(Part 3) Best computer accessories & peripherals according to redditors
We found 68,633 Reddit comments discussing the best computer accessories & peripherals. We ranked the 13,203 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
Great deal!
Another fantastic deal is the 200GB for $34.99. It's a good day to grab either.
And FYI, as soon as you get any microsd card, run it through h2testw to see if it's legit (if it's sold and shipped by amazon it most likely is the real deal), and then crystaldiskmark to test the speed. Make sure to use a usb 3.0 port and card reader.
How is this possible?! Do you game in the haunted mansion or the tower of terror? It’s like extra dust was added to your room for this.
I’m impressed.
Also buy this and thank me later:
XPOWER A-2 Airrow Pro Multi-Use Electric Computer Duster Dryer Air Pump Blower - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BI4UQK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_t7aLDb88HEHXC
It’s the better way.
Thanks for sharing
Exact one I bought:
Samsung 256GB 100MB/s (U3) MicroSDXC EVO Select Memory Card with Adapter (MB-ME256GA/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072HRDM55/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZeuwCb3PBV7R6
I'll validate the card in the morning. Curious to see if I've been scammed.
Pay extra for an electical PC cleaning blower.
This one has worked well for me so far?
No, most people use graphics tablets such as [wacom] (https://www.amazon.com/Wacom-CTL490DW-Digital-Drawing-Graphics/dp/B010LHRFM2/ref=pd_lpo_147_bs_t_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1BEZ8C92GSGQGFH551A3) or [huion] (https://www.amazon.com/Huion-Inches-Tablet-Graphics-Drawing/dp/B00DTPYWBG/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1472743112&sr=1-5&keywords=huion)
Seconded. 128GB for $20.99, 256 for $44.99, 512 for $99.99. There's no fucking reason not to.
Compressor was probably the wrong word. It was a power duster kind of like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BI4UQK0/
Saw a 64GB on Slickdeals the other day for $10. $20 seems to be the normal sale price these days for 64GB.
EDIT: Samsung 64GB 100MB/s microSD card is availabile currently for $11. That $35 number is way off.
needs to be sold by Store4PC and Fulfilled by Amazon, try this link (not a referral):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011M8YACM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A29Y8OP2GPR7PE&psc=1
This is my parts list from Amazon, I just googled Retro Pi installation guide and used one of the top results;
CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3
Samsung 32GB EVO (storage is entirely based on your budget and how much space you think you will need)
Raspberry Pi Case (lots of options)
Wired Controller (lots of options)
Card Reader (If your PC doesn't have one already)
Add in an HDMI cable if you don't have an extra laying around.
Terrible write speed though... 20MB? No thanks
Edit: This is a better deal IMO (100MB read and 60MB write): Link
Or, you could just do it the professional way, and not use compressed air that may also contain water.
Not who you asked, but I've had an APC BackUPS XS 1300 that I purhased in 2009. It's rated for 780w and a quick check shows that I'm using ~286w right now idling on my desktop and running my low power home server (i3, 6hdd, not much else). My PSU can do 1.2kw, but it just doesn't usually -idles around 200-300w for most work.
I used to use it to run my modem and wifi, but I moved to a 1Gb fiber provided that doesn't run UPS in my building network closets, so it's moot. They go down when the power does anyway. Now it just runs a monitor, server, and desktop. Server gets the USB connection to the UPS so it shuts down gracefully if needed.
I replaced the batteries once in 2013 for $30 and it's getting to be about time for another replacement here soon.
Since mine is older and discontinued now, I think you might want either the BR1300G or the BR1500G. If you get the latter you can get an external add on battery that triples battery life and doesn't require and ghetto car battery mods.
Extra plus with UPS - it has what's basically a built in kill-a-watt if you ever want to check wattage of your attached gear.
If you're looking on the budget end, these keyboards will all be on sale tomorrow:
The first 2 are pretty regularly posted on this sub. The 3rd is highly recommended on /r/MechanicalKeyboards as a good budget board (though the more expensive Gateron keys are preferred). I'm not familiar with the 4th, but it looks like it could be the same as a MechanicalEagle with a different badge.
Here is a link that finds all of those keyboards except the Qisan (#3), which is filed under "Electronics" and "Video Games > Accessories" rather than "Computers & Accessories". It should also keep populating in case more keyboards show up, since deals are only posted 24 hours in advance. You should be able to change the price range, but I don't remember seeing any mechanical keyboards for $50+. You can also "Watch" the deals from that link so you are notified when they go live.
Hope this helps, and good luck finding a board!
I started with just a few things and then listed everything I see... sorry for the spam
(these are all things I have, feel free to ask any Q's)
- Mini Fridge - https://www.amazon.com/Danby-DAR026A1BDD-3-Designer-Refrigerator-2-6-Cubic/dp/B00MO6V96W/ref=sr_1_8?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1519347546&sr=1-8&keywords=mini+fridge
- Cup - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUBR8UH/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Air Cleaner - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BI4UQK0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Good Chair Mat - https://www.amazon.com/Black-Chair-Mat-Rectanglular-ABS-RC-4655/dp/B00D83MURM/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_229_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CMJS2EM6STF7XCCJZGWZ&dpID=51%252BWDnIRG0L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail
- Big Boy Ergo Chair - https://www.ergoexperts.com/collections/ergonomic-chairs/products/office-master-iu79hd-24-7-intensive-use-heavy-duty-high-back-ergonomic-task-chair
- Camera Mount - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CMLX1O2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Space Heater - https://www.amazon.com/Lasko-Ceramic-Heater-Remote-Control/dp/B00PYDGN18/ref=sr_1_17?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1519348189&sr=1-17&keywords=lasko+space+heater
- LED Lights - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LX9Z3LH/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Foot Rest - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EN9W3UY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Wrist Rest - https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=node%3D510182&field-keywords=lasko+space+heater&rh=n%3A1055398%2Cn%3A3206324011%2Cn%3A9425950011%2Cn%3A510182%2Ck%3Alasko+space+heater
- Underdesk Headphone hanger - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P31BMHG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Trash Can - https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Commercial-295700GY-Wastebasket-Rectangular/dp/B079WPRXXS/ref=sr_1_26?ie=UTF8&qid=1519348333&sr=8-26&keywords=trash+can
- Cat Bed - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJRCQBW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Keyboard - https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2164
- Keycaps - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/PBT-Backlit-Keycaps-109-Keyset-Top-Printed-Cherry-MX-Key-Caps-For-Tenkeyless-87-104-108/32842167507.html?src=google&albslr=220105582&isdl=y&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&source=%7Bifdyn:dyn%7D%7Bifpla:pla%7D%7Bifdbm:DBM&albch=DID%7D&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=708-803-3821&isdl=y&albcp=653478879&albag=34653160498&slnk=&trgt=75384829977&plac=&crea=en32842167507&netw=g&device=c&mtctp=&gclid=CjwKCAiA8bnUBRA-EiwAc0hZk62T3uqIKPVAUNx-ATVUQIzI8kscvB4UdNBR5dMpZ46l1gp9aoD38BoCNXQQAvD_BwE
- Mouse - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JPOLLTK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Mouse Mat - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0745N6CMD/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Headphones - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R99S14/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
& https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008POFOHM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Dac/Amp - https://www.jdslabs.com/products/48/objective2-odac-combo-revb/
- Speakers - https://emotiva.com/products/airmotiv-6s
- Subwoofer - http://www.outlawaudio.com/products/m8.html
- Mic - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KCN83VI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Mic Interface - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012MIVUQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Boom Arm - https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1194415-REG/o_c_white_ulp_mb_proboom_ultima_lp_adjustable.html?sts=pi
- Web Cam Alternative - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G9EYN26/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Lens - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDGB94S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- PC Cam Interface - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4SM7H6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Lights Boxes - https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Digital-Photography-Fluorescent-AGG883/dp/B0091HO1FS/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519348726&sr=1-10&keywords=16%22+x+24%22++soft+box
- Light Box Stands & Clamp - https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1327281-REG/ultimate_support_17637_jamstands_fixed_length_boom.html
& https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010CYHW4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Light Bulbs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IB8O2VU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Element-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-Switch/dp/B01FXF7HFC
This one. I can only compare with CM Storm QuickFire Rapid, which I tried at store, and it's pretty decent.
Raspberry Pi 2 Model B
Supports CEC. Comes with 4x USB 2.0 slots, an HDMI, quad core ARM A7 processor, 1 GB RAM, and an ethernet port. Also has GPIO pins but I don't know of any Kodi related uses for them. It is an extremely low power device (uses about $3 worth of electricity per year) and requires nothing to keep it cool (e.g., no fans blaring in the middle of your favorite movie).
Base cost is $35. Requires a microSD card, an HDMI cable, and a microUSB charger, all of which can be purchased for approximately $5 each. An existing microUSB charger, such as from your cell phone or a device like a Kindle or Chromecast can be used, of course. Optional components include a case ($10-$20 or 3D print your own), USB wifi dongle ($10+), and an external hard drive ($50+). A few companies put out bundles that include a Raspberry Pi board and various components such as this basic one and this more complete one. A wireless keyboard ($20+) can also be handy. Product links are provided as examples; there may be better deals or smarter purchases to be had.
You'll then want to use a minimalistic Linux distro such as OpenELEC or OSMC, both of which are designed specifically to run Kodi and have optimized builds for a Raspberry Pi. OpenELEC seems to be more popular and is what I use myself. Installation is easy -- you just download and write to your SD card (oh yeah, you might need an SD card reader, $5). If you'd like you can also install a "real" Linux distro and install Kodi in that as you would on a regular desktop computer. You can either store your media on an external hard drive connected to the Raspberry Pi or on a separate computer or NAS and share your files over your LAN.
Pros:
Cons:
There are 256GB micro sd cards and they do not have to record at super high bitrates. This is not a problem that they should have. If these cams cannot record a whole shift then the taxpayer got ripped off which would not really surprise me.
It has a retractable USB cord. Amazon.com
That is indeed a model F. I think you could use a combination of any DIN5 to PS2 adapter with the bluecube adapter that Model M users swear by.
Amazing find, by the way.
agreed. Unless you're on a tight budget. Amazon has larger for barely more and are U3 for better speeds.
Here is a video that goes over current SD card specifications pretty well. I'll post what I got out of it and a little bit of additional research:
CAPACITY
There are three different types of SD cards that indicate a size range. SD cards are up to 2GB and are useless for our purposes. SDHC cards are from 4-32 GB and are ill-advised since 32GB isn't really enough. What we're interested in is SDXC cards which are from 64GB to 2TB. Each card has a micro version which is what we need. Capacity type doesn't have an impact on performance.
WRITE SPEED
There are two different families of speed classes that indicate a minimum write performance. The first, traditional speed class comes in Class 2, Class 4, Class 6, and Class 10. The number corresponds to their write speed, Class 2 is 2MB/s, class 10 is 10MB/s. This class is denoted by their number inside of a "C".
The other family of speed class is UHS. There are only two types, type 1 and type 3. These are denoted by their number inside of a "U" shaped symbol. UHS1 writes at 10MB/s, UHS3 writes at 30MB/s. That means the Class 10 and UHS1 have the same minimum write performance, but we're just going to look at UHS cards from now on. It is possible for a card to claim a UHS class speed, and a Class 10 speed.
Bus Interface
There are two different bus interfaces for UHS cards, UHS-I and UHS-II. These are denoted by roman numerals rather than our numbers. UHS-II cards have a second row of connection pins on the back of the card, while UHS-I just has the single row. UHS-II cards can transfer data faster than UHS-I cards when they are in a UHS-II compatible machine. If the machine is not UHS-II compatible then there is no benefit, however the UHS-II card will still work as it is backwards compatible. It does not look like the Nintendo Switch is UHS-III compatible, so there is no benefit to using a UHS-II card in it, which is a shame because the II interface can help read speeds tremendously.
So what is Nintendo recommending with OP's card? A microSDXC UHS3-I card. Meaning it is a micro version of a 64GB card, with the best write speed class, and the standard/worse Bus interface.
Nintendo-licensed Sandisk microSDXC 64GB UHS3-I for $19.99
Non licensed Sandisk microSDXC 64GB UHS3-I card for $23
/u/Nobody_is_lurking posted two contenders...
Sandisk microSDXC 64GB UHS1-I card for $14.25
Sandisk microSDXC 128GB UHS1-I card
for $23.25
...but it isn't actually an apples to apples comparison, as they are both UHS1 rather than UHS3. The $6 question is how big of a difference is there functionally between the two speed classes when actually being used by a Switch, which someone already took the time to test!
The results show that, when write speed was involved, the difference was significant, and that installed games can go by 3x faster using a UHS3 card. So sure, the UHS3 is a clear winner for installing, but what people really care about are load times, showed a less drastic story. Installing locally on the Switch beats any external storage options that we're looking at, then the UHS3 trailed shortly behind, with UHS1 following a little longer. For a regularly installed game the difference in load times doesn't seem to be more than a couple of seconds, even if the load time is a minute long. This guy also tested homebrew launched games though, which did show a much bigger difference between UHS1 and UHS3. So there is a difference in load time, but just not a massive one that many people would notice.
Looking at value, for whatever reason the Nintendo-licensed cards are currently cheaper than their equivalent nonlicensed cards, both the 64Gb and 128GB. Obviously the UHS-1 is cheaper than the UHS-3 across the board.
But if you want to branch away from Sandisk you can have the best of both worlds with a Samsung 64GB UHS3-I card for $15 The price per MB stays consistent at bigger sizes as well, so if you wanted a 128GB one it'd be $30.
tl;dr Buy this one. It is better and cheaper.
Amazon has a Samsung EVO Select MicroSDXC card for $20 here
I've dealt with corrupted data but have been able to recover my save each time after redownloading.
1) The day it happened - 3 times on 1/29 (day of 7.0 update and 2.0 patch) and once on 2/3
2) How many times it has happened. - 4 times total
3) What mode/character you were playing as.
1st time - Went to start classic mode with Piranha Plant and it crashed
2nd - As the game was booting up
3rd - After running a corruption test after redownloading
4th (5 days later) - while waiting in online quickplay lobby as Palutena. Had already played 10-15 matches
4) How much you completed in the game. (Classic Mode runs/Mob Smash runs/ Adventure Mode/ Spirits Collected/ specificity challenges completed/not completed etc.) - about 25% of classic runs, no mob smash runs, WoL 100% completed, about 800 spirits collected
5) If you own a physical or digital version. - Digital
6) In the case of the latter, if the game was saved to System Memory or an SD card. - So here's the weird part. It was installed on system memory since I've had the game installed pre-ordered. It reinstalled on my SD card for instances 2, 3, and 4 because I had plenty of space available and automatically installs there if there is space. After the final corruption instance this past Sunday, I made sure it installed to the system memory. Have had no issues since but have only played about an hour yesterday.
7) The model and storage size of the SD card in your Switch. - The rumored problematic Samsung EVO 256 GB one. I'm one of the comments you can see in the GameXPlain video of the reddit post. Link to the card: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072HRDM55/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZeuwCb3PBV7R6
8) Whether you have used more than one SD card for the system. - I used to have a smaller SanDisk Ultra 64 GB one but once I bought the 256 GB one I took everything off the smaller one and moved it to the larger one.
9) The space left on the SD card. - 144 GB
10) Whether or not you were subscribed to the online service. - Yes
Ran a corruption test of my copy of Smash yesterday and it came back clean. Played for about an hour with no issue. Will update this post if it happens again.
EDIT: I've also played Wargroove and Stardew Valley since the initial corrupt crash and both have had no issues.
https://www.amazon.com/XPOWER-Airrow-Multi-Use-Electric-Computer/dp/B01BI4UQK0/
E-Element z88. I’ve had it for about a year, it’s great. Not sure of the switches but I’m pretty sure they come in Outemu blues, reds or browns. Great keyboard for about 40 bucks. It comes with rgb so that’s a bonus, and on top of that you don’t have to solder to change the switches. You can find it here
No need to apologize. I certainly haven't owned every board out there, so the best I can do is take a look at reviews to feature set with you.
So first, let's decide some things.
Do you want a backlight? If so, does it need to be RGB?
What size board do you prefer? I would suggest going no lower than tenkeyless if you're using it at all for some professional work, only because it could temporarily slow down your work rate because some keys will be in different positions or missing entirely. This may take getting used to. If you're up for that, that's cool too. Full size boards have a numberpad, some are larger with "macro" keys. There are variations with fewer keys, that maybe don't have arrow keys etc. and are slightly smaller. Then there's tenkeyless, which has no numbpad, and then smaller variations often with no function keys or arrow keys, with their functions require key combos.
We've got a price range, and we're going for mechanical, but I'm wondering how much branding and brand names matter to you. There are some boards out there with big logos, and they can be ugly as sin, doesn't affect functionality, but cosmetics are worth considering on something you look at daily. Next, do you need a brand that's "famous?" It may be hard to find a RAZER, Corsair, CoolerMaster, or other big names in the industry under $40, depending on your required feature set.
Finally, that brings us to switch type. There's a lot of brands of switch style, and if I had to guess, you're probably gonna have trouble finding Cherry MX, the most iconic switch type, in this range. That said, some of the "copy" switches are nearly identical and have pretty solid build quality, differences only noticeable by the most sensitive of typists. So here's a quick break down of the most popular switch types:
Blue: Tactile Bump during actuation, can feel it and hear it(loudest switch, clicks on bump, clacks when the key "bottoms out" or is pressed all the way down)
Brown: Very light tactile bump(I don't really feel it if I've just been typing on my blue or Razer green switch board), makes a sound when bottoming out. This is considered the happy medium, somewhat silent, can be made very quiet with an accessory, still had tactile feedback.
Red: Silent, linear switches. Not whisper silent, but much quieter, no noise or tactile bump when the keypress is actuated. I really don't think you'll be able to snag a new board with these.
Black: Silent, almost exactly like reds, but require more force to press down, they're not too popular as people complain they make their fingers tired. However, I see them a lot under budget boards.
The Blue, Brown and Reds are the most common. There are more switches out there, and some brands use different colors to associate the style, but the styles are largely the same.
I'm gonna link(not affiliate links) some boards, just to show the styles and backlighting options off, these are mostly a bit out of your price range, but this should give you a general idea of what they look like, and how much extra things like RGB cost:
Pretty standard tenkeylessboard: https://www.amazon.com/TOMOKO-Water-Resistant-Mechanical-Keyboard-Non-Conflicting/dp/B01DBJTZU2/ref=sr_1_31?ie=UTF8&qid=1520206833&sr=8-31&keywords=rgb+mechanical+keyboard
A compact board, I believe it's a 75% variation: https://www.amazon.com/Element-Mechanical-Keyboard-Waterproof-Anti-Ghosting/dp/B01FXF7HFC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1520205858&sr=8-4&keywords=rgb+mechanical+keyboard
Tenkeyless RGB: https://www.amazon.com/Keyboard-Mechanical-Redragon-illuminated-ABS-Metal/dp/B019O9BLVY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1520205858&sr=8-5&keywords=rgb+mechanical+keyboard
Fullsize board, the standard: https://www.amazon.com/Element-Mechanical-Programmable-Waterproof-Anti-Ghosting/dp/B073QPDZHQ/ref=sr_1_45?ie=UTF8&qid=1520206906&sr=8-45&keywords=rgb+mechanical+keyboard
Now, these are mostly "cheap" brands, in that they're not ultra famous like RAZER, or Corsair, etc. But, these are some of the more highly rated boards. Of course, you absolutely do not have to buy from amazon either, and these are mostly out of the range, so please get back to me on the style and backlighting options you'd like. I think one of these "knock off" brands will be your best bet, particularly if you want backlighting. Other users are of course free to offer advice too.
Once you tell me, generally, the size, and switch type we're after, we can try to find some boards that are on sale, not just the stuff I quickly found that was relatively cheap and well reviewed. Sometimes you can get something that seems a decent price, for even less if you watch and wait. So that might be worth considering too.
Please let me know your preferences, and I hope my explanations were somewhat clear.
I've switched to Samsung without any issues. I have the same card in my phone, dashcam, and drone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XX29S9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fT.2CbJ23PGHR
i'm using this. http://www.amazon.com/FAVI-Entertainment-Wireless-Keyboard-TouchPad/dp/B003UE52ME
it's wireless with a tiny USB dongle that you plug into the Pi to receive the signal. it works well on raspbian and android as well, i really like it!
does it have to be strictly wired? is there a reason to avoid a wireless one? my guess is you're going to have less power draw with the wireless which to me seems like a bonus.
On break at work so i’ll make this quick. Most motherboards come standard with these but there are outliers. Looked these up quick just to give you an idea. The right angle side of the cable would plug into your drives and should help you keep away from bending your cables with the back panel. Hope this helped.
Data cables
Power cables
Edit: These are also good to use.
[This duster on Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BI4UQK0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) is $49 on sale from $65. I just got it and it works really well.
EDIT: It looks like it's this price everywhere. It has all the same attachments and also uses the same amount of power it looks like, but it doesn't say the CFM on the posted link. Also it has two speed settings, the lowest one is still more powerful then a can of dust off though so not sure if that's a deal breaker or not.
I would rather get the Samsung one on sale Samsung 256GB 100MB/s (U3) MicroSDXC EVO Select Memory Card with Full-Size Adapter (MB-ME256GA/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072HRDM55/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_o7h4DbTXQFPMV
Spend the extra $10 and get this instead: http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Mobile-Fan-External-Cooling/dp/B00080G0BK
Gives you speed control and USB power all in one. Just grab a spare usb to wall power adapter from your "old phones" drawer at home and you are a few magnets and a box away from having your stir plate completed.
I use this one and it could not have been easier.
Get an electric one. I'm topped out upgrade wise. Sometime in the fall when I go to clean my PC I am getting one of these XPOWER A-2 Airrow Pro Multi-Use Electric Computer Duster Dryer Air Pump Blower - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BI4UQK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CXZIzb95VH0TE
I've bought 2 from this exact seller and other than the plain brown box clearly labeled "Recertified", I couldn't tell that these were not new.
Mic is removable. Great for gaming with good audio quality from the mic but just OK for music (not super clean sound separation and tend to lean on the bass side).
For the price, damn good.
I think this is the same one on Amazon, here for your comparison and user reviews
The electric leaf blower doesn't come with head attachments for electronics. There are general purpose blowers that have enough head attachments that they can more efficiently function as an electronics cleaner and as a leaf blower. Xpower is just one example but there are many out there
I use a different one personally, seems to be mostly the same except cheaper and Prime, had it for a couple years now and haven't had any issues: XPOWER A-2 Airrow Pro Multi-Use Electric Computer Duster Dryer Air Pump Blower - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BI4UQK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bMkRDbJ2KDJ0P
I like the format a lot. It feels like TableTop but with more emphasis on "what's this game like" than on "let's be funny" (which I think is a good thing if I'm looking for a review or a game recommendation).
Really the only things I would suggest are production quality issues, such as the lighting while playing (the lighting during the interviews is great) and slightly echo-y audio. If she's looking for cheap lav mics, try these. We just bought some and they're pretty amazing for $2 mics.
Subscribed.
My brother vapes like a diesel truck with black smoke mod. His computer doesn't have garbage in it. Just blow the case out every 3 months or so with something like this. computers will be fine with vaping. tobacco is what puts that gross tacky brown film on everything with the smell. MY GOD smokers computers are the worst.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BI4UQK0
WARNING DO NOT USE VACUUM MACHINES it causes static electricity buildup. Blowing only..
A fast and easy option is get a sata power spliter. Just snip the last wire which disables the 3.3v pin and they work perfectly fine. It is what I did.
get one of these plug it into your computer copy your content from SD card to your desktop. Put the microSD card in the reader and copy the content from your desktop to the microSD card.
I am a fan of the AMD E-350 since that's what I have and it is powerful enough to drive 1080p videos without problem.
Here are a few options:
$279 Zotac Mini PC
$230 Zotac Barebones, Needs Ram, 2.5" drive, OS
[$282 Custom PC]
If you don't need Windows, that frees up a good chunk of money for a big HDD.
I just got a Thermaltake desk fan off of Amazon. I feel like it's a PCMasterrace badge of pride to have a case fan sitting on my work desk.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00080G0BK/ref=twister_B00VX30760
Okay, finally back at my computer. This is the one I recommend for PS/2. If you don't have a keyboard with PS/2 on the end of the wire, ask on this subreddit (or search the subreddit using the search box (or send a pic and send it to me)). If it isn't PS/2, it's likely 5 pin DIN or 9 pin DIN if it's larger. If it's the same size, it's whatever Sun Microsystems used in the 90s, which is like PS/2 but not, though I doubt you have that.
Send a pic or post one when you get it working (or now, so I can verify if you have the right connector)!
PS/2 is 275mA max. USB 1.0 is 500mA.
Most should work. This one on Amazon has a lot of comments saying that Model M keyboards work fine with it.
How the two people below can even conceivably think that there is a variation in stability and safety for electronic devices on a UPS is just unfounded knowledge.
YES OP. You can use a UPS such as this in your situation. Obviously the "safety" regarding your electronics varies on the actual UPS-model/make just like any other product.
A UPS is supposed to regulate your power, provide backup power in case of a power outage, and also act as a surge protector. READ what your UPS can do when you're buying it, they all have different level of protection and make sure to buy accordingly.
And to add a UPS is generally used as a back-up power supply so you have time to properly shut down your devices and unless you're buying an extremely high capacity UPS; you probably won't have much time to play for hours one end like a giant generator (Conceivably, again depends on the UPS) I.E. the ups would have to power both your console and tv to "run" and generally unless you have a LED tv, they eat up alot of watts = powers out quickly.
TLDR: Yes you can use a UPS with ANY ELECTRONIC DEVICE. But remember UPS is for temporary short-term backup power, don't expect it to power your stuff for hours on end.
One thing i'm certain about is that 500W is enough. Your graphic card needs power when doing tremendous amount of calculation like in a game, but doesn't need that much in order to start.
Do you have any way to get your GPU replaced ? If you can and the problem still appears, you'll know it's not GPU related.
Edit : if you often have power outages in your area, I strongly recommend you to buy a battery backup (a UPS, for "Uninterruptible Power Supply"), like this one. It will keep your PSU and the rest of your components safe.
whatever it takes. some computers have an SD card reader built-in. if yours does not, USB card readers are very inexpensive and widely available.
Just an FYI that cable may be a replacement for a modular power supply.
This may be more what you're looking for
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0086OGN9E/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1535523722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B003ZDNY02&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0NHBRPMN3PC3VKZQKPRK
Or this
http://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-SY-CAB40018-Molex-15-Pin/dp/B003AVN6D4/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=1-3&keywords=molex+to+sata
If you care about your disks or are using certain enterprise drives you should be using decent quality sata to sata splitters such as https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E
Some drives have issues if they don't have the extra 3.3v leg.
I bought a Kingston SATA 250GB SSD with a SATA to USB adapter. Works great.
SSD
Adapter
If you'd be willing to make the jump up to 60, then the HyperX Cloud headset is great for the money.
https://www.amazon.ca/Kingston-HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset/dp/B0153XL4V2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469915090&sr=8-1&keywords=hyperx+cloud
Qisan Magicforce with Blues:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ABUJ2KM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523897952&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Qisan&dpPl=1&dpID=41JrKWyK32L&ref=plSrch
Qisan Magicforce with Browns:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E8KO2B0/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523897987&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Qisan&dpPl=1&dpID=41MDmUOhuPL&ref=plSrch
Redragon K551 with Blues (Keep in mind this is the one with red backlighting. You can choose the one with no backlighting if you don’t want it. Rainbow one is a couple bucks over your budget but has set lights while the RGB one is roughly 5 bucks over your budget but has relatively programmable lighting):
https://www.amazon.com/Keyboard-Mechanical-Redragon-illuminated-ABS-Metal/dp/B016M91SS0?th=1&psc=1
Redragon K552 with Blues (The TKL version of the K551. This is the rainbow version with set colors for each switch as it’s under your budget. The RGB version is over your budget by 3 bucks. Same applies though, you can go for no lighting or just plain red for less):
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-KUMARA-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B01LZN7MLE?th=1&psc=1
Velocifire full-size with Blues (Just know that rainbow LEDs means you cannot change the color of the switches. It is not full RGB. It’s still pretty cheap if you want at least some multicolor things, but the colors you see are the colors you get. A bargain for 26 USD though, cheaper than the Redragon K551 rainbow version, although the color of the board is harder to work into a setup compared to the K551’s straight black):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01C8HMIES/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1523898681&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Velocifire&dpPl=1&dpID=51xyHHRfUTL&ref=plSrch
There is also a version of the VM30 with black switches and is also 25 USD. It seems out of stock right now. If you want to wait a bit on that, it’s the cheapest board I’m aware of that comes with black switches:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07BFGZ891/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523899072&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=VM30+Black+switches&dpPl=1&dpID=51MCGebQeDL&ref=plSrch
Velocifire full size with Browns (If you’re looking at the wireless version, don’t. The wireless mode of it sucks according to everyone I’ve asked who got it. The only good thing of the wireless version is that you can run wired so that means you’re paying an extra 10 bucks for a removable cable option):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M0QEYR4/?th=1&psc=1
Velocifire TKL with Browns (I linked the wireless version because it seems like the wired version is discontinued. If you can find it, the wired version has blue backlighting and an attached cable for 30 USD. The wireless has a crappy wireless mode, no backlighting as far as I’m aware, but a detachable cable for 40 USD)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B076D5WVYG/
If you’re looking for something like red switches because “gaming,” just know that is pure marketing bullshit. If you’re looking at reds because you actually want them. I’m aware that the Qisan Magicforce also comes in red, but I couldn’t find the 40 dollar option. That’s the only board I’m aware of that has reds in your budget range, but I’m sure someone who knows more can throw one out.
64GB Samsung EVO Select U3 microSDXC Memory Card w/ Adapter (MB-ME64GA/AM)$13.99
128GB Samsung EVO Select U3 microSDXC Memory Card w/ Adapter (MB-ME128GA/AM) $24.99
256GB Samsung EVO Select U3 microSDXC Memory Card w/ Adapter (MB-ME256GA/AM) $59.99
What you'll need:
Again, there are some very optional parts above. It can be as cheap or expensive as you want. Also, I'm not getting into controllers. Those will throw the budget in every direction possible.
I think you need heavier tactile switches. A board with outemu purples would be perfect for you in my opinon
mx browns aren't that tactile and they're just overall bad scratchy switches
here's what you can do if you want something cheap: Get this board off amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Element-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-Switch/dp/B01FXF7HFC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521265056&sr=8-3&keywords=z-88
and buy these switches: https://mehkee.com/collections/switches-and-parts/products/outemu-switches-purple-teal?variant=48787280079
overall the cost will be around $71 and you'll have to replace the switches yourself (which is really easy, you just pull them out with the included puller tool and replace them with the switches you buy)
Keyboard (note I have a bunch of custom keycaps)
Mouse pad (it's under my keyboard because I don't have enough room)
Mouse
It doesn't have to be rainbow, everything has all different colors and patterns you can set it to. I had everything purple for a while earlier.
This vs. the 64gb Samsnug Evo @ $10.99?
You need a stirplate!
I made one very cheaply from these things:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00080G0BK/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KUWM3C/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Edit: And 1 washer, as long as it fits on the inside of the fan.
Edit: Here is a video
Too expensive? All you need is a computer fan, a pair of magnets, and some glue. I used this fan (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00080G0BK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I just removed the metal guard from the back side and glued the magnet to it. The ends of the screws hold the flask the right height above the fan for everything to work perfectly. It's not the prettiest stir plate but it works just as well.
I got you fam. I followed Nintendo’s support documentation on this (https://en-americas-support.nintendo.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/27595/~/how-to-transfer-data-between-microsd-cards-for-use-on-nintendo-switch). I was moving around 40GB from my old 64GB to my new 256GB card. To do this I needed to buy a usb reader alongside my microSD card (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009D79VH4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MCeDCbV3G5PM2) so that I could actually access and move the data around. Some computers might have this slot already. I ended up using the SD adapter that came with the microSD card as well bc I felt weird shoving in the delicate micro card directly.
The whole process Nintendo listed out actually took quite a while - maybe like 4 hours tbh. The part that took the longest was a full OverWrite to reformat my new microSD card using their recommended 3rd party application (https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter_4/).
After everything was done, the data on the new card worked seamlessly. It was fairly simple, just slow! I’ve heard some people skip the reformat and have had success. I was too nervous to do that.
Feel free to DM me if you get stuck - I did this just two days ago so it’s top of mind.
Completely inaccurate.
In fact, the newest letterbomb exploit requires you to be on the latest 4.3 firmware, whereas this guide suggests exploits after 4.1 are impossible.
An HDD is completely optional for storing large amounts of games. If you have a large enough SD card, you can play pretty much anything other than large Wii titles (wbfs files >4GB) from it.
I would suggest a Micro SD card with adapter for the cheaper option (I'm currently running a 64GB Samsung, available here, with no issues). You will need some form of SD card to complete the exploit, but I was able to do so with an old 1GB card that was left in the Wii.
Hope this helps!
Edit:
In short,
You can install Hassio on Raspbian on an SSD, which is what I do. More reliable, you have all the Hassio addons, and you can install other things on the SSD. Not all adapters will work with the Pi, but I found this USB-SATA adapter works.
Depending on which Pi you have, you might need to manually enable USB boot. See here for more info.
Cheapest "kinda" is buy a cheap non-backlit MagicForce 68... $40 on Amazon. Though technically it's a 65%.
MKB's is one of the place where DIY is NOT cheaper.
Tell you? I will SHOW you! XPOWER A-2 Airrow Pro Multi-Use Electric Computer Duster Dryer Air Pump Blower - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BI4UQK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rGiNDbNZF09Z6
You’re good. I’m guessing this is brand new? Dust is inevitable, no matter how many filters and screens you put on it, and even with positive pressure; it will always find a way in. Just clean it once a month or so with compressed air. Unplug it, take it outside and blow that sucker out.
If it’s coated with dust it can cause heat issues and maybe also short something, but we’re talking lots and lots of dust.
Also, I recommend spending the money for an air blower like this one. It’s about the same price as 3 or 4 air cans but will last hundreds of uses. (Might want to use ear plugs.) NEVER use a vacuum. Vacuums create static from the negative pressure and that can damage components.
That'll work fine. Brands don't matter much - they're all going to be a big step up.
For installation you'll need a small (P1) phillips screw driver, and a Torx T6 driver. I'd also recommend a can of Compressed Air Duster - if you're in there, clean it up. Any semi-good multi-bit precision screw driver set will have both. If you want to keep your data, you'll also want to have a USB SATA cable (something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD-USB-3-0-SSD-SATA-2-5/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=pd_sbs_23_3/258-6658474-5826456?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B011M8YACM&pd_rd_r=bb016fd2-3304-11e9-88d3-9bfb40e6fdf8&pd_rd_w=OEqZv&pd_rd_wg=5R3O5&pf_rd_p=18edf98b-139a-41ee-bb40-d725dd59d1d3&pf_rd_r=HSN8B74MBPD7Z1J2SCSJ&psc=1&refRID=HSN8B74MBPD7Z1J2SCSJ) which will let you migrate your data back after you install your new drive.
On a clean surface shut down the machine and flip it over, undoing the 8 screws on the bottom (3 will be longer, and 5 will be short) on the bottom case. Should just pop off then. On the right-hand side of the device closest to you is the battery - a short cable with a black plastic cap on the top right is the battery connector. Disconnect the battery. (Not absolutely required, but safer).
Once open, give the inside a dusting, then look for the hard drive in the lower left hand corner. Right above it will be a small plastic holding bar, held in with two locking Phillips screws. Remove them and the bar and set aside.
Slide the drive out of the IR bracket on the opposite side and disconnect from the Hard Drive Flex SATA Cable. Be careful - break this cable, and you're adding another 25$ cable to your repair.
Remove the 4 T6 Torx screws from the original drive and put them into the matching holes on your new drive. Attach to the flex cable and reseat into the IR bracket and settle in. Replace the holding bar and screw it back in, making sure it's secure. Reconnect the battery.
Replace the bottom case and replace the screws. The 3 long ones are on the top right as it's sitting in front of you. The short screws you might need to angle slightly - they should sit flush.
If you have an OS install disk you're good - if not, reboot holding Command and R to get to Internet Recovery to install a fresh copy of mOS. It will let you connect to wifi (or auto-connect to your Wired network if you have an ethernet connection). When it boots (it will take a while, it's downloading most of an OS) open Disk Utility, format your new SSD (choose Mac OS Extended Journaled for the format) and you'l be able to then install mac OS.
Once installed, if you have a SATA cable you should then be able to go into macOS setup and use Migration assistant to copy your data - if it gives an error saying it was created on a newer version of macOS, you can back to the point, create a temporary user called Administrator or Update or something like that, then update your system. With a Mid-2012 with an SSD there's no reason not to be on 10.14 Mojave, so create a temporary user, update your system using the App Store to Mojave, and then you can go into Migration Assistant again (it's in the Applications/Utilities folder).
I hope this helps you out!
https://www.amazon.com/Element-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-Switch/dp/B01FXF7HFC
This one. I can only compare with CM Storm QuickFire Rapid, which I tried at store, and it's pretty decent.
Reply by OP
Sure!
I'm a touch typist, and I really enjoy the feedback of the old mechanical keyboards. This one is a 1984 IBM Model M that I tracked down on eBay a few years ago, and is a bit odd because it has combination English and Cyrillic keycaps. It's built like a tank - I've dropped a monitor on it by accident with the only damage being a popped keycap, which snapped right back into place.
This Model M is a 6-pin ps/2 keyboard, and I use this adapter to connect it to my computer. Most ps/2 to USB adapters are simple pass-throughs for the wires, and modern computers can't really make sense of that. This one has an integrated circuit to convert the ps/2 signal so the computer will recognize it as a standard USB keyboard.
The Blue Cube works perfectly for all of my Model Ms. It will also work natively if your motherboard has a PS/2 port.
Just a side question, if you shake it around, does it sound like there's anything loose on the inside?
I picked up one of these for my DS1815+. It was the cheapest name-brand UPS I could find that had USB control. Synology control panel says that it has 6448 seconds worth of power, which is about 100x longer than it takes the Synology to shut down.
I also keep my cable modem and router on the UPS. This allows the Synology to send me notifications during a power outage.
I'd recommend installing the OS on a usb 3.0 flash drive and just booting from the sd card.
