(Part 3) Best computer networking products according to redditors
We found 25,743 Reddit comments discussing the best computer networking products. We ranked the 4,053 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
There's a good twenty eight dollar one on amazon. Condolences about the wife.
Edit: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WA850RE-Universal-One-button-Indicator/dp/B00E98O7GC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1410745175&sr=1-1&keywords=wifi+range+repeater
It actually is. Basic Royal Kludge RK61 with some various keycaps I had from other builds.
$40 for a wireless (Bluetooth) clicky mechanical that feels good to type on - plus one that has a simple backlight with different lighting modes was just the deal for me, as the most duty this bad boy sees is controlling the PC I have running on my living room TV. Probably going to make another one for the Surface Pro I use for DMing DnD campaigns.
EDIT:
Since there's some interest in this, here are the exact pieces I used for this setup and links to buy them:
-Keycap Set 1 - Almost Everything
-Keycap Set 2 - Blank Green Shift Keys
-Base Keyboard Model
-Mouse
-Mousepad
-Bluetooth Adapter for PC
BONUS:
-It's not the one I have, but here's a cool artificial succulent
$400.
What $400 could get you instead:
We spent $353.34. We got: 2 Wireless-N access points for different points in our house, a router with all of the same features (minus automatic DDNS, which you don't need your router to do), and more (gigabit) ports.
And we spent less. Obviously this requires a lot more work: you have to run cables (which includes measuring, cutting, and crimping cables, installing wall ports, running cable up walls and through your attic if youw ant to do it correctly), configure your router (at least a little bit),
And I'm not saying that this solution is for everyone. Or even for very many people, but I am trying to show that we are able to get a gigabit PoE router with the same features, a small gigabit switch, and two access points for less than this thing. These expensive routers are getting ridiculous.
Edit: I'm just saying guys, consider your options. These big routers don't really solve most problems people have. It's buying a Ferrari to drive your 4 kids to school.
These, and a PoE switch: https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-802-3af-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry/dp/B01MDLUSE7
I suspect it doesn't get much press because most home setups don't have PoE and the average person has no idea what it is or what it can do. PoE switches are more expensive and you have to deal with power allocation and I think for this reason a lot of home gear doesn't include it because probably a single digits percentage of users would capitalize on it.
Anyway, if you have it there are also several PoE splitters available which takes PoE in and outputs Ethernet plus USB/Lightning or other power tips at 5V or 12V depending on the splitter. So even if your device is not PoE if it is Ethernet and USB power then you're golden. They aren't expensive either.
Examples:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CDT7KPO
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D98PGZG
I used these splitters to power cameras and Ring keypads and RPi's and all kinds of crap. Cheaper and easier than PoE injectors so long as you have PoE switch to begin with.
Same here! They have these POE micro USB splitters that split off 5v and Ethernet for like $10 bucks. I was thinking about integrating the adapter into the sled and have keyhole jacks in the back that the sled connects to. Power and Ethernet in one connection!
Link for PoE adapter:UCTRONICS IEEE 802.3af Micro USB Active PoE Splitter Power Over Ethernet 48V to 5V 2.4A for Tablets, Dropcam or Raspberry Pi (48V to 5V 2.4A) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nD4RCb22AX9KB
PC Park Picker
More pics
Link's to everything
Art Left
Art Right
lights
Desk
Left Monitor
Right Monitor
Plant
Glass Bottle
Camera
Camera 2
Lens 1
[Lens 2] (https://www.amazon.com/Nikon-Micro-NIKKOR-2177-Standard-Cameras/dp/B0013A1XDY/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Nikkor+60mm+2.8&qid=1556581194&s=gateway&sr=8-2)
Lens 3
Router
DAC
Tube Amp
headphones
Mouse Pad
Mouse
Mic
Speaker amp
Chair
Keyboard - Built by /u/TaehaTypes - Tofu - DZ60/USB C - Brass mounting plate - Zealios V2 78g
Cable
I recently upgraded to their 24-port PoE switch and I'm very happy with it. It's powering my now 3 UAP's & cloud key, as well as two raspberry pi's that I run pi-hole on. (I'm using these to provide power to the rasperry pi's). Aside from the cleaner wiring, it's also very handy for getting more insight into your network traffic, etc.
Get a power line adapter bro. It’s essentially hard wiring your system without the long cable. Instead, it goes through your home’s electrical cables. Super cheap and works great. I have this one I posted. Never have issues and my reception is amazing despite my router being three rooms away.
TP-Link AV1000 Powerline Ethernet Adapter - Gigabit Port, Plug&Play, Power Saving(TL-PA7010 KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oCo2CbXG35RGK
I have one of these bad Larrys so all I have to do to turn shit on and off is press a button. I feel like a wizard!
Highly recommended, btw. That thing is pretty durable and works with every usb I've tried without issue. Plus, 7 bucks!
Sure!
Antenna: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Altelix-2-4-GHz-WiFi-24dB-Grid-Antenna-Long-Range-High-Gain-Outdoor-Directional/152930295331
Note: For this antenna, you will need to add about 3.5 cm of spacing on the reflector (Like https://i.imgur.com/ruqJmZ1.jpg) I made a 3D printable model just for this antenna that’s just the right size that you can download here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3540047
LNA (Powered by SDR Bias Tee): https://www.amazon.com/Nooelec-SAWbird-GOES-Barebones-Applications/dp/B07GBFNV1H
SDR: https://www.amazon.com/RTL-SDR-Blog-RTL2832U-Software-Defined/dp/B0129EBDS2 (Note: If this thing gets too hot it will lose signal!)
​
This is plugged into a Raspberry Pi 3+ running goestools (https://github.com/pietern/goestools)
Just remember if you do actually go Comcast, to do yourself a favor and buy your own hardware. Get yourself a good DOCSIS 3.0 modem (or 3.1 if you want to spring for gigabit) and a router that won't bottleneck you.
I've had Comcast for multiple years in multiple apartments, both in college with 2 roommates and post grad with my gf. Outside of the outage from like 2-4am once every 4ish months give or take, I've always received the service I paid for. I won't try and say they're a company ran by good people (they're not), but the service is reliable if you get the right hardware for the job. The combo I linked ya would break even in under a year's worth of rental fees.
The most difficult part is planning out which devices go where and how to best segment services from one another. Some folks with extensive labs and equipment get quite granular with their approach, potentially having separate VLANs for everything from storage (NFS, SMB, etc.) traffic to networking devices and servers. I'm FAR from an expert, so my goal was to start simply and begin by getting this IoT traffic separated. Using (redundant) Pi-hole(s) it's quite easy to see how much traffic is generated from a single Roku device, we're seeing 10+ thousand requests daily for various Roku logging servers, plus additional Google traffic related to various smart home speakers (Google Home Mini x4) and on and on it goes.
I'd also encourage you to redirect DNS traffic for devices (such as the Google Home Minis), as they come with hard-coded DNS servers which will work around your Piholes, or other DNS blacklisting efforts. That's a separate project which can be implemented on your router with some sNAT & dNAT rules which will invisibly redirect traffic to your chosen DNS servers, be it locally or upstream. I'm achieving these things by running Unbound with Pi-hole, as my own little in-house, recursive DNS servers, rather than using the typical upstream DNS, provided by either your ISP, or Cloudflare (1.1.1.1 & 1.0.0.1), Google (8.8.8.8 & 8.8.4.4) or Quad9 (9.9.9.9 & 149.112.112.112)... but that's up to you to decide what's best for your own network.
Here's a great video to hopefully get you started. I can't seem to find the blog post I was thinking of, but I learned a lot from this video, then you just have to translate specifics to your type of router and networking gear:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ElI8QeYbZQ
Hope this helps. Please let us know how you make out, or if I was unclear in my ramblings above. I'm still learning too, so please keep in mind that I'm anything of an expert, but I enjoy tinkering and am trying to take our data privacy seriously. It's a constant trade-off to be able to utilize much of today's technology. We want to be able to continue controlling lights, locks and things remotely and/or with our voice, so the least I could do was try and restrict the en masse data collection.
EDIT: What type of router are you using? Not sure who mentioned having a Meraki device. I'm using an Edgerouter 12 with UniFi wireless access point (UAP-AC-LR) and a Cisco SG300-20 small business switch, but the ER12 also had its own 8-port built in switch, and I've also got an ultra cheap TP-Link 8-port switch (TL-SG108E), as it was the absolute cheapest way for me to get a budget Gbps switch that supported advanced features that a truly managed switch would have, such as QoS, VLANs, port mirroring, LAG groups and such.
My flagship project I've done with a Pi is having it download satellite images of the earth from satellites overhead.
For instance, this picture was taken from a US weather satellite yesterday using a program called wxtoimg, a $20 USB radio receiver, and a tape measure.
I've done it both ways, it's far easier with a USB stick. Not only that, but you eliminate a possible point of failure by removing smartthings. There's a combo zwave and zigbee usb stick on amazon that you can also connect smart bulbs to.
Edit: Added a link
I used the following guide for my setup.
https://productforums.google.com/forum/#!topic/chromecast/xo_NDh5CZA8;context-place=topicsearchin/chromecast/category$3Achrome-os
The ethernet adapter I got was the Linksys USB3GIG. It is nice that the USB3GIG supports 1000Gb and has USB3.0 to take full advantage of the bandwidth in theory.
My setup cost me $29, but it can be done for $20.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CXAC1ZW
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYT481C
Edit: I changed the amazon links since I didn't realize amazon shorten links are referral links.
Yeah! I've been using THESE for my 1st / 2nd / 3rd generation Raspberry Pi's, hopefully the new ones take up less space / are easier to manage cables for. (Note: they work well with my UniFi PoE switches)
if your pc does not have built-in Bluetooth, you're going to have to get an adaptor. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0775YF36R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Use rechargeable batteries that have more than 1.5 V. Avoid 1.2 V if you can, controllers will occasionally read them as 'low' and turn off, even though they are fine. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HQ7QV7W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
free games to keep you busy: google earth, vrchat, and rec room.
I have mine on a powerline adapter and it works fine for me.
I've been using this one.
I'm partial to Asus routers. I see this model on Amazon for $89.
Any decent router will cost you about a $100, and to be honest, Verizon's routers really aren't that bad. They're made by Actiontec, which is a decent brand. Might just want to suck it up and buy (not rent!) from Verizon.
I see yours has a hard drive. That's really really cool--definitely not the usual 5155 fare.
You can do serial connectivity, which is easy and well documented, or you can do the slightly less well documented but way funnier and more future-proof method.
I used this to get my 5150 online.
You now have a 5155 that can talk over ethernet. If you connect an external wired to wifi ethernet bridge like this one perhaps you can have a luggable computer with wi-fi access!
Disclosure that I love doing ridiculous things like that--making an Apple II talk to the internet is just as much fun--so please excuse the bias.
Serial transmission will be easier and more era-appropriate if that's what you're after, but ethernet gives you access to the Internet as well as being able to transmit files to it over HTTP or FTP, which is majorly convenient
I recommend to spread the function.
http://www.amazon.com/EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-512MB-Ethernet-Router/dp/B00CPRVF5K/
http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFi-Access-UAP-LR-US-Version/dp/B005H4CDF4/
I'm a fan of the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite. It pushes full gigabit all day and doesn't break a sweat. Have been using it for the last three years without any issues.
You could always get a quote from a local IT company and look into having them run Cat5 to all of your devices and having them all meet up at your gateway. It would be a bit pricey, but if you don't have the time/know-how to do it yourself it might be worth it. It would provide you with the best connection possible.
Otherwise, Powerline adapters or wifi extenders might be worth looking into. In the past I used one of these in a rental home and it worth pretty darn well. They even have an ethernet jack on them for hardwiring a device near the extender. Hardwiring to the extender would give you Wifi-like speeds/latency on devices that don't support wireless. I do believe you can have multiples of them bouncing off of one another to offer better coverage.
Sony says that the A2DP Bluetooth latency is too high for a streamlined experience, [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Nintendo-Headphones/dp/B01G3J1I5M/) is your only option.
For me I solved that issue by getting this Avantree Leaf USB Transmitter Adapter for Switch & PS4 for $30 (though it was $29 when I got it)
I mostly play 99.9% of the time in docked mode after work or on my days off. So getting something like a Genki, Gulikit, or Homespot which is at least $10-$11 more expensive (and is more geared towards using it in portable mode) made little sense when those only worked for the Switch. I needed something that worked with the Switch & PS4 ideally so this was perfect for my needs.
But if you only want an adapter for the Switch then one of those 3 works just fine, & some of them come with USB adapters so you can use them in docked mode.
Does it kind of suck you need to buy an accessory to fix the lack of bluetooth support for wireless headphones? Sure, but thankfully 3rd party companies are making products that solve this issue at a mostly reasonable cost depending which one you get.
Current Setup
Physical:
Virtual:
Plans
Good gigabit router : TP-Link Archer C5 - $77
Updated version : TP-Link Archer C1200 -
$95on sale at $70Very good gigabit router : TP-Link Archer C7 - $90
That's been the price on Amazon for some time. The price at BestBuy is just $1 more.
Costco has a much better deal ($299) for a 4-pack on a price per unit/puck basis, but it is members-only.
For powering the Pi. Previously you would have had to use something like this.
Try using a powerline ethernet solution! This let's you run your ethernet signal through your home's power system. I use it for my downstairs Dock and it works very well, no disconnects! It's a bit tricky to set up though.
Here's the one I'm using:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AV1000-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B06WP2ZT5N
I don't think there's any non-Cisco equipment that can do that, but you could buy a passive PoE injector. It only powers one cable, but it is cheaper than buying a whole Cisco PoE switch.
Like this: TL-PoE150S
Or you could just buy a Cisco power brick (keep in mind it needs an IEC C13 cable), which is about the same price: Cisco CP-PWR-CUBE
The Cisco IP phones are very cool, so I hope you get them working.
I've done that exact setup.
2 of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-NanoStation-Dedicated-Management-NS-5ACL-US/dp/B078NN1J4K/
1 of these for within the barn
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-GREENnet-Switching-Protection-TPE-TG82G/dp/B074PXNRFH/
1 of these for inside the house:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/
If you want wifi out there you can do a LR:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFi-UAP-AC-LR-Single-Version/dp/B01609AF22/
Cameras you can use a variety. but even at 4k resolution with h264 you're at 75 mbps with 4 cameras at 30fps.
one camera option:
https://www.amazon.com/Camera-Outdoor-Security-Surveillance-Waterproof/dp/B0776S8N8X/
edit: i also suggest a battery backup to clean power up in remote buildings. esp if they're old
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-Charging-BE600M1/dp/B01FWAZEIU/
The TL-WR940N is a $25 4 year old (design) router with 10/100 (no gig) ports, single digit Mb/s wifi speeds and a lot of bad reviews, there's probably not much at all you can do to make it any better.
I'd return it, put a few more bucks in to a new purchase and get something that won't get in the way of a good on-line experience.
http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-N-Router-RT-N56U/dp/B0049YQVHE Dooooo it.
Get the V3 blog dongle. Has a txco so signals will not drift, bias-t to power lna's or whatever, better build quality and does direct sampling HF with just software. Nice antenna kit (https://www.rtl-sdr.com/using-our-new-dipole-antenna-kit/ ) with this one - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011HVUEME/ or just the dongle - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0129EBDS2 . Spec sheet on it - https://www.rtl-sdr.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/RTL-SDR-Blog-V3-Datasheet.pdf
I would suggest a SDR, in all honesty. No risk of accidentally transmitting anything and causing interference. Something like a RTLSDR https://www.amazon.com/RTL-SDR-Blog-RTL2832U-Software-Defined/dp/B0129EBDS2 it's cheap enough, and you can rig up an antenna pretty quickly.
This is better suited for /r/rtlsdr, but the R820T2 has better sensitivity/noise characteristics compared to the R820T. Get one in a metal enclosure and with a TCXO for additional stability and noise protection.
Finally got around to moving the antenna from a second story window to the attic. Went from 150-250 msgs/sec to 800-900. Need to rethink my range rings and labels...
FlightAware Antenna, RTL-SDR V3, RTL-SDR1090Mhz LNA/Filter, Short (6") coax and 15 ft USB cable, RaspPi feeding FA, FR24, ADSBExchange, and a VirtualRadar server
GoControl CECOMINOD016164 HUSBZB-1 USB Hub.
​
Added this to /config/configuration.yaml
zwave:polling_interval: 60000usb_path: /dev/ttyUSB0network_key: "0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX"zha:usb_path: /dev/ttyUSB1​
I must say, however, I have not tested zigbee, as I do not have any zigbee devices, but I do not see why it would not work, as it works for others, and shows up in my HA settings.
I'm using this for a year, getting good speeds.
₹2,685
TP-Link Archer C1200 Gigabit Wireless Wi-Fi Router https://www.amazon.in/dp/B01IUDUJE0/
I came here to post this - glad you got it already!
You can preorder from the Google Store, Amazon 1 pack, 3 pack, Best Buy 1 pack, 3 pack, or Walmart.
They'll ship on December 6th.
PoE adapter for only 1 cable run to the Pi and consolidated AC/DC conversion in my PoE switch for better efficiency (and UPS runtime). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_jDYrwuD1vAMfp
You could always get something like this to power it, assuming that the power requirements of the device don't exceed the rating of the adapter.
Can you find a display that is powered from the RPi itself? If so, then you can power the RPi from this device for $11.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MDLUSE7/
Here are two comments from this Amazon page:
I bought this for a FingBox (5v 2A, micro USB) and it works great! Also hooked it up to a RPi3 with the RPi touch display. Worked just fine, but I must admit I didn't leave it running long, just booted it up. Using this w/ the FingBox saves me from using an AC outlet in my server closet which are in short supply. Must use 48V POE on the switch.
Works perfectly. My switch recognizes it as a class 3 PoE device, and typically consuming 3.1 to 3.5 watts of power. It plugged right into my pi (with a 3.5" display) and so far I have not found any problems.
The only thing I'd mention is there's no clear indication of which network connection faces the switch, and which faces the client device. I took a guess that with the male RJ45 and micro-usb cable being the same length, that was where the pi should go, and I was correct. (I include a picture of the "correct" manner of connecting it.)
Hope this helps.
No, the 24V ones only work with the older AC-Lite and AC-LR (and the Nanobeam, etc non-UniFi products).
I've used this model TP-Link PoE injector for a 802.3af UniFi AP (AC-Pro) before and it works fine.
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1414529601&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+expander boom.
This is from an RTL-SDR.com V3 dongle. And it looks "crisp" because a) METEOR-M2 is a digital signal so you don't see the analog noise you might find in a NOAA satellite image, and b) I've sharpened it in GIMP.
In fact I had to clone out some of the data dropouts (some of them occurring on the satellite side) and clean it up a bit. If you're interested, the original unaltered raw image is here. The two thicker bands at the lower and upper third of the image are the METEOR signal resetting itself, so I cloned/healed all that out.
I've been using this: https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Nintendo-Headphones/dp/B01G3J1I5M
Works effortlessly between my PC, PS4, and Switch.
This is the one I have, it has both Zigbee and Z-Wave radios so it replaced my Z-stick too. Works great.
Linear HUSBZB-1
actually, IMO the best answer is a ethernet powerline adapter. The way this works is that it distributes the internet LAN signal through the electrical power outlets. The way this should be set up is when you purchase it you receive 2 units. 1 unit should be by the router, the other in the location of desired internet (in your case your room). It is extremely easy to set up and I was able to buy a unit for 30 bucks. I pay for 100Mbps service and constintatly have download speeds of 50 on my ps4 using this. If you go this route, which I recommend, I would make sure the unit is connected DIRECTLY to the wall, not to a powerstrip. The powerstrip acts like a "wireless booster" and reduces your speeds. IF you only have one outlet some products do have a jack built in so it doesn't even take up an outlet. Example below:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Powerline-Pass-through-TL-PA8010P-KIT/dp/B00Y3QPG1A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474644742&sr=8-3&keywords=ethernet+powerline+adapter
Please note I realize this one is not in the $30 range I just wanted to give you an example.
EDIT: TL;DR Poweline ethernet adapter > 1000 FT ethernet cable. Check out link for example - there are cheaper models that work great.
A tip if you're going to use powerline adapters: make sure the adapter is plugged in directly to the wall outlet.
I originally had the powerline adapters plugged into surge protectors since, unfortunately, my powerline adapter blocks both outlets no matter which it's plugged into. It was garbage quality so I was pretty disappointed. Then I realized that maybe there's some extra resistance or electrical hurdles from going through the surge protector. Plugged them into the walls and now I stream games from my bedroom to my living room in my apartment. Never experience any problems, though I've never tried using another intense electrical appliance while streaming. I imagine vacuuming or something like that would bring the streaming quality down.
Here's what I use:
http://smile.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA8010P-KIT-Pass-through-Powerline/dp/B00Y3QPG1A/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1464903361&sr=1-5&keywords=powerline+adapter
They also have a cheaper model that doesn't block both outlets, but I read (somewhere on the internet...) that that version uses an inferior technology so it might not do it as well. I didn't really wanna take chances so I went for that model because someone else said they got steam link to work using that specific one.
Ended up buying this one off amazon.
TP-LINK TL-PA8010P KIT AV1200 Gigabit with Power Outlet Pass-through Powerline Adapter, Up to 1200Mbps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y3QPG1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_AkM4wbJT9KG39
I've used this set before at a customers house for streaming Appletv and it worked great. I wouldn't get the cheaper one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Y3QPG1A/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468775515&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=ethernet+over+power&dpPl=1&dpID=41lTgRCVtIL&ref=plSrch
Just make sure you don't use an extension cord on it and make sure both outlets are on the same circuit breaker (which unless you have a huge house they should be). Was easy to setup.... Plug and play.
You could buy an SDR dongle that will let you use your computer as a radio for about $20. Here's one that goes up to 1700 MHz (I have little experience with these so I can't recommend a particular one). So that will let you listen to 1420 MHz, but you're not going to hear any aliens. Astronomers use huge radio telescopes and computers to try to detect very weak signals across interstellar distances.
While it's not going to be sensitive enough to do any real SETI, you'd still have a radio receiver that lets you listen to an extremely wide frequency range.
Thanks! And also thank you for clarifying the black bars. It's unfortunate that it is a glitch in Meteor but I'm glad to hear its not a local error within my setup.
As for the radio I'm running I'm using a standard RTL-SDR dongle I got on amazon.
It isn't that. My parents had problems when there was an LED bulb in the floodlight that was mounted about a foot away from my garage door opener. If the flood light was on, the garage door operation was very intermittent.
Grab one of these (https://www.amazon.com/RTL-SDR-Blog-RTL2832U-Software-Defined/dp/B0129EBDS2) and an antenna and watch happens to the RF spectrum when you get too close to a cheap LED bulb.
For PC use I highly recommend pairing these or other good bluetooth headphones with the Avantree Leaf USB Bluetooth Transmitter to get AptX audio support on Windows - worth it for the reasonable price.
I would suggest a usb stick that does both, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-CECOMINOD016164-Linear-HUSBZB-1/dp/B01GJ826F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537397378&sr=8-3&keywords=zigbee+zwave+usb
Combo sticks that do zwave and zigbee are also an option, Linear HUSBZB-1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ826F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KX7WzbW9ERS1E. I've been very happy with mine.
I hate viewing amazon mobile links on the desktop, the page is so blank and the pictures are uselessly small. Heres your list with normal links:
Adapters:
Non-spam link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MAW2294
https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-802-3af-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry/dp/B01MDLUSE7/
Has an led on it or add your own via usb power pins
Hope your ubiquiti switches actually provide standards-compliant Poe and not ubiquiti’s proprietary piece of shit “passive Poe”
If you haven't already about one, this is the one I use: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWF5U0M
Super cheap; works perfectly with the PS4.
Ubiquiti EdgeMax EdgeRouter Lite ERLite-3 I have a setup with a lot more load and it works flawlessly.
Strictly a router? The Ubiquiti Edgerouter Lite 3-port is pretty fantastic. Have that along with a Netgear 5-port switch and a Ubiquiti wireless AP. Works great.
Mostly Amazon but they are still available on the UBNT store. Some are hesitant because of speed issues, Others because they have had problems connecting phones to their gen 1 gear.
Few different build variants depending on your cousin's needs.
Note that this motherboard only has 2 PCIe slots, so you might not want to use a wifi adapter that's PCIe (I personally am partial to this IOGEAR ethernet-wifi adapter, but it's only 150mbps and the 300mbps version is more expensive at $44 bucks).
Special mention that the RAM is known to work with the motherboard.
4core/8thread CPU + 250GB SSD + 1TB HDD:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1400 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $157.49 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $77.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL - EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $93.99 @ Newegg
Storage | SK hynix - SL308 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $77.89 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $48.44 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Phoenix Video Card | $129.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $26.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus - PCE-AC55BT PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $31.90 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Cooler Master - R4-S8R-20AK-GP 28.9 CFM 80mm Fan | $4.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Asus - VS228T-P 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
Mouse | Redragon - Centrophorus M601 Wired Optical Mouse | $12.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $887.53
| Mail-in rebates | -$45.00
| Total | $842.53
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-26 04:04 EDT-0400 |
4core/8thread CPU + 120GB SSD + 3TB HDD:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1400 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $157.49 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $77.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL - EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $93.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Kingston - A400 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $51.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Phoenix Video Card | $129.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $26.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus - PCE-AC55BT PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $31.90 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Cooler Master - R4-S8R-20AK-GP 28.9 CFM 80mm Fan | $4.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Asus - VS228T-P 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
Mouse | Redragon - Centrophorus M601 Wired Optical Mouse | $12.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $903.08
| Mail-in rebates | -$45.00
| Total | $858.08
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-26 04:12 EDT-0400 |
faster 4core/8thread CPU with better cooler + 120GB SSD + 2TB HDD:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1500X 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $176.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $77.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL - EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $93.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Kingston - A400 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $51.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $66.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Phoenix Video Card | $129.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $26.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus - PCE-AC55BT PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $31.90 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Cooler Master - R4-S8R-20AK-GP 28.9 CFM 80mm Fan | $4.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Asus - VS228T-P 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
Mouse | Redragon - Centrophorus M601 Wired Optical Mouse | $12.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $899.58
| Mail-in rebates | -$45.00
| Total | $854.58
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-26 04:16 EDT-0400 |
Time to go old school. This is how Wi-Fi was done back in the day (although this is a new 802.11n device).
http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421519257&sr=8-1&keywords=Ethernet+to+wifi+adapter
A device that does everything won't do it well. If you want maximum performance get a dedicated router.
I'd say the TP-Link Archer C7 or the ASUS RT-N66U should do the trick. If you want to go nutty there's always the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite and UniFi AP AC Lite, but this setup isn't as plug-and-play as the first two.
Wifi Repeater is an option. I use this one to bridge the gaps in my house. Just position it halfway between your router and your first floor router. Works very well for standard browsing. However, it is not suitable for gaming or other low-ping activities.
For gaming I use, ethernet over powerlines as Fightinglight says. This one works very well as it has a 4-port switch at the end which allows me to plug in two computers and a printer in my office.
Have you looked through this guide: https://nguvu.org/pfsense/pfsense-2.3-setup/ ?
Replace AirVPN with your VPN provider. This guide assumes you also have a switch that is capable managing vlans. Add every device you want connected to VPN on a separate vlan.
If you don't have a vlan capable switch you can get a cheap tp-link one for $30 on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Managed-TL-SG108E/dp/B00K4DS5KU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496901694&sr=8-2&keywords=tp+link+smart+switch
I have a quad port NIC on my pfsense box and it only has two physical connections: WAN and LAN. WAN is connected to my ISP and LAN is connected to my vlan capable switch. pfsense manages all the routing.
Also the guide talks about mitigating dnsleaks so follow the instructions very carefully.
Network cabling everywhere. Even if you aren't in tech, you'll still find tremendous use out of this. Some requirements if I were to get it done custom:
This turned out longer than I expected, so if anything is confusing or you want more details, let me know!
Another possibility - using a USB dongle. TPLink has some nice ones: https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-WN822N-Wireless-Adapter-Version-300M/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1NKEO3WFO78UV&keywords=tp+link+usb+wifi+adapter&qid=1559026857&s=gateway&sprefix=tp+link+usb+wifi+%2Caps%2C295&sr=8-8
There are several performance variants. They use USB 3.0
I'd just get some powerline ethernet adaptors and cable the ROKU up that way.
These bad boys will solve your problem: http://smile.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA8010P-KIT-Pass-through-Powerline/dp/B00Y3QPG1A/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1452812199&sr=1-2&keywords=powerline+ethernet+adapter
There is a setting in gpredict I think to that will update when a satellite has AOS, so you might want to just disable that so you can select a single satellite and not have it switch on you automatically.
In that video K7AGE does switch the polarization, most tripod heads will flip from horizontal to vertical - https://youtu.be/1HfvmU_utI8?t=165
Edit: You might want to try picking up some of the NOAA APT weather satellite birds, NOAA-15, NOAA-18, and NOAA-19. They have really strong transmitters, but you'll get a feel of the polar orbits and timing of chasing LEO birds. There is also 3 of them, and you can get multiple passes in each day with them. Just make sure to not transmit at all on the freq (lock out your radio, or use a SDR like a $20 RTL-SDR )
https://www.amazon.com/RTL-SDR-Blog-RTL2832U-Software-Defined/dp/B0129EBDS2/
This one. Also supports bias-t so you can power an LNA if you want.
I have a pair of NESDR smarts, they work well too. I believe then have finer tuning as well.
Buy an Arris SB6183(Get the extended warranty for $3) and a TP-Link router.
total~$90
https://www.amazon.com/Google-Wifi-system-set-replacement/dp/B01MAW2294
Google's mesh WiFi system is pretty legit, I just put one in because I have two floors and plaster walls. Check the Amazon reviews, it's a highly rated item on there. Good luck with your interwebs.
I went with google wifi. It was plug and play and immediately alleviated the annoyance around the numerous streaming services that rule my life.
My neighbor has the meshforce and is similarly pleased with it.
I purchased one of these for a project. Seemed to work well with the pi.
UCTRONICS IEEE 802.3af Micro USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
UCTRONICS IEEE 802.3af Micro USB Active PoE Splitter Power Over Ethernet 48V to 5V 2.4A for Tablets, Dropcam or Raspberry Pi (48V to 5V 2.4A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TzBQAbBD26FC3
If you're willing to spend $75 on a card then just get this. Assuming your house isn't age old, this will give you much more consistent internet connection and stronger
Why not try powerline network adapters? Something like TP-Link AV1000 1-Port Gigabit Powerline Adapter, Powerline speeds Up to 1000Mbps (TL-PA7010 KIT). These adapters will use the house electrical wiring to extend the Ethernet network from your network box upstairs to the PC downstairs.
You can use it on console. You stick one of these into an outlet near your router, connect them with an ethernet cable, then plug the other one into an outlet near your computer, then connect that to your console with another ethernet cable. These things take advantage of the wiring throughout your house and can send an internet signal through the lines on a different frequency than the power uses.
Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-1000Mbps-TL-PA7010-KIT/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1523835339&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=ethernet+powerline+adapter&psc=1
Hardwired connection is always an option now. Can I introduce you to PowerLine technology? Use your power outlets for ethernet!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494560193&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=PowerLine&psc=1
This would only not be an option if you are in different houses.
I think it creates a home mesh like google wifi, except you pay 29aed monthly per room/device to rent the hardware.
So thats 696aed~$189 for 2 years for one room, 2088aed~$569 for 3 rooms. Compare that to the cost of google wifi which is $117 for 1 or $259 for 3.
This one is working really well for me.
UCTRONICS IEEE 802.3af Micro USB Active PoE Splitter Power Over Ethernet 48V to 5V 2.4A for Tablets, Dropcam or Raspberry Pi (48V to 5V 2.4A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_zu0UAb40HEMQG
That's been possible for quite a while. Here ya go, 30 bucks for a pack of 4. They're actual 802.3af compliant pass-through splitters, not the ghetto "passive PoE" variety.
https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-802-3af-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry/dp/B01MDLUSE7/
Probably even cheaper on Aliexpress, Banggood etc - this one's even a prime item.
id recommend these for a more solid connection and they work great
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-1000Mbps-TL-PA7010-KIT/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525098338&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=powerline+tp&psc=1
Why not just get one from Amazon?
You'll be able to pick it up in the library by tomorrow.
You don't need a PoE switch -- most of Ubiquiti's APs come with an injector, and if the one you end up with doesn't for some reason, gigabit injectors are readily available (and don't need to be UBNT branded).
​
The UAP-AC-PRO or UAP-nanoHD are probably the two you'll want to consider, especially if you plan on getting 3x3 wireless clients down the road (if you don't have any already). :)
ich hab die hier bestellt, zusammen mit diesen PoE Injektoren.
Ich find sie ganz gut für den Preis. Können eben das was ich wollte (PoE, Nachtsicht, FullHD, Motionsensor], und bei amazon hätt ich sie auch problemlos umtauschen können wenn ich sie nicht gut gefunden hätte. Du brauchst allerdings entweder ein DVR-System mit dem du die Cams koppeln kannst, oder einen Windowsrechner mit etwas Festplattenplatz auf dem die Software dazu läuft (ich hab nen kleinen Server mit diversen VMs im Keller, der übernimmt das bei mir) wenn du aufzeichnen willst - das Kameramodell hat keine internen Speichermöglichkeiten. Cloudintegration geht wohl auch, hab ich aber nicht aktiv.
Bonus: Obwohl Chinakram funken die Geräte scheinbar nicht nach hause. Mein Wireshark meldet nichts Verdächtiges.
Buying your own modem would allow you to remove that fee.
Some modems will also be able to provide wireless access. i do not believe that modem has wireless capability. so in this case you would also need a router. This is a modem with wireless capability http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SURFboard-Gateway-SBG6580-Wireless/dp/B0040IUI46/ref=pd_cp_pc_1
However i would check that it is compatible with TWC
Similar to what crashbandit posted, it's pretty unlikely to be your modem. If you want a cheap method of checking, see if there are any thrift stores in your area, as older model D3.0 modems aren't hard to find (I'm using a SBG6580 that I paid $5 for, and I have a backup SB6121 that I paid around $1.99 for).
There's a small chance a defective modem can cause packet loss, but there are quite a few mainline issues that are far more likely than a defective modem. In fact, with the weather getting colder, I'd put money on the fact that it's very likely a DC power pack inside one of the hardline amplifiers feeding signal to you. I was a line tech for a couple years before leaving Comcast, and this is about the time of year we started having them blow (seasonal changes cause the capacitors inside to crystallize, and eventually they don't hold a charge anymore... first symptom is packet loss). Unfortunately Comcast trains reps to blame a customer-owned modem before anything else, regardless of anything they see on their screens, so I'd say you're right not to trust them. Even if I'm right though, you'll likely have a fight on your hands. First you'll have to convince them to send a tech, and the tech they send won't know what remote measurement equates (roughly) to packet loss (that measurement being DS CER, or DownStream Codeword ERrors). Even if he sees what I imagine he would see, it'll be hard for him to book a referral ticket to a line tech, then you have to hope you get a line tech out there that knows to check for it, because half the guys I worked with wouldn't jump to that immediately.
