Samsung 860 EVO 1 TB is $127 on Amazon now

Edit: Link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5xH-BbMMK4E5A

Just to BUILD an HTML site requires no hosting or domain! Once you have a built site that you want to display to the public though:

First, get a domain:

• I use Google Domains.
  
• Namecheap is also super great.
  
• If you use shared hosting (see below), they often offer included domain names with your purchase.
  
  Second, find hosting:
  
  
• Github Pages offers great static site hosting. Free.
  
• Shared hosting like DreamHost is great if you aren't comfortable managing your own server but want access to databases (they also give you email addresses with webmail access). Costs a monthly fee.
  
• Use a combination of PaaS like Heroku and Firebase. Free (can pay for more features/performance).
  
• Your own VPS (virtual private server) like Digital Ocean lets you configure just about everything if you're okay with system administration. Costs a monthly fee.
  
• Buy a Raspberry Pi and hook it up to your router (assuming your ISP gives you a public IP address). This is essentially setting up your own server. One time cost.
  
  Third, figure out how you want to make the site:
  
  
• Use a CMS like WordPress, BoltCMS, Grav, DjangoCMS, etc...
  
• Use a static site generator like Hugo or Hexo.
  
• Write everything yourself (too many options out there to link, depends on your language/technology preference). This is the route you're going.
  
  Other stuff:
  
  
• You can get free SSL certs for your site (especially important if people are going to be entering information) from Let's Encrypt.
  
• CloudFlare acts as a CDN and IPS/IDS to help protect and optimize your site (they have a free plan).
  
• A good option for students is to grab the Github Student Developer Pack, which includes a bunch of free goodies.
  
  EDIT:
  
  A few more things you can play with:
  
  
• C9 is cool for prototyping and playing around in a VPS playground with a nice built-in editor. It has a free plan, but last I checked it still requires a payment card for verification.
  
• HyperDev is another cool Node-specific playground.
  
• Forestry.io is a new service that gives you CMS-like functionality with Github Pages. I have not used it.
  
• Prose is an editor application for managing Github content.

Nintendo's "strategy" led me to successfully build a RetroPie using a RaspberryPi starter kit. Now I have a NES mini and an SNES mini all in one with just about every title ever released for both systems. And I can play Quake on it.

If you ever get in a future accident (hope you don’t) have you figured out how you’re going to show the video? Like would you show cops the video on-scene immediately, potentially giving them hours of other video of your driving, or wait and only use it if you have to?

Edit: The “Amazon’s choice” dash cam I just looked at has an internal mic, too. So if you’re on the freeway singing or spittin’ fire along with your favorite artist (“Move, bitch, get out the way!”) when you get in an accident, they’ll hear that too. It shouldn’t matter, but keep it in mind.

>5% off an SSD

It's not exactly Black Weekend, but I got 35% of an 1TB Evo 860 last week and the sale is still going (it's on BestBuy and Amazon, Amazon is a few bucks cheaper somehow) - that's roughly $130.

Hey so I hate to shit in on everyone else's opinions, but they're not really recommending the best gear for your dollar. /r/audiophile has a sticky on this exact subject. Basically the lowest end system they are willing to recommend is a pair of Micca MB42s . If you can spring for the 42x's, they are more than worth the 10 extra dollars. You will need an amplifier to drive them. /r/audiophile reccomends the Muse m50, but I can tell you from personal experience, a lepai 2020a+ with a slightly beefier power supply will run them just fine for half the price. These are pretty chunky speakers, but they'll blow any "pc/gaming" speakers out of the water. If you decide you'd like to go for this, I have about 30 feet of speaker wire lying around that I'd be happy to mail to you to save you the 8 bucks or so. Hope this helps, and happy listening!

> some dash cams can record even with the car off

I've got one for like $100 off Amazon that has this security feature. Quite handy for everyone imho.

Edit: link

Last update 11/27 1:36am pacific || Removed bold from some items, pruning of dead deals coming.

If the first field is bold it is a new deal

Note, I've hit the text limit so I'm limiting extra text.


 


Headphone | Price | Store | Notes
------------------ |-------|--------|-----------
BeyerDynamic DT 1770 Pro | $416 | Amazon | Available for $405 shipped via 3rd party
BeyerDynamic 990 250 ohm pro | $109 | Amazon | Lowest price ever on Amazon. Thanks /u/Jedi_Pacman!
BeyerDynamic T1 Second Gen | $1099 | BuyDig via ebay |
Sennheiser HD600 | $260 | Amazon | Thanks /u/aasteveo!
BeyerDynamic DT 880 600 ohm | $169 | Amazon | Lowest price on record for both Amazon and 3rd party.
BeyerDynamic DT 770 80 ohm | $118 | Amazon | Thanks /u/ASpaceman :)
Chord Mojo Amp / DAC + NVX XPT100 Studio Headphones | $549 | Sonic Electronix |
MrSpeakers ETHER C Flow | $1620 | MrSpeakers | Thanks /u/MrSpeakers !
MrSpeakers ETHER Flow | $1619 | MrSpeakers | Thanks /u/MrSpeakers !
Samson SR950 | $24 | Adorama
Sennheiser IE80 | $179 | Amazon | Thanks /u/LOMOcatVasilii Also available at Sonic Electronix
Stax SR-L500 + SRM252S | $1009| Shenzhen Audio |
DUNU DN-2000J | $269 | Shenzhen Audio |
TFZ Series 5S | $69 | Shenzhen Audio via Amazon |
Fanmusic E6 | $39 | Shenzhen Audio
Simgot EN700 | $69 | Shenzhen Audio
FORREST FLC8S | $269 | Shenzhen Audio
Audioquest NightHawk | $349 | Crutchfield | Also available from Needledoctor
Audio-Technica ATH-M20x | $27 | BuyDig | Add to cart for final price
Beyerdynamic DT 880 32 ohm includes $50 newegg gift card | $159.99 | Newegg | Also available at BuyDig for $139 add to cart to see discount
Beyerdynamic T90 Chrome Limited Edition 250 OHM| $279 | BuyDig| Also available at Newegg for $299 w/$40 gift card
Sennheiser PC360 headset | $99 | Amazon
Monoprice USB DAC Headphone Amp | $49.99 | Monoprice |
BeyerDynamic DT 770 16ohm | $100 | ebay | Also available at BuyDig for $109
BeyerDynamic A20 Amp | $294 | BuyDig | Use code "DIGTURKEY5"
Westone UM Pro 10 | $99 | Amazon
HiFiMan Edition X | $1299 | Music Direct | Thanks to /u/boombap33 for pointing this out
V-Moda Crossfade M-100 Black | $176.54 | Musician's Friend | Includes free Boompro mic. Use code "blackfriday"
Sennheiser PC350 Headset | $78 | Newegg |
Sennheiser Momentum In Ear | $70 | Amazon | Android or iOS versions
BeyerDynamic DT 1350 | $119 | Adorama
BeyerDyanmic DT 880 250 ohm Chrome version | $149 | BuyDig via ebay
Superlux HD668B | $25 | Gearbest |
Audeze LCD-4 | $2999 | Adorama
Audeze LCD-3 | $1349 | Adorama
Audeze LCD-XC Limited Leather | $1299 | Adorama
Audeze Sine | $299 | Adorama
Audeze Sine w/Lightning Cable | $359 | Adorama
Audeze LCD-2 Rosewood w/Lambskin | $749 | Adorama
Audeze LCD-2 Bamboo w/Lambskin | $699 | Adorama
Audeze LCD-2 Aluminum w/Lambskin | $699 | Adorama |
Hifiman HE-400i | $249 | Headamp | Use code "HEADFI10" thanks to /u/Chillindude82Nein for the better deal!
Hifiman SuperMini DAP + iFi nano iDSD + Fiio Cable| $394 | BuyDig | use code "DIGTURKEY10"|
Audeze 2015 EL8 Open | $404.10 | HeadAmp | Use code "BF2016"
Audeze 2015 EL8 Close| $404.10 | HeadAmp | Use code "BF2016"
Audio-Technica ATH-R70x includes $25 newegg gift card| $224 | Newegg |
Fostex TH-900mk2| $999 | Adorama |
Audio-Technica ATH-MSR7 Black| $189 | Amazon
Audio-Technica ATH-MSR7 Gun Metal | $189 | Amazon
Philips SHP9500S | $50 | Newegg |


 


General Discounts | Discount | Notes
------|---|---
Earphone Solutions | 25% off | Store Wide use code "CYBER" -- they offer discounts for trade-ins as well.
Master & Dynamic | 20% off | use code "MD20"
Meze | 25% off select headphones
NeedleDoctor | Various |
Monoprice | 20% off | Use code "BF2016"
Audeze | B-Stock| Dedicated thread here. Thanks /u/kangaroo_steak!
V-Moda| 10% | Free Boompro Mic with order of on-ear/over-ear headphones.
Brainwavz | Various | Thanks /u/robotlabs!
Addicted to Audio | Various | "For the aussies" thanks /u/KingJie!
Shenzhen Audio | Various |
Decware | Various | thanks /u/Elnrik!
HeadAmp | Various | Use code "HEADFI10" for 10% off (most?) products
Brainwavz Canada | Various | Thanks /u/custardbun!
Violectric Audio USA | 25% | Code "BLACK-25" thanks /u/novicez!

If it helps make you more uncomfortable, you can get a 200GB card of the same size for $100 on Amazon right now.

Some of the kits on Amazon are great, specifically the ones by CanaKit. They usually come with everything needed to get started (Pi, power adapter, sdcard, case, etc.) Some kits have more items than others.

As for which Pi, there are only really two options: the Pi 3 or the Pi Zero W. The other models are older and slower or lacking wifi/Bluetooth/etc. The Pi3 is more powerful and requires less adapters to make it plug into your TV, use USB devices, etc. The Pi Zero W requires some adapters and isn't as powerful but it is cheaper and a lot smaller so it is great for projects where you want it as small as possible. Both are great.

Overall, I'd recommend a Pi 3. More powerful, less messing with adapters, and still pretty small. This kit covers all the bases: CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 Complete Starter Kit - 32 GB Edition: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/

Pi 3, case, power, SD card, HDMI cable, SD reader, and heatsinks.

Edit: Here is a similar kit for the Pi Zero W if you want to go the smaller/cheaper route: CanaKit Raspberry Pi Zero W (Wireless) Starter Kit with Official Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XJQV162/

The SD card isn't as large and you don't get a card reader but you do get the needed HDMI and USB adapters.

Hope it helps!

Two points:

1. Over $50 tends to be a scam: actually, Shure buds like these are well worth the money.
   
   
2. I always buy these Sony earbuds. No earbuds will ever be buy-it-for-life, because you're bound to get loss of sound in one ear sooner or later. These Sony buds are super cheap, provide decent audio (not audiophile quality but you will not get that for less than $50 anyway), and last for at least a year in my experience. I've been using them for 10+ years and they are still good.
   
   P.S. If you ARE looking for audiophile-grade earbuds, go over to headroom and see what your options are.
   
   P.P.S. If you're okay with full-size headphones too, the Sennheiser HD595's are hands down the best headphones I have heard.

Warning, big ass list of stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-RM1000x-Modular-Certified-warranty/dp/B015YEI7LK for $130

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-RM750i-Modular-Certified-warranty/dp/B00YPNSQTU for $100

https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Gaming-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST4000DX001/dp/B00FQH7MQ2 for $117

https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-Single-PC3L-12800-SODIMM-204-Pin/dp/B006YG8X9Y $20.79

https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-SODIMM-Memory-System-CT2K8G3S160BM/dp/B008LTBJFW $42.79

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Obsidian-750D-Performance-Tower/dp/B00EB6O4N8 $99.99

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Trackball-Computer-Mouse/dp/B0043T7FXE $20

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE $34

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Gaming-SCIMITAR-Mechanical-Buttons/dp/B019OQJ9XE $60

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Performance-Mouse-Mac/dp/B002HWRJBM $45

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Surround-Theater-External-Speakers/dp/B004M18O60/ $250

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Hyperion-Gaming-Fusion-910-004069/dp/B00LZVNWIA $30

https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset-PS4/dp/B00Y09G6H8 $75

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Surround-Hybrid-Headset-Adapter/dp/B01B1H33WW $60

https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PC-350-Special-2015/dp/B015ZKJIYI $90

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Touchpad-Internet-Connected/dp/B014EUQOGK $18

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U28E590D-28-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor/dp/B00YD3DBOC $300

https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-Portable-External-GP65NB60/dp/B00ODDE33U $20

https://www.amazon.com/Ballistix-PC3-12800-240-Pin-Memory-BLS4KIT8G3D1609DS1S00/dp/B007HAXMGA $96

https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-16GBx2-PC4-17000-SODIMM-260-Pin/dp/B015YPB8ME $96

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Dominator-Platinum-3200MHz-PC4-25600/dp/B018GK2G9S $96

https://www.amazon.com/Ballistix-Sport-8GBx2-PC4-19200-288-Pin/dp/B01AG9EZ3M $55 (must-have for a white-themed build)

https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-DOMINATOR-Platinum-3000MHz-Systems/dp/B016BWENUI/ $194

https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-JetFlash-Flash-Drive-TS32GJF790K/dp/B00JKATVUQ $7.50 (32GB)

https://www.amazon.com/PNY-Elite-32GB-Flash-Drive/dp/B01E17L6AK/ $8.50

https://www.amazon.com/PNY-Turbo-Elite-Flash-Drive/dp/B01DWN1CMG/ $12 (64GB)

https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-MicroSDHC-Memory-Adapter-TS32GUSDU1PE/dp/B015J44R0U $7 (32GB)

https://www.amazon.com/PNY-MicroSDXC-Adapter--UHS-I-P-SDU64U185EL-GE/dp/B01G26R7M4 $14 (64GB)

https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-MicroSDXC-Memory-Adapter-TS64GUSDU1PE/dp/B016B6AMFY $14 (64GB)

If you want your stuff to last a long time and be more reliable, get dedicated devices rather than combined ones. A "wireless router" is actually three devices combined into one: router, switch, and access point. The router separates your network from the internet, moves data between them, allows multiple devices to share your single public IP address, blocks unwanted internet traffic from reaching your network, and assigns local IP addresses to devices on your network. The access point does Wi-Fi. The switch connects these together and gives you the multiple LAN Ethernet ports on the back.

These three devices are also available separately. For example, this is a router, this is a switch, and this is an access point. You'd connect the router's WAN port to the modem and the LAN port to the switch, then connect access points and other wired devices to the switch. This has several advantages:

• The devices are much more reliable as each only does one job, rather than having to juggle three different ones.
  
• It's easily expandable. If you need more Ethernet ports somewhere, just add another switch there and connect it to an existing switch. If you need more Wi-Fi coverage somewhere, add another access point there and connect it to an existing switch.
  
• Upgrading is less wasteful. If, for example, a new Wi-Fi standard comes out, just get new access points that support it. You can keep your existing router and switch(es). Likewise, if you upgrade your connection speed to something your router can't handle, just upgrade it and keep your switch(es) and access point(s). And if something breaks, you can just replace it and keep everything else.
  
• You can optimize the locations of devices. Your router and switch(es) can be put well out of the way, behind other stuff, where their cables will be out of sight. Your access point(s) can be ceiling mounted to provide the best Wi-Fi coverage, with only one Ethernet cable running to them. This cable also powers the AP using Power over Ethernet.

Not likely related to the update since you can't format it on PC either. FWIW, pny and kingston are the only two brands of flash memory I've ever had fail on me.

Stick with Sandisk or Samsung.

Nope. Because I'm bored:

Thing | Cost | Link
---|---|----
27" 5K Monitor (though IMO the difference between 4K and 5K is marginal and not worth the extra grand) | $1489 | https://www.amazon.com/LG-27MD5KB-B-UltraFine-Brightness-Thunderbolt-x/dp/B0778Z8G5K
1TB SSD | $162.99 | https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Inch-Internal-MZ-76E1T0B-AM/dp/B078DPCY3T
Intel Xeon W (note: faster than Mac's) | $1189 | https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6ZP7AC0245
Motherboard | $293 | https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132991
32GB RAM | $245 | https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16820231967
PSU | $104 | https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2F86WV9693
Vega 56 | $410 | https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814930006
Pretty Case | $189 | https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133359

Total Cost: $4,082

Edit: forgot Vega 56

Das keyboards get some flak for being overpriced, but at $60 this is a pretty good deal. Now that they have apparently sold out, see below for some alternatives.

EDIT: if you search for Das on /r/mechanicalkeyboards you'll find lots of people talking about how Das keyboards have declined in quality recently and some controversy about the software for one of their new models (not this KB) being Windows only. The keycaps Das uses are also said to be low quality. These issues aside, I personally think this is a good deal. If you are in the market for a full size mechanical keyboard, it's hard to find a better keyboard for the price. Some alternatives that are better but more expensive:

• $80: iKBC CD108 w/ MX Clear Switches
  
• $90 for full-size, $80 for tenkeyless: Cooler Master MasterKeys S
  
• $40, but 60% layout not full-sized: Magicforce68
  
  EDIT 2: as /u/SolixTanaka pointed out below, the Magicforce keyboards have questionable quality control. It's probably not fair to say they are better than Das keyboards. Some users love them and have no problems, others find their board crapping out after a few months (or sooner). Buyer beware. I like them because they are a cheap way to try out a 60% layout if that's something that interests you but you're unsure if you'll like it.

I'm putting this here because I don't want to flood the main sub with what I'm able to find. So here goes:

Headphones| Price
:--|:--
[ATH-M50x Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR86/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757226&sr=1-1&keywords=headphones) |$150 in cart. $250-$300 everywhere else I check
[Sennhieser HD 598 SR Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Sennheiser-HD-598-SR-Open-Back/dp/B06WRMZZ45/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757356&sr=1-1&keywords=hd+598) |$109 Record low
[Audio-Technica ATH-M40x Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499758834&sr=1-6&keywords=bose) |$180 - $38 = $141
[August EP650-Bluetooth headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/August-EP650-Bluetooth-Wireless-Headphones-Leather/dp/B00F54Y6GU/ref=sr_1_2?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499759484&sr=1-2&keywords=headphones)| Was $99, now $58
[August EP640 Bluetooth Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/August-EP640-Rechargeable-built-Smartphones/dp/B00MHOFR78/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499772544) |was $80, now $37
[Prime Day Bluedio T2S Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Bluedio-Shooting-Bluetooth-headphones-wireless/dp/B00Q2VIW9M/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499759635&sr=1-4&keywords=bluetooth) | Was $20, $21 in cart no tax
Prime Day Bluedio V Headphones | was $200, $140 in cart no tax
[AUSDOM ANC 7 Bluetooth noise cancelling] (https://www.amazon.ca/Cancelling-Headphones-AUSDOM-Bluetooth-Comfortable/dp/B01LZ7Q5R1/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499808109&sr=1-4&keywords=aptx) | was $100, now $50. Well reviewed!
[Sony Extra bass bluetooth headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Sony-MDRXB950B1-Extra-Headphone-Model/dp/B01N5UVZBP) | was $200, now $99


Earbuds| Price
:--|:--
[Aukey Arcs Bluetooth Sport] (https://www.amazon.ca/AUKEY-Bluetooth-Headphones-Microphone-Sweatproof/dp/B01EWUP4NQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499804815&sr=1-4&keywords=headphones)| was $24, now $14
[1MORE Triple Driver earbuds] (https://www.amazon.ca/1MORE-Headphones-Earphones-Compatible-Microphone/dp/B01KB9K9Z0/ref=lp_17037466011_1_4?srs=17037466011&ie=UTF8&qid=1499766067&sr=8-4&th=1) | Was $131, $106 in cart

Bluetooth misc| Price
:--|:--
[Anker Premium Stereo Bluetooth 4.0 Speaker ] (https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-Bluetooth-Subwoofers-Portable-Wireless/dp/B0107WH8Q4/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499800448&sr=1-6&keywords=subwoofer) | was $130, now $60
[Trond bluetooth receiver] (https://www.amazon.ca/TROND-Bluetooth-Receiver-Headphones-Speakers/dp/B01M9I0LSK/) | Was $25, now $20. I have one its awesome
[Altman Bluetooth Transmitter/receiver] (https://www.amazon.ca/ALTMAN-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Wireless/dp/B06Y25PGBG/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499803431&sr=1-1&keywords=aptx) |was $43, now $26



CPU Coolers| Price
:--|:--
[CORSAIR Hydro Series H100i v2 Extreme ] (https://www.amazon.ca/CORSAIR-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-CW-9060025-WW/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757440&sr=1-1&keywords=corsair) |$110. Historic [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/CrDzK8/corsair-cpu-cooler-cw9060025ww)
[Corsair Hydro Series H115i Extreme Performance] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-CW-9060027-WW/dp/B019955RNQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499756838&sr=1-3&keywords=corsair) |$155 (temporarily out of stock)
[MasterLiquid Pro 240 All-In-One] (https://www.amazon.ca/MasterLiquid-Technology-Chamber-MasterFan-Radiator/dp/B01E5XNP5Y/ref=lp_16927652011_1_24?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499766384&sr=1-24) | was $140, now $95 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sqmxFT/cooler-master-cpu-cooler-mlyd24ma20mbr1)

PSU| Price
:--|:--
[Corsair CS650M] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Modular-Efficient-Supply-CS650M/dp/B00GH9NA2I/ref=sr_1_11?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757999&sr=1-11&keywords=corsair) |$110. Not the lowest but okay
[EVGA SuperNOVA 550 G3] (https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0550-Y1/dp/B01LWTS2UL/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499759891&sr=1-1&keywords=evga)| Was $130, now $99 [historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sMM323/evga-supernova-g3-550w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-220-g3-0550)

Cases| Price
:--|:--
[Corsair 780T full atx case] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Graphite-780T-Full-Tower/dp/B00LA6POK4) | $189 in cart. Not an [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sNJwrH/corsair-case-cc9011063ww) but not bad
[Corsair Carbide 400C white] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-CC-9011095-WW-Carbide-Compact-Mid-Tower/dp/B01F97W9ZM/ref=sr_1_12?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499813131&sr=1-12&keywords=corsair) |$105 in cart

HDD| Price
:--|:--
[Seagate Backup Plus Hub 8TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-External-Desktop-Storage-STEL8000100/dp/B01HD6ZLQ6/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499758359&sr=1-3&keywords=hdd) | $270 - 51 = $219
[Seagate 4TB BarraCuda Pro ] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST4000DM006/dp/B01MSW4MNS/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499758359&sr=1-4&keywords=hdd)|$245-75 = $170 [Historic low!] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/qRtWGX/seagate-barracuda-pro-4tb-35-7200rpm-internal-hard-drive-st4000dm006)
[Seagate Backup Plus 4TB Portable] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0196J43TE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1) | Was $160, now $135 [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/NyQRsY/seagate-backup-plus-4tb-external-hard-drive-stdr4000100)
[Seagate Firecuda 2TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M1NHCZT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)| was $126, now $85 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/zk7CmG/seagate-firecuda-2tb-25-5400rpm-internal-hard-drive-st2000lx001)
[Seagate Firecuda 1TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-Firecuda-2-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000LX015/dp/B01LWRTRZU/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499767750&sr=1-1&keywords=ssd) | was $83, now $60 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/w6x9TW/seagate-firecuda-1tb-25-5400rpm-hybrid-internal-hard-drive-st1000lx015)

Input Devices| Price
:--|:--
[Logitech G13 input pad] (https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE/ref=sr_1_21?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499761901&sr=1-21&keywords=board+games) | Was $75, now $55 [Historic Low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/jbvZxr/logitech-keyboard-920000946)
[Corsair Gaming K70 LUX RGB MX Brown] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlit/dp/B01ER4B7YM/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499770080&) | was $180, now $160 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/34M323/corsair-k70-lux-rgb-wired-gaming-keyboard-ch-9101012-na)


Networking| Price
:--|:--
[NETGEAR Nighthawk X8 AC5300 Router] (https://www.amazon.ca/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Tri-Band-Quad-Stream-R8500-100CNS/dp/B01A85Y9TE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499760240&sr=8-1&keywords=NETGEAR+Nighthawk+X8+AC5300)| was $499, now $290
[TP-Link AC3200 Tri band router] (https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Tri-Band-Beamforming-Archer-C3200/dp/B00YY3XSSA/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499760450&sr=1-3&keywords=modem) | Was $249, now $175
[Netgear 16-Port Gigabit Switch] (https://www.amazon.ca/Netgear-16-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B01AX8XHRQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499760948&sr=1-6&keywords=ethernet) | Was $106, now $75 in cart

MISC| Price
:--|:--
[Logitech C922x Webcam] (https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-Stream-Webcam-Streaming-960-001176/dp/B01LXCDPPK/ref=sr_1_5?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499760799&sr=1-5&keywords=computer) | was $130, now $89. All time low
[Acer KG251Q 1080p Freesync monitor] (https://www.amazon.ca/Acer-KG251Q-bmiix-FREESYNC-Technology/dp/B06X6HJ1SF/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499762804&sr=1-6&keywords=monitor) | Was $230, now $170
[M9S PRO android tv box] (https://www.amazon.ca/Leelbox-M9S-Pro-Android-6-0/dp/B01MD0NZPK/ref=sr_1_2?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499767387) | Was $130, $98 in cart
[Cyberpower 600w UPS] (https://www.amazon.ca/CyberPower-CP1000PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N192/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499803529&sr=1-1&keywords=ups) | was $224, now $125


I'll try to keep tabs on everything but let me know if there are any errors or price updates. And as a side note, I'm actually getting downvotes for this? I can't see how there could possibly be a sane explanation for that.

 

EDIT: Updated 7:00pm EST!! Let me know if there's anything you see and I'll put it in here!

 

EDIT: I've put everything new as of Jan 11, 4:00pm in bold. Also, check this post on RedFlagDeals for a great big list of deal

 

EDIT: Its all over everyhone. Hope you snagged something cool beyond bitter disappointment this year!**


 

Not a huge deal 128gb for $20

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=psdc_3015433011_t1_B06XWZWYVP

edit:added link

A Logitech G13 or Razer Tartaurus might meet your needs. Or if you're cheap a USB numpad and using something like sharpkeys or autohotkey to rebind your numpad would probably work.

Full offer rules here. As OP mentioned, it can't be applied to video games.

I just used it to bring the SanDisk Ultra 200GB microSD down to $61.32, effectively giving you 72GB more for $21 over the usual $40/128GB options.

https://www.amazon.com/Rexing-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=sr_1_6?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1541949825&sr=1-6&keywords=dash+cam

Rexing V1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sGtDzbK9MTK2Q

Or if you want a cheaper option:
Pruveeo F5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KZWMGFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZHtDzbCFSER78


And just youtube how to hide the wires

He makes a good point. 15 plays is quite an exaggeration, but if you listen to the same album once a week for a year, it will be noticeably less crisp/good sounding

If you do want to use it, you can easily find lots of cool random jazz/swing music at tag sales and record stores (or whatever sort of music you want). Tag sales are dirt cheap but usually poor selection, record stores are pricey but have just about anything you want.

and If you are interested in a less beautiful, but high-quality record player, I have this one and love it: http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT-LP120-USB-Direct-Drive-Professional-Turntable/dp/B002S1CJ2Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1380686694&sr=1-1&keywords=Audio-Technica+AT-PL120

(Note: Shop around... I got it for 50 bucks less than that)

I have a Rexing Dash Cam and I like it a lot. You just run a cable from the cam to an aux port in your car and it does everything else for you. It records on a loop, so if nothing is saved from previous driving time, it goes back and deletes that data so you don't have to worry about your SD card getting filled up. Just turn your car on and you're set.

I remember someone announcing it, but I couldn't find a consumer version for sale. Do you know who it was or have a link? I did find 200GB MicroSD cards, those are readily available via Amazon.

You can already buy them stupid cheap. I have two SanDisk 256GB cards I got for $33 each. One is in my Switch. The other is in a drawer until I figure out what to use it for. Maybe my PSP.

Amazon had the 400GB card on sale the other day for $46

The 512GB card was on sale yesterday for $57.

Anything small, 8GB, 16GB, 32GB, 64GB can be had for like $16 or less.

128GB for like $25

—

400GB - $57

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074RNRM2B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9we3Cb75R3QBB

256GB - $38

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0758NHWS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nwe3CbRK04R5Q

200GB - $33

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JY5T7T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.ye3CbS3CT6AH

128GB - $20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Mxe3CbAWACBJR

64GB - $12

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JYVKNX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9ze3CbBCX3549

32GB - $7

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JWXGNT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AAe3CbBV81WFY

16GB - $6

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073K14CVB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1Ae3CbG0JXK3K

Not sure how much cheaper you expect them to get.

In this scene, this is supposed to be a wireless ID scanner. Though obviously someone just wanted something that "looked techy" and could display a custom message.

I'm very sorry for the picture of a TV (or can it be considered meta?)

Get your own here:
Logitech G13 Programmable Gameboard with LCD Display https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NEK2GE

You're thinking exactly correctly. That's one of the reasons why Nikon has a (relatively) cheap 35mm f/1.8 prime for DX.

