Samsung 860 EVO 1 TB is $127 on Amazon now

Edit: Link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5xH-BbMMK4E5A

Just to BUILD an HTML site requires no hosting or domain! Once you have a built site that you want to display to the public though:

First, get a domain:

• I use Google Domains.
  
• Namecheap is also super great.
  
• If you use shared hosting (see below), they often offer included domain names with your purchase.
  
  Second, find hosting:
  
  
• Github Pages offers great static site hosting. Free.
  
• Shared hosting like DreamHost is great if you aren't comfortable managing your own server but want access to databases (they also give you email addresses with webmail access). Costs a monthly fee.
  
• Use a combination of PaaS like Heroku and Firebase. Free (can pay for more features/performance).
  
• Your own VPS (virtual private server) like Digital Ocean lets you configure just about everything if you're okay with system administration. Costs a monthly fee.
  
• Buy a Raspberry Pi and hook it up to your router (assuming your ISP gives you a public IP address). This is essentially setting up your own server. One time cost.
  
  Third, figure out how you want to make the site:
  
  
• Use a CMS like WordPress, BoltCMS, Grav, DjangoCMS, etc...
  
• Use a static site generator like Hugo or Hexo.
  
• Write everything yourself (too many options out there to link, depends on your language/technology preference). This is the route you're going.
  
  Other stuff:
  
  
• You can get free SSL certs for your site (especially important if people are going to be entering information) from Let's Encrypt.
  
• CloudFlare acts as a CDN and IPS/IDS to help protect and optimize your site (they have a free plan).
  
• A good option for students is to grab the Github Student Developer Pack, which includes a bunch of free goodies.
  
  EDIT:
  
  A few more things you can play with:
  
  
• C9 is cool for prototyping and playing around in a VPS playground with a nice built-in editor. It has a free plan, but last I checked it still requires a payment card for verification.
  
• HyperDev is another cool Node-specific playground.
  
• Forestry.io is a new service that gives you CMS-like functionality with Github Pages. I have not used it.
  
• Prose is an editor application for managing Github content.

Nintendo's "strategy" led me to successfully build a RetroPie using a RaspberryPi starter kit. Now I have a NES mini and an SNES mini all in one with just about every title ever released for both systems. And I can play Quake on it.

>5% off an SSD

It's not exactly Black Weekend, but I got 35% of an 1TB Evo 860 last week and the sale is still going (it's on BestBuy and Amazon, Amazon is a few bucks cheaper somehow) - that's roughly $130.

They have this on amazon for 150 as well, with prime.

https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B07B41WS48/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1539728664&sr=1-1&keywords=ryzen+2600

If it helps make you more uncomfortable, you can get a 200GB card of the same size for $100 on Amazon right now.

Some of the kits on Amazon are great, specifically the ones by CanaKit. They usually come with everything needed to get started (Pi, power adapter, sdcard, case, etc.) Some kits have more items than others.

As for which Pi, there are only really two options: the Pi 3 or the Pi Zero W. The other models are older and slower or lacking wifi/Bluetooth/etc. The Pi3 is more powerful and requires less adapters to make it plug into your TV, use USB devices, etc. The Pi Zero W requires some adapters and isn't as powerful but it is cheaper and a lot smaller so it is great for projects where you want it as small as possible. Both are great.

Overall, I'd recommend a Pi 3. More powerful, less messing with adapters, and still pretty small. This kit covers all the bases: CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 Complete Starter Kit - 32 GB Edition: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/

Pi 3, case, power, SD card, HDMI cable, SD reader, and heatsinks.

Edit: Here is a similar kit for the Pi Zero W if you want to go the smaller/cheaper route: CanaKit Raspberry Pi Zero W (Wireless) Starter Kit with Official Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XJQV162/

The SD card isn't as large and you don't get a card reader but you do get the needed HDMI and USB adapters.

Hope it helps!

Currently in a house with 5 gamers total

I live in house with 3 other guys and a buddy of ours has been crashing on our couch for the past month (long story, but he's cool and contributes to cooking, cleaning, and utilities) We all play League of Legends, a handful of us play BF3, a few others play Tera, and then various other games such as CS:GO and TF2, and other console games like Super Smash Bros. and Mario Kart.

We have been here for about 1.5 months, below are some issues that we encountered:

• Bandwidth: we have a 105Mbps down/ 20Mbps up pipe provided by Comcast. The Router that comcast provided sucked, constant latency spikes, no QOS, terrible admin console. I ended up going out and buying my own modem and Router. I got the Motorola SB6121 and an Asus-RT-N66U Router (I could have paid an additional $30 and got an AC router, but honetly, none of us use the wireless for our computers, and any wireless device we do use which include phones, tablets, laptops, Apple TV, Ouya, PS3 etc, do not support 802.11AC and even if they did, none of them even saturate 802.11N) This completely solved our issues with lag spikes, and by far was the most frustrating issue we dealt with thus far.
  
  
• Electricity: I don't know where you guys are living, but being in Texas the A/C was on constantly, so be prepared for a large electric bill. Our last bill was ~$270, but that is pretty much as high as it will go.
  
  
• NAS: Currently I have 3 1TB drives in my computer and I am using Windows to share the content, we are currently using XBMC to play media across our computers as well as the Ouya and the Apple TV which are both hooked up to TVs. (1 in the living room, the other in the breakfast room/nook) I want to eventually build/buy a NAS, but I have been way too busy at work and I've been spending too much money on going and eating out.. so that needs to change.
  
  
• Last bit of advice I'd have to give, is make everyone do chores or something, it gets dirty very fast at our place with 5 guys living there, 2 dogs, 1 cat(although she is mostly outside), plus friends, girlfriends, and parties also all happening at our place.
  

The 2600 dropped down to 144.99

Warning, big ass list of stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-RM1000x-Modular-Certified-warranty/dp/B015YEI7LK for $130

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-RM750i-Modular-Certified-warranty/dp/B00YPNSQTU for $100

https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Gaming-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST4000DX001/dp/B00FQH7MQ2 for $117

https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-Single-PC3L-12800-SODIMM-204-Pin/dp/B006YG8X9Y $20.79

https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-SODIMM-Memory-System-CT2K8G3S160BM/dp/B008LTBJFW $42.79

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Obsidian-750D-Performance-Tower/dp/B00EB6O4N8 $99.99

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Trackball-Computer-Mouse/dp/B0043T7FXE $20

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE $34

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Gaming-SCIMITAR-Mechanical-Buttons/dp/B019OQJ9XE $60

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Performance-Mouse-Mac/dp/B002HWRJBM $45

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Surround-Theater-External-Speakers/dp/B004M18O60/ $250

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Hyperion-Gaming-Fusion-910-004069/dp/B00LZVNWIA $30

https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset-PS4/dp/B00Y09G6H8 $75

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Surround-Hybrid-Headset-Adapter/dp/B01B1H33WW $60

https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PC-350-Special-2015/dp/B015ZKJIYI $90

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Touchpad-Internet-Connected/dp/B014EUQOGK $18

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U28E590D-28-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor/dp/B00YD3DBOC $300

https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-Portable-External-GP65NB60/dp/B00ODDE33U $20

https://www.amazon.com/Ballistix-PC3-12800-240-Pin-Memory-BLS4KIT8G3D1609DS1S00/dp/B007HAXMGA $96

https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-16GBx2-PC4-17000-SODIMM-260-Pin/dp/B015YPB8ME $96

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Dominator-Platinum-3200MHz-PC4-25600/dp/B018GK2G9S $96

https://www.amazon.com/Ballistix-Sport-8GBx2-PC4-19200-288-Pin/dp/B01AG9EZ3M $55 (must-have for a white-themed build)

https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-DOMINATOR-Platinum-3000MHz-Systems/dp/B016BWENUI/ $194

https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-JetFlash-Flash-Drive-TS32GJF790K/dp/B00JKATVUQ $7.50 (32GB)

https://www.amazon.com/PNY-Elite-32GB-Flash-Drive/dp/B01E17L6AK/ $8.50

https://www.amazon.com/PNY-Turbo-Elite-Flash-Drive/dp/B01DWN1CMG/ $12 (64GB)

https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-MicroSDHC-Memory-Adapter-TS32GUSDU1PE/dp/B015J44R0U $7 (32GB)

https://www.amazon.com/PNY-MicroSDXC-Adapter--UHS-I-P-SDU64U185EL-GE/dp/B01G26R7M4 $14 (64GB)

https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-MicroSDXC-Memory-Adapter-TS64GUSDU1PE/dp/B016B6AMFY $14 (64GB)

If you want your stuff to last a long time and be more reliable, get dedicated devices rather than combined ones. A "wireless router" is actually three devices combined into one: router, switch, and access point. The router separates your network from the internet, moves data between them, allows multiple devices to share your single public IP address, blocks unwanted internet traffic from reaching your network, and assigns local IP addresses to devices on your network. The access point does Wi-Fi. The switch connects these together and gives you the multiple LAN Ethernet ports on the back.

These three devices are also available separately. For example, this is a router, this is a switch, and this is an access point. You'd connect the router's WAN port to the modem and the LAN port to the switch, then connect access points and other wired devices to the switch. This has several advantages:

• The devices are much more reliable as each only does one job, rather than having to juggle three different ones.
  
• It's easily expandable. If you need more Ethernet ports somewhere, just add another switch there and connect it to an existing switch. If you need more Wi-Fi coverage somewhere, add another access point there and connect it to an existing switch.
  
• Upgrading is less wasteful. If, for example, a new Wi-Fi standard comes out, just get new access points that support it. You can keep your existing router and switch(es). Likewise, if you upgrade your connection speed to something your router can't handle, just upgrade it and keep your switch(es) and access point(s). And if something breaks, you can just replace it and keep everything else.
  
• You can optimize the locations of devices. Your router and switch(es) can be put well out of the way, behind other stuff, where their cables will be out of sight. Your access point(s) can be ceiling mounted to provide the best Wi-Fi coverage, with only one Ethernet cable running to them. This cable also powers the AP using Power over Ethernet.

Not likely related to the update since you can't format it on PC either. FWIW, pny and kingston are the only two brands of flash memory I've ever had fail on me.

Stick with Sandisk or Samsung.

Nope. Because I'm bored:

Thing | Cost | Link
---|---|----
27" 5K Monitor (though IMO the difference between 4K and 5K is marginal and not worth the extra grand) | $1489 | https://www.amazon.com/LG-27MD5KB-B-UltraFine-Brightness-Thunderbolt-x/dp/B0778Z8G5K
1TB SSD | $162.99 | https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Inch-Internal-MZ-76E1T0B-AM/dp/B078DPCY3T
Intel Xeon W (note: faster than Mac's) | $1189 | https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6ZP7AC0245
Motherboard | $293 | https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132991
32GB RAM | $245 | https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16820231967
PSU | $104 | https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2F86WV9693
Vega 56 | $410 | https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814930006
Pretty Case | $189 | https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133359

Total Cost: $4,082

Edit: forgot Vega 56

I'm putting this here because I don't want to flood the main sub with what I'm able to find. So here goes:

Headphones| Price
:--|:--
[ATH-M50x Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR86/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757226&sr=1-1&keywords=headphones) |$150 in cart. $250-$300 everywhere else I check
[Sennhieser HD 598 SR Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Sennheiser-HD-598-SR-Open-Back/dp/B06WRMZZ45/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757356&sr=1-1&keywords=hd+598) |$109 Record low
[Audio-Technica ATH-M40x Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499758834&sr=1-6&keywords=bose) |$180 - $38 = $141
[August EP650-Bluetooth headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/August-EP650-Bluetooth-Wireless-Headphones-Leather/dp/B00F54Y6GU/ref=sr_1_2?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499759484&sr=1-2&keywords=headphones)| Was $99, now $58
[August EP640 Bluetooth Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/August-EP640-Rechargeable-built-Smartphones/dp/B00MHOFR78/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499772544) |was $80, now $37
[Prime Day Bluedio T2S Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Bluedio-Shooting-Bluetooth-headphones-wireless/dp/B00Q2VIW9M/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499759635&sr=1-4&keywords=bluetooth) | Was $20, $21 in cart no tax
Prime Day Bluedio V Headphones | was $200, $140 in cart no tax
[AUSDOM ANC 7 Bluetooth noise cancelling] (https://www.amazon.ca/Cancelling-Headphones-AUSDOM-Bluetooth-Comfortable/dp/B01LZ7Q5R1/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499808109&sr=1-4&keywords=aptx) | was $100, now $50. Well reviewed!
[Sony Extra bass bluetooth headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Sony-MDRXB950B1-Extra-Headphone-Model/dp/B01N5UVZBP) | was $200, now $99


Earbuds| Price
:--|:--
[Aukey Arcs Bluetooth Sport] (https://www.amazon.ca/AUKEY-Bluetooth-Headphones-Microphone-Sweatproof/dp/B01EWUP4NQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499804815&sr=1-4&keywords=headphones)| was $24, now $14
[1MORE Triple Driver earbuds] (https://www.amazon.ca/1MORE-Headphones-Earphones-Compatible-Microphone/dp/B01KB9K9Z0/ref=lp_17037466011_1_4?srs=17037466011&ie=UTF8&qid=1499766067&sr=8-4&th=1) | Was $131, $106 in cart

Bluetooth misc| Price
:--|:--
[Anker Premium Stereo Bluetooth 4.0 Speaker ] (https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-Bluetooth-Subwoofers-Portable-Wireless/dp/B0107WH8Q4/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499800448&sr=1-6&keywords=subwoofer) | was $130, now $60
[Trond bluetooth receiver] (https://www.amazon.ca/TROND-Bluetooth-Receiver-Headphones-Speakers/dp/B01M9I0LSK/) | Was $25, now $20. I have one its awesome
[Altman Bluetooth Transmitter/receiver] (https://www.amazon.ca/ALTMAN-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Wireless/dp/B06Y25PGBG/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499803431&sr=1-1&keywords=aptx) |was $43, now $26



CPU Coolers| Price
:--|:--
[CORSAIR Hydro Series H100i v2 Extreme ] (https://www.amazon.ca/CORSAIR-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-CW-9060025-WW/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757440&sr=1-1&keywords=corsair) |$110. Historic [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/CrDzK8/corsair-cpu-cooler-cw9060025ww)
[Corsair Hydro Series H115i Extreme Performance] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-CW-9060027-WW/dp/B019955RNQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499756838&sr=1-3&keywords=corsair) |$155 (temporarily out of stock)
[MasterLiquid Pro 240 All-In-One] (https://www.amazon.ca/MasterLiquid-Technology-Chamber-MasterFan-Radiator/dp/B01E5XNP5Y/ref=lp_16927652011_1_24?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499766384&sr=1-24) | was $140, now $95 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sqmxFT/cooler-master-cpu-cooler-mlyd24ma20mbr1)

PSU| Price
:--|:--
[Corsair CS650M] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Modular-Efficient-Supply-CS650M/dp/B00GH9NA2I/ref=sr_1_11?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757999&sr=1-11&keywords=corsair) |$110. Not the lowest but okay
[EVGA SuperNOVA 550 G3] (https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0550-Y1/dp/B01LWTS2UL/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499759891&sr=1-1&keywords=evga)| Was $130, now $99 [historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sMM323/evga-supernova-g3-550w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-220-g3-0550)

Cases| Price
:--|:--
[Corsair 780T full atx case] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Graphite-780T-Full-Tower/dp/B00LA6POK4) | $189 in cart. Not an [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sNJwrH/corsair-case-cc9011063ww) but not bad
[Corsair Carbide 400C white] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-CC-9011095-WW-Carbide-Compact-Mid-Tower/dp/B01F97W9ZM/ref=sr_1_12?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499813131&sr=1-12&keywords=corsair) |$105 in cart

HDD| Price
:--|:--
[Seagate Backup Plus Hub 8TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-External-Desktop-Storage-STEL8000100/dp/B01HD6ZLQ6/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499758359&sr=1-3&keywords=hdd) | $270 - 51 = $219
[Seagate 4TB BarraCuda Pro ] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST4000DM006/dp/B01MSW4MNS/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499758359&sr=1-4&keywords=hdd)|$245-75 = $170 [Historic low!] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/qRtWGX/seagate-barracuda-pro-4tb-35-7200rpm-internal-hard-drive-st4000dm006)
[Seagate Backup Plus 4TB Portable] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0196J43TE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1) | Was $160, now $135 [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/NyQRsY/seagate-backup-plus-4tb-external-hard-drive-stdr4000100)
[Seagate Firecuda 2TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M1NHCZT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)| was $126, now $85 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/zk7CmG/seagate-firecuda-2tb-25-5400rpm-internal-hard-drive-st2000lx001)
[Seagate Firecuda 1TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-Firecuda-2-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000LX015/dp/B01LWRTRZU/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499767750&sr=1-1&keywords=ssd) | was $83, now $60 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/w6x9TW/seagate-firecuda-1tb-25-5400rpm-hybrid-internal-hard-drive-st1000lx015)

Input Devices| Price
:--|:--
[Logitech G13 input pad] (https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE/ref=sr_1_21?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499761901&sr=1-21&keywords=board+games) | Was $75, now $55 [Historic Low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/jbvZxr/logitech-keyboard-920000946)
[Corsair Gaming K70 LUX RGB MX Brown] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlit/dp/B01ER4B7YM/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499770080&) | was $180, now $160 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/34M323/corsair-k70-lux-rgb-wired-gaming-keyboard-ch-9101012-na)


Networking| Price
:--|:--
[NETGEAR Nighthawk X8 AC5300 Router] (https://www.amazon.ca/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Tri-Band-Quad-Stream-R8500-100CNS/dp/B01A85Y9TE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499760240&sr=8-1&keywords=NETGEAR+Nighthawk+X8+AC5300)| was $499, now $290
[TP-Link AC3200 Tri band router] (https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Tri-Band-Beamforming-Archer-C3200/dp/B00YY3XSSA/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499760450&sr=1-3&keywords=modem) | Was $249, now $175
[Netgear 16-Port Gigabit Switch] (https://www.amazon.ca/Netgear-16-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B01AX8XHRQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499760948&sr=1-6&keywords=ethernet) | Was $106, now $75 in cart

MISC| Price
:--|:--
[Logitech C922x Webcam] (https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-Stream-Webcam-Streaming-960-001176/dp/B01LXCDPPK/ref=sr_1_5?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499760799&sr=1-5&keywords=computer) | was $130, now $89. All time low
[Acer KG251Q 1080p Freesync monitor] (https://www.amazon.ca/Acer-KG251Q-bmiix-FREESYNC-Technology/dp/B06X6HJ1SF/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499762804&sr=1-6&keywords=monitor) | Was $230, now $170
[M9S PRO android tv box] (https://www.amazon.ca/Leelbox-M9S-Pro-Android-6-0/dp/B01MD0NZPK/ref=sr_1_2?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499767387) | Was $130, $98 in cart
[Cyberpower 600w UPS] (https://www.amazon.ca/CyberPower-CP1000PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N192/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499803529&sr=1-1&keywords=ups) | was $224, now $125


I'll try to keep tabs on everything but let me know if there are any errors or price updates. And as a side note, I'm actually getting downvotes for this? I can't see how there could possibly be a sane explanation for that.

 

EDIT: Updated 7:00pm EST!! Let me know if there's anything you see and I'll put it in here!

 

EDIT: I've put everything new as of Jan 11, 4:00pm in bold. Also, check this post on RedFlagDeals for a great big list of deal

 

EDIT: Its all over everyhone. Hope you snagged something cool beyond bitter disappointment this year!**


 

Not a huge deal 128gb for $20

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=psdc_3015433011_t1_B06XWZWYVP

edit:added link

Don't use WiFi ever. Random packet loss will happen from simple interference. Its possible the two PS4s are interfering with each other.

Just use an ethernet cable to plug the PS4 into the router. If its not possible to run a cable then buy Powerline Adapters. I honestly don't know why these are not more popular. I had to use them for years until I finally had cables run throughout the house but they pretty much saved my life as I refuse to play any sort of online game with WiFi.

A Logitech G13 or Razer Tartaurus might meet your needs. Or if you're cheap a USB numpad and using something like sharpkeys or autohotkey to rebind your numpad would probably work.

Full offer rules here. As OP mentioned, it can't be applied to video games.

I just used it to bring the SanDisk Ultra 200GB microSD down to $61.32, effectively giving you 72GB more for $21 over the usual $40/128GB options.

i will forever recommend a powerline adapter over a pcie wireless card or usb wireless adapter

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA2010KIT/dp/B00AWRUIY4?ie=UTF8&portal-device-attributes=desktop&qid=1497057976&ref_=sr_1_1&refinements=p_n_intended_use_browse-bin%3A9647497011%2Cp_89%3ATP-Link&s=pc&sr=1-1&th=1

I remember someone announcing it, but I couldn't find a consumer version for sale. Do you know who it was or have a link? I did find 200GB MicroSD cards, those are readily available via Amazon.

thats a pretty badass bday present!

i have a genuine question tho, and not necessarily aimed at OP. Why do i see so many builds using the ryzen APU with a graphics card as well? is there a benefit to it? i understand builds that start with it and add a gpu later, but if you're buying it all at once would it not be better to grab a 2600 instead? (or a 1600 if its the R3 apu)

questions aside. congrats! im sure he'll remember building it fondly for the rest of his life.

​

edit: fair points all around! so if its the 2200 it makes perfect sense for best performance at price point. however if its a 2400 then you might as well have gotten a 2600 especially with them being 149 at walmart and amazon right now = https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B41WS48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yW0yCbK60C89B

You can already buy them stupid cheap. I have two SanDisk 256GB cards I got for $33 each. One is in my Switch. The other is in a drawer until I figure out what to use it for. Maybe my PSP.

Amazon had the 400GB card on sale the other day for $46

The 512GB card was on sale yesterday for $57.

Anything small, 8GB, 16GB, 32GB, 64GB can be had for like $16 or less.

128GB for like $25

—

400GB - $57

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074RNRM2B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9we3Cb75R3QBB

256GB - $38

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0758NHWS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nwe3CbRK04R5Q

200GB - $33

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JY5T7T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.ye3CbS3CT6AH

128GB - $20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Mxe3CbAWACBJR

64GB - $12

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JYVKNX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9ze3CbBCX3549

32GB - $7

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JWXGNT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AAe3CbBV81WFY

16GB - $6

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073K14CVB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1Ae3CbG0JXK3K

Not sure how much cheaper you expect them to get.

Klipsch ProMedia 2.1's can be had for around $150 and they're just delightful

edit: link http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-ProMedia-Certified-Computer-Speaker/dp/B000062VUO

and i've owned these on two seperate occasions and loved em both times

In this scene, this is supposed to be a wireless ID scanner. Though obviously someone just wanted something that "looked techy" and could display a custom message.

I'm very sorry for the picture of a TV (or can it be considered meta?)

Get your own here:
Logitech G13 Programmable Gameboard with LCD Display https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NEK2GE

BenQ ZOWIE XL2411P 24 inch 144Hz eSports Gaming Monitor, 1080p, 1ms Response Time, Black eQualizer, Color Vibrance, Height Adjustable, Display Port, HDMI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H5KKQTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mInbBb7Q80941

CPU:https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B07B41WS48/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=ryzen+5&qid=1574377106&sr=8-1

GPU: https://www.newegg.com/xfx-radeon-rx-570-rx-570p427d6/p/N82E16814150795?Item=N82E16814150795&Tpk=14-150-795&cm_sp=2019-_-BlackFriday-_-Eflyer-_-14-150-795

RAM: https://www.newegg.com/team-16gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820331360?Item=20-331-360&Tpk=20-331-360&cm_sp=2019-_-BlackFriday-_-Eflyer-_-20-331-360

SSD: https://www.newegg.com/hp-ex900-500gb/p/N82E16820326251?Item=20-326-251&Tpk=20-326-251&cm_sp=2019-_-BlackFriday-_-Eflyer-_-20-326-251

MOBO: https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16813157868?Item=13-157-868&Tpk=13-157-868&cm_sp=2019-_-BlackFriday-_-Eflyer-_-13-157-868

PSU: https://www.newegg.com/corsair-cx-series-cx650-650w/p/N82E16817139200?Item=17-139-200&Tpk=17-139-200&cm_sp=2019-_-BlackFriday-_-Eflyer-_-17-139-200

CASE: https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-MasterBox-Customize-Transparent/dp/B071GYMHKL/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=matx+case&qid=1574377312&sr=8-8

This builds totals up to approximately $475 before taxes and rebates. This will handle a moderate amount of AutoCAD, coding, virtualization, and rendering. The system runs on a six-core processor with SMT. The build also comes with an appropriate mid-tier GPU. It meets the 4GB VRAM requirement for the AutoCAD application as well as DX11 and DX12 support. Also, a 500GB HP NVMe SSD was also included for quick boot, load, save, and transfer times while only costing $45. The motherboard is also a great B450 motherboard, with space for possible overclocking or boosting. 16GB of RAM clocked at 3000MHz is also included for a better AutoCAD experience. The CX650W is a reputable power supply from Corsair. It is not modular, but its quality is above average for this price point. Finally, to seal everything off, the Masterbox Lite 3.1 was chosen for the case. This case has decent aesthetics and efficient airflow for a sub-$50 mATX case. Do note that this takes advantage of the Newegg Black Friday sales, so prices may change. If you need a new build list close to the date of purchase, one can be provided.

Laptop Option: https://www.newegg.com/black-msi-gl-series-gl65-9sc-004-gaming-entertainment/p/N82E16834155299?Item=34-155-299&Tpk=34-155-299&cm_sp=2019-_-BlackFriday-_-Eflyer-_-34-155-299

This is $100 over budget per unit, however, it gives the systems more portability. The MSI Laptop will not have the same degree of performance as the tower systems, but will still meet or exceed requirements for AutoCAD and other cyber and design related tasks.

This HP Prebuilt is the best I can come up with near $500/unit.

https://www.amazon.com/HP-Pavilion-Desktop-5-580-1TB/dp/B07JJ1ZFKH/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=hp+pavilion+desktop+rx&qid=1574378943&s=electronics&sr=1-6

This is similar to the DIY build, just 8GB instead of 16GB of RAM. (You can easily find an extra 8GB stick for like $30.)

Hope everything goes well.

Remember 200 GB cards are only $70

You can get a comparable SanDisk for $42 without a one to two month wait.

https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Ultra-128GB-Micro-Adapter/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

It's not really that big of a steal. Normal price is 49.99$ for the NEWER model...and it's on sale for 40-45$ on Amazon.

I recommend the Canakit.

https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY

For $70 everything is included. I put an RPie together last Christmas and instead of relying on the wife and family to find the parts as gifts, I just sent them to that link. Super easy, and it's been running non-stop all day since then.

For $3 more you can get twice as much storage

​

Or $6 less for the same amount of storage

SanDisk Ultra microSDXC UHS-I cards

• 64gb - $14.99
  
  
• 128gb - $29.99
  
  
• 200gb - $49.99 (choose Amazon as the seller. Out of stock, but you can still order, and it will ship when restocked).

Did you not actually go to the site? It lists specifically what the money goes to, and says the total is around the same price you mentioned. There's no monitors, but there's about another $100 in shipping / taxes / handling.

The final ≈$100 is listed as "Suggested donation to help DonorsChoose.org reach more classrooms." If you hover over the "?", it lets you know this is optional.

>Most kits are $50-$70 x 5 is still only $350.

From the site:

>CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 Complete Starter Kit - 32 GB Edition: $74.99 x 5 = $374.95

They also have 5 "learner labs":

>OSOYOO Raspberry Pi 3 DIY Starter learning Lab Kit (22 in 1) For Beginners: $29.99 x 5 = $149.95

That brings the total to $524.90, lower than your estimate. They then add about $90 of other fees on. The rest is a suggested donation.

>Also the prices for the CanaKits and OSOYOO DIY Kits don't match up either.

Yes, they do:
https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY
https://www.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Raspberry-Starter-learning-Beginners/dp/B01ICNY0FW

>The goal is rather specific to not offer specifics that they want.

How much more specific can they get? They even separated each type of fee.

You can get a 200GB for 66$ https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-SDSDQUAN-200G-G4A/dp/B00V62XBQQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484492789&sr=8-3&keywords=micro+sdxc

I reckon the 200GB SanDisk Ultra is more dense.