Also it seems you're set on raspbmc but I'd honestly recommend openelec as it does have a slight performance advantage. See here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bYfU7v_FO6U
Here is the flash drive I'm running xbmc off of:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121155982425?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648
I also recommend overclocking (I'm at 1GHz) and doing a 256/256 memory split to get a balance of smooth menu navigation and video playback performance.
My setup has the hub and a wireless card plugged directly into the pi. Then the USB Flash drive running the os, my 1.5tb external hd (for media), and a wireless dongle for my keyboard remote plugged into the powered hub.
Also, once you get everything installed I recommend you take a look at XBMCHub and install the unofficial repos using fusion. I'd recommend installing Transmission (turn xbmc into a torrent server that can download straight to your external hd), Project Free TV, Navi-X, Icefilms, 1Channel, I Watch Online, Sports Devil, Youtube, and VEVO. There are lots of other plugins but you can browse through the repos and choose the ones you like best.
THIS,
#ALLDAY! Perhaps it's due to the fact we live in an older home, but the number of times my battery backup(s) kick on over the course of any given month is much more than I'd care to think about, or admit. My lab servers are lacking proper UPS(es), as they're mostly for testing, learning, breaking, fixing... et cetera, but I absolutely run all my crucial networking gear off one tiny APC that'll keep the optical network terminal, router and wireless access point (via PoE) going for more than 2.5 hours in the event of a power loss. Summer storms can be a real bitch and it's nice to be able to sit around, or lie in bed at night and surf on our phones, tablets, laptop, etc. while the rest of the neighborhood is dark.My daily driver desktop also gets its own APC Back-UPS Pro 1500 because I fucked up and went cheap on the PSU for this machine I built and I don't trust the rest of such a hefty investment to handle the semi-regular power fluctuations we see. 1 Blackout and 1 "Electrical Noise" (both 5 seconds each) is all that the battery has had to intervene with/for over the past ~half a year, but I sleep better at night knowing my investment is protected. I have a couple virtual machines (namely Plex & Pi-hole) that I want to keep on ticking in the event of any issues with our electricity.
I have a couple audiophile quality headphones (newest being my Hifiman HE-400i). I use a cheap lapel clip-on mic along with a 4-pole y-splitter adapter. Plug the headphones and mic into their spots on the splitter and then plug the splitter into your controller (or Mixamp, which I use). Works great.
What's your budget?
General rule of thumb is to avoid headsets. You can get a much better sound and a better mic if you buy them separately. Do a search in /r/headphones or on head-fi.org and I think most people would agree. Not to say that all headsets are terrible but you can just get a much better bang for your buck if you buy them separately.
If you're doing it on my budget, my recommendation would be these headphones (Superlux HD 681) and this mic. If you can spend more money that opens up many, many more options.
If you want to do more reading, check out head-fi.org. Everything you need to know is available there.
Oh. The cable doesnt have to be expensive or fancy. I have a dual monitor setup and I bought one of these cheapos from amazon. It works great.
Just make sure you monitor takes display port and your gpu has display port. Your monitor MAY take mini display port which is a smaller version but again you can easily find a mini display port cable on amazon for $10 or so if you need it.
Do not buy a monster cable or any expensive cable. They are disgustingly deceptive in their marketing info and are overcharging for a cable that costs them less than a dollar to make.
ask and you shall receive
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FXF7HFC?psc=1
Velocifire VM-01, Drevo Gramr, Nixeus Moda for browns. If you have a bit more money, though, I would go for a board from cooler master. I have one (with browns) and it's functional as well as RGB backlit without looking too "gamery". Hope this helps!
I'm currently using a Yeti Blue and a pair of Sennheiser HD598SRs. Planning on switching to a Modmic 5 in the future, for more easy plug-and-play with a straight headphone jack, rather than messing around with a USB mic that I have to unplug to switch my audio back to speakers.
Parts Needed Purchase Link
T-Molding https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074X9JNSX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Arcade buttons, Joystick, and usb adapter to connect buttons to raspberry PI https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arcade-LED-Control-kit-Compatible-with-Raspberry-PI-3-Plug-and-Play-Image-Incl/331814081782?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
Speakers (any desktop speakers will work) https://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Acoustics-multimedia-computer-speakers/dp/B00008MN45/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=speakers+desktop&qid=1562183686&s=electronics&sr=1-9
Arcade cabinet (with no decals) https://www.ebay.com/itm/Extra-Wide-Bartop-Arcade-Cabinet-Kit-Black-Easy-Assembly-for-22-Monitor/392268680930?hash=item5b55090ee2:g:F24AAOSwS2lcOjaJ
Decals for cabinet (you specify what artwork to use, or use their existing artwork) https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arcade-Cabinet-Sticker-Kits-Custom-Made-Bartop-Decals-Vinyl-Graphics-Full-Set/173334849324?epid=23015913882&hash=item285b8fe72c:g:9F4AAOSwMOVcNheB
22 inch monitor (any 22 inch 1080P monitor will work) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019EFMK1I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Light Strip for Marquee https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
128GB flash Drive https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BGTG2A0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
256GB SD Card (if you buy an SD card this large, then you don't need the 128GB Flash drive) https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSDXC-Adapter-MB-ME256GA-AM/dp/B072HRDM55/ref=sxin_3_osp5-d036f8df_cov?ascsubtag=d036f8df-8c95-431e-8004-07311ffa309b&creativeASIN=B072HRDM55&cv_ct_id=amzn1.osp.d036f8df-8c95-431e-8004-07311ffa309b&cv_ct_pg=search&cv_ct_wn=osp-search&keywords=sd+card&linkCode=oas&pd_rd_i=B072HRDM55&pd_rd_r=07e8feba-c265-4983-af93-5e16e7fd7b3b&pd_rd_w=FRnfg&pd_rd_wg=Ycuqv&pf_rd_p=43ba9e17-96f5-4491-b054-e546013f7dc4&pf_rd_r=9M7304BJA5B896489032&qid=1562184521&s=gateway&tag=androidcentralosp-20
Raspberry Pi https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-MS-004-00000024-Model-Board/dp/B01LPLPBS8
Raspberry Pi Case https://www.amazon.com/iUniker-Raspberry-Cooling-Heatsink-Removable/dp/B079M96KWZ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=PI+case&qid=1562183618&s=electronics&sr=1-3
Surge Protector https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LZ5XMU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Arcade Game off/on switch https://www.ebay.com/itm/2BC3-250V-Arcade-Game-Machine-ON-OFF-Switch-Power-Socket-Module-with-Fuse-Parts/312633073711?hash=item48ca62202f:g:eh0AAOSwuHJc7ngf
Power plug for arcade game off/on switch https://www.amazon.com/TNP-Universal-Power-Cord-Feet/dp/B01EYDGO12/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=desktop+power+plug&qid=1562183995&s=electronics&sr=1-3
The Samsung 256GB is one of the best values right now. You could go higher but the price goes up substantially after 256GB.
It depends on how much you’re downloading if a bigger one is worth it. Both SanDisk and Samsung are good ones to buy
This is the only real big issue with the switch. It only has 32gb of storage built in, so if you'd prefer digital, I highly recommend getting a microSD card to expand your storage space, as you'll run out quickly.
This is the one I put in, relatively cheap for 256gb and has done wonders for my switch experience, as I prefer to not lug around a bunch of physical games.
[Samsung 256GB MicroSDXC] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072HRDM55/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1)
As far as other things to enjoy it, I don't think there are any peripherals or anything to worry about, so just dive right in!
Sure, this one. I needed 4 sets to get enough connectors for all my drives. Take the back cover off of the connector, its just clipped on. Pull the wire up from both sides to keep the metal connector in place. Repeat for all the connectors. Then put your drives in your caddy or whatever you're using, put the empty connectors on the drives, then run your new wire across all of them for perfect spacing. I used new 18ga wire, but you could reuse the old too. Skip the wire for the 3.3v line, then get a flathead screwdriver out and push the wire into the connectors. Do the same for the female connector with however much spacing you want, then just put the back covers back on and you're all set.
All in all I think it took me an hour or so to do my 3 caddies. Once you figure out how to do it it goes pretty quick. Super easy as well, just make sure to double check you have the female connector the right direction so you're not reversing the pins power and killing your drives.
Ok so this is the amazon hub I have
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407942392&sr=8-1&keywords=amazon+basic+usb+hub
Apple decided to put a software power limit to the USB CCK (Camera Connection Kit) a few years ago. The hardware is capable of outputting 100ma, but Apple limited it to 20ma. The trick works by making it think that there are 4 ports instead of one, meaning the iPad gives the hub 80ma, and then the hub can give 80ma to the usb stick. I believe that is how it works anyway.
Might I ask where you will be getting the usb sticks from? Will they be given to you (in lectures or from friends etc), or is it so you can plug in a usb stick back and forth from a computer? The reason I ask, is if it is for your use, I have found that the SD card CCK is much better for this. The SD card reader has no power limit, so no hub is required and it works for any card (formatted in FAT32/HFS+) - so 128gb cards work, and most likely 256gb cards when they become reasonably priced :P. Its a lot less messy (only one cable sticking out), and for the times when I want to plug it into a computer with no SD card slot, I can use a USB 3 to SD card reader;
Something like this (I'm in the UK so not sure of the best US equivalents)
http://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Information-Card-Reader-TS-RDF5K/dp/B009D79VH4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407942666&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+3+sd+card+reader
In terms of speed its the same as USB 2, and when it comes to mounting them in iFile its exactly the same as USB CCK. And I think the same price for the SD kit over USB and SD card prices are the same as USB sticks too.
Let me know whether that sounds better or if you still require USB. It really just depends on how often you are going to be doing it, I certainly wouldn't want to take out the hub in the middle of lecture or something - would kind of defeat the purpose of the mini :P.
I'm sooooo happy with my G85. I've taken it around the world. Here's a list of things I've been keeping track of:
Microphones:
Get the Videomic Pro+. The differences are that the mic turns on/off automatically and it has a usb rechargeable battery.
Having to carry extra batteries are dumb. Especially when they're not rechargeable. Also, you WILL forget to turn the mic on, then your whole shot is ruined because NO SOUND will be recorded. Trust me.
You probably noticed that you can't look in the viewfinder because of the videomic. This Movo 4" bar will fix that.
Batteries:
Speaking of extra batteries, you're going to want more. There are two types: cheap non-decoded, cheap decoded, and OEM.
Non-decoded means you won't know how much battery you have left in the camera. Obviously that's dumb. Spend a little more and get decoded. I really like these OAproda 2 pack + charger. No battery lasts as long as the OEM, but it's close enough. Plus, the OAproda charger is much thinner than the others and charges via USB.
SD Cards:
I love these SanDisk Extreme Pro. I purchased the 128gb because I NEVER want to be in a position that I can ever possibly run out of space.
You'll want a way to copy the files to your pc. This Transcend USB 3.0 works amazingly, and it's $9 for a two pack.
Lens:
The kit lens is pretty damn good. But here are the lenses that you'll see people talk about all the time. Depending how new you are in photography/videography, you should know this: we have a crop sensor. It's not the end of the world. A majority of the people don't mind it. But when you're looking at lens sizes, you need to double the number in order to compare it with full frame camera's. But again, not a big deal.
Panasonic 25mm f1.7 - compared to the "nifty fifty" on a full frame (25mm*2=50mm). This lens works aaaaaaamazing in low light / day light / etc. But to get an idea of how 'zoomed in' it is, take your kit lens and rotate it to "25mm". That's how this lens is. Nevertheless, still such an awesome lens.
Panasonic 45-150mm f4.0-5.6 - I just bought this lens from Amazon Warehouse for $100. It's very well built and serves it's purpose (when I want to zoom in on something far away)
Rokinon 12mm f2.0 - Everyone loves this lens, but keep in mind that it does not have autofocus. Is it the worst thing in the world? No. But it's the only drawback so it's worth mentioning. I was doing some night time time lapses last night and man, this sucker was beautiful. It's WIDER than any other lens, so you'll capture more of the image but it DOES NOT have a fisheye effect (which is awesome).
DSLR Video Shooter's G85 guide was wellllll worth the $20. Most of it was pretty elementary, but I did learn so much more and started using about 90% of what he spoke about. Brilliant.
I personally love Draw A Box. As for digital art I suggest getting the wacom intous. Software wise I use clip pain studio pro.
For your uses, you should get the Wacom Intuos Draw. It's on average $10 cheaper than the other Wacom Intuos, and works exactly the same way. You can find it as low as $70 new.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010LHRFM2/ref=twister_B014WXSC7S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The Wacom Drawing Tablet is only $63.90 on Amazon. Good price on everything else though, GLWS!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0086OGN9E/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_MSWBCbH62Y3RM
I got that it's been working great on my shucked easystores.
I've been using this one, transfer speeds of 130MB/s
When you want to load a new OS on your eMMC there's a two-part adapter to get from the USB-A port on your computer to the eMMC chip.
I already had this card reader and it works perfectly with the $1.50 MicroSD to eMMC adapter. Ameridroid lists them both separately and together, and when together it says "eMMC to microSD Adapter + Transcend USB3.0 reader/writer [0091 0106-NE]"
Heh. Well, despite your snarky comment, I've decided to provide a suggestion. Perhaps this might be a bit more useful.
A super simple search at Amazon revealed a highly rated Best Seller product that reads SD cards and hooks to a USB port. It's $6.99 with free shipping.
Its also small, like pack of gum small, so I'd imagine you could carry it in a pocket.
So, I'd imagine that would solve your issue.
http://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Information-Card-Reader-TS-RDF5K/dp/B009D79VH4
You could have replaced that $15 spent on a keyboard & USB Drive with a $10 wifi adapter, then just SSH'd into the box and done everything that way from your PC, and then used SFTP or SCP to transfer ROM's to the Pi, or just when SSH'ed into the pi do
wget [download link]
Just FYI for anyone that wants to do this project. You also probably won't need a starter kit. Minimum you'll need:
Total Price: $44, I didn't include a keyboard because I assume everyone has one, you just need that for the initial setup and then you can use SSH.
For just $69.95 you too can become an artist.
I know it’s nothing special, but this is my macsetup! I work primarily on video editing projects, some Photoshopping, with some Wordpress website building sprinkled in there. But this setup is used mostly for generic browsing, YouTube/Netflix, and Plex server hosting.
So this is my setup that I’ve built over the course of 4 years.
Hard Drive Toaster - StarTech.com HDD Docking Station
Little sumo man was a gift from a friend. Custom R2-series astromech droid was purchased a trip to Disney Paris. And I name my external hard drives after characters in movies and TV shows that I enjoy.
Let me know if you have any questions!
I had a wonderful Redditor recommend the 558's over the CALs when I was searching for advice. My budget is around $100-$140 and I'll be using the headphones with the neewer mic the play LoL and talk on Team speak. I just wanted other opinions to confirm that the 558's are definitely worth the premium price over the CALs and that they would be good for my needs. Thanks!
Dont use this if you only want to game with it without streaming or recording. even then im sure what i use could be perfectly good. This is what i use. https://www.amazon.ca/Neewer-3-5mm-Hands-Computer-Microphone/dp/B005DJOIHE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480011721&sr=8-1&keywords=Lapel+mic
you get 3 of those microphones for 10$ and i use it every day. if it breaks for whatever reason well i have 2 spare. i dont even clip it on me. i leave it on my desk so that i dont hit it by accident. get yourself a really good pair of headphones with this and you are gold.
[this] (https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort/dp/B005H3Q59U) is what you want
I'm always gonna reccomend HyperX headsets. I have bought other "gaming" headsets and after I got my first HyperX I seriously will never switch to anything else.
On a budget:
https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Stinger-Nintendo-HX-HSCS-BK-NA/dp/B01L2ZRYVE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1519911387&sr=8-2&keywords=hyperx
Have some money:
https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset-KHX-HSCC-BK/dp/B0153XL4V2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1519911387&sr=8-5&keywords=hyperx
Big balla:
https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Revolver-Surround-HX-HSCRS-GM-NA/dp/B01N9RM9N3/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1519911387&sr=8-7&keywords=hyperx
I've owned the stinger, the cloud, and the cloud 2. To be honest I didnt notice much difference between the cloud 1 and 2 except that the mic is a bit clearer since it can noise cancel.
edit: The stinger is a very good headset for the price though, they mostly cut costs on it by removing the metal bits and attaching the microphone. It won't stand up to someone who rages and throws their headsets though (rip my stinger, damn you mary).
Hey, just wanted to point out the keyboard you linked is a rubber dome keyboard, not a mechanical.
As for a keyboard, I agree with Invisibiliti, you might want to look into a Qisan Magicforce 68, as they're generally very cheap, and as far as I've heard, the 65% layout is great for gaming. You can get them in Outemu Blues or Outemu Blacks from Amazon.
It's like they're describing 3 different switches. I'd buy something else since the seller doesn't seem to know what they're selling. Get a Magicforce 68 or something instead.
My Amazon order got here early, so I got to play with my first mech before I leave town for the weekend!
Board: Magicforce 68-key with Outemu Blues on Amazon
Keys: Taihao Sunset, also from Amazon
I haven't removed the anti-biosis coating yet, and I might not for a while as I don't really mind it so far. I am loving the clack!
Budget
Middle tier
Premium
Owned boards from all of the series above. Highly recommend looking on your local Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, or /r/hardwareswap for used keyboards. Can easily get them for half price from keyboard addicts such as myself who have too many ;)
I have the XPower A-2, Ive had mine for 3 years. Works great. Far cheaper.
I have used the following device for over 3 years now on my server closets, PC's, miners, and other electronics. Very satisfied works wonders it's super powerful , make sure to hold further away from gpu while using the lower setting. Hope this helps
XPOWER A-2 Airrow Pro Multi-Use Electric Computer Duster Dryer Air Pump Blower - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BI4UQK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_K2.aBbKY95ZWC
/u/JustOutrageousX , buy one of these and then plug it into the back of your Xbox One. Set it off to the side of your Xbox so it pushes hot air out the front. If that is the only place you can put your console then I would highly suggest doing this or finding a method to get heat out that small area.
I'll give you my amazon build. It's $10 less than a comparable one from StirStarters, and only requires you to have a wall-outlet to USB adapter (Or for you to plug it into a computer when running.)
Box
Fan
Magnets
Stir Bar
The fan has a speed controller, you just need an adhesive to secure the magnets to the fan, and some way to shim the fan up in the box so the magnets are closer to the top of the stir plate. I just used cardboard.
If you have a powerful enough magnet, that cuts off about $5 in costs. Or if you can create your own enclosure you may be able to save.
If you mean it has the large 5 pin DIN connector and not the ps/2... you will need a couple adapters.
First is the AT (DIN) to ps/2 adapter. Now you can use a blue cube to convert it to usb.
You might be able to use one of the cheap ps/2 to usb adapters but they don't work for all keyboards when the bluecube seems to work on everything..
This is the blue cube in case you didn't know. http://www.amazon.com/PS2-Keyboard-To-USB-Adapter/dp/B000BSJFJS
Fujitsu Leaf Springs; absolutely lovely linear switches and THICC doubleshot caps.
To use it on a modern computer is quite simple:
daisy chain it together and it should work, unless the keyboard is using some weird terminal language.
You can get a DIN to PS/2 adapter (they are the same electrically) and then use a PS/2 to USB adapter. The Blue Cube is a good bet for compatibility with old AT boards (specifically, the Model M works well with this adapter).
5 pin DIN.
You need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/kenable-AT-Keyboard-PS-Adapter/dp/B003OSTBZA
and one of these: https://www.amazon.com/SANOXY-SANOXY_USB-PS2-PS2-Keyboard-Adapter/dp/B000BSJFJS
If it goes out that frequently, then yes it could have some adverse effects. The main one being if it loses power during a write operation to the HDD or cloud such as saving a game. For instance if your game is trying to save and the power goes out right in the middle of it doing it, when you try to load back up your save might be corrupted and you may lose your progress in the game. You may be totally screwed and have to start over, or you may only lose some progress between when your last save was uploaded to the cloud.
Since I'm assuming there's not much you can do about the outages where you live or being able to move where the utility is more reliable, the best way to protect yourself from future headache is to get one of those UPS battery backup power supplies that they use for computers and stuff to prevent against blackouts such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484415526&sr=8-3&keywords=apc+battery+backup+%26+surge+protector
What you do is plug your entertainment center into one of those and when a blackout happens it will keep enough power to your console for a few hours to operate until the power from your utility comes back on. For example, you notice the power goes out such as your lights in your room go out, but your console and TV will still be on if plugged into one of those. You then are able to finish up whatever it is you were doing, save your game, then shut down your console properly without danger of something happening until the power comes back on. They also protect against surges. If you are a little bit more flexible with your budget, you can also look into something called a 'line conditioner.'
Aside from thanking everyone who replied, I want to take the time to update on whats going on.
After I posted, I was leaning into purchasing a Fluval Spec V to house Fishy. 170). I started looking for other options such as buying another tank, buying at a LFS or commissioning a tank.
A reputable tank maker quoted me US$45.00 to make a 15 Gallon tank, with the following dimension 16.25''x16.25''x13.25'' (LxWxH) made with .88 mm glass or aprox 1/3''.
In turn, I would have to buy a filter, a heater and light (as well as substrate and plants). Here is what Im leaning towards, advice would be very much appreciated, as its my first tank in about 10 years:
Heater: Eheim 25 watt.
Filter: Aquaclear HOB Power Filter 20.
Light: Finnex Stingray 16'.
An acquaintance suggested I buy this filter instead:
Aquaclear Power Head + Aquaclear Powerhead Attachment.
Even suggested I fit my tank with two of those instead of the HOB filter.
Being a noob, I dont really know much about those types of filters.
For plants Im thinking something like this:
Fluval Anubias 12'.
Fluval Lizard Tail.
Substrate: Im looking forward to adding real plants in the future.
Soil - ADA Africana.
Sand - something along that color.
I already own an APC UPS, similar to this one or even the same one (i dont really remember).
Again, any tips or suggestions are welcome.
I have the rii keyboard and I love it. It's more of a keyboard and touchpadcombo than a remote but it got a laser, the key are back lit and is rechargable. The keyboard works flawlessly but the trackpad is a bit too small to be efficient. I would have put the mouse button somewhere else but you can't really complaint for the price. You can get it on amazon for cheap:
http://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Keyboard-Built-TouchPad-Pointer/dp/B003UE52ME
I know there is a blutooth version but can't find it right now.
Sorry to be "that guy" -- but Amazon has it for $20 http://www.amazon.com/FAVI-Entertainment-Wireless-Keyboard-TouchPad/dp/B003UE52ME
Adafruit has good prices on most things. For example- about half the soldering stuff I needed, was less on Adafruit than Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Retroflag-Functional-Shutdown-Heatsinks-Raspberry/dp/B07872ZDCS/ref=sr_1_1
​
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XX29S9Q/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_2?
​
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-940-000110-Gamepad-F310/dp/B003VAHYQY/ref=sr_1_2
The problem is almost certainly your card. The Ultra is a U1-rated card, whereas the Pocket requires a U3 rated card not to glitch. There are moments in the write process where the bitrate of the Pocket exceeds the write speed of a U1 rated card. The Sandisk Extreme and Extreme Pro are U3 rated, as well as the Samsung EVO Select which is on sale for $10 today
If you have access to Prime Now, the 256GB may be available in your area and for first-time customers, use 15PRIMENOW to save $15. Brings price down to $21.99 before tax.
https://primenow.amazon.com/dp/B072HRDM55
I've used them before, but the code works for me.
This is a pretty good one if you like brown switches:
https://www.amazon.com/Velocifire-Mechanical-Keyboard-Illuminated-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01M0QEYR4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484063117&sr=8-1&keywords=velocifire
lolno
this is probably the closest thing you're going to get.
Ah, well I think for my first mech keyboard it should be decent. I was origanlly going to go with this keyboard once I saved up enough(I'm a broke student.) https://www.amazon.com/Velocifire-Mechanical-Keyboard-Illuminated-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01M0QEYR4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1496279059&sr=1-1&keywords=velocifire+vm01
If you live alone or with people that don't mind noise, you can try a Tomoko or MagicForce with blue switches. It's usually better to go with blue for cheap ones, because the sharp TICK they create usually covers up any scratchy or gritty feeling a quieter key might have.
No frills Tomoko for $35 that I've been typing on for half a year, works well so far. Can be very loud though.
Magicforce 68 is a compact budget board highly recommended by a lot of mech key fans. You can get a full-size with num-pad and Gateron switches for $70 or with Cherry for more.
Velocifire is a brand I know far less about, but they sell a full-size brown switch board with over 300 reviews that consist of mostly positive feedback. I have no idea what brand the switches on this one are, they make some other full-size boards with Kailh switches.
heads up, you may wanna alter price. this is 40 brand new on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Doubleshot-Velocifire-Illuminated-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01M0QEYR4
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M0QEYR4/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>$25 for a
128gb64gb U-3 is a steal.The Samsung "U3" card on amazon is always like $23. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XX29S9Q/ref=twister_B071R715MZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
There is a difference between this and that in terms of write speed, though.
Dashcam & Accessories:
Viofo G1W-S, $55
GPS Module, $25
64GB EVO Select, $15
I had a G1W-C a few years ago. It died, and I replaced it with the G1W-S. I later found that if you add a GPS module to it, it auto-sets the time. I'm sure there are better options out there, but I'm just familiar with the "G1W" setup (including how it attaches to my rearview mirror).
I would not buy that Lexar card. There have been a lot of recent issues with the latest batch of those cards. They used to be reliable in the A119/A119S, but something seems to have changed recently. The Samsung card in the link below seems to be working great with the A119. I have not had any issues with it yet.
https://www.amazon.ca/Samsung-MB-ME64GA-AM-MicroSDXC-Adapter/dp/B06XX29S9Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1498181439&sr=1-1&keywords=samsung+select
that's more work than the usb3.0-sata adapters, grabbed two of these on sale a while back for a few bucks each, life savers. https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=sr_1_13?crid=2DLCJ2XTFADGR&keywords=sabrent+usb+3.0+to+sata%2Fide+hard+drive+adapter&qid=1568915797&s=gateway&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sprefix=sabrent+usb%2Caps%2C173&sr=8-13
Use a cable like this to plug your hard drive into another working computer and transfer the stuff out. Then you can wipe it and reinstall the fresh OS once you have it plugged it into your new motherboard.
I use an older Samsung Evo SSD with a plain SATA-USB adapter. No case. The adapter has an LED.
Sabrent USB 3.0 to SSD / 2.5-Inch... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011M8YACM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Hyper X Cloud Core
They aren't really that much worse. The sound signature of the Takstar Pro80's (which HyperX Clouds are just a rebrand of with a detachable mic added) is very similar to the sound signature of the Beyerdynamic DT 770.
Here is the frequency response curve for the 770's, and here is the frequency response curve for the Clouds.
Having tried both, the 770's obviously sound better (better separation mostly. the bass on 770's is just a lot nicer in general as well.), but it's not nearly as significant as one would assume. If you have the extra cash, get the 770's, but a lot of people can't or aren't willing to spend that much on headphones.
The real value of the HyperX Cloud is the solid blend of functionality, price, and quality they offer. Build quality is important, I don't care what anyone says, and the HyperX Clouds perform amazingly in that regard for their price point. There are plenty of audiophile grade headphones that are built worse than the Clouds.
If you are used to listening to high end headphones, these won't blow you away or anything, but most enthusiasts who aren't absurdly biased against "gaming headsets" would agree that these sound good, and for roughly ~$66 on Amazon they're the obvious go-to for under $100.
The Custom One Pro's (and the Custom Studios) are allegedly souped up, slightly tweaked DT 770's with a more modern build, detachable cable, etc. Never tried them personally.
https://www.amazon.com/Qisan-Keyboard-Mechanical-68-Keys-Magicforce/dp/B01ABUJ2KM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466642849&sr=8-1&keywords=magicforce+68+blue
This is probably your best bet for 40 or under, i love mine.
Magicforce 68
Magicforce 68 is one of the most solid "beginner" boards around, they're really good for the price.
The Drevo Gramr is $3 more. It looks smaller, but it has the same keys as a TKL just condensed a little bit.
Rantopad MXX is also a good choice.
or the Redragon K552 is $10 cheaper without the numpad, though I believe this keyboard uses Kailh switches (the old ones are very bad) so I'm not sure if I'd actually recommend it.
Amazon has dozens of mechanical keyboards for $30-50. You really can’t go wrong, but here’s some that stand out:
Except for Cooler Master, name-brand gaming boards (e.g. Logitech, Corsair, Steelseries) are only as good or even worse than budget options. Unless you’re stuck in one brand’s RGB lighting ecosystem, avoid them at all costs.
omfg how can someone with a great case like that do this to his PC? I blow dust my PC every week or two. Open that bad boy and clean all that dust because I can clearly see through window that it definitely piles up.
This duster may seem expensive at first but this buy is one of the best purchases I've ever made. It's strong as fuck and you can use it for your car too.
Take that outside, all that dust will end up floating back inside your pc, also invest in one of these
Better watch out though, that's not the electrostatic discharge model. It may damage your components.
EDIT: This is the ESD model for cleaning fragile PCs:
https://www.amazon.com/Metro-Datavac-Safe-Electric-Duster/dp/B00U01YVYK
This seems cheaper and works on PCs:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BI4UQK0/ref=psdc_3012916011_t1_B00U01YVYK
In no circumstances should anyone use molex to sata use this instead.
I'm running 10 drives on my corsair CX500M. it only has a single 12v rail. its also powering my 1080. I have had zero problems for 2.5 years now. I use these. they are amazing and high quality.
Those look pretty molded to me too. I use these ones, myself:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E
The connector is upside-down, so it's a bit of a pain to use, but I'm only using 2 of the 4 slots at the moment.
8k porn. Duh. /s
Short answer: No.
Long answer: computers really aren't meant to tied to gather and share resources. In order to do so would mean a direct connection between the cpu I/O buses (like in multi cpu setups).
If you require just a stylus do to work, and do not need portability, you can buy a drawing pads for PC But will not provide feedback on the pad instead will be on your computer's screen.
Wacom tablets are usually recommended as the gold standard of drawing tablets. They're a bit more expensive but usually worth the price. This is their starter model:
http://www.amazon.ca/Wacom-Intuos-Draw-Graphics-Tablet/dp/B010LHRFM2/
Although to be fair, I've never used anything outside of the Wacom brand for a very long time. It's not hard to imagine other brands catching up to Wacom in terms of technical prowess...
It's a digital drawing tablet similar to this. There are several kinds in various price ranges from a small one around $60-80 up to really large, really expensive ones.
I use a 320GB Western Digital hard drive that I salvaged from a TalkTalk YouView box. I use this Sabrent SATA to USB adapter that I got off Amazon (v.good quality). I think that this is the drive that WD use in their Passport as it runs off 5V 500mA (what USB supplys) and it is quite small. But the Pi supplys slightly less than 5V 500mA. I connect the drive to a powered USB hub (powered by this external power supply) connected to the Pi. I keep this plugged into my Pi 24/7 as I use a Pi instead of a desktop computer. I leave it in during boot and shutdown. It works well and I use it to store all of my data and I have set a folder on it as my Chromium downloads folder.
I think you had a faulty USB. Hope you didn't lose too much data.
Yep, if anything, just take out the battery and plug it in and see if it turns on.
Worst case scenario, you can just pull the hard drive and use this sata to USB adapter to get your files off and use it as an external drive. GL!
2 600w LEDs and it doesn't exceed 850w on the whole smart plug.
power pictures
Edit: in the power pictures you can see I took extra precaution. Most everything in the tent has built in trips, but I don't trust those or my apartment. I bought these extension cords then routed every plug through one of those to my battery backup using a 1ft extension when needed. Finally, everything is going to a smart plug with energy monitoring so I can calculate what I cost the energy bill every month. This allows me to make sure I grow the value of what I spend on growing at least. So far, I'm still running about even at $40 a month.
Sure. Here's what I could pull from my orders and searching around. This is most of my gear. Not really "homelab" stuff. Have a crap ton of ethernet running around the house.
not a headset but a clip on microphone pack for $7 (3 pieces). That's ~ $2 per mic. And these do the job from personal rocket league experience.
They clip on to your shirt too, or you can just put them on your desk and it'll pick your voice no problem.
100% get headphones and a microphone separately. You'll get better sound quality on both fronts, and for less money too.
This is always an excellent choice.
Sennheiser is known for making the best of the best.
I bought these when they were $60, and they're fantastic.
I use these mics, and they're really, really good for the price. See the video review.
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-3-5mm-Hands-Computer-Microphone/dp/B005DJOIHE/ref=sr_1_15?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1486234609&sr=1-15&keywords=microphone this is the one i have been using for the past 6 months, and it is great quality and very durable. Comes with 3 as well just in case.
I didn't say they were bad, just that they're a waste of money. I would get the first Clouds over the Cloud IIs personally, since they cost a bit less and are functionally identical. I think they are based on the same headphones (which is a good move on Kingston's Part) but with the added gimmick of virtual surround sound.
Having said that, you could easily get a good pair of headphones and a crappy lav mic (three actually) and have a better setup for the same money.
Well you could but adaptors like that are directional. There is an active conversion chip in them that only works to convert one to the other.
So a DP -> HDMI cable can't be used for HDMI -> DP.
DP can also do passive conversion if it is a DP++ port (basically the GPU is outputting HDMI not DP to begin with then). Again those passive adaptors will really not work the opposite way.
So you could use what you have, a DP -> HDMI adaptor and then one of these to do HDMI -> DP on the other side. I think you will agree that it would be much simpler (not to mention better for the signal), and far cheaper, just to use a DisplayPort cable.
Get a couple of these and turn one sata power to four.
https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E
There is much better value in other cards mate. You can grab a Samsung 64GB 100MB/s (U3) MicroSDXC EVO Select which is an excellent performing card for under $20 or the 128GB model for under $40. They are U3 rated which means they guarantee the write speed will remain above 30MB/s. The tests I have seen have shown this card writes much faster than this.
The max write speed the A6000 is capable of is 35MB/s. At 1080 60fps, my guess is that the write speed required would be around a third of that, but at least you will have a card which can clear the buffer at max speed should you be burst shooting stills.
And still, sdcard can be jacked to https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSD-Adapter-MB-ME128GA-AM/dp/B072HRDM55/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_tr_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=SW9K6TMW98JJTG7P377S&th=1
256, then add cloud.
Or if money isn't a concern, a 512 card. still 250 to 300 for it.
Samsung 256GB 100MB/s (U3) MicroSDXC EVO Select Memory Card with Adapter (MB-ME256GA/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072HRDM55/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wpF0Cb4EZS4Z7
The one I use, pretty good size and to me a pretty good price. Might be worth to save up for it instead of having to buy a bigger card every time you hit the cap
As big as you want to pay for.
256GB go for ~$36
400GB are under $65 for the first time outside of a blackfriday sale.
512GB are coming down in price, and a 1TB card is launching later this year.
Edit: a MAJORITY of Switch titles are 10GB or less. Lots of 1GB or less games. Nearly all AAA third party titles however, are 15GB or more. With the biggest titles coming in at 25GB to 32GB each.
Unless it's a very warm environment, I don't think so. I had mine in an unconditioned room during a NY summer. It gets quite toasty, but I haven't had any problems. That being said, I didn't like the temp and purchased a USB-powered single 80mm fan (thermaltake I think). It's a neat little thing and even on low (completely silent until you're within a foot of the fan) it cooled the device until it was barely warm to the touch.
EDIT: this is what I use
It is an adjustable near silent fan that doesn't buffet. My cresties terrs smell like old bananas and jungle sometimes. I decided to do something about it. I keep their stuff very clean and these fans clean up the air for us. Here's the link on amazon if you buy 2 you can get super saver shipping....
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00080G0BK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1377299237&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165
You might need an active adapter such as the blue cube.
An active adapter, like the blue cube.
Nice, congrats on the sweet attic find! PS/2 keyboards always require a reset after being plugged in/out. To avoid that, you can get what's commonly referred to as the blue cube PS/2 to USB adapter which will make your Model M behave as a modern USB keyboard. I hope you enjoy the board, it'd definitely a great first (and for some final) step into the world of mechanical keyboards!
A little air flow couldn't hurt. I would put one hole on each side of the cabinet for intake and exhaust. On the intake, place a mesh or filter to minimize dust etc. On the exhaust side, I would just use something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Thermaltake-A1888-External-Usb-Fan/dp/B00080G0BK Inexpensive and relatively low power draw.
Here is the fan I used. Variable speed powered with an old cell phone charger.
http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Mobile-Fan-External-Cooling/dp/B00080G0BK/ref=pd_sim_indust_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=0H1S3WZ8YBS4F25YEVH8
Here is another option on the Flask if you have Prime.
http://www.amazon.com/Narrow-Mouth-Erlenmeyer-Flask-Heavy/dp/B008CFRMZQ/ref=pd_sim_e_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0M4SYPZDV9G5AN89NVX0
Here's how I cool my modem/router. Many routers have at least one powered USB port on them these days.
I bought one of these USB cooling fans to cool an old laptop I had. I think I paid about ten bucks at Frys for it. Used some nuts to put some space between the box/router/modem to give it some airflow and plugged the fan into the routers USB port. Stays nice and cool. I thought I might need to drill some holes on boths sides of the router to get effective airflow over the chipset, but that hasn't been necessary. The small vents on the sides and bottom of the router have been enough.
I'm with most of the other commenters here in wondering why most networking equipment doesn't include even the smallest of fans from the factory to help improve the performance of the device under load and increase its longevity.
You could also get a couple of these guys and plug them into the HTPC so they only run when the system is on, or get a powered USB hub for them to run all the time.
I used this computer fan,
Thermaltake Mobile Fan II External USB Cooling Fan - Us https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00080G0BK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2aVizb53FQE8Z
And this box, the lid is a little flimsy so I left the fan's mounting screws long enough to support the weight of a full 5 liter flask.
Darice 9180-06 Unfinished Cigar Box, 8.375"x8.125"x1.75" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001767QPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TcVizbZFZ06D7
And this is what I ended up with...
https://imgur.com/gallery/TtMEI
Edit: if you're in the U.S. and would like I could send you the magnets I used and a stir bar. The magnets I used came in a 10 pack.
How are you looking to power it - wall wort or USB?
If you want to avoid any hassle you can skip wiring it entirely and use one of these:
Thermaltake Mobile Fan II External USB Cooling Fan - Us https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00080G0BK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8v8rzb0S032GD
That's what mine uses, and it works perfectly!
For people with less professional or cheaper setups, I use this one as an alternative. You can cut a hole in the back of your TV stand and plug it into the USB port on your receiver.