Remember 200 GB cards are only $70

Rexing V1 Car Dash Cam 2.4" LCD FHD 1080p 170 Degree Wide Angle Dashboard Camera Recorder with Sony Exmor Video Sensor, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OZ39AbBF7VJC5

You can get a comparable SanDisk for $42 without a one to two month wait.

https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Ultra-128GB-Micro-Adapter/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

It's not really that big of a steal. Normal price is 49.99$ for the NEWER model...and it's on sale for 40-45$ on Amazon.

I recommend the Canakit.

https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY

For $70 everything is included. I put an RPie together last Christmas and instead of relying on the wife and family to find the parts as gifts, I just sent them to that link. Super easy, and it's been running non-stop all day since then.

For $3 more you can get twice as much storage

​

Or $6 less for the same amount of storage

nobody has explained their recommendations.

you don't get good volume on dialog because of crappy channel mixing from your TV.

that's not a dig on your specific TV... all TV's suck at this. in fact, most receivers suck at mixing down from 5.1/7.1 to stereo.

for any content generated in surround, something like 95% of the dialog volume is mixed to the center channel.

if you're listening on a pair of stereo speakers, you get to hear what the TV thinks is best, in terms of balancing the volumes between the channels.

folks here are recommending receivers that would give you 5.1 channel audio, and then also suggesting three speakers.

the three speakers are your Front L+R, and the all important center speaker.

receivers do a moderately good job of mixing all the surround channels to just the Front L+Rs, and if you have the center speaker, it will still get all of that delicious dialog.

your budget is a little tight, but doable.

https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/yamrxv379bl/yamaha-rx-v379-5.1-ch-x-70-watts-bluetooth-a/v-receiver/1.html $150

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009IUIV4A/ $60 for your front L+R pair

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HH2GINM/ $50 for your center channel

-

check out your sound settings for anything called "normalization" or "equalization".

this will cap the maximum volume difference between the audio channels. so in effect it will reduce the loud parts, and bring up the volume on the quiet parts. this may be sufficient for you to like what you hear, or be sufficient for you to just get some nicer speakers and be quite satisfied.

if the "equalization" setting fixes the quiet/loud problem, but you just want more oomph, i would recommend

eris 4.5's https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GP56OYA/ $180

or

fluance ai40's https://www.amazon.com/Fluance-Bookshelf-Amplifier-Turntable-Bluetooth/dp/B07CLDGXX1/ $200

both are self-powered, and need nothing other than a cable to connect them to your Tv.

i have eris e3.5's and they are simply great.

i have fluance floor speakers, and they're also great, so i would expect good performance on the ai40's.

ai40's come with more features - a bluetooth input option, and a remote to control the volume, source.

https://www.amazon.com/TEAMWOLF-Water-Resistant-Mechanical-Keyboard-Equipped/dp/B01MTUDZS8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494265708&sr=8-1&keywords=teamwolf

Blue Switches, I have it and love it.

Brown switches:

https://www.amazon.com/Velocifire-Tenkeyless-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches/dp/B01MS8YTYX/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494265632&sr=8-1&keywords=brown+switches

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E8KO2B0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1494265632&sr=8-5&keywords=brown+switches

Did you not actually go to the site? It lists specifically what the money goes to, and says the total is around the same price you mentioned. There's no monitors, but there's about another $100 in shipping / taxes / handling.

The final ≈$100 is listed as "Suggested donation to help DonorsChoose.org reach more classrooms." If you hover over the "?", it lets you know this is optional.

>Most kits are $50-$70 x 5 is still only $350.

From the site:

>CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 Complete Starter Kit - 32 GB Edition: $74.99 x 5 = $374.95

They also have 5 "learner labs":

>OSOYOO Raspberry Pi 3 DIY Starter learning Lab Kit (22 in 1) For Beginners: $29.99 x 5 = $149.95

That brings the total to $524.90, lower than your estimate. They then add about $90 of other fees on. The rest is a suggested donation.

>Also the prices for the CanaKits and OSOYOO DIY Kits don't match up either.

Yes, they do:
https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY
https://www.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Raspberry-Starter-learning-Beginners/dp/B01ICNY0FW

>The goal is rather specific to not offer specifics that they want.

How much more specific can they get? They even separated each type of fee.

SanDisk Ultra microSDXC UHS-I cards

• 64gb - $14.99
  
  
• 128gb - $29.99
  
  
• 200gb - $49.99 (choose Amazon as the seller. Out of stock, but you can still order, and it will ship when restocked).

I've got this one - https://www.amazon.com/V1-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE - No complaints so far. It's already paid for itself many times over, as the repairs from this one accident are shaping up to be around $5,000 and we'd still be trying to get it out of the insurance company if we didn't have that video proof.

You can get a 200GB for 66$ https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-SDSDQUAN-200G-G4A/dp/B00V62XBQQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484492789&sr=8-3&keywords=micro+sdxc

I reckon the 200GB SanDisk Ultra is more dense.

Rather than click the link and give them affiliate money (thanks for the spam!) just go to this link, affiliate spam free:

http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-SDSDQUAN-200G-G4A/dp/B00V62XBQQ/

This ain't it chief...

Was <$100 a few days ago HERE...$100 or less for 1TB or no deal -- at this price, might as well go for the Evo 860 or MX500 🤔

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q57S62/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apis_1485026011231

I got this and a Type-C cable to use with my portable battery.

Yes, it matches the lowest price this card has ever been on Amazon.

If you're interested the 1TB is only the cost of 2 of these + $7 on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=psdc_1292116011_t1_B07D998212?th=1

I've started to get into electronics myself, and I can say that soldering is easy, but you need the right tools for the job.
You'll need an adjustable temperature soldering iron and 1/2 milimeter iron/lead solder as the bare minimum.

I suggest grabbing some tip tinner, solder wick & vacuum, and some cheap boards to practice soldering.

This video shows how to do the actual soldering, while this video covers the tools you'll need and explains their use. These videos are made by EEV Blog and explain soldering in GREAT detail, which is how I learned to do it.



As far as making actual circuits, you have to have an idea AND parts to fulfill your idea. The Arduino UNO is a great way to program and test circuits. It's essentially a small comptuer designed to repeat whatver task you give it over and over. Alternatively, there's the Raspberry Pi, which comes in a few different models. The difference between the Pi and the Arduino is that the Pi is essentially a mini computer. You can literally hook it up to a monitor via hdmi and slam an operating system into it.

Both boards typically come in kits like this one for the Ardunio, or this one for the Raspberry Pi. The Ardunio kits with come with a lot of peripherals, like sensors and LEDs that actually do things, while you'll have to invest more with a Raspberry Pi. These kits come with detailed instructions, code you can copy and paste, and are a great way to learn how circuitry works, and is exactly what I'm doing right now. I'm no expert by any stretch of the imagination, I've just done a decent amount of research to find out what's what.

There are two ways to hook up circuits - temporarily and (somewhat) permanently. Breadboards are used to prototype circuits without having to solder anything, typically using these wires to link different parts of the circuits together. Soldering components to those green boards I linked earlier is what you'd do when you have your circuit up and running and want to move it to something more permanent. I say "more" permanent because you can usually de-solder stuff if you needed a component for something.

Adafruit has a decently sized library of projects you can try. They often sell stuff in kits where you get everything you need to make something -- for example, this DIY MIDI controller.

Sparkfun has a great series of articles that explain the very basics of circuits and electricity

Hopefully I've explained everything enough so that you can venture off on your own. Feel free to ask questions!

That is exactly what got me here... can someone confirm this as a decent option? For now I just want to do older sims up to SNES, I realize I would probably need an upgrade for PSX/N64/Wii.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C6Q2GSY/

How about a good controller option?
https://www.amazon.com/iNNEXT-Nintendo-Controller-Raspberry-Windows/dp/B01MYUDDCV/

I'm updating as I go. Give me a second guys. Difference in savings is based on camelcamelcamel.com average on an item & sorry the links are all Smile links since I have Smile Always enabled.

Edit: Just caught a CP 870 Snorlax.

RAM | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Corsair Dominator Platinum Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3200MHz | $95.99 | Link | $41.01 | n/a
CORSAIR DOMINATOR Platinum Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz | $193.99 | Link | $85 | n/a
Crucial 32GB Kit (16GBx2) DDR4 2133 MT/s (PC4-17000) SODIMM 260-Pin Memory | $95.99 | Link | $40.69 | n/a
Ballistix Sport 32GB Kit (8GBx4) DDR3 1600 MT/s (PC3-12800) CL9 @1.5V UDIMM 240-Pin Memory | $95.87 | Link | $44.14 | n/a
Crucial 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR3L 1600 SODIMM Memory for Mac System | $42.79 | Link | $16.54 | n/a
Crucial 8GB Single DDR3L 1600 MT/s (PC3L-12800) SODIMM 204-Pin Memory | $20.79 | Link | $9.70 | n/a



Monitors | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Samsung U28E590D 28-Inch UHD LED-Lit Monitor | $441.85 | Link | $4.84 | n/a

PSU | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Corsair RMx Series, RM1000x, 1000W, Fully Modular Power Supply, 80+ Gold Certified, 10 year warranty | $129.99 | Link | $35.57 | n/a
Corsair RMi Series, RM750i, 750 Watt (750W), Fully Modular Power Supply, 80+ Gold Certified, 10 year warranty | $99.99 | Link | $20.23 | n/a

HDD | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Seagate 4TB Gaming SSHD(Solid State Hybrid Drive) SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive | $116.99 | Link | $26.84 | n/a

Headsets | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
HyperX Cloud II Gaming Headset | $85.10 | Link | $7 | n/a
Sennheiser PC 350 Special Edition 2015 | $89.99 | Link | $65.53 | n/a
Corsair VOID Surround Hybrid Stereo Gaming Headset with Dolby 7.1 | $59.99 | Link | $14.12 | n/a

Case | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Corsair Obsidian Series 750D Performance Full Tower Case | $99.99 | Link | $46.79 | n/a

Keyboards | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Logitech G13 Programmable Gameboard with LCD Display | $38.99 | Link | $20.56 | n/a
Logitech Wireless Touch Keyboard K400 Plus | $31.73 | Link | -$1.84 (lol) | I already own this. AMA?

Mice | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Logitech M570 Wireless Trackball | $19.99 | Link | $10.69 | n/a
Logitech Wireless Performance Mouse MX | $66.02 | Link | -$4.62 | n/a
Corsair Gaming SCIMITAR RGB MOBA/MMO Gaming Mouse | $59.99 | Link | $14 | n/a
Logitech G402 Hyperion Fury FPS Gaming Mouse | $43.00 | Link | $3.04 | n/a

Flash Memory | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Transcend 32GB JetFlash 790 USB 3.0 Flash Drive | $7.49 | Link | $4.40 | n/a
PNY Elite X 32GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive | $8.49 | Link | ~$5 | n/a
PNY Turbo Elite 64GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive | $11.99 | Link | $3 | n/a
Transcend 32GB MicroSDHC Class 10 UHS-1 Memory Card with Adapter | $6.99 | Link | $13.61 | n/a
PNY Elite 64GB MicroSDXC Card with Adapter | $13.99 | Link | $3 | n/a
Transcend 64GB MicroSDXC Class 10 UHS-1 Memory Card with Adapter | $13.99 | Link | $16.63 | n/a
Temp (Title) | Temp (Price) | Temp (link) | Temp (Savings) | n/a

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E3W1726/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here you can get the 250g on Amazon for $109 compared to Neweggs $149. You still get the game free with this deal also. Picked this up yesterday and just gotta wait for the email code

To be honest it's far too high of a price. I bought this one: Sandisk 200GB MicroSDXC for just $50 about 1.5 months ago. Granted it's now at $77 on Amazon (though cheaper from other sellers, but be careful about counterfeits).

Still, at $77 you get a much better value instead of paying $50 for another 56GB. If you wait for it to go back down in price you can fetch it for $40-$50 which is much more reasonable (1/3 to 1/4 the price).

No problems on my end with the SanDisk :D

Edit: Updating price.

I'd suggest a pair of open-backed headphones since I've found that those headphones tend to have better soundstaging to help me pinpoint where people are.

I found closed headphones tend to have more "immersive" sound with more bass, but if you're looking for something for purely competitive performance I think an open-backed pair would do you well. There's some generalizing going on here, but in general I personally feel open-backed headphones are better for gaming.

Here's a couple suggestions around your price-point - disclaimer that I haven't actually owned any of these (except for the original AD700 which I can vouch for being great for gaming), and it's merely meant to serve as a starting point for cans to check out. Filter the reviews and find the ones where people mention the words "gaming" or "soundstage".

• Audio Technica ATH-AD700X
  
  
• Sennheiser HD 558
  
  
• Philips SHP9500
  
  
• Grado SR80e
  
  
  I personally use the Sennheiser HD 600 which are open-backed but these are out of your $100 budget.
  

microSD Card|Price|Cost per GB|
:--|:-:|:-:|
Sandisk Ultra 64GB|$15.99 (36% Off)|$0.25/GB|
Sandisk Ultra 128GB|$26.98 (21% Off)|$0.21/GB|
Sandisk Ultra 200GB|$34.99 (40% Off)|$0.175/GB|
Sandisk Ultra 256GB|$51.99 (65% Off)|$0.20/GB|
Sandisk Ultra 400GB|$99.99 (60% Off)|$0.25/GB|

Except for the 64GB and 400GB these are Black Friday level cost/GB. The 400GB deal is still great, being the largest and newest on the market.

The Switch only supports UHS-1 cards, which have a 104MB/s max read speed. SanDisk Ultra cards are listed as being up to 100MB/s. The load time of a digital Switch game hardly changes between slow and fast read times. Eurogamer found a 0.3 second load time difference between a 30MB/s card and a 90MB/s card. For most users you want to consider capacity (how much do you need) and value (cost per GB), not speed.

Hardware

• Keyboard: MagicForce
  
• Monitor: 23" ASUS
  
• Lamp: FORSÅ from IKEA
  
  

  Software
  

  
  

• Wallpaper: Here (The wallpaper I wal'd for the color scheme)
  
• WM: GNOME
  
• Terminal: urxvt
  
• Font: Roboto Mono (I think)
  
• Audio Visualizer: Cava
  
• Pipes.sh Command: pipes.sh -p 5 -R

I’m so glad you asked this question before buying. First of all, no question is silly. The daily question thread is exactly for these types of quick answer questions.

Do not buy the Nintendo official SD cards. They’re way way overpriced. I’d buy either a Sandisk or Samsung 128gb Micro SD card ($40), as that size give you best bang for the buck. I’ll link a couple below. If you want something smaller or bigger, just let me know.

I’m one of the mods here, so welcome to the subreddit!

Samsung 128gb

Sandisk 128gb

Same price on Amazon

Here is mine: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X528FNE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I say 100 bucks will get you well made tech.

Samsung evo is a better sd card and goes for the same price pretty much 100% of the time https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XWZWYVP/

Don't buy SD cards in physical retail locations like bestbuy. Their "deals" are just them marking the price down to the actual online price when most of the time they are marked way up. When they do go on sale for real you'll see them for like $25-$40 on Amazon.

EDIT Here's the Sandisk one https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDXC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-128G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q57S62 for the same price on Amazon. No mention of a sale while bestbuy is claiming $118 off. Just bestbuy fuckary going on there. Samsung one I linked is still better as it's rated 30MB/s minimum while the sandisk is 10MB/s minimum.

If you're looking on the budget end, these keyboards will all be on sale tomorrow:

• Velocifire VM01 Mechanical Gaming Keyboard with Outemu Brown Switches 104 Keys LED Illuminated Backlit Anti-ghosting Keys (Black)
  
• MechanicalEagle Z-77 Multicolor Backlit 87 Keys Mechanical Gaming Keyboard with Blue Switches DIY Replaceable Switches - Black
  
• Mechanical Keyboard Gaming Keyboard Brown Switch 68-Keys Mini Design (60%) Gaming Wired Keyboard White Silver Magicforce by Qisan
  
• EagleTec KG010 Gaming / Industrial / Office Mechanical Keyboard With LED Backlit 104 Key (Black)
  
  The first 2 are pretty regularly posted on this sub. The 3rd is highly recommended on /r/MechanicalKeyboards as a good budget board (though the more expensive Gateron keys are preferred). I'm not familiar with the 4th, but it looks like it could be the same as a MechanicalEagle with a different badge.
  
  Here is a link that finds all of those keyboards except the Qisan (#3), which is filed under "Electronics" and "Video Games > Accessories" rather than "Computers & Accessories". It should also keep populating in case more keyboards show up, since deals are only posted 24 hours in advance. You should be able to change the price range, but I don't remember seeing any mechanical keyboards for $50+. You can also "Watch" the deals from that link so you are notified when they go live.
  
  Hope this helps, and good luck finding a board!

Guarantee it? Easy! Build something better:

• 1x: https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY
  
  
• 2x: https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Bluetooth-Controller-Classic-Joystick-Android/dp/B014QP2H1E
  
  
• Spend an hour setting up https://retropie.org.uk/
  
  Congratulations! You now have a:
  
  
• Atari 2600 (RetroArch)
  
• Game Boy Advance (gpSP)
  
• Game Boy Color (RetroArch)
  
• Game Gear (Osmose)
  
• Intellivision (RetroArch)
  
• NeoGeo (Genesis-GX, RetroArch)
  
• Sega Master System (Osmose)
  
• Sega Megadrive (DGEN, Picodrive)
  
• Nintendo Entertainment System (RetroArch)
  
• N64 (Mupen64Plus-RPi)
  
• Playstation 1 (RetroArch)
  
• Super Nintendo Entertainment System (RetroArch, PiSNES, SNES-Rpi)
  
• and more!
  
  That is ~2.5 inches wide, ~3.5 inches long and ~1 inch high.
  
  
  Otherwise, get in line at a Best Buy about a month in advance.

Game Pad Keyboard

Red Swing Line Stapler There's a newer version as well.

Cleaning Cloth for monitors and glasses

Speakers Get any kind really. This is what I have and they are good for the money.

Timer - for when you tell your SO you will do something or to remember the roast in the oven.

Extra Monitor. Already have one? Add another!

Still have money left over? Try these sites:

Think Geek

Dude I Want That

Like u/Jack_Bohlen said - the documentation is really good and you should be able to find answers to most of your questions. Being able to read and follow instructions carefully is important, especially if you get into doing anything from the command line.

If you can follow directions, you should have very few problems going from a box full of components to a basic working system in a short time.

Here are the instructions I gave a friend recently:

• Buy this - https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY
  
• Buy whatever USB controllers you prefer or use a PS3/4 controller if you have them
  
• Download RetroPie, follow instructions to put that on the SD. https://github.com/retropie/retropie-setup/wiki/First-Installation#installation
  
• Put SD in Pi.
  
• Plug it in.
  
• Follow instructions here to copy ROMs over - https://github.com/retropie/retropie-setup/wiki/Transferring-Roms
  
  Oh, and I guess you want to have a USB keyboard handy just in case. But it is a really easy process to get started.

Yup. That still doesn't discount that you are comparing a sales price to an MSRP. Factually, the 860 EVO didn't even last a month at MSRP before it was discounted 12% on amazon.com. Why would this be any different?

List:

• ZTE F609 - GPON ONT from ISP, bridge mode and connected to pfsense.
  
  
• Mikrotik CSS326-24G-2S+RM - Super budget 24 ports switch with basic features and 2 SFP+ ports for only $139 brand new, you just can't beat that price.
  
  
• Ubiquiti Unifi AP AC Lite - To handle wireless devices in my house, to be honest I was very disappointed with the temp, it runs very hot and it's the reason why I didn't mount it on the ceiling. If I knew all Unifi AP runs this hot, I would've go with other brand. Many people have told me that it's fine, but mine reaches 70 degrees on idle (I live in place where it can reach almost 40 degrees) and if I mount it on the ceiling without proper ventilation, it probably can go up to 80-85 degrees and I've seen couple post on Ubqt forum that their AP melted due to the temperature.
  
  
• Plugable 7 port USB hub - I have an unused spare. It's kinda expensive if you compare it to other cheap chinese crap but it doesn't backfeed power and super reliable, the other one is currently used to power my Pi2 24/7 for almost 2 years without single issue.
  
  
• Deepcool cooler - Super old notebook cooler I found on my garage, currently use this to blow the hot air from Unifi AP until I finish my mod to mount 120mm fan on the ceiling so I can put my AP.
  
  
• PC - Spec is G4400, Asrock H110M-HDV, PNY SSD CS1311 80GB, 2 WD hard drive 2TB, 8GB RAM, and 2x single NIC Intel PT Pro. This thing run Windows 10 and pfsense under Hyper-V (not a good idea I know). Also act as my media and storage server. I'm very surprised that this thing pulls less than 20w on idle!
  
  
• Others - Old monitor I found in my garage, probably from Intel dual core era, some cheap landline phone, a bluetooth keyboard, and bluetooth mouse.
  
  All these only pull about 40w, my next upgrade is probably to invest in a decent rack so I can have a better cable management.

The one with up to 80 MB/s read speed is only $8 more.

Or don't and get a raspberry pi and put Kodi on it.

Here^1 is^2 everything^3 you^4 need to make a KodiPi with enough space to put a bunch of movies on (if you wish, otherise just get a smaller mSD). About the same price as a brand new roku, but you can do a lot more with it, and it's open source so you could do whatever you wanted with the device.

Pretty reliable and inexpensive.

I've used this camera for the past two years or so. I've not had any issues and the quality is fairly good. Plugs straight into the cigarette lighter.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SK8B47W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have a buddy who got this camera and he's pretty happy with it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WJUqybR1YZRGS

I got this one for Christmas and it's really nice. Still waiting for something reddit worthy to happen in front of me though. Hopefully not involving me.

https://www.amazon.com/Rexing-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE

I bought this one. It has a wide angle lens, G-sensor (saves recording in a crash) and it’s easily mounted on the windshield, also, the shape of the dash cam makes it possible to be discrete.

Edit: It’s expensive but there are other models that are cheaper but may lack some fancy features. The key is to have a dash cam, be it a $300 gizmo or a $20 Walmart special, anything will help in an incident.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X528FNE/

If you get all those devices in one box, they're going to all be inferior to discrete solutions. And if one breaks, you're throwing away several perfectly functioning devices.

Edgerouter Lite 3-port: $95

Unifi AC-Lite: $86

TP-Link Gigabit Switch: $25

If you want to do cheap NAS, you might as well just share a drive on a desktop over the network.

Evening Tim,

My default suggestion is Ubiquiti gear. However something seems, very, very wrong with your network. You shouldn't have a device limit and I would pressure Asus for a fix. RMA it again and make them resolve the problem.

That being said, you said less than $200 so I will offer this:

https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C

https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/

Little bit more upfront config. However you will be far happier with the results.

If you don't care about the logo on the card

https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-microSDXC-Memory-Adapter-Performance/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=SanDisk+128GB+Ultra&qid=1570574681&s=computers&sr=1-1

I'll represent /r/mechanicalkeyboards here. Rant incoming.

Now, many of us do like to hook up smaller sized keyboards to our iPads (you'll occasionally see builds people do where they make a custom, usually wooden, case to hold their ipad and a keyboard like this).

I have many issues with this

1. Obviously the price. Mechanical keyboards are pricey, but the best of the best with standard (Cherry MX style like this) switches (the mechanism under every key) won't run you over $200. Usually smaller form factors like this are slightly cheaper too.
   
2. The switches. First off, it doesn't mention the make of the switch. While they are undoubtedly "MX" style, I highly suspect they are clones and not made by Cherry. Now, clones generally range from okay (Kailh) to great (gateron), but I suspect more of the former. At this price, I expect the legitimate thing or Gateron if not.
   
3. The switches, again. "Tactile "Clicky" Mechanical Switch " literally is the poorest description ever. "MX" style switches come in linear, tactile (there's a bump as you go down), and clicky (big bump, and click sound). They mean the latter, but honestly you could mix it up with the tactile style. Terrible description.
   
4. The typewriter keycaps are cool looking, but I don't think they're very functional. Typical keycaps are a great design. Your fingers naturally move up and down, so they are contoured to be flat on the vertical and "scooped" on the horizontal. This allows you to move up and down and discourages side to side. They also overall are scultped on the side to make it easiest to reach the each successive row from your home row (https://massdrop-s3.imgix.net/product-images/keycapprofileround2.png?auto=format&fm=jpg&fit=crop&w=376&dpr=1). So these flat keycaps don't appeal much to me.
   
   Now the keycap look might be your style, and the build quality, battery, and bluetooth are also good features. However, the price just isn't justifyable.
   
   If you want a mechanical keyboard/tablet duo, just get the magicforce 68: https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E8KO2B0 , and a converter for usb to lightning for an ipad. Or nothing for an android microusb tablet (they include a converter for that in the box!). Literally a fraction of the cost, at only the loss of wireless/battery.

With leds on

Amazon link for the keyboard

Usually in the cheap range (<$40), it is hard to find browns. They pretty much all come with blues.

Other boards i like if you are in the market

Magicforce 68 Outemu browns

Redragon K552 Outemu blues

I bought a $40 Magicforce 68 for work. I really like it. Great Keyboard with Brown Outemu (Cherry MX copycat). It is a popular cheap choice on /r/mechanicalkeyboards.

Check all your boxes but backlit. If you really want a backlit one, you can find it for $60. Worth it? You see...

This one! tbh I was looking for a 40%, but $40 was too good to pass up, and this one is still pretty small.

$1000 for an i5 / 1050 with a 144hz panel? That won't push those frames on newer games anyway. $1400 for a 1060? I can find better deals on amazon right now and it's not even black friday.


Acer Predator Helios 300 Gaming Laptop, 15.6" FHD IPS w/ 144Hz Refresh Rate, Intel 6-Core i7-8750H, Overclockable GeForce GTX 1060 6GB, 16GB DDR4, 256GB NVMe SSD

For $1100, even the non sale price is better than Wally.

I would say you can't go wrong with a D7000 body paired with a 35mm 1.8. That's exactly your budget and the D7000 allows you to use pretty much any old Nikon lens you can find. If you want more lenses, scout Craigslist (I've found some extremely good deals there). Kit 18-55s can be had for dirt cheap, as well as the ubiquitous 50mm. Depending on what you want to shoot, your lens preference my vary, though the 35mm is pretty much all-around fantastic especially for the price.

Others might say to use more of the budget on the lenses and less on the body but I find the handling of the D7000 to be so far superior to the 'lesser' models that it would be worth it (to me). I like having 2 dials and an LCD on the top of the camera. In addition, a D7000 + 35mm 1.8 is not a large kit as DSLRs go, so if you don't want to carry around a huge chunk of gear, that is a factor.

Edit: D90 is another decent choice, but I feel that sensor tech (particularly high ISO quality) has advanced enough between the D90 and D7000 that the D7000 is a much better (though more expensive) choice.

Get the Logitech one.

Unless you need the small form factor, this should perform identical to the cheaper 2.5in SATA drives.

I would do the following to be sure your laptop will last you several years:

1. Download software to monitor the temp of you CPU and GPU, personally I use MSI Afterburner
   
2. If your CPU temps are higher than 85C, consider undervolting using this guide
   
3. If your laptop is hooked up to an external monitor, get a laptop stand like this to increase airflow
   
4. Every 6 months or so, remove the bottom panel of the laptop, and use compressed air to clear out dust from the internal components
   
   Aside from that, I would also recommend replacing your slow 1TB HDD with a 2.5" SSD. I own a Y740 myself, and I replaced the HDD with this following this guide

29.99 for the sandisk 128gb on amazon right now if anyone's interested

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B010Q57S62/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new

Edit: nvm dead

An investment of around ~100 dollars plus another 40 for a fuse tap kit to use the car's power will potentially save you a plethora amount of headaches dealing with their word vs yours.

Camera is 1080p, very decent video quality

The Rexing V1

Tremendous reliability and great customer service.

A new model is out, featuring an in-built GPS and a rear cam, but it doesn't ship to India.

You're going to be surprised at how simple they are once you do put in some time to research them.

Mine is as simple as sticking it to the top of my windshield and plugging it in to the power. It will probably come with one of those power adapters that plugs into the circular-shaped power port (that cigarette lighter thing), but I got one of these and a long USB power cable instead, since it takes up less space and gives me an extra USB plug so I can charge whatever else.

I'd suggest this one, it's the one I have. The instructions are super easy to follow, and it has everything you need. They also have a comprehensive tutorial on their website if you need it.

You don't need to be techie to install a dashcam. You just need the dashcam and a few minutes. It must have taken me a total of 15 minutes to get my car set up with mine, and that includes the time it took to hide the wire properly.

One more note, if you are going to consider buying one. If your car gets hot while it's parked, consider getting a model that is detachable (like the one I referenced - you stick a small piece of plastic that allows the cam to clip on or off) or one that is mounted to the rear-view mirror. When your car gets hot, it softens the adhesive or suction, and the weight of the dasmcam might pull it away. In my case, the small piece of plastic is so light that it doesn't matter, I simply put it on and take it off when I need to. And if it's clamped to the mirror, the heat is a non-issue.