Rather than click the link and give them affiliate money (thanks for the spam!) just go to this link, affiliate spam free:

http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-SDSDQUAN-200G-G4A/dp/B00V62XBQQ/

If it doesn't have to be surround, the Klipsch ProMedia system is hard to beat for the price.


Personally, I'd rather have a half-decent stereo setup than a shitty surround one.

This ain't it chief...

Was <$100 a few days ago HERE...$100 or less for 1TB or no deal -- at this price, might as well go for the Evo 860 or MX500 🤔

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q57S62/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apis_1485026011231

I got this and a Type-C cable to use with my portable battery.

Yes, it matches the lowest price this card has ever been on Amazon.

If you're interested the 1TB is only the cost of 2 of these + $7 on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=psdc_1292116011_t1_B07D998212?th=1

I've started to get into electronics myself, and I can say that soldering is easy, but you need the right tools for the job.
You'll need an adjustable temperature soldering iron and 1/2 milimeter iron/lead solder as the bare minimum.

I suggest grabbing some tip tinner, solder wick & vacuum, and some cheap boards to practice soldering.

This video shows how to do the actual soldering, while this video covers the tools you'll need and explains their use. These videos are made by EEV Blog and explain soldering in GREAT detail, which is how I learned to do it.



As far as making actual circuits, you have to have an idea AND parts to fulfill your idea. The Arduino UNO is a great way to program and test circuits. It's essentially a small comptuer designed to repeat whatver task you give it over and over. Alternatively, there's the Raspberry Pi, which comes in a few different models. The difference between the Pi and the Arduino is that the Pi is essentially a mini computer. You can literally hook it up to a monitor via hdmi and slam an operating system into it.

Both boards typically come in kits like this one for the Ardunio, or this one for the Raspberry Pi. The Ardunio kits with come with a lot of peripherals, like sensors and LEDs that actually do things, while you'll have to invest more with a Raspberry Pi. These kits come with detailed instructions, code you can copy and paste, and are a great way to learn how circuitry works, and is exactly what I'm doing right now. I'm no expert by any stretch of the imagination, I've just done a decent amount of research to find out what's what.

There are two ways to hook up circuits - temporarily and (somewhat) permanently. Breadboards are used to prototype circuits without having to solder anything, typically using these wires to link different parts of the circuits together. Soldering components to those green boards I linked earlier is what you'd do when you have your circuit up and running and want to move it to something more permanent. I say "more" permanent because you can usually de-solder stuff if you needed a component for something.

Adafruit has a decently sized library of projects you can try. They often sell stuff in kits where you get everything you need to make something -- for example, this DIY MIDI controller.

Sparkfun has a great series of articles that explain the very basics of circuits and electricity

Hopefully I've explained everything enough so that you can venture off on your own. Feel free to ask questions!

It would be much better to get a powerline adapter. It essentially allows you to use your power outlets as really long ethernet cables.

Here are some examples from Amazon: 1 2 3

I personally use the D-link ones, the speeds are much faster than Wireless.

I'm updating as I go. Give me a second guys. Difference in savings is based on camelcamelcamel.com average on an item & sorry the links are all Smile links since I have Smile Always enabled.

Edit: Just caught a CP 870 Snorlax.

RAM | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Corsair Dominator Platinum Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3200MHz | $95.99 | Link | $41.01 | n/a
CORSAIR DOMINATOR Platinum Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz | $193.99 | Link | $85 | n/a
Crucial 32GB Kit (16GBx2) DDR4 2133 MT/s (PC4-17000) SODIMM 260-Pin Memory | $95.99 | Link | $40.69 | n/a
Ballistix Sport 32GB Kit (8GBx4) DDR3 1600 MT/s (PC3-12800) CL9 @1.5V UDIMM 240-Pin Memory | $95.87 | Link | $44.14 | n/a
Crucial 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR3L 1600 SODIMM Memory for Mac System | $42.79 | Link | $16.54 | n/a
Crucial 8GB Single DDR3L 1600 MT/s (PC3L-12800) SODIMM 204-Pin Memory | $20.79 | Link | $9.70 | n/a



Monitors | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Samsung U28E590D 28-Inch UHD LED-Lit Monitor | $441.85 | Link | $4.84 | n/a

PSU | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Corsair RMx Series, RM1000x, 1000W, Fully Modular Power Supply, 80+ Gold Certified, 10 year warranty | $129.99 | Link | $35.57 | n/a
Corsair RMi Series, RM750i, 750 Watt (750W), Fully Modular Power Supply, 80+ Gold Certified, 10 year warranty | $99.99 | Link | $20.23 | n/a

HDD | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Seagate 4TB Gaming SSHD(Solid State Hybrid Drive) SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive | $116.99 | Link | $26.84 | n/a

Headsets | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
HyperX Cloud II Gaming Headset | $85.10 | Link | $7 | n/a
Sennheiser PC 350 Special Edition 2015 | $89.99 | Link | $65.53 | n/a
Corsair VOID Surround Hybrid Stereo Gaming Headset with Dolby 7.1 | $59.99 | Link | $14.12 | n/a

Case | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Corsair Obsidian Series 750D Performance Full Tower Case | $99.99 | Link | $46.79 | n/a

Keyboards | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Logitech G13 Programmable Gameboard with LCD Display | $38.99 | Link | $20.56 | n/a
Logitech Wireless Touch Keyboard K400 Plus | $31.73 | Link | -$1.84 (lol) | I already own this. AMA?

Mice | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Logitech M570 Wireless Trackball | $19.99 | Link | $10.69 | n/a
Logitech Wireless Performance Mouse MX | $66.02 | Link | -$4.62 | n/a
Corsair Gaming SCIMITAR RGB MOBA/MMO Gaming Mouse | $59.99 | Link | $14 | n/a
Logitech G402 Hyperion Fury FPS Gaming Mouse | $43.00 | Link | $3.04 | n/a

Flash Memory | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Transcend 32GB JetFlash 790 USB 3.0 Flash Drive | $7.49 | Link | $4.40 | n/a
PNY Elite X 32GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive | $8.49 | Link | ~$5 | n/a
PNY Turbo Elite 64GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive | $11.99 | Link | $3 | n/a
Transcend 32GB MicroSDHC Class 10 UHS-1 Memory Card with Adapter | $6.99 | Link | $13.61 | n/a
PNY Elite 64GB MicroSDXC Card with Adapter | $13.99 | Link | $3 | n/a
Transcend 64GB MicroSDXC Class 10 UHS-1 Memory Card with Adapter | $13.99 | Link | $16.63 | n/a
Temp (Title) | Temp (Price) | Temp (link) | Temp (Savings) | n/a

Nice Build. His budget was around 1100, so he might be happier if he stepped up the monitor a level or two. Maybe go for a 24inch 144hz monitor if he primarily plays first person shooters. This would be a good example:

https://www.amazon.com/VG248QE-1920x1080-144Hz-Gaming-Monitor/dp/B00B2HH7G0/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1478271530&sr=1-3&keywords=144hz+monitor

Or, if OP isn't into playing FPS games then he could get a decent 2560x1440 monitor instead such as this:

https://www.amazon.com/Acer-G257HU-smidpx-25-Inch-Widescreen/dp/B00QS0AKVK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1478271680&sr=1-1&keywords=2560x1440

Either one puts the total a little over the 1100 budget, but the difference would be very very noticeable, and OP would get a true feeling of PCMR

That is exactly what got me here... can someone confirm this as a decent option? For now I just want to do older sims up to SNES, I realize I would probably need an upgrade for PSX/N64/Wii.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C6Q2GSY/

How about a good controller option?
https://www.amazon.com/iNNEXT-Nintendo-Controller-Raspberry-Windows/dp/B01MYUDDCV/

I’m so glad you asked this question before buying. First of all, no question is silly. The daily question thread is exactly for these types of quick answer questions.

Do not buy the Nintendo official SD cards. They’re way way overpriced. I’d buy either a Sandisk or Samsung 128gb Micro SD card ($40), as that size give you best bang for the buck. I’ll link a couple below. If you want something smaller or bigger, just let me know.

I’m one of the mods here, so welcome to the subreddit!

Samsung 128gb

Sandisk 128gb

microSD Card|Price|Cost per GB|
:--|:-:|:-:|
Sandisk Ultra 64GB|$15.99 (36% Off)|$0.25/GB|
Sandisk Ultra 128GB|$26.98 (21% Off)|$0.21/GB|
Sandisk Ultra 200GB|$34.99 (40% Off)|$0.175/GB|
Sandisk Ultra 256GB|$51.99 (65% Off)|$0.20/GB|
Sandisk Ultra 400GB|$99.99 (60% Off)|$0.25/GB|

Except for the 64GB and 400GB these are Black Friday level cost/GB. The 400GB deal is still great, being the largest and newest on the market.

The Switch only supports UHS-1 cards, which have a 104MB/s max read speed. SanDisk Ultra cards are listed as being up to 100MB/s. The load time of a digital Switch game hardly changes between slow and fast read times. Eurogamer found a 0.3 second load time difference between a 30MB/s card and a 90MB/s card. For most users you want to consider capacity (how much do you need) and value (cost per GB), not speed.

https://www.amazon.com/Acer-G257HU-smidpx-25-Inch-Widescreen/dp/B00QS0AKVK

This is a similar model that I own two of. Great monitor apart from the barely-adjustable stand.

To be honest it's far too high of a price. I bought this one: Sandisk 200GB MicroSDXC for just $50 about 1.5 months ago. Granted it's now at $77 on Amazon (though cheaper from other sellers, but be careful about counterfeits).

Still, at $77 you get a much better value instead of paying $50 for another 56GB. If you wait for it to go back down in price you can fetch it for $40-$50 which is much more reasonable (1/3 to 1/4 the price).

No problems on my end with the SanDisk :D

Edit: Updating price.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E3W1726/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here you can get the 250g on Amazon for $109 compared to Neweggs $149. You still get the game free with this deal also. Picked this up yesterday and just gotta wait for the email code

Forget about the i5 for $20 more, at $160, you can go for the Ryzen 5 2600 for a mere $6 more.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B41WS48/

Unless you don't need a GPU at all or you do need a GPU but you just need GT 1030 level graphics, the Ryzen 5 2600 is the way to go in my opinion.

Same price on Amazon

Samsung evo is a better sd card and goes for the same price pretty much 100% of the time https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XWZWYVP/

Don't buy SD cards in physical retail locations like bestbuy. Their "deals" are just them marking the price down to the actual online price when most of the time they are marked way up. When they do go on sale for real you'll see them for like $25-$40 on Amazon.

EDIT Here's the Sandisk one https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDXC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-128G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q57S62 for the same price on Amazon. No mention of a sale while bestbuy is claiming $118 off. Just bestbuy fuckary going on there. Samsung one I linked is still better as it's rated 30MB/s minimum while the sandisk is 10MB/s minimum.

Guarantee it? Easy! Build something better:

• 1x: https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY
  
  
• 2x: https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Bluetooth-Controller-Classic-Joystick-Android/dp/B014QP2H1E
  
  
• Spend an hour setting up https://retropie.org.uk/
  
  Congratulations! You now have a:
  
  
• Atari 2600 (RetroArch)
  
• Game Boy Advance (gpSP)
  
• Game Boy Color (RetroArch)
  
• Game Gear (Osmose)
  
• Intellivision (RetroArch)
  
• NeoGeo (Genesis-GX, RetroArch)
  
• Sega Master System (Osmose)
  
• Sega Megadrive (DGEN, Picodrive)
  
• Nintendo Entertainment System (RetroArch)
  
• N64 (Mupen64Plus-RPi)
  
• Playstation 1 (RetroArch)
  
• Super Nintendo Entertainment System (RetroArch, PiSNES, SNES-Rpi)
  
• and more!
  
  That is ~2.5 inches wide, ~3.5 inches long and ~1 inch high.
  
  
  Otherwise, get in line at a Best Buy about a month in advance.

Game Pad Keyboard

Red Swing Line Stapler There's a newer version as well.

Cleaning Cloth for monitors and glasses

Speakers Get any kind really. This is what I have and they are good for the money.

Timer - for when you tell your SO you will do something or to remember the roast in the oven.

Extra Monitor. Already have one? Add another!

Still have money left over? Try these sites:

Think Geek

Dude I Want That

Same exact price on Amazon, would definitely rather buy it there even if it has taxes.

Yup. That still doesn't discount that you are comparing a sales price to an MSRP. Factually, the 860 EVO didn't even last a month at MSRP before it was discounted 12% on amazon.com. Why would this be any different?

List:

• ZTE F609 - GPON ONT from ISP, bridge mode and connected to pfsense.
  
  
• Mikrotik CSS326-24G-2S+RM - Super budget 24 ports switch with basic features and 2 SFP+ ports for only $139 brand new, you just can't beat that price.
  
  
• Ubiquiti Unifi AP AC Lite - To handle wireless devices in my house, to be honest I was very disappointed with the temp, it runs very hot and it's the reason why I didn't mount it on the ceiling. If I knew all Unifi AP runs this hot, I would've go with other brand. Many people have told me that it's fine, but mine reaches 70 degrees on idle (I live in place where it can reach almost 40 degrees) and if I mount it on the ceiling without proper ventilation, it probably can go up to 80-85 degrees and I've seen couple post on Ubqt forum that their AP melted due to the temperature.
  
  
• Plugable 7 port USB hub - I have an unused spare. It's kinda expensive if you compare it to other cheap chinese crap but it doesn't backfeed power and super reliable, the other one is currently used to power my Pi2 24/7 for almost 2 years without single issue.
  
  
• Deepcool cooler - Super old notebook cooler I found on my garage, currently use this to blow the hot air from Unifi AP until I finish my mod to mount 120mm fan on the ceiling so I can put my AP.
  
  
• PC - Spec is G4400, Asrock H110M-HDV, PNY SSD CS1311 80GB, 2 WD hard drive 2TB, 8GB RAM, and 2x single NIC Intel PT Pro. This thing run Windows 10 and pfsense under Hyper-V (not a good idea I know). Also act as my media and storage server. I'm very surprised that this thing pulls less than 20w on idle!
  
  
• Others - Old monitor I found in my garage, probably from Intel dual core era, some cheap landline phone, a bluetooth keyboard, and bluetooth mouse.
  
  All these only pull about 40w, my next upgrade is probably to invest in a decent rack so I can have a better cable management.

Like u/Jack_Bohlen said - the documentation is really good and you should be able to find answers to most of your questions. Being able to read and follow instructions carefully is important, especially if you get into doing anything from the command line.

If you can follow directions, you should have very few problems going from a box full of components to a basic working system in a short time.

Here are the instructions I gave a friend recently:

• Buy this - https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY
  
• Buy whatever USB controllers you prefer or use a PS3/4 controller if you have them
  
• Download RetroPie, follow instructions to put that on the SD. https://github.com/retropie/retropie-setup/wiki/First-Installation#installation
  
• Put SD in Pi.
  
• Plug it in.
  
• Follow instructions here to copy ROMs over - https://github.com/retropie/retropie-setup/wiki/Transferring-Roms
  
  Oh, and I guess you want to have a USB keyboard handy just in case. But it is a really easy process to get started.

The one with up to 80 MB/s read speed is only $8 more.

Or don't and get a raspberry pi and put Kodi on it.

Here^1 is^2 everything^3 you^4 need to make a KodiPi with enough space to put a bunch of movies on (if you wish, otherise just get a smaller mSD). About the same price as a brand new roku, but you can do a lot more with it, and it's open source so you could do whatever you wanted with the device.

Don't forget a Bluetooth adapter :)

If you don't care about the logo on the card

https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-microSDXC-Memory-Adapter-Performance/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=SanDisk+128GB+Ultra&qid=1570574681&s=computers&sr=1-1

If you get all those devices in one box, they're going to all be inferior to discrete solutions. And if one breaks, you're throwing away several perfectly functioning devices.

Edgerouter Lite 3-port: $95

Unifi AC-Lite: $86

TP-Link Gigabit Switch: $25

If you want to do cheap NAS, you might as well just share a drive on a desktop over the network.

Evening Tim,

My default suggestion is Ubiquiti gear. However something seems, very, very wrong with your network. You shouldn't have a device limit and I would pressure Asus for a fix. RMA it again and make them resolve the problem.

That being said, you said less than $200 so I will offer this:

https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C

https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/

Little bit more upfront config. However you will be far happier with the results.

$1000 for an i5 / 1050 with a 144hz panel? That won't push those frames on newer games anyway. $1400 for a 1060? I can find better deals on amazon right now and it's not even black friday.


Acer Predator Helios 300 Gaming Laptop, 15.6" FHD IPS w/ 144Hz Refresh Rate, Intel 6-Core i7-8750H, Overclockable GeForce GTX 1060 6GB, 16GB DDR4, 256GB NVMe SSD

For $1100, even the non sale price is better than Wally.

I can pretty much guarantee that's the case. I pay for 50/5 and as you can see it's right on the button with a little extra room on top.

This comes after the 'stealth upgrade' we got a few months ago - meaning, for the same price I used to get 25/5. A speedtest result would produce the same results, around 26/6 - what I paid for plus a little extra.

Comcast keeps a close eye on what the throttle speed is here.

My equipment is a self-bought DOCSIS 3.0 motorola modem hooked to an ASUS RT-N66U Dual-Band Wireless-N900 Gigabit Router so I know it's not my hardware preventing a higher speed.

29.99 for the sandisk 128gb on amazon right now if anyone's interested

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B010Q57S62/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new

Edit: nvm dead

Get the Logitech one.

Unless you need the small form factor, this should perform identical to the cheaper 2.5in SATA drives.

I would do the following to be sure your laptop will last you several years:

1. Download software to monitor the temp of you CPU and GPU, personally I use MSI Afterburner
   
2. If your CPU temps are higher than 85C, consider undervolting using this guide
   
3. If your laptop is hooked up to an external monitor, get a laptop stand like this to increase airflow
   
4. Every 6 months or so, remove the bottom panel of the laptop, and use compressed air to clear out dust from the internal components
   
   Aside from that, I would also recommend replacing your slow 1TB HDD with a 2.5" SSD. I own a Y740 myself, and I replaced the HDD with this following this guide

Definitely not running rust on an integrated GPU. You'll need at least 8gb of ram and I would recommend a GTX 1060. you might be able to get by with a 1050 on potato quality. For a gaming laptop I would recommend the Acer Helios 300. Probably the single best bang-for-your-buck gaming laptop.

The AP you have specified is 802.11bgn only so its not a fair comparison. To be more equitable you should specify this AP which is 802.11a/b/g/n/ac. ($82.35 each)

Plus no one should be buying an AP in today's wireless world that doesn't have a 5GHz radio. 2.4GHz is overcrowded, interference laden shit and should be steered away from wherever possible.

Not OP, but we've deployed Ubiquiti products in a few of our enterprise customers and it is running great. I am not sure how much you already know about networking, but I'll explain for anyone else reading.

First, some background to fully understand what it is you are trying to do. The thing that most consumers call "routers" are really three things: a router, a switch, and an access point. TLDR the router portion is the thing that actually moves traffic between machines, the switch extends how many physical ethernet ports you have, and the access point gives you wifi.

The Ubiquiti Access Points (UAP) are just access points. You will still need a router to route traffic, and your consumer one will work just fine for most people. If you are looking to get something more SOHO, Ubiquiti also makes their own router/firewall (check out USG, or ideally EdgeRouter). For all intents and purposes, it is a pretty good idea to separate the roles of your network (physical appliances for the router, firewall, wireless, etc...), and you can have as many UAP's as you'd like for wireless. The UAP's run off of Ubiquiti's 24V Power-over-Ethernet (POE), which can be provided via a POE injector or with a Ubiquiti Switch (either Unifi or EdgeMax). So for a basic network, you'll disable the wireless functionality on your consumer router, and plug a UAP into a port (obviously you'll need to pass it through the POE injector first). Rinse and repeat for however many UAP's you want, maybe another one on the other side of the house for example.

The UAP is pretty useless on its own, though. It needs a piece of software called the Unifi Controller. The software is free, and you can run it on Windows, Linux, or with Ubiquiti's appliance called the Cloud Key. Within Unifi Controller, you'll setup the UAP's; e.g. setting the visible wifi name (SSID), security, channels, etc... It isn't too complicated, the interface is really intutive and anyone who is even slightly technical could figure it out. The controller also serves another really important feature, which is zero-handoff. As long as the controller is running, your device will connect to the access point with the best signal. This is the seamless switching you asked about.

Ubiquiti also is focused on mesh networking, although we are generally pretty against that for businesses for reliability reasons. Of course, the exception to that is Cisco Meraki, which is a hybrid that will self-heal. If you lie and say you are an IT professional, you can get a free Meraki with a 3 year license. Just make sure that you follow the rules.

As a note, I would stick to the UAP AC's. They are the newer version and run great. For consumers, the UAP-AC-LITE is going to work fine. Obviously there is more to networking and wireless solutions than what I went over here, but this is the general gist of it.

Here is a video that goes over current SD card specifications pretty well. I'll post what I got out of it and a little bit of additional research:

CAPACITY

There are three different types of SD cards that indicate a size range. SD cards are up to 2GB and are useless for our purposes. SDHC cards are from 4-32 GB and are ill-advised since 32GB isn't really enough. What we're interested in is SDXC cards which are from 64GB to 2TB. Each card has a micro version which is what we need. Capacity type doesn't have an impact on performance.

WRITE SPEED

There are two different families of speed classes that indicate a minimum write performance. The first, traditional speed class comes in Class 2, Class 4, Class 6, and Class 10. The number corresponds to their write speed, Class 2 is 2MB/s, class 10 is 10MB/s. This class is denoted by their number inside of a "C".

The other family of speed class is UHS. There are only two types, type 1 and type 3. These are denoted by their number inside of a "U" shaped symbol. UHS1 writes at 10MB/s, UHS3 writes at 30MB/s. That means the Class 10 and UHS1 have the same minimum write performance, but we're just going to look at UHS cards from now on. It is possible for a card to claim a UHS class speed, and a Class 10 speed.

Bus Interface

There are two different bus interfaces for UHS cards, UHS-I and UHS-II. These are denoted by roman numerals rather than our numbers. UHS-II cards have a second row of connection pins on the back of the card, while UHS-I just has the single row. UHS-II cards can transfer data faster than UHS-I cards when they are in a UHS-II compatible machine. If the machine is not UHS-II compatible then there is no benefit, however the UHS-II card will still work as it is backwards compatible. It does not look like the Nintendo Switch is UHS-III compatible, so there is no benefit to using a UHS-II card in it, which is a shame because the II interface can help read speeds tremendously.

So what is Nintendo recommending with OP's card? A microSDXC UHS3-I card. Meaning it is a micro version of a 64GB card, with the best write speed class, and the standard/worse Bus interface.

Nintendo-licensed Sandisk microSDXC 64GB UHS3-I for $19.99

Non licensed Sandisk microSDXC 64GB UHS3-I card for $23

/u/Nobody_is_lurking posted two contenders...

Sandisk microSDXC 64GB UHS1-I card for $14.25

Sandisk microSDXC 128GB UHS1-I card
for $23.25


...but it isn't actually an apples to apples comparison, as they are both UHS1 rather than UHS3. The $6 question is how big of a difference is there functionally between the two speed classes when actually being used by a Switch, which someone already took the time to test!

The results show that, when write speed was involved, the difference was significant, and that installed games can go by 3x faster using a UHS3 card. So sure, the UHS3 is a clear winner for installing, but what people really care about are load times, showed a less drastic story. Installing locally on the Switch beats any external storage options that we're looking at, then the UHS3 trailed shortly behind, with UHS1 following a little longer. For a regularly installed game the difference in load times doesn't seem to be more than a couple of seconds, even if the load time is a minute long. This guy also tested homebrew launched games though, which did show a much bigger difference between UHS1 and UHS3. So there is a difference in load time, but just not a massive one that many people would notice.

Looking at value, for whatever reason the Nintendo-licensed cards are currently cheaper than their equivalent nonlicensed cards, both the 64Gb and 128GB. Obviously the UHS-1 is cheaper than the UHS-3 across the board.

But if you want to branch away from Sandisk you can have the best of both worlds with a Samsung 64GB UHS3-I card for $15 The price per MB stays consistent at bigger sizes as well, so if you wanted a 128GB one it'd be $30.

tl;dr Buy this one. It is better and cheaper.

I splurged and got this guy.

Expensive, but if you can swing it, the range & performance are fantastic.

I'm guessing you're still on Wireless-G for your Wifi. That's your bottleneck. Plug a computer into the router and see the speeds it achieves.

I bought myself a brand new router and I pull down 40mbps throughout the house.

http://www.amazon.com/RT-N66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-N900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B006QB1RPY

Logitech G240 Cloth Gaming Mouse Pad for Low-DPI Gaming $14.99 ($19.99 - $5.00)

Logitech G13 Programmable Gameboard with LCD Display $38.99 ($79.99 - $41.00)

Logitech G400s Optical Gaming Mouse $31.99 ($59.99 - $28.00)

Logitech G700s Rechargeable Gaming Mouse $49.99 ($99.99 - $50.00)

Logitech G510s Gaming Keyboard with Game Panel LCD Screen $59.99 ($119.99 - $60.00)

Logitech G35 7.1-Channel Surround Sound Headset $59.99 ($129.99 - $70.00)

Logitech G710+ Mechanical Gaming Keyboard with Tactile High-Speed Keys - Black $94.00 ($149.99 - $55.00)


Logitech G19s Gaming Keyboard with Color Game Panel Screen $99.99 ($199.99 - $100.00)

edit: Are there any of these that I would have to be put to death for not ordering? :D I have this hole in my pocket you see...

edit2: swapped ending price and discount on G710+ - would have been a much better deal though...

edit3: prices are beginning to rise back to normal/sell out. Sad days.

edit4: Amazon is apparently going to try to get re-stocking done throughout the day to allow more purchases at the sale price. If it's out of stock when you look the first time, check again in a while. I'll try to keep this list up-to-date as best I can.

edit5: Even better, for me anyway. Looks as if if they are going to stop re-stocking the items, they are completely removing the item from the page I linked. If you see a strike-throughd item above, it WAS here, now it's gone Johnson. Again, will update as I can.

edit6: Nope. Bastards are re-adding items to the page... grumble grumble... :D

edit7: I decided to dig a little bit, and turns out, if you follow my links in this post rather than only relying on just the deal page itself, they are updated more frequently and accurately. So, use these links in conjunction to the thread title, and you may very well benefit! Still updating, sleepy times soon though... Maybe...

edit8: That's all, she wrote! Some of the items prices are retaining their sale value as of this last edit, so, maybe it'll be a new list price for them, who knows, but I am marking the sale as over, since the link is now officially pointed into oblivion.. Thanks for the wonderful day of sales and discussions, and for those of you who got some new equipment, congratulations! Hope you enjoy them!

I'm mainly echoing some things that other people have said but here's my two cents,

Can you use your thumb very well? You could consider investing in an MMO mouse like someone else suggested.

Also, if you have at least some use of your left hand to hit keys, like say, for example, you can hit 1, 2, and 3, but not 4, 5, and 6, you can consider getting one of those gaming foot pedals, and use the pedal as modifier keys so you can do say, like, 1 as a key by itself, left side of the pedal and 1, right side of the pedal and 1, and so on.

Another option which again, depends on your hands, is one of those ergonomic gamepads. You might find it easier to use one of these because of how the keys are spaced and curved inward than a traditional keyboard.

Again, I don't know your exact situation, but those are some recommendations as far as some hardware goes, which take varying degrees of monetary investment (but can be translated to other games, too!)

As far as your initial question involving Voiceattack, I don't know how Jagex's bot detection software works (obviously) but the general rule they put out is one input = 1 output, so if the program only does 1 thing per thing you tell it to do, like for example, if you tell it to use your 1 key, and it only presses that key once, then you should be good to go. However if it's set to hit 1, 2, and 3 in order when you only give it one command, then that's a no-go. But I personally would try to reach out to Jagex and get some sort of feedback from them first. That way if you somehow get banned or something, you're already out ahead of it and would probably have no issues getting your account back. Hypothetically speaking, though I'd think that this hypothetical is pretty out there anyway as long as the program is used within the one input = 1 output rule.