Thermaltake Mobile Fan II Adjustable Speed External USB Cooling Fan with One-touch Retractable USB power cable box for Notebook Laptop Desktop. A1888 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00080G0BK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_y4LKDbH6CXSZR
Here is a photo of mine.
I used:
I used "mighty mend it" to glue the large washer to the pc fan center, and glued the magnets on the washer with different poles facing up. I spliced the power wires and attached them to the wiring of the pc fan. I used screws to attach the pc fan to the wood box.
If you are looking for a simple, cheap way to do it, buy this fan on Amazon for like $11 and use a usb charger from an old cell.
get you one of these! and plug it in to the usb port on the back of your marantz! you could cut holes in your stand or just put it back there out of sight to move some air.
Already posted this, but it's part of this fan.
I'm not OP, but I also used that fan for it. Awesome thing.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005MMSTNG/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00080G0BK/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TH7GV4/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You are welcome. This is my setup
For personal reasons, I am leaving the hobby. It was fun while it lasted but now my lackluster hardly-used equipment needs to go. This community is so positive and helpful for the up-and-coming homebrewer so I'll feed into it. If you want any of the equipment below all I ask is for you to pay for shipping (or pick-up if local), and if you want to shoot me a few more bucks feel free. Just put it to good use and don't let it collect dust like I did. Most of this stuff is probably not even worth the shipping but here's the list:
3G glass carboy2x 1G glass carboysand bungshydrometerrefractometer (Brix/SG)I use these
You can turn the speed up and down as needed or as noise allows. They are very durable, I still have one of my old ones I bought for my ps3 back in 2011.
No, but you need two adapters:
If you really wanted to you could chop off the current plug and solder the leads into the BlueCube permanently, but I really don't see any benefit to doing this.
This is a pretty popular ps/2 to usb converter, if you don't mind having something like that at the back of your PC. It's possible to embed something similar inside the shell of the keyboard if you want to run a USB cable out of it and have it easily portable, but that's up to you.
Roommate here! It's PS/2. I ordered one of these (based on reviewers mentioning compatibility with the Model M). And yes, this keyboard is solid!
There are two PS/2 adapters that are confirmed to consistently work for the model m, because many don't:
This Belkin (which I have).
and the "Blue Cube."
Correct, you need to make sure it's an "active" adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/SANOXY-PS2-Keyboard-USB-Adapter/dp/B000BSJFJS
If your Model M has a PS/2 connector, you'll need a PS/2 to USB adapter. Many people like this one.
I use one similar to this.
I'm connecting mine to Linux machines, but it should work the same for your Mac.
The blue cube is probably your best bet, let me get a link.
Link:
SANOXY SANOXY_USB-PS2 PS2 Keyboard... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BSJFJS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
This one works well enough for me.
Rewiring won't work as it needs active conversion, USB and PS/2 are entirely different protocols.
Sure you can post on Keyboard forums and try and find the best $1.99 USB/PS/2 adapter but who has time for that.
Other Sources:
CyberGuys LINK (while there pick up the 6" USB extension cable LINK)
Ebay UK has usually at least one seller shipping WorldWide
This is the one tested by Clickykeyboards (see sidepanel) on 100's if not 1,000's of IBMs and other vintage keyboards. The OTHER alternative is a Belkin but you have to find a particular model number and it has a fairly useless mouse port.
From the WW SHopping Wiki lost by GH ಠ_ಠ
>[H="2"]PS/2 to USB Adapters[/H]
There are two that appear to be the most compatible and both share the same Cypress Semiconductor chip.
>Blue Cube - [URL="http://www.cyberguys.com/product-details/?productid=4850&core_cross=SEARCH#page=page-1"]Cyberguys for$8.20[/URL] (get this [URL="http://www.cyberguys.com/product-details/?productid=4632&core_cross=SEARCH#page=page-1"]extension dongle[/URL] while you are there). Canadians can buy from here: [URL="http://sewelldirect.com/Active-USB-to-PS2-Adapter.asp"]Sewell Direct for $11 including shipping[/URL].[URL="http://www.amazon.com/PS2-Keyboard-To-USB-Adapter/dp/B000BSJFJS/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1286890114&sr=8-13"]Amazon.[/URL] Ebay: UK Seller Cable_Star Ships Worldwide - - search for terms "USB A Male to PS/2 Female PS2 Active Keyboard Adapter".
Belkin Mouse and Keyboard F5U119-E - [URL="http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-F5U119--PS-USB-Adapter/dp/B0000A2QBI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1289780629&sr=8-1"]Amazon[/URL]. Be sure to get the F5U119-E version. [URL="http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-USB-PS-2-Adapter/dp/B000ELSXFY/ref=dp_cp_ob_e_title_0"]Note that this version V1[/URL] has been [URL="http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=PS2-to-USB+adapters&viewfull=1&page=16&do=comments#post408346"]reported to have problems.[/URL]
Previous /r/mechanicalkeyboards/ toolkit items:
ITEM #6 - Foam Cleaning Swabs for cleaning between and under the keys. http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/xcpvh/rmechanicalkeyboards_toolkit_item_6_want_to_clean/
ITEM #5 - IBM Model M socket driver. http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/x0rpw/rmechanicalkeyboards_toolkit_item_5_someday_you/
ITEM #4 - Lube the stabilizers to fix that squeak because there is ALWAYS time for lube: http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/wx9bv/rmechanicalkeyboards_toolkit_item_4_there_is/
ITEM #3 - clean your dirty keys with denture tabs:
http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/wtvy2/the_mechanical_keyboard_modder_kit_item_3_denture/
ITEM #2: Contact Cleaner for that inevitable liquid spill:
http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/wra4r/the_mechanical_keyboard_modder_toolkit_part_two/
ITEM #1: A key puller for cleaning and putting some spiffy new keys on your new keyboard:
http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/wr9uy/the_mechanical_keyboard_modder_toolkit_part_one/
This perhaps?
I just bought a PS/2 to USB adapter for my windows 95 PC compaq keyboard.
http://www.amazon.com/Ziotek-PS2-Keyboard-USB-Adapter/dp/B000BSJFJS/ref=pd_sim_e_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=1GCM69CV4BD43QVSW6QT
The key part being active.
I have used this one on a Dell AT101W with success.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BSJFJS/
It's really a matter of personal preference, tbh, so if you like alps, keep them. And the lack of a PS/2 port could be easily remedied with a [converter] ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BSJFJS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1425989165&sr=8-2&keywords=blue+cube). I kept my Focus 2K1 in hopes of acquiring the coveted noodle cover someday, but I don't like the alps as much as some other boards. It's up to you, if you want to sell, /r/mechmarket can probably help.
APC Back-UPS 550VA UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector (BE550G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019804U8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KnTDybTZJYSPA
That's the one I own
A line conditioner is a great thing to have in front of any electronic device you care about, but it's not enough to overcome the brownouts and power outages you describe. I agree with SD456 that a small UPS would do the trick.
The reason why you should care is because brownouts cause stress to electronic components. Never use your PS4 during a power event like a brownout or thunderstorm, unless it's hooked up to a UPS.
This is such a load of shit.
I have both my XB1 and my XB1s in a surge protector. They both work flawlessly with no issues at all. Most power supplies for PCs have built-in surge protectors, but still need an external safety net.
Word of advice for all: USE A SURGE PROTECTOR. An ACTUAL surge protector. Not those cheapo power strips you get for $20 at a Walmart.
I use this.
I found this but it only advertises 13 minutes at half draw so if you're just doing schoolwork and just need time to save it should easily be enough. It also acts as a surge protector.
I actually have this model and it starts beeping rather obnoxiously when the power goes out so you'll definitely be aware when it goes out. Just be careful not to put it near where your feet are when you're using your computer, I've accidently hit the power button on it before...
Maybe there is voltage swing in your house. Are there other electrical devices having problems? Maybe this: https://www.amazon.com/APC-BE550G-Back-UPS-8-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1466063819&sr=1-1&keywords=ups could solve your problems
I recommend that everyone get a UPS to protect their electronics even if it doesn't solve a problem with equipment malfunctions.
You can get something a small as this guy:
http://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Outlet-550VA-120V/dp/B0019804U8/
Not expensive (actually cheaper than most routers) and is a really good investment. I'd also like to mention that power protection devices will often provide insurance coverage for damaged equipment up to a specific dollar amount.
lol, I don't think explaining modulation is necessary for this ELI5, but do as you must.
A surge protector/power strip or uninterruptible power supply. I bought this one for my first build.
Too late to help you now, but in this day and age a battery backup is a must. They are relatively cheap and can keep things going. I have a higher end model that once let me play for an hour even though my whole block lost power.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_3/166-5241057-1660131?ie=UTF8&qid=1482417899&sr=8-3&keywords=apc+backup
One side is battery the other side is just surge. Plus these devices condition the line which helps in electrical fluctuations (shitty wiring in older buildings).
$42.93 Raspberry Pi
+ $5.79 HDMI cable
+ $10.77 WiFi Adapter
+ $13.59 Case
+ $5.90 USB Wall Charger
+ $8.95 Memory Card 8 GB
+ $17.94 Wireless Keyboard
======================================
$105.87
... and now you can begin to customize it
I use this one and it's awesome.
something like this?
link.
I use mine with a mini wireless keyboard/trackpad combo for Teamviewer access to my PC
Edit: I use this but I don't recommend this brand
Apple's trackpad does, but it requires a $30 adapter.
This is the closest thing you'll probably want, but it's not backlit.
Here's an even smaller version that's hit or miss (and backlit!).
I have this one.
http://www.amazon.com/FAVI-Wireless-Keyboard-Mouse-Touchpad/dp/B003UE52ME/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376069887&sr=8-1&keywords=wireless+mini+keyboard
I like it because it's so small, rechargable via usb, and back lit keyboard.
It's cheap too, I got mine for less then $20 shipped.
This is the mini keyboard+trackpad. I actually just bought one last month.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UE52ME
I recommend using SATA power splitters.
All that stuff is.
Something like this is crimped. This too
I have 3 of these for my drives.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1541457720&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=sata%2Bpower%2Bsplitter&dpPl=1&dpID=41xGVoXngPL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1
These are crimped.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=sata+power+splitter&qid=15512362
But before going further...
If you have 4 wires in your power cable it shouldn't be the 3.3v issue as the 4 wires are 12v, 5v, and two ground leads.
If you have 5 wires, the wire closest to the notch in the connector is the 3.3v lead.
https://imgur.com/a/tW8NDP4
For the sata power you just need something like this;
StarTech 4x SATA Power Splitter Adapter Cable https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0086OGN9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_C-eczb8V3CKRY
Here is my custom SATA power splitter. The top (5th) connector was added afterward. Notice how the rightmost wire is missing, that's the 3.3v wire. https://i.imgur.com/w7FqbFy.jpg
Some folks add the main male connector in between the drive connectors, instead of leaving a short length at the top or bottom (like mine).
Keep in mind that the splitter comes with 4x connectors, so you have to order an extra one in order to complete the row of 5x connectors. So if you have the Rosewell 15x bay chassis, you'll need to order four splitters.
No need for that:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E
StarTech.com 4x SATA Power Splitter Adapter Cable (PYO4SATA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0086OGN9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lkZxybFHC9CZ1
I just bought one of these for that exact reason. Use it as an extension for the optical drive
You can buy a bunch of these, dismantle, and reassemble without the 3.3v wire. Makes for a really clean cable too.
StarTech 4X SATA Power Splitter Adapter Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0086OGN9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pQDTCbTN3408G
https://images.app.goo.gl/wbW4z7TGCrhF8bZn9
While the capacitor in those Silverstone cables are suppossed to help even out power as drives spin up, the capacitor quality apparently isn't good (eg ChengX).
I used to use those cables until I read a post on the unraid forums where a user was experiencing multiple drive failures and solved it by removing the CP06 adapters.
I ended up swapping the silverstone adapters out for 1x4 StarTech adapters:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0086OGN9E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
HDMI and VGA are incompatible so technically any adapter is 'active'.
​
I would buy something like this. In the end buy a well rated product (not necessarily expensive), and ideally something you can return if there is a problem.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Matters-HDMI-Adapter-Black/dp/B00879DM56
So I have actually tried this by connecting it to a projector. This is the converter i bought from Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00879DM56/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
As for audio, I bought this and connected it to some external speakers. This really comes in handy and I would highly recommend it because you can use it with any headphones you want.
http://www.amazon.com/Xbox-One-Stereo-Headset-Adapter/dp/B00IAVDOS6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1414531312&sr=8-3&keywords=xbox++one+adapter+3.5
Usually I just buy Whatever is up on Amazon. I've never heard of the brand but they appear to be the flavor of the month. You might want to spend a few bucks more and get this Cable Matters model that at least comes from a recognizable brand.
I'm running my 2k monitor through the dvi port. My other three monitors are vga that I'm running out of the two mini displayports and one hdmi port. I use Active mini displayport/hdmi to vga adapters for those. I picked those up on ebay and Amazon. It is very important that they are active adapters, it will not work otherwise. To setup I just plugged everything in and enabled the monitors in the Windows Screen Resolution Control Panel.
OP, sadly, you will need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Active-Adapter-Micro-USB/dp/B00879DM56
It's only $12 bucks, and will fix the issue until you get a new monitor.
From the looks of it, you won't be able to use a dvi to vga adapter.
I have my PS4 going through a projector. 120" screen is amazing :-)
You need HDMI to VGA. I used something similar to this that I got off ebay...
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Matters-Active-Female-Adapter-Black/dp/B00879DM56/
... which worked fine for xbox 360 but was a pain with ps4. It wouldn't always work and then there were times it would just cut out. Not sure if it was the cheap cable or crappy old projector but it was the push I needed to upgrade mine.
I picked up the BenQ1070 and it just works flawlessly. Its an absolute bargain right now:
http://www.richersounds.com/product/projectors/benq/w1070/benq-w1070
Spare yourself the hours of pain trying to get it working through VGA and pick up a new projector :-)
It seems silly, but I got a Micro SD/SD card USB3 reader for 10 dollars. Its not always useful, but when it is, it's incredibly useful. Link
That's a great card, very fast. I'm going to get its slower brother the Evo. You should know that if you are transfering from Phone to Computer you will be doing so using USB 2.0 which effectively maxes out at 35MB/s. Better to get a USB 3.0 card reader for the quickest transfer times.
Here's the Lexar 633x 64GB results. I believe we have the same setup so it shouldn't be too off. Macbook Air and Transcend usb 3.0 card reader.
Results
I have one of these. It's a fairly awesome usb 3.0 sd card reader. Without doing any significant in-depth analysis, I notice that I generally offload my full memory cards in about 13 minutes.
If my math is right, that would be an average sustained transfer speed of 84.02MiB/s to my hard drives. So, unless you are using the faster cards, you probably won't notice much of a difference. For $9 shipped (amazon prime), why the hell not :p. That device has my recommendation.
I've had really good luck with the Vilros starter kits off of amazon. They give you a good combination of stuff cheaper than the parts on their own. This is the last one I got:
https://www.amazon.com/Vilros-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Black/dp/B00MV6TAJI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481083146&sr=8-2&keywords=vilros+pi+kit
Comes with a power adapter and SD card. It also comes with an HDMI cable to hook it to a TV. Since it's a Pi 3 (the latest model), it has wifi built in. As long as he has a usb keyboard he can use, this kit should be pretty much everything he needs to get up and running.
You might want to make sure his computer has an SD card slot (like you use to get pictures of of camera memory cards) to download and load the operating system onto the SD card. Most laptops have one, look for a little slot that says "SD". If not, get him a cheap USB one like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-microSDHC-Reader-TS-RDF5K-Black/dp/B009D79VH4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481083426&sr=8-4&keywords=sd+card+reader+usb
Edit: I forgot to mention that when you buy from Vilros on amazon, they usually email you a PDF with a bunch of sample projects.
Camera on? Battery charged? USB port on computer tested and shown to be working with other devices?
I'd look at getting an SD card reader for the future - they're much quicker than the camera, and there's much less that can go wrong.
OP- if you don't have a microSD slot on your PC or phone, or you just don't want to stuff about copying files via your phone, get yourself something like this. I have that exact one, works a treat. You can no doubt find them cheaper on ebay but beware of dodgy knockoffs that will likely have slower transfer speeds.
I'm going on a cruise in May and would like a way to backup my pictures and to edit on the fly, preferably with my tablet. My camera doesn't have Wi-Fi capabilities, but even if it did the Wi-Fi on a cruise ship is so amazingly slow (think dial up speeds lol). I know I may need two different things to do both of these. Any suggestions?
Right now, I'd like to look into a cord to transfer to my tablet, can I edit raw on an app on an Android tablet (Lightroom?).
I'm also looking at an external hard drive for the main backup, do they make ones that hook up to the camera (sl1) or that accept sd cards?
I don't want to spend too much, but I'll probably have $100-200 or a smidge more if necessary.
Any suggestions would be great!
Edit: For anyone who's interested, I did end up getting a card reader and I had an OTG cable that was recommended to me previously to connect my camera to my phone so I could do a time-lapse (I should have realized it would have worked fine, but I had tried my dad's cable that looked exactly the same before that and it didn't work for what I wanted it to). So, it worked perfectly! Nothing else needed and I can transfer pics from my SD card to my phone/tablet. I'm still looking into an external drive or something for storage, but as long as they're on the SD and tablet I feel a lot more comfortable. Thanks everyone for your help!
What I purchased:
OTG Cable $4.99 USD http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LN3LQKQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
SD Card Reader $6.29 USD http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009D79VH4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
Not expensive at all!
Is this the new version? Thanks!
I bought a tablet really early on (2-3~ months in), and I found it to be an excellent purchase. Then again, I play osu! everyday for at least 2 hours, so I get plenty of time with it. If you don't believe you will be playing for at least one or two more years, I wouldn't recommend it. Again, as other people say, you don't need a tablet to play well. Many top players use a mouse, and some even use a touchscreen to play high level maps. But if you are set on buying a tablet, I would recommend the CTL480. This is the tablet that most players use at high level. If you need a cheaper option, there always is the osu!tablet or the Huion 420. These three are the most used tablets in osu!, but there are many other options available to you. The only thing you should look out for if you are trying to choose another tablet is latency, as tablets like the CTL490 are known to have latency unplayable with to people used to the above tablets.
As for PP, PP, or Performance Points is gained through passing or "fcing" (full comboing) a map. The higher level/star rating of map you play, the more PP you will get for a play. The easiest ways to get PP are through farm maps such as no title - Reol, MIIRO - AKINO from bless4, MIIRO vs. Ai no Scenario - AKINO from bless4 & CHiCO with HoneyWorks, and many others. The higher accuracy and combo you get, the more PP you will earn. However, as a new player, it isn't recommended to start farming PP. People usually don't start caring about pp until rank 50k to rank 100k (the five digit realm). What you should do as a new player is player harder and harder maps to help you learn how to play the game and then start trying for a higher ranking.
Hope this helps!
EDIT: I forgot about this tablet, the XP-Pen G430. It is similar to the osu!tablet and Huion 420 in size, and is a very recently introduced tablet. You can see high level play with it here.
Second on the Intuos tablet. I don't draw very often, but the surface area is more than enough to work with in my opinion. Something like this one perhaps? If you decide on something else, make sure it's a reputable brand. I got stuck with a tablet that wouldn't work on any PC at all, even with the included driver disk/official drivers from their website.....
For tablets any of the cheaper wacom are a decent choice like Wacom Intous Draw.(You might want to aim for a medium size tablet, I've heard a lot people find the small restrictive on arm movement)
A lot of people recommend the Huion H610 Pro as well.
For software I would personally recommend Clip Studio Paint.
It's a solid digital painting software, and right now is(and frequently is) on sale for 60% off($25USD), and even at it's full price is still more than worth it.
Otherwise there is Krita which is 100% free, and open source.
and of course Adobe Photoshop, which will cost you a monthly fee of $9.99USD.
There are plenty of other software, but I find these 3 fill the niche decently. They each behave a little differently, but essential all lead to the same result, which is dependent how you personally use them.
You can use an iPad Pro or a Surface tablet, but both are expensive. On the other hand, they are both excellent for reading textbooks (pdfs of most math textbooks are easy to get), too. If you don't already have a laptop for school, then both are good choices.
Anyway, if you already have a non-touch laptop, then you can buy a cheap (<$100) Wacom tablet. They're suitable for drawing and painting, which makes them more than sufficient for writing math and sketching diagrams. I have used my tablet for online tutoring, sketches for lecture notes, etc. (I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/Wacom-CTL490DW-Digital-Drawing-Graphics/dp/B010LHRFM2)
I will say it probably is easier to draw diagrams and so forth on a tablet, especially if you have decent software (e.g., I use FireAlpaca for drawing), because you can easy undo strokes, copy and paste, and move things, plus you can use a correction tool to make near-perfect circles and the like (or just use the circle tool). I also like being able to keep all my stuff without having to deal with boxes full of files filling up my office space.
Alternatively, you could live TeX your notes (drawing diagrams with the tablet or on paper). You have to be somewhat proficient in \LaTeX as well as a decent typist, but the result is nice. The disadvantage there is you might not remember what you wrote as well as if you had written it by hand. Some people combine the two approaches. For instance, they might take detailed tablet notes followed by more big-picture LaTeX notes.
I'm not sure what is best—paper, tablet, or TeX—especially given people are sure to have different preferences, but these are your best options as far as I know.
It's really about the features you require. Hobbyist digital painters can produce some amazing work with fairly basic gear like the Intuos Draw. But maybe you need more. Maybe you want to be able to change the angle of the brush by rotating the pen, or have your drawing tablet double as a display.
Don't think the Draw is subpar gear, though. I can say Wacom's older base models were pretty garbage, but I've been really impressed with the Draw. It's highly responsive even when moving the pen fairly quickly, something my old Graphire 3 was horrible at. And despite the size, I never feel like I don't have enough tablet real estate as 95% of it is drawing surface.
Given both like art, would a low-end drawing tablet be in the cards?
For Rylee, maybe an art kit composed of the following: Tachikawa nibs and holders and ink, or a finetipped pen set Deleter manga paper, and a grown up sketchbook a la trendy Moleskine or Pentalic or classic art student hardcovers like so. As she develops as an artist she'll learn more whether she likes different sizes, thicker or thinner paper, or toned paper. Maybe throw in a few making of books from her favorite series (like IDK this one for Avatar the Last Airbender or this one for Spirited Away.) Getting a good making of book for a movie or animated film can be life changing. For me, even though I read it years after Brother Bear came out, this was an enlightening read about the movie making process and has some seriously gorgeous art. I haven't read the one for Moana yet so I have no idea whether it leans more toward text (like the making of Hunchback of Notre Dame did...so very little art in that book) or pictures, but it's more recent than Brother Bear. And yes, most of us artists have these books on our shelves, albeit with different movies/series depending on taste. Some of the Marvel movies have excellent making of books too. ;)
I'd recommend some drawing books, but the ones I know all have nudity in them and I don't know how you'd feel about that. I'd caution against 'how to draw manga' books as a general rule, but I owned a few and some art very, very good at teaching how to direct the eye for storytelling.
For your younger, I'd suggest many of the same things, except maybe not the nibs and ink because sharp and messy. If you get either of them colored art supplies, I'd either make sure they get the exact same set of markers or colored pencils, or get one markers, the other colored pencils. It can be rough sharing an interest with a sibling. And maybe some Sideways Math from Wayside School (I'd also suggest all three Wayside School books, they're brain bendy in a good way). Another brain tickling book (for me it was, anyway) was the Phantom Tollbooth. Maybe a how to draw horses book. A making of book or two about movies she liked - Frozen, maybe? IDK. Maybe a Goldiblox set to get her engineer brain in gear. Oh! I forgot about Spirit, the animated horse movie no one remembers.
Really? For the price of another good software or game with DLC [this model doesn't seem bad at all.]
https://www.amazon.com/Wacom-CTL490DW-Digital-Drawing-Graphics/dp/B010LHRFM2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478125017&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=wacom+bamboo
Or at a price of another keyboard periphery, or any PC periphery for that matter (be it a good headset, etc).
And this is from a person that has once owned and rocked an Intuos 2 back during the Pentium II days!
Biggest benefit of a PC periphery, is that it can be as mobile as one's own keyboard/mouse plug in, via laptop or PC box at a desk. Though, not as mobile and compact as the tablet PC, such as the Surface Pro lines.
Edit:
The OTHER MAJOR drawback of the graphics digitizer, is the visual disconnect. You would have to track the cursor on screen and match up with your writing on the graphics tablet, which is why I ultimately was ESTATIC about the Surface Pro 1 initially, being AT COST to an all inclusive mobile PC with the periphery, without the expense or form function of other at the time of market tablet PCs.
One would have to learn this disconnect and be able to deal with it, as many digitizer users have in the past. It would not come as naturally as a direct visual feedback to writing point, but it is certainly more natural than dragging a heavier cursor periphery on a pad!
Well when it comes to tablet's my opinion may be a little bit skewed since I bought this tablet first and foremost to play osu! with, and to draw with second.
That being said This is what I am using. It's even on sale right now so that's pretty neat. Now this tablet comes with a free drawing software, but the software you choose also effects the price of the table (ex the one I got was the cheapest so it came with practically the worst free program). I would highly highly HIGHLY recommend finding out what style your wife wants to draw in and how serious she is about it. I can not recommend clip paint studio pro enough. I've used the software that came with my tablet, and I've used 2 other lite free softwares and nothing compares. It's VERY deep and I'm still learning new things about it, but for 60 dollars I think you get more than what you pay for.
The first tablet I ever bought was this boyo here. This is for people who are like, only passively interested in tablet art AT MOST. the problem with this is that there is definitely a ceiling to it where eventually you will just get tired of putting up with it and switch to the one I linked above. So yeah if she only wants to like doodle once a week or something go for this one, but if she wants to take up the hobby, I've used a lot of stuff and the Wacom Tablet + Clip Paint has been my absolute favorite
Something like this is the cheapest you will find, it's not a tablet with it's own screen but it is a drawing surface, which uses your PC's display. The tablet like ones are gonna cost a pretty penny, usually several hundred dollars.
I'd rather not have an enclosure then.
Here's a USB3-Sata3 interconnect:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468656048&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+3+to+sata
Are you even a little bit tech savvy? Part of why there isn't a real bundled solution to this is because it's pretty easy to just make your own.
Find a Raspberry Pi. Install a basic OS (Arch or something) with an editor like Emacs or Vim, and nothing else. Get a housing that can accommodate a little LCD panel like the one in the Freewrite. Pick a keyboard you like. Boom. You have your own personal Freewrite for under $100.
In terms of keyboards, you can get really nice "portable" mechanical keyboards like this one: https://www.amazon.ca/Element-Mechanical-Keyboard-Waterproof-Anti-Ghosting/dp/B01FXF7HFC/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=portable+mechanical+keyboard&qid=1574228057&sr=8-9
Find one with the switches you want, and you're off to the races.
For getting your materials off the computer, there are 3 major ways:
This is what your typical writing experience would look like on a setup like this: http://jasonwryan.com/images/post_images/distract-full.png
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Let me know if you have any questions! This sounds like it could be a fun little project. I may do it too.
Have you used the Outemo blue/brown switches before? Just curious.
Mechanical Keyboard with Brown Switches,Rottay LED Backlit 104-Key Mechanical Gaming Keyboard with Anti-ghosting Ergonomical Perfect for PC&Mac Gamers and typist(black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0747D3YWR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W42cAbZHDJJY9
Gaming Keyboard Mechanical Brown Switches 104-Key Doubleshot ABS Outemu Velocifire VM01 LED Illuminated Backlit Anti-ghosting Keys Full Size (Wired) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0QEYR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_K62cAbWPPYAP4
Redragon K556 RGB LED Backlit Wired Mechanical Gaming Keyboard, Aluminum Base, 104 Standard Keys https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_x72cAbPKDF81N
Found 3 at good price with good reviews. I would personally pick the Redragon if I were buying one.
Editing is crap cause I'm on mobile. Sorry for the mess.
Next time, please refer to the sticky! Here's the link. You should be able to find the information you need there.
But for less than $50, you can't build a board with that unfortunately. However there are a few boards out there that are pretty cheap such as Velocifire, or something like Techware Phantom. I've only ever heard good things about both of those companies/boards.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0QEYR4/ref=twister_B07MND6DXF?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
velocifire has brown (quiet) switches for $40. Not pink tho.
Got the keyboard for about $40 here. Keycaps are from Mechanical Keyboards here.
They feel a lot heavier than I'm used to. My main board at home is a CM Masterkeys Pro TKL with ABS (I think?) keycaps. These almost feel too light now, but the PBTs feel a little too heavy and coarse.
If you're looking for a cheap full, real mechanical board, the one I got for work is a solid option. Brown switches. Feels pretty great. Has a dim blue backlighting.
I bought several <$50 items:
This keyboard is a great deal for a back lighted mechanical one.
https://www.amazon.com/Velocifire-Mechanical-Keyboard-Illuminated-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01M0QEYR4/
Also this any of these refurbished mouses, I specifically got one of the M65:
http://www.corsair.com/en-us/certified-refurb?c=mice
If things are running hot in the CPU, you could also get a Hyper Evo 212.
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI
Hope this helps!
The usual recommendation for your budget would be the Magicforce 68, but I'm not sure if you want to go that small or if you like the look of it. For a full-size keyboard, maybe the Velocifire VM01 or you can go a bit smaller with the Velocifire TKL01.
As far as i know, there was no release for a laptop with a swivel hinge in the past 3 years.
However i think you can try this setup:
Laptop Stand: 70Usd
Lenovo Flex 14 price: $600 (can game even with the integrated GPU)
Keyboard: Velocifire VM01 price: $44 (a quiet mechanical keyboard)
Mouse: Logitech G602 price: $36
Monitor: HP VH240: 110Usd
Total: 860Usd
More Customization: BudgetSet
^(You are talking to a human.)
^(If you find this reply useless, downvote for removal.)
^(This project is purely for help, and there is no way for us to profit from it)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M0QEYR4/ref=psdcmw_12879431_t2_B01LXOW3UA
Looks pretty clean, have you checked out ModMics though?
> u/AlphaFemaleNerd: Good headphones.
1000000x yes. And not a gaming headset. Proper audiophile headphones like the DT 990 Pros, Sennheiser 598s, or the less-expensive 558s. Pair those with a modmic and you're good to go.
Also:
HWMonitor/CPU-Z: HWMonitor for quick access to temperatures (usually over/under by a couple degrees), and CPU-Z for frequencies and such.
Surge protector: Useful when you need it, ease of mind when you don't. Covers $300k worth of equipment in case anything is damaged, as well. Gotta love Belkin.
Mechanical keyboard: Much longer lifespan than some typical office keyboard, pretty lights, clickity-clacks, etc.
Good mouse: Same case as the keyboard: Much better than an office mouse, better tracking, button customization, etc.
Your hardware's respective software: Whether it's Ryzen Master, your SSD's storage manager, blah blah blah, it's useful.
UserBenchmark: See how your build stacks up to others, and/or if it's performing as it should be. Fun little thing.
Some greenery: Adds color to your battlestation. Nice little accent piece. Not necessary, but I like it.
The AKG 7xx's are good. The only thing is that you have to buy a standalone mic.
Sorry can't help you the words "Quality" & "Gamming Headset" does not go together.
Do your self a favor and look into the ModMic. Add that to a good pair of cans and be done with it. I've been rocking a pair of Sennheiser + modmic for awhile and wouldn't go back.
Just remember that that the whole surround thing is kinda bullshit, basically just advertising. All you really need is just a good pair of headphones like he said the ATH M50x or my own reccomendation, the Sennheiser HD 598s.
Just think of it like this, if you have a headset advertising multiple drivers per ear for "realistic surround sound" you're just getting 7 earbud-sized drivers with worse sound quality compared to one larger driver per ear.
Along with that, even if it's emulated surround sound with "Dolby 7.1" or anything along those lines it's just converting a stereo signal to sound with delays to trick your ears and even then postional sound is mostly programmed into the software/game itself making surround sound headphones mostly useless compared to dual driver headphones.
To answer your question though, you could just get a good pair of headphones than attach something like this (There are cheaper alternatives) to the side as a microphone.
Sennheiser HD 598 open cans: Sennheiser HD 598 SR Open-Back Headphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WRMZZ45/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OLj5BbS4137C5
Plus an attachable mic: Antlion Audio ModMic 5 Modular Attachable Boom Microphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MCYRKY3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TNj5BbSS22PEZ
I wish there were other options than the Antlion though. Mine failed after a year, altgough i did drop it a few times. This is still the best option though i think.
whats the budget?
and any pair of headphones can be a headset. there are microphones that are specifically made for this, so you can just stick them on any headphones you like. then the mic is easily removable so you can take it off if you dont need it, then pop it back on when you do.
https://www.amazon.com/Antlion-Audio-Modular-Attachable-Microphone/dp/B01MCYRKY3
or this one, which needs headphones that have removable cords.
https://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-BoomPro-Microphone-Gaming-Communication/dp/B00BJ17WKK/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_bs_t_1?
i use philips fidelio x2 with the antlion modmic and it works great. theyre open back so they have a great soundstage. they do a great for positional audio.
"nice"
"gaming headset"
Yeah, those words don't belong together...do yourself a favor, buy a real set of headphones, and a real mic. The sound will be far superior, your ears will thank you, and whoever you end up playing with will also thank you.
Go to Massdrop, buy a set of the Sennheiser 58x Jubilees ($160, free shipping in US), then buy a ModMic 5 from AntLion ($70 via Amazon). It's versatile, it'll sound really damn good without requiring preamps or DACs, and you can probably knock it out with a single paycheck.
Hell naw. "Gaming" peripherals are notorious for being worse at their pricepoint. If you need a mic, get a modmic or a zm-mic. I have the latter and it works great.
If you're looking for new headphones, head to /r/headphones and /r/HeadphoneAdvice. If you're not a self-identified audiophile, stick to their low-end suggestions. I.E. if you're like me and can't hear the difference between a .mp3 and a lossless format, you don't need to shell out hundreds for a set.
$80 + $13 + $23-$40 + $7-10 = $140 USD roughly + Super capacitor (replacement for Lipo battery)
The reason for this is, the $80 USD price is only for the dash cam. No power cable, no window mount, no Micro SD card.
I have this dash cam, I like it, but it also throws errors when you go from ACC -> Starting the engine. Not really sure why, it just does.
---
$80 + $23-$40 = $120 USD + Hardwire kit (not necessary but nice) + CPL (not necessary again)
The reason for this is it is dash cam + Power cord. Lacks Micro SD card included in price. (Price drop is reason for $80 USD)
I have this dash cam, I like it, but it has had a lot of firmware updates, and the A119 v1 had a design defect. It is an Excellent video quality dash cam, made in China, so it is expected some bugs.
---
So depending upon where you buy this dash cam depends what else you need.
Dashcam + Micro SD card + Power cable possible or Thinkware Hardwire kit.
The weakness of this dash cam is G sensor is overly sensitive many reported, even on lowest setting. It could be possible that it was user error not clicking the save button after changing sensitivity levels. It could also have been solved via firmware. It could also be possible that this problem is unresolved.
Also the Video quality is the worst of the 3 dash cams listed. You will definitely want to look at Day/Night/Shadow footage before choosing this dash cam.
---
Anyways Mobius/A119 v2/Thinkware F50 are all cool dash cams. I really really suggest reading the https://dashcamtalk.com/ reviews of them, and reviews on Youtube Jon from USdashcam, and Blackboxmycar.com's youtube channels are my favorites. However, there are a lot of day/night/shadow footage videos out there.
My 2 cents, with your price structure: B1W ($54.99) + Micro SD card ($23 USD) = ($78 USD) cost.
Dashcamtalk review of the B1W it has minor flaws, but some people really really like it. Read the reviews about it, and check out some youtube reviews.
Anyways, good luck with your choices.
Card I've been using is this one made by Samsung. No issues, and formated using the cam, and the format option in the app.
Look at /r/retropie - it's more focused on these projects.
At minimum, you'll want: a [Raspberry Pi 3 ($35)](
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CD5VC92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Sb.pzbAZKNASG), a case ($7-$20), a power supply ($10), an HDMI cable ($7), one or two controllers ($15-$30 each), and a micro SD card ($22 for a Class 10 64 GB). There are a lot of threads about which controllers are best - I'm a fan of the wireless 8bitdo SNES30 / SFC30 (usually cheaper on eBay).
You don't need any programming experience to set it up, though you may need to edit some configuration files to set certain things up properly. I've built 2 of these to date - they play anything up to and including PlayStation 1 consistently well. N64 is very hit and miss, though Mario Kart 64 and Kirby 64 work well.
Here's the recommended SD Card from wirecutter. It's 64GB for $23. Class 10 U3. The SanDisk Extreme is a good backup option but its generally $10 more expensive.
http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-microsd-card/
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06XX29S9Q
For everyone that think this is better since it has Switch logo on it: No it is not. You are paying extra just for the license.
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However, this is better than a U1 card due to the higher sustained speeds.
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No reason to get this over U3 Samsung deal at Amazon besides from having a logo on it while it sits inside a slot unseen.
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Amazon deal: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSDXC-Adapter-MB-ME64GA-AM/dp/B06XX29S9Q
Hyper X makes really good headsets right around that price point -
Hyper X Cloud Stingers - $50
Hyper X Cloud Cores - $60
The best headset currently is hyperx cloud, I think. Core is their budget friendly version which lacks extra accessories like extra ear cups etc.
https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset/dp/B0153XL4V2
53.99$
https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Core-Gaming-Headset/dp/B0153XL4V2
I don't know if the core it's the same as the first clouds that they made, although the specs looks the same as mine.
I love my Kingston HyperX Cloud headset. https://www.amazon.ca/Kingston-HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset/dp/B0153XL4V2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498580061&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hyperx+cloud
https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Core-Gaming-Headset/dp/B0153XL4V2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541135176&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=hyperx+cloud
What budget are you looking at?
If you're cheap Refurbished Logitech G230 I used a set of these and was pretty happy with them aside from the clamping pressure on the head. Mic was decent and cord was very long.
Next I'd say the HyperX cloud Stinger which usually is in the $50-$65 range.
A little bit more money gets the Corsair HS50 These are pretty good and don't scream GAMER
A little bit better, the HyperX cloud cores are no longer quite the "budget" option they were a few years back, sadly the price has gone up, they're still decent.