The AP you have specified is 802.11bgn only so its not a fair comparison. To be more equitable you should specify this AP which is 802.11a/b/g/n/ac. ($82.35 each)

Plus no one should be buying an AP in today's wireless world that doesn't have a 5GHz radio. 2.4GHz is overcrowded, interference laden shit and should be steered away from wherever possible.

I suggest the D7000 - I really like mine. The ergonomics (aside from the ISO button placement) are fantastic, and it feels very well made. I had some lenses already, but if you nave no lenses, I would go with the kit w/18-105mm lens and add the excellent 35mm 1.8. Also keep a sharp eye out for used lenses on Craigslist - The D7000 can use pretty much any old Nikon lens.

I was given an old Quantaray Vivitar 70-210mm 3.5 that would not meter on a friend's D50 but works great on the D7000. It isn't the best lens, but it is very fun to play with and has a macro mode.

Regarding lenses, some people will tell you to skip the kit lens and just go with primes. I disagree. Primes are great, but for someone who is just starting out and getting a feel for a 'real' camera, a decent zoom is great. 18-105mm is a huge range, so it should give you an idea of what focal lengths you like after using it a bit.

Edit: Fixed lens manufacturer mentioned above.

Good turntable, BAD price!

Amazon has it cheaper

The amp purchased was the FiiO A3 Portable (~$60)
The headphones (earbuds) mentioned were the Shure SE215 (~$100)

EDIT (with commentary):
I had read several reviews that said "don't expect to hear a difference right away when you buy your first amp, but use it for a few days then listen without it to see if you hear any difference at all".

Either I have super-sensitive ears, or amps really are this great. I can hear a difference right away. I'm literally in my first hour of listening, so I won't review this yet, but I won't need a few days to tell a difference; it is a night and day difference.

I both love and hate this sub because I'll now be interested in multiple amps, not just multiple headphones...

Not OP, but we've deployed Ubiquiti products in a few of our enterprise customers and it is running great. I am not sure how much you already know about networking, but I'll explain for anyone else reading.

First, some background to fully understand what it is you are trying to do. The thing that most consumers call "routers" are really three things: a router, a switch, and an access point. TLDR the router portion is the thing that actually moves traffic between machines, the switch extends how many physical ethernet ports you have, and the access point gives you wifi.

The Ubiquiti Access Points (UAP) are just access points. You will still need a router to route traffic, and your consumer one will work just fine for most people. If you are looking to get something more SOHO, Ubiquiti also makes their own router/firewall (check out USG, or ideally EdgeRouter). For all intents and purposes, it is a pretty good idea to separate the roles of your network (physical appliances for the router, firewall, wireless, etc...), and you can have as many UAP's as you'd like for wireless. The UAP's run off of Ubiquiti's 24V Power-over-Ethernet (POE), which can be provided via a POE injector or with a Ubiquiti Switch (either Unifi or EdgeMax). So for a basic network, you'll disable the wireless functionality on your consumer router, and plug a UAP into a port (obviously you'll need to pass it through the POE injector first). Rinse and repeat for however many UAP's you want, maybe another one on the other side of the house for example.

The UAP is pretty useless on its own, though. It needs a piece of software called the Unifi Controller. The software is free, and you can run it on Windows, Linux, or with Ubiquiti's appliance called the Cloud Key. Within Unifi Controller, you'll setup the UAP's; e.g. setting the visible wifi name (SSID), security, channels, etc... It isn't too complicated, the interface is really intutive and anyone who is even slightly technical could figure it out. The controller also serves another really important feature, which is zero-handoff. As long as the controller is running, your device will connect to the access point with the best signal. This is the seamless switching you asked about.

Ubiquiti also is focused on mesh networking, although we are generally pretty against that for businesses for reliability reasons. Of course, the exception to that is Cisco Meraki, which is a hybrid that will self-heal. If you lie and say you are an IT professional, you can get a free Meraki with a 3 year license. Just make sure that you follow the rules.

As a note, I would stick to the UAP AC's. They are the newer version and run great. For consumers, the UAP-AC-LITE is going to work fine. Obviously there is more to networking and wireless solutions than what I went over here, but this is the general gist of it.

Here is a video that goes over current SD card specifications pretty well. I'll post what I got out of it and a little bit of additional research:

CAPACITY

There are three different types of SD cards that indicate a size range. SD cards are up to 2GB and are useless for our purposes. SDHC cards are from 4-32 GB and are ill-advised since 32GB isn't really enough. What we're interested in is SDXC cards which are from 64GB to 2TB. Each card has a micro version which is what we need. Capacity type doesn't have an impact on performance.

WRITE SPEED

There are two different families of speed classes that indicate a minimum write performance. The first, traditional speed class comes in Class 2, Class 4, Class 6, and Class 10. The number corresponds to their write speed, Class 2 is 2MB/s, class 10 is 10MB/s. This class is denoted by their number inside of a "C".

The other family of speed class is UHS. There are only two types, type 1 and type 3. These are denoted by their number inside of a "U" shaped symbol. UHS1 writes at 10MB/s, UHS3 writes at 30MB/s. That means the Class 10 and UHS1 have the same minimum write performance, but we're just going to look at UHS cards from now on. It is possible for a card to claim a UHS class speed, and a Class 10 speed.

Bus Interface

There are two different bus interfaces for UHS cards, UHS-I and UHS-II. These are denoted by roman numerals rather than our numbers. UHS-II cards have a second row of connection pins on the back of the card, while UHS-I just has the single row. UHS-II cards can transfer data faster than UHS-I cards when they are in a UHS-II compatible machine. If the machine is not UHS-II compatible then there is no benefit, however the UHS-II card will still work as it is backwards compatible. It does not look like the Nintendo Switch is UHS-III compatible, so there is no benefit to using a UHS-II card in it, which is a shame because the II interface can help read speeds tremendously.

So what is Nintendo recommending with OP's card? A microSDXC UHS3-I card. Meaning it is a micro version of a 64GB card, with the best write speed class, and the standard/worse Bus interface.

Nintendo-licensed Sandisk microSDXC 64GB UHS3-I for $19.99

Non licensed Sandisk microSDXC 64GB UHS3-I card for $23

/u/Nobody_is_lurking posted two contenders...

Sandisk microSDXC 64GB UHS1-I card for $14.25

Sandisk microSDXC 128GB UHS1-I card
for $23.25


...but it isn't actually an apples to apples comparison, as they are both UHS1 rather than UHS3. The $6 question is how big of a difference is there functionally between the two speed classes when actually being used by a Switch, which someone already took the time to test!

The results show that, when write speed was involved, the difference was significant, and that installed games can go by 3x faster using a UHS3 card. So sure, the UHS3 is a clear winner for installing, but what people really care about are load times, showed a less drastic story. Installing locally on the Switch beats any external storage options that we're looking at, then the UHS3 trailed shortly behind, with UHS1 following a little longer. For a regularly installed game the difference in load times doesn't seem to be more than a couple of seconds, even if the load time is a minute long. This guy also tested homebrew launched games though, which did show a much bigger difference between UHS1 and UHS3. So there is a difference in load time, but just not a massive one that many people would notice.

Looking at value, for whatever reason the Nintendo-licensed cards are currently cheaper than their equivalent nonlicensed cards, both the 64Gb and 128GB. Obviously the UHS-1 is cheaper than the UHS-3 across the board.

But if you want to branch away from Sandisk you can have the best of both worlds with a Samsung 64GB UHS3-I card for $15 The price per MB stays consistent at bigger sizes as well, so if you wanted a 128GB one it'd be $30.

tl;dr Buy this one. It is better and cheaper.

Difference between this and this?

Inventory:

pfSense:
Snort, pfBlockerNG, OpenVPN, Squid, ClamAV, Default deny ingress/egress FW, etc.

ZOTAC ZBOX NUC

Kingston 120GB SSD

Crucial 8GB DDR3L RAM

ESXi Hypervisor:

Skull Canyon NUC

32GB DDR4 RAM

Samsung 950 Pro 512GB M.2 SSD

Virtual Machines I'm currently running.

Splunk - Receives my FW, DNS, Snort, and OSSEC logs. I have dashboards to filter this data.

Snorby - Also receives my Snort logs. I like this a little better than Splunk as I can view packet contents.

OSSEC - I used this for file integrity and endpoint monitoring on my servers and desktop. Functions as a host based IDS.

Nessus - I use this every once in a while to see if there are any open holes. Otherwise, I just use nmap and iptables to close everything off.

Unifi Controller - for managing my AP.


Wireless:

Ubiquiti Unifi AP-AC Lite


Switch:

TP-LINK 8-Port Gigabit L2 Switch

RetroPi + Monitor:

RPi3

10.1 Inch IPS HDMI Monitor


My VMs, configs, and files are backed up to a HDD I keep offline. I'm thinking about adding a NAS into the mix for somewhere around 200-400 dollars. Low energy consumption preferably if anyone had any recommendations. :)

>Daher meine Frage an alle, die unterwegs viel Musik hören: Wie macht ihr das so?

200GB MicroSD, mit über 17000 Tracks ist da auch mehr als genug Auswahl geboten. Wenns noch mehr sein darf, kannst du dir ja ne 256GB-Karte holen, die sind aber im Vergleich zur 200GB-Variante relativ teuer.

Check out the reviews on this, I got the Rexing V1. I absolutely love it.


My only complaint at all is that it occasionally doesn't record any audio, but that's pretty negligible for me really.


I save little random clips of funny shit I see all the time with the press of a single button. Couldn't be easier. And it's stealthy because it mounts right against the windshield. No suction cup mount was a HUGE part of why I chose it. Can't bounce around, way less likely to fall off, etc


EDIT: I sound like a fucking shill, how do I prove that I'm not?

I'd stay away from something like this. A lot of these console players don't have the best components, and if you're spending good money on records, you want to play them on something good. Some of the console style players come with great turntables and receivers, but a lot come with cheap stuff. For instance, the turntable could not have an adjustable counter weight on the tone arm, or not have pitch control so you can accurately set the speed. It could have something other than a standard mount cartridge too. Plus, things that are this old are prone to breaking, so if something goes out, it might be hard to fix or flat out impossible.

That being said, vintage isn't a bad route to go, just go with a dedicated turn table and receiver from a reputable company. r/vinyl has a lot of great guides for buying your first set up and what to look for as far as vintage gear. Just make sure you've got an adjustable counter weight and pitch control as I think those are the biggest factors in having a good turntable. With receivers you have a little more leeway, but you basically just need something with a phono input. Just test whatever you buy before you buy it. Remember, a lot of these things are 20/30/40 years old at this point and not everything is going to work properly. A vintage tube receiver from the 70's will sound incredible if you get one that it's great shape, but something solid state from the 80's or 90's will be just fine and much more affordable. Speakers you can probably find pretty cheap. Again, I'd recommend trying them before you buy them to make sure they're not blown, but typically if they're made my a reputable speaker brand, you're usually fine.

If you go new, I'd recommend getting one of these Audio Technica's. It's got all the features you'd need and it's got a built in phono preamp so you don't even need a receiver right away (you can buy a nice one down the line and improve your sound a ton). $250 for the turntable and drop another $100-200 on speakers and you'll have a badass setup, and the peace of mind that your gear isn't decades old and prone to breaking.

​

Edit: Again, I just want to drive home the main point I want to make. If you spend $20-30 on a single record of something you really love, don't cheap out when it comes to what you'll be listening to that expensive record on. I have a few friends who spend good money on new records, but play them on cheap $100 record players with horrible speakers and I think they're kind of missing the point. You don't have to drop thousands on a crazy audiophile setup, but why spend money on physical music if it's not going to sound good? Your smartphone through a $50 bluetooth speaker shouldn't sound better than what you're playing your $30 records on. I hope that makes sense.

Short answer.. DON'T BUY THESE..

Assuming the $60 budget..

These and This for starters.

If a sub is really needed. Just save up and buy a real one (~$200)

The last line makes me think you have an amp.. Do you?

Try checking out the Epson 8350 refurb: $900

A DIY screen from Carl's Place in 16:9 ratio 120": ~$100

A Denon 1913 receiver or whatever strikes your fancy at Accessories4Less: $280

This leaves you with around 700 dollars for speakers. There are a HUGE number of options at this point and the deals are always changing.

I recommend the BIC America F12 subwoofer: $200

Then for your last $500 dollars get two floor-standers and a matching center and whatever surrounds you can get.

At some point you will want to consider the following: speaker stands for bookshelf speakers, risers for floor-standing speakers, speaker wire, a second subwoofer (identical to the first), and room treatment for improved acoustics.

Don't let people say you can't have an awesome set up for 2,500. That is more than I've ever had to spend and I have a great time. Please post pictures when you've got it together!

EDIT: Some grammar.

Logitech G240 Cloth Gaming Mouse Pad for Low-DPI Gaming $14.99 ($19.99 - $5.00)

Logitech G13 Programmable Gameboard with LCD Display $38.99 ($79.99 - $41.00)

Logitech G400s Optical Gaming Mouse $31.99 ($59.99 - $28.00)

Logitech G700s Rechargeable Gaming Mouse $49.99 ($99.99 - $50.00)

Logitech G510s Gaming Keyboard with Game Panel LCD Screen $59.99 ($119.99 - $60.00)

Logitech G35 7.1-Channel Surround Sound Headset $59.99 ($129.99 - $70.00)

Logitech G710+ Mechanical Gaming Keyboard with Tactile High-Speed Keys - Black $94.00 ($149.99 - $55.00)


Logitech G19s Gaming Keyboard with Color Game Panel Screen $99.99 ($199.99 - $100.00)

edit: Are there any of these that I would have to be put to death for not ordering? :D I have this hole in my pocket you see...

edit2: swapped ending price and discount on G710+ - would have been a much better deal though...

edit3: prices are beginning to rise back to normal/sell out. Sad days.

edit4: Amazon is apparently going to try to get re-stocking done throughout the day to allow more purchases at the sale price. If it's out of stock when you look the first time, check again in a while. I'll try to keep this list up-to-date as best I can.

edit5: Even better, for me anyway. Looks as if if they are going to stop re-stocking the items, they are completely removing the item from the page I linked. If you see a strike-throughd item above, it WAS here, now it's gone Johnson. Again, will update as I can.

edit6: Nope. Bastards are re-adding items to the page... grumble grumble... :D

edit7: I decided to dig a little bit, and turns out, if you follow my links in this post rather than only relying on just the deal page itself, they are updated more frequently and accurately. So, use these links in conjunction to the thread title, and you may very well benefit! Still updating, sleepy times soon though... Maybe...

edit8: That's all, she wrote! Some of the items prices are retaining their sale value as of this last edit, so, maybe it'll be a new list price for them, who knows, but I am marking the sale as over, since the link is now officially pointed into oblivion.. Thanks for the wonderful day of sales and discussions, and for those of you who got some new equipment, congratulations! Hope you enjoy them!

I'm mainly echoing some things that other people have said but here's my two cents,

Can you use your thumb very well? You could consider investing in an MMO mouse like someone else suggested.

Also, if you have at least some use of your left hand to hit keys, like say, for example, you can hit 1, 2, and 3, but not 4, 5, and 6, you can consider getting one of those gaming foot pedals, and use the pedal as modifier keys so you can do say, like, 1 as a key by itself, left side of the pedal and 1, right side of the pedal and 1, and so on.

Another option which again, depends on your hands, is one of those ergonomic gamepads. You might find it easier to use one of these because of how the keys are spaced and curved inward than a traditional keyboard.

Again, I don't know your exact situation, but those are some recommendations as far as some hardware goes, which take varying degrees of monetary investment (but can be translated to other games, too!)

As far as your initial question involving Voiceattack, I don't know how Jagex's bot detection software works (obviously) but the general rule they put out is one input = 1 output, so if the program only does 1 thing per thing you tell it to do, like for example, if you tell it to use your 1 key, and it only presses that key once, then you should be good to go. However if it's set to hit 1, 2, and 3 in order when you only give it one command, then that's a no-go. But I personally would try to reach out to Jagex and get some sort of feedback from them first. That way if you somehow get banned or something, you're already out ahead of it and would probably have no issues getting your account back. Hypothetically speaking, though I'd think that this hypothetical is pretty out there anyway as long as the program is used within the one input = 1 output rule.

^ Also don't take my word to be gospel on this, I strongly strongly recommend getting official word from a Jagex rep before trying anything with any sort of program like that if you value your account

Good luck, and I wish you the best in your gaming endeavors

Need to upgrade my turntable. Looking at this.

Other suggestions appreciated.

Empfehle bei In-Ear ein wenig mehr auszugeben. Erstens gehen die Kopfhörer nicht dauernd kaputt und zweitens hast du einen deutlich besseren Klang. Nicht nur du frisst die Teile, auch ich habe das immer getan - bis ich mir gute gekauft habe. Auf Dauer sparst du dir damit Geld.

Hier meine zwei Empfehlungen:

Shure SE215

RHA MA750

$250 AV Receiver Denon 720 (refurb w/ltd warranty, has HDCP 2.2 Dolby Atmos)

https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrs720w/denon-avr-s720w-7.2-ch-x-75-watts-networking-a/v-receiver/1.html

$90 Micca MB42X Bookshelves PAIR for Front

$90 Micca MB42X Bookshelves PAIR for Surround

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2

$70 Micca MB42X-C Center Channel

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00HHFBEK6

$42 Micca M8C In-ceiling speakers EACH (for x.x.2 atmos)

$42 Micca M8C In-ceiling speakers EACH (for x.x.2 atmos)

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-M-8C-Ceiling-Speaker-Pivoting/dp/B002YPS6T6

$200 BIC America F12 12" Sub

https://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-F12-475-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0015A8Y5M

$550 Projector Optoma 142X (cnet.com "Best Picture for the Money" 2018)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HQCF6R6

$205 Elite Manual 120" Projector Screen

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OLO59EI

TOTAL: $1550

You will also want a universal remote (Logitech Harmony recommended), speaker wire / banana plugs, stands / mounts, HDMI + subwoofer cable. So with this stuff as well you're over budget, but you could grab everything except the sub and add that later, for example.

EDIT: found the projector recommendation here, with more research you might be able to find better (same for the screen):

https://www.cnet.com/topics/tvs/best-tvs/projectors/

You will NOT be disappointed with a UAP-AC-Lite. Just mount it on the ceiling, in a centrally located space in your home, preferably on the top level and enjoy the best WiFi you never thought was possible. I used to insist on wiring up everything with Gbps Ethernet, simply for the improved latency, but this access point has caused me to be lazy these days. We've had zero issues streaming 4K content out to the very edges of 2.4GHz band in an environment with moderate interference and there's regularly ~30 devices connected at all times across a couple SSIDs each on its own VLAN.

It's hard to describe how much better the experience is coming from the usual consumer grade stuff. $80 and can be powered (via PoE injector) from a single cable:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015PR20GY/

Built one this week, actually. Here's the guide I followed:
https://arstechnica.com/gaming/2017/04/one-upping-the-nes-classic-edition-with-the-raspberry-pi-3-and-retropie/

I bought my raspberry and 2 controllers off of Amazon. Cost me about $100 total. Canakit makes starter kits for around $80 that comes with all the hardware you need to make it ready to load games. Took about an hour to have it ready to load all your games. I have around 2k games from 5 different systems and they all fit on a 32 gb card.

Edit: I found the kit I bought. It was $70

https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY

If anyone is wondering which dash cam is good, I got the Rexing V1 and it works perfectly. This is the Amazon Choice for dash cams.

Features/Notes:

• Records in 1080p
  
• 170 degree view
  
• Turns on automatically when I start my car engine
  
• Turns off automatically a few seconds after I turn off my car engine (it has a small battery than can record a video without a power source)
  
• All the wires are hidden (see this video on how to hide them)
  
• I can't see the dash cam when I'm driving because it is hidden behind the right side of my rear view mirror
  
• After the SD card fills up, the dash cam just records over the oldest video
  
  Literally, after setting up the dash cam, I don't need to do anything to get it to run, nothing. I usually don't touch my dash cam for weeks.
  
  Now for the bad parts: the night recording isn't super awesome, but it is definitely enough to see what happened. Older firmware is super buggy, so make sure to get the latest firmware, which is perfect (the customer service is very responsive and awesome). After I updated my firmware, I've never had a problem with the recording or other parts of the camera. I've had it for 6 months.
  
  Get the recommended SD cards, don't use another SanDisk card, not recommended by Rexing (here's why).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

I'd also have to recommend the Samsung 840 Evo. I got a 250gb one for around $110 on sale back in march, and it's amazing.

They're still around $120 but it's totally worth it. I'd also recommend this size in particular. 120 is too small and the others are too expensive.

Transferring Windows over was a huge pain, but once it was done and I restarted, it was totally worth it. If you do a clean install it's way quicker. Seeing your pc boot to an instantly usable desktop in less than 10 seconds is totally worth it. Also putting steam on it was awesome.

I've been able to quit a cs:go competitive match, restart my computer, open steam, and rejoin the game well within the 3 minute window before you get penalized for leaving.

tl:dr get one

>storage capacity would go up in multiples of 8

It's not always advertised like that though. You can get 250GB or 500GB SSDs. But yes, typically with flash cards and USB drives, it's multiples of 8.

Get an Audio Technica AT-LP60 + an amplifier + speakers + speaker wire. That's what I have and it cost me less than $180. Here's the Amazon links for everything I have:

Record player

Speakers

Pre-amp

Speaker wire

STAY AWAY FROM CROSLEYS OR ANYTHING WITH BUILT IN SPEAKERS. DO NOT BUY A RECORD PLAYER UNDER $80. IT'S WORTH IT TO SPEND THE EXTRA MONEY AND GET A SETUP THAT WILL SOUND NICE AND WON'T DESTROY YOUR RECORDS. Can't stress that enough.

Search Rexing VP1 on amazon.

Edit: here you go.

Rexing V1 Car Dash Cam 2.4" LCD FHD 1080p 170 Degree Wide Angle Dashboard Camera Recorder with Sony Exmor Video Sensor, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_c5fQzbS4NFHKS

someone mention Amazon Price match this now Link

Here is how I got started:

Micca MB42 Bookshelf Speakers $40 refurbished
Micca MB42-C Center Channel Speaker $27 new
Denon AVR-1912 7.1 Receiver $75 used on Craigslist

The great thing about these speakers is you can order a $30 crossover upgrade from Micca and feel like you got brand new speakers.

You could also skip the center channel and get a subwoofer on Craigslist, instead.

Be mindful of what accessories you personally need. People needs are different. The only global accessories that seem to be useful to everyone:

1. A screen protector. This applies to pretty much any tablet accessory where the screen is not covered by design (like the 3DS clam shell). This is the one I got and it works well ($9.00):
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N3ASPNV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
   
2. A carrying case. Being portable, odds are you will want to take it out at some point. Seeing it's an expensive piece of hardware, it makes sense to have a case to put everything in it for protection. You can buy the neat ones with colors and crazy designs and space, but for me, this basic one works perfectly fine ($13.00):
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X97FLWF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
   
3. An extra charger. Unless you already have a Type C charger, you will likely want to get one. Usually goes for $15.00.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Charger-CHOETECH-Included-Nintendo-Supported/dp/B017I7EX46/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506098286&sr=1-8&keywords=switch+charger
   
   
   
4. If, and ONLY if you plan to get your games digitally, you WILL want an additional memory card. The one I paste below has enough space for at least 20 games given the average game space that we've seen so far (BoTW takes 14 GB, but Mario Odyssey takes 5.5 Gb, so in average, it evens out.). Note this is only the games you can have installed at a time, you can always remove one or more if you want to download another one, and games you purchase digitally will always be available for re download as long as the eshop exists.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V62XBQQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
   Any other accessory should REALLY be considered on a need-to basis. Not everyone needs a pro controller (depending on the games you play, I've been fine without it with only BoTW, Mario Kart, Fate/Extella and Mario+Rabbids.), and not everyone needs an extra, improved stand/dock.
   
   Finally, do some research on what games you will actually want to play. What I've seen is that games on the switch are NOT cheap, and unless you have extra disposable income, buying a game you don't really play can lower your overall appreciation of the system. Not only that, but because releases are sparse at the moment, it's easier to jump into the hype in order to keep using your shiny new hardware. Though that really applies to any console.

You can take off the built-in headphones, they just screw in. I'll be taking mine off because the built-ins are worse than I expected. These are my headphones, for reference.

Thanks for all the replies!! My OCD took over, and I compiled a list of every single pair mentioned by someone who uses them to sleep in. In this thread and the one I posted on r/AudioEngineering Check 'em out.


Acoustic Sheep SleepPhones - $40 for standard, $100 for wireless.

Pillow Sonic Pillow Speaker - $15

BedPhones - $54

Koss SparkPlug - $16

Senn HD280 - $100

PSC Softies Headphone Cover - $18

Beyer 770 - $230

Beyer 990 - $265

Bose QC15 - $270

Bose QC20 - $300

Shure SE215-K - $97

Shure SE315-K - $200

Shure SE535 - $440

Aurisonics Rockets - $100ish

Vsonic GR07BE - $130

Klipsch S4 - $120

HIFI Man RE-400 - $100

RHA MA750 - $120

sony 7506 - $85

Philips SHE3590GY/28 - $10

Koss KSC75 - $15

Ear Hero - $150

Sensaphonics 2max - $850

Shure SE-215

Great sound and they have a similar level of noise reduction as a pair of ear plugs. I usually wear a pair of ear muffs over them to reduce the noise level even further.

I can't recommend those portable record players to anyone. I had one for a while and the needle is shit, the sound quality is shit, and they really just pick up on every little imperfection in your records. Tiny scratches will make them skip, any sort of warping will be amplified times 10. I got this: http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT-LP120-USB-Direct-Drive-Professional-Turntable/dp/B002S1CJ2Q a few years ago and the difference is just night and day.

God dam, you’re right.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015A8Y5M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iPJDCbK826M4E

You really don't want your router doing wireless, it is preferable to have a dedicated Access Point (AP) doing wireless. Unfortunately what people think of "routers" now are actually three devices in one, they are a router, switch (multiple lan ethernet ports), and access point (wireless). Personally I feel the combo devices do a bad job at all three of those which is why I prefer to have dedicated devices for each piece. If you plan on using an existing router and just want wireless I would suggest the unifi ac lite access point.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY

If you need a router as well then I would use the access point and pfsense for your router. You could use a wired nic like this in an existing computer.

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-1000-Dual-Server-Adapter/dp/B000BMZHX2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527380550&sr=1-3&keywords=intel+dual+gigabit

Pfsense does support wireless cards but trust me you don't want to go down that road for many reasons. Any time that topic comes up most users on this subreddit suggest against it myself included. I have tried building wireless into my pfsense build before and quickly abandoned it.

Same here. Tried to be honest but Nintendo shipping 10 total minis to each store in Anchorage (insanity) pushed me over the edge. Amazon. Do it. https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1484331052&sr=1-3&keywords=raspberry+pi+3 that's the one I ordered. Complete kit. Join the resistance

I highly recommend anyone looking to do memory expansion for their Switch to not go with the particular version of the Sandisk Ultra microSD cards. You'll be better served getting either this Sandisk Ultra or the Samsung Evo that /u/Squidula linked to in his comment.

Both have 100mb/s Read/Write speeds versus this one's 48mb/s speed. Some games may lag or just not load at the lower speed and it's only going to be more and more of a requirement to have the 100mb/s speed in the future.

Magicforce 68

Just a few ideas...

• Nerdy stuff from ThinkGeek.
  
• A Raspberry Pi kit, if you think he'd be into tinkering with hardware.
  
• It's probably going to be more than $70, but a nice mechanical keyboard is a great gift. Das Keyboard, Code, and Logitech G710+ are safe choices.
  
• Book-wise, consider Code. It's a classic for every programmer to read.

It's pretty easy to build a Raspberry Pi for retro gaming. I have built 3 of them recently: 1 for myself, and 2 for family members.

First thing you'll need is the Raspberry Pi itself. You can get it for as cheap as $35, but that's just the system board. No power cord, SD card, or even a case. So I recommend getting this kit for $70.

https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY

It comes with everything you'll need: the system board, a case, 32 GB SDcard, HDMI cable, etc. This is the latest model, the Raspberry Pi 3. It has 4 USB ports for controllers, wifi, ethernet, even bluetooth. You'll also need controllers. The Raspberry Pi works best with Xbox and Playstation controllers. You'll have to use USB controllers, but I've read that the new Xbox One S controllers work with Bluetooth. Hell, you can even use your phone! If the Raspberry Pi is connected to your Wifi, just open up Chrome, enter the IP address, and BAM! Touch screen controller.