So best I can say is good luck.
Probably the best router near that price range:
http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-N-Router-RT-N56U/dp/B0049YQVHE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1427388176&sr=8-3&keywords=rt-n66u
In that case I'd probably get a cheap usb hub as well - https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1492989540&sr=1-5&keywords=usb+extension.
Skip all the consumer crap including that TP-link and the wdr3400 and dd-wrt.
http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-UAP-PRO-Enterprise-System/dp/B0089QB1SC <-access point.
http://www.amazon.com/EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-512MB-Ethernet-Router/dp/B00CPRVF5K < router
Get something that will last for as long as you want, is enterprise class, very slightly more expensive but significantly more reliable, expandable, more performance and better documented/supported.
Go with an EdgeRouter Lite and save the hassle. You can use the existing linksys as an AP, or pick up an UniFi for around 70 for N.
http://www.amazon.com/EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-512MB-Ethernet-Router/dp/B00CPRVF5K
http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-UniFi-Enterprise-System/dp/B004XXMUCQ
I'd suggest replacing it with a DD-WRT capable router. This will support hairpinning and you can knock that rental fee off of your bill.
Edit: If you want to really go all-out, pick up an EdgeRouter Lite and a UniFi Access Point. This setup will do hairpinning out of the box
On a side note, you can get a simple, reliable Wifi signal booster on Amazon for pretty cheap.
I have two of these that just plug into an outlet in the low signal areas of the house. Problem solved. :)
Search for a wifi bridge/extender. Here is one I found with a quick search on amazon
Check out Ubiquiti Networks (UBNT) (https://www.ubnt.com/), I've used those a few times with great success. Implement RADIUS, point it to AD, and your set. They can be spread out throughout your building, they can run via PoE, and they also have directional antennas if you have to cover a large area (i.e. warehouse).
Edit: When I said that I've used those with great success I specifically meant this one (https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-AP-Unifi/dp/B00HXT8R2O?ie=UTF8&amp;*Version*=1&amp;*entries*=0)
I bought one of these : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ubiquiti-Networks-UAP-AP-Router/dp/B00HXT8R2O
You turn the wireless off in your router and plug that in. You need to do a little setup (takes about 5 minutes), all your wireless stuff will then connect to this.
The advantage is that should you ever need to move ISP you just use their router and plug this in again and it will keep working without having to change anything else.
It has a bunch of features too - multiple SSIDs, scheduled access times, you chan throttle devices, reserve addresses etc.
I've since set up one for a friend with two SSIDs, one for their stuff and another for all the kids stuff - that one is scheduled to turn off at a certain time to get the kids off their ipads/consoles etc.
There are several versions - more info here: https://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap/
You can add more if you need to, the management of them all is centralised by the software.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Managed-TL-SG108E/dp/B00K4DS5KU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501606532&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=smart+ethernet+switch
Get one of these. 30 bucks and does basic vlan and some other nifty things. Definitely not "enterprise" features, more like SOHO, but enough to get you started setting up a more robust network.
For the ham that also loves messing with computers:
RTL SDR dongle for $20
https://www.amazon.com/RTL-SDR-Blog-RTL2832U-Software-Defined/dp/B0129EBDS2
The "blog dongle" is going to be the best bang for your buck kind of thing. It's well built and stable.
I was with the /r/askreddit crowd.
I ended up getting this one. Same thing but without the antenna. It seemed like better option anyway, everything I read said that you should be building your own antenna or buying a better one anyway. It seems like fun to experiment with different antenna designs too.
This thingy on amazon might do it It's a standalone USB audio to Bluetooth transmitter. The PS4 should see it the same way it sees the USB dongle for the PlayStation Wireless Headsets.
I know the Aeotec Z-Stick gets a lot of love, but I wanted zigbee support as well so I went with the Nortek which has both. If you have a strictly Z-wave setup the Z-Stick is a fabulous option, but for me the Nortek has never missed a beat. I currently have 6 Zigbee door sensors, 3 Z-wave plus light switches (GE) and a Z-wave plus motion sensor (GE) running through my usb hub.
Linear HUSBZB-1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ826F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kgVGAbCT4RW6Y
Edit: forgot that I also have two Sengled bulbs paired as well.
I'd try out this powerline kit. It's more reliable than Wifi, and better for gaming (and pretty much better overall)
Get the 3 port one if well, you need 3 ports
You should try powerline adapters. You won't get quite the same speed as a hard wired connection, but it is a whole lot better than wireless. I have a few in my house, and they work great!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y3QPG1A/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_DtAuxbZT3CKJ4
good powerline adapters can be a much better option than wifi
https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-TL-PA8010P-Pass-Through-Powerline-1200Mbps/dp/B00Y3QPG1A
You might look into powerline adapters.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Y3QPG1A/ref=s9_cdeal_hm_awbw_b50jE_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-11&amp;pf_rd_r=5W3F5WDSNYF2R0DYT3X0&amp;pf_rd_t=30901&amp;pf_rd_p=1429b8ba-e75d-571e-9b71-9f4989516af7&amp;pf_rd_i=1194444
I have a pair of something similar at home. Poke around to see what would fit you best, but me and my roommate are both very happy with them.
As promised, here are my sourcing links:
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The rest of it is pretty standard stuff, Raspberry pi, misc hardware from any local hardware store etc...
Just the standard RTL-SDR https://www.amazon.com/RTL-SDR-Blog-RTL2832U-Software-Defined/dp/B0129EBDS2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=rtl-sdr&amp;qid=1550504881&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-4
This: https://www.amazon.com/SODIAL-Balun-One-Nine-Low-Cost/dp/B07KW2FYTL/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=rtl-sdr+9%3A1&amp;qid=1550504898&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-13
and a long wire. Just had to use direct sampling.
I'm not that much further along than you, so perhaps others will chime in and in that case I'll defer to their recommendations.
I'd start by buying a receive-only SDR "dongle" which will let you start playing with some of the software. They are repurposed DVB-T (European digital tv) tuners, and the better ones have some additional heatsinks and stuff to make them more frequency-stable.
I have this one, and have given a few similar ones to friends: https://smile.amazon.com/RTL-SDR-Blog-RTL2832U-Software-Defined/dp/B0129EBDS2/
The major limitation is actually the bottom end of its frequency range... if you want to use it to listen to HF, you need an upconverter. But you can add that later... there's a lot of stuff to listen to just in the FM broadcast band and up through VHF/UHF.
The software I'd start with is "Gqrx" and it's available for multiple platforms, just don't run it on an old beater PC because it's reasonably processor intensive. (Personally I would get a dedicated machine and run Linux on it, because once you get near the actual cutting edge of SDR development, where you'll be pulling random code from Github, that's where the interesting stuff is. Windows means you're going to be stuck waiting for someone to make you binaries or dealing with a toolchain that's different than most of the devs, so they're going to be less likely to be able to help you when you have an issue. Mac OS is seemingly okay but there are some things that are a pain to build.)
Anyway, Gqrx will let you poke around and see/hear what's going on in the spectrum around you. You'll be able to see all the FM and TV broadcast, pagers, cellphones, garage door openers, utility monitors, wireless thermostats, etc. Gqrx doesn't demodulate that many things natively, but you can see and hear them (put it into CW or SSB mode to listen, the digital modes sound very distinctive).
From there... there seem to be a couple of routes. One is to play around more on the software side. The heavy hitter for SDR software is GNURadio, almost all the other software is based on it in some way. It's got a fair learning curve to it, though—this is where I am presently. But it allows you to write modules to demodulate various signals, and if you are a programmer you could start contributing to the cutting edge by working on new modules (they're mostly written in C with glue code in Python, from what I can tell).
To start transmitting you'll need more hardware, because the cheap RTL-SDR dongles don't transmit (well, there are some hacks to make them transmit, but they're real hacks). I haven't settled on what device to get, and it feels like buying a PC in 1996—every few months there's something better/faster/cheaper. If I were going to buy one today I'd probably get a "HackRF One" (about $300) but mostly because I know a couple of guys in my local club who have them, and they seem to be pretty popular—but there are definitely cheaper options around, I'm just not sure how well-supported they are.
Beyond that... it really depends what you want to do. There's some really neat stuff going on right now where cybersecurity overlaps with radio stuff... GPS spoofing and anti-spoofing, for instance, is a big area of research (like you could probably put in 6 months of hard effort and be on the cutting edge of this stuff, I think, at least outside of the military labs). But within traditional amateur radio there's some really neat new digital modes that do slow data rate / low power comms, basically letting you send data over distances at crazy low power levels just barely above the noise floor. I think that stuff is cool—and it doesn't duplicate stuff that your cellphone does. Sky's the limit really.
For $20, the RTL-SDR Blog v3 stick is very good and has some features that matter in practice. Bias tee for LNAs if you end up needing to use one (needing a long antenna wire going outdoors is a common reason), aluminum enclosure, a good TCXO, and some ESD protection.
Aside from the actual SDR, the antenna will make a huge difference and you can do reasonably well without spending a lot of money for something fragile and non-portable.
You can get a kit that includes the RTLSDR v3 and a cheap looking but useful "rabbit ears" antenna (see important note below!). It's obviously not a great antenna, but I've used it for receiving NOAA weather satellite images, since you can arrange it as a V-dipole. It's also really lightweight and portable, and if you accidentally break or lose it, or if you leave it outside and it rusts, they sell them separately for a few bucks.
For a slightly more durable and capable, but still really cheap and portable antenna, take a look at the N9TAX Slim Jim. I've had one of those for years and love it, because it can be easily hung up outdoors and taken back down quickly. He makes a few variations, but the one in the link comes with a 10ft cable and SMA connector on the end, and has a built-in velcro wrap for coiling it up and storing/transporting it. It's designed for the 2m and 70cm ham bands, but for receiving with an SDR I've used that antenna on everything from commercial FM all the way up to 1090Mhz ADS-B.
(If you do get that rabbit ears antenna kit, make sure you open the little plastic housing on it and look for wires that might cause a short circuit between the 2 antenna elements. There should be a little resistor connecting them for ESD protection, but there should not be bare strands of wire shorting them directly.
That happened on mine every time the wire moved, and it severely harmed reception until I fixed it by snipping the stray wire strands off. It may also cause damage to the SDR if the bias tee gets activated while the antenna is directly connected and shorted like that, which is more likely than it sounds because the normal TV drivers for the SDR chipset in linux apparently turn on the bias tee by accident, not knowing that there's a bias tee circuit in there).
I sidegraded from a $450 HD 650 setup with a schitt stack for these since I am going to be travelling more at my new job. These are perfectly fine for gaming especially since windows 10 has a new windows sonic mode. I'd say the sound signature is very similar to a pair of 598's while being mobile.
To get the most out of these headphones, be sure your device supports APTx which will give you decent CD-like quality. You can buy an adapter like this which can turn most devices into an APTx source. Also you can just plug them in but you lose the convenience of wireless.
I would skip the pi and go straight to an older laptop. You’ll need a Zwave stick too. I’m using this one: https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-CECOMINOD016164-HUSBZB-1-USB-Hub/dp/B01GJ826F8. Has Zwave and Zigbee radios.
Take a look at this guide for setting it up: https://youtu.be/ekVfLXnoM7k
You can get a combination Z-Wave/Ziggbee USB stick (currently sold out) that is supported by Home Assistant. You'll want to check for your specific bulbs though.
I use my Hue bridge for my Zigbee bulbs, since it doesn't require an Internet connection.
Yea. It's the Linear HUSBZB-1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ826F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HfngzbSEKJX5W
Most of this stuff is pretty easy to search for:
It was the husbzb-1 from amazon. You have to set it up on a PC or raspberry pi via homeassistant. It’s not incredibly complicated (their are plenty of guides) but it’s not plug and play by any means. The benefit of it is you can pretty much use any smart device and integrate it into HomeKit.
I originally got it for sengled BR30 bulbs just cause Phillips hue is so expensive in that size. $10 vs $25 a bulb.
They sell a zigbee/zwave usb stick.
The comments say:
> Using RPi gen1, Home Assistant, and OpenZWaveControlPanel:
>
> 1) Fresh, headless raspbian
>
> 2) Home assistant all in 1 installer
>
> 3) /etc/udev/rules.d/99-usb-serial.rules:
>
> SUBSYSTEM=="tty", ATTRS{interface}=="HubZ Z-Wave Com Port", SYMLINK+="zwave"
>
> SUBSYSTEM=="tty", ATTRS{interface}=="HubZ ZigBee Com Port", SYMLINK+="zigbee"
>
> 4) /home/homeassistant/.homeassistant/configuration.yaml:
>
> zwave:
>
> usb_path: /dev/zwave
>
> zigbee:
>
> device: /dev/zigbee
since no one actually answered your question... yes it's possible, yes its advisable and this was the stick i used to do it:
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-CECOMINOD016164-HUSBZB-1-USB-Hub/dp/B01GJ826F8
This stick has zwave and zigbee radios in it.
I started with vera, moved to smart things, then to HA on a pi with a zwave stick, started missing my ONE single zigbee lightbulb and went to a dedicated server with the HUBZ-1 stick.
I don't like how much work i had to put into HA, but i love how well it works when you decide to stop dinking around with goofy useless automations and custom additions. dont go too far down the rabbit hole of home assistant... its really freaking powerful and you could spend a full time job on making it do everything it's capable of.
I don't use a "hub", I use a USB Z-Wave device paired with HomeSeer (home automation software running on a computer). While this isn't a hub in the sense of the word, it works much like one, but has a greater ability to expand.
This isn't the device I use, but this device works with both Z-Wave and Zigbee and may work for your needs (now and in the future):
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-CECOMINOD016164-HUSBZB-1-USB-Hub/dp/B01GJ826F8
You will need automation software to run this device, HomeAssistant, HomeSeer, OpenHAB are a few of several options.
If you want a hub, buy a hub, I just want you to know about all the options.
This one
Combo: https://smile.amazon.com/GoControl-CECOMINOD016164-Linear-HUSBZB-1/dp/B01GJ826F8/
I've stuck with z-wave pretty much entirely though as I live in a neighborhood and the 2.4 band is such crap I don't have great reliability with zigbee stuff unless it's really close.
However zigbee sensors are usually quite a bit cheaper than z-wave stuff. So it wouldn't hurt to get the combo.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ826F8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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A buddy of mine swears by this guy, I just bought one myself but haven't had a chance to get it up and running yet.
Holy crap that is ancient tech. Why are they even still making those, N came out 8 years ago. That was not a very good AP in it's prime even. I would highly suggest getting an AP with 802.11ac but even an 802.11n AP would be a dramatic improvement. This is a good one for $60: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Wireless-Archer-C1200/dp/B01IUDUJE0/
Run Speedtest.net and check the results vs what you should have.
and.. FIOS..? You may want to check if your router is ALSO a wifi transmitter. I looked up FIOS routers, and all the current ones on verizon.com include wifi. But that might just be the ones for sale.
If you need one. Heres a basic AC one I just found online with no research. Bestbuy might have open packages that are cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-C1200/dp/B01IUDUJE0/
BUT, this is an investment in knocking out all the lag you see at home. A 10 year old router is a bottleneck in almost any network situation.
Just saying, but most likely your modem, and thus your router, got a spike when the lightning hit because it came in through the cable lines, thus dodging your surge protector.
To fix this, I'd get a router that doesn't cost $20, though that's a good modem. Something like this might be more to your needs. If your router is borked, you will need to replace it. Try updating firmware and whatnot, maybe try DD-WRT firmware to see if that makes a difference.
Thanks! I'm not familiar with TP-Link. I think their entry one would be plenty for me, but I'm worried by multiple reviews saying it died after 5-8 months. You've been happy with their quality?
What's the best wifi repeater out there?
I read about Google Wifi Mesh, but not sure if there are others that definitely better and cheaper?
Get a Ubiquiti ER-X for routing and a used Zoneflex 7962 with a tplink poe injector for wifi:
https://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=0XK-000W-00080
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Ruckus-ZoneFlex-7962-PoE-Access-Point-300-Mbps-Wi-Fi-/222336422560
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Injector-TL-PoE150S/dp/B001PS9E5I
That is $114.34 in total.
Those will be cheaper and work better than many of the combination units. Be sure to enable the smart queue on the ER-X so that your gaming pings remain low even if you are doing background downloads.
Setting up the ruckus unit will require resetting it before you can log into it. The reset is a bit cumbersome, but once you have done it and have set it up, you will love it. It's radio technology is years ahead of anything that you will encounter on the market (despite that being a 802.11n model). It shines when the radio waves are congested or you try going far from the AP. I have gotten a usable 2.4Ghz wifi signal on my cellphone from a ruckus 7982 at 300ft away with 2 walls obstructing the signal. :)
I'm a really big fan of Hikvision cameras. They feel really solid for the price and image quality is very good. I'm looking pretty hard at an Amcrest for my next cam. They're getting decent reviews for the price too.
If you do get a Hikvision, look closely at whether the seller is an authorized distributor. I've gotten a grey-market camera and it was ok, but for a few $ more you can also get support and english firmware updates.
For myself, I have one of these in my garage
DS-2CD2332-I-2.8MM
I have one of these on my front porch.
DS-2CD2142FWD-IS-2.8MM
I have one of these powering them both NETGEAR ProSAFE FS108PNA
An unfinished basement and vinyl siding makes mounting exterior cams more tolerable. http://imgur.com/a/qufyW
For setup / testing, I keep one of these around TP-LINK Gigabit PoE Injector TL-PoE150S
I've also installed many more cameras for friends and family.
One 16 cam setup used a dedicated Hikvision DVR unit, DS-7716NI-SP/16-2TB. It has the PoE switch built in. Setup was pretty quick and he's still really happy with it. Runtime on a 1500VA UPS is pretty respectable too.
I've got a buddy with 8x DS-2CD2032-I-4MM powered by a Passive 10/100 Power over Ethernet PoE Injector. He's having pretty good luck with that setup.
At work we install mostly Axis cameras, but we're trying 24 Avigilon cameras for one section of student housing. They seem pretty well built too. This is a mostly positive post, the only cameras I HATE are made by Arecont Vision.
If you haven't decided on software, I've got an opinion on that too.
I'm running Milestone XProtect Go on a spare PC. It's free for up to 8 cameras, up to 5 days of retention, no charge for the clients. I am familiar since I manage an XProtect Enterprise install at work, but it can be a pain to set up at first.
I've also played with Blue Iris and ZoneMinder. I think Blue Iris is the way to go for most folk.
Just for reference, here is an example PoE injector. Not being limited to batter opens up options if you can run the wire: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I
I don’t have any camera recommendations for you. But I did have a really shitty night camera for awhile. I ended up setting up an external IR light to make up for it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G6K407Q
So that’s something to keep in mind if you are unhappy with whatever you get or want lighting from another source
Most likely just the blue/white blue pair will be connected if you only have one phone line(it could be anything, but I think the blue pair is most common). You can replace the wall plates with a keystone plate and punch a cat 5 block onto the existing cable.
On the other end you will need to have something connected to it, but you could get creative if you don't want to have the router/modem in the closet near the existing box.
What I mean is you can plug the router into any of those ports in any room, and then terminate all of those lines in the box with an RJ45 plug and add a switch in the box.
But wait? There's no power in there! Precisely! You can get a TP link PoE injector (router side) and a Netgear switch with a "PD" port which will be powered by the 12v PoE voltage.
This link is just an example. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Injector-Adapter/dp/B001PS9E5I
For Echo I would consider making my own by cutting the end off of the Amazon power brick and splicing the ends into a network cable, RJ45 male end and RJ45 female end.
Edit: here's someone that made their own somewhat ghetto power injector. Same idea. http://tech.firstpost.com/news-analysis/how-to-make-a-power-over-ethernet-poe-adapter-19818.html
your camera is POE. you cannot power it directly from your PC.
if your regular wifi router is not POE, it will also not power the camera.
you need a POE power injector, such as : https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-Compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/
however, you describe lights coming on, so i'm assuming you've got it powered up....
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most IP cameras will boot up into their default IP address.
this should be in the documentation included w/the cam.
whatever your cameras default IP is, your computer needs to be in the same domain.
if camera is 192.168.1.10 as default, your computer needs to be 192.168.1.X
you'll set your computer to that IP address, and then connect the network port through your POE injector and connect to the camera. you should see it then.
once you can log into the camera, you can set the IP address to whatever the rest of your network uses.
Check NP-300 (IPV6 ready, 300mbps) and the N450 (450MBPS, three antennas)
For a straight AP that's probably the least expensive reliable model. Other than range, better AP typically give you better speed and reliability even when you have several devices nearby.
if price is at a premium, I'd pick up something like a TP-Link N450 router and put it in AP mode. If it works as a switch too, you're set, if not, it's compatible with OpenWRT. For same-room surfing and such it should work fine.
I wouldn't go to best buy, I'd recommend buying it online. If you can't buy it online go to bestbuy and get them to price match an item.
I'd recommend this one.
Edit: If you want a newer option I'd recommend this one. ~$30 more
I want to get a wireless router for my home, what is a good one to get?
1 ps4(ethernet cable), 2 xbox 360's(Ethernet cable), 2 tablets(wifi), 2 Phones (wifi), 2 laptops (1 ethernet, 1 wifi). I live in a 1 bedroom apartment so range isnt really an issue. That being said, i would like to get the Best router. Does anyone know where i can go to research them? or what i should be looking for in a router?
Edit - I have gotten so much usefull advice, and learned so much! although i feel like there is still lots tht i dont know. that being saig, i thought of a new question:
Is my current router (SURFboard SBG6580) any good? I am not sure how to interpet the information listed on amazon.com, it all looks so forgin. and even the things that i think i recognize, dont seem to make any sense.
I think i will just end up buying whatever u/zakabog recommends. he seems pretty on the ball. :)
For a little bit more, why not upgrade to the 6580 and get wifi as well all in one unit?
http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SURFboard-SBG6580-Packaging-570763-006-00/dp/B0040IUI46
This used to happen to me. It is Comcast's DNS servers that are doing this. To bypass them, you can change your settings on your phone pretty easily. I used open dns and it worked.
p.s. You can't change the DNS on comcast's routers though, I ended up getting a new box myself and I don't pay the 10 lease fee per month. I know the router is expensive, but it pays up in 12 months. That's 120 dollars you don't give to Comcast. Also they can't use your modem for a hotspot.
Well then it could definitely be your WIFI adapter. If the other desktop has a WIFI adapter you could try it. If not, you might try a different PCIe port for the WIFI. Although a lot of motherboards don't have extra PCIe ports. There are some cheap USB WIFI adapters so you might try one of those. I use this adapter. It's inexpensive and gets the job done.
I'm looking at http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00416Q5KI/?tag=pcp0f-20 and http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0035GU3QM/?tag=pcp0f-20 it doesn't really say if it supports Windows 8 or not, it confuses me. It doesn't mention it in either of them but it lists all the other os.
Got me a TP-Link TL-WN822N and it's awesome. Working perfektly under Arch and great connection stability and speed.
this modem + this router
Its $174 but you really get more for that $24
I have the same exact modem, its awesome, I get 100mbps on it with their 90 plan. I have the bigger brother to that router, but my freind has one and its worked great for 2 years.
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-reviews/31436-asus-rt-n56u-black-diamond-dual-band-gigabit-wireless-n-router-reviewed
Asus RT N 56 U.
Less than a hundred.
http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-N-Router-RT-N56U/dp/B0049YQVHE
That is just for info, shop around for price. I have seen them with discounts or rebates at Newegg.
>I don't want to buy a Belkin or a Linksys, unless Linksys has got their act together as of late
I am so glad you know that, and no, linksys has not gotten their act together at all since being bought out by belkin. Sorry.
That would be This bad boy right here. The ASUS RT-N56U. We pay for boost at home for 50 down and 8 up. When I'm on 5Ghz wifi, I get all 50 down and 8 up. Pretty nice to have that sort of speed and not have to use an Ethernet cable.
What's also cool is that I'm still using my laptop from 2008. I paid a ton for it then, when 5G wifi was barely available. That machine is still kicking ass after 4 years.
I ran CAT5e to the three bedrooms and to the entertainment center wall. One drop in the two small bedrooms, two drops to the master bedroom, and two drops to the entertainment center.
I terminated the rooms to Cable Matters keystones.
I'm using an Asus RT-N56U wireless router and a Trendnet TEG-S80g 8port gigabit switch with an Intellinet 12 port patch panel.
It's patched together with cable matters 3ft patch cables.
I have fiber internet service(no modem needed).
I had anticipated another cable run for a Ubiquity WAP, but after I tested the signal coverage from the Asus router it was not needed(full coverage everywhere in the house).
This is one of my favorites.
It meets/surpasses all of your requirements.
Okay, that makes more sense lol. Thank you.
I think I've got all the info I need. At this point I'm just comparing three similar routers:
The one you recommended
This Asus one that's a dollar less
And this Asus one that looks to be the same as the other Asus but is $ cheaper and has 300 less max speed
All three are dual-band so it's just a matter of picking one. The TP-Link one says it has a 2 year warranty and 24/7 customer service so that might be worthwhile. It also has the highest max speed but that doesn't really make a huge difference to me since my internet is capped at 25 anyway. The TP-Link is the most expensive, $17 more than the cheapest Asus one. Hmmm.
I've never, in the history of ever, had a signal precariously drop out like that (beyond an internet outage on the back-end). I'd suggest looking at reviews to find a non-shitty router, instead of just jumping to the most expensive router under the assumption that it will be of high quality. This is a killer router that outperforms the Airport any day of the week. That being said, beyond a certain level of range, you can't expect any router to provide stable connectivity. If your house is any bigger than 2500-3000ft^2 , you should probably look into getting a repeater. Otherwise, you should have no problem covering it with a good, centrally placed router.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00723KZTY/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Buy this one used. Right now there is one for $36 with prime shipping. I got a used one for 29.95, and but so far it works great. It is on the Suddenlink recommended modem list as well.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049YQVHE/ref=ox_ya_os_product
That is the router I bought, but you really won't need anything like that one if you don't care about WirelessN. Together I paid $130 for the two.
There are devices that will convert Wifi to an ethernet connection. You could probably get something like this: http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6
You could also tether a cell phone to a laptop and bridge your connection over the laptop's ethernet port. You may also be able to bridge wifi over the ethernet port as well, this will probably vary from network to network.
You can save an awful lot of money by not paying for your ISP to set up your Wifi. Buy your own Wifi router, configure it yourself, and only pay for Cox's internet.
Get your own Modem if you can, too.
For the modem, you might want to get something like this if you're paying for less than 300Mbp/s (and there is ZERO point in paying for more if you're only connecting wirelessly) or this if you're paying for gigabit and have hardwired ethernet devices.
For the router, if you're living in an apartment or small house where you only need one Wifi access point, something like this should work great, since it has an easy setup app available. If you're in a bigger space (e.g. multi-story or 3+ bedroom house), you might consider this or this, since both are designed for easy setup.
If you go with the 300Mbps plan from Cox, at $80 a month, even with the big space and $300 Mesh Wifi routers, you'd be saving money after six months. It's even faster if you only need a smaller space or are willing to drop to a slower internet speed (I seriously doubt you'll notice anything faster than 100Mbps, which is $60/mo, and if it's just 1-2 and you don't watch Netflix at 4k, even 30Mbps at $40/mo is likely sufficient). Likely, you'll still have to call Cox and complain to them every 12 months or so to get the "promotional" pricing... threaten to quit every time they try to raise your prices and the like.
Setting it all up will involve telling Cox you're putting in the new equipment, and returning the old equipment. I suggest doing this all in-store. If you call, they're likely to insist on a "professional installation" which gets crazy expensive, especially since they don't really need to go to your place to do anything... they just need to flip a switch on their backend (in the Cox offices) to accept the MAC address of your new modem instead of the old one... and if you already own your own modem, they don't even need to do that much (since you wouldn't need to switch it out).
Setting up your own Wifi isn't complicated. Plenty of tutorials all over Google if you need them. Cox charging to install wifi and modems is a scam based entirely on people not realizing how easy it can be.
Source: Being a Senior-Level Computer Networking Professional.
(Now, a Lady like me could do it cheaper / better than what I suggest here, but it would require a bit more expertise)
On sale at Amazon in the US right now. Not sure if same price elsewhere.
https://www.amazon.com/Google-Wifi-system-set-replacement/dp/B01MAW2294/ref=zg_bs_300189_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=3HCN0NB4NEMW9WZN6YR3
Noticed it is the best selling router on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Best-Sellers-Computers-Accessories-Computer-Routers/zgbs/pc/300189
Pre-ordered ours and love them. Replaced out AirPort Extremes when the news came down that Apple was ending development.
"Why is Apple abandoning the AirPort Extreme, AirPort Express and AirPort Time Capsule?"
http://www.cio.com/article/3143606/consumer-electronics/why-is-apple-abandoning-the-airport-extreme-airport-express-and-airport-time-capsule.html
Last update was 7.7.8 late last year and guess that is it.
Might try looking into wifi extenders or PoE access points (personally recommend Ubiquiti). There's also the Google WiFi system, which offers great performance at a cheaper price than Orbi.
Looks like I may have found the answer. See below Q&A from Amazon.com. The answer was provided by someone designated as the "Manufacturer"
Question: Some of the pictures show a single cord going to the router. Does that mean it accepts power over ethernet, or are these wifi->wifi extenders?
Answer: Google Wifi is a "mesh" Wi-Fi system, they are not extenders for your existing router. The first Wifi point plugs into your modem with an Ethernet cord, and plugs in to power. Others plug in to regular power outlets in your home. They connect wirelessly to one another to create a single Wi-Fi network within your home. If you have Ethernet ports throughout your house, you can also hardwire each point. If you hardwire the units, you will still get a single Wi-Fi network throughout your house and the points will use Ethernet for connectivity between each other.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MAW2294/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1#Ask
Make them buy PoE splitters, the cheap kind with USB 5V output and no pass-through capability.
That way they have a "filter" for their devices, and can also charge their cell phones :)
Rather than 3D print something, maybe consider something like this (http://imgur.com/gallery/tBaSB). It's what I'm planning to do. Mix it with a POE adapter (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7) for power and it should be great.
You cab also use something like this that will work and is much cheaper than having PoE directly on the Pi
This is going into /r/homelab territory, but I've gotten a few of these guys to power some Pis, gateways, etc, from my switch at home. They can be used to power anything that's USB.
At work, in the theater, there's some iPads mounted on the walls for the sound system (you can remotely control the faders and such). They have a small PoE to USB-A brick inside, which run back to the sound cabinet where a small trendnet PoE switch lives. keeps then charged, but also cycles some battery when you turn the rack off.
Another thing to keep in mind that as the switch is powering more, it's going to take more power, which means you may need a larger UPS.
Each node / R-Pi / SBC gets one of these: https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-802-3af-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry/dp/B01MDLUSE7/
I am using this for powering the Pi over POE:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MDLUSE7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Been using two of these for almost two years. Solid.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MDLUSE7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm just gonna use this. Not as pretty but works.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MDLUSE7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Where is your router currently positioned? It could be simply a matter of too great a distance from your devices, 5GHz would give you more bandwidth if you already have a strong signal, but if you have a weak signal it will only get worse.
If you want 5GHz then pickup an 802.11ac compatible Wireless Access Point, and hard wire that to your current router, position it well for your TV to get a good signal. Also, for the Steam Link, you'll want to hard wire that to your router if possible, running it over wireless is far from ideal. Another option is going straight with a Powerline adapter and hard wire your devices with that (possibly wire that to a cheap 5 port gigabit switch and then connect your TV and Steam Link directly to the switch.)
i haven't had any issues with ping spikes - definitely a huge improvement over wifi. setup is usually just plugging them into a socket and hooking up an ethernet cable to your router/computer
i use this one, mostly because it's for 2 prong sockets: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6HtPCbAGM8MFH
I had Wyze cameras and had 3D printed outdoor housings but the quality wasn't great at night after our last run in.
Went Ubiquiti. Three G3-FLEX cameras (four tonight) and ran some CAT6 with a powerline adapter for the camera you see above. I'm runing the UniFi Video software on an old Mac mini with a 5TB USB HD but I'm strongly considering one of their CloudKey Gen 2+ to dedicate specific hardware for the cameras/network.
The interface is fantastic, the camera quality is fantastic (they also offer a 4K camera though $$$), and security hardened. I like the idea of them being wired to take that busy constant video traffic off of wifi.
Edit: added links
Here: https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Receiver-Transfer-Wireless-Keyboard/dp/B0775YF36R
Or just look up "USB Bluetooth adapter" on Amazon/eBay. I actually bought some from eBay (generic Chinese brands tho) for like $1-2 each a few years ago. They actually worked fine.
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EDIT: There are also adapters that connect to an audio jack, but they require a separate cable for power, which will be a USB cable anyway, so you should just get a USB adapter like I mentioned above.
You can use a simple ethernet to WiFi adapter like either of these from IoGear:
Ethernet to Wi-Fi N Adapter for Home or Office, GWU627
Ethernet-2-WiFi Universal Wireless Adapter, GWU637
Sure! You'll need a wireless bridge. Something like this .
Mine is an original wired Xbox controller.
I am using a non-powered hub. Here's the one I have.
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1_m?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1411509537&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+hub
OKAY! So, I think this is pretty much everything that makes my setup what it is. If you see anything I’ve missed and are curious about, or want more details as to how everything came together, lemme know!
(Didn’t trust USB 3.0 with my wireless accessories, and I love the individual button on control on this guy. Plus, you can’t beat that price!)
Materials and Tools Used, Step By Step:
Base pieces:
3/4” pine (ply for base, solid for wrist rests)
Table saw for cutting large pieces
Jig saw for details and wrist rests
Molding wrist rests/rounding edges:
Belt sander (Turned upside down, ‘cause I’m not super strong lol)
Wrist Rest Adhesion:
Wood clamps
Wood glue
Attaching Hardware:
Drill with 3/16 and 5/16” bits for cam lock screws
1/4” Drill bit for threaded inserts
1/4” Threaded Inserts
5/8” Forstner bit for cam locks - $8.97
1/4” Dowel Centers for lining everything up - $5.83/4-pack
12mm Cam locks/screws
Finishing product:
Detail sander, 150-grit
Hand Sanding, 220-grit
3x Minwax Deep Mahogany Stain
2x Minwax Fast Drying Gloss Polyurethane
Logitech Trackman Marble Adaption:
Blade for scoring trackball and cutting cover
Hacksaw the tail off
Sand down with 220-grit
Cardboard (from inside of a binder cover) to create cover piece
Oil Rubbed Bronze Metallic Spray paint to sorta match
The other two things you’ll see in the pics are more specific to my transcription job, but in case there’s any interest:
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414788313&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+hub
Problem solved
You can get a hub for under $10. I use this one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWF5U0M
No but get one of these. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BWF5U0M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453228438&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=usb+hub+switch&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=519JLN5GTLL&amp;ref=plSrch
Keep it connected to your router much easier to setup and you can share media through different devices.