You can also find the HyperX Cloud IIs on sale for around $95-$99 which come with some extras. Sadly they're not on sale right now and I can't recommend them at current prices.
Over $100 The Sennheiser GSP 302 are good (I'm using them right now), mic is great, decently comfy, and sound decent. I believe they are based of the old HD558 drivers but I'm not 100% sure on that.
Anything higher than these I'd go with standalone headphones and a dedicated microphone, but I don't really have any experiance with those so someone else should chime in.
I own and highly recommend these: https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset-KHX-HSCC-BK/dp/B0153XL4V2/ref=gbps_tit_s-3_bb19_145ba3b0?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=41fd713f-6bfe-4299-a021-d2b94872bb19&amp;pf_rd_s=slot-3&amp;pf_rd_t=701&amp;pf_rd_i=gb_main&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=3SN4Y7JB3SYPEAEFSQVD
You want the Kingston Cloud Core. It's ~$70 right now, but it frequently goes on sale for $50.
https://www.amazon.ca/Kingston-HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset/dp/B0153XL4V2
Just bought this one https://www.amazon.ca/Kingston-HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset/dp/B0153XL4V2 to change a dying Tritton. Very very good, half the price of my former one.
The caps are https://www.massdrop.com/buy/42097 and the board is https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ABUJ2KM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_B7EaAbM1RG5FV
This one is $20 cheaper than the backlit one. Only $5 more than the waterproof one.
I've been wanting to buy a mechanical keyboard because some of my laptop keys are falling off and I find buying one would be a meaningful investment when I can afford a custom built desktop. So far, for a really budget keyboard (<$50), I have been thinking about this Magicforce 68 and this Tomoko one (both blue switches). I have heard a lot of good things about Magicforce 68. If I get this one with subpar a switch, will I be able to upgrade it in the future? I like the Tomoko one because it is cheap and doesn't have very bad quality for its price. Any suggestions?
If you're taking about the HHKB Lite then those are gonna be membrane keyboards too. Most keyboard are over 80$ but there is the Qisan ones in Amazon for 40$ with OUTEMU switches. Don't really know how they feel like and the only switches available are blue and blacks in silver or gold plates. Here's a silver with blue switches!
If you want there are also electronics surplus stores you can check. Hope your findings go well!
The Magicforce 68 is a great starter board.
The 2014 Razer keyboards were the first ones to use the 'Razer' switches and it shows, they didn't have particularly good QA on them.
The Redragon seems to get decent reviews and has Outemu blues (which are pretty nice clicky switches).
If you're open to other boards, a Magicforce 68 is similarly priced with good build quality and also Outemu switches https://smile.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01ABUJ2KM/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498711252&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=magicforce
No, that's not a great switch tester. You can get this one here from kbdfans with free shipping for the same price
As for budget keyboards, the magicforce is recommended a lot around here. It may seem counterintuitive to have less keys but the missing keys are the ones that you would rarely use, plus if you ever needed them it's easily accessible via a function layer (holding down the fn key and pressing something else, similar to how media keys work on most keyboards)
Excellent budget option, pretty damn nice looking, comes with shockingly good ABS keycaps (they feel great, not very thick to be expected but they're damn nice for the price), comes in either Cherry MX, Gateron, Kailh or Outemu switch variants (obviously, price varies), has 3 different colour options (black, gold and silver/white) and has a couple of different LED options (typically from what I can tell, the Cherry MX/Gateron variants have either solid white or solid blue LEDs, whereas the Kailh/Outemu variants come with blue LEDs but orange WASD/arrowkeys. Has a removable cable too.
I say generic because there's a lot of companies taking the reference of this board and rebranding it, just changing the logo etc. It's got decent build quality, cheap as hell in terms of price, Outemu switches from what I can tell, and well, it's cheap. Overall I'd choose the Magicforce over this any day, but it's an option of course.
Those are the main 2 I'd consider, the fullsize Magicforce is also a decent option though it's a hair below $70.
How is the Magicforce? I’m thinking of picking up the $40 white one (Outemu Blues) this week and doing blank white caps
Xpower A-2 Airrow Pro Multi-Use Electric Computer Duster Dryer Air Pump Blower - Black https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01BI4UQK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jevxDbGQCQH33
I got this and works great. Has all the attachments you could ever need.
Surprised no one has posted this AFAIK but you can get the exact same thing on amazon for $49 and it works great, I have one and picked it over the Metro DataVac because of price and others saying they own both and work identical except ones a lot cheaper.
This is worth it in the long run.
If anyone wants a good alternative to compressed air, I bought an electronic duster not long ago that's far superior to canned air. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BI4UQK0/
Basic cheap keyboard, do not now about reliability, but it depends on how careful you will be with this keyboard too. Cheap keyboards have tendencies to double click and other stuff in kinda short period of time. My first mechanical keyboard was in this price range and everything is good after the one year of use. It is Drevo Gramr, kinda good keyboard.
You may also be interested in this. This is keyboard with hot-swappable PCB. That means, that you can just pull switches without soldeting and put new ones.
Samsung or go home. I've had a few SanDisk's give me disk read errors.
Just got my G7 yesterday, I have this SD card https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSDXC-Adapter-MB-ME64GA-AM/dp/B06XX29S9Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521910337&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=samsung+evo+select
64GB, and it can hold 1hr 22mins of 4K @24 fps.
I bought 1 spare battery, bur from all the videos I’ve watched it looks like 1 battery should get over an hour of 4K recording.
Make sure you get an SD card. They recommend 32gb max but I got this 64 gig to work np.
If you don't need one right away i found a similar one on back order for $22.99
Samsung 64GB MicroSDXC EVO Select
> Up to 100MB/s & 60MB/s read & write speeds respectively; Class 10 UHS 3
Or for $44.99
Samsung 128GB MicroSDXC EVO Select
> Up to 100MB/s & 90MB/s read & write speeds respectively; Class 10 UHS 3
Samsung 64GB 100MB/s (U3) MicroSDXC EVO Select Memory Card with Adapter (MB-ME64GA/AM)
Minimum requirements for what? A fast sync node or a full node? The article uses a fast sync but also mentions a full node, and I used to have a medium article that I used to buy my pi stuff.
This case. This SD card. This HDD.
Nope, don't bother with a UV filter. It'll make the image worse than better, adding ghosting and flare.
Memory card: doesn't matter too much. I've been using a 64GB Samsung EVO recently.
If you are comfortable following the RetroPie install instructions, then build your own. It will be far more rewarding.
I just bought the components to put together a RetroPie system.
Honestly it cost me the same as those prebuilt systems but I went with a 64GB UHS-3 SD Card and only 1 Controller (I have a USB 360 controller already).
To give you an idea (I cannot provide a recommendation on these products as I have not used them yet) this is what I ordered:
Samsung Evo Select 64GB
Buffalo Classic USB Gamepad
CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 with 2.5A Micro USB Power Supply
Flirc Raspberry Pi Case Gen2
The only things missing from this order is a HDMI cable and SD Card Reader (I have both already).
I haven’t seen any unfortunately.
Edit: Samsung 128GB 100MB/s (U3) MicroSDXC Evo Select Memory Card with Adapter (MB-ME128GA/AM)
Edit #2: if prime now is available in your area and your a first time user you can use 15PRIMENOW for $15 off the Samsung 256GB 100MB/s (U3) MicroSDXC EVO Select Memory Card with Adapter (MB-ME256GA/AM).
I was getting this as an extra to throw in the drawer in case of emergency.
I'm actually using the Samsung Evo Select 256GB U3 $39.99
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072HRDM55/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_FxmADbHQQB5F9
If you're talking about an SD card in general, yes it's a good idea to get one.
If you're asking about that one in particular, that's harder to answer.
I'm not familiar with the brand, which is usually a bad sign. I also can't find a manufacturer's page for them, just This listing where you can buy them. Which is also a bad sign.
The card itself has a read speed of 85MB\sec which is slightly slower than you would want for a switch. Between 90-100MB\sec is ideal but it's not so low that it'll be easily noticeable unless doing a direct comparison with someone with a faster card.
As far as value goes, it depends on what you paid for it. The link I found is for 89.99CAD which would not be a good buy. You can get a Samsung Evo for 60.66CAD which is a reputable brand and faster at 100MB\sec. (Side note: when buying SD cards from Amazon only buy if Amazon is the seller, not a 3rd party. There are a lot of fake cards floating around).
I’ve also been having corruption issues with smash ultimate and is using the card from that amazon page: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSDXC-Adapter-MB-ME256GA-AM/dp/B072HRDM55/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549551154&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=samsung+256gb+micro+sd+card
Smash seems to be the only game that I’ve been having problems with and it also only started happening after the new DLC character. The first time it happened while I was loading Spirit Board. The second time was after playing a couple of Smash Mode games with a CPU, and the next day I just starting the game back up and it was corrupted... Then it happened while playing Classic Mode with Richter. And today it happened twice while playing online. So, I’ve reinstalled my game 5 times so far. And it doesn’t seem like anything I do is safe. I’m going to try switching SD cards to see if it will make a difference.
So random data for the record:
I’ve only played one other game on my Switch since this corruption started happening and that game is Dragon Quest Builders.
Update: I got a new SanDisk 128GB from Best Buy yesterday. Loaded it into my Switch for initial formatting and then copied the files from my old MicroSD card to my new one--overriding everything. The game play was smooth for that night. I played 3 hours with no corruption. However, this morning, I got the corruption notice after about 15 minutes of game play. This time it was after an online match against Lucina while playing as Donkey Kong. No common case of issue from my experiences. Going to see if I will get a corruption error again tonight.
Samsung Evo Select Class 10 SD cards are the best when it comes to speed, reliability and price.
You can look at these two models as they're very close in price. Go for the one depending on your region as I've seen negative reviews stating that the MC model isn't warranted in the US.
MB-ME256GA/AM - MB-MC256GA
Amazon has one for $75 off.
Samsung microSD cards are cheap on Amazon right now! Great option for using SD2VITA! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072HRDM55/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cYb9BbA3CN24B
I can recommend the Samsung EVO Select cards:
Samsung 256GB 100MB/s (U3) MicroSDXC EVO Select Memory Card with Adapter (MB-ME256GA/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072HRDM55/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MeA5BbWQD22NK
I don't know your budget, but the best you can buy right now is one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSDXC-Adapter-MB-ME256GA-AM/dp/B072HRDM55/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1535945819&sr=1-1
&#x200B;
If you don't want to spend as much, you should get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-microSDXC-Adapter-SDSQUAR-256G-GN6MA/dp/B0758NHWS8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1535945957&sr=1-1
(Or)
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-256GB-microSDXC-Adapter-MB-MC256GA/dp/B06XFS5657/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1535946112&sr=1-1
I bought the amazon version a few months back : Samsung 256GB 100MB/s (U3) MicroSDXC EVO Select Memory Card with Full-Size Adapter (MB-ME256GA/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072HRDM55/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D0GXDb4CSV9X8
It’s slightly more expensive so not too mad I missed out on this one
Price History
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Call the Bishop, these prices are sinful.
^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2FNintendoSwitchDeals%2Fcomments%2Fe38pm0%2Famazon_us_official_nintendo_256gb_sd_card40%2Ff9240kb%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**
in general, i would not recommend off brands like those...
Just the fact that the brand isn't one of the top brands (samsung or sandisk), so I don't really trust it.
Also all 4 ratings are 5 stars, and posted on the same day, they could definitely be fake, beware of offbrands, lots of fake ones being sold.
Here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072HRDM55/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;th=1
This is a great 256gb one, and it's 40$ (only 16$ more than the one you linked). Sure it;s more expensive, but you can trust it blindly.
You dont want ot risk loosing all your data on a "Boston" sd card, just for a few bucks right?
Also, the one you linked is U1, while the one I linked is U3. U3 is better, faster.
Thats what i recommend, do whatever you please :)
I personally am waiting for Black Friday to get the 512gb version of the one I linked. I imagine it'll drop around 50$ by then :)
You definitely want to be running everything on a surge protector anyway. Even if you don't have a UPS, it's good protection in case of dumb shit like lightning strikes. That said. Something like this might be more than enough for your needs.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BR1300G/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=pd_sbs_23_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;refRID=DX5G8YGTP86NACGTZ4DS&amp;th=1
It's got surge protection, but more importantly, it also has ethernet protection. You can pass your ethernet from your router through it to protect against spikes if there's ever a storm. Depending on the type of modem you have, it could technically be a direct line for a voltage spike right into your equipment. Through the modem, then through the router, then down the ethernet cable right into your tower.
I have this UPS with two computers (pulling 400-500 watts each) and two monitors connected to the battery. last time power went out it estimated over an hour of battery life with both PCs running.
Though when I bought it on amazon it was during a sale for about ~$180, I wouldn't pay the $300 they want right now.
Coming from a guy who bought a DS713+ for exactly this purpose -- get the DS416play. Nobody wants to buy a 3 year old 2-bay Synology when you're ready to upgrade.
Then start to use an off-site backup solution like Glacier or CrashPlan (which uses roughly 1GB of RAM per 1TB of backup which a DS416play can handle much easier than a j series). DSM6 has really solid support for Glacier and Crashplan can be had from the Synocommunity fairly painlessly.
You're going to outgrow the 2 drive capacity and will realistically only ever be able to put 6TB or 8TB in there until you hit your limit. This is especially true if you start using the DS416play as a media station (for SABnzbd, Couchpotato, etc). It's almost criminal not to if you're into downloading your media automatically on a low-power always-on NAS.
Get the DS416play and put your 4TB drives in there. When you're out of space there buy two 6TB/8TB drives and then replace your old 4TB's as you have the chance to.
No sense in restricting your RAID to RAID1. SHR with BTRFS is a really good solution and can take some failures (more so with a 4-bay drive).
Buy a UPS because ~$120 is worth not having to risk it. Get something like this APC 1500 (https://www.amazon.com/BR1500G-Back-UPS-1500VA-10-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B003Y24DEU). Costco has a 1500 Cyberpower (which OEM's APC) for ~$120).
/edit: clarifying everything to the DS416play model. It's much, much better.
I added up the max wattage of your stuff (guessing on the 24 switch and USG4P) and got a high value of 1000w (generous max). I would get something like these:
•This has a 7mIn runtime at 1000w, but you most likely won’t use the max wattage.
APC 1500VA Smart-UPS with SmartConnect, Pure Sine Wave UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protection (SMC1500C) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Y62GSJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QtX7AbW4TGNXS
•APC Back-UPS Pro 1500VA UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector (BR1500G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rhX7Ab65SDWHN
The Back-UPS Pro allows for a battery expansion if needed. This one:
•APC External Battery Backup Pack for Model BR1500G (BR24BPG) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0047E5B90/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MnX7AbGMCVXPT
Look more at the watts and runtime then volts. You can get rack mount versions but they will be higher cost.
If I had my computer plugged into one of these, would it remove the need for the BBU, or is that for if the power between the PSU and raid card is interrupted?
Not even $10, and you get 3 of them.
Invest 30 bucks in this, not super loud but its good enough and its a third the price of the cheapest sena headset
Reciever Audio Only $16
Speakers $14
This is my setup and I love it only downside is no microphone but I usually ride alone so it doesn't matter to me
Edit: so I recently ordered these
Receiver Mic and Audio $20
Mic $5
Adapter $6
I'm trying to come up with a bluetooth calling set up if anyone is interested I can make a diy on how I put all this together, I will also report the quality of the new parts at a later date
Here is my list I am quite proud of on the frugal side:
CALs are solid choices, but from personal experience, the Zalman clip-on is only useable if you're in a silent room 24/7, and even then (I used them in my dorm as well), friends on the other side never liked my mic quality. Once-upon-a-time, I would have recommended (good pair of headphones)+an Antlion ModMic, but since the ModMic 4.0 is a bit pricier than it's predecessors, I don't blame people for going the clip-on mic route. If you check out the link for those interested in gaming gear in the OP, you'll find a link to MadLustEnvy's guide, and there he links another clip-on that he (and I) have had much better success with. Again, this is personal experience, so YMMV. Also, definitely look into desktop mics as another alternative.
And if you are interested in going the ModMic route, and want to remain under $100, check out the Superlux HD681 EVOs or JVC's HARX700, both a budget headphones for under $40.
Few final notes, if you're looking for surround sound, Razer has a nice, free software called Razer Surround, and even has a pro-version if you need more features. Pair that with the EVOs/JVCs/CALs, and you'll have superior sound to either of the Logitech stuff, and the "surround sound" feature without having to pay extra.
Buy the following:
Plug your headset & a lapel mic into the splitter and plug into your controller. This works on any pair of headphones. I've used this on Sony's, Beats, etc. Game audio comes through the headsets and you use the lapel mic to capture your voice.
[The mic] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DJOIHE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mh.EAbZBECV82) and the [Adapter that is required] ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6h.EAbVZTRWYW)
Here is my build list formated for reddit
Group | Name | Price | Quantity | Total | Link
--- | --- | --- | --- | --- | ---
Pc | (Everything Inside the case) | | | |
$1,601.62 | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $347.00 | 1 | $347.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012M8LXQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Cooler Master Hyper D92 54.8 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler | $44.80 | 1 | $44.80 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NXLYE4G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $171.49 | 1 | $171.49 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012N6EW6G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $129.99 | 1 | $129.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OTJZTZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.99 | 1 | $97.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAJ412U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Hitachi HDS723020BLA642 | $58.00 | 3 | $174.00 | EBay
| EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $459.99 | 1 | $459.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I60OGUK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| EVGA 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $90.39 | 1 | $90.39 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYK1CC6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| XFX AMD Radeon HD 5450 1GB | $29.99 | 2 | $59.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005IUW7YE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| PWM Female to 4 x PWM Male Computer Case Fan Splitter | $6.50 | 2 | $13.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DYQRFY6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Sabrent 2.5" SSD & SATA Hard Drive to Desktop 3.5" | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UN550AC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 80MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 2 | $0.00 |
| 92MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 4 | $0.00 |
Monitors | | | | |
$744.66 | Seiki Pro SM28UTR 28-Inch 4K UHD 3840x2160 | $195.69 | 1 | $195.69 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013XWQF28/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| AOC e2460Sd 24-Inch Widescreen LED Monitor | $142.99 | 3 | $428.97 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C99MUHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Dell 17" 5:4 | $30.00 | 4 | $120.00 | EBay
Cables | | | | |
$137.77 | Cable Matters Gold Plated DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable 10 Feet | $11.99 | 1 | $11.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H3Q5E0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Cable Matters Active DisplayPort to DVI Male to Female Adapter | $19.99 | 2 | $39.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT01TO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| DVI Male to Female 90 Degree Adapter Connector | $4.43 | 3 | $13.29 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008X0ZJZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 15ft 28AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable - Black | $10.47 | 3 | $31.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&amp;cp_id=10209&amp;cs_id=1020902&amp;p_id=2760&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
| 15ft Super VGA M/M | $5.69 | 4 | $22.76 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&amp;cp_id=10201&amp;cs_id=1020101&amp;p_id=3622&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
| 15ft USB 2.0 A Male to A Female Extension | $1.87 | 5 | $9.35 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=103&amp;cp_id=10303&amp;cs_id=1030304&amp;p_id=5435&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
| 25ft hdmi cable | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SKVMHI4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Desk Accesseries | | | | |
$263.49 | Perixx PX-5200 Cherry MX Blue | $72.91 | 1 | $72.91 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NY45NCY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Logitech C310 Webcam | $31.93 | 1 | $31.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LVZO8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Lapel Mics | $6.50 | 1 | $6.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJOIHE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| FingerPrint Reader | $12.58 | 1 | $12.58 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHHP7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Mouse Pad | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GB0IF50/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Headset Func HS260 | $79.99 | 1 | $79.99 | https://www.amazon.com/FUnc-FUNC-HS-260-1ST-fUnc-HS-260/dp/B00HH3H83U
| Altec ACS 54 - Speaker | $0.00 | 1 | $0.00 |
| Logitech G700S | $50.59 | 1 | $50.59 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BFOEY3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Audio Accesseries | | | | |
$58.33 | BEHRINGER MICROAMP HA400 | $24.99 | 1 | $24.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KIPT30/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 5-Pack 6.35mm Male to 3.5mm Female Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAQD4YA/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 3.5mm Male to 2 x 3.5mm Female Splitter Cable | $3.99 | 1 | $3.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081ZBNI4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Coupler 3.5 mm Female - 3.5 mm Female Stereo or Mono | $3.93 | 1 | $3.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O4N/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 3 feet Slim 3.5mm Stereo Audio Cable - M/M | $2.71 | 2 | $5.42 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G3UK5C/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 3-Feet 3.5mm Stereo Male to Female Extension Cable, 5-Pack | $12.01 | 1 | $12.01 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWOJLSS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Lighting | | | | |
$86.88 | Studio Designs Swing Arm Lamp Black | $24.75 | 2 | $49.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2S7MHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Lutron TT-300NLH-BL Credenza Lamp Dimmer Black | $14.83 | 1 | $14.83 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00024BJZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Triple Outlet Swivel Adapter, White | $3.27 | 1 | $3.27 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HJBENG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Daylight LED Light Bulb 15W | $9.64 | 2 | $19.28 | https://www.walmart.com/ip/Great-Value-GVRLA1850ND-Great-Value-LED-15W-A19-Light-Bulb/38596922
Cable Managment | | | | |
$18.81 | 100 Velcro Ties | $5.00 | 2 | $10.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 100 Releasable cable ties | $2.47 | 3 | $7.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&amp;cp_id=10520&amp;cs_id=1052012&amp;p_id=5795&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
| Cable Clip nais | $0.70 | 2 | $1.40 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&amp;cp_id=10520&amp;cs_id=1052006&amp;p_id=5834&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
Power | | | | |
$53.13 | Monster MP AV 750 Audio Video PowerCenter | $18.99 | 1 | $18.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ETIKH8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| AmazonBasics 6-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip 2-Pack | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TP1BWMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 3 Outlet Single-Tap Wall Tap | $4.00 | 2 | $8.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XQORTO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 15ft 16AWG Power Cord Cable | $5.20 | 1 | $5.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&amp;cp_id=10228&amp;cs_id=1022801&amp;p_id=5287&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
| 10ft 18AWG Right Angle Power Cord Cabl | $2.65 | 3 | $7.95 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&amp;cp_id=10228&amp;cs_id=1022809&amp;p_id=7677&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
Network | | | | |
$33.98 | TP-LINK 8-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch | $22.99 | 1 | $22.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EVGIYG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 5-Pack, Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable in Blue 3 Feet | $10.99 | 1 | $10.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C2B81K6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Monitor Mount | | | | |
$215.27 | Arm wall mount | $17.54 | 3 | $52.62 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&amp;cp_id=10828&amp;cs_id=1082821&amp;p_id=12232&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
| Top wall mount bracket | $4.80 | 4 | $19.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&amp;cp_id=10828&amp;cs_id=1082821&amp;p_id=3005&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
| Center Monitor Mount | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&amp;cp_id=10828&amp;cs_id=1082821&amp;p_id=4564&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
| 2x8 | $7.47 | 3 | $22.41 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Top-Choice-Common-2-in-x-8-in-x-10-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-7-25-in-x-10-ft-Lumber/4082916
| 2x4 | 2.55 | 1 | $2.55 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-2-in-x-4-in-x-8-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-3-5-in-x-8-ft-Stud/1000074211
| 3" clamp | $5.98 | 6 | $35.88 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-3-in-Clamp/50214643
| 4" Hinge | $2.81 | 2 | $5.62 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-4-in-H-Oil-Rubbed-Bronze-Interior-Exterior-Mortise-Door-Hinge/4772785
| Wood Screws | $9.00 | 1 | $9.00 | Lowes
| Assorted brackets/hardware | $25.00 | 1 | $25.00 | Lowes
| Case Rack Mount | $35.00 | 1 | $35.00 | EBay
Misc | | | | |
$35.97 | Steam Link | $19.99 | 1 | $19.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Bluetooth Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | GRANDCOW Bluetooth 4.0 USB Adapter Dongle for Windows 10/ 8.1 / 8/ 7 / Vista / XP
| 19 Key Numeric Keypad | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJSAAU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This lapel mic it's $6 for 3 of them
here is a vid of someone using it and you'll see it's better than most of what the ASMRtists are using since it filters out all that shitty background noise.
sometimes it does add a small electrical hum but it's fairly negligible and for $6 it can't be beat.
Record yourself. Audio is all it takes although getting a buddy to film you is obviously better. You'll be amazed at the little things you'll pick up about how you're coming off. You can buy a recorder and mic on Amazon for less than $30 total.
Secondly, make sure you're being honest with yourself. Are you really that clueless as to what you're doing wrong, or is this just a defense mechanism?
What makes OP's mic so much better than this one that includes three microphones for $6.50? Serious question, I want some quality portable recording, but $76 is a little excessive.
It's possible, but if your problem is a "poopy mic", you may simply consider getting a new one. You can get a cheap mic that works perfectly fine for something like online gaming for $5-10.
example
For those wondering his budget in $ is about $7070
Info I dug up on the games
League of Legends recommended:
SMITE recommended:
Counter Strike Global Offensive recommended:
Valve says you could basically make do with a computer from 10 years ago but let's be honest you probably don't want everything on the lowest of settings.
----
I'm not too great at picking out parts but I'll see what I can do about other things that others aren't taking into consideration such as monitors.
So just as a heads up this is going to be tricky because you live in Italy and I have no idea what kind of price increase you can expect or who ships there or what.
Place I would look for buying bulk:
Have you also considered maybe asking companies to sponsor you? If you could get a few to send you keyboards, mouses, headsets, whatever it would really help lower your costs without having to resort to inferior products.
Companies I would try contacting:
You have I would say two choices when it comes to the OS, Windows 8.1 Full or Windows 8.1 OEM. OEM will save you about $13 a piece but it is a non transferable license and if say someone gets over excited and spills a big glass of soda all over the computer and just frys it you will have to rebuy Windows. Personally I think it is worth the extra $13 to know that you won't have to rebuy if worse comes to worse. Assuming you go with the Full version that's going to run you $1052
However you could probably get that in bulk as well from Microsoft http://www.microsoft.com/licensing/default.aspx
Monitors are another thing one can typically buy in bulk. Personally I would go with something like this Acer for $120, 21.5 inch, 60Hz, it does only have 5ms response time but unless you have very very high ranked players it shouldn't make a huge difference to most people and going to a lower response time is going to increase the price. Plus this is something you can always easily upgrade in the future and sell off the old ones. Buying refurbished monitors isn't a bad idea either.
Sites that sell bulk monitors in addition to the above:
Keyboards and mice. So you can definitely buy these in bulk but they will be the kind you would see in an office, probably not what you would want to game with. Personally I would contact companies like Logitec and Steel series and see if you could work out a deal and have them cut you a price cut for maybe putting up posters and advertising their product. But hey both Logitec and Amazon sell some really cheap wired keyboard mouse combos for $15.
Mousepads are all over the place and you can even make them yourself if you are feeling thrifty enough. $5 each seems reasonable to me for a decent mouse pad so $50 altogether.
Headset I would go with over the ear cheap so when they get nasty you can just toss them and not feel to bad. For $20 you can't do much better then these Sennheisers I feel.
For microphone I would maybe go with some clip ons like these or maybe a cheap desk stand one. You could go for an all in one headphone + mic but price to quality wise you are going to be spending more then you could if you got them separate I think.
So just as an estimate I would say without even building the PC's you are looking at probably somewhere in the area of $2,400 just for things like monitors and peripherals. Please tell me you already have table and chairs because that's going to kill your budget if you don't.
>will likely cost you $40 for a fairly basic headset
No.
get a wired lav mic and plug it into the zoom h1, instant lav mic for cheap. http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-3-5mm-Hands-Computer-Microphone/dp/B005DJOIHE
for recording audio, make sure you record at same sampling rate on the zoom (44.1k or 48k) as the camera does. makes lining it up in post dead simple. also, you don't have to record at super high rates, just set the quality high enough (minimum 128 kbps if mp3) that the normal joe can't tell the diff. or buy another memory card for it.
for agc, use it. the volumes can change drastically from the ceremony to the reception and audio is better to have that is semi-useable but not perfect rather than some audio that is good and alot that is not.
I would not really recommend clip on your shirt mic since ususally they are bad in sound quality and they pick up noises when you move since It slides on your shirt and cable of the headphone.... But I guess you could buy the Neewer Hands free mic
Might be mistaken, but I’m fairly certain DP cables can be limited to certain refresh rates based on the quality.
So for example, one like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Feet-Resolution/dp/B005H3Q59U
Compared to one like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Fusion4k-DisplayPort-Cable-1-3-Professional/dp/B01M1LERDT
This might be the problem, but it looks like it depends on your monitor’s size
My VG248QE came with a Dual-link DVI-D cable in the box, so if you have that then you should be good to go. Otherwise, something like this should be what you are looking for. You can also use Displayport cables, like the one found here.
edit: Also, another thing to be aware of is that you will need to tell windows (I'll assume you're on windows) that you want your monitor to display at 144hz (truthfully I don't know if this is a global setting i.e. it will affect your games too, or if it is specific to the windows GUI). Navigate to the screen resolution settings, click on your monitor, go to advanced settings --> Monitor --> Screen refresh rate and choose 144hz.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E/
The easiest solution is to get a SATA splitter. Modular PSU power cables must match the PSU model.
i have used regular tape aswell as gaffa tape...
a better and proper solution (if you have multiple drives like this) would be to get a sata splitter and then remove the cable that "covers" the pins for 1-3... i just got myself these https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E
Now where each "sata plug" is... you can open the cap remove the wire so it only have 4 wires and then you dont need to do the 3.3v mod anymore and then pop the cover back on.
It's a FAVI FE01-BL
I use this multimedia remote
It's cheap, works great, connects wirelessly via a USB nub, it's rechargeable, has a full keyboard, touchpad, mouse buttons, it's backlit, and has a laserpointer built in.
For less than $20, you can't beat it. There are similar options from other manufacturer's too.
I have a similar pump house at my place.
I used a cheap fixture like this with two of these 100W ceramic reptile heaters plugged into a thermocube that turns them on at 35*F, off at 45*f. The pumphouse is probably 8x8ft but only about 3ft tall, has a lid on top that you lift up for access. I insulated the sides with 2" of foam board, and the top with R-15 batts.
I have a generator, but you could probably use a computer UPS battery back-up to provide power for at least a little while if the power goes out. I use this APC BR1500G with the extra battery pack for backup power on my home PC, which uses about 300W, and it gives me about 70 minutes runtime. Without the additional battery pack, it would provide about 15 minutes.
Since they advertise surge protection as a selling point and guarantee $150,000 in if it fails, then yes, i'll trust that it does surge protection:
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Back-BR1500G-Uninterruptible/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474730765&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=apc+ups
And no, not all appliances have internal protection. I have 3 of these across my home setup, as well as the smaller ones. About a year ago, during an electric storm, the 1 TV I had hooked up to the wall with no surge protector got damaged during a power fluctuation. So I'll stick to my UPSs with surge protection.
You should look at getting a battery back up, most of those have coax surge protector and some even provide ethernet surge protection as well . Something like this https://www.amazon.com/APC-BR1500G-Back-UPS-10-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B003Y24DEU is probably a little overkill for power but will provide you with good surge protection all around (also look at other brands this is just a good example).
They also have protection policies, so if what you have connected still gets shwacked they will pay up to a certain amount to replace it.
I have one of these no complaints yet.
If you dont need rack mounted, Ive found my APC Back-UPS Pro 1500VA UPS with the extended Battery to be very good. Current load is 130w and runtime is 178 mins.
If I turn on the desktop that is also on there, runtime drops to just over an hour with the combined ~250w load.
I have it connected to my FreeNAS whitebox via the included USB, with NUT running on FreeNAS that shuts down the rest of the applicable servers via network.
Total cost new: ~$310 USD.
Edit: N.U.T.
I use these APC BR1500 UPS towers;
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BR1500G/dp/B003Y24DEU/
I have three, and they’ve been running strong for a long time. You can purchase an extension battery tower if you need more run time. They are cheap insurance, and if you only run your printer off one, it should last a VERY long time.
The display is excellent; I leave mine displaying the watts.
Your system at max load should pull 480W according to PCPP. If you've got overclocks on your CPU/GPU it may even pull more.
You can convert the VA to Watts by taking 60% of the VA. The UPS won't even power your system if you've over the max wattage it can handle. The beeping might be because you're close to the limit.
I use this APC 1500VA to power my gaming PC (X5650, RX 480), a 2009 Mac Pro and 3 monitors without issues. Max draw is about ~650W with all of them running.
Please don't buy anything with the word "Monster" in it. They are a terrible company. $179 for a standard MOV surge suppressor? That's way too much. You can get a battery backup unit from APC that has full voltage regulation for that price. For a fraction of that you can get an APC surge suppressor that will do the same thing as that Monster.
For less than the cost of that power strip I would buy this:
APC Back-UPS Pro 1500VA UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector (BR1500G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JK5-yb8DJNNKP
I've got an APC 1500VA battery backup for sale that can power up to 865W, lightly used in a non-smoking household and in working condition. Idk, $70?
I've also got a Dean Edge 10a bass and an EVGA Nvidia GTX 650 ti 2GB that has only been used for gaming purposes.
hmm, maybe a little bit, but largly during a storm your trying to protect agenst lightning, wish is near to impossible to fully protect yourself from, current fluctuations that can cause to much or too little power or sudden loss of power that can cause data loss or windows errors.
That device will only somewhat protect against surges. Its better than nothing but not ideal. What you would really want is something more like this to offer piece of mind. It also has a program so if the power is out too long your computer can do a safe shutdown in addition to the things I talked about protecting above.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BR1500G/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503203746&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=apc+1500
yeah a good UPS is a good idea even if you didnt have problems with the breaker. I use this https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BR1500G/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482612720&amp;sr=1-3-spons&amp;keywords=ups&amp;psc=1
I use an APC 1500 UPS but I do have three machines connected to it, but it kicks on often as my power in my area isn't the best and fluctuates a lot.
Any of those should be decent for your situation.
APC and CyberPower both make very good quality UPS's. I have this APC and It's perfect. I had brownouts a couple weeks ago and the unit safely powered my rig 9 times in an hour. Get a UPS with a little higher wattage output than your computer needs. I have a 750W power supply and the UPS is 1500 watts. This is probably overkill, but better safe than sorry. Also, the APC connects to your computer via USB and self monitors. Every month it runs an automated battery test to ensure it's still in good condition.
Would you have recommendations against this unit?
I think this covers everything I need, being:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003Y24DEU/
If you wanted to spend less you could easily go with the 1000 or 1350VA options as well, but the 1500 will give you a bit more run time. They plug in via USB to shut down your computer gracefully.
I bought the APC equivalent because it has an expansion slot for more battery capacity. (it's an additional unit)
I picked up the UPS+Battery for ~$220 off Amazon used.
I picked up a APC BX1500G.
Hell, these go on sale quite a bit, but even the normal price is a good start if you have literally nothing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Y24DEU
You won't see a bunch of uptime if power cuts, but it helps for brownouts and short outages. If/when you do upgrade off it, it's easy to move to something else in the house.
Of course it can, mine is natural gas, but not as easy for an electric one. I have a UPS hooked to mine, so I can have hot water during power outages. Mine is a standard PC UPS form APC, with a supplemental extra battery pack hooked into it for a combines 3000VA of power. Mine is US, so 120volt, and is a Rinnai RUC98i, which can heat 9.8 Gal/min. You only need power to run the igniter, and then the brain to allow it to measure and mix the heated water with fresh water in order to bring it to the temperature the unit is set to.
When the unit is on (and mixing hot with cold water) it draws more than when idle. If I leave it on 24/7 it has juice for about 2-3 days of powering just the tankless. If I unplug it when not about to use it, easily a week of power.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Y24DEU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047E5B90/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Here you go fam
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-3-5mm-Hands-Computer-Microphone/dp/B005DJOIHE/ref=sr_1_9?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473271723&amp;sr=1-9&amp;keywords=lavalier+mic
http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8323
Here are the parts that you asked for. I picked the cheapest parts possible aside from the keyboard and monitor. Went +$9 for the monitor to get IPS and +$15 to get a decent keyboard/mouse. Add $10 for a mousepad. As you can probably see, this won't leave any room for the PC itself.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Storage | Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $209.99 @ Micro Center
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $79.99 @ NCIX US
Optical Drive | Lite-On iHAS124-14 DVD/CD Writer | $13.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $84.98 @ OutletPC
Monitor | Acer G227HQLbi 60Hz 21.5" Monitor | $108.00 @ Newegg
Keyboard | Cooler Master CM Storm Devastator Gaming Bundle Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse | $28.59 @ NCIX US
Headphones | Razer Electra Essential Gaming & Music Headset Headset | $44.99 @ Best Buy
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $570.53
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-08-09 04:47 EDT-0400 |
So here is my suggestion instead.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $182.79 @ NCIX US
Motherboard | MSI H97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $88.99 @ Mac Mall
Memory | Corsair XMS3 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $71.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Sandisk Ultra Plus 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $59.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $79.99 @ NCIX US
Video Card | Sapphire Radeon R9 270 2GB Dual-X Video Card | $144.99 @ Newegg
Case | NZXT Source 210 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $34.99 @ Micro Center
Power Supply | Corsair Builder 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $29.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $84.98 @ OutletPC
Monitor | Acer G227HQLbi 60Hz 21.5" Monitor | $108.00 @ Newegg
Keyboard | Cooler Master CM Storm Devastator Gaming Bundle Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse | $28.59 @ NCIX US
Headphones | Sennheiser HD 419 Headphones | $48.00 @ Adorama
Microphone| 3x Neewer Lapel Microphone| $7.00 @ Amazon
Mousepad| Steelseries Qck+ mousepad| $9.00 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $979.29
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-08-09 05:14 EDT-0400 |
My short rationale for the chosen products:
If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
I went with this. http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-3-5mm-Hands-Computer-Microphone/dp/B005DJOIHE Their quality is awful if you actually clip them on because they squeak whenever your shirt moves, but I taped the microphone part on top of where the Vive mic is and it sounds great for its price.
Guys on the PS4 subreddit recommended the following:
Lapel Mic: http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-3-5mm-Hands-Computer-Microphone/dp/B005DJOIHE/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1409630753&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=clip+mic
Splitter: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MUYHSMFF-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1409631209&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=4-pole+y-splitter
I ordered them both and they will arrive tomorrow. Will let you know if it works.