Next, you'll need RetroPie. This is a pre-made image for the Raspberry Pi. It has all the emulators and GUI you'll need. All you do is supply the ROMs. You can download the latest RetroPie build from here.

https://retropie.org.uk/

Next is the ROMs. I downloaded all the ROMs from EmuParadise.

https://www.emuparadise.me/

This part will take some time since you need to download the game individually, but you can find any game you are looking for. Even rare prototype versions of unreleased games for any system you can think of.

Finally, here's a good tutorial for putting it all together. Hope this helps!

http://lifehacker.com/how-to-turn-your-raspberry-pi-into-a-retro-game-console-498561192

I bought a Rexing camera off of Amazon that has been holding up well. Link here, I have this model with an included back camera that cost me $20 more.

You can go with whatever camera you want based on personal preference and budget, but I would recommend you get one that's a capacitor model, not a battery one. The capacitor ones only last a few seconds while the car is turned off fully but that's fine, you won't have to worry about a battery dying and leaking all over your car.

Mine only covers the front, but it’s this one:
Rexing V1 Car Dash Cam 2.4" LCD FHD 1080p 170 Degree Wide Angle Dashboard Camera Recorder with Sony Exmor Video Sensor, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-tRMAb9ETTJ3N

I originally had one that covered front and back but running it all the way to the back of my car sucked, there was no way to hide the wires. You might be better off just getting one for the front and one for the back.

Don't go with repeaters. What you should get is a wireless bridge. This will act just like a wire, allowing you to install an access point in the Hall with the same SSID and password (for roaming).

Repeaters cut the speed in half. Having several in succession means there will be nothing left at the other end.

Have a look at Ubiquiti Nanobeam AC. These will act just like if it was a long wire. You will be able to get a very good connection and the speed won't suffer. They are rated up to 15km, so 450 ft is nothing for them.

Install one on the church, one on the hall, and then get a nice access point for the hall, like the Ubiquiti Unifi AP AC Lite.

They aren't too expensive and should fit well in your budget. Amazon.com has them for $90 each. For the AP, Amazon.com has them for $82. If the hall is large, you could get a switch and 2-3 APs to get a good coverage.

Total cost for 2 nanobeam and an AP : $262
Total cost for 2 nanobeam, a switch and 3 APs : $454

So, a week into the new year, my Christmas gifts arrived: Shure SE215s and Scott Sumner's book, The Midas Paradox.

I plan on reading and reviewing Scott's book soon.^^(TM)

Sounds like the Klipsch S4 would be good on the less expensive end of your range, and the HiFiMan RE-400 would be good on the upper end of your range. I also think highly of the Etymotic MC5, MC3, or HF5. Then there's the trusty Shure SE215, but I don't think it'd go as well as some of the others according to your music taste.

Of all of those in your price range, I'd recommend the RE-400s or HF5s. Both are great IEMs. The RE-400 is highly recommended around this subreddit.

If you're willing to stretch your budget, there are also the Rock-it R-50s, which have great mids and highs, which I recommend for rock/metal/indie/classical.

Glad to have you join! I'll make a list of everything you'll need.

If you'll be upgrading in the future, it's a better idea to go with an amp and passive speaker setup, rather than active speakers. Then, next time you want to upgrade, you just need the speakers.

Here is that list:

Speakers


Nice little amp. SMSL makes really good budget stuff, and this amp is perfect for a set of desktop speakers. 20 watts per channel is plenty for being close to the speakers.

Speaker wire. Amazon Basics makes great stuff. If you want, you can get 100 feet of it for an extra $2 I think. You don't need banana plugs. They're for quick swapping of speakers, and if you only have one pair it doesn't really matter.


Simple wire stripper. Should work just fine.


Cable to plug it in. Again, Amazon Basics stuff is excellent quality. Especially this cable. I was honestly blown away with it when I got it.

-----------------------------------------------------

That's it. Everything you need.

If some point down the road you decide you want a sub, look at Dayton. They make a 8 inch, 10 inch, and 12 inch. Dayton Sub 800, Dayton Sub 1000, and Dayton Sub 1200 respectively. They can be had for around $100 to $150 depending on which one you get. I'd recommend getting one on Ebay if you're going to, and wait until they do one of those sales where the whole store is 15 percent off or whatever they are.

Hope this helps!

Debating picking up the Logitech pad for gaming and parametric modeling. Anyone know if it's worth getting?

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE/ref=lp_16352389011_1_9?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1502721197&sr=1-9

Actually I'm kind of nervous about it now. It's not reviewed too highly, most reviews note about keys dying after 2 months. I'll have to keep an eye on the mfg warranty. Oh well $35 is $35.

I wish Audio Technica would make a laser version of this.

Amen, brother. Best purchase I've done this year - thanks to my in-ear headphones, an 8 hour flight went by almost like nothing, except of course, it was a long-ass flight.


I only noticed some cunt was arguing with a flight attendant because I turned around to get my food, and even then, I don't know what she was yapping about.

It's the Audio Technica LP-120, you can fund it pretty much everywhere. Amazon

You get a hanpin clone, You get a hanpin clone, You get a hanpin clone; Errbady gets a hanpin clone.

nope. this is trash. it'll sound like shit, damage your records, and be a big expensive headache when you want to upgrade.

if you post your local craigslist we might be able to help you find a vintage setup for a lot cheaper.

if you want to order online, i'd recommend either this one or this one.

also, be aware that you'll need a pre-amp (~$20 on amazon for a simple cheap one), a receiver (easily found on craigslist- i don't know the going rate online for decent ones) and speakers (easily found on craigslist or at local thrift shops).

welcome! and good luck! and also, unless you're in the UK, don't call them "vinyls" :D

I wonder if the noise blocking earbuds like these would help. I have a pair and they're great on airplanes for blocking out crying babies and engine noise.

Well... To be honest you did get a audio interface designed to work with guitars and singer style microphones... When what you needed was an external soundcard.

There are major audio interfaces by the music industry. And your cool USB soundcard has some of the more popular ones... Yay! But it does not have what you want. Booo!

Your soundcard/interface is not designed for 3.5mm jacks. so you will need adapters to make it work.

On the front you have two XLR inputs or you can use them as TRS inputs. Pre sonus calls them "2 combo XLR/¼” mic/instrument inputs"

TRS inputs are big headphone jacks... 1/4 inch type. They would go in the middle of the inputs on the front. You would feed your mic in there. How? You can get an adapter that will allow your 3.5mm headphone jack to fit 1/4 headphones to fit the front area. Something like this... Can get them at Radio Shack pretty cheap. Make sure they are stereo and not mono though.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/400307-REG/Sony_PC234S_PC_234S_Mini_Stereo_3_5mm.html

You would need two of them, one for the headphones (labeled "phones") port in the back of the interface, and one for the mic part in the front of the interface.

If you are going to make music you got the right interface. If you are only using it as a really good soundcard, there are others that would fit you better. Like this...

http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1410104831&sr=8-15&keywords=audio+interface

Or if you got monies... this

http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Blaster-Surround-External-SB1560/dp/B00EZT7RE4/ref=dp_ob_title_ce


At the beginning I called one an audio interface and the other a sound card. Audio interfaces are a card that focus on the interface part, meaning the recording/band aspect of music and their connectors.. Sound cards are just making sound like the audio interfaces, but they don't include the band interfaces/ports/jacks and usually go to 3.5mm jacks like your headphones want.

Hope this helps.

I have the Logitech G13. It may be more expensive than this, but with the amount of extra keys + LCD display, I feel like it would be much more worth it than this. The G13 doesn't have mechanical keys, but they still preform exceptionally well. The LCD display may sound like a stupid little add-on, but it does come in handy. It comes with a few standard apps that include: Clock, Timer, RSS, POP3 Email Viewer, and performance monitor, and Media. Not to mention the ability to make your own applets.

Oh, and if you have Fraps, you will find that the G13 will have a Fraps applet pop up. It displays the current FPS for any Fraps compatible game.

At the time I bought it, the Logitech G13 was only $70. I programmed all sorts of macros that would either run full CLI commands or fill all but the last couple of digits/arguments (like 'ping 10.20.128.'). I became the Fastest nslookuper in the West with that thing. It was also cool to have hotkeys to launch apps.

Barring significant discounts, the following list tends to be the best bang-for-buck value subs, in order of increasing price:

$110 Dayton Audio SUB-1000

$140 Dayton Audio SUB-1200

$200 BIC F12. ^(Edit: not sure if designed by Dr. Hsu.)

$290 BIC PL-200 II (now $250). ^(Edit: Designed by Dr. Hsu.)

They are all great at their price points. But if you can swing the pricier BIC, you should be VERY happy.

For a reasonably priced beginner record player, I'd suggest this Audio Technica player

Not the best in the world, but at least you're not gonna tear up your records.

There are APs that have some switch capability, but most of them are enterprise level. You can put a router into AP mode and it may also switch locally, or you can install an open source OS on a router and set it up that way - but it's going to have more poor performance than a stand-alone switch or AP.

• Ubiquiti AC-LITE $80
  
• TP-Link 8-port switch $30
  
• 1ft Ethernet $1.50
  
• Power strip $6
  
  Total: $117.50 which is less than most routers and with better wifi and switching.

Well the control panel he used is this but you could build your own control panel for cheaper by using one of these. If you wanted to only run MAME games then you could easily get by with a Raspberry Pi. Next you want the actual cabinet... There are a few routes you can go. You could buy a kit, you could buy some sheets of plywood and build one yourself using these plans, OR if you're lucky you could find an old broken arcade cabinet on craigslist for super cheap. Once you do all of that you'll have to get the software running on the raspberry pi. So going back on the cost... You could spend anywhere from $500 to $3000 all depending on the specifications you want.

Source: Built one myself

Of course :)

Vital parts -

Raspberry pi: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C6Q2GSY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Controls: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251913055189?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Monitor: https://www.amazon.com/VIZIO-D24-D1-Class-Smart-Black/dp/B01A0LGS7W

Extras -

Amplifier (for the 3-way speakers): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HRR5AWQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LED lights (there's a glow below the controls): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H6O6LA0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the speakers I just tore apart some Fluance 3-way tower speakers I had laying around.

Here are my suggestions.

Mice:

• G305 is the top of my list. It's light, lightspeed wireless, good buttons, and a "perfect" sensor. 6 month battery with AA, you can make it significantly lighter with a AAA lithium ion with some tin foil jammed in it.
  
• G502 is the alternative if you want a wired, heavier mouse with more buttons and a better scroll wheel (it also goes left and right). You can get the different varieties of it, it doesn't really matter. They're all great.
  
• Treat yo self? Logitech G Pro Wireless. It's $150. It's the pro mouse. It's slightly bigger than the G305 and not that different. Save the $100, get the G305.
  
• Avoid: Corsair Dark Core RGB (and SE). You can get this for $25. It's supposed to be a wirelessly rechargeable wireless mouse (got all that?) with RGB, programmable buttons, and the peak of Corsair's mouse technology. It's shit. Dog shit. It doesn't recharge consistently (wirelessly) and has terrible mouse feet, leading to more friction when using it. The software is okay, but I cannot recommend this mouse despite the good price.
  
  Keyboards:
  
  
• Small form factor for cheap? Grab a 68 key keyboard with the arrow keys and some knock off cherries. They're like $40 and type well. I liked this one by Quisan.
  
• Want full sized? Go refurb Corsair or Logitech. Here is a Corsair K70 for $50. Here is the Logitech G610 for $60.
  
• Treat yo self? I got a Logitech G613 wireless mechanical for about $90. It's nice to type on, wireless with no lag, and the battery lasts for 6 months or more (mine is going on more).
  
• Avoid: bluetooth keyboards. That's really it. I've had Logitech, Corsair, and knock offs all work just fine for me. There are better brands, but pretty much everything from $20 mechs to $150 ones work pretty well if you follow reviews.
  
  I'll admit these are mostly from my perspective from the US, so I'm not sure how to check UK prices. I would imagine that since these are large brands, most of the pricing would be consistent.

I think it's only a difference of $50, not $120. But personally, the standard POE on the PRO is worth it.
Lite
Pro

Decent drive but a QVO not EVO which is much faster and be had at Amazon for $139 now if want a faster drive.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078DPCY3T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a pair of Shure e215 in ear monitors that sounds great and are super comfortable.

I've sat here a minute trying to think of a nice way to say this, and I can't, so here's what I've got, and it's not meant to be impolite:

$150 cad isn't enough for anything good, new. A soundbar may or may not be marginally better than your TV speakers. If you buy one with a sub, it'll add bass. It won't be clear, it won't be 'good,' it'll just be there. If that's all you want, well okay then. Regarding surround sound and music: More of the same. Music is generally just 2.1, and none of the soundbars will be anything even remotely interesting. For surround sound.... Similar to the bass: You will physically have sound coming from speakers around you, but it won't be good sounding.

I'm not trying to be high and mighty, I'm on a very low end setup compared to most people here (Denon X series and Elacs.) Honestly, for $150, you can buy something, and it'll sound 'different' than the tv speakers, but not 'good.' You'll either be adding bass or you'll be adding speakers around you, and that's all I can say about it.

I know you said you don't have the space for surround sound: What does that mean? How much room do you have? If you can, I'd vote to buy this receiver and preferably these or these if your budget forced. Those are small speakers, only about 8 inches. For very similar money, that's better and will eventually let you get a better sub and center / surround speakers. The "4.1" soundbar isn't real 4.1, it's just reflecting sound around your room. I'm sure it'll sound different, but just... meh.

You might want to check out /r/BudgetAudiophile Broadly though, they're all going to be similarly loud and similar in sound quality. I'd vote the LG or Samsung over Sony. I would encourage you not to get a soundbar.

EDIT: By the way, the LG does have a separate sub.

First of all: Screen Protector. Once it's on you never notice it, doesn't hurt to get that extra safety!

I've bought 10 games so far, and I'd say get all of these because I have enjoyed them. BOTW, Splatoon 2, Sonic Mania, Rayman Legends, Dragon Ball Xenoverse 2 (assuming you like DBZ,) Mario Kart 8 Deluxe, Pokken Tournament DX, Street Fighter 2 Ultra, Mario + Rabbids Kingdom Battle, and Yooka Laylee.

If I had to pick 3 for you to get to start out then I would pick Breath of the Wild, Splatoon 2, and Mario Kart 8 Deluxe. I think that's enough variety to keep you busy for awhile.

A carrying is always a good thing, I'd recommend This case because it's the one I use and does its job.

Accessory wise I have joycon grips which are AMAZING when playing with one joycon.

Also, the grip it comes with is trash. Get the Power A Grip it feels A LOT better in your hands.

As for SD Cards, it depends. I have a 32GB SD card. I mainly buy physical games, The extra space is for screenshots and videos, and download only games, like Sonic Mania, Yooka Laylee, etc. If you're going for digital only then get a 256GB. Sure you won't use a ton of space now, but you might a few years down the line. Also, do NOT get the official Nintendo ones. They are a RIP-OFF! Here are some nice alternatives that will get the job done for A LOT cheaper: 32 GB 64 GB 128 GB and finally 256 GB

If you have any other questions feel free to ask OP, and other (potential) switch owners!

Quick edit: sorry that some links won't be put with the text, no idea what the issue is

The unifi ac-lite is $81 on amazon so out of your budget but it's just barely enough to cover my small ass apt.. your house is smaller than this?

I didn't find it condescending at all. I found it helpful. I learned about which USB-c cable to buy from the comments. Thanks. Looking into memory cards now.

Edit. I ended up buying this one. SanDisk Ultra 200GB Micro SD (SDSDQUAN-200G-G4A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V62XBQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WqgRybN7CZK0A

Honestly I got the 200gb Sandisk here. It's probably the best value since the 256 is WAY more money. Anything more than this is a waste of cash IMO unless it's indeed true that the Switch's SD card reader can read/write blazing fast- even then, I can't justify any more cost than this.

$30 for an Ethernet cable

$70 32GB MIcroSD Card?

I can get a 200GB one for a little bit less!

The Moto Z costs 699.99. Let us assume the mod is 40 bucks. 739.98. I need to play four player multiplayer. 739.98 4 = 2959.92
Seems pretty reasonable. For the Switch, I'll need eight pro controllers, (These TINY and UNUSABLE Joy-Cons (What were they thinking with that name?) are not enough) so 69.99 8 + 299.99 = 859.91. Next, we need 7 more sets of Joycons, plus charging grips. (The layout of those Pro Controllers is awful. No analog triggers in 2017?) 859.91 + (109.98 7) = 1629.77. Okay, let's throw in 10 docks (How am I supposed to get the console experience without one in every square foot of my home?). 1629.77 + (89.99 10) = 2529.67. Okay, so next we're going to need a LOAD of battery packs. Here's a 20,000 mAh pack (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pocket-Juice-20000-mAh/183293926) that might (This is Nintendo!) work. 34.88 10 + 2529.67 = 2878.47. Oops, we forgot a microSD! 200 GB (Too small! We'll need four. https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-SDSDQUAN-200G-G4A/dp/B00V62XBQQ/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00V62XBQQ&pd_rd_r=YD4130B9T4VM4YRJHRSS&pd_rd_w=6v0nI&pd_rd_wg=IzihV&psc=1&refRID=YD4130B9T4VM4YRJHRSS) for 89.95. 89.95 4 + 2878.47 = 3238.39. Outrageous! Fake news! Sad! This costs more, and doesn't even have a SIM card slot. Well, I guess Nintendo will soon be pulling out of the market! Good riddance! 1/10 CNET

You can also get this one but I would recommend spending the few extra bucks on the other one

I have this one mounted in the top-middle of my windshield. Kind of above the rear view mirror. It's great, really easy to use.

Rexing V1 2.4" LCD FHD 1080p 170 Wide Angle Dashboard Camera Recorder Car Dash Cam with G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X528FNE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Here it is in action: https://youtu.be/By1dcrmw6e8

Rexing V1

Rexing V1 4K

I recommend exactly: SanDisk Ultra 128GB microSDXC UHS-I
(SDSQUNC-128G-GN6MA)

I own 3 of them and all have been working perfectly, started getting digital games since the Switch launch day on which currently I own well over 100+ Switch games.

Don't get the Nintendo branded SanDisk its extremely overpriced and its basically about the same one I suggested you.

I used to have those, but then I got a set of bookshelf speakers with an amp, and I am never ever going back. They blow even my old klipsch 4.1s away.

My current setup:

Micca MB42 Bookshelf Speakers With 4-Inch Carbon Fiber Woofer and Silk Dome Tweeter (Black, Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009IUIV4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JVxvyb84AS4AB

ONEU Mini amplifier Super Bass Hi-Fi Stereo Audio Amp Booster for Car Moto Home with DC 12V 3A Power Supply, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MBUX40/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sWxvybD03CTT7

I do not miss surround sound with how incredibly clear these guys are.

Whatever you don't go for a Crosley or any of those cheap portable players you see at Walmart, Urban Outfitters, etc. They'll ruin your records.

Most people recommend Audio-Technicas for cheap but solid first-purchase record players. Check out either the AT-LP60 or the AT-LP120. I've got the 120 myself and it's pretty damn good

That one costs 250$, it's an Audio Technica-LP120



I got it on Amazon using Anthony Melonheadtano's affiliate to kick him some money since he's the one that got me into vinyls.



It's expensive I know. The first one i got was a cheapo 40$ one on amazon, but upon reading reviews, and seeing how cheaply built it was, I returned it and just waited a few more weeks to get me the expensive LP-120. In terms of turntables, it's quite cheap and a great price for such a quality turntable.



I'm not into vinyls all that much (I only have 7 records, of which all of them are Kendrick Lamar). But I decided to return the cheap one because of the damage it does to your records. Any turntable under 200$ will scratch your records over time, and it's not worth it.



I'm not a snob either. I hate snobs, but this is probably the lowest end you'd wanna go. It has a counterweight setting for the needle so it doesn't put too much weight down onto the record (which is what separates cheap turntables from the good ones). It's heavy as fuck and has a lot of little fancy doohickeys like reverse mode, pitch settings, different record lengths, and those dots on below the record indicate if the turntable is spinning at a precise rate that you want it to.



I know this is too much information for what you asked, but i'm letting you know why it's so expensive. You can still collect vinyl records without a player. If you don't have 250$ to spend on a turntable, just keep your records on a shelf to look at and wait until you can get a decent turntable so they don't ruin your records.



Another good option is to try and find one on craigslist, ebay, or local garage sales/swap meets/goodwills, but I don't know much about old turntables so I just chose the slightly more expensive route.



One day when I'm older I wanna be able to play Kendrick's albums to my grandkids (if i even have kids) or friends down the line, and if you use a cheap turntable that's under 200 bucks you won't be able to do that without it sounding scratched and skipping over portions of the song.




Believe me I didn't want to spend 250$ dollars on this shit since I don't even have that many vinyl records or play it that often, but I wanted to go the high way or nothing at all.



edit: You also need your own speakers for it. I got lucky and found some very nice logitech speakers next to the dumpster at my apartments. I dont know why someone threw them away but they worked so good and have the best bass i've ever heard in two tiny little speakers. It's better than the speakers I have hooked up to my computer right now lol. They were 140$ logitech speakers that worked perfectly fine and I got them one day just taking out the trash.

The items used:

Raspberry PI Zero <- Bougth mine at local store.

http://amzn.com/B00S82B0VA <- Karaoke Mixer

http://amzn.com/B00SNLIG5O <- 128GB SD Card for storage

http://amzn.com/B001MSS6CS <- USB Audio Card

http://amzn.com/B003MTTJOY <- Wifi Adapter

http://amzn.com/B005HKIDF2 <- Usb Hub

A total of around ~$90



Edit

If a mic is needed that add $20
http://amzn.com/B003GEBGA0 <- Mic

My issue is you could get a simple quick pad with an analog stick for significantly cheaper. While the design is cool.....There are all already better and cheaper methods.

>The Raspberry Pi Starter Kit features a 3 Model B, 8GB NOOBS SD card, a case, 2.5A multi-region power supply, HDMI cable, optical mouse and keyboard, and a copy of Adventures in Raspberry Pi Foundation Edition.

>You Can Now Connect a Camera to Raspberry Pi Zero
Initially available online in the UK.., the £99 ($132) collection will roll out to the rest of the world over the coming weeks.


That is an approx 50% increase to the deals I've seen around. You only really need the raspberry pi, an sd card, and a 5v 2.5a power cord.

Most people already have HDMI cables, a mouse/keyboard. A case is nice but my media center pi just hangs out with it's components out, all naked on the media center table. It doesn't need no stinkin case.


Here's the Amazon kit @ 74.99


Adafruit throws in some more tinkering components for 89.95


Sparkfun also has that deal at 89.95


edit: spl

Sandisk Ultra 128GB Micro SDXC UHS-I Card with Adapter -  100MB/s U1 A1 - SDSQUAR-128G-GN6MA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_s.dNBbY708CJ1

Samsung 128GB 100MB/s (U3) MicroSD EVO Select Memory Card with Adapter (MB-ME128GA/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWZWYVP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_..dNBbQ9AWBT5

Ofertas previas al viernes afro:

• JBL Charge 3 (90 dólares)
  
• ASUS VG248QE 24" (170 dólares)
  
• AOC G2460PF 24” (180 dólares)
  
• Acer GN246HL 24" (192 dólares)
  
• GOPRO Hero 7 y Samsung 128GB 100MB/s (U3) (199 dólares)
  
• Logitech G933 (90 dólares)
  
• Samsung 860 EVO 1TB (128 dólares)
  
• Samsung 970 EVO 500GB M2 (117 dólares)
  
• WD 4TB Elements Desktop Hard Drive (90 dólares)
  
• WD 8TB Elements Desktop (150 dólares)
  
• WD 10TB Elements Desktop (200 dólares)
  
• Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz C15 (125 dólares)
  
• Xbox One S 1TB Console - Minecraft Creators Bundle (200 dólares)
  
• Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum (48 dólares)
  
• Logitech G600 MMO Gaming Mouse (35 dólares)
  
• Fire HD 10 Tablet (100 dólares)
  
• NVIDIA Shield TV | 4K HDR (140 dólares)
  
• Kindle Paperwhite (130 dólares)
  
• Xiaomi Mi Box - 4K (62 dólares)
  
• SanDisk 128GB Ultra Fit USB 3.1 (20 dólares)
  
  De nada...

$40 Mech Keyboard

$40 Headset

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_a137BbTQN6JV7

First thing you need to ask is when did you buy your switch? If it’s June of this year or after it’s probably got a hardware patch and you can’t hack it. You can check here by serial number.

If your switch is exploitable then go on amazon and get yourself an sd card (may want bigger storage depending on how many games you’ll want) and a jig.
Alternatively, you could get an SX Pro, but unless you don’t mind spending extra money, it’s kind of overpriced and everything you need to do without it is pretty cheap and easy.

It’s easiest to let your switch format your sd card to exFat, but DON’T update to 6.2 FW yet. It’s cracked but CFW hasn’t been updated yet. set up 90DNS.This is so you can use internet apps like YouTube and even play some games online later on non-Nintendo servers without worrying about Nintendo detecting your mods. Also, FYI the switch lan play works on OFW and banned switches as well.

Then backup your clean NAND using hekate
VERY IMPORTANT you do this BEFORE you load any CFW or autoRCM for the first time. The only way you’ll ever be able to go back online to eShop and play online on official Nintendo servers is to restore your clean NAND backup (removing CFW). Also keep in mind your fuse count will need to be the same when restoring this so try not to update your FW (even using offline methods) unless you do it without burning fuses.

Then follow instructions here to setup ReiNX (CFW) and a few other important programs and settings you’ll need.

Then go get Smash and have fun!

In case anyone is considering this, if you know absolutely nothing about computers and want a little something to get your small child interested in technology, this can work as long as you have the cash to spare. However, it is a huge rip off otherwise. If you have any competence with computers, just get a Raspberry Pi 3 kit and plug it into your HDMI capable TV. It'll cost you a fraction of the price and have much more ability to grow with the child.

This is the type of stuff that Raspberry Pi was invented for. It's a low cost, small (credit card sized) PC that runs a distribution of Linux. Something like that is perfect if you're learning Java and don't already have a PC.

https://www.raspberrypi.org/

You can get a starter kit with the Pi, case, SD card, and power supply for like $70 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/

Only other thing you'd need is monitor, mouse & keyboard. I have a few of these, they're pretty good, and would be more than enough for learning on.

The guide is for a Raspberry Pi, which you can connect to from a windows machine, yes.

Qisan Magicforce with Blues:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ABUJ2KM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523897952&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Qisan&dpPl=1&dpID=41JrKWyK32L&ref=plSrch

Qisan Magicforce with Browns:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E8KO2B0/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523897987&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Qisan&dpPl=1&dpID=41MDmUOhuPL&ref=plSrch

Redragon K551 with Blues (Keep in mind this is the one with red backlighting. You can choose the one with no backlighting if you don’t want it. Rainbow one is a couple bucks over your budget but has set lights while the RGB one is roughly 5 bucks over your budget but has relatively programmable lighting):

https://www.amazon.com/Keyboard-Mechanical-Redragon-illuminated-ABS-Metal/dp/B016M91SS0?th=1&psc=1

Redragon K552 with Blues (The TKL version of the K551. This is the rainbow version with set colors for each switch as it’s under your budget. The RGB version is over your budget by 3 bucks. Same applies though, you can go for no lighting or just plain red for less):

https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-KUMARA-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B01LZN7MLE?th=1&psc=1

Velocifire full-size with Blues (Just know that rainbow LEDs means you cannot change the color of the switches. It is not full RGB. It’s still pretty cheap if you want at least some multicolor things, but the colors you see are the colors you get. A bargain for 26 USD though, cheaper than the Redragon K551 rainbow version, although the color of the board is harder to work into a setup compared to the K551’s straight black):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01C8HMIES/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1523898681&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Velocifire&dpPl=1&dpID=51xyHHRfUTL&ref=plSrch

There is also a version of the VM30 with black switches and is also 25 USD. It seems out of stock right now. If you want to wait a bit on that, it’s the cheapest board I’m aware of that comes with black switches:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07BFGZ891/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523899072&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=VM30+Black+switches&dpPl=1&dpID=51MCGebQeDL&ref=plSrch

Velocifire full size with Browns (If you’re looking at the wireless version, don’t. The wireless mode of it sucks according to everyone I’ve asked who got it. The only good thing of the wireless version is that you can run wired so that means you’re paying an extra 10 bucks for a removable cable option):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M0QEYR4/?th=1&psc=1

Velocifire TKL with Browns (I linked the wireless version because it seems like the wired version is discontinued. If you can find it, the wired version has blue backlighting and an attached cable for 30 USD. The wireless has a crappy wireless mode, no backlighting as far as I’m aware, but a detachable cable for 40 USD)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B076D5WVYG/

If you’re looking for something like red switches because “gaming,” just know that is pure marketing bullshit. If you’re looking at reds because you actually want them. I’m aware that the Qisan Magicforce also comes in red, but I couldn’t find the 40 dollar option. That’s the only board I’m aware of that has reds in your budget range, but I’m sure someone who knows more can throw one out.