I store my media on NAS device and managing it through /r/PleX media server. Works extremely well and does all the transcoding.
The NP though is connected through [Ethernet Network Adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ET4KHJ2/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) and [4-Port USB 2.0 Hub] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWF5U0M/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1). just make sure its 2.0 usb dont know why but 3.0 wont work.
First thing to note: modems are typically used to convert a digital signal to analog. This is used by cable providers that deliver internet access via their existing cables.
FiOS is fiber, it's already a digital signal. The router you have is therefore, not a modem and does not offer a modem's function.
That said, it does include what most modern routers do, a firewall (yes this used to be a separate device), a Wireless Access Point (WAP), and a switch.
What you need to keep in mind is that if you subscribe to FiOS TV service, you will probably need to keep the VZ router. This is because the router does offer MoCA, a protocol used to deliver data over coax cable for the STBs (set top boxes).
So your question really comes down to "how do I take control over my network?"
Simple, buy a router, buy a WAP and if you need MoCA service, buy a MoCA bridge. If you want an all in one device that offers great performance, check out the Asus AC66U or the AC68U. People here are big fans, I myself have the earlier model (66) and I'm very pleased.
If you want to step up your game and get separate hardware, look into prosumer routers. Mikrotik and EdgeRouter Lite have some good options. Someone here is a fan of the EdgeRouter Lite.
For WAP look no further then Ubuquiti. Get a N model or maybe the AC if you got the cash.
Trendnet has some really nice unmanaged switches.
---
Set up
With the all in one: ISP > router > possible switch > possible MoCA bridge
With the stand alone devices: ISP > router > switch > WAP + possible MoCA bridge
After further searching this subreddit...would this setup work:
Modem --> Router --> PoE Switch --> 3 AP's spread throughout the shop, all broadcasting the same SSID and Password for seamless/smart transitioning.
Since you don't want to get rid of one of the providers, let's combine them!
Proposed Layout:
http://imgur.com/FzGXyE4
Bear in mind that you will need to locate the wiring and current switch used to distribute the Internet access from ISP B to your wall jacks and modify it to fit the layout above. Your current setup from ISP B probably looks something like this: http://imgur.com/K6GEXr7
For the Multi-WAN router I suggest a server running pfSense (http://pfsense.org/) or an EdgeRouter Lite from Ubiquiti (http://www.amazon.com/EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-512MB-Ethernet-Router/dp/B00CPRVF5K). This will allow you to combine and balance the load between both Internet connections.
The Optional Switch devices at the top of the network allow you plug devices directly into the network from ISP A or ISP B, bypassing the combined connection. You would only do this is there is not a way to handle the connection for those devices through the combined connection. You should be able to do everything through the combined connection, but it may take some tinkering around with load balancer rules and firewall rules, so the Optional Switches are a super easy way to get the same functionality if you don't want to burn time doing configs. All switches in this diagram can be basic unmanaged switches, any off the shelf device from your local electronics retailer will do the trick.
For the Access Points, I highly recommend replacing your routers with real access points. This can be done with routers by switching them to AP-only mode, but you will encounter issues with having to manually align the configs between devices, etc. For an entry level exercise, I'd suggest Ubiquiti's UniFi AP line -- 2.4ghz-only APs start at $69, and the 5ghz AP options start at $229. 2.4ghz is fine if you're in a house by itself without other signals nearby; if you're in an area with many other wireless signals present (besides the ones from the routers you will be replacing), you should get 5ghz access points. https://store.ubnt.com/unifi.html
The other major benefit that getting real access points like UniFi will provide is the ability to manage them from a single central point. You can align and roll out configs to all devices simultaneously, and you also get a single view of traffic and usage across the entire network which helps identify and resolve any issues that may crop up.
I hope this helps!
Router: Low power, low cost, fast, 3 gigabit interfaces, Linux, good WebUI, good forum support, no moving parts/reliable... http://www.amazon.com/EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-512MB-Ethernet-Router/dp/B00CPRVF5K/
Wireless: http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-UniFi-Enterprise-System/dp/B004XXMUCQ/
Let the router be a router, don't have 1 box try to do too many things. Keep your router/firewall separate from being a server, it's better that way.
That could prove problematic but I think it's doable with the right hardware. Another option might be something like this, though you would have to verify it has the capabilities you need: http://www.amazon.com/EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-512MB-Ethernet-Router/dp/B00CPRVF5K
build your own out of an old box with vyos or pickup an edgerouterlite and a ubiquity unifi AP
I use this one. It's pretty cheap TP-LINK TL-WA850RE 300Mbps Universal Wi-Fi Range Extender, Repeater, Wall Plug design, One-button Setup, Smart Signal Indicator by TP-LINK http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E98O7GC/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_sACWtb1HR1ZAP
Honestly I doubt it. The built-in wifi in all of the small android boxes, Ouya included seems to be pretty shitty. Mine was about 20 feet away from a pretty high end router and it was disconnecting randomly. I added a wireless N access point like this one and it's been butter smooth since.
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wi-Fi-Range-Extender-TL-WA850RE/dp/B00E98O7GC, set this up in the middle between the router and your xbox.
You'll have to run three separate cables. Ethernet isn't really like power where you can twist the wires together in the box; each cable has to be terminated at each end (switch and wall plate). Your router will need to have at least 3 ports on the back for devices to connect.
The other option is to run just one cable, and have an ethernet switch at your TV.
I would recommend running at least Cat6 cable, if not Cat6A (do not run Cat5, and I wouldn't recommend Cat5e either). Cat6 will allow for Gigabit speeds (1Gbps) over your network, assuming your router is capable of that speed. If not, when you upgrade your router you won't need to upgrade your cabling too. It's worth the few extra bucks to not have to fish cables again.
I'd probably swap out that 3-port wall plate for a 4-port one, just so you can run another device in the future (even if you don't run a 4th cable now, leave it open and leave a pulling cord in the run so you can pull another one later if need be).
EDIT: Advantage of running an extra cable: you can get a cheap Wi-Fi access point and plug it into that port, to extend Wi-Fi coverage if that area of your house has poor coverage. Don't even need a router, something like this would work: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wi-Fi-Range-Extender-TL-WA850RE/dp/B00E98O7GC/ref=lp_1194486_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450405886&amp;sr=1-2)
wifi booster.
Plug this thing into an outlet in your garage.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E98O7GC/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1535523722&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B004YAYM06&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=13QX6MT0C5E06VZNR472
$68 on Amazon
> How much do they cost?
AP - $68
Ubiquiti ERX- $50
So we're at $130 for both items that perform substantially better than an all-in-one, like the AC68U which is ~$135
Why would you NOT want businesa grade equipment? It performs better, it's actually patched for vulnerabilities, and it lasts longer. For around the same price.
This exactly.
Start with a cheap, unmanaged 8-port switch. They cost anywhere from $10-$40, depending on brand/speed. If you want really go cheap, pass on the gigabit switch and just get one that goes up to 100 Mbps. I would just get the 1000 Mbps though.
Then, add an AP (like this https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-UAP-US/dp/B00HXT8R2O/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474114110&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=unifi) and you'll still have 6 ports to plug in devices.
I was probably gonna go with Ubiquity as I am returning my DLink 895L (complete garbage btw) and replacing it with a pfsense box + this AP. I end up paying less than the stupid Dlink router and have much more control and power.
Just to add a little to /u/IWillNotBeBroken you can do the basics of what he suggest your self using some freely available tools. I like the android app Wifi Analyzer for doing general site surveys. It will show you what channels are in use and let you gauge your own coverage.
But generally speaking I would not trust a "good router" to handle 20+ Wifi connections. Most good routers are home user grade (linksys, netgear, etc) and not made to handle that much. Depending on the size of the area you are trying to cover I like ubiquiti for smaller places, I'm imagining you as a small office or net cafe? Get a mid range 48port switch you can can wire to all the computers and printers as needed and still have a few ports to install these wifi devices.
This is the one people usually recommend for cheap if just basic 802.1q is needed.
So, your hardware looks good. As to your intended usage:
Don't bridge NICs to create a switch. The switching will be done in CPU instead of on an ASIC and is not a great idea (though it is *possible*). Get yourself a managed or smart switch and call it a day. You can pick up a TP-Link SG-108E for about $40. Make sure whatever switch you choose supports 802.1q VLANs. This necessarily implies a smart or managed switch.
WiFi support on pfSense is abysmal, because FreeBSD's driver support for WiFi chipsets is abysmal. This is not going to change any time soon. You could go out of your way to find a chipset that is supported, or you could spend the $80 on a UAP-AC-Lite, be done with it, and not worry about it any more for years to come. A separate AP is going to outperform onboard WiFi all day long and is much less of a headache.
You're on the right track and everything you want to do with regards to VLANs, ACLs, etc. that box can do for years to come. But you should really split off switching and wireless to dedicated devices, just for the sake of less headache and more performance.
EDIT: Here is a thread from just a couple months ago that implies that the onboard WiFi chipset on your chosen board is not (yet) supported on FreeBSD. The FreeBSD iwm module manpage shows previous versions of this chipset *are* supported, so support for your chipset may come in the future. But that could be months or years away.
That depends. I have a TP-Link managed home switch that is so particular that it requires the computer accessing the management console to be on the same subnet and gateway block as the device. Mind you that you can change the subnet and gateway address on the switch using the windows application without accessing the management console directly, so it would make sense to be able to be able to access the console without having to meet those requirements. Once I can actually access the console, though, the options are quite nice, ranging from loop protection and QoS to MTU vLANs.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Managed-TL-SG108E/dp/B00K4DS5KU
Perfect. That's actually the one I meant to link, but forgot. I am thinking the 8 port version.
Looks like TP-Link could save me a few bucks.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Managed-TL-SG108E/dp/B00K4DS5KU/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496602150&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=vlan+switch+8-port
/u/Qui_Gon_Gin listen to this guy. I have my network setup exactly like this. You'll have to learn about VLANS to do it, but you can get a managed switch like this, or you could get a more robust one like this or like this.
Ah, I see, but still there is managed version for just $7 more.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Managed-TL-SG108E/dp/B00K4DS5KU/
Oops. I was looking at the wrong manual. Sorry! I still can't find anything on the repeater feature.
Worst case, you can use something like this to connect to your cellular device's wireless network and then plug it into the WAN/Internet port on the D-Link.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gptwzb55QP4WZ
a Wi-Fi/Ethernet adapter like this IOGEAR Universal Ethernet to Wi-Fi N Adapter for Home or Office, GWU627
Should be able to get this thing to join your wifi network from the hotspot and hand off a wired interface to the MoCA gear. Is the bluray player wifi only? Seems like ti would be easier to just connect it with a cable to the other end of the MoCA setup.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UAKCS6
After messing around with bridging and everything I could not make a setup like this work. I wound up using THIS to receive wifi and send to via ethernet to the router WAN port.
You may have a lot of trouble making that wireless work.
Does this machine have ethernet? If so you could use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UAKCS6
Could always use an ethernet to wireless adapter like this https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6
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It's not the prettiest but it won't involve any drilling.
No idea on that, never owned a beaglebone. I would think they would work, but there may be some differences.
At least the usb dongles for the pi are decently cheap. And it is always handy to have a known 'linux compatible' dongle - for getting problematic built in wifi drivers working on some laptops.
Since it has an actual network port, you could use one of those Network -> wifi 'dongles' like..
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6
I have used those in the past for hooking up Non-wifi enabled devices to the wifi.
but that is a little overkill i think.
You can connect an ethernet to wifi adapter to the box for wireless access.
An example:
[IOGEAR Universal Ethernet](https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6)
I got the same one from Amazon for $12 cheaper than what the 4GCommunity offers on their website.
As ePaperWeight mentioned, your shopping list would have a lot to do with what you plan on doing with it.
Keep in mind that the Pi Zero is very cheap partly because it does not have nearly as many ports as a full size Pi. It also has a less capable CPU than a full Pi 3. That being said, it's still impressive that its CPU and RAM are in line with older Pis that were used in all sorts of projects.
The lack of ports means that if you want to connect to USB, HDMI, Ethernet, or Wifi you will need adapters.
For the bare minimum for getting started I would suggest the items included in this kit (not necessarily suggesting the kit itself, these are all standard parts):
https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Zero-Starter-Kit/dp/B01N3XNPAM/ref=sr_1_1
This will allow you to get a Zero to boot up and display on a monitor. The single USB port will limit what you can connect, but a wireless keyboard / mouse dongle will at least give you standard input devices.
In order to connect Wifi or Ethernet in addition to a keyboard you will need a USB hub; preferably a powered hub.
To connect a Pi Camera you'll not only need the camera module, but an adapter ribbon cable (the Zero's port is slightly smaller).
The GPIO header does not include pins. This is more configurable, but means that you'll need to solder your own.
As you can see, all this can quickly add up. The Pi Zero really highlights the value of a full Pi. So if you're considering the Zero in order to save money run the numbers. You might not be saving much.
The size and lower power requirements of the Zero make it great for embedded projects. Anything that runs on a battery or needs to fit in a small case would benefit from using a Zero. Even then, the faster speed of a Pi 3 means that it will be a smoother experience to program on the 3 even if you plan to migrate the software to the Zero.
Other links for reference:
TLDR; Pick a project and work backwards to figure out a shopping list. Otherwise you'll spend way too much or your new Zero will probably live in a desk drawer.
I use an external USB soundcard with a USB hub with individual switches. When you turn on the switch, it goes to me headphones. When I turn it off, it goes back to speakers.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=pd_sim_147_3?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=519JLN5GTLL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=CRQ01Z8W9J8BRX6DS09X
A thirdworlder could have fixed this problem.
Hell, they probably built it.
It's not so "cool" but rather quite practical... I guess the lights are kinda cool =) I'm gonna be needing these pretty soon
Thanks for the contest.
Hurrah, hurrah! ^____^ <3 I submit to you, this handsome USB hub!. And, for my furry friend, a gift he will probably hate. Ohohoho! (-: Thank you for the contest. It's too damn hot outside. It's too damn hot inside!
Yes you take up 1 port but on the bright side it does come with a spilt for charging + reciver
The Plus model just came out recently so there actually is not many bluetooth ones around. They only have the Blue colored (heh) bluetooth i8+ it also it a bit more at 27.99.
Honestly what I would do, if I wasn't using an rpi3 which has 4 usb slots, is get the RF for 21.99 then get a 4 way usb splitter for your other port for 6.49
Here's a dope ass chrome rii i8+ lol
I've seen USB hubs with switches to turn off specific ports. You could set up the controllers, wire the switch up to an exterior panel (or leave the buttons exposed) and use the button to enable/disable controllers.
Sabrent 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs (HB-UMLS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KT0pzbNVJYYM9
That is literally the first result from amazon, but I've seen 8 port ones with physical switches as well, which you may be able to extend out of the cabinet.
If you want USB mics, then there are such things as USB port 'extensions' (such as this one). If you want XLR mics than you can get a Audio Interface/Mixer (a mixer would probably be best for podcasting) that is powered by USB, so you can plug the mics into the mixer/interface then plug that into your computer.
I guess that depends on what it is he wants to power. If his retail business is selling weed and he needs to keep those 6-8 burner phones charging (kidding! :p) then it wouldn't take much demand at all and the PSU here will be fine - it's a no-name budget one, but the power demand is extremely low (129W on a 480W PSU) so it's not going to cause issues, but if it is more demanding items he might be best to use something like an EVGA 500W/600W for $20 more - https://pcpartpicker.com/product/V9bp99/evga-power-supply-100b10600kr
The motherboard has six USB inputs and typically cases have two on the front - one would be used by the wifi adapter and likely two more by the keyboard and mouse leaving five. The easiest way to add more might just be to get a USB splitter which use one but give four, so bring him back up to 8 inputs available, good ones can be had for less than $10 - https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501748521&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+splitter . You can get motherboards with more inputs but typically they tend to cost a good deal more than that.
Ah crap, I knew I forgot something. This is the hub I plan on getting right now.
the thunderbolt dongle won't help because that port on the 2012 macbook is a mini-display-port. Same entry hole, different standard. I would recommend getting a cheap usb 2.0 hub like this one. You can also buy USBin to firewire out adapters
Sorry, I just added the link. Would a hub like this work, if plugged into a cigarette lighter adapter in a car?
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1373999536&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=USB+hub
Wow. That is bargain priced. I also came across https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeMax-EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-Ethernet/dp/B00CPRVF5K It seems to have 2x the RAM, but 2 fewer ports. The ports don't concern me much, most of my network is on wifi so would only use 1 port on the ERLite-3 for my home network. It costs a little more, but still under $100.
This is now officially off-topic, so I think I may do some spelunking on /r/networking or /r/homenetworking. Perhaps post a query there and with some luck it won't turn into a religious war.
Have you looked into the Ubiquiti line? A setup often recommended because of the great quality for the price is a Ubiquiti Edgerouter Lite for the router paired with one or more Unifi AP-AC-LITEs for the wifi. You get business-class hardware for not-business prices, and the flexibility of being able to add more access points if your house needs them.
We just re-did our company network and we bought this 3 pack of Ubiquiti Access points
http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-UAP-AC-3-Enterprise-System/dp/B00E46Y8ZE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1409684343&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=ubiquiti+3+pack
We also got the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite
http://www.amazon.com/EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-512MB-Ethernet-Router/dp/B00CPRVF5K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1409684392&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ubiquiti+edgerouter+lite
We're in a ~7000sq ft poured concrete building and they have been rock solid.
https://www.ubnt.com/edgemax/edgerouter-lite/
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeMax-EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-Ethernet/dp/B00CPRVF5K
I have a 3rd party router + MoCA adapter setup, works perfectly.
The ONT. Nothing too special here, it's an indoor model, just note that the Ethernet and Coax lines are both connected. The Ethernet line goes to the router in the next pic, the Coax line goes to a 2-way splitter. One line from it goes to the MoCA adapter, the other goes to a 4-way splitter and the lines from it go to the cable boxes.
Network gear, front view. The router is at the top, the left port on it goes to the ONT, the right one goes to the switch. It's a router only, it doesn't have a switch and AP built in like consumer "wireless routers" do. The patch panel is in the middle, the Ethernet lines running to all the rooms terminate here. The switch at the bottom connects to all of these as well as the router, MoCA adapter, and APs.
Network gear, rear view. The switch and patch panel can be seen at the bottom, the outlet and surge protector in the middle. At the top right are the two PoE injectors for the two access points. The APs themselves are on the first and second floors, all you're seeing here is in the basement. And of course the MoCA adapter is at the top left.
I think the ERL might be my best bet with IPSec. 100Mbps sounds good enough. Although I do have a question about the ERL. On the ubiquiti website link the model sold looks different from the one on amazon link . Would I be fine with getting the one on amazon?
Yeah I've been thinking about replacing mine, but worried about compatibility. Is that one the consensus best replacement for the Google box?
Is it this one? https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeMax-EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-Ethernet/dp/B00CPRVF5K
http://blog.voltaicideas.net/2014/07/15/unboxing-edgerouter-lite.html
http://www.amazon.com/EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-512MB-Ethernet-Router/dp/B00CPRVF5K
Yup, the EdgeRouter Lite will handle dual-WAN no problem, and can do so with hardware offload to get gigabit-range speeds. Hands down the best value for a low-end router.
neither option is optimal. go with a good router straight off the modem with a 8 port SWITCH right next to it. then either use a couple waps or routers configured in wap mode to fulfill your wireless needs. most applications only call for one router in the network and unless configured correctly you can get some pretty big headaches from having more than one device issuing dhcp on the same network (not good) do you already have the components and if so what are they? if not we can definitely give you parts recommendations to really streamline things!
edit: if your in a position to start from scratch:
Ubiquiti Edgerouter and
Netgear switch and
Unify AP's
unifi edgerouter pro?
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Edgerouter-Router-ERPro-8/dp/B00IA5J8M8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482244358&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=edgerouter+pro
or go with the edgerouter lite.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeMax-EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-Ethernet/dp/B00CPRVF5K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482252010&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=edgerouter+lite
you're the man.
So Modem to this > http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CPRVF5K
Then from the router to > http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SG108E-8-Port-Gigabit-Tag-Based/dp/B00K4DS5KU/
One port on that switch to an AP right next to it
another port on that switch to the wire going upstairs hooked up to the other AP.
The AP's I'm looking to get. http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-UniFi-Enterprise-System/dp/B00D80J2XU
let me know how that setup looks. let me know if you think I should go for cat6 cable or whatever. at this point that'd just be a drop in the bucket. Last thing to note. This small home network has a ton of wireless devices. chromecasts out the ass, evryone has a mobile phone and tablet, and laptop. Talking like 40-50 devices going to be on the network. think the router will handle that or should I upgrade it.
The TP-Link ones are about the same price, and i'd expect them to work better than something called "COMFAST"
Just my two cents.
DD-WRT is a way to link and extend your wifi network using your routers, if they are compatible. Some routers even have an option to act as an access point all on their own. If your routers are both compatible with DD-WRT, here is an article explaining how to do it.
On a related topic, I just purchased a couple of Range Extenders for $28/ea. for a client who has a large house. Simplistic to use, they work like a champ. Zero technical skill required.
I bought a Tplink range extender and it works great so far. Im usually getting 70-100% signal strength through one floor and several walls.
This netgear seems like a good deal because of the external antennas but don't think you need external antennas if its only an apartment.
Solutions I'd recommend.
You are suffering from what's called 'packet loss'. Basically, you lose connection for a very short amount of time (milliseconds to a second). During this time, the game is not recieving any signal from your computer, so it continues the last known input.
For example, if I was banking left, and lost connection, the game server will keep me banking left until I regained connection.
Are you on a wireless connection? If so, switch to wired, there really is no reason to go wireless anymore unless you live in a mansion. In that case, you should have enough money to have someone run some ethernet (you're rich, just get straight fiber lol) to your room.
If for whatever reason you're a filthy peasant, don't live in a mansion, aren't super rich, and have to use wireless for some reason, buy a cheap repeater.
I actually jump through two repeaters to the main router, as I rent a guest 'house' that doesn't have anything hardwired, and I manage to play just fine aside from weird weather.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wi-Fi-Range-Extender-TL-WA850RE/dp/B00E98O7GC
I use this exact model, and can attest it works up to ~100 or so feet reliably, and you can daisy chain up to two with minimal hit to latency.
Here. Basically what I got as my router is in the basement now and I wanted connectivity on the 2nd floor. It sits in my family room and works fine.
this is what I have, though there are better ones
For an actual wired connection, try these
The power line adapters are great if you don't have a way or means to run Ethernet, but the signal is dirty. I'm my opinion, it is better than a repeated wireless signal.
I will say though, I once used the wireless repeats, to capture wifi, that was from a router also capturing wifi, and it worked great still.
TP-LINK TL-WA850RE N300 Universal Wireless Range Extender, Wall Plug, Plug&Play, Ethernet Port, Smart Signal Indicator Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E98O7GC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_trwKub18E1RWP
buy this: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WA850RE-Universal-Wireless-Indicator/dp/B00E98O7GC
Then set it up to mimic a wifi connection. You can then change the name/password all you want. It's good for a guest internet or extending the range of your wifi by a bit. I get good dl speeds on it, but a bit slower ping.
You can get an extender, but it isn't for the PS4 itself.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E98O7GC
This re-broadcasts your routers signal, not the PS4's reception. You would want to put it somewhere in between the router and the PS4 where the signal is still relatively strong.
Normally I would advise you to get a wifi bridge like this here. You would need another access point at your grandma's house to create another wifi network (if I'm not mistaken).
Since, however, you said that your grandma doesn't really need a very fast Internet connection a stupid and cheap repeater like [this](http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WA 850RE-Universal-Wireless-Indicator/dp/B00E98O7GC/) might suffice. Make sure that the signal on the "good" end of her house is actual usable.
You really have to think about the future use of the Internet and if it will be changing. I don't want to tell you to buy a repeater and in two months you introduce your grandma to Netflix and then you have to buy again.
edit: What is also a factor is the area you want to cover. If the house is rather big, it would be better you use a bridge and place the wifi access point somewhere in the center.
Honestly I don't care as much about the VPN. Would eat up some bandwidth as well. The only reason I wanted a VPN was because I'm not sure how to repeat the signal (i.e. extend) but have a different SSID AND password. Also, I'm not sure if not having a password to begin with on the main router would actually allow me to do this and provide me with some security.
I've read that running the WA850RE in AP bridge mode can achieve everything I need without the VPN. Any insight?
TP-Link N300 Wi-Fi Range Extender (TL-WA850RE) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E98O7GC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XuV9AbC0SP0FC
Your solutions are not necessarily out of budget but not what I want to spend if there is a cheaper option. More like a last resort kind of thing.
I also don't want to mess with DDWRT either. Stock firmware would be nice.
The ones connected with an ethernet cable are called access points. The fully wireless ones are generally called repeaters.
I've never had a wireless repeater work reliability for any length of time.
You are looking for something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E98O7GC
Maybe someone else has good experience with one they can recommend.
So you would probably want the EdgeRouter X - it's pretty basic, but for your use it should be more than enough. I have an EdgeRouter Lite, the two are similar, but the EdgeRouter X is PoE, a little slower, and has switched LAN ports (doesn't matter for your uses).
I don't know much about modems, but you want to get one that's basically "all modem", since your EdgeRouter is going to be doing all the routing for it. I went with this one but I'm sure there are better options.
You can then plug in the AP wherever you want on the internal network. Could be directly to the router, doesn't matter. You will need to use something called PoE - you can either pass that through the EdgeRouter X or use the included adapter directly in-line. It's not complicated, just take a sec to read the instructions. :) Basically you just need to make sure you plug the AP into the correct port, else you could damage things. It's pretty evident.
As far as which AP you buy... Well, it's up to you really. This would probably be fine, but they also have long-range and AC versions. I've tried the Long-Range version and it's not super impressive. Not tried the AC version yet because very few of my devices actually support it sadly.
Let me know if you have any questions!
I have these for my Production networks at all 4 of our church sites, and love them. Super easy to configure and manage, and they are rock steady.
I don't have any specific product recommendations, but for the last 7 months I've been using the method I proposed with a surplus router as AP and it has been rock solid. I'd guess any decent wireless router with WPA2-PSK (AES!) WiFi should be secure enough, these are dirt cheap & function as pretty good AP's. Preferably with two or three antennas so you can point them in XYZ directions to maximize the WiFi range around the house. Also make sure to disable DHCP on the router you are using as AP. Idk if all the routers support working in AP mode, so before buying look it up in the manual. I have an ethernet cable running from a LAN port on my primary router to a LAN port on my AP converted router. If you want something more fancy, then you are looking at stuff like Ubiquiti UniFi, but I think these need a PoE injector/switch to power them.
For just $60 you can get the b/g/n version.
One of these or a similar one from Ubiquiti will do the trick
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-AP-Unifi/dp/B00HXT8R2O
Just installed my first one for a client.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015PRO512/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This thing has more range than anything I have ever setup. Incredible.
I read these are nearly as good for a much smaller tag.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HXT8R2O/ref=psdc_1194486_t3_B015PRO512
If I didn't have a Areohive setup in my house I would pick up Unifi in a heartbeat.
You're on the right track; what you're wanting is an extra wirelesss access point. (not a router)
If you've already worked out how you can safely run CAT6 from the router in the home back to the apartment, then all you need is an access point to provide wireless connectivity on the other end. At ~225ft, you should be fine with a single cable run. I'd recommend looking at a Ubiquiti UniFi AP, you can pick any that meets your needs. (Wireless N/AC, long range or not, etc)
UniFi UAP (wireless N)
UniFi UAP-LR (wireless N, long range)
UniFi UAP-AC-LITE (wireless AC)
The AC versions are rather new and should be closer to $100-110 MSRP. If you wanted to go that route, wait until there's stock at B&H Photo.
I've heard good things about Ubiquiti's Unifi line, seems like there are a couple options that might suit your budget
I was under the impression that ubiquiti stuff usually started at $100 and went up.
Edit: And in Canuckland [here] (http://www.amazon.ca/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-Unifi-UAP/dp/B00HXT8R2O), they do. US starts at [$70] (http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-Unifi-UAP/dp/B00HXT8R2O).
Go exchange rate....
since you are just connecting two building two of these should work well.They are very strong
http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-Unifi-UAP/dp/B00HXT8R2O
I assume you'll use the tplink at the router still. In that case you can get one of the best access points for cheap. Ubiquiti Networks Enterprise AP Unifi (UAP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HXT8R2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_mFpywb5C90K5M
Are these any good? (I have no AC Devices)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HXT8R2O?keywords=UniFi%20AC&amp;qid=1458500635&amp;ref_=sr_1_8&amp;sr=8-8
do the work run ethernet for the pc's and for stuff that cant be hardwired, get a ubnt wifi ap like this one, I only use wifi for devices that dont have the ability for ethernet ports.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HXT8R2O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Wifi is never as stable as a ethernet connected device.
TP-Link sells an 8 port for $30. Not sure of its performance verse the Netgear. It's rated at 16gbps for switching so all 8 ports switching full duplex at the full 1gbps all at once.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K4DS5KU/
I use a https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K4DS5KU/ref=twister_B00PTUGAL4?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1 at home. Needs to be initially configured using a shitty windows tool, but otherwise just works.
You could install pfsense on the laptop and then use 2 vlans on the single ethernet port, one for LAN and one for WAN. However you would need a vlan capable switch. This is the cheapest that I've found https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Replacement-TL-SG108E/dp/B00K4DS5KU (I hate the name, calling it "unmanaged pro" implies it doesn't do vlans).
That switch does have a non-intuitive vlan interface though. If you end up getting it and need help, let me know and I can walk you through it.
That is **way** too complicated for most people, and completely unnecessary. You can get a cheap ($25-$35) TP-Link switch and just connect everything without doing all of that software magic. I removed the Gateway from my setup 8-10 months ago and anytime I've had to turn off/restart pfSense all I do is get the Gateway out of the closet, plug it in, wait till the light turns green, then plug in pfSense in its place.
&#x200B;
Get a TP-Link TL-SG108E switch (currently $33), set ports 1 and 2 to VLAN1 (and the rest to something else). Set your router to use the MAC address of your Gateway (get it from the Gateway broadband page). Plug the ONT into port 1, Gateway into port 2. Once green, unplug Gateway and plug in your router. Done.
&#x200B;
The entire process, even for someone that doesn't know much about networking, should take 5 minutes or less, and you can leave it running like that for as long as you need.
Also wanna add about the steam link, the ubiquiti has 3 different wireless networks per say, so you can isolate the steam to its own to keep the traffic down and keep the connection steady. But I don’t think you need to do that, but you can get TP-Link network switches to handle the wired connections link to ones I use
Also if you want you can always add a MoCA adapter, that’s assuming you already have coaxial cable ran threw the house. You would only need once since FiOS modem/router supports them, I’m in the process of getting one myself to hardwire my TV/fire stick since I will be cutting the cord completely as well :)
I just bought this tp-link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K4DS5KU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ydRzyb95W7HK9 8 port switch that has loop prevention on sale for $25. I don't really need it though, but it was cheaper than their standard of unmanaged 8 port switch so I got that instead.
What kind of router do you have (name and brand)?
Your router probably doesn't support PoE. In that case, you will need to use an PoE injector for the camera. If you need to support multiple PoE devices, get a PoE switch.
You want an 802.3af injector.
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Gigabit-Injector-Adapter-TL-PoE150S/dp/B001PS9E5I
I think you are a little confused. PoE = Power over Ethernet (which by definition requires an Ethernet cable). Maybe tell us what equipment (Brand / Model) you have and what you are trying to accomplish and then we can help you.
I can try and read between the lines and say that you have a PoE Access Point and want to use it in the garage as a repeater instead of an access point (since you can't get a ethernet cable to it). You could still power it by PoE with an PoE injector in the garage for power only. You will just have to buy an injector that uses the same PoE standard as your device.
They make an adapter that takes PoE and converts it to USB +5VDC to power the camera.
http://www.vidabox.com/kiosks/vidapower-power-adapter-vcharger-cat5-to-usb-poe-power-over-ethernet.html
Here's the PoE injector we use:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Gigabit-Injector-Adapter-TL-PoE150S/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473772431&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=poe+injector
No, you wouldn't.
All you would need is a laptop or desktop with a PoE Ethernet port.
Since that's highly unlikely, you could buy a PoE injector for under $20-
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I
I got you. I have a similar setup. So here’s what you need.
Wilson Electronics Wideband Directional Antenna 700-2700 MHz, 50 Ohm (314411) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J14YEHQ/
Buy two of these. Place on a pole as high as you can get it. Mount them 45° and -45°. That’s how LTE is polarized.
Example: https://www.solwise.co.uk/images/images3g/4g-ren6702709-lpda-5.png
Heavy Duty Weather Proof Multi... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4FSKZM
Put the M1 in this on the pole too.
Use this to send power up the Outdoor cat6 cable:
TP-LINK TL-PoE150S PoE Injector Adapter, IEEE 802.3af Compliant, up to 100 Meters (325 Feet) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PS9E5I/
And this to pull the power out of the Cat6
ANVISION Gigabit PoE Splitter,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PW9FJNT
Then convert the mini to USB C:
ARKTEK USB-C Adapter, USB Type C (Male) to Micro USB (Female) Syncing Data Transfer and Charging Converter for Chromebook Galaxy S10 Note 9, Pixel 3 and More (Black/White, Pack of 4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I0ZAJXO/
Ok.
That’ll get you where you want. Don’t get a booster or anything else. It’ll make your signal slower.
Put the whole thing on the pole because if you leave it inside you’ll get a lot of signal loss along those long cables.
———
Now the M1 is a 4x4 MIMO which claims it can get you gigabit speeds. But once you plug in the external antennas you’ll get 2x2 MIMO. the only way to solve this is a bit hacky.
You’ll need this:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183651187710
(This isn’t me but it’s the only guy I’ve seen selling these wires)
Then you’ll need two of these:
weBoost Outdoor Directional Yagi Antenna with N Female Connector 301111 for 700/800/900 MHz Band https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006H4FVM/
These will be you MAIN antennas. While the other covered ones will be your additional.
To explain. LTE towers send out 45° 800mhz, -45° 800mhz, 45° 2700 MHz, and -45° 2700 MHz You need an antenna for each. This will get you the fastest speed and best reliability. But this is hacky. I haven’t done this, YET. I’ve just planned it all out. I’m using a LB1211 with two covered yagis. I’ve gotten up to 70mbps with just that 2x2 setup (in a valley).
I plan on getting an M1 with 4 antennas soon, but right now my pole situation sucks. I need to figure out a better solution first. Then I’ll be comfortable spending that much more money. But just getting those two covered yagis and putting you M1 up until the pole, you’ll get a much better issue
The camera is connected to this PoE injector. The injector itself is connected to this repeater. It has a ethernet port that can be used to either connect the repeater via cable or to "translate the wifi to ethernet". The repeater is connected to my Unifi ap. Thats it.