I would not guarantee that one will work. It says it is only compatible with select Android devices. If you look at the list of Android devices it doesn't list any made in the last almost 3 years. I would look towards something else. If you read my OP you would see that Apple certified products mic has an impedance level set much higher than what the standard for Android is. And, the DS4 simply won't even accept it.
With that said, this one works.
http://amzn.com/B005DJOIHE
as does the mini dualshock mics like this one
http://www.amazon.com/Penguin-United-Bluetooth-Wireless-Headphone/dp/B0157IFYKA
I know it is a bluetooth adapter in this second link. But, that little thumbtack thing is a mic that goes right into the ds4. Not sure how well it works since it might not be right next to your mouth.
Another great point and scenario. The thing is, while it's true they might not mean harm, it's really kind of annoying they don't have a mic, especially when mics are so cheap, like this one.
Zalman
Or Neewer
After doing my best mime impersonation in RiftMax a couple times I figured I ought to get the ability to speak if I'm really going to be able to participate in VR. Assuming that the CV1 is going to have some sort of microphone I didn't really want to spend any more than I had to, so this was my solution.
Microphone: Neewer 3.5mm Hands Free Computer Clip on Mini Lapel Microphone - $6.95 shipped for 3
I gaffer taped this to the underside of the Rift right above my mouth. I used the camera on my phone to ensure it didn't obstruct any of the LEDs then wrapped the cable around the Rift's existing cable and tied it in place with the bread ties it came packaged with. It picks up my voice great and doesn't require any adjustment when I put the Rift on. An unanticipated side effect is that it covers a good portion of the light leak that comes in through the nose gap.
After getting that sorted I was getting annoyed with the immersion breaking plasticy sound of my cheapo Sennheiser HD497 headphones when I moved around, so I wanted something that would stay in place and ended up with:
Headphones: Enhanced Bass Hi-Fi Noise Isolating Earphones - Black - $10.38 shipped
These aren't anything special, but do the job just fine. They block out enough outside noise that I can settle into the VR world and because of the way I ran the cable through the Rift's headbands I am able to lift the Rift off my head enough to see without having to remove the headphones each time.
Cables: iMBAPrice iMBA-PS-06MF 6-Feet Gold Plated 3.5mm Male to 3.5mm Female Extension Stereo Audio Cable - $7.99 shipped x2
Lastly I got these extension cables so I could continue running the headphone and mic cables along the Rift cable. Doing it this way keeps it at just one semi-bulky cable coming off the HMD, but a lot better than the "cables everywhere" feeling that I had before. One of which ended up being the most taught cable in the bunch, so in the off chance I end up tugging at it way too hard it's more likely to break the headphone jack on the front of my rig than the HDMI port on my much more expensive video card, which is nice.
I ended up spending $33.31 total in the end and a couple of the items are listed cheaper now than they were a week or two ago. I'm happy enough with the ease of use and quality that I figured it would be worth spreading the word to the rest of you, so I hope you find it helpful.
Copying my comment in another HD 598 thread for any one who plays games and wants a mic:
I got mine this week, from using Steelseries Siberia V2 previously. I always thought the Siberia were adequate but the HD 598 is so much better. The sound is a marked difference, but the comfort is an even bigger contrast. I was originally planning on keeping both because the Siberia has a mic, but I just ordered a small lapel mic because I want to use the HD 598 full time. If you're looking for a mic, there's also this more expensive Antlion product, and some alternatives at the bottom of this head-fi post.
Just as an example, I switched back and forth between the HD 598s and the Siberia V2s while listening to Sam Smith's Stay With Me, and during the chorus when the other voices chime in, it sounds so much harsher on my Siberias. It also sounds more... enclosed, as if the voices and instruments were playing in a small closet. The HD 598s in contrast sound like the voices are on a wide stage. The bass is also mushy on the Siberias, but very distinct and controlled on the HD 598s.
I read through a lot of /u/veni_vidi_vale (who's a moderator) post history and now that my ears are opened to this audiophile world, I have my heart set on saving up for an HD 600 or 650 with an amp and dac (possibly Schiit's Magni + Modi combo, which are $100 each). But for the time being, I'm really happy with the HD 598s connected directly to my PC.
Well I did a quick amazon search for you and found this
https://www.amazon.com/Neewerx9886-x53E3-x9EA6-Computer-Microphone/dp/B005DJOIHE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521067646&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=3.5+mm+clip+on+microphone
looks like it may do the job well and it has decent reviews. As for your USB issues, get a small USB extender they do wonders, I have one and use it religiously!
Monoprice 8323 + this cheap mic.
This is the cheapest microphone ever AND it sounds good. I know you don't need this OP but I am mainly putting this here for the other people looking for cheap mics.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005DJOIHE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495467517&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=neewer+lapel+mic&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51wEH20REfL&amp;ref=plSrch
Audio engineer-in-training checking in here: it boils down to your mic. If you use a cheap mic, it's not going to sound very good. Also helps if you have a good wind filter over it (the black foam piece). I personally use these and they sound fantastic. Condenser mics are the way to go for vocal recordings, and cardioid pickup patterns help with a more directed pickup. You can effectively point the mic away from the wind, leaving the least sensitive part pointing down towards the wind (also, the "bottom" of these mics are less sensitive to low frequency sounds like wind noise, a bonus characteristic of cardioid mics).
For an idea of how this specific mic sounds in action, refer to my video here. Hopefully, this helps a bit.
Maybe a little info about the wired mic you used would help determine the root issue. But as far as recording with the SENA mic, you're not gonna get much good quality. I tried recording with mine, and using a phone to record sucks because it doesn't have the built-in noise-cancelling effect that the SENA uses when doing the comm function. Also, the GoPro has a compressor built-in that reduces the volume to adjust for the loudest sound it "hears" so if the mic is right by your mouth it'll squash the wind noise down to make your voice heard more easily.
Old spec = DP 1.1. (Can only run 4K @ 30hz).
New spec = DP 1.2 (Can run 4K @ 60hz).
You want 60hz.
I stand behind this recommendation. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005H3Q59U/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468899658&amp;sr=8-2-spell&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=display+oort+1.2+cable
Use displayport, the cable will work with the future monitor as well.
https://www.amazon.ca/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort/dp/B005H3Q59U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469553079&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=displayport+cable
Could possibly be it, it was one of the things I was reading about that could be the probable cause.
This is what I'm currently using: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort/dp/B005H3Q59U/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463007696&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=DisplayPort+1.2+Cable
Is the one you provided a better cable?
You're definitely missing out if you have a GTX 970, 1080p monitor and still using a VGA cord.
Pick up an HDMI 2.0 cable or a Displayport cable ONLY if the monitor supports Displayport.
I'll add this as well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f38sotYHqtA
I can't seem to find 1.3 or 1.4 These 1.2 will do just fine though https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort/dp/B005H3Q59U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466724586&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=display+port+1.2
The cable your friend is using is a cheap DisplayPort cable that utilizes RBR (Reduced Bit Rate). Get a quality DisplayPort cable and he won't have those problems anymore.
I use this Cable Matters DP cable and have no issues with 1440p at 165Hz on my S2417DG. For the record, 1440p at 165Hz has a higher bandwidth requirement than 4k at 60Hz.
I guess I never waited long enough to find out that motherboards have that capability, thanks!
Oh I see I also missed that, looks like I need to buy a displayport cable then. Will any cable do? Like this one on amazon? https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort/dp/B005H3Q59U
I got this 6ft cable from amazon and has worked perfect since I got the monitor in December.
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort/dp/B005H3Q59U/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1456984500&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=displayport
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort/dp/B005H3Q59U/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521648860&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=displayport+cable
Yes anyone should work. I don't know which cable I bought, but here's a good one: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort/dp/B005H3Q59U/
Something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters%C2%AE-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort/dp/B005H3Q59U
Are you using the DP cable that came with the monitor? If so, try a different one to see if this fixes the issue. My best friend had this issue and I ordered him this DP cable and everything went back to normal.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort/dp/B005H3Q59U
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H3Q59U?gclid=Cj0KEQjw3cKeBRDG-KKqqIj4qJgBEiQAOamX_V3p2VB7jmXNcTdF5mB6ZS2w0S5ytDX9IQaPp_IGB8QaAt3L8P8HAQ From what I've read, this should do you, assuming your GPU has a DisplayPort.
had the same issue, bought this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005H3Q59U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and my x34p hold 120hz like a champ for 7 months now
Something like this should work as long as both monitor and GPU accept display ports. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005H3Q59U/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521092039&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=displayport&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41nracJKgBL&amp;ref=plSrch
http://www.amzn.com/B005H3Q59U
It's definately not BTX but it also doesn't look standard ATX. I would get this or this and call it a day
This will allow your PSU to turn on without a mobo.
https://www.amazon.com/CRJ-24-Pin-Supply-Jumper-Bridge/dp/B01N8Q0TOE
A lesser known but significant issue is that you don't want to mix and match cables from different power supply brands and sometimes even different power supplies of the same brand, it could possibly fry your HDD. These cables can be tough to find and order separately, so I just use a power splitter extension instead.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0086OGN9E/
Some other things below for fans that I used for mine, but you might already have stuff laying around. You'll also need a molex to 4 pin or you could opt for a fan power supply to wall outlet, only if you don't overload the 2A.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075NPZ94N/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0763FGH6S/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQ42KMV/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071V9CQ5H/
You'll also need to buy 2x SSFF port for the R5 box and your main, plus extra SFF-8088 cables (1m-2m length), this starts $$$ adding up fast unless you can place both devices very close and snake the SFF-8087 forward breakout cables through the R5 case then through the main system case to the HBA unless you have a card with external 8087s. I haven't seen any SFF-8087 forward breakout cables longer than 3.3ft though and you'll probably have these both connected internally so these boxes will have to be right next to each other...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GPD9QEQ/
I didnt search extensively, but I did see a SFF-8088 to sata 6ft cable, but it had no reviews and the title showed 8087(maybe so it gets noticed on search results), but the description was correct as 8088. Depending on your card then this might be an option. This is where nas boxes come in with network connections for farther distances or you invest in all these cables and adaptors so it doesn't look janky with cables snaking in and out of the cases.
No, I didn't mean if your mobo supports the processor. Every processor has a different cooling requirement. So you have to use the correct heatsink and fan with it to ensure that the CPU cools correctly. Your current CPU's sinck and fan may not be suitable for the new CPU. You need to do some research on this.
I got confused about the power part. You just need to buy ONE power cable that can support 2-3 HDD. Something like this one. (And make sure your SMPS can provide enough power).
I don't know of any guides, but for the home user, it's really not expensive or difficult.
What you need, besides HBA in your host machine, is just a bunch of cabling. If you don't have an HBA...cheap and available on ebay.
Just an FYI: Most hard drives don't use a lot of power. (you can look up the max power requirements for specific drives through their manufacturer spec sheet) A 500 watt power supply can often supply the vast majority of that over the 12v rails. Your power supply can run many more disks than it has provisions for, so splitter cables are often the only way to maximize your chassis disk space. As I mentioned before: don't use cables with molded connectors. Cables like https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0086OGN9E - you can see they are plastic and snap around the cables themselves and aren't a molded piece.
The super quick and dirty to expand your storage past your server computer's space or power capabilities is:
GL fellow data hoarder
Gaote/Outemu also has a sealed switch design that sometimes appears on budget boards. Here's an example, you can tell by the stem shape.
E-Element Z-88 RGB Mechanical Gaming Keyboard, Blue Switch - Tactile & Clicky, LED Backlit, Water Resistant, Compact 81 Keys Anti-Ghosting for Mac PC, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FXF7HFC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OEzQBbQGG1RWT
This is one of the boards I use at work and I LOVE it.
https://www.amazon.com/E-Element-Water-Proof-Mechanical-Keyboard-Anti-Ghost/dp/B01FXF7HFC/ref=pd_sim_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B01FXF7HFC&amp;pd_rd_r=KFJKM9P8T6F7K1APF547&amp;pd_rd_w=BVC50&amp;pd_rd_wg=FKfJA&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=KFJKM9P8T6F7K1APF547
Edit: blue switch link instead of black
this
This is a link to my current keyboard if it helps: https://www.amazon.com/Element-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-Switch/dp/B01FXF7HFC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521516784&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=z+element+z88
The switches just look like little blue crosses. Not sure if that is the same as Cherry MX
E-Element Z-88 RGB LED Backlit Waterproof Mechanical Keyboard
Tenkeyless Full Sized
Comes in Black and Blue switch variants and you can actually swap out the switches, no de-soldering needed. Has a number of RGB features though no individual LED control apparently.
It's my Christmas present from my fiancee this year and I'm looking forward to it pretty badly now.
I have and like my Logitech G410 which fits all of your criteria. From logitech you will pay more than your budget but you can get it for cheaper via 3rd party. Its $70 right now on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Spectrum-Tenkeyless-Mechanical-920-007731/dp/B01645FHEI
I also really like and actually use my Drevo TKL more tho which is not RGB: https://www.amazon.com/DREVO-84-Key-Tenkeyless-Mechanical/dp/B01H6DHITE/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506356645&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=drevo But one of the main reasons I really like this keyboard isthat the F-keys are directly in line with the number keys.
Drevo also has a RGB option but it doesnt have the inline F-keys: https://www.amazon.com/Element-Water-Proof-Mechanical-Keyboard-Anti-Ghost/dp/B01FXF7HFC/ref=sr_1_15?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506356645&amp;sr=1-15&amp;keywords=drevo
Overall I use my drevo for the very specific reason of the in-line f-keys and its a feature I really value. However if this isnt important I would recomend the G410. But any of these listed keyboards wont steer you wrong.
Cheers!
It gets confusing fast with the naming scheme E-Element uses.
The E-Element Z-88 could be the 81-key model here or the 104-key model here.
The E-Element Z-77 could be the 87-key model here or the 104-key model here.
I don't know what they were thinking, but these really are great keyboards.
BTW, I think your twins might have different fathers...
I can't speak to the quality, and they aren't 60%, but these are really cheap:
https://www.amazon.com/Element-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-Switch/dp/B01FXF7HFC/
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-KUMARA-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B016MAK38U/
This exactly. I have 4-5 keyboards (some over 100 usd). This $45 one is my favorite. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FXF7HFC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Good question - after checking Amazon, it seems the model I bought is currently unavailable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N5F6W51/ref=psd_mlt_bc_B01N5F6W51
The black DIY version is still around, although reviews say it may not come with the neat little goodies like switch puller:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FXF7HFC/ref=psd_mlt_nbc_B01N5F6W51_bi
Good luck on the search!
Mouse - Corsair Scimitar
Keyboard - (My personal favorite) E-Element Z-88
If you want a cheap great mechanical keyboard I have this one and its great, I have it with clicky clacky blues and its the best thing I have ever bought.
I would go with a mechanical keyboard like this one
I've got one of these at home and one at work https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Velocifire-VM01-Illuminated-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01M0QEYR4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510071678&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=velocifire%2Bmechanical%2Bkeyboard&amp;dpID=41WCKf9uobL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch&amp;th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Velocifire-Mechanical-Keyboard-Illuminated-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01M0QEYR4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495321157&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=velocifire+mechanical+keyboard&amp;psc=1
Maybe this will help
Probably a MagicForce 68 (sold under Qisan on Amazon) or one of the DREVO brand keyboards (your choice of which one takes your fancy). Both brands have models in both black and white and ship with Prime shipping off of Amazon.
The MagicForce 68 is probably the most popular recommendation for an entry level MK.
Qisan's keyboard store page
DREVO's store page
Other models on Amazon that you might want to check out: (note these don't seem as popular as the MagicForce or DREVOs)
Redragon K552 KUMARA
TOMOKO 87 Key LED Backlit Mechanical Gaming Keyboard
E-Element Z-88
E-Element Z-88 (full sized)
Ajazz Firstblood Geek RGB Mechanical Gaming Keyboard
Velocifire TKL01
Velocifire VM01
edit: links
Here are a few sub-$50 boards I've tried and enjoyed:
(1) Velocifire VM01 with Outemu Brown Keys - LED Backlit:
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0QEYR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4uH7BbX2H8ZHS)
(2) Velocifire TKL01 with Outemu Brown Keys - LED Backlit:
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MS8YTYX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YxH7BbQQX7R9Q)
(3) Techware Phantom 87 - RGB:
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HTZQYV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SzH7BbZHNFTMZ)
(4) Qisan MagicForce 68 with Outemu Browns:
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E8KO2B0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XBH7Bb3MBNJAX)
Hope this adds progress to your search.
Cheers!
here are a couple mechanical keyboards for around 40$ i have the first one from mechanical eagle (typing on it right now its great) https://www.amazon.com/MechanicalEagle-Multicolor-Mechanical-Keyboard-Replaceable/dp/B01DBVH16U/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487901926&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=mechanical+eagle+mechanical+keyboard
if you dont like rainbow lights i would recommend https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K552-N-KUMARA-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B01LXD7TP9/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487902018&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=red+dragon+kumara
and if you don't want loud mx blue switches: https://www.amazon.com/Velocifire-Mechanical-Keyboard-Illuminated-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01M0QEYR4/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487902052&amp;sr=1-1-spell&amp;keywords=velocofire+vm01
I actually own the Velocifire VM01 with knockoff Cherry MX Brown switches, and while I can't guarantee that it'll last as long as genuine Cherry switches, the typing experience has been rather satisfying. The only downside is the LEDs aren't very bright and are a (objectively) ugly teal color.
Howdy guys! I've been stalking this page since I built my first PC in December and now I want to take up my next challenge and really dive into MKs. [Here is that all great board I started with from Amazon.] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0QEYR4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) I really love it but I wanna join the club and perhaps build my own! I have been slowly doing research and checking out outlets here and there, nothing substantial.
Would you guys say building or trying to find find something close to what I am looking for would be better? I'm looking for a 75% set up, White case, black keys, RGB lighting, and brown switches if that's even a realistic build or much less find. My budget would be around $150 USD again if that's possible.
[I found this board that's seemingly nice] (https://www.amazon.com/LexonElec-Keyboard-AK33-Backlit-Mechanical/dp/B079M2YHBS/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537055803&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=75+keyboard) but its black/blue keys with no RGB. Let me know what you guys think.
Hey! Sounds like a really nice thing you're doing. Currently the Velocifire VM01 is on sale on Amazon for $40.
https://www.amazon.com/Velocifire-Mechanical-Keyboard-Illuminated-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01M0QEYR4
As far as mice are concerned, is there a particular brand of mouse that your husband has really enjoyed using in the past? I think we all have our preferences for style and shape. I think that if he is using a a Goodwill mouse then probably any quality mouse would be a huge upgrade. I'm a big fan of Logitech's and Corsair's high end gaming mice. Recently I've used the Logitech G500s and the Corsair M65 RGB Pro. Both are nice mice, but the G500s has been replaced by a newer model that frankly I find hideous. I've never spent more than $35 for a gaming mouse because I am very patient in waiting for deals to pop up. Right now the Razer Death Adder Chroma can be found at certain Target stores for around $30, which is quite the steal. Use the brick seek link below to see if you can snag one for a similar price.
http://brickseek.com/target-inventory-checker/?sku=207-28-1229
If you are lucky you should be able to snag both for $70 plus tax, which is well under your budget. Heck, you could even throw in a snazzy looking diablo mouse pad to really seal the deal.
https://www.amazon.com/SteelSeries-QcK-Diablo-Gaming-Mouse/dp/B005L38SFA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494433884&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=diablo%2Bmouse%2Bpad%2Bsteelseries&amp;th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Velocifire-Mechanical-Keyboard-Illuminated-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01M0QEYR4
Any suggestions for Brown Switch Keyboards that are sub-$50? Can be either TK or TKL. Obviously standard price can be higher, just hoping to see if anything goes on sale tomorrow for Cyber Monday to sub-$50...
The only Brown switch that I could find was the Velocifire VM01 (and it's not even discounted from its normal price of $36), but I'm not sure if it's a "good" keyboard or not. Read and watched some reviews which say it's okay and decent for its price, but I've yet to see anyone recommend this board here...
Most Mechanical Keyboards I see that are sub-$50 are Blue Switches...but I fear that Blue Switches might be too loud for dorm room settings, so I've gotta go with Browns.
Hi all, I'm considering this keyboard. https://www.amazon.com/Velocifire-Mechanical-Keyboard-Illuminated-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01M0QEYR4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
would anyone be able to provide a comparison between zorro and cherry MX switches?
Speakers: Edifier R1280DB.
Go with 2.0 bookshelf speakers, not 2.1 computer speakers. These have Bluetooth, optical, and coax. Oh, and they sound amazing.
Headphones are tricker. Will you also be using them with a console or a phone at any point? Want to keep them on while running to get a cup of tea or take a leak? Do you play FPS's?
You have few different options:
Convenience be damned you want awesome audio quality above all else.
Wireless PC and PS4.
Gaming headphones.
I use the Antlion modmic 4...works fine, its $50 on Amazon here. There's a v5 now that's modular here and a wireless one that I'm seriously considering, both quite a bit pricier
I would recommend you find something specifically for music production/recording and a separate mic. I have a been using Audio-Technica headphones for years and recently picked up an Antlion Modular mic for my gaming needs.
Now I'm a PC only gamer, so the setup works fine for me. You might want to make sure that mic will work with your X-Box before committing.
Sony H.ear On 2 + ModMic 5 with a Sound Blaster E1 amp/DAC.
I just finished this really sweet setup a few weeks ago and the quality/modularity of it is amazing for the price! (<260€ with some good price hunting)
The DAC is there mostly for the mic volume/quality, and it is amazing how good it sounds. In a good environment, it is pretty close to a $200+ pro microphone and is useful is waaaaaay more situations.
Antlion Audio ModMic 5 - Modular Attachable Boom Microphone Cardioid Noise Cancelling and Omni-Directional Audio for Gaming, Casting, Streaming, Recording, and VoIP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MCYRKY3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_i5vBCb6QP7HCX
My current audio setup for gaming very similar to yours. I love this setup and have no interest in getting anything else and will be using this for years to come, or until something dies. The USB DAC separates it from the computer and there is zero feedback or noise and its bliss. I would definitely recommend an outside dac over onboard or in case sound card.
Sennheiser HD 598, open and closed back
Mod Mic 5
USB DAC + AMP
USB sound card to plug in the mic if needed
Total: $324.81
If you are looking for a headset type mic, the ModMic5 is a great option. You can cut a few bucks with the 4. As NekoLas90 said, Sennheiser is great also. Hope this helps! Good luck.
EVGA - GeForce RTX 2080 Ti XC Ultra Gaming 11GB GDDR6 PCI Express 3.0 Graphics Card -- $1250
Logitech G703 LIGHTSPEED Gaming Mouse with POWERPLAY Wireless Charging Compatibility - $82.28
beyerdynamic DT 990 PRO 250 ohm - $180
FiiO E10K USB DAC and Headphone Amplifier $76
Antlion Audio ModMic 5 $70
If I were you, I would get these instead of your choices.
Not a whole lot to change, but I have a few suggestions:
PCPartPicker Part List
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor | $179.89 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI - B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | $109.89 @ OutletPC
Memory | Team - Vulcan 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $75.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | ADATA - XPG SX6000 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $109.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | MSI - GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB DUKE OCV1 Video Card | $449.99 @ Newegg
Case | Cougar - MX330 ATX Mid Tower Case | $49.85 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | $59.99 @ B&H
Case Fan | Cooler Master - MasterFan Pro 120 Air Flow 84.5 CFM 120 mm Fan | $9.89 @ OutletPC
Keyboard | Redragon - K582 SURARA Wired Gaming Keyboard | $46.99 @ Amazon
Mouse | Logitech - G203 Prodigy Wired Optical Mouse | $26.60 @ Amazon
Headphones | Superlux - HD668B Headphones | $38.98 @ Amazon
Custom | Zalman Zm-Mic1 High Sensitivity Headphone Microphone | $9.96 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1247.90
| Mail-in rebates | -$80.00
| Total | $1167.90
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-05-23 13:16 EDT-0400 |
In total this is ever so slightly cheaper, but with small upgrades to SSD, case, fans, keyboard and headphones. I hope this helps or at least serves as inspiration :)
Best option: Buy separate headphones and an attachable mic That will by far give you the best audio.
If you insist on a headset with a built in mic, I HIGHLY suggest the Sennhauser PC360 at just $118. Sound really damn good (same drivers as the Sennhauser HD595 headphones) and the mic is pretty damn good. Old gen and that's why they are so cheap now but still very very good. I've been using a set for a year now and love them. Unbeatable for the price. Sound can be beat with buying even better headphones and the modmic listed above though but will cost you a lot more.
I hear this is good, no idea cause I don't use a mic:
https://www.amazon.com/Antlion-Audio-Modular-Attachable-Microphone/dp/B01MCYRKY3/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1535903209&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=modmic
sorry, I just thought it was funny. Asking for noise cancelling open backs is like saying you want hot ice, or like saying the ocean is dry.
its physically and conseptually impossible. mabye in the next 100 years but even that is being hopeful
I suggest the HD599 with a mod mic: https://www.amazon.com/Antlion-Audio-Modular-Attachable-Microphone/dp/B01MCYRKY3/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_267_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=2B2W3BRA74TKXAA9F2H5
audio is so subjective, this is my "reasonable" setup.
You poke the audio people, you will get "cheap" 1k+ solutions
https://www.amazon.com/Antlion-Audio-Modular-Attachable-Microphone/dp/B01MCYRKY3/ref=sr_1_3/134-1519138-2472016?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492479399&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=modmic
PLUS
https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-HD-598-Over-Ear-Headphones/dp/B0126HISOO/ref=sr_1_1/134-1519138-2472016?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492479389&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=sennheiser+598+SE
I recommend ModMic. Quality is not the best bang for the buck but it was created for this very use case. $69, there is a cheaper, older version for $49
Have you thought about getting something like this if it's for gaming?
Modmic 5
Modmic. This brand is probably the most popular, although I use this and it works just fine. The only down side is that there is no mute option so you have to use discord's (or whatever you use) mute function
I recommend getting some Studio Over Ear Headphones, and getting a Mod Mic or Desk Mic to go along with it. I bought an Antlion ModMic for the wife, and it works great. Sounds great as well compared to all the shitty gaming headset mics. My setup is a Razer Seiren Pro that I got on a banging deal almost $100 cheaper than typical pricing :). I have a mic stand that sits right above my monitors. It does pick up echoes if I have my speakers turned up too loud, but it's not too bad. I use voice meeter banana to route all my audio to 2 separate audio devices so I can just mute my speakers and put headphones on.
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Recommendations:
Desk Mic: Blue Yeti - ~$120, Blue Snowball ~$50
Mod Mic: Antlion ModMic ~$60, V Moda BoomPro ~$30 (V Moda Mic wont work on all headphones)
Headphones: r/Headphones | Read about headphones.
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They come down to preference for the user typically. I have M-Audio Q40's with Beyerdynamic's EDT 770 V Replacement Pads. You probably won't be able to find any Q40's online, but I bought mine back in 2010 and I still use them today. I've replaced the audio cable probably 10+ times now. They are built to endure, and they are not that comfortable with the stock pads. Put the EDT 770 V pads on and feels like a cloud. I personally also have a desk headphone amp to get clearer/crisper sound.
As I said, this all comes down to preference. You need to research specific items you are interested in. Try to find reviews on reddit or forums. I wouldn't follow "reviews" that are articles on web pages. Half of those are BS and are generally favored towards the provider of the equipment unfortunately.
Typical google searches would be:
M-Audio Q40 headfi
Blue Yeti Pro reddit
Blue Yeti Pro Issues reddit
mod mic reddit
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Good luck on your ventures! Let me know if you have any other questions.
PS - If you have a mechanical keyboard, invest in o-rings/pads to help with the clickiness, or if you don't have a mechanical keyboard and you are looking for one, get silent keys. I forget the actual switch types names.
As far as I know there’s only one version this model, but this is the one I purchased back in feb: Antlion Audio ModMic 5 - Modular Attachable Boom Microphone Cardioid Noise Cancelling and Omni-Directional Audio for Gaming, Casting, Streaming, Recor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MCYRKY3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ON4zis5BSS4Hk
i go with https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MCYRKY3/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and I have a logitech z906 that will be getting upgraded at some point
gods cds and FLACs are heaven, and it is amazing how fantastic games sound. I love hearing people sneaking up on me in CSGO and then nope them
Might try one of these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MCYRKY3/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493266640&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=antlion+modmic+5&amp;psc=1
Place pillow onto of keyboard while gaming.
Or
O-rings make a world of difference depending on most switches if you bottom out.
Is this one on par with this one? Or is there a significant difference between the two?
Totally agree, but booting from USB gives me many more options. I could use an external SSD etc.
Currently using a Samsung 64 Gig. Hopefully this will last awhile. Needed to go 64 Gig just to get U3, anything smaller and it would have been a U1.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSDXC-Adapter-MB-ME64GA-AM/dp/B06XX29S9Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540159582&sr=8-1&keywords=samsung+64+gig+microsd
$15, can't beat that
The A119 is a great buy that runs at 1440p resolution. Just buy a 64gb or at least a 32gb card and it will autowrite over the old video as needed.
https://smile.amazon.com/SpyTec-A119-1440p-Dash-Camera/dp/B01HMZVYLY/
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XX29S9Q/
I have the 64gb version of this in 4 cams since the v2 came out and have had no issues: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XX29S9Q/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_Zdl2CbTGC4WVM
These are the two top listings on Amazon:
https://smile.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSD-Adapter-MB-ME32GA-AM/dp/B06XX29S9Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499378937&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=micro%2Bsd&amp;th=1
https://smile.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDXC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-064G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q588D4/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499378937&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=micro+sd
It's not that uncommon:
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Mobile-Fan-External-Cooling/dp/B00080G0BK
you'll want to double check that. My Antec case fans all only pull power from the 5v, both the ones powered by the mb and the ones powered via molex to the psu. And wiring that up to USB would be a matter of seconds. I just noticed that ThermalTake has a series of usb powered fans that highly resemble standard 80mm fans, that might be a starting point.
A USB computer fan blowing up into the tower might do the trick. This is the one I use for my keezer. It's treated me right for a year and a half now. I've also read about people running their beer lines up the tower in a copper tube that extends down into the refrigerator part to act as a
heat sinkcool sink. As u/kneecapper was saying, anything to get those lines in your tower cool will probably help with the foaming.Edit: the more I think about it, I don't think a dirty regulator would cause foaming. Maybe infected beer that tastes off (which could also lead to foaming if bugs got into the keg), but I don't think pure CO2 is very hospitable environment for most bugs, so I'm not sure if they would grow in the regulator. If your foamy beer tastes off, then I'd point the finger at the regulator.
For less money than the two of them, you could get this which is what I use.
For fans I avoided a lot of the wiring (at least on the bucket lids for exhaust) by using adjustable usb fans and plugging them into a 1amp USB wall outlet (like an iphone plugs into).
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Mobile-Fan-External-Cooling/dp/B00080G0BK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473291878&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=thermaltake+mobile+fan+2
they push about 50cfm each and I can adjust them based on my temp readings. I did do regular wiring of a large intake at the bottom using the guides here.
As for lighting, on my CFL bucket I used one of these guys https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Quality-Socket-Adapter-AGG882/dp/B0091HO0FY/ref=pd_sim_sbs_421_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=0E6B9XSRB01D9H0K50VT
Just slaps right on the bucket lid, has dual on/off switches and avoids a lot of the wiring. Really depends on your budget.
> but this is almost the same price you'd pay.
$14 for a USB fan with speed controller
$4 for magnets
$0 for a cigar box.
$8 for a USB power supply if somehow you don't have one in 2018
so 1/2 the price, assuming one has zero parts at home.
Is it this one? I have that and it works well for me. I actually have to use it at the lower end of its range or it will toss my stir bar.
Based on my setup, you need;
Decent thermometer
Auto Siphon & tubing
hydrometer
wine/beer thief
carboy or bucket for fermenting + rubber stopper & blowoff tube
bottling bucket w/ spigot
bottling wand
bottle capper + bottles & caps
I recommend 10 gallon kettle, I regret getting only 8 gal.
mesh brew bag sized to fit your kettle. Useful for both BIAB and batch sparge brewing.
Optional but very useful;
10 gallon mash tun (square or round cooler + steel braid/false bottom + brass valve) I regret only getting a 5 gallon. Easy home depot built.
DIY stirplate using adjustable computer fan + magnets + stir bar and a flask (I pull it off with a 1 gallon glass jug)
vinator
Fermentation chamber with temp controller!
> The tea towel is the safety net.
You must have fallen asleep in school when they were teaching you how condensation works :p
Seriously, if you are unaware of how condensation forms, please take the ice pack off. I am going to think about some solutions for you while I play some Insurgency and chill out for a while :)
edit- pick one of these up, plug it into the back of your monitor and set it up blowing over or in the back of your amp. The fan has fully adjustable fans, I use two of them for my entertainment center and they've been working with no problems for years.
http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Mobile-Fan-External-Cooling/dp/B00080G0BK/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422167200&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=usb+fan
I built this for about $20 (not including the erlenmeyer and the stir bar).
I got the cigar box a while back at a second hand store.
Here's the USB powered PC fan I used:
http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Mobile-Fan-External-Cooling/dp/B00080G0BK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1381376532&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+pc+fan
I chose a usb fan so that I could power it with an android usb phone charger and not screw around with splicing wires.
Here's the magnets I used (just needed one though):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B1M37MY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Aside from that it just took a few odd nuts, washers, and a bit of superglue. I had to bore the hole in top of the cigar box because the box turned out to be a bit too thick (sorry Pepin Garcia!) to get enough attraction between the magnet and the stir bar. I think I might have had better luck with stronger magnets or a different stir bar but oh well.
As someone suggested I first glued a washer to the fan so that I could move the magnet around a but to find the sweet spot where it didn't shake too bad then I glued the washer in place.
I used the long bolts/nuts that came with the fan to attach it to the lid (you can see the bolts in the first picture). Between the top of the fan and the lid I had to add washers to keep the fan from rubbing on the cigar box.
That's pretty much it. The fan has a variable speed control but I get a small vortex on the lowest setting, and higher settings throws the bar off the magnet.
Now I just need to wait for my soda preforms to show up so I can start saving a bit more yeast after I use the stir plate!
http://www.amazon.com/Soda-Bottle-Preforms-Caps-30/dp/B008MB1QNY/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1381377304&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=bottle+preforms
I got the idea for using the soda preforms from here:
http://www.mikebeer.net/reuseyeast.htm
Cheers
It looks like I have a defective usb fan. I bought a usb fan for use in a stirplate. It has a variable speed control knob which appears to have quit working. It is currently stuck on one speed. I decided to get the box setup anyways hoping the one speed would work. It doesn't and I need that speed control back. I will drop a link at the bottom of the post of which one I used. Anyone have any idea what went wrong? I think it's just a bad knob. But is there something I can replace it with? The knob is just two wires by the way.
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Mobile-Fan-External-Cooling/dp/B00080G0BK
Took the two bottom shelves on mine . Threw in a glass top humidor at the bottom to keep my Cubans in and stacked my full boxes on top of the glass top. My other loose sticks go on top drawer. Using 6 60g 65% bovedas in the cigador and 2 62% 60g in the glasstop (because it's just so easy ) Also threw in this fan in the back somewhere running 24/7 and haven't an issue with humidity yet and the humidity and temp is almost the same all around . Also plugged the hole at the bottom where humidity can escape from .
Very neat, I might have to try this out.
Might I suggest looking into the Thermaltake USB Fan as well? As a plus, once fruit fly season is done, it's actually a nice desktop fan.
Another great option, if you don't feel like going through the effort of a fully-DIY, is this Thermaltake fan.
I use it on my setup (let me see if I can find a link to it), and it simplified the build a good bit, for minimal price. You can find em on eBay w/free shipping too.
Edit: Here is my build using the Thermaltake fan.
As Spizam said, there seems to be a sweet spot, and if I keep my humidity below 85% the glass is always clear. I also have this small computer fan suspended inside my tank with suction cups and fishing line, which gives the crabs a slight breeze and also helps with glass fogging and keeping mold growth on my wood parts inhibited.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00080G0BK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1414562938&amp;sr=8-1
Sorry, $14
I ordered a tiny USB powered fan on Amazon I plan on putting behind my switch and I'll leave the gate open.
This one
I bought these ones from Amazon. They're currently $5.60 and Prime eligible. I stacked 3 on either side and they work really well. Word of advice: wear gloves when supergluing them. These little suckers are super strong and when you're trying to neatly glue them together into a stack, they fly out of your fingers and glue smears everywhere.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KV38ES/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Also, if you want to make things even easier on yourself, get this fan from Amazon for $10.99. It's cheap, USB powered, and has an adjustable power setting already, so you don't need to do any wiring. Just remove the grill and glue on the magnets. You can then make a box, or just stick it between 2 big books or something.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00080G0BK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Cheap and easy stir plate!
I had some Krazy Glue from a previous project on hand, but it would cost around $3. Total cost: ~$25!
I bought this and put it in there. Just need to add a USB to standard plug adapter and it works great to get air circulating.
Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00080G0BK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I built mine using this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00080G0BK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 and haven't had any issues. Most starters are at its lowest speed setting.
I had the same issue in my CC-100H
I added one fan and it resolved all my issues.
I also ditched the Butler and went with Sensorpush sensors as I found the Butlers to be wildly inaccurate.
I just finished mine today actually. Crazy easy man- Just get a computer fan and some magnets. I bought a fan that already had a potentiometer, used gorilla glue to stick a washer on the fan, and the magnets are attracted to the washer enough to not budge.
Here's the fan: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00080G0BK
Magnets: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001KV38ES
It looks like it might be the USB to 3-pin that comes with this fan.
Source: I used that fan in my stir plate and it looks like that, too.
Any 5-pin DIN to PS/2 should work then I use this for my boards PS/2 to USB
I have a Sanoxy "blue box" adapter and it works like a charm.
This should work well, or the "Blue Cube".
If you don't have a PS/2 port, you'll need a blue cube adapter https://www.amazon.com/SANOXY-PS2-Keyboard-USB-Adapter/dp/B000BSJFJS
Standard PS/2 to USB adapters don't have enough power.
If I recall this keyboard is just a rubber dome from Honeywell.
Converting to USB is very easy:
Done!
Omnikey 102 owner here.
Uses an AT port, easy to convert to ps/2.
No Windows key because of it being an early model. Mine is a later model hence it has a Windows key
Probs uses white or blue alps.