^ Also don't take my word to be gospel on this, I strongly strongly recommend getting official word from a Jagex rep before trying anything with any sort of program like that if you value your account

Good luck, and I wish you the best in your gaming endeavors

Difference between this and this?

http://www.amazon.com/Acer-G257HU-smidpx-25-Inch-Widescreen/dp/B00QS0AKVK

I just got mine, $250 was a little more than what I wanted to spend on a monitor but it looks great.

>Daher meine Frage an alle, die unterwegs viel Musik hören: Wie macht ihr das so?

200GB MicroSD, mit über 17000 Tracks ist da auch mehr als genug Auswahl geboten. Wenns noch mehr sein darf, kannst du dir ja ne 256GB-Karte holen, die sind aber im Vergleich zur 200GB-Variante relativ teuer.

Inventory:

pfSense:
Snort, pfBlockerNG, OpenVPN, Squid, ClamAV, Default deny ingress/egress FW, etc.

ZOTAC ZBOX NUC

Kingston 120GB SSD

Crucial 8GB DDR3L RAM

ESXi Hypervisor:

Skull Canyon NUC

32GB DDR4 RAM

Samsung 950 Pro 512GB M.2 SSD

Virtual Machines I'm currently running.

Splunk - Receives my FW, DNS, Snort, and OSSEC logs. I have dashboards to filter this data.

Snorby - Also receives my Snort logs. I like this a little better than Splunk as I can view packet contents.

OSSEC - I used this for file integrity and endpoint monitoring on my servers and desktop. Functions as a host based IDS.

Nessus - I use this every once in a while to see if there are any open holes. Otherwise, I just use nmap and iptables to close everything off.

Unifi Controller - for managing my AP.


Wireless:

Ubiquiti Unifi AP-AC Lite


Switch:

TP-LINK 8-Port Gigabit L2 Switch

RetroPi + Monitor:

RPi3

10.1 Inch IPS HDMI Monitor


My VMs, configs, and files are backed up to a HDD I keep offline. I'm thinking about adding a NAS into the mix for somewhere around 200-400 dollars. Low energy consumption preferably if anyone had any recommendations. :)

This thicc girl is proud of her bezels and flaunts them around however if you could spare another $50, her cuter sister has a higher refresh rate and smaller bezels. I am sorry you had to read that, thought I'd try to make you laugh however I made cringe.

You will NOT be disappointed with a UAP-AC-Lite. Just mount it on the ceiling, in a centrally located space in your home, preferably on the top level and enjoy the best WiFi you never thought was possible. I used to insist on wiring up everything with Gbps Ethernet, simply for the improved latency, but this access point has caused me to be lazy these days. We've had zero issues streaming 4K content out to the very edges of 2.4GHz band in an environment with moderate interference and there's regularly ~30 devices connected at all times across a couple SSIDs each on its own VLAN.

It's hard to describe how much better the experience is coming from the usual consumer grade stuff. $80 and can be powered (via PoE injector) from a single cable:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015PR20GY/

Built one this week, actually. Here's the guide I followed:
https://arstechnica.com/gaming/2017/04/one-upping-the-nes-classic-edition-with-the-raspberry-pi-3-and-retropie/

I bought my raspberry and 2 controllers off of Amazon. Cost me about $100 total. Canakit makes starter kits for around $80 that comes with all the hardware you need to make it ready to load games. Took about an hour to have it ready to load all your games. I have around 2k games from 5 different systems and they all fit on a 32 gb card.

Edit: I found the kit I bought. It was $70

https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY

I would like to second some of the other people here.


Despite knowing this is the Intel subreddit, since you have to replace your motherboard anyways, you might find it worthwhile instead looking at AMD's Ryzen platform. A 2600 ($15 cheaper), 2600X (same price as the 9400f) or 3600 ($50 more) may prove a more worthwhile buy.


It would help more to know exactly what your usecase is, but, going for Ryzen should be the correct choice in the price range of that 9400f in more circumstances than the 9400f would be. Also take into account that the Ryzen CPUs are all unlocked and may be overclocked whereas only K-SKU's on Intel may be.


I hope that this gave you some more insight!

I have an ASUS wireless router that has USB ports on the back that support a hard drive or printer that can be shared on the network. This is a good option and it works well.

I'd also have to recommend the Samsung 840 Evo. I got a 250gb one for around $110 on sale back in march, and it's amazing.

They're still around $120 but it's totally worth it. I'd also recommend this size in particular. 120 is too small and the others are too expensive.

Transferring Windows over was a huge pain, but once it was done and I restarted, it was totally worth it. If you do a clean install it's way quicker. Seeing your pc boot to an instantly usable desktop in less than 10 seconds is totally worth it. Also putting steam on it was awesome.

I've been able to quit a cs:go competitive match, restart my computer, open steam, and rejoin the game well within the 3 minute window before you get penalized for leaving.

tl:dr get one

>storage capacity would go up in multiples of 8

It's not always advertised like that though. You can get 250GB or 500GB SSDs. But yes, typically with flash cards and USB drives, it's multiples of 8.

Be mindful of what accessories you personally need. People needs are different. The only global accessories that seem to be useful to everyone:

1. A screen protector. This applies to pretty much any tablet accessory where the screen is not covered by design (like the 3DS clam shell). This is the one I got and it works well ($9.00):
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N3ASPNV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
   
2. A carrying case. Being portable, odds are you will want to take it out at some point. Seeing it's an expensive piece of hardware, it makes sense to have a case to put everything in it for protection. You can buy the neat ones with colors and crazy designs and space, but for me, this basic one works perfectly fine ($13.00):
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X97FLWF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
   
3. An extra charger. Unless you already have a Type C charger, you will likely want to get one. Usually goes for $15.00.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Charger-CHOETECH-Included-Nintendo-Supported/dp/B017I7EX46/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506098286&sr=1-8&keywords=switch+charger
   
   
   
4. If, and ONLY if you plan to get your games digitally, you WILL want an additional memory card. The one I paste below has enough space for at least 20 games given the average game space that we've seen so far (BoTW takes 14 GB, but Mario Odyssey takes 5.5 Gb, so in average, it evens out.). Note this is only the games you can have installed at a time, you can always remove one or more if you want to download another one, and games you purchase digitally will always be available for re download as long as the eshop exists.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V62XBQQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
   Any other accessory should REALLY be considered on a need-to basis. Not everyone needs a pro controller (depending on the games you play, I've been fine without it with only BoTW, Mario Kart, Fate/Extella and Mario+Rabbids.), and not everyone needs an extra, improved stand/dock.
   
   Finally, do some research on what games you will actually want to play. What I've seen is that games on the switch are NOT cheap, and unless you have extra disposable income, buying a game you don't really play can lower your overall appreciation of the system. Not only that, but because releases are sparse at the moment, it's easier to jump into the hype in order to keep using your shiny new hardware. Though that really applies to any console.

Get the Klipsch Promedia 2.1 system. You can find it on sale for $100-$125 if you keep an eye out.

I had the 4.1 system before it got ruined in a flood, and got the newer 2.1 system a few months ago. Great clarity and monster bass for the size of the sub.

edit: no need for a soundcard. The mobo sound jack is more than capable, unless your system is from 8 years ago.

buy something like: http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-ProMedia-Certified-Computer-Speaker/dp/B000062VUO

You can plug your ipod directly into it, you don't need any amplifiers or additional equipment to make it work.

It isn't the loudest most beautiful thing around, but it's not terrible and it does have bass.

someone mention Amazon Price match this now Link

You really don't want your router doing wireless, it is preferable to have a dedicated Access Point (AP) doing wireless. Unfortunately what people think of "routers" now are actually three devices in one, they are a router, switch (multiple lan ethernet ports), and access point (wireless). Personally I feel the combo devices do a bad job at all three of those which is why I prefer to have dedicated devices for each piece. If you plan on using an existing router and just want wireless I would suggest the unifi ac lite access point.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY

If you need a router as well then I would use the access point and pfsense for your router. You could use a wired nic like this in an existing computer.

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-1000-Dual-Server-Adapter/dp/B000BMZHX2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527380550&sr=1-3&keywords=intel+dual+gigabit

Pfsense does support wireless cards but trust me you don't want to go down that road for many reasons. Any time that topic comes up most users on this subreddit suggest against it myself included. I have tried building wireless into my pfsense build before and quickly abandoned it.

Same here. Tried to be honest but Nintendo shipping 10 total minis to each store in Anchorage (insanity) pushed me over the edge. Amazon. Do it. https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1484331052&sr=1-3&keywords=raspberry+pi+3 that's the one I ordered. Complete kit. Join the resistance

I highly recommend anyone looking to do memory expansion for their Switch to not go with the particular version of the Sandisk Ultra microSD cards. You'll be better served getting either this Sandisk Ultra or the Samsung Evo that /u/Squidula linked to in his comment.

Both have 100mb/s Read/Write speeds versus this one's 48mb/s speed. Some games may lag or just not load at the lower speed and it's only going to be more and more of a requirement to have the 100mb/s speed in the future.

Just a few ideas...

• Nerdy stuff from ThinkGeek.
  
• A Raspberry Pi kit, if you think he'd be into tinkering with hardware.
  
• It's probably going to be more than $70, but a nice mechanical keyboard is a great gift. Das Keyboard, Code, and Logitech G710+ are safe choices.
  
• Book-wise, consider Code. It's a classic for every programmer to read.

It's pretty easy to build a Raspberry Pi for retro gaming. I have built 3 of them recently: 1 for myself, and 2 for family members.

First thing you'll need is the Raspberry Pi itself. You can get it for as cheap as $35, but that's just the system board. No power cord, SD card, or even a case. So I recommend getting this kit for $70.

https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY

It comes with everything you'll need: the system board, a case, 32 GB SDcard, HDMI cable, etc. This is the latest model, the Raspberry Pi 3. It has 4 USB ports for controllers, wifi, ethernet, even bluetooth. You'll also need controllers. The Raspberry Pi works best with Xbox and Playstation controllers. You'll have to use USB controllers, but I've read that the new Xbox One S controllers work with Bluetooth. Hell, you can even use your phone! If the Raspberry Pi is connected to your Wifi, just open up Chrome, enter the IP address, and BAM! Touch screen controller.

Next, you'll need RetroPie. This is a pre-made image for the Raspberry Pi. It has all the emulators and GUI you'll need. All you do is supply the ROMs. You can download the latest RetroPie build from here.

https://retropie.org.uk/

Next is the ROMs. I downloaded all the ROMs from EmuParadise.

https://www.emuparadise.me/

This part will take some time since you need to download the game individually, but you can find any game you are looking for. Even rare prototype versions of unreleased games for any system you can think of.

Finally, here's a good tutorial for putting it all together. Hope this helps!

http://lifehacker.com/how-to-turn-your-raspberry-pi-into-a-retro-game-console-498561192

Don't go with repeaters. What you should get is a wireless bridge. This will act just like a wire, allowing you to install an access point in the Hall with the same SSID and password (for roaming).

Repeaters cut the speed in half. Having several in succession means there will be nothing left at the other end.

Have a look at Ubiquiti Nanobeam AC. These will act just like if it was a long wire. You will be able to get a very good connection and the speed won't suffer. They are rated up to 15km, so 450 ft is nothing for them.

Install one on the church, one on the hall, and then get a nice access point for the hall, like the Ubiquiti Unifi AP AC Lite.

They aren't too expensive and should fit well in your budget. Amazon.com has them for $90 each. For the AP, Amazon.com has them for $82. If the hall is large, you could get a switch and 2-3 APs to get a good coverage.

Total cost for 2 nanobeam and an AP : $262
Total cost for 2 nanobeam, a switch and 3 APs : $454

Beginners Help:

1. Run the VR compatibility check: https://store.steampowered.com/search/?snr=1_4_4__12&term=steam+WMR+performce+test
   
   
2. Upgrade to Windows 10 version 1809:
   https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
   
   
3. Load Steam VR: https://store.steampowered.com/app/250820/
   
   
4. Load STEAM WMR: https://store.steampowered.com/app/719950/
   
   
5. Bluetooth: For all but Samsung Odyssey HMD+, be sure your computer has a Bluetooth capability to talk to the hand controllers. If capability is not built in, buy a Bluetooth dongle and plug it into a USB 2 port. AND, if possible place this in an USB 2 port that is away from the Headset connection to the computer --- perhaps the front of the computer. Known to work (Plugable Bluetooth 4.0 low energy.): https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Bluetooth-Adapter-Raspberry-Compatible/dp/B009ZIILLI
   
   
6. Pair your controllers:
   https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/mixed-reality/enthusiast-guide/set-up-windows-mixed-reality#set-up-your-motion-controllers
   
   
7. Play Space: be sure you clear plenty of space. If you are 6 foot, you need a nine foot ceiling. You can break controllers, your hands, or TVs etc. if you do not have enough space.
   
   
8. Games: start with free, and check STEAM for the MOST played.
   
   
   Consider:
   
   a. The Lab
   
   b. Rec Room
   
   c. Google Earth
   
   d. You Tube
   
   e. Beat Saber
   
   f. Elven Assassin
   
   g. Arizona Sunshine
   
   h. Gorn
   
   i. Pavlov
   
   
9. Buy rechargeable batteries: highly rated from IKEA
   https://www.amazon.com/Ikea-ladda-Battery-rechargeable-2450/dp/B01MQ0U97A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1544531944&sr=8-4&keywords=ikea+rechargeable+batteries#customerReviews

Debating picking up the Logitech pad for gaming and parametric modeling. Anyone know if it's worth getting?

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE/ref=lp_16352389011_1_9?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1502721197&sr=1-9

Actually I'm kind of nervous about it now. It's not reviewed too highly, most reviews note about keys dying after 2 months. I'll have to keep an eye on the mfg warranty. Oh well $35 is $35.

I have the Dark Knight version.

I would go with the ASUS RT-N66U it is a great router and excellent range.
Amazon!

The solution to this is simple. Buy a $70 DOCSIS 3.0 modem and a $120 or less wireless router. Return your equipment to Comcast and KEEP THE RECEIPT.

The price is set by the retailer and then we get a percentage of the sale if you make the purchase. The price is the same on the retailer as an affiliate link.

For example:

Direct Amazon link for an R6 2600 $149.99: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B41WS48/

PCPP affiliate link for an R6 2600 $149.99: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B41WS48/?tag=pcpapi-20

To back up the claim..this is Amazon's listing for about $135 shipped https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B41WS48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OoDnDbGM4C1ZS

Decent drive but a QVO not EVO which is much faster and be had at Amazon for $139 now if want a faster drive.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078DPCY3T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The unifi ac-lite is $81 on amazon so out of your budget but it's just barely enough to cover my small ass apt.. your house is smaller than this?

Of course :)

Vital parts -

Raspberry pi: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C6Q2GSY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Controls: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251913055189?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Monitor: https://www.amazon.com/VIZIO-D24-D1-Class-Smart-Black/dp/B01A0LGS7W

Extras -

Amplifier (for the 3-way speakers): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HRR5AWQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LED lights (there's a glow below the controls): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H6O6LA0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the speakers I just tore apart some Fluance 3-way tower speakers I had laying around.

I think it's only a difference of $50, not $120. But personally, the standard POE on the PRO is worth it.
Lite
Pro

There are APs that have some switch capability, but most of them are enterprise level. You can put a router into AP mode and it may also switch locally, or you can install an open source OS on a router and set it up that way - but it's going to have more poor performance than a stand-alone switch or AP.

• Ubiquiti AC-LITE $80
  
• TP-Link 8-port switch $30
  
• 1ft Ethernet $1.50
  
• Power strip $6
  
  Total: $117.50 which is less than most routers and with better wifi and switching.

Well the control panel he used is this but you could build your own control panel for cheaper by using one of these. If you wanted to only run MAME games then you could easily get by with a Raspberry Pi. Next you want the actual cabinet... There are a few routes you can go. You could buy a kit, you could buy some sheets of plywood and build one yourself using these plans, OR if you're lucky you could find an old broken arcade cabinet on craigslist for super cheap. Once you do all of that you'll have to get the software running on the raspberry pi. So going back on the cost... You could spend anywhere from $500 to $3000 all depending on the specifications you want.

Source: Built one myself

Amazon link of the product (not recertified) for those wanting to read more reviews on it

- https://www.amazon.com/Acer-XFA240-bmjdpr-Response-Technology/dp/B06ZYHZ6R6

​

>24" Full HD (1920 x 1080) Widescreen TN G-SYNC Compatible Display
>
>144Hz refresh rate- using Display port, response time: 1ms
>
>Height, pivot, swivel and tilt. Viewing angles° horizontal, 160° vertical
>
>2 x 2W speakers. Panel Type- twisted nematic film (TN film). color supported- 16.7 million. Brightness- 350 nit
>
>Signal inputs: 1 x Display Port (V1.2), 1 x HDMI/MHL & 1 x DVI
>
>Mounting Type: VESA compatible (Yes)

​

First of all: Screen Protector. Once it's on you never notice it, doesn't hurt to get that extra safety!

I've bought 10 games so far, and I'd say get all of these because I have enjoyed them. BOTW, Splatoon 2, Sonic Mania, Rayman Legends, Dragon Ball Xenoverse 2 (assuming you like DBZ,) Mario Kart 8 Deluxe, Pokken Tournament DX, Street Fighter 2 Ultra, Mario + Rabbids Kingdom Battle, and Yooka Laylee.

If I had to pick 3 for you to get to start out then I would pick Breath of the Wild, Splatoon 2, and Mario Kart 8 Deluxe. I think that's enough variety to keep you busy for awhile.

A carrying is always a good thing, I'd recommend This case because it's the one I use and does its job.

Accessory wise I have joycon grips which are AMAZING when playing with one joycon.

Also, the grip it comes with is trash. Get the Power A Grip it feels A LOT better in your hands.

As for SD Cards, it depends. I have a 32GB SD card. I mainly buy physical games, The extra space is for screenshots and videos, and download only games, like Sonic Mania, Yooka Laylee, etc. If you're going for digital only then get a 256GB. Sure you won't use a ton of space now, but you might a few years down the line. Also, do NOT get the official Nintendo ones. They are a RIP-OFF! Here are some nice alternatives that will get the job done for A LOT cheaper: 32 GB 64 GB 128 GB and finally 256 GB

If you have any other questions feel free to ask OP, and other (potential) switch owners!

Quick edit: sorry that some links won't be put with the text, no idea what the issue is

I have the Logitech G13. It may be more expensive than this, but with the amount of extra keys + LCD display, I feel like it would be much more worth it than this. The G13 doesn't have mechanical keys, but they still preform exceptionally well. The LCD display may sound like a stupid little add-on, but it does come in handy. It comes with a few standard apps that include: Clock, Timer, RSS, POP3 Email Viewer, and performance monitor, and Media. Not to mention the ability to make your own applets.

Oh, and if you have Fraps, you will find that the G13 will have a Fraps applet pop up. It displays the current FPS for any Fraps compatible game.

At the time I bought it, the Logitech G13 was only $70. I programmed all sorts of macros that would either run full CLI commands or fill all but the last couple of digits/arguments (like 'ping 10.20.128.'). I became the Fastest nslookuper in the West with that thing. It was also cool to have hotkeys to launch apps.

I didn't find it condescending at all. I found it helpful. I learned about which USB-c cable to buy from the comments. Thanks. Looking into memory cards now.

Edit. I ended up buying this one. SanDisk Ultra 200GB Micro SD (SDSDQUAN-200G-G4A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V62XBQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WqgRybN7CZK0A

Honestly I got the 200gb Sandisk here. It's probably the best value since the 256 is WAY more money. Anything more than this is a waste of cash IMO unless it's indeed true that the Switch's SD card reader can read/write blazing fast- even then, I can't justify any more cost than this.

$30 for an Ethernet cable

$70 32GB MIcroSD Card?

I can get a 200GB one for a little bit less!

The Moto Z costs 699.99. Let us assume the mod is 40 bucks. 739.98. I need to play four player multiplayer. 739.98 4 = 2959.92
Seems pretty reasonable. For the Switch, I'll need eight pro controllers, (These TINY and UNUSABLE Joy-Cons (What were they thinking with that name?) are not enough) so 69.99 8 + 299.99 = 859.91. Next, we need 7 more sets of Joycons, plus charging grips. (The layout of those Pro Controllers is awful. No analog triggers in 2017?) 859.91 + (109.98 7) = 1629.77. Okay, let's throw in 10 docks (How am I supposed to get the console experience without one in every square foot of my home?). 1629.77 + (89.99 10) = 2529.67. Okay, so next we're going to need a LOAD of battery packs. Here's a 20,000 mAh pack (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pocket-Juice-20000-mAh/183293926) that might (This is Nintendo!) work. 34.88 10 + 2529.67 = 2878.47. Oops, we forgot a microSD! 200 GB (Too small! We'll need four. https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-SDSDQUAN-200G-G4A/dp/B00V62XBQQ/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00V62XBQQ&pd_rd_r=YD4130B9T4VM4YRJHRSS&pd_rd_w=6v0nI&pd_rd_wg=IzihV&psc=1&refRID=YD4130B9T4VM4YRJHRSS) for 89.95. 89.95 4 + 2878.47 = 3238.39. Outrageous! Fake news! Sad! This costs more, and doesn't even have a SIM card slot. Well, I guess Nintendo will soon be pulling out of the market! Good riddance! 1/10 CNET

You can also get this one but I would recommend spending the few extra bucks on the other one

For the price, these speakers are GREAT. I used to own these for YEARS, but I upgraded to a Klispch Promedia 2.1 last year, which are amazing btw.

My issue is you could get a simple quick pad with an analog stick for significantly cheaper. While the design is cool.....There are all already better and cheaper methods.

I use this silverstone fan hub and just have my motherboard control the fans. Its even slim enough to stick between the back of the motherboard and rear panel on my S340. Most OEMs also have software that allows more fan control than what the BIOS can do.

I have a Kraken x62 and I've installed and messed around with CAM, but it is a terrible piece of software even compared to something like Corsair LINK. The default pump behavior works well enough so I don't even use CAM anymore.

I highly recommend this one: SilverStone PWM Fan Hub System Cables, Black (CPF04) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_bv1jhxoFNGKWr

I recommend exactly: SanDisk Ultra 128GB microSDXC UHS-I
(SDSQUNC-128G-GN6MA)

I own 3 of them and all have been working perfectly, started getting digital games since the Switch launch day on which currently I own well over 100+ Switch games.

Don't get the Nintendo branded SanDisk its extremely overpriced and its basically about the same one I suggested you.

Ofertas previas al viernes afro:

• JBL Charge 3 (90 dólares)
  
• ASUS VG248QE 24" (170 dólares)
  
• AOC G2460PF 24” (180 dólares)
  
• Acer GN246HL 24" (192 dólares)
  
• GOPRO Hero 7 y Samsung 128GB 100MB/s (U3) (199 dólares)
  
• Logitech G933 (90 dólares)
  
• Samsung 860 EVO 1TB (128 dólares)
  
• Samsung 970 EVO 500GB M2 (117 dólares)
  
• WD 4TB Elements Desktop Hard Drive (90 dólares)
  
• WD 8TB Elements Desktop (150 dólares)
  
• WD 10TB Elements Desktop (200 dólares)
  
• Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz C15 (125 dólares)
  
• Xbox One S 1TB Console - Minecraft Creators Bundle (200 dólares)
  
• Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum (48 dólares)
  
• Logitech G600 MMO Gaming Mouse (35 dólares)
  
• Fire HD 10 Tablet (100 dólares)
  
• NVIDIA Shield TV | 4K HDR (140 dólares)
  
• Kindle Paperwhite (130 dólares)
  
• Xiaomi Mi Box - 4K (62 dólares)
  
• SanDisk 128GB Ultra Fit USB 3.1 (20 dólares)
  
  De nada...

Hey p_orsk,

So glad to hear that we have another HomeLabber in our midst. I just thought I would take a minute and share with you my current build that has suited me very well. It is completely silent and power efficient, while still powerful enough to do what you want plus more. My build was also built to be small profile so this build is built around a Micro-ITX case. This build cost me $500 in the US in 2017, don't quite know what the price would be now.

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 1600 Processor with Wraith Spire Cooler
  
• Motherboard: ASUS PRIME A320M-K AMD Ryzen AM4 DDR4 HDMI VGA M.2 USB 3.1 Micro-ATX Motherboard
  
• PSU: EVGA 430 W1, 80+ WHITE 430W
  
• RAM: HyperX FURY Black 16GB Kit (2x8GB) 2133MHz DDR4
  
  As I said, this build should be completely silent. I went into the BIOS settings and turned it on Power-Saver mode for good measure, which makes things run a bit warmer, but keeps fan speeds down.
  
  I didn't list storage here, as it sounds like you got that covered. This motherboard also supports M.2 if you want to add that later.
  
  If I can make one suggestion, I would highly recommend getting into Virtualization. My poison of choice is Proxmox. I could really get into this, but it really helps when you are trying to expand.
  
  If you have any other questions, feel free to comment on this post, or shoot me a DM. I would be happy to help!
  
  [EDIT] This is just my experience. You will get 110 different answers from 100 different people in this world. You kinda just have to tinker to get what works for you.

Yuh, you can get it here

Is it a great price though? Amazon is listing it at 185,88$ regular price. (164,99$ right now)

AMD YD2600BBAFBOX Processeur RYZEN5 2600 Socket AM4 3.9Ghz Max Boost, 3,4Ghz Base+19MB https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07B41WS48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QL.YDbHSSKT9D

Sandisk Ultra 128GB Micro SDXC UHS-I Card with Adapter -  100MB/s U1 A1 - SDSQUAR-128G-GN6MA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_s.dNBbY708CJ1

Samsung 128GB 100MB/s (U3) MicroSD EVO Select Memory Card with Adapter (MB-ME128GA/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWZWYVP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_..dNBbQ9AWBT5

For your budget and requirements the Acer Aspire E 15 E5-575G-57D4 is your best bet. It has the dedicated GPU, i5 processor and a solid 256 GB SSD. The battery life is much higher than the 5 hrs that you wanted. The build quality is very good and this laptop provides great value for its price

• Display: 15.6-Inches Full HD Notebook 1920 x 1080
  
• Processor: i5-7200U
  
• RAM: 8GB DDR4 SDRAM
  
• Storage: 256GB SSD (HDD can be added)
  
• Graphics: NVIDIA GeForce 940MX with 2GB of GDDR5
  
• Battery life: 8 hrs+
  
• Weight: 5.27 lbs
  

>The Raspberry Pi Starter Kit features a 3 Model B, 8GB NOOBS SD card, a case, 2.5A multi-region power supply, HDMI cable, optical mouse and keyboard, and a copy of Adventures in Raspberry Pi Foundation Edition.

>You Can Now Connect a Camera to Raspberry Pi Zero
Initially available online in the UK.., the £99 ($132) collection will roll out to the rest of the world over the coming weeks.


That is an approx 50% increase to the deals I've seen around. You only really need the raspberry pi, an sd card, and a 5v 2.5a power cord.

Most people already have HDMI cables, a mouse/keyboard. A case is nice but my media center pi just hangs out with it's components out, all naked on the media center table. It doesn't need no stinkin case.


Here's the Amazon kit @ 74.99


Adafruit throws in some more tinkering components for 89.95


Sparkfun also has that deal at 89.95


edit: spl

In case anyone is considering this, if you know absolutely nothing about computers and want a little something to get your small child interested in technology, this can work as long as you have the cash to spare. However, it is a huge rip off otherwise. If you have any competence with computers, just get a Raspberry Pi 3 kit and plug it into your HDMI capable TV. It'll cost you a fraction of the price and have much more ability to grow with the child.

This is the type of stuff that Raspberry Pi was invented for. It's a low cost, small (credit card sized) PC that runs a distribution of Linux. Something like that is perfect if you're learning Java and don't already have a PC.

https://www.raspberrypi.org/

You can get a starter kit with the Pi, case, SD card, and power supply for like $70 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/

Only other thing you'd need is monitor, mouse & keyboard. I have a few of these, they're pretty good, and would be more than enough for learning on.

