you need? is your case ATX or mATX?

For CPU, only 3600 will fit your budget out of the decent ones. Any lower and you'd be stepping into APU territory for low-budget builds.

Example combo: [3600] (https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-3600-12-Thread-Processor/dp/B07STGGQ18) ($195) + 16 GB RAM ($78) + B450 Tomahawk ($115) = $388.

This is US$ right, not Canadian or Australian?

this vs B450 Tomahawk for $115 or B450 ROG Strix for $120

Depends. How much are you looking to spend on one? if you are looking for something under $120 I can say this is pretty good. [I have heard many good things and have seen it used a lot.] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F7W5KJS/) Has good overclocking capabilities and still has the m.2 slot.

Well for cpu the ryzen 2600 is the best value cpu out there and gives great 1080p performance.
There are good b450 board like the Tomohawk b450 board which will fit right in that case I believe: https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Crossfire-Motherboard-B450-Tomahawk/dp/B07F7W5KJS

I just got this and it didn’t need a bios update.

I got the msi arsenal tomahawk. If you go to the Amazon warehouse used it's cheaper and there might still be a discount that brings it down to $71. Better then $110 new.

MSI Arsenal Gaming AMD Ryzen 1st and 2nd Gen AM4 M.2 USB 3 DDR4 DVI HDMI Crossfire ATX Motherboard (B450 Tomahawk) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F7W5KJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6aC4DbSZEMAPN

The discount is at checkout so you need to start the checkout process and see if it gives you the discount. If it doesn't you can always leave the checkout tab.

Thank you, I am upgrading from 4790k to 3600x, so I wanted a board with USB flash back, that's why I decided on the tomahawk.

This is the board I ordered

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07F7W5KJS?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

more photos: https://imgur.com/gallery/j6JjbJb

Case: Fractal Design Meshify-C

MoBo: MSI Tomahawk B450

GPU: Sapphire NITRO+ RX580 8GB G5 SE

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700x

Memory: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600)

Cables: upHere sleeved cables (amazon)

Power: EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G+

Hey bro i made this up in a few minutes, this should be the best bang for your buck, for the next couple years.




$1074

Ryzen 5 3600X
$234
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SQBFN2D/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=buildcoresx-20&linkId=2d3f71d0374068b18e41d03811e8cc8a&language=en_US

Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2060 Super WINDFORCE OC
$399
https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-WINDFORCE-Graphics-Windforce-GV-N206SWF2OC-8GD/dp/B07TT8QQ5M/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MPA948FRYPNS1XNEDGGJ&linkCode=ll1&tag=buildcoresx-20&linkId=c9360a8718f317b11938194ddb8b3b93&language=en_US


(2x8GB) Patriot Viper RGB 4133
$129
https://www.amazon.com/Patriot-Viper-Gaming-DDR4-4133MHz/dp/B07CX4ZW83/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1548893768&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ddr4+4133&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=buildcoresx-20&linkId=460c651c8574b6910def286d5bce0ca7&language=en_US

ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 512GB
$69
https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1HMMJC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=P5AWX69KXGB9KAKAVWTG&th=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=buildcoresx-20&linkId=5cb81bf81991186b2903de817ded070c&language=en_US

Asus TUF Gaming X570-Plus
$189
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-TUF-X570-Plus-Motherboard-Lighting/dp/B07SXFK1TP/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=%22x570%22&qid=1562636196&s=gateway&sr=8-7&linkCode=ll1&tag=buildcoresx-20&linkId=4e9b379d943d0270c124a67e221456f3&language=en_US

Thermaltake Smart 700W
$54
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Certified-Continuous-cooling-PS-SPD-0500NPCWUS-W/dp/B014W3EAX8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=5GD9E0T2WJ1XETZ33S3T&th=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=buildcoresx-20&linkId=4f418682bccde4472a22b671ee1c0697&language=en_US

Empty Case
$0
https://amzn.to/2RYUQ7f

Empty CPU Cooler
$0
https://amzn.to/2RYUQ7f

Empty Monitor
$0
https://amzn.to/2RYUQ7f

Generated by BuildCores on October 21, 2019 10:04 AM

You can get a Corsair 275R for $75, RX570 8GB for ~$175 and a 1060 for ~$250. You can also get a 1660 for ~$300.

(I got the case and the RX570 for those prices)

It depends on the province, but I'd say prices in Canada in general are slightly higher than States (except when stuff goes on sale in States)

Example:

Ryzen 3600X (Amazon.com) ($248 USD = $323.1 CAD)

Ryzen 3600X (Amazon.ca) ($348 CAD)

In QC, tax is 15% (well, 14.975%) so you'd end up paying $400 CAD while in NY tax is 8% so you'd pay $349CAD.

The approach I'm taking on my Pi 3-based "field computer" project is to use a buck converter to supply constant 5V to a 20000mah battery pack, in turn being fed by a cheapo 12V 30A switching PSU. That battery pack can pump out more than enough current for my purposes, but for higher amperage loads you could simply inject USB power directly from the buck converter rails.

Total cost of approximately $30 is competitive with a quality 5V 10A AC adapter. The benefit with this setup over an adapter is that by skipping the PSU stage and feeding straight off the buck converter, I can run off of essentially any common DC source, including car and motorcycle batteries. Of course, if the input voltage isn't 12V, you'll have to dial it in with the buck converter, but that's a small price for the ability to tap into all those 18V power tool batteries and even 36V golf carts & wheelchairs.

Note that there are a BUNCH of those "DROK" brand converters on Amazon. Some are boost only, some buck only, others have both stages on the same board for greatly increased flexibility at the cost of some conversion efficiency. Watch the voltage and amperage specs, assume that any stated thresholds are optimistic, and plan to do thermal testing and add additional cooling if needed for your application. If you can find them, and they are getting hard to find, the MingHe D3806 is pretty much the best, and is actually the one I'm using.

Note also to take care with wire resistance! Most especially, be mindful not to end up with a design that's got all 6 amps flowing over some generic USB cable with 28 gauge 5v strands.

I bought this for my makerfarm i3 8"

Amazon link, 12V 30A -> 360W

So how about you figure out what voltage the wallwarts output and then buy a single larger DC power supply to plug all of them into?
Something like this
Which would require cutting wires or

easier option no cutting

Get one of these and save yourself a lot of heartaches :
http://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1458795481&sr=8-2&keywords=12v+power+supply

Just a cheap one from Amazon. Someone did a video about how much power the various parts of the A8 pulled, I think the bed was 11watts, the hot end 4watts and one watt per stepper. And that the stock psu struggled to put out 20 watts. So the one I got was 30 watts and both the bed and hot end heat up faster. I went ahead and set up dual mosfets, because why not? They cost 10 bucks for 2 and potentially divert 15 watts from passing through the notoriously prone to melting motherboard.

eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_em_taa_Bs8uCbH65ZK0T

How are you gearing down the motor that you linked? At 4500rpm its going to have very little torque. I'd go for something like this paired with something like this.

I have everything daisy chained together from a 12v power supply.


3528 2 Pin LED Strip Jumper Connector... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0739V9DRR?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Striveday™68pcs 2p Spring Connector... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KT91OEW?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Regular red/black wire.

eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Grey Wire Connector Pack, Bag of 100... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L0GN4YQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


Should get you in the right direction.

8" coaxial x4 $52 shipped

12" sub $30 shipped

Bluetooth head unit $37 shipped

sub amp $50 shipped

PSU $20

box and miscellaneous puts you over budget a tad. But powering the coaxials with the headunit, efficient sub... should sound good and get loud.

Probably not, get this power supply https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=eTopxizu+12v+30a+Dc&qid=1555679452&s=gateway&sr=8-3 and also get a v6 hotend, trianglelab sells near identical ones for $15, the stock heatbreak has a tendency to fall out

If it's useful, I too just got started, and built a similar drone. When it came to charging, I had to read a ton of stuff. Here's what I did (all non-referral Amazon links. you may find cheaper on banggood if you want to wait forever):

ISDT Charger

12v Power Supply

Balance Charger

To connect these up, it may be useful to have some extra XT60 plugs since the power supply won't have XT60, and neither does the balance charger.