I suggest after getting a competend AT to ps/2 converter you ought to get a competent ps/2 to usb converter if you're looking to use it on a newer machine. Nice score though! If you need any other help let me know.
The AT converter I got
ps/2 to usb converter I have
My 102 if you're interested
> which kind of ps2 to usb adapter should i get?
People usually recommend the blue cube, but I prefer and use the Newlink adapter. It's cheaper, works just as well and doesn't block any other USB ports, which can be an issue with the cube.
Unfortunately I don't have a means of testing it as none of my rigs have a ps2 port. I ordered this adapter which should arrive tomorrow.
I will say, though, I opened it up to clean it and was shocked at how little dust and grime there was inside. The PCB appeared pristine and the capacitors do not appear to be bulging. I guess I'll know for sure tomorrow :)
Nope mine is a PS/2. I use an adapter like this so I can plug it in via USB. There are some Model Ms out there though that use an older IBM terminal-style connector that need some circuit bending to be able to be used on a modern PC.
The "blue box."
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000BSJFJS
This is the one to get for keyboard use. I'm using one right now with an ancient IBM Model M, works grrrrrreat. "Just works", with Linux anyway.
This is a great investment. Living in an apartment complex, I experience several quick power cuts a month. I have my tv, receiver, game systems, modem and router hooked into this and never even notice. Internet stays on, cable stays on, gaming stays on.
I use this one for my computer.
These will keep your electronics safe.
Did some investigating. I'm starting to think it's a power issue. I've been using a surge protector with a battery backup (like this one) so that if my power goes out, my PC doesn't immediately shut off. It's been having issues recently whenever I had multiple things plugged in, so today I bought a new one that I can plug everything into without issues.
When I turned my PC on after replacing the surge protector, my keyboard's RGB colors turned on (for weeks it's just been the default red with white WASD), but I couldn't type my password in. Unplugging both keyboard cords and plugging them back in brought back the default red color scheme, but I could type again.
So, I have two hypotheses:
Gonna try plugging my computer directly into the wall to see if that resolves it. If not, I'll have to figure out the wattage of my PSU.
Daily power outage? I think you need one of these babies: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0019804U8
That should keep the PS4 running for at least 13 minutes. Depending on your TV you may be able to plug it into the same unit, or you might have to get a larger one. If power comes back on in less than 13 minutes normally though you could just leave the PS4 on, just pause the game. Otherwise, 13ish minutes is plenty to save and quit. With a large TV you may only get 3 minutes though, still enough time to save and quit, or just get a larger backup battery.
APC are well known for quality UPS units for servers and the like. They make various consumer units as well. I have one similar to this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019804U8?psc=1
It has a USB connection to the PC and can shut down the PC automatically if power to the UPS fails using their Parachute software
I have worked in IT for 12 years and we always use APC products. It is a rare occurrence to see one of them fail. I've had this one on my home computer for about 7 years now and it's still going strong.
Its junk get rid of it. I would recommend getting a back battery/surge protector similar to this.
If the house has electricity problems, you should definitely consider getting an uninterruptible power supply.
Maybe invest in something like this https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8 to keep your electronics safe.
Get a pure sine wave inverter, more spendy but less likely to fry your stuff. And we have really dirty power out here with multiple power hits a day and ours work great. I use this one and this one.
You could certainly test your outlets to make sure they're properly grounded. Testers are very cheap at hardware stores.
Depending on what kind of machine you're using/how many outlets you need, a UPS could potentially help protect against future issues. They range from cheap, 10 minutes or so of backup power for a desktop, enough time to shut down cleanly when the power drops and go up from there.
Yeah, it's been a while since I've had any outages. I don't have any specific recommendations because the one I was using was found at my local university's surplus center for $5. I had to replace the battery, but it was fine after that. Something like this should be fine, but make sure you get one that can supply enough power for your printer to run off of it. 500W should be fine, but if you do the same upgrade I did with the additional 24V PSU, you may want to go for the 700W one. Anything should do.
Everyone who owns electronics should get a Uninterrupted Power Supply (UPS) http://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Outlet-550VA-120V/dp/B0019804U8/ref=lp_764572_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417821806&amp;sr=1-1
I was just thinking about purchasing this one, thoughts?
APC Back-UPS ES 8 Outlet 550VA 120V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019804U8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_7CSFub066ETCJ
If you absolutely have to, you can use one of these on the outlet. HOWEVER, the box in the wall has to be grounded. You can test that with one of these. If it reads Open Ground then just don't do it - an electrician is a lot cheaper than replacing your stuff. A UPS is also a very smart investment.
If I were in your shoes and if I had that problem, I would spend big and kill the problem dead, dead, dead the fword dead.
I'd plug a 3000 Joule rated surge protector (like this one from Amazon) into the wall, and I'd plug a battery backed up Uninterruptable Power Supply into that (example). Then I'd connect the sensitive equipment to the UPS.
Wall_Socket <<---- beefy Surge Protector <<---- UPS <<---- Computer
Here
UPS for surge protection.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8
This is the one I bought: http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE550G-Back-UPS-Outlet-550VA/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1372620408&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=backup+battery
Buy one, mount it near the modem and router, plug them into it, and it into the wall socket. That's it.
This is the one I have. It only uses about 1.8W so it'll only cost you about $2.54 annually to run it. It's fairly small, but it lasts longer that any power outage we've had since I bought it.
My main motivation when I bought it was because my alarm is IP based, not telephone or cell phone based. So in order for the alarm to work I need internet. Having WiFi in a power outage was just a happy byproduct.
I'm actually not too sure what to look for in them other than battery size and features that they list on the store pages. I asked for this one for Christmas, since it's not crazy pricey.
APC Back-UPS 550VA UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector (BE550G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019804U8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SxnwybBDP27Y6
At work we use the nice like $150 ones.
You best bet is to get a small UPS like this one, get adapters for just the UPS, and run everything through the UPS.
The UPS will "clean" the power if it's dirty and if you have converter problems the UPS will blow instead of your expensive computers.
You should get a small UPS or two, set up one for your wife's computer and such and the other for the TV/Xbox
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE550G-Back-UPS-8-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B0019804U8/
Here you go sir:
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE550G-Back-UPS-Outlet-550VA/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1345479638&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=UPS
Can never go wrong with an APC BE550G, though you may want to look at a higher wattage one that can keep your PC running under heavy load.
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE550G-Back-UPS-8-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B0019804U8/ref=zg_bs_764572_1
We are :-) Had a power outage 2 months ago that lasted about 4 hours with 20 second blips here and there. We could have lasted about an hour and a half longer by my calculations. The Tesla Power Walls that we have use integrated pure sign inverters, so the APC home UPS's https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8 work fine for us for those few lost seconds.
Edit: This was not set-up by the contractor to act in the typical Tesla Powerwall way, i.e. dis-charge during high rate hours and recharge during low rate hours daily. We pay a flat rate for our business power, so we set up our Powerwalls to cycle once per week. Perhaps our setup does not transfer as fast due to this. I am not sure.
Get a battery backup for your mining rig. Maybe something like this
I have a APC ES 550 USP, and it runs great, but for your needs and price you should look at the APC BR1300G.
What sort of horror stories have you heard? The batteries are designed to be user replaceable and (though I've never done this one) are typically very easy. Also, if you think that one is going (it will actually tell you when the battery has failed a self test on its built in web-page) you could swap the entire APC unit out with the one from your router. Even with a bad battery it should be able to keep your router up for longer than your desktop connected to an APC with a good battery.
Also no need for a surge protector. You can hook one to it, or hook it into one, and it won't hurt it though. Just take care not to draw more than the device can handle.
And it may be a little overkill to have one of these just for a fios box and one just for a router. You'll get many many times the run time on those two as your will your TV or especially your tower. Something like this would still keep those two boxes up far longer than your PC and cost a fraction.
I've got two of these and I love them. There's an app that will monitor if the battery backup is being used and you can set to to have the computer gracefully shutdown before the power runs out. nice feature
apc ups
Something like this would run the pumps for a couple hours I would assume. The one I linked I believe will run 165w for 13minutes. You can get bigger and bigger ones if you are fearful of power being out for more than an hour.
Before I answered this I decided to quit procrastinating and set up WiFi on it. Previously I had been using Ethernet exclusively. I started a 1080p video and after ~20 minutes I hadn't noticed any stuttering.
I would definitely recommend the pi over AirTame, Roku, or similar. Here's the Wifi dongle (I think) and the remote I use. I LOVE that it's linux and until something went wrong I had it facing the public for ssh access into my home. As I said, for me the video playback is flawless, but while a video is playing the user interface is a kind of laggy. I have a Chromecast and it barely gets used because of the pi. It'll look great on your 50 inch screen.
It really all depends on just how much media you consume. I myself cut the cord and consume all my entertainment online so I have a couple of 2TB HDD's in an XBMC build in my living room. As for your video card question, it's technically not integrated graphics. It's an APU which means it has Radeon graphics cores from the video cards onboard, meaning that it does have gaming performance, albeit nowhere near as powerful as a dedicated GPU. But your OP does say you're going to mostly play older games so it shouldn't be too much of a problem for an APU to handle. As for the case I chose it just because it was from money left over in the budget, I like to leave a little off from the budget for sales tax. There's other cases that are good like this Silverstone ML05B. As for your video output question I'm not entirely sure. Although I don't quite understand as to why you would want two separate video outputs. You could just connect an HDMI to a TV and have a wireless keyboard like the Logitech K400 or something more like a remote like the Favi Mini Keyboard.
I own a Boxee Box, 1st Gen AppleTV running crystalbuntu (Linux w/ XMBC + CrystalHD/1080p support) and a little set-top PC running Plex.
Here is my consensus.
Easiest:
If you primarily want to watch streaming content like Netflix, Vudu movie rentals, and other various content from the web, the boxee is a real winner. It organizes and helps you locate content from around the web and puts it into and easy to use 10ft interface. The keyboard isn't backlit which is annoying, and the interface can slow down a bit during load.
I've also found that every once in a while it needs a reboot just because. (Especially after a larger movie like 1080i)
Also, Boxee Box sucks for large high quality files. It locks up with 1080p .ts files, (or at least takes 1-4minutes to load) and lots of .mkv files make it cry/slideshow. Most content on the web is 720p or less.
Moderate skills:
If you primarily watch video content that you have downloaded, a set-top pc is (IMO) the winner. You can put in hardware that can actually handle 1080p without croaking. Your selection of input devices is much, much larger, and you don't have to worry about something coming out that your device can't support.
The other advantage is that you can set up that set-top pc to be your media downloading/storing device. Transmission, Sabnzbd+ w/ Sickbeard + Couchpotato + Headphones can automate the entire process and give you what amounts to an internet based DVR (With music too.) You could even install Subsonic and serve the music to your phone to stream while you're away.
Tech savvy:
If you watch mostly local content, but also want to be able to rent stuff easily, a 1st gen AppleTV with crystalbuntu is the best/cheapest solution. You can pick up a used ATV for around $50 on craigslist and get a CrystalHD card for ~$40. This will handle 1080p files for less than $100 as long as you have some technical know-how and a free usb stick >4GB (Or don't mind formatting the internal HDD) You can even remove the USB stick and boot into ATV to use their rental service for instant access to films giving you a sort of "Best of both worlds"
Of course, with all it's strengths, a set-top PC/Hacked ATV requires you to build/install/configure/modify all of it. For many people, that alone is the killer feature of a boxee box.
There are several threads at the Boxee forums that comment on this issue. Plenty of Boxee Box owners have found success using various wireless keyboards and mice. There are also a few wireless keyboard/touchpad combos that are popular as well:
I'm planning on getting one of those after Christmas. We're starting to see the value in having the Boxee as a convenient web browser when we're sitting on the sofa relaxing at night.
Something like this, then? http://www.amazon.com/Noah-Company-MediaGate-GP-IR02BK-Ultimate/dp/B000W5GK5C/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1312847837&amp;sr=8-4
Or, you could always get a mini wireless keyboard: http://www.amazon.com/Rii-Wireless-Keyboard-Touchpad-RT-MWK01/dp/B003UE52ME/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1312847837&amp;sr=8-9
Just make sure whatever remote you pick out allows you to reconfigure the buttons. Otherwise, you may be stuck using it with a specific piece of software.
This one right here works awesome. I got it on amazon for 30 bucks Here
http://www.amazon.com/Rii-Wireless-Keyboard-Touchpad-RT-MWK01/dp/B003UE52ME/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1310147333&amp;sr=8-11
I got one of these, its not bluetooth, but there is a bluetooth variant, here
http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Bluetooth-Wireless-Keyboard-Built-/dp/B004I4UQE4/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1310147378&amp;sr=1-4
edit * oops im an idiot, and saw that you DONT want a keyboard, ignore me.
Put the second monitor on a lazy Susan on the edge of his desk so he can rotate the screen and watch Netflix in bed on his computer. Should only cost $2 and vastly increases quality of life :D
Other things:
-- Ties for wire management - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_jqgbub0823QYK
-- Rotating Power strip and duct tape to tape that shit to the underside of the desk (beer will be spilled at some point) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JEACFK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Xxgbub0E3RY3J
-- Computer lock and cable to stop pesky thieves
-- LEDs that are daisy-chained and can be plugged into a USB
-- A USB hub for all his gadgets
-- Wireless bluetooth speaker (many uses outside of his normal computing)
-- Microsoft ergonomic keyboard 4000 - most comfortable keyboard ever - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SUIM4E/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Nygbub1ZK53VH
-- Bluetooth touch mouse - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0093H4VBU/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_9wgbub1542WT5
-- Exercise ball chair (also, with that weight limit... Lots of fun can be had doing.. Activities.. Of all sorts... Ahem..) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DG9KIE0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_wrgbub07AKZHX
-- Some sweet headphones - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008XEYT48/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Gugbub07RHAXS
-- A handheld wireless keyboard/mouse (not what you think, this is badass. I have one. He can use it for presentations and stuff too) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UE52ME/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Kvgbub004D1EF
-- Go to a pawn shop and get a third computer monitor (make sure his gfx card can handle it)
-- USB can cooler or 'hot plate' that keeps either your can of beer cool or your coffee warm
Anything with a link I own and definitely recommend.
Sure.
So I used this as a guide.
The petRockBlog and /r/raspberry_pi were also helpful resources.
I bought a Raspberry Pi B+ Complete Starter Kit, 2 Buffalo Classic USB Gamepads, and Zune A/V Output Cable. The A/V cable has to be compatible with a Zune, some A/V cables like this won't work. I learned that the hard way. I also bought a Mini Wireless Keyboard. A keyboard is required for the setup (any keyboard will do). I got the mini keyboard so I could have a keyboard in my car to troubleshoot potential issues while on the road. It's optional, but I recommend it.
Then I just followed the guide (mentioned above) to set up the RasPi with RetroPi, then plugged in all the cables, and bam I had a retro game console in my car.
NOTE: Instead of the 2.5A Power Supply included in the kit I used a standard micro usb cable plugged into a USB slot in the center console to power the RasPi.
please update with how it goes :) the cable I was using was actually a Y cable, one end to power the screen, one end to power the pi with the antenna getting power from usb on the pi. It kept warning me about power along with hanging that couldn't be explained by software issues, so i set the screen aside and used the pi in another project. really wanting to try it out again since I really like the mobile pi concept. i even got a wireless usb mini keyboard for it, but just use it as a remote now lol. here is the model i got. it works super well for what it is intended for, and the build quality is decent for the price. it is rechargeable so it can take a load off the pi
All I can find is something similar: http://www.amazon.com/FAVI-FE01-BL-Wireless-Keyboard-Touchpad/dp/B003UE52ME
but it has some more features you don't really need so it probably makes it too big, or too costly if it's to remove the parts you don't need...
Got everything!
The Raspberry Pi:
$35
The monitor:
$16
The keyboard + trackpad:
$20
Power supply:
$10
USB hub:
$18
Wi-Fi Dongle:
$10
Total cost: $109, not including taxes/shipping. Not bad for essentially a mini laptop. Get a nice big USB stick for a "hard disk", make a big enough swap partition, and it'll run fairly well, too. Or I could get an actual hard disk, but... This 128GB SSD would almost double the price of the whole thing.
The Raspberry Pi is essentially a tiny low power computer. There are two models, one with 256 MB of RAM and another with 512 MB of RAM. A lot of people use them to play/stream movies and music but there are thousands of things you can do with them. The 512 MB model the model "B" is about $35.
XBMC, formerly known as Xbox Media Center was originally software that was loaded onto original Xbox hardware and was used to play/stream movies and music for home theater setups. Now it just goes by XBMC but serves the same function. There are distributions that run on Windows and Linux, and even stand-alone packages that run on their own.
There is even a distribution of XBMC developed specifically for the Raspberry Pi model B called Raspbmc. You download it from the website and load it onto an SD card using provided tools and stick it in the Raspberry Pi. The Pi boots up and goes right into Raspbmc.
The Pi features the aforementioned SD card slot, two USB2.0 ports for use with a keyboard, mouse, and/or storage device containing media, a 100 Mb Ethernet port, HDMI out, composite (yellow) video out, 3.5 mm jack out for audio, and a microUSB port used to power it.
For my setup I have the model B Pi with a Raspbmc on an SD card and a small wireless media keyboard similar to this. I have the HDMI go to my surround receiver and the Ethernet hooked up to my network where movies and music can be accessed from my file server.
Despite its size and low power consumption it is capable of playing movies at 1080p and 5.1 surround sound over the network with absolutely no issue. It is quite a remarkable device. And for around $50 you can do essentially the same thing.
I found this on amazon. Possibly a little bigger than what you're looking for though. I use this with my pi. The touchpad is a bit annoying when trying to type while holding it though.
I've been eyeing one of these little things ever since I got my Raspberry Pi.
If you can't find a touch screen in your price range, this wireless keyboard would be an alternative.
http://www.amazon.com/FAVI-Entertainment-Wireless-Keyboard-TouchPad/dp/B003UE52ME/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1368927380&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=mini+keyboard
Just ordered one of these from Amazon.
Depends on how much typing you do. I do minimal typing--usually when doing youtube searches on XBMC only.
I ended up getting one of these models. They have a bluetooth and a 2.4 ghz version. I took a chance with this because one important factor I eventually realized is that it's nice if it's backlit when watching in a dark environment.
Major name-branded ones like the Lenovo Wireless keyboard is nice, but it didn't have back lighting and it didn't have function keys. The Logitech one is pretty expensive, too.
Anyway, the one I ended up with is not bad--some accuracy problems with the trackpad, but manageable enough and doesn't really frustrate me. YMMV!
When I first setup my main HTPC I used a Logitech K400, and after using all of the following:
My wife still says she preferred the original K400 keyboard.
My computer only has 2 sata power plugs, but I have 8 drives that use sata power. I got a couple of these
https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E/
You can get one of these, that isn't molded, and just remove the 3.3v wire, if you want to have it handy for this kind of drive, if you dont want to use a molex adaptor
StarTech 4X SATA Power Splitter Adapter Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0086OGN9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kZE3CbNH7J2V8
The 3.3v wire is the one closest to the "L" on the plug part.
With this kind, you can always keep the wire, and put it back in later if you need it.
You can buy this kind and take the plugs off. And add them to your existing wires too! That's how I made mine that are exactly the right length for all 6 drives in my case. You just need a small flathead and patience. Or a normal punch down tool
here you go
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=3JQ9KGX4KQGAF3PX0Y42
use splitters. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E
That makes it a bit more difficult. I would need to see a picture of the inside of your computer.
Basically you are looking to see if there is an additional power cable in the case that looks like this. It should be attached to the chord that is attached to your SSD that is already in the computer.
If there is an extra power port already available then you will just need to buy an additional data cable to install the new HDD.
Here is a pretty simple brake down on how to do the rest. I would watch a YouTube video as well to see the whole process in action. You will need to buy some screws to secure the HDD to the slots in the computer. Ask a local computer store, they will be able to help.
It is basically close to plug and play, like an external drive, but a few extra steps and it is internal.
What wattage is your PSU? SSDs don't take much power, so you could probably use a splitter. Also, don't your SATA power cables have multiple connectors on each cable? The ones that came with my PSU look like the ones in this picture:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E/ref=pd_lpo_147_lp_img_4?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=MXNGKRM3TBJEM0N5YYM4
You can get SATA power splitters; ex: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E
That power supply has a whopping 6 SATA outputs. You should be able to use 2 or 3 of these with no problem: StarTech.com 4 Outlet SATA Power Splitter Adapter Cable - SATA Splitter Cable - SATA Adapter - Black - SATA Splitter - (PYO4SATA)
I would be hesitant to chain them all together into an 11x cable. Is there some particular reason why you need a single cable for all your drives?
You want to get well made ones. Look for brand names, not the cheapest you can find. The problem ones are the really cheap ones, which are characterized by molded SATA connectors - the wires terminate inside the molded SATA power plug. [These ones are very unreliable.](
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-3-Pack-Molex-Power/dp/B00STNUB04/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3D7AP1AE1TFLT&amp;keywords=molex+to+sata+power+adapter&amp;qid=1555423096&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=molex+to+sata&amp;sr=8-3)
Edit: I use "cheap" too much here, there are good inexpensive ones such as I link below, so don't use price as a rating.
The good ones sort of clamp onto the wires. or have crimped pins.
Here's a video that shows what to look for: https://youtu.be/TataDaUNEFc
Not saying you should do it, just showing you you can get up to 4 way splitters: https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-B5196-Power-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B0086OGN9E
those do anything except take your money. they do make HDMI to VGA adapters but they require a chip to convert the signal from digital to analog and it also raises the cost:
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-Active-Adapter/dp/B00879DM56/
if the HDMI-> VGA adapter doesnt have a little box thingy to contain the converter chip, its (probably) a piece of trash. (some of them make the chip really small and it just looks like a bulky plug)
also, you will loose a little quality due to the conversion.
Are you sure this HDMI-VGA converter actually works?
It's digital to analogue, those are more expensive and you can easily mistake it, if you don't know what you're looking for.
This is not what you want - this is for graphics cards that can output digital signal through VGA to digital monitor coming in through HDMI.
I believe this would be what you need (or similar): HDMI in, converter box, VGA out.
You would need an external HDMI to VGA converter box or an active adapter as the signals are incompatible. Something like this would work.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Active-Adapter-Micro-USB/dp/B00879DM56 maybe with this
Alternatively, you could look to get an VGA to HDMI converter or just a cord with one side HDMI and one side VGA. Note that the latter cable apparently only works if your source is using VGA out.
From there, you would just need to figure out how you want to do the audio. Either 3.5mm, optical, separate speakers, etc.
EDIT: Looking back on it, this option would probably more messy in terms of cords, but maybe save you a little bit of money.
and if those don't work, here is one that my workplace uses and seems to be fine (although it may need power from a usb port that it comes with). you can look on amazon or anywhere for cheap ones like this if you need them.
You can use an adapter , like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Active-Adapter-Micro-USB/dp/B00879DM56
or find another with similar price, that suits your needs. There are a lot of different adapters, like HDMI to VGA, VGA to DVI, DVI to DisplayPort, you name it. Of course, you are limited to the weakest component, it will still behave like a VGA, but the adapter will convert it to a HDMI port.
Cable Matters Active HDMI to VGA Adapter with Micro-USB Power in Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00879DM56/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZIsazbF7Y700Z works just fine with the pi, and it's not exactly expensive.
HDMI contains no analog signal so it is not possible for any combination of passive adapters and/or cables to convert it to VGA.
Active adapters work because they use DSPs and DACs to convert from one standard to the other, but of course they are more expensive than passive cables.
So do you know what kind of adapter you got?
Right one
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Active-Adapter-Micro-USB/dp/B00879DM56
I literally have your second "Here" (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Matters-Active-Female-Adapter-Black/dp/B00879DM56/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414947253&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=vga+adapter+power) and it requires the micro-usb power supply. The one you currently have will not work.
Edit: I recommend getting the vga converter WITH audio. I made that simple mistake and had to buy a WHOLE other adapter for sound.
Yeah, you're fine. get either adapter and go for it. If you're worried about it not working buy this one and forget about it. It's not like using an active adapter is gonna make anything worse.
They make HDMI to VGA adapters, like this ONE
Less than half the price equivalent at Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Active-Adapter-Micro-USB/dp/B00879DM56
He'll need a VGA converter to HDMI. I have that one and I'm pretty sure it works both ways. And he'll need a HDMI to DP converter.
There are 5 different DVI connectors.
The rx460 uses DVI-D
So to connect to rhe monitor you want youll need an adaptor
hdmi to vga
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Active-Adapter-Micro-USB/dp/B00879DM56
DP to VGA
https://www.amazon.com/VicTsing-Gold-plated-DisplayPort-Adapter-Macbook/dp/B00K49SZTK/
display port to dvi-d
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort/dp/B004C9M7UG/
Or
hdmi to dvi-d
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDMI-DVI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY/
Any of these would work.
You bought the wrong cable. Use a VGA to HDMI converter. HDMI male to VGA female.
Like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00879DM56?gclid=CJXo8_-3scsCFdgUgQods1kMuA
Get a new monitor?
I'm actually being serious here. You've got a decent video card that has technology that moved past the analog VGA signal, that's why they don't include it anymore. Not like it would take up any more room (they could use a DVI-I instead of DVI-D). Do yourself a favor and upgrade your monitor too.
If you just need a picture, I've used http://amzn.com/B00879DM56 before. Don't expect much though.
A USB card reader like this would be easier to use and portable.
Get one of these or one of these or these.
Put your backup microSD in it, insert it into a USB port on your RPi. As root from a terminal window, type
dd_rescue -f /dev/sda /dev/sdb
You'll have an exact copy (and you'll be wishing there was a USB 3.0 port on your RPi.)
I don't know, that looks pretty pricey.
[This is the]
(http://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Information-Card-Reader-TS-RDF5K/dp/B009D79VH4/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1397960388&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=sd+card+reader) cheapest one of possible quality I could find. 10 bucks cheaper, and more compact
You're going to need an app to edit RAW formats
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tssystems.photomate2&amp;hl=en
You're going to need to root your device.
You're going to need an OTG cable.
http://www.amazon.com/eForCity%C2%AE-Micro-USB-OTG-Adapter/dp/B005QX7KYU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408955494&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=otg+cable
You're going to need to install something to automatically mount/dismount your sd/cf card.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=eu.chainfire.stickmount&amp;hl=en
You're going to need to find a usb->whateveryouusetostoreyourpicturesprobablyanSDcard
http://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Information-Card-Reader-TS-RDF5K/dp/B009D79VH4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408955463&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=sd+card+reader
No it's not impossible.
Total cost<Surface Pro
I dont often need a cardreader but when I do I never have one available.
USB 3.0 card reader which comes in very handy.
https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-microSDHC-Reader-TS-RDF5K-Black/dp/B009D79VH4/
Hiya,
ok so ive put together a bunch of amazon link of what you need (US amazon as im in the UK)
Raspberry PI B+:
http://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-Model-512MB-Computer/dp/B00LPESRUK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458167372&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=raspberry+pi+b%2B
Case:
http://www.amazon.com/Mudder-Protective-Cover-Screw-Raspberry/dp/B01AVT9IWK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458167372&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;keywords=raspberry+pi+b%2B&amp;psc=1
Snes Style USB Controller:
http://www.amazon.com/Retro-Nintendo-Controller-Windows-Purple/dp/B016MEFRFU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458167421&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=usb+sneshttp://www.amazon.com/Retro-Nintendo-Controller-Windows-Purple/dp/B016MEFRFU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458167421&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=usb+snes
HDMI Cable:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00870ZHCQ?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
MicroUSB Power Supply:
http://www.amazon.com/NorthPada%C2%AE-Charger-Raspberry-Android-Samsung/dp/B00OY7HR1U/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458167495&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=micro+usb+2a
8GB SD Card:
http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Memory-SDSDUN-008G-G46-Newest-Version/dp/B00M55BS5O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458167735&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=8gb+sd
SDHC Card Reader:
http://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Information-Card-Reader-TS-RDF5K/dp/B009D79VH4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458167758&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sdhc+reader
All together that comes to $75 and will play games from the Atari, NES, SNES, Master System, Genesis, Gameboy etc. If you buy that SD card then I have an 8Gb image file already put together for it with over 4000 games that I could put up for you to download, you then just write it to the SD card, pop it in the Pi and plug it in, it will auto boot to a nice menu controlled by the control pad, select your game and play, then just press "Start + Select" to go back to the menu to select another game/system. It's very easy to use as all the hard work of aquiring the games and artwork has already been done.
You can get the more powerful Pi 2 or 3 and a bigger MicroSD to have more roms but that pushes the price up and will need more work to setup.
I have aspergers and my wife is type one so I understand some of the difficulties your son faces, I hope you can use this to help make him happy. My sister has an autistic son also and I put together one of these and he loves it, she got him to write a one sentence review and score out of 10 for each game. It became something they could do together and talk about, and also helped to convince him to do things liek help with cleaning his room etc so that he could do "one more review before bed" as she thinks it important to always push him that little bit to give him the best chances later on in life.
Anyway, here is a video showing the system in use so you can see what you think:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDWebx6D2Zc
Also with the addition of another SD card, usb keyboard and mouse and it also works as a computer with web browsing and programming tools for kids (Scratch).
Hope this helps, let us know if you want the 8Gb SD card image uploaded for you to download (not to be re-distributed though)
Regards
DJH
It depends what you need. I initially thought 32 GBs on my Nexus 5 wouldn't be enough, but once I chose to download my ~1000 or more songs on Spotify in normal quality instead of 320kbps, I now have tons of free space. Your usage may be different, but depending on what you use it for, a Nexus 5 may be the better option...and if it is, you should get it instead.
MicroSD card holder.
Get an OTG cable and a good SD/MicroSD reader, and you're golden.
OTG is awkward? Yes. Can you have more data, images, and movies than any other phone user in the world? Yes.
Taken from the linked comments:
> Another fantastic deal is the 200GB for $34.99. It's a good day to grab either.
> And FYI, as soon as you get any microsd card, run it through h2testw to see if it's legit (if it's sold and shipped by amazon it most likely is the real deal), and then crystaldiskmark to test the speed. Make sure to use a usb 3.0 port and card reader.
In that case, probably as /u/kwong83 suggested, the lock sensor on your laptop's reader (is this an internal one, or an external USB reader?) is damaged. Fixing that depends massively on what model you have, and it may just be easier/cheaper to purchase a USB SD/MicroSD reader. I mean, there's stuff like https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-microSDHC-Reader-TS-RDF5K-Black/dp/B009D79VH4/ which are about $10.
Disclaimer - I don't own that reader. I've been looking at getting one similar though, it came up quickly in a search for examples, and I've used Transcend memory cards without any trouble. YMMV, though.
Just a note, that is very expensive. Idk about integrated solutions like the one mentioned above, and whether it's competitively priced, but you could put together a CD player, USB hub, and SD reader for much less money. And if you stacked them together, maybe taped them together or put them in a 3D printed enclosure, it wouldn't look much worse.
CD player: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1N83ZR7447
USB hub: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GGYU8TC/ref=twister_B00FB50S0Q?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
SD reader: https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-microSDHC-Reader-TS-RDF5K-Black/dp/B009D79VH4/ref=pd_lpo_147_lp_tr_t_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=WQ6PSHXB1G9XD2P2KW7G
The above costs under $100 (around 1/3 cheaper), plus the individual components have good reviews, and the USB hub is much higher quality.
Sorry, can't seem to find more info on their card readers.
But did see some other people having the same problems solved with USB card readers.
You can try to borrow one from someone or buy one to test the card and make sure that it isn't the limiting factor.
This one from Transcend (for just SD and MicroSD) works like a charm for me also:
http://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Information-Card-Reader-TS-RDF5K/dp/B009D79VH4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1380676415&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=transcend+usb+reader
Very small and reasonably fast
Mac user here, I am going to be ordering a GoPro Hero 4 Silver in a couple weeks. While I am unsure of your Mac specs, I do know that my Macbook Air (2014) has a dedicated SD Card slot. I would recommend taking your SD card out of your GoPro and try to upload the photos/video directly from the SD card.
If your Mac does not have a dedicated SD Card reader, Amazon has the USB SD card readers pretty cheap.
Hope this helps.
EDIT: If you don't mind letting me know if this works since the only computer I have at the moment is a Macbook.
I bought this about a year or two back (thanks amazon for letting me see that far back). It's simple and its 5 bucks. Just buy a few of them?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009D79VH4/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Great post OP, thank you very much. I started progress on my magic mirror following these instructions and wanted to post my experience so far.
Already had:
Things I needed to purchase:
Issues Encountered:
$url = 'YOUR_URL'
I will probably be removing the news and compliments because I am using a smaller screen and want to leave more open space.
I also am looking for a solution to showing events from multiple calendars. I keep my google calendars separated by type, like bills, appointments, etc. These are kept on separate calendars so I can filter which is viewed. But I'd like to consolidate this data on the mirror, or rotate between calendars. May modify the source myself if nothing already exists.
But to get everything running on the pi took about 2hrs including resolving my issues. Building the frame will probably take longer as my wood working skills are pretty sub par.
Hi guys, I would like to get into digital art (I am alright but haven't done as much as I'd like in the last few years). Is this a good place to start?
I just bought [Intuos Draw] (https://www.amazon.com/Wacom-CTL490DW-Digital-Drawing-Graphics/dp/B010LHRFM2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473091195&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=intuos+draw) for taking notes (in OneNote) and moderate drawing (I'm a beginner, as you can see).
But since you have Mac, you might want to get pen AND TOUCH.
And yes, the tablet does work in OneNote. I am actually using the tablet in OneNote a lot for calculus homework (lots of mistakes, so good way to save paper :p).
If you have any more questions, I can try to answer. :)
Just found one on sale for $70.
If you truly aspired to make art a hobby or something along those lines, just keep practicing (oh, and stay away from microsoft paint)! You can practice in traditional media with a sketchbook + pencils/pens, or look into practicing with other traditional media like coal (coal is very inexpensive, and the larger nature of coal works make it easier to edit). If youre looking to go into the digital art side of things, id suggest investing in a nice tablet. Wacom sells tablets that i can vouch for. Ive had my tablet that i bought at a best buy for 40$ since 6 years ago and it's still going strong :)
All in all, just keep at it. If making that piece made you happy and u wanna pursue art, i can guarantee that you'll improve as long as u just practice :)
You know what, that's actually a good map! It's pretty clear and represents a good start.
/r/mapmaking is a good place to look around, and there's even helpful threads popping up all the time. If you decide to get more serious about making maps, I'd recommend a Wacom tablet for drawing on a computer. You can use free tools like GIMP or Krita. Of course you can use a mouse with these, but pen & tablet is easier.
If sticking to regular paper, get something like these. Good pens of different thicknesses. If you can express terrain using only "textures" in black & white (here is an example I found on /r/mapmaking), you can really make it pop once you start adding color!
Biggest tip is to just keep at it. And don't be afraid to re-do things over and over to try out different styles.
As others have mentioned GIMP is a great program, very much like photoshop and an excellent place to learn prior to shelling out for PS. You should use a tablet for sure,
wacom makes excellent tablets and you can find them for relatively cheap. This one is rather small but you could get a refurbished intuos pro for not much more. Good luck in your journey!
Would this one be similar to the one you posted? I went ahead and checked and as a Canadian, this is what I got. I don't want to throw out $216 lol.
I heard that if you get a small tablet but have a large monitor, it's going to be difficult to draw. How true is that? My monitor is only 23".
I have an older version of this one, and it's worked fine for me. I may eventually have the money to buy the one they talk about (one of the Pro line, forget exactly which one), but I don't have a pressing need to replace this one anytime soon, and I've been using it for a few years.
While it is an unfortunate situation, there is no excuse for him to cheat if, as yourself said, he does not care about getting better. If it is a solution you want, playing on a trackpad or using a stylus should help out.
Tablet peripherals are commonly used for osu! because it allows for natural movement of your cursor, and many beatmaps have patterns that are more difficult to perform with a mouse when compared to a tablet (e.g. shapes like squares or stars, some dubstep patterns, anything by Hollow Wings). It's not to say these things are impossible to perform on a mouse--they're absolutely possible, but the learning curve for using a tablet is significantly lower because of the natural cursor movement that comes with it.
There are guides for tablet purchasing on the osu!wiki and even here on /r/osugame, but these are somewhat out of date. Popular tablets include the Huion H420 and the Wacon CTL-480, though the latter is discontinued. Newer tablets that have come to attention include the Wacom Intuos Draw (or CTL-490) and the XP-Pen G430.
Monoprice tablets can be pretty good and well reviewed.
There seem to be some well reviewed hurion tablets on amazon that seem similar to the monoprice ones and are around your price range.
Cheapest wacom seems to be this model, at $72 USD.
I've personally been eyeballing the small sized Intuos Pro for awhile, but the sub $100 Wacom Intuos Draw is Amazon's highest rated of the cheaper tablets.
Is it like this one? https://www.amazon.com/Wacom-CTL490DW-Digital-Drawing-Graphics/dp/B010LHRFM2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482941102&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wacom+tablet
Nominating /u/Shercock_Holmes for this awesome drawing tablet because I used to have one like this and I REALLY loved it, beyond drawing as well! It was really useful for doing math problems and taking notes too (:
ALSO gimme some tech Daddi! Can I just say your name gives me life lmao. Both Shercock and DaddiYanqui make me so happy for no reason lmao I love it.
Thank you! That was my fear. I was thinking RAM would be my best chance because he's mentioned it, in which case I'd just find a general price and be like now choose the right one and make a silly fake giftcard to downloadmoreram.com, which isn't real of course!
So he has 2 monitors already. He isn't pro at blender atm but follows tutorials to learn. Are books on blender irrelevant/outdated vs YouTube generally? He's working on textures and faces now I think.
Forgive my ignorance on tablets- as a writer and researcher, I stick to laptops for notetaking because that's just how I work. How is a tablet powerful enough for modeling if so much goes into blender to begin with? Is it difficult to work with? He has a laptop but I've never seen him use it for blender. It's on Linux though, if that matters. (Edit: like this?)
Thank you again!
What is your budget? I recently purchased a wacom intuos draw, which is a new series of relatively affordable ($69 USD) tablets of good quality. Definitely recommended for beginners, and I'm absolutely in love with it :)
This is great. Hands are such a pain to draw well and you've done a great job. The story is relatable to anyone who's been high and experienced how weird your body is if you really think about it. 10/10, would read again.
If you're serious about moving from single illustrations to sequential art there are a lot of books and sites out there to help.