Ubiquiti is your friend. Assuming you have line of sight, a pair of Nanobeam AC units are exactly what you need.

You need a site to site link like that because if you just 'boost the signal', even with a very powerful base station, their mobile devices won't be able to reach back to your very powerful base station. So you put a Nanobeam on your house, another Nanobeam on theirs, and plug their Nanobeam into an access point like the UAP-AC-Lite.

The discounts are not huge, but both laptops already offered great value for money so the small discounts is just a big added bonus, I will add them as they come if more deals come around

300~400 range Acer Aspire E 15.

• Intel HD Graphics 620 is the best iGPU you can find for this budget which makes the laptop the best option for light gaming on a very tight budget.
  
  
• Full HD (TN) 15.6 screen, which is very rare for this budget range and great for watching movies/videos.
  
  
• Good upgrades available, can go to 16 GB of ram, and with a little more work than usual you can even fit a SSD on it.
  
  
• USB type C which is another rare thing to find on this budget.
  
  I thought I would give you a little more in depth review, so here it goes.
  
  
• Battery life is from 7 to 10 hours of normal non gaming usage.
  
• Backlit keyboard only comes on when you touch the buttons to save battery, it is quite.
  
• Easily upgradeable, we recommend you add 4GB stick and a SSD if you have the budget for it and it would turn into a perfect laptop (more so than it already was).
  
• Minimal bloat-ware, speakers are above average like what you would expect from a laptop, Trackpad doesn't have separate buttons, but they work well, the outer body has a matte finish to it which makes it feel really good even though it is all plastic and doesn't attract fingerprints easily).
  
  500~550 The Acer Aspire E 15 Not the same model.
  
  
• NVIDIA 940MX which is one of the best for this range but still not great for newer games Benchmark(use the same website to check the benchmarks of the other GPU from the right hand list).
  
  
• 8GB DDR4, 256GB SSD both are somewhat standards in 600 range so finding them on 500~ range is somewhat a catch.
  
  
• Advertised battery life of up to 12-hours, Backlit Keyboard.
  
  Here is a little in depth review of it :
  
  
• Same with the cheaper Acer, it is made from plastic, but it feels sturdy, screen comes with anti glare finish so it will work well outside.
  
  
• Battery life is great about 5-8 hours of general usage.
  
• Backlit keyboard, quite and comfortable, Trackpad have been getting some mixed reviews, I think it is a software issue, or maybe it is because some people are not used to trackpads.
  
  
• Speakers are good, above average for laptops in this range, the gaming performance is also above average since it is only 940MX but it the best for the budget.
  
  
• Very thin, very quiet (can barely hear the fans), It has room for more ram as well as more SSD, Fingerprint magnet.
  

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_a137BbTQN6JV7

First thing you need to ask is when did you buy your switch? If it’s June of this year or after it’s probably got a hardware patch and you can’t hack it. You can check here by serial number.

If your switch is exploitable then go on amazon and get yourself an sd card (may want bigger storage depending on how many games you’ll want) and a jig.
Alternatively, you could get an SX Pro, but unless you don’t mind spending extra money, it’s kind of overpriced and everything you need to do without it is pretty cheap and easy.

It’s easiest to let your switch format your sd card to exFat, but DON’T update to 6.2 FW yet. It’s cracked but CFW hasn’t been updated yet. set up 90DNS.This is so you can use internet apps like YouTube and even play some games online later on non-Nintendo servers without worrying about Nintendo detecting your mods. Also, FYI the switch lan play works on OFW and banned switches as well.

Then backup your clean NAND using hekate
VERY IMPORTANT you do this BEFORE you load any CFW or autoRCM for the first time. The only way you’ll ever be able to go back online to eShop and play online on official Nintendo servers is to restore your clean NAND backup (removing CFW). Also keep in mind your fuse count will need to be the same when restoring this so try not to update your FW (even using offline methods) unless you do it without burning fuses.

Then follow instructions here to setup ReiNX (CFW) and a few other important programs and settings you’ll need.

Then go get Smash and have fun!

The guide is for a Raspberry Pi, which you can connect to from a windows machine, yes.

Is this a price error?
Nevermind, same price on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDXC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-128G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q57S62

TIL I have the same router as Linus Torvalds


ASUS RT-N66U

The wireless router supplied by Buckeye is junk. What I did was get the modem without wireless and bought the modem below.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006QB1RPY/ref=dp_cerb_1

I just ordered a Surfboard 6121 and its a really great modem. Pair it with an ASUS router like this and you have a wonderful combination. The range is extremely far, you can customize a lot of settings and you don't have to pay the monthly price. Comcast was charging me $8 a month for my modem, so after 6 months ill have paid for it already (picked mine up on sale).

So this is a good question. For my movement and abilities, I use this:
Logitech G13
My mouse is a Razer Naga Epic.

Both were basically intended to play WoW.
I'm left handed. I used to use my left hand for mouse and right hand for movement (using the numpad). I've been a console guy for the last 10 years or so, but when my son started playing PC games, I switched to right hand so we didn't have to mess with the bindings as often. It was WoW, so it wasn't a big deal. It's been a little more tricky in OW, but not so much that I've considered switching back to lefty.

Anyway, you are correct that I'm using a stick for my movement, but I'm using a mouse for aiming. It's set at 1600 dpi and 3.1 in-game sensitivity. There's no acceleration enabled and the windows setting is at 6. It gets me a 360 in about 25.5 cm which is about the width of my mousepad. I actually lowered the sensitivity in the last week to try and increase my overall accuracy. I think you are probably correct that I don't have much "snap" but part of that is that I have been consciously trying to avoid the sporadic, jerky movements I was getting at higher sensitivities.

My intent was to work on accuracy with the lower sensitivity and then increase it as time passed to allow more rapid target acquisition. Think I should try something else?

woot ordering, how does this one look? ty for input everyone

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE250BW/dp/B00E3W1726/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1415202913&sr=1-1&keywords=ssd

I just tested on Amazon.ca and prices for the same products are about the same. Without mention of a rebate/sale.

32GB= 15$CAN
200GB= 139,99CAN

consistent with the USD to CAD exchange rate of 1,36CAD for 1USD.

Here is a thing that a lot of people seem to be missing out. Your CPU doesn't support higher speed RAM sticks. It supports dual channel at 2667MHz MAX. So you need a CPU that can support higher speed, because AMD LOOOOOOOOOVES RAM. Your motherboard supports up to 3200 MHz OC. The second thing is that you need two exactly matching sticks in order to get the most of your dual channel.

So my suggestion if you are on a budget (because everything else you have seems good) is to do this:

1. Change your CPU to a Ryzen 5 2600 (or 2600X) - there are a lot of great deals right now ( https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B07B41WS48 ). This CPU supports up to 3000MHz dual channel RAM and has better processing power than the one you have.
   
2. Buy the exact same 8GB or 16GB RAM stick you already have - make sure they are exactly the same. Even though 32GB is going to be overkill at least you will get the most of your dual channel. IF you can't find anything then get a 2x8GB or 2x16GB kit @ 3000MHz.
   
3. Sell the CPU and the left-over ram stick to get some money back.
   
   N.B. Do not add the extra RAM into your matching kit on the board. You will jeopardise dual channel.
   
   Good luck and don't forget to update your drivers

Finding a mix of battery life, portability, and a powerful graphics card may be a bit difficult in your price range. Games like DOOM and PUBG are fairly demanding and will require a decent dGPU to run smoothly.


I wouldn't really suggest any of your three choices there. If anything, the non-refurbished Acer Helios 300 would be a significantly better choice - especially if you have Amazon Prime (it reduces the price to $900). With a GTX 1060 it'd be easily powerful enough for your needs, has a decent build quality, and an okay battery life. However, it is a bit on the bulky side at 5.6 pounds.

An even better choice may be the Lenovo Legion Y530. It's not quite as powerful but it's still easily good enough for the games you've listed. It's also a bit lighter at 5.0 lbs, has a bit more sleek of a design, and an okay build quality. Unfortunately the battery life on it is below average at just 3-5 hours.

If you want more options to compare check out my recommendation guide. Also feel free to comment if you have any questions, best of luck!

I would strongly recommend focusing on refurbished laptops. Separately, you're either going to be looking at "gaming laptops"
or "professional mobile workstations." You want at least 4 cores (8 total threads aka virtual cores) for the CPU. Almost all current CPUs have 2xcores = threads/virtual cores, at the moment. It's nice. (Edit for clarity-- the # of cores advertised is usually recognized as 2x as many cores by the operating system and related software. This is "cores" vs "threads" in advertising and formal specs) You'll probably want Intel gen 8 or 9 or ryzen 5. If your applications are heavy on CPU, the more cores/virtual cores, the better. More cores can cut rendering time down significantly.

Regarding CPUs: there is a base clock value, and a boost clock value.

Example for Intel here

Example for AMD here

Google the specific processor. They boost automatically, on demand. They are advertised, however, with base clock (unless it specifically mentions "boost"/"turbo" next to the number). Boost is generally and reliably consistent, so it's safe to choose a CPU if the boost frequency meets the softwares' suggested/recommended CPU specs/speed. I pretty much guarantee your focus will be on core count, not speed, as the machines you're looking at have ample CPU speed across the board.

Regarding GPUs, this is what will likely break your budget. A quick search for "best laptop for Oculus Rift 2019" (strong emphasis on quick) came up with this one as the only under $1k before tax. That's a decent little machine. I'd be worried that it'd overheat, and that's something you should consider-- either cooling options (raise it off the desk/surface, fan blowing under, or similar) or getting an actual PC with better fans. Gaming laptops slow down due to heat when they're doing things [read:VR], and in my experience, their overall life/viability is reduced on the whole.

Further, re:GPUs:

You do not want "embedded" or "on board" graphics. You need a dedicated GPU (with the physical connections needed for the VR headset).

depending on what you're rendering, the GB value on the GPU itself matters. If your virtualized and/or rendered scene has high detail textures (think about an actual 4k image repeated 16x to cover a large wall in your VR scene), those 4/6/8GB of memory on the GPU itself will be needed to store that texture data. Higher the GB value on the dedicated card, the more texture detail your VR space will be able to handle.

If you have questions about certain CPUs or GPUs as you're looking at these things, just go to youtube and check for that component and how they work with VR. Shoot-- check for reviews for that specific component for any ofd the specific applications you're using. There's tons of reviews/content on that sort of things across the board. Separately, newegg, frys, microcenter, amazon-- focusing on refurbished, I believe, is your best bet. GL Last edit-- you'll be fine with 16GB RAM on any of the related machines.

That is $700 for an i5, 8gb of ram, and no ssd. Seems like a shit deal to me. Definitely not worth $1000.
EDIT: this is at least what you should expect from a $1000 pc https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Predator-Overclockable-Aeroblade-PH315-51-78NP/dp/B07CTHLX8C/ref=mp_s_a_1_115?keywords=gaming+laptop&qid=1558587218&s=gateway&sr=8-115

The 2.5" is also going for the same price.

Price History

• AMD Ryzen 5 2600 Processor with Wraith Stealth Cooler YD2600BBAFBOX   ^PureLink
  ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.7/5 from 597 valid reviews
  CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
  
  _
  Don't Rook too long, these prices might not last.
  ^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fe3ph9e%2Fcpu_amd_ryzen_5_260015499%2Ff94b98q%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**

Looks like I am going to go with the following:

• AMD Ryzen 5 2600 Processor with Wraith Stealth Cooler - YD2600BBAFBOX
  
• Patriot Memory VIPER 4 Series 3000MHz (PC4 24000) 8GB Dual Channel DDR4 Kit PV48G300C6K
  
• MSI B450-A Gaming Plus AM4 ATX Motherboard. Found a used new in box for $69 shipped.
  
  Using his r9 290, case, PSU, and hard drives, this should be a nice little upgrade for him.
  
  ​
  
  ​

Looks like Amazon just matched Walmart's price for those who prefer to order there: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B41WS48

The new is still $900 for prime people


https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Predator-Overclockable-Aeroblade-PH315-51-78NP/dp/B07CTHLX8C

This or this?

It looks like amazon matched (well, beat by a penny). Slightly different mfr#: B&H # SAMZN6E1T0BW MFR # MZ-N6E1T0BW, amazon #MZ-76E1T0B/AM.

I am on the lookout for a damn fine deal on a quality 2TB SSD.

I'm not saying to give up. Buy this:
https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY

You get a larger SD card, the best Raspberry Pi on the market. It takes maybe 3 minutes to assemble. Comes with a USB microSD card reader so you can load RetroPie. The only thing missing would be a controller or keyboard.

Get yourself this kit

and put Retropie on it

I had plans to buy the Mini NES for my dad's birthday but when i showed him the list he was bummed at how many games we used to own that wasn't on there so it made me look for an alternative, this is probably one of the best decisions i've ever made, this thing kicks ass the only thing it fails to run well that i've tested so far is N64 where there are stuttering issues and awful fps drops but for anything pre-N64 it works like a charm

Scroll at the bottom to see a list of supported systems

RetroPie is a retro gaming system for systems like SNES, Atari, N64, Genesis, Game boy, & etc.
. Most people install it on a Raspberry Pi. It's glorious.

Here's all you need to get started. You may want to get a wireless keyboard and a game controller, too.

If you really want to have a high quality, robust solution then ditch the consumer grade stuff entirely. What I (and many others) would suggest is something like using the Ubiquiti Edgerouter Lite as your router. Then you run Ethernet to one (or more, if your house is big enough) Ubiquiti Unifi Access Point to provide wifi. These are rock solid, business class products for a great price. And the best part is if you need more coverage, you just plug in another Unifi access point and put it where you want.

As for a modem, most people on here would recommend the Motorola line, like the SB6141 or the SB6183, but those are dependent on being on your ISP's approved modem list (though most major American ISPs approve of these particular modems).

no he doesnt. its all about how you set up your network. i have a linksys EA3500 handling 10 devices. i have a crap router behind it handling my checkpoints farm for that IP(10 devices). i have a netgear something handling 15 devices on a different IP. the key is to separate the channels. i run mine on 1, 6 and 11. no overlap for the 3 programs i run (sb, perk and checkpoints).

however, if you are going to upgrade, may as well as upgrade to something commercial that will handle the traffic you're throwing at it:

use this as your router (this is what im about to upgrade too)

use this as your access point for your wifi devices. add more as needed

$300 routers are trash compared to something under 150 thats commercial-grade.

I'd go with Ubiquiti products. Something like a Edgeroute X SFP and a Unifi AC lite.

I've got the slightly older Unifi AP and it's bulletproof. And with the X SFP you won't need the power injector for the AC lite. I setup the AC lite for a friend and it's also very solid, easy to use product.

Check out /r/Ubiquiti

Don’t get that one. It’s the lowest end 144Hz monitor and at $196 it’s too expensive relative to other 144Hz which are much better. $15 more but way, way better


Acer Gaming Monitor 24" XFA240 bmjdpr 1920 x 1080 144Hz Refresh Rate 1ms Response Time AMD FREESYNC Technology with Height, Pivot, Swivel & Tilt (Display Port, HDMI/MHL, & DVI Port) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYHZ6R6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zjA-AbH473SQ1

Hey, don't get either. Get the non Nintendo branded official sandisk https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-128GB-microSDXC-Memory-Adapter/dp/B073JYC4XM/

It's not only cheaper than both but you can go even higher in size, up to 400gb (you will probably want this eventually). It's exactly the same as the Nintendo but without the Nintendo brand I believe. I would get it over the Samsung. It's what I have and is perfect for the Switch.

When you get it, before you start using it, go to the format options on your Switch settings and make sure you format it. This will ensure it works correctly

>I’m currently using the original memory card that came with the Switch but i’m trying to upgrade for the upcoming games.

Was this with a bundle or something? The Switch doesn't normally come with a memory card.

Edit:

You mean this card? Considering that the same card without branding is $12 cheaper...

Honestly, if you can wait a couple weeks, I'd wait for Black Friday to get a 200+ GB card for cheap.

Desk is made up of the following from IKEA:

GERTON table top

ODDVALD trestle

ALEX Drawer Unit

Monitors are each the Acer G257HU

Keyboard is a Razer BW Ultimate Chroma

Mouse is a Razer Mamba

It's a pretty normal price on Amazon. From its price history, it didn't stay at 90$ for long.

Amazon Smile link

Definitely a Screen Protector

A Travelling Case would be nice.

I also added Dr Scholls Moleskin to the front of my dock to reduce the risk of scratching the screen protector. (Two small strips on the parts inside the dock that are raised.)

A Memory Card also helps for the digital only games.

What color Switch did you get? I got the grey switch then bought a pair of Red Joycons and another pair of Blue Joycons. So in total I have a grey, red, and blue L Joycon and a grey, red, and blue R Joycon.

If you got the grey switch and then buy the [two color Joycon packs] (https://www.amazon.com/Nintendo-Switch-Joy-Con-Neon-Neon-Blue/dp/B01N6QJ58Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493753597&sr=8-2&keywords=blue+joycons) then you won't be able to get one of each color for L/R without over paying. This is because the [two color Joycon packs] (https://www.amazon.com/Nintendo-Switch-Joy-Con-Neon-Neon-Blue/dp/B01N6QJ58Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493753597&sr=8-2&keywords=blue+joycons) are always Red L and Blue R.

If you bought a neon switch, then buy the [two color Joycon pack] (https://www.amazon.com/Nintendo-Switch-Joy-Con-Neon-Neon-Blue/dp/B01N6QJ58Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493753597&sr=8-2&keywords=blue+joycons) and a pair of Grey Joycons for all combinations.

Also, don't buy Joycons on Amazon, they are stupid expensive right now.

I don't have a pro controller yet, but people seem to love it.

Games:

Zelda = Must Buy

Mario Kart 8 Deluxe = Must Buy

1-2 Switch = Great for parties/friends

Snipperclips = Great for people who don't play games often (girlfriends/parents/kids). Secret here is to not explain how to play/what to do and let them have fun and try to figure out the puzzles on their own. Act like a support character and you'll have a blast watching them.

Binding of Isaac = I love this game, but put countless hours on the PC version. Mature themes

Super Bomberman R = Classic mode with easy CPUs is fun for roommates. I haven't played through the adventure mode yet.

Wonderboy = Cute/Fun side scroller.

Has Been Heroes = I don't have this yet, apparently very difficult.


Other notes:

I started collecting amiibos after getting a switch (Be very careful, it's easy to get addicted and drop a ton of money here).

I got a Joycon charging dock since the only way to charge extra pairs of Joycons without the Joycon charging dockis to rotate them in and out of the switch while it charges/docked.

Let me know if you have any other questions!

PS I love the Switch so much. It's definitely my favorite console ever.

1. Best USB Hub

Inateck 3 Ports USB 3.0 Hub and RJ45 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Hub

2. Best Mouse

Logitech MX Anywhere 2 Wireless Mobile Mouse

3. Best MicroSD

SanDisk Ultra 128GB microSDXC UHS-I Card

4. Best Value Sleeve

AmazonBasics 11.6-Inch Laptop Sleeve

Why don't you get the Sandisk Micro SD card of the same capacity?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010Q57S62/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm sure it works fine?

Edit: Yeah as one of the comments pointed out , it is cheaper too.

If you want a affordable gigabit setup with Ubiquiti just run this setup.

• USG $110
  
• Unifi AP AC Lite $80
  
• TP-Link 8 Port Unmanaged Switch $25
  
• 1000' cat 5e $85
  
• 24 port patch panel $19
  
  If you don't have a gigabit connection you can swap out the USG for an ER-X which will knock off $50 but if you have the $50 to spend I would suggest staying with the USG so all your managed products are on the Unifi admin interface. You can also save some money by going with 500' of cat 5e if you don't need the full 1k foot spool.

If you can't get the wifi going, powerline adapters may be a great alternative for you to provide a consistent and reliable network connection to your PS4 as long as you have outlets available near both the router and PS4.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA2010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=pd_tcs_subst_e_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=021B2W1R5TGXTHZNPQVR

1. Get the RAM from OWC
   
   
2. For the SSD, get a samsung 840 EVO. They are one of the best deals around. http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-EVO-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7TE250BW/dp/B00E3W1726/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405941311&sr=8-1&keywords=samsung+840+EVO (250GB for $140)
   
   
3. you need to install OS X on the new drive. Before changing anything, be sure to download a copy of OS X, and make a bootable flash drive. Instructions here: http://www.macworld.com/article/2056561/how-to-make-a-bootable-mavericks-install-drive.html
   
   
4. Caveats: You'll need to enable TRIM on the SSD. This is easy. Use TRIM Enabler (Free) http://www.cindori.org/software/trimenabler/
   
   
5. Step By Step: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VnksSnLAibc
   
   
6. Replacement batteries can be bought at the Apple store.

Ah. And a good question none the less. No it doesn't. Which I didn't even know about. So I actually just went ahead and cancelled my eBay order and ordered it on Amazon for $109.99 and got far cry 4, which steam has listed at $59.99 all for $109.99 with free shipping.

The far cry 4 deal only applies to Samsung 840 EVO 250 GB and above I believe. After ctrl + f for far cry, it comes up on specials and promotions for the 250 but not the smaller one.

Link for those who are lazy: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-250GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE250BW/dp/B00E3W1726/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417413707&sr=8-1&keywords=samsung+evo+840

The Samsung 840 EVO provides good capacity, reliability and speed for the money. At $140 for 256GB of storage, it also fits into your budget while supporting SATA III.

I do, it’s cheaper in the long run. Bought mine in 2014, still works great paid between 100-150 but can’t remember.

This is the model I bought in 2014.

Is he a stickler for super high quality audio?

If you're not going for the absolute best, but want something that sounds pretty damn good at a relatively reasonable price, take a look at this

I actually use this on my pc for movies and gaming and even basic music production and I love them.

[Have these, can recommend]
(https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-ProMedia-Certified-Computer-Speaker/dp/B000062VUO)

They're loud, boomy, and sound really wonderful.

I had also considered these

I don't use a sound card, just the integrated one on my motherboard, it does the job fine

You can get something like the Logitech G13 and use the joystick with your thumb for movement.

Logitech's offering is slightly less expensive.

Otherwise, remapping a cheap numpad may be your best option.

Putting the word "gaming" in front of something doesn't make it better. In fact, going out and looking for "gaming speakers" almost insures you are going to get one of the worst products at the price point.

There are no such things as "gaming speakers". They're just speakers.

I haven't looks at 2.1 setups for quite a while, but the Klipsch Pro Media 2.1's have always been relatively well reviewed for the price. Like I said though, I haven't looked at stuff for a while so there may be better deals out there now.

Those systems are garbage. Save up for this Klipsh 2.1 or buy it used. It will blow the ones you listed out of the water and is suited for games/hometheater or music. It's double your budget but it's 10 times the system.

You could get him a really cool gaming keypad. Something meant for mmo's like the logitech g13 or the Razer Tartarus

Razer also has a more expensive one called the orbweaver

You could also look into getting something like a Logitech G13 or Razer Tartarus. They've got fully programmable buttons and a D-pad/Joystick. Might help out in your case.

I own one of these and use it in conjunction with my G13. Never looked back.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

I use one of these hubs in my ITX build (more for cable management than necessity). It uses SATA power which is handy.

You can definitely stick with the Fractal series. I did because I couldn't have a loud, unsightly machine setup anywhere in my home. I have my main system w/ 10 Drives + 2 SSDs + 3 NVME drives in an R6. That has a DAS connected with 19 drives inside an R5; 8 stock bays + 3 in 2x5.25 bay adapter + extra 3 drive cage + extra 5 drive cage.

As you are in Europe, you might not even have to pay crazy shipping charges to buy spare drive cages from https://www.fractal-design-shop.de/Define-R5_1. In the US I had to source the extra drive cages from r/hardwareswap but that proved to be easier than I expected. Here is a pic I took before I added the 2nd 5-bay drive cage: https://imgur.com/a/TWL8IB1

Edit: Request for more info...

I have not done a build log as I am not yet "finished" with the build, but it looks like there is sufficient demand for parts info so here it goes:

I have an R6 for my main NAS server loaded with the motherboard, 10 3.5 drives and one SSD. The R5 has two extra drive cages (3 + 5) as well a 2x5.25-to-3x3.5 bay adapter.

The expansion cards I use are:

• 1x LSI 9210-8i with SAS to SATA cables for 8 of the 10 internal drives in the R6. The other 2 + SSD use SATA ports on the motherboard.
  
  
• 1x LSI-9207-8e connected via 8088 cables to two HP SAS expanders powered in the R6 by riser cards which connect to the drives with the same SAS to SATA cables as above.
  
  Additional parts I used:
  
  
• An SFX PSU is important so you can fix the extra drive cages. Don't skimp on this one. You don't need a ton of Watts (I'm using a 600W Gold) but you need quality, you are hooking up thousands of dollars of drives to it!
  
  
• Power splitters: One & Two
  
  
• Power switch to turn on the DAS PSU and reset it any time you need to take the NAS offline (DAS always must be powered on first)
  
• Fan controller for powering fans in the DAS
  
  More inspiration can be found here: https://www.serverbuilds.net/16-bay-das

My picks...

Micro SD: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q57S62/

Case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MS7AI9G/

These are for Micro SD cards, note that it has a hindge in the left so there should be 2 spots under it. With this card holder setup + the Switch itself one could have:

5 x 128 GB Micro SD Cards for a total of 640 GB for 200 Dollars.

or

5x 200 GB Micro SD card for a total of 1000 GB for 325 dollars.


or

Any combination of Micro SD cards that meet your specific storage demands.

Note: 128 GB is the top capacity validated according to rumors. however like in the 3ds the Switch likely supports bigger SD cards. Also the prices of flash media are going down so this will be cheaper in the future. Furthermore I didn't include 256 GB Micro SD cards because I didn't find any with a reasonable price.

And Amazon.

Edit: aaaaaaaaand it's gone

It's the same price on Amazon too, though.

I've been going overboard with accessories. Here's what I picked up so far:

Glass screen protector - Just in case.

128GB microSD card - I rarely buy physical games

Pro Controller - I love it. So comfortable.

PowerA Hybrid Case - I basically use this as a stand for my Switch when I'm on the go.

JDeal portable dock - It works. Make sure to follow the instructions. Works with my Nexus5x 5v 3A portable charger.

[Retractable HDMI cable] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019J96PSI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Hestia case - The Switch with the PowerA Hybrid Case, portable dock, portable USB-C charger, and retractable HDMI cable all fit in this.

USB 3.0 LAN Adapter - Faster speeds when on the official dock.


Gooseneck tablet holder - Ultimate comfort. Play while in bed.

Magic NS Wireless Adapter - I had originally bought this so I could use my PS4 controller. This was before I picked up the Pro Controller. It works. There was a recent firmware update that gives gyro support for PS4 controllers and it works well with Splatoon 2.

On the way:


Mumba case - For better comfort/protection while playing in handheld mode.

https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDXC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-128G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q57S62/ref=sr_1_10?m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&s=warehouse-deals&ie=UTF8&qid=1469811987&sr=1-10


128 GB for 25 bucks! What a time to be alive!!!!

dont buy it off ebay, buy direct from a store or amazon, sandisk are best and then samsung. also walmart or best buy wil match amazon. heres what i bought
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDXC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-128G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q57S62/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491399875&sr=8-1&keywords=128gb+micro

Currently right now on Amazon 128GB card for $32.

No ref code: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010Q57S62

https://www.amazon.com/Acer-G257HU-smidpx-25-Inch-Widescreen/dp/B00QS0AKVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536434210&sr=8-1&keywords=Acer+1440p

I'd rather take a 25" with IPS than a 27" with TN

But then amazon gets the extra. Instead go to this link and donate to a charity:

http://smile.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-SDSDQUAN-200G-G4A/dp/B00V62XBQQ/

Nand technology is very different from how a hdd operates. The hdd actually houses mechanical parts and a spinning disk. If you look how ssd hdd is half the size of a standard hdd. It also uses nand technology. The person who created that meme obviously never came across this .

Edit: to further answer your question, the nand cells they store data on are stacked on each other in a tiny space and the rest of the card is the interface to interact with peripherals. Not only are they shrinking in size, but the read/write speeds are increasing.

WASD or ESDF does not make much difference when you're used to it.