With these optional parts, I was able to make a nice looking (and more safe) charger from the power supply, along with a 3d print available here


Voltmeter

Power plug

I found this to be a pretty fun project, and wasn't as expensive as some options I saw on HobbyKing or everywhere else. To be fair, it wasn't the cheapest option either.

Wow, you just solved it and I am an idiot. I ordered 2 Power Supplies, one was supposed to be this 12V 360W PSU for the RAMPS/etc. and the other is this 24V 500W PSU exclusively for the Heated Bed.

I could have sworn I double checked but I just looked and it seems I have 2 24V PSUs. Was looking for the model number on the one connected to the RAMPS and it says s-360-24 on the side sigh.

Well that explains why it fried it. Time to return that for the correct PSU.

I noticed my heated bed stopped working after a >24h print a few days ago. Inspecting the bed-side wires, Everything looked alright, but when I opened up the casing (It's a Robo R1+), I found that one wire on the power supply melted down.

My options are to either replace the whole supply, OR to simply replace the wire. For reference, It's a S-360-12
. I'm pretty split on which one to go with, as they've got essentially the same amount of work to them.

I do find it interesting, however, that the burnout only caused the heated bed to stop functioning, as the power is delivered (and distributed by) the ramps board. I would have expected more than one thing to give out.

Thank you for the reply. I was looking at buying this on amazon, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oTZiybZ0PN7ZE, do you think that'll be a good one?

I bought an i3x at the beginning of June. Some thoughts are below. The tl;dr: Not the prettiest parts, and a subpar hotend, but I wanted an aluminum frame (humidity in my state is horrid) and knew I was buying a long-term project anyways. Overall, I'm happy with my purchase. Feel free to PM me if you have specific questions or whatever.

• They had some minor supply chain issues that delayed the shipping of my printer by a week or so, since their source for fasteners was backordered. Mine were drop-shipped, and got to me a few days after the rest of the parts. They also had to send me a few printed parts that got left out of the kit, but since it was just the brackets that attach the bed to the Y-rails, I was able to improvise temporarily with some bits from home depot so it didn't set me back at all.
  
  
• As mentioned, I mainly went with them over some of the other budget i3 options because my budget was limited and I wanted an aluminum frame. Having built the printer now, I'd feel comfortable with an acrylic frame, although I'm glad I didn't go with wood for my region.
  
  
• Expect to be buying a long-term project. While it's pretty dependable so far, I've got a handful of improvements I'm working on (listing those below), and would really like to upgrade to another hotend in the near future. I was expecting this, and it's why I bought a reprap kit instead of a commercial printer - It lets me make incremental upgrades along the way and experiment with it instead of trying to find the perfect printer out of the box now.
  
  
• Printed parts aren't the prettiest: most holes needed drilling with the proper drill bit, some minor sanding. Only really frustrating bit were the parts that hold the belt on the X or Y carriage, which required a lot of sanding to get the belts to fit (and I didn't want to risk a higher power tool, since too much room would be bad). Nothing has broken in about a month of use, with about 2kg of filament used.
  
  
• All the metal parts and fasteners are sufficient - galvanized steel for the threaded rod isn't the prettiest, but is perfectly functional for a frame. Fasteners are all quality and nothing has stripped or misbehaved.
  
  
• The hotend is the one thing you'll see consistent complaints about - I don't think anyone really likes it. I got the 1.75mm / .5mm version. It works ok (as mentioned above), but has a tendency to ooze from the joint between the brass and the PEEK, and last time I had it apart the PTFE tube inside had started to mushroom slightly - I'd save the $50 on the printer price and go ahead and buy another compatible hotend if I were you. The slot on the extruder is a standard size, so installing another hotend shouldn't be hard at all. I decided to go with their hotend since I didn't know anything about the standards involved, and was concerned I'd end up with a hotend that wouldn't quite fit, without a working printer to make a replacement mount - which was a somewhat unfounded concern. Go ahead and buy a JHead or e3d, it'll be worth the effort, and the cost isn't much different.
  
  
• Print Quality is pretty good - some ooze as mentioned, but I think at least some of that can be blamed on my retraction settings (still working on ironing out those..). I had access to a non-functional 3d printer at my office (early mendel variant) that I am currently working on rehabilitating, and the print quality on my printer is better than my coworkers were ever able to get out of the office printer. There's room for improvement, but mainly in aesthetics and how much cleanup is required - mechanically they're perfectly sound.
  
  
• Electronics are a bit of a mixed bag - the RAMPS board is nice (glad I went with a RAMPS board instead of one of the other single-board solutions), but the stepsticks are of questionable quality (PCB material is oddly rounded on the edges like it was snapped by hand, and the trimpots don't behave like they're described on the wiki articles about the pololu-style drivers). I also suspect that the 'Arduino' is a Chinese knockoff instead of a real Arduino, but it looks and functions just fine. The heated bed supplied works great, kinda wish they included a Power Supply (I sourced mine here.
  
  
  Things I want to improve include:
  
  
• Endstops: i3x uses little clips that friction-fit on the smooth rods, but they're a bit too loose for my tastes, and aren't very easy to adjust small amounts. I'm planning on trying this out for my z-axis at least, which will hopefully solve that problem.
  
  
• Extruder/x-carriage: The slot that the hotend mounts in is covered by the large gear on the extruder, so I have to unmount that gear to remove the hotend. I had some crappy filament snap off just out of reach (testing some of the old PLA stockpile that was purchased with the work printer a few years back), and had to remove the hotend to get it out - since that gear attaches to a locknut, it's a massive pain to remove. Looking at alternative x-carriages, but should be solvable since everything is standard sizes.
  
  
• I'm gathering materials to rework the wiring harness. Some of the wires are slightly shorter than I'd like, the thermistor wires are too short to bundle up with the extruder motor wires running over the top of the frame, and I really don't like the crimp connectors that they sent along for the motor wires - they're functional, but I've never had much luck with crimp connectors holding long-term, and they don't look good.

I'm on my phone so I can't really link it, but I posted a while back about a cheap power supply. It's the one I use daily and works great. For $23 I don't see how you could beat it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D7CWSCG

Thank you for the input! And thank you very much for offering to send me that MOSFET, but I actually just ordered the same one! Ha. I ordered a new PSU ( think this one is ok? ) Do you have any links or guides you recommend for the hotbed upgrades?


Edit: I wasn't aware of the fire hazards until I got this thing put together, is it really that bad? After I setup the MOSFET is it safe?

I was going to do the same, but got these. Glad I went with the standard supply, it mounts to the i3V frame as well. You can skip the cord if you have one already, just cut the one end off.

$22.14 12v20a
Cord

Yes and no. You can get a PCIe USB 3.0 hub, which is about as close to swapping them out. If you had the knowledge (and your motherboard has a USB 3.0 header), you could swap out the ports, but if you have to ask if it's possible, you probably don't have the skills to do so.

Here is an example of one there are many like it

http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1407361739&sr=8-5&keywords=usb+3+card+pci+express

Well typical boards usually have enough USB for most people. Typical case gives you two USB3 on the front by connecting to one of the USB3 ports on the motherboard. Many cases also give you two USB2.

If you need more USB, you should use the internal ones on the board first. There are back panel versions, e.g.

http://www.amazon.com/uxcell%C2%AE-Motherboard-Cable-Panel-Bracket/dp/B0087ZAYTC?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

or front panel versions for 3.5" or 5.25" bay, e.g.

http://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Front-Panel-Connector-Adapter/dp/B00J4EZE4U?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

If you still need more than you can add a PCI-E card, e.g. this one is recommend by Oculus:

http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA

As for number of slots, I am not sure what is the confusion and they are all clearly list in the specification. Let's use a bigger as an example:

https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/Z170-A/specifications/

> 2 x PCIe 3.0/2.0 x16 (x16 or dual x8)
1 x PCIe 3.0/2.0 x16 (max at x4 mode) *1
3 x PCIe 3.0/2.0 x1
1 x PCI

So there are 6 PCI-E slots. A PCI-E x1 card can be used by any slot that is same size or longer, so anyone of them can be used by the USB card. But you don't waste a x16 slot for that. The first x16 slot will be used by the video card, and the next slot will be useless since it is covered by the big video card. So any open x1 slot can be used for the USB card.

Note that PCI (no E) is the old legacy slot. Just ignore it since you cannot fit any PCI-E card on it.

Before worrying about all that, I would try a pci-e usb 3.0 expansion card if you're having issues with the USB3 built in hardware on your motherboard. IMHO the FX-8300 would be fine still as long as you're doing your encoding via a capture card, or via something like NVENC. I don't know that I would trust it with software encoding while gaming. Benchmark-wise, multi-core on the FX-8300 is pretty similar to an i5 4570, which is still pretty capable for the most part.

Something like this may work as long as you have an empty pci-e slot. https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA/

Caveats: 1) No real hardware upgrade, which can be both a good and bad thing. 2) System still not technically supported by Elgato.

Other notes: The latest "high-end" AMD CPUs to use DDR3 were the FX series I believe, and I currently use an FX-8300 in my home fileserver, and an i5 4590 in my gaming PC. The latest generation of Intel that used DDR3 was the 5th gen (i3,i5,i7 5xxx), which are fairly rare in desktop form, the latest generation mainstream was the 4th gen, which is really very similar to the 8-core FX series performance-wise, with the i5/i7 of that generation having the slight (in the case of i5) to slightly greater (in the case of i7) edge over the FX 8-cores.

Realistically you're probably looking into new ram/cpu/motherboard if you chose to upgrade to get any reasonable performance boost, everything else would likely be compatible, as expansion cards like graphics cards, other things like power supplies and hard drives and dvd drives, haven't really changed in regards to how they connect to the motherboard.

Front panel hub, rear panel bracket, or expansion cards.

1. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Front-Panel-5-25-Inch-35BAYUSB3S4/dp/B007L5K14W
   
2. https://www.amazon.com/JacobsParts-Motherboard-Panel-Bracket-Cable/dp/B00D960RPU
   
3. https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA

USB issue. Your USB ports are not strong enough. You will need to buy this that goes inside your pc or this that plugs into a usb 3.0 port

I was in the same boat as you. Tried everything and the only solution left was the PCIe method. I realize I had that usb 3.0 hub and figured, "Why not?" Amazingly, it works and keeps working. 3 months now and no video issues. Though, my sound does go off once in a while but its easy to fix by just going into sound manager, disabling the rift sound, and then reenabaling it.

i was having a similar issue but if i were you i would think about just getting this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA/ reason being at least you know you are sorted day one.. nobody wants to get their rift open it up have problems and have to wait another 6 to 10 days for some other delivery and you could just leave these 4 ports just for your rift and have many more usb ports for future use... besides the price is worth insuring you wont be screwed when the guy delivers your rift some morning.. good luck and happy rifting pal :)

It looks like it has an open PCIE slot x1 which would allow this card to be used: http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA

edit: And a pic of the motherboard

When you say
>Oculus Controller

Do you mean the Oculus Touch controllers? Because if so, they don't need USB at all. The breakdown goes:

• Audio DAC + IMU(s) tracking data
  
• Oculus Sensor 1
  
• Oculus Sensor 2 (for the Touch controllers later this year)
  
• (USB 2.0): Xbox One Wireless PC Adapter
  
  At launch, it only needs 2x USB 3.0 ports and 1x USB 2.0 port. Later this year, you would need another USB 3.0 port for the second camera sensor but then you wouldn't need the USB 2.0 port for the xbox controller since you would be using Touch at that point.
  
  So at most, 3 ports (2x 3.0 & 1x 2.0 / 3x 3.0)
  
  But yes, at the least you would need 3 ports to play, which some people don't have the luxury of having. In that case, there are options for PCI-E expansions, such as this one that offer you plenty of ports for your needs.

You need to get a PCIE card that is small enough for your smaller slots and then just connect the Rift directly to your motherboard.

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B00FPIMICA/

Use this one for your things like keyboard, mouse etc., and directly connect the rift to the mobo. Your motherboard isn't going to work in this configuration according to your manual.

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500393928&sr=8-1&keywords=Inateck+Superspeed+7+Ports+PCI-E+to+USB+3.0+Expansion+Card

Inateck (or anything else with a FrescoLogic 1100 chipset, but the Inateck is the most readily available) is the Oculus recommended PCIe card for adding USB 3 ports. You can buy them on amazon. They have a few different variants. Inateck also sell some cards using the NEC D720201 chipset. Don't get those. Any of their cards with model numbers beginning with KTU3FR are good. If you want the one with the most usb ports, you want the KTU3FR-502I or KTU3FR-502U. The 5O2I is 5 usb ports on the back with a usb header like on your motherboard to connect 2 more to a case. The 502U has 5 usb ports on the back and 2 usb ports on the inside which I guess you could route the cables out of your case if it has cable holes.

I know people have mentioned what extension cables they have used successfully on this reddit, but it doesn't look like it has been documented on this reddit's wiki. I think it has been mentioned it is pretty hit or miss even when you buy ones other people have used successfully.

Could be. Reinstall your GPU drivers and make sure your USB drivers are up to date.

If you do have USB problems you can add a PCIe USB card but that's assuming that there is nothing wrong with the headset.

> a single PCI-E v2 lane only has enough bandwidth for one USB3 port, and a PCI-E v3 lane only has enough for 2

Right. I can only guess the Oculus devices won't all be equally bandwidth hungry. I'd expect the headset to be the biggest hog, and the 3d Positional Tracker and Oculus Touch somewhere behind (uneducated guess).
I plan on buying the card they recommend since I only have 2 USB3 ports on my mobo, and just to be safe dedicate 2 of the 7 ports for Oculus (PCI-E v3 lane), leaving the other ones unused.

Inateck PCI-E to USB 3.0 5-Port PCI Express Card and 15-Pin Power Connector, Mini PCI-E USB 3.0 Hub Controller Adapter, with Internal USB 3.0 20-PIN C https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_EWhJf1l5AngGk


That's what I'm using and it's working great

You can get PCIe internal USB cards. Some of them have internal headers as well as external ports. Did a quick search and found this option that might work.

Hey, just to let you know, I think this is a problem with the ASUS Z710 series, as I have gone down the same road as you, and someone else mentioned also having the same problems with a Z710 series board. I know it isn't the Vive because it works with no issue on another box in the exact same room and set up. I'm thinking there is something with their USB and talking to the Link Box, and I'm hoping I can find something in the BIOS to tweak. I'd say hold onto it, and if you are really at the end of your rope, buy a different MB. I'll let you know if I figure anything out. EDIT: Also try uninstalling the Asus AI Suite if you have it installed, and Corsair Link...others said this helped, though it did not for me.

EDIT: Looks like a common solution is to get a USB PCIe card which uses a different USB host controller, as the ASMedia USB host controller on the asus Z170 boards is crap, and buggy. This is the recommended one.

I'm actually using a USB 3.0 PCIe card already, have been since i got my WMR. This is it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMICA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&th=1

During trouble shooting i'll often try using my mobos 3.0 port which doesn't change anything.

I haven't tried reinstalling the usb drivers and I'm honestley confused by it. Not sure what a controller is, am i reinstalling the driver for my USB 3.0 PCIe expansion card? Or for the HMD?

OP and all affected by this: I also ran into this after the latest update. It clearly introduced some bugs. That said, here is everything I did, and I'm finally playing Beat Saber on my Rift with 0 (read again, 0) lag. (That said, there is certainly still a bug where if a box is hit the wrong direction, or with the wrong saber color, sometimes the controller does not vibrate)

I am listing below WHAT WORKED, and leaving out all the things I tried that didn't work..it's an exhausting list..cables, reseating the rift headset jack under the face mask..etc. This did not help me. Rift worked great in every other game.