I just don't wanted a normal wifi camera for security reasons. Also it wasn't possible for me to run a network cable to the camera itself. That's why I use this "complicated" method.
Edit: here is a really crappy picture I drawed on mobile :D
VDSL (aka extended reach ethernet) would be the most robust as you don't have midspan unit. I've had great luck with the startech units, these look like carbon copies of those units for $100 less--
https://www.amazon.com/Tupavco-Ethernet-Extender-Kit-Repeater-VDSL/dp/B01BOD8C9W/
Otherwise, PoE powered switch/repeater midspan sounds like the ticket. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Extender-Gigabit-IEEE802-3af-Security-Splitter/dp/B07FMNHYP8
And an injector:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-Compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I
Having something that needs an outlet to plug into halfway just feels half baked. 398 feet I'd roll the dice on forcing 10/100 first to see if it works. I've had gigabit work over longer.
> Turns out this beast does not have poe
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Injector-TL-PoE150S/dp/B001PS9E5I
Ubiquiti EdgeRouter POE
or any OpenWrt-compatible router and a couple of POE Injectors
Hello breathinggames,
Thank you for the message. The TP-Link TL-WR940N is a wireless router. This isn't a modem. You will still need a modem to connect to your DSL service. If you need a wireless router for a wireless network at your home this would work fine to connect to a modem.
If you want more information on this device here is a Amazon.ca page with more information to review: https://www.amazon.ca/TP-LINK-TL-WR940N-Wireless-External-Antennas/dp/B003Y5RYNY
With a little more information I will be able to assist you with this further. What modem are you currently using for your connection?? Make/model??
If there are further questions, please let us know.
regards,
Oh shoot, I just realized you mentioned the router, not the modem. My mistake.
No, Time Warner doesn't care about your router, only your modem. Feel free to buy any old router. I'd recommend a TP-LINK N450 (https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wireless-Router-450Mbps-TL-WR940N/dp/B003Y5RYNY) as it is more than enough for your speeds. You could also get the N300 as well for slightly cheaper but still plenty of speed.
When I had issues connecting to Xbox live in the past, it had to do with my router. I recommend connecting directly to your modem with an ethernet cable to see if you can connect that way. If that works, then it's the router.
Do a google search on forwarding your ports in your router settings.
If you haven't purchased a new router in a while, you might want to get a new one anyway. I recommend this one:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Router-450Mbps-TL-WR940N/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486574691&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=router
So I would recommend https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Router-450Mbps-TL-WR940N/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ which gives you expandability in the future for wireless devices while staying in your budget, if you really need the cheapest possible wired only router, https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Broadband-Recognizing-Protection-TW100-S4W1CA/dp/B00006I5XC/ fits the bill, but again I highly recommend going with the first one I posted.
Ditch that shit. Buy a DOCSIS 3.0 modem that is compatible with your ISP and get your own router. What ISP are you using? Just because you're on a contract, does not mean you need to use their hardware. You can also just get your own separate router ($30 to $200), call your ISP and tell them "I want my modem to be put into bridge mode" and that will make the modem do only modem things while you can handle all the ports stuff and other configurables on your own.
Modems:
https://www.amazon.com/Arris-SURFboard-Providers-Excluding-Refurbished/dp/B00UPLKF4A/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485917433&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=cable+modem
https://www.amazon.com/Zoom-5345-Certified-Spectrum-Providers/dp/B013C4L6OE/ref=sr_1_15?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485917433&amp;sr=1-15&amp;keywords=cable+modem
Routers:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Router-450Mbps-TL-WR940N/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485917553&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=router
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Wireless-Archer-C1200/dp/B01IUDUJE0/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485917553&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=router
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wi-Fi-Gigabit-Router-WNDR4300/dp/B008HO9DK4/ref=sr_1_13?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485917553&amp;sr=1-13&amp;keywords=router
Seems silly to me. The rpi3 has a BCM43438 with a single band, 2.4GHz 802.11b/g/n... You can grab a $20 AP to load ddwrt on that should meet those specs, use less power and have better antennas.
or splurge for like $30 and get something like this :https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Router-450Mbps-TL-WR940N/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493054975&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ddwrt
support 5GHz, which is totally worth it.
Its not worth trying to fix the Telus one. It will work for a few days then fail again. Go to staples or bestbuy or amazon and pick up pretty much any dlink/asus router 30$ and over. You'll have to set it up though one of the Lan/Wan ports on your actiontech but itll give you alot less troubles than the actiontech one. The 5GHz that extender that someone mentioned does help but still liable for breaking every few weeks.
I got my brother this router a while back and he hasn't had any issues with it. Around the same amount of devices as you.
So I just upgraded myself and I'm on Xfinity (Comcast) also. Check out the comcast Modem combatiblity list here. I first got a refurbished Arris SB6121 and long story short I nor Comcast could get the Modem to activate. Then after doing some research I picked up the Netgear CM400 New for $60 and its been working great thus far. Since I only need 802.11n wifi capability I decided to get a TP-LINK N450 for $30. But if you want a bunch of bells an whistles or 802.11ac its gonna cost you. Everything I purchased seems to work great, the new router reaches all the way to my upstairs bedroom chromecast, I highly recomend any TP-Link wifi router they have all worked great in the past. Hope I helped.
I got this one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Y5RYNY
about 6 months ago. It's currently $20 and it solved all of my routing problems.
TP Link seems to work pretty good for perking with multiple devices.
Hey I was just in a similar situation a few days ago. I bought a wireless router and set up my own network using the wifi extender that was already in my room and connected the bridge to the router. Make sure if you do this you look up how to hide your network from other people or someone in the building may shut you down.
Here's the router I used ($30):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003Y5RYNY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503079458&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=tp+link+wireless+router&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41Eh6WVWwdL&amp;ref=plSrch
Hope it helps!
Edit: wanted to add that if you set this up correctly then you should have your own network that has a working internet connection. Even though I'm on this private network on my phone I can still stay connected to the Internet.
Using this router and having a ~130mbps wired connection I get about 60mbps down and i'm about ~15-20 ft away through a wall.
I have a -20 service discount, and also I pay for my own modem. There should be no reason why you are paying for a modem.
The modem I bought cost $75 off of amazon (it's now $60.00) and can be found HERE.
In a little over 10 months you will have paid for that and then you are just saving money at that point. Plus Grande supports the same modem as well.
Something like this : http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SBG6580-Docsis-Router/dp/B0040IUI46?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=ARRIS%20Surfboard&amp;qid=1463430394&amp;ref_=sr_1_5&amp;sr=8-5
is probably the cheapest I would recommend going. That's what I have setup at my dad's place, it's an all-in-one, so you wouldn't need to buy a separate router.
You could also maybe get the SB6121 along with something like this: http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-WNR3500L-Open-Source-WNR3500Lv2-Processor/dp/B002RYYZZS/ref=sr_1_22?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463430791&amp;sr=1-22&amp;keywords=Netgear
that would be very slightly cheaper I think? But ultimately probably about the same or worse performance wise.
I don't usually like all-in-ones but the motorola surboard modems are the best, so I'd probably get something like this
http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SURFboard-Gateway-SBG6580-Wireless/dp/B0040IUI46/
which is basically the surfboard modem with a router built in.
This netgear wouldn't be bad either.
http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-DOCSIS-Cable-Modem-Router/dp/B00IF0JAYE/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406839994&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=TG852G
If you plan on going with a triple play type service with phone in the future, you'll want something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Arris-TG862G-Residential-Gateway-802-11n/dp/B008KRLZCW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406840138&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=router+voice
but the cost is going to be higher.
If you want to save some money and only have one device your best bet is to go with something like this if you use wired it will be comparable to using just the Motorola Surfboard SB6141(which my main PC is and it works fantastic!). The wifi will be the cheaper component of this device and provide about the same service as the modem/router combo they rent to you.
The reason you'd want a separate device for your wifi is if you stream video off the hard drive of one computer to your house to the TV or another computer. If you don't really do that and just use it to browse or stream video from the internet, you'll be fine with the combo sets.
Purchase any standard cable modem. If you want the same capability as what you currently have, make sure it has wifi built in as well.
Cable Modem only
Cable Modem with wifi built in.
The two I listed are just examples, you can shop around and find other brands for different prices. Just make sure on the specifications it says it's "DOCSIS 3.0" or something like that and it'll be compatible with Comcast.
DO NOT CALL COMCAST RIGHT AWAY! Only do that as a last resort since it's a pain. In most cases you can activate the new modem without calling. Take it home, disconnect your old modem and connect the new one to the cable line and hook it up to your computer. Plug it in and give it 10 mins to connect to Comcast. Open a web browser and the Comcast activation screen should come up. In put your account info, click activate and give it a good 30 mins to complete. Once you have working internet, return your old modem to the Comcast store (GO IN PERSON AND HAND IT TO A PERSON) and make sure you get a receipt.
If you have trouble activated and have to call, before calling take down the Serial Number and the Cable Mac Address on the bottom of the modem. You're gonna need to give that info to the rep so they can add it to your account.
Either way, you won't have to pay that stupid rental fee any more and you'll probably have better performance with your own modem.
>How does one go about buying their own modem and setting it up?
You can buy them anywhere. This one on Amazon is a standard and works with most providers.
>What do I need to do in order to make sure my internet gets set up correctly and all that if I'm not using that companies modem?
First, make sure you are buying a modem that will work on their network. If you Google your Provider's name+approved modem list you'll probably find it. For example, here is Comcast's
From there, setting it up varies from provider to provider, but it's usually pretty easy. Just plug in your new modem, go to any computer connected to the Internet, and open a web browser. This should launch a registration page that confirms your account and authorizes the modem.
One thing to look out for is if you have a combined modem and wifi hotspot. If you do, it makes things a little more complicated as you'll need to buy something like this.
>Lastly, how will buying my own modem benefit my internet connection as opposed to the one my ISP gives me?
That depends. If you have an old modem, getting a new one may improve speed because you're going from one standard to another. Otherwise it won't make a difference in speed, you'll just be saving the cost of leasing a modem from your provider.
This one will work. It sounds like you have a modem/router combo. In that case you'll either need to get a separate router or this
My ISP uses these for our modem rental, they work decently
http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SURFboard-SBG6580-Packaging-570763-006-00/dp/B0040IUI46
Oh, sorry! I didn't make that clear. It's a modem and router all in one package. They said they owned the modem. You can find the item here:
http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SURFboard-SBG6580-Packaging-570763-006-00/dp/B0040IUI46
They refunded me today after speaking with 5 people about the issue.
I wouldn't overlook the modem. If you spend $100 on a new router, and it's the modem at fault, you'll have to spend another $100 on a new model. And if you want to replace both, my advice is to NOT get a gateway (modem+router), the quality on the newer models is utter garbage (especially Motorola sb6580:http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SURFboard-Gateway-SBG6580-Wireless/dp/B0040IUI46 , which is the only brand of modem that the sell at my local Best Buy).
They gave me new lines already, and I'm using a https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SBG6580-DOCSIS-2-4Ghz/dp/B0040IUI46
You could try something like this.
Separate modem and router are definitely better, though.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040IUI46/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
This should work just fine for you but you could also get This as an alternative.
Yes, while most every motherboad has wired networking, the majority of motherboards don't have built in wifi.
You can either get a USB wireless network adapter or a PCI/PCIe one. If you stick with the GA-78LMT-USB3 you'll probably want an external one as the PCIe 1x slot will be covered by the video card and the conventional PCI slot will be right up on it.
There are a wide range of USB WiFi adapters from generic ones under $10 to some very expensive ones. Performance doesn't necessarily correlate with price. If you walk into a store like WalMart you can expect to pay $20 for their least expensive ones.
Most USB WiFi adapters are are in the form of small USB thumb drives. Sometimes it's worth it to buy a larger adapter with a more substantial antenna though.
As a side note, the GA-78LMT-USB3 is a good motherboard but if you planned on overclocking your 8 core, you may want to consider some of the higher end boards. It also lacks SATA III so you won't get the top performance out of an SSD if you add one. It's still a solid board and I've used it in a number of builds.
How fast is your internet? If no more than 150Mb/s, i'll suggest the TL-WN722N. Which i use on my gaming desktop PC. I've never had any problems connecting to my wifi. Also, It's cheaper than the one you have listed, only 13.35USD or 10.52 in your foreign money. But fear not, if your internet speed is indeed faster than 150Mb/s, you could always go with it's bigger brother the TL-WN822N. Which can push out 300Mb/s and costs 18.80USD or 14.66€
This Might work well instead of running wires.
I personally have this that I use and it works great through 4 walls (router is in a closet) and across a rather large sized house.
pretty good but get a different network adapter and id personally recommended these changes
Network adapter: http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-WN822N-300MBPS-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419014423&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=wifi+adapter
PSU :http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-Builder-Series-Modular-Certified/dp/B00ALYOTTI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419014385&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=PSU
if you play rome 2 or other strategy sims that proc isnt the greatest, the gpu will outshine the cpu in certain games giving huge fps spikes from like 30 one moment to 60 the next
of course this is only select few games anything else is flawless bf4,skyrim etc
I recently (Like a week ago) purchased this: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN822N-Wireless-External-Antennas/dp/B00416Q5KI
Has worked fantastically so far getting a full 5 bars instead of the sketchy 2-3 I was getting with my old one.
Wifi adapter could be like https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Adapter-Support-TL-WN822N/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_36?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478394701&amp;sr=8-36&amp;keywords=usb+wifi
Monitor, maybe http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236174&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3938566&amp;SID=
I have tried lots of cards and have never found one I have been happy with. It's either the hardware is weak or the drivers are terrible.
The only wireless solution I've found that has worked well for me is this little guy right here. Drivers are simple and solid, it's high gain so it picks up very weak signal (ours picks up a router that is behind two cinder block walls), and it just works.
I've used something like this for a while and I love it.
You could also buy powerline ethernet adapters, but your house needs decent wiring for those to work.
How far is this machine from the wireless router? If the distance isn't too far you can get away with using a USB wifi adapter.
Here is a good example TP-LINK TL-WN722N
This is the best WiFi dongle you are ever going to have. I have used it in extremely congested WiFi traffic scenarios and this bad boy works amazingly. Only downside, it does not have 5ghz but I have never felt the need to switch because it works so well. Also it's portable unlike a lot of solutions people are posting requiring plugging it into the mother board. And it doesn't hurt that it is very reasonably priced.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00416Q5KI/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481466990&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=tp+link+wifi+adapter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31bm1O6%2B7GL&amp;ref=plSrch
It's not a bad investment to have a portable wireless device around that is reliable with Linux for problems like this. It would give you a temporary workaround while you install the needed updates. Plus, they're fairly cheap and you can use them anywhere to install Linux on other problem devices. Something that uses the ath9k driver is almost always a solid bet.
I have one of these, and it is really fast: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00416Q5KI/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have had that exact wireless card in a netbook I used to own. I have gotten brcmsmac to work before in Gentoo and other distros with it, but it was always unreliable. The wl driver works MUCH BETTER with this particular wireless device.
I found a good description of what might help you in this thread. http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=1889170&amp;p=11502676#post11502676
Blacklisting all the conflicting modules should help.
You can use any router as far as I know. I've never used a WD router before so I have no clue how good that actually is. The ones I have used on LUS fiber are:
Yeah I'll second TWC here, they're certainly the lesser of two evils in this case until Google blesses us with fiber. I will say though, if you plan on getting one of their better plans (30Mbps+), buy your own modem and router if you can afford it. Note, for the modem I linked, only buy the white one, the black one is a previously owned, repackaged one that was only available to ISPs and cannot be updated, and for the router, ASUS has some cheaper models that are still very good like this one (still not super cheap, but good) or this one if you want to go really cheap.
With my own equipment, I get the speeds I paid for (sometimes even faster) at all hours of the day with no outages, but prior to that when I was renting the stuff from them, my speeds were almost always lower and I had to reset the thing 3+ times a day.
I bought this recently, it has two channels one at 2.5 GHz and one at 5 GHz you could reserve the 2.5 one for your self and let the others share the faster 5 one or vise versa.
FYI: When you get the 2nd router, either put the first one in bridge mode so it just acts as a modem or make sure you look up how to put the 2nd one in access point mode and turn off WiFi on the main one. I would suggest the 1st method so your (hopefully) more reliable 2nd router does the heavy lifting.
Asus RT-N56U is easily the best router I've ever had/seen.
Here are exact models he's referring to
Modem
Motorola SurfBoard SB6141
Wireless Router
ASUS RT-N66U Dual-Band Wireless-N900
OR
ASUS Dual-Band Wireless-N 600 Router (RT-N56U)
I would get the Netgear if you were forced between those two options, but my personal recommendation would actually be this Asus N56U at the same price point as the Netgear.
I use this guy:
ASUS® RT-N56U Dual-Band Wireless-N Router
http://www.amazon.ca/ASUS-RT-N56U-Diamond-Dual-Band-Wireless-N/dp/B0049YQVHE
It even has remote torrent, external HDD, and Samba support.
The Asus N56 has been bulletproof for me, provided you stay away from their awful drivers. There's a programmer who does custom versions that are excellent.
I'm currently running 2 consoles, my receiver, 3 laptops, 2 Chromecasts and a Roku between my girlfriend and I on WiFi, and it's been great.
$85 on Amazon
ASUS Dual-Band Wireless-N 600 Router (RT-N56U) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049YQVHE/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_mRaYub0CW8068
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049YQVHE/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_mRaYub0CW8068
My guess is that comcast supported means they will help if you call with an issue. It doesn't mean that they won't work. I would think that most routers have online help or support lines you can call if you have an issue.
I have heard good things about ASUS routers, both in build quality and features. The ASUS RT-N56U is a particular favorite but is a little more than the two you were looking at.
I think the ASUS N-300 (RT-N12b) has been replaced by the ASUS RT-n13u. That doesn't mean it is bad, just there are probably more features out there it is missing.
I just got an Asus RT-n56u It has a ton of features for a great price. I like that you can plug your printer and a hd into it.
So far it has been a great router, been supporting 20+ devices without a single hiccup yet.
.02
Wow, now i'm interested. If i got this and the one of AC AP lite/LR/Pro, would it be better than what i have now? I currently have the Asus RT-n56u
https://www.amazon.com/Asus-Dual-Band-Wireless-N600-Gigabit-RT-N56U/dp/B0049YQVHE
I have heard nothing but good things about this router and I (and several other people I know) have this one and I haven't had any issues with it. Definitely upgrade the firmware though if you get the second one, the new interface is much better.
I've been using ASUS RT-N56U and been happy with it.
They also have a newer model ASUS RT-N66U
http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-N-Router-RT-N56U/dp/B0049YQVHE/ref=pd_sim_e_5?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0ES1S6MQ7CQ1Y1Q7E8EA
Works great.
Have you looked into troubleshooting it?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049YQVHE
This is the router I use. I have the gigabit package from CondoInternet. My ethernet line speed is usually around 800mb/s (not gigabit, but it seems difficult to get gigabit speed from a single connection; multiple, simultaneous downloads usually see gigabit). I think through my wifi, I usually see 100-150mbit, at least on my phone. It might be higher on laptops, might not be. Not sure. Officially, the router supports 300mbit wifi, but that's in perfect conditions.
Edit: Also, have you messed around with changing the frequency of broadcast/channel/etc? I was initially only seeing 30mbit or so when I set up my router, but changing the channel and frequency bumped me up to the low-to-mid 100mbit range.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_fiRJybG76T80T
Something like this might do the trick:
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468418411&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=wi-fi+to+ethernet+adapter
It allows you to connect a device that only has an ethernet port to WiFi. Then you can join your Hue bridge to the campus wifi and your other devices on the campus wifi should be able to access it.
Of course, nothing is guaranteed, but Amazon has a fairly generous return policy so you shouldn't be screwed if it doesn't work.
Oh man, that's definitely not the best way to go but I do know how to do it. In fact, I can't even guarantee it will because I've technically never tried it this way (although once I did something similar to make Chromecast work in a hotel.) First, you have to realize that just plugging into that adapter isn't going to work because it's configured to be looking for an IP address instead of assigning one. So, the first thing you need to go is Google "Internet connection sharing for Windows 10." Look at the instructions for turning your computer into a hotspot because that's what you're doing. The computer is essentially turning itself into a router. Wifi adapter gets an IP address and acts as a gateway. It's really not that complicated but you do have to configure it properly. You could also take an old router and flash it with DD-WRT and turn it into a wireless bridge. Otherwise, the computer has to be on 24/7 with a connection. I'll be around if you have questions.
*if you aren't networking savvy, you could save a lot of time buying a cheap wireless network bridge instead of making one. It looks like they range for 20 to 100 bucks on Amazon. The bridge connects to Wifi and "bridges" that connection to an Ethernet port. Here's an example -https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-Smart-Dual-Band-Extender-EW-7438AC/dp/B015AMYCMO/ref=sr_1_17?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494275684&amp;sr=1-17&amp;keywords=Wireless+bridge
Or one of these - https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494277810&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ethernet+to+wifi+adapter
Dead link.
Here's something similar on Amazon.
You seek a a Wireless to Ethernet bridge.
Something like:
http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1413599693&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=Wireless+Ethernet+bridge
That switch doesn't appear to support VLANs.
This one does, and it's cheaper -> http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SG108E-8-Port-Gigabit-Tag-Based/dp/B00K4DS5KU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453166594&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=tp-link+sg108e
It has an easy to use config tool that should make your life easier. http://www.tp-link.com/en/faq-788.html
If you're using the FIOS router as a Wifi router, then you may need another wifi router. Depends on how you set it up. I'd suggest getting a switch that supports VLANs, and then experimenting with setting it up. You may find that you don't need another wifi router.
If you want a solution that will work with any router, you can read through this thread over at DSL reports.
The summary is to put a smart switch that allows vlan tagging between your ONT and router with the proper tagging.
Here's a switch for $29.99 that someone in that thread mentions they got it to work. The switch the OP mentions is now $54.99 on amazon. You might be able to find one cheaper - especially try to get a smaller one since you really only will be using 2 ports on it.
tp-link
>Oh I would make a handful of Untangle Firewalls. While I don't expect them to be fast anyway, usb to ethernet would probably not be reliable.
Oh, definitely. That would be slow as shit. I didn't understand what you were going for.
PS: I've never seen this firewall software before. I might try this instead of tomato. Thanks :)
>Basically I would make these boxes with Untangle then go put them in at relatives homes. Then I wouldn't have to worry about them downloading bullshit and expecting me to fix it.
As an alternative to a computer with multiple Ethernet ports, you could try setting up two vlans and getting a switch with vlan support, like this one. The idea is that the firewall would connect to both vlans over a single cable, and pass traffic between the two. The downside is that it's a lot more complicated, and Untangle might not play nice with it.
get a network switch like this
Since your using psfense router it's essy. Been working great for me for a couple years now.
You can bypass the AT&T gateway completely. Been working great for me for a couple months.
You'll need this also TP-Link 8 Port switch.On the TpLink you have to use 802.1Q tagging. I left 3 default for ont, gateway and pfsense. then tagged the others to vlan 3.
read all the stuff here http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r29903721-AT-T-Residential-Gateway-Bypass-True-bridge-mode
> ow bad your current wireless TP-Link is
Daaaamn dude, how do I say this... THANK YOU this was very informative and complete like really thanks for taking the time.
I guess I'll be looking in betweek the HP 1810 and the Netgear although I had an eye on the managed ones, like the TP Link TL-SG108E
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K4DS5KU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
You mention noise, it is an issue, I'll probably have the switch just behind my tv, there are no many places to hide it in here.
About the switch unmanaged and managed I wanted to tinker with it, always wanted to learn a bit more of networking.
As for the WiFi it's ok, but just ok. I live in an apartment and is crowded AF with wifi signals, I check to see the congestion every few months to change the channel and it helps a bit, but I would like to use 5Ghz instead.
Again thanks for the advice and the links I'll be taking a look, thank you!
If you need just simple features (vlans, port mirror, etc) hard to beat $30 http://amzn.com/B00K4DS5KU
I think he means Ethernet over power. Here's a link. TP-LINK AV1200 Powerline Adapter, Gigabit w/ Power Outlet Pass-through, Up to 1200Mbps (TL-PA8010P KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y3QPG1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WsFzxbJ0HVGBS
New(er) powerline adapters have passthroughs, this eliminates your "free" plug situation.
Oh and the "ethernet ports" on your power strips are likely phone lines (yes they've been around forever lol).
EDIT: sample here
CPU fan: pick one of the 220W compatible models from the TDP page like NH-D14/15. When installing the cpu cooler, don't add the fans (0dB!). The heatsink is enough to cool a 95W+ cpu and you can even overclock a little. ALT. solution (if your mobo allows it): place 1 fan and configure it to turn itself off when it's under a certain temperature, like 60ºC.
GTX970: the ASUS STRIX has a 0dB mode when idle. The fans only start when the card needs to be cooled. The Gigabyte Windforce is the quietest under load. It also has a "0db mode" but it's not covered by the warranty.
Silent Base 800: remove the case fan in the middle front, leave the one in the bottom front. If you want to replace the 2 remaining case fans (bottom front and upper rear), buy two Noctua NF-S12B redux 700(6.8 dbA) or NF-S12A ULN(6.7 - 8.6 dbA). Don't buy the be-quiet pure wings. Don't buy more case fans. If the case contains more fans I didn't see, remove them.
Power supply: you could either buy a fanless Seasonic 520W 80+ Platinum or a model with a zero rpm fan mode like the Corsair RM650 or RM750.
If the computer case doesn't already have it, electronic components emit a high pitch noise than can be reduced by adding accoustic foam.
There are also antivibration screws for the case fans, but I think those are included with the Noctua fans, mine were.
Wireless card: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac. Not about silence, just a better card. Consider powerline networking if possible.
If at one point you need much more storage space but SSDs are not affordable, noise can be a problem with HDDs. For this, place each HDD inside a HDD silencer. There are cheaper models, but you get what you pay for. Also, I'm assuming, you'll place a 2TB or 4TB HDD inside it. HDD price + silencer is still much cheaper than 2TB or 4TB of SSD storage.
Another problem with HDDs is interference. If you hear it, using a dedicated sound card may suppress it.
Have you considered using a pair of Powerline adaptors?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Y3QPG1A/
I've used these in the past and they work really well
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y3QPG1A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is what I use, the NooElec Ham it Up upconverter. Image from before assembled. Works great, I listen to HF every night.
http://imgur.com/a/WIIap
Apparently, though, this might be another option, apparently does HF without an up converter (though I'm dubious for some reason):
https://www.amazon.com/RTL-SDR-Blog-RTL2832U-Software-Defined/dp/B0129EBDS2/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484715796&amp;sr=8-27-spons&amp;keywords=nooelec&amp;psc=1
800mhz is usually trunked digital radio encoded using P25. Looking at the radio reference page for your county confirms that:
Roanoke City / Roanoke County (Project 25)
Virginia Statewide Agencies Radio System (STARS)
If you have time to tinker you can pull in and decode P25 with an RTL dongle, this will save you a couple hundred dollars. Depending on your technical ability this route will take anywhere from 6-40 hours of work to get to the point where you're listening to those frequencies.
OP25 is a great piece of software and the error correction code it has is amazing. You could probably pull in an intelligible signal using a coat hanger for an antenna. The only downside is that it can be rather difficult to get setup and decoding.
There's another project that I've used which is a lot easier to get running but more difficult to configure is SdrTrunk. This project will run in Windows, so you won't need to try to get it running in a VM or install linux on a machine to get it running; But I find the interface to be confusing and lacking features that OP25 has, like Skip and Lockout for channels that are overly chatty (automated fire calls, ambulance dispatch, etc.)
Hopefully this is enough to get you started, If you need clarity or more information just post.
Wait, so this one is enough for L Band HRPT and HRIT?
And for Op, if you live in the right place where you can recieve goes, you could look into it, but it is a big step up in complexity from APT.
Correct. You don't even need to know which frequency they're tuned in on specifically, you could look at the whole spectrum using a Software Defined Radio like an rtl-sdr or bladerf with an upconverter and then spot them in a waterfall like SDRTrunk, SDRTouch, HD-SDR, SDRSharp, etc etc.
Yup, you got it. There is also an option to just by the dongle if you don't need the antennas too.
edit: https://www.amazon.com/RTL-SDR-Blog-RTL2832U-Software-Defined/dp/B0129EBDS2/
Try this one
I have this SDR for my pi. It's only $20. You may also consider decoding ADS-B transmissions from aircrafts to have your pi show a radar-esque display.
OS is Raspian; Documentation can be found all over the place for installing.
Software used for tracking trunks in the Baltimore Co MD, Carroll Co MD, York PA area is called OP25
Method of configuration that I used can be found here (Big shout out to Johns tech blog) This guide is amazing.
https://www.hagensieker.com/wordpress/2018/07/17/op25-for-dummies/
8 Inch monitor can be found here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FP2F9XY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The antenna used can be found here in which I retrofitted with a camera tripod
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075QCJM6S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
rtl-sdr dongle used can be found here
https://www.amazon.com/RTL-SDR-Blog-RTL2832U-Software-Defined/dp/B0129EBDS2/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3RE7FZK09J0QX&keywords=rtl-sdr.com&qid=1558445253&s=electronics&sprefix=rtl-sdr%2Celectronics%2C124&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1
&#x200B;
The case that I am using for this Raspberry Pi B+ can be found here
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G1LMFRG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The speaker that I wound up using and not in this pic is an Anker Soundcore boost, but I also use headphones when I take this to the office.
All radio system-specific information can be found at radioreference.com.
Getting the true control channel can be challenging sometimes as the db on radio reference is not always correct, at least for my area. Also, trial an error I was able to determine that the offset for my dongles is -1.
Ham radio associations like the ARRL probably have the best repository for beginners. A lot of the ham exam study guides and videos have good information for those wanting to learn about RF. I picked up some amateur radio books from the 60s at a local library book sale and they proved to be quite valuable guides.
Also, and I can't recommend this enough, pick up an RTL-SDR. For less than $30 and the cost of a diy antenna you can listen to literally anything from the LF to UHF range. Satellites? Old fucks on 2m? Air traffic? Garage door openers? ADS-B? You name it, SDR can do it.
This a good idea, if you have something creating a lot of nose. This should help you identify it.
This will also let you know if your radio is dead and is need of repair.
Here is a link to a srd dongle
RTL-SDR Blog R820T2 RTL2832U 1PPM TCXO SMA Software Defined Radio (Dongle Only) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0129EBDS2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2AxUDb29Y3JDC
I found the frequencies by scanning on the radio. It cycles through all the frequencies and stops whenever it finds something. You can set the steps that it scans by. Use CHIRP to set it up more easily, but I did it through the radio menu the first time.
RTL-SDR is a little receiver that you connect to your computer. It basically receives everything at the same time and gives you a visual representation of everything that comes in. You can record with it and decode some stuff that your baofeng cannot.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0129EBDS2
Try this Avantree Leaf Class 1 Long Range USB Bluetooth Audio Transmitter Adapter for PC Laptop Mac PS4 Nintendo Switch, Wireless Audio Dongle for Headphones Speakers Only, Plug and Play, aptX Low Latency https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G3J1I5M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pcLzDbJ635DRD
Because https://np.reddit.com/r/airpods/comments/7buqt9/30_dongle_from_amazon_lets_airpods_connect_to_ps4/
There some long range transmitters you can try, I've seen this one mentioned before, but I have not personally used it.
Avantree aptX LONG RANGE Bluetooth 4.1 Adapter
https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Driver-Free-Wireless-Transmitter/dp/B01G3J1I5M
I found this on amazon works perfect!
Avantree aptX Low Latency LONG RANGE Bluetooth 4.1 Adapter for PC, Driver-Free Wireless USB Audio Dongle Transmitter for PS4 Windows 10 7 Linux Mac, M
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G3J1I5M?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Step 1 : HARDWARE SET UP
plug the usb dongle into the suppied usb cord and connect both to your Ps4 it will recognize in settings under devices> audio devices > under & input and output both as “usb headset (avantree leaf)”
Step 2: PAIRING APPLE AIRPODS
“PAIR” the Avantree dongle to APPLE AIR PODS by first Placing the dongle in “PAIR MODE” by holding the button on the dongle for 2 seconds. Next on your (MAKE SURE APPLE AIRPODS ARE IN THE CASE AND THE LID IS OPEN) press the button on the back of the CASE and hold it until its in “pair mode” while close proximity to the dongle and it should connect automatically.
You will know its connected when the light inside the AIRPOD CASE Turns ORANGE AND the Light on the AVANTREE DONGLE pulsates BLUE.
note DO NOT Use the playstation bluEtooth set up to find AIRPODS
*if you have any issues try to make sure you dont have any other audio devices like Bluetooth speakers in discovery mode while pairing
Step 3: TESTING AUDIO
REMOVE AIRPODS FROM CASE And PLACE THEM IN YOUR EARS. AIRPODS will make a CHIME SOUND in both ears to let you know its they are connected to test the sound ON YOUR PLAYTION 4 controller hold the PS BUTTON FOR THE QUICK MENU Under SOUND DEVICES scroll down to “OUTPUT TO HEAD” and switch it to “ALL AUDIO (this is just to test you DO NOT HAVE TO STAY IN THIS MODE)” if you can hear system Sounds and game sounds you are all set up!
Step 4: VOICE CHAT
to voice chat in a party or in game you need to enable “TALK MODE” on the AVANTREE dongleDOUBLE CLICK the button on the side. The light on the dongle should now STAY SOLID WHITE! Doing this will enable the MICROPHONE on the APPLE AIRPODS for voice chatting.
To MUTE voice just DOUBLE TAP APPLE AIRPOD while in your ears (note doing this takes AVANTREE dongle out of “TALK MODE” DOUBLE TAP the button to enable the microphone agin)
Pressing the side button on the Avantree dongle ONCE .reconnects AIRPODS if disconnected**
Any questions feel free to ask em.
I have a solution for this that’s worked on my PS4. It’s called the
Avantree Leaf. You just plug it in, pair and it works every time. I’ve also used this on PC, troublesome phone (using and OTG cable) android Tv boxes when I want to watch late at night and don’t want to wake the girlfriend. I’m not looking to Karma whore here, but can this be upvoted just so OP and others can see it and maybe look into using one? Sony is an asshole for doing this, and having to pay money for a workaround sucks, but it does work.
Avantree Leaf Long Range USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G3J1I5M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Avantree Leaf
I have this https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Nintendo-Headphones/dp/B01G3J1I5M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541698336&sr=8-3&keywords=avantree+leaf+bluetooth+adapter . And it works perfectly with my Pulse 3 and Bose Headphones. You might want to try this.