Also, since you're using them as controls and not typing letters, the touch-typist habits are not relevant.

Furthermore, many gamers are not using a full keyboard anymore...

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE/

This is going to get downvoted because of the A word, but, the Apple Airport Extreme is an extremely capable and stable wireless router.

http://www.amazon.com/AirPort-Extreme-802-11n-5th-Generation/dp/B0057AVXJA

The 5th generation version is still fine. Go up to $200 and you can get the current version, which is AC capable, etc.

If you have game consoles, which like uPnP, be advised the Apple does not offer uPnP.

If you have game consoles:

http://www.amazon.com/RT-AC66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1750-Gigabit-Router/dp/B008ABOJKS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376407132&sr=1-1&keywords=asus+ac66u

or

http://www.amazon.com/RT-N66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-N900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B006QB1RPY/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376407149&sr=1-2&keywords=asus+ac66u

This:

http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-popular

The Xbox adapter definitely wouldn't work. A generic USB bluetooth dongle would probably be fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Bluetooth-Adapter-Raspberry-Compatible/dp/B009ZIILLI/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1520616913&sr=1-3&keywords=plugable+bluetooth

https://www.reddit.com/r/pcgamingtechsupport/comments/533gid/connecting_ds3_to_pc_using_scp_and_bluetooth_40/

At a combined 2880 x 1440, the two displays actually have 1.6 times the resolution of the standard Rift and Vive (‎2160 x 1200). It's a huge difference, like a generational advantage, comparable to jumping from an old Oculus Dev Kit to the current model. I should mention that despite the much higher resolution, the screen door effect is still there (which means you can still see a raster of pixels in front of your eyes), however, it is now possible to ignore it after a few minutes of playing. With these headsets, you can make out objects in the distance more easily, texture detail increases, text becomes readable, instruments in virtual cockpits are now actually useful (eliminating the need for immersion-breaking HUDs), there is less flickering. Even if your PC can't handle the higher resolution, an upscaled image will still look better, because the screen door effect is less pronounced. Recently, there have been performance improvements and changes to the reprojection algorithm, which have reduced hardware requirements by quite a significant margin. It's actually possible to use these headsets with integrated graphics for less demanding applications like 3D video, virtual tourism apps that mostly rely on 3D photos and simple games.

With the Samsung model, you get the same display resolution and colors (thanks to OLED) as the expensive Vive Pro (2880 x 1600), but better lenses.

Another advantage that Windows MR headsets like the Lenovo Explorer and Samsung HMD have is that the setup is incredibly simple. There are no external sensors, laser projectors, adapters, breakout boxes, power supplies, etc. There's just a single cable with USB 3.0 and HDMI at the end. Setup time at a new location is at most two minutes for full roomscale, just a few seconds for just standing or seated VR. This means that MR headsets are truly portable and can be set up anywhere. All you need is a well lit room. That's why I bought my Lenovo Explorer.

There is one disadvantage to these headsets: The controllers (which need a compatible bluetooth adapter - Microsoft recommends this one, but others can work as well) and their tracking are not as good as those of the Rift and Vive. Head and positional tracking through the built in cameras and sensors is virtually flawless, you can walk aroud in VR just like with the Vive (which is great), but the controllers have to be in front of you at all times in order to be accurately tracked, since they also rely on the cameras used for positional tracking. This isn't a huge issue however, since the camera's field of view is larger than the user's and since in most games, you will be interacting with things that are in front of you. Fast movement outside of the camera's view is still tracked well enough through sensors built into the controllers (like with the Wii), like grabbing a shield from behind your back or swinging a sword around. What can not be denied however is that ergonomically, both Vive and Rift have far better controller shapes. It's not bad though, it's just that this is the one aspect where it becomes obvious why these headsets are less expensive than Rift and Vive.

One great (and in my eyes essential) aspect about Windows MR headsets is that there is almost full compatibility with HTC Vive and Oculus Rift games, via two free tools: Windows Mixed Reality SteamVR (from Microsoft themselves) and ReVive. With the latest Windows update, rumble support has finally been added, which was the only missing feature. Launch just the first tool in order to play games designed for Vive, run the latter for Oculus Rift titles. The number of games with native MR support is also steadily increasing. Here's a regularly updated list of compatible titles:

/r/WindowsMR/comments/7c97lm/steam_games_status/

There is a small selection of VR games and applications on the Windows Store, but the vast majority can be found elsewhere as well, mostly on Steam. One noteworthy exception is HoloTour from Microsoft, which is a fantastic virtual tourism application, the perfect complement to the astonishing Google Earth VR. Definitely check both out!

I hope this helps. Feel free to ask if you have any more questions.

Make sure you have a good bluetooth dongle in the line of sight of the headset. This was recommended from Microsoft: (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Secondly, make sure you have good overhead lighting. Natural lighting doesn't work that well.

Third, if you can, upgrade to the insider version of windows. Things are running much more smoothly on this.

Fourth, see: https://www.windowscentral.com/how-enable-windows-mixed-reality-joysticks-any-steamvr-game

if you are living at home and/or have access to your router, consider powerline adapters instead. the jist is they let you run a wired signal over your house's power grid, rather than running a huge cable through your house.

there's a few rules about using them, but for 90% of people they work great.

if you're in a dorm or something and cant actually get to the router, than u just want a cheap pci AC adaper, something like this

The biggest WTF for me concerning the Ursa is the use of those ridiculously expensive CFast cards. With that 17 pound behemoth of a camera, they couldn't figure out a way to squeeze in an SSD slot?

This 250 GB SSD's dimensions are:

> Product Dimensions: 3.9 x 0.3 x 2.8 inches ; 1.9 ounces

That's roughly the size and weight of a deck of playing cards. That's nothing. It's $129.

The price for a 256 GB Cfast card? $1,414.55. Four of those memory cards is as expensive as the damn camera!

• Get an SSD, ASAP. Single best upgrade you can make to ANY PC - 250GB Samsung 840 Evo is $75 on Amazon, the 850 Evo is $90. If you want 500GB, you'll pay about $150 for the 850 EVO, 840 EVO doesn't have the 500GB available (Amazon shows it at $272 for a 500GB?! I think it's no longer produced)
  
  
• Max out your RAM. Your MoBo can support 32GB of RAM -- 16GB should do you plenty of good. $67 on NewEgg
  
  
• So far that's only $142 of your $350. That leaves you with $208 for a nice GPU. I have a GeForce GTX 750Ti that does great, and I'm not a gamer at all, so I really only bought it in case I decide to game later on (Dark Souls 3 will apparently run perfectly on my machine, which makes me very happy). You can get a GTX 950 or 960 under that price limit, both are mid to high tier graphics cards (980 is the highest in the series, atm [correct me if I'm wrong I don't know shit about gaming GPU's])
  
  
• If you don't want to spend $200 on a GPU, or if you can up your budget to $400, you can get both a really nice GPU and a better motherboard that supports DDR4 RAM, which of course increases the cost of the RAM, but it's all about future proofing.
  
  TL;DR: For the amount of your budget, buy the SSD and RAM I recommended. Either spend $200 on a GPU or spend $150 on a mid-tier GPU, up your budget to $400 and get a better MoBo for future upgrades. Good luck!
  
  Edit -- I just saw you have an AMD CPU. I've heard that nVidia & Intel work better together, and AMD works best with the other cards. Adjust accordingly.

I'd definitely recommend making a post on /r/BuildAPC. The build looks nice but I'd definitely recommend getting at least a 1TB HDD for about $50. Liquid CPU cooling is overkill for you since the CPU you chose can't be overclocked. A simple $20 cooler will keep it sub 60C for most workloads.

Also, I'd pay an extra $10 for this Samsung 840 250GB SSD instead. Speeds ar emuch better, plus it comes with a download code for Far Cry 4.

I'm building a new high end pc from the ground up. Should I be taking advantage of any of these sales? I feel like the mouse and power supply are automatic purchases but I'm a newbie so I wanted to see if I can get any help here first. Sorry if this is filling up the discussion post.

SSD

I read that the crucial's aren't good because once you reach 75% capacity it dramatically slows your pc down? Also, don't know if external SSDs are recommended but should I bite on that SanDisk?

Samsung 1TB 860 EVO

Crucial P1 1TB m.2 SSD

SanDisk 1TB Portable External SSD

Power Supply

Corsair RM850x, 850 Watt Gold Certified Fully Modular Power Supply

Cooler

I don't even know if I will need a coouler, and if I want to go liquid cooling route, and I don't care about RGB, but for a high end pc I'm assuming I should buy?


Corsair H115i RGB Platinum AIO Liquid CPU Cooler

Mouse

This seems like the best deal on a mouse no?

Logitech® MX Master 2S Wireless Mouse

RAM

Was actually looking for 32GB RAM, should I pass since if I go AMD mobo route, having to use more than 2 will cause a slowdown right?

Ballistix Elite 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR4 3600 MT/s

i know it's sold out right now, but 850 evo 1tb refurbs have been going for about $200 on best buy lately:


not to mention 860 evo 1tb brand new is $330

> How can I speed it up?

One thing you can do is to upgrade its RAM.

Your iMac supports up to 32 GB RAM, according to this source:

• https://everymac.com/actual-maximum-mac-ram/actual-maximum-imac-ram-capacity.html
  
  The RAM you buy must match the following specification:
  
  PC3-10600 1333 MHz DDR3, 204-pin
  
  This RAM should work, for example:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/SAMSUNG-10600-SODIMM-LAPTOP-MEMORY/dp/B0067GGPXC
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-PC3-10600-SODIMM-204-Pin-Memory/dp/B008LTBIT4
  
  I suggest that you install 4 x 8 GB RAM modules, in order to use all available RAM slots. This ensures optimal distribution across the RAM modules. The RAM modules which are currently in your iMac have resale value, too.
  
  Do NOT try to put in a higher total amount than 32 GB RAM. This can lead to the iMac not recognizing the RAM at best, to kernel panics / crashes of macOS at worst.
  
  This video shows the RAM upgrade, it is very easy:
  
  
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k8Sj10wYXAI
  
  -----
  
  > Is there a way I could speed it up maybe with an external SSD that I could format as the internal storage?
  
  Yes, you can boot the iMac from an external SSD connected via Thunderbolt 2. This does hamper the SSD a bit, they reach about 300 MB/s instead of the 500 MB/s they'd have when inserted into the iMac itself. Make no mistake, though, those speeds are still going to beat the speeds of the internal HDD easily.
  
  Any of these SSDs should work:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Inch-Internal-MZ-76E1T0B-AM/dp/B078DPCY3T
  
• https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-Solid-State-SDSSDHII-1T00-G25/dp/B01N1862SW
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-512GB-V-NAND-Solid-MZ-76P512BW/dp/B07836C6YV
  
  You will need an adapter like this to connect the SSD to the Thunderbolt 2 port:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Backup-Portable-Thunderbolt-Adapter/dp/B009HQCARY
  
  Do NOT connect the SSD to the USB-A 2.0 ports. Those ports do not have sufficient transfer speeds to properly handle the SSD. Use Thunderbolt 2 only to connect the SSD.
  
  Read this article for the details:
  
  
• https://robinmonks.com/2013/10/speed-up-your-mac-with-an-external-ssd/

Or the Helios 300 with a GTX 1660TI for $600 less.

Acer Predator Helios 300 Gaming Laptop PC, 15.6" Full HD 144Hz 3ms IPS Display, Intel i7-9750H, GTX 1660 Ti 6GB, 16GB DDR4, 256GB PCIe NVMe SSD, Backlit Keyboard, PH315-52-78VL https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QXLFLXT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AtahDbV7X0A6V

Macbook: 1400
This fucking beast: 1200

Definetaly the [acer helios 300] (https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Predator-i7-8750H-Overclockable-PH315-51-78NP/dp/B07CTHLX8C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536889055&sr=1-3&keywords=helios+300&linkCode=ll1&tag=gaming0789-20&linkId=97eae9c9abb0f52ae8b1b74b1b33257b&language=en_US). 8th gen version. Very fast processor, awesome gpu, long battery life and great screen display. Nothing else compare.

A diferencia de todo los otros comentarios de acá, te recomiendo irte por un Ryzen:

• Son mas económicos que Intel
  
• Las placas madres del socket AM4 son mas económicas y tienen soporte de socket hasta el 2020 (Es decir si quieres upgradear tu proce no tienes que volver a comprar una placa madre, al menos hasta el 2020)
  
• Le sacan la cresta a Intel en relación "precio/calidad" y "precio/performance" en ambitos de workload relacionadas a creación de contenido (Como AUTOCAD, REVIT, NAVISWORK, etc.)
  
• Fuck intel y sus practicas monopólicas.
  
  
  ¿Que Ryzen comprar? Depende, en este momento hay varias ofertas porque van a sacar Zen 2 (Que es la arquitectura en la cual se basa Ryzen); por 500 lucas te recomiendo 2 opciones:
  
  
• Ryzen 5 2400G, es una APU, es decir que es un procesador con gráficos integrados, con esta opción puedes ahorrarte la tarjeta de video (Con opción de comprarte una dedicada mas adelante) y ponerle mas lucas a la RAM y un buen SSD.
  
  
• Ryzen 5 2600, lo mejor que puedes conseguir en poder de procesamiento por tus lucas, además que está en oferta. Vas a tener que desembolsar en una Tarjeta de Video eso si, y conformarte con 8GB de RAM y una SSD de 500GB maximo.
  
  
  Si te interesa cualquier de esas dos opciones te puedo armar una cotización con todas las partes (Más rato eso si, estoy redditeando trabajando)
  
  

Same amazon link without ref code here

Also, though late, this has been posted already here, but with a different ref code.

The 2600 is cheaper on amazon https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B07B41WS48

Any?
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B07B41WS48

Hey, just letting you know that you can currently get a brand new 2600 on amazon for less than your asking price.

AMD Ryzen 5 2600 Processor with Wraith Stealth Cooler - YD2600BBAFBOX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B41WS48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2-VXDbCGZGTSC

Check Acer XF250Q or Acer XFA240 or AOC G2590FX , all are on the Nvidia approved list for Gsync compatible and would be my top picks for $200-225 gaming monitor.

I'd recommend the Butterfox case instead of the licensed one, since it's more versatile, aesthetically pleasing, cheaper and fits more stuff. (i.e. ac adapter). If you want this one than make sure it's the 9 cartridge one, since that's the newest version. Also a 128 SD card class 10 will most likely go on sale this coming black friday/cyber monday.

On sale for $17.48 right now. Great deal....

SanDisk Ultra 128GB microSDXC UHS-I card with Adapter -  100MB/s U1 A1 - SDSQUAR-128G-GN6MA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eq-RCbWZGB8ZP

These are great access points for the money.

So instead of using a mesh system, you will get much better performance using WAPs instead. The most popular one here is the UAP-AC-lite. You will still need a router, so you could buy a new one, like the Edgerouter X, or if you're happy with the netgear (except for the wireless performance of course) You can keep that and just run the WAPs off of that.

This thing is pretty good, and if you already have a router it's not a very expensive addon. The caveat, it needs a cat5 connection from your router handing out DHCP addresses to work, it won't do routing on its own.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY

>Plus it all seems inefficient since I already have the LAN throughout the house.

If you already have Ethernet pulled to places all over the house, then wired Access Points is the obvious and correct answer.

Ubiquiti is the king of reliable Access Points. But switching to Ubiquiti requires a bit more knowledge than your typical wireless router / repeater system, so if you choose this, you'll have to do a bit of learning too.

For 900 sqft on two floors, you can likely get away with just one Access Point mounted on the First Floor in the Center. That would easily cover the floor, plus very likely cover the floors above and below it too. A Ubiquiti nanoHD is my go-to recommendation lately, but if you are trying to save some money, an AC-LITE is fine.

nanoHD:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Internal-1733Mbit-Ethernet/dp/B07FFNTLJD/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=nanohd&qid=1574904222&s=electronics&sr=1-4

AC-PRO:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=nanohd&qid=1574903775&s=electronics&sr=1-5

AC Lite:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_rm?ac_md=0-0-YWMgbGl0ZQ%3D%3D-ac_d_rm&keywords=ac+lite&pd_rd_i=B015PR20GY&pd_rd_r=382f4fce-b8fd-41f5-9d83-2ce30c7d4867&pd_rd_w=2JjVi&pd_rd_wg=IV1TH&pf_rd_p=e2f20af2-9651-42af-9a45-89425d5bae34&pf_rd_r=BRFTH2F9ZHRVN6T7YH6B&psc=1&qid=1574903705

Since you already have Ethernet presumably at ground level, you can also consider the Ubiquiti In-Wall units as well. These units provide you Wireless Access Points PLUS they give you two Ethernet ports at ground level. If you can get your gamer and game machines plugged into Ethernet instead of wireless, you'll have the ideal setup (streaming and other things are fine on wireless).

So maybe 1 ceiling mounted AP in the middle of the first floor, one in wall where the gamer is (for Ethernet ports as well as supplemental WiFi on the second floor), and maybe one In-Wall in the basement if needed (good chance it won't be).

AC-In-Wall:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-UAP-AC-Iw-Wireless-Access/dp/B06XZLP8Q6/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1YA0NR13TWSGZ&keywords=ubiquiti+in+wall&qid=1574903832&s=electronics&sprefix=ubiquiti+in+w%2Celectronics%2C199&sr=1-2

If you do get 2-3 Ubiquiti APs, you'll probably want a PoE switch to power them all. This is another expense, unfortunately, but makes installation much cleaner.

>Based on what I've read (and experienced before) one kungfu wireless router isn't likely to provide adequate coverage throughout the house.

If you didn't want to go the Ubiquiti route, your house is actually a pretty good candidate for an Asus or Netgear, since it's 900sf stacked on top of each other. These consumer routers are pretty good these days. Unless your house is all brick and metal, I don't see why it wouldn't cover it.

Not a fan of the vitrolos case from Amazon. Bought one myself and it had no ventilation. Only box I've ever gotten a high temp indicator.

I'd recommend the canakit stuff off Amazon. If you want it all in one they have a kit that isn't too bad of a value, perhaps a the SD card is a little bit overpriced. But for friends that want to have me make something for them (like a retropie setup or whatever) I just point them to this as it's easier:

CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 Complete Starter Kit - 32 GB Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qEWfzbMVV9W7S

Otherwise you can pick a board, power supply, case, and heatsinks if you want, and if you have an hdmi cable and extra SD card you can get out a little cheaper.

If you only play on console [get this] (https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-ZOWIE-inch-Gaming-Monitor/dp/B01H5KKRLO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498142803&sr=8-1&keywords=rl2460)

If you play on pc as well [get this] (https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-XL2411-Professional-1920x1080-Response/dp/B01H5KKQTM/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1498142859&sr=1-4&keywords=144+hz+monitor)

What's not to believe? You can look up independent testing on various monitors. 1-3ms response time
monitors have been widely available for quite some time and used for just about every other competitive game that's not melee or smash 64, the melee community has been extremely slow to adopt because of price, misinformation, and the misconception that all non CRT monitors are terrible. Truth is there's plenty of laggy CRT monitors out there.

CRT are so prevalent because they're cheap as hell so getting together a few hundred is no problem, whereas 200 high end monitors would run you about $40,000, which is pretty impossible for a grass roots community. Not to mention there's zero risk of someone stealing your old heavy CRT, and a potentially high risk of your nice new ASUS monitor being stolen, or broken, if it is tipped over, dropped, etc .

There's quite a few monitors out there that are perfect for melee BenQ is just the name that's most common.

Here's one in a good price range

Higher quality than the previous, more expensive though

Independent testing of a BenQ monitor, 1ms response time

BenQ ZOWIE XL2411P 24 Inch 1080p 144Hz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H5KKQTM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I just bought this one and have been super happy with it. Exactly $200, has a ton of good reviews and it’s the official monitor for some esports tournaments.

Those specs are fine, but for SolidWorks using integrated graphics is going to be painful.

Here is a PC with similar specs but a dedicated graphics card:
https://www.amazon.com/Acer-E5-575G-57D4-15-6-Inches-Notebook-i5-7200U/dp/B01LD4MGY4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1509920748&sr=1-1&refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A3012497011

If you're buying your own modem, you might as well get a DOCSIS 3.1 modem - Not that the 3.0 won't support your speed, but to future proof yourself. The Motorola version is this:

https://www.amazon.com/MOTOROLA-Approved-Comcast-Gigablast-MB8600/dp/B0723599RQ/ref=sr_1_7?crid=MN7K7BCN9JT8&keywords=docsis+3.1+modem&qid=1566855330&s=electronics&sprefix=docsis+3.1%2Celectronics%2C175&sr=1-7

As for a WiFi router, the Nighthawk series is Netgears top of the line, so place it in the middle most part of your house on a shelf or somewhere up high and you should get pretty decent coverage.

Since you own the home, you could go all out and do a couple of Ethernet runs in the ceiling and mount two (or more) wireless access points where you need a little more coverage.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ubiquiti+unifi+apac+lite&qid=1566855646&s=electronics&sr=1-3

Sounds like you are looking for Ubiquiti and a UniFi cloud controller.

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-System-UAP-AC-LITE-US/dp/B015PR20GY/

https://help.ubnt.com/hc/en-us/articles/209376117-UniFi-Install-a-UniFi-Cloud-Controller-on-Amazon-Web-Services

It does everything you're asking and can be fully managed through a web interface without connecting to the clients network

>I've considered trying to run an Ethernet cable to their side and then adding a repeater (is that the right name?)

Repeaters are trash. Don't bother.

>Also, was thinking it might work to put the router in the center of the attic?

Location of the router doesn't matter, just the access point.

How to get decent wireless coverage on both sides of a double? Stop using consumer grade all=in-one garbage. Get a dedicated access point (AP) that you can mount on a wall or ceiling and your coverage will be much, much better. Personally I use the UniFi line of access points from Uniquiti. UniFi AC Pro for $150, UniFi AC Lite for $78. technically you need to install the controller software someplace to do initial configuration, but that software doesn't have to run 24x7 (unless you're a dick and want to do a captive portal to make your neighbors log in). The UniFi line is Power over Ethernet (PoE) as well (with an injector) so you only have to run one cable to the device. Additionally if you need you can add an additional access point and have handoff between the devices.

The AP doesn't have to be from UniFi. I just suggest them becasue the configuration is easy. The iPhone app makes pairing the AP to a controller stupid simple as well. I used an entry-level Cisco Meraki AP for three years before replacing it. You could get one for free by watching a webinar and got a three year license. UniFi doesn't have licensing.

You can use any COX approved cable modem and router with an external access point. If your router has an AP built in just turn that off.

Since you are looking to share with your neighbors you may want to look at the "unlimited" data package. that is an extra $50 USD month. If you have multiple TVs all streaming content it adds up fast. Between the neighbors and myself we average 3 TB a month. I can always tell when the COX CSR looks at data usage.

Boy, Ubiquiti sure doesn't make it easy for the average home user/consumer to get a grasp on their products and offerings. I fumbled my way into a similar situation as yourself, perhaps bits of my ramblings will be helpful for you. I started off with a trusty little ER-X, fully planning to outgrow that little device within a matter of months. That did NOT happen, as it's quite a capable router for the $49 I invested in it. It even handled load-balancing dual WAN connections without breaking a sweat. And there's a PoE passthrough for pairing the router with a wireless access point. After being so thrilled with the ER-X, I decided it was time to bring our wireless capabilities into the 21st century and ended up going with a UAP-AC-LR, which has continued to serve us well over the past ~18+ months, or so. I was getting consistent remarks on just how great the WiFi was all of a sudden after deploying that lovely little UFO shaped device. Do yourself a favor and avoid the CloudKey, unless you have a very specific use-case / need for it. There's dozens of ways to run a UniFi Controller that are both cheaper (free?) and better, IMO. If you just have the single access point (I only have the one) you could potentially even stand it up simply by using the UniFi mobile app to set it and forget it. It only needs to run when you want to make modifications, or changes to your setup, but the options are immense. You can even run the software on your desktop PC, pretty much whatever you have on hand will suffice.

In an effort to give a somewhat complete run-down of your options, there's another line of products, where many folks prefer to go with a pure UniFi setup. The USG is on par with the ER-X, but it's twice the cost with less power and less features. The only added bonus is that you get to manage it from the same menu/interface as your access point(s), so your metrics and charts will fill out more and look a bit prettier, but how often do you really sit around and look at how much data your network devices are pulling? I still prefer the EdgeMAX dashboard over the UniFi Controller interface, especially considering the fact that I'm not wholly convinced the values are particularly accurate, so it may be of little value if that's something you actually need for your use-case, rather than just a pretty toy to view. Hope some of this helps, if you have further questions, please ask away! Below I'll list the absolute bare-bones, budget-conscious way to get into an incredibly stable home network setup, from my experiences. I only recently upgraded my Edgerouter-X with an Edgerouter 12 from the Early Release store, and today is the day my upgraded fiber package gets flipped on. Goodbye 100Mbps, hello Gbps! Sadly, not symmetrical... but that's for another time and place. Best of luck with your decision(s). I swear by my little "hybrid" network with the Edgerouter at the core and the UniFi access point (i've since added a mish-mash of switches, but unless you have a large need for ethernet connected devices, the ER-X should be plenty to get you going. This TP-Link was the absolute cheapest "managed" (smart) switch I could find in my research. I'm not quite sold on the UniFi switches, but I often wish I owned an Edgeswitch Lite, but someday I'll learn more than just the basics of the used Cisco SG300-20 i picked up to be the "core" switch of my network. Both the ER-X and ER12 have the added bonus of built in switching chips, so you get the best of both worlds which gives you quite a bit of flexibility in a home/lab environment.

TL;DR -- Edgerouter-X paired with UAP-AC-Lite with the UniFi Controller software running on pretty much whatever you have on hand (RPi, Google Cloud Compute, AWS, any old PC, etc.) and you will have a rock-solid network core with dreamy WiFi that'll get you compliments for weeks, if not months from your significant other and/or housemate(s).

Sure,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LD4MGY4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's not touchscreen but I knew that before I bought it. Absolutely fantastic laptop, haven't had any issues with it. I suspect I'll be using this for at least another 4 years.

Yes I agree the

Acer E15
-----------------
would be the best choice for you in that price range your working with.

ha? https://www.amazon.com/Acer-XFA240-bmjdpr-Response-Technology/dp/B06ZYHZ6R6/
I mean not 150 but still...

the newest version of Acer's 1080p 144hz monitor is only $10 more.

Nixeus is regarded very highly and considered to have better quality in general, dunno if it's worth an extra $20 over the Acer

This AOC monitor is only $4 more expensive but it's likely the same quality except without PWM and with freesync If you've seen the reports of the other AOC not being really 144hz, I have a friend with this one and he confirmed that it is actually 144hz. It's also $190 for a refurb on newegg if that's preferable

Raspberry Pi 3 is the way to go. You can have both a retro game system, and kodi.

edit: Suggest this kit
CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 Complete Starter Kit - 32 GB Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LYZ3yb9CEMZ6P

From a technical standpoint, if you read this and understand everything you shouldn't have any problems.

As far as actually putting it together, just buy this and you'll have everything you need except a controller. You can use just about any USB gamepad, including a wired Xbox 360 controller. The trickiest thing about the assembly is probably getting the micro SD card inserted in the USB reader correctly and then in the Pie itself correctly, which isn't very difficulty.

CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 Complete Starter Kit - 32 GB Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ghuvybV3YWTGG

Hello,

I have been wanting to start playing around with a raspberry Pi 3. So I was shopping around and found some kits for sale that were interesting.