• Purchased an external USB 3 card to give the Rift headset (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMICA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) I ordered the one with the two internal USB ports too. Note: USB add-in card is not needed if your system already has enough USB channels to give the Rift and each sensor its own channel. Google USB channels for instructions on finding this out. ((If you have your controllers vibrating very lightly and you are using good batteries, THIS. This is why. You need a USB channel with nothing else on it for the Rift Headset. The Rift Sensors should each be on their own channels for best performance too, but can share the USB channel with other devices too.))
  
• Turned off Night Light in Windows 10 Display settings. My problems manifested more at night and this, once known, was a very likely culprit
  
• Placed each Rift Sensor on its own USB channel. I also unplug the mouse/keyboard and other peripherals during VR, because I have a Steelseries LED mouse/kb and they bugger up the USB channel with all the lighting.
  
• Close out any unnecessary apps from the system tray.
  
• If you use a USB extension to get a Rift sensor further away, make sure it's an ACTIVE USB extender. Passive, or normal, ones degraded my signal. This, and the Win10 Night Light are the biggest reasons I was getting Beat Saber lag. I have an Active cable on order and went back to no extension/both sensors in front of me for the time being.
  
• Installed Oculus Tray Tool (https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/5okoju/oculus_tray_tool/) and set USB Standby to Disabled, among some other settings I can't recall. All the settings have to do with fine-tuning the VR experience, so poke around and see what works for you.
  
• ***Disclaimer***: Editing the registry is NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART*** I changed the priority of the GPU for games using this guide. I've had no problems at all, but the registry is risky to mess with and I am unsure what effect this had with Beat Saber. I'm listing it only because Beat Saber runs perfectly now.Skip to the "Make some changes in your registry" section: https://www.windowscentral.com/how-ensure-best-vr-performance-your-pc
  
  Doing all of this, the noteworthy ones being Windows 10 Night Light being turned off, the USB add-in card/dedicated channel for the Rift headset USB, and the Oculus Tray Tool, my Beat Saber now runs flawlessly!! I moved up from Hard to Expert (and even Expert with Fast Song turned on) overnight purely as a result of this game running like it should now. I can actually hit what I see, and the game registers it.
  
  ​
  
  Computer Setup:
  
  
• Oculus Rift with 2 sensors (3rd sensor with USB active repeater/extension cable in the mail)
  
• MSI MoBo with AMD RYZEN 7 1700X 8-Core 3.4 GHz
  
• 16gb DDR3 RAM
  
• MSI Gaming Z 2070 RTX GPU
  
• Samsung 1tb SSD running only Oculus Games
  
• SanDisk 128gb SSD for Windows 10 installation
  
• Liquid cooler for CPU
  
• 850w Power Supply
  
  My specs are overkill for VR and Rift (see: Robo Recall) worked fine with my MSI Nvidia 970 GPU too, but Beat Saber still lagged (after the latest update) until I made all the changes above. Beat Saber clearly has some bugs/compatibility problems to work out, and it seems the devs have more important things to do than fix these given how long it is between updates being released for PC. We're a forgotten lot. :( Perhaps the modding community will find a way to patch the game to actually fix these bugs.
  
  ​
  
  I do hope that my tips help even one person out there also experiencing this issue. This game is what VR was for! If anybody has more tips please please please share them! Everybody should be able to enjoy this game as it was supposed to be!
  
  ​
  
  edit: Corrected CPU specs in my Computer Setup

Pending you have an open PCI-E slot, there are USB 3.0 expansion cards that are compatible with the Rift for cheap. I got this one for ~$30.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMICA

Was having the same issues as many; tracking going wonky, unable to detect USB during setup, etc. Finally fixed mine!

This is the USB 3.0 card I'm using:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMICA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I plugged the Rift S into the far right port (looking at the back of the PC). I moved my other USB peripherals to other ports.

I don't know if this was pure luck, but I had been fighting this for 2 days straight. I hope this helps someone else.

​

*Edit*: I got a few hours of sleep last night to think about this some more. On the Rift CV1, each sensor was a separate USB connection. But on the Rift S, all 5 sensors (the cameras) are going thru a single USB 3.0 connection, and I'm guessing this requires a fair bit more of bandwidth.

I ended up having to buy a usb 3.0 pcie card as the headset wouldn't work at all on the ASMedia 0.96 drivers.

I got one and had absolutely no luck with it so I returned it. I will admit that I did love the charging IQ ports. This was a couple months ago though. I think I saw somewhere that they had updated their drivers and work now but I'm not 100%. I went with this though: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMICA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

edit: for sake of a timeline, my return history on Amazon shows I returned my Anker hub July 29

I'm running 3 sensors + Rift all on a 7 port Inateck card with 2 USB controllers All reading as 3.0 with no problems. 2 sensors on one controller, third sensor w/active 3.0 extension cable + Rift headset on the second.

a PSA should be used for hard facts, not your single experience :\

Get any computer power supply. This is the first one that came up on amazon and it will do up to 34 amps on the 12V rail: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4

Edit: Amazon also has some for ~$20.

The website says it has a 300w PSU. Technically speaking there should be no problem since the 750 ti has a very low power intake.
To be on the safe side I would suggest getting this PSU
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-80PLUS-Certified-ATX12V-100-W1-0430-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1411319791&sr=1-3&keywords=psu

I'd recommend a PSU from a more reputable brand:

http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-80PLUS-Certified-ATX12V-100-W1-0430-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4

Hey it's me again. I have a HP p7-1120 and need a new power supply cus I got a new video card. I want this one but how do I know if it'll fit?

The PSU is probably not very good, and I don't really understand AMDs naming scheme, but the CPU looks okay, the GPU is perfectly fine, the case looks pretty cool, and AFAICT it should be fine for cooling, if it ever seems to be under performing, or less than six months after you get it, I suggest putting in a better PSU, at least rated for 400 watts, any name brand should be fine, because I'm not in europe I can't really tell you which one would be both cheap and good, but in america this one is pretty much the best PSU on a budget.

I'm sorry Automod, pcpartpicker's referral links are the bane of my existence.

I would get a cheaper gpu and cheaper psu and not bother with that sketchy amazon vendor for ram. using pcpp, these look solid

EVGA 430w

80+ efficiency, reputable brand, and decent cables.
Can be had for 5-10$ cheaper though, I'd say its still worth it.

Hey, sorry about the late reply. I had an early night (received your message at 11pm here in the UK).

Thanks for the picture. That seems to be a generic PSU. It may run fine for now but who knows how long it will last, and what it might take along with it, if it does end up dying. It would be ideal that you upgrade to a decent PSU with an 80 plus rating. Such as this.

The 750 ti would do you just fine. You can check out some benchmarks, here. You should be getting around an average of 45fps in Far Cry 4 at 1080p and a solid 60fps in Skyrim (set to ultra, with anti aliasing turned down). However, it will struggle when trying to run ACU, as it's a terribly optimized game which even 980s in SLI have trouble running at a stable 60fps.

If you have the money to spend, I'd recommend you upgrade your PSU to something like this and going for the gtx 970.

Feel free to give me shout if you have any questions. =]

Sure! It's this one. I went for the lowest wattage I could find as this system has very low requirements and also looked for something with a 120mm fan so it would be as quiet as possible.

Looks good. But that PSU is really expensive. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-ATX12V-Supply-120-G1-0650-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405969637&sr=8-1&keywords=650w+psu

Is much better for the price.

Does it have to be new? I just bought this for $55 on Amazon Warehouse Deals with 20% off.

The 650 watt but This is a better deal than both of them

You won't be able to overclock with that motherboard you picked. You need a p67/z68 mobo like this.

You'll probably want an aftermarket CPU cooler, so I suggest this

For the SSD I suggest you get this

You picked a 5400RPM HDD, you want a 7200RPM like this if you need to store lots of files like pictures, movies, etc then get 1 7200rpm and 1 5400rpm.

Personally I'd go with a more cost effective SLI/Crossfire solution for your video card, the 580 is pretty bad when it comes to price/performance. You can get two 570's/6950's and it will cost about the same, if not less, and you will get much more performance.

Case is up to you, but I suggest something like the HAF912

And finally, your power supply is a bit overkill. At most, 750W is what you need if you take my advice and sli/crossfire 570s/6950s.

Wow, thanks a lot for that :) I'll be awaiting your review haha. Any major difference in this or this? I am planning on over clocking.

Hey! Very nice build, congrats!

Also, you should have a look at the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus. I am building a setup similar to yours and for all your needs it will work flawlessly. Although the Liquid Coolers are also very attractive but there are always the inherent risks - such as the tube splitting and the liquid leaking, frying your beloved components in the process.

It could be a poor seal between the heatsink and CPU which would be alleviated by remounting the heatsink, although you would need to reapply some Thermal Compound. I would certainly consider a step up to the Cooler Master Hyper 212+, it is only $20 and will be a huge improvement.

> It can't be that much worse, can it?

It has far less overclocking headroom. The 960T should get to 4GHz easily and you also might be able to unlock it to a hex core CPU. Personally, I wouldn't get the 925.

I also wouldn't grab that mobo. This Gigabyte has better power phases for overclocking and has more upgrade room. It even has a combo with the FX-4100. Alternatively, this Asus and this ASRock are around the same price, but have more upgrade room, but fewer VRMs than the Gigabyte.

There's no reason not to get the Hyper 212+ when it's $21 at Amazon. You'll have a cooler running computer and be able to overclock further with it.

Personally, I don't care for single sticks of RAM. I'd spend $8 more and get this 8GB Kingston kit. If you can't afford it, get this G.Skill stick.

Depending on what you mean by 'media' that 2500K is pretty overkill. You can get nearly identical gaming performance from the significantly less expensive i3-2100.

I wouldn't call that Zalman cooler superfluous, but I wouldn't pick it over the favored 212+ unless you have solid evidence showing how quiet it is. You should see what sites like SilentPCreview and Guru3D consider the leaders in quiet cooling at the moment.

You can definitely save a good deal of money with any one of these ASRock micro ATX motherboards. That Asus is enormously more expensive than you need.

The GTX 560TI is a good choice. You should consider this MSI twin frozr 6950 2GB card for only ten bucks more. It is the more powerful card in nearly every case. MSI also makes some of the coolest cards around, which is of primary importance for a microATX build like this one.

You probably don't need all 16 GB of that RAM. You should stick with this set instead.

You also won't need that 650W power supply. With a single mid-range GPU, at most you'll need is 500W. I would recommend finding a well reviewed, modular unit around 500W instead.

Everything is compatible. I don't know much about that motherboard but it is gigabyte so that's respectable. The only thing you need to get is a cpu cooler. the cooler master 212 plus it the most popular around these parts.

Are you planning on overclocking? If so, you should pick up a better CPU cooler. Many people around here like the Hyper 212+. For $20, you can get a 300-1200 mhz increase in your CPU speed.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G1YPH0/?tag=pcpapi-20

If you're going with the 570, you might wana look into gtx 560 ti 448 core cards. One at ncix for $280. 560 448 is supposed to have similar performance as the 570.

Edit: noticed on another thread you can get the cooler for $20 at amazon

You say you're using a Storm Scout? A Hyper 212+ will fit in that case just fine:

http://i.imgur.com/c62QS.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/OPeWZ.jpg


Other than that, if you're looking for a low profile cooler for the same or less than the cost of the Hyper 212+, the Arctic Freezer 7 Pro Rev. 2 or Cooler Master Hyper TX3 should be fine. But considering the Hyper 212+ fits in the Scout, and it only costs $26 on Amazon, I'd say that's your best option.

If you're willing to pay 25 shipped for it, might as well just get it for $28, brand new

If it wasn't for those raptors you'd be able to squeak by with a considerably less beefy power supply, but you'll probably be looking at this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371045

and the r/buildapc favorite

http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-Sleeve-RR-B10-212P-G1/dp/B002G1YPH0/

Edit: If you're feeling adventurous, you can oil the fan in your power supply:

http://www.dansdata.com/fanmaint.htm

I suggest using the mineral oil mentioned in the article. When you open a power supply though you need to be EXTREMELY careful, the big capacitors in a power supply hold a charge for a long time and can shock the life out of you.

I would NEVER use the stock fan. Pick up the cooler master 212, which is great for overclocking, inexpensive and in general just an awesome addon to your computer.

you've got a good start, there are a couple of easy upgrades you could make to optimize your build.

you can upgrade your hard drive to a samsung f3 1TB for $5, and you could upgrade your graphics card to a GTX 560 for $20. both of those upgrades are worth it, and neither costs alot.

if you're planning on overclocking your 2500K, i would definitely add a CPU cooler like the Coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus. even if you're not overclocking, it's a good upgrade to keep your system's temperature down.

Don't forget to get a optical drive, especially if you plan on installing your OS from a disc. this is a cheap read/write drive, however if you want to play blu-rays; you'll need something like this. but you won't be able to burn discs with that drive.

if you're looking to save some money, you won't need 8GB of RAM unless you plan on dealing with large/complex files. 4GB is plenty for gaming. if you're going to be doing heavy video/photo/vector/3D editing, then 8GB is worth it. However; RAM is cheap right now; 8GB is no longer unreasonable for average users.

If you want to connect to a wireless connection, you'll need an adapter

don't forget your peripherals! unless you already own them, you'll need a keyboard, mouse and monitor.

you'll also need an OS; newegg carries all versions of windows 7. they have a good deal on 64-bit home premium OEM. I don't recommend getting a 32-bit operating system, 64-bit systems can emulate a 32-bit OS to run any 32-bit applications you may need. it is possible to install apple software, but it is a legal gray area. consult /r/hackintosh for more information.

have fun building, let me know how it goes!

What case do you have? If it is a large enough case, I would swap out that CPU cooler to something like the Hyper 212+ It'll save money and also perform a bit better.

Motherboard: That will work just fine. I believe the quote you listed is telling you to buy an add-on card which connects to your motherboard through a PCI slot and gives you extra USB ports like this. That mothboard has 4 USB 2.0 ports and 2 USB 3.0 ports and your case has two front panel USB ports. This brigns your total USB ports up to 8. If you need more than 8 then you can buy an add-on card or back plate that attaches to the USB connections on the motherboard. The latter looks like this. The black thing obviously goes to the motherboard.

CPU: Depending on how much video editing you do you might be able to drop down to the 2500K. The 2600K will be better for video editing, but if you really need to save money and don't edit enough to justify the price increase then you can get the 2500K.

GPU: The 570 is pretty good and you would want to get an EVGA card because they have a lifetime warranty. You can also get the 6950 which is slightly worse (maybe 10% less FPS) but costs about $80 less.

Hard drive: Switch to the Samsung Spinpoint F3. It's cheaper, faster (the 6 Gb/s on the WD is crap, HDD can't even get up to 3 Gb/s), and more reliable. If you have extra money then get an SSD. One of the best upgrades you can give your computer. They are crazy fast

Everything else looks good. Make sure to get an aftermarket CPU cooler if you overclock. The Cooler Master Hyper 212+ is great.

I've got my Q6600 running at 50c max even in Bad Company 2 with a Hyper 212+ http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-Sleeve-RR-B10-212P-G1/dp/B002G1YPH0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1309753465&sr=8-1
and 2 of these in a push pull http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Sleeve-Bearing-blades-FN121/dp/B000C1DXLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1309753490&sr=8-1
I would actually get one of those fans to act as a rear exhaust also.

PC Part Picker should do everything for you. They give you the option to filter by compatibility with the parts you already selected.

Since you're using an i5, any motherboard with an LGA1155 socket will be compatible. You should go for one with a p67 chipset.

This is a pretty popular CPU cooler.

your motherboard would allow sli, but i dont know if your psu could handle it.

your case isnt the problem with your temps, its your cooler.

if youre going to spend that much on a cooler, buy this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608018

its basically the best on the market.

but you could get by on a lot less if you wanted to.

something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-Sleeve-RR-B10-212P-G1/dp/B002G1YPH0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1303803446&sr=8-1

would be a lot better than stock but for less money than the noctua.

theres obviously a ton of options in between there as well.

$25 will get you this -- Mine easily keeps my 2500k under 50C even at 24/7 max load and 30-35 idle. From what I've seen/heard, you can't really do much better without spending close to $100, and you really don't need more unless you're trying to overclock past about 4.5GHz.

What kind of heatsink and fan are on the CPU?

I have the same CPU - the stock heatsink and fan ended up getting really loud on me, but this fixed it.

Looks pretty good to me. The only thing you really need to change is the RAM. What you have selected is 1.65V which Sandy Bridge doesn't like. Here's some cheaper similarly performing 1.5V RAM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226191

Also since you have the 2500K I'm guessing you're gonna OC, so you should tack on a 212 for cooling: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G1YPH0/?tag=pcpapi-20

Also look to raserei's post for more suggestions. The only thing I disagree with is waiting for Ivy Bridge. Intel has been delaying the hell of out it for a while now. Also the Z68 mobo you have is cheap enough so downgrading to a P67 probably wouldn't be worth it.

Nice build.

He could always swap the CPU for the $110 FX-4100 and overclock the shit out of it. The compatible mobo would be $60. He could make that difference by not getting the DVD drive and just getting one later. He can then OC the FX-4100 quite far with the Hyper 212 and call it a day for a total of about $30 more at $815.

Hell, if he was really serious and wanted to destroy pretty much any game in existence, he'd drop the 6870 and pick up two HIS 6850's for $100 more (he'd have to grab this). He could make up that $100 difference by pirating windows (don't pretend nobody here does that) and then he'd be playing any game at ultra settings with no questions asked.

The best bang for the buck seems to be the Cooler Master Hyper 212 plus

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G1YPH0/?t=slickdeals&ascsubtag=qCEoQkCwEeO95-ZWJb0cRAaGt7_0HZl3_0_0_0 The Hyper 212 Plus is on sale for $17 after mail in rebate. Not going to get anything that good for that cheap anywhere else.

...but I'd still get the EVO.

pcpartpicker.com

So if you don't want to overclock, you can go with a much cheaper mobo. Sorry, no suggestions from me. I didn't research in non-OC parts.

If you want the hyper 101, you want the I version:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G1YPH0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002G1YPH0&linkCode=as2&tag=logicaincrem-20

But most people reccomend the 212evo:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G1YPH0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002G1YPH0&linkCode=as2&tag=logicaincrem-20

It seems that the 212 evo is superior for a small price increase. And the 101 you chose (the intel version) is only available from 3rd parties.

I ended up getting the Hyper 212 Plus because I read some reviews that said it was quieter than the Evo. I've never had an Evo, so I have no basis of comparison, but I just installed the Plus last night, and it was definitely quieter all day today than the stock cooler I took out of there.

On a separate but related note - I have a quad monitor setup, with 2 GPUs, 3770k, and WD Black, so my office gets pretty hot. The old fan I was using to cool the room was too loud for me to keep it on when having meetings on Skype. So I ordered a Vornado 660. On the lowest setting, it keeps me nice and cool, and is damn near silent, even from up close. So quiet in fact, that after I bought it, that's when I decided to replace the stock CPU cooler, as that was then the loudest thing in the room. So, I definitely recommend that Vornado - worth every penny.

Most of the computer noise comes from what is called the CPU "heatsink" - a small fan on top of the very small processor. It is usually a VERY good idea to replace the heatsink for various reasons, but also decreases sound issues (as the fans are better, larger, better designed structure, etc.) Heatsinks depend on some part on what type of CPU/Processor you have. This is the one I have: CPU Heatsink for AMD edit: it should be noted that the linked heatsink is compatible with a large array of CPUs, just check if yours is there! =)

Sound can also be caused by your case (vents, insulation, set up, rattling, etc.), the amount and size of the fans (larger fans are quieter - less rotations, or whatever).

Also, when installing heatsinks - or anything else - just save yourself the trouble and google an installation video on youtube.

Theres plenty of these things. Here's a cheap one.

I know you probably want a fast solution, but if you do not have a power supply you can substitute you will need something like this: http://www.amazon.com/eForCity-24-pin-Power-Supply-Tester/dp/B005CTCD6S/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

I do not have personal experience with that one, but I do own this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002R06PGE/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Even if you don't need a tester right now, I advise having one on hand, especially if you have multiple PCs to maintain. In my case, I have lotsa family and friends I help, and a PSU tester has come in handy over the years.

Follow the power is the best method of troubleshooting.

First check if the power supply works. You can do this by either getting a power supply tester or shorting out pins 14 and 15. If the power supply doesn't start, it's dead.

If after replacing the power supply, your computer still doesn't start, take out your motherboard and start looking for black stains on or near the surface and through-hole mounted components. Start at the power connectors on the motherboard (CPU and ATX) and work your way from there. You will need good lighting and good eyesight (or magnifying glass).

Any black stains means an exploded component and should be replaced.

The same will hold true for any other peripherals, especially video cards which take power directly from the power supply.

Good luck!

I found out when my pc started turning itself off. I had to unplug a few things power wise then pc turn itself on. By then, its considered "too late" and should of replaced it sooner, just didn't have the money.

SO you don't really want to wait that long if its starting to do the above but if it isn't, you can buy a power supply tester which if any lights aren't green on it, means PSU is dying. I would recommend this if you aren't super tech smart to mess with volts and/or don't want to waste money on a psu and find out its something else.

To be fair, most people don't know how to turn on a PSU without it being connected to the motherboard and case.

To OP, you need either a PSU tester (they're cheap) or you can ghetto-test it with a paperclip or anything else thin, bendable and conductive

Buy something like this https://www.amazon.ca/Insten-24-pin-Power-Supply-Tester/dp/B005CTCD6S

One I have used. Easy and cheap. Worked Everytime. It may save you time in case it might not be the PSU. It will rule it out at least.

https://www.amazon.com/Insten-24-pin-Power-Supply-Tester/dp/B005CTCD6S/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1549703504&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=psu+tester&dpPl=1&dpID=51oGO0bfPqL&ref=plSrch

Could be a faulty PSU or the connection of PSU to motherboard. Could also be dirty power coming through the wall. Either get a PSU tester (example: https://www.amazon.com/Insten-24-pin-Power-Supply-Tester/dp/B005CTCD6S ). Make sure you arn't getting power brownouts/sags from the power provided through your home. Are you plugged into a line conditioner or UPS?

First thing I would try is taking out one of the RAM sticks, see if it works. If it doesn't, swap the one that's in there with the one you took out (basically only leave 1 RAM stick in) and see if THAT works.

If it doesn't, you may wanna try a new power supply, or buy a power supply tester.

Also, if your motherboard has a built-in display, take out the Radeon card and plug the monitor directly in to the onboard display and see what happens.

If ALL of that fails, it's probably the motherboard.

Have you tried testing GPU in another computer? If you can I'd recommend that to see if it really did fry the GPU. If it did, definitely bad psu. Swap that bad boy out. Also swap the Cable as it could have been fried as well.

If GPU is working fine in another computer, then it's going to be a bigger headache. Probably need to replace Mobo. Though this is unlikely the culprit. I'd almost bet money on bad PSU.

If you can, get a PSU tester. They're like $10-$20 and are very good for this kind of thing. Allows you to make sure it's PSU before hooking up a replacement part and frying it too.

Edit: Here's a cheap PSU tester. $11. Might be worth it to get it and test PSU first. Unless Corsair is willing to swap it out anyway. If they aren't, get that and test it. If you tell them you tested it with a PSU tester and it tests bad, they will not balk any about swapping it out.

Insten 20/24-pin Power Supply Tester for ATX/SATA / HDD, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CTCD6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-maJBbJ4V5239

When something like this happens I usually turn to a trusty power supply tester to help clear the fog. They look like this and they're very cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/Insten-24-pin-Power-Supply-Tester/dp/B005CTCD6S

Do you have the make/model for that pc? or at least a link to the specs of it?

I'm banking on your PSU is dying/dead. You may be in the "dying" phase right now where your 550w is barely pushing enough amps and when it drops low enough, your PC shuts down.

I would also just double check all your PSU connectors, unplug, blow, then replug in and make sure they all snap in

edit here is an example of a PSU tester: link

Sometimes they can be useful to diagnose a PSU, however, if your PSU is having problems providing amps, if may report that everything is okay. Unfortunately there isn't a good way to "put a load" on the PSU besides simply running your PC.

There are relatively inexpensive PSU testers available, so that might be a start. Either that, or perhaps a local computer shop has the appropriate testing equipment on hand.

If your shop doesn't already have one, one of these (or one like it) will save you so much hassle. I do craigslist computer work, and didn't know that these things existed. I got one recently and it is so wonderful.

I guess for 8 bucks, this. Lots of choices on amazon actually, just search power supply tester.

Still though even for that cheap at that rated wattage, I would just like to put it out there I wouldn't trust a used PSU from a stranger even if I have an implement to test it.

A cheap multimeter should be available at your local hardware or auto parts store.

For example:

http://m.lowes.com/pd/Morris-Products-Digital-Multimeter-Meter/4738850

There are also purpose built power supply testers.

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B005CTCD6S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1457390512&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=atx+power+supply+tester&dpPl=1&dpID=51F4joHuY5L&ref=plSrch

I would use a digital multimeter.

There's also a PSU tester. I've never used one but I've seen it recommended here a few times.

Would [this](Corsair Hydro Series High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler H60 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0HZMGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Aw5Cyb1PC09P1) be a good cooler to allow me to over lock my 6300?

i just bought this, will it work? http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B00A0HZMGA?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01

make sure your fans on cpu case and gpu are clean and spinning
also make sure your voltages aren't neccesarily to high.

i am biased but you should seriously consider a corsair water cooler such as

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0HZMGA/ref=psdc_3015422011_t1_B019EXSSBG

or
Noctua NH-U9S Premium Quality Quiet CPU Cooler
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TBHYYFK/ref=psdc_11036281_t3_B002VKVZ1A

Got the same CPU, it's like a bloody jet engine the stock cooler. I got a closed loop cooler, they are a bit more pricey but I like the aesthetic look of them and they're effective :)


(I got This one)


There might be cheaper ones out there

How is the NZXT Kraken compared to the Corsair H100 v2? or even just the h60?

I would add water cooling since your budget would allow it, this one for example would only add 20$ to your budget

The H60 is cheaper on amazon: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00A0HZMGA/?tag=pcp0f-20

Memoryexpress has a pricematch policy, use the amazon link to get the price down.

A lot of mid-sized towers (and specially designed compact ATX towers) support both, so I guess a large portion of it is user preference. Take for example the following compact designed case designed to fit full ATX boards:

Amazon Link

I can't really attest to the quality of this case, but just as an example, as long as you find a tower with supporting ATX board sizes, it'll work (also good to consider the size of your CPU cooler, that's why they can't get too small - in the example of this case, your current fan wouldn't get the clearance it needs, but you could go with an alternative like...

Amazon Link)

Although that might be more than you want to spend, so just check the CPU cooler clearance required in the case you get, and it should be fine!

As for the CPU, if hyperthreading isn't a big deal to you, it's totally fine - that's one of the core differences between this one and say... the i7-6700k. If you want a higher clock speed out of the box too without having to OC, that's one thing to consider. But if those aren't that important to you, I'd say your choice is a sound one (many, many people will argue for the merit of hyperthreading these days though - and I can't say they're incorrect in their reasoning). However, if you're comparing dollar-to-dollar value, invest that extra savings into your GPU.

And finally, onto your GPU, pretty solid choice. Especially if you're not considering options like the 1070 or 1080. I lean more towards GTX cards, but that's entirely my biased choice, and so I won't influence you that way. There's a number of arguments that go both ways, so I'd say for sanity sake (you could literally dig for hours on the comparisons), that you'd be safe going either route (and if DX12 is the big factor for you, AMD seems to be doing better in some games, not as good in others, and around the same in even other games, so there seems to be a LOT of variability in regards to this factor - AMD seems to be excelling better on more recent games, but it's hard to say if that will remain the trend or if it will shift).

Again, hope this was helpful :)

That monitor is quite enough.

Here's my suggestion for your new build:

• CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K ($340)
  
• GPU: Nvidia GeForce GTX 770 ($450)
  
• mainboard: MSI Z87-G45 ($150)
  
• cooling: Corsair H60 ($60)
  
  That's $1000 total.

Our mutual friend asked me to help you out. Sorry its kinda long but hope it helps.

General Thoughts about building your own computer:
IMO buying computer hardware is all about future proofing. If your not a hardcore enthusiast you want to buy what you are not going to need to upgrade for a long long time. For example my friend JUST upgraded his gtx8800+ to the new 780. His 8800 lasted him like 10 years. However, doing this usually means purchasing the top of the line hardware at the time which ofc is not always possible to do this with your budget. IMO If you are going to spend the money, spend a little more so that you are super happy and wont have any regrets. This is why if your budget doesnt fit a lot of people upgrade piece by piece. usually the video card is the last bit to be upgraded because they are the largest cost white being the quickest to go out of date. For example the same friend who recently upgraded to a 780 upgraded his case, cpu, motherboard, and ram 2 years ago to a decent i52500k & held off upgrading the video card till now. Also it is worth mentioning that the reason he opted for the 780 over anything else is because not only is it (arguably) the best video card it has improvements over the last generation chips. for example the 770 is just a beefier 680. The 780 runs the gk110 chip and also has larger bandwith etcetc (these things have been discussed to death on countless forums and i am just stating my opinion on it). I think that the 780 provides better future proofing and value retention.

Build Recommendations:
Now that my own general mindset has been given here are some recommendations to your build.

1. Instead of the 670 get a 770 for only a little more $ (link below)
   
   
2. You will need a larger watt power supply! i also recommend future proofing yourself with this. I personally purchased a 1200 watt corsair 4 years ago and it has lasted me through 2 builds and will last me quite a few more. Computer Cases follow this principle as well - they will last you numerous builds so get one that can scale with you. But i would recommend at least a 700w power supply. I believe the 670 requires around a 600w anyways. and you always want to have more than less.
   
   
3. Please also do not get home premium get at least Pro. Also you can probably download a cracked version of ultimate for free and can save some money this way. (cough ask someone for a copy cough).
   
   
4. A common thing first time builders forget is also a cpu heatsink. Do not use the stock one that comes with your cpu. i would recommend the Corsair h60 an all in one easy watercooling solution which i myself use. Easily allows you to overclock without all the hard work and money for conventional watercooling - and not a whole lot more expensive than the better aircooling solutions that i would recommend you get (2nd link below. its newer version than the one i have)
   
   
5. Last and least important. I would recommend getting a larger SSD. It is a pain in the ass not having enough storage for typical daily use, but maybe thats just me because i set all my default download locations to the desktop and i often find myself running out of space on my 256gb ssd. You can double the capacity of the crucial m4 for only another $20. Remember that windows will be about 30gb. and your ssd will only really be 59 gb.
   
   Company Opinions
   I hate Newegg and have had nothing but crappy experiences with them. I only purchase from them if absolutely necessary and cross my fingers. I almost buy exclusively from Amazon now as i have amazon prime and amazons customer service is unparalleled. I also usually get bad cases of buyer remorse and amazons no quibbles 30 day return with no restocking fee is awesome. + free shipping with prime.
   
   As for choice of mouse and keyboard im a razer fan =P.
   
   Final Remark:
   This is probably going to have you go over budget. I would recommend doing a piece by piece upgrade as you get the funds instead of compromising. At the end of the day do what you personally will be happy with and that wont give you regrets. A good friend of mine thinks way different from me about choosing of hardware and that is why i want to give you background on my thinking. If you have any questions feel free =].
   
   http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-SuperClocked-Graphics-02G-P4-2774-KR/dp/B00CZIQXBA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373609361&sr=8-1&keywords=evga+770+acx
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B00A0HZMGA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1373610614&sr=1-1&keywords=corsair+h60

Corsair CW-9060007-WW Hydro Series High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler H60 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0HZMGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ALn9AbM6HBWWF

Why would anyone buy your cooler when they can get it on amazon for the exact same price?

> I can also testify that the 212 EVO is an absolute pain in the ass to install and am convinced that is why it's so cheap. probably spent 1/2 the build time just making sure I got it seated properly. Works like a charm though.

Next time give one of the simple Corsair liquid coolers a shot. Got one a few weeks ago and it was my first time installing an after-market CPU cooler and it wasn't too bad at all.

I highly recommend a closed loop CPU cooler like this one

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A0HZMGA?keywords=cpu%20cooler%20liquid&qid=1452812712&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3

It's a bit more expensive, but worth it.

Everything he said is spot on. I have 4 cheap Chinese printers and those are all the recommended upgrades regardless of the brand.

I recommend this power supply. It can provide 50% more power and has a cooling fan.

These mosfets have worked very well for me and lowered bed heating times significantly as well as make your printer a lot safer.

Personally I haven't had any issues with the bed connector, but maybe some epoxy or hot glue would keep the wires from moving around too much.

One of the best upgrades I did was to flash Marlin onto the board as the stock firmware is kind of crappy.
This also allows the use of a Inductive proximity sensor which makes leveling the bed significantly easier.

The bearings he recommended, the Drylin ones, will make the movements of your printer a little smoother and a lot quieter.

The belts stretch. The ones from China are rarely reinforced. I'm lazy so i just tighten them every so often. But it would be worthwhile to just start with the higher end reinforced belts.

That aside, once your printer is up and running and somewhat calibrated, head over to thingiverse and search for your printer. There are thousands of upgrades available.

Good luck!

Save some money and get a 30 amp PSU. I run up to 12 gridseed on each one. All you need is a power cord to cut up.

http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer-Project/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1397887222&sr=8-2&keywords=30+amp+led+power

Use this guide for the wiring instructions.

https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=494625.msg5448809#msg5448809

I've got (one of these)[http://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1464028524&sr=8-8&keywords=12v+power+supply] powering my VHF radio and it seems to work well. It's easier to connect things to and supplies plenty of power for most anything. I also have on that powers my MTW MiniMax.

You will need to sacrifice an old PC power cord to hook it up though, so if you don't have one lying around, order one.

eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/

This one will work great, has more than enough power for you.

The green CX series is pretty notorious for having quality issues and I don't think many people would recommend getting it when there are plenty of alternatives.

I'd recommend something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Continuous-Warranty-120-G1-0650-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW/?tag=logicaincrem-20

Best I can recommend is the EVGA 650 SuperNOVA G3 here. However, it is $100 right now which is a bit expensive for it. I only like fully modular power supplys and love the eco switch on the G3, however, if you want a lower cost go for the superNOVA NEX here. Good luck!

edit: Please note the NEX does not have a eco switch, which keeps the fan not running in low power idle situations. The G3 has it. I recommend 650 for future upgrades.

edit 2: That moment I notice you're Aussie

I wouldn't reccomend it. i've heard bad things about those cheap corsair PSUs, get a good EVGA one. https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-120-G1-0650-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1492250880&sr=1-3&keywords=EVGA+600W

https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4
This supplies 5V and 2.5A of power. Cheap too.

This is my favorite set up to give friends. Looks good and mostly foolproof hardware wise!

Raspberry Pi 3 Model B

Rasptendo SNES Case (IMO, connect the power button as intended, but either solder the reset button as per the method mentioned in there or don't connect it at all. This way there's no way for the user to do a non-safe shutdown of the OS)

Dual fan heatsink

Bluetooth adapter (more reliable than built-in bluetooth, change /boot/config.txt to disable onboard Bluetooth)

PS3 SIXAXIS Controller (Dualshock 3's work too, but I like the legit OEM ones, and those are hard to find. The convincing bootlegs/fakes are usually impossible to tell apart from legit ones when ordering online. That's why I look for used SIXAXIS controllers - no bootlegs. Also, I use PS3 controllers because pairing can be done or re-done entirely by connecting up mini-USB cables. No menus necessary once you set it up the first time!)

Sandisk 64GB MicroSD

Canakit PSU

HDMI cable, Mini-USB cable.


-----

For a more serious, less user-friendly but more overclockable setup, ditch the case/heatsink above and go with these instead:

Some kind of heatsink, I'm using one from the Kintaro case but I suspect the cheap stick-on heatsinks are probably fine too

this open-air case (throw out the fan as it's way too loud... I'm sure other open-air cases will work but I like that this one has the 40mm setup for the below fan and the little grille to prevent curious fingers from getting in there at least)

this Noctua 40mm 5v fan (expensive, but quiet and provides solid cooling)

$35 is just for the Pi 3 itself. You can find Pi cases pretty cheap, like $7-$10. From there it's the HDMI cable (which you probably already have laying around), MicroSD card, and power supply.

It's powered over USB to outlet wart plug. 2.5a is recommended, but you can probably get away with 2.0a or 2.1a, which is more common. Or buy a full standalone power plug for it. Assuming you don't have a microSD card, 32GB is only ~$10 these days, and you can get a 64GB one for about double that.

So total cost might be around $50-75 depending on accessories and what you already have at hand versus what you need to buy. Still quite cheap for a retro emulation rig (and can always be repurposed as something cool like a firewall or mini-PC or something, since there are Linux builds for the Pi as well).

Depending on the exact model of B, you want from 2-2.4A @ 5VDC to meet the 'official' spec. The RPi can run on less, but you're better off with a larger adapter than needed than the other way around. Adafruit, Canakit and the official RPi adapters are all good choices. They use thick conductors as well as an adequate power supply, so sufficient power makes it to the RPi.

No kit needed. Here's what you want:

Raspberry Pi

SD card

Power supply

Case

I've built around 75 of them, the above is what I've found works. Especially the power supply and SD card. I've had real mixed results with anything but the above.

Yea, this is what most people get, you just install an OS on a microSD and then pop it into the pi and ur good to go.

Skimping on a power supply can cause weird intermittent problems.

That being said, I like the Anker and the CanaKit power supply.

I have had great results with these two AC adapters, one switched and one not. Every other one I've tried was garbage. These two I have had no low voltage warnings in literally dozens of hours runtime.

• Gowoops 5V 2.5A Power Supply Adapter Charger and Micro USB Cable with On Off Switch and Heatsinks for Raspberry Pi 2 3 Model B
  
• CanaKit 5V 2.5A Raspberry Pi 3 Power Supply / Adapter / Charger (UL Listed)

CanaKit 5V 2.5A Raspberry Pi 3 B+ Power Supply / Adapter (UL Listed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lFX5Cb1FDKT41

This one.

I tried using an older Pi to host my pi-hole and compared it to a newer 3b+ and found no real difference in DNS lookups, but updates and the web interface were a lot slower and some things would run out of memory on the really old Pi. Ordered a second 3b+ and replaced the old Pi.

Power supply quality is critical, get a good one from Adafruit or Canakit.

A case is important to protect the Pi from damage, something simple is good enough, a dog-bone style works well and is a bit cooler if you have a safe place to mount the Pi, a more fully enclosed one is safer if the Pi is going to be banging around with a bunch of other stuff. Cooler really doesn't matter in a home install unless you are going to add something to your Pi that will cause it to run hot, fans, heatsinks and such really aren't needed.

SD cards are cheap, Samsung or Sandisk 32 GBs are excellent and you save pennies by going cheaper or smaller.

For Ethernet there is little difference in cables for the lengths you'll be using, and standard cable will work, get one a couple feet longer than the minimum and you'll have slack to work with.

So Pi, power supply, case, SD card and Ethernet cable will get you set up with a very nice Pi-hole.

You have some hungry sensors. If they are pulling off of the 5V rail on the Pi, then that pulls directly off of the usb power supply with no limiting factor other than the supply. If you are not planning on adding any more peripherals, then a 2.5 amp power supply will work. They are common and you can get them anywhere. Here is one from a reputable brand on Amazon. If you are considering adding more to the Pi, then maybe go with 3amp or more to be safe. Don't go with the 3.3V GPIO to power anything if you can get away with using the 5V. I have read that the 3.3V is limited to 50ma, although I have pulled more without side effects, I think it might cause damage in the long run.