Fundamentals
Scott McCloud
Will Eisner
Writing
Jim Zub
Coloring
K Michael Russell
These are just a few. This may not be a popular opinion here but bittorent is your friend. Use it to torrent Photoshop, Manga Studio, and any drawing books you're interested in. Then you need to ask yourself what your end goal is. Printed comics? Web comics?
I've changed my workflow from originally doing everything with paper and pens to involving more digital elements during the process. It's made working quicker and most people want to consume comics on their laptop or tablet which means you'll end up converting to digital at some point in the future anyway.
Here's some examples of my stuff. I'm still learning so there's a lot here I'm embarrassed to show but it might be helpful context.
Web comic done with pencils and inks on paper then scanned. I did this for a year and you can see how much better my art gets towards the end from practicing every day. I wish I would have kept it up.
First try coloring something digitally.
Here's the second try doing a longer format comic. K Michael Russell's videos are awesome for learning the basics of coloring. Here's what the layers look like broken apart.
You can get a scanner relatively cheap, here's the one I use. The downside of a small scanner means you need to draw on paper smaller than 11x17 or draw on large paper and scan it in piece by piece.
I also moved to a Wacom tablet for inking/coloring. My next comic will be posted soon and was done 100% digital. I'm not in love with how it turned out but it helped me learn what you and can and can't do on a drawing tablet.
Hopefully some of this is helpful.
It's extremely easy to pull a hard drive out of most laptops. You can buy SATA to USB cables on amazon for under $10. You can easily with a screw driver remove the HDD and get all your files back with the SATA to USB cable.
This is the one I just recently bought for myself, works great!
http://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
I bought a 500GB Samsung Evo SSD card the other day along with a new GPU. The new GPU I have installed and updated and working awesomely however I have a few problems with the SSD.
I have the Samsung CD which comes with the Data Migration software however I don't have the leads to connect it - will this or this work? But would that mean the SSD will be external to me case? In which case would it benefit me to just get this?
If I get the latter will that enable me to transfer data from my current HDD (which is staying inside my PC)? Or will I have to get one of the first SATA cables, transfer data and then install it internally?
Thanks for your help!
No, it's firmware for overburning DVDs to utilize more than the capacity listed.
I used this cable, and made it so I can easily unplug it if I want to connect a hard drive temporary. I thought about fixing the cable in place with the design but I thought removable was better.
Sabrent USB 3.0 to SSD / 2.5-Inch SATA I/II/IIIHard Drive Adapter (EC-SSHD) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k6roDbM2GSSWZ
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM
All you need is one of these and then plug the thing in your Xbox like a usb stick
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523884458&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=sata+to+usb
I use that for reading hard drives. Suggested in another comment as well.
If you clone it, you can use dd on a Linux live USB. You either need an external drive with at least 128GB of free space, or a SATA to USB adaptor to plug the new drive into. (such as this: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM) Once you've cloned it, you have to expand the partition to make use of the extra space. This can be done with GParted, also on a Linux live USB.
My only failure was a Sandisk. I have Samsung Evos in all mine now.
Samsung 64GB 100MB/s (U3) MicroSDXC EVO Select Memory Card with Adapter (MB-ME64GA/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XX29S9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TSR6AbQJV7VHC
This will work with the switch right?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XX29S9Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
AmFilm and this SD card. I got the 64, the 128 is $12 more.
Yep, and grab some cheap memory
&#x200B;
Sony Memory Card Shell
64 Gb Micro SD
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That said, you can find all sorts of teardown guides
You can also buy the UMD drives for pretty cheap
I have no experience with replacing the UMD drives however and don't know if there could be compatibility issues.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XX29S9Q/
This one might be a better option at $11.99. Also has 15% back for Prime cards. I just bought one last week for a Wyze cam.
The 128GB of the Samsung one is $19.49
This is your best option...
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSDXC-Adapter-MB-ME256GA-AM/dp/B072HRDM55/
Transfer it all there, anything you need frequently that requires faster access you can migrate to the SSD. Compress the lesser used/infrequently used data.
> unless you're that guy who shoots regular JPG but never unloads anything off his phone, in which case you'll end up almost full with a high capacity card in your phone, which is as hilarious as it is ironic.
>
>
that is me.
>If you have to choose between an average speed 512 gb card, and a high speed 256 gb one, pick the 256 gb one, and you will be happy 9 out of 10 times.
Should I get the Sandisk Ultra 400GB for $97
https://www.amazon.com.au/SanDisk-256GB-microSDXCTM-microSDHCTM-Adapter/dp/B074RNRM2B
or the Samsung Evo Select 256GB for $73
https://www.amazon.com.au/Samsung-MicroSDXC-Adapter-MB-ME256GA-AM/dp/B072HRDM55/
Only difference I think is UHS Speed Class U3 vs UHS Speed Class U1.
I really like the Samsung cards. Get the ones that have U3 on them as the write speeds are faster than the U1s. Amazon has the evo select cards on sale for the best price that I've seen (I just ordered this card myself). See link below:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072HRDM55/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_j.D8BbVE8D0AR
I think the Samsung's are more durable and I've never had one stop working on me (unlike the sandisk cards that seem to go bad more often).
The questions are more appropriate for the daily question thread, which is stickied daily to the front page of the subreddit.
Switch SD Card Specs
Most people buy one of two versions which operate at the highest end of the switch specs without breaking the bank. Buy the largest size that you can afford. The Samsung tops out at 256gb while the Sandisk goes up to 400gb.
Samsung 100mb/s
Sandisk 100mb/s
Opaaa, SDCard 256GB de US$85 (estava US$56) por US$45:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072HRDM55
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072HRDM55/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Uks8BbX2TQFV9
256 GB right now on amazon for $45
Lighting does affect frame rate.
No, definitely not that brand. Either Samsung EVO Select or Sandisk Ultra A1 would be the cheapest to use and that are known to work. Also it's critical to purchase from a reputable vendor to know the card is authentic! If purchased on Amazon make sure it's shipped and sold by Amazon. There are a ton a fake cards out there and many 3rd party vendors are selling them.
In the meantime, you can store BCH on this guy for ~$50 ;)
For me It was listed for $63 and the Samsung U3 of the same size for 73$ . I would say the extra 10 bucks are a good option considering the tests of Skullator
The cheaper cards just have slower read and write speeds. They transfer data slower.
You just have to read the descriptions and decide what you need.
I don't know a lot.
I just knew I wanted a card for my switch that wouldn't be slow or die.
Samsung 256GB 100MB/s (U3) MicroSDXC EVO Select Memory Card with Adapter (MB-ME256GA/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072HRDM55/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sBuNDbPYCZ07J
I picked this because the speeds were good and it's a known company.
If you go read the bad reviews you will get some more info on The speeds.
I always read the lowest reviews on things and if the complaints are stupid (which I find a lot) I read the good ones and then decide on the purchase.
Like cell phone cases, people give one star review because the case is hard to take off or put on.
Or slow shipping. My switch case I ordered had bad reviews because they said the case smells weird. But I got mine and it just smelled like a new product.
I wish I knew more.
It's just about the speeds and price.
Finding a happy medium is what you have to decide on unless money isn't a big deal.
I did more research and put in an order for a VIOFO A129 Duo dash cam and I also bought a Samsung EVO Select 256 GB micro sd card. Thank you so much to everyone who helped me to figure this out. Much love and appreciation <3
Amazon has SD cards for $28 & free shipping if anyone needs the deal, but doesn't want to risk life and limb to get it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072HRDM55
I’m stressing now because I just got a Samsung
Samsung 256GB 100MB/s (U3)... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072HRDM55?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I haven’t put it in yet now I’m just worried it’s a fake.
It's a GoPro Black 7.
Cost Breakdown:
GoPro Black 7: $349
256 GB SD Card: $45
Mount Kit off Amazon: $22
This one is reliable, fast, and well priced. I use it now:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSDXC-Adapter-MB-ME256GA-AM/dp/B072HRDM55
Well, I just timed it prior to updating, and it took ~25 seconds. I hit a button to interrupt the intro and was at the "press any button" screen in under 29 seconds. I just let it download some updates and tried again...roughly the same time (maybe even a bit faster; maybe cached?)
I have this SD card: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072HRDM55/
While I wouldn't necessarily rule out a slowdown on your U1 card (though I agree the degree of difference doesn't seem reasonable), I would't expect your U3 cards to have such a big gulf. How did you format and load data onto the card? I wonder if that might be an issue? e.g. did you use a computer? or the Switch itself?
I don’t understand the consumer loyalty to want to buy one of these. Someone said this card is cheaper than the comparable card by Sandisk, which maybe is true right this instant but why would sandisk as a company make a cheap/good product and slap it with a Nintendo sticker rather than generic so it appeals to the whole consumer market?
Here’s a same size U3 card for $40, so the Nintendo MicroSD isn’t cheaper anyway...
Samsung 256GB 100MB/s (U3) MicroSDXC EVO Select Memory Card with Adapter (MB-ME256GA/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072HRDM55/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MsGRCbT31DBEZ
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072HRDM55/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1 this one here
Anker 2-in-1 MicroSD Card Reader
Samsung 256GB MicroSD Card
This one is on sale, mine will arrive Friday
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072HRDM55/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
legit got a 256gb on amazon last year for around $37 for my switch, been working great still tons of room left.
Been running rocket league and a few other indies on it for those long plane rides.
Looks like they are on sale again if you want to go the amazon route.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072HRDM55/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Wow, I just looked up that Xbox branded SSD. It's a really bad deal; I feel like Seagate is counting on console players not realizing how much SSD prices have dropped over the last few months.
Almost $100 for 500 GB is nuts.
For comparison, I paid $80 for a 1 TB Crucial MX500, which probably one of the top one or two non-Samsung SATA SSDs
I'd suggest OP look for SATA SSD deals on /r/BuildaPCSales then buy a SATA to USB adapter for less than $10 on Amazon.
Example of what I'm talking about. Plug one end into the SSD and one end into your Xbox.
If you have an old SSD and a console that has USB 3.0, you can pick up one of these and just plug the bare drive in. Works great on my X.
Sabrent USB 3.0 to SSD / 2.5-Inch SATA I/II/IIIHard Drive Adapter (EC-SSHD) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011M8YACM/
I agree if the budget allows that, but this has a USB adapter because RPi lack SATA. SATA->USB adapter cable isn't that expensive although slightly more bulky than WD's solution.
You'll want something like this:
or
And you'll need cloning software. Crucial and Samsung have cloning software that you can use for free when cloning to their drives:
If you haven't yet purchased an SSD I'd recommend the Samsung 850 Evo.
------------
You'll also want to checkout a site like ifixit.com or simply lookup youtube videos on how to go about opening up your laptop.
No worries.
If you just want to do a full reinstall of windows you take out the HDD, put in the SSD, and install windows from scratch.
If you want to clone from the HDD to the SDD you need software and either a USB to SATA cable or a drive enclosure.
If you go with a M.2 you will insert it and use the cloning software to clone your HDD to the M.2 drive.
Something else to look into, if you have a smaller SSD and larger secondary drive, is to move the search index, Windows temp files, and such onto the larger, slower drive. Doing this frees up the precious space on the M.2 drive while reducing the overall read/writes.
Personally I would save up for the M.2 drive, make that primary, and keep the HDD as a secondary.
Samsung Data Migration software is free with a Samsung drive so you just need a dock. Its also fast and easy.
Samsung download page
EDIT: Also this USB to SATA is EXCELLENT for SSD transfers:
Sabrent USB 3.0 to SSD / 2.5-Inch SATA Hard Drive Adapter
Second edit: You said you have a dock lol use that with the Samsung software and you are solid.
I have 5 of these:
https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Tool-Free-External-Lay-Flat-Enclosure/dp/B00A5323NO
They'll accept both 3.5 and 2.5 drives.
I have one of these and it works well:
Sabrent USB 3.0 to SSD / 2.5-Inch SATA Hard Drive Adapter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011M8YACM
Having stuff like this makes cloning drives easy, I use Paragon hard disk manager suite 14 but I'd imagine that Macrium Reflect or Clonezilla would work just as well.
I may have to invest in one of these to have all my bases covered!
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-2-5in-Adapter-Converter-SAT32M225/dp/B00ITJ7U20
> Is the SSD with my OS toast?
Maybe, maybe not. Assuming you can't just plug into a SATA port in another PC: do you have, or at least have access to, another computer, running Windows, that you can use, with USB 3.0 ports? If so, try this guy in one, with the SSD:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM/
Also, how does it bootloop? If it gets to the Windows starting animations, or Windows 7 bottom loading bar, then the SSD is likely fine.
As old as the system is, my bet is on age-related RAM, PSU, or mobo failure.
I would create a clone of that disk immediately, using clonezilla, if possible. Also is the drive showing up in disk management. Also use this teardown guide to make sure the hdd isnt loose. Also use a external sata adapter https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500618312&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+to+sata, to make sure its not the sata port on the motherboard that is failing. If it still doesnt work the sata connector on drive is likely failing which means you need a new drive.
If you have a desktop PC that you know has an available SATA data port and power connector, you could temporarily install the drive to get the data off of it. You might have to manually set the boot order in the BIOS so that your computer boots from its hard drive and not the laptop drive.
Alternatively, you could get a SATA to USB adapter, regardless of what computer you have. I have this $10 Sabrent one, although there are much cheaper ones available like the one /u/jamvanderloeff linked.
Do you have a 5.25" disc drive laying around? If so, I use
one of these.Just buy an adapter from Sata to USB, and it will work like a charm.
https://www.amazon.fr/Sabrent-Adaptateur-Optimisé-support-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_fr_FR=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&crid=2IJCI7Y0UJWBU&keywords=sata+to+usb&qid=1570130783&sprefix=sata+to+%2Caps%2C205&sr=8-3
> as easy as popping a few screws loose and everything is right there
It's ridiculously easy. Usually 3 to 5 screws to remove a plastic cover and another 2 screws holding the drive in place.
Buying a Samsung SSD makes it even easier because they have a program called Samsung Data Migration. You just need to either order one of the SSDs that comes with a USB-SATA interface, or buy a cheap one.
Done. That's all there is to it. If you want to get fancy, or honestly just be smarter about it, get this instead of the adapter cable. When you're all done, you can reformat the HDD that came with the computer and use it as an external drive.
Get this!
you don't necessarily need to use the software that came with your SSD, but I guess it wouldn't hurt. I see that your laptop has USB 3.0 ports which means the transfer process shouldn't take more than 20 minutes. Just follow the instructions and it should be painless. I use Macrium Reflect, but use whatever program you feel most comfortable with.
Sometimes people report that their computer isn't recognizing the SSD connected to the USB port. That is usually fixed by running disk manager and the computer will now discover the SSD connected via USB. (press the windows key + R, then type in diskmgmt.msc)
Once your finished cloning your HDD to SSD, remove the HDD, pop in the SSD and you should be good to go. In some cases you may have to manually set the new drive as the boot drive in your BIOS, but that laptop is fairly new so I doubt you would have to do so.
Why not just pull the HDD/SSD out and connect it to another computer?
Go to resnet, ask nicely, and they will probably do it for you if you bring them an external hdd or big enough flash drive.
$9.99 Sabrent USB 3.0 to SSD / 2.5-Inch SATA Hard Drive Adapter [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] (EC-SSHD) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5u5jybMFGDXEM
Yea you can get a wire like this.
Sabrent USB 3.0 to SSD / 2.5-Inch SATA Hard Drive Adapter [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] (EC-SSHD) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vSJmybWWV43KP
Or an external enclosure like this
AUKEY 2.5" Hard Drive Enclosure, USB 3.0 External Disk Case for SATA HDD and SSD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J3NM642/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eUJmybVD73H0B
I'd get a USB HDD adapter and transfer the files over to another PC that way, then put the HDD back into the laptop and do a clean windows install.
Of course!! Ahh yes, I forgot the most important part, haha. Sorry :) Get the below cable as well and once you have all your parts, download the free trial of Carbon Copy Cloner to the current HDD (link below - no payment/credit card needed and you get full application access during the 30 days i.e. no features are disabled). You'll use the cable to attach the SSD via USB and then open CCC and clone the current drive (instructions below). It can take a bit since the HDD is so slow so just let it run. Once it's done then you can start the steps from the IFIXIT articles. You can keep the current HDD as a backup if you'd like.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
Cable - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011M8YACM/
CCC - https://bombich.com/
CCC Instructions - https://bombich.com/kb/ccc5/i-want-clone-my-entire-hard-drive-new-hard-drive-or-new-machine
It'll work fine. Just need an adapter/housing for SATA to USB. Like this.
Crucial SSD 500 Gb: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0786QNS9B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
USB to SSD SATA adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011M8YACM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And the YouTube video: https://youtu.be/-LB9TqfQrsA
Edit: Forgot to mention the software I used: https://www.disk-partition.com/free-partition-manager.html
Edit: Some SSDs will only work in PCs, but if you stick to getting what's called a SATA type SSD you will be fine :)
I was having issues with multiple microSD cards unmounting themselves. Annoying. I went with Samsung 250GB SSD and this $10 adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011M8YACM/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It's more storage than I need but oh well but it just works.
I put a $70 antenna:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CXQO00K/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
in my attic and bought an HDHomerun Connect. I get free OTA HD with DVR. I just used an old 1.5TB USB2.0 drive for the recordings. So far so good!
It's this one I got from Amazon - Sabrent USB to SSD; it's only a USB 3.0 though; idk if that will affect the speed greatly or not.
Ssd's (then nvme) have made raid-for-speed completely obsolete. Raid 5 is complicated/pricey to restore from, so there's little reason to use anything other than raid 1 (I think you can do it in software with windows now). But even then...the only use for that is really high availability online servers. At home you'd be better off running a backup program to an internet service or at least an external drive.
If you just want to store stuff on the drives, you can buy a cable or dock on amazon for little money that lets you connect the drives via usb.
This is what I used to transfer data off my old laptop drive:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011M8YACM/
But you might need something that also provides external power if you have a desktop drive you're trying to hook up.
Hyperx Cloud core is exactly $70. It has better sound quality than most gaming headsets, and isn't much of a ripoff. It is a 3.5mm, so you will need an adapter or USB hub.
https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset/dp/B0153XL4V2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467131151&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=cloud+core
If you're looking for good audio with an attached microphone, this is definitely the one to get. If you don't need all the frills of the Cloud, the Cloud Core is only $59 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.ca/Kingston-HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset/dp/B0153XL4V2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473300999&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hyperx+headset
Alternatively, Cloud II has USB adapter for 7.1 audio and a better headband, definitely worth the price.
https://www.amazon.ca/HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset-PS4/dp/B00SAYCXWG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473300999&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=hyperx+headset
After going through almost half a dozen pairs of gaming headphones, I don't think I could go back after using the HyperX. It's comfortable, light, sounds amazing, and has a good microphone.
HyperX Cloud Core Gaming Headset for PC/PS4 (KHX-HSCC-BK) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0153XL4V2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_rX8DsM7a2pxmP
I purchased these and they work really well.
The HyperX Cloud Core is also on sale for $59.99+tax on Amazon as well. I just got myself a pair and they're pretty nice.
Need a new gaming headset, under $100.
Thinking of either the Kingston HyperX Cloud Core or the SteelSeries Arctis 3. Love the look of the Arctis but the Kingston is currently 26bucks cheaper.
Any thoughts on which I should pull the trigger on?
Just to note, the Cloud Alpha DOES NOT come with the USB dongle that the Cloud II does. But at this point after a bit more research, (i'm pretty sure...) the PS4 controller does indeed have a 4-pin 3.5mm so really anything should work.
> The DualShock 4 Wireless Controller features a built-in speaker and stereo headset jack, putting several new audio options in the player's hands
Between the two, it'll be a personal choice. The Cloud Alpha is the updated (and most people consider it superior too,) the Cloud II/Cloud Core. Spend more money for the slightly/somewhat superior audio of the Alpha, or spend less money for what is still one of the best headsets out there in the Cloud Core (which is what I assume is the PS4 approved Cloud product. https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Core-Gaming-Headset/dp/B0153XL4V2 )
the best decision i made was in getting the Hyper X Cloud Core headset. It is identical in every way to the Hyper X Cloud 2, same sound drivers, same everything EXCEPT it doesn't come with virtual surround (which is trash) or the control box which isn't needed and trust me it would get annoying.
but anyways I come thru clearly to my friends, it sounds awesome, detachable mic if you want to use it to listen to music on your phone, super durable feeling cord and super comfortable (I have a huge head.) And my favorite little bonus is that it came with an extra cord that makes using it as a computer headset seamless. It's awesome.
i'd look for it on sale, i got it for much cheaper at Gamestop...ur basically getting the quality of a Cloud II at a much cheaper price.
HyperX Cloud Core Gaming Headset - Durable Aluminum Frame - 53MM Drivers - Detachable Microphone - Works with PC/PS4 & Xbox One, Nintendo Switch (KHX-HSCC-BK) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0153XL4V2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1h3XBbN15AMFD I know this is $100 but my mom was able to buy it from Walmart, I think, for around $20 and it’s really good but I don’t know if you’ll be able to find it for that much anymore.
my choice
here
If you're expecting good audio out of a ThinkPad, I've got bad news for you.
Get a headset. I personally recommend the HyperX Cloud series. The Cloud Core is on sale for $50 right now.
The Cloud II Core is one I consistently came across when searching for a new headset. According to /r/headphones, it’s the exception to the “gaming headsets suck” rule.
Looks like the price difference is quite a bit higher in the US than it is in Germany but I'd go with the Hyper X cloud "Core" or "Pro" or "Pro Silver", depending on what kind of features you want/need and if you're willing to spend another 10$.
HyperX Cloud Core: 70$
HyperX Cloud Pro: 80$, Velour Cushions, Y cable and an audio control box
HyperX Cloud Pro Silver: 80$, Headband foam and inline audio control
I have the HyperX Core - best headset I've owned.
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset-KHX-HSCC-BK/dp/B0153XL4V2
Everyone here will tell you the same: "Headsets are grabage. If you don't need microphone, get a good headphone, and if you need micro, get a good headphone with mod micro"
I tell you the same
BUT
If you really want a headset and can afford it, the HyperX cloud is a neat one (around 60$). Audio quality is far better than any other gaming crap headset. You can connect it to PS4 though the TRRS 3.5 jack in the ps4 controller.
Hope I helped you.
Amazon Link
I have a feeling you might not have access to amazon so try searching HyperX Cloud Core or HyperX Cloud II. Maybe even HyperX Cloud Stinger
Looks alright. I wouldn't reccomend Ryzen chips. I would probably get something more like an i7 6700k or the 6700 (which is around $20 cheaper if you can't justify the price) for gaming. If you end up choosing an Intel CPU you'll have to choose a different Mobo as well but there are lots of good ones.
I'd reccomend getting an entry level 144Hz Screen. If you can stretch to something like this I would seriously reccomend it, though it's not going to hurt you if you don't. I think it was Jake from LG Evil that made T500 early in the game on a Mac Book running OW in wine.
I personally don't like any gaming Headsets other than the HyperX Clouds. There is a huge quality difference between them and any other "gaming" headsets I have used.
As far as mice and keyboards, I would probably just buy a nice cheap Keyboard to begin with because there are no benefits really to having a good keyboard if you're on a budget. A mouse is kinda personal, I use a Steel Series Rival 100 but am a palm style user and am completely arm aim. It's a good cheap mouse but you may want something else if your grip style is different. My brother plays claw and doesn't mind it though.
Parts and gear you should prioritise for Overwatch are: Good GPU. 6GB 1060s are plenty for overwatch unless you want to be running the game at consistently over 240FPS (here's Taimou's settings btw. These will help with you configuring your settings for Overwatch). A fast CPU (Overwatch can be very CPU dependant). SSDs are kinda nice and fairly cheap. If you have a SSD btw you're at a direct benefit to most other players because you load in matches faster and can therefore instalock first, if that's your thing. :P Monitors are the most important peripheral by far in my opinion, followed closely by mice. If you're not getting a 144Hz screen now, you'll want one eventually (you won't need one but you'll want one). The only other peripheral that is important for Overwatch specifically is a mouse. This is one of those what suits your style things and there's no real correct answer but for First Person Shooters you usually want a nice light fast mouse. Ideally with 2 buttons on the side of the mouse for binding melee and voice. Just don't get a Razer and you'll be fine.
I'd probably ask on /r/buildapc as well because they'll probably give you better advice than this sub will. Best of luck dude with your transition to PC. Hope this helps.
Edit: oh and Mousepad! In the beginning I'd reccomend a nice control style mouse pad for getting used to using a mouse for aiming. I can't reccomend you any though because I have always used the mats that come in WoW TCG boxes since a family member has heaps of them and I've never used any other control style mats. The bigger the better.
There's always a debate for "proper" headset and a separate mic. What it comes to gaming headsets I don't know much about void or stinger, but at about the same price point lies HyperX Cloud Cores. For my money the most comfortable ones and the sound is pretty good though it may lack a bit of bass.
Seems they're on sale on Amazon.
I have these...very comfortable for me. The mic can be detached too, in case you just want sound.
https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset-KHX-HSCC-BK/dp/B0153XL4V2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526176428&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=hyperx+headset
I use hyperx cloud cores and they work fine for me. Here is a link Hyperx
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0153XL4V2/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1457256602&amp;sr=8-7&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=hyperx+cloud&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31QKMfz4iFL&amp;ref=plSrch
Damn! I just bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0153XL4V2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
for same price. The ones I got are new, but it's a headset and that's pretty much it. I'm wondering if used ones that are better are worth it...
I got this combo for my fiance. This setup destroys anything at the price range.
Cheap and within your price range, excellent positional audio (surround sound), and super clear drivers. Can't go wrong.
Otherwise if you want something more traditional then the Hyper X Clouds sound better than most super gamery $150-200 headphones.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ABUJ2KM/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&amp;pd_rd_i=B01ABUJ2KM&amp;pd_rd_wg=FZ9na&amp;pd_rd_r=92W9815PKED04SPZCZP1&amp;pd_rd_w=EXaHu
This one uses Outemu Blues, which are equivalent to Cherry MX Blues, but their technically a "rip off". Some people actually prefer them, because I'm pretty sure there a little smoother and have more of a bump.
https://www.amazon.com/Qisan-Keyboard-Mechanical-Backlight-keyboard/dp/B01AXN24AC/ref=pd_sbs_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B01AXN24AC&amp;pd_rd_r=92W9815PKED04SPZCZP1&amp;pd_rd_w=1Bpbx&amp;pd_rd_wg=FZ9na&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=92W9815PKED04SPZCZP1
This one has genuine Cherry MX Blues, but its more expensive.
(Unintentional notes) The white could actually complement your setup, and the %65-%75 could allow for more stuff on the desk.
I bet with a mechanical keyboard you could easily make it into /r/battlestations
https://www.amazon.com/Qisan-Keyboard-Mechanical-68-Keys-Magicforce/dp/B01ABUJ2KM/ref=pd_sim_147_4?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41JrKWyK32L&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=031DXBBP9WPVN7E07ZFA
Also comes in gold.
Blue switch... sorta
Apparently they have this one with 'blue' switches, which is just a proprietary switch, so not a mxblue really.
Just a cheap one I got off Amazon after my good ol Corsair one died :)) Qisan MagicForce https://www.amazon.co.uk/Qisan-Mechanical-Keyboard-Keyboard-White-Magicforce/dp/B01ABUJ2KM
Magicforce 68
Here’s a link to amazon as well
You have a 108 full set of keyboards for any us ansi layout keyboard with Mx cherry or clone switches. As you have the full set, you can think of any 100%, tenkeyless, or smaller keyboards which is good. Probably a whit qisan magicforce smart 68 with blue switches would fit for the look and feeling
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ABUJ2KM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-C6EDbMBN4DFR
Cooler Master Quickfire has cherry blues is TKL and is dead on your price range.
Alternatively
Magicforce? for $60 you get Kalih Blues. You can also get it with Cherry Greens if you want to get original cherry switches but these are a fair bit heavier then blues/cost an extra $20. If you are truly budget conscious and need to really save then I guess you can get one with Outemu Blues for $40. - Note these are 60% with arrow clusters.
read the wiki's
post questions on the sticky
watch YT review vids
and if you really want a really introductory gaming keyboard try a cherry mx red or equivalent. Here are some I googled for you:
https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-Mechanical-Keyboard-K83-RED/dp/B01BMJ0Y4O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1538453552&sr=8-4&keywords=cherry+mx+red
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01ABUJ2KM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1538453485&sr=8-5&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+magicforce
have fun.
considered one of the best budget boards on the market.
Maybe you should just get this as your starter board?
I think a lot of people start with that. I know I did...and now I am too deep in the rabbit hole.
Welcome to the community, btw!
It seems to be a knock-off board, so wouldn't have much traction. Based on pricing, I'd assume its really low quality and probably not worth your money.
What you could get is a magicforce 68 which is a budget board recognized by the community for being a great bang for your buck.
You won't find many keyboards that size with RGB so cheap that aren't gonna either feel horrible or break pretty soon, so do consider putting some more money aside and getting something a little nicer. Corsair make some great budget mechanical keyboards that look pretty similar to this board, at about £70-80.
Just took a peek on Amazon and that honestly looks like a really good deal if what you're looking for is a fullsize. It's god Outemu Blue switches which a lot of people consider the best kind of cherry blue clone. A word of warning, if you want a quiet keyboard this is not it. It will be very loud.
One more thing, full size keyboards (i.e. those with an arrow cluster and a numpad) are pretty much the worst form factor for gaming. I'd personally suggest you go for something like this Tomoko board (it's branded as Pictek but it's actually Tomoko) or this Magicforce 68 which is a smaller form factor but is probably the best bang-for-your-buck board on the market.
Well, if you want to get started learning to build your own kit the hard way, that would be one option. However, it'll probably be cheaper, in the long run, to just buy a cheap "real" keyboard to replace the Razer. I had one of those boards, and threw it out when several of the keys went bad. Why replace them when you know the rest are going to go bad eventually too? You can get a MagicForce in blues or browns for just $40. A friend bought one with blues, and I really like the Outemu switches.
I have these:
MechanicalEagle Z-77: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DBVH16U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Magicforce:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ABUJ2KM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Tomoko: (I got a cheaper one that was only 77 keys but its not one amazon anymore) https://www.amazon.com/TOMOKO-Mechanical-Keyboard-Resistant-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01IHVN4GA/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&amp;srs=14363847011&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493431372&amp;sr=1-1
Often recommend magicforce 68: https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01ABUJ2KM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491755084&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=magicforce+68+blue
Tkl layout https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Mechanical-Enthusiasts-Backlighting-Double-shot/dp/B01M301Q50/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491755150&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Plugable+tkl
Best $40 board is the Magicforce 68
Comes with clicky loud satisfying switches.
I know this isn't RGB, but it's great, I use it, just wanted to point it out.
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01ABUJ2KM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504557252&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=magicforce+68
The Magicforce 68 with Outemu Blue switches is a great choice for only $40
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01ABUJ2KM
Amazon
Not sure where this belongs but I recently tried mechanical keyboard with this 40 dollar champ from amazon
It's fricking amazing.
You can get electric-powered air dusters. Long term they work out cheaper than canned air, don't contain bitterants and because they're electric, they're rechargeable.
I don't work for the companies selling these, but here is the US and UK links for amazon. (Other brands are available - my search was for electric compressed air)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/CompuCleaner-Xpert-Electric-Air-Duster/dp/B01G1Z0RF0/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483881551&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=electric+compressed+air
https://www.amazon.com/XPOWER-Airrow-Multi-Use-Electric-Computer/dp/B01BI4UQK0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483881570&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=electric+compressed+air
If you want to save some cash long term get yourself one of these. No more canned air and they always blow with good pressure. I wish I had gotten one of these years ago.
A magnetic screwdriver might be helpful. This kit comes with a anti-static wrist strap as well so you dont shock your computer parts. You also might need something to blow dust away to keep your computer clean, I prefer using an electric duster. But you can also get dust cans if you wish.
Also do you need WIFI? If you do here is a wifi card.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Wireless Network Adapter | Gigabyte - GC-WB867D-I PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $38.89 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $38.89
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-05 22:45 EST-0500 |
I would suggest something more along these lines.
https://www.amazon.com/XPOWER-2-Green-FBA-Multi-Use-Electric-Computer/dp/B01BI4UQK0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=power%2Bduster&amp;qid=1563782887&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
You could get something like this. Same price as several cans of compressed air and you could use it around the house for other things too. We have a larger one and it’s great for cleaning vents and filters and dusting things that are hard to wipe, getting into crevices and corners, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/XPOWER-Airrow-Multi-Use-Electric-Computer/dp/B01BI4UQK0/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Air+blower&amp;qid=1568272635&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/XPOWER-Airrow-Multi-Use-Electric-Computer/dp/B01BI4UQK0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495005597&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=electric+duster
no more buying canned dusters
I use one of these. Works really well. Loud but powerful.
I us this, https://www.amazon.com/XPOWER-Airrow-Multi-Use-Electric-Computer/dp/B01BI4UQK0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=pc+air+blower&qid=1556801185&s=gateway&sr=8-1 a much better alternative compressed air. Has several different attachements I use to clean my keyboard, controllers, and everything inside my PC
I bought one of these. For grease, I gently go over it with a purell wipe,then quickly dry with a microfiber cloth.
found [one] (https://smile.amazon.com/XPOWER-Airrow-Multi-Use-Electric-Computer/dp/B01BI4UQK0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500499799&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=datavac) for $50, not sure if it's good or not though
XPOWER A-2 Airrow Pro Multi-Use Electric Computer Duster Dryer Air Pump Blower - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BI4UQK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qGOOBb26PZHXM this is the duster I use.
Yes, air dust blower.
https://www.amazon.com/XPOWER-Airrow-Multi-Use-Electric-Computer/dp/B01BI4UQK0/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=pc+power+vac&qid=1571852990&sr=8-3
Not sure, why someone is downvoting.
>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BI4UQK0/
I have both in my toolkit. The blower has its uses, as does an actual compressor. However the blower has seen a lot more use lately.
On this note I recommend buying https://www.amazon.com/XPOWER-Airrow-Multi-Use-Electric-Computer/dp/B01BI4UQK0/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522079071&amp;sr=8-15&amp;keywords=canned+air
Long term will save you a lot of money.
I use this and love it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BI4UQK0/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484209875&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=computer+duster&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41oVo6kY56L&amp;ref=plSrch
Sorry for long link. When you consider the price of canned air, pretty soon this will save you money and it's more versatile for other uses.
This is what you want. Stop wasting money on those overpriced cans.
Mine is just a small electric air compressor. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BI4UQK0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 But that’s good to know.
I use this to clean my PC and it works wonders on cleaning that foam without any physical contact to it
Yea i got this guy - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BI4UQK0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I bought a slightly cheaper one.
The last time I built a computer was 11 years ago and this helps tremendously. I had to deal with my CPU running at 150-200F and crashing often until this came along..
It's a budget one, but it's been VERY good to me. I personally had to switch to a 75% only for Fortnite building and quieter red switches but it's got a lot of functionality that the super short keyboards don't have.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FXF7HFC/ref=twister_B07DDDV7W6?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
How about this?
I tried a 60% but I think I am a bit too old to retrain muscle memory and remain productive. I use the escape and`~ key way too much (due to both linux and vim). Maybe I should try again, though. Right now I am on this: https://www.amazon.com/Element-Water-Proof-Mechanical-Keyboard-Anti-Ghost/dp/B01FXF7HFC
https://www.amazon.com/Element-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-Switch/dp/B01FXF7HFC
only in white... it took forever to find
she wanted white, rainbow and clicky. I wanted no numpad and long term use.
FYI- no num pad has to do with ergonomics and desk spacing.
we love it so far
This
LED's are PCB mounted.
The extra switches are all Outemu Blues.
The sockets are only compatible with Outemu switches, but you can sharpen the pins slightly (left is clipped, right is stock) and fit other brands of switches in. I don't know how that'll affect the resale value of the switches.
The case itself resonates a bit more than other keyboards I've tried; bottoming out produces a satisfying but inconsistent "thwock". The stabilizers don't rattle at all, which is good, and the switches I've replaced feel perfectly secure as well.
That said, if you're considering dropping Gaterons in a board, you might want to look at their slightly more expensive ones; this sale is for the static rainbow-colored keyboard. For $15 more (or less if they go on sale/used) you can get the real per-key RGB lighting versions in either TKL or 75%.
Ended up researching into a bag and eventually found one I think will work well.
I will link to everything I've found on amazon. I have found others on our distributors website. Hopefully this will help others put together something as well!
Bag
SATA Adapter
Toolkit
Toner/Fox and Hound
Small LED Flashlight
Velcro Wire Ties - Zip ties are awful
Network Kit
External HDD
Analog Phone - For testing Fax Lines mainly
There's more, such as cables and things, but everyone should be OK with figuring that out for yourselves. Total the kit (with cables and stuff included) is only about $370.91 per technician.
Hope this helps someone!
While (probably) possible, that's not a great idea when doing it 'properly' is so cheap.
You can get a 128gb SSD and a UASP sata to usb 3.1 adapter together for about £30, maybre more or less depending on where you live. You'll gimp your performance a bit if you don't use a UASP compatible adapter - the prices for the UASP ones are basically the same, so just keep an eye out for that feature.
&nbsp;
This + this.
It’s a Sabrent, it was under $10.
Here’s the link:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_3aU7CbVSD95GK
Works great. You can also just use a SATA to USB3.0 adapter if you don’t care about the looks
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_4cU7Cb5QRX4CM
Yes it will. I am using this combo:
Sabrent USB 3.0 to SSD / 2.5-Inch... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011M8YACM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
plus
First Quality PVBNG-012 - Brief... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6JQS8C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
If you’re replacing your hdd with an ssd, I would recommending getting something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ZV22CbTVESH2Z
Then install Macrium Reflect and clone to your new drive. I remember there’s an option to adjust to different drive size.
After a brief google search, it appears that your product key is embedded in the bios. If it were my laptop, I would get a hold of something like this and clone your drive using the adapter, then just swap the drive and boot.
I recently moved my Windows 10 install from a 500GB WD Blue HDD over to a 1TB Crucial SSD using EaseUS Todo Backup's free version. There is a disk clone option built into the software for migrating to another drive. I also purchased a Sabrent USB 3.0 to SSD / 2.5-Inch SATA I/II/III Hard Drive Adapter to connect the SSD to my pc for the cloning process.
It was super easy to do.
I'm using this cable : https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1GBFzb7JA6RXN
I have two SATA/USB cable, I had the same problem with both :(
>Hot-plugging the SSD while booted into Linux doesn't make it detectable either
Maybe get one of these USB-SATA adapters and try them? Mine has a LED indicator similar to this? That way you could at least see whether there is any signs of life from the drive.
I buy bare drives like the previous link because they're cheaper and don't depend on proprietary hardware/software so a failure won't cost me too much. You can use a cable like this one that converts SATA to a USB connection. A laptop will provide enough power over USB to run SSDs and 2.5" HDDs, but I don't use a tablet, so I can't say if that'll work as easy. Search around and see what you find and TEST before you leave. I understand that a tablet might allow for less weight, smaller bags and such, but I personally find a laptop to be much more useful.
Stop using the machine now and power it down. Pull the hard drive from it, and get a SATA to USB adapter to connect it to a secondary computer. It will show up as a removable device mapped as a probably the D:\ or F:\ drive, or somewhere around there. On the secondary computer install Recuva and scan this drive, it should find any files marked for delete and will allow you to pull a copy of them. The SATA to USB adapter is a worthwhile investment for when things like this happen.
You could get a 120gb SSD along with a USB3/thunderbolt adapter for around 50$ and then install windows on that.
https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-Digital-SSDNow-SUV400S37-120G/dp/B01FJ4UN76
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM/
You need a sata to usb cable, like this.
Hey! Upgrading the classic macbook pro to an SSD is one of the most effective upgrades you can make as far as upgrading a laptop goes. It's very straightforward, and relatively low risk. Any 2.5" SATA SSD will do the job (I personally recommend Crucial MX500 drives), you'll also need a torx t5 and small phillips head driver. Work carefully, following the ifixit steps (removing the battery is key!), and you shouldn't cause any damage.
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+13-Inch+Unibody+Mid+2012+Hard+Drive+Replacement/10378
Before installing the drive, be sure to either make a time machine backup, or acquire a sata-to-USB adapter like this, or you'll lose access to your data! https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM
It's your hard drive failing. Have it replaced with an ssd and have your data imported in from the drive going bad. I see and do this everyday. Stop messing with it before it fails completely.
Edit: It's actually easy to handle this problem with a 10 dollar part. If you are interested, let me know and I will help you. https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521770855&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=sata+hard+drive+cable+to+usb
Thanks! I actually bought this and it should be arriving today or tomorrow. I just need an external disc drive to run the disc they give me, if I don't want to buy one I can download a program to do it right?
I bought this exact drive for my mom's laptop on Amazon 2 weeks or so ago when I saw the good deal. It's a great SSD but NOTE!!
It does NOT come with any cable or peripheries besides the manual and CD of Samsung's Cloning software and SSD Magician. I would recommend buying a SATA adapter to USB 3.0 for each. I bought this and it worked like a charm for cloning her old HDD to the new SSD - http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449613719&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=sata+to+usb+3.0
I just recommend that one because it's USB 3.0 and just $9.99 on Prime. But there are many others, simply type "SATA to USB adapter" on Amazon.
2013 MB Pros had M.2 drives or HDDs. If it was a HDD you're in luck, that's easy and not that expensive.
Just open it up and take out the hard, use a SATA to USB and essentially turn it into an external hard drive. You may need some freeware to convert the Mac files into Windows.
SATA to USB that we use in our shop: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=sata+to+usb&amp;qid=1574806896&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;sr=8-8
If it's the M.2 I would recommend you take it to a local computer shop and have them move the data as the tools are more expensive than the work.
What happened to the HDD? Physically lost (damaged, misplaced)? Or the OS is just wonky and you can't get into it?
If it's the second option, I can possibly help you get the data back if you can plug it into an external cable and use another computer to look at the contents of the HDD (if you haven't tried that already).
Sorry that this happened to you. It's happened to me twice before. I have backups of my important docs in the cloud, and on 8 separate hdds now. Always. I learned this the hard way.
EDIT: The cable you need is this - https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505575012&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=usb+to+sata
If, using another computer and this cable, in file explorer you see no HDD present, then the HDD has physical damage that would require more extensive work. If you see the hdd show up though. Double click on the hdd and browse its contents for your files. Hope they are there. If you need help in taking the hdd out of your computer, PM me.
Thanks chravus! That's exactly what I'm doing:
Sabrent USB 3.0 to SSD / 2.5-Inch SATA Hard Drive Adapter [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] (EC-SSHD)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LsDmyb0NPA589
I'm buying this.. as far as I can tell it's exactly the same as a caddy but just plugs in to the end.. right?
Thanks, you mean something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM
I am not sure if booting to linux would work or not. I cannot even get it to post if the SSD is plugged in. Booting from USB for windows repair failed, so did attempting a clean installation from USB.
Yeah, it would definitely only work with SSDs, as the 12V rail isn’t powered at all. There are USB to SATA adapters like these: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM, so it’s probably fine for SSDs. Most computers can sink more than 500mA nowadays.
Install the new os on the SSD and use one of these to extract the data. I use these all the time for work.
Sabrent USB 3.0 to SSD / 2.5-Inch: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tZRPCbG2F1C3Z
One more question, sorry! I am guessing I will need to buy a USB 3.0 cord as well to plug this all in when I am done, correct?
Would this be the right thing to buy? https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=pd_day0_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B011M8YACM&amp;pd_rd_r=DA51GCBC1XW6WS8DHESS&amp;pd_rd_w=l4SSR&amp;pd_rd_wg=gSq2m&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=DA51GCBC1XW6WS8DHESS
If the hard drive is still working, the easiest way is probably to buy a SATA drive cradle that connects to another computer with USB.
Something like this, this is just the first one google found.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Docking-Station-DS-UBLK/dp/B00IKAQ538
Take the drive out of the computer and plug it into a dock and it should show up as an external drive on whatever PC you connect the dock to.
Or maybe even simpler: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM
If the hard drive has failed, neither of these will do anything for you.
It sounds like you currently have a normal HDD and an m2 SSD, and just purchased an SSD. Then it sounds like you have only two spots, the m2 and the normal 2.5" bay.
If that is correct, for like $10 you can find a usb>sata connection (I in no way endorse this, was just the first I found https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525968376&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=usb+sata)
You will need a dvd or a usb drive, burn whatever flavor of disk copier you like (the Acronis rep here probably would say their product, but clonezilla or others would work as well). You'd boot from the usb/dvd (whichever you use), and would start the clone from your source drive to your new one.
I've done it numerous times (though I have an external 2 drive dock, as I do this pretty often, cloning drives that is) and works pretty flawlessly.
My suggestion is: Purchase one of these you'll use it a lot (i promise). Remove the old harddrive and make it into an external.
Since you don't already have a backup of your files (tisk tisk), I would create a dropbox, mega, google, and just bring the old laptop to the library and upload away. Bring the new laptop in, backup your files on that one first.
I can't stress enough how many times having that dongle saved my ass, highly suggest you get one. Or something like this.
A Sata to Usb tail is cheap as chips. It's worth it to have one around.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011M8YACM/
Thank you for your suggestions. As for the second part, do I need to find a specific iteration of SATA connection? Or would something like this connect to the drive?
I use this bad boy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011M8YACM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You have a few options that would allow you to test Linux without giving up Windows in the first place. It's easier to go back to Windows later, if it was never gone.
That being said, if you use a virtual machine [like VirtualBox], or install Linux on a USB flash drive, then you're not getting the completely native experience with Linux.
Running in a VM won't give Linux direct access to devices. Linux not having hardware level direct access to your video card may mean that some visual effects won't work right, and/or that it could be considerably slower.
If you install to a USB flash drive, then your disk access is going to be very slow, compared to HDD speeds, slower yet compared to SATA or NVMe SSD speeds.
If you configure your system to dual boot, then you have the option [at boot time] to boot into one operating system, or the other. This can be done non-destructively, by resizing your Windows partition down [free space allowing] during Linux install, then installing Linux partitions in the newly created free space.
I would recommend a dual boot system, personally. That's what I do, so I can go back and forth between them.
You can even set up virtual machines afterwards that allow you to access one from the other in a virtual machine, but that's a whole different fun thing to get into.
EDIT: I see now where you mention the lack of space on your current machine. You can grab a SATA SSD and a $10 USB3/SATA adapter and use that. Not really elegant, but neither is 32GB of storage, or using a slow USB flash.
I got 3 of these. They work great, fast, and they are compatible with smartmontools in Linux, so you can access the SMART system of a HDD, or SSD for testing and troubleshooting.
There are 2 possible hardware failure. Either the hard drive is bad or the cable connecting the drive. If you look underneath the back of your laptop there is a model number that begins with the letter "A" followed by 4 numbers.
To check if it's the hard drive, open the laptop and take out the drive then plug it into an external enclosure or cable. ($10 from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011M8YACM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1453229675&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=Sata+usb+3.0+cable&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51bXzhXZynL&amp;ref=plSrch)
Then plug it to your USB port. If it boots up then it's the SATA cable within the laptop that needs to be replaced. If it doesn't bootup from USB you will need a new drive.
The SATA cable can be replaced but requires opening the laptop. You can find replacement cable on eBay, just make sure it's for the correct model.
I've used a dozen of these USB3 SATA cables for the exact same purpose (on newer iMac with the glued-on display). It consistently saturates USB3 speed at 425MB/s for both read and write.
There's one issue you may encounter which is wake from sleep. This only occurs with certain brands of SSD though (Toshiba was one I recall having this sleep issue). Samsung and PNY SSDs have been working great.
Cheap.
I would suggest a different route, purchase quality headphones and a separate mic that you can either leave on the desk or attach to the headphones. You will get much better quality than "gaming" headphones for the same price, if you're spending 100 bucks or more, otherwise I've heard good things about these, the non-revolvers.
This one?
I mean the HyperX. The Cloud Core is available at 53.26$ right now: https://amazon.com/dp/B0153XL4V2
Do you mean the Hyper X Cloud Stinger or Hyper X Cloud Core? I looked up "Hyper X Cloud 1" on amazon and got no hits.
https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset-KHX-HSCC-BK/dp/B0153XL4V2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509833233&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hyperx+cloud+1&amp;dpID=51ok3Ti3DZL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Stinger-Headset-HX-HSCS-BK-NA/dp/B01L2ZRYVE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509833233&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=hyperx+cloud+1&amp;dpID=41yzC%252BtlRFL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Not all Turtle beach headsets have the feature. And are mostly plastic kids toys. Honestly some of the stuff they sell is almost funny how bad it is. I suggested to a friend to get the Phillips and instead he got the Recons. His mic has static in it all the time and we mute him until he agrees to buy a real headset. Also dig this $54.99 https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset-KHX-HSCC-BK/dp/B0153XL4V2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511820714&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=hyperx+cloud+xbox
It will be a mono-headset. You'll play like a potato with one of those. You should save a little more and get something like this (Kingston HyperX Cloud) or even a lesser known brand, like SADES. But believe me, anything will be better than that. Unless you have only one year...
Cloud core is OK and on sale for 60 bucks right now
I would call myself a moderate audiophile but I'm also not willing to spend >$200 on headphones. I currently have a pair of kingston hyperx cloud IIs and they are the best headphones by far for the price. Sound great and extremely comfy. They are also currently on sale for $120. A slightly cheaper option is the cloud core at $100, which is the exact same headphone, just without anything extra. The cloud II has a usb control box for volume, mute, and simulated 7.1. They have a new model, the cloud alphas at $142, which I want to buy. Sound better, has better inline controls, and a removable cord.
They will work with anything that has a headphone jack. The mic boom is removable and has a small plug to cover the hole when it's out. As for sound quality, the bass is loud and clear, even at high levels. The mids are a little weak but if you have access to an equalizer you can make the headphones sound all around awesome. Mids sound better on the alphas because of the dual chamber audio. They sound very good on my phone using poweramp's equilizer. I use them basically exactly how it sounds like you plan on using them, except with a bit of metal and rap mixed in.
So my recommendation is alpha if you want the best for under $150, cloud II if you want something cheaper with inline controls on pc, or the core if you don't need any of the extras.
This sub is more catered/focused on studio/reference gear rather than gaming headsets. I've tried a decent amount of mid-high end headphones as well as gaming headsets. The best headset I've heard so far is the HyperX Cloud. They're basically studio headphones with some tweaks and a mic slapped on them. There are some more expensive tiers but I guess they run into more quality/build issues.
On another note, I'd avoid surround sound if I were you. Games already use a form of binaural audio (3d positional audio emulation) that lets you discern direction just fine with stereo headphones. The surround sound thing is mainly a gimmick and I find usually sounds worse than stereo. It also costs money to implement surround so less money is put into the headphone itself and more into the surround technology, taking further away from the sound.
On sale on Amazon for $60 currently: https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset-KHX-HSCC-BK/dp/B0153XL4V2/ref=pd_sbs_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B0153XL4V2&amp;pd_rd_r=DNWE1B8HK5CDR9DJ6CBC&amp;pd_rd_w=OMaNe&amp;pd_rd_wg=gckpK&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=DNWE1B8HK5CDR9DJ6CBC
I got my wife the cloud core and was SUPER impressed with it. I have the Logitech G430 myself and it is also and excellent headset. I'm very confident that at either of these price points you will be extremely satisfied with your purchase.
This one right? I'm looking for a new PC/XB1 headset.
https://www.amazon.ca/Kingston-HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset/dp/B0153XL4V2/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501023175&amp;sr=1-2
you could always try the Cloud II headset. These have a USB input and either 5.1 or 7.1 surround and I've seen them go on sale for around $50 a few times. I'm rocking the Cloud Core headset and can't really notice a hhuuggee difference between mine and my friend's turtle beaches.
https://www.amazon.ca/Kingston-HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset/dp/B0153XL4V2
Lists the difference on that page. The major difference is actually the audio control box, and that it's USB connection for the extension cable.
https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Core-Gaming-Headset/dp/B0153XL4V2/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1542661036&sr=8-8&keywords=hyperx+cloud+2
Looks like the main difference between the "Core" headset and the one I have is that mine offers 7.1 Surround Sound and has a USB attachment. The Core headset seems to offer only Stereo sound and uses a standard audio jack. You can compare all the HyperX headsets on their Amazon page
https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Core-Gaming-Headset/dp/B0153XL4V2
EDIT: That said, I paid about $100 for mine and to get a model even remotely comparable for $30 seems like one hell of a deal
The XO Ones perform well for the price and include a good chat adapter with some extra features but their build quality is pretty plasticky.
For overall sound and build quality in that price range you probably can't do better much better than the HyperX Clouds. They have a core model without all the extras that works great for the consoles:
https://www.amazon.ca/Kingston-HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset/dp/B0153XL4V2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486236788&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=HyperX+cloud
The Clouds do not come with a chat adapter though so you will need one of your own (you can use the one that came with your MS headset), a chatpad, or a new controller with the built in jack.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0153XL4V2/ref=asc_df_B0153XL4V25069823/?tag=shopbotca-20&amp;creative=395285&amp;creativeASIN=B0153XL4V2&amp;linkCode=df0
Just get the Cloud Core instead
I was under the impression the G430 was a solid budget headset, but I honestly don't know much about headsets so...
I am aware it's usually better quality-wise to buy headphones + microphone (as two different pieces rather than a combo) but this would be very impractical due to how my PC is setup.
When you say Cloud Core, I assume you refer to the Kingston HyperX Cloud Core ?
I recommend you get a HyperX Cloud. Many a budget gamer swears by these. https://www.amazon.ca/Kingston-HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset/dp/B0153XL4V2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492576182&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hyperx+cloud (Also, the G430 is way better than the 230 for the price.)
Try the HyperX cloud
or add 10 dollars for
The HyperX Cloud Core
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;field-keywords=fiio+headphone+amp&amp;rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Afiio+headphone+amp
However, if you want the headphones soley for gaming, I would actually recommend getting this:
https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset-KHX-HSCC-BK/dp/B0153XL4V2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494334333&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=hyperx+cloud
Build quality is unrivaled. The sound is very good IMO, on par with the popular M50X by Audio Technica, and has a decent microphone. I actually use mine alot over my more expensive headphones due to convenience.
Should I get HyperX Cloud Core or HyperX Cloud Stinger? Which mic is better and how good is the sound quality on both? Are they similar enough that I shouldn't pay 20 extra dollars for a cloud core?
EDIT: Or should I get cloud I because it's only about 7 dollars more than cloud cores?
https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-KHX-H3CL-WR-HyperX-Headset/dp/B00JJNQG98/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480319750&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=HyperX+Cloud
https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Stinger-Headset-HX-HSCS-BK-NA/dp/B01L2ZRYVE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480319750&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=HyperX+Cloud
https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset-KHX-HSCC-BK/dp/B0153XL4V2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480319852&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=HyperX+Cloud+core
Everything on your son's list looks pretty reasonably to me. Nothing is outrageously expensive for the use case, and I don't see any glaring errors.
I do have a couple points to bring up. They don't necessarily mean that your son is wrong, but they are just things I would do differently.
Headset - I don't have a good opinion of Razer at all. They tend to have terrible quality control and a high failure rate in their products after just 1-2 years of use. In this price range, you may be able to find the Kingston HyperX Cloud on sale. Better yet, if your son only needs headphones and not a headset (he is already getting a separate mic), there are much better options for $50.
https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Core-Gaming-Headset/dp/B0153XL4V2/
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M20x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR18
https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-H840-Audiophile-Over-Headphones/dp/B01J7K0OYU
Mic - I get that the Blue Snowball is a super popular mic, but I think it's overrated. Especially if you plan to mostly use it for talking. In general, I try to avoid condenser mics because I don't like how much background noise they pick up. If you're primarily doing instrument recordings, then the extra sensitivity of a condenser mic is good. But if you mostly want to record yourself talking then a dynamic mic will be much cleaner.
Check out the Samson Q2U or Audio Technica AT2005USB
https://www.amazon.com/Samson-Handheld-Microphone-Recording-Podcasting/dp/B001R747SG/
https://www.amazon.com/Technica-AT2005USB-Handheld-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B007JX8O0Y/
Mic Stand - I own this exact same mic stand. It is pretty decent for the price. Just be aware that it mounts to your desk. In the google doc, you wrote that it is a "wall mount", it is not.
AKG 240's would be pretty great at the top of your budget, but lack some low end.
Hyper X cloud's core are well regarded if you wanted a headset.
Hyper X Cloud Core $100 best headset I've ever owned, going on 3 years now.
Hyper X Cloud Alpha >$150 Currently saving up for these , cause I ran over the cable on my Core and had to tape it to get it to work.
I had a $40 pair of turtle beeches that fell apart and sounded ok.
I now have HyperX Clouds and they're fantastic.
Cloud core
The "HyperX Cloud I" is $85 now, and is the same as the Cloud Core, but with a bunch of extra cables, a nicer box, and a 2nd set of pads (velour).
https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset-KHX-HSCC-BK/dp/B0153XL4V2
I bought them while I was attending IEM Katowice 2017 at HyperX booth
It may be nothing special but I like those headphones very much. I have no experience with gaming headsets though so for someone else who is used to high quality gear it may be not o big deal.
https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset-KHX-HSCC-BK/dp/B0153XL4V2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505403779&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=hyperx+cloud
These are only $69.99 new.
I don't have experience with the Siberia, but I do know that the Clouds are best regarded for price to performance.
They also have the HyperX Cloud Stinger, which is a newer model for the budget-minded. It's only $50 new.
I'd watch both of these over the next few days, there is sure to be sales on them somewhere for the holidays.
I saw your comment about the headset. There is a headset that is considered really good by both gamers and audiophiles, which is unusual cause audiophiles consider almost every gaming headset overpriced trash.
Its the HyperX Cloud 2 or the previous version the HyperX Cloud if you dont want to spend more money, i can assure you both are way better than the official ps headphones or the turtle beach.
HyperX Cloud 2
HyperX Cloud
If you want a deeper and more insightful recommendation about headphones make sure to check out this subreddit r/Headphones
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0153XL4V2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509726288&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=hyperx+headset&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51ok3Ti3DZL&amp;ref=plSrch ?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0153XL4V2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1464373017&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=hyperx+cloud+core&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31QKMfz4iFL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0153XL4V2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524450200&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=hyper+cloud+x&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51ok3Ti3DZL&amp;ref=plSrch
Granted, but at least not one running all the way back to your PC.
I'm using the HyperX Cloud Core Gaming Headset which has a handy 3.5mm plug ~3ft from the headset itself so, easy enough to plug in without it being distracting.
The current downside being, it's not a small headset and getting it to fit under (won't go over) the rift is almost as time consuming as having to reset up my sensors after a cat knocks them around.
So if I'm using this headset, which has a single audio line that splits at the plugs, I would have to plug a M-M from the pc to the mixer, a M-M from the switch to the mixer, and then the audio jack on from my headset into the mixer and the microphone jack into the pc? I have my Switch plugged in to my first monitor and my PC into both, and I change the the input on my monitor when I want to play the Switch.
I'm assuming it's this set that's meant?
I'm okay with spending the $68^(.99) on it, I just am always hesitant to buy new headsets because I have some odd luck. My Turtle Beach PX21's I started off with broke within a year or so. I think I then downgraded to the P11's and they lasted me maybe 4 to 6 years. And then the SADES SA708 which lasted me maybe two years.
Do you know if the HyperX headsets come with a "built in" n-year warranty?
Edit: the hs50 comes with a two-year warranty according to the Amazon description, nothing mentioned on the core's page.
This: https://www.amazon.com/Qisan-Keyboard-Mechanical-68-Keys-Magicforce/dp/B01ABUJ2KM/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484494926&amp;sr=8-14&amp;keywords=magicforce
Will probably be my choice then. It's white, which i've rather not have but I guess I can replace the keycaps.
are gateron and kalih switches the same, or similar? I ordered by mistake Kalih switches
Link: https://www.amazon.com/Qisan-Keyboard-Mechanical-68-Keys-Magicforce/dp/B01ABUJ2KM/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484065201&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=Qisan
Edit: Do those keyboards come with Blue Gateron Switches
I'm planning on getting my first mechanical keyboard and could really use some advice. At the moment, I'm torn between:
The first two use Cherry MX Clears and I'm not really sure how to judge the relative quality of the boards. Does anybody have any opinions on that? The third option is an inexpensive board using OUTEMU blues. That's me wondering whether I should dip my foot in the water a little bit before committing to something more expensive.
I used a Cherry Mx Blue keyboard for a couple of minutes recently and my first reaction was that the keys were surprisingly light and easy to bottom out. I then bought a switch tester and found the Clears to seem nicest; quiet with a strong tactile bump and a high force after actuation to prevent bottoming out. I'm just wondering if I only prefer this due to familiarity because I'm used to using the old-style Thinkpad keyboards which are most similar to the Clears. Maybe if I forced myself to use a lighter keyboard then I would adjust and end up loving it. Or maybe I should get Greens or Browns as a bit of a compromise.
So, if anybody has any advice on the V80 TKL vs the KUL ES-87 then that would be awesome. I would also love to hear any broader advice on whether I should trust my first impressions or just start with a more popular and less expensive switch to see how I adjust. I'm sure that plenty of people here have made a similar transition from rubber domes.
Here's the MF68 in stock on Amazon with Outemu blues. I've tried a bunch of cheap mechanical keyboards at work and at home, and for my money the MF68 is by far my favorite. It's a solid board, great switches, great layout with no weird size caps (meaning any standard cap set will fit it), and the stock caps are nice thick ABS. The only thing I don't like about it is the cap font. Access to the Fn key combos is intuitive. Hands down the best $40 board out there today.
Edit: I missed where you said you wanted backlighting, my bad. Getting a solid board with backlighting pushes you over $40, at least by my idea of solid. I'd get one without backlighting and upgrade if you miss it?
Is the only difference between the two versions the switch type? Trying to figure out why one is $40 and the other is $60 on amazon.
Outemu Blues: Rose Gold, Silver
Outemu Blacks: Rose Gold, Silver
Outemu Browns: Silver
There are a bunch more at the $60-$90 price point but I'm pretty sure I hit all the $40 ones.
How similar are Outemu blue switches to Cherry MX blues?
I tried typing on a friend's Das keyboard with Cherry blues and I really liked it. I don't have a large budget so I was looking at the MagicForce 68 which claims the keys are "Cherry MX equivalent".
The Magicforce 68 key is a great TKL with a selection of brown, blue and black
OutemuKailh switches. There's also a backlit version but I have no idea what colour it is.Blue Switches
Brown Switches
Black Switches
Backlit - Blue Switches
Best of all, the Magicforce is cheap. Really cheap.
edit: they're not outemu
US Links:
Blue Switches
Black Switches
Brown Switches
Browns will be the lightest and blacks the heaviest.
Hey there, I'm looking to get into mechanical keyboards after mostly typing on laptop keyboards, and after some research on this subreddit as well as other websites that the Magicforce is my best bet for a beginner mechanical keyboard. However, I'm having trouble deciding between the Outemu blue and the brown versions. I really like the clicky tactile feel of the blues, but I also regularly play FFXIV while on Mumble, so that might annoy the people I'm talking to. I've also heard the Outemu blues are louder than the Cherry blues as well. Which one should I get? I realize switch preference is entirely subjective, but I'm just wondering if the blues are THAT much louder.
If you're looking for a budget mech with blue switches, the Magicforce 68 is quite well regarded in available with your choice of Cherry, Gateron, or Outemu blues
For 'most' people, especially those new to the hobby, the go-to gaming switch seems to be mx blues. It really is extremely subjective though. Lots of people prefer quieter tactile switches or linears. Actuation weight varies a lot too. I personally prefer a heavier switch, so the first board I bought (which I'm still using) has mx greens (similar to mx blues, but heavier springs), and for my next board which I plan to custom build, I'm going even heavier and more clicky. I'll be spending a good bit more than $100USD on it though. Another big factor is size. Would you prefer a smaller board? How attached are you to your numpad? What about your FN row? Arrow keys? All things you have to decide before buying. If you just want something cheap, but decent, with mechanical switches to try, here is a very low cost "60%" (I'd call it more like 65% because of the arrow keys, but idk) sold on amazon, with good reviews.. This one has blue (tactile clicky) switches, but it comes in brown (tactile) and black (linear) varients as well. I really would recommend putting a bit more time into researching the different types of switches/ board sizes and maybe even invest in a switch tester from NovelKeys or make a post on /r/mechmarket asking if anyone has one with good, entry level switches they will sell you for cheap.
Planinng to buy a Qisan magicforce Kailh blue switches is it good?
link http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ABUJ2KM?psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ABUJ2KM/ref=psdc_12879431_t1_B01AXN24AC
The QuickFire Rapid and the Magicforce 68 are great starter options.
It's the MagicForce Blue Switch 68-Keys Mini but I wouldn't recommend it. It's cheap and the perfect form factor for my taste but it's extremely noisy due to the stabilizers and I believe aluminium frame. I prefer my New Poker 2 over the MagicForce by far. I bought it to test out the form factor before I drop $200 on the NightFox.
I love mini keyboards but I need the arrow keys for text editors when working. I believe the NightFox to be the perfect keyboard for this. The build quality is insanely over engineered and top shelf. I may go ahead and replace it now because I just noticed the NightFox is on sale for $150. Woop Woop!
I would advise checking posts on /r/mechmarket first. If you don't see anything there you like, here are a few new options in your budget:
Here you go. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ABUJ2KM/
Too big? Try this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0797GZ44K/
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01ABUJ2KM/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;srs=7936345011&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500090399&amp;sr=1-3
Same board with outemu blues, it's just got a silver case and white caps.
https://www.amazon.com/Qisan-Keyboard-Mechanical-Backlight-keyboard/dp/B01890YINM/ref=sr_1_17?s=pc&amp;srs=7936345011&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500090399&amp;sr=1-17
Here's a 75% with Gateron Blues It's got the black case and caps if the above one wasn't your speed.
I have this one.
Also comes in full size and tenkeyless.
https://www.amazon.com/Element-Mechanical-Keyboard-Programmable-Backlit/dp/B01FXBZXFC
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EJ0ZHS6/
There's this one too.
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01ABUJ2KM
Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xXwQQZGE1U
Right now, I'm using a Logitech K120 on a mac mini. I don't have too much money to blow, but I really want a legit mechanical keyboard. Nothing fancy: I don't care for backlit lights or programmable keys and stuff. So far, I've found this Magicforce 68 which is cheap and even recommended on the wiki here.
My only concern is that the switches are not legit Cherry MX ones, and I don't know if I can get custom keycaps for it. If anyone has or used the $40 magicforce 68, please tell me what you think of it.
does this come with Gateron switches ?
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01ABUJ2KM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492556309&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=qisan+blue
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01ABUJ2KM/ref=pd_sim_147_7?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B01ABUJ2KM&amp;pd_rd_r=5D4XR589PRRE7P6VADJ0&amp;pd_rd_w=INsBf&amp;pd_rd_wg=XCYJS&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=5D4XR589PRRE7P6VADJ0
i have this one in my closet blue switches but its not a full keeb its a 60% so depends of that works for u blue were to loud for my gf so i dont use it but its a great keeb
Found this on amazon. Looks good for $40, but I have not tried it myself
Brand new, $40.
Or you can get a new K552 with not amazing but still clicky switches for $28 +$$$ for backlighting, though.
Not going to find much else decent in that budget, especially around here.
Mechanical Keyboard Wired Keyboard Blue Switch 68-Keys Mini Design (60%) Gaming Keyboard White Silver by Magicforce Qisan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ABUJ2KM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sVyOzbVBTFNAF
Corsair Gaming MM300 Anti-Fray Cloth Gaming Mouse Pad, Extended https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01798VS4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TWyOzbYWHDC1F
Headset: HyperX Cloud or Cloud II (like $20 more). Both are under $100.
Mouse: Any slightly older Logitech. G40X is common. I like the G402.
Keyboard: If you're okay with a TKL, this Magicforce 68 with browns has been lovely to me.
Mousepad: Qck or Qck+ are pretty common picks
No. All sorts of mech parts and boards come on here. If your interested in a TKL with browns, I’d recommend a MagicForce 68.
Mechanical Keyboard Wired Keyboard Blue Switch 68-Keys Mini Design (60%) Gaming Keyboard White Silver by Magicforce Qisan
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ABUJ2KM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tpoRAb7FM2M03
Outemu browns are pretty nice. I’ve owned this board for over a year and have been satisfied.
The biggest question you want to answer for any mechanical keyboard is which type of switch you want.
Most exclusive gamers like linear switches, which let you double tap very effectively. These are usually sold as 'red' switches.
There's also clicky switches, which have a sharp bump and audible click when the key actuates. Sold as 'blue' switches.
Then there's tactile switches, which have a lighter bump when the key actuates (they're as quiet as reds). They're sold as browns, and are somewhat of an intermediate between red and blue.
Generally speaking, blues are for exclusively typing, reds for exclusively gaming, and browns are good for a mixture. I'd recommend going to a Fry's/Microcenter/Best Buy (in that order) and finding which of the three you prefer on a in store model. Brands vary between their implementation of clickly/tactile/linear, but not too much.
Then, figure out whether you need programmable macros and such. I usually play games that really don't require them, so it's a non issue for me.
If so, that tends to be the one feature that gaming marketed keyboards have over the others at this price point. Coolermaster is generally the only gaming themed company I respect much. Their stuff is well priced, and makes some cool innovations. And their keys have a standard layout.
If no, then you have a ton of good options and budget plays a big role. You could get the wireless Anne pro. The rgb Ducky Shine. Or the excellently budgeted Magicforce 68. You could get a WASD keyboard and completely customize individual keycap color.
Any of those would be good options, as well as more but it's probably already overwhelming.
You can get a Magicforce 68 which is commonly referred to as the best budget Keyboard. They come in Cherry MX and OUTEMU switched.
Disclaimer: Mine is arriving from amazon today so i not actually tested one of these, but on r/MK you can find people's reviews
Non backlit OUTEMU switch:
White keyboard with Black OUTEMU switches $39.98
White keyboard with Brown OUTEMU switches $39.98
White keyboard with Blue OUTEMU switches $39.98
Gold keyboard with Blue OUTEMU switches $39.98
Gold keyboard with Black OUTEMU switches $39.98
Backlit Cherry MX switch:
White keyboard with Brown Cherry MX switches & White LEDS $69.99
White/Silver keyboard with Blue Cherry MX switches & Blue LEDS $69.99
Qisan Mechanical Keyboard w/ Blue switches
Value mouse wise, a gpro wired + paracord + hyperglides is still cheap, and the g305 is also fantastic bang-for-your-buck. The new lightspeed wireless mice (g305, GPW) are indistinguishable from wired, latency wise. I also have the glorious odin on pre-order, and everything i've read from people that have gotten to test it indicates that it'll be a top-of-the-line mouse.
Value keyboard wise: the magicforce 60% is like a ducky without any of the bells or whistles for $40
Outemo.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ABUJ2KM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ABUJ2KM/ref=psd_mlt_nbc_B017N5SH6S_prb. Common on /r/mechanicalkeyboards and is reputable and reliable.
I'm looking at buying the Magicforce 68 off Amazon for $40.. This is my third board but I've never bought keycaps for a board. I currently have a CM Storm Quickfire TK and I understand that it has non-standard keycaps so I never bothered. Does the Magicforce 68 have standard keycaps? For a full replacement of keycaps on the board, how much would it cost (approximately)?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ABUJ2KM/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496240704&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=magicforce&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41JrKWyK32L&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N0XQI2A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496240817&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=mechanical+keyboard&amp;psc=1
There are too many 'bad' ideas. Compressed air could spray moisture, the vacuum cleaner could create static.
I use a small paint brush with natural hair and a vacuum cleaner. So far nothing bad happened. There are also air-blowers. This hand blower might be an option. This electrical blower too.
No, if you look at the black version, it states that you're getting the referenced discount. The green version appears to be set at $50.
I'd suggest alternatively looking into an electric duster like this.
This'll be quite a bit cheaper in the long run, so long as you don't mind plugging it in.
You could buy one of these: https://www.amazon.com/XPOWER-Airrow-Multi-Use-Electric-Computer/dp/B01BI4UQK0/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=duster&amp;qid=1561980685&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-10
Not sure how cost efficient that is though.
this is not a jo0ke. i just realized how powerful this leaf blower is. but i still wanted to know if leaf blowers can push out static air that would harm components. air cans are easier but are limited supply so i will probably get somethinglike this
Here you go
Thanks! Glad you liked it. Yes I use the X power Air Blower and it is great! I dry my entire car with it. The car is ceramic coated so the water beads and falls off so easily.
Something like this is cheaper and more appropriate IMO.
Just blow it out, outside, don't let the fans spin.
https://www.amazon.com/XPOWER-Airrow-Multi-Use-Electric-Computer/dp/B01BI4UQK0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543600880&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=air+blower+for+computer
I use this to clean my computer and the box doesn't take up that much space
I've used this one, and a friend of mine has this one, both have significantly weaker pressure.
this one https://www.amazon.com/XPOWER-Airrow-Multi-Use-Electric-Computer/dp/B01BI4UQK0/
Fuck compressed air. Stop buying them and invest in This instead. Be careful though, two power settings and it's really strong.
If you want to remove dust from your figure, use this, it's way faster.
https://www.amazon.com/XPOWER-Airrow-Multi-Use-Electric-Computer/dp/B01BI4UQK0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Blower+computer&amp;qid=1570555052&amp;sr=8-1
But you should open you window more often and dust your room at least twice a week.
XPOWER A-2 Airrow Pro Multi-Use Electric Computer Duster Dryer Air Pump Blower - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BI4UQK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-ha0DbFJPTGHB
I want to upgrade from compressed air cans to a air blower to remove dust from computers and impress neatfreaks.
Any suggestions aside from this XPower duster?
Just picked one of these up, couldn't reccomend it enough.
XPOWER A-2 Airrow Pro Multi-Use Electric Computer Duster Dryer Air Pump Blower - Black
If you want to save money in the long run, check out Electric Computer Dusters like this. You can use it to clean dust off of pretty much anything.
https://www.amazon.com/XPOWER-Airrow-Multi-Use-Electric-Computer/dp/B01BI4UQK0/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_rm?ac_md=0-0-eHBvd2VyIGJsb3dlcg%3D%3D-ac_d_rm&keywords=xpower+blower&pd_rd_i=B01BI4UQK0&pd_rd_r=ad8dad1f-fc71-4bdc-be3c-a57a40ac3d09&pd_rd_w=3ZwgD&pd_rd_wg=P6vdX&pf_rd_p=2938a786-9bec-4d37-8c06-456e3edce5d1&pf_rd_r=XC35VVYAFZ3V8KTVVSN0&psc=1&qid=1572070752
I have one of these for cleaning my desktop occasionally. I recommend not using a que tip as the fuzzies will get stuck in the slot or pull a pin or something. Also, compressed air is ok but careful not to move the can while the spray is going or it will release moisture is what i've experienced.
I got myself something like this.
Yes search for the data vac or the xpower airduster on amazon. They have the same power as a can and you just plug them in costs about $50. Perfectly fine to use on your pc as well just turn it off and unplug first.Edit: https://www.amazon.com/XPOWER-Airrow-Multi-Use-Electric-Computer/dp/B01BI4UQK0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=xpower&amp;qid=1554079811&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3 here's a direct link, i have this and it works pretty well.
Probably repeated by many others, never cheap out on a power supply as that sounds to be the source of the problem. The PS is like the beating heart of your computer pumping a constant flow of electricity to all the other components. If the heart goes out, so does everything else.
As for cases I highly reccomend any of Fractal Design's Define series. Great dust filters that are easy to clean!
Additionally for dust, use canned air regularly, at least monthly, or get yourself one of these. I use mine regularly and it has saved money on canned air in just 6 months! I even use it to dust other things out like tower fans, behind the bed and toher areas hard to reach with a vacuum
Duster I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BI4UQK0/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483371283&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=computer+duster&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41oVo6kY56L&amp;ref=plSrch
Thermal paste: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0045JCFLY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483371351&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=thermal+paste&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31H%2BzKu4DEL&amp;ref=plSrch
I would use a portable compressor instead of canned air, as the temperature difference could cause paint damage. For reference the canned air can I have warns that the contents are highly flammable, toxic, and can cause frostbite when sprayed on the skin.
Something like https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BI4UQK0/ would be safer.
Papi, bili ka nalang ng ganito.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BI4UQK0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
Pa freight forwarder (jinio, myshippingbox, etc) mo nalang. Meron din sa lazada pero putang ina ng seller kung makapatong.
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Much better than compressed air and an overall great solution for cleaning PCs, keyboards, etc