I was wondering if someone with more knowledge could help. Would buying the board at this price be better than buying one of these kits from amazon with prime?

https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504673256&sr=1-3&keywords=raspberry+pi3

https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Ultimate-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q4GLE/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504673256&sr=1-11&keywords=raspberry+pi3

https://www.amazon.com/Vilros-Raspberry-Basic-Starter-Black/dp/B01DMFQZXK/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504673256&sr=1-9&keywords=raspberry+pi3

https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Essentials-Kit-board-Connectivity/dp/B01LWVVMUI/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504673256&sr=1-10&keywords=raspberry+pi3


If I just bought the board now, I would need to buy:

• Power supply
  
• Micro SD card
  
• HDMI cable
  
• and a case maybe
  
  Edit: Formatting
  

HDMI Cable, and make sure that SD card is compatible (Needs to be class 10). You should just follow the official guide here. It has a list of hardware.

https://github.com/RetroPie/RetroPie-Setup/wiki/First-Installation#hardware-needed

Or buy this and the controller. https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1479150434&sr=1-4&keywords=raspberry+pi+3

On/Off Button (2 Pack):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077JYXZLL?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


Full “RetroPie” or “Raspbian” starter kit (“CanaKit”):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C6Q2GSY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


3.5 Inch Screen (includes the case that I’m currently using):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075JFHLQD?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


SNES controllers: I also have N64 Controllers; any type of controller you need, you can find on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7ANDLC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf



ADDITIONAL ITEMS (found around the house; or stores near me)

Power source: I used a simple phone charger; just attached it to the bottom of the system.

Zip-ties: I used them to bundle up the cables in the back; over all it condenses the whole thing without having to “splice” and reconnect cables.

“Mighty-Putty” (I got the off-brand called “Tack-Putty”): Used to connect the battery pack to the bottom of the device. Originally was going to use Velcro to have the added ability of attaching and detaching the battery pack at will. (But the putty has a really solid seal; no problems so far)


I think that’s it; happy building!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C6Q2GSY

I bought this and took me like an hour between opening the box, putting together, configuring, and adding ROMS.

I also have no comp exp.

As was mentioned, you won't find one under £150. Some recommended entry level 144Hz monitors would be:

BenQ Zowie XL2411

ASUS VG248QE

AOC G2460PF

The AOC is the one I have, mainly because it was the cheapest of the three at the time. Have no issues with it, Freesync is nice for the price, although I can't make use of it.

Good choices for 144hz 1080p TN panels are ASUS VG248QE and BENQ 2411z. Check for BENQ refurb deals, I got my 2411z refurb from benq.com 2 years ago and i love it, no issues.

and btw 5ms is no big deal, you will not notice, anything under 10ms is definitely acceptable. This video explains everything you need to know: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ER1YV42iqrE You can't trust what manufactures put in the specs, just read reviews and use 3rd party testing results such as https://displaylag.com/display-database/ if you are worried about ghosting

$200 for a 1080p 144hz gsync monitor. I had this one for 2 years before I went to 1440p. Highly recommend it Acer XFA240 bmjdpr 24" Gaming G-SYNC Compatible Monitor 1920 x 1080, 144hz Refresh Rate, 1ms Response Time with Height, Pivot, Swivel & Tilt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYHZ6R6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_q9iUCb3YV5TCG

Acer Gaming Monitor 24" XFA240 bmjdpr 1920 x 1080 144Hz Refresh Rate 1ms Response Time AMD FREESYNC Technology with Height, Pivot, Swivel & Tilt (Display Port, HDMI/MHL, DVI Port) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYHZ6R6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iNmbBb5Y46Y8H

Got one recently and pleased with it so far

Also cheap on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Ultra-128GB-Micro-Adapter/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1538147866&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=sandisk+class+10+micro+sd+card&psc=1

128GB for $26.41, 64GB for $14.75, 32GB for $9.39. I believe flash memory is dropping with cryptocurrency dropping.

$25.39

Sandisk Ultra 128GB Micro SDXC UHS-I Card with Adapter -  100MB/s U1 A1 - SDSQUAR-128G-GN6MA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VdGVBb3RNJQ22

Howdy folks. There is another option that's cheaper and was posted today..

Amazon link from other thread

I bought that Sandisk card about a year ago and it's holding up well. It's also only $30 on Amazon right now (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MbDJBbWKHSPK5).

128GB Sandisk microSD cards are 15$ right now on Amazon.

wow 50 bucks huh? not sure if your going to get anything reliable at that price. if you need 5ghz only you could always get one of these and mount it to a rafter facing down. at 65 bucks its a little over your budget.

one of these though is a lot more suited to home wifi. you can turn the 2.4ghz channel off if you really dont want it too. yes its a hundred bucks but you would be hard pressed to find another solution that would work as well in this price range.

I'd say the TP-Link Archer C7 or the ASUS RT-N66U should do the trick. If you want to go nutty there's always the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite and UniFi AP AC Lite, but this setup isn't as plug-and-play as the first two.

[This is the kit I got] (https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1484331052&sr=1-3&keywords=raspberry+pi+3)

You can make one all inclusive for about $70 or so. It's relatively simple. You'll need the Pi (~$35), a power chord(~$5-10), a microSD card, an HDMI chord, and USB controllers(~$10-15 each). I highly recommend getting a case, although it's not 100% necessary.

Retropie setup guide: https://learn.adafruit.com/running-opengl-based-games-and-emulators-on-adafruit-pitft-displays/retropie-setup

Kit example: https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY

I would make sure and use a power supply specifically made for the Pi, but if you have a spare HDMI chord, microSD adapter, and decent microSD card laying around you can save a few bucks and get a kit without them.

After you set up RetroPie, download the games you want to install (Warning: Nintendo, Sega, etc games are copyrighted, so they're technically illegal to download. Your chances of repercussions for doing so are very low, but I've included fair warning now). Install the downloaded games and enjoy.

I use these https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-System-UAP-AC-LITE-US/dp/B015PR20GY/

Just spread them around your house. I used 3 for my house, not even a single spot has no/weak signal.

This is closer to a home networking topic because of the low complexity but I don't mind helping.

1. Don't get EdgeRouter X. The EdgeRouter Lite is quite a bit better and only costs a bit more.
   
   
2. Your bottleneck is most likely the wireless routers you have currently. Neither is suitable for running 40 devices and even 20 can be pushing their limits once you have just a few clients streaming video.
   
   Put your modem into bridge mode and have the N66-U running as the router. Turn off the wireless. Get a UniFi AC Lite AP, place it up high and wire it into the router.
   
   If you have extra money get another access point and then an EdgeRouter Lite 3.
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-System-UAP-AC-LITE-US/dp/B015PR20GY
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Edgerouter-Router-ERLITE-3/dp/B00HXT8EKE
   
   

Get yourself a Ubiquiti Edge router and AC-AP-Lite. Network problems done.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C/ref=pd_sbs_147_9?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00YFJT29C&pd_rd_r=XWMVACJREC989AK6NVZZ&pd_rd_w=TT8Ar&pd_rd_wg=4sK3H&psc=1&refRID=XWMVACJREC989AK6NVZZ

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1517765893&sr=8-5&keywords=ubiquiti+access+point

For the T440s? I would go with following upgrades:

• Display: 14.0" FHD IPS
  
• Rear battery: ThinkPad Battery 6 cell Li-Ion (72Wh) Cyl HC Rear
  
• Wireless: Intel Dual Band Wireless 7260AC with Bluetooth 4.0
  
  Everything else stock. If you don't need 10 to 12 hours of battery life, you can go for a smaller battery. The 6 cell rear battery will stick out of the bottom. I don't know if you want that. Then I would buy a 4 GB RAM module and a 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO and stick it in instead of the HDD. The prices right now on the 840 EVO series from Samsung are crazy.

the 840 evo 250gb is currently on sale. for ~20 more you can get twice the storage

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-EVO-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7TE250BW/dp/B00E3W1726/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394632204&sr=8-1&keywords=840+evo+250gb

It is absolutely worth it. I have an early 2011 MBP and the speed bump from switching to an SSD was enormous. I can't recommend it enough.

If you are looking for hardware suggestions, look at the Samsung 840 Evo. I have it, some people I know have one, we all are satisfied and it seems to give you lots of bang for the buck.

You could do this + this. If you've only got 2 fans, then the one you linked + the power supply I linked would work.

SanDisk Ultra 128GB microSDXC UHS-I Card with Adapter, Black, Standard Packaging (SDSQUNC-128G-GN6MA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q57S62/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_gjNEybQA4N5TQ

128GB for $39.99 retail.

I saw a SanDisk SDXC 128GB for 29.99 on Amazon, the 200GB is 49.99. Not sure if these are exclusively black Friday related, but it's definitely the lowest I've seen either.

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q57S62/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_m8OnybSB4D0HT

Amazon is now matching this deal.

Definitely buy the Klipsch ProMedia speakers. Great sound, affordable, and THX certified if that means anything to you.

http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-ProMedia-Certified-Computer-Speaker/dp/B000062VUO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408206471&sr=8-1&keywords=klipsch+promedia+2.1

If you want a convenient package, aren't an "audiophile" and the whole budget is $100 - i'd recommend the Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 setup. I've had mine for over three years, my buddy's had a set for over 8 years. Great performance for a small package and at a great price.

May be slightly out of your stated range, but you could probably find them cheaper, but Klipsch kicks ass: http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-ProMedia-Certified-Computer-Speaker/dp/B000062VUO

These are $150 but trust me when I say these Klipsch ProMedia's are some of if not thee best desktop speakers for the money.

This eBay store (excellent feedback) has a complete set (used though) for about $75.

And here are two listing for NEW sets on eBay that fall between $100 and $120. Set 1 and Set 2

http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-ProMedia-Certified-Computer-Speaker/dp/B000062VUO

I bought these a few years ago and they are still running strong. Sound quality is excellent for the price, though I now use them as TV speakers.

Had these for the past 10 years or so, still rocking strong.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000062VUO

The only odd thing about them is that they don't have a power switch. They're always on.

It'd be cheaper to just get a Bluetooth adapter on Amazon while you're at it. At least then you can use it for other things as well.

One like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZIILLI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_J4ZPyb23DGPF1

Microsoft suggested this bluetooth adapter for WMR in one of their troubleshooting guides.

This one. It was actually $14. My bad.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Micro-stuttering and high ping spikes are usually caused by packet loss, which often has to do with shitty WiFi. Some games seem to handle poor connections worse than others. I had a similar experience with Titanfall 2.

I resolved in by plugging in Ethernet. It's not a convenient solution, but since the connection issues are coming from you, there's nothing the devs can really do.

If you don't have an ethernet port in your room, try a Powerline adapter. (Not an affiliate link or anything, just an example of the cheapest one you can get)

You get two adapters. Plug one into a wall outlet near your modem and plug an ethernet cord into it. Then you plug the other one into a wall outlet near your computer/xbox/PS4, and plug an ethernet cable from it into your machine. It basically turns your powerlines into a giant ethernet cable. It's not as fast as direct, but it's a million times better and more reliable than WiFi.

Yep!

I got this one

I learned about it when I was planning my PC and looking for ways around having to use wifi. thought it was too good to be true. It isn't.

I'm perfectly content with my 1440p $259 acer monitor.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QS0AKVK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I love mine

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QS0AKVK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

> SanDisk 200GB

boop

How does this differ from this SanDisk 200gb MicroSD available since March 2015?

Article Jun 29, 2015.. oh.

200gb is $49.99.

https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-SDSDQUAN-200G-G4A/dp/B00V62XBQQ

Amazon link. Note that 128 GB is the sweet spot for GBs/dollar.

Or get 2 x 200 GB for $140

Mate you copy and pasted the wrong information :

That information is for:
>CrystalDiskMark 3.0 - PNY U3 Turbo Performance 32GB High Speed MicroSDHC - P-SDU32GU390G-GE
Sequential Read : 90.912 MB/s
Sequential Write : 54.702 MB/s

Speed benchmark for the 200gb sandisk via this site is:

45.93 MB/s read and 24.33 MB/s write for sequential in CDM

ATTO picture on the right tops out at 15 MB/s write speed writing larger files and 40+ MB/s read speed

edit: another customer review http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/review/B00V62XBQQ/R23QSX1C2N3LKY?ref_=glimp_1rv_cl at 83 MB/s read and 14.7 MB/S write

And another with a CDM http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/review/B00V62XBQQ/R2VEZ2XWKOTMDU?ref_=glimp_1rv_cl NFI how to interpret as his SEQQ32T1 is 26ish MB/S but SEQ is 60MB/S

/u/Nilzzz reports 19MB/S sequential write

Alright I got a technical question.

I ordered a SanDisk Extreme PRO 64GB link

Read: Up to 95MB/s

Write: Up to 90MB/s

So won't this be ideal for a snappy phone speeds from an SD card for both 4k and general use?


---

Compared to the current offer Actual amazon link

The product description doesn't give a clear indication of write speeds (vs the 1st product I listed) but from the useful Amazon Comments I got:

Sequential Read : 45.93 MB/s

Sequential Write : 14.7 MB MB/s

^(thanks /u/ekol for the correct read/write speeds)

So wouldn't the 64gig Extreme pro be ideal for 4k recording and general speediness?

Plug your computer straight into the modem and do a speed test. Write down whatever speed you got and then test the speed over your wi-fi. If there is a large difference you are having issues with your wireless connection. Quite a few things can cause problems with wifi especially if you live a high density area. There are a few phone apps that will actually find open wifi channels that aren't being used by your neighbor and after you find one you can set your router to that channel manually. In addition to that Cox often has problems with their DNS servers so I tend to use googles (8.8.8.8 8.8.4.4)

Edit: There's a lot of information in the paragraph so please feel free to pick my brain with any questions.

Double Edit: I would definitely bite the bullet and buy your own router if you are trying to play games and stream stuff. 100 bucks nowadays gets you a do everything router with a 5ghz connection instead of 2.4 which is a lot better for streaming and online games. This is a good example

You might want to check if you can run multiple devices off your connection as they may only provide you with one IP address (similar to a normal home service from an ISP).

In this case you will need a router to connect up all your devices. Any standard home router will do the trick. I use an ASUS RT N66U - 4 wired gigabit ports, 802.11n Wi-Fi and it's nice and speedy with my 100mbit WAN connection. $129.99 @ Amazon.

However if your uni/college allows for multiple devices per room (ie, they provide you with multiple IP addresses) you will be able to get away with using an ethernet switch. As mentioned in other comments, opt a model with faster Gigabit ports as nowadays there is really no big price difference and the extra bandwidth could come in handy one day. A basic 5-port TP-Link Gigabit switch is $19.99 @ Amazon (or you can get an 8-port model for $24.99 @ Amazon).

Don't get a hub. I honestly haven't seen one on sale for years anyway, good luck trying to track one down!

So the first thing you should decide is what type of internet to get. The vast majority of people get cable or fiber (if they can afford it and if it's available). Both of those options give you good reliable internet. The cheap option is to get DSL which works over telephone lines. DSL usually has low speeds and isn't as reliable but only costs like $30 a month compared to $60-100 for better internet. If you like to stream movies or do anything outside of very basic browsing, I would say to get cable if you can afford it. What you do then is find a provider for that internet (internet service provider - ISP). Comcast, Cox, AT&T, Verizon, and many local companies are ISPs but you're probably limited to only one or two in whatever region you live (assuming USA). You should also know that these companies have random naming conventions for their services (Comcast calls their cable Xfinity while AT&T calls theirs Uverse) So you go to their web sites and compare plans and find something that works for you (if you don't know what speed you need, I would recommend 20 Mbps or more for streaming and normal use, 50 Mbps if you're a really heavy user). You can use this to find out what providers even have wiring in your area (if the top speed for a certain provider only shows as 10-25 mbps, then it's likely only DSL).

If you go with cable, you'll need both a modem (which receives the internet connection from the cable built into your apartment) and a router (which takes that wired connection and turns it into wireless - wifi). I would recommend buying your own hardware because companies like Comcast charge you something like $7-10 a month per modem/router that you get from them, which ends up being more expensive than buying your own to start with. If you buy your own modem, make sure it will work with whatever cable provider you select (something like this is standard). After that, you hook up your router. There are many to choose from. You can get one for as little as $10-30, but I would recommend getting a better one like this if you can as it performs exceptionally well and is easy to set up as well.

If you have any specific questions, let me know.

Don't keep your wifi bound to their shitty equipment.

Do a hard-wired connection from their shitty modem to a better wifi router like this ASUS model. We use these at work and their range is pretty awesome. We went from needing four routers in the building to only needing two.

I found that using a better bluetooth controller works better. If you know how to use bluetoothctl in the terminal its super useful. Something like this will work well.
The bluetooth works much better for me after as the built in one i got about a metre away before it would have issues now i can get 20m~ with the external one. I have a feeling its a mix between cheap bluetooth designs and the drivers for the chips. For reference I have a C101PA

I'll add to this thread.

If your motherboard has integrated bluetooth, it most likely has the antennae at the back of the computer and probably has wifi combined with it. Both of these are a problem. Get a "dongle" and use a cable to bring it to your desktop or use one of the usb ports on the front of your computer.

As per Microsoft: do NOT use a usb3 port!

Microsoft recommended dongle.

You can buy Bluetooth adapters for under $15 while the Xbox adapter currently costs $32, so this is a good thing.

I installed the Samsung 860 EVO 1TB and it's been great. Seems very fast to me.

​

Samsung 860 EVO 1TB

It appears to be available on Amazon now for the same price.

While the $99 Ryzen 3 1200 would get the job done just fine, it could be a bit of a bottleneck if you plan on upgrading your GPU to anything above an RX 580/GTX 1060. For a mere $65 more the Ryzen 5 2600 is a much better choice as far as performance and future proofing go. It would pair quite nicely with any GPU, and won't bottleneck pretty much anything (unless you get something ridiculous like a Titan V, perhaps). As for a motherboard, I've always went with ASUS. The ASUS Prime B350-Plus would be my choice for your price range.

AMD Ryzen 5 2600 Processor with Wraith Stealth Cooler - YD2600BBAFBOX
I have the x model. It is amazing. Have mine paired with a 580. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B41WS48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lNMODbRT208JV

Thinking about this vs the 2600. I want to upgrade my gfs PC and I wonder if the $55 difference is worth it. She does lots of design work with illustrator/photoshop/indesign and plays lots of games, but she's got a 60hz monitor and isn't bothered by >60fps. Right now she's using an old FX8350 or some fx8000 series amd card and sometimes she's dropping under 30-45fps playing low-medium settings with her 1060 3gb gpu.

What do you guys think?

I5 price is steep... Ryzen 5 2600 is cheaper and better

Here are some options that match your Description:


Acer Helios 300 price: $1100 (Best option, if there is a discount)


ASUS ROG G531GT price: $830


Ideapad L340 price: $716


Acer Swift 3 price: $700


Asus TUF FX505DT price: $700


More Customization: BudgetSet


^(You are talking to a human.)


^(If you find this reply useless, downvote for removal.)


^(This project is purely for help, and there is no way for us to profit from it)

Amazon.com also has the Helios 300 with similar specs to this, but with a 144hz IPS panel.

Price is roughly the same, even with duties calculated.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QXLFLXT?pf_rd_p=2d1ab404-3b11-4c97-b3db-48081e145e35&pf_rd_r=ZJ72X48R24BW6DKPCSVB

https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Predator-i7-8750H-Overclockable-PH315-51-78NP/dp/B07CTHLX8C/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1538417882&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=acer+helios+300&psc=1

with better processor, ram, storage and a 144hz screen.

And people won't even pay more than 1100 used for that model. Your asking price is way too high.

200GB - $64.99

128GB - $38.99

64GB - $19.99

The hard wire kit is supposed to cut power off if the battery voltage gets too low to prevent draining the battery. I may test to see how long it records with the car off to see if it will be something I do.

I'm not familiar with types of SC cards so hopefully mine will work. It suggested a class 10 so I got the SanDisk Ultra.

I'm talking about an internal SSD. The 2.5" models use what's called a SATA connector (the same type your current hard drive should use). Using it through USB will not only be much slower, but also mean that you have to carry around the external storage which is a pain in the ass.

The best way to think about SSDs is that they're basically really fast hard drives with no moving parts. They're just better in every way, and in this day and age it's hard to be without one.

Edit: here is what I'm talking about when I say internal 2.5" SSD.

Available through Amazon Prime for the same price. Non-prime is $299.99.

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Inch-Internal-MZ-76E1T0B-AM/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537281679&sr=8-1&keywords=MZ-76E1T0B%2FAM

If you do need a new SSD you'd be better off getting 1TB instead:

Samsung has the 860 EVO M.2 1TB for the same price as two of these.

Same with Microcenter (in-store only) but with the SATA III version.

Amazon for $168.

To be honest, you might as well wait two months for Black Friday. Chances are if they're this low now, especially given how many places have them on sale for this price, it'll be much cheaper on Black Friday.

A desktop.

But, if you want good performance, a laptop designated as a gaming laptop
would be a good start. A better one would be a desktop replacement laptop. And best would be a workstation laptop.

The Acer Predator Helios 300 Gaming Laptop would be a good place to look.

I'm a tech guy. Love following PC hardware and laptops and Mac all over the place, even built my own PC and stuff. I'm looking through the BYOD suggested list and all I can think is that they're scamming freshman. Straight up I can think of 5 or 6 laptops with better specs and way better performance than this lenovo off the top of my head that are WAY cheaper than $1500. I just want to know if we should suggest other laptops for the freshman BYOD requirement that might not be as crappy as this.

Like, seriously, $1500 and only a U-series i7, a freaking 2GB discrete graphics chip and 8GB of RAM??? The 2019 Acer Helios 300 for example is $300 less, has a 144hz IPS display, 16GB of RAM, the same amount of hard drive space, a freaking H-series 6 core i7, and a spankin' 1660Ti under the cover with x3 the VRAM.

Did I mention it was $300 less too? Here's the amazon link for proof. Seriously guys, be careful with BYOD. I have friends who straight up wasted $1500 on something just as terrible instead of buying something actually great.

https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Predator-i7-9750H-Keyboard-PH315-52-78VL/dp/B07QXLFLXT/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=helios+300&qid=1566524666&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Edit: Also, if you're looking for an allegory to the Lenovo, look at the Y530. It's only got a 1050Ti, but the 8750H is still a beast and the 1050Ti is okay for anything 1080p medium settings at 50-60fps. The Helios is better, but that's Acer if you're not into them.

Is this it? Does it come with the games?

This or the deal on newegg?

There's also this deal.

www.amazon.com/dp/B07CTHLX8C

save for tower, this should work perfect for wow, btw you should clean fans every 3 months

Everything I've heard on reddit and other forums says to avoid AMD products in laptops. The 2019 Helios 300 is just under $1200 right now, though that laptop is only 15". I know that line has 17" models but not sure on prices.

That being said, if this is what your heart is set on, obviously no one can give you a 100% answer. Amazon Prime Day was just last week and a lot of other businesses ran similar sales to try to snipe away some of Amazon's business. We are now getting into the back to school sales but there is no guarantee that what you want will go on sale (or if that sale would be worth the wait) so you could be waiting for nothing. Most brick and mortar stores (i.e. not Amazon) will refund you for any price changes if the price drops during your refund/exchange period (Best Buy will, for sure.)

Black Friday would probably be your best bet, but once again, no one can say for sure. I do want to reiterate that I think the 2019 Helios 300 is your best bet. I was a little miffed about the 15" screen but I eventually decided that investing in a nice (and bigger) external monitor would be better for gaming at home and that 15" would be good enough when out of town.

Not right now, there's a new version with the 1660ti releasing soon. I think it's a similar price too. https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Predator-i7-9750H-Keyboard-PH315-52-78VL/dp/B07QXLFLXT/ref=sr_1_4

It's a good laptop, but the newer 2019 model is more powerful and has almost universally positive reviews: https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Predator-i7-9750H-Keyboard-PH315-52-78VL/dp/B07QXLFLXT/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

This will run all AAA and newer games above 80-120 fps at high settings. Gaming benchmark video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aNoZ5bqofTI

You can differentiate between the two by the colors as the 2019 one is blue and the previous one is red. So if you're buying an Helios 300 right now would highly suggest you to go for the newer one. Not sure whether it's officially available in Canada yet, but pretty sure you could order from the above link to a Canadian address. If you want the 17 inch model of this, you'll have to wait as it's not out yet.

If you are not in hurry, I suggest u wait for the new Acer predator Helios 300. Pre-orders have just started and it seems to be a really nice.
Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Predator-i7-9750H-Keyboard-PH315-52-78VL/dp/B07QXLFLXT

Cheap VR Ready laptops don't exist. Even mediocre i7-8750H / Gtx1060 system will cost you around $1000. More decent i7-9750H / Gtx1660Ti version is $1100.

You might find some sales or cheap deals, but you have to shop around. Look for a laptop with at least Gtx1060 (ignore all the 1050Ti's and 1650's), ideally with i7-8750H or i7-9750H CPU (avoid R7-3750H).

What do you think about this version of Acer Predator Helios 300? The price is CAD $1820.

• 8th Generation Intel Core i7-8750H 6-Core Processor (Up to 4.1GHz) with Windows 10 Home 64 Bit
  
• NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 Overclockable Graphics with 6 GB of dedicated GDDR5 VRAM
  
• 15.6" Full HD (1920 x 1080) widescreen LED-backlit IPS display (144Hz Refresh Rate, 300nit Brightness & 72% NTSC )
  
• 16GB DDR4 2666MHz DRAM Memory & 256GB PCIe NVMe SSD | Extra empty accessible slot for 2.5 inch hard drive or SSD
  
• Gigabit Wi-Fi |Backlit Keyboard | USB 3.1 (Type C) | Dual All-Metal AeroBlade 3D Fan Cooling | Metal Chassis
  
• PredatorSense gaming control panel, providing customization and control of gaming features, including system temperature, CPU fan speed and system fan speed.
  
• Up to 7-hours of battery life
  
  More Details

Where are you getting the price for that ryzen 2600?

It's £125 just glancing on Amazon.

Hey just so you know, the 2600 is only $129 new with the cooler on amazon...might want to consider lowering it a bit.
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B07B41WS48

the 2600 is availible from amazon for $150:

https://smile.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B07B41WS48/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539755181&sr=8-1&keywords=2600

As someone who has designed many networks for paying customers, I advise you to drop this bad idea.

It can't be done. Phone lines are not part of the Cat N system. Ethernet requires 4 twisted pairs of wires to suppress the noise and cross talk. Phone lines are simply 4 straight wires. The Ethernet connectors are wired in a specific wsy to keep the signals clean.

You would be better off installing a nice mesh wireless system. Install, configure,use & enjoy. Trying to repurpose phone lines will yield unending frustration.

If you choose to roll your own with Cat 5/6 cabele, here is the connector pinout (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B41WS48/ref=twister_B07G285RYJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1). You should use the T568B pattern for better results. There are a number of guides to designing a proper network.

The 2600 is an excellent, excellent CPU. Easily the best bang-for-the-buck processor available at the moment, at it's regular price of $170. Right now, it's available for $150.

It's also overclockable, while the 8400 is not, which puts it ahead with no contest.

A B450 motherboard is the standard option.

I don't really think that's a good price for it. You could buy the base version of the Helios 300 with 16GB of RAM and 256GB NVMe SSD and upgrade it yourself for less money.

Laptop - $1100

1TB SSD -$150

1TB HDD - $50

32 GB RAM - $135

Total - $1435

Also keep in mind that the parts I have picked are very high quality parts, much higher quality than the one which comes out of the box if you buy the $1650 one.

https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Predator-i7-9750H-Keyboard-PH315-52-78VL/dp/B07QXLFLXT/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=predator+helios+300&qid=1574791244&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-Vengeance-Performance-260-Pin-CMSX32GX4M2A2666C18/dp/B01BGZEVHU/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2PZZP5CYPX5DT&keywords=32gb+sodimm+ddr4&qid=1574791270&sprefix=32+gb+sodimm%2Caps%2C513&sr=8-4

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-1TB-MZ-V7E1T0BW/dp/B07BN217QG/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=1tb+970+evo&qid=1574791355&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-Internal-Drive-2-5-Inch/dp/B07H28QRKN/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=1tb+seagate+barracuda+2.5&qid=1574791376&sr=8-3

This or

Legion Y740 17”
(This should be $1280 on Friday)

Or

Aero 15 Classic

Or

Helios 300

Acer Predator Helios 300:

6-core i7-9750H, 16GB DDR4, 256GB SSD, GTX 1660 Ti = $1200

Then upgrade RAM to 32GB.

Then replace the SSD with a 2TB Intel 660p for $200.

It'a a beast of a laptop with one of the fastest mobile CPUs and a decent GPU.

The only weak part is the display, it's a 1080 144hz panel. It's more of a gaming machine, not very color-accurate. Get a good IPS 4K monitor and connect it with HDMI.