I’m currently using my AirPods on my PS4 and it’s pretty great. You just need this dongle Avantree Leaf Long Range USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G3J1I5M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
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Not natively. You can either 3.5 it into the controller, or look into a Bluetooth dongle like this: https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Nintendo-Headphones/dp/B01G3J1I5M/ref=sr_1_8?s=videogames&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540967773&amp;sr=1-8
It's all a bit of a headache. Whether it's to promote their Gold's and Platinum's (admittedly good headsets), issues with Bluetooth latency or a security concern, Sony sure did fuck up.
Your hardware has to support aptx, most don't. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G3J1I5M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 I use this, works great.
I managed to use my Airpods with my PS4, using this adapter which I just received: https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B01G3J1I5M
The adapter allows to switch between music (Apt-X LL codec they say) and conversation (worse quality but the micro works)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G3J1I5M
I use this dongle on my PC for my MDR-1000x, the dongle supports AptX Low Latency.
My MDR-1000x only supports AptX HD, but when watching videos I can hardly notice any delay.
Here you go!
My suggestion would be to install Home Assistant on one of the Raspberry Pis and buy one of the ZWave/Zigbee combo dongles, so you can connect your existing ZWave door sensors: https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-CECOMINOD016164-HUSBZB-1-USB-Hub/dp/B01GJ826F8/
Notifications? Home Assistant has plenty of ways to do that: https://www.home-assistant.io/components/#notifications
You don't say what kind of smart switches & dimmers you have, but if they're ZWave/Zigbee, that's nice & easy. If they're cheap wifi things, you're going to have to see if there's a component for them, or if you can flash Tasmota on them.
Use the computer for the cameras, since they'll require more power and it's a good idea to separate services (you don't want your lights, camera & media all being unavailable if the PSU on the computer goes out).
My personal recommendation for the cameras is Blue Iris, even though it's a paid program & only runs on Windows. Despite those "drawbacks", it's the most full-featured & easiest to use consumer NVR available; you want to turn cameras on/off/record based on input from Home Assistant? not a problem! You want to use motion alerts from Blue Iris to trigger automations in Home Assistant? Not a problem! You want to use the camera feed for facial recognition or reading license plates? It can do that, too!
For music control, I'm a big fan of Chromecast Audios (RIP) and Google Homes, since you can create speaker groups (All Speakers, Inside Speakers, Outside Speakers, etc.) and then cast to them from any program or app that supports it. I've found that the Google Home Mini is plenty loud enough in small rooms like bathrooms & closets, and the normal Google Home has pretty decent sound for it's size. There's also the Google Home Max, if you have a large area to cover.
You can also (somewhat) control Google Homes from Home Assistant, at least the point of being able to play/pause & adjust the volume: https://webworxshop.com/quick-project-lovelace-multi-room-audio-controller/?pk_campaign=reddit-hass
You could also install Linux on the computer, install Docker & Hass.io and use something like ZoneMinder or Blue Cherry DVR, which both run on Linux, for the cameras, but that's putting all your eggs in one basket, and would be a little more "involved".
I went with a Linear HUSBZB-1. One of the top reviews there even has some helpful instructions for setting it up with Home Assistant. The controller itself seems to work fine. Unfortunately, I'm having trouble getting the brightness control of my GE dimmers working correctly. On/off and fan controls work perfectly, so I'm guessing the problem is in Home Assistant or OpenZWave. So, YMMV depending on what you use it for.
Here is $38 - GoControl HUSBZB-1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ826F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WXf7Cb3M7R2G3
This is the one I use and have a few others that use it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ826F8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details
It’s a zigbee / Seaver’s stick. I run my through esxi pass through to an Ubuntu vm and have had no problems. Since the .91 update zigbee and zwave have been solid/much easier to manage in the interface.
Not a Deconz user but I use the Husbzb-1 stick w/ Pi-Hole addon in Hassio. Handles my zigbee and zwave devices great - if your open to alternatives that may work for you.
This USB stick does both Zigbee and Z-wave. Been using it with HASS for a couple months now, and it's worked great!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ826F8
Most people use the Aotech Zwave dongle here: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Stick-Z-Wave-create-gateway/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537259191&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aotech+zstick&amp;dpID=41%252BuCNE13iL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
You could also get a combination Zwave/Zigbee dongle for even less: https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-CECOMINOD016164-Linear-HUSBZB-1/dp/B01GJ826F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537259245&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=zigbee+dongle&amp;dpID=41GzEBEgWSL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Alot of people start with Zwave or Zigbee controlled lights, but most people end up with Zwave switches instead, because humans need to also turn those devices on and off. The easiest Zwave switches/dimmers to acquire are the GE Line of Jasco switches, which are sold by https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Required-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537259343&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=ge+wave&amp;dpID=51rDfQfpEAL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
I use a couple of SYLVANIA SMART+ ZigBee Bulb (3 actually) around the house on the HUSBZB-1 controller. Initially I was very frustrated because automations would fail to change the color correctly (I was going from blue, to a standard warm yellow). What I figured out is to use RGB values for the actual colors and kelvin temperatures when trying to replicate a standard bulb. Now they work pretty much flawlessly.
I use a Linear HUSBZB-1 connected to a Raspberry Pi 3. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ826F8/
You're best served getting a 3- or 4-bulb starter kit that comes with a bridge.
Because the bulbs are basically Zigbee devices, you could use the bulbs without a bridge using a zigbee usb hub and Home Assistant's emulated bridge, but Google Home doesn't support it without a lot of extra work. You'll also lose the Hue app that makes manual control much easier.
I bought [this one](GoControl CECOMINOD016164 HUSBZB-1 USB Hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ826F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5egTDb99SJWGA), the reviews were ok and it's cheap, will see what I get into tomorrow when it is delivered.
It's fairly simple
Combine this https://www.home-assistant.io (if your running on a pi you probably want hass.io) with one of these and your pretty much done.
Get this while you can.. US model.
Linear HUSBZB-1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ826F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t1M6AbD6CE073
Good start.
I made the switch from Smartthings to HA. For me, I absolutely loved WebCoRE and had a ton of pistons. In several rooms, I have smart bulbs controlled by smart switches so this takes a lot of automation that you want to be very instant (press button on wall > turn on light). With Smartthings there was delay due to cloud which is what made me move over to HA. Also a string of random cloud downtimes helped push me.
First off, stop trying to do any automations in HA itself. Do it all in Node-RED. Install Node-RED from the hass.io packages and then watch some youtube tutorials on how to get started. There's a learning curve as well and coming from someone who likes scripting in WebCoRE, I asked myself why I'd go with something as visual as Node-RED, but trust me it's extremely powerful once you get the hang of it. And your scripting ability will come into play in function nodes.
Move all your devices over to HA. Just get off Smartthings. You currently have 0 benefits of HA since you're still relying on ST and cloud. Regarding Z-Wave stick, I use a HUSBZB-1 stick. I'm very happy with it. It has both Z-wave and zigbee in one stick. I have just over 30 z-wave devices attached to it and never noticed any problems.
For Alexa, the Alexa Node-RED bridge made it extremely easy to control my devices with Alexa. There's an easier install than what's in the documentation on the website because you can just type the package name into Node-RED and click install. This seemed to be the easiest way to set up Alexa control for free. But it's probably not as feature filled as the HA Cloud method that relies on Nabu Casa ($5/month).
Yeah I would recommend z-wave and zigbee devices. You can pick up this USB Stick that works with both protocols and set up a Homeassistant server. The good news is home Assistant is open source and already has over 600 components. So you can use just about any device out there. Other options exist for this as well such as OpenHab and HomeSeer if you want to check those out. If you want to learn a little more about Homeassistant check out BRUH Automation on YouTube.
You can sell your aetco zwave dongle and buy the HUSBZB-1 -- it was in stock yesterday on Amazon, but out of stock today -- available from a third party seller right now for about $20 more then Amazon's price:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01GJ826F8/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=new
It will do ZWave and Zigbee natively
The Aeotec dongle is Z-Wave only. For Z-Wave plus Zigbee, try the GoControl USHBZB-1.
You won't be using SmartThings any more - you'll have to switch to HomeAssistant, OpenHAB, or other system that can run on your server. You'll have to pair all your devices with the new Z-Wave and Zigbee networks, recreate your automations, and re-establish any linkages between the server and external systems like Nest, Amazon, Logitech, etc.
The home automation load is minimal - your i5-9600 machine is many orders of magnitude beyond any possible load from this application.
I am giving +1 to the GoControl USHBZB-1 on dedicated computer. The other recommendation I have is that if you do go with Home assistant, I recommend the alternative home assistant software, here is the method of install that I used, instead of Hass.io. I messed around with both but I found that while Hass.io is the easier one to setup, it feels rather limited in many regards. Ultimately, the "alternative" home assistant meshed with me better. Also, the software has gotten a good bit easier to use in recent months.
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I have also heard good things in regards to openhab but I don't actually have any experience with them.
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EDIT: From my understanding, all zwave should work with all zwave devices. Zigbee has different protocols of zigbee which may not be able to communicate with each other if the devices are from different protocols. Supposedly zigbee 3.0 fixes that but who knows.
https://amzn.com/B01GJ826F8
Cool in that case, I'll order
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Wireless-Archer-C1200/dp/B01IUDUJE0/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486666551&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=router
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-340Mbps-XFINITY-Cablevision-CM400-1AZNAS/dp/B0111MRLES/ref=sr_1_21?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486665457&amp;sr=1-21&amp;keywords=router
Are these good for speed? I work at home so fast connection is important. Is there a faster hardware that I should consider?
You mention that the installation guy will just come turn on the modem. Do we even need the guy to come if we buy our own stuff? Can I be the one that "turns it on"? Also, I am also ordering a home phone service and cable so he may need to come anyway?
Yup this is the one I got, setup took under 5 mins. No complaints so far.
$100 is waaayyyy too much for a "decent" router. You can get reliable gigabit routers on Amazon for less than $60
Lol im royalty because a gbe router nowadays is sooooo expensive...and FYI i have no work at the moment, thanks for asking tho...also FYI again the newest raspi3b+ comes with gigabit, ofc cant totally take advantage of it because of usb2 and because all usb is shared but yea...15MB/s is achievable...top and with all the fury...
To add a bit, you can probably get an used super solid tl-wr1043nd for like 20-30 bucks, or well...something like this
Gigabit is 1Gb.
So yes, the TP-Link will do fine for basic stuff assuming you just want something cheap that you plug in and forget about. It should get close to maxing your 100/100 line over hardwire, and fairly close over WiFi.
If you spend about $10 more, this one here https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B01IUDUJE0/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537307061&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=tp+link+1200+ac will have superior performance in both WiFi and hardwire.
I have my own modem with Comcast. They do not throttle my speeds and the internet is fine. Here's the modem I have :
ARRIS SURFboard SB6183 DOCSIS 3.0... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MA5U1FW?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Here's the router:
TP-Link AC1200 Gigabit Wireless Wi-Fi... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IUDUJE0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I was always told they last longer if you get the modem and router separately.
If the verizon router looks like this, it's a decent modem but a garbage router. If it's one of the newer ones, it's actually pretty solid, and your wifi problems aren't coming from the router. I've had both of these, the newer one is good enough that I didn't bother hooking up my nice router when I moved in..
Buy something like this. Set it up. Turn the wifi off on the TWC/Verizon FiOS router. Enjoy having decent wifi.
Don't do it. Get a modem and get a router. I'd get a cheap refurb modem as the standards are changing and prices will drop.
When the cable modem standard changes (or you change to an incompatible provider) you just unplug the router, plug it into the new device and everything is ready to go; all your devices have their password, all your guests and all the devices you forgot about still are connected.
You didn't mention speeds or carrier so it's hard to spec it for you. I have had several friends get this router and recommended it many times and had zero complaints. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IUDUJE0/
I'd just get a cheap refurb router from Amazon, Arris SB6141 (these were $30 but jumped up to $40 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OMDZAV0 ) or SB6183 (dropped to $45 https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6183-RB-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B01ERK1JLM )and plug it in. Look and see what devices your provider supports and the speeds they support (my 6141 is up to 343Mbps but some carriers only support it to 110Mbps, I've had this refurb for 3 years and it's running great).
How do you think it stands up against the Archer c1200?
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Wireless-Archer-C1200/dp/B01IUDUJE0/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478921934&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=wireless+router
If you can I'd honestly suggest stretching your budget a bit. $45 will get you a decent router: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B01IUDUJE0/
I used to have a lot of trouble. Then I got a Google Mesh and put one of the wifi extenders 5 feet from the Peloton. Haven't had a problem since.
Here's a link if you're interested.
https://www.amazon.com/Google-Wifi-system-set-replacement/dp/B01MAW2294/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524984253&amp;sr=1-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31rlzhTFq4L&amp;ref=plSrch
Something like this might work for yea?
Few of these systems out there and people seem to love em.
Is your new house bigger? Might not have as good wifi coverage.
For a whole home coverage check into eero, orbi or even looks like google has just made a system as well https://www.amazon.com/Google-Wifi-system-set-replacement/dp/B01MAW2294/ref=pd_sim_147_24?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B01MAW2294&amp;pd_rd_r=15Q8VCB0MY4KTBRGMFD0&amp;pd_rd_w=YQXJH&amp;pd_rd_wg=nA2eq&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=15Q8VCB0MY4KTBRGMFD0
ESS is an extended service set. It is built into the 802.11 WiFi standard. Basically it allows you to connect more than one router wirelessly and use the same SSID. Then clients would seamlessly associate with whichever access point had the stronger signal. The extender won't make the problem worse but it has to be setup properly. If an extender is on the same channel as your main wifi it will make things worse, as long as you use non overlapping channels (1,6,or 11 for 2.4ghz) and only have a 10-15% overlap of signal it works perfectly.
I worded my response confusingly since I was in a rush. You can take almost any old router and turn it into a repeater via the firmware. So I was suggesting rather than going out and buying a new equipment he can re purpose an old router and extend the signal to the problem area of his house without the time or expense of running wires across the house. A wired connection would be superior but it is also a lot more time consuming to physically run a wire, especially if going through walls. From my experience routers tend to work much better...repeaters and devices that are only access points in the consumer space tend to be poor quality and lack any customization.
All that being said I was basing my answer on what will work for the least amount of money. If you don't have an old router you can re purpose then your choices are power line, buying a repeater/extender, or if money is less of an object then get this google mesh solution and your wireless can be scaled to cover wherever you want.
https://www.amazon.com/Google-Wifi-system-set-replacement/dp/B01MAW2294/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498103371&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wireless+mesh
I dont know a ton about powerline adapter setups like others have mentioned... But what is a new thing is WiFi Systems, where you have multiple access points that go through the same network. I have the Google Wifi 3 point mesh system on sale at amason there are two Ethernet ports on each box, except for the one that will be in use to connect to your modem. So the potential to hardwire in multiple rooms. And it's been very reliable wifi performance
This TP-Link was rater "Best router for most people." It will handle your internet speeds, is dual band, and has some of the best range and features in its price range. It's a pretty standard recommendation on r/homenetworking too.
You could also go for a mesh system like Google Wifi. It's a little more expensive, but its designed to be very simple and work for large areas, like multiple floors. Depends on your budget though.
> In other words, is 2 routers possible?
Actually what you want to do is run cables to key points (your TV, your office, etc) and then set up a WiFi mesh network.
For best performance each mesh point should be connected by cable back to the main mesh point (which also functions as a router) but they will also talk to each other over WiFi if necessary.
For consumer use Google's mesh system is generally considered to be the best. Each Google mesh point has two gigabit ethernet ports so you're going to need a basic switch by the main mesh point to connect everything together.
Note: Don't mistake mesh for using WiFi extenders. Extenders suck ass compared to mesh. Mesh is transparent to your devices and makes it seem like your entire home is covered by one single network, much like with cellular systems. WiFi extenders create separate networks within your house and can cause all sorts of problems as your device tries to figure out which extender to connect to. It's a mess. Mesh is awesome.
I think you can do it if you're willing to settle for two separate adapters - first a PoE to separate Ethernet+MicroUSB, and then Ethernet+MicroUSB to OTG.
For instance this Ethernet-OTG adapter - which I know works with a Chromecast - would probably work fine with
this adapterthis adapter.You can use a Canary or Piper plus a POE splitter cable like this one. Both have ethernet ports and a micro usb port. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_v1JcAb66BJK36 Arlo Q also has a POE model. All are essentially kind of bleh without the reoccuring services. Arlo Q is free* but my suspicion is that is only till they dominate the market and wipe out the little startups. Most people willing to run POE will just do a NVR solution since the total cost of ownership is lowest that way. It does put more responsibility on you the owner to keep up with patches and security. Blink and arlo battery powered are motion triggered so expect to miss a lot of motion or recharge more often.
I run one of these on my Pi3 and it works like a champ
You can using either the official Raspberry Pi PoE hat or an adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_-VWFDbQP627W6
My home network is also all Unifi and about every Raspi I have on it is running off of PoE. It's a little more challenging making it look pretty with cable management but I'm always happy to save a power outlet where I can.
If you're cheap and not bothered by the aesthetics you can also use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-802-3af-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry/dp/B01MDLUSE7/
Shouldn't be a problem, this also allows you to put a ups on the switch and not have to worry about any poe powered devices going down. Also allows you to power cycle a device just by disabling/enabling the port it's on. I use these all over the place, much cheaper than the hats.
I am running a pi hole and use this to power and connect the zero to the POE switch.. Works remarkable well and I think it was about 8 bux when I bought it.
Something like this?.... Interesting idea. Thanks!
Nothing too fancy about my pi-holes running on RPi 3's. I am running a slightly modified version of chronometer2, and since my switch is PoE I'm using that as a power supply for the Pi's. I found this handy PoE splitter that works wonderfully for powering the Pi's from the switch.
I use a powerline Internet adapter like this and get nearly Ethernet speeds despite my modem being across the house from my computer. Not sharing the Wi-Fi with everybody's cell phones and whatnot is great.
You may want to try looking into using a powerline adapter. /r/homenetworking hates them because the results vary by each use case. You could try that as a solution and if it works keep it, if not return it.
In the case that it works it's maybe a 15-30 min setup.
Others have mentioned using existing cable runs with a coax to eth converter and that would work too.
Powerline Adapter
I would go with TPLink AV1000 for $46 from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AV1000-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B06WP2ZT5N
Eh, there are gigabit+ powerline adapters out there. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=twister_B01I6U1QMQ?th=1
I've actually never had a problem with powerline. Used it to connect game consoles just out of reach of the wifi and never experienced an issue in the two apartments or one house I've used them in.
So as far as WiFi is concerned I used a panda usb adapter for the longest time. I believe everything in the panda line up works out of the box. But since it seems that ur just worried about cables running across the house I would recommend a powerline adapter. The way they work is u have to wall outlets (one by the PC and one by your motem) and u plug it he Ethernet cables into these wall outlets and the signal is carried over the powerlines in your house. They are a lot faster and more reliable from my experience and are easy to set up as long as you have an open wall outlet near your 2 entry points. Here is the one I use:
TP-Link Av1000 Powerline Ethernet Adapter - Gigabit Port, Plug&Play, Power Saving(Tl-PA7010 Kit) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_c4NIDbY4XGYVA
The ubiquity one is PoE, not EoP. It will not work.
TP has extremely well rated [options on amazon](TP-Link AV1000 Powerline Ethernet Adapter - Gigabit Port, Plug&Play, Power Saving(TL-PA7010 KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_dqt0BbDEKS3RH) for $40-50. It will likely meet your needs just fine. I’m not an expert on specific products though. Just be sure to read the reviews, which have a lot of advice about getting good performance.
If you can't run a cable from your router to your PS4, highly recommend PowerLine Adapters, like this one:
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=psdc_1194444_t1_B00IBPLI48
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Plug one into the wall by your router and connect it using Ethernet.
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Plug one near your PS4 and run ethernet to the PS4.
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Bam. You now have a gigabit wired connection using the power wires in the walls of your house.
I run mine to a switch in my entertainment center that connects my PS4, PS4 Pro, TV and Hue Hub to the wired LAN.
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YW.
These aren't guaranteed to work but if running wires isn't your thing and you're ok with a little extra latency you can pretty much get an ethernet connection anywhere in the house though the electrical outlets with these.
https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-ethernet-Adapter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG
no not usb's. it in fact uses internet cables which are usually provided
options you see on the amazin page, are the most common. there are max speeds rated, the higher the speed of the device, the more expensive. like if you have gigabit internet and you want all of it, you would probably want the 1000mbps one
you can also get ones with multiple ports so that multiple devices can use the cabled internet.
Yeah I could try this one and hey if I can't return then I am only $40 down
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=twister_B01I6U1QMQ?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Do you think that would be a good adapter?
Yes, although in my experience for $10 more you can get the gigabit (1,000 Mbps) adapters and future proof yourself. I don’t know where they get the “500 Mbps” number, but if you google it, all of those use 100mbps Ethernet ports “fast Ethernet” as they term it. My speed went from 50mbps to 140 Mbps when I switched from the AV500 to a gigabit adapter. I know everyone may not have over 100mbps internet now, but $10 for future proofing is worth it in my opinion. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-TL-PA7010-KIT/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;ref=yo_pop_d_pd
TLDR Powerline Adapters
I have sprectrum 60Mbs down and 10up. I was using a Wifi dongle and then after some software issues i ditched it for a PCIE wireless card. Even then i was getting drops and i was only getting 30Mbs down and 3 up.
I then stumbled on powerline adapters. I bought one and haven't looked back. Easy to set up and im getting the full 60Mbs i am getting at the modem. The adapter runs ethernet over the power cablles in your house and its magic!here is what i bought and i works great for streaming too.
link
You can use one of these
RP-SMA Male to RP-SMA Female Wifi Antenna Extension Cable Cord 2m / 6' https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9V8T62/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HHtMzb5F3TAPV
To extend the routers antenna. After that you can build a focusing device. Pringles can and parabolic cookware antennas are popular. Google a bit and you'll find tonnes. Extend the routers antenna for one and put a USB adapter in the other. Bam, point to point WiFi.
Wires and plumbing is a good thing. Means the holes are pre drilled and you can just piggy back. 400 ft is a long way for wifi under the best circumstances. Are you sure that's the distance?
Ethernet bought in bulk would always be the best way to go, offering the best speed and reliability. Second to that is MOCA or power line adapters. Both will be faster and more reliable than wifi over that distance. I had better luck with MOCA personally, but power line adapters can be had pretty cheap.
https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-AV1000-Powerline-WiFi-Extender/dp/B06WP2ZT5N?th=1 need wifi on it or passthrough?
The most powerful tower you can get.The whole "upgrade later" raises questions though.The build may be done differently depending on what monitor upgrades you do.Also going all out now but upgrading in like 1 year is not efficient.You will be monitor bottlenecked and the 2080 super will not be used to its full extend.
PCPartPicker Part List
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 3600X 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor | $264.99 @ Newegg Canada
Motherboard | MSI B450 Gaming Plus MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard | $114.99 @ Newegg Canada
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $103.68 @ Amazon Canada
Storage | HP EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $139.99 @ Canada Computers
Video Card | Palit GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER 8 GB GameRock Video Card | $949.00 @ Newegg Canada Marketplace
Case | Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case | $89.99 @ Canada Computers
Power Supply | SeaSonic FOCUS Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $96.50 @ Vuugo
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1759.14
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-30 10:11 EST-0500 |
if you can't use ethernet, the next best thing is Powerline. It has better transfer speeds and ping than WLan and doesn't mind thick walls.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504538768&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=powerline%2Btp%2Blink&amp;th=1
You plug it next to your router and pc and connect them via ethernet cable. They transmit the signal over your wall power cables.
You can easily still use Ethernet with this.
TP-Link AV1000 Powerline Ethernet Adapter - Gigabit Port, Plug&Play, Power Saving(TL-PA7010 KIT) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WP2ZT5N
Powerline adapter provides up to 1000Mbps Ethernet over power.
I was having a similar issue in my house where the wifi was real weak in a room on the other side of the house. I purchased this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WP2ZT5N?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Basically you take the an ethernet cable going from the router and plug it into the wall, it sends the internet through your electric wiring, you plug another one in somewhere else in the house and that one will recieve the internet signal through the wiring. The one I linked you need to plug another ethernet into then run that to your computer, gaming system, or whatever it is you need internet for, but they do make ones that have wifi as well so the wifi signal will be coming from where ever you plug it in.
Sidenote, I've seen complaints saying in the reviews saying they need to be on the same breaker, mine are on different breakers but all on the same box and it works great. I did speed tests before and after I hooked it up and the speeds were essentially the same for me.
They're pretty damn neat. But from what I understand it utilizes your house's electrical grid to route the signal through. It was the clear winner vs. wifi for my household. We had 1 powerline sending signal to 3 others upstairs and worked like a charm before hardwiring our PCs directly to the downstairs router.
We've had two separate ones, the TP Link AV500 and the TP Link AV1000. Honestly I'm not sure if there was a difference so I'd probably recommend just getting the AV500. We only went up to the AV1000 when we added on the third person.
Setup is super simple, plug the one adapter to an outlet by the router, and connect the two via ethernet. Then plug the other adapter into an outlet near whatever device (PC, 2nd router, etc) you want to connect, and they'll pair. I believe there may be a button to press.
That is a mediocre deal for $550. Building it new would cost $600.
I would ask him to lower the price to $500 at least. You're giving up a lot of quality and all the warranties you would get from a new PC.
PCPartPicker Part List
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 7 2700 3.2 GHz 8-Core Processor | $186.43 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | ASRock B450M-HDV R4.0 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $64.88 @ OutletPC
Memory | *Crucial 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $63.99 @ Adorama
Storage | ADATA SU800 128 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $22.03 @ Amazon
Storage | *Hitachi Ultrastar 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $33.03 @ Amazon
Video Card | Gigabyte Radeon RX 580 4 GB AORUS 4G Video Card | $169.99 @ Amazon
Case | DIYPC MA01 MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $25.97 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 400 W ATX Power Supply | $34.99 @ ModMyMods
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $601.31
| *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-05 14:19 EDT-0400 |
Superior $600 New PC
PCPartPicker Part List
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor | $132.90 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | ASRock B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $69.99 @ Amazon
Memory | *Team T-FORCE VULCAN Z 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $59.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Team L5 LITE 3D 480 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $52.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $42.85 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Sapphire Radeon RX 580 8 GB PULSE Video Card | $169.99 @ Newegg
Case | DIYPC MA01 MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $25.97 @ Newegg
Power Supply | *Corsair CX (2017) 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $44.99 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $599.67
| *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-05 14:08 EDT-0400 |
Any bluetooth adapter will work. I use this one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0775YF36R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0IOJDbSVZW7RG
ZEXMTE Bluetooth USB Adapter CSR... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0775YF36R?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share this is what i have. havent had any issues, works well and cheap
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor | $165.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Noctua - NH-D9L 46.4 CFM CPU Cooler | $51.89 @ Newegg
Motherboard | MSI - B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | $99.99 @ Amazon
Memory | G.Skill - Aegis 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $135.98 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Aegis 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $135.98 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial - MX500 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $98.89 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $43.90 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Gigabyte - Radeon RX 580 8GB AORUS 8G Video Card | $229.99 @ Amazon
Case | Fractal Design - Focus G (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $62.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $69.88 @ OutletPC
Optical Drive | Asus - DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $18.39 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | TP-Link - TL-WN881ND PCI-Express x1 802.11b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter | $17.99 @ Newegg Business
Monitor | LG - 29WK600-W 29.0" 2560x1080 60Hz Monitor | $243.90 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1395.75
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $1375.75
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-09-05 22:45 EDT-0400 |
Webcam: https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-LifeCam-HD-3000-for-Business/dp/B005BZNEKM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536201556&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=lifecam+hd-3000&amp;dpID=31S7L1sv1cL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Bluetooth: https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Receiver-Transfer-Wireless-Keyboard/dp/B0775YF36R/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536201601&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=bluetooth+adapter&amp;dpID=41gXomRdk7L&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
A case with more than 3 USB ports will cost more than 100$ extra, so if it's not a necessity, I would just deal with the 2. The LG UltraWide is one of the best color reproducing monitor at a resonable price, and not curved. A RX580 is plenty for the games you listed and frees up budget for 32GB RAM, so you can have those 90 chrome tabs open. I would recommend buying Win10 and MS Office from eBay, just make sure the seller is reputable.
No. Just no. That is to feed audio from Bluetooth into an aux jack, and happens to use USB for power.
You need an actual USB interface adapter.
Like this.
Does anyone know how well these USB Bluetooth adapters work on switch? How is the audio quality/delay? I wanted to use a headphones, so i don't make a lot of noise. We'll still playing on my TV.
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Receiver-Transfer-Wireless-Keyboard/dp/B0775YF36R/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521057781&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=bluetooth+usb
I wanted to use headphones with my Switch docked, but Nintendo Switch Pro controller doesn't have a Headphone jack. On PS4/XB1 the controller all have one built in which sounds great with no delay. Luckily my headphones have both audio jack and blue tooth.
This is the one that I just got for my Wii guitar and I couldn't be any happier, feels like there's very little delay.
Bluetooth Adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0775YF36R/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Software/Drivers for the Wii Guitar:
https://www.julianloehr.de/educational-work/hid-wiimote/
k just did this:
----
---
Maybe there is some issue with your BT radio and the SC? If you google both terms you might find if other people are having similar issues.
Windows identifies mine as "Generic Bluetooth Radio", made by Cambridge Silicon Radio Ltd., ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0775YF36R/ )
Thank you for your reply. I am currently using this one. I just ordered the one you linked me too though so hopefully I'll have luck with it. Thank you for your reply.
try a mesh system like Google Wifi
Buy a Google WiFi system
It has been decided that we can not run a cable so now the options are the mesh system and it appears there are some good options out there. Can you please help choose which model would best to go with for longevity of product, security if possible, and reliability?
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Looks like the Netgear Orbi RBK50 is on sale around $90 off, but only has two points?
LINK for Ultra Performance Orbi RBK50 (2 points) - would 2 points be enough?
LINK for NetGear Orbi RBK33 (3 points)
Deco M4 3-Pack
Deco M5 3-Pack
Google WiFi system, 3-Pack
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Budget is to $300 and under.
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So my Cox cable modem is also a router so I presume I would plug the main router into the modem router, disable the Cox network and only use the new network routing system? Or what would be the best configuration here?
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( I like the idea of having a guest network and putting any unsecure or unsure devices on the guest network, i would presume the guest network has same speed as the primary network right? )
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Thanks for your guys helps so far! Definitely appreciate it :)
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EDIT: Also want to make sure it works well with iOS devices since that will be the majority of devices connected.
Google Wifi Mesh and Netgear ethernet switch. I don’t have ethernet wires running across the ceiling/walls.
I hide my Wifi Hub and Switch under/behind the sofa.
Google Wifi
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MAW2294/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QWJ0Cb5K821NW
Netgear Ethernet Switch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HGLVZLY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZYJ0CbF7D1Y4B
Cat 7
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076FNS3NZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2XJ0Cb8JA7EAW
You can even do it on a budget by buying some old AC router and installing Tomato USB on it and turning it into a wireless ethernet bridge.
This is the mesh network I'm using. I regret not buying it much sooner.
https://www.amazon.com/Google-WiFi-system-3-Pack-replacement/dp/B01MAW2294/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=google+wifi&qid=1556858369&s=gateway&sr=8-3
https://www.costco.com/Google-Wifi-Whole-Home-Mesh-Wifi-System,-4-pack.product.100406436.html
Could it really be the Google WiFi causing the issue? Right now the way I have it setup is this
Coax from wall -> ARRIS Surfboard -> Google WiFi -> Netgear unmanaged switch -> PC
All devices on the network lag, including those hardwired. I tried swapping out one of my nodes from the living room to my room where the modem is and the problem persists, so it's not a hardware issue with Google router. What do you mean by mesh box solution? Here's what I have
I bought an Orbi in March and it's been great!
I too have a 5 room flat and my bedroom is right on the other side of the house, farthest away from the fibre line in.
I personally wouldn't recommend Google Wifi as it's exactly the same as just having 3 repeaters around the house; no dedicated radio for the nodes to speak to each other so the speed is cut in half.
https://www.amazon.com/Google-Wifi-system-set-replacement/dp/B01MAW2294
Here are your options for home wifi networking:
APs are generally more stable (UBIQUITI makes great ones) due to the wired connection. I like using APs because I can buy as I need more and set some up on different VLANs and hide SSIDs, but those are more advanced options. For most people who do not want to run cable or go with more of a permanent networking setup, the easiest and most effective solution is generally a mesh system. The TP-Link one is great as well as Google WiFi.
EDITED: Because the bot thought I was using affiliate links...
Network extenders are not good, especially the kind that connect via power-line Ethernet. Best bet is to get a wireless access point that bridges to the router, or better yet, whole-home wifi like Google Wifi:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MAW2294/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_i1KUDbMRVJFMM
I've a spare Google Wifi system (set of 3) (Brand new), coming in from USA, for sale.
It would be the ideal equipment for your relative's wifi issues. Hit me up in the PM if you are interested.
This is something that might be of help. Wi-Fi extender routers. They also come in single versions that you can add more to.
Edit: to add to this. I have shitty wifi router modem combo and I was tired of not being able to sit out side with my rig on the back porch for when I wanted to smoke and relax with a game. So I purchased these with the intent to wire these so I had 100% connection like I would wired to the modem. However once I got these I decided to try and use them just on the wifi as it's supposed to be able to bounce signal to strengthen the wifi around the whole house (it's called a mesh network). So after getting it set up I tested the wifi connection. Now before the setup wired I get 125 down and 40 up. On the old wifi network out side I got 10 down and 5 up. Now with the new mesh network not wired up I get 120 to 125 down and 30 to 40 up and that's out side with out the access points being wired other than having to wire the power. Funny enough they have wan ports on them so I use one of the 3 as a wifi card basically lol. Good luck with what you do but this helped me and I never had to go the extra step to wire the access points. Wifi has come a long way.
6120 is End of Life and is a bad choice for 200 Mbps. Get a SB6183 for sure. if you got budget get a CM600 or D3.1 modem but not really needed.
also, make sure Comcast has pushed correct BLAST PRO config file.
Always prefer separates. reasons below: http://pickmymodem.com/cable-modem-wi-fi-modem-router-combo-one-buy/
for modems, pretty much SB6183 or CM600 are fine. if you prefer Arris, go for 6183.
http://amzn.to/2q0wYG6 - 6183
http://amzn.to/2qtNyxZ - CM600
for Routers, few options:
AC1900 R7000. Netgear http://amzn.to/2q0ykk0
Archer C9 http://amzn.to/2pzu4q4
Have you thought about google or Orbi Mesh systems? it gives pretty good performance.
http://amzn.to/2q0NUMq - Orbi (this is from Netgear and this gives hell of WIFI performance)
http://amzn.to/2pzsyUW - google mesh
How about Modem + EdgeRouterLite + Ubiquiti APs. This is complex setup and bit expensive
http://amzn.to/2pzBgTe - Edgerouter lite http://amzn.to/2pJHsIG - ubiquiti AP
Let me know if you have other questions.
We have Verizon Fios (Frontier now) 150mbs up and down. We upgraded to that router and it worked better but we still had issues.
What fixed it totally was getting the google wifi we went from 70 to 80 down to right on 150. Vue has worked perfectly since then no pauses or skips.
Parents have vue and use the Amazon fire tv and were have issues with skips and pauses. Got them Google wifi haven't had a issue since.
I highly recommend getting it. You can buy it in a three pack or individually. Easy setup.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MAW2294/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501870496&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=google+wifi&amp;psc=1
My ISP is Spectrum cable and my router is this.
I have used "passive PoE splitters" like these along with a buck regulator similar to this to implement my own DIY PoE solution for remotely powering RPIs. This will only work with "Alternative B" PoE (see "Mode B" and/or "Mode A").
Alternatively, you could use something like this which is basically the above solution in a single device (and didn't exist when I built my system).
All the above product links are super cheap-o Chinesium units; you've been warned :-/
Mine was sold with an antenna, but there's other inmarsat traffic to poke at after Outernet moves. :)
I like the $49 price point, that's sort of a psychological magic spot. Under $50 for a board that's similar to any of the $30-40-ish embedded boards plus a $20 rtlsdr plus a $5 USB hub all built in? Yeah, that's pretty sweet. Somebody's gonna pair that sucker with a PoE splitter and put it tower-top.
Okay, so here's my logic: Let's assume a single SKU doesn't make sense long-term. You want to get the cost down on the 256MB, Outernet-specific version. So make that one. What's the most sensible configuration for the other(s)? Can just one additional SKU bring broader appeal?
I feel like making the 512MB version with 1090-specific RF parts might be the best route for general-purpose functionality. It still has the bypass path for "everyone else", the ADS-B market seems pretty active, and it would seem to minimize module count and soldering for the largest number of users. I never even looked to see if the bypass path also has bias-tee functionality, but that would be good.
And for those of us who want to build our own filters right into the thing, since we're comfortable with soldering already by definition, we can always scrape off the 1090 parts and reuse the pads. :)
The only folks left out in the cold by that split would be those who want to do L-band stuff but need the big RAM. Which is definitely a few people -- but I think most of 'em already have a Dreamcatcher, probably? Or just do another run of those and set 'em up as a while-supplies-last third SKU. Which may have been what just happened with the clearance sale. They had their chance!
Could (all) the alternate version(s) be offloaded to rtl-sdr.com or someone? So the only one you'd be on the hook for supporting would be the "official" Skylark-specific board, and everything else is for experimenters, here's a schematic, here's the radionerds page, figure the rest out.
Yeah. Their racks are pricey for what they are and I dislike their functionality where it looks like the USB and Ethernet ports of the RPi are internal (based on the switch in this diagram) to the chassis.
I agree the PoE hats make it nice and clean in terms of cable management but this type of splitter is a wonderful, cheaper replacement that doesn't block the GPIO pins.
Just to clarify, you're powering it over PoE? I'm new to RPi...so forgive me. Are you using "The Hat" or something like this. The latter seems like a better, cheaper & easier solution to me.
Using any particular distro? Or just plain old Raspbian? And how are you viewing that on the RPi? Just browser session in full screen? RTSP via VLC or some equivalent?
Our office is offsite from this location (accessible over our private WAN though), so would like some ability remote in and troubleshoot if the feed is down or not displaying properly. I'm assuming VNC would be OK for that unless there's a more elegant solution.
Hey, I just the hub and it’s perfectly working. Thanks for making this product.
PS. I was able to buy a POE adapter for it.
PI POE Adapter
Will this work? I’ve not tried it.
https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-802-3af-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry/dp/B01MDLUSE7/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539355869&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=poe+to+usb&amp;dpID=41yrqOTd9zL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Get a 802.3af PoE splitter. It is cheaper than the PoE HAT and is rated for 5V at 2.4A.
The default config does not have POE available, but it can be added with the following: https://store.gl-inet.com/products/mini-poe-module . Alternatively I may go with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-802-3af-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry/dp/B01MDLUSE7/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=poe+micro+usb&qid=1571789262&sr=8-3
No data, and no PoE support from Wyze.
But you can use these to do your own PoE to them.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7
I have used that one successfully in a location far too distant to use USB cables for power.
The chromecast adapter is just a usb Ethernet adapter though right (doesn't actually have poe?)? Curious why people are using that vs any other usb ethernet adapter, is it because it happens to have the microusb jack so no usb adapter needed?
Its too bad nobody makes a ENC28J60 with poe power on the board, those can be had for a couple dollars if you are willing to wait for it from china and are common to pair with a pi zero so lots of info available.
Here is a true 48v poe to 5v adapter you can use with the chromcast adapter or the enc28j60: https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-802-3af-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry/dp/B01MDLUSE7
I use this one. It's a bit longer than the one OP posted. But its not as wide.
It works great. I'm using it for a Zero cam in my garage. But either one should be fine.
Are you using one of the 48V to 5V PoE splitters which have recently come to popularity?
I had one connected to my switch to power my Pi and it seemed to do something to the Pi preventing the ethernet link from coming up.
APs and cameras for the most part. You can also get POE splitter to power other electronics like a pi-hole or IoT.
If you run your POE switch through a backup battery that benefit will extend out to the devices it powers.
Edit: spelling and stuff
What is this splitter that you talk about. So I plug in the ethernet cable into the PoE switch. Then what do I need at the other end? So the power goes from the switch, though the cable into the camera.
Like this: https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-802-3af-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry/dp/B01MDLUSE7/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525311114&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=ethernet+poe+splitter+usb+micro&amp;psc=1
It was mentioned in a comment above. I don't see any USB C ones, however you can buy a small MicroUSB to USBC dual pack for $10-15.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MDLUSE7
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AV1000-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=sr_1_6?crid=39Q3SQL66WL70&keywords=ethernet+powerline+adapter+gigabit&qid=1567012253&s=gateway&sprefix=ethernet+powerline+%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-6 These are the ones I have. they work pretty good. there are others that are better but they work for what i need.
You could always get a powerline adapter like this one: TP-Link AV1000 Powerline Ethernet Adapter - Gigabit Port, Plug&Play, Power Saving(TL-PA7010 KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IuZvDbAXFP7ZN
I still get normal Ethernet speeds without the hassle of super long cords everywhere 😁
Wifi is shit. Get powerline ethernet if pulling a direct cable isn't an option.
TP-Link Powerline Adapter 1000 Mbps, 1 Gigabit Port (TL-PA7010 KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-6rDAbZDPXXMN
I have had this set for a few months and have had no complaints. Granted, I don't have fiber so I can't say whether or not powerline adapters will affect that, but they at least have ones they say work with it.
I just go my powerline unit and I am getting 60+ Mbps, basically it works like a Ethernet cable but has 2 adapters 1 you connect to your computer, one to the router.
This is what I got:
TP-LINK TL-PA7010 KIT AV1000 1-Port Gigabit Powerline Adapter up to 1000Mbps https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jy3wCbWTA27FN
It's not the cheapest, but it will save me loads of time, and time=💰.
If routing the ethernet cable to your room isn't an option, I would definitely get a power line adapter (one example here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_6Un.BbA7HKMS4).
You get two of these in the package, plug one in the electrical outlet closest to your router, connect an ethernet cable to it and the router.
Plug the other one into the electrical socket next to your TV/PS4, and connect an ethernet cable from the PS4 to the plug.
These things usually have a "Pair" button which you have to press on both devices in order to connect them.
Now you're most likely not going to get the advertised speed rates (the powerline adapters are heavily dependant on the quality of the electrical wiring and the devices attached to it) but you should definitely get very stable speeds of at least 50mbps, which should be more than enough.
No, that's just one of their products. This is what I have:
TP-Link AV1000 Powerline Ethernet Adapter - Gigabit Port, Plug&Play, Power Saving(TL-PA7010 KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_85E8Bb1VVM67S
WiFi is pretty bad/not reliable unless you spend a lot. I like to hard wire everything. This has worked great for me. You can plug in a network switch or Wireless access point on the other end also. This way it will take the hardwired signal and boost it.
TP-Link Powerline Adapter
WiFi SweetSpots is a cool mobile app to test WiFi connection speed as you move around the house.
Nice! Here's the US/Canadian gigibit version
https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541085860&amp;sr=1-2&amp;refinements=p_89%3ATP-Link&amp;th=1
You could buy something like this https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-ethernet-TL-PA7010-KIT/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539469385&sr=8-3&keywords=ethernet+to+plug not perfect, but it will most likly help :)
that one has antennas because it's a wireless access point. Then it transfers your data over the power lines to the other adapter with just Ethernet. This way you are not flooding the airwaves like normal "wifi extender" which is just relaying stuff entirely wirelessly. you can go with just Ethernet to Ethernet power line adapters for like $40 a pair and leave their shitty wifi repeater in place. That'd help you out but not also fix their wifi problem.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-1000Mbps-TL-PA7010-KIT/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/
The PS4 has notoriously bad WiFi, especially if you have one of the originals (not a Slim or Pro). The 2.4 GHz band in particular is terrible for gaming because of inconsistent latency. If you can’t run an Ethernet cable, I’d suggest something like a powerline or MoCA adapter.
I have a PS4 Pro and I was getting constant lag, “Error 201,” etc. even though my console was about 15 feet from my wireless router with maximum signal on my 5 GHz network. Running some Ethernet cable fixed almost everything. I still get the occasional bit of lag, but it’s pretty rare and I haven’t gotten dropped from a match in over a year.
I’m not trying to put 100% of the blame on your connection, by the way. BF2 just seems very sensitive to latency spikes compared to other games.
Also want to add that I do have a pretty good PC (8700k + 1070ti) and pretty good internet (1gbps) But am using a ethernet adapter. (For those who do not know what it is https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AV1000-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=ethernet+tplink&qid=1571797166&sr=8-2 )
If you don't want to run a wire all the way from your modem to your ps4 you can also get a power line adapter. Your connection will depend on how your house is wired but it'll be a lot better than wifi.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pN7PDbMAE17SA
If your modem is not that far and you don't mind running a wire then getting an long ethernet cable is the cheaper solution.
There is a lot of options to allow for wiring. Take a look at Power Line Adapters that do 1gbps on amazon. I install internet & IPTV for a living and this saves me having to run cat5 across a finished basement for folks with wifi issues.
Try an Ethernet powerline adapter. I’ve been using a pair for a couple years now. Works great
This method isn't fully wireless, however you may want to consider using a TP Link Powerline kit that may avoid using too many cables and ,from what I can see, would provide a reliable connection.
TP Powerline Kit:
UK: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B06WRSHKC6/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile
US: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-1000Mbps-TL-PA7010-KIT/dp/B06WP2ZT5N
^May not be exact same but similar.
Sorry if this was vague but it was my first time giving advice ;).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_Tbc1DbVDNZTJW
You should look at getting some of these:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-ethernet-Adapter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B06WP2ZT5N?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_1194444_0&amp;pf_rd_p=2600d454-8d00-5310-8190-548da6252157&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_i=1194444&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=0T9361NSWAJYN2TXSJMB&amp;th=1
Plug one in near your router and plug it into an empty port on the router. From there plug the other one in near your PS4 and plug the ethernet into your PS4. Boom gigabit to your pS4.
FYI: i had older 300mbit models and they worked just fine for downloading
Roku > Ethernet Switch (A small Linksys one) > TP Link Powerline Adaptor plugged into wall outlet. Then, in the room I have my modem/router, I have the other powerline adaptor going to my router.
I know there are better options, but here's the equipment I'm using:
Linksys 8-Port Metallic Gigabit Switch (SE3008) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F3NUUF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5euTCb077QKPY
TP-Link AV1000 Powerline Ethernet Adapter - Gigabit Port, Plug&Play, Power Saving(TL-PA7010 KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sfuTCbEX2H3XW
Is the power in the garage on the same circuit breaker as the rest of the house? One option would be PowerLine networking equipment which uses your electrical wiring. TP-Link makes some nice ones for cheap. My dad was in the same boat as you in his garage. I used a powerline adapter from TP-Link to connect an UAP-AC-M out there. The link speed is actually really good.
Hmmm....do you mean something like this:
https://www.amazon.ca/TP-LINK-TL-PA7010-KIT-Powerline-1000Mbps/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526655866&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=powerline+adapter+gigabit&amp;psc=1
That would work?
If so, is there a specific make, model and type that would be best?
BTW, live in Toronto Canada.
Thanks very much for this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519235831&amp;sr=8-9&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=powerline+adapter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51aJs5rLVnL&amp;ref=plSrch
i also found this one which says to have 1k Mbps only for 40$ is this one better than the one before. How come the price difference is so high?
Gotcha. This is the one I got:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Super easy to set up and haven't had any problems with it.
Are those of you who are having issues on wireless?
I'm hardwired and I have zero lag issues.
I networked my house and my PS4 has a gigabit connection to my router.
My duo buddy was having lag issues, so I recommended him to try something and it fixed his issues. It's called a powerline adapter, and it uses your wall power plugs for the internet. I know they sound like wizardry, but they work. I used them for quite a while before I networked my house.
Something like this might solve your issues - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b50jE_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&amp;pf_rd_r=4JJMHDBA2SWBXCY9YDYN&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=2885e2ab-dcd5-586f-b78f-00f40c823d7f&amp;pf_rd_i=1194444&amp;tag=julsbuttemb-20&amp;th=1
The older mice won't actually be using bluetooth, but it is a proprietary wireless connection instead. Your easiest solution would just to be buying a cheaper bluetooth adapter off amazon such as https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0775YF36R/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_MLyxDbYB958Y1
or just returning and getting another mouse.
https://www.amazon.com/ZEXMTE-Bluetooth-Receiver-Transfer-Wireless/dp/B0775YF36R/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=usb+bluetooth+adapter&amp;qid=1566575771&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
Once you plug it in all the drivers should install and you just need to go into bluetooth settings in windows to add your devices.
I'm actually using this one off Amazon, works pretty well!
And just in case you haven't already, I recommend SCP Toolkit to pair the controller with the dongle.
I actually meant Zwift, not Strava. Theoretically you could probably use Zwift running on an elliptical.
All you need in that case would be your computer or tablet, a run pod (which sends data to the game from your foot) and an ANT+ or Bluetooth receiver if the pod isn't compatible with your computer. Zwift Running is free to use (cycling is $15 a month)...so you'd actually move around the virtual world. I assume you'll be slower on an elliptical but should still move.
Actually just looked it up...looks like foot pods don't work well with it. Wonder if you can use a Garmin watch to simulate a run.
So would this work? And if I may ask, why 4.0?
I'll assume you're using an Xbox ONE controller. First, you need to know if you have a new or old one. The new one has Bluetooth, while the old one doesn't. See this link.
https://www.reddit.com/r/xboxone/comments/5fr7r1/easy_way_to_tell_if_a_controller_supports/
If you have a new Bluetooth controller, and your PC has Bluetooth connectivity, then you should be able to pair up with normal procedures. If you don't have Bluetooth connectivity, then you'll need an adapter. This one is cheap but there are a bunch of brands you can use.
If you have an old controller, you'll probably need this.
Hope this helps!
> How reliable are the controllers compared to the Vive?
Fine, I've had no issues. Been playing Skyrim with my Odyssey+. Comfort wise about the same.
> Do you have a source for a cheap replacement controller?
Unfortunately the controllers aren't sold separately. Only option is new headset or eBay. YOu may be able to use standard WMR controllers, but same problem.
> Could you show me what extension cable I'll need to purchase?
You shouldn't need one, that said I've used these with my WMR headsets
> How about rechargeable batteries? Do you have a suggestion for a good set of rechargeable batteries and charger to use with the controllers?
Any AA batteries should do. I have no recommendations myself.
> Do you have a link for a reliable USB Bluetooth 4.0 that I should pickup?
Odyssey+ comes with built in BT. OG (Original Odyssey) does not, it will work with any dongle you have. Though its best to have it be line of side (and not under a desk or something. I used this dongle for my demo machines.
> I was told the Odyssey may require some kind of light blanket or cover??? What's the deal with this?
If its what I think you mean, there's a small gap on the side by your eyes for the O+. Which can let some light in. It's generally more noticable on the O+, the OG doesn't really have the gap. VR Cover makes face padding you can buy.
> Is there anything else I should know about this system prior to getting it?
In order to play SteamVR games you need the Windows Mixed Reality for SteamVR pluggin. Make sure that where ever your play area is has some things for the tracking cameras to see, along with adequate lighting and nothing to reflective. (Don't try and play in an empty room with nothing but beige carpet and walls and no light).
You just need any standard USB Bluetooth adapter. Like this, for example.
> All PS4 controllers do come with a USB cable.
Ok, so this is the one I'm looking at...
https://www.amazon.com/DualShock-Wireless-Controller-PlayStation-Black-4/dp/B01LWVX2RG/ref=sr_1_2?s=videogames&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542269275&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=dualshock%2B4&amp;th=1
The questions & answers section seems to indicate it doesn't come with a cord. So my plain old phone cable would work?(Galaxy S4, normal micro USB cable)
And if I wanted to go bluetooth, something like this would work?
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Receiver-Transfer-Wireless-Keyboard/dp/B0775YF36R/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542269774&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=usb+bluetooth+dongle
I do prefer wired for most things anyway, but just making sure I understand my options.
>Keep in mind that you do want a decently specced PC to do this though.
I assume you mean for PSNow? Actually, unless I'm gravely misunderstanding something, you can run this with pretty low specs as long as you have fast internet with low latency. Almost all the game/graphic processing is done on the other end because it's streamed. Also, I've tried it myself on the free trial and it runs beautifully and my rig is getting rather old(Phenon II, HD7770).
EDIT: Do you happen to know about the touchpad/gyro stuff working on PC?
Don't know if they have it in the UK but something like this should do. It's what I got and has no problem.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0775YF36R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_clV-Bb6K7YA7F
Hello /r/MrBaseball77 , I am not the op but I also bought a USB bluetooth for my earbuds, which, just like the op, I wanted to use for my Laptop.
However, it does not receive my earbuds at all. Have I bought the wrong one?
https://www.amazon.com/Shure-PGA27-LC-Large-Diaphragm-Side-Address-Shock-Mount/dp/B00TTQLKVY/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=shure+pg&amp;qid=1557771370&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-6
This is the one I use and I swear by it.
It handles high input easilymeaning it doesn’t distort when you yell.
And it has a low sound floor to reduce background noise.
As for pop filters any will do. there are plenty of opinions and all of them are realistically cheap.
And you might want to pick up a Rhode desk boom arm.
And also maybe an XLR to usb preamp like the blu icicle
For headphones I recommend Skullcandy crusher headphones.
https://www.amazon.com/Skullcandy-Bluetooth-Headphone-Microphone-Adjustable/dp/B01DWH77GC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=skullcandy+crusher&amp;qid=1557771728&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
They are Bluetooth if you ever want that and they can be directly wired to your pc when you want that.
They have zero latency even with being untethered.
If you get these headphones you might want to grab a Bluetooth dongle if your pc doesn’t have built in Bluetooth.
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Receiver-Transfer-Wireless-Keyboard/dp/B0775YF36R/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=bluetooth+dongle&amp;qid=1557771778&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
Easy answer: No.
Technical answer: Yes, but you'll have to find the schematics for the module, figure out what pin does what, and then pin it out so you could mate it to a USB header. The amount of time and work required to do something like this could easily be offset by buying a USB Bluetooth adapter.
https://smile.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Receiver-Transfer-Wireless-Keyboard/dp/B0775YF36R/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549325224&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=bluetooth+dongle
I use this one, it's half the price of the one linked above and works fine.
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Receiver-Transfer-Wireless-Keyboard/dp/B0775YF36R?keywords=usb+bluetooth&amp;qid=1537594919&amp;sr=8-5&amp;ref=sr_1_5
You also have the option to buy a usb Bluetooth adapter that works on Win7.
ZEXMTE Bluetooth USB Adapter CSR 4.0 USB Dongle Bluetooth Receiver Transfer Wireless Adapter for Laptop PC Support Windows 10/8/7/Vista/XP,Mouse and Keyboard,Headset https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0775YF36R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_q-9ADbMVW25YB
This isn't compatible with my windows 7 sadly but I found one that works with it
will this one work?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0775YF36R/ref=psdc_3015437011_t2_B004LNXO28
it's just a little USB dongle
https://www.amazon.com/ZEXMTE-Bluetooth-Receiver-Transfer-Wireless/dp/B0775YF36R/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1C328O99OY4F8&amp;keywords=bluetooth+usb+dongle&amp;qid=1571570291&amp;sprefix=bluetooth+usb%2Caps%2C165&amp;sr=8-7
$7
Bluetooth USB Adapter CSR 4.0 USB Dongle Bluetooth Receiver Transfer Wireless Adapter for Laptop PC Support Windows 10/8/7/Vista/XP,Mouse and Keyboard,Headset https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0775YF36R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TEqcBbN83X5CB
I have two of these on different systems right now with no issue. Suggested it to 2 other friends who are also using it - 4 out of 4 working is a good record, and it's only $7
The one you posted should be fine. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0775YF36R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I was also looking to use a NUC as a Hackintosh (to replace a Mac Mini). I ended up using an HP 8300 USDT. But I did see that almost all NUCs have Intel Wifi cards that are soldered to the board. I started to use USB wifi for my HP 8300 but then got a $20 refubished AC1200 Wifi Extender (at a MicroCenter store) with an ethernet port and now I use that. The USB wifi did work but it was unstable with sleep/wake. Now my connection is faster and very stable. The USB bluetooth I got was a $7 CSR 4.0 dongle and it's working great - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0775YF36R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So - if you're still working on Wifi and Bluetooth for your NUC, I would recommend a wifi extender with ethernet and a cheap CSR 4.0 bluetooth dongle.
I'll give it a try, thanks
P.s. Bought a Bluetooth USB dongle, problem solved.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0775YF36R/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I use this one and it works fine, everything as expected - though there might be better options.
I got this one and its working fine so far.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0775YF36R/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This one works, at least in my limited testing. Everything connected up immediately. I have only tested the "stable version" not the "updated version". Not sure what the difference is. Just so happened to be the one I had sitting in a drawer.
I have this one. I didn't do any research or anything, but it said "Amazon's choice" which seemed reassuring. It's worked well for me out of the box, with no configuration or fiddling necessary. There are probably better ones, but it works well enough that I haven't had any reason to comparison shop.
Hey, sorry for just stepping in but the little USB bluetooth receiver you linked makes Airdrop work? if it does, then that means AirDrop only needs bluetooth and nothing else, right? it doesnt need wifi?
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Anyway, did you end up buying anything else to have full continuity, Airdrop, handoff, etc?
AFAIK, Hotspot refers to WiFi, so you would need a WiFi adapter. I found an inexpensive one on Amazon. The faster the adapter the more expensive. You can also go Bluetooth. The ones I found that work with XP were https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0775YF36R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 and https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 edit>grammar
I bought a bluetooth USB adapter so I can listen to music from my work pc without tying up my phone or using my data.
Yes, there are two versions of the Xbox One controller. One works with bluetooth, one does not.
https://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-on-windows/accessories/connect-and-troubleshoot-xbox-one-bluetooth-issues-windows-10
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Im just using this cheap Bluetooth dongle
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0775YF36R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use this switch:
Linksys 16-Port Business Desktop Gigabit PoE+ Switch (LGS116P) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GECC11O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4avHybKEXXE7S
And have 9 POE cameras. The above switch only has 8 POE ports so either a full 16 port POE switch or adding some of these would work:
TP-Link Gigabit Ethernet PoE Injector Adapter (TL-PoE150S) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tcvHybQM8F5XQ
I use those injectors too and they work great.
Don't have a recommendation for a pre-built server bc I built my own to spec. Disk space, Memory, and a good CPU will do for this type of set up.
So I cant use something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I?th=1
I looked at the Hikvision-DS-2CD2032 and it is a great picture and the price doesn't hurt my wallet. When I looked it up at amazon it suggested that I also get these
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Gigabit-Injector-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=pd_bxgy_p_text_y
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SF1008P-100Mbps-8-Port-802-3af/dp/B003CFATT2/ref=pd_bxgy_p_text_z
since im thinking of getting 3 cameras do I need them?
Get yourself this, but remember only certain devices can be powered with POE, make sure what you're powering is one of those. https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-Compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?adgrpid=55223477679&amp;hvadid=274679589486&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvlocphy=9008163&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvpos=1t1&amp;hvqmt=e&amp;hvrand=11296999524037889642&amp;hvtargid=kwd-297006276719&amp;hydadcr=20137_9346292&amp;keywords=poe+adapter&amp;qid=1565434708&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
Assuming your switches there are not POE capable, you'll either need a power supply for the phone or a POE injector, something like this
Hi, if not a PCI slot, maybe ISA? If you really want to gwt this working you might unplug the sound card (however, being this old, maybe it only comes with an Internal speaker?)
For ISA devices there's:
-NE2000
Once you managed to get an Ethernet Card working, than the Job is done. At this point if you had a raspberry you would use it as Wifi to Ethernet Bridge adapter or simply buy a Bridge Adapter like this. In this way you'd be able to fast-connect to any wfi network with DOS (I do so)
Otherwise you can Remote-Band connect to your telephone line using a RJ-11 port, through a dial-up modem
You will need a dial-up ISP account, an analogue phone, a dial-up Modem and a RJ-11 cable...all oh which are not so obvious these days(.....this reminds of my childhood spent hacking with a 28 Kb/s connection)
If you got everything, then you'll may want to give a look to this page to start understanding how to dial-up connection works in MS-DOS
If no one of these is viable/bearable, then there's Spider_Gilgamesh' solution, using a USB to Serial adapter and configuring again Rpi to act as modem. I think it's theoretically correct don't see why it shouldn't work, so why do not you ask him whether he's put that solution in practice for real or not? and maybe ask for a walkthrough ;)
TP-Link TL-POE150S, which is $18 on Amazon. They list a splitter there for cheaper; That pulls power out of a PoE drop for non-PoE devices like Raspberry Pis, so it won't be useful for you.
That module is running passive 802.3af, which is standard vanilla 15.4w Power over Ethernet. My rather crufty old 3550 PoE switch will power my 3502E APs, which is the same power output, so I don't doubt this will power your 3502I just fine.
I certainly may just go the route of running a long cord and using the 3M products. What about:
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-GS105PE-Pass-through-GS105PE-10000S/dp/B00J8NAWZ8?ie=UTF8&amp;*Version*=1&amp;*entries*=0
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Gigabit-Injector-Adapter-TL-PoE150S/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464783035&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=poe+injector
Injectors are pretty cheap
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I
I would take him up on his offer, not necessarily his advice. Get a used computer and just purchase needed poe injector:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Injector-Adapter/dp/B001PS9E5I/
Yeah, I thought this was for eeros, but the comment would be the same for cameras.
Something like this.
Yes,
If that access point does not use an AC power adapter, then you will need a Power-over-Ethernet Injector which adds DC power to the cable to power the device.
This is because your router does not have PoE from what i briefly skimmed. If it does, disregard that ish.
Said device: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_X.o1CbVJEVEEV
Posted from Android.
If you can afford it, go for the Ubiquiti Switch 8. I personally hate having tons wires and plugs filling up power strips.
https://www.ubnt.com/unifi-switching/unifi-switch-8/
Otherwise, if your wanting to keep it really cheap a PoE injector will work. I wouldn't go for that ebay one, instead go for a more reputable company that has a good warranty. TPLink has one for a few bucks more but has a 3 year warranty. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Injector-TL-PoE150S/dp/B001PS9E5I
Note after reading thread I use use these - https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-Compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I
:)
OP........... Just no.
A couple of points:
Cat5e should be plenty fast for home use.
Like the other guy said, you really need to get power here and a switch. If you want to do it right, you could terminate all the wiring into a patch panel, then attach those ports to your switch. That gives you a nice setup to centralize network equipment.
Examples:
Patch: https://www.amazon.com/Dshot12-Cat5e-network-Mount-Surface/dp/B00NTWK8VW/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=patch+panel&amp;qid=1572791966&amp;sprefix=Patch+&amp;sr=8-8
Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-SG1008D-Unmanaged-Gigabit-Network/dp/B001EVGIYG/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=8+port+gigabit+switch&amp;qid=1572792046&amp;sprefix=8+po&amp;sr=8-6
Edit:
Thinking more, if you absolutely can't get power in there you could probably do a PoE (power over ethernet) powered switch here, with a PoE power injector on another line.
Something like this in the closet: https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16833122614
Then the port on there for power would need to lead to something like this in another room: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-Compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=poe+injector&amp;qid=1572793212&amp;sprefix=poe+i&amp;sr=8-3
Here is a post I found about what you're trying to do. Apparently it shouldn't ruin anything, but it may or may not work.
I'd say your best option would be to pick up something like this. As long as it's 802.3af or 802.3at compliant it will work with the AP.
If the patch panel you have says anything about 802.3af/at then it should be able to be used.
Just get some actual PoE equipment. You can get a nice Netgear switch that does PoE for only $65. This would be a good choice if you think you might have more PoE devices in the future.
An cheaper solution would be to get a PoE injector.
There are a number of active PoE dongles out there, too that would work with the Pi, as far as powering it.
Another option on the Pi end is a HAT specifically designed for this purpose.
Depending on which way you go, it looks like you could do it as cheaply as $30.
I would recommend against what the other commenter has suggested, though. PoE standards are designed with Cat5/5e/6 cabling in mind and should include some over-current and over-voltage protection to prevent overloading the wires in the cable, which are meant only for low voltage and current. If you were to accidentally short something or have an electrical fault with a homebrew system, you'd run the risk of starting a fire, and given that a homebrew setup that was properly done wouldn't end up being all that much less expensive (after buying adapters and plugs and power adapters and such), it's better to go with a professionally made solution. It's unlikely that you'd have an issue, but better to play it safe than sorry. Besides, the purpose-built equipment is likely to give you fewer headaches over time.
Something like this for the POE Injector should work.
Then something comparable to this would work for the battery backup. The higher the VA the longer the runtime.
Just get a PoE injector & connect that to your router & device needing PoE
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Gigabit-Injector-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I
Or get a gigabit switch with PoE ports if you need > 1, and link the switch to your router
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SG1008P-8-Port-Giagbit-802-3af/dp/B00BP0SSAS
I think staying with 6 is fine. Most people will say if you are wiring now to go with 6a because the cost is similar but I find it is thicker and harder to bend. If you really want to future proof then you could go with 6a but right know 10Gbps is a little excessive.
AP wise you call Ubiquity expensive but the newest UAP-AC-PRO is the same price as the Linksys and will be much better, it is hard to find now because of limited supply. Sorry Its actually $20 more
I would spend a little extra for the Edgerouter Lite over the X but they are similar.
Unless I missed it I don't think you mentioned how many wall jacks you will have. So I will assume 24 drops. A good 24 port non POE switch is This normally $160 is on sale for $100
And This for POE only 8 ports though
EDIT
Sorry didn't release the netgear switch wasn't all POE you might be better off with a cheap 8-10 Port switch and POE Injectors
Like /u/topcat5 said you can get UAP-AC-LITE for $90.
>Will each line on the network require PoE or just the ones feeding the Aps?
Just the ones feeding the APs. The APs use PoE exclusively.
PoE stands for "Power over Ethernet", which is just like it sounds. Devices need to support PoE for the switch to send power over the Ethernet connection.
You can connect a non-PoE device to a PoE port and that would work fine, no worry you'll "fry" anything by doing that. But PoE devices need PoE ports, unless you want to use the provided injector (more below).
>
>Along those lines, a few of my LAN runs have small switches I used to feed other hard points. Rather than one powered switch for the network can i use individual/ PoEs for each AP?
You can indeed use what's called a "PoE Injector" to power each AP individually .
The ceiling APs (the ones that look like flying saucers - The nanoHD, Pro, and Lite models) come with this Injector free!
However, the In-Walls do not come with a PoE Injector. You'd have to buy one for each separately. The In- Walls use a PoE standard known as "802.3af", and you want to make sure the Injector you buy also supports gigabit speeds (some are only 10/100, make sure you dont buy these).
Here is one that would work:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-Compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=poe+injector+af&amp;qid=1574915029&amp;sr=8-3
If you go with all Injectors, you don't need to buy the PoE switch at all
>I'm guessing you need the extra power to amplify the wifi signal. Does it work that way?
No, it's not "extra power to amplifi", it really is just simply powering the APs for regular use. There is no other way to power them; they do not have a "power plug".
Be sure to watch a few YouTube videos on how to set up the Ubiquiti gear you choose before you buy. Make sure you are comfortable with the technical skill you need to administer them. It's a step up from your basic home router setup.
TP-LinkTL-POE150S POE Injector (Black) https://www.amazon.in/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l84OCbX671W85
Is this the same thing?
I have a bunch of Amcrest cameras. I honestly have zero familiarity with the protocols/standrds you are referencing.
I have 3 different types of POE Injectors that I use on my network, for various reasons.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRO4M73/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GECC11O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PS9E5I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
They all work with no issues.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Router-450Mbps-TL-WR940N/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483947253&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=router&amp;th=1
Router number 2 just went down permanently so I panicked and ordered two of these with one day shipping.
TP-LINK TL-WR940N Wireless N300 Home Router, 300Mpbs, 3 External Antennas, IP QoS, WPS Button https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_XSwZtb1J4SY6H595
What do you think?
This is super helpful. Would you dissuade me from pairing the CM500V with a budget router like this? TP-Link Router
I don't think our plan is for more than 100Mbps
Yes, although for the same price you could get something better that's a full router with better coverage and bandwidth like this.
EDIT: here is the same router on amazon for the same price.
If you want to use the full Ultimate 200 service speed, you will need one of the devices from this list that say they are 300Mpbs compatible.
https://www.timewarnercable.com/content/dam/residential/pdfs/support/internet/twc-compatible-modems.pdf
I've personally had really good luck with the Netgear CM500 modem. It's $89.99 at the Office Max @ Perimeter Parkway.
You will need a wifi router too, but I'm not sure what your budget is...the options are endless there. A lower end solid budget unit that will utilize your speed is the N450 (NOT N300): https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Router-300Mbps-TL-WR841N/dp/B003Y5RYNY
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=2945MB5S7X2JC&amp;coliid=I2A4ZV52OX4JIR
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-PA4010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00A0VBPLM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474360675&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=powerline%2Badapter&amp;th=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/NETGEAR-EX2700-100UKS-Range-Extender-Booster/dp/B00NIUHAG6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474361769&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=wifi+extender
A few options I'm looking at, need it PS4 specific though.
You can get gigabit switches and routers for cheap. Here's a 16 port switch for $70. A router with wifi for $29. However, if I was buying a house that was advertised as pre-wired, I wouldn't expect or want someone else's network gear to be there.
When I sold my last house, we had ethernet in a few rooms and the inspectors that came in didn't make a note of it one way or the other.
Buy a shitty router that has WDS bridging such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N450-Wi-Fi-Router-TL-WR940N/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=tp+link+router&amp;qid=1562035850&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-7
Just this cheap one on amazon, has worked perfectly!!
TP-Link N450 Wireless Wi-Fi Router, Up to 450Mbps (TL-WR940N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MnNZAbPSGVGJN
Thanks a lot for your replies.
Would buying this https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N450-Wi-Fi-Router-TL-WR940N/dp/B003Y5RYNY work? It seems like it acts both as a switch and as an access point.
u/Bugs212
Ah I see. The ONT is the box that they installed in my home, right? That's in my basement (I think), so does that mean I would need to hook up an ethernet cable from that to my router? There's an ethernet port on the same coax outlet where the coaxial cable that connects to my current rented verizon cable is. Could that possibly also be connected to the ONT too? I guess only way to find out is to try it right? xD
Also, if you don't mind me asking (sorry for all the questions), assuming I have that the ONT stuff all set, I currently have this TP-LINK router that I was recommended by a friend. Would it be better to get this adpater or would this cheaper one work just as fine?
TP-Link N450 Wi-Fi Router - Wireless Internet Router for Home(TL-WR940N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_v29RBb20HPPS3
Since you’re not looking for speed or features, something like this should do just fine. You can just go on amazon and type in wireless router and lookin for the cheapest one from a reputable brand with good reviews. That’s all I did to find the one I linked.
I really appreciate your reply. So, you're saying that if I bought a WiFi router, powered it up, and connected my Pi through ethernet cable, I could then connect to the router (and thus to my Pi) with my phone's WiFi?
I have never set up a home network (with or without internet access), so to be clear, is this the type of router I would need? I am not going to buy that exact router, but I am talking about the correct component, right? I might try to find an old router lying around if that's the case!
I thought you needed a router/modem combo? That device you linked to is only a router.
Here is a cheaper router/modem: https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SBG6400-DOCSIS-Router/dp/B00WJOV23O/
If you do in fact only need a router, here is a dirt cheap one: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Router-450Mbps-TL-WR940N/dp/B003Y5RYNY
Oh damn, that's actually rather annoying.
Well, unfortunately I'm out of options other than saying a new router is probably your only option, can probably find a better one but I found one for 30$ on Amazon.
Hope someone provides a better solution than myself.
https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6141-RB-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B00OMDZAV0/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1538714118&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=sb6141&psc=1
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N450-Wi-Fi-Router-TL-WR940N/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=pd_bxgy_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003Y5RYNY&pd_rd_r=12c1fbb5-c858-11e8-9abb-7d2cd28fbd32&pd_rd_w=B3NVq&pd_rd_wg=hixrV&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3f9889ac-6c45-46e8-b515-3af650557207&pf_rd_r=RMSV9JQNBEK2AXMWGW91&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=RMSV9JQNBEK2AXMWGW91
&#x200B;
This is what I was running before I upgraded, the router is really up to you and how much you want to spend. If you aren't pushing too much bandwidth just get something cheap, There is a Asus router everyone loves that goes on sale at Tmobile every once in a while that you can flash with a custom firmware that makes it act like the next higher model, I just can't remember the name of it.
I know Roku has updates, maybe that could be the issue. But as far as any router updates, the fastest way to go is buy a new one and hook it up to your existing comcast service and set the roku up. I just got this one for my mom this weekend (has comcast as well), and just bought a roku stick, and set it up all by herself. I just picked the router. Here's a link to the one I picked out (very cheap and great quality).
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WR940N-Wireless-External-Antennas/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458579142&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=tp+link+router
Sorry for the late reply, here is the Modem. I can't remember the one they gave me, I do know I had to return at least 2 of them over the course of 2/3 years (tech support requested that I return them). The thing to do is to go HERE and pick one that is more than your max speed that you are paying for (please note that the modem I linked before is actually rated 3.4x what they have on their site, which I think is a screw up on their chart). Basically, as long your modem's Mbps is higher than the speed your paying for, you're good. It's also a good idea to have some extra to grow into. I would shy away from the wifi modems. I prefer to handle all wifi access via a router (a Wi-Fi modem is just another security hole and you should always have a router just for troubleshooting and it's an extra security layer). Also, here is the ROUTER I paired with the aforementioned modem. They've worked pretty much flawlessly for over a year and it costs about $80-$90 for both. You can certainly find more robust systems, but this is a really good value in my opinion.
Ubiquiti nanobeam ac gen2. Around $100/per, and you only need 2 + any basic router - if we wanna stay with cheap, a TP-Link WR940N is fantastic for a single-band router @ $30, and TP-Link has similarly great cost-v-performance products all across the price range.
Set them up as a wireless bridge - obstructions CAN bring problems so maybe put em on pole a little bit to the side of the buildings to get past the one in between?
Then run a router off the far end.
Total cost ~$250
Like your apartment community said, the ethernet jack in the wall will provide you with your internet signal all you need is a router to redistribute it to your devices like the one linked below.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=twister_B01MR29ULB?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
If you're still looking, I've bought a TP-Link TL-WR1043ND a while ago (I have rev V1, this is V2) and it supports everything. I've been playing around with it extensively (subnetting, SSH server, USB NAS, virtual WLAN interfaces, bridging, multiple DHCP servers, boosting WLAN transmission, troubleshooting with WLAN interferences from other routers etc.) and I haven't had any issues with the hardware at all.
If anything, if you got access to a ethernet cable then just get yourself a cheap router and make your own WiFi for your room/dorm.
Otherwise, this one works with the Switch
I'm going to buy this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Router-450Mbps-TL-WR940N/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501689967&amp;sr=1-9&amp;keywords=tp+link
I've been talking with people outside the internet that had the same problems and when they connected this to their router, it solved their issue.
What's funny is that my wifi signal is always full, but I've read that the icon can be misleading.
you can spend as low as $20
The router is a TP-Link TL-WR940N.
Here is the exact link for it
Example router
Example modem
I got these 2 (for about 70 bucks)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010Q29YF8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Y5RYNY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I'd also recommend that you use an ethernet cable on your main computer, if you want to get full speeds. In my complex due to signal noise and such I get 66% of my full speeds over Wi-Fi.
Already bought this modem and router from Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Y5RYNY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XC6GJ0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
It just depends on your particular bandwidth situation. I've got 200 Mbps up and down so the above linked hardware works for me (although I wouldn't recommend less than 8 channel modems even if you don't need that yet, you probably will soon).
The wifi router recommended by amazon on the modem's product page looks decent and cheap (although it only supports up to wireless n and not ac, which may or may not be a big deal for you):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003Y5RYNY/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=Q3GKYA2RHNZDH6DKJMZQ
Solid N Router for 22 Bucks.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003Y5RYNY/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I had a rig do that so I switched to a wifi extended router:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Y5RYNY
That one is one click to make it an extender, has more ports for other rigs/stuff than the AC plug ones some are recommending, is available as a router or switch should you need that in the future, and is cheap.
hell, i bought a TP-Link N router after owning a DIR-601N for years, it was a 40$ router but even still, my wireless speeds have quadrupled, and running speedtest on my 25mbps DSL line i'd get jitter of +/- 5mbps one room away and test at ~21mbps maximum and now, in the basement three rooms away it keeps a solid 24.5, while I pull down 24.8 over cat5. And this router ran me about 30 bucks on amazon.
I used to drop connection whenever I was using multiple high-bandwidth applications, the router's chipset couldn't handle it all and my entire network would go down for a few minutes, but i haven't run into any issues since, I can throw streaming, P2P, and gaming at it simultaneously with no significant latency issues.
It's by no means a top of the line router, but even at the same entry-level price point of my original hardware just the advances in technology have put a huge gap in performance for the same investment.
Yes.
This reddit post is pretty helpful.
http://www.reddit.com/r/3DS/comments/1k0g58/setting_up_a_streetpass_relay_at_home
personally I got this from amazon ( it was $20 few weeks ago..)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Y5RYNY
And I deploy openwrt on it.
http://wiki.openwrt.org/toh/start
Honestly anything that is wifi N and has external antennas suffice but even the latter is not necessary. This is a great router. With that said if you have money to spend might as well get a router with wifi AC.
Oh ok so I found 2 routers that catch my eye. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003Y5RYNY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526526556&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=qos+router&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31Lsvoeu8RL&amp;ref=plSrch. This one is more expensive and it looks like bandwidth control will work. The cheaper onehttps://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A128S24/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1526526556&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=qos+router idk if this one is any good thoughts?
Do you mean SB6580?
Is the modem getting an IP from Comcast? If so, can you ping the IP from some other device on the Internet?
Why do you need the modem to be reachable? The only reason I can think of would be remote admin, which is a bad idea. I would suspect if you have a device in a DMZ, then the modem becomes transparent at layer 3.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040IUI46/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Drzstb1XJ75SB
Once again, I am going to recommend that you get a modem and router separate, as the modem/router combos aren't always reliable.
It's a 802.11n router as well, not connected to any other equipment. I'll give you a link to its Amazon page in case there's anything else you'd like to know about it. I am poorly informed when it comes to wireless functionality and maximizing its performance as allowed by one's ISP, so any basic advice about that would be appreciated as well, whether or not it is pertinent to this streaming issue.
They have a new model that is more expensive, but this is what I have and what I recommended to my neighbor, which he has no complaints. It is a modem/router combo. Works really well with my 60 down 10 up internet.
https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SBG6580-DOCSIS-Router/dp/B0040IUI46
No, they probably weren't lying, maybe, but more likely just have no idea what they're talking about. Here's a modem that would work for you just fine. No idea on the quality of it, just the first one I came across. Here's one that's capable of up to 686Mbps even.
If you're paying the rental fee, try to get the SB6141 and if you're ever considering upgrading to 200/20, get the SB6183.
If you already purchased your modem, upgrade to either of those two, or get this one: http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SURFboard-SBG6580-Packaging-570763-006-00/dp/B0040IUI46/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415819423&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=motorola+wifi+cable+modem
If you want a decent modem + WIFI.
I strongly recommend this one
https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SBG6580-DOCSIS-Router/dp/B0040IUI46
If you go on ebay you can find used ones for $20
http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SURFboard-SBG6580-Packaging-570763-006-00/dp/B0040IUI46
If you go to Best Buy, make sure you price match with Amazon... save a couple of bucks... http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SURFboard-SBG6580-Packaging-570763-006-00/dp/B0040IUI46/
Worry not, your laptop and current devices will all work if you upgrade to an N router. Even if your laptop isn't compatible with N wifi (it should be, but you can always check the model # in google/the manufacturer's site for the specifications), N routers are backwards compatible for older devices on G or B wifi modes.
To expand on some other points below; yes, you can purchase a modem/router combo instead; they work fine enough, though in general, for best performance, its recommended to keep the devices separate. If you want to save that $5.99/mo modem lease fee from TWC, you can buy your own cable modem (or modem/router). And don't be concerned about them turning on a public wifi hotspot on their leased equipment, at least for the time being - that's only a Comcast thing, not TWC (though of course, if/when the two merge next year, that will quite possibly change).
Yes, keep your PS3 wired directly - and for that matter, any other devices that you CAN connect with ethernet, you should. They will perform much better, and your devices on wifi will perform a little better as well the less crowded your home wifi is. Yes, try to keep your wifi router away from your PS3 (the bluetooth signal from the controllers could possibly cause some interference on 2.4ghz wifi), any cordless phone stations, baby monitors, for god's sake keep it away from your microwave....okay, you get the idea, lots of interference, the list goes on and on. Good luck buddy, happy networking.
That's what is plugged to the one my cables company gave me just the power and the other cable that I don't remember what is called http://imgur.com/i6guNHY
http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SURFboard-SBG6580-Packaging-570763-006-00/dp/B0040IUI46#
Will this one work?
http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SURFboard-Gateway-SBG6580-Wireless/dp/B0040IUI46/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1384978619&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=motorola+cable+modem+and+wireless+router#
Well I am connected to my android box through Wifi, but if you're using your phone you would be on wifi too so I'm not sure what the reason is. I have this router and I saw an improvement when I switched it to 5Ghz frequency, but there's still a slight lag. It's not huge, but in games where you need split second reactions, it hasn't been perfect. Do you have a high end router?
If that is is the real reason why people complain about Comcast then I'm totally behind that. I do find it rather sad that our country is ranked so low when it comes to our price/speed ratio.
I do know that once I convinced my co-workers to upgrade their hardware all of their connections bumped from around 6Mbps to 45+Mbps.
So I'm just missing out on why people are complaining for other reasons. I don't have cable TV either, so I just deal with internet so I guess I can't be the one to judge Comcast too much.
Here is the wifi card I upgraded to and here is the gateway that I got so I could get rid of my rental from Comcast.
Don't get me wrong though, I'd love to see some competition and technology advancements in internet providers around here!
Unless you already have a separate modem, it's probably a combination router. A lot of them are like this (scroll down a bit and it shows the back) where it's both. In that case, you'll need one like it OR you'll need a separate modem and router.
If you only end up needing a router because you have a separate modem, this is the router I have and it's been great. Installed DD-WRT and you get a lot of NAT/QoS options.
If you need a modem/router combo, I recommend the one I linked above even though it's a little pricier. This one also has decent reviews.
I have had mediacom service at 3 houses now. 3 things to learn
Source: I tried all different combos of modems before.
you can buy a router/modem combo for ~90-120 depending on sale prices. I got this one for about 90 some time around black friday.
I personally have this Motorola Surfboard SBG6580, I replaced the crappy one that Comcast gave me with it and it works great. A plus is that you get $10 off because you don't need to rent their crap.
I used the comcast router for a little while because I had their phone service so a word of advice, if you have comcast as your home telephone provider, look for one with the phone connection. I moved to Ooma recently so that also saved me a bunch of money.
Thanks for the detailed response. I am looking into Ooma, apparently there's a good price on Amazon. I was researching modem/routers a few weeks back, but several people advised against getting a combo unit. Do you have any recommendations? I was looking at this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SURFboard-SBG6580-Packaging-570763-006-00/dp/B0040IUI46/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420304347&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=comcast+compatible+gateway
I am paying $30 a month for cell phone, 1200 minutes, 1200 texts, 500 mb data, which more than meets my needs. With Republic Wireless, I think I'd have to buy a new phone?
Time Warner gave me this modem:
http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SURFboard-Gateway-SBG6580-Wireless/dp/B0040IUI46
I was under the impression this was about as good as modems get.
I always get the speeds I'm supposed to, 50/5.
this modem would be the closest thing to comcast's top of the line cable modem/router gateway. the only thing it doesn't do is phone service.
top of the line model is either the SMC D3GNV or the Arris TG862G
I would recommend GIGABYTE Model GC-WB867D-I. I've been using it for almost 5 months now and it has performed so much better than this cheap usb wifi adapter I had for a short time. On the Gigabyte, downloading on 5 GHz, it will be at a constant 30 to 35 Mbps. Whereas on the usb adapter, downloading on 2.4 GHz, it would constantly bounce from 30 Mbps to 5 Mbps. Really annoying when playing online with the ping jumping from 45 ms to 500 ms. My router probably plays a roll in this, but ill be switiching to a AC router soon.
Back to the Gigabyte, the wifi chipset is the Intel AC 7260 that supports 2.4 Ghz and 5 Ghz and Bluetooth 4.0. The 7260 a mini pcie, which fits in a laptop. You can buy just the Intel AC 7260 itself, but for a couple dollars extra, you get a black mini pcie to pcie adapter of you want to use it on a desktop.
Basically, you need a modem and a wireless router. They sell all-in-ones nowadays like this one from Motorola http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040IUI46/ref=oh_o02_s00_i00_details (which I own and recommend). Then you just plug in your cable feed to the back and with a little configuring, you're good to go.
What does this mean?
Also, since this doesn't create a wifi network, what would you suggest I do to get that? The Motorola modem/wifi combo unit is $125 on Amazon right now which seems a little steep.
Basically any modem/wifi router combo is not as good as 2 individual devices (1 modem and 1 router). As I said above you can configure the modem to be a modem only and use a router for routing/wifi duties and youll probably have much better luck. In fact if you look at the second 1 star review on amazon of this unit youll see the same advice Ive given to you with more detail instructions.
http://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B0040IUI46/ref=acr_dpx_hist_1?ie=UTF8&amp;filterBy=addOneStar&amp;showViewpoints=0
However, If this is a new modem and you cant use it as a combo device anyhow I would say you should return this item and instead go with this arris/motorola SB 6141 modem. Its about $40 cheaper and there area number of OK routers for that price if your old netgear isnt performing as good as youd like.
Out of curiousity what make/model is your old netgear modem?
also, If you need help selecting a newer router feel free to ask.
I have [The Motorola SURFboard SBG6580] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040IUI46/), and TWC is my provider. It supports up to 343/131Mbps. We have a TV with a PS3, XBox360, Wii, and Roku 3 attached to it, as well as a couple of laptops, 2+ android tablets, 2 ipads and 2 smartphones and it seems to handle the load pretty well.
Damn. I am running directly into the modem, so not using wireless. This is my modem.
Looks like my Monday afternoon might involve calling Cable One :(
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $179.99
Motherboard | ASRock Z97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $69.99
Memory | Team Vulcan 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $68.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $50.40 @ Amazon
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX 770 2GB DirectCU II Video Card | $319.99 @ Amazon
Case | Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $64.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $89.99 @ NCIX US
Keyboard | Logitech G105 Wired Gaming Keyboard | $38.95 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $943.28
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-07-25 21:05 EDT-0400 |
The price of the CPU and motherboard is from a combo discount you get when you buy them together in-store at microcenter. Prices may change slightly at the start of next month but you can just check the microcenter website for that.
I don't have a wifi adapter included in the build, but this tp-link is the one I have and I haven't had a problem in 6 months of use.
Edit: And actually, because you aren't overclocking, you could get this motherboard instead which is 49.99 with the combo discount.
I have one of those, works great on my rpi, on newer linux kernels, not so much.
Plus, range is an issue with those nano chips. This one is king on the pc of a few relatives. And the usb cord is long enough it wont be in the way
If powerline wont work, get a usb (or PCI-e) one that has an antennae, like this one so that you get the most stable connection.
I can't speak for that one, but I use this one at home and have no issues at all.
Depending on your location, one of these could help a lot if you're streaming.
TP-LINK Wireless N300 High Gain USB Adapter, Support Windows/Linux/Mac OS, Plug and play (TL-WN822N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_D8tFxbM1JWSHG
Mini is just the size, no worries, it still is a normal GTX 1060 6GB in a smaller body. As far as the keyboard is concerned, this year I got a Rapoo V700 mech keyboard, no illumination, but still a great one for just 25€. But still for 25€ is OK, for 50(~60€) I'd expect to get a lot more, not just some chinese illumination. Anyway, that's my opinion. I've used this adapter https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-WN822N-Wireless-Adapter-Version/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_33?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501163112&amp;sr=1-33&amp;keywords=wifi+tplink for a long time and has always worked great, also CSGO ran flawlessly, but as always for very competitive gaming wired is the best option, even if you invest hundreds of $$$ just for wifi.
BTW here are all the keyboards featured in PCPP https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/products/keyboard/#k=1&amp;sort=price&amp;page=1
I'd advise choosing one with Cherry Keys, the other ones are just cheaper chinese clones.
EDIT: Just found this: http://www.corsair.com/en-gb/strafe-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-brown-ch-9000500-na-refurbished It's a refurb, but comes directly from Corsair and has warranty.
I use a part that boosts the wi-fi signal to my computer. I may have mentioned it in a previous post, but this TP-Link can take me from barely one bar to full bars for signal strength. Extremely helpful. Pretty inexpensive for what it does for me. At one job I was getting nothing until I plugged it in.
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wireless-Adapter-Support-TL-WN822N/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_30?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459316296&amp;sr=1-30&amp;keywords=tp-link
It might help in your travels.
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN822N-Wireless-External-Antennas/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414888737&amp;sr=8-13&amp;keywords=wifi+usb
what do you think about this one?
I have a crash cart bag handy for random issues
Adapters:
And don't forget at least 1 tiny led flashlight :)
Purchase a high gain antenna?
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN722N-Wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B00416Q5KI?th=1
> I just hope our crappy wifi will at least let my farm
buy a wifi booster, that's what i did for my work's crappy wifi. i bought something like this https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN822N-Wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536365861&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=wifi+booster+tp+link off of amazon and it helped a lot to keep a steady connection and is pretty cheap at like 20 bucks.
The problem is that you got a nano adapters, they are the worst possible choice to make, something like this is a far better choice (I actually use this one myself, I get the SAME speeds as my directly connected pcs)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_mCrLub1ATZCKM
I currently use this and this as a wireless router. I also have a 100Mbp/s downstream connection, so I never really have a problem gaming on wireless, or streaming or torrenting from a computer using wifi. I rent so there's no way I can try to run wire throughout the house, and my houses electrical circuits are messed up as is, so I don't think trying a powerline connection would be the best.
Get this. I'm getting 5-15 ms with it. Fiber connection helps but it's still the best wireless adapter you can buy.
I would recommend an external USB adapter to replace it, or work alongside it. I had a TP-Link that worked nicely let me find it quickly.
Edit: Here it is: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN822N-Wireless-External-Antennas/dp/B00416Q5KI
looks good, the power supply is $50 after rebate btw. And you can get a wifi adapter like this one for $15 so you'll be under your max!
Been watching that same one for my build. Found a cheaper one on Amazon as well.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WBX9C6/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&amp;me=&amp;seller=
There's also this one, not sure what the difference is between the two though.
http://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN822N-Wireless-Adapter-Antennas/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=pd_cp_e_0
Generally, PCI-E is much faster of an interface. However, Wifi speeds don't go nearly as fast as even the maximum speed of USB 2.0. So, speed-wise, it doesn't matter.
The USB one will be good for futureproofing your computer in case you later get a router with AC and 5GHz support. It's also nice in that you'll be able to preposition it to different USB slots for better signal.
For PCI-E, I would recommend this TP-Link one instead of the Rosewill:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN881ND/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483091328&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=wireless+network+card&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_three_browse-bin%3A6011949011%2Cp_36%3A700-2500
It's from (in my opinion) a more reputable company; it seems like it's a current model from their website; and it's a buck cheaper and will probably ship faster. Otherwise pretty much the same as the Rosewill.
There is a third alternative I found:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N300-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN822N/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483092749&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=wireless+network+usb&amp;refinements=p_36%3A1253503011%2Cp_72%3A1248879011%2Cp_89%3ATP-Link
This would be especially great for if you know you get a bad signal between your router and computer. You can connect it via USB and then stick the device up high somewhere for maximum signal. If you have a place to put the device and don't currently have or have plans to get an AC or 5GHz router, this is what I would get.
I use this one
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Adapter-Support-TL-WN822N/dp/B00416Q5KI
I think its pretty good I rarely lag while online and my top download speed I have reached is 15MBs.
I have a TP-link N300 USB adapter that i am more than happy with http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN822N-Wireless-External-Antennas/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1374650369&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=tplink
Firstly, you may have heard of powerline before, this basically uses the powerline of your household to transfer data. You receive 2 adapters, one plugs near your router and the other near your PC and both just simply connect over Ethernet. Providing they're not plugged into sockets with power hungry appliances nearby they work like a charm.
Otherwise, I'd say that your unit could be broken. I'd suggest one of these:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-WN822N-300MBPS-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425221627&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wireless+adapter
or
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Edimax-EW-7811UN-150Mbps-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425221627&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=wireless+adapter
How about this one? The price is a lot lower so I assume the quality is too, but it has quite an antenna.
Or maybe a powerline? I don't know a lot about those and especially their price but I've heard they work well.
Didn't there use to be a daily build questions thread? I'm looking for a good but fairly cheap monitor and wifi adapter (max budget $240 for now)
Currently looking at these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00416Q5KI/
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=24-009-513
The wifi adapter should be long range since my connection to the router isn't the best and I'd like to try to use it for streaming to my Steam Link.
I don't need speakers on the monitor. I enjoy 60 FPS content but I'm not sure I notice anything over that so 60 or 75 Hz is probably ok.
Im using this got it a few months ago and its never dropped out or had any problems.
https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B00416Q5KI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
Have been using this for 1-2 months. catches signal from 10m away, thru 2 walls.
Good signal strength. Looks good and plugs into USB.
This was suggested:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00416Q5KI/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1450053914&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX118_SY170&amp;keywords=wireless+dongle&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=3104SMiaGyL&amp;ref=plSrch
And you're right, I just said what was suggested because I really don't understand what the differences/benefits are between the three.
How do I find out how good my house wiring is? Some pointers?
Thanks for the help so far. :) Do you think your suggestion would be good enough for competitive CS:GO or should I look at some way to use an Ethernet cable. (Which would be a lot of hard work, and I'd obviously rather not do)
TP-LINK TL-WN822N works very well
I'm wired all the way so I won't be too much help on the adapter, but that one looks fine.
This:
ASUS Dual-Band Wireless-N 600 Router (RT-N56U) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049YQVHE/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_8ki0tb06VBTXN15N
Is one of the best wireless routers you can get though. It is what I have at home and it is awesome.
Extremely, extremely poor suggestion for a multitude of reasons.
WRT54Gs use old technology and only support 802.11g. They won't have the range of something newer or better. The Wart hasn't been widely manufactured in quite awhile so they are aging and the caps on some of them are going. You can find a new router like an RT-N12 that is superior in every way to a WRT54G and can run Tomato Shibby for $40 USD.
Edit: As far as suggestions for something a little more heavy duty and closer to $100, look at the RT-N56.
I've had great luck with Asus.
http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-N-Router-RT-N56U/dp/B0049YQVHE
This is 70. Which should be less than your monthly plan. http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-N-Router-RT-N56U/dp/B0049YQVHE
At a much more reasonable price point for most people's gaming needs than what the others are posting below, I can recommend the ASUS RT56U.
Not a brand new model, but one of the best at its price-point a couple of years ago. Great range, very realiable and easy to set up.
ASUS Dual-Band Wireless-N 600 Router (RT-N56U) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049YQVHE/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_YBscub16B03ZG
I plugged it in and it's good to go. NAT open and it's fast can't recommend enough. I had strict NAT for years until I got this.
Coupon to take down to $39.99: EMCEKHE37
$20 Rebate form: http://images10.newegg.com/uploadfilesfornewegg/rebate/SH/ASUS19MirsJune1June3016mw55us.pdf
Good review on many websites:
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-reviews/31436-asus-rt-n56u-black-diamond-dual-band-gigabit-wireless-n-router-reviewed?showall=&amp;start=1
https://www.amazon.com/Asus-Dual-Band-Wireless-N600-Gigabit-RT-N56U/dp/B0049YQVHE
It's this Asus router
I would recommend this router. It has two USB ports that can be used for pretty much anything, and is light on your wallet for the quality you will get. I don't think there is any custom firmware for it though. I would also recommend running OpenElec on a PC similar to this. I have an ID41 running OpenElec which handles 1080p without any issues.
I love the Asus Routers I'm using this is solely a WiFi Access point right now and the range you get for the proce is pretty sweet! Asus n600 Gigabit
I would go with a hardware solution.
I have an Asus Black Diamond Router.
Here is my bandwidth monitor page. Apparently, I did 67.7 gigs of traffic in December. I'm actually surprised. Maybe I shouldn't be, 5 users. One is a netflix/youtube fiend.
What if I have this router, https://www.amazon.com/Asus-Dual-Band-Wireless-N600-Gigabit-RT-N56U/dp/B0049YQVHE, would it be a substantial speed increase? I haven't had much problems with this N56U. Maybe some signal issues from far corners.
The ASUS RT N66U is pretty spectacular.
If you can't budge that $2, the N56U is good too.
I've never tried the RT AC56U but if it's like the others then it'll be great and supports 802.11AC.
The N66U is much better than the N56U, so if you can go with that one over the cheaper version.
Is this an improvement over this? (Asus Dual-Band Wireless-N600 Gigabit Router (RT-N56U))
I've been getting connectivity issues from bedroom (2nd Floor) to living room (1st Floor)
(probably 50-60 feet to the bottom level.) Using a "smart" blu-ray player.
Decided on the Asus RT-N56U. Hoping it was a good bet. Way more expensive than my current Belkin thing! Thanks for the help you all.
Fun fact: it's shipping from Chattanooga.
Thanks!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049YQVHE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
SHoudl I get another one (AC) instead?
I purchased the Asus N600. Someone posted somewhere about it being great for streaming with chromecast and I was looking for something with 5G (my neighbors have way too many 2.4 g networks.) I got it used (probably a return) from warehouse deals with the 20% for $25.... https://smile.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0049YQVHE/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=all
That's a little more than I'd be willing to spend. What about this guy? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049YQVHE/ref=pd_aw_sbs_3?pi=SS115&amp;simLd=1
That was the cheapest Asus I could find with gigabit ports on my phone.
I'm assuming that "tomato shibby" is a firmware, but I don't want to get into that really.
I went with this.
Question for you since I don't know much about networking.
I currently use ARRIS SURFboard SB6141 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem and Asus Dual-Band Wireless-N600 Gigabit Router. Would something like this help at all? I'm currently in a smallish two bedroom in an apartment complex. My internet is currently bad. Just wondered if there was any upgrades worth making.
Yeah I wanted something like that too!
This is the closest solution that doesn't need to be plugged into the wall it's just usb for power Ethernet for data but the Netgear works better for me!
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6
Yes, they have devices specifically for this. Here's one from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6
If your device has a USB port though, it might be easier to use a usb wifi adapter like another comment said. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DKDAUAS
USB is extremely common and meant for external peripherals, so it only makes sense that most wifi adapters use a USB port.
There are adapters that use an ethernet port, however. For example: https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6
Alternatively, if size isn't an issue, any WiFi access point set in "client mode" will essentially do the same thing.
Finally, the latest RPi comes with onboard WiFi, completely eliminating the problem.
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511726997&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=wifi+to+ethernet+adapter
Thanks. So, my Blu-Ray player doesn't have wifi, now that's not that big of an issue, I usually just unplug the HDMI cable and hook up my laptop. Granted, I could also just get an Ethernet cable, but I don't know if I want to mess with contacting the college to set up a physical connection (it's probably not actually that hard and I could always get something like [this thing from amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6), but whatever, I'm getting off topic). Anyway, my main question is about headphones. I would need something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Cyelee-Optical-Splitter-Converter--Include/dp/B01D1680O2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466101106&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor&amp;psc=1) as well as an additional HDMI cable to do what I was asking, correct? I just want to be sure, I bought the adapter without really looking into it and I want to be sure before buying anything else. So, to be absolutely clear, I would connect and HDMI cable from my Blu-Ray or computer to the stereo, use my adapter with the RCA output, and use a second HDMI cable to hook up to my TV, which I mute. I'm pretty sure I got it, I just like to make sure, I apologize for being redundant, but I am very thankful for your answer.
You could use something like this or use an old spare router with wifi.
You can use a wireless bridge, I've used them multiple times with standalone wired only devices to great success.
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6
Hope this helps!
Does your TV have the option of adding a wifi stick of some sort?
If not, you can get one of these things. It connects to the WiFi & lets you hook an ethernet device up to the other side.
It's an EyeDro.
http://eyedro.com/home-electricity-monitors/
Basically, you install it in your load panel and then it gives you an estimate of how much power you use. It's not 100% accurate, maybe 95% or so (?), but it's good enough.
Don't get the wireless version, instead get the basic one and a wireless extender like this which is cheaper (although now you have two devices to plug in).
I now also have an Ecobee3 thermostat which has awesome reports, much better than my old Nest.
The router should have one or more Ethernet ports on it. If only one, connect a switch to the router and then run an Ethernet cable to your room. But that's messy. If the router and your computer has wifi, use that. If the router doesn't have wifi, get a wifi access point and connect it to the router with Ethernet. If your computer doesn't have wifi, either add a wifi card if you have a free PCI slot (something like this), or use an Ethernet to Wifi adapter (something like this).
Note the products I'm linking are just examples I found with a quick search, I don't know if there are better/cheaper ones out there and I don't have any personal experience with these particular products.
http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6
This? It takes a LAN Cable and sends the signal as wifi.
You just need a wireless bridge. It connects to your WiFi network and allows you to connect wired devices.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487095682&amp;sr=1-9&amp;keywords=wireless+bridge
You could look to see if your wireless router has a bridge mode, and if not perhaps you could install third party firmware like DD-WRT or Tomato that would give you that feature.
You can get one of these adapters. Plug the Ethernet cable to the adapter and ST hub. Join the adapter to your wireless hotspot.
I have one similar to this plugged into my audio receiver and it works perfectly.
No this will not work in any way shape or form. The Ethernet jack on the camera is expecting an Ethernet signal your usb wireless adapter will out put a USB signal. You will be putting a USB signal into a device expecting an Ethernet signal. These are options that will get you what you need Wireless Bridge or Power Line Ethernet
There are wifi ethernet adapters out there: https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6
You're going to need to power the wifi/ap in the garage with PoE. So theoretically you can use the power outlet with an injector and run the cable from the adapter through the injector and onto the AP in the garage. Honestly not sure how well this will work, but it theoretically should.
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https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6
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We use these at work, they give pretty good signal
Is it possible to connect the mixer to the wireless?
If not natively, with something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6
In principle, a PCIe WiFi card is your best bet, and if you have the money, I highly recommend that.
In practice, you can use a dongle or an ethernet adapter (these are a lot less common than they used to be, since everything including your socks has a usb port on it these days).
However, like many people here, I'm going to suggest that you stick to cables if at all practical.
i have no idea if these work well, but it has to be better than usb.
Advance warning: I don't think this is best solved with a Pi, so this is how I'd suggest addressing the problem, rather than the question.
If possible, I'd be inclined to try for #1, but I think either should apply.
As for how to do it with a Pi, you should be able to put the Pi beside the machine and connect wirelessly, plug the machine into the Pi's ethernet, and then set up a 'bridge' to share the connection. I've never done it with a Pi specifically, but back in the day it was very easy to set up on Ubuntu on a netbook.
This is exactly what you are asking for.
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496247910&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wifi+ethernet+adapter
Incase anyone is interested - I got it to work! I started off buying this: https://www.amazon.com/Apple-MK0W2AM-Lightning-Camera-Adapter/dp/B01F7KJDIM/ which allows you to charge the phone and power the USB to Ethernet Adapter. Unfortunately, this only seems to work with newer versions of iOS (it says "Device is not supported" when I plug it into my iOS 9.1 devices).
I had to buy this one: https://www.amazon.com/Lightning-to-USB-Camera-Adapter/dp/B014VGHG0U/
The Apple USB to Ethernet Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Apple-USB-Ethernet-Adapter-MC704LL/dp/B00W7W9FK0
And also buy a powered USB hub (any one should I work, but this one is powered by microusb so I can plug it into a car charger): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0192LPK5M/
Lastly, I had to buy an Ethernet to Wi-Fi Adapter (I bought this one, again because it is USB powered - any one should work though): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UAKCS6/
So the extremely complicated solution is to have my iPhone 6S Jailbroken on iOS 9.1 connected over wireless CarPlay (uses Wi-Fi Direct) - so to get Internet data, I have the iPhone Lightning to USB Adapter connected to Anker USB Hub which is plugged into a car charger and the Apple USB Ethernet Adapter, then over Ethernet to the IOGear Wi-Fi Adapter. The IOGear Wi-Fi Adapter is configured to connect to my iPhone 6S Plus's HotSpot.
The bad thing with this is I cannot charge the Jailbroken 6S while I do this (I bought a lightning splitter to see if this will allow me to charge).
If I was on iOS 10.2 Jailbroken, I could use the newer Apple Lightning USB Adapter which can charge the phone too and get rid of the Anker USB hub. Maybe 10.3.2 will get jailbroken soon! :)
If Apple allowed Bluetooth Tethering like they do with iPads and iPod Touches, I could have simply tethered one iPhone to the other, but for whatever reason Apple doesn't allow that and there doesn't seem to be a tweak to fix this that I can find.
What about https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520207416&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=WNCE3001?
This setup is in the basement, where network cabling is impossible to get to without drilling through flooring and creating a huge mess. That's where the powerline adapters come in.
However, on my quest to research wireless bridges, I stumbled on this:
IOGEAR Universal Ethernet to Wi-Fi N Adapter for Home or Office, GWU627 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-DwYzbRWNHWN3
It claims to turn any wired device into a wireless device. Could I plug this into the WAN port on my router and bypass the Powerline completely? The wireless reception down there has never been too bad, currently I use it since the wired connection is so slow and so far it's pretty decent.
Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6
Are you running the game over the PS3's WiFi? If so, I would suggest you hook it up directly to your router. If you cannot do that and your router has wireless-N functionality, get an Ethernet to wireless-N adapter. I had really bad lag problems on my PS3 but they went away (for the most part aside from SE's screwups) when I got that adapter.
I assume this is for the Hue bridge since you're posting in the Hue subreddit. Something like this should work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kqpbBbTMC0JYK
Or, as others have suggested, get a network extender/wireless bridge with ethernet ports.
I'm not sure if it can do both. Although, an option you may be interested is you can get an the IOgear universal adapter. This will connect to the hotspot via wifi and allow you to connect via an ethernet port.
Here's what you need. This one is powered by USB but you can find ones powered by AC outlets. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004UAKCS6/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505772508&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=wireless+Ethernet+adapter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31QxwJoJabL&amp;ref=plSrch
Is there any disadvantage or negative affects to having a USB splitter plugged into a usb port on your pc. In terms of power or that specific USB will it ruin it or wear it out etc? something like this(Below)?
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483577849&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+splitter
I just got my PlayStation classic last week so I'm new but catch on fast. Thank you again. This is the hub I'm using. Sabrent 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs (HB-UMLS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_Mw2iDb3PAE14R
Few more questions if you don't mind answering: Do I need two of these cables to connect my monitors to the interface?
And should I run my Axiom controller through the interface or just via USB?
And is it safe to connect the interface via a USB hub like this?
The cheapest and most generic one on Amazon at the time, here it is http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M Works great!
USB hubs plug into a USB port and give you say four new ports to plug into. Sort of a splitter. Using a 2.0 hub downgrades the connection so if you are having a weird conflict oy wpm't be the same sort of thing.
Having said that, it should work. The ATR has a lifetime limited warranty. Email their support and see what they say.
Here is an example USB hub.
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/
!
Try these. I'm about to upgrade to dual monitors.
USB to VGA adapter
powered USB hub
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=usb+hub&qid=1566270401&s=gateway&sr=8-5
Sabrent 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs (HB-UMLS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cIgExb45ZDCS3
Lol forgot the link
Yea, I just have a cheap Sabrent one that serves my purpose well enough since the vast majority of my USB ports are only USB2. If I buy another one down the line I'd probably invest a few more bucks for the Anker one so I don't have to worry about accidentally turning off the switch by bumping it.
constant unplugging and replugging the phones is very annoying. That's where this USB hub comes in handy.
You can just turn on the port for whichever phone needs to charge without ever needing to unplug the wires.
If you are a Canon shooter, for tethering i strongly recommend Kuuvik Capture.
Not sure if it can handle multiple cameras, but i have used it and Lightroom both to capture multiple angles, using a usb hub that could switch each USB on and off. I used [this](Sabrent 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub with... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWF5U0M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) one.
You can't turn off the wheel so the easiest solution might be using a USB hub with switches. Then you can just press the button to turn off the usb port and the wheel. Like this https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M
USB hub with switches for each port. (http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414497612&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+hub)
I have a backlit keyboard, and a usb fan on my desk, I use this to turn them on or off.
Try a USB2 hub.
I use something like this when I'm gaming. Super useful.
This is the one,
ww.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419616564&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+hub+switch
Actually, I just thought of something. You could give this a try if you want a physical button.
You would just have to turn off one of the USBs then turn the other one on.
Alternatively, you maybe able to get away without it by setting the default audio device to the TEAC headphone amp and then turning the amp off when you want to use the speakers. this way when you turn off the teac, it will default back to the speakers, but when you turn on the teac it'll recognize the headphone amp as the primary audio device.
This is all assuming you are using a windows computer. I'm not quite sure how the mac audio drivers work.
The reason I needed to use a usb dongle is because I am buying an air remote mouse(https://www.amazon.com/Aerb-Wireless-Keyboard-Multifunctional-3-Gsensor/dp/B00K768DHY/) and it has its own bluetooth dongle to work.
That is nice, I am also planning to do the same because I have Buffalo Snes USB controller. I am planning to install retroarch in it :)
So will a USB hub like this suffice?(https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/)
And also I have one last question. Is it normal to lag on 60fps videos on Youtube? I thought this box is strong enough to handle 4k 60 fps o.o
I use this Hub:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=pd_lpo_147_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=0XZMS084V62M2T68359E
And the keyboard i use is the AKAI MPKmini:
https://www.amazon.com/Akai-Professional-MPK-Mini-Controller/dp/B00IJ6QAO2/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480882934&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=akai+mpk+mini
Both work great for me.
Simple solution to this problem.
I have a Sony Wireless speaker system that has a transmitter that connects up to the PC thru USB. When I switched to Windows 10, I was bummed to find out that Sony's latest driver for the AirPC10T is Windows7. Although it works on Windows 10, just like the old joystick drivers, my PC won't sleep. THE SIMPLE SOLUTION I WENT WITH: I bought a Sabrent 4-Port Hub that has push buttons to turn on/off any individual port. For $7, it is hard to beat this solution: I now simply toggle off my USB transmitter port when I go to put the PC to sleep. Sure, I'd rather have Sony write a new driver, but their customer support made it clear they aren't going to do that. Here is the hub with toggles that I bought last month, and has been working great so far. http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00BWF5U0M - Decent reviews but I'm not entirely set on it.
Still think this is the best USB port out there for the price. Having a light switch is so convenient.
With those you are limited to remapping in mame/pi menu. But even with an ipac 2/4 you would still have to set the buttons up. I think your biggest concern is "what happens if i map encoder 1, and it's later recognized as encoder 2?" It would be. .. a pain in some situations to unplug and replug. My workaround was one of these :
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=pd_sbs_147_t_0/136-1115726-2818104?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00BWF5U0M&amp;pd_rd_r=309ad5d9-8905-4f67-b539-bade9fc09f1a&amp;pd_rd_w=X25Yb&amp;pd_rd_wg=0qo89&amp;pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&amp;pf_rd_r=8TXAKTGX7N5Q7G9Z882P&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=8TXAKTGX7N5Q7G9Z882P
In the very rare event during powerup my usb's get disorganized, i simply hit the four buttons off, and power on in sequence. Its happened twice in a year, but the lack of headache was worth 6 bucks (less probably through monoprice).
I found this and this
Are these good choices?
I suggest this and this
I bought the hub and it works great. First one I bought didn't.
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1427400654&amp;sr=1-1
Get a USB hub like this one. Since you are on an A+, a powered USB hub may be a better option, but either will work.
Cool! Thanks for the help.
One last question. Would this hub work well with Bitcoin miners?
Sabrent 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs (HB-UMLS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ECG.ub12MSXEF
The fans appear to be the same size, I really didn't look closely. The fan you found definitely looks easier to mount onto the back of a cabinet the only issue i see is the way you power the fan is usb. If you have a free usb port on each system/available in each cabinet then that could work. If you want to rig up something using one of the usb hubs I linked below with a few usb extension cords that can work. Another option is to buy a surge protector or outlet plug in that comes with a usb port to plug in your fan.
Edit: forgot the link..... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWF5U0M/ref=s9_simh_gw_p147_d0_i4?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=center-2&amp;pf_rd_r=1JH8R13VJQ9BM6NJZ0TQ&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=1688200382&amp;pf_rd_i=507846
Note all keyboard mouse combos use Esc for back. Need to use enter to select at main menu but sub menus the mouse select works
Mele f10
have to flip over for Esc/back button. Works good pretty accurate. Cue and rewind work in circle select area. Have to flip over and hit space bar to play/pause
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0092KDSQW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1407764634&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=SY200_QL40
Logitech K400. keyboard/touch pad my favorite but big. Home button works as home. Play/pause, cue and rewind keys work
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005DKZTMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1407764657&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=SX200_QL40
T2 Air Mouse - DO NOT BUY, performs terribly.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DIXSPA8/ref=mp_s_a_1_18?qid=1407765051&amp;amp;sr=8-18&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
Sabrent USB hub, works perfectly but bright LEDs
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BWF5U0M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1407766089&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=SY200_QL40
Logitech N5902, exceedingly akward IMHO. Worked great with HTPC but not good with FireTV. BTW do not buy at amazon if you think you may want one it is too expensive. If more than $30 you are paying too much. Once again not good for FireTV but good for HTPC.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005OTXLLC?pc_redir=1407493041&amp;robot_redir=1
I just ordered this hub. Hopefully it'll work out alright
Just tested this with my new Poker II
iPad Air
Poker II
Sabrent 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LED Only $7
This thing is great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWF5U0M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You would need to buy a 5V adapter for it though.
Here
which ones? Used these and this for my blue monitor ones but the consoles have color change strips from Ikea (this one).
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeMax-EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-Ethernet/dp/B00CPRVF5K
http://www.amazon.com/EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-512MB-Ethernet-Router/dp/B00CPRVF5K/
http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-UniFi-Enterprise-System/dp/B00D80J2XU/ref=pd_tcs_compl_pc_5?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0J3RYZF06MM0H25MVRW6
http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-TS-8-PRO-ToughSwitch-Advanced-Controllers/dp/B00CXU1NHY/ref=pd_tcs_compl_pc_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0J3RYZF06MM0H25MVRW6
Those three combined do the trick? Extreme wireless range/bandwidth, PoE for the machines I want direct access to regardless of status (I have battery backups), and then the edge router that can handle the vpn aspect?
Thanks for the response. Are you referring to this for the standalone? http://www.amazon.com/EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-512MB-Ethernet-Router/dp/B00CPRVF5K
and these? http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-UniFi-Enterprise-System/dp/B004XXMUCQ/ref=pd_bxgy_pc_img_y
Looks like I can wire a single Unifi AP to the router and extend range with a second. Wiring two at a distance from a router on a cable modem wouldn't be an option.
While we're suggesting routers to get... DD-WRT and Tomato have been viable options seemingly forever at this point, the crowd over in /r/homelab would recommend putting pfsense on a old computer, and my personal favorite is the Ubiquity EdgeRouter Lite (only $100).
Looking at the Ubiquiti ones cause I already have a WAP, three of these models caught my eye:
So far I may get one of the Lite's because the Edge X seems to cap out at 500 MBs
I knew we'd need something to manage QoS. Are you thinking along these lines? I'm sure I'd rely a bit on my outside techs to get it going.
Have you had any experience w/ VOI? Issues? Seems to me, with the last couple of phone providers I've had here "best effort" is about all we get no matter what line the calls are riding. In such a small firm (11 people) I don't want to have to manage the hardware, or access to it, on-site.
External resources are almost a non-issue, but yes, that's a good point to keep in mind. I think there's only one for me to remember.
With the low bandwidth requirements for voice I'm thinking cellular as a backup could at least let us get calls from the courthouse or whatever, and I could have everyone use their own cell phones for outgoing calls during an emergency until the main connection was back up.
You mean wireless access points. You don't use consumer wireless routers in a business unless you want laughable range, speeds, and respect levels.
Get Ubiquiti gear.
https://www.amazon.com/EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-512MB-Ethernet-Router/dp/B00CPRVF5K - The router.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512 - The access points.
Setup the controller software on a spare PC. You can easily enable and customize the captive portal.
This zywall should be able to do it- http://www.amazon.com/ZyXEL-Internet-Security-Firewall-Gigabit/dp/B0042W7CAI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416495985&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=zywall+20
This ERL should be able to do it, as well- http://www.amazon.com/EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-512MB-Ethernet-Router/dp/B00CPRVF5K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416496041&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ubiquiti+edge
0- WAN
1- LAN1
2- LAN2
Keep in mind, the ERL would need a firmware upgrade to be able to do this via the GUI, unless it is shipped with the latest firmware, not sure.
To get those routed packets flowing at sweet gigabit speed for cheap, check out Ubiquiti's Edge Router Lite. Running gig internet at gig speeds.
> ERL3 is hardwired only.
Interesting, I was going by this page that shows Wireless N. Thanks again for the tip and additional context around deployment scenarios. Much appreciated.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeMax-EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-Ethernet/dp/B00CPRVF5K
This was a simple cluster, not really designed for running a lot of VMs. We run 3 AD servers, a File Server, and one server for a special piece of software. That's a total of only 5 Windows 2008 R2 VMs, but you can see that it can handle much more.
>SAN $230: http://www.ebay.com/itm/RACKABLE-2U-SERVER-S5000PSL-2-x-INTEL-QUAD-CORE-L5420-2-5GHz-16GB-1TB-SATA-/121402377113?pt=COMP_EN_Servers&amp;hash=item1c44254399
x2 VM Server $1200: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-PowerEdge-C1100-CS24-TY-1U-2x-XEON-QC-L5520-2-26GHz-4xTRAYS-72GB-DDR3-/261355969100?pt=COMP_EN_Servers&amp;hash=item3cda079a4c
SSD $75: http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT128MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGD88/
x2 Boot Drives $206: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000DM001/dp/B005T3GRLY/
x2 Storage Drives $280: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-ST4000DM000-3-5-Inch-Internal/dp/B00B99JU4S/
x3 Batteries $300: http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000AVRLCD-Intelligent-1000VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000QZ3UG0/
Shelf $31: http://www.amazon.com/Odyssey-ARS2-Space-Shelf-Accessory/dp/B0002DV0GI/
Server Rack $281: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SR4POST25-Cabinet-Capacity/dp/B004OB8T72/
Microsoft Server 2008 R2 $695: http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Server-Standard-Packaging/dp/B00H09CF70/
x2 Microsoft Server CALs $298: http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Server-2012-OEM/dp/B0093CBTOM/
Switch $66: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DELL-POWERCONNECT-2716-USED-/251627465136?pt=US_Network_Switches&amp;hash=item3a962a69b0
Firewall $90: http://www.amazon.com/EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-512MB-Ethernet-Router/dp/B00CPRVF5K/
Rack Screws $27: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SRCAGENUTS-Enclosure-Hardware/dp/B001DW8J5C/
Drive Converter $15: http://www.amazon.com/Icy-Dock-EZConvert-2-5-Inch-Converter/dp/B002Z2QDNE/
That is the full setup from the rack down to the software licenses that runs 144GB RAM and 4TB usable drive space on ZFS with a 128GB SSD Read cache. It falls short of $4k. We use XenServer and OpenIndiana.
That's only two VM servers, but every VM the client needs can easily run on one in case of a failure. Just thought I would share this setup to show that it is feasible to price a VM cluster out at under 6k. This is not the cheapest build I've done, but definitely near it and much smaller than I would recommend for most people. It is actually smaller than I recommended for this client, but it is what it is.
I use an Ubiquiti Edgerouter Lite on my U-Verse connection to set up a VPN. It's not exactly easy though, but it works really well. If you've not tangled with VPNs before, they can be rather tricky. Here is the router I have set up: http://www.amazon.com/EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-512MB-Ethernet-Router/dp/B00CPRVF5K. Partial guide: http://wiki.ubnt.com/L2TP_Remote_Access_-_CLI_Commands.
Feel free to hit me up with any questions you have. After using DD-WRT and Tomato for years on consumer hardware, I finally switched to the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite and the UniFi APs and I haven't had the need to use anything else.
My lord, if you've got that many routers you're doing something wrong. Especially with the choices of brand names there... no offense.
Without details to your problem I cannot properly advise you on what to do (I'm a systems administrator by trade), but you (*very likely) only need ONE router, unless you have several incoming Internet connections.
Personally, I have this (though I have yet to set it up as I'm doing renovations)
I use one of these for WiFi, and thinking about getting a second. My place is pretty small but I kind of want one so I can get WiFi on the other side of my lot. Usually they're $65 but looks like the price just went up.
I have all my network cables terminated on a patch panel. I have this switch to connect everything to my network.
Other than the access point (because of the medium, 802.11) everything is gigabit.
Before this I was running on 100Mbit. On 100Mbit you should have 0 problems streaming 1080p, which typically require around 5 Mbit tops.
If you have questions for me I'm glad to answer.
A lot of clients won't ever be able to do this. Any device that does this will either require you to have the only 2.4 Ghz WiFi signal within range and enough spatial streams and/or channel width to support that throughput or it will require 5 Ghz clients with 802.11ac, enough spatial streams, and/or channel width to support that throughput.
That said, a Ubiquiti Unifi AP-AC Lite combined with a Ubiquiti Edgerouter Lite will get you as close as your clients will support.
As for a modem, Comcast's own recommendations are the best bet.
EdgeRouter Lite ERLite-3 512MB 3 Ethernet Ports Router https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CPRVF5K/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_w12fvb16HPYV7
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CPRVF5K/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_w12fvb16HPYV7
Great routers, but not for people who hate CLI. These routers can do a ton if you're willing to learn the command line. Seems to be a ton of user support and technical documentation out there too.
If you want a hardware router that is inexpensive but featureful, you may consider something like the EdgeRouter Lite
I have a Ubiquiti Edmax Lite. If your not an IT person it may be a bit much.
Ubiquiti EdgeMax EdgeRouter Lite ERLite-3 512MB Memory 3 Ethernet Ports Router https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CPRVF5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uaY7AbQ0HFJRK
Sure, here is a link to their dual wan setup guide.
EdgeMax is their line of routers, they all use the same OS, here is the link to the wiki.
And here is the Amazon link if you want to help me out with a small kickback :).
I have Verizon FIOS gigabit internet and I too had the same router you did and I had lag. I purchased the EdgeRouter Lite 3 port router and all my issues went away. Heres the link to the site https://www.ubnt.com/edgemax/edgerouter-lite/ Heres the link to the amazon page I ordered from https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CPRVF5K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 My setup is EdgeRouter 3> Netgear Gigabit Switch>(2) Google OnHubs one on either side of my house and this setup works well. All my other machines are hard wired to the Netgear Switch. If you do decide to get the EdgeRouter 3 make sure before you disconnect your old router that you release the DHCP lease and then unplug it right after that way when you plug the new router in it will pull a new DHCP lease.
Also I'm assuming your have Ethernet from the ONT? Hope this helps :)
I got one of these
A coworker purchased this extender just this week, and he is loving it.
if you haven't already and you are pretty desperate, i would try purchasing a wifi repeater, that may do the trick, heres a great one.
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WA850RE-Universal-One-button-Indicator/dp/B00E98O7GC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408334371&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wireless+internet+repeater
Something like this can connect to your wireless network and provide access then via the single Ethernet port. Connect that single port to a switch and voila.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wi-Fi-Range-Extender-TL-WA850RE/dp/B00E98O7GC
...I may have found something that actually would work.
This thing inside a weatherproof box would work well I think... maybe.
This is the one I have:
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wi-Fi-Range-Extender-TL-WA850RE/dp/B00E98O7GC?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
From what I understand, you're getting WiFi from the AT&T store and want to boost that signal Into the rest of your home?
I don't know if that's legal or not but you get WiFi Extenders that plug into your wall and Can be configured on its webpage to connect to a certain WiFi network and Repeat it. Perhaps this or something similar could help
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wi-Fi-Range-Extender-TL-WA850RE/dp/B00E98O7GC
Amazon has one for 27 bucks. No tax for many of us to.
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WA850RE-Universal-One-button-Indicator/dp/B00E98O7GC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1410786735&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wireless+extender
I would get a long Ethernet cable and place the router at the center of wherever that you a re living. That or you can use a range extender to provide proper coverage for your condo.
This extender
And this router
PM me if you have more questions.
By access point you mean you don't have an ethernet jack/connection? You really need a repeater then. http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WA850RE-Universal-One-button-Indicator/dp/B00E98O7GC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1409086524&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wifi+repeater
what would be best for gaming? using a Tp link signal extender with a ethernet port to connect my pc like this or a USB wifi adapter?
The shotgun solution to this is to buy a Wifi repeater. I've had good experience with the N300 and the AC1750. Plug it in close to where you need the Wifi access and configure it with your laptop to connect to your access point (AP). Right now, I am using the AC1750 to connect my desktop computer to an AP that is on the other side of my house.
The 2.4 Ghz range penetrates better through walls than the the 5 Ghz range but when you have a strong signal, the 5 Ghz range is usually faster (depending on equipment).
https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-TL-WA850RE-Universal-One-button-Indicator/dp/B00E98O7GC
^ This is what I have (You might want to look at US Amazon tho lol)
It works alright but I have to unplug and replug it almost everytime I put my switch in cause for some reason my connection will tank mid match if I don't
Are you joking?
Just by a "WiFi Ethernet repeater hotspot" it's a mini wifi router that turn Ethernet connection into WiFi, you can also set it up as a repeat of, hotspot, or personal wifi
https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&amp;ai=DChcSEwjs8d-Z4LPkAhXUFn0KHbqCD_cYABALGgJwdg&amp;ae=1&amp;sig=AOD64_3BOKFTmYoWk2oXcFXfDU5ZE3ONkg&amp;ctype=5&amp;q=&amp;ved=2ahUKEwjEtNaZ4LPkAhUhPn0KHQY0CK0Qwg96BAgKEAc&amp;adurl=https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-TL-WA850RE-Universal-One-button-Indicator/dp/B00E98O7GC/ref%3Dasc_df_B00E98O7GC/%3Ftag%3Dgooglemobshop-20%26linkCode%3Ddf0%26hvadid%3D293008414058%26hvpos%3D1o1%26hvnetw%3Dg%26hvrand%3D14635710018884184799%26hvpone%3D%26hvptwo%3D%26hvqmt%3D%26hvdev%3Dm%26hvdvcmdl%3D%26hvlocint%3D%26hvlocphy%3D9001313%26hvtargid%3Dpla-577714865712%26psc%3D1
A wireless extender like THIS would be wifi-to-wifi. A powerline adapter like THIS transfers network connection through electrical wiring between outlets.
This unit is like a hybrid that provides Wi-Fi at the exit, but connects the two units by electrical wiring.
So I just picked up the ps vita because of the remote play for my ps4. However I'm really disappointed as to the connection problems I'm having with my wifi. Never have I had an issue with my wifi connection on other devices (ps4, ps3, laptop, iPhone, iPad). Googled the issue and this apparently is a known problem. My wifi router is about 20 feet from my room through 2 walls. Is this a known problem with the vita itself or the newest update? Also does anyone know if a product like this would help with my wifi problems? http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WA850RE-Universal-Wireless-Extender/dp/B00E98O7GC/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Hello, I have a question about my router distance. I have 1 computer in the front room hooked up with an ethernet cable. but want to reach the back of the house, but the signal is poor. I have bought a TP-Link N300 Wi-Fi Range Extender (TL-WA850RE) to use the wifi to play Hulu tv but it gives out, or is usually a poor signal.
what would you recommend?
Try this, TP-LINK N300 Wi-Fi Range Extender (TL-WA850RE). It has a Ethernet outlet on the bottom, so plug in, attach cable and pretty much done. Cheap too, $20
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wi-Fi-Range-Extender-TL-WA850RE/dp/B00E98O7GC/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449966596&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=wifi+extender
A Wifi repeater is what you need.
Can anyone share a difference between these 2 wifi extenders. Is one better than the other or do they do the same thing?
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wi-Fi-Range-Extender-TL-WA850RE/dp/B00E98O7GC/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452289272&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=wifi+extender
http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wi-Fi-Extender-Essentials-EX2700/dp/B00L0YLRUW/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452289272&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=wifi+extender
TP-Link TL-WA850RE 300Mbps... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00E98O7GC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share have been using for about 2 months with only intermittent network interruptions. moderately satisfied.
I'm not sure about this one. I think they need to be on the same box so they can find each other, but if you don't mind returning them you can give it a try. You can try a wireless extender with an ethernet port, but at that point I would just buy a usb wireless card.
I use this one: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WA850RE-Universal-Wireless-Indicator/dp/B00E98O7GC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422634535&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=wifi+extender+with+ethernet
Congrats! I just picked up mine last night! So excited. Going to use this wifi adapter:
http://www.amazon.ca/TL-WA850RE-Universal-Extender-One-button-Indicator/dp/B00E98O7GC
This is what I am looking at. One of the Q&A says that it creates another ssid, but can name it the same as the original router and my devices will pick the strongest signal. Does that sound accurate.
This'll probably work a bit better than an rpi version. $30 and there's a $25 version too. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E98O7GC/
Give this shot:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E98O7GC?cache=e5130a6bc013a9d220ec7430ab213ad3&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;qid=1409632851&amp;sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1
It is a repeater, which extends your WiFi signal. This way, all you WiFi devices will work. Good luck!
I have my Bridge on the 1st floor of my house, but this has had a hard time reaching my speakers in the basement. So I bought a range extender for my wi-fi. Works great, and as a bonus other wi-fi devices work in my basement.
Doesn't it just make more sense to by a wi-fi extender for 1/3 the price of the Boost? Or am I missing something?
Looks like it's been a few weeks since this thread, but here's an update:
I hooked it up the way you suggested and it works great. The box they installed for the modem and all the wires is pretty small and there are only two outlets there so I took out the switch and just plugged four of the 6 ethernet cables directly into the router. Two of the rooms don't need internet at the current time anyway. Now my issue is that since the router is in the basement, the wifi isn't great on the main floor or even upstairs (which is two floors away). I bought one of those wifi range extenders that plug into the wall, and it works okay, but I'm thinking I might get better results by using a second router. I can get a second one that matches my first on Amazon for about $18 refurbished, which is about $10 less than I paid for that extender in the first place.
What's the difference between using a wireless access point and a second router? I know that the second router takes a bit of configuring, but it'd be worth it to also have a few extra wired ports there in the living room. That would be nice so that I can plug a gaming system or Roku box straight into it, and still have a lot of signal strength in the living room and upstairs.
not possible to run ethernet up stairs. Using Tp-Link for the AP http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E98O7GC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1. It is a wooden construction house not sure on sqft.
Price History
I installed one of these a few months ago and it has been perfect. For once, something actually set up as easily as it was advertised to. Plug in, press button on router and repeater, wait 30 seconds... everything just worked.
My house is pre-1890s, so the walls are thick, and there is a lot of stone/brick used in the construction and the old coal-burning furnace chimney is still in place (a massive brick chimney running from the basement 3 floors up and out the roof, directly in the center of the house, causing huge wifi holes in the coverage). It made the wireless coverage inside the house very poor. This thing did the trick and now I can get good signal even in the detached garage halfway across the yard.
You should probably start by working out whether the problem is the WiFi or the actual internet connection. While the connection down (but looks "up"), see if you can "surf" to your router's admin page using Safari. It's usually located here:
http://192.168.0.1
If that doesn't work, try 192.168.1.1 instead. If that doesn't work either, do this:
If you can connect to the router (i.e. you see some sort of login page, and the router's logo or whatnot) while the problem is happening, this is not a WiFi problem, but a problem with the router's internet connection. If this is the case, call your ISP and file an error report.
If you cannot connect to the router while the problem is happening, you need to start troubleshooting the WiFi. Try for example this checklist or something similar.
If you cannot get it to work properly, it may be easiest to just buy a different wireless access point, believe it or not (depending on your financial status of course). I'm very happy with my Unifi access point.
Good luck!
Edit: Better link
http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-AP-Unifi/dp/B00HXT8R2O/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462831791&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=ubiquiti
I did a bit of research and I think I'm going to purchase this instead of a repeater, so I don't lose as much speed. http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-AP-Unifi/dp/B00HXT8R2O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462551531&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Ubiquiti+ap+enterprise
And then use the antenna also. As long as I don't have issues hooking it up.
This is the one im using. An access point(AP) is connected to a router with a long internet cable and moved to a part of the house furthest away from the router, or where WiFi is most needed. It then mirrors/extends/broadcasts the same signal your router sends out effectively increasing your WiFi radius by alot.
An AP is also often called a WiFi extender.
You can pretty much skip the WifiAnalyser step. Just go to your routers admin page and set the 2.4gz channel to 1,6 or 11 and your golden.
Hope this helps.
Do you own the place you live? if so you could install access points like this that you could place around your house and have a more consistent blanket of WiFi.
It looks cool, but its too expensive. Looking to spend less than half that. Would this one do? http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-AP-Unifi/dp/B00HXT8R2O/ref=lp_1194486_1_10?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464919961&amp;sr=1-10
If it says AC-Lite then you're likely good.
This might pass for being similar BUT it doesn't support wireless-AC
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-AP-Unifi/dp/B00HXT8R2O
The PoE injector comes in the box for MOST retail units. If I bought a pack of 3 or 5 those packs usually do NOT come with injectors (but are usually cheaper on a per unit basis) as it's assumed it's going out in a large deployment where the deployer has proper PoE switches (which are better/more energy efficient, require fewer cords, etc.) and is likely placing 3-100 of these at a location and doing some hardcore planning.
something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-AP-Unifi/dp/B00HXT8R2O
how does setting up a user group work, i would ideally like the group to be just all connections
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-AP-Unifi/dp/B00HXT8R2O this one
Oh i was going to use the adapter for the access point. Not just the powerline adapter itself too connect the ethernet to my laptop. Thank you or the suggestion and link.
I would rather have an access point, that way wouldn't it be the exact same thing as connecting to my router in the basement? The only small issue is the roaming ability, where i can upstairs to downstairs and the wifi would switch to whatever is stronger and i wouldn't have to reload a youtube video. Honestly, thats not a big deal for us ( kids ). I'm in the basement on my desktop, its my 2 sisters that have a problem, and they stay upstairs.
This is the access point i had in mind
There is actually a perfect spot for this, its in the empty space that has the stairs. Smack in the middle between all the rooms upstairs. And it has an outlet on the bottom of the wall....
The only thing i have more questions about. is making it so i can go upstairs to downstairs and whichever is stronger would grab my laptop. Or being able to move around and it would seamlessly switch, and i wouldn't have to reload. And how come the access point can't be unified with my Verizon router downstairs? Since making it a repeater would slow it down....
Ubiquiti & a router. You can get all in one solutions that might fit the bill, but I'm more of a fan of leaving things open for upgrades in the future. If in the future a faster wifi standard comes out you can just swap the AP out. Router slows down, or you want a new feature that your current one doesn't have? Swap it.
A router like this us $52 ( £37), and a [Ubiquiti AP] (http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-Unifi-UAP/dp/B00HXT8R2O) is about the same.
As for the Ethernet cabling stuff, you can always get a cable that is premade for the length you need if you dont want to tackle making one on your own. If you do want to try to make one you can get cables without the ends on ebay, then a crimper and rj-45 connectors for cheap, and watch a youtube video on making a cable. Thankfully making an Ethernet cable isn't that hard.
To expand on this, if you get arp and the mac address, you can start sifting through l2 to find it:
show mac address-table address h.h.h
Should work even on routers, just fyi.
Find the final access port it's on, and just admin it down.
Just.... before you go shutting down ports, make absolutely sure you're following down a netgear mac address, and not something else. There's several mac lookup sites.
Edit: Oh, and get rid of the damn netgear wireless router "AP", and buy anything else, like heck, maybe even this
If you're willing to do a bit of reading and tinkering, give serious consideration to something like an Edgerouter with a separate AP. You'll get substantially better wireless performance, with the option to get a second AP and seamlessly bridge them.
These? https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-AP-Unifi/dp/B00HXT8R2O
> UAP
This?
Question: Why go for the USG vs an EdgeRouter?
We have more/less the same amount of devices on our networks and for anyone curious my setup was very similar but a little cheaper:
Modem: https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SB6121-DOCSIS-Non-Retail-Packaging/dp/B00768SBAU
EdgeRouter: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C/
APs: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-UAP-US/dp/B00HXT8R2O/
Switches: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-8-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Switch/dp/B00KFD0SYK
When I started I already had my modem but a lot of my equipment I bought used off eBay. Significantly cheaper.
okay I would get this then one as it is the cheapest here
They're badass. I just setup a few of these AP's and they have fantastic coverage + easy to manage. Super simple as well. The Unifi controller software is a lot less rough around the edges than Edgerouter GUI is too. Couple these with my Edgerouter X and it's been hassle free and feature rich for the price.
Ubiquiti makes awesome products. Check out the Unifi UAP. If your router is pretty old, the Unifi UAP might even have better reception overall.
I got the regular UAP for $68 on Amazon a week ago (its $63 right now). The range and performance has been amazing so far and I don't even have it mounted in its permanent location in the center of the house yet. It's just sitting next to a TV in the corner of my house right now. I'd buy one and see how well it works. You can always add another if more coverage is needed. These are made to be installed in clusters if needed.
http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-Unifi-UAP/dp/B00HXT8R2O/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0FA2FECZQYSHF3FF6TVK
Is this the same thing, but just a shorter range?
So pretty much if currently, my router covers half the house. If I were to get this and use it to cover the other half of the house, would it work out like that?
Oh that's cool I wasn't completely sure if you had to keep the controller running.
I have been looking at these two routers.
http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449531583&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=ubiquiti
http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Edgerouter-Router-ERLITE-3/dp/B00HXT8EKE/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449549072&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=ubiquiti+router
I do some large file transfers over the wired side of the network so I thought it may be worth it to get the second one listed. Also we have between 15-30+ devices connected at any time but probably most of them are idle.
These were the AP's that I was looking at
http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-Unifi-UAP/dp/B00HXT8R2O/ref=pd_sim_147_2?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=31DJWuaQDOL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=13TM14RQA56J7T55G2B1
http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-System-UAP-AC-LITE/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_10?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449550183&amp;sr=1-10&amp;keywords=ubiquiti+ap+dual+band
I would probably just do the Wireless N one but idk. Do you have any thoughts or recommendations on these?
Thanks really appreciate it!
A USG/Cloud key and a cheap UAP UAP on Amazon $58.44