Finding a mix of battery life, portability, and a powerful graphics card may be a bit difficult in your price range. Games like DOOM and PUBG are fairly demanding and will require a decent dGPU to run smoothly.


I wouldn't really suggest any of your three choices there. If anything, the non-refurbished Acer Helios 300 would be a significantly better choice - especially if you have Amazon Prime (it reduces the price to $900). With a GTX 1060 it'd be easily powerful enough for your needs, has a decent build quality, and an okay battery life. However, it is a bit on the bulky side at 5.6 pounds.

An even better choice may be the Lenovo Legion Y530. It's not quite as powerful but it's still easily good enough for the games you've listed. It's also a bit lighter at 5.0 lbs, has a bit more sleek of a design, and an okay build quality. Unfortunately the battery life on it is below average at just 3-5 hours.

If you want more options to compare check out my recommendation guide. Also feel free to comment if you have any questions, best of luck!

I would strongly recommend focusing on refurbished laptops. Separately, you're either going to be looking at "gaming laptops"
or "professional mobile workstations." You want at least 4 cores (8 total threads aka virtual cores) for the CPU. Almost all current CPUs have 2xcores = threads/virtual cores, at the moment. It's nice. (Edit for clarity-- the # of cores advertised is usually recognized as 2x as many cores by the operating system and related software. This is "cores" vs "threads" in advertising and formal specs) You'll probably want Intel gen 8 or 9 or ryzen 5. If your applications are heavy on CPU, the more cores/virtual cores, the better. More cores can cut rendering time down significantly.

Regarding CPUs: there is a base clock value, and a boost clock value.

Example for Intel here

Example for AMD here

Google the specific processor. They boost automatically, on demand. They are advertised, however, with base clock (unless it specifically mentions "boost"/"turbo" next to the number). Boost is generally and reliably consistent, so it's safe to choose a CPU if the boost frequency meets the softwares' suggested/recommended CPU specs/speed. I pretty much guarantee your focus will be on core count, not speed, as the machines you're looking at have ample CPU speed across the board.

Regarding GPUs, this is what will likely break your budget. A quick search for "best laptop for Oculus Rift 2019" (strong emphasis on quick) came up with this one as the only under $1k before tax. That's a decent little machine. I'd be worried that it'd overheat, and that's something you should consider-- either cooling options (raise it off the desk/surface, fan blowing under, or similar) or getting an actual PC with better fans. Gaming laptops slow down due to heat when they're doing things [read:VR], and in my experience, their overall life/viability is reduced on the whole.

Further, re:GPUs:

You do not want "embedded" or "on board" graphics. You need a dedicated GPU (with the physical connections needed for the VR headset).

depending on what you're rendering, the GB value on the GPU itself matters. If your virtualized and/or rendered scene has high detail textures (think about an actual 4k image repeated 16x to cover a large wall in your VR scene), those 4/6/8GB of memory on the GPU itself will be needed to store that texture data. Higher the GB value on the dedicated card, the more texture detail your VR space will be able to handle.

If you have questions about certain CPUs or GPUs as you're looking at these things, just go to youtube and check for that component and how they work with VR. Shoot-- check for reviews for that specific component for any ofd the specific applications you're using. There's tons of reviews/content on that sort of things across the board. Separately, newegg, frys, microcenter, amazon-- focusing on refurbished, I believe, is your best bet. GL Last edit-- you'll be fine with 16GB RAM on any of the related machines.

That is $700 for an i5, 8gb of ram, and no ssd. Seems like a shit deal to me. Definitely not worth $1000.
EDIT: this is at least what you should expect from a $1000 pc https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Predator-Overclockable-Aeroblade-PH315-51-78NP/dp/B07CTHLX8C/ref=mp_s_a_1_115?keywords=gaming+laptop&qid=1558587218&s=gateway&sr=8-115

Ubiquiti is your friend. Assuming you have line of sight, a pair of Nanobeam AC units are exactly what you need.

You need a site to site link like that because if you just 'boost the signal', even with a very powerful base station, their mobile devices won't be able to reach back to your very powerful base station. So you put a Nanobeam on your house, another Nanobeam on theirs, and plug their Nanobeam into an access point like the UAP-AC-Lite.

>This will be my first home theater setup, so it doesn't have to be the most insane sound quality

Why are you looking for 5.2 then?

Also, you probably want to stay away from HTIB if you're look for something that looks and sounds good.

$160 Receiver

$290 Energy Take Classic 5.1

If you're really concerned about bass, you're probably going to need to up your budget, these guys are pretty well regarded

If you want to spend more on speakers, these are solid intro to home theater speakers too (at $112 per speaker for L/R + $350 for a center channel) and I'd skimp on the surrounds and just buy whatever's cheap

The Steps too PC gaming headset success:

First a disclaimer. PCgaming headsets are subpar compared to equivalent consumer and entery level audiophile headphones. Buying a gaming headphones basically means you're paying money for the marketing term "gaming."

• Don't buy a gaming headet
  
• Buy an open back pair of entry level audiophile cans like These ( I assure you they're normally cheaper, they seem to have a price hike right now cause they're low on stock)
  
• Buy an Antlion mod mic or a zalman mic 1
  
• Now you can enjoy far superior sound quality than any game set can offer you. Bonus? You'll also be able to enjoy music at a much higher quality than you would have before.

I really like the Chomecast Audios.
I use them with these amps
and these speakers 1 2
. All work really well together

I just tested on Amazon.ca and prices for the same products are about the same. Without mention of a rebate/sale.

32GB= 15$CAN
200GB= 139,99CAN

consistent with the USD to CAD exchange rate of 1,36CAD for 1USD.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X528FNE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Though they make one that has a rear view camera as well, and at this point I wish I had gotten that version to have front and rear facing cameras.

If you're on the fence there are cheap like 20 dollar cameras that I initially bought and used for a year to get used to having one.

Basically something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Btopllc-Recorder-Recording-Dashboard-Recorder-Black/dp/B072MQ29Y7/ref=sr_1_12?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1503100203&sr=1-12&keywords=dash+camera

They work decent but I REALLY like my new one, its so much better.

I recently got this one. I did several comparisons, the quality and especially wide angle was better in this one. I found it not very cheap or very expensive, just somewhere in the middle. But you can find anything based on your budget.

https://www.amazon.com/V1-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE

Is this a price error?
Nevermind, same price on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDXC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-128G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q57S62

Also on sale at Amazon for $88.13, an all time low for Amazon.

For general listening, these headphones are quite good but I prefer other cans. For competitive gaming, I think these are the best you can get for under $400. The soundstage on these are enormous.

oh no... one of these is not like the other

try these

try these for something portable

if bose are a choice you're considering, bose are EXTREMELY overpriced for bass-heavy sound, the only thing they have over their competitors is they have excellent noise-cancellation

woot ordering, how does this one look? ty for input everyone

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE250BW/dp/B00E3W1726/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1415202913&sr=1-1&keywords=ssd

So this is a good question. For my movement and abilities, I use this:
Logitech G13
My mouse is a Razer Naga Epic.

Both were basically intended to play WoW.
I'm left handed. I used to use my left hand for mouse and right hand for movement (using the numpad). I've been a console guy for the last 10 years or so, but when my son started playing PC games, I switched to right hand so we didn't have to mess with the bindings as often. It was WoW, so it wasn't a big deal. It's been a little more tricky in OW, but not so much that I've considered switching back to lefty.

Anyway, you are correct that I'm using a stick for my movement, but I'm using a mouse for aiming. It's set at 1600 dpi and 3.1 in-game sensitivity. There's no acceleration enabled and the windows setting is at 6. It gets me a 360 in about 25.5 cm which is about the width of my mousepad. I actually lowered the sensitivity in the last week to try and increase my overall accuracy. I think you are probably correct that I don't have much "snap" but part of that is that I have been consciously trying to avoid the sporadic, jerky movements I was getting at higher sensitivities.

My intent was to work on accuracy with the lower sensitivity and then increase it as time passed to allow more rapid target acquisition. Think I should try something else?

Do it. I got the deluxe vinyl boxset. You get a bunch of artwork, alternative album cover, vinyl, a super sick "rebel just for kicks" bumper sticker, other swag, and the album! And you get a digital download. And if you want to get into vinyl, the AudioTechnica AT-LP60 is a good, relatively cheap turntable that has a preamp built in so you can just plug the aux into any speaker and bump vinyl.

I have the Audio Technica LP-120, and it is amazing. Highly recommended as an entry level turntable.

Super envious of your collection already!

Within your budget:

• Dayton Sub 1200 ($130): http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-SUB-1200-12-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B00669L3HS The cheapest subwoofer I would actually recommend for a home theater setup. A nice review here: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/speaker-subwoofer-reviews/71766-dayton-audio-sub-1200-subwoofer-review.html
  
  
• BIC F12 ($185) a step up from the Daytons in terms of output: http://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-F12-475-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0015A8Y5M
  
  
• NXG NX-BAS-500 http://www.radioshack.com/nxg-nx-bas-500-12-500-watt-powered-subwoofer/55058551.html I use this subwoofer for my office. Good output and surprisingly musical for the price. IMO, this is the best subwoofer under $300. A review here: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/speaker-subwoofer-reviews/67178-nxg-nx-bas-500-subwoofer-review.html

Yes, the general consensus among audiophiles is that Bose is overpriced and soundbars are very underwhelming. "Real 5.1 sound" cannot (yet) be achieved without a real 5.1 setup. Most HTIB (Home Theatres in a Box) will give you better sound than a soundbar.

I own this 5.1 Pioneer speaker setup found here and I highly recommend it to anyone that is looking for a good entry level home theater setup. Shop around and you can get a fantastic deal on the whole setup. I got the 5.0 setup for less than $300 and then upgraded to a $200 BIC 12 sub to get the 0.1.

You will then of course need a decent reciever (about $250) and cables and you will blow any speaker bar out of the water. I am not certain if this is within your budget since you only quoted "cheaper than bose" but I have seen this exact setup recommend many times before and I feel it is one of the best values for the price.

Edit: I was way under your budget. You could definitely do better than this setup at your price range.

Hello, fellow Canadian!

DO NOT BUY THIS SYSTEM. You can get a MUCH better system for $25.49 more.

Check this out:

ELAC F5 Towers - $839.98

ELAC B4 Surrounds - $269.99

ELAC C5 Center - $319.99

BIC F12 Subwoofer - $295.53 (incl. shipping)

Sub-Total: $1725.49

I would recommend just getting ELAC B5s or B6s for the front speakers and you can save a couple hundred dollars more (which I might put towards a better subwoofer or a second subwoofer).

Sorry I wrote all that without directly addressing your question, but that Polk package is bad value (even though it's on sale) and the included subwoofer is a pile of steaming shyte.

So, for pairing speakers with a receiver, pretty much anything works. Denon, Marantz, and Yamaha are the most recommended brands here.

Gibby's Electronics sells the Denon X1300 for $399.99 (b-stock) but they're out of stock. They also have the S710W for $399.99 (b-stock, I don't get the pricing), which is probably your best option unless you're willing to wait for b-stock to come in for the X1300.

Hi! The Raspberry PI only has audio output. You need an external sound device to get the audio signal into the PI. It's likely that any cheeeep-o Amazon USB audio device will be discovered by the Linux kernel, no drivers needed. I have one of these ripped apart and soldered directly to an HT for packet work, and it does fine under Debian.

edit - wrong link*


https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1484950528&sr=8-1&keywords=SYBA+external+USB+Stereo+Sound+Adapter+for+Windows%2C+Mac%2C+Linux+Extra+Audio+Source+with+Microphone+SD-CM-UAUD

Please invest in a better vinyl player. That tonearm doesnt have any weight to it and actually damages your records. If you're serious about vinyl that is...

Might I suggest the Audio-Technica ATLP120USB

Great record by the way! I bought it aswell, love the red!

I mentioned in the sub-required 300+ word description that I will be getting a table for Christmas. Along with new Sennheiser HD6XXs, and the speaker/amp setup I already have.

I see this more as getting sport tires for the car I know is coming, not stocking up on gas. As soon as it shows up in two weeks, these are all going for a spin.

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: Shure SE215s


|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|UK|amazon.co.uk|
|Spain|amazon.es|
|France|amazon.fr|
|Germany|amazon.de|
|Japan|amazon.co.jp|
|Canada|amazon.ca|
|Italy|amazon.it|




This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

When earbuds break it is indeed usually the wire that goes.

My solution is to use earbuds with replaceable cables - I use these for the gym https://www.amazon.com/MEE-audio-Universal-Fit-Noise-Isolating-Detachable/dp/B00SLVB71Q (come with a replacement cable, I've used maybe 2 or 3 cables in 2 years, the headphones should sell for ~30 USD at a sale) and these for home/sleeping: https://www.amazon.com/Shure-SE215-K-Isolating-Earphones-MicroDriver/dp/B004PNZFZ8/ (I've worn out two cables in ~two years, they cost 10-20 USD to replace).

Get a case to carry them around in, stick the wire inside your shirt, and you're mostly fine. Both of those also have bluetooth accessory cables to buy separate if you decide you do want to go with a bluetooth solution (as do most other decent in-ear headphones).

check out the Shure SE215s. heard nothing but great things about them, and they supposedly have really solid bass response. Plus the cables are detachable.

The D3300 can absolutely take great depth of field (DOF) photographs, but it does help to have the right lens.

Here's something I happened to shoot on a hike. This was shot with a d5300, which has the same sensor and crop factor as your D3300. I used the Nikkor 35mm F1.8 prime lens, which is excellent for DOF work.

Here are some hints:

• Use Aperture Priority mode (A). The wider your aperture, the shorter your depth of field.
  
• Use the widest aperture possible^1. With the kit lenses this usually means f3.5-f5.5, depending on focal length.
  
• Move closer to your subject (closer subject means shorter DOF)
  
• Put more distance between your subject and the background (background will be more out of focus.)
  
• If you want to shoot portraits at 55mm, use the 55-200 lens not the 18-55. The 55-200 is faster than the 18-55 at 55mm^2.
  
  A longer focal length will tend to reduce DOF, but with the kit lens zoom will reduce aperture. Longer focal length also means that you'll need to stand further away from the subject to get the framing correct. Distance increases DOF.
  
  Try using the kit 18-55mm lens at about 35mm and open the aperture wide. Move the subject away from the background. Chose a background with some texture that contrasts against your subject. Make sure the background is far behind the subject.
  
  If you want to take DOF shots, a faster lens helps immensely. For landscape and group photography, the Nikkor DX 35mm f1.8 lens is a great bet. For shooting portraits, consider the Nikkor FX 50mm f1.8 prime. Both cost $200, and are absolutely worth the price.
  
  I recommend the 50mm for portrait photos because the zoom helps move you away from your subject. A face/shoulder shot with the 35mm will tend to distort the subjects features. 80-100mm is generally considered a good distance for portrait photography, but the fast 100mm lenses are much more expensive than the 50mm prime.
  
  One other hint... Consider enabling Auto-ISO on your camera. Getting Auto-ISO right takes patience, but it makes shooting much easier once it's set correctly. Mine is tuned so that ISO stays at 100 normally, but increases to keep the shutter speed at a minimum of 1/50.
  
  ^1 This doesn't always apply to extremely fast lenses. The 35mm f1.8 has a razor thin depth of field wide open. I have taken many shots where there isn't enough DOF to capture the entire subject at that aperture.
  
  ^2 This advise has a major caveat: While the 55-200 is wider at 55, the minimum focus distance is much longer. You'll get a shorter depth of field and better bokah using the 18-55 at 1' and f5.6 than you will using the 55-200 at 3' and f4.

You definitely want this 35mm 1.8 DX. It's a steal of a lens, and often the only lens I bring with me on my DX bodies.

Sports is the hardest thing to shoot cheaply, especially if it's indoors/at night. VR won't help you there -- it doesn't un-blur moving objects, it only prevents blurring from the camera shaking in your hands. Your best bet is most likely the 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6.

As for bags, I generally shoot out of a random backpack or shoulder bag. You can get a specialized camera bag if you want to, but I've found them to be overkill for me.

And you have no other lenses besides your kit lens?

I recommend the 35mm f1.8 :)

Or the 50mm f1.8 if you want something longer (Personally, I prefer shorter lenses, because they have a wider angle. To tell what the angles are, use your kit lens, and turn it to 35 or 50)

P.s. That is a reddit amazon affiliate link, but please do not feel compelled to buy with it. Go shop around (ebay, keh, adorama, local shops, etc.) and get the cheapest deal you can find!

I've got a Nikon D3100. It's not crazy nice, but then again I don't make enough money off my photography (or use it enough) to merit a better one. I do have two other lenses, though. I've got a Nikon 18-200 f/3.5 - 5.6 which just sits in my camera bag about 90% of the time and a Nikon 35mm f/1.8 that I used to take these photos. I got it as a vacation and low-light lens and I've absolutely fallen in love with it. I chose it cause it's a bit wider than the 50mm f/1.8 which was my other choice. I've honestly been considering selling the 18-200 since it was expensive and barely gets used. The 35 is the deal of the century as far as I'm concerned with lenses.

I cannot recommend the Nikon 35mm f/1.8 enough. It's pretty much permanently mated to my most used body (the older bro of the D3k, the D40x).

an extra 100$ ??? Here in Canada an lp60 is about 120$ while an LP120 is 400$

My first TT was an Audio Technica LP-60 and I have 0 complaints on it as an entry level TT. Would recommend that and a decent pair of bookshelf speakers, doesn't cost much but is miles above a suitcase TT from Crosley.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT-LP60-Automatic-Belt-Drive-Turntable/dp/B002GYTPAE

​

​

I would say the LP120 is a good choice.

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT-LP120-USB-Direct-Drive-Professional-USB/dp/B002S1CJ2Q

I wouldn't recommend getting USB or surround sound headphones. They come in two types and both are mediocre as well as limiting. You have your headphones with multiple drivers, which reviews will time and time again say are off. Multiple smaller drivers in a circumaural headset next to year ear? Diminished sound quality as well as limited directional accuracy. The other option is to get a set that use virtual surround, but these are going to be USB only. My experienec with USB headphones tells me this is not worth it. Needing to install drivers, potential voltage dropouts from USB charge not being stable, popping (that shit HURTS and is what caused me to throw out my last USB headset), as well as not being able to plug it into more devices. The 3.5 millimeter standard is MUCH better to have here for its versatility and simplicity. If you would like USB, as another user suggested a functional reason for it (though the same could be achieved by using the front audio ports because most computers will still distinguish between headphones and speakers if you use the front ports), they do sell cheap USB adapters that often have their own virtual surround drivers. I'd recommend this over a dedicated USB headset. The lack of versatility and problems associated are worth keeping your setup modular. If you would like to have virtual surround but your soundcard/motherboard doesn't have driver support for it, then I really suggest grabbing the Razer Surround drivers for free.

Okay, wall of text is over! What SHOULD you buy? That's a crazy question. If you're looking for a headset (headphone+microphone), I'm personally a fan of the Logitech G230 which is one of the better price/performance options out there. They are not the highest quality headphones but they are sturdy (important!) and comfortable (double important!). The sound quality coming through them is more than passable. Sometimes I forget I'm not listening to speakers, even though I've been using them exclusively for months. The mic quality is mediocre and requires some boosting, so that should be known.

If you're just looking for headphones without a microphone, this is NOT the place to be asking that question. Audiophiles know headphone gear much better than gamers do, but generally don't know anything about headsets because the low-quality mics headsets use aren't of much use to audiophiles.

If you got through all that, congratulations and I hope it helps you! Just make sure to check reviews on various sites (or just Amazon, if you're lazy like me) and don't pick up anything with less than a 4/5 rating. Good luck!

You can get something like the Logitech G13 and use the joystick with your thumb for movement.

Logitech's offering is slightly less expensive.

Otherwise, remapping a cheap numpad may be your best option.

I tried this and didn't like the finished product. The fit was okay, but they didn't end up sealing nearly as well as my shure se215's

Same goes for making hard plastic molds-- I tried Instamorph.

A 3.1, or possibly even a 3.2 setup down the road, should do nicely. I would highly consider these Emptek (now RBH sound) speakers and this matching Center, along with a sub of your choice. The Bic F12 is a local favorite. This leaves some change (~$400) for a receiver and wires and whatnot, or maybe some speaker stands.

Those speakers really sound fantastic though, and they look like something you would normally find in the $1000+ range of bookshelves. Plus, they match your furniture pretty well, so thats a plus.

If you really want to have a high quality, robust solution then ditch the consumer grade stuff entirely. What I (and many others) would suggest is something like using the Ubiquiti Edgerouter Lite as your router. Then you run Ethernet to one (or more, if your house is big enough) Ubiquiti Unifi Access Point to provide wifi. These are rock solid, business class products for a great price. And the best part is if you need more coverage, you just plug in another Unifi access point and put it where you want.

As for a modem, most people on here would recommend the Motorola line, like the SB6141 or the SB6183, but those are dependent on being on your ISP's approved modem list (though most major American ISPs approve of these particular modems).

The 2.5" is also going for the same price.

The new is still $900 for prime people


https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Predator-Overclockable-Aeroblade-PH315-51-78NP/dp/B07CTHLX8C

I have that third board, got it off MassDrop last year and I love it! It's my first board and I don't have many complaints. Solid construction, good finish, no dead LEDs after a year -- the keys are eggshell white and get dirty super easily and the polished edge of the board scratches super easy, but it's a great board otherwise. 9/10 do recommend. Here's my unboxing ftc

Edit: for those looking for a backlit version off of Amazon, heres the one I ordered with orange WASD/blue lights, here is a black body blue backlit version sold by the manufacturer and heres a silver body white light version. Heres an unlit version on prime day special for $35.

Magicforce68?
It's not exactly a TKL, but it has the same functionality through the FN key.

If you want a quiet(er) typing experience, go for Browns, Blacks, or Reds. Avoid Blues. If you wanted to make your keyboard slightly quieter, you could use o-rings to dampen the bottom out sound

no he doesnt. its all about how you set up your network. i have a linksys EA3500 handling 10 devices. i have a crap router behind it handling my checkpoints farm for that IP(10 devices). i have a netgear something handling 15 devices on a different IP. the key is to separate the channels. i run mine on 1, 6 and 11. no overlap for the 3 programs i run (sb, perk and checkpoints).

however, if you are going to upgrade, may as well as upgrade to something commercial that will handle the traffic you're throwing at it:

use this as your router (this is what im about to upgrade too)

use this as your access point for your wifi devices. add more as needed

$300 routers are trash compared to something under 150 thats commercial-grade.

I'm not saying to give up. Buy this:
https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY

You get a larger SD card, the best Raspberry Pi on the market. It takes maybe 3 minutes to assemble. Comes with a USB microSD card reader so you can load RetroPie. The only thing missing would be a controller or keyboard.

Get yourself this kit

and put Retropie on it

I had plans to buy the Mini NES for my dad's birthday but when i showed him the list he was bummed at how many games we used to own that wasn't on there so it made me look for an alternative, this is probably one of the best decisions i've ever made, this thing kicks ass the only thing it fails to run well that i've tested so far is N64 where there are stuttering issues and awful fps drops but for anything pre-N64 it works like a charm

Scroll at the bottom to see a list of supported systems

RetroPie is a retro gaming system for systems like SNES, Atari, N64, Genesis, Game boy, & etc.
. Most people install it on a Raspberry Pi. It's glorious.

Here's all you need to get started. You may want to get a wireless keyboard and a game controller, too.

Hey, don't get either. Get the non Nintendo branded official sandisk https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-128GB-microSDXC-Memory-Adapter/dp/B073JYC4XM/

It's not only cheaper than both but you can go even higher in size, up to 400gb (you will probably want this eventually). It's exactly the same as the Nintendo but without the Nintendo brand I believe. I would get it over the Samsung. It's what I have and is perfect for the Switch.

When you get it, before you start using it, go to the format options on your Switch settings and make sure you format it. This will ensure it works correctly

>I’m currently using the original memory card that came with the Switch but i’m trying to upgrade for the upcoming games.

Was this with a bundle or something? The Switch doesn't normally come with a memory card.

Edit:

You mean this card? Considering that the same card without branding is $12 cheaper...

Honestly, if you can wait a couple weeks, I'd wait for Black Friday to get a 200+ GB card for cheap.

This or this?

It looks like amazon matched (well, beat by a penny). Slightly different mfr#: B&H # SAMZN6E1T0BW MFR # MZ-N6E1T0BW, amazon #MZ-76E1T0B/AM.

I am on the lookout for a damn fine deal on a quality 2TB SSD.

Ah. And a good question none the less. No it doesn't. Which I didn't even know about. So I actually just went ahead and cancelled my eBay order and ordered it on Amazon for $109.99 and got far cry 4, which steam has listed at $59.99 all for $109.99 with free shipping.

The far cry 4 deal only applies to Samsung 840 EVO 250 GB and above I believe. After ctrl + f for far cry, it comes up on specials and promotions for the 250 but not the smaller one.

Link for those who are lazy: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-250GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE250BW/dp/B00E3W1726/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417413707&sr=8-1&keywords=samsung+evo+840

The Samsung 840 EVO provides good capacity, reliability and speed for the money. At $140 for 256GB of storage, it also fits into your budget while supporting SATA III.

Earplugs are great. In ear monitors are great as well.
https://www.amazon.com/Shure-SE215-K-Isolating-Earphones-MicroDriver/dp/B004PNZFZ8/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1478191929&sr=1-1&keywords=shure+se215

http://www.amazon.com/Shure-SE215-K-Sound-Monitor-Black/dp/B004PNZFZ8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1373433843&sr=8-2&keywords=shure+iem

Amazon Smile link

Definitely a Screen Protector

A Travelling Case would be nice.

I also added Dr Scholls Moleskin to the front of my dock to reduce the risk of scratching the screen protector. (Two small strips on the parts inside the dock that are raised.)

A Memory Card also helps for the digital only games.

What color Switch did you get? I got the grey switch then bought a pair of Red Joycons and another pair of Blue Joycons. So in total I have a grey, red, and blue L Joycon and a grey, red, and blue R Joycon.

If you got the grey switch and then buy the [two color Joycon packs] (https://www.amazon.com/Nintendo-Switch-Joy-Con-Neon-Neon-Blue/dp/B01N6QJ58Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493753597&sr=8-2&keywords=blue+joycons) then you won't be able to get one of each color for L/R without over paying. This is because the [two color Joycon packs] (https://www.amazon.com/Nintendo-Switch-Joy-Con-Neon-Neon-Blue/dp/B01N6QJ58Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493753597&sr=8-2&keywords=blue+joycons) are always Red L and Blue R.

If you bought a neon switch, then buy the [two color Joycon pack] (https://www.amazon.com/Nintendo-Switch-Joy-Con-Neon-Neon-Blue/dp/B01N6QJ58Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493753597&sr=8-2&keywords=blue+joycons) and a pair of Grey Joycons for all combinations.

Also, don't buy Joycons on Amazon, they are stupid expensive right now.

I don't have a pro controller yet, but people seem to love it.

Games:

Zelda = Must Buy

Mario Kart 8 Deluxe = Must Buy

1-2 Switch = Great for parties/friends

Snipperclips = Great for people who don't play games often (girlfriends/parents/kids). Secret here is to not explain how to play/what to do and let them have fun and try to figure out the puzzles on their own. Act like a support character and you'll have a blast watching them.

Binding of Isaac = I love this game, but put countless hours on the PC version. Mature themes

Super Bomberman R = Classic mode with easy CPUs is fun for roommates. I haven't played through the adventure mode yet.

Wonderboy = Cute/Fun side scroller.

Has Been Heroes = I don't have this yet, apparently very difficult.


Other notes:

I started collecting amiibos after getting a switch (Be very careful, it's easy to get addicted and drop a ton of money here).

I got a Joycon charging dock since the only way to charge extra pairs of Joycons without the Joycon charging dockis to rotate them in and out of the switch while it charges/docked.

Let me know if you have any other questions!

PS I love the Switch so much. It's definitely my favorite console ever.

1. Best USB Hub

Inateck 3 Ports USB 3.0 Hub and RJ45 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Hub

2. Best Mouse

Logitech MX Anywhere 2 Wireless Mobile Mouse

3. Best MicroSD

SanDisk Ultra 128GB microSDXC UHS-I Card

4. Best Value Sleeve

AmazonBasics 11.6-Inch Laptop Sleeve

Why don't you get the Sandisk Micro SD card of the same capacity?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010Q57S62/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm sure it works fine?

Edit: Yeah as one of the comments pointed out , it is cheaper too.

If you want a affordable gigabit setup with Ubiquiti just run this setup.

• USG $110
  
• Unifi AP AC Lite $80
  
• TP-Link 8 Port Unmanaged Switch $25
  
• 1000' cat 5e $85
  
• 24 port patch panel $19
  
  If you don't have a gigabit connection you can swap out the USG for an ER-X which will knock off $50 but if you have the $50 to spend I would suggest staying with the USG so all your managed products are on the Unifi admin interface. You can also save some money by going with 500' of cat 5e if you don't need the full 1k foot spool.

I'd go with Ubiquiti products. Something like a Edgeroute X SFP and a Unifi AC lite.

I've got the slightly older Unifi AP and it's bulletproof. And with the X SFP you won't need the power injector for the AC lite. I setup the AC lite for a friend and it's also very solid, easy to use product.

Check out /r/Ubiquiti

$1200 on a build with an APU? Alarm bells should be ringing.

Edit: Here. This is a much better use of your money

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $212.99 @ NCIX US
CPU Cooler | Enermax Liqtech 120X 111.0 CFM Ball Bearing Liquid CPU Cooler | $59.99 @ NCIX US
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z97N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard | $109.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $64.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial M500 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $79.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB ACX 2.0 Video Card | $329.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case | $49.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Cooler Master VSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $79.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Philips 298P4QJEB/27 60Hz 29.0" Monitor |-
Keyboard | ROCCAT Ryos MK Wired Gaming Keyboard | $69.99 @ NCIX US
Mouse | ROCCAT Kone XTD Wired Laser Mouse | $73.16 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1131.07
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-31 12:32 EST-0500 |

I've dropped the headset - buy a proper pair of audiophile grade headphones. Ask /r/headphones if you want more advice but something like these and an antlion modmic is so much better than a headset, it's not even funny.

• 1. The best headset is not a headset at all. A good pair of headphones and a good microphone is much better than any headset out there. I'd recommend something like a pair of Audio Technicha ATH-AD700X (or the 700s basically the same thing, just different colors) As for a mic, the best option is the Mod Mic 4.0, a Zalman ZM Mic 1, or a USB Mic. If you must get a headset, the Hyper X Cloud is the best option, though there are a few nice Sennheiser options.
     
     
• 2. Horror games are not my expertise, but I'll find some that I've heard are good:
     
     
• Amnesia Dark Descent
  
  
• Alien Isolation
  
  
• And from other sources:
  
  http://www.pcgamer.com/best-horror-games-pc/
  
  http://www.rockpapershotgun.com/2015/07/27/best-horror-games/
  
  http://www.pcworld.com/article/2838314/software-games/15-terrifying-pc-horror-games-to-play-with-the-lights-off.html
  
  
  

1. Get the RAM from OWC
   
   
2. For the SSD, get a samsung 840 EVO. They are one of the best deals around. http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-EVO-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7TE250BW/dp/B00E3W1726/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405941311&sr=8-1&keywords=samsung+840+EVO (250GB for $140)
   
   
3. you need to install OS X on the new drive. Before changing anything, be sure to download a copy of OS X, and make a bootable flash drive. Instructions here: http://www.macworld.com/article/2056561/how-to-make-a-bootable-mavericks-install-drive.html
   
   
4. Caveats: You'll need to enable TRIM on the SSD. This is easy. Use TRIM Enabler (Free) http://www.cindori.org/software/trimenabler/
   
   
5. Step By Step: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VnksSnLAibc
   
   
6. Replacement batteries can be bought at the Apple store.

It's a pretty normal price on Amazon. From its price history, it didn't stay at 90$ for long.

Not OP but mine is mounted the same way here you go.

This one seems okay

I figured out my maximum budget ($100) and then got mine based on the well-reviewed ones on Amazon. At the time, I got this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Rexing-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_sims?ie=UTF8

Still happy with it (it's been a little under 2 years now).

I bought this one and it works great. Taking the time to hardwire it into your fuse box so it turns on and off with your car is worth the slightly extra time and effort.

I got the Rexing V1, it's pretty awesome.

Ive been using this one for nearly 3 years now. There are two newer models one that does 4K and another with a rear cam.
I did have a freezing issue at first but that went away when I swapped with a different sd card. I like how it attaches with double sided tape instead of a cheap clip that will break after you hit your third pothole.
/r/dashcam is a great resource as well.

Yeah, the tech in dash cams is minimal by today's standards and $100 ones with wide angle lens are more than sufficient for everyone

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X528FNE

Probably possible. Not sure if it would be worth it. A dash cam with motion detection and an additional battery might be enough to ease you worries. I had one installed and it makes me feel a little better.

These were taken from https://www.reddit.com/r/Dashcam/

Best cam recommendations

Best value:

• A119 v3 ($110-120 USD)
  
• B1W ($47-55 USD)
  
• Street Guardian SGGCX2 (Includes memory card and CPL filter) ($160-290 USD)
  
  Best value Dual cams:
  
  
• A129 ($150-170 USD)
  
• A129 Pro Duo 4K ($250 USD)
  
• Thinkware FA200 2CH WiFi ($170-180 USD)
  
  Budget dash cams:
  
  
• Yi Dash cam ($50 USD)
  
• Rexing V1 ($100 USD) - Lipo battery
  
• Anker Roav S1 ($90 USD)
  
• Anker ROAV C1 ($73 USD)
  
• AUKEY ($70 USD)
  
• YI Nightscape Dash Cam ($65 USD)
  
  Budget Dual Cams:
  
  
• Rexing V1P Pro Dual ($200 USD)
  
• Aukey DR02D ($130 USD)
  
• Mini 0906 ($120 USD)
  
  Dual Cams:
  
  
• BlackSys CH-300 2CH ($290 USD)
  
• Street Guardian SG9663DCPRO ($260-360 USD)
  
• BlackVue DR900S 2CH (4K) ($430-591 USD)
  
• Thinkware Q800PRO 2K QHD ($380-490 USD)

Yep that's what it is. Rexing V1 Car Dash Cam 2.4" LCD FHD 1080p

I got it because when I'm driving around campus area there are pedestrians absolutely everywhere and it's always beneficial to have video proof if something happens.

Edit- Dash cams are way more useful if you can manage to wire the 12v power plug into a "switched" or "ignition switched" power. Basically you turn your car on and then the dash cam starts up automatically because it receives power. It will then run off its battery for about 5 seconds or so after power is killed. One example would be splicing into a power sunroof wire. That wire will only have power on it when the car is running and on.

The workaround to that is having to either run it off battery or manually turn it on every time and you don't want to have to do that.

Some outlets on a vehicle will be labeled if they are battery or ignition power.

I recommend this rexing dashcam here is an accident I filmed a week after I installed it. video

Keep in mind that the video was uploaded in 720p and youtube reduces the quality. The source file is clear as day.

I have this one, can share photos/video if requested. If I had to buy a new one it would probably be this one.

This video from Flex your Rights is pretty good. I used tips from the first section of it to get out of two speeding tickets.

The second section covers how to deal with police when they interact with you on the street and the third covers when they come to your home. Flex Your Rights has other good videos with more example situations.

It's also a good idea to invest in a dashcam, so conversations during a traffic stop can be recorded. A cop's word will trump a private citizen's, but it won't trump an audio recording. I have a Rexing V1, but have heard good things about the G1W, which is much cheaper.

I hope that helped.

I recommend the Rexing V1. Made life so much easier when my wife was sideswiped. Make sure to get a MicroSD card too.

Rexing V1 Car Dash Cam 2.4" LCD FHD 1080p 170 Degree Wide Angle Dashboard Camera Recorder with Sony Exmor Video Sensor, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CZ8TAb96FEHAV

This is my video. Glad to hear about this sub, didn't know it existed! For anyone interested, I am recording on a Rexing V1 driving in Pennsylvania. The driver's brakes were fine, he just wasn't paying attention. I was lucky enough to be checking my rearview at the right time. I didn't move further into the right lane because I was thinking that there may be someone there. Thinking back, I probably should have just hauled ass into the right lane anyways vs risk the semi driver not being that far over to the left and catching me between him and the dumb truck in front of me. My Corolla would not have fared well.

This is the one I use. There are plenty of cheaper ones out there but I decided to go with this one because of:

• Quality (night vision isn't the best, see some of my night time videos)
  
• Price
  
• Loop recording
  
• Auto-on
  
  If I buy another for my other vehicle then I'll probably spend a little more for something with better night quality.

My picks...

Micro SD: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q57S62/

Case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MS7AI9G/

These are for Micro SD cards, note that it has a hindge in the left so there should be 2 spots under it. With this card holder setup + the Switch itself one could have:

5 x 128 GB Micro SD Cards for a total of 640 GB for 200 Dollars.

or

5x 200 GB Micro SD card for a total of 1000 GB for 325 dollars.


or

Any combination of Micro SD cards that meet your specific storage demands.

Note: 128 GB is the top capacity validated according to rumors. however like in the 3ds the Switch likely supports bigger SD cards. Also the prices of flash media are going down so this will be cheaper in the future. Furthermore I didn't include 256 GB Micro SD cards because I didn't find any with a reasonable price.

And Amazon.

Edit: aaaaaaaaand it's gone

It's the same price on Amazon too, though.

I've been going overboard with accessories. Here's what I picked up so far:

Glass screen protector - Just in case.

128GB microSD card - I rarely buy physical games

Pro Controller - I love it. So comfortable.

PowerA Hybrid Case - I basically use this as a stand for my Switch when I'm on the go.

JDeal portable dock - It works. Make sure to follow the instructions. Works with my Nexus5x 5v 3A portable charger.

[Retractable HDMI cable] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019J96PSI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Hestia case - The Switch with the PowerA Hybrid Case, portable dock, portable USB-C charger, and retractable HDMI cable all fit in this.

USB 3.0 LAN Adapter - Faster speeds when on the official dock.


Gooseneck tablet holder - Ultimate comfort. Play while in bed.

Magic NS Wireless Adapter - I had originally bought this so I could use my PS4 controller. This was before I picked up the Pro Controller. It works. There was a recent firmware update that gives gyro support for PS4 controllers and it works well with Splatoon 2.

On the way:


Mumba case - For better comfort/protection while playing in handheld mode.

https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDXC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-128G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q57S62/ref=sr_1_10?m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&s=warehouse-deals&ie=UTF8&qid=1469811987&sr=1-10


128 GB for 25 bucks! What a time to be alive!!!!

Shure 215

It is way over your budget after taxes $146 CAD. But that is the best I could find for what is durable and has replaceable cords for when they wear out. I have only read good things about it on BIFL.

I do not own a pair but I hope to soon when I have the funds.

Shure SE215's. Block out the noise, allow's you to keep volumes low and save your hearing.

https://www.amazon.com/Shure-SE215-K-Isolating-Earphones-MicroDriver/dp/B004PNZFZ8

Is an amp needed in that price?
Look into either of thede speakers:
Dayton Audio B652 6-1/2-Inch 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002RMPHMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_B3ekzbXR3T0AD

Micca MB42 Bookshelf Speakers With 4-Inch Carbon Fiber Woofer and Silk Dome Tweeter (Black, Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009IUIV4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_E4ekzb11C5YZJ

With this amp:

Lepy LP-2024A+ Hi-Fi Audio Amplifier Stereo Power Amplifier Car Amplifier with Power Supply, 3A Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_u5ekzbPS4WWVE


That's about as good of a low budget system as possible, while still being a foray into hobby/enthusiast audio equipment. Unless you want to look into used stuff. Going use can get you a really good set up for price but take more work to find but is hard to recommend.

Buy a U-Turn Basic, Micca MB42 speakers, Lepai amp, Pyle pre amp and some cheap speaker wire

It's over your budget but this is about as cheap as you can get while still getting new high quality gear.

Ok, how about this....
http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/pionvsx530k/pioneer-vsx-530-k-5.1-ch-x-80-watts-bluetooth-a/v-receiver/1.html

Cheapest new AVR youll find= 120$

2 sets of these. Used, very good condition = 70$
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B009IUIV4A/ref=sr_1_1_olp?ie=UTF8&qid=1496712733&sr=8-1&keywords=mb42

1 of these. Used very good condition = 35$
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00HH2GINM/ref=sr_1_3_olp?ie=UTF8&qid=1496712733&sr=8-3&keywords=mb42

And 1 of these = 110$ or the sub-1000 for 10$ more
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-SUB-800-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B0063NU30K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496712905&sr=8-1&keywords=dayton+sub+800

Thats about as good as youll get for 350 for 5.1 that wont sound like total garbage. You can also look at used, but thats a non guaranteed crapshoot.

There aren't a ton of options at that size that are passive, it's a small market obviously and it seems like it's either super cheap and bad and/or outrageously expensive.

Cambridge Audio SX50 sound great and are smaller than average bookshelves, might still be too big.

They also make the Minx Min 22, this one I haven't heard though but it's definitely the right size and under budget.

Monitor Audio makes little cube speakers but they're somehow almost $400, and more for satellite surround use.

Super budget and also a little bigger would be the Micca MB42's for $60

​

If you feel like hunting around audiogon/craigslist/usaudiomart you might be able to find something better. The PSB Alpha LR1 was great. Realistic Minimus 7's are legendary and with a little tweak to the crossover are surprisingly great.

​

Oh definitely, I'm surprised how good sound some CRTs have, the best definitely sound better than my $150 Panasonic Sounbar. But even $60 speakers like this with a $30-60 mini amp would sound better let alone mid-range or high-end sound systems.

I'd definitely recommend making a post on /r/BuildAPC. The build looks nice but I'd definitely recommend getting at least a 1TB HDD for about $50. Liquid CPU cooling is overkill for you since the CPU you chose can't be overclocked. A simple $20 cooler will keep it sub 60C for most workloads.

Also, I'd pay an extra $10 for this Samsung 840 250GB SSD instead. Speeds ar emuch better, plus it comes with a download code for Far Cry 4.

Good starter bookshelf speakers for people who want to get into high-fidelity audio.

NoAudiophile review + MB42X DSP corrections:
http://noaudiophile.com/Micca_MB42x_Bookshelf_Speakers/

Zeos (/r/Zeos) review: https://youtu.be/tCCNXl4I5U4

SlickDeals discussion on this deal: https://slickdeals.net/f/10208856-micca-bookshelf-speakers-pair-mb-42-51-or-mb42x-76-50-free-s-h

As /u/tielknight mentioned, the Micca MB42 is also discounted ($50.99 with the 'clipped' 15% off coupon - original price is $59.99): https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009IUIV4A?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&s=aht

The MB42X has a crossover, while the MB42 doesn't (can be added on but you'd need to buy and install a separate upgrade).

I've used many headphones/headsets for online/competitive shooters: AKG K52, AKG Q701, Audio-Technica ATH-AD700x, Beyerdynamic DT990 (600Ω), HiFiMan HE-400i (the revision), HiFiMan HE-500, HyperX Cloud, Koss Porta Pro, Monoprice Monlith M1060, Philips Fidelio X2, Philips SHP9500, Sennheiser HD598, Sennheiser HD700, Sennheiser HD800, Superlux HD662 EVO, Superlux HD668B, Superlux HD669, Superlux HD681 EVO, Tritton Pro+ and Turtle Beach Ear Force XP Seven, and AD700x is the one I recommend regardless of budget unless people have other preferences. Games top out very early, and around the $100 mark, diminishing returns set in hard.

There are three sonic properties that determine the performance of headphones/headsets for online/competitive shooters: soundstage, imaging and (instrument) separation.

Soundstage is produced by the headphone, not the game. It's perceived space and environment of sound. A small soundstage makes the environment around you sound confined or boxed in. With a large soundstage, the environment sounds much more open, spatial and natural. You probably have to experience it yourself to understand it.

Imaging is inherent to the audio content. It's how accurately the locations of sounds/objects are reproduced.

Soundstage and imaging are generally best achieved with open-back or semi-open-back headphones, which means the headphones have cups with grills/perforations/openings that allow sound to freely pass through, unlike closed-back headphones that have cups with solid shells which isolate sound from passing through to some extent. Soundstage and imaging constitute positional audio. You could say they are the stereo equivalent of virtual surround sound. I don't think stereo, no matter how large it is, sounds fully three-dimensional as virtual surround sound at all times. Dialogues and very loud sounds like tanks, jets, trains, etc. near you tend to sound very intimate and dominate in either ear when you don't face them. Virtual surround sound has its drawbacks too: it compresses and degrades the sound quality. I find it most noticeable with rain, waterfalls and splashing water; they sound akin to white and pink noise. Subtle details become faint or not audible. When headphones already have decent soundstage, imaging and separation, I find that virtual surround sound diffuses the positional audio and the ability to pick up and locate/track audio cues.

Virtual Surround sound varies a lot from processor to processor (CMSS-3D, Dolby Headphone, SBX, etc.) How you perceive it compared to stereo also depends on the soundstage, imaging and separation of the headphone, and how games are mixed. I recommend using a headphone with a large soundstage and great imaging and separation, like AD700x, before deciding on virtual surround sound. If you absolutely want virtual surround sound, then I strongly recommend SBX from Creative, especially over Dolby Headphone.

Separation is how you discern individual sounds from a range of overlapping sounds. This is only important in games that are competitive.

Attach an Antlion ModMic 4 and you have a headset. Alternative mics: Massdrop Minimic, Neewer, Sony ECMCS3, Zalman ZM-Mic1, Blue Snowball, Samson Go

If AD700x costs too much, then I recommend HD668B. Other open-back options that are well-regarded in the audio enthusiast community are Audio-Technica ATH-AD500x, Sennheiser HD558/HD579 and Status Audio OB-1. I strongly advise against HyperX Cloud if you don't need sound isolation. For closed-back, I recommend AKG K52, Superlux HD662 EVO and especially Superlux HD669 over the Cloud. Status Audio CB-1 is another well-regarded option, which is compatible with the V-MODA BoomPro mic.

The biggest WTF for me concerning the Ursa is the use of those ridiculously expensive CFast cards. With that 17 pound behemoth of a camera, they couldn't figure out a way to squeeze in an SSD slot?

This 250 GB SSD's dimensions are:

> Product Dimensions: 3.9 x 0.3 x 2.8 inches ; 1.9 ounces

That's roughly the size and weight of a deck of playing cards. That's nothing. It's $129.

The price for a 256 GB Cfast card? $1,414.55. Four of those memory cards is as expensive as the damn camera!

• Get an SSD, ASAP. Single best upgrade you can make to ANY PC - 250GB Samsung 840 Evo is $75 on Amazon, the 850 Evo is $90. If you want 500GB, you'll pay about $150 for the 850 EVO, 840 EVO doesn't have the 500GB available (Amazon shows it at $272 for a 500GB?! I think it's no longer produced)
  
  
• Max out your RAM. Your MoBo can support 32GB of RAM -- 16GB should do you plenty of good. $67 on NewEgg
  
  
• So far that's only $142 of your $350. That leaves you with $208 for a nice GPU. I have a GeForce GTX 750Ti that does great, and I'm not a gamer at all, so I really only bought it in case I decide to game later on (Dark Souls 3 will apparently run perfectly on my machine, which makes me very happy). You can get a GTX 950 or 960 under that price limit, both are mid to high tier graphics cards (980 is the highest in the series, atm [correct me if I'm wrong I don't know shit about gaming GPU's])
  
  
• If you don't want to spend $200 on a GPU, or if you can up your budget to $400, you can get both a really nice GPU and a better motherboard that supports DDR4 RAM, which of course increases the cost of the RAM, but it's all about future proofing.
  
  TL;DR: For the amount of your budget, buy the SSD and RAM I recommended. Either spend $200 on a GPU or spend $150 on a mid-tier GPU, up your budget to $400 and get a better MoBo for future upgrades. Good luck!
  
  Edit -- I just saw you have an AMD CPU. I've heard that nVidia & Intel work better together, and AMD works best with the other cards. Adjust accordingly.

But then amazon gets the extra. Instead go to this link and donate to a charity:

http://smile.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-SDSDQUAN-200G-G4A/dp/B00V62XBQQ/

Nand technology is very different from how a hdd operates. The hdd actually houses mechanical parts and a spinning disk. If you look how ssd hdd is half the size of a standard hdd. It also uses nand technology. The person who created that meme obviously never came across this .

Edit: to further answer your question, the nand cells they store data on are stacked on each other in a tiny space and the rest of the card is the interface to interact with peripherals. Not only are they shrinking in size, but the read/write speeds are increasing.

dont buy it off ebay, buy direct from a store or amazon, sandisk are best and then samsung. also walmart or best buy wil match amazon. heres what i bought
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDXC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-128G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q57S62/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491399875&sr=8-1&keywords=128gb+micro

Currently right now on Amazon 128GB card for $32.

No ref code: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010Q57S62

If you're buying your own modem, you might as well get a DOCSIS 3.1 modem - Not that the 3.0 won't support your speed, but to future proof yourself. The Motorola version is this:

https://www.amazon.com/MOTOROLA-Approved-Comcast-Gigablast-MB8600/dp/B0723599RQ/ref=sr_1_7?crid=MN7K7BCN9JT8&keywords=docsis+3.1+modem&qid=1566855330&s=electronics&sprefix=docsis+3.1%2Celectronics%2C175&sr=1-7

As for a WiFi router, the Nighthawk series is Netgears top of the line, so place it in the middle most part of your house on a shelf or somewhere up high and you should get pretty decent coverage.

Since you own the home, you could go all out and do a couple of Ethernet runs in the ceiling and mount two (or more) wireless access points where you need a little more coverage.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ubiquiti+unifi+apac+lite&qid=1566855646&s=electronics&sr=1-3

Sounds like you are looking for Ubiquiti and a UniFi cloud controller.

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-System-UAP-AC-LITE-US/dp/B015PR20GY/

https://help.ubnt.com/hc/en-us/articles/209376117-UniFi-Install-a-UniFi-Cloud-Controller-on-Amazon-Web-Services

It does everything you're asking and can be fully managed through a web interface without connecting to the clients network

>I've considered trying to run an Ethernet cable to their side and then adding a repeater (is that the right name?)

Repeaters are trash. Don't bother.

>Also, was thinking it might work to put the router in the center of the attic?

Location of the router doesn't matter, just the access point.

How to get decent wireless coverage on both sides of a double? Stop using consumer grade all=in-one garbage. Get a dedicated access point (AP) that you can mount on a wall or ceiling and your coverage will be much, much better. Personally I use the UniFi line of access points from Uniquiti. UniFi AC Pro for $150, UniFi AC Lite for $78. technically you need to install the controller software someplace to do initial configuration, but that software doesn't have to run 24x7 (unless you're a dick and want to do a captive portal to make your neighbors log in). The UniFi line is Power over Ethernet (PoE) as well (with an injector) so you only have to run one cable to the device. Additionally if you need you can add an additional access point and have handoff between the devices.

The AP doesn't have to be from UniFi. I just suggest them becasue the configuration is easy. The iPhone app makes pairing the AP to a controller stupid simple as well. I used an entry-level Cisco Meraki AP for three years before replacing it. You could get one for free by watching a webinar and got a three year license. UniFi doesn't have licensing.

You can use any COX approved cable modem and router with an external access point. If your router has an AP built in just turn that off.

Since you are looking to share with your neighbors you may want to look at the "unlimited" data package. that is an extra $50 USD month. If you have multiple TVs all streaming content it adds up fast. Between the neighbors and myself we average 3 TB a month. I can always tell when the COX CSR looks at data usage.

Go with a larger 12", the BIC America F12 for $200.

Next step up is the Bic Acoustech PL-200 II for $300.

The better HSU or Rythmik subwoofers start around $550 for a 12".

I have been shooting on Nikon for a while now. The D7000 is a solid camera. Going from my old D80 to the D7000 it was like stepping into the future. The full RGB meter and the 6400 ISO range make for some amazing shots.

Now as for lens that largely depends on your budget.

• The standard starter 50mm f/1.8 $219.00
  
  The 50mm will give you razor sharp images work in low light and is a great lens to learn on. If you ever move to a FX (full frame) camera is will work on there as well. On your crop camera it will be 50mm x 1.5 (crop factor) = 75mm lens. This is a little long for some folks which leads to our next lens.
  
  
• Great starter just for DX Cameras 35mm f/1.8 $196.95
  
  The 35 is a DX lens (build just for your crop camera so it won't work well on a FX camera) but its a great place to start. This lens is a "normal" lens. Meaning it is close to what your eye sees. Its cheap and has many of the qualities of the 50mm.
  
  
• If you have some money to burn the Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 $594.00
  
  I just picked up this Sigma a few days ago from Amazon and I can confirm its sharp as a tack. I honestly like this lens better than the 17-55 Nikon which is 1500 ish dollars. It has optical stabilization and is lighter than the hulking Nikon lens.
  
  I have stayed away from lenses with, in my opinion, crappy f-stops. You can find cheaper lens out there but you will suffer from high f stops like 5.6 which will kill your ability to shoot in low light, and to isolate your subject and have real control over your depth of field. These lenses are great place to start and they will stay in your camera bag for years to come. There are more lenses out there from zooms to telephoto to macro if you give us some idea of what you want to shoot then we can help recommend a more specialized lens. Happy shooting.
  

For a D3300, I would not want a 85mm at my "do everything" lens. I would have gone with a 35mm. If you are reading guides that talk about portrait shooting with and 85mm prime, they are talking about on a full frame camera. A 50mm will be the equivalent of a 85mm on your D3300. If that is what you are really looking for I would get the https://amzn.com/B01E56NBH8 , And I would keep the 35mm as your equivalent to a "nifty" fifty. It will be your general walk around lens. However, you could always return what you got wrong, and get the cheaper 35mm 1.8 - https://amzn.com/B001S2PPT0 . I would much rather have a 50mm and a 35mm prime than one 85mm prime, especially since I could get both cheaper than the one lens.

Amazon is running a special on the LP120 right now. You'd get MUCH more mileage out of that deck!

I have a TT with a MP3 converter option and honestly I've never used it. When I buy a record I just go find the download from the pirates bay. I wish I just went to my local vintage furniture store and got a record player from there, it would of been half the price and probably better. I wish I just invested in something like this http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT-LP120-USB-Direct-Drive-Professional-Turntable/dp/B002S1CJ2Q/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1361377274&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=B002S1CJ2Q

WASD or ESDF does not make much difference when you're used to it.

Also, since you're using them as controls and not typing letters, the touch-typist habits are not relevant.

Furthermore, many gamers are not using a full keyboard anymore...

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE/

IMO, the DT990 is much better for games. The wide soundstage (even though it has its uses in competitive gaming) is pretty awesome to have to play games with. It has that 'wider' 3D effect. It also slightly exaggerated lows and highs so you get more out of the sub-bass and it has a fun rumbling effect. (Granted, it isn't overwhelming and even for music if it wasn't meant to be prominent, the bass isn't obnoxious.)

The DT880 is 'better' for music. It's more neutral and if you're really wanting it for music it's the better choice. (Assuming you like an accurate, clinical sound.) The soundstage is different since it's only semi-open and isn't as wide.

And if you want more clamp force, look into the 'Pro' models. They have better clamp force from what other people have reported. (Which both the 880 and 990's pros are 250 ohm) Plus, if you can get them on Amazon, they're around $150.

Since they're only 250 ohm, you can drive them with your computer. My Nexus 5 can also drive them just fine. There is some very very very subtle distortion when you run them unamped. (Only for certain frequencies, generally vocals at some peaks and some sub-bass) It also depends on how well a song is mixed. I haven't noticed it in a game yet.

Here are the specs:

Type|Item|
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4820K 3.7GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler | Corsair H105
Thermal Compound | Prolimatech PK-1 5g Thermal Paste
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-X79-UP4 ATX LGA2011 Motherboard
Memory| Corsair Dominator Platinum 2133MT/s C9 4x 4gb
Storage | SAMSUNG 840 EVO 250GB
Storage | SAMSUNG 840 EVO 250GB
Case | Corsair Graphite 760T in White
Power Supply | Corsair RM1000 80+ Gold
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 Professional (64-bit)
Monitor | Asus PB278Q 27" 2560x1440 PLS
Monitor | Asus PB238Q 23.0" Monitor
Keyboard|Filco Ninja Majestouch-2 w/MX browns
Keyboard | Keycool 84 (white body) w/MX black
Keyboard | KBT Pure Pro 60% w/MX blues
Keyboard|KBT Pure 60% w/MX reds and blue LEDs
Keyboard|Leopold FC660M (gray keycaps) w/MX greens
Keyboard| KBT Pure 60% w/MX whites
Mouse | Mionix Naos 5000 Wired Laser Mouse
Video Card| XFX 290 DD Black edition
Video Card| XFX 290 DD Black edition
Headphones| AKG K702
Headphones| Beyerdynamic DT990 Pro 250Ohm
Headphones | Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 250Ohm
Headphone stand| Woo Audio HPS-HB
Headphone stand| Just Mobile Aluminum
Microphone|Samson Meteor Studio Mic
DAC| Schiit Modi
AMP|Schiit Magni
Speakers|JBL LSR305 5-inch Two-Way Pair
Fan| 3x Corsair SP120 Quiet edition PWM
Fan| 3x Corsair AF140 Quiet edition
Router|Netgear AC1750 R6300v2
Modem|Motorola SB6141 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem
Custom Cables|Made by /u/Lavins

Big thanks to Corsair for sponsoring most of this rig.

Here's the review of the case I released a couple of days ago

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT-LP120-USB-Direct-Drive-Professional-Turntable/dp/B002S1CJ2Q/ref=lp_3003611_1_3?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1479702477&sr=1-3

http://www.project-audio.com/main.php?prod=essential2&cat=turntables&lang=en

Either of those would be fine. I have the former.

I wouldnt recommed a 2 in 1 set. this is the one that I would reccommend. If you are serious about starting a collection this would be the safest turntable to buy. I know that it is expensive, but collecting vinyl's is a pretty expensive hobby. This turntable has an aux input so I am sure that you have a speaker in the house somewhere that you could plug it into.

Edit: For the speakers, you could literally buy a pair of computer speakers with a sub and that would work really well.

• Price History
  
• Barcode: 041114046089

http://www.amazon.com/Shure-SE215-K-Sound-Monitor-Black/dp/B004PNZFZ8 GET THESE NOW IF YOUR BUDGET ALLOWS IT. Hands down the best earphones I have used for exercise and I have experimented with many.

What price range? I personally have these and love em.

Otherwise, just look at this guide, go to your price range, and look for IEMs with a B next to their name.

Shure SE215 In-Ear monitors, ran me under $100 off of amazon, not bulky at all. I use them everyday, but they are also great for noise cancelling during drumming.
http://www.amazon.com/Shure-SE215-K-Isolating-Earphones-MicroDriver/dp/B004PNZFZ8/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1450858577&sr=1-1&keywords=shure+se215

Get this on amazon, it costs $8:

usb soundcard

it works with mac/pc, and requires no drivers. It works out of the box and allows a 2nd input. This is the cheapest possible way to add a headphone channel to preview tracks.

Also, get this mixtrack, it costs $88 and works identically:

Numark mixtrack

You are limited by the software, why buy a more expensive controller when you can get last year's for $88? It works just as effectively and the USB soundcard saves you from buying the pro version, which is marked up double compared to the regular mixtrack.

You could get him a really cool gaming keypad. Something meant for mmo's like the logitech g13 or the Razer Tartarus

Razer also has a more expensive one called the orbweaver

You could also look into getting something like a Logitech G13 or Razer Tartarus. They've got fully programmable buttons and a D-pad/Joystick. Might help out in your case.

I own one of these and use it in conjunction with my G13. Never looked back.

This was my exact budget! I ended up going with the Denon AVR-S510BT from Accessories4Less as my receiver. I got it for $130 (normally around ~$250). It can carry a 4k/HDCP2.2 signal and also has two subwoofer outs so I can upgrade to two subs and I will be using this for years in the future. Also has 5 channels so I can easily add a center/surrounds in the near future.

As for speakers, I went with Pioneer's Andrew Jones SP-FS52. I got them for $180 for the pair which is a steal because on Amazon they are going for $260 for the pair! They sound amazing and my receiver has no problem driving them.

And for the sub, I went with the trusty budget [BIC America F12](BIC America F12 12-Inch 475-Watt Front Firing Powered Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015A8Y5M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oTmTyb9EG6AE1) which BUMPS, and is going for about $215 on Amazon at the moment. When placed right, this thing can hit the frequencies that makes your chest rumble and without being too loud.

Overall I spent exactly $525 (right in your budget!) and got myself an amazing sounding system to watch TV and movies, and the best part is there's so much room to upgrade! I can upgrade from 2.1 to 5.2 when I feel, and since the receiver carries 4k, I won't have to upgrade for a while.

Hope this helps!

So I am gonna try to answer your actual question, though PLEASE heed the advice of upgrading your system.

I looked at the AVR you have, and you will 100% without a doubt NEVER get 5.1 input to that device. It simply does not have an interface to accept any type of digital audio input.
So unfortunately it just isn't gonna happen in any way shape or form. No adapter, device, or otherwise will make it happen.

-----

Now that we have that cleared up, if you want 5.1, you do have options.
Your speakers look to be 6 Ohms, so you need an AVR that can support 6 Ohms, and you can use the exist speakers. Though you will need a subwoofer to replace the proprietary stuff.

I personally like my onkyo AVR, it has worked extremely well for me. This one is the upgraded model that supports Dolby Atmos, DTS:X, 4K, HDR10, and Dolby Vision.
So this will do so much more then your current setup.
https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX-NR676-Channel-Network-Receiver/dp/B06XTYXH9M/

Just that single purchase alone will get you 90% of the way to a decent setup.
Combine that with something like a BIC F12, and you have a kicking theater setup that will honestly rival that of your actual local theater.
https://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-F12-475-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0015A8Y5M/

http://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-F12-475-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0015A8Y5M

Probably nicer than your speakers.

On sale for $17.48 right now. Great deal....

SanDisk Ultra 128GB microSDXC UHS-I card with Adapter -  100MB/s U1 A1 - SDSQUAR-128G-GN6MA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eq-RCbWZGB8ZP

I'm building a new high end pc from the ground up. Should I be taking advantage of any of these sales? I feel like the mouse and power supply are automatic purchases but I'm a newbie so I wanted to see if I can get any help here first. Sorry if this is filling up the discussion post.

SSD

I read that the crucial's aren't good because once you reach 75% capacity it dramatically slows your pc down? Also, don't know if external SSDs are recommended but should I bite on that SanDisk?

Samsung 1TB 860 EVO

Crucial P1 1TB m.2 SSD

SanDisk 1TB Portable External SSD

Power Supply

Corsair RM850x, 850 Watt Gold Certified Fully Modular Power Supply

Cooler

I don't even know if I will need a coouler, and if I want to go liquid cooling route, and I don't care about RGB, but for a high end pc I'm assuming I should buy?


Corsair H115i RGB Platinum AIO Liquid CPU Cooler

Mouse

This seems like the best deal on a mouse no?

Logitech® MX Master 2S Wireless Mouse

RAM

Was actually looking for 32GB RAM, should I pass since if I go AMD mobo route, having to use more than 2 will cause a slowdown right?

Ballistix Elite 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR4 3600 MT/s

i know it's sold out right now, but 850 evo 1tb refurbs have been going for about $200 on best buy lately:


not to mention 860 evo 1tb brand new is $330

> How can I speed it up?

One thing you can do is to upgrade its RAM.

Your iMac supports up to 32 GB RAM, according to this source:

• https://everymac.com/actual-maximum-mac-ram/actual-maximum-imac-ram-capacity.html
  
  The RAM you buy must match the following specification:
  
  PC3-10600 1333 MHz DDR3, 204-pin
  
  This RAM should work, for example:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/SAMSUNG-10600-SODIMM-LAPTOP-MEMORY/dp/B0067GGPXC
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-PC3-10600-SODIMM-204-Pin-Memory/dp/B008LTBIT4
  
  I suggest that you install 4 x 8 GB RAM modules, in order to use all available RAM slots. This ensures optimal distribution across the RAM modules. The RAM modules which are currently in your iMac have resale value, too.
  
  Do NOT try to put in a higher total amount than 32 GB RAM. This can lead to the iMac not recognizing the RAM at best, to kernel panics / crashes of macOS at worst.
  
  This video shows the RAM upgrade, it is very easy:
  
  
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k8Sj10wYXAI
  
  -----
  
  > Is there a way I could speed it up maybe with an external SSD that I could format as the internal storage?
  
  Yes, you can boot the iMac from an external SSD connected via Thunderbolt 2. This does hamper the SSD a bit, they reach about 300 MB/s instead of the 500 MB/s they'd have when inserted into the iMac itself. Make no mistake, though, those speeds are still going to beat the speeds of the internal HDD easily.
  
  Any of these SSDs should work:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Inch-Internal-MZ-76E1T0B-AM/dp/B078DPCY3T
  
• https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-Solid-State-SDSSDHII-1T00-G25/dp/B01N1862SW
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-512GB-V-NAND-Solid-MZ-76P512BW/dp/B07836C6YV
  
  You will need an adapter like this to connect the SSD to the Thunderbolt 2 port:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Backup-Portable-Thunderbolt-Adapter/dp/B009HQCARY
  
  Do NOT connect the SSD to the USB-A 2.0 ports. Those ports do not have sufficient transfer speeds to properly handle the SSD. Use Thunderbolt 2 only to connect the SSD.
  
  Read this article for the details:
  
  
• https://robinmonks.com/2013/10/speed-up-your-mac-with-an-external-ssd/

As others have mentioned, that's not a mech board, but easy to see the confusion. Here are some other amazon alternatives within your budget:

These are clicky loud switches

Magicforce with Outemou Blues

Here is the same board but with Outemou Brown switches, these are tactile, so you feel the bump, but don't have the click sound

Magicforce with Outemou Browns

And if you want cherry switches, this is the magicforce with cherry switches and is backlit (the other two are not)

Magicforce with Cherry switches

So I hate to have you start a new addiction ;) but the ladies and lads over at /r/mechanicalkeyboards have a plethora of different keyboards varying in price. The caps were gifted to me and originally black. This is a MagicForce 68 that I purchased used from a friend so I am not 100% on the MSRP this has MX Black on it.


Keycaps: https://www.massdrop.com/buy/galaxy-c-pbt-all-over-dye-subbed-keycap-set currently have a sale on Massdrop for them I saw. My friends got it for me during Christmas at the original $100 price point this is Almost 50 bucks off!

Keyboard:The Black on is the pricer of the two probably be cause of the switches. https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-GATERON-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E57PUNA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1486745275&sr=8-5&keywords=magicforce+68


Looks like the White version is on Sale also!
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E8KO2B0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486745211&sr=8-1&keywords=magicforce+68

Nice and small giving me as much room as possible for my mouse.

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E8KO2B0/

Check out the Magicforce 68 on Amazon.

Personally, I don't think you can go wrong with a Magicforce 68 as an entry level mechanical keyboard. Qisan sells them on Amazon with Outemu switches, another Cherry MX clone similar to Kailh switches, for about $40 here.

Not that much

You can get cheaper (as seen in the recommendations), but this is my suggestion. The person I replied to didn't ask for a $34 option, just a cheaper option.

I'd recommend the Butterfox case instead of the licensed one, since it's more versatile, aesthetically pleasing, cheaper and fits more stuff. (i.e. ac adapter). If you want this one than make sure it's the 9 cartridge one, since that's the newest version. Also a 128 SD card class 10 will most likely go on sale this coming black friday/cyber monday.

Boy, Ubiquiti sure doesn't make it easy for the average home user/consumer to get a grasp on their products and offerings. I fumbled my way into a similar situation as yourself, perhaps bits of my ramblings will be helpful for you. I started off with a trusty little ER-X, fully planning to outgrow that little device within a matter of months. That did NOT happen, as it's quite a capable router for the $49 I invested in it. It even handled load-balancing dual WAN connections without breaking a sweat. And there's a PoE passthrough for pairing the router with a wireless access point. After being so thrilled with the ER-X, I decided it was time to bring our wireless capabilities into the 21st century and ended up going with a UAP-AC-LR, which has continued to serve us well over the past ~18+ months, or so. I was getting consistent remarks on just how great the WiFi was all of a sudden after deploying that lovely little UFO shaped device. Do yourself a favor and avoid the CloudKey, unless you have a very specific use-case / need for it. There's dozens of ways to run a UniFi Controller that are both cheaper (free?) and better, IMO. If you just have the single access point (I only have the one) you could potentially even stand it up simply by using the UniFi mobile app to set it and forget it. It only needs to run when you want to make modifications, or changes to your setup, but the options are immense. You can even run the software on your desktop PC, pretty much whatever you have on hand will suffice.

In an effort to give a somewhat complete run-down of your options, there's another line of products, where many folks prefer to go with a pure UniFi setup. The USG is on par with the ER-X, but it's twice the cost with less power and less features. The only added bonus is that you get to manage it from the same menu/interface as your access point(s), so your metrics and charts will fill out more and look a bit prettier, but how often do you really sit around and look at how much data your network devices are pulling? I still prefer the EdgeMAX dashboard over the UniFi Controller interface, especially considering the fact that I'm not wholly convinced the values are particularly accurate, so it may be of little value if that's something you actually need for your use-case, rather than just a pretty toy to view. Hope some of this helps, if you have further questions, please ask away! Below I'll list the absolute bare-bones, budget-conscious way to get into an incredibly stable home network setup, from my experiences. I only recently upgraded my Edgerouter-X with an Edgerouter 12 from the Early Release store, and today is the day my upgraded fiber package gets flipped on. Goodbye 100Mbps, hello Gbps! Sadly, not symmetrical... but that's for another time and place. Best of luck with your decision(s). I swear by my little "hybrid" network with the Edgerouter at the core and the UniFi access point (i've since added a mish-mash of switches, but unless you have a large need for ethernet connected devices, the ER-X should be plenty to get you going. This TP-Link was the absolute cheapest "managed" (smart) switch I could find in my research. I'm not quite sold on the UniFi switches, but I often wish I owned an Edgeswitch Lite, but someday I'll learn more than just the basics of the used Cisco SG300-20 i picked up to be the "core" switch of my network. Both the ER-X and ER12 have the added bonus of built in switching chips, so you get the best of both worlds which gives you quite a bit of flexibility in a home/lab environment.

TL;DR -- Edgerouter-X paired with UAP-AC-Lite with the UniFi Controller software running on pretty much whatever you have on hand (RPi, Google Cloud Compute, AWS, any old PC, etc.) and you will have a rock-solid network core with dreamy WiFi that'll get you compliments for weeks, if not months from your significant other and/or housemate(s).

These are great access points for the money.

So instead of using a mesh system, you will get much better performance using WAPs instead. The most popular one here is the UAP-AC-lite. You will still need a router, so you could buy a new one, like the Edgerouter X, or if you're happy with the netgear (except for the wireless performance of course) You can keep that and just run the WAPs off of that.

This thing is pretty good, and if you already have a router it's not a very expensive addon. The caveat, it needs a cat5 connection from your router handing out DHCP addresses to work, it won't do routing on its own.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY

>Plus it all seems inefficient since I already have the LAN throughout the house.

If you already have Ethernet pulled to places all over the house, then wired Access Points is the obvious and correct answer.

Ubiquiti is the king of reliable Access Points. But switching to Ubiquiti requires a bit more knowledge than your typical wireless router / repeater system, so if you choose this, you'll have to do a bit of learning too.

For 900 sqft on two floors, you can likely get away with just one Access Point mounted on the First Floor in the Center. That would easily cover the floor, plus very likely cover the floors above and below it too. A Ubiquiti nanoHD is my go-to recommendation lately, but if you are trying to save some money, an AC-LITE is fine.

nanoHD:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Internal-1733Mbit-Ethernet/dp/B07FFNTLJD/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=nanohd&qid=1574904222&s=electronics&sr=1-4

AC-PRO:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=nanohd&qid=1574903775&s=electronics&sr=1-5

AC Lite:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_rm?ac_md=0-0-YWMgbGl0ZQ%3D%3D-ac_d_rm&keywords=ac+lite&pd_rd_i=B015PR20GY&pd_rd_r=382f4fce-b8fd-41f5-9d83-2ce30c7d4867&pd_rd_w=2JjVi&pd_rd_wg=IV1TH&pf_rd_p=e2f20af2-9651-42af-9a45-89425d5bae34&pf_rd_r=BRFTH2F9ZHRVN6T7YH6B&psc=1&qid=1574903705

Since you already have Ethernet presumably at ground level, you can also consider the Ubiquiti In-Wall units as well. These units provide you Wireless Access Points PLUS they give you two Ethernet ports at ground level. If you can get your gamer and game machines plugged into Ethernet instead of wireless, you'll have the ideal setup (streaming and other things are fine on wireless).

So maybe 1 ceiling mounted AP in the middle of the first floor, one in wall where the gamer is (for Ethernet ports as well as supplemental WiFi on the second floor), and maybe one In-Wall in the basement if needed (good chance it won't be).

AC-In-Wall:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-UAP-AC-Iw-Wireless-Access/dp/B06XZLP8Q6/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1YA0NR13TWSGZ&keywords=ubiquiti+in+wall&qid=1574903832&s=electronics&sprefix=ubiquiti+in+w%2Celectronics%2C199&sr=1-2

If you do get 2-3 Ubiquiti APs, you'll probably want a PoE switch to power them all. This is another expense, unfortunately, but makes installation much cleaner.

>Based on what I've read (and experienced before) one kungfu wireless router isn't likely to provide adequate coverage throughout the house.

If you didn't want to go the Ubiquiti route, your house is actually a pretty good candidate for an Asus or Netgear, since it's 900sf stacked on top of each other. These consumer routers are pretty good these days. Unless your house is all brick and metal, I don't see why it wouldn't cover it.

Definetaly the [acer helios 300] (https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Predator-i7-8750H-Overclockable-PH315-51-78NP/dp/B07CTHLX8C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536889055&sr=1-3&keywords=helios+300&linkCode=ll1&tag=gaming0789-20&linkId=97eae9c9abb0f52ae8b1b74b1b33257b&language=en_US). 8th gen version. Very fast processor, awesome gpu, long battery life and great screen display. Nothing else compare.

Not a fan of the vitrolos case from Amazon. Bought one myself and it had no ventilation. Only box I've ever gotten a high temp indicator.

I'd recommend the canakit stuff off Amazon. If you want it all in one they have a kit that isn't too bad of a value, perhaps a the SD card is a little bit overpriced. But for friends that want to have me make something for them (like a retropie setup or whatever) I just point them to this as it's easier:

CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 Complete Starter Kit - 32 GB Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qEWfzbMVV9W7S

Otherwise you can pick a board, power supply, case, and heatsinks if you want, and if you have an hdmi cable and extra SD card you can get out a little cheaper.

[This is the kit I got] (https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1484331052&sr=1-3&keywords=raspberry+pi+3)

You can make one all inclusive for about $70 or so. It's relatively simple. You'll need the Pi (~$35), a power chord(~$5-10), a microSD card, an HDMI chord, and USB controllers(~$10-15 each). I highly recommend getting a case, although it's not 100% necessary.

Retropie setup guide: https://learn.adafruit.com/running-opengl-based-games-and-emulators-on-adafruit-pitft-displays/retropie-setup

Kit example: https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY

I would make sure and use a power supply specifically made for the Pi, but if you have a spare HDMI chord, microSD adapter, and decent microSD card laying around you can save a few bucks and get a kit without them.

After you set up RetroPie, download the games you want to install (Warning: Nintendo, Sega, etc games are copyrighted, so they're technically illegal to download. Your chances of repercussions for doing so are very low, but I've included fair warning now). Install the downloaded games and enjoy.

Raspberry Pi 3 is the way to go. You can have both a retro game system, and kodi.

edit: Suggest this kit
CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 Complete Starter Kit - 32 GB Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LYZ3yb9CEMZ6P

From a technical standpoint, if you read this and understand everything you shouldn't have any problems.

As far as actually putting it together, just buy this and you'll have everything you need except a controller. You can use just about any USB gamepad, including a wired Xbox 360 controller. The trickiest thing about the assembly is probably getting the micro SD card inserted in the USB reader correctly and then in the Pie itself correctly, which isn't very difficulty.

CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 Complete Starter Kit - 32 GB Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ghuvybV3YWTGG

Hello,

I have been wanting to start playing around with a raspberry Pi 3. So I was shopping around and found some kits for sale that were interesting.

I was wondering if someone with more knowledge could help. Would buying the board at this price be better than buying one of these kits from amazon with prime?

https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504673256&sr=1-3&keywords=raspberry+pi3

https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Ultimate-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q4GLE/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504673256&sr=1-11&keywords=raspberry+pi3

https://www.amazon.com/Vilros-Raspberry-Basic-Starter-Black/dp/B01DMFQZXK/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504673256&sr=1-9&keywords=raspberry+pi3

https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Essentials-Kit-board-Connectivity/dp/B01LWVVMUI/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504673256&sr=1-10&keywords=raspberry+pi3


If I just bought the board now, I would need to buy:

• Power supply
  
• Micro SD card
  
• HDMI cable
  
• and a case maybe
  
  Edit: Formatting
  

HDMI Cable, and make sure that SD card is compatible (Needs to be class 10). You should just follow the official guide here. It has a list of hardware.

https://github.com/RetroPie/RetroPie-Setup/wiki/First-Installation#hardware-needed

Or buy this and the controller. https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1479150434&sr=1-4&keywords=raspberry+pi+3

On/Off Button (2 Pack):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077JYXZLL?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


Full “RetroPie” or “Raspbian” starter kit (“CanaKit”):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C6Q2GSY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


3.5 Inch Screen (includes the case that I’m currently using):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075JFHLQD?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


SNES controllers: I also have N64 Controllers; any type of controller you need, you can find on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7ANDLC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf



ADDITIONAL ITEMS (found around the house; or stores near me)

Power source: I used a simple phone charger; just attached it to the bottom of the system.

Zip-ties: I used them to bundle up the cables in the back; over all it condenses the whole thing without having to “splice” and reconnect cables.

“Mighty-Putty” (I got the off-brand called “Tack-Putty”): Used to connect the battery pack to the bottom of the device. Originally was going to use Velcro to have the added ability of attaching and detaching the battery pack at will. (But the putty has a really solid seal; no problems so far)


I think that’s it; happy building!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C6Q2GSY

I bought this and took me like an hour between opening the box, putting together, configuring, and adding ROMS.

I also have no comp exp.

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E8KO2B0

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZ9XE8N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_P9TJyb7XXXFMA?th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Velocifire-Tenkeyless-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches/dp/B01MS8YTYX/ref=sr_1_261?ie=UTF8&qid=1485774275&sr=8-261&keywords=brown+mechanical+keyboard

magicforce68 is a pretty decent budget keeb.

this version has the brown switches but its the cheapest

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E8KO2B0

there is also the drevo calibur for 10$ more has bluetooth

https://www.amazon.com/DREVO-Calibur-Bluetooth-Mechanical-Switch-Black/dp/B01N7HNY1F/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519526924&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=drevo+calibur&psc=1

wow 50 bucks huh? not sure if your going to get anything reliable at that price. if you need 5ghz only you could always get one of these and mount it to a rafter facing down. at 65 bucks its a little over your budget.

one of these though is a lot more suited to home wifi. you can turn the 2.4ghz channel off if you really dont want it too. yes its a hundred bucks but you would be hard pressed to find another solution that would work as well in this price range.

I'd say the TP-Link Archer C7 or the ASUS RT-N66U should do the trick. If you want to go nutty there's always the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite and UniFi AP AC Lite, but this setup isn't as plug-and-play as the first two.

Qisan MagicForce. Very affordable. Can get them in a wide variety of switches. https://www.amazon.com/Qisan-Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce/dp/B01E8KO2B0

If you are okay with a smaller form factor and want a cheap mechanical keyboard, you can check this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E8KO2B0
It comes with Oetemu Browns and not Cherry MX Browns, but for the price they are good. The function row keys are available through combinations with the Fn key.
Of course, you should check out /r/mechanicalkeyboards .

Also cheap on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Ultra-128GB-Micro-Adapter/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1538147866&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=sandisk+class+10+micro+sd+card&psc=1

128GB for $26.41, 64GB for $14.75, 32GB for $9.39. I believe flash memory is dropping with cryptocurrency dropping.

$25.39

Sandisk Ultra 128GB Micro SDXC UHS-I Card with Adapter -  100MB/s U1 A1 - SDSQUAR-128G-GN6MA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VdGVBb3RNJQ22

Howdy folks. There is another option that's cheaper and was posted today..

Amazon link from other thread

I bought that Sandisk card about a year ago and it's holding up well. It's also only $30 on Amazon right now (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MbDJBbWKHSPK5).

128GB Sandisk microSD cards are 15$ right now on Amazon.

200GB - $64.99

128GB - $38.99

64GB - $19.99

The hard wire kit is supposed to cut power off if the battery voltage gets too low to prevent draining the battery. I may test to see how long it records with the car off to see if it will be something I do.

I'm not familiar with types of SC cards so hopefully mine will work. It suggested a class 10 so I got the SanDisk Ultra.

I'm talking about an internal SSD. The 2.5" models use what's called a SATA connector (the same type your current hard drive should use). Using it through USB will not only be much slower, but also mean that you have to carry around the external storage which is a pain in the ass.

The best way to think about SSDs is that they're basically really fast hard drives with no moving parts. They're just better in every way, and in this day and age it's hard to be without one.

Edit: here is what I'm talking about when I say internal 2.5" SSD.

Available through Amazon Prime for the same price. Non-prime is $299.99.

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Inch-Internal-MZ-76E1T0B-AM/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537281679&sr=8-1&keywords=MZ-76E1T0B%2FAM

If you do need a new SSD you'd be better off getting 1TB instead:

Samsung has the 860 EVO M.2 1TB for the same price as two of these.

Same with Microcenter (in-store only) but with the SATA III version.

Amazon for $168.

To be honest, you might as well wait two months for Black Friday. Chances are if they're this low now, especially given how many places have them on sale for this price, it'll be much cheaper on Black Friday.

I installed the Samsung 860 EVO 1TB and it's been great. Seems very fast to me.

​

Samsung 860 EVO 1TB

www.amazon.com/dp/B07CTHLX8C

save for tower, this should work perfect for wow, btw you should clean fans every 3 months

A desktop.

But, if you want good performance, a laptop designated as a gaming laptop
would be a good start. A better one would be a desktop replacement laptop. And best would be a workstation laptop.

The Acer Predator Helios 300 Gaming Laptop would be a good place to look.

https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Predator-i7-8750H-Overclockable-PH315-51-78NP/dp/B07CTHLX8C/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1538417882&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=acer+helios+300&psc=1

with better processor, ram, storage and a 144hz screen.

And people won't even pay more than 1100 used for that model. Your asking price is way too high.

I saw a SanDisk SDXC 128GB for 29.99 on Amazon, the 200GB is 49.99. Not sure if these are exclusively black Friday related, but it's definitely the lowest I've seen either.

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q57S62/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_m8OnybSB4D0HT

Amazon is now matching this deal.

I use these https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-System-UAP-AC-LITE-US/dp/B015PR20GY/

Just spread them around your house. I used 3 for my house, not even a single spot has no/weak signal.

This is closer to a home networking topic because of the low complexity but I don't mind helping.

1. Don't get EdgeRouter X. The EdgeRouter Lite is quite a bit better and only costs a bit more.
   
   
2. Your bottleneck is most likely the wireless routers you have currently. Neither is suitable for running 40 devices and even 20 can be pushing their limits once you have just a few clients streaming video.
   
   Put your modem into bridge mode and have the N66-U running as the router. Turn off the wireless. Get a UniFi AC Lite AP, place it up high and wire it into the router.
   
   If you have extra money get another access point and then an EdgeRouter Lite 3.
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-System-UAP-AC-LITE-US/dp/B015PR20GY
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Edgerouter-Router-ERLITE-3/dp/B00HXT8EKE
   
   

Get yourself a Ubiquiti Edge router and AC-AP-Lite. Network problems done.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C/ref=pd_sbs_147_9?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00YFJT29C&pd_rd_r=XWMVACJREC989AK6NVZZ&pd_rd_w=TT8Ar&pd_rd_wg=4sK3H&psc=1&refRID=XWMVACJREC989AK6NVZZ

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1517765893&sr=8-5&keywords=ubiquiti+access+point

Mate you copy and pasted the wrong information :

That information is for:
>CrystalDiskMark 3.0 - PNY U3 Turbo Performance 32GB High Speed MicroSDHC - P-SDU32GU390G-GE
Sequential Read : 90.912 MB/s
Sequential Write : 54.702 MB/s

Speed benchmark for the 200gb sandisk via this site is:

45.93 MB/s read and 24.33 MB/s write for sequential in CDM

ATTO picture on the right tops out at 15 MB/s write speed writing larger files and 40+ MB/s read speed

edit: another customer review http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/review/B00V62XBQQ/R23QSX1C2N3LKY?ref_=glimp_1rv_cl at 83 MB/s read and 14.7 MB/S write

And another with a CDM http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/review/B00V62XBQQ/R2VEZ2XWKOTMDU?ref_=glimp_1rv_cl NFI how to interpret as his SEQQ32T1 is 26ish MB/S but SEQ is 60MB/S

/u/Nilzzz reports 19MB/S sequential write

Alright I got a technical question.

I ordered a SanDisk Extreme PRO 64GB link

Read: Up to 95MB/s

Write: Up to 90MB/s

So won't this be ideal for a snappy phone speeds from an SD card for both 4k and general use?


---

Compared to the current offer Actual amazon link

The product description doesn't give a clear indication of write speeds (vs the 1st product I listed) but from the useful Amazon Comments I got:

Sequential Read : 45.93 MB/s

Sequential Write : 14.7 MB MB/s

^(thanks /u/ekol for the correct read/write speeds)

So wouldn't the 64gig Extreme pro be ideal for 4k recording and general speediness?

Absolutely, it really depends on what you want. My first dash cam was the Rexing V1 Dash Cam. It is one of the cheapest on the market that is still very reliable. However, it only covers the front of the car. I recently upgraded to a BlackSys CH-100B. This one is a little bit more expensive, but it comes with a rear camera as well. Blacksys has an app that can connect with the built-in wifi of their cameras that allows you to change settings and review footage from your phone. If you want more information there is a subreddit devoted to dashcams. Hope this helps!

Just bought this one for this exact reason. Super easy to install.

Rexing V1 Car Dash Cam 2.4" LCD FHD 1080p 170 Degree Wide Angle Dashboard Camera Recorder with Sony Exmor Video Sensor, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X528FNE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I don't know too much about dash cams, but I do have this one and it is pretty good. Amazing quality overall, even at night. One thing I do have to say is to be careful with dash cams in extreme heat since they can get damaged on a hot summer day with the windows up. My Rexing did get damaged this way, but the company sent me a new one for free right away.
If you are looking into buying a dash cam, I would recommend looking at YouTube guides/reviews as well as Amazon reviews. I do recommend them to everyone though as they can be a life saver.

I own this. Got it on sale for $70 at some point.

Cable routing is just something you have to put some time into.

this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X528FNE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 you need a micro sd card i got the sandisk extreme 32gb https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HU3Q6F2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 you also need a usb sd card reader if your computer dosent have one built in. for that i got this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JJ1VDQK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i did a driving test of the cam today and it seems really solid. smooth crisp video and the audio is pretty good quality as well.

its job insurance because if you get in a crash and its not your fault, you can prove that. CDL drivers are automatically assumed at fault for any crash, so proving that you werent at fault goes a long way. like for example if you plowed into someones rear end because he cut you off and then immediately braked, you'd be boned without a cam. its happened to me twice and im not about to let it happen unfilmed if it does.

SanDisk Ultra 128GB microSDXC UHS-I Card with Adapter, Black, Standard Packaging (SDSQUNC-128G-GN6MA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q57S62/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_gjNEybQA4N5TQ

128GB for $39.99 retail.

I'm a big fan of Shure in-ear monitors. The SE215's are around 100 if I recall correctly. They have a moldable ear 'clip' for wrapping behind your ears, a long cable, and the cable has braided Kevlar in the sheath to make them more durable.

Edit: they are 100 on Amazon prime right now
http://www.amazon.com/Shure-SE215-K-Isolating-Earphones-MicroDriver/dp/B004PNZFZ8

I have no experience with noise canceling headphones, but when I used to ride BART, I picked up a set of sound isolating, in-canal ear buds and love them. I have the Shure SE110, which they do not appear to make anymore, so this link is way overpriced. When I bought them they were $100. I believe the SE215s would be the current equivalent.

If you aren't used to that style, they take some getting used to, but once you get accustomed to getting them fit right in there, the sound is fantastic. You just need to make sure they're all the way in, or the bass will be non-existent. I knew I loved them when I was standing on the BART platform, just behind the yellow line, listening at half volume while looking down at my MP3 player, and the train managed to sneak up on me as it pulled into the station. They also blocked out the transbay howl pretty well. I used them for music and playing games on my PSP. I credit them for keeping me sane for those two years...

I'd like to highly recommend Shure SE215.
They have the foam tips like BeerWrench suggested that act essentially just like earplugs, but sit flush in your ear. My biggest problem was my helmet catching on the end of the earbud and ripping/pushing it out. Absolutely zero issue with these.

I'd recommend these above any other earbud I've tried because the noise isolation works so well that I can listen to my music at half volume (even quiet stuff like Bon Iver) and hear every note perfectly whereas with my old Bose IE2s I had to blast it and lost a ton of range.

With $200 best you can do would be to purchase an AV receiver and a pair of speakers. Would be massively superior to the TV speakers, probably close to if not superior to a $200 soundbar and would allow for upgrading as your budget allows to a full 5.1 setup.

That said, with $200 I do this...

Receiver $130: http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/pionvsx524k/pioneer-vsx-524-k-5.1-ch-x-80-watts-a/v-receiver/1.html

L/R speakers $60: https://smile.amazon.com/Micca-MB42-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B009IUIV4A/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1483651185&sr=1-2&keywords=micca

although if you can stretch just a bit get these instead $90: https://smile.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1483651185&sr=1-3&keywords=micca

Either way you'll have decent sound. If you go with the MB42 then buy the MB42x when you can afford to and move the MB42 to surround duty. If you can get the MB42x to start then get this when you can $80: https://smile.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-C-Channel-Speaker-Tweeter/dp/B00HHFBEK6/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1483651185&sr=1-5&keywords=micca so you'll have a 3.0 system.

When money allows get your subwoofer $128 on sale, $148 when not: http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1200-12-120-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-629

I highly recommend that you get a pair of decent bookshelf speakers and a amp. It will blow away any cheap pair of basic computer speakers or expensive Logitech ones.

• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009IUIV4A (Bookshelf Speakers)
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/SA-36A-TPA3118D2DAP-Digital-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00JXCEDGS (Mini Amp)
  
  It may cost a bit up front, but you'll really enjoy the sound quality for listening to music, gaming, or just watch movies. If you want more options, head over to r/BudgetAudiophile
  
  Edit: What's with the downvotes?? I have experience with this setup and it really is better than any cheap computer speakers...add in a subwoofer and it's awesome.

> SanDisk 200GB

boop

How does this differ from this SanDisk 200gb MicroSD available since March 2015?

Article Jun 29, 2015.. oh.

200gb is $49.99.

https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-SDSDQUAN-200G-G4A/dp/B00V62XBQQ

Amazon link. Note that 128 GB is the sweet spot for GBs/dollar.

Or get 2 x 200 GB for $140

Micca mb42's and this receiver, BOOM. DONE.

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B009IUIV4A

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/yamaha-200w-2-ch-stereo-receiver-black/5037100.p?skuId=5037100

'Gaming' is just a term companies use to cater to people who play video games (gamers). You don't want to buy from someone like Logitech who makes mice, keyboards, webcams, desktop speakers, 'gaming' headsets, etc.

You want to buy a pair of quality headphones (not headset) from a music company like Audio-Technica (Japan), Sennheiser (Germany), AKG, Grado, Shure, Bower & Wilkins (UK) and so on. These companies (besides maybe Sennheiser) don't really advertise to gamers, so you're kind of stuck in the loop of Logitech, Corsair, HyperX, Creative, etc.

I'm not sure what kind of music you're into, so I can't make any suggestions but I can give you starter things to look into. Check out the suggestion thread over in /r/headphones. Add a standalone mic or a V-Moda Boom Mic.

Philips SHP9500

Audio-Technica ATH-AD900X (also the 700X)

Sennheiser HD598

This is a slippery slope my friend..... Been there done that. Next thing you know you will have a pair of these and an astro mixamp.


http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-AD700X-Audiophile-Open-Air-Headphones/dp/B009S332TQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1395711302&sr=1-1&keywords=audio+technica+ad700x

To expand a little bit on what ImKrimzen is getting at...

This community is really, really hardcore about headphones. I say this in an affectionate but matter-of-fact way: we are a bunch of elitists who mostly look down our noses at products like the one you're asking about. Most gamers here prefer to use an awesome pair of headphones with a regular 3.5mm audio hookup, and then attach something like this mic to it. This tends to give you better value for your money than buying an overpriced gaming headset. Now, playing on console is a little more complicated...I've never even used a mic when console gaming, but if you can find a way to set that up via a bluetooth mic or something, then you can always just use the PS4 controller's headphone jack to plug in a regular pair of headphones and then go to town. (Or alternatively, your TV's aux out if it has one, or optical digital out through a DAC.) Here are a couple of relatively inexpensive headphones that have an absolutely stellar reputation around here for gaming. (And will also bring your movies and music to another level.)

Less expensive

More expensive

Most expensive (or actually not, because they're on sale)

Edit: Oh, just one important thing to note: this is /r/headphones 101, but since you're new, I'm just going to assume you may not realize that all those options I linked are open-back headphones, which means that they do not isolate sound well and they leak your sound out. In other words, other people around you can hear your stuff and you can probably hear noises in your environment, so if you need sound isolation, get a closed-back pair like this. But the advantage of open-back is that you generally get better-quality sound for your dollar, and the sound stage is always better, meaning the locations of sounds in your 3D headspace are very detailed and precise. This is really awesome for immersive gaming and movie-watching, so people love open-back headphones for those uses.

It's basically a Audio- Technica AD500 or AD700 (The AD700X and AD500X sound essentially the same, as far as I can tell, while the X versions might have slightly more bass). The AD900 would be an improvement on this sound signature towards neutrality, whereas something like an AKG K7xx would be a substantial increase on the low end of this sound signature, and a decrease in the peakiness of the treble, which creates an overall similar sound signature, but one which is much more pleasing to most people.

In terms of an actual label- it's mids focused, with a 10k peak.

Link to measurements- AD500

Link to Amazon- AD500X

[Link to measurements- AD700]
(http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/AudioTechnicaATHAD700.pdf)

Link to Amazon- AD700X

Don't buy a headset, they're shit.

Go with some decent headphones, probably either this or this (or if you want to go cheaper this which will still sound leagues better than any $200 headset) as I know they both have good soundstage.

For mic, get a Modmic which is $30 and will have better voice quality than most $200 headsets.

Now to connect it to your 260 you need an adapter which luckily Steelseries makes a nice one.

If you still really want an all in one headset though, go with an Astro they're still a bit pricy but at least they're not shit like TBs are.

Here's a few options. Depending on where you are in the world some might be more feasible than others. I'm talking from a UK perspective, YMMV.

• Sennheiser HD598 + Antlion ModMic. Can't speak for the quality of the modmic but I own the HD598's and adore them, they're almost unbeatable. The ModMic is essentially a headset mic with velcro pads included so that you can stick it onto pretty much any set of headphones that has space for it.
  
  
• Phillips Fidelio X2 + V-Moda Boompro mic. This is a good option because the Fidelio X2's have a standard 3.5mm port meaning you can plug any 3.5mm mic into it, including the V-Moda Boompro which is essentially a headset mic that can be unplugged (though of much better quality imo). Again, can personally attest to quality as I own both. The X2's are £130 on Amazon rn which is a goddamn goddamn steal in my opinion, but they're better for music than gaming (again, my opinion, it's slightly subjective). They'll still thrash any headset but they don't quite compare to the HD598's for competitive gaming.
  
  
• Speaking of Phillips and 3.5mm ports, a cheaper option than the X2's would be the Philips SHP9500/00. Same benefits as the X2's, but in this case they + the V-Moda Boompro will run you about as much as the X2's alone would. Can't speak for sound quality, haven't tried them, but I hear they're very good.
  
  
• Another option would be the Audio Technica AD700x; from what I have heard this is pretty much the end game for gaming cans. They're legendary, beating out the HD598's by a small margin; small enough that really it's personal preference as to whether you go for these or the Sennheisers. Both will do you proud. Again, an Antlion ModMic would be your best option here, you won't be able to fit a V-Moda Boompro as like with Sennheiser, the AD700x uses a proprietary port.
  
  
• Finally, if you got the cash, you could go for the Audio Technica ATH-ADG1X; essentially Audio Technica have cut out the need for a third party mic by adding their own; it's a headset. The downside to this is that it's expensive for what it is, and you probably leave yourself open to the kinds of issues you'd have with standard headsets (more likely to fail, harder/more expensive to fix if they do). Not really sure how much you'd have to worry about this since it's genuine quality; not the £15 of components stuffed into a £100 headset that passes for "gaming headsets" these days. TimTheTatMan uses one of these on Twitch if I'm not mistaken.
  
  So that's what I recommend. Any option you pick here will theoretically last you a great many years, if not a lifetime, and will outperform any gaming headset. This is because manufacturers of these headsets will spend a tiny amount of cash on the components and a large amount of cash on marketing them, meaning when you buy a gaming headset you're really paying for them to sell it to you. Stuff like I've listed above is all word of mouth; passes the savings onto the consumer who gets a quality product at a good price.
  They're all open backed, meaning they leak sound out and allow outside sound in; the benefit of this is that you get a wider soundstage, which in regard to gaming essentially means better 3D positioning. You can pick out things like footsteps and locate where they're coming from with a great degree of ease.
  
  HD598: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sennheiser-HD-598SR-Over-Ear-Headphone-Black/dp/B06WLGRYSF/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521973971&sr=1-1&keywords=HD+598
  
  Fidelio X2: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Philips-X2-Headphones-Over-Ear-Cushions-Black/dp/B00MRUPSHQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521974003&sr=8-1&keywords=Fidelio+x2
  
  Phillips SHP9500/00: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Philips-SHP9500-00-Headphone/dp/B00ENMK1DW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521974021&sr=8-1&keywords=shp9500
  
  Audio Technica AD700X: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Audio-Technica-ATH-AD700X-backed-Hi-Fi-headphones/dp/B009S332TQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1521974053&sr=8-1&keywords=ad700x
  
  Audio Technica ADG1X: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Audio-Technica-ATH-ADG1X-High-Fidelity-Open-Air-Headset/dp/B01AYZZP5U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521973470&sr=8-1&keywords=audio+technica+headset
  
  V-Moda Boompro: https://www.amazon.co.uk/V-MODA-BoomPro-Microphone-Gaming-Communication/dp/B00BJ17WKK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521974126&sr=8-1&keywords=v-moda+boompro
  
  Antlion ModMic: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Antlion-Audio-ModMic-Attachable-Microphone-Uni-Directional-Muteless/dp/B00R98O6R4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521974091&sr=8-2&keywords=antlion+modmic

How are these better than the open back Audio-Technicas for half the price?


https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-AD700X-Audiophile-Open-Air-Headphones/dp/B009S332TQ/ref=sr_1_10?crid=OYQVTW0HCH0G&keywords=audio+technica+headphones&qid=1555088042&s=gateway&sprefix=audio+technica%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-10


Best headphones I've ever purchased.

For the T440s? I would go with following upgrades:

• Display: 14.0" FHD IPS
  
• Rear battery: ThinkPad Battery 6 cell Li-Ion (72Wh) Cyl HC Rear
  
• Wireless: Intel Dual Band Wireless 7260AC with Bluetooth 4.0
  
  Everything else stock. If you don't need 10 to 12 hours of battery life, you can go for a smaller battery. The 6 cell rear battery will stick out of the bottom. I don't know if you want that. Then I would buy a 4 GB RAM module and a 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO and stick it in instead of the HDD. The prices right now on the 840 EVO series from Samsung are crazy.

the 840 evo 250gb is currently on sale. for ~20 more you can get twice the storage

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-EVO-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7TE250BW/dp/B00E3W1726/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394632204&sr=8-1&keywords=840+evo+250gb

It is absolutely worth it. I have an early 2011 MBP and the speed bump from switching to an SSD was enormous. I can't recommend it enough.

If you are looking for hardware suggestions, look at the Samsung 840 Evo. I have it, some people I know have one, we all are satisfied and it seems to give you lots of bang for the buck.

https://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-F12-475-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0015A8Y5M People seem to like this one. I don't own it, but very nice for the money.

Edit: I know this is like $10 over your budget, but figured you could stretch it $10.

Denon S710W ($250), it handles HDR, has Audyssey Bronze, and ARC (the S510BT doesn't have those, so get that if you don't care).

Pioneer FS52 ($90x2, if you have Prime)

BIC Venturi 10" ($170).

If you have a subwoofer, I personally don't think towers are worth it, besides aesthetics. Amazon sells the bookshelf version of those towers for half the price ($90 for the pair). So you could go that way to save money, or get better bookshelves and/or a better sub.

Or, if you don't care about future expandability, you can get a real nice pair of powered monitors with a sub out, bypassing the need for a receiver. Such as the new Kanto YU6 for $390 (available in many colors) + either the BIC F12 ($215) or the Dayton 15" ($200).

Assuming you don't need a receiver? I'd pick up 2 Chane bookshelf speakers and a BIC F12. If you don't like those speakers, you could also go with some HSU Research bookshelves too.



EDIT: Whoops, didn't notice you said you get 60% off of klipsch. In that case, pick up a couple RF-62's and the matching subwoofer, and you should be around that price range.

The Bic F12 is arguably the best sub in that price range but with a room that big you are going to need more than one sub to get full coverage. 14x30 is a good sized room.

http://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-F12-475-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0015A8Y5M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382973964&sr=8-1&keywords=bic+f12

>Budget of around $200.
>
>Will this do the job?

The subwoofer you linked? HELL NO.

For $200 the ONLY sub worth looking at is the BIC F12 https://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-F12-475-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0015A8Y5M

It still won't rock your room completely but it'll be light years better than the crappy Polk sub you have.

​

> I'll be using this in addition to the Polk 8" sub.

Donate to good will. Don't bother using it ever again once you get a new sub.

LR: Elac Debut 2.0 6.2 bookshelfs

C: Elac Debut 2.0 6.2 center

Sub: Bic America F12 or Dayton Audio Sub-1200

AVR: Something here. Whatever fits your budget and has the features you need. Make sure that if you're going to be streaming music to get one that is at least wifi compatible or networking (ethernet jack). I personally can recommend the Yamaha RX-V483. If that Yamaha is too expensive then go with a Denon with comparable features.

Stands: (If you don't already have a surface to put your LR on) Monoprice monoliths (24inch or 28inch, depending on ear height at listening/watching position) or Monoprice glass

If the price comes out to be too much then go with the Dayton sub and a cheaper AVR.
You'll also need some speaker wire, a wire cutter, and possibly some silicone hemispheres


That is a 3.1 to start. I think you'll be very happy and impressed with it. Given some time and some saving you'll be ready to upgrade to some surrounds. Delayed gratification is always worth it in this game :)

I've had the BIC F12, for about 2 weeks now and it has been amazing. Extremely powerful and very clear. Should be right around your budget and it also looks like it has the inputs you need.

Nikon actually makes a fantastic 35 mm 1.8 that I would recommend over the 50 mm 1.8 on the crop sensored d5100. 35mm on a crop is very close to the normal zoom and range of vision you get with your eyes, so it's more intuitive to use. Plus, it's only $200.

Check it out on Amazon. Note: It only works on DX Nikons, not FX.

That's a shame. I did find some 10mm and 18mm lenses for the D5500 but the prices are just outrageous. Looks like my kit lens will have to do for wide angles. I still might invest in the 35mm prime. seems to be a good price for a great lens.

Thanks for the input!

D3200 and 35mm f/1.8 DX. The camera is lightweight and simple, with excellent technical image quality. Controls and build quality aren't as robust as pricier cameras, and the step-up model, the D5200, has a flip-out screen. The lens performs very well for the money, and other options start getting pricy really fast in some cases.

Before I jump in to try and provide you with an answer, I want to verify the information that you gave in your posting to make sure that we're on the same page. Some quick google-fu tells me that you have the following already, which I'm hoping you can confirm.

>DX 0.2m

I'm assuming that this is the Nikon 40mm f/2.8

>DX 1.1m

I'm also assuming that this is the Nikon 55-200mm f/4-5.6

I'm also guessing that he has a D3300 and not a D330 (I don't think there is one, other redditors correct me if I'm wrong please) because his current kit of lenses is comprised of DX lenses. I'd like to make a couple lenses recommendations (lenses that I think are great for any kit) based on the above information.

Nikon 35mm f/1.8G

Amazon Link

Adorama Link

B&H Photo Video Link


Nikon 50mm f/1.8D (Manual focus only on the D3300 since it doesn't have an internal focus motor)

Amazon Link

Adorama Link

B&H Photo Video Link

Both of those lenses will be alright for event and outdoor photography (although having to juggle primes all the time can be a bit of a pain and the 55-200 he already has is probably better for wildlife) but each will clock in under $200, giving you some extra cash to spare if you decide to pick up a UV filter for both of those lenses - they both use 52mm threaded filters. The only thing I can see is that both of those lenses fall somewhat within the same focal distance as the 40mm f/2.8, so the only other thing I can think of is the 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G if one didn't come with the camera body when he bought it. That can be had for under $200 and would be helpful as an everyday walk-around lens instead of having to lug around different primes.

Amazon Link

Adorama Link

B&H Photo Video Link

I hope this is helpful!

*Edited for formatting.

/u/BRADLEYTANK2 - sadly, the videography business changes so quickly that it is hard to keep guides and tutorials up to date.

As of late 2016, you can get a decent starter camera for under $2000, depending on what kind of videography business you want to pursue. Here are a few options:

Option One

If you plan to shoot events, corporate promos, local commercials, etc. - I recommend a small sensor, 4K pro camcorder such as the [$1295 JVC HM170 with the free top handle and pro XLR mic inputs] (https://www.amazon.com/JVC-GY-HM170U-Professional-Camcorder-Handle/dp/B00W0SFQ86/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).

The HM170 has a 12x power zoom, professional XLR mic inputs, built-in NDs, a full sized HDMI out, 1080/120p slow motion and dual card slots with unlimited recording time.

Here is the image quality you can expect from this camcorder:

Outdoors

• [A Fishing Story with Ronnie Green and Jen 4k by sam root] (https://vimeo.com/178128763) (2 camera show with a couple of color grading examples) (4k)
  
  
• [JVC GY-HM170 (4K) by Ferenc Kereszturi] (https://youtu.be/dgKV1rwyoc4) (2160p)
  
  Indoors (Studio)
  
  
• [JVC GY-HM170 Studio Test by Jeff Zimmerman] (https://youtu.be/_rt3UivHUko) (2160p)
  
  Indoors (Non-studio)
  
  
• [JVC GY-HM170/JVC GY-HM200 - 2016 World of Wheels - Chicago by illdaddyrod] (https://youtu.be/fvm9UYQg8Bo) (1080p)
  
  
• [4K basketball by JVC GY-HM170/GY-HM200 test video in typical dark gym - Pinewood Girls Basketball 2016, by Rich Altmaier] (https://youtu.be/IDmpxSKo_Pw) (shot in a dimly lit basketball gym at -21dB - 2160p)
  
  Slow Motion
  
  
• [Paintball: 2016 January 31st practice @ Blitz Paintball Colorado
  Mile High Island] (https://youtu.be/BP95O4bn8os) (shot with JVC HM170 and DJI Osmo at 1080/120p)
  
  
• [Ian Howes - Broome Tioga MX (KTM 250 XC) | JVC HM170 Test Footage by Adamgmx24] (https://youtu.be/Zb3gPnjLjbM)
  
  In my view, this is the best small sensor pro camcorder you can buy for less than $1500.
  
  Option Two
  
  If you want to shoot "cinematic" narrative, music videos, fashion videos, weddings, larger market commercials, etc. - I recommend a large sensor, 4K, interchangeable lens camera such as the [$1197 (on sale) Panasonic GH4] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I9GYG8O//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) (only a few left at this price as of 12/26/16 - the camera will go back up to $1497.99 when they are sold out).
  
  You should also get the [~$99 V-LOG upgrade] (https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-Firmware-Upgrade-Activation-Professional/dp/B014U62K8E//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) to increase the camera's dynamic range.
  
  A [Panasonic 25mm f1.7 low light prime starter lens will cost you another $179.99] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=182012172949&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg).
  
  Here is the image quality the GH4 can produce at 4K with V-LOG (please set Vimeo to 4K and watch at your monitor's highest resolution):
  
  
• [spin, drift.] (https://vimeo.com/134425559) (4K - anamorphic)
  
  
• [Panasonic GH4 V-log L Tokyo Yokohama] (https://vimeo.com/141998476) (4K - anamorphic)
  
  
• [MULLETO 2 by Trey Vollmer] (https://vimeo.com/140521510) (4K - anamorphic)
  
  
• [The Wood Frame Craftsmen Chapter 2 木製眼鏡職人 第二話 (CinémaScope Subtitled 寬銀幕中文字幕版) by Xi-Yu LI] (https://vimeo.com/192577336) (4K - anamorphic)
  
  This camera produces the most cinematic image you'll find below $2000.
  
  Option Three
  
  If you want to sell professional quality stills and video, you might want to take a look at a [$1796.95 Nikon D500 body with a free battery grip and 128GB SD card] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAIXMCZ//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) plus a [$196.95 35mm f1.8G prime lens] (https://www.amazon.com/Nikon-AF-S-NIKKOR-Focus-Cameras/dp/B001S2PPT0//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).
  
  This camera has 4K video resolution, much better low light performance than the GH4 and takes impressive 20.9MP Nikon-class stills, as seen [here] (https://www.flickr.com/groups/2890521@N25/pool).
  
  Plus, it's a capable 4K camera. Here is the 4K video image quality this camera can produce:
  
  
• [Exposure - Filmed Exclusively with the 4k Nikon D500 by 3 Strings] (https://vimeo.com/148137887) (4K)
  
  
• [Sunfreakz Feat. Whitney Tai - Truth Be Told - Official Video - 4K - Nikon D500 - GoPro by sunfreakz] (https://youtu.be/BBpuNIlU9PY) (2160p)
  
  
• [Go ride by Artem Nedoshepa] (https://youtu.be/OPOx_Ykn3_I) (2160p)
  
  For video, the GH4 is the best camera in this price class. But if you want a professional quality still camera that also produces 4K video for under $2000, you might want to take a serious look at the D500.
  
  You'll also need support (e.g., a tripod and/or gimbal), plus pro audio and lighting - but these camera options should get you started.
  
  Hope this is helpful, good luck with your new business and Happy New Year!

The lens is easy - get a new/used Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G

The body will be somewhat subjective. This is the first one I had, and I'd recommend it. Used is around $250-300. Nikon D5100

Edit: Instead of the 35mm lens, you can get the FX 50mm 1.8g, which is about $50 more, which will be better for portraits. The 35mm will give you more versatility. Neither will be all that great for landscape. I recommend the 35mm since it's the equivalent focal length of 53mm, which is pretty close to the 'standard' focal length.

Please dont buy any Headset get yourself a nice pair of Headphones and a small mic.

http://www.amazon.de/Beyerdynamic-AMS-DT-990-PRO-250-DT-990-Pro-Headphones/dp/B0011UB9CQ/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1382078720&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=beyerdynamic+dt+990

http://www.amazon.de/Zalman-ZM-MIC1-Mikrofon-mit-Mikro-Clip/dp/B00029MTMQ/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1382078697&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=anklipp+mikrofon

I bought that setup with a nice Soundcard only for Battlefield 4 and omg i was surprised how good the sound is.

Turtle beaches are among the worst crap you can buy.

If you want to really drop a decent amount, you can buy some pretty good audiophile headphones for a bit over $200. You'll need to get a separate microphone then, but that is a very good option for music and gaming.

Something like the dt990-pro, q701, or HD598

• Our own beloved /r/headphones subreddit
  
  
• Mad Lust Envy's guide on head-fi
  
  EDIT: Amazon links added w/ child's play affiliate and some others

At that budget, I'd go with Denon 1400 and BIC F12 sub.

And if you want to add some speakers

You will be disappointed with that sub as it only goes down to 40 Hz. I'd look at the BIC F-12. It will get down to 25Hz and well within the budget.

If you want a general purpose prime on an APSC camera, 35mm is the sweet spot. I run Canon gear, but on my old 80D, I had the most satisfaction using a 35mm f/2. My brother uses a D7100 and I recommended him a 35mm. He got a 35mm f/1.8G and has been extremely happy with it and never takes it off. It's cheap and gives great image quality for the price. That will equal about 52mm on your body which is a generally wide enough FOV for environmental shots but also narrow enough for portraits, with blown out background. https://www.instagram.com/ggomezmk6/ The most recent maybe 15-20 pics are with the 35mm, just to give you an idea.

He has a 50mm, as well, but was very unhappy with it because it was not wide enough for general use. Someone recommended him that one without taking into account the crop factor of his camera. Those "nifty fifties" are great for Full-frame/FX cameras for general use, but are actually closer to portrait lenses on APSC.

I would suggest you go to a camera store or something and try it out real quick and see if you like it before buying.

Nikon d3200 body, and a 1.8 35mm nikkor lens.

Probably the best bang for your buck you can get. (imo) ~$350-ish total

-good platform to start learning on
-great picture quality-good all purpose focal length 35mm (50mm equivelent on the aps-c sensor)
-good low light performance with that fast prime lens


Feel free to ask any questions.

don’t get suitcase vinyl players they are BAD for your vinyls Recommend this

I got these a couple years ago from my grandparents who had a component setup that they rarely used, so they are old(ish) speakers that have hardly been used.

That gouge in the sub is something I need to get fixed, but otherwise, I really like listening to music on these.

My receiver is a Hitachi HTA-4000, as pictured here - note, this is not my exact receiver, but one posted to /r/vinyl a few weeks ago.

http://i.imgur.com/LsDI0MU.jpg

And my turntable, which I got about a year ago (first ever), is here.

http://www.amazon.com/Technica-AT-LP60-Automatic-Driven-Turntable/dp/B002GYTPAE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367422799&sr=8-1&keywords=turntable

It's a beginner's table for sure, and I will hope to upgrade in the coming months.

Thanks!

To be honest, buying a record player with built in speakers just isn't worth it. You're better off just sticking with mp3s at that point.

This would be my recommendation for an entry-level turntable. You'll need to get speakers separately though. On the bright side, it does have a built-in preamp so you don't need to buy that separately.