The battery life isn't great, but that's true of all high-spec laptops. If you want a powerful GPU for video editing, you have to sacrifice battery life.

Eh, DDR3 is expensive for what it is, but that's if you buy it new which I wouldn't recommend for this kind of system. An Fx-8350 costs as much as a 2 Gen Ryzan 5 at this point, there really isn't much of a case for building one new. However you can usually find killer deals on second hand sites like shopgoodwill.com. Some of the machines will need repairs (most of the time a hard drives/ssd does the trick) but I've always had pretty good luck with them.

The 128GB version is only $32 : Sandisk Ultra 128GB Micro SDXC UHS-I Card with Adapter -  100MB/s U1 A1 - SDSQUAR-128G-GN6MA

The same cost per byte for 128GB is excellent!

Amazon

So decided to dig out my old psp slim and mess around with it again. I could not find any info online about using anything bigger than a 64GB MicroSD working at all so I figured id give 128GB card a go. If it didn't work then Id just have a new 128GB card to use in my Nintendo Switch.

I have a psp 2000 flashed to 6.60ME-1.6 (I have not even checked to see if there is a new CFW since this version)

Bought this microSD to memstick pro duo - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00176F2RC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this microSD - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B073JYC4XM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used gparted in Linux (this is just what I run as my OS) to delete the exfat partition and recreated it as fat32.
I see no reason why disk management in windows (and what ever apple uses) as well to delete/recreate the partition as fat32.

Once I put the card into my PSP is said the card could not be used and needed to be formatted. so I let it format. Once it was done it reported all the correct free space. copied over all my iso and games run just fine. from me testing load times in GTA:VCS went from 26.56s to 31.41s on the new SD card. Also most psp takes a few more seconds to boot. but I suspect that's because I have 11x the number of games on the card. overall a few seconds added to load times is worth having over 120GB more space.

Edit: Ignore the date and time being way off in the picture. My original battery had swelled and so I took it out. I was just to lazy to keep setting it every time I plugged back in the charger. Thankfully the 1800mwh sony battery I used as a pandora battery(just found out you could turn it back into a normal battery. haha) looks fine and still holds a change (I used double sided tape to hold the bigger battery in place and got almost 6 hours in gta-lsc before it needed to be charged). just waiting on an extended cover so I can use it fully.

The Switch comes with a card, it is just slow and small in space.

If you physically buy every game on the switch, you won't have much of an issue with space. It becomes an issue when you digitally buy games. I personally prefer digital, as it makes taking it on the go with me much more simple. I still get hard copies of some good single player games that I like collecting the cases for.

Sandisk 128GB Micro SD $19.99

I use this card for my switch, and you will not run out of space even if you buy most of your games digitally. If you won't buy many games, then you can opt for the 64GB card for $12.

• I also use Sandisk for my cameras, go pro's, drones. Sandisk is a reliable company.

I have all sizes. 32GB, 64GB, 128GB... Just got two 128GB cards for two new cams. I even put a 200GB card in as a pinch once. I've had no issues.

They're all over Amazon.

Samsung 860 EVO 1TB - $168

Crucial MX500 1TB - $160

WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB - $150

SanDisk 1TB Ultra - $160

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078DPCY3T

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147673&ignorebbr=1

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1382499-REG/samsung_mz_76e1t0b_am_860_evo_1tb_internal.html

Yes any 2.5”. The real question is why that drive ... it looks pretty crappy. You can afford a pro then why cheapen the experience.

Get this one...

Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=twister_B079P94LLX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Samsung 860 Evo. Probably the best sata SSD. Choose your size.

If you want to save a bit of money, search 'Crucial MX500.' You won't notice the performance difference in real use, it's within 5% of the samsung

You can try removing 3rd party programs (monitors, boosters, etc.)

In a more extreme case you can try doing a Windows 10 Refresh, which will remove any bloatware running under the hood:

https://pureinfotech.com/refresh-windows-10-clean-installation/

Even though you said otherwise, I will tell you anyway that most people are going to look at that 5400RPM game drive and point to that has the culprit:

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Inch-Internal-MZ-76E1T0B-AM/dp/B078DPCY3T/

500 GB Samsung SSD for $70

1 TB Samsung SSD for $140

And those are name-brand prices.

You have two options.

1. Get a miniature tower that can run DCS which will be possible for under $1,000.
   
2. Get a laptop that can run DCS, but you'll be limited on upgradability and screen size unless you buy a monitor separate.
   
   You're young so I'll go ahead and tell you that life is about compromises, you aren't going to get a hand held computer that can run DCS for $500 in VR at 150 FPS, it just ain't gonna happen. You'll have to choose the lesser of the two evils.
   
   ​
   
   Here is a laptop that can run DCS fairly well. https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Predator-Overclockable-Aeroblade-PH315-51-78NP/dp/B07CTHLX8C/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=asus+gaming+laptop&qid=1554490237&s=gateway&sr=8-3 It cost literally 999, so its going to be over 1,000 with taxes. Here is another that after taxes should be less than 1,000... https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GV62-8RD-200-Performance-Steelseries/dp/B07D4ZML7M/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=asus+gaming+laptop&qid=1554490367&refinements=p_n_feature_five_browse-bin%3A13580790011&rnid=2257851011&s=electronics&sr=1-12
   
   ​
   
   You can get away with playing on a laptop, I play on a 3 year old one with worse specs than the laptops mentioned above, but I also have a high dollar monitor, TrackIR, and a HOTAS. Playing DCS on a small ass laptop screen sucks.
   
   ​
   
   If you have a problem with moving a small computer tower, this isn't going to be the game for you, because you are going to need a joystick also. You can get away with flying with the keyboard or even an XBOX controller, but it is the equivalent of trying to be a professional wrestler with no arms, and you'll never come close to being as good as you could be with the proper equipment. You'll also want a headtracking device for DCS, and if you decide on TrackIR which is the best one out right now, it's gonna cost you over $100. You can kiss VR goodbye with your limited budget.
   
   ​
   
   As someone below mentioned, I wouldn't burn all your money up for gaming at such a young age my dude. You're obviously worried about meeting chicks or else you wouldn't have mentioned it in your post, so get yourself a whip and step out of your comfort zone.
   
   ​

The Predator Helios 300 is really nice. I just got one a few days ago with the 1660ti and it has great performance for the price and solid build quality. Only negative is the battery life isn't the greatest at 4 hours. I went with it over the Triton because it has the 9th gen processor and in a fair bit of cases the 1660ti beats the 2060 in speed in a laptop. I don't really care too much about battery life and the little bit of difference in weight.

https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX77925

There are a few different versions of it. One with a RTX 2060 and then one that has a 1660ti but only a 256gb ssd. https://www.amazon.ca/Acer-Predator-15-6inch-Display-i7-9750H/dp/B07QXLFLXT/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=helios+300&qid=1566763565&s=gateway&sr=8-1

You want a FreeSync monitor for an RX 580, G-SYNC is only compatible with Nvidia graphic cards. FreeSync on the other hand are fully compatible with AMD, and also has limited compatibility with Nvidia.

Since you mentioned that the PC is mainly for competitive Fortnite in another post I highly recommend a TN monitor such as: Acer XFA240.

Reasons being: It's in your budget, I don't think 144hz vs 165hz will matter (I personally don't notice a significant difference), TN have faster "pixel response time" than other panel types (which matters a lot for competitive gaming), and you won't really notice any major difference between 144hz TN monitors due to almost all of them using the same panel, just different brands basically and the only difference are the technology "around it". And I'd say Acer, ViewSonic and AOC are the best when it comes to that.

Some other alternatives are the [ViewSonic XG2402] (https://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-XG2402-FreeSync-Advanced-Ergonomics/dp/B075D1B4SV) and [ViewSonic XG240R] (https://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-XG240R-FreeSync-Advanced-Ergonomics/dp/B07L53SFGG), if you want something more fancy with USB ports, but these are slightly more expensive. If you were thinking about the BenQ Zowie XL2411P, I'd say all of these are a much better choice.

Frame: Volair Sim Universal Flight or Racing Simulation Cockpit Chassis with Triple Monitor Mounts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AGYXUKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_miyVAb55BEEJF

Monitors: Acer Gaming Monitor 24" XFA240 bmjdpr 1920 x 1080 144Hz Refresh Rate 1ms Response Time AMD FREESYNC Technology with Height, Pivot, Swivel & Tilt (Display Port, HDMI/MHL, & DVI Port) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYHZ6R6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sjyVAb2BBS676

HOTAS: Logitech G Saitek X52 Pro Flight Contol System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZ1MQTL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_okyVAbPZ9H8N0

Side panel: Logitech G Saitek Farm Sim Vehicle Side Panel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1B2MJX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ElyVAbGR3K2HG

If anyone has experience with these monitors, which one is the best for the price with build quality, colors, etc?

[AOC G2460PF] (https://www.amazon.com/AOC-G2460PQU-Ultimate-Performance-Professional/dp/B00HY7PAUC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505149072&sr=8-1&keywords=AOC+G2460PQU)

[Acer XFA240 bmjdpr] https://www.amazon.com/Acer-XFA240-bmjdpr-FREESYNC-Technology/dp/B06ZYHZ6R6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505149080&sr=8-1&keywords=Acer+XFA240+bmjdpr)

[AOC G2460PQU] https://www.amazon.com/AOC-G2460PF-24-Inch-Professional-Monitor/dp/B01BV1XBEI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505149088&sr=8-1&keywords=AOC+G2460PF)

[ASUS MG248QR] (http://www.microcenter.com/product/480187/MG248QR_24_Full_HD_HDMI_FreeSync-Adaptive_Gaming_Monitor) This one i can get a student discount so i would get it for about the same price range as the other 3.

Thanks for any help you can give me!

27 inch with freesync https://www.amazon.com/Dell-D2719HGF-Response-Speakers-FreeSync/dp/B07J4SXNQ5/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=acer+144hz&qid=1554178076&s=gateway&sr=8-1

24 inch gsync verified compatible, I've had this one and its pretty good just the bezels arent the smallest https://www.amazon.com/Acer-XFA240-bmjdpr-Response-Technology/dp/B06ZYHZ6R6/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=acer+144hz&qid=1554178109&s=gateway&sr=8-2

24 inch curved freesync https://www.amazon.com/Acer-ED242QR-Abidpx-FREESYNC-Technology/dp/B07598HLB5/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=acer+144hz&qid=1554178109&s=gateway&sr=8-10

I would say that these 3 monitors are some of the best, if not the best that you could buy for 1080P gaming @144hz. I have owned all 3, and even used them back when I still had a GTX 1080 like you have. If you are on a budget, I would go with the Acer. If you have the money to spend and want an overall better monitor, then the Asus is the way to go. Not really a reason to buy the Zowie anymore IMO, for the price you might as well just spend a bit more and get the Asus (when I bought my Zowie, that current Asus model was not available). And trust me, you will not have a great overall experience playing 1440P BDO with a GTX 1080. Maybe if you have a 9th gen CPU it could be a little better. I have a GTX 2080 TI and I7 7700k and I can't pull 144fps/144hz in many places, especially not in NW/anything more than smallscale PVP.

Acer: https://www.amazon.com/Acer-XFA240-bmjdpr-Response-Technology/dp/B06ZYHZ6R6/ref=sr_1_4?crid=345SDKJPSUDDT&keywords=1080p+144hz+monitor&qid=1554732087&s=gateway&sprefix=1080p+144hz%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-4

Zowie:https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-Response-Equalizer-Vibrance-Adjustable/dp/B01H5KKQTM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1540566901&sr=8-6&keywords=144hz+1ms+monitor

Asus:https://www.amazon.com/1080p-Gaming-LED-Lit-Monitor-VG278Q/dp/B074JLD4HZ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540567234&sr=8-3&keywords=144hz+1ms+monitor&dpID=51EvWAQYIIL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Any reason not to get the slightly cheaper newer version?

https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Ultra-128GB-Micro-Adapter/dp/B073JYC4XM/

I have this one and it’s great

for the noctua fan mod u need the fan & 3d printed mount, as for the picopsu & gdemu here's few a links for them

​

noctua fan- https://www.ebay.com/itm/Noctua-NF-A4x10-5V-Premium-Quiet-Fan-3-Pin-5V-Version-40x10mm-Brown/322236820992?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

​

noctua 3d printed parts- https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dreamcast-Noctua-Fan-Mount-Kit/273766717721?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3Dff8d1a32c5074eb7addc96d4e62fda19%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D183832533802%26itm%3D273766717721%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

​

picopsu- https://www.ebay.com/itm/PicoDreamcast-V1-1-PicoPSU-mod-for-Sega-Dreamcast/273813870667?hash=item3fc094184b:g:gPwAAOSwozpcuhIZ

​

gdemu- https://www.ebay.com/itm/GDEMU-Optical-Drive-Board-Card-Repair-Part-V5-15-For-SEGA-DC-DreamcastHost-Game/333124384430?hash=item4d8fc2b6ae:g:eFUAAOSwASRckeF4

​

sandisk 128gb microsd- https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-128GB-microSDXC-Memory-Adapter/dp/B073JYC4XM

​

& a power adapter for the picopsu if u live in US- https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aukru-12V-2A-Power-Supply-Adapter-AC-to-DC-5-5mm-x-2-5mm-US-12V2A-5525-1-5m-LED/312698755511?hash=item48ce4c59b7:g:Z24AAOSw~RldKlhS

​

get everything i've listed & your good to go search google for the gdemu sd card maker tho to put your GDI or CDI dreamcast or personal GDI ripped games on your sd card to play

The Switch doesn't support external hard drives. You need a micro SD card.

A SanDisk Ultra is the usual recommendation. Whatever size your budget allows.

Amazon also has a similar deal a little bit more expensive but no $4.99 flat shipping

So I recently got a 128gb micro SD card (https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Ultra-128GB-Micro-Adapter/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=dp_ob_title_ce). When I put the micro SD card it, it says it must be formatted first and offers to do so. I choose to format the micro SD card, and then it says it's been formatting and will restart in 3 seconds. The system restarts, and I get the same message, my micro sd card needs to be formatted and offers to do it. It's weird because I'm not getting any sort of error code. It appears to format properly until the system restarts. This cycle just repeats. My switch software is fully up to date.

Unfortunately, this is not a good deal.

The same card is available for $19.99 at Amazon, and a similar card is available for $17.87 at Amazon.

I have an Acer E15 or something, gotta find exact model, that can run smite pretty well. It set meback around $500 dollars, and as long as you aren't requiring advanced graphics it should run fine at 70-80 fps. It also runs older titles like csgo and TF2.

Edit: It's 579$ on Amazon

I currently have the Acer XFA240, its works great for me, has 1ms Response Time, a somewhat small stand so it doesn't get in the way and has adjustable height and tilt/swivel. I would definitely recommend.


Edit: It also came with displayport cable which is pretty cool

How low you want? $155? $180? Now granted these are a smaller side of monitors much like my original post but I personally don't care about the size of the monitor. My desk isn't very large so it's not too far from my face so bigger is actually more of a pain.

Yes it can run Netflix and Youtube. The software for it is already a simple package but if you don't learn how to install it you might struggle to use it. It's not simple plug and play. It's Linux. That being said, RaspberryPi was designed to teach children how to use computers. You can do this. There is plenty of support because tons of people have come before you and asked all the questions. All the answers are already laid out so you won't need to make any more reddit posts to get it going. Just do it.

Here's the hardware kit:
https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY

Here's the software:
https://retropie.org.uk/

Edit: don't use wireless controllers. Any USB device will do.

CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 Complete Starter Kit - 32 GB Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_QI-2wb9A3S0AH

8bitdo SFC30 Wireless Bluetooth Controller Dual Classic Joystick for IOS / Android Gamepad - PC Mac Linux https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y0LUQFE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_KK-2wbVKCTTT9

And thousands of ROMs...

If i were to buy a kit on amazon would this be the right one?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/ref=psdc_3015426011_t1_B01C6EQNNK

also the usb thing is very confusing to me...

CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 Complete Starter Kit - 32 GB Edition
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aYlczb608NGEF

>>What hardware do I need to start running home assistant?

Learn from my experience and just pony up for a Raspberry Pi 3. I tried running HA for a while on an old Win7 laptop. Getting Python to run was a huge PITA. Then I tried running it with Docker on a Synology NAS. Nearly as bad. Then I purchased this CanaKit. A dream come true. A few days later I spent some quality time kicking myself in the rear for not having gone that route in the first place. SO MUCH BETTER.

I'm running Hass.io now and definitely recommend it for just about anyone... but later. First I'd suggest installing Hassbian because, although the water is a little deeper, you'll have easier root access, and you'll be able to learn the basics much more quickly. You may decide to keep that environment -- it's great. Or you may decide to move to Hass.io which, with the exception of enabling SSH, is really very easy. Just back up any .yaml files that you've customized, wipe the Pi's SD card, and install Hass.io. After booting a couple of times to get the "vanilla" environment initialized, put your .yaml files back, enable SSH server, Samba share, and maybe Bluetooth. You'll be back in business right where you left off.

Like I said, SSH wasn't exactly easy when I was first setting up Hass.io. But I documented the process I went through here, so maybe that will help.

Just get a Pi 3 through a standard channel (this is considered reputable by Retropie: https://thepihut.com/products/raspberry-pi-3-starter-kit or https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C6Q2GSY/ ), and follow this guide: https://github.com/RetroPie/RetroPie-Setup/wiki/First-Installation

Haven't built mine yet but everything is arriving today and I should be set.

$70 - Cannakit (Includes raspberry pi 3 and everything you need to set it up. You can gets things a little cheaper if you order them separately but this is simple and works for me) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C6Q2GSY

$10 - SNES Style USB Controller 2-pack (not necessary if you already have USB controllers) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KJS4ILY

$16 - Keyboard mouse for tv thingy (this is not a requirement but you need some form of USB keyboard and mouse to config things or you have to use SSH for everything) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KF9IVKC

So $96 total. A lot more than the $35 people try to sell you on raspberry pi's for but I think it will be a nice setup though could've gone cheaper. We'll see.

Overpriced. He built that using a $5 Pi Zero.

Personally, I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C6Q2GSY
It's about 10x more powerful and can play many more types of games. Has Bult-in WiFi and Ethernet.

Download RetroPie disk image from the official site.
There are a ton of videos out there to help you set it up.

I use my Xbox 360 Controllers.

https://github.com/retropie/retropie-setup/wiki/First-Installation

So far, so good. I recommend the CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 Complete Starter Kit - 32GB Edition for $69.99 with free Prime shipping from Amazon. It's the latest model and includes all the important parts. Just add keyboard, mouse and monitor.
 
When setting things up, I found these links to be useful:
 
PIVX-related
How to update your PIVX linux wallet to the new version using the command line
How to: Staking with the command-line wallet
 
Raspberry Pi and Linux-related
How to give your Raspberry Pi a Static IP Address - UPDATE
How to clear bash history completely?
Also, you should Google how to setup a headless Raspberry Pi which involves turning on SSH and/or VNC
 
Good luck!

$249 on Amazon. Shttps://www.amazon.com/BenQ-XL2411-Professional-1920x1080-Response/dp/B01H5KKQTM

Obligatory 'this is my monitor and I love it': https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-XL2411P-Response-eQualizer-Adjustable/dp/B01H5KKQTM

Saw that it wasn't suggested yet so I thought I'd throw it in there. Good image quality, good aesthetics and a super sturdy stand. Plus you get that BenQ street cred.

https://www.amazon.com/Acer-E5-575G-57D4-15-6-Inches-Notebook-i5-7200U/dp/B01LD4MGY4/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1500596301&sr=1-2&keywords=acer+e+15
Has a decent build and battery life, should manage your needs with a 940MX.

https://www.amazon.com/Acer-E5-575G-57D4-15-6-Inches-Notebook-i5-7200U/dp/B01LD4MGY4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496025793&sr=8-1&keywords=ACER+256GB

even has a NVIDIA GeForce 940MX.

That would be better for sure, add one of these and you'll be good to go. Or save some money and get the lite version.

And then to really get a nice SOHO network going add an Edgerouter to replace that C7

You're better off buying your own router and access point (preferably two discrete devices). The combo devices (modem/router/AP) provided by ISPs are typically disposable low-quality junk that they can afford to buy by the hundreds of thousands, and toss in the trash when they break.

From a security standpoint, it is "best practice" to have your own router and relegate the ISP modem/router to "bridge mode" (where it is acting as only a modem, with the firewall functions disabled). The HH3000 is Bell's device, managed by Bell. By plugging things into it, Bell gets to see what your home LAN consists of. With everything connected to your own router/firewall device, Bell doesn't get to see all of the other devices that live in your home LAN.

Put your router somewhere where it's easily accessible (for inspection of lights, troubleshooting, resets, etc). Put the access point in a central location in the household, and run a cable to it. If coverage is inadequate, considering buying a second AP and placing it in the dead/weak signal zone.

Run cables to as many non-mobile devices as possible; TVs, streaming media boxes, game consoles, etc. Save your wifi bands for mobile devices that actually need wifi (ie. laptops, tablets, phones), and put them on the 5GHz (not 2.4GHz) band.

A pair of dedicated appliances like the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite and AP AC Lite will give you more flexibility and better coverage than any ISP combo device.

As /u/nonades mentioned, /r/homelab is a good place to ask as well.

My setup:

• pfSense on a dual-NIC fanless Atom
  
• Netgear GS724Tv4 managed switch
  
• Synology DS216Play with 6TB drives
  
• I'll soon buy a Ubiquiti AC Pro or Lite to replace my old Linksys E3000 running Tomato, but I'm able to get 16MB/s samba throughput so there's not much rush here.

I would not suggest using a bunch of consumer routers for such a situation. Instead, use some dedicated hardware. Depending on how technical you are, you might be better off hiring this work out, but if I were in your shoes, I'd be looking at either a gaggle of Ubiquiti's UAP-AC-Lite WAPs, their UAP-AC-IW, or a combination, depending on where they'd need to be installed.

They are controlled via Ubiquiti's free UniFi Controller software, which can be run via their Cloud Key, on a RasPi 2 or 3, or a Windows / Linux / OSX system. You can also configure basic settings through the iOS or Android apps if you don't wish to use their Controller software. With the UniFi Controller software, all settings for all access points are in one UI. You can easily add / remove WAPs as needed.

They are PoE powered, so you don't have to have power run to whichever locations you decide to install them (a limitation you will have with a bunch of consumer routers), and they come with the PoE injector needed. You can also power them from a PoE switch, but be aware that the UAP-AC-Lite doesn't use 802.1at/af PoE specs -- it uses a 24v passive PoE, and there aren't many switches (that I'm aware of) that support it. If you go this route, you might look at the UAP-AC-Pro, which won't have this issue, but is a bit more expensive. :)

You're building a new house, with a brand new network -- don't cheap out on this part, as it'll only bring you misery in the end (especially if you have a WAF to deal with). :D

This one is the bestseller on Amazon, but when I bought the BF a Pi I got him the barebones Pi by itself so he could build his own case and stuff. Depends on what your brother's interested in doing, I imagine.

1. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/
   
2. https://retropie.org.uk/news/
   
   You're welcome.

I'd say stop focusing on certifications and start focusing on learning how to do things.

How extensive is your Home Lab?

Have you built out any VM's yet?
Have you built a Windows domain yet?

Have you built a Squid proxy on Linux yet? (Not that Squid is super-useful anymore, but its a decent project with clear results.)

Have you built a pfSense firewall yet?

Have you bought a Raspberry Pi yet (the cheapest Linux Server on the planet)?

When you apply for that next-level job you have in mind, in the interview I am not going to ask you questions that might appear on a certification exam. I am going to ask you questions related to real-world scenarios of problems I think you are likely to encounter in the job under discussion. And I need to see how well you are ready to deal with them.

-----

"I can't afford any of those things..."

If you are trying to learn everything on just one computer or laptop, that's certainly a problem.
But if you have a second PC, just a $300-500 clunker, it changes everything.

CentOS Linux is free.
KVM Virtual Machine manager is free.

Linux Foundation - Intro to Linux for Free
Linux Foundation - Online Course Catalog - some free some paid
DigitalOcean Linux Tutorials
Docker Self-Paced Training


Windows Server 2012R2 Evaluation is free.
Windows 10 Professional Evaluation is free.

Microsoft Virtual Academy
Microsoft MSDN Product Evaluation Center -- Free Downloads
Microsoft TechNet Product Evaluation Center -- More Free Downloads


If you only have a single computer, and cannot afford a second computer, you still have options:

Amazon Web Services has a free offering for you to build virtual machines to play with:

https://aws.amazon.com/free/

If you want something a little more permanent, Amazon Light Sail now lets you build low-end virtual servers for as low as $5/month:

https://amazonlightsail.com/pricing/

Microsoft also has some free offerings for virtual servers:

Microsoft Azure Cloud Services Free Trial Center
Microsoft Training Info Center
Microsoft Ignite Training Convention Video Center
Microsoft MSDN Video Training Portal

-----

In my opinion:

If you think you are likely to apply for some Government or Contractor positions that require security clearances, go ahead and complete the Security+.

But I think you might want to focus a little more time on combining technologies into scenarios where you learn how to perform business operations tasks, rather than add another narrow-focused skillset.

I also encourage you to make yourself gain comfort with Linux.
YES: you will need to learn a whole new world of syntax and terminology, and learn to do more with syntax and less with icons.
But the benefits are real, and significant.

Buy one of these:

Amazon: Raspberry Pi 3 Complete Kit $75

That's a complete Linux Server. Just add a USB keyboard, mouse & HDMI monitor.


Watch two or three of these videos, and observe that all of the biggest players working on the sexiest of technology projects are all doing it on Linux:

USENIX Site Reliability Enginering Convention 2014 Presentations - Free
USENIX Site Reliability Enginering Convention 2015 Presentations - Free
USENIX Large Installation System Administration Conference 2014 Presentations - Free
USENIX Large Installation System Administration Conference 2015 Presentations - Free


-----

> [MCSA]... But again, how far can I really go trying to learn this with home equipment? I'm sure I could install a Server OS, but I don't know if I can play with the inner workings on a home network enough to familiarize myself with the content.

If you have a small home server, you can install Windows Server 2012 R2 evaluation on it, and add the Hyper-V service, and run at least 2 virtual machines on it.

The Server could become a domain controller. Then you add a guest server and a guest client using Windows 10 evaluation and another Windows server eval license.

Now you join them to a domain together and start writing GPO policies and playing in the Forest...

That can also be done in Azure cloud with virtual machines. The challenge is the short duration of the free period in Azure cloud.

WiFi range extenders are not an optimal solution for high bandwidth uses like streaming, or for use in gaming since they can add some latency to the connection.

A floor plan of the house would help to see what you are dealing with here. And how many Square feet? Without this info, everything below is a guess.

I would do the following. You may not want to make such an investment.

• Remove the range extenders
  
• Shut down all WiFi from your cable modems
  
• Don't install, but place a Ubiquity Access Point in a central part of the home as a test.
  
  Did the network performance improve everywhere and is working how you want it? Can you wire it in that location? Paying an electrician a $100 might be great if needed. The install will be for a single CAT5e or CAT6 cable. The power for the AP is sent from what is called a power injector that comes with the AP through the network cable. This is how I did it in my home.
  
  If it did not work well, and assuming you live in a 2 story ranch style/wide house, I would do the following:
  
  
• Install the Ubiquity AP in one corner of the house on the first floor.
  
• Run a cable for a second Ubiquity to the second floor, opposite side.
  
• Run the Ubiquity controller on your PC. This will allow you to use the same SSID (WiFi network ID) for both APs. As you roam throughout the house your devices will seamlessly jump from one AP to the other without changing networks. This is what large offices that are well setup do. And Ubiquity allows a homeowner to do the same for a lot less $$$.
  
  Good luck!

The Edgerouter Lite is quite a popular choice capable of handling Gigabit speeds.

If you don't have wireless APs, also grab one or two of the AP-AC Lites.

Use a WiFi Scanner app to find the best 2.4 / 5 ghz channels in your apartment. For 2.4 it's channels 1/6/11 @ 20 MHz. For 5 GHz basically just to find the least congested space.

If both 2.4 and 5 is heavily congested then maybe something like an Ubiquiti AC Lite running in DFS 5 GHz frequencies may help out a lot.

Yeah you're right. Here's one. Doesn't look quite as comfy as the Nostromo though. Seems like something like this would be awesome.

I would highly recommend the Asus wireless routers. Great featureset, you can set up file sharing, guest networks, printer sharing. Super easy to do a basic set up as well.

If you want the latest and greatest in terms of the new wireless standards, this one is the way to go.

Slightly older but still will work for absolutely everything you would want to do would be this one here.

I highly recommend a router that supports third party firmware based on open source Linux/WRT routers. Why?

Because no matter how good your hardware is, if the software sucks it will perform badly under pressure. Average hardware with great software will yield great results. Most software made by the router companies suck, because it isn't tested properly and is often just slightly tailored for each model. They dont' put a lot of effort into it, because that is not what a consumer sees when they buy one (unless you are business user buying business class routers).

For a $100, I recommend this slightly older router that I use myself that comes with WRT software directly from the manufacturer (less setup and easier for you!):

http://www.amazon.com/RT-N66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-N900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B006QB1RPY/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459468524&sr=1-5

4 people streaming regularly on a $40 router is probably asking for reboots and slowdowns. I don't own any of the routers on this review site, but you might want to look that over. Their pick for best cheap router is the TP-LINK TL-WDR3600

You have to think of routers like little computers that literally route network signals to each of your devices within your home. Just like a computer, the cheaper routers have slower processors and less RAM, which can slow things down pretty quickly when multiple people are doing bandwidth-intensive things like streaming.

I'd seriously consider upping your budget if you want a smooth streaming experience in your house.

Personally, I have a ASUS RT-N66U and it's an amazing router, and I've never had a single issue with it, but it's well above your price range.

I personally find the ASUS RT-N66U to be an excellent router.

You can sometimes find it for as low as 100-105.

The most important question is how much stress do you actually need to put on the router.

As in:

How many devices?

Are they primarily using 2.4 or 5GHz

Are they b/g/n or ac (ac is highly unlikely since its so new). This router does not support ac...though i wouldn't be too concerned with that for at least another 2 years or so.

In all honesty most routers under $40-50 can handle most Perk needs — as well as your other household devices.

Though I always say, its better to spend some more now...than later.

• you need bluetooth adapter this is the recommended
  
• buy steam games you want now, the steam sale end in 2 hours
  
• buy extension cables for the bluetooth, usb and hdmi cables

>Do I need to purchase a 4.0 or better adapter

Yes, it won't work with 3.0 adapters.

There's the Plugable BT 4.0 adapter that has official Linux support, although I haven't tested it yet on Linux.

EDIT: Can confirm the Plugable adapter works in Linux with the bluetooth Xbox one controlller.

For my ncase, I use a h75 on my 6600k and a h55 with a kraken g10 on my gtx 1080. It's all pretty dang quiet, not loud enough for me to comment on. I tied the h75 for my cpu to its own fan curve and the rest of the fans are on a Silverstone pwm splitter.

So my 2 case fans, 120mm h55 fan and the fan for the kraken g10 are on the same curve. When my gpu throttles up, the case fans do too. It's perfect like it is and I'm not gonna touch it.

Fans:

1 120 noctua in the bottom front slot pulling air into the kraken fan for gpu.

1 92mm slim noctua for rear of case.

2 noctua 120s for each aio cooler.

You can use a good air cooler but in my case my cpu never really gets warm enough to throttle high enough to make much noise. I like the look of the dual fans on each aio rad when you pop the side off :)


Here's the fan hub, it's really small, I tuck it into the front of case above front of gpu.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VNW556I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483058552&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=silverstone+pwm+fan+hub&dpPl=1&dpID=41yV5kjgjRL&ref=plSrch

Yes it can.

Would a 128gb microsd be big enough to get some major games digitally (such as Smash whenever that may come, Splatoon, ARMS)? If so, would this one be a good choice?

1. The price of 120GB has fallen recently, and one can be had for ~$40 USD. This is less than one 3DS game, and while other SD cards are dirt cheap, $40 is not unreasonable by any means. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010Q57S62/ref=mp_s_a_1_2/187-9727977-9633106?qid=1464222391&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=128gb+sd
   
   
2. http://github.com/Plailect/Guide/wiki is a VERY noob friendly guide. Hand-holdingly so, for better or worse.
   
   
3. Most people are generally helpful so long as you ask the right questions. As for information - a lot of it is meant for devs rather than users, but is public unlike Vita/PSP/WiiU/etc. I'll agree we need more newbie guides, but anyone with technical knowledge could distill the docs and write one now. Most devs are too busy writing code and pushing it to github, or answering questions in forum topics. :/
   
   TAKE THAT!
   
   (God, I love Phoenix Wright. Anyways. :P)

Good catch. The SD card in the link has 48 MB/s listed in the specs, but the equivalent on amazon lists 80 MB/s. I have a hard time differentiating between all of Sandisk's cards - I kinda wish they would simplify the roster or streamline the site.
https://amazon.com/gp/product/B010Q57S62

is this better?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010Q57S62/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Heres the one to get... Sorry /u/culady.

Edit: and /u/piexil

It goes a little above budget, but, they are both very solid devices, and recommended like crazy here.

Go with a separate router and AP. You get better placement for the access point and a router that can handle a lot more than 150MBps.

Ubiquiti AP-AC-Lite

Edgerouter Lite

If you want a not as capable, but still fast and cheaper router, Edgerouter-X

Hey man, I don't know much about the SanDisk Extreme II 240GB that's listed there for 139.99, but I know Samsung SSDs are usually highly recommended here and on /r/buildapc. Its on sale right now for the same rate here . If that's your price range, I'd recommend going for that. I got mine last year for $180 and its worth every goddamn cent. Plus the Samsung Magician software that comes with it is pretty sweet.

$119.99 on amazon

Will probably be even cheaper on Black Friday / Cyber Monday...

LINKS FOR EVERYTHING

2 Way SLI - 780 Ti Superclocked edition

Intel i7 3820 3.6GHz

Corsair Hydro Series Extreme Performace Liquid CPU Cooler H100i

2 packs of Corsair Dominator Platinum 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600MHz (PC3 12800) Memory

Gigabyte GA-X79-UP4 Motherboard

Samsung 840 EVo 250GB SSD

Beats Pro Over-Ear

Male White Fiberglass Mannequin Head

Oculus Rift Development Kit 2

Deluxe Triple Monitor Stand Desk Clamp

Seagate 3TB Barracude

Corsaie Air Series SP120mm Quiet Edition

Rosewill 1000Watt Bronze Certified PSU

NZXT Phantom 630 Gunmetal Edition

Three Acer H236HLbid 23" LCD IPS monitors

Wallart USA Panorama New York

Blue Snowball Microphone

Flexible Gooseneck Microphone Holder

Microphone table clamp

Razer Lycosa Mirror special Edition

Razer Abyssus Optical PC Gaming Mouse

Xbox one controller

IKEA Tables (both 73" and 96" are used)
IKEA Table legs (8 used)

The only thing I've picked up is this SSD from Amazon (comes with FC4!)

I recently swapped from a single SATA3 physical disc to a pair of SATA3 solid state discs (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E3W1726/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) in RAID0. KSP load time did not change much, seems to be processor bound rather than memory or IO bound.

Other apps load incredibly fast. Especially warcraft.

I noticed you didn't mention an SSD. You will absolutely need to get one of those, these days there's no excuse not to with a budget of $1k. I would recommend the Samsung 840 Evo. I have the older 840 and I've recommended Evos for both my friend's recent builds, they've had no issues with them at all so far.

I would install your OS and a couple most-played games on the SSD. Make sure to move your documents and temp folder to the HDD. Don't forget to install whatever programs you use on the secondary drives because the SSD will fill up fast if you don't.

Other than that, this is a strong build. Others here will be able to give better recommendations on any changes to the Mobo/CPU, but the most important thing would be the SSD.

I'd say get an ASUS N550JK and put a Samsung 840 Evo into it. You'd have a really high quality multimedia laptop with a beautiful IPS display, a quad-core i7, 8GB RAM, and a fast SSD for well under budget.

If you want more portability and a higher res display with more RAM and battery life, the Dell XPS 15 is also right up your alley. It weighs only 4.4lbs, is .7" thin, and can get up to 11 hours of battery life. It has a 512GB SSD and 16GB RAM with a 15.6" 3200x1800 IPS display.

You're saying you want 60FPS at 1440p but the max resolution on that monitor is 1080p at 144hz. If you want what you wrote you want, you're saying you prefer a monitor with a max resolution of 2560x1440. You'll only get a 60hz one at that price range (this one, for example). Monitors that are 1440p at 144hz will be more expensive

Here is an Acer 1440p 144hz 25" monitor. Would this be the one? I'm in need of a new monitor as well, been eyeing the LG ultrawide 1440p ones but they're a tad out of my budget at the moment at $700+. Thanks for the suggestion!

Ive got this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QS0AKVK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As others have mentioned, youre gonna want to go with a 1440p monitor over a 4k unless you have a monstrously fast PC. Running games at less than native resolution can look shitty and running 4k at a decent framerate is still tough unless you have one of those brand new nVidia cards.

I have a 970 and can run most stuff at 1440p60 on high or ultra settings.

Pioneer XDP100 often goes down to $300 on Amazon, and sometimes down to $250. It does everything you want it to do, and has all the bells and whistles you could want in a DAP (Android for streaming audio, 2 micro SDXC slots, ES9018K2M DAC, zero floor noise even with finicky IEMs, great SQ, DSD capable, supports MQA (sorry /u/Arve) has bluetooth, has a great UI (essentially Android) and plays video too.

Its only major con is that it has decent (but not great) battery life. Also it puts out a max of 75mW per channel at 32 ohms, so obviously not for those high impedance headphones.

Why do I say it is a bargain? I bought mine for full price when it first came out after running through a bunch of Sony internet-enabled DAPs (didnt really love any of them) and I still think it was absolutely worth it. I have two of these loaded up in the SD card slots, so my storage capacity is 432GB, which is more than enough for my needs. I use one SD card to store Tidal + Spotify files offline, another for my music collection, and the on-board memory for a movie or two in case I get bored.

The reason the XDP100 is discounted is because it is now discontinued and replaced by the XDP300. It is exactly the same as the Onkyo DPX1, except the Onkyo is balanced and has twice the output power.

You will need to be patient, but if the XDP100 goes down to $250 again at that price it isn't a deal, it's a steal .

This one

Holy shit, you're right. I had the price of the 128 GB in mind.

The 200 GB SanDisk MicroSD card (the only legit one that exists) is $100.

Believe http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/ is basically what you want, connects it to a PWM slot on your motherboard, then it gets from power from a SATA connector. It will then replicate the voltage to the fans on the splitter, and use one of them for the RPM reading

This is exactly the place to ask this. I can point you in the right direction on these things, but you'll need some prices, details, or something if you want more advice.

Yes mechanical keyboard. Its like the peripheral upgrade equivalent of an SSD, everything about it is better, and you'll never go back.

HERE is a /r/MechanicalKeyboards stickied reason why. There is no way I could explain it any better. Spend a little time in that subreddit. The stickied post up top of it will help you pick your board. Then check out /r/mechmarket since durability is one of the nicest advantages.

THIS post is all you need to get started on speaker set-ups. /r/zeos is just great and covers all price ranges. Anything less than that, it will just come down to looks and reading reviews. Unless you can cop some of the Klipsch Promedias on CraigsList or something. I got a set for $25 and it is the best deal of my life. Things sound fantastic and I can't even take em above 50% or touch the sub volume without waking the neighbors.

As for wireless headphones, no idea. I don't mind the wires for the audio quality provided.

The Klipsch 2.1 for $150 sounds better than the Logitech imo.

What is your purpose? Is this for practicing at home? Do your neighbors live close by or need to keep the volume low? Do you need speakers you can use for small get togethers or even small house parties?

​

These are monitor speakers. Monitor speakers are designed to sound really good for exactly one person in one small spot in the room very close to the speakers. That's why it's a "Monitor" a monitor like a computer monitor is generally for one person at close distances. Monitors aren't going to work well for a house party (think of 20 people trying to gather around a computer video monitor trying to watch a movie) but are probably OK for < 5 people hanging out in one room.

​

If that is what you need then this will fit your desires. It won't have a lot of bass though, which may be an advantage if you need to keep your volumes low however it is a disadvantage for most DJ's to have limited bass.

​

If you really want monitors personally I think the best price to performance is the JBL LSR-305 monitors they are the current king of Monitor speakers IMHO and fairly priced.

​

If you need a more general purpose DJ speakers that cost around the same, but have significantly more bass and can be used for get togethers and house parties up to say 20-30 people then I recommend Logitech Z-623. The Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 THX are a good choice also but not sure if available in Europe.

​

Hey /u/PriceZombie what are the stats on the Logitech G-13?

This is not uncommon. So much that this exists:

• Razer Tartarus
  
• Logitech G13
  
  
  As for a Software Solution
  
  Add your game to Steam, and map your controller's functions to whatever you want. Here's how to do it.
  
  Otherwise, you might want to check out Joy2Key or Controller Companion.

There's no wifi adapters that'll work with Xbox one since there's no drivers for it...

And instead of running a 60 feet wire, why not just get a powerline like this?

It'll just run the signal through the copper power lines in your house and come out as a ethernet connection on the other adapter to plug into your console.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA2010KIT/dp/B00AWRUIY4

I use this one and it’s pretty good. I only get 20 mbps up/down with it when I usually get 100 mbps up/down wired directly to my router but ping is pretty consistently good

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA2010KIT/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503496948&sr=8-3&keywords=ethernet+powerline+adapter

I recommend getting this over the Wireless Adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUIY4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1490119089&sr=1-2&refinements=p_89%3ATP-Link&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=41UExpKbEkL&ref=plSrch

This works very well for me

If you think the problem is with your wifi, try picking up a pair of power line adapters. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUIY4/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1418561737&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

For $20, they let you run Ethernet over your power lines. I use several in my old home in the North End and they work great for me.

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Bluetooth-Adapter-Raspberry-Compatible/dp/B009ZIILLI

Good reviews/ratings/price/documentation

Buy a USB Bluetooth adapter. That's what I did. Something like this. I would keep searching for something cheaper. Maybe ebay?

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Bluetooth-Adapter-Raspberry-Compatible/dp/B009ZIILLI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498900432&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=bluetooth+adapter&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Onvian-Bluetooth-Receiver-Transfer-Wireless/dp/B01LH6RPBW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1498900432&sr=8-5&keywords=bluetooth+adapter

Looks like there's a wifi/bluetooth combo available too.
https://www.amazon.com/Fenvi-Wireless-2-4Ghz-300Mbps-5Ghz-867Mbps-Bluetooth/dp/B00Y2DU8T4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1498900554&sr=8-6&keywords=bluetooth+card+pc

Again, I just did a quick search, did not compare specs, prices, or compatibility.

Just get a Bluetooth adapter for your PC. They are very cheap and will work just fine.

It sounds to me like your Bluetooth speaker is in pairing mode based on the flashing led and will not work with the USB in that state. If you can enable the USB then you should be all set but it's possible the USB is just for charging.

An example of a BT adapter - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZIILLI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Rcbtyb4G6XCC1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Is what I use, works great. I've had to go through a few bluetooth adapters and this has been the best one for keyboards/mice/controllers for me. Works fine with the XB1 controller for me.

A lot of the other ones would drop keyboard input or want you to install some software crap. This is just plug n play.

Plugable
works well with the new Xbox S controller - though I only connect one controller at a time.

I'm not sure if you can get your hands on a Raspberry Pi Zero W, but that has on-board bluetooth and wifi. It really cuts down on the clutter.

If not, I use this one on my Pi2. 0 issues.

I use a DS4 + InputMapper w/ regular bluetooth usb adapter w/ perfect results (this one infact: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Has worked flawlessly for over a year w/ no signal drops/interruption.

I went with this one, but it looks like the price has gone up since. I think any with BT 4.0 support will work though.

I don't even see why you would do the latter, do you have more than one ethernet connection? It's built to work from the router though.

If you're not willing to run a cable from your router to the TV you could consider getting those devices that expand your network through the power network. (basically plug one device in a power socket in the room where the router is and the other in a socket close to where you're going to use the Steam Link (random example)

Why don't you use a power line adapter? It uses the electric system to bring the ethernet signal around the house.

I have three of them and my siblings and me play online games at the same time without any problems. Here in Italy we have really bad 20 megabits connections and our ping is around 50ms anyway.

EDIT: I use this model.

I was referring to WiFi channels - but that might not help if your router is a problem or you are not getting enough bars.

If you don't mind spending few bucks - I recommend buying a Powerline Adapter like this one .

Basically you get a pair of adapters with Ethernet port each. You plug one adapter in wall power plug near the router and attach a Ethernet cable between it and the router. The second adapter does the same but in the room where your PC is - it basically transmits upto 200Mbps over your power lines. It is hassle free if your house isn't too old.

something like this you mean?

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA2010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1463407217&sr=8-5&keywords=ethernet+powerline+adapter

I've got one of these in my house. For some reason I didn't think they'd work here, but if they do that's a very reasonable alternative. Thanks!

Powerline adapter is what you would want. Its just plug and use, easy as that, won't cost you no more than $50 also. My modem locates on the first floor and my Xbox sits on 2nd story of my house but thanks to the adapter, my Xbox is now wired in. The only thing is you need to plug the adapters straight into a wall socket, not in a surge or extender. This is the one that I use personally.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA2010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408842952&sr=8-2&keywords=powerline+adapter

In terms of speed it is unlikely that you have 600Mbps Internet, so think of that as an advertising number. It makes people think "this one is faster" when it reality you likely don't have Internet speeds that support speeds that fast. I linked a TP-Link 200Mbps powerline adapter below. It is about half the cost compared to the TP-Link adapter you linked. The speed is up to 200Mbps, which most people don't have.

In the US the average Internet speeds are 55Mbps/18Mbps, so I would expect this to work nicely for you.
__
TP-Link 200Mbps ($24.95/$21.21 Used) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUIY4

Agreed. But I got these: TP-LINK TL-PA2010KIT AV200 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 200Mbps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_PW-Aub1M4D0MW

You don't even need to spend 50. I'll link the one I have below. I love this thing! When I used to work tech support for Square-Enix, I used to recommend powerline adapters all the time. Basically in layman's terms, powerline adapters run your internet signal through the wiring in your house. You plug one side in by the router and plug it in via an Ethernet cord, then you plug the other adapter by your ps4 and hook it up via Ethernet. I jumped from like 15 mbps to 40. It requires zero set up other than that. I even have mine running to another router I have on my desk, so I have great wireless signal in my room. The ps4 unfortunately has the same wireless card as some of the Windows tablets. It was a huge step down from the ps3.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA2010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1416115267&sr=1-2&keywords=powerline+adapter

Your build is amazing, the only issue i see here is from the 'Wireless network adapter'. Think about it, you have this workhorse of a PC that can do anything, play any game, render/compress anything. However we are throttling it by purchasing a cheap $10.00 'WiFi USB Adapter'. If you plan on playing games you need a hard line connection, if you cannot get a hardline connection from your PC to your Router, use this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA2010KIT/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1500930653&sr=1-3&keywords=powerline
Its called a "PowerLine" its the middle of the road between WiFi and a hard-line connection, its easily your best bet,

Here is a video explaining what a "PowerLine" is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sue1Zvmh8JA

> My folks doesnt want me punching holes in their newly built house.

If you get AT&T and they have to bring a new line inside the house, they'll have to drill whatever holes they need AND you would need to run an Ethernet cable from the AT&T modem into the attic, and then into the wall into your room and you'd have to cut a hole into the wall and patch the cable in, well if you want ethernet. I had to do something similar for a friend's apartment and put one of these in the wall: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F15CKQQ/

OR you can buy some powerline adapters and see if that works to bring internet to your room. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA2010KIT/dp/B00AWRUIY4/

Running ethernet cables in the attic is much easier in a 1 story house, you just have to watch your footing and only step on the rafters, otherwise you'll fall through the ceiling. If you're in a 2 story house then good luck, not happening.


Powerline adapters are probably your best bet.

You could always try a power line adapter

Here is the one I use

I had the same problem. I bought a Powerline adapter, specifically this one. It's the best thing ever if your router is in a different room.

Get these: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA2010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1422128425&sr=1-2&keywords=powerline+adapter

You hook one up to an outlet by your PS4 and another in an outlet by your router, connect the ethernet cables and then you've got a wired connection without having to run a 100 ft ethernet cable across your house. I couldn't play with my friends on Destiny using wifi a few months ago, but then I got these and they work great.

Don't re-wire your phone plugs to be Ethernet unless they are all home-run (meaning each jack goes to the basement, and not daisy-chained together) Also, I would only consider this if they are CAT5e runs (not CAT5 or CAT3, or simply phone wire)

You could use any of these other options...

• EnGenius EAP600 in bridge mode - it connects to your WiFi, then gives you an Ethernet jack out to connect your TV/DVD/XBox, you could even go EAP600 > Small Ethernet switch > multiple devices
  
  
• Ethernet extender over any 2-pair (even crappy phone wiring) http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-VDSL2-Ethernet-Extender-Single/dp/B002CLKFTG
  If you have more than one device on the far end, use a switch: VDSL2Extender > Small Ethernet switch > multiple devices
  
  
• Ethernet over coax: http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG (warning, will not work when DirectTV is on the Coax line or some bi-directional cable systems, requires good splitters, better to use with an isolated Coax line not used for antenna or cable system at all)
  
  
• Ethernet over powerline (last resort, could have bad performance based on noisy appliances) http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA2010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUIY4
  
  

If you're able to, I'd recommend using a powerline adapter. It's essentially allowing for a wired connection through outlets.
I use it because I'm so far from my router and went from ~10 on wireless to the ~20 I'm paying for.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUIY4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500433377&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=tp+link&dpPl=1&dpID=41UExpKbEkL&ref=plSrch

Same price on Amazon if you have Prime for free 2-day shipping. Or just, you know, gift cards to use.

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-EVO-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7TE250BW/dp/B00E3W1726/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395859043&sr=8-2&keywords=samsung+840+evo

A 250GB Samsung EVO

The EVO is the most popular SSD right now, striking a perfect balance between price, speed, and reliability. A cheaper option is a Crucial M500 which is still pretty good, but not as fast.

EDIT: Btw these are $10-$20 cheaper on Amazon, which is why I linked there, sorry.

For example, I want to buy 10 of these SSD from Amazon. But they only allow 4.

Edit 1: Never mind. I just edited my cart to 10 and it let me do that. I was being retarded.
Edit 2: Nope. I got excited for no reason. Wouldn't let me buy more than 4.

it'd have to be pretty fucking cheap, you can get a 250GB Samsung EVO 840 for $140 from amazon. i mean, if you can pick it up for less than $100 then MAYBE, but i'd go with a more reputable brand.

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-EVO-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7TE250BW/dp/B00E3W1726

Well you can't upgrade your GPU so don't worry about that factor. As for RAM and SSD, both will definitely provide a boost in responsiveness, but that assumes everything else is operating normally. Your comments about the MacBook's recent laggy performance may indicate an issue.

As per /u/Sir_not_sir's suggestion, remove the bottom case and check for dust buildup on the fans. Here are iFixit instructions on doing that. But be careful if you're using canned air. You can use it to blow dust out of the area surrounding the fan, but don't use it in such a way that the air stream turns the fan bades, as that can damage the fans.

Another factor is that your model of MacBook Pro is widely reported as suffering from GPU failures, with lots of owners seeing issues. I have the same model, and was working for Apple at the time of purchase. We saw several models come in for repair for various issues early on, and noticed with all of them that they had way too much thermal paste on the CPU and GPU. My coworkers and I who had purchased the 2011 models all spent a night removing the logic boards, cleaning, and then reapplying the correct amount of paste. None of us have had the issues reported recently [knock on wood]. So that might be one area to look into, although don't do it if you're not comfortable with computer repair; see if you can find a local service provider (Apple itself won't do it for you).

As for the upgrades, you don't want to buy something and discover that your problems were due to an unrelated hardware failure. So what you may want to try is to find a retailer that accepts returns on the SSD and RAM (most companies will charge a restocking fee on opened items, somewhere around 15 percent, but call ahead to companies like Other World Computing, explain the situation, and ask if they can make an exception on their return policy). That way you can try to upgrade and see if things improve. If not, you're not stuck with expensive components, as you won't be able to use either the RAM or SSD if you end up buying a new MacBook Pro.

I have a 512GB Samsung 840 EVO and 16GB of OWC RAM in my 2011 MBP, and it still runs like a champ for just about everything other than intensive video encoding/rendering. If you can sort out the performance and heat issue, yours should have no problem getting you through the rest of school.

You can always use the SSD alongside a HDD. OS goes to SSD, with some other stuff like browsers, and some games. Other stuff like videos and music goes to HDD.

And a 250GB Samsung Evo is $130 right now, well worth for the huge improvement.

If you decide to try an SSD to replace the slow 5200rpm hard drive that came in that iMac, I'd recommend checking out the Samsung 840 Evo SSD. Best bang for your buck and an SSD should definitely speed things up.

250GB

500GB

SSD's are known to slow down with decreased performance as they fill up, ive heard estimates that one should keep around 20% free space for optimal speed. So I guess you can choose between everything being a bit slower or having a faster os and slower skyrim. I would personally think you will be fine if you dont go too overboard with it.
With the price of ssd's at the moment you could even try and pick up a 128gb one for skyrim pretty cheap
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE250BW/dp/B00E3W1726/ref=lp_1292116011_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1412574241&sr=1-1

I have the Mid 2010 13" MBP as well. I threw a Crucial M4 in it almost 2 years ago and it blows my mind how smoothly the computer still runs. The only other thing I've replaced is the battery. I honestly think this computer will continue to run this smoothly for another year or two. I'm so incredibly happy with it after 4 years.

I cannot recommend this enough. For less than $150 your computer will be so much faster you will hate yourself for not upgrading sooner.

Some suggestions to trim the fat:

• Replace the H100i with a NH-D15. It does better in cooling benchmarks, and offers quieter fans, and brings down the price $20.
  
  
• Vengance Pro ram is kind of overpriced, you can get the same thing for $25 cheaper.
  
  
• You can also save $100 by settling for a 240GB SSD, which should be more than enough to install your OS and games on. Heck, I have a 1TB + 240GB SSD, and I only use the SSD. The extra space you can just put on your HDD, if you do manage to overfill.
  
  
• You can save $100 by purchasing a 980 ACX 2.0, or $60 by purchasing a 980 ACX SC. The SC is by stock clocked higher than the Windforce, if you're not planning to custom OC.

I've heard really good things about the Samsung Evo 840 and it seems pretty affordable. Here's a link: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-250GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE250BW/dp/B00E3W1726

Why isn't he recommending the Samsung 840 EVO - it's cheaper than the SanDisk SSDs? Is it not suitable for hackintosh's?


120GB ($99.99): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3W15P0

250GB ($176.99): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3W1726

samsung 850 pro

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LF10KTE/ref=twister_B00M0QYEWC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

my friend used the 840 evo in his and it works flawless also!

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-250GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE250BW/dp/B00E3W1726

This looks like a great starter build! Allthough your build will more than likely fit into a small tower case so if you want some extra space you could change it, allthough if you keep it, extra space gives better cooling so you could also keep it, your choise there.

Very nice build, what you got there is pretty much all you need, if you can put some extra budget I would strongly recomend getting a 250GB SSD which will allow you to startup in around 10 seconds, but that is not essential and is kinda expensive, so whatever you choose.

SSD on Amazon: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00E3W1726

I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NEK2GE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hQ3uyb122RT28

My favorite mouse, the Logitech G700s.

4 side buttons which I use for skills, three buttons to the left of the left click button which i use for weapon switching, alt fire, and hitting 5. Unlatch the scrollwheel and the speed scroll is awesome for spam firing certain weapons.

I also run a Logitech G13 alongside it, but that's just my preference. Plus you can customize both the mouse and the gamepad with the same software, which is nice.

You could try to use something like this and map the joystick to mouse movement.